Eating and Drinking Guide 2012 by List Publishing Ltd

EDINBURGH & GLASGOW

EATING& DRINKING

OR ISED F V E R FULLY

3 1 / 2 1 20

Guide 19TH EDITION

900+ INDEPENDENT RESTAURANT REVIEWS 130+ NEW ENTRIES 160+ RELIABLE HITLIST CHOICES

In association with

£5.95

list.co.uk

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Authentic Indian Restaurant and Bar Welcome to Guchhi a contemporary Indian Seafood Restaurant in the heart of Leith, Edinburgh where contemporary meets traditional.

“THE BEST INDIAN TAPAS IN EDINBURGH”

Few can compete with the fine dining experience offered at Guchhi. The menu takes you on a culinary journey from the North to the South of India At Guchhi, we believe food is a celebration of life, as all good food should be. At this peaceful eatery, contentment is inevitable!

Open 12pm - 2am

Celebrate all Indian festivals at Guchhi

10 Commercial St, Edinburgh, Lothians, EH6 6JA 0131 555 5604 Every second month we have a Bhangra night - Guchhi Indian Seafood and Bar

www.guchhi.com www.guchhi.co.uk EDG12-Guchhi-FP 1 E&DG12-CoverDR.indd 3

Our chefs offer Indian cooking lessons 17/04/2012 00:18 21:55 18/04/2012

EDINBURGH & GLASGOW

EATING& DRINKING

Guide

CONTENTS C

EDINBURGH

GLASGOW

ARTS VENUES A

110

BAR B & PUBS

112

BISTROS B & BRASSERIES

123

C CAFES

131

CHINESE C

140

FAR F EAST

141

FISH F

143

F FRENCH

145

INDIAN

146

ITALIAN

152

MEXICAN

158

NORTH AMERICAN

159

ROUND THE WORLD

160

SCOTTISH

162

SPANISH

167

TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY

169

THAI

101

SEE FAR EAST

VEGETARIAN

104

171

(I(INCLUDING SANDWICH BARS)

FFILIPINO, FUSION, KOREAN, JAPANESE, MALAYSIAN, VIETNAMESE

AFRICAN, AMERICAS, EUROPEAN, GREEK, MEDITERRANEAN, MIDDLE EASTERN, MONGOLIAN

I INTRODUCING THE GUIDE HOW TO USE THE GUIDE H NEW FOR 2012 N EATING & DRINKING GUIDE AWARDS 2012 E HITLISTS 2012 H

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3 4 6 8 10

P PART I EDINBURGH P PART II GLASGOW P PART III OUTSIDE THE CITIES

12 106 172

M MAPS IINDEX

176 190

17/04/2012 23:53

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inspired by japanese ﬂavours, wagamama combine fresh ingredients and value for money. you’ll be spoilt for choice with a menu that offers delicious noodles and rice dishes, salads, freshly squeezed juices, asian beers and much more! wagamama also have a unique kids menu and offer take-out

wagamama.com

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E&DG12-IntroDRLM.indd 2

17/04/2012 21:58

CONTRIBUTORS EDITORS Donald Reid (Edinburgh), Jay Thundercliffe (Glasgow) ASSISTANT EDITOR Hannah Ewan COPY EDITORS Margaret Craik, Andrea Pearson, Allan Radcliffe, Claire Ritchie SECTION EDITORS & REVIEWERS: EDINBURGH Arts Venues Louise Donoghue, Anna Millar Bars & Pubs Doug Bond, Jenni Brooks, Hannah Ewan, Rob Fletcher, Sian Hickson, David Pollock, Keith Smith Bistros & Brasseries Frances Bentley, Margaret Craik, Jo Laidlaw, Alastair Martin, Yana Thandrayan Cafés Doug Bond, Hannah Ewan, Tara Hepburn, Sian Hickson, Caroline Pretty, Keith Smith Chinese Hilary Lloyd, Kat Turner Far East Dave Cummins, Kate Temple Fish Allan Radcliffe French Robin McKelvie, Courtney Peyton Indian Ian Hogg, Archie McDiarmid, Natalya Wells Italian Susan Smith, Justin Tilbury, Natalya Wells Mexican Tracey Reilly North American Karyn Millar, Steve Morton Round the World Claire Sawers, James Teideman Scottish John Cooke, Catriona Graham, Carol Main, Robin Wu Spanish Will Bain Thai Stan Blackley, Theresa Munoz Vegetarian Claire Ritchie GLASGOW Arts Venues Bronwen Livingstone Bars & Pubs Steven Dick, David Kirkwood, Lewis Renton, Kevin Scott Bistros & Brasseries Allan Brown, Eileen Heuston, Donald MacInnes, Andrea Mullaney, Andrea Pearson Cafés Teddy Craig, Steven Dick, Eileen Heuston, Andrea Pearson Chinese Rory McGinlay Far East Fiona Anderson, David Kirkwood Fish Malcolm McGonigle French Erica Goodey Indian Jennifer Armitage, Gary Duncan, Kevin Scott Italian Rachel Devine, Tiff Grifﬁn, Piers Hunt, Vicky Lee Mexican Carolyn McTaggart North American Erica Goodey Round the World Beth Allan, Emily Henderson, Carolyn McTaggart Scottish Beth Allan, Kirsty Bush, Martin Cross Spanish Carolyn McTaggart Takeaway & Delivery David Kirkwood, Andrea Pearson, Jay Thundercliffe Vegetarian Bronwen Livingstone, Malcolm McGonigle

INTRODUCTION For each of the last 19 years, The List’s Eating & Drinking Guide has set out to provide the most comprehensive, well-informed and reliably up-to-date round-up of the dining scene in Edinburgh and Glasgow. Our coverage touches on 900 venues across the two cities, the vast majority of them freshly written up following an incognito visit in the past few months by one of our 80-strong team of locally based reviewers – a number of whom have been part of our team for ten years or more. Their thorough information gathering, impartial feedback and carefully compiled write-ups allow us to chart where’s up, where’s down, where’s new and where’s changed. Our Hitlist recommendations of the most appealing current options in every style of dining are joined by a new feature for this year, Tiplists, where we offer suggestions and recommendations in a couple of dozen useful categories from good budget dining to best wine lists. Look out for the Tiplists on page 13 (for Edinburgh), page 107 (for Glasgow) and scattered through the guide. There are many other useful features both in this guide and to be found at the online version, where you can ﬁnd individual maps, proximity links, numerous search options, hotlinks and readers’ comments. There are some great places to eat in Edinburgh, Glasgow and their surrounding areas. We hope our guide helps you ﬁnd and enjoy them.

OUT OF TOWN AND OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Margaret Craik, Louise Donoghue, Catriona Graham, Lynda Hamilton, Ian Hogg, Sian Lower, Anna Millar, Steve Morton, Sandy Neil, Donald MacInnes, Robin McKelvie, Theresa Munoz, Andrea Pearson, Courtney Peyton, David Pollock, Tracey Reilly, Colin Renton, Claire Ritchie, Keith Smith, Christopher Trotter PUBLISHERS Robin Hodge, Simon Dessain ADMINISTRATION Amy Russell SALES & SPONSORSHIP Juliet Tweedie (Media Sales Manager), Sheri Friers (Sponsorship and Promotions Manager), Jude Moir, Nicky Carter, Lindsay Paul DIGITAL Simon Dessain (Digital Director), Andy Carmichael, Bruce Combe, Iain McCusker, Brendan Miles, Freya Cowan ACCOUNTS Georgette Renwick, Alex Johnston CIRCULATION & DISTRIBUTION Murray Robertson DESIGN Lucy Munro PRODUCTION Simon Armin (Production Manager) MAPS Digital data for street maps by Netmaps via JS Graphics john@ jsgraphics.co.uk

COVER Photo by Susie Lowe (susielowe.co.uk) with thanks to Spoon Bistro

Published by The List Ltd HEAD OFFICE: 14 High Street Edinburgh EH1 1TE Tel: 0131 550 3050 Fax: 0131 557 8500 list.co.uk email eat@list.co.uk Extensive efforts have been made to ensure the accuracy of the information in this publication; however, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for any errors it may contain. ©2012 The List Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior permission in writing of The List Ltd. ISSN: 1359-0693 This edition published April 2012. Printed by Acorn Web Offset Ltd, W. Yorkshire Maps © 2012 The List Ltd.

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HOW WE REVIEW

PHOTOGRAPHY Jannica Honey (jannicahoney.com), Stephen Robinson (motionandstills.com)

Many restaurant guides cover only venues that pay to be included. Others only if the venues take out advertising. Reviews and write-ups in such publications are often conducted by reviewers whose visit is prearranged and carefully orchestrated. The List Eating & Drinking Guide takes a different, independent approach. Restaurants covered by our guide are chosen on merit and reviewed incognito – to ensure our experience is that of any other diner. No entry in the guide pays to be included, none is obliged to advertise and none is given sight of its review before publication. Each restaurant is freshly reviewed each year by a different writer. Our reviewers are experienced and knowledgeable, but they’re not professional food inspectors. They’re chosen to reﬂect an informed local diner’s viewpoint, and they are encouraged to express an unbiased and even-handed opinion. No special favours are accorded to the companies that choose to buy display advertising space in the guide – they are treated exactly the same when it comes to their review visit, write-up and Hitlist selections.

Thanks

To all the reviewers, researchers, contributors, photographers, editors and members of The List team who have helped put this year’s guide together. A lot of effort goes on behind the scenes with IT, databases, websites, production, advertising sales, administration and accounts, and each part contributes to the success of the guide. Thanks also to our sponsors Birra Moretti and the many other supporters of the guide.

17/04/2012 21:58

HOW TO USE The Guide

Establishments are grouped ﬁrst by city, then by section (Cafés, Indian, Scottish etc), then listed alphabetically. The information contained in each entry is explained below. The most common abbreviations are also given in Key Boxes spread through the guide. Name of establishment: The coloured asterisk indicates a Hitlist recommendation – our pick of the best in each section.

Address of establishment: This includes street address, city district and postcode. If there are several branches in the same city, these are normally listed together in one entry.

Map reference: This refers to the restaurant’s location (map number followed by grid reference and point number) on one of the district maps to each city found on pages 176–189.

Telephone number for bookings or enquiries, and website. = Indicates membership of the Scotch Beef Club.

LC = The establishment participates in the List Card scheme. See list.co.uk for further information and up-to-date details on participating restaurants. Veg = This indicates that at least 25% of all main courses are vegetarian. Pre = Pre-theatre menu available. Post = Post-theatre menu available. Kids = Children are welcome: specifically, smaller portions are served and high chairs are available. Licensing restrictions (see note below) may still apply in the evening. Kids = Significant restrictions (indicated in brackets) are placed on children or no children are allowed at all. NOTE: all venues licensed to serve alcohol are required by law to specify when and where children are permitted while alcohol is being served. By and large children under 18 are not permitted after about 8pm but the specific times and age groups vary slightly between premises by an hour or two. Most restaurants permit older children to dine with adults. If in doubt you should call the venue in advance.

Wh = This denotes both wheelchair access and disabled toilets. Other restaurants may be able to accommodate disabled diners, but lack recognised facilities.

✱ The Glutton 55 Raresteak Street, East End, G30 1AA (Map 6: E4, 51) 0141 666 1111, glutton.co.uk Mon–Sat noon–3pm, 6–10pm. Closed Sun [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–3pm, 5pm–1am. Closed Sun]. LC; Veg; Pre/Post; BYOB (£1.50; Mon–Thu); HW £7.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £12 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner (dinner)

Deservedly popular, the Glutton has built up a loyal following over the past ten years. Set menus, decent choice, friendly, efficient service and BYOB – it’s all you really need in an informal restaurant. The staples are all here: seafood, red and white meat and vegetarian options. But what marks the Glutton out is the interesting use of sauces and accompaniments. So with your salmon, you might get couscous and an orange caramel butter sauce; a black pudding starter comes with toasted walnuts and a chilli dressing. + Unfailingly friendly service - Desserts a bit of an anti-climax

T/A = Takeaway food available. D = Home delivery available.

Opening hours: This indicates the days and hours when orders for food are taken. If an establishment has seasonal hours, they are noted. If a bar on the premises has different opening hours, these are given in square brackets. BYOB = You may bring your own bottle (wine or sometimes beer). Corkage charges or restrictions to the policy are indicated in brackets. Other restaurants may allow BYOB, but only by prior arrangement. Diners should phone to confirm policy. HW = The price given is for a bottle – or carafe, if indicated – of house wine. Meal prices: The price in bold type is the average price of a standard two-course evening meal for one from an à la carte menu, as calculated by our reviewers If only set-price evening meals are offered, this is indicated. Where applicable, a lunch price is also stated. In the first instance, we’ve quoted the cost of a fixed price twocourse lunch for one. Otherwise, we’ve given the average price of a twocourse lunch from an à la carte menu. The lunch price is given in bold if the venue does not serve food at night. Drinks are not included in price calculations.

The review: Our general description and independent assessment of the establishment’s ambience, décor and style of cuisine, including details about specific dishes, fixed-price meals and other relevant information.

Plus/minus points: These symbols indicate our reviewer’s assessment of the high point and low point of their visit or the restaurant in general.

OTHER USEFUL STUFF. . .

MAPS Covering all the principal eating and drinking zones in Edinburgh and Glasgow. PAGES 176–189

EXTRAS Table Talk interviews with local

restaurateurs, as well as Tiplists in various useful categories, are found through the guide.

ONLINE All the entries, plus more, with readers’ comments, handy searches and individual maps. list.co.uk/food-and-drink

4 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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NEW FOR 2012 EDINBURGH

Amarone

The Rutland Bar

ITALIAN

ArtCafe Morita

Ryan’s Cellar Restaurant

FAR EAST: JAPANESE

Artisan Roast

The Salisbury Arms

Spoilt for Choice

Steak

SCOTTISH

Strada

CAFES

Le Bistrot de l’Institut francais d’Ecosse

ROUND THE WORLD: AFRICAN

ITALIAN

La Barantine

BARS & PUBS

INDIAN

Asti

SCOTTISH

CAFES

Assam’s Café

BARS & PUBS

ITALIAN

The Suburban Pantry 64

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

FRENCH

Tanjore The Black Cat

INDIAN

BARS & PUBS

The Tattie Shop The Blue Goose Country Pub

CAFES: SANDWICH BARS

BARS & PUBS

Tea at 94 Bluerapa Thai

101

CAFES

THAI

10 to 10 In Delhi Bollywood: The Coffee Box

INDIAN

Timberyard Bon Papillon

SCOTTISH

ARTS VENUES

The Tourmalet Brass & Copper Coffee

CAFES

The Brass Monkey

BARS & PUBS

Whiski Rooms

Tupiniquim

ROUND THE WORLD: BRAZILIAN

BARS & PUBS

Union of Genius Café Cassis

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

Gurkha Café

ROUND THE WORLD: GLOBAL

The Mosque Kitchen

CAFES: SANDWICH BARS

INDIAN

Wagamama Café Portrait

ARTS VENUES

The Haven

CAFES

The Mulroy

FAR EAST: NOODLE & SUSHI BARS

FRENCH

Whiski Rooms Cardamom

TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY

Henri of Edinburgh

CAFES

Museum Brasserie

SCOTTISH

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

Yocoko Charleston Restaurant

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

Circus

The Institute

Italian Kitchen

Jamie’s Italian

FAR EAST: NOODLE & SUSHI BARS

Nawroz

ROUND THE WORLD: KURDISH

ITALIAN

ARTS VENUES

Nagoya Original Sushi Restaurant FAR EAST: JAPANESE

ARTS VENUES

CAFES

Dovecot Café by Stag Espresso

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

ROUND THE WORLD: MIDDLE EAST

Cuthberts Coffee & Bistro

The Honours

Ocean Spice

Farewell to . . .

• Always Sunday

TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY

ITALIAN

The Old Bell Restaurant SCOTTISH

• Amani Earthy Canonmills

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

EH15

89 49 84 50 90

CAFES: SANDWICH BARS

Khushi’s Koyama Kyloe Restaurant & Grill

Malvarosa

Mithas INDIAN

The Original Mosque Kitchen and Café 73 The Pastures

Purslane Red Squirrel

Ristorante Ferrari Ronde Bicycle Outﬁtters CAFES

• Koi • Ooud Kitchen • Peckham’s Underground • Redwood • Santini Ristorante

ITALIAN

• The Forest Café

• The Raconteur 29

BARS & PUBS

• Dionika

• Pani Solinska

SCOTTISH

• Club India

• Mai Thai 52

CAFES

SPANISH

Origano

INDIAN

SCOTTISH

FRENCH

Global Deli

FAR EAST: JAPANESE

SCOTTISH

La Garrigue Bistro

Kanpai

ITALIAN

INDIAN

CAFES

The Gardener’s Cottage

FAR EAST: JAPANESE

ROUND THE WORLD: GERMAN

The French Fancies

Kampung Ali Malaysian Delight

One Square BISTROS & BRASSERIES

FAR EAST: MALAYSIAN

CAFES

Frankfurter Eck

INDIAN

SCOTTISH

Elaine’s Cuppa Cake

Kama Sutra

• Seadogs • Tea Tree Tea

• The Vintners Rooms

6 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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These are the restaurants, cafés and bars that have opened in the 12 months before publication or are reviewed in this guide for the ﬁrst time. For all the latest openings and restaurant reviews through the year pick up a copy of the four-weekly List magazine or visit list.co.uk

GLASGOW Akbar’s

146

Saramago Café Bar

INDIAN

[Another] Piece

Cushion & Cake

134

Smoak

CAFES: SANDWICH BARS

The Art School

112

Southern Spice

131

Stewart’s Victorian Tea Rooms

141

Taste

141

Three Judges

152

The Upper House

113

Verona

132

Vespbar

145

Viva Brazil

132

Vroni’s Wine & Champagne Bar

114

Wau Café Creedence

144

FISH

135 135

Nachos

158

167

SCOTTISH

MEXICAN

115

Whole Foods Market Den Bar & Restaurant

117

Nardini’s

138

170

TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY

CAFES

132 Dukes Bar

CAFES

117

BARS & PUBS

The New Pakistani Café

151

INDIAN

138

Farewell to . . .

157

• Altura

123 Eat Café

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

135

CAFES

No 1 Chocolate Factory CAFES

115 La Famiglia

BARS & PUBS

154

ITALIAN

The Bungo Bar & Kitchen

158

ITALIAN

Wee Lochan Cushion & Cake

BARS & PUBS

Bruadar

169

TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY

CAFES

Browns Bar & Brasserie

Merchant Chippie

168

BARS & PUBS

143

FAR EAST: MALAYSIAN

Wee Cucina Cup

SPANISH

Brown Sugar

150

INDIAN

CAFES

BrewDog Glasgow

Masala Twist

132

CAFES

La Bodega Tapas Bar

122

BARS & PUBS

Bocadillo

162

ROUND THE WORLD: AMERICAS

CAFES

Blue Dog

122

BARS & PUBS

FRENCH

Black Poppy

158

ITALIAN

CAFES

Le Bistro Beaumartin

170

TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY

BARS & PUBS

Biscuit

121

BARS & PUBS

ITALIAN

The Ben Nevis

134

CAFES: SANDWICH BARS

FAR EAST: FUSION

Barolo Grill

139

CAFES

FAR EAST: MALAYSIAN

Bar Soba (Byres Road)

151

INDIAN

CAFES

Banana Leaf

134

CAFES: SANDWICH BARS

BARS & PUBS

The Balcony Café

171

VEGETARIAN

Pesto ITALIAN

• An Lochan 124

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

Fanelli’s

154

ITALIAN

Pinto Mexican Kitchen

159

MEXICAN

• L’Ariosto • Auntie M’s Cake Lounge

Café Circa

133

CAFES

Café Darna

147 133 163 161 153 134

136

Jackson’s Bar Kuta The Libertine

116

LUV Café

118

BARS & PUBS

Limelight Bar and Grill

Punjabi Charing Cross

151

Rasoi Indian Kitchen Rice and Noodle

118

Ristorante Teatro

151

Riverside Café Roots and Fruits

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

Rose and Grants

• The Blind Pig • Café Sejuiced • Grianach • iTapela • The Liquid Ship

111

• Michael Caines @ ABode • Mzouda

138

CAFES

127

• Bar MC and Grill

• Heavenly 157

ARTS VENUES

137

• Balthassar

• The Curry Leaf 170

ITALIAN

119

• Balbir’s Tifﬁn Rooms

• Brooklyn Bar & Grill

TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY

CAFES

116

121

INDIAN

BARS & PUBS

Church on the Hill

The Hyndland Café

The Pour House

INDIAN

BARS & PUBS

CAFES: SANDWICH BARS

Cathedral House Hotel

118

BARS & PUBS

ITALIAN

Carrot Top’s Café

Horton’s Bar & Kitchen

121

BARS & PUBS

CAFES

ROUND THE WORLD: AFRICAN

Carluccio’s

169

BARS & PUBS

SCOTTISH

The Calabash Restaurant

Gandolﬁ Fish to Go

The Pot Still BARS & PUBS

TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY

CAFES

Café Source Too

117

BARS & PUBS

INDIAN

Café D’Jaconelli

The Finnieston

• The Pakistani Café (Byres Road) • Piñata

139

CAFES

• Pintxo • Saladin’s Silk Road Diner

Crabby Macs Seafood Café FISH

143

Martha’s CAFES

137

The Roxy 171 BARS & PUBS

121

• Stateside Bar and Kitchen

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 7

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EATING&DRINKING

AWARDS 2012

The List’s annual Eating & Drinking Guide Awards are designed to highlight some of the best eating out experiences in Glasgow and Edinburgh. The List Readers’ Awards are voted for by users of the Eating & Drinking section of our website, list.co.uk, reﬂecting the loyalties and appreciation of restaurant regulars, as well as the fact that customer feedback is something we listen to as much as the restaurants themselves. Our Newcomer of the Year Awards are selected from restaurants opening in Edinburgh and Glasgow over the past 12 months. The winners are selected by our experienced team of reviewers and editors for the promise, innovation and integrity they bring to the local eating out scene. Our goal is to recognise not only the eyecatching and glamorous new arrivals but also to highlight more affordable places and, especially, those offering something important and original to the dining experience. Our judges’ Special Award recognises the outstanding contribution of an establishment, an individual or a family to the food and drink world in Scotland.

List Readers’ Award WINN

EDINBURGH

WINN

GLASGOW

FIRST CO COAST

TWO FA FAT LADIES AT THE BUTTERY

For nearly ten years, this friendly, engaged restaurant on Dalry Road has been making the connection between great food and the essence of neighbourhood dining. Scottish by instinct, global in outlook, it’s a place that’s fondly regarded by regular local diners as well as many others across the city both for delicious, everyday good-value food and its regular themed meals. ■ See page 36

Any of the city’s three popular Two Fats would be deserving of this award but it is the Buttery with its heritage claim as the city’s oldest restaurant that holds a special place with diners. Its ornate Victorian fixtures and fittings are perfectly complemented by the smart, formal service and a kitchen that sends out creative, beautifully presented food with skill and flair – all at reasonable prices. ■ See page 144

8 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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Newcomer of the year EDINBURGH

WINN

GLASGOW

WINN

MITHAS

MARTHA’S

FOR AN ADVENTURE IN UPMARKET INDIAN DINING

FOR REVOLUTIONISING LUNCH IN OUR FAST-FOOD WORLD

In opening Mithas – meaning sweetness – in the heart of Edinburgh’s Michelin Mile in Leith, the Mohammed brothers, sons of Edinburgh’s pioneer Indian restaurateur Kushi Mohammed, were positioning their ambitious new restaurant very carefully. They envisaged a place in Edinburgh not just for Indian fine-dining, with tasting menus, amuse-bouches, glamorous design and sophisticated service, but also an environment where the intricate and exciting arts of spicing food could push boundaries, open eyes and excite palates. ■ See page 72

The formidable mission of Matha’s to change the way we eat fast food seems much less daunting once their fresh, local and healthy food is tasted. Prepared by restaurant-standard chefs with a focus on nutritional qualities, wholesome ingredients and local suppliers, the food offers a balanced diet that cares about our health as well as what we eat. It’s all about moderation so bacon sandwiches and chocolate pots have a place among the exceptionally tasty healthier options. Add in a nicely designed interior by Graven Images and it all looks like a healthy recipe for success. ■ See page 137

WINN

KANPAI

LA FAMIGLIA

FOR PUTTING GREAT DESIGN INTO THE DINING EXPERIENCE

FOR CREATIVE FOOD MADE WITH PASSION AND PERSONALITY

In a deliberate move away from gimmickry and tired stereotypes, the team behind Kanpai, which opened in the summer of 2011 on Grindlay Street, engaged hot design consultants Four-by-Two to help create an environment that uses natural materials, clean lines, clever lighting and neutral colours to produce a beautiful contemporary Japanese restaurant interior that wouldn’t be out of place in the most stylish of Tokyo precincts. The success of the interior is matched by the food, expertly and elegantly assembled with colour, freshness and a sense of theatricality. ■ See page 59

Chef-proprietor Nico Simeone’s La Famiglia stands out like a beacon in an Italian scene crowded with faceless chains. This neighbourhood bistro’s exceptional food and service is grounded in the award-winning skill and passion of a young chef in his early 20s, as well as the team he has gathered around him, including, of course, some family members. With a focus on local seafood and in tune with the seasons, the modern Italian food is served up in a warm, genuinely friendly environment – the perfect antidote to the corporate dining elsewhere. ■ See page 154

Special A

WARD

HENDERSON’S

2012 marks a notable anniversary i Edinburgh’s dining history: Janet in He Henderson’s first city venture dedicated to ve vegetarian food opened 50 years ago. In 1962 Janet, along with husband Mac, an East L Lothian farmer, set up a ‘farm shop’ in the city centre, fo followed by a restaurant, the Salad Table, a year later. It was a bold and enterprising move, as vegetarian e eating and the concept of organic farming barely had a to toe-hold in Britain at the time – London’s first post-war v vegetarian restaurant, Cranks, had opened on Carnaby S Street just a year previously. Henderson’s provided a bedrock of veggie dining in the city that others have built on and developed, b its place in Edinburgh’s culinary landscape is but

unquestionable. Indeed, an estimated 90 per cent of regular customers aren’t committed vegetarians or vegans. Henderson’s didn’t respond to burgeoning competition with obscure ingredients or wacky cooking techniques, but by widening its appeal beyond sit down meals. A bistro, catering business and café now further follow its ‘eat better, live better’ ethos, as well as a bakery dedicated to a real bread movement that didn’t exist when it started out. Beyond food, a professional art gallery recognises a creative community that has always been loyal to Henderson’s, and harks back to Janet and Mac’s enthusiastic support of the arts. They were followed into business by their sons Nicholas, Peter and Oliver and daughter Catherine, and now the operation, as busy and popular as ever, is turning to the next generation with Oliver’s son Barrie taking a prominent role. The List Eating & Drinking Guide 9

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✱ EDINBURGHHitlists

THE LIST’S INDEPENDENT RECOMMENDATIONS OF THE BEST PLACES TO EAT IN EACH SECTION OF THE GUIDE ✱Nonna's

2012

✱ ITALIAN

Kitchen

Centotre Italian Kitchen Itri Locanda de Gusti Nonna's Kitchen

76 77 77 78 78

✱ MEXICAN Miro's Cantina Mexicana

✱ NORTH AMERICAN Bell's Diner Calistoga

80 81

✱ ROUND THE WORLD Frankfurter Eck Hanam's Turkish Kitchen

84 84 86

✱ SCOTTISH

ARTS VENUES Café Portrait The Fruitmarket Gallery Café The Scottish Café

16 17 18

20 22 27 27 30 31 31 32 32

Broughton Delicatessen Café Milk Earthy Market Café Edinburgh Larder Falko (Konditormeister) The Manna House Porto & Fi Valvona & Crolla Caffè Bar Word of Mouth

33 36 37 37 38 38

China Town Chop Chop Jasmine Chinese Restaurant Wing Sing Inn

45 45 48 48 49 51 52 54 54

59 59 60

Café Fish Ondine The Ship on the Shore

62 63 63

✱ FRENCH Café Marlayne L'escargot Bleu La Garrigue Restaurant Martin Wishart 21212

64 65 65 67 68

✱ INDIAN 55 55 56 58

✱ FAR EAST Bonsai Bar Bistro

Kampung Ali Malaysian Delight Kanpai Sushiya

✱ FISH

✱ CHINESE

✱ BISTROS & BRASSERIES Bia Bistrot First Coast Hadrian's Brasserie Hellers Kitchen Home Bistro The Honours

39 40 41 41

✱ CAFES

✱ BARS & PUBS The Bon Vivant The Caley Sample Room The Holyrood 9A Joseph Pearce’s The Saint Teuchters Landing Under the Stairs Underdogs The West Room

Monteiths Museum Brasserie The Shore Bar & Restaurant Spoon Café Bistro

Castle Terrace The Dining Room Forth Floor Restaurant Iglu The Kitchin Number One Restaurant Mark Greenaway Wildfire Restaurant and Grill

88 89 90 91 91 92 93 96

✱ SPANISH El Quijote Malvarosa

97 98

✱ TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY Los Cardos Silver Bowl Sonar Gao Spoilt for Choice

79 100 100 86

✱ THAI

Mezbaan South Indian Restaurant Mithas Mother India's Café Rivage The Spice Pavilion Tanjore Voujon

72 72 73 74 74 74 75

Dusit Leven's Port of Siam

102 102 102

✱ VEGETARIAN David Bann The Engine Shed

104 105

11 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH, EH10 4HN

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✱ GLASGOWHitlists

THE LIST’S INDEPENDENT RECOMMENDATIONS OF THE BEST PLACES ACES TO EAT IN EACH SECTION OF THE GUIDE ✱ ARTS VENUES Art Lover’s Café The Green Room The Hidden Lane Tea Room

110 110 110

✱ BARS & PUBS Bar Gandolfi The Bath Street Pony Bruadar The Finnieston Ivy Macsorley’s Nice ’n' Sleazy Slouch The Two Figs

112 113 115 117 118 120 120 121 122

✱ BISTROS & BRASSERIES Café Gandolfi Cafezique Cookie The Drake Fanny Trollopes Guy's Restaurant The Left Bank The Pelican Café Stravaign Café Bar

Café Salma

136 136 137 137 139

Wee Lochan

✱ CHINESE China Blue Ho Wong

140 140

✱ FAR EAST Kitsch Inn Nanakusa Opium Wau Café

142 142 142 143

✱ FISH 124 124 125 125 126 126 127 128 130

Gamba Gandolfi Fish Mussel Inn Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery

144 144 144 144

✱ FRENCH Brian Maule at Chardon d'Or La Vallée Blanche

146 146

✱ INDIAN

✱ CAFES An Clachan Biscuit Cup Eat Deli

Gusto & Relish Kember & Jones Martha’s Moyra Jane’s Sonny & Vito's

2012

131 132 135 135

Balbir's Balbir’s Saffron Lounge Café Salma The Den at Dining In with Mother India The Dhabba Masala Twist

147 147 147 148 148 150

India Southern Spice

Mother 150 151

✱ ITALIAN The Battlefield Rest La Brava Celino's

152 153 153

La Famiglia Fratelli Sarti The Italian Caffè La Parmigiana Ristorante Teatro

154 155 155 156 157

MEXICAN ✱ ME Bibi’s Cantina

158

✱ NORTH AMERICAN Ad Lib A

159

✱ ROUND THE WORLD Boteco do Brasil B C Café Cossachok El Elià Th The Greek Golden Kebab

160 160 161 161

✱ SCOTTISH Bis at One Bistro Dev Devonshire Gardens Ian Brown Food and Drink The Sisters Restaurants Stra Stravaigin The Ubiquitous Chip Wee Lochan

162 164 167 167 167 167

SPANISH ✱ SP Malaga Tapas Malag

168

TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY ✱ TA Bon A Appétit Euseb Eusebi Deli Merch Merchant Chippie Rice a and Noodle Stefa Stefano's Taco Mazama

169 169 169 170 170 170

VEGETARIAN ✱ VE Saram Saramago Stere Stereo

171 171

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490 H R E V O BURG , EDINAURANTS RESTAFES AND C ARS B

Edinburgh THE FESTIVAL CITY

TABLE Talk • Suzanne O’Connor • AC Muir • Mark Greenaway • Steven Spear

43 70 88 98

ne of the great things about Scotland’s capital is that its numerous lofty viewing spots don’t just show off the historic monuments and rugged architecture, but also the fact that there are fertile fields, heather-clad hills and expanses of sea not far beyond the city’s outer reaches. Places where food is found and, increasingly, identified when it makes it onto the city’s menus. As a dining city, Edinburgh bows only to London in the UK, not just in the ranks of high-end Michelin kudos, but in range, character and quality. Good eating has become part of the festival experience, the tourist visit and the residents’ routine. The Edinburgh section of this guide covers very nearly 500 places to eat out across the city, from converted police boxes in public parks to sumptious restaurants in five-star hotels. The number of these exploring the opportunities to use and cook with good quality local produce is undoubtedly on the rise, the best of them taking considerable strides towards giving local eating the credibility and distinctive identity it deserves. Yet it’s true that we’re also drawn to trotting the globe in search of attractive flavours and inspiring approaches to food. Edinburgh has a long history of providing Indian, French and Italian food, but these days you can find cafés, restaurants and takeaways serving Spanish, Thai, Malaysian,

Russian, Kurdish and Japanese food – to name just a handful of the options, many of which also bring a cultural connection in the form of art, music and traditional events linked to their country of origin. The dynamism of Edinburgh’s food and drink scene is increasingly spilling out from the boundaries of conventional restaurant spaces and familiar menus. The city’s various farmers’ and produce markets are among the best in Scotland, and there’s better street food than ever before, not just during the festival but throughout the year. Celebrations of food have become part of the capital’s calendar, including prominent events such as the Taste of Edinburgh festival, which brings restaurants from Edinburgh, Glasgow and elsewhere in Scotland to the Meadows in early July. At various times of year, chefs are recognising the seasonal rhythms of life, both in the food they’re cooking and the way they’re serving it – alfresco in summer, hearty in winter, colourfully at harvesttime and imaginatively in spring. Every year The List follows these trends, landmarks and promising beginnings. The Eating & Drinking Guide aims to bring you the greatest hits, the top tips and all you need to know about eating out in Edinburgh. Follow us in these pages, but also online and in the four-weekly List magazine, where you can catch up with the news and new openings right through the year.

12 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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TIPList

EDINBURGH’S

THE EATING & DRINKING GUIDE TEAM’S RECOMMENDATIONS Toast

FOR WEEKEND BRUNCH • Café Grande

FARMERS’ & FOOD

• Loch Fyne Restaurant 62 • Oloroso

• Palm Court

• Rhubarb

• The Tower

• The Witchery by the Castle

• Café Milk

• City Café

• The King’s Wark

• Loudon’s Café & Bakery 51

• Nonna’s Kitchen

• Metropole

• Origano

• Porto & Fi on the Mound 41

• Ristorante Ferrari

FOR LATE DINING

• Rocksalt Café Deli

• Suburban Pantry

• El Bar

• Toast

• Sweet Melindas

• Guchhi Indian Seafood 69

• Two Thin Laddies

• Toast

• Gusto

• Urban Angel

• Word of Mouth

• Kebab Mahal

• The Water of Leith Café Bistro

FOR A SENSE OF PLACE

• Petit Paris

• Purslane

FOR NEIGHBOURHOOD DINING • Al Dente

• Bijou

• Blonde

• Anteaques

• Steak

• Café Royal Oyster Bar

• Turkish Kitchen

• Canny Man’s

• Cucina

• The Witchery by the Castle

• Yocoko

• Zest

• Heller’s Kitchen

• Forth Floor Brasserie/ Restaurant 36/90

• Katie’s Diner

• Kanpai

MARKETS • CASTLE TERRACE In the castle’s shadow, Edinburgh’s largest market runs every Saturday from 9am to 2pm. Over 55 stallholders include Puddledub buffalo, Fletchers venison and Phantassie organic veg. • STOCKBRIDGE Every Sunday from 10am to 5pm, ‘Edinburgh’s other farmers’ market’ is a compact set of stalls by the Water of Leith. Au Gourmand bread, East Pier Smokehouse and Chocolate Tree are some of the best-known names. • PORTOBELLO Held in Brighton Park the ﬁrst Saturday of every month from 9.30am to 1.30pm. The emphasis is on locally produced, seasonal, often organic food. • OUT OF THE BLUE A market newcomer, with a great line-up including Burgh Bakes gourmet marshmallows and the Manna House’s artisan breads and pastries. Every second Saturday from 11am to 3pm. • PICARDY PLACE ROUNDABOUT A newer arrival with fresh and cooked food, bread and sweets. Held every Saturday from 9am to 2pm.

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FOR BYOB

love noodles love wagamama inspired by japanese flavours, wagamama combine fresh ingredients and value for money. it’s everyone’s favourite noodle bar!

wagamama.com

• Traverse Bar Café

• The Water of Leith Café Bistro

• A Room in . . .

• Absolute Thai

101

• Ann Purna

• Bijou

FOR OUTDOOR DINING

• Bluerapa

101

• A Room in Leith

• Hanam’s

• Angels With Bagpipes 88

• Khushi’s

• Bisque Bar & Brasserie 34

• Mithas

• Cafe Hub

• Nile Valley

• Café Modern One

• 9 Cellars Thali

• Circus

• Rivage

• The Gateway Restaurant 50

• Saffrani

• Oloroso

• Peter’s Yard

• Petit Paris

FOR BUDGET DINING • Amore Dogs

• The Apartment Bistro 33

45 16 83

• Porto & Fi on the Mound 41 • Tower Restaurant

• Frankfurter Eck

• Good Seed Bistro

FOR GROUPS & PARTIES

• Illegal Jack’s

• A Room in the Town

• Kampong Ah Lee

• Bar Roma

• Le Marché Français

• B’est

• Mother India’s Café

• Brazilian Sensation

• Origano

• Cruz Bar and Restaurant 23

• Papoli

• Howies at Waterloo

• Rice Terraces

• Khublai Khan

• Wagamama

FOR KIDS & FAMILIES join us at 2 locations around edinburgh: elements shopping centre, livingston castle terrace, edinburgh

• Toast

• Chop Chop

• Drill Hall Arts Café

• Earthy Market Café

• Joseph Pearce’s

• Loopy Lorna’s Tea House

• Mums Great Comfort Food

• Khushi’s

91 84 71

• Pancho Villa’s

• La P’tite Folie

• Ryan’s Cellar Restaurant 94 • Stac Polly Bistro

FOR PRE-THEATRE • Absolute Thai

101

• Bia Bistrot

• Bread Street Brasserie 34

• Spoon Café Bistro

• Café St Honoré

• Tanjore

• Calistoga

• Terrace Café

• Hewat’s Restaurant

14 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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â&#x20AC;˘ The Honours

â&#x20AC;˘ Earthy Market CafĂŠ

â&#x20AC;˘ Petit Paris

â&#x20AC;˘ Edinburgh Larder

â&#x20AC;˘ Pink Olive

â&#x20AC;˘ Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;escargot Bleu

â&#x20AC;˘ Rest. Mark Greenaway

â&#x20AC;˘ Iglu

â&#x20AC;˘ Ristorante Ferrari

â&#x20AC;˘ Zucca

â&#x20AC;˘ Kyloe Restaurant & Grill

â&#x20AC;˘ Ondine

â&#x20AC;˘ The Scottish CafĂŠ and Restaurant

FOR GOOD LUNCH DEALS

18/94

â&#x20AC;˘ Bonsai Bar Bistro

â&#x20AC;˘ Urban Angel

â&#x20AC;˘ CafĂŠ Fish

â&#x20AC;˘ Wedgwood the Restaurant

â&#x20AC;˘ Castle Terrace

â&#x20AC;˘ Celadon

101

â&#x20AC;˘ Creelers

â&#x20AC;˘ Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;escargot Blanc

FOR WINES BY THE GLASS â&#x20AC;˘ The Bon Vivant

20 35

â&#x20AC;˘ The Grain Store

â&#x20AC;˘ Browns Bar and Brasserie

â&#x20AC;˘ Home Bistro

â&#x20AC;˘ Centotre

â&#x20AC;˘ Howies

â&#x20AC;˘ Divino Enoteca

â&#x20AC;˘ Kalpna

â&#x20AC;˘ Ecco Vino

â&#x20AC;˘ Leith Lynx

â&#x20AC;˘ The Kitchin

â&#x20AC;˘ Wedgwood the Restaurant

â&#x20AC;˘ Malmaison Brasserie

â&#x20AC;˘ Oloroso

â&#x20AC;˘ Ondine

â&#x20AC;˘ Steak

FOR A ROMANTIC MEAL

! ! !

# # ! # ! # " #

! # " # "" #" " #! # " " ! # " ! #! " # ! ! # # ! # ! # #" #

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â&#x20AC;˘ Angels With Bagpipes 88 â&#x20AC;˘ Valvona & Crolla VinCaffĂ¨ 79 â&#x20AC;˘ CafĂŠ St HonorĂŠ

â&#x20AC;˘ Empires

â&#x20AC;˘ Fishers in the City

â&#x20AC;˘ La Garrigue

â&#x20AC;˘ The Grain Store

â&#x20AC;˘ Italian Kitchen

â&#x20AC;˘ Mithas

â&#x20AC;˘ Whighams Wine Cellars 32

FOR ITS WINE LIST â&#x20AC;˘ CafĂŠ St HonorĂŠ â&#x20AC;˘ Calistoga

â&#x20AC;˘ Monteiths â&#x20AC;˘ Port of Siam â&#x20AC;˘ Rhubarb

â&#x20AC;˘ Castle Terrace

â&#x20AC;˘ La Garrigue

â&#x20AC;˘ Henri of Edinburgh

â&#x20AC;˘ Hotel du Vin

â&#x20AC;˘ Iris

â&#x20AC;˘ The Mulroy

â&#x20AC;˘ The Outsider

â&#x20AC;˘ Rhubarb

â&#x20AC;˘ Ristorante Ferrari

â&#x20AC;˘ The Witchery by the Castle

102

Outside catering neednâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be bland and tasteless! We specialise in great quality, locally sourced and prepared food delivered directly to you. We cater for boardroom meetings to the office party and everything inbetween.

FOR ITS SOURCING POLICY â&#x20AC;˘ CafĂŠ St HonorĂŠ

â&#x20AC;˘ Stac Polly (Dublin Street) 95

â&#x20AC;˘ Bia Bistrot

33 88

â&#x20AC;˘ The Caley Sample Room 22

To order online visit www.honourscatering.co.uk or call Amanda on 0131 650 9400.

HONOURS CATERING Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Buildings House, Gate 2, West Mains Road, Edinburgh EH9 3JF T: 0131 650 9400 F: 0131 650 6720 E: info@honourscatering.co.uk www.honourscatering.co.uk

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ARTS VENUES

list.co.uk

Edinburgh heritageportfolio.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–2.30pm. [Coffee & cakes served: 10am–4.30pm]. Veg; HW £17; Kids; Wh; T/A. £11 (lunch)

ARTS VENUES As a cultural capital Edinburgh excels, with its art house cinemas, award-winning theatres and fantastic array of gallery spaces. A number of these have top-notch cafés, bars and bistros attached which both complement the venues and have much to offer in their own right. In many you’ll creative culinary options to the fore, whether it be twists on classic dishes, daily specials or freshly baked cakes. All the venues below boast their own unique charms, whether for a quick glass of wine before a show, a tasty snack before a movie or a long lunch after a morning mooching around fine works of art.

Café Modern Two (formerly Café Newton at the Dean Gallery) would be a fairly understated setting, with dark wood panellling and simple furnishings, if it weren’t for Eduardo Paolozzi’s impressive steel creation ‘Vulcan’ towering over everything in sight. In contrast to its sister operation across the road, this café offers table service and a more limited menu of soup, sandwiches (with meat, vegetarian and gluten-free options) and the odd special. If you are on the hunt for cake and coffee, the surroundings are a tranquil spot to reflect on the artworks on display and to tuck into rich Belgian chocolate brownies, tray bakes and a generous slice of the cake of the day. Although it’s slightly more tucked away than many of the city’s galleries and is largely frequented by gallery visitors, staff and regulars, be prepared to queue for a table in busy lunch periods (especially during the holidays) or to book ahead. + The work of Eduardo Paolozzi - Specials are snapped up very quickly

Reviewers: Louise Donoghue, Anna Millar

Bon Papillon

15 Howe Street, Stockbridge, EH3 6TE (Map 1: C4, 43) 0131 538 2505, bonpapillon.com | Mon–Sat 9am– 5.30pm; Sun 9am–5pm. Closed Tue. Veg; Kids; T/A. £6 (lunch)

It’s a tricky balancing act at Bon Papillon, but one its cheerful owners clearly relish. This café-cum-gallerycum-framers, run by artist and chef Ingrid Nilsson and Stuart Allan, has an immediately welcoming vibe. Situated in the New Town, local, fresh produce and inventive cakes, salads and savoury tarts are to the fore. A hot smoked salmon salad comes laden with greens, sundried and cherry tomatoes and olives, a rich garlicky French dressing only adding depth and flavour to the already flavoursome salmon. Meanwhile a savoury cheese scone adds a tasty carb kick on the side. Veggies can indulge in a tasty savoury tart or chow down on one of the light bite lunch options such as goats’ cheese on garlic toast while neighbourhood office workers can nip in for a pre-work bacon sarnie en route. The home-made cakes change daily, with

KEY LC = List Card participant. Veg = 25% of main courses are vegetarian. Pre = Pre-theatre menu. Post = Post-theatre menu. BYOB = Bring your own bottle (corkage charge in brackets). HW = House wine cost per bottle. Kids = Children’s portions served and other facilities available. Wh = Wheelchair access and disabled toilet. T/A = Takeaway food. D = Delivery. Price in bold = Average cost of a two-course evening meal for one. The price of a set lunch is shown; otherwise we show the average cost of a two-course lunch for one. For full explanations see page 4.

✱

Café Portrait

Scottish National Portrait Gallery, 1 Queen Street, New Town, EH2 1JD (Map 1: E4, 98) 0131 624 6200, heritageportfolio.co.uk | Fri–Wed 10am– 4.30pm; Thu 10am–6.30pm. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A. £9 (lunch)

Café Modern One: sweet treats in the original Gallery of Modern Art

Allan experimenting with such sugary treats as a chocolate and beetroot cake or a jam and marmalade sponge. The friendly, attentive service also marks this relative newbie out as one to watch. + A small enterprise with big ideas - Slightly off the beaten track

Cafe Hub

Castlehill, Royal Mile, Old Town, EH1 2NE (Map 2: B3, 29) See Cafés

Café Lucia

Edinburgh Festival Theatre, 13/29 Nicolson Street, Old Town, EH8 9FT (Map 2: D4, 86) 0131 667 2765, festivaltheatre.org.uk | Mon–Sat 10.30am–4.30pm. Closed Sun. [Bar open for performances.] Veg; HW £18; Kids; Wh. £10 (lunch)

Situated on the bright, airy ground floor of Edinburgh’s popular Festival Theatre, Café Lucia is a decent pit stop for those seeking some respite from Southside shopping, a break from the office on their lunch hour, or a stop-off for local students on the way to classes. Lighter food options include soup and a sandwich or a coffee and tray bake, while those looking to loiter longer can indulge in larger portions of everything from scampi and chips and fish pie to omelette and chicken escalope. Service is unobtrusive and there’s no suggestion of hurrying folk on, with many choosing to take a seat by the floor to ceiling windows for a spot of people watching. Young families happily co-exist with a more elderly clientele enjoying a cup of tea waiting for a friend or an afternoon matinee. Desserts are largely forgettable, though perfectly adequate with ample to choose from, as well as daily specials. + Good for people watching

- Forgettable desserts

Café Modern One

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art One, 75 Belford Road, West End, EH4 3DR (Map 4: A1, off) 0131 332 8600, heritageportfolio.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm; Sat noon–3pm; Sun noon–2.30pm. [Coffee & cakes: Mon–Fri 9am–4.30pm; Sat/Sun: 10am–4.30pm]. Veg; HW £16; Kids; Wh; T/A. £9 (lunch)

Located on the lower floor of the Gallery of Modern Art One, Café Modern One is canteen style dining that attracts regulars meeting for lunch (with or without taking in the art) and gallery visitors grabbing a quick bite. The menu offers, baked potatoes, sandwich specials (meat and vegetarian), hot specials, salads, gluten free option and sweet treats- all produced in their kitchens. The inventive salads combine fresh and seasonal flavours such as roast aubergine, cherry tomatoes, puy lentils, spinach, roast fennel and radish or broccoli, orzo pasta, spinach and roast courgette. There are a couple of attractive touches such as a chalk board listing what’s in season to eat (with chefs who strive to incorporate seasonal ingredients as much as possible into specials and salads) and the recipe of the month for diners to take away and have a go at cooking at home. The café’s popularity can make it difficult to get a seat, but this is a quick moving operation with staff turning round tables very quickly to accommodate the lunchtime rush. + Enjoy dining in the stunning grounds in summer - Be prepared to share a table

Café Modern Two

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art Two, 73 Belford Road, West End, EH4 3DS (Map 4: A1, off) 0131 624 6273,

When Edinburgh’s Portrait Gallery opened with new-found swagger and style, at the end of 2011, art fans had plenty to get their teeth into: a stunning, multi-million pound facelift with glorious works by Scottish greats like Henry Raeburn and contemporary, colourful, glossy portraits of familiar faces like Tom Kitchin, David Tennant and SuBo, suggesting a venture firing on all cylinders. Foodies, too, had ample reason to rejoice, courtesy of the gallery’s fresh, bright and bustling new café area. Where once it felt dark and dingy, now high windows and airy, slick décor make it feel welcoming and inclusive. Staples include Parma ham and mozzarella-laden ciabatta, and delicious home-made soups (the parsnip and rosemary is a must), while daily specials offer interesting twists on classic dishes: a macaroni cheese, given depth and kick by a smoked pancetta and leek infusion. The wide array of cakes doesn’t disappoint, a lemon drizzle cake, offering suitable tang and moisture. It’s licensed, too, should you fancy a bottle of locally brewed beer or glass of crisp chardonnay. + Two for the price of one: food and art - Gets very busy at lunchtime

City Art Centre Café

City Art Centre, 1 Market Street, Old Town, EH1 1DE (Map 2: D2, 7) 0131 226 4965, edinburghmuseums.org.uk | Mon– Fri 8.30am–4.30pm; Sat 10am–4.30pm; Sun noon–4.30pm. Veg; Wh; T/A. £9.50 (lunch)

Having functioned in a few temporary guises since the main building’s refurbishment, the City Arts Centre Café is due to re-open in April 2012 following a refit of its own, complete with revamped menu and the welcome addition of new hot and cold counters. Early birds will be able to tuck into a variety of breakfast options, while hot drinks and tempting home-bakes will satisfy gallery visitors looking for light nourishment throughout the day. At lunchtime, expect lots of unfussy, but great-tasting dishes; fresh salads, platters and savoury tarts along with soups, baked potatoes and filled rolls, plus a couple of hot daily specials. Baking will

16 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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ARTS VENUES

In association with

be carried out on site, and an in-house vegetarian chef means that veggies will likely be well-catered for across the board too. The spruced-up space should be in good hands, operated by the same team that currently runs similar ventures at the Fruitmarket Gallery and Scottish Storytelling Centre. It’s their popular café at St Giles Cathedral which this incarnation will probably most resemble though. [Not yet open at time of going to press]

Dovecot Café by Stag Espresso

Dovecot Studios, 10 Infirmary Street, Old Town, EH1 1LT (Map 2: E4, 81) , StagEspresso.com | Mon–Fri 8am–5pm; Sat 10am–5pm. Closed Sun. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A. £6 (lunch)

Nestled at the bottom of Infirmary Street, Dovecot Studios has established itself as an innovative drop-in for those fond of tapestry and contemporary crafts – and last year it got better still with the arrival of Richard Conway’s bright, airy daytime café. A former Victorian bathhouse, the Dovecot building is the ideal spot for Conway’s relaxed approach to eating, with a simple menu of soups, sandwiches and salads, as well as an array of freshly baked cakes, from simple scones to cream-laden gateaux, on offer. The pastrami and highland brie sandwich arrives on deliciously bouncy, crisp-edged bloomer bread, with a spiced tomato and mixed bean soup adding a subtle chilli kick to proceedings. A semi-sweet chocolate tart boasts some perfectly turned-out short crust pastry and is rounded off nicely with a cup of Conway’s finest coffee. Service is top notch and there’s a mixed clientele, from those nipping in for a quick lunchtime snack, to the students nursing a coffee or croissant before class. + Airy, relaxed space - Slightly stingy sandwich fillings

Drill Hall Arts Café

34 Dalmeny Street, Leith, EH6 8RG (Map 1: H2, off) 0131 555 7100, outoftheblue. org.uk | Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. Closed Sun. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A. £7 (lunch)

This café caters for a varied clientele of Out of the Blue Drill Hall resident artists, members of the Leith community and attendees of flea markets, vintage fairs, yoga or pilates classes not to mention their Bruncheon! event. The ethos here is very much about supporting the community – this extends to sourcing ingredients from neighbouring businesses and continuing an initiative to train and employ young people looking for opportunities in the hospitality industry. The daily menu is designed to offer affordable soups, sandwiches and specials such as marinated chicken kebabs, smoked fish kedgeree or vegetable curry. Go for sizable toasted bagels (from popular local bakery the Manna House) with fillings such as smoked salmon and cream cheese or pastrami, jarlsberg and mustard mayo. The cakes are home baked and you’re spoilt for choice with a light and fluffy Victoria sponge, a sweet bakewell slice and a range of muffins. With a friendly and relaxed atmosphere, the Drill Hall Arts Café is a family friendly space in which to escape the bustle of the city. + Tasty food and friendly staff - Difficult to find a table at weekend events

Filmhouse Café Bar

88 Lothian Road, West End, EH3 9BZ (Map 4: D3, 45) 0131 229 5932, filmhousecinema.com | Mon–Sun 10am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 10am–11.30pm; Fri/Sat 10am–12.30am;

✱ HITLIST ARTS VENUES ✱ The Fruitmarket Gallery Café Fresh, seasonal and delicious food combinations along with scrumptious cakes in relaxing surroundings. An Edinburgh café and art destination not to be missed. ✱ Portrait Café Back with a bang following the Portrait Gallery’s multi-million pound facelift, this bright, airy space offers the perfect pit stop for those seeking a culinary hit as part of their cultural injection. ✱ Scottish Café & Restaurant More than just an arts venue café, really, with a proper restaurant lunch also available, and pride of place given to a properly impressive array of local suppliers. Sun 12.30–11.30pm.] LC; Veg; HW £12.75; Kids; Wh. £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

Any self-respecting cinema-goer knows that no trip to the Filmhouse would be complete without a pre-movie bowl of nachos from their bustling café-bar. A haven for lovers of independent and arthouse film, the Filmhouse is awash with cinéastes nursing one of the bar’s 11 draught beers, five real ales or 12 wines by the glass, or tucking into a snack before heading into the latest must-see flick. Vegetarians are in for a treat, with tasty falafels and veggie curries and lasagnes prominent on the menu. Meateaters can enjoy chicken curries, beef chilli nachos and daily specials such as a smooth, creamy chorizo and Parmesan risotto, or a slightly forgettable and under-seasoned lamb bhuna. An array of traybakes and gateaux ensure there’s plenty for the more sweet of tooth. Swift, friendly service ensures you don’t miss the trailers, while lounging locals and relaxing surroundings create a nice home-away-from-home vibe. + Cheese-laden nachos - Can get busy at the weekends

The Fruitmarket Gallery Café

✱

Fruitmarket Gallery, 45 Market Street, Old Town, EH1 1DF (Map 2: D2, 6) 0131 226 1843, fruitmarket.co.uk | Mon–Sat 11.30am–4pm; Sun noon–4pm. [Coffee & cakes: Mon–Sat 11am–5.30pm; Sun noon–4.30pm]. Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. *£11.50 (lunch)

The Fruitmarket Gallery is well respected for its cutting edge contemporary art exhibitions, its specialist bookshop crammed full of artist publications and a café that is well established on the Edinburgh food scene. Located at the back of Waverley station, the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly with a large window from which to watch the world go by as you tuck into some delicious The List Eating & Drinking Guide 17

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Edinburgh dishes. The menu changes with each exhibition to include seasonal produce in their salads, platters, sandwiches and specials. Deli-filled rolls are offered on a choice of breads, with generous fillings that include bbq sticky pork, chicken and chorizo or falafels. Stand out dishes include the mouthwatering warm Moroccan lamb and barley salad or, for vegetarians, spiced nut and dill kofta on herb quinoa. Cakes are a must on every visit and there’s an array of temptations including a tangy (glutenfree) lemon and polenta cake, tray bakes, home-made slices, and there ‘s always much ado about the Fruitmarket’s little rhubarb tarts, served with crème fraiche and stem ginger. The Fruitmarket Café continues to serve an inventive menu and deliver high quality food to the people of Edinburgh. + A menu that leaves you spoilt for choice - Some dishes get snapped up quickly

The Institute

14 Roseneath Street, Southside, EH9 1JH (Map 3: E3, 70) 0131 229 1338, institutegallery.com | Mon–Sat 10am– 5.30pm; Sun noon–5pm.

The Institute is very much a oneman band, and the newest addition to Edinburgh’s art venues. Photographer and owner Gavin Evans has combined a gallery of contemporary art with an assortment of imported teas to sip while contemplating the surroundings. Located in the heart of Marchmont the venue attracts students and locals popping in for a sandwich during the week or a special event at the weekend. The choice is limited but what is on offer is well executed. Highlights include Cubano, a tasty Cuban sandwich of grilled petit pain with roast and smoked ham, Jarlsberg cheese, gherkin, mayo and mustard or filled croissants. The tea menu is certainly not limited, with over 20 single estate varieties to choose from. Currently only open during the day, there are plans to license the premises, renovate the interior and showcase new technologies at evening events. Watch this space. + Teas galore - Could do with a couple more cakes for the teas

Loopy Lorna’s Tea House @ Churchill Theatre

Churchill Theatre, 33a Morningside Road, Southside, EH10 4DR (Map 3: A5, 33) 0131 447 3042, loopylornas.com | Mon–Sun 9am–4.30pm. [Bar open for shows only: before performance, during interval and occasionally afterwards.] HW £15-18; Kids; Wh; T/A. £15 (lunch)

Loopy Lorna’s Tea House is a popular Morningside haunt, with the only branch now located in the Churchill Theatre. Tea and cake is definitely the overriding theme with teapots everywhere, a special tea menu compiled by a master tea blender, quirky tea cosies warming the pots and a large counter laden with treats. The menu lists a range of breakfast choices, soup and sandwich lunches and a kid’s menu for the little ones. Afternoon tea is a popular choice with a selection of ‘dainty’ sandwiches (smoked salmon, gammon or egg mayonnaise), scones and home-baked cakes and tray bakes. If you don’t have the appetite for the whole shebang, the freshly baked large ‘loopy’ scone is a highlight, served with tasty home-made strawberry jam and, for pure indulgence, a large dollop of Cornish clotted cream. There is lots of room to cater for the regular clientele of mum and toddlers groups, theatre goers and local workers. At weekends expect to be greeted by kids parties, baby showers and hen parties indulging in cake, cake

and more cake. + Staff and facilities that welcome children and families - Unimaginative sandwich selection

Museum Brasserie

National Museum of Scotland, Chambers Street, Old Town, EH1 1JF See Bistros & Brasseries

✱ The Scottish Café

National Gallery of Scotland, The Mound, City Centre, EH2 2EL (Map 2: B2, 5) 0131 226 6524, thescottishcafeandrestaurant.com | Mon–Wed & Fri/Sat 9am–5pm; Thu 9am–7pm; Sun 10am–5pm. Veg; HW £15.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £10 (lunch)

Run by the acclaimed team from Centotre – Victor and Carina Contini – the Scottish Café and Restaurant has been a stylish addition to arts venues in Edinburgh since 2009. There is a Garden Café within the gallery reception, but the main operation is a large two-tiered space with hungrier restaurant guests seated in the raised restaurant area (for more on the restaurant menu, see separate entry in Scottish) and the café below serving lighter options. Their motto is ‘fresh, simple and Scottish’ and this is taken very seriously with the engagement of local suppliers and a menu that showcases their produce. Tuck into soups, sandwiches, salads and elaborate platters for two including fish and chip pails, haggis balls with whisky sauce and home-made pâtés. Traditional hot Aberdonian butteries are a speciality, topped with Clava brie with spinach and red onion marmalade or Loch Arthur cheddar with their own Borders boiled ham. The cake display is enticing and full of freshly baked sweet treats. The operation is fairly slick but there can be a huge variation in the quality of service in busier periods. + Good food with a beautiful view - Book ahead or be prepared to wait

The Stand

5 York Place, New Town, EH1 3EB (Map 1: E4, 117) 0131 558 7272, thestand. co.uk | Thu 7.30–8.30pm; Fri/Sat 7–8.30pm; Sun 12.30–2.30pm. [No food Mon–Wed]. [Bar open: Sun–Thu 7.30pm– 1am; Fri/Sat 7pm–1am.] Veg; HW £13.95; Kids (except Sun lunch). £7 (one course lunch) / £7 (one course dinner)

Having spent more than 15 years demonstrating that comedians are for life, not just the festival, this subterranean venue stakes a strong claim for entry to the pantheon of ‘Edinburgh Institutions’. Inside, the mish-mash of colours and murals aren’t much to look at, but it is a comfortable, intimate space, the low roof and equally low lighting contributing to the atmosphere, managing to retain a real sense the independent spirit on which it was founded. As well as serving up comedy seven nights a week, they also do food, so if you’re left in stitches at least it’s not on an empty stomach. The menu’s straightforward, sticking to familiar pub grub territory, but the quality is surprisingly good. Beef chilli is made with slow-roasted shoulder meat and has a real kick, while the fist-sized burger is tender and juicy (make sure you order the wedges to accompany it for an additional £1). Considering they’ve got a captive audience, bar prices are reasonable, with a decent selection of bottled beers too. Just make sure to arrive early if you want to secure a table. + Finding a complete unknown who makes you cry with laughter - Small, low tables make dining a bit awkward

The Storytelling Café

Scottish Storytelling Centre, 43 High Street, Old Town, EH1 1SR (Map 2: E3, 100) 0131 556 1229, scottishstorytellingcentre.co.uk | Mon– Sat 10am–6pm. Jul–Sep: Sun noon–5pm. Oct–Jun: Closed Sun. Veg; HW £13.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £10 (lunch)

Nestled inside the Scottish Storytelling Centre, halfway along the Royal Mile, the Storytelling Café is a light and spacious, child-friendly venue offering breakfast, lunch, coffee, and cake. Their home-style cooking caters for a mixed clientele of workers, tourists visiting the historic John Knox house and families attending live storytelling events and the various festivals that the centre hosts. Although the prices reflect the ‘tourist trail’ location, the menu is packed full of delicious flavour combinations to transform wraps, rolls and open sandwiches. Seasonal produce from local suppliers contributes to a good choice of options for vegetarians such as the succulent herby mushroom melt, or slow-roasted aromatic lamb for meateaters. The cake selection is particularly tempting and impressive: choose from a slice of the cake of the day (raspberry and almond torte had numerous diners mumbling approval) or go for fruit tarts, gluten free florentines, biscuits and tray bakes. Wash it down with a selection of tea or their own gourmet coffee. + Savour freshly prepared home cooking - Expensive bacon rolls for breakfast

Terrace Café

Royal Botanic Garden, Inverleith Row, Inverleith, EH3 5LR See Cafés

Tower Restaurant

National Museum of Scotland, Chambers Street, Old Town, EH1 1JF See Scottish

Traverse Bar Café

10 Cambridge Street, West End, EH1 2ED (Map 4: D3, 41) 0131 228 5383, traverse.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8.30am–8pm; Sat 10.30am–8pm. No food Sun. [Bar open: Mon–Wed 8.30am–midnight; Thu– Sat 8.30am–1am; Sun 1.30pm–midnight.] Veg; HW £11; Kids; Wh; T/A. £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

As one of Edinburgh’s most popular art hubs, the Traverse Theatre has long been a firm favourite – and the attached café-bar plays its part in that enduring appeal. Families are made welcome day and night, thanks to the café being kid-friendly until 9pm, while elsewhere writers, creatives, local office workers and theatre-goers co-habit in the minimalist chilled out dining and bar space. While some simply catch up over a drink or sip coffee and log on to the free wifi, there’s a decent selection to graze from. Nachos topped with chilli, salsa or bean are popular shouts for those rushing into a theatre show, while the recently expanded main menu – including Mediterraneanstyle chicken casserole, rib-eye steak, haddock and chips and vegetable lasagne – ensure there’s ample for those looking for a hearty feed. Those seeking a lighter snack can opt for some flavoursome crispy vegetable pancakes with sweet chilli dips or a gooey Somerset brie and beetroot tart. Dessert options are narrower but a sticky toffee pudding or apple pie tick the sweet-toothed box. + Great pre-theatre nachos - Noisy around theatre going-in and out time

Zucca

15–17 Grindlay Street, West End, EH3 9AX See Italian

BARS & PUBS

The capital’s nightlife scene has been hit by club closures recently but pub culture in the city is still maintaining strong momentum. Some claim that Edinburgh has more bars per square mile than any other city in Europe, and – while that might be down to the relative size of the city centre as much as the proliferation of bars – there’s certainly strength in diversity here. From the Old Town’s characterful, story-strewn old man’s boozers to the sleek preclub affairs of the New Town and George Street area and the wealth of locals with a strong individual sense springing up on Leith Walk and down by the Shore, The List’s favourite bars and pubs have been chosen by our writers according to the areas they know best. We drink there, and we think you should too. Reviewers: Doug Bond, Hannah Ewan, Rob Fletcher, Tara Hepburn, Siân Hickson, David Pollock, Keith Smith

The Abbotsford

3 Rose Street, New Town, EH2 2PR (Map 1: E5, 104) 0131 225 5276, theabbotsford. com | Mon–Sat noon–10pm; Sun 12.30–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11am–11pm; Fri/Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30–11pm.] Veg; HW £12.95. £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The Grand Old Man of Rose Street’s bustling pub scene, with its island bar, wood-panelled walls and intricate ceiling, the Abbotsford remains agreeably unsullied by the latest fads and trends – as do most of its patrons. Attracting the sort of crowd who appreciate a good pint, but can have one without waxing lyrical about the minutiae of brewerania, this is the perfect spot for sampling from an impressive range of draught beer. It also offers a decent menu with a number of innovative offerings – with the likes of grilled sea bass citron and venison and quail scotch eggs both well worth a try. However, as is only appropriate, the pub classics – pies, burgers and fish ‘n’ chips – are probably the best bets in this most classic of pubs. + Spotting Ian Rankin sharing a pint and a laugh with a latter-day pirate - Off-piste food choices can be hit and miss

Above Abbotsford

3–5 Rose Street, New Town, EH2 2PR See Scottish

Amicus Apple

17 Frederick Street, New Town, EH2 2EY (Map 1: C6, 70) 0131 226 6055, amicusapple.com | Mon–Sat noon–9pm; Sun noon–5pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–1am.] Veg; HW £13.95; Kids (under 5 or after 6pm). £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Although you may expect to pay a premium for food at a cocktail bar betwixt George Street and the Castle, Amicus Apple manages to buck the trend. On weekdays it offers 2-for-1 meals for those who book online and with the recent introduction of a £5 lunch menu, the Apple is clearly well adjusted to the times. Yet, despite the reasonable prices, it still manages to produce a selection that mixes well-turned-out pub favourites, such as sausage and mash,

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Edinburgh with a few more gastro offerings – and the stuffed chicken breast, served on a butternut, bean and pine nut salad, would leave even the natives of Kiev clamouring for more. Meanwhile the cocktail list manages to hold up its end of the bargain, with the Snap Frost Martini particularly recommended, while the Pear and Jalapeno Margarita might be the answer for those with cojones to spare. + Excellent outside seating - Décor not overly inspirational

The Auld Hoose

23–25 St Leonards Street, Southside, EH8 9QN (Map 3: H1, 43) 0131 668 2934, theauldhoose.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–9.30pm; Sun 12.30–8pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–12.45am; Sun 12.30pm–12.45am.] Veg; HW £13; Kids. £11.50 (lunch) / £11.50 (dinner)

Standing proud on the Pleasance for nearly a century and a half, the Auld Hoose is viewed with affection by its locals and habitués as an unfussy establishment with an emphasis on good beer and hearty pub grub. The bar is well-stocked with an interesting selection of quality ales from brewers of the ilk of Wychwood, Cairngorm and Brew Dog, and an extensive house selection of single malts which the friendly and laid-back staff are happy to advise on. Hospitality is a strength of the establishment; the other is the frankly startling amount of bang for your buck on the food front. The portions are enormous: enough to challenge the capacity of the most famished trencherman. A Vesuvius of nachos with all the trimmings (they have a solid claim to sell the biggest in Edinburgh) is more than enough for a group of four and the steak and ale pie with chips is a fine example of decent filling food at a reasonable cost. Easylistening lovers be cautioned: the food comes with the kind of soundtrack you might expect from a rock pub which in spite of its classical veneer and thankfully untrammeled original features, the Auld Hoose undoubtedly remains.

+ Amiable staff and generous portions - Thrash metal is not quite the thing for

Sunday afternoons

Avoca Bar & Grill

4–6 Dean Street, Stockbridge, EH4 1LW (Map 1: A3, 19) 0131 315 3311, theorchardbar.co.uk/avoca | Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 6–8.30pm; Fri–Sun noon–7.15pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11am–midnight; Fri/Sat 11am–1am; Sun noon–midnight.] LC; Veg; HW £12.95; Kids (under 5). £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Set into a relatively snug pair of rooms on a side street off Stockbridge’s main drag, this modern but lived-in bar feels like a bit of a nook, a welcome discovery when you find it. It’s a proper local for the diverse clientele of Stockbridge and particularly those with an interest in Six Nations rugby or big football tournaments, which are shown religiously on the big screen, while the food is a step up from regular pub ballast. Starters of tempura prawns or black pudding and smoked bacon salad, and mains including smoked haddock fillet on mash or a home-made pie of the day are made with efficiency, although the food isn’t quite as central to Avoca’s style as its sister venue the Orchard. + A welcoming and lively pub for sports fans - The seats at the back are a little close to the toilet doors

The Balmoral Bar

Balmoral Hotel, 1 Princes Street, New Town, EH2 2EQ (Map 2: D2, 3) 0131 556 2414, thebalmoralhotel.com | Mon– Sun 1pm–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 1pm–1am.] Veg; HW £24; Kids; Wh. £18.50 (lunch) / £18.50 (dinner)

There is little doubt that this heavyweight hotel is a true Edinburgh icon, and yet, while most of the capital’s citizens know that the timepiece in the famous clocktower is set two minutes fast, few may realise that you don’t have to be a guest of Sir Rocco to venture in for

a drink. Some might also be surprised that, despite the air of grandeur, it is also a remarkably welcoming place. Food, which comes from the kitchen of Hadrian’s Brasserie, is Scottish and sound. But the mixed drinks are the major attraction here – of particular note is the five-course cocktail tasting menu which makes for a true liquid supper or lunch. From the amuse-bouche to the rather saccharine grand finale, this is a chance to sample Edwardian indulgence in appropriately decadent surroundings. + Feel like a high roller for an hour or two - Paying for the privilege

to keep in mind if you’re trailing hungry weans round the castle and have to eat, fast. Bar 50 is the opposite of fancy, but if genuine, upbeat and relaxed floats your boat, it’s worth seeking out. + Friendly, buzzy, international atmosphere - Trying to find it

Bar 50

Bar Missoni’s website promises the ‘ultimate fashionista adventure playground’. Supermodels aside, the venue is deliberately stylish without being overwhelmed by the polarising multiplex of pattern for which the brand is renowned. The vibe is based on passeggiata, the Italian tradition of evening strolls during which people flirt, gossip, observe and are observed. With a Missoni modern-classic cocktail in hand, you might just feel like passeggiating. The Basilito, a basil and grape-twisted mojito, is a fruitily sophisticated deep purple, and the Gallarate (a play on the Manhattan) showcases top quality ingredients like Carpano Antica formula, a red vermouth made to an original 1786 recipe. Food is of varying value: home-made tagliatelle with pork ragu is delicious but a small portion for the price, yet the club sandwich is enormous, excellent and eminently reasonable. + Feeling like in superstar in the discoglitz loos - A small dish of hummus, pitta and crudités for £7.50. Nice hummus, but still.

50 Blackfriars Street, Old Town, EH1 1NE (Map 2: D3, 94) 0131 524 3252, smartcityhostels.com | Mon–Sun 8am–10pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu 9am– midnight; Fri/Sat 9am–1am.] Veg; HW £12.95; Wh; T/A. £8 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

Set inside a shiny modern hostel and marketing itself squarely at its backpacker residents and the students from the halls next door, Bar 50 is the kind of place it’s easy to walk past. While not exactly a hidden gem, its location and focus on cheap, cheerful, substantial plates in a pleasant atmosphere mean it’s worth a look. They aim to fill tummies for a reasonable price – so substantial burgers, pasta, pizza and hot sandwiches are available, as well as a buffet breakfast. Beers and cocktails are the drinks highlights. But there’s something very likeable about a place where you can eat and drink for well under a tenner, play some pool and have a bit of banter with the extraordinarily friendly bar staff. Because the hostel often hosts youth groups, it’s cool for kids too – something

Bar Missoni

1 George IV Bridge, Old Town, EH1 1AD (Map 2: C3, 34) 0131 220 6666, hotelmissoni.com | Mon–Sun 12.30–8pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 9am–1am.] Veg; HW £19.50; Kids; Wh. £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

JOSEPH PEARCE

A beautiful spacious bar at the top of Leith Walk. By the day a relaxed café with a kids corner from 11–5pm, free wi-fi and top Swedish Boda roast coffee. By night a bohemian mixed crowd enjoy aquavit based cocktails and unique Swedish cider served by super friendly staff. The food comes from an award-winning kitchen, named best Sunday lunch in Scotland by Observer Food monthly. Available for bookings: 23 Elm Row, Edinburgh EH7 4AA 0131 556 4140 www.bodabar.com and Joseph Pearce’s facebook page. Red Squirrel (page 29): burgers ’n’ beer with bite on Lothian Road The List Eating & Drinking Guide 19

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Edinburgh Barioja

15–19 Jeffrey Street, Old Town, EH1 1DR See Spanish

The Basement Bar and Restaurant

10–12a Broughton Street, New Town, EH1 3RH (Map 1: F4, 139) 0131 557 0097, thebasement.org.uk | Mon–Fri noon–10.30pm; Sat/Sun 12.30–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Fri noon–1am; Sat/Sun 12.30pm–1am.] Veg; HW £12.95. £9.50 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Situated below street level, this bar looks like the sort of place American sitcom characters would head for after a hard day’s mirth-making, thanks to the obligatory neon sign, mustard-coloured walls and staff dressed in Hawaiian shirts. It could be awful, but in a city with its fair share of samey style bars, the anti-cool approach is actually a welcome relief. It might not have style, but it’s got character and colour, not to mention a decent claim to Edinburgh’s best steak pie. Made with rump and merlot, it comes complete with cheese and onion mash to soak up the plush gravy. The rest of the eclectic menu features a splash of Mexicana, including a tasty chilli con carne. And with a great selection of wine, beer and spirits from around the world, plus a horde of good quality tequila, a quick drink could, quite conceivably, turn into a lost weekend. + Discovering tequila that’s actually drinkable - Tables are a bit too close together for comfort

The Birdcage

Stuart House, Eskmills, Station Road, Musselburgh EH21 7PQ See Scottish

The Black Cat

168 Rose Street, New Town, EH2 4BA (Map 1: B6, 53) 0131 225 3349, theblackcatbar.co.uk | Mon–Sun 11am–11pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 10.30am–1am.] Veg; HW £6; Kids. £6 (lunch) / £6 (dinner)

Too small to cater for Rose Street’s busloads of bevvy-merchants, the Black Cat has instead managed to build up a

loyal and more discerning following in the course of its first year. Owner Chris Miles is something of a whisky aficionado, and this is reflected in the extensive range of malts, many of which are mind-bogglingly obscure. There’s also an intriguing selection of beers, and the Tennents tap finds itself in unfamiliar territory – ousted to the bar’s outer fringes by Scotland’s more artisanal lagers and ales. The local theme also extends to the bar snacks and, while the likes of haggis balls and deep-fried Scotch pies might not sound appealing at first, here they are crispy and light on the grease. The native vibe is rounded off by live folk music on Mondays, Wednesdays and Sundays. This is contemporary Caledonia without needing to resort to clichés and kitsch. + The best of youthful contemporary Scotland - Not everyone will be bowled over by Scotland’s cuisine

The Blue Blazer

2 Spittal Street, West End, EH3 9DX (Map 4: E3, 54) 0131 229 5030 | Mon–Sat 11am–12.30am; Sun 12.30pm–12.30am. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–1am; Sun 12.30pm–1am.] Veg; HW £11.95; Kids.

Apparently Rod Stewart frequented this establishment in his younger days, and in many ways, the Blue Blazer is just like an ageing rock star, with its whiff of nostalgia and an unmistakeable smell of stale booze. And despite the fact that is has seen better days, it still beats the hell out of almost all of the modern pretenders. Throw in a back catalogue of fifty-odd whiskies, seventy-or-so rums and numerous cask-conditioned ales and it’s easy to see why the Blazer is such a perennial favourite with everyone from pensioners to Art School students. There are no gaudy adornments or faux-trendy affectations here – just royal-blue leather banquettes and a motley selection of stools and tables. The menu is very limited, but vegetarians are equally well catered for (the cheese toastie can either come with meat, or without). But who needs food when you’ve got a warm atmosphere, good company and great drinks? + A friendly, charming old-school boozer - Avoiding the toilets and keeping your legs crossed until you get home

The Blue Goose Country Pub

27 Lanark Road, EH14 1TG, 0131 629 4143, thebluegoosecountrypub. co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–3pm, 6–10pm (restaurant); noon–8pm (bar). [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–11pm.] Pre; HW £15.95; Kids; Wh. £11.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Now split into a restaurant and bar, which serves a handful of lighter meals and tapas throughout the day, the Blue Goose is a vast improvement from its previous incarnation as the Dell Inn. However, the style (country pub meets colonial) doesn’t quite gel, not helped by tired tables that look like they may have survived the makeover. With an eye for seasonal offerings, the menu often features foraged ingredients, like wild garlic picked in nearby Colinton Dell. Dishes such as twice-cooked pork belly with dauphinoise potato and apple chutney, and sea bream with caper and almond sauce are well-presented and technically good without being outstanding. While not actually in the country, it is situated on the banks of the Water of Leith, complete with sizeable beer garden, making it a nice place to stop for a mid-walk refreshment. + Well-behaved dogs are welcome in the bar - Cheap white paper napkins

Joseph Pearce’s (page 27): serving up sweet Scandanavian snacks

Boda Bar

229 Leith Walk, Leith, EH6 8NY (Map 1: H2, off) 0131 553 5900, bodabar.com | [Bar open: Mon–Fri 2pm–1am; Sat noon–1am; Sun 1pm–midnight.] HW £13.10; Kids (after 5pm).

One of the quartet of Swedish-run pubs spread across Leith, Boda is the original branch and, like the others, it’s a classy local that works hard but makes it look effortless. Among the bright corner bar’s unique selling points are a range of cocktails and some novelty vodka flavours including Werther’s Original and Skittles. There’s also an open-mic night on Monday called Chan Bang and a free buffet of colds meats and cheeses between 5–7pm on Fridays. But it’s the ability to appeal to all which sets it apart, with its child-friendliness (up until 5pm), convivial weeknight hangout atmosphere and livelier buzz at the weekend. + The bar that launched a lot of imitators - Deciding between this place or sister pub Victoria on the very next corner

✱

The Bon Vivant

55 Thistle Street, New Town, EH2 1DY (Map 1: C5, 81) 0131 225 3275, bonvivantedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–1am.] Veg; BYOB (from the restaurant’s sister wine shop next door only); HW £18. £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

With its Gallic flair for gluttony and enough wine on hand to raise the level of the Loire, this Thistle Street bar is aptly named. Oenophiles will be bowled over by a menu that offers some 42 wines by the glass alone, and – if you really want to show off – there’s also the chance to select something from the restaurant’s sister shop next door, which adds several hundred bins to the equation. Foodies are also spoilt for choice, as both starters and puddings are offered in miniature

£1 versions, so you can pick ’n’ mix, but in a rather more refined manner than in Woolworths. If this isn’t tempting enough the snug interior with its jazz and bluesinfused atmosphere might inspire you to kick off with a cocktail – and there are few who will be able to argue with, or perhaps after, The Last Word. + Mind-bogglingly exciting menus for both food and drink - Not the place to drop in to just for a pint

Bond No. 9

84 Commercial Street, Leith, EH6 6LX (Map 5: C3, 5) 0131 555 5578, bondno9. co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–1am.] Veg; HW £16.50; Kids; Wh. £10 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Bond No. 9 is set in the refurbished walls of an old Leith whisky bond. Dark wood panelling, low lighting and rich colours give the cocktail bar an opulent den-like feel that is luxe without straying into pretension. Inhouse concoctions, with a keen focus on Absinthe and Champagne recipes, share the pages with old favourites and modern classics. The Absinthe-based mixtures are an area of particular achievement, this tricky spirit adapting to all sorts of tastes with surprising aplomb. The food menu, which plays second fiddle to the impressive drinks selection, is almost unnecessarily good, offering a well-devised mixture of bar staples and creative options. The tapas-style light bites section features choices such as haggis bon bons and Thai fish stew (a muddling of mussels and vegetables in a rich tomato sauce) showcasing the kitchen’s real prowess and helping to stymie the flow of cocktails for a while at least. + Terrific selection of Absinthe cocktails - Main entrance is slightly off the beaten track

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The Bow Bar

80 West Bow, Victoria Street, Old Town, EH1 2HH (Map 2: C4, 41) 0131 226 7667 | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;2pm. [Bar open: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Thu noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;midnight; Fri/Sat noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; midnight; Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;11pm.] HW ÂŁ14.95; Kids.

Despite the name, Bow Bar is a pub. Not a trendy bar, not a concept pub, but a traditional real ale, real whisky, real pie pub. The drinks shelves are the smartest section of what is quite a small, dark, often heavily crowded room â&#x20AC;&#x201C; over 230 whiskies glow gently behind the bar, many of them single cask or from independent bottlers like Woodwinters in Newington. For real buffs, they include Port Ellen at around ÂŁ40 a nip, from the now-silent distillery. A regular CAMRA winner for its real ale choice, there are eight pumps, five rotating from cask to cask, and a wide selection of imported Belgian, German and US bottled beers. Food is limited to a daily delivered pie from Findlays of Portobello, a bargain at just ÂŁ2. + So friendly theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll welcome your dog - But they draw the line at kids

Bramble

16a Queen Street, New Town, EH2 1JE (Map 1: D4, 100) 0131 226 6343, bramblebar.co.uk | [Bar open: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun 4pmâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am.] HW ÂŁ14; Kids.

Passers-by can be forgiven for not noticing Bramble â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this place does everything short of donning a glassesnose-moustache combo in its effort to remain disguised. Indeed, not content merely to be buried in a Queen Street basement, it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even boast a sign. To Edinburghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cocktail cognoscenti, however, it has been firmly on the map for the last five years â&#x20AC;&#x201C; first and foremost for the bar staffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s imperious ability to mix an extensive selection of drinks. Brambleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s appeal is also enhanced by a number of quirky touches: drinks menus concealed within covers of hard-backed books, a number of cocktails served in teacups, and seating arrangements limited to perches in nooks, crannies and alcoves in its small, yet strangely labyrinthine interior. + An escape from everyday Edinburgh - Slightly hit and miss music selection

The Brass Monkey

â&#x20AC;˘ 14 Drummond Street, EH8 9TU (Map 2: E4, 84) 0131 556 1961 | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat 11â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am; Sun 12.30pmâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am. [Bar open: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat 11â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am; Sun 12.30pmâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am.] â&#x20AC;˘ 362 Leith Walk, Leith, EH6 5BR (Map 1: H2, off) 0131 554 5286 | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Fri noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;3pm, 6â&#x20AC;&#x201C;10pm; Sat noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;10pm; Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;8pm. [Bar open: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am.] Veg; HW ÂŁ9.50; Kids. ÂŁ3.50 (set lunch) / ÂŁ8.50 (dinner)

The latest addition in the effort to turn Leith Walk into Edinburghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premier street for welcoming and quirky local boozers, the Brass Monkey is the sister venue of Drummond Streetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s long-established original branch, a bar with a mainly studenty crowd and a bunk-seated cinema in the back room showing classic films at 3pm every day. The newer bar also has a big screen, showing films at 1pm if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s busy enough, but its catchment demographic is as broad as its odd art deco-meets-classic Oriental dĂŠcor. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a dartboard, a quiz on Monday, an open-access jam session on Tuesday and some above-average pub meals, including pizzas and juicy home-made beefburgers, the latter of which are on a two-for-ÂŁ8.50 offer during weekday lunchtimes. + The beer menu is excellent

â&#x153;ą HITLIST BARS & PUBS â&#x153;ą Bon Vivant The wine list alone is enough to justify a visit, while the nibbly starters and cocktails hold their own too. â&#x153;ą The Caley Sample Room Top-notch food, an admirable sourcing policy and craft beers galore: the Caley Sample Room sets the standard other gastropubs should be aspiring to. â&#x153;ą Holyrood 9a Fabulously greedy burgers, a varied and stylish beer list and a carefree atmosphere conducive to lost afternoons rightly pack this pub out. â&#x153;ą Joseph Pearceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Very childfriendly during the day, a buzzing hangout at night and appealing Swedish-influenced food at all times combine at one of Edinburghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best. â&#x153;ą The Saint Quite possibly the capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best pub food, yet refreshingly free from gastro gimmickry. â&#x153;ą Teuchters Landing An excellent beer and whisky selection, seating out on the jetty and mugs of hot food or fresh oysters and mussels should make this your first port of call. â&#x153;ą Underdogs All the eccentric charm of the other Dogs venues, which is only enhanced by a cocktail or two. â&#x153;ą Under the Stairs As close to La Rive Gauche as youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find in Edinburgh, but without the Parisian disdain for your custom. â&#x153;ą The WestRoom Superior

cocktails and food in funky surroundings prove that a touch of flair and some imagination can go a long way.

- Gets a bit hectic on a weekend night

BrewDog Edinburgh

143â&#x20AC;&#x201C;145 Cowgate, Old Town, EH1 1JS (Map 2: D4, 21) 0131 220 6517, brewdog. com | [Bar open: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am; Sun 12.30pmâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am.] HW ÂŁ14; Wh. ÂŁ8 (lunch) / ÂŁ8 (dinner)

Considering you are essentially entering a life-size advert when you step through the door of a Brewdog bar, the experience is surprisingly enjoyable. The carefully styled surroundings are rough-hewn concrete cool, with â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;bar rulesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; graffiti (â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;No Football! No Shots! No Stella!â&#x20AC;&#x2122;) scrawled on the walls like irreverent drinkersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in-jokes. The

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23-25 St. Leonardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Street, Edinburgh EH8 9QN t www.theauldhoose.co.uk The List Eating & Drinking Guide 21

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Edinburgh numerous pumps are mostly stocked with distinctive Brewdog beers, with ABVs varying between 2.8 and 10 per cent and names like Hops Kill Nazis and Tactical Nuclear Penguin. If you’re tired of more conventional Scottish nips, the menu stretches right to a 41 per cent Sink the Bismark. The rapidly expanding Brewdog empire speaks for the popularity of their range, but others are given a chance too – four rotating guest beers are on tap, with customers able to vote for the contents of one pump. The kitchen does a short list of choices well, with faultless pizzas and good-quality, beer-absorbing cheese and ham plates. + A whole new way of looking at beer - The pints might be cheeky but they’re not cheap

Café Royal Circle Bar

19 West Register Street, New Town, EH2 2AA (Map 1: F5, 108) 0131 556 1884, caferoyal.org.uk | Mon–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 12.30–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Wed 11am–11pm; Thu 11am–midnight; Fri/ Sat 11am–1am; Sun 12.30–11pm.] Veg; HW £13. £14 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

There are a few pubs that claim to be true Edinburgh institutions, but the Café Royal, which has been trading under the same name since 1863, surely deserves a place in the pantheon of the capital’s classics. Diners and drinkers alike are drawn to the pub’s Victorian interior, which boasts elegantly tiled walls and offers a welcome escape from the contemporary commercialism of nearby Princes Street. The bar also has an excellent menu, with seafood very much to the fore. The likes of oysters and mussels – the latter served by the kilo – are both safe and succulent bets, while the more adventurous might be drawn to the occasional specials, which can include rather more leftfield offerings. However, it might seem foolhardy to go for Jamaican-spiced halibut with sweet potato frittata and pineapple salsa when the standard seafood is so reliably good. + Stylish original interior - Seats are at a premium

✱

Bond No. 9 (page 20): a den-like location in deepest Leith for smart cocktails and tidy bar snacks

The Caley Sample Room

42–58 Angle Park Terrace, West End, EH11 2JR (Map 4: A4, off) 0131 337 7204, thecaleysampleroom.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–10pm; Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11.30am–midnight; Fri 11.30am–1am; Sat 11am–1am; Sun 11am–midnight.] HW £15.75; Kids; Wh. £6.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Nowadays, with every establishment that serves more than crisps seeing fit to label themselves a ‘gastropub’, it’s refreshing to discover somewhere that’s actually deserving of the title. The Caley Sample Room’s commitment to using

artisan suppliers and an enthusiasm for craft beers and ales has rightly earned them a hardcore following. They even hold regular tasting nights in conjunction with guest chefs, microbreweries and the Shandon Local Food Group (who also supply much of their fruit and vegetables). There’s no hint of food snobbery though, with everything, from the décor to the dishes, put together with an unassuming, easy-going nature. Arbroath smokie fish-cakes with a tarragon and grain mustard hollandaise are enjoyably flavoursome, and there’s the sense that it’s thought that goes into daily specials – like pork medallions with crushed celeriac and cider onions – rather than simply leftovers. Desserts, like sticky toffee pudding crème brulee or strawberry daiquiri sundae, are fun and well-executed. + Superb food and drink in comfortable, relaxed surroundings - We’ve told everyone about it now

The Canny Man’s

239 Morningside Road, Southside, EH10 4QU (Map 3: A5, off) 0131 447 1484 | Mon–Sun noon–9pm. [Bar open: Mon– Sun noon–11pm.] Kids (after 5pm). £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

With a colourful history and formidable reputation, the Canny Man remains a truly unique institution – how many pubs do you know that sell Salmanazars (nine-litre bottles) of champagne? Service from impeccably dressed staff is frequently charming but stories of the management refusing to serve people whose face doesn’t fit are rife. For some people this is part of its charm; others brave the frosty reception for the vast selection of whiskies, impressive wine list and one of the best Bloody Marys in town. The unusual décor sees every nook and cranny filled with everything from moose heads to muskets, sheet music to stuffed animals. Undoubtedly divisive,

but genuinely one of a kind. + A genuinely unique experience - Can be intimidating

The Canon’s Gait

232 Canongate, Old Town, EH8 8DQ (Map 2: E3, 112) 0131 556 4481, canonsgait.com | Mon–Sat noon–8pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu noon–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–1am.] Veg; HW £12.95. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

The Canon’s Gait is a pub with plans. It has become something of a hub for Edinburgh’s Gaelic community, and hosts Scottish folk music three nights a week: as a large space in the traditional heart of the city it takes to these roles well. It backs up this attitude to supporting local culture with a good selection of mostly Scottish real ales, as well as a draught craft cider – generally Thistly Cross. On the food side, gastropub ambitions are yet to be fully realised, with good flavours

GREENMANTLE HOME OF THE BUFFALO BURGER Award winning cask ales

Puddlebub BuɈalo Burgers

Live Football throughout the week Snapfax deals

greenmantlepub@gmail.com

●

greenmantlepub.co.uk

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from a juicy ballantine of chicken, but a heavy batter on some unfortunately gritty ‘mussel popcorn’. There’s a sense that the place is still finding its audience – the balance between authentic community pub and trendy dining space is not quite there yet. + A welcome flag-flyer for decent ales - Not a huge choice for wine drinkers

City Café

19 Blair Street, Old Town, EH1 1QR (Map 2: D3, 20) 0131 220 0125, thecitycafe. co.uk | Mon–Sun 10am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 9am–1am.] Veg; HW £15.50 red; £14.50 white; Kids; Wh; T/A. £6 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Pull up your pop socks and pick a song for the juke box: the City Café is your Grease-shaped American diner. Its red banquettes are just right for a short lie down after eating more than your fill of the great BBQ sharing platter, with sticky pork ribs, juicy prawns and delicious mini Borders beef burgers. Once you’ve recovered, the menu is long and slightly bewilderingly international, with Moroccan tagine sitting next to chilli con carne and a fully loaded hot dog, and curries next to crepes. The all-day breakfast is perhaps the most interesting page, the softly poached eggs Benedict arriving with good bacon. The Café is famous for its tall milkshakes in every flavour from fresh fruit to Ferrero Rocher (with alcoholic options for the grown-ups) and for its dedicated service to the curing of hangovers, even serving a special effervescent drink composed of every known vitamin. + With a pool table in the back, this a viable all-day hangout - Vitamin drinks aside, this ain’t health food

The Cloisters

26 Brougham Street, Tollcross, EH3 9JH (Map 3: C1, 5) 0131 221 9997 | Tue–Thu noon–3pm, 5–9pm; Fri noon–4pm; Sat/ Sun 12.30–6pm. [No food Mon.]. [Bar open: Sun–Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am.] HW £11.75; Kids. £9.50 (lunch) / £10.50 (dinner)

Despite the name and former-church setting, the only monks you’ll find in The Cloisters are those behind the bar – in the form of guest beers like the fruity (and potent) Westmalle, brewed by Belgian Trappists. They’d no doubt approve of the no-frills approach to décor too; this is a bar that doesn’t pander to posers. Instead, regulars come simply to enjoy a slew of intriguing ales, the good-natured atmosphere and agreeable, no-nonsense grub. A new kitchen set-up means the formerly inhibitive food service hours have been relaxed a little, but in keeping with the surroundings, the menu is brief. There are, however, some welcome surprises alongside the above-average pub staples of battered haddock and burger and chips. Cider broth with goat’s cheese and potato dumplings has a heady, intoxicating aroma, while pork cheeks braised in soy and King’s ginger liqueur are satisfyingly hearty. + Great selection of beers and ales - Still no evening meals at the weekend

Cruz Bar and Restaurant

14 The Shore, Leith, EH6 6QN (Map 5: D3, 16) 0131 553 6600, thecruz.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–9pm. [Bar open: Mon– Sun noon–1am.] Veg; HW £11.95; Kids. £6.95 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

A First World War minesweeper boat anchored right at the heart of Leith’s bustling Shore district, Cruz has to be among the most distinctive drinking venues in Edinburgh. A popular watering hole with the area’s young party crowd,

Cruz serves up an extensive cocktail menu covering all the classics from the Old-Fashioned through to the more recently favoured fruit Mojitos. Drinks are made with an attention to detail that you might not expect from a baron-a-boat, and open-air drinking on the top deck proves to be a fun place to overlook the Water of Leith on a sunny afternoon. A bar food menu is available, with a variety of thin-crust pizzas served alongside pub classics such as nachos and burgers – all well-done ways to soak up the drinks on this buzzing party boat. + The on-a-boat experience - Can get busy and noisy

Divino Enoteca

5 Merchant Street, Old Town, EH1 2QD (Map 2: C4, 51) 0131 225 1770, divinoedinburgh.com | Tue–Thu, Sun 3–11pm; Fri/Sat 3pm–midnight. Closed Mon. [Bar open: Tue–Thu, Sun noon– midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am. Closed Mon.] Veg; HW £19; Wh. £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Divino is the charming, seductive brother to fun-loving sister restaurant Vittoria upstairs. Pretty well hidden under George IV Bridge, this wine bar and restaurant combines candle-lit romance with cutting-edge wine gadgetry. In its strictest sense, an enoteca is a wine repository – Divino prefers library – aimed at allowing tourists to try a region’s wares and buy their favourites. Divino fulfils both demands with their hundreds-strong Italian wine list, 42 of which come by the glass, and a discount on off-licence purchases. Particularly clever are the Enomatic wine dispensers, keeping tasting bottles at optimum condition under inert gas, and their ‘wine flights’, whereby you travel Italy’s regions via tasting glasses. Food is based on good, DOP Italian ingredients, which can include marinated cheeses and truffled salamis rarely found in Edinburgh. Between four and seven pm is cicchetti time, which means as many little bites of antipasti as you like for £1. + The best selection of grappa for miles around - A place for lingering, not for a cheap, quick dinner

T H E

Dragonfly

52 West Port, Old Town, EH1 2LD (Map 2: A4, 47) 0131 228 4543, dragonflycocktailbar.com | Mon–Sun 4–9pm (pizza delivery). [Bar open: Mon– Sun 4pm–1am.] HW £14.95; Kids; Wh.

A step away from the Grassmarket rugby pubs is a bar with a different attitude to the serious business of drinking. The conscientious eclecticism of the décor – think palatial chandeliers and kung fu stencilled walls – extends to the DJ deck and the cocktail list. There’s a dry sense of humour throughout the menu, an imaginative reworking of the classics, and some confoundingly reasonable prices (Hendricks and tonic for £3.70). A Guinness daiquiri manages to be simultaneously manly, pretty and drinkable, while Up the Apples and Pears (‘This is not “one of your 5-a-day”, and that’s not funny’) is dangerously tasty. There are touches here and there of the fancy, but the spirits aren’t unrecognisably exotic. Shying away from high-falutin’ terms like ‘mixologist’, Dragonfly concentrates on affordable, intriguing, fine-tasting cocktails. + Peckish? They’ll deliver a pizza to your table from the excellent Mamma’s over the road - The hand-made menus have record covers so cool over 100 have been stolen in six months – they’re being changed soon

COMEDY CLUB

LIVE COMEDY 7 NIGHTS A WEEK

5 York Place, Edinburgh

0131 558 7272 333 Woodlands Rd, Glasgow

www.thestand.co.uk

0844 335 8879 The List Eating & Drinking Guide 23

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There’s something for everyone at y Locally Sourced Seasonal Menu

Acoustic music sets Beer garden Cocktails, Wines and Real Beers

Lebowskis Edinburgh 0131 466 1779 edinburgh@lebowskis.co.uk Lebowskis Glasgow 0141 564 7988 glasgow@lebowskis.co.uk

0131 669 0082

Scotland’s Best Gourmet Burger

Food Childrren Welcome Drink FreefrWieifndi ly Music Dog 662-64 2-644 Bath Street Sttreet Portobello, Edinburg Edinburgh, EH15 1HF Portobello

www.the-espy.com

Earl of Marchmont

22 Marchmont Crescent, Southside, EH9 1HG (Map 3: E3, 36) 0131 662 1877, theearlofmarchmont.blogspot.com | Mon–Sat noon–1am; Sun noon–midnight. Veg; HW £12.95. £8 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

Much like its Canongate sister the White Horse, the Earl is a grand mixture of classic Edinburgh local and funkedup eclectic touches. The crowd is a hotch-potch of students, cheery thirtysomethings and a clutch of venerable regulars decorating the front of the small bar. The atmosphere is generally convivial, and the drinks selection is a strong suit, with a great mixture of cocktails (available Mon–Thu) and intelligently selected house wines sitting alongside traditional whiskies and ales. The food is somewhat weaker: nachos lack any discernible flavour and a lamb hotpot, although tasty, is served in portions not designed to satisfy serious hunger pangs. Nonetheless this is a reliably lovely spot for an evening’s chatter over a bottle or two, and the pretty pavement seating makes a good spot to watch the world wander by on pleasant evenings. + Lovely ambience - Food fails to live up to expectations

Ecco Vino

19 Cockburn Street, Old Town, EH1 1BP (Map 2: C3, 9) 0131 225 1441, babygrandgroup.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm; Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11am– midnight; Fri/Sat 11am–1am; Sun 11am– midnight.] Veg; HW £15.95; Kids; Wh. £6.50 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

This understated, grown-up wine bar has been calmly getting it right for over a decade. The bottles that line the walls are laid out intuitively in the wine list, and there’s a reassuringly generous hand with the advice and the tasting glasses if you’re not confident in navigating it (or even if you are). Prices are impressively democratic, with drinkability guaranteed right down to the cheapest glass. A short, simple menu offers food reliant on tried and tested Mediterranean ingredients – the tiny kitchen behind the bar is stocked with everything a good antipasti board needs. Chorizo, good cheeses, fresh basil and Serrano ham run through the salads, spaghettis and risottos, while a specials board rings the seasonal changes. Surrounded by glinting mirrors and rich leather, with good wine and the freshest of ingredients to hand, it’s easy to see how this compact bar has weathered the competition. + From antipasti to organic ice-cream, simple serves them – and us – well - But overcooked king prawns prove the kitchen’s not infallible

El Bar

6–8 Howden Street, Southside, EH8 9LH See Spanish

Elbow

133–135 East Claremont Street, New Town, EH7 4JA (Map 1: F1, 155) 0131 556 5662, elbowedinburgh.co.uk | Mon– Sun 11am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am–1am.] HW £13.95; Wh. £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

On a quiet side street on the fringes of Broughton, co-owner and sometime ubiquitous Edinburgh club DJ Trendy Wendy has built a neighbourhood bar with real character. It looks amazing, with a mirrorball sprinkling light across the walls, a split-level interior lit in clubby, multi-coloured tones and a snug under the stairs adorned with brightly painted bird’s nests for no evident reason. The food menu is diverse and prepared with

skill, from a smartly modern shrimp cocktail tossed in salad leaves and a light Marie Rose sauce to a hot chilli served in a small pot alongside cheese, mini pittas and home-made salsa. Burgers, open sandwiches and a pie of the day are equally home-made options, while a Tuesday pub quiz and live music, open mic and DJ events at the weekend are designed to draw a crowd. + A fun local that makes an effort - Regular weeknights can be quiet

Element

110–114 Rose Street, City Centre, EH2 3JF (Map 1: C6, 69) 0131 225 3297, elementedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Thu 11am–10pm; Fri/Sat 11am–9pm; Sun 11am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am–1am.] Veg; HW £13.95. £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

This popular neighbourhood cocktail bar is just far enough off George Street to feel intimate, and attracts a varied clientele, from sports enthusiasts in for the big screens to post-work, cocktail-hungry young professionals. There’s the sense that it can’t quite decide what it wants to be: the trendy bar, flock wallpaper and leather seating say cocktail bar, but the food menu is pure pub. On the drinks list, the happily named Gin Salad is refreshingly full of cucumber and mint flavours, while Pomegranate Bliss is crisp with cranberry and fresh lemon. The food, however, is not what it could be. Fishcakes are fine, but mini falafels on the mezze plate are cold and stodgy, tempura batter is heavy, and though the main dish of sole is perfectly cooked, it tastes rather stale. Desserts fare better, and include sticky toffee pudding and pear and cream soda crumble. + The warm and welcoming interior and lounge area sofas - Food is, frustratingly, not as enticing

The Espy

62–64 Bath Street, Portobello, Portobello, EH15 1HF, 0131 669 0082, the-espy.com | Sun–Wed 10am–9pm; Thu–Sat 10am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon– Thu 10am–11pm; Fri–Sun 10am–1am.] Veg; HW £13.65; Kids; Wh. £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

It might officially be the Esplanade, but ‘The Espy’ – ideally delivered with an Antipodean twang – as it’s better known, suits this laid-back beach bar better. With friendly staff and a welcoming atmosphere it proves there’s more to Portobello than outmoded amusement arcades. Food-wise the selection of 8oz burgers is hard to beat, although the specials menu is tempting too. The choice of drinks includes some great value and tasty cocktails, while you don’t need to be teetotal to be bowled over by the home-made ginger beer and lemonade. Entertainment is also a big part of the Espy ethos, with Australia Day prompting a serious weekend of revelry, while live music, film nights and Mexican evenings are also regular events. Meanwhile, on quieter evenings, it is a great place just to sit back and admire the lights of Fife and the Lothians reflected in the Firth. + Shows there’s still an upbeat vibe in some Scottish seaside towns - It’s a shame there aren’t more like it

56 North

2–8 West Crosscauseway, Southside, EH8 9JP (Map 3: G1, 40) 0131 662 8860, fiftysixnorth.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am–1am.] HW £13.80; Kids. £21 (lunch)

56 North is a well-coordinated place that evidently knows its target market: young professionals who don’t balk at paying over the odds for a snifter if they can do it amid plate glass and inoffensive décor

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Edinburgh and – given the generous 25 per cent discount afforded to them – students from the adjacent university after something a bit nicer than standard bar scran for lunch. The steak is a particular winner: drool-making and delicious, as good as you’ll get anywhere nearby – try it with the punchy peppercorn sauce and skinny chips. The large street-facing bar windows slide open in the summer, and the pavement seating is a grand spot to grab a view of the sun setting over Appleton Tower with a sloe gin or one of the bar’s nifty cocktails-from-a-suitcase. Despite this, the atmosphere feels a bit contrived and formulaic; in defiance of its name you could be anywhere from Lerwick to Luton. If social sipping à la Hollyoaks is your thing, orientate yourself here. + Tasty, tasty steak - Rather lacking in character and charm

Filmhouse Café Bar

88 Lothian Road, West End, EH3 9BZ See Arts Venues

Ghillie Dhu

2 Rutland Place, West End, EH1 2AD (Map 4: C2, 17) 0131 222 9930, ghilliedhu.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11.30am–3am.] HW £12.95; Kids; Wh. £10.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

You might have misgivings about visiting a Scottish theme pub, but Ghillie Dhu manages to pull off the shtick without resorting to the expected tartan twee. Instead, the interior is reminiscent of a simple Highland shooting lodge, with exposed stonework, aged pine and muted colours. The food is, unsurprisingly, a largely Caledonian take on typical pub meals: pan-seared chicken breast with haggis and venison and redcurrant sausages and mash are enjoyable although unspectacular and their very own craft beer – the Ghillie Ale – is worth sampling. There’s a definite party atmosphere, particularly as the week progresses. Bigger groups are well catered for, with plenty of booth seating (including nifty private snugs, complete with saloon doors) and there’s live music each night, ranging from folk and roots to contemporary pop and rock. Those keen for a birl round the dance floor can head upstairs for a full-scale ceilidh come the weekend. + Hidden booths behind the bar, complete with private service hatches - Main courses are more expensive than in similar establishments

Greenmantle

133 Nicolson Street, Southside, EH8 9JP (Map 2: E5, 71) 0131 662 8741, greenmantlepub.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–midnight. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–1am; Sun 12.30pm–1am.] HW £12; Kids (under 5); T/A; D. £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

With a scoreboard of their top beers on the wall and poker nights on Sundays, this old-fashioned corner bar’s relatively recent update appears to have taken place with the local student population in mind. The atmosphere is somewhere between shabby-chic and pack-’em-in, with a hectic papered feature wall competing for attention with sports on the box, but the staff are young and friendly, the bar is well-stocked and the menu – featuring burgers and chilli made from Puddledub buffalo meat, Arbroath smokie fishcakes and soup of the day served with a Shetland ‘bannock’ scone – is a cut above regular boozing ballast. Sunday is quiz night and Wednesday is Spanish night, for native speakers or those who would like to learn the language. + Good beers and great buffalo burgers - Very student-focused

The Salisbury Arms (page 30): putting new life and an action-packed menu into Newington

The Guildford Arms

1–5 West Register Street, New Town, EH2 2AA (Map 1: F5, 109) 0131 556 4312, guildfordarms.com | Mon–Thu noon– 2.30pm, 5.30–9.30pm; Fri/Sat noon– 10pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 5.30–9.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11am–11pm; Fri/ Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30–11pm.] Veg; HW £12.95; Kids (under 5). £16 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

The Guildford is definitely one of the city centre’s most venerable boozers – a triumph of solid Victorian substance over fleeting contemporary style. But despite its comfortably fading grandeur it has, to some extent, moved with the times. Most impressively, this is reflected in its inclusion of a number of interesting ales and lagers, with the likes of St Mungo’s being well worth a try. Slightly less congruous to the surrounds, however, is the small upstairs restaurant, whose garish bar and designer tables are rather at odds with the rest of the pub. Nevertheless, if you want to stray from bar snacks you must ascend to this contemporary cocoon, where there’s a chance to sample a more inventive menu while looking down at the hoi polloi. However, you might also prefer to remain in the cheap seats and stick to the more traditional chips ’n’ pints vibe. + An extensive and original drinks menu - Restaurant feels out of sync with the main body of the pub

Guilty Lily

284 Bonnington Road, Leith, EH6 5BE (Map 1: F1, off) 0131 554 5824, guiltylily. co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–3pm, 5–9pm; Fri–Sun noon–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu noon–midnight; Fri–Sun noon–1am.] Veg; HW £12.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

From the rockabilly music coming over the speakers to the ‘50s movie posters and cheesecake burlesque shots decorating the walls, Guilty Lily proves to be a bar of welcoming and

slightly saucy character. Its success as a local boozer has been built on this reputation, as well as a variety of weekly events (a quiz on Monday, live music every Saturday and themed food nights including Mexican Wednesdays, steak on Saturday and a popular Sunday roast), while the food is above-average pub fare. Expect a daily soup along the lines of a thick, rich cream of cauliflower, a bunch of quick and modestly priced pasta dishes and larger snacks including nachos and deep-fried camembert, while a well-done, Cajun-spiced chicken fillet served with goat’s cheese on a bun is a hearty treat. + A loveable local with real personality - The food is the least attention-grabbing thing on offer

Hamiltons Bar and Kitchen

16–18 Hamilton Place, Stockbridge, EH3 5AU (Map 1: B3, 23) 0131 226 4199, hamiltonsedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 9am–1am.] LC; Veg; HW £14.50; Kids. £16 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

This dusky Stockbridge stronghold never looks the most inviting, yet is always busy – packed with pram-pushing mothers during the hours of daylight, and stuffed with drink-quaffing suits of an evening. And, with separate menus on offer for breakfast, brunch and dinner it is clear that it is capable of adapting to the needs of its assorted clientele. The enticing evening food selection, with starters such as pan-fried chorizo with sherry, lemon, chilli and tomatoes, and mains such as pork belly, Stornoway black pudding and crispy pig’s cheeks with rhubarb tempura, may not quite live up to its promise on paper, but the food is still decent and is also backed up by both a good range of beers and – perhaps more surprisingly – an impressive armoury of inventive cocktails to boot. + Exceptionally tempting menu - Let down by the ho-hum nature of the food

Hard Rock Café

20 George Street, New Town, EH2 2PF See North American

Hectors

47–49 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge, EH4 1LR (Map 1: A3, 15) 0131 343 1735, hectorsstockbridge.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Wed noon–midnight; Thu/Fri noon–1am; Sat 11am–1am; Sun 11am–midnight.] Veg; HW £12.50; Wh. £8.50 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Something of a chameleon, Hectors

TIPList FOR DRINKS • The Black Cat A whisky and beer list of note 20 • The Blue Blazer A rum deal, and ales too 20 • Bond No. 9 Crafty cocktails by the Shore 20 • Bramble Smooth basement cocktails

• BrewDog Edinburgh The topsy-turvy world of punk brewing 21 • Divino Enoteca Underground scene for class in a wine glass 23 • Sygn It all points to a ﬁne cocktail list 31 • The Voodoo Rooms Drinks, music and sultry surrounds 43

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Guildford Arms

‘gallery’

Restaurant Over Classic Real Ale Bar Established 1898 1 West Register Street. tele: 0131 556 4312

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Edinburgh seems to be able to morph from a quiet and comfortable daytime retreat – where lunch and a quiet pint with the papers are very much the order of the day – to a lively but friendly nightspot, where the excellent selection of draught beers combined with the upbeat and often obscure music make it a good alternative to the doom and boom of the city centre’s clubs. Food-wise there is also an impressive selection and, while Sunday brunch is undoubtedly the biggest crowdpleaser, there are all sorts of options for the rest of the week, from a selection of sandwiches to fixed-price and à la carte options. And, if none of these fit the bill, there’s a good range of bar snacks too. + Lively without being overly loud - Has discontinued its Sunday evening northern soul and ska sessions

with crisply roasted hasselback potatoes and poached egg, all washed down with a great draught and bottled drinks selection. + Welcoming ethos and quality cooking - Bistro rather than bar prices

Kay’s Bar

39 Jamaica Street, New Town, EH3 6HF (Map 1: B4, 46) 0131 225 1858, kaysbar.co.uk | Fri–Sat noon–2.30pm; Sun 12.30–2.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11am–midnight; Fri/Sat 11am–1am; Sun 12.30–11pm.] Veg; HW £14.10; Kids; Wh. £7.50 (lunch)

This pocket-sized pub, squirreled away among the New Town’s cobbles, is the perfect place for whiling away an afternoon with the papers and a pint. Refreshingly unpretentious, it offers a window into the pre-wine-bar world, with a focus on real ales and classic pub grub – the likes of Scotch pies, chips and beans, prepared by the bar staff. A coal fire, wood-panelled back room and a selection of oak barrels all add to the old-world atmosphere and, in the absence of a stereo, and with the TV largely redundant, there’s plenty of banter to be had from those on either side of the bar. Kay’s is a welcome relic from an earlier age – it’s only a shame there are so few like it left in town. + Old-world charm - Can invoke unhealthy levels of nostalgia

Henricks Bar

1 Barclay Place, Southside, EH10 4HW (Map 3: B2, 18) 0131 229 2442, hendricksbar.com | Mon–Fri 10am– 10pm; Sat/Sun 10am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 10am–1am.] Veg; Pre; HW £12.95; Kids; Wh. £10.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

This modern bistro bar provides a useful alternative to the more traditional boozers in the local area. Increasingly wine and food focused, the relaxed atmosphere means you will feel equally at home with a pint, a glass of wine and some nibbles or a full three-course dinner. The menu takes in solid renditions of bar staples such as burgers and fish ’n’ chips alongside a few more contemporary dishes – a well-cooked piece of cod is sensitively partnered with Puy lentils and a light vermouth sauce that doesn’t overpower the delicate fish. The monthly Monday night Wine Society provides the opportunity to meet visiting wine makers or to pick some new additions for the wine list. Owners Ailsa and Chris are keen not to stand still, so expect a few more one-off events along the lines of cocktail masterclasses and beer evenings. + Friendly, relaxed atmosphere - Slightly let down by identikit modern bar décor

✱

The Holyrood 9A

9a Holyrood Road, Old Town, EH8 8AE (Map 2: E3, 105) 0131 556 5044, fullerthomson.com | Mon–Sun 9am–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 9am– midnight; Fri/Sat 9am–1am; Sun 9am– midnight.] HW £13; Kids. £12.50 (lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

If you can’t remember your last really great burger, head to Holyrood Road to have your faith in the patty renewed. Savouries are split between ‘one’ and ‘two handers’ – the former being edible with a fork while chatting, the latter needing both hands, a stack of napkins and all your concentration. Like the juicy venison burger, with melted brie and cranberry sauce dripping out of it – or any of the other seventeen on the list, packed with the likes of smoked applewood cheese, rosemary mushrooms and spicy ‘death sauce’. There’s also a list of gigantic ice-cream sundaes that will give you a sugar rush to last the weekend. The twelve coolest chrome pumps you’ve ever seen pour out regularly changing craft drafts from Scotland and beyond, though the truncated wine list seems more of an afterthought. This no-frills, red-brick and dark-wood space is for meatier things than wine. + Burgers of distinction - Food service ends quite early

Iglu

2b Jamaica Street, New Town, EH3 6HH See Scottish

The Kilderkin

BrewDog Edinburgh (page 21): beer to make you warm and fuzzy inside

Indigo Yard

7 Charlotte Lane, West End, EH2 4QZ (Map 4: C1, 5) 0131 220 5603, indigoyardedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sun 8.30am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–1am; Sun 12.30pm–1am.] HW £17.95; Kids; Wh. £10 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

While not as conspicuously trendy as some of its West End neighbours, Indigo Yard’s exposed walls and unusual shape create a cosy, cave-like feel – although at weekends it can be cramped. It’s a popular spot for a tipple, with 15 beers on tap, another 20 in the bottle (crafts and classics) and a multitude of respectable wines and cocktails. Food-wise, the kitchen harbours bistro-esque ambitions, where dishes are well-presented and surpass the average pub fare, even if they don’t always reach their aspired-to heights. Corn-fed chicken with gnocchi comes dressed in a moreish chive hollandaise that avoids being too oily, but a pink and succulent lamb rump is let down by some tired green beans and a partially burnt rösti. Desserts won’t win awards for imagination, but wickedly indulgent staples like the chocolate brownie sundae certainly score high on the satisfaction scale. + The set dinner menu offers great value for money - The execution of some dishes can be a little haphazard

iso-bar

7 Bernard Street, Leith, EH6 6PW (Map 5: D4, 26) 0131 467 8904, isobar-leith.co.uk | Mon–Fri 10am–3pm, 5.30pm–8.30pm; Sat/Sun 10am–5pm. [Bar open: Mon– Sun 10am–1am.] HW £12.50; Kids. £10 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

In a location more useful to locals than those after destination dining and drinking, Leith’s iso-bar has long since deservedly outstripped the era of the style bar with an attention to detail that’s best exemplified by the food. Chef and

co-owner Allan Woodhall seems to have nailed a formula which allows him to produce richly flavoured, affordable and hearty pub food with no fuss but plenty of fans. A tapas menu features delicious salt and chilli fried squid, firm to the bite but delicately battered, while mains include a range of burgers, a Spanish sausage and chicken linguini and an inventive home-made macaroni pie in rich cheese sauce and shortcrust pastry. There are twice-weekly live music sets upstairs and the Tennerfest three-course lunch deal is a real bargain. + Good live music program and great food - Some of the snug booth seats have seen better days

Itchycoo Bar & Kitchen

80 High Street, Old Town, EH1 1TH See Bistros & Brasseries

✱

Joseph Pearce’s

23 Elm Row, New Town, EH7 4AA (Map 1: G3, 152) 0131 556 4140, bodabar.com | Mon–Thu 11am–3pm, 5–9.30pm; Fri/ Sat 11am–9pm, Sun 11am–9pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu 11am–midnight; Fri/Sat 11am–1am.] Veg; HW £13.10; Kids (until 5pm). £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Pearce’s huge popularity is testament to the warm and genuine welcome it extends to a diverse clientele. During the day a raised area to the back is a familyfriendly haven, stocked with all the toys, highchairs and feeding paraphernalia that junior patrons and their beleaguered parents could require. From 5pm a more grown-up but equally laid-back atmosphere pervades, making Pearce’s a favourite haunt of a cool crowd seeking simple relaxation or perhaps taking part in one of the regular jogging, Scrabble or language groups. Many, however, will be there to enjoy the Scandinavian-tinged menu of gravadlax on crispbread with dill, pork meatballs with root vegetable mash in a plum sauce or smoked haddock

67 Canongate, Old Town, EH8 8BT (Map 2: F2, 113) 0131 556 2101 | Mon–Thu 11am–10.30pm; Fri/Sat 11–12.30am; Sun 12.30–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon– Thu 11am–11pm; Fri/Sat 11–1am; Sun 12.30–11pm.] HW £11.95; Kids; Wh. £11 (lunch) / £7 (dinner)

With a name like this (it’s a unit of measuring ale equivalent to two firkins or half a barrel) it’s no surprise to find that Kilderkin is serious about its alcohol. Under the co-ownership of James Nisbet, also of Leith Walk’s Windsor Buffet and formerly of the Blue Blazer, the place stocks around 70 rums and 40 whiskies, and plays host to the Blazer’s former rum club and regular whisky tasting events. The arched ceilings and chocolate brown church pew seats lend the air of a typically relaxed classic Scots boozer, but the attitude to drink and freshly prepared food is forward-thinking, including a daytime menu of pub classics like haggis, neeps and tatties and Cajun-style quarter chicken, and an evening-only menu of thin-crust, stone-baked pizzas boasting tourist-friendly toppings including haggis and black pudding. + The drink selection is breath-taking - Evenings can be a little quiet outside tourist season

The King’s Wark

36 The Shore, Leith, EH6 6QU (Map 5: D3, 24) 0131 554 9260, thekingswark. co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–10pm; Sun 11am–4pm, 5–10pm. Dining room: Mon–Sun 5–10pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu noon–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–midnight.] HW £14.50. £13 (lunch) / £13/£16 (dinner)

First and foremost the King’s Wark is a good, solid pub. The dark wood tables and floors have been lovingly restored, Scottish ales are served on tap and the bar is well-stocked with a healthy combination of pub classics and wellselected imports. The staff are helpful and know their stuff, making the place a hit with pleasant locals who help to give the pub a cosy and welcoming atmosphere. It is almost excessive, then, that the food on offer is quite as good as it is. A loyalty to local produce

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Edinburgh and seasonality dictates the simple but effective menu, with a variety of seafood dishes referencing the barâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shorefront location. Often ignored meats such as rabbit and pigeon make surprising but worthwhile inclusions and are presented and seasoned to the highest quality. On Sundays families and hungover masses alike can be seen filtering through the frosted-glass doors for a taste of the nowfamous two-course breakfast menu which must be one of the most popular in town. + The Sunday breakfasts - Not many vegetarian options

+ Twenty variations on the White

Lebowskis

The Meadow Bar

18 Morrison Street, West End, EH3 8BJ (Map 4: D3, 52) 0131 466 1779, lebowskis. co.uk | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;9pm. [Bar open: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am.] HW ÂŁ12.50; Kids. ÂŁ5.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ13.50 (dinner)

Considering this lively bar takes its name from a cult American anti-hero, the menu has a distinctly Scottish bent. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no bad thing though, especially given the quality â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you could easily imagine Jeff Bridgesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; character chowing down on some home-made haggis lasagne or one of their impressively stacked burgers. They also make a decent effort to source local and seasonal produce, particularly for the daily specials. Dark wood and leather predominates, which combined with a lack of natural light, create a subterranean feel. That makes it an ideal venue to squirrel yourself away in a dark corner to see out the day after the night before, easing the pain with some feel-good grub, and a house speciality White Russian. Live music runs from Wednesday to Saturday, and although the standard varies, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not over-bearing and always adds to the atmosphere.

Russian, Dude - Popular dishes like haggis lasagne often sell out early

The Living Room

113â&#x20AC;&#x201C;115 George Street, New Town, EH2 4JN See Bistros & Brasseries

The Magnum Restaurant & Bar

1 Albany Street, New Town, EH1 3PY See Scottish

42â&#x20AC;&#x201C;44 Buccleuch Street, Southside, Southside, EH8 9LP (Map 3: G1, 46) 0131 667 6907, meadowbar.com | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Fri noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;9.30pm; Sat noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;6pm; no food on Sun. [Bar open: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Fri 11amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am; Sat & Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am.] Veg; HW ÂŁ9.95; Kids (until 5pm); T/A. ÂŁ9.50 (lunch)

There are few watering holes in Edinburgh that can boast a guardian spirit. The genius loci of the aptly named Meadow Bar is an enormous metal snake uncoiled along the ceiling: those intrepid enough to brave the basilisk stare will find one of the most understatedly pleasant spots in the Southside. Crispybased pizzas with a rainbow of tasty toppings are a sage choice, and the ice-cream sundae is a massive glass of cold, caramel-veined joy, worthy of a star in itself. The atmosphere is low-key, busy and convivial, with friendly staff and a small bar and venue room upstairs available for free hire. A prime spot to grab coffee and curly fries and rifle through the newspapers. + A lovely place - Can get slightly squashed

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The Mitre

133 High Street, Old Town, EH1 1SG (Map 2: D3, 93) 0131 652 3902, nicholsonspubs.co.uk/ themitrebarroyalmileedinburgh | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;10pm. [Bar open: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Thu noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;midnight; Fri/Sat noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am.] HW ÂŁ13.50; Kids. ÂŁ15 (lunch) / ÂŁ15 (dinner)

Yes, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s part of a chain, the food is not fully made from scratch, and the touristcentric cheese isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t entirely limited to the plates, but thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a reliability here that should not be dismissed. The menu changes seasonally, and essential cooking standards are heartening: calamari, so often soggy or rubbery, is light, crisp and fresh tasting; steak is rakishly rare. Royal Mile prices, however, make value for money questionable. If you can, stick to the bar tables rather than the restaurant at the back â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you can check out the fantastic ceiling, the atmosphere is more genuine, and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re more likely to take advantage of the specialist real ales and Speyside whiskies. The drinks list is sparkier on that front than on the somewhat ersatz cocktails side, and there are several reasonably priced bottles of wine. + An impressive range of real ales and whiskies - The prices, and the niggling knowledge that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not an independent

Montpeliers Bar and Brasserie

159â&#x20AC;&#x201C;161 Bruntsfield Place, Southside, EH10 4DG See Bistros & Brasseries

Mrs Formanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bar & Kitchen

2 Ravensheugh Road, Portobello, EH21 7PP, 0131 665 0430, mrsformans.co.uk | Tueâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;2.30pm, 5.30â&#x20AC;&#x201C;9pm. Closed Mon. [Bar open: Tueâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; 11pm. Closed Mon.] Pre; HW ÂŁ14.95; Kids; Wh. ÂŁ16 (lunch) / ÂŁ16 (dinner)

Mrs Formanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Inn may have been established in 1822 on the edge of Musselburghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Golf Course (officially recognised as the oldest golf course in the world) but the latest management team have only just taken the reigns. The menu at this husband and wife operation is built around the fresh produce delivered from local suppliers. Begin with a tasty starter of haggis and Belhaven smoked cheese with red onion jam or opt for a main of grilled sea bass served with mussels and a light parsley and garlic butter sauce. Meat lovers can get their teeth into the house steak, succulent striploin in three sizes to suit all appetites, and although the choice for vegetarians is limited the dishes on offer are well executed. Desserts such as crĂ¨me brĂťlee and sticky toffee pudding also impress. All dishes served are of a high quality and this destination attracts a sophisticated crowd of locals and golf tourists who regularly book the place up on Friday and Saturday nights. + Enjoy dishes in the large beer garden in summer - Perched on the corner of a roundabout

99 Hanover Street

99 Hanover Street, New Town, EH2 1DJ (Map 1: D5, 96) 0131 225 8200, 99hanoverst.com | [Bar open: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Thu, 4pmâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am; Fri 3pmâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am; Sat noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1pm; Sun 5pmâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am.] HW ÂŁ13.95; Kids; Wh.

This opulent venue was taken over at the end of 2011 and, while it has retained its classy interior, the new regime has decided to impose its own personality â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with varied levels of success. While the burgers of old will be missed by many, the tables and chairs once required by diners have been replaced by inviting armchairs and sumptuous Chesterfield

sofas. In place of the once extensive cocktail list there is only a bare minimum of mixtures, although those that have survived the transition are still done well. Perhaps the most exciting new direction is the promise to bring in some of the capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top DJs on Saturdays, instigating Sunday sessions and even bringing in live acts of considerable acclaim â&#x20AC;&#x201C; such as King Creosote. It may well be worth keeping an ear to the ground. + Imperious seating - Still feels like a work in progress

Nobles Bar

44a Constitution Street, Leith, Leith, EH6 6RS (Map 5: D4, 27) 0131 629 7215, noblesbarleith.co.uk | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; 10pm. [Bar open: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun 11amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am.] HW ÂŁ13.80; Kids. ÂŁ12 (lunch) / ÂŁ12 (dinner)

Nobles is fast becoming one of the most popular bars in Leith. With its large, colourful stained-glass windows and original Victorian features lovingly restored this is a classic pub of the highest quality. This attention to detail extends to the food menu, where familiar favourites like fish and chips and beef Wellington set the tone. All ingredients are locally sourced and expertly used, making it perhaps the best place for pub grub in the area. Beer drinkers are well catered for, with an impressive variety of ales and lagers available. Staff are quick to encourage the try-before-youbuy option, allowing patrons to sample from the considered selection, which sees Scottish breweries particularly well represented. With a wine list that is equally well-devised it is no surprise that Nobles is kept busy with discerning and pleasant locals. + Excellent beer selection - Limited vegetarian food

North Bridge Brasserie

20 North Bridge, Old Town, EH1 1YT See Bistros & Brasseries

The Old Bell

233 Causewayside, Southside, EH9 1PH (Map 3: H4, 65) 0131 668 2868, oldbelledinburgh.co.uk | Sunâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Thu noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;9pm; Fri/Sat noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;7.30pm. [Bar open: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Thu 11amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;12.30am; Fri/Sat noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1am; Sun 12.30pmâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;midnight.] ÂŁ11 (dinner)

The Causewayside stalwart is a popular spot with Southside drinkers who know their stuff. This is a place with character in abundance, with walls sporting original wood-carved panels and a carillon of bells hanging from the ceiling. Low-lit lamps and artefacts of a gentler age sit somewhat incongruously alongside a clutch of plasma screens catering for sports fans, but the soothing and amiable atmosphere of the place endures, fostered by lovely and exceedingly obliging staff determined to do their best by the customer. The food is decent and plentiful: nachos are a tasty and filling option for a starter, and the leek and potato soup is smooth and deliciously salty â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a perfect accompaniment to a pint of one of the selection of well-chosen real ales. Drink in the silence with a book in one of the dim corners, or join in the quiz on Sunday and Monday evenings. An old-fashioned classic that has weathered many a season, and well worth a visit. + Real ales and hearthstone tales - Too many burgers on the menu

The Orchard

1/2 Howard Place, Canonmills, New Town, EH3 5JZ (Map 1: C1, 1) 0131 550 0850, theorchardbar.co.uk | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;8.30pm. [Bar open: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Tue 11amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;11pm; Wed/Thu, Fri/Sat 11amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;

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In association with

Edinburgh 1am; Sun 12.30–11pm.] LC; Veg; HW £12.95; Kids. £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

A bar with a sense of refinement in keeping with the area around it, the Orchard is a wood-panelled old man’s boozer recast as an elegant bar and restaurant in light pastel tones. It’s been around for a few years now but it doesn’t feel tired, and the high pub windows give it a bright and airy aspect at lunchtime. Children are welcome in the snug back room, where diners are served an elegant if slightly overambitious menu consisting of starters including a heavy haggis fritter with spiced apple chutney and a take on Martin Wishart’s smoked salmon with a rather firm and indelicate Parmesan tuille alongside sharply flavoured but slightly overchilled wasabi sorbet. Mains including a steak and merlot pie and a twice-baked goat’s cheese soufflé are less bold but all the more rewarding for it. + A good-looking, upmarket local - The menu choices occasionally get a little overexcited

Palm Court

The Balmoral Hotel, 1 Princes Street, New Town, EH2 2EQ See Cafés

The Parlour Bar

142 Duke Street, Leith, EH6 8HR (Map 5: D5, off) 0131 555 3848, theparlouredinburgh.com | Tue–Sun 5pm–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu noon– midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am; Sun 12:30pm–midnight.] Veg; HW £14.95; Kids (until 6pm).

Tucked away at the bottom of Easter Road beside Leith Links, the Parlour has been a word-of-mouth hit, building up a growing band of regulars. Well equipped with home comforts, such as a roaring coal fire, comfy sofas and stacks of books and board games, the Parlour has an all-welcome policy (dogs and kids included). During the day the loose-leaf Suki teas and freshly ground coffees are popular and create an unusually relaxed atmosphere for a bar – a place you could feel entirely comfortable popping in alone to read. In the past year the kitchen has been leased to Spanish chef Luis Letelier, meaning drinkers can accompany their drink of choice with some seriously good tapas. Classics such as patatas bravas and Spanish omelette share the menu with inventive salads and spicy meat dishes cooked to standards that would not be out of place at a highquality Spanish restaurant. + Affordable tapas - Off the beaten track

The Pear Tree House

34 West Nicolson Street, Southside, EH8 9DD (Map 2: E5, 72) 0131 667 7533, peartree-house.co.uk | [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11am–11.45pm; Fri/Sat 11am–12.45am; Sun 12.30–11.45pm.] HW £13.55; Kids.

The grande dame of the Southside drinking scene has been standing proud on the spot since 1749, and 2012 sees the thirtieth anniversary of its current incarnation. The Pear Tree’s justifiably famed selling point is the large walled beer garden, providing a jolly place to pass a summer’s afternoon sipping gin and tonic during Edinburgh’s rare spates of clement weather. The pub itself is perhaps more average (brass, wood and dark leather sofas surround the central bar and rather incongruous televisions broadcast inevitable sports or music videos in the corners) although it doesn’t lack charm. There’s no kitchen, although bar snacks are available, and while drinks are certainly on the pricey side considering the student-heavy location,

The Brass Monkey (page 21): now with two branches in town boasting big screens, quirky décor and loyal locals

a fair rolling selection of guest ales and a popular Monday-night quiz make this an auspicious spot for an evening’s laidback conversation. + Curling up by the fire on the lovely leather sofas - Drinks are on the pricey side

Queen’s Arms

49 Frederick Street, New Town, EH2 1EP (Map 1: C5, 75) 0131 225 1045, queensarmsedinburgh.com | Mon–Sat 11am–9pm; Sun 12.30–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–1am; Sun 12.30pm– 1am.] Veg; HW £13.95. £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Dark but far from dingy, with walls lined with pictures of Scotland’s most famous female monarch and her beruffed contemporaries, this basement boozer manages to create a cosy vibe. Indeed, given its eccentricities – such as a well-stocked corner library, wine-glass chandeliers and its assortment of nooks and crannies – it is perhaps surprising that it is both recently refurbished and part of a small chain of pubs. Food-wise there’s a decent, if not extensive, range of seasonal favourites where the likes of Isle of Skye mussels cooked with cider and pancetta and haddock in an impeccably crunchy batter surpass the expected pub-grub standard. Another surprise is the well-formed cocktail list, lifting this city-centre pub well out of the ordinary league. + Tempting food menu - Hard to ignore TV screens in the corners

Red Squirrel

21 Lothian Road, West End, EH1 2DJ (Map 4: D2, 60) 0131 229 9933, fullerthomson.com | Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu 9am– midnight; Fri/Sat 9am–1am.] Veg; HW £12.75. £10 (set lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

Having struck upon a winning formula of great beers and gourmet burgers

with Holyrood 9A, it’s unsurprising to see owners Fuller Thomson attempt to replicate that success across town. While Red Squirrel lacks some of its sister venue’s subdued charm, it’s certainly been a boon for the continuing rehabilitation of Lothian Road. The chequerboard floor, leather banquettes and Viennese café chairs make for amiable surroundings and there’s an admirable selection of Scottish and international craft beers on tap (the line-up changes frequently, so rely on the blackboards rather than the printed menu). A medley of standard pub fare is available, but it’s the chunky burgers in sourdough buns that are the main draw. The eponymous ‘Red Squirrel’ (with beer mustard and Hereford Hop, a semi-hard cheese rolled in toasted hops) is deliciously sour and tangy, while the ‘Red Hot’ contains enough spicy sauce and jalapeños to cause a minor nuclear incident. + Exploring their beer menu with 1/3 pint tasters for just £1 - Can get ridiculously busy before and after gigs at the HMV Picture House

Rick’s

55a Frederick Street, New Town, EH2 1LH See Bistros & Brasseries

The Roseleaf

23–24 Sandport Place, Leith, EH6 6EW (Map 5: C3, 22) 0131 476 5268, roseleaf. co.uk | Mon–Sun 10am–9.45pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 10am–1am.] Veg; HW £14; Kids; Wh; T/A. £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

At Leith’s Roseleaf bar the cocktails are served in teapots in the style of 1920s American speakeasies. Flock wallpaper adorns the walls and the window sills are cluttered with vintage trinkets such as typewriters, old photographs and board games, giving the bar a charmingly homely feel. You would be forgiven for mistaking these details for a case of style (or quirk) over substance, but

the Roseleaf’s impressive seasonal food menu will quickly dispel any assumptions. The considered mixture of pub-grub favourites is cooked with fresh, local ingredients and a genuine sense of what goes well together. A real talent for cookery shines through in the menu’s finer points, with often side-lined details such as salads, soups and burger buns (all the bread is baked fresh on the premises) proving as well-devised as the main courses they accompany. + Freshly baked bread - Quirky décor might not be to everyone’s taste

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list.co.uk

Edinburgh The Royal Oak

1 Infirmary Street, Old Town, EH1 1LT (Map 2: D4, 91) 0131 557 2976, royal-oakfolk.com | Bar open: Mon–Sat 11.30am– 2am; Sun 3pm–2am. ; Kids.

An honest, frill-free hub for local Scottish folk music, the Royal Oak represents Edinburgh’s ever-diminishing traditional face, stripped of canned bagpipes, faux chandeliers and obscure cocktail ingredients – in fact, any cocktail ingredients. This is an ale and spirits pub, with just three, single-portion sized wines on offer. The luxury lies in a 35-year-old legacy of unpretentious commitment to live folk music, mostly open-mike, every night. You’ll not get through the door without being absorbed into a conversation, and if you bring an acoustic guitar and a good tune with you, so much the better. The only time you’ll not be able to get right into the thick of things is during the Edinburgh Festival, when more formal concerts run every night. Both the public bar and bookable downstairs gig space are pretty small with limited seating, and décor that would make any sort of chandelier feel very out of place. + Unguardedly, universally friendly - Wine lovers will need to broaden their drinking horizons

The Rutland Bar

1–3 Rutland Street, West End, EH1 2AE (Map 4: C2, 16) 0131 229 3402, therutlandhotel.com | Mon–Sun 8am– 10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 8am–1am.] HW £15; Kids (until 6pm); Wh. £10 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Commanding a prime location at the end of Princes Street with great views of Edinburgh Castle, the Rutland Bar is, rather unsurprisingly, a popular

spot, particularly with tourists. Quality cocktails, a considered drinks list and lavish, high-spec surroundings (with more than a hint of baroque about them) keep those with disposable income in their pocket and a penchant for glitz coming back too. The bar shares a food menu with Kyloe steak restaurant above, which is a treat for meat-lovers, sporting a range of Aberdeen Angus cuts and all manner of game, poultry and seafood. In the evenings, most people tend to head upstairs to the first floor grill to dine, leaving the bar – which deals mostly in breakfast (complete with Loch Fyne kippers), lunch and light bites – largely occupied by drinkers instead. + A prime location - Main food action is upstairs

Ryan’s Bar

2–4 Hope Street, West End, EH2 4DB (Map 1: A6, 47) 0131 226 6669, ryansbaredinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Thu 10am–10pm; Fri 10am–10.30pm; Sat 9am–10.30pm; Sun 9am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 10am–midnight; Fri 10am–1am; Sat 9am–1am; Sun 9am– midnight.] Veg; Kids; Wh. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Straddling a corner a few metres from Princes Street’s West End, Ryan’s Bar enjoys a prime location. So, it’s little wonder that it attracts a clutch of regulars and is also a haven for tourists. Pictures of old Edinburgh hang on the walls of the upstairs bar, which boasts an intricately decorated ceiling. There’s now a separate restaurant in the basement area majoring in surf and turf (see review in Scottish section), though bar food is served in the main bar, while coffee and snacks are a popular option for the outdoor tables. Look out for local ales from breweries

OPEN 7 DAYS FRESHLY PREPARED, WHOLESOME MENU

Vegetarian and Vegan options, food served all day until 10pm. Great selection of draught and bottled beers, real ale, wines by the glass, malt whiskies. Home of Edinburgh’s most popular (and trickiest) Film Quiz on the second Sunday of the month from 9pm.

such as Harviestoun, while there’s live music in the bar on Thursday evenings. + A bar with prominence and character - Rarely a haven of peace and quiet

Ryan’s Cellar Restaurant

2–4 Hope Street, West End, EH2 4DB See Scottish

The Saint

44 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge, EH3 5AL (Map 1: B3, 29) 0131 225 9009, thesaintedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Thu 5–10pm; Fri noon–3pm, 5–10pm; Sat/ Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 5pm–midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am; Sun noon–midnight.] Veg; HW £13.50; Kids (after 5pm). £14 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

The Saint is something of a maverick on the Edinburgh bar scene. Not necessarily the best place for a post-work pint of heavy, the elegant interior gives off more of a restaurant vibe than the air of a traditional boozer, although the large fire and comfy seating ensure that it maintains a laid-back atmosphere. And any sacrifice it makes on the conventional pub front it more than makes up for with its extensive wine list and quality food. Indeed, although the menu tends to move with the seasons, you can look forward to the likes of smoked mackerel and horseradish risotto, roasted hake with chorizo, and raspberry mille-feuille, all beautifully presented, bursting with flavour and making you wonder if all the options are equally imperious. This Saint’s halo is certainly sparkling. + Consistently excellent food - Slightly sterile interior

The Salisbury Arms

58 Dalkeith Road, Southside, EH16 5AD (Map 3: I3, off) 0131 667 4518, thesalisburyarmsedinburgh.co.uk | Mon– Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu 11am–11pm ; Fri/Sat 11am–midnight.] Pre; HW £11.95; Kids; Wh. £9 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Opened in June 2011, the Salisbury Arms was the first Scottish venture of the Village Pub and Kitchen group (their takeover of the Sheep’s Heid being a close second). With 39 establishments across the UK their ethos is to keep an independent spirit in each, offer a selection of real ales and good pub grub in a spruced-up interior. The menu is enormous – dive into starters, sharing platters (cheese, fish or house sampler), main courses ‘from the land’, ‘from the sea’ and ‘from the garden’. Add sandwiches, a good selection of desserts and daily specials and it may take a while to make a decision. Local diners and residents of the many guesthouses in the vicinity can tuck into slow-roasted pork belly with red cabbage and onion rings (served as a starter or main course), beef rib, mushroom and Guinness pie, burgers, fish and chips and a couple of vegetarian options. With Sunday platters, fish Fridays, grill Thursdays and Ladies Night they certainly can’t be accused of a lack of variety. + Lots of choice - Views of a very busy main road

Shebeen 88 Lothian Road Edinburgh, EH3 9BZ

www.ﬁlmhousecinema.com

FREE WiFi

3 Dock Place, Leith, Leith, EH6 6LU (Map 5: C3, 10) , shebeenbar.co.uk | [Bar open: Mon 5pm–1am; Tue–Sat noon–1am; Sun 12.30am–1am.] HW £13.95; Wh.

This themed watering-hole brings a sundrenched slice of South Africa to the shores of Leith. The interior is a slick re-imaging of a bustling hothouse, once the beating heart of local townships throughout the African continent. Leathery fabrics, animal skins and rustic polished woodwork keep the décor

relevant. An imported drinks selection pushes Klipdrift brandy, Castle lager and 7 Giraffes ale to the forefront and ensures that Shebeen sticks to its roots. The bar is well-equipped to show major sporting events, with screens set up in a way that means drinkers who are uninterested in the match need not be bothered. Recent forays towards a full South African food menu have been promising. ‘Braai’ nights allow customers to pick and choose from an all-you-can-eat selection of barbequed boerewors, chicken, lamb chops, mielie pap and salads for just £12.95. They have proven so popular they look set to become a Sunday-night feature. + Creative South African cocktail selection - Has yet to build up a band of regulars

The Sheep Heid Inn

43–45 The Causeway, Duddingston, Southside, EH15 3QA, 0131 661 7974, thesheepheidedinburgh.co.uk | Mon– Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–10pm; Sun 12.30–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11am–11pm; Fri/Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30–11pm.] HW £12.95; Kids; Wh. £20 (lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Stranded on the shores of Duddingston Loch, the venerable Sheep Heid Inn (which holds a solid claim to be the oldest pub in Scotland) is a well-known spot long popular with footsore travellers escaping from the city. Entering the whitewashed stone building the eye falls upon dark varnished wood, stuffed beasts of yesteryear and cosy leather armchairs. Perhaps unfortunately, a recent refit has seen the dining area extended and remodelled along standardised Scottish gastropub lines. Gone are the bar games of yesteryear; gone are the hallmarks of the real local; gone in some measure is the charm of the place. Having weathered nigh on seven centuries on the spot, this august establishment has become a study in beige. The food, however, remains top-notch: the steak is superlative and a braised beef rib pie drips with real flavour. It’s just a shame the place is no longer so authentic. + Sitting in the sun in the sheltered beer patio - No more dominoes

The Ship on the Shore

24–26 The Shore, Leith, EH6 6QN See Fish

The Shore Bar & Restaurant 3 The Shore, Leith, EH6 6QW See Bistros & Brasseries

Sofi’s

65 Henderson Street, Leith, EH6 6ED (Map 5: C4, 33) 0131 555 7019, bodabar. com | Mon–Fri noon–midnight; Sat noon–midnight; Sun 1pm–midnight. [Bar open: Mon–Fri noon–1am; Sat noon– 1am; Sun 1pm–1am.] Veg; HW £13.10; Kids (after 5pm). £10 (lunch)

One quarter of a small chain of Leith pubs (which also includes Joseph Pearce’s, Boda Bar and Victoria), Sofi’s has much in common with its nearby siblings. A particular similarity can be found in the bar’s quirky detailing, with carefully mismatched furniture adding to the homely feel. A limited cocktail menu emphasises a confidence that is more than justified. Individual twists on classic recipes are well-placed and effective. The food menu is presented tied with ribbons inside the dusty pages of classic hardbacks, and is more the line of bar snacks than a hearty feast. Pub-grub standards such as toasties and nachos fight for attention alongside some more intriguing options, such as smorgasbord platters of cheeses and cured meats.

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BARS & PUBS

In association with

Edinburgh Playing host to regular events – knitting groups, bake nights and clothes swaps – has helped Sofi’s build up a real sense of community that keeps locals coming back for more. + Real sense of community spirit - Limited menu

Treacle is the kind of place which tries hard to be loved by everyone, and does a pretty good job of succeeding. Brightly decorated (one wall is a cartoon mural) but moodily lit in the evening, their magpie food menu works surprisingly well for one so clearly determined to do everything. Already bursting with sandwiches, burgers, salads and classics like steak pie or fish and chips, highlights include an impressive starter of tender chicken breast in a flaky coconut batter and sharp lime and chilli king prawn noodles with cashew nuts served streetstyle in a box with chopsticks. Naturally the dessert list features a treacle tart, while the signature cocktail list is long and enticing. + Juggles lots of plates and keeps them in the air - A menu this full makes deciding on dinner difficult

The Stand

5 York Place, New Town, EH1 3EB See Arts Venues

The Street

2 Picardy Place, New Town, EH1 3JT (Map 1: F4, 140) 0131 556 4272, thestreetbar.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–9pm; Sun 12.30–9pm (bar snacks, Sun–Thu 9pm–midnight). [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–1am; Sun 12.30pm–1am.] LC; HW £12.95; Kids. £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

With its Coronation Street-aping sign, its dual-aspect floor to ceiling windows and the big iron ramp which stretches almost the length of the bar and back, the Street is a landmark pub in the Broughton/Picardy Place area. Its main business is a more refined weekend party crowd, particularly amidst the gay and lesbian clubbers who’ve long made this area their hangout, and DJs play from Thursday to Sunday evenings. There’s also a bustling heated smoking area out the front and a Wednesday night quiz hosted by co-owner Trendy Wendy, but the food – including overdone chicken satay skewers with a gloopy peanut sauce and an unremarkable chilli – isn’t the main draw. On the plus side, much of it is available until midnight. + A bar that knows how to have a good time - The food is not a highlight

Sygn

15 Charlotte Lane, West End, EH2 4QZ (Map 4: C1, 3) 0131 225 6060, sygn.co.uk | Sun–Wed 10am–11pm; Thu–Sat 10am– 11pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 10am–1am.] LC; HW £15.50. £16 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Sygn’s geometric print wallpaper, grey fabrics and beech tables create a retrochic vibe that’s simple yet elegant, proving to George Street’s style bars that you don’t need to be ostentatious to be cool. And if you can resist the temptation to go home and redecorate, then the cocktails are certainly worth hanging around for. Long-forgotten recipes (Pink Lady) are resurrected, old favourites are re-enlivened (Kichee Caipirinha) and classics (Mai Tai) are revered. The food’s not bad either – served up in and on an array of wooden boards, mini pails and Kilner jars. There’s an emphasis on snacking and sharing, although larger dishes are available if you’re after something more substantial. Sea bass is fresh, firm and fleshy, although the accompanying tomato, chilli and caper dressing lacks a little punch. Sygn also make a decent fist of the gourmet burger, the pork and chorizo version being a particular highlight. + An imaginative cocktail list you’ll want to drink your way through - Fancy plates and platters aren’t always practical to eat off

Teuchters

26 William Street, West End, EH3 7NH (Map 4: B2, 15) 0131 225 2973, aroomin. co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5.30– 10pm; Fri noon–2.30pm; Sat noon–4pm; Sun noon–4pm, 5.30–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11–1am.] See entry in Scottish section for Room in the West End.

✱

Teuchters Landing

1c Dock Place, Leith, EH6 6LU (Map 5: C3, 11) 0131 554 7427, aroomin.co.uk |

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Under the Stairs

3a Merchant Street, Old Town, EH1 2QD (Map 2: C4, 50) 0131 466 8550, underthestairs.org | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Snacks: Mon–Sun 10pm– midnight]. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon– 1am, Sun noon–midnight.] Veg; HW £15.50; Kids. £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Divino Enoteca (page 23): underground wine quaffing in the Old Town Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon– Sun 11am–1pm.] HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £12.50 (lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

The pub sister of the A Room In . . . chain of restaurants, both Teuchters are directly connected to the Leith and West End branches of the restaurant. As if offering a frankly stunning range of alcohol (over 90 single malts in Teuchters; a wealth of cutting-edge bottled and draft beers at Teuchters Landing) wasn’t enough, both pubs also do a surprisingly strong range of food in their own right. Although Teuchters’ menu is pared down because of limited kitchen space, their real calling is as one of the best places in Edinburgh to watch rugby and major Scottish football games on the big screen. Teuchters Landing is best for food, though, with their signature mug menu – large mugs of hearty, restaurant-quality lamb stew, macaroni and cheese or haggis stovies – served until 10pm. Big breakfasts as well as the venison and pork ‘Teuchter dog’, Loch Creran oysters and Shetland mussels are available in the bar or on the jetty seating area outside. + Pub food which goes beyond the call of duty - Teuchters gets very busy for big sports events

Tigerlily

125 George Street, New Town, EH2 4JN See Bistros & Brasseries

Tonic

34 North Castle Street, New Town, EH2 3BN (Map 1: B5, 60) 0131 225 6431, bartonic.co.uk | Wed–Sun noon–9pm. [Bar open: Mon/Tue 4pm–1am; Wed–Sun noon–1am.] Veg; HW £13; Kids (after 5pm). £19 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

While first and foremost a cocktail bar, Tonic also manages to produce a small but appetising menu. And although the surroundings might bear more than a passing resemblance to a Polish casino, the food is both tasty and good value. Succulent prawn tempura arrives in a

crispy batter while the burgers benefit from being cooked over charcoal, giving them a genuine barbeque taste. Meanwhile the cocktail list is also impressive, if somewhat saccharine. The Papa Doble – apparently Hemingway’s weapon of choice – which is served inside a brown paper bag, would be good even without its novelty wrapping, while the Earl of Brockley is also well worth a try. + Top-notch burgers - Truly cringeworthy copywriting on the cocktail list

The Tourmalet

25 Buchanan Street, Leith, EH6 8SQ (Map 1: H2, off) | Bar open: Mon–Fri 4pm–1am; Sat/Sun 1pm–1am. HW £12.

On a corner a few yards off Leith Walk, the Tourmalet is less renowned than some of the area’s more well-known pubs, but that doesn’t hinder it from being one of the finest locals in Leith. Established in 2009 by Murray McKean, the founder and former owner of the Pond, it specialises in an extensive range of bottled German beers and shows ‘minority sports’ on the pull-down screen – mainly cycling (the bar is named after a stretch of the Tour de France), Formula 1 and cricket. It’s predominantly a place to hang out and make new friends, though. The barman doesn’t even give out the phone number, because ‘why call a pub when you can go to a pub?’ + A pub with real personality - Try the chilli eggs if you dare

Traverse Bar Café

10 Cambridge Street, West End, EH1 2ED See Arts Venues

Treacle Bar and Kitchen

39–41 Broughton Street, New Town, EH1 3JU (Map 1: F3, 138) 0131 557 0627, treacleedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sun 10am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 10am–1am.] Veg; HW £13.95; Kids. £13.50 (lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

While many basement bars are decidedly gloomy, this bastion of Bohemia succeeds in making its underground nature a strength – this is the sort of subterranean den where you can imagine avant-garde theatre being scripted by the hipsters who grace its mismatched tables and rickety chairs. So saying, this is not a place that takes itself too seriously and it is also willing to welcome any bumbling squares who venture down the steps – after an exquisitely mixed Chilli Palmer, you may even surprise yourself with a new-found love of Proust. The food is also fairly inspirational, although not consistently so. The John Dory with sun-blushed tomatoes and a lemon and caper dressing is a particular highlight, while the stem ginger poached pear with crème caramel ice-cream will round off any evening with aplomb. + Lively, unorthodox menu and setting - An element of Russian roulette in choosing your chair

TIPList FOR FOOD • Bar Missoni Chic and classy bar snacks 19 • The Basement Bar and Restaurant Eclectic, enjoyable Mexicana 20 • The Espy Great grub on Porty prom 24 • King’s Wark Leith’s ﬁrst and foremost dining pub 27 • Lebowskis Local food for dudes

• Nobles Bar Classic pub, classic menu

• The Parlour Bar Take a tapas trip

• The Roseleaf A local doing it with love 29

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Underdogs

www.guiltylily.co.uk

104 Hanover Street, City Centre, EH2 1DR (Map 1: D5, 88) 0131 220 5155, amoredogs.co.uk/underdogs | Mon–Sun 5–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 4.30pm– midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am; Sun 1pm–1am.] Veg; HW £14.75; Kids.

Food Drink Music

284 84 Bonnington Road Leith, h Edinburgh, Edinburgh EH6 5BE

52 canoes

Tiki Den

www.52canoes-tikiden.com

e Children Welcom Free Wifi Dog friendly

Polynesian Food Great Cocktails World Wines-Real Ales

0131 226 4732 13-14 Melville Place Edinburgh, EH3 7PR

This latest addition to the capital’s canine cohorts might have the slight air of an old folks’ home but, if you intend to see out your days on a battered sofa surrounded by animals, this would be the place to do so in style – with a head full of cocktails, a belly full of bar snacks and nary a Nurse Ratchet in sight. Previously used as a storage space for its sister venues, it is now one of the most welcoming bars in this part of town, with a mean line in cocktails, a fridge filled with unusual bottled beers and some exceptional snacks, such as the miniature burgers – known as sliders – which are cooked in the kitchen of Amore Dogs. Its muted décor, mellow sounds and shabby-chic are also a pleasant escape from the raucous tones and lurid hews of so many of the joints in the George Street area. If only retirement proved to be so much fun. + Unique and unpretentious - No draught beer

Victoria

265 Leith Walk, Leith, EH6 8PD (Map 1: H2, off) 0131 555 1638, bodabar.com | [Bar open: Mon–Fri 2pm–1am; Sat noon–1am; Sun 1pm–midnight.] HW £13.10.

Like the other Swedish-run bars in Leith, Victoria is both refreshingly familiar and determined to assert its own individuality. Their drinks range is classy and well-chosen, including beers from at least thirty-five different countries and their own-brand Iduns cider. Events include a language café every Tuesday, live acoustic music every so often and irregular speed-dating singles nights. Any sense of gimmickry is nicely underplayed, though. With a childfriendly ethos during the day, a warm and moodily lit atmosphere at night, a well-stocked bar and very friendly service, all you need for a great local is right here. + Takeaway food from elsewhere is welcome – they’ll even provide plates and cutlery - Seats are sometimes at a premium on weekend nights

Villager

49–50 George IV Bridge, Old Town, EH1 1EJ (Map 2: C4, 57) 0131 226 2781, villagerbar.com | Mon–Sun noon–9.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–1am.] Veg; HW £13.95. £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

One of those versatile bars that often seems like a good idea for its perky cocktail list (a modernised one will be introduced very soon, retaining six old favourites and the same proactive attitude to decent ingredients), comfy sofas, and very convenient location. A new menu is in place, which sounds promising but can be inconsistent. Vegetable wontons are a good starter, and both a corn fritter and three-bean burger are hearty but a touch claggy from a heavy hand with the flour. Puddings fare better, but can be confusingly unpredictable: wonderfully light, silky pannacotta comes topped with vibrant passion fruit jelly, but the promised coconut is almost impossible to detect. Similarly the chocolate pot is irresistible, but infused so lightly with mint its existence is debatable. + Even with missing flavours, puddings are top notch - Food glitches need ironing out

The Voodoo Rooms

19a West Register Street, New Town, EH2 2AA See Bistros & Brasseries

✱ The WestRoom

3 Melville Place, West End, EH3 7PR (Map 4: C1, 4) 0131 629 9868, thewestroom.co.uk | Mon–Fri 9am– 10pm; Sat/Sun 10am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Wed 8am–midnight; Thu/Fri 8am–1am; Sat 10am–1am; Sun 10am– midnight.] HW £16.50. £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Whether it’s a Bellini or a Bramble, a Martini or a Margarita, the folks at the WestRoom know their mixology. And like any good cocktail, the success of this small, oddly shaped bar is due to getting the blend of ingredients just right. Low lighting, teal walls and a back bar fashioned from old doors make for funky surroundings with a relaxed vibe, while the food is every bit as good as the drinks. Smoked haddock fishcakes, with a crisp exterior and creamy, smooth filling, come with a first-class hollandaise. Elsewhere, the menu features some playful updates on British classics: the fish finger sandwich is given a modern makeover, while gammon, egg and chips is tweaked with the addition of a duck egg and hunk of honey roast ham instead. Fish and chips are even served in a bag, complete with pickled onion and that good old Edinburgh delicacy, chippie sauce. + A trendy bar that doesn’t try too hard - Not really suitable for large groups

Whighams Wine Cellars

13 Hope Street, Charlotte Square, West End, EH2 4EL (Map 1: A6, 48) 0131 225 8674, whighams.com | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am; Sun 12.30pm–midnight.] HW £15.50. £10 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

For almost 30 years, stressed professionals have uncoiled at Whighams. At 6pm on Fridays the shadowy cellar’s nooks are jammed, the restaurant side is heaving and the bar stools are occupied by smart ladies gratefully cradling one of 40 wines by the glass. Come later when it thins out for a chance to enjoy the romantic booths and the extensive wine list. It is a very relaxing spot when it’s quieter, all candles and soft stone walls. The French-dominated wine menu offers no explanations, but staff are happy to recommend and supply tasters and there are many reasonably priced glasses. Food is surprisingly like pub grub – think fisherman’s or steak and ale pie followed by sticky toffee pudding – and details like undercooked fries and minimalist side salads are unsatisfying. Sea bass fillet with a fruity salsa is perfectly done, however, and an all-day £10 deal for two courses is good value. + Manages to be both stylish and soothing - Some of the food fails to live up to its surroundings

Whiski

119 High Street, Old Town, EH1 1SG (Map 2: D3, 98) 0131 556 3095, whiskibar.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat 11am–10.30pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu noon–1am; Fri–Sun 11am– 1am.] HW £15.95; Kids; Wh. £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

With its antlers, tartan and tongue-incheek name, this might seem at first glance like another tourist-centric setup. Instead, Whiski delivers a buzzy atmosphere, some fine food and a drinks list to satisfy the most specific of

whims. The (somewhat pricey) menu holds no major surprises – a good Cullen skink starter, a generous but frustratingly dry Whiski burger lifted by good bacon and a smoky whisky and onion chutney. Salmon with whisky and orange jus sticks to the spirited theme, and has a touch of the posher-than-pubgrub to it. Though the ‘craft bottlings’ are a good showcase for the excellent Thistly Cross and Innis & Gunn, it’s the almost endless whisky list that is really notable. Not content with listing over 250 single malts, they’ll also mix them into a score of classic and reinvented cocktails for those who prefer their drams with more than a dash of water. + A crowd pleaser in its location, drinks and food - Have another nip instead of pudding

Whiski Rooms

4, 6 & 7 North Bank Street, Old Town, EH1 2LP See Scottish

The White Horse

266 Canongate, Old Town, EH8 8AA (Map 2: E3, 109) 0131 557 3512 | Mon– Sun noon–9pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu noon–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–midnight.] HW £12.25; T/A. £6.95 (set lunch) / £10 (dinner)

With sofas that absorb you, gently lit stone walls and soft-voiced classics on the stereo, this pub has one of the most chilled-out back rooms possible. It’s not surprising, then, that it’s used by an eclectic mix of communities, from tarot reading to film or open mic nights, festival comedy and regular DJ slots. If that makes it sound crowded, it isn’t – there’s plenty of sofa to go round, and plenty of nights when you can just enjoy the relatively small but well-chosen set of drinks. Look out for Spencerfield’s new raspberry gin, Monkey Shoulder whisky or a fruity range of Rekorderlig ciders. On the food side, the giveaway ping of a microwave makes Simple Simon’s excellent pies your best bet; pub staples are available, but don’t exactly shine. + Enjoying a great big flapjack in a great big sofa - £1.50 for lime and soda will not impress the designated driver

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Edinburgh

BISTROS & BRASSERIES If variety is the spice of life then bistros and brasseries are the garam masala of the Edinburgh dining scene, with everything from the simple, laidback neighbourhood hangout to the full-on five-star dining temple. Whether you’re simply popping out to lunch, pushing the boat out or planning a party, an emphasis on seasonal, local food and nose-to-tail eating means top nosh that’s in tune with the times. Although all these restaurants have their own individual charms, most share a focus on approachable and friendly service – while the best of the best stand out by showing exemplary skill in the kitchen and bags of personality front of house. Reviewers: Frances Bentley, Margaret Craik, Jo Laidlaw, Alastair Martin, Yana Thandrayan

A Room in Leith

1c Dock Place, Leith, EH6 6LU See Scottish

A Room in the Town

18 Howe Street, New Town, EH3 6TG See Scottish

A Room in the West End

26 William Street, West End, EH3 7NH See Scottish

Agua

Apex City Hotel, 61 Grassmarket, Old Town, EH1 2JF (Map 2: B4, 49) 0131 243 3456, apexhotels.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–9.45pm; Sat/Sun noon–9.45pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–11pm.] HW £16.60; Kids; Wh. £19.95 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

Agua, located on the ground floor of the Apex City Hotel, may not be able to compete with the peerless view of Edinburgh Castle offered by its sister restaurant, Heights, in the Apex International, a few doors down. But Agua does offer a well-considered and affordable menu with a determined focus on Scottish, seasonal ingredients. The theme has recently expanded beyond fish and seafood to include meat and vegetarian options, and, while the menu is fairly small, there’s enough variety

to suit a range of tastes. A starter of confit duck, pistachio and raisin terrine has a lovely coarse texture, its flavour enlivened by kumquat chutney and served on toasted sourdough, while hot smoked salmon is nicely offset by pickled cucumber and a bitter lemon compote. For mains there’s a juicy rump of lamb, while meaty baked coley goes well with a side order of crunchy honey root vegetables. While Agua has that transitory, rather generic hotel restaurant feel to it, the quality of the food – including a very impressive range of gluten-free options – lifts it somewhat above the run of the mill. + Good selection for people with dietary intolerances - Décor is smart but a little soulless

Amicus Apple

17 Frederick Street, New Town, EH2 2EY See Bars & Pubs

The Apartment Bistro

7–13 Barclay Place, Southside, EH10 4HW (Map 3: B2, 19) 0131 228 6456 | Mon–Fri 5–11pm; Sat/Sun noon–11pm. Veg; Pre; HW £14.90; Kids; Wh. £20 (dinner)

The Apartment has been going strong since 1999, and its 2010 refurb seems to have rebooted things nicely. Here, ‘modern bistro’ means seasonality and an evolving menu, as evidenced by a neat little daily set menu, plus specials. A starter of pork terrine is well put together, the hot garlicky toast, crisp chunks of carrot and soft, yielding pork ticking both taste and texture boxes. Lamb rump is on the button, and the chicken breast is beautifully tender, but a little more kick from the chorizo would better balance the sweet root mash. Interesting veggies are a bit of a theme, with vegetarian choices like wild mushroom and white truffle gnocchi with Jerusalem artichokes showing that bistro food isn’t all about steak-frîtes (although skirt steak with garlic fries is also pretty good). An interesting – if slightly impenetrable – wine list offers many available in 500ml carafes. Add to that the set menu and buzzy atmosphere and it’s entirely possible to dine out well here without breaking the bank – exactly what ‘modern bistro’ should be about, really. + Looks great, with a fantastic atmosphere - Tables for two are a little close together – and watch your head on the low lamps

B’est

16 Drummond Street, Old Town, EH8 9TX See French

✱

Bia Bistrot

19 Colinton Road, Southside, EH10 5DP (Map 3: A5, 32) 0131 452 8453, biabistrot. co.uk | Tue–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5–10pm. Closed Sun/Mon. Veg; Pre; HW £14; Kids. £9.50 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Porto & Fi on the Mound (page 41): a bistro to behold on the Mound

‘ I do the food and he does the booze and the money.’ It obviously works, because Roisin and Matthias Llorente’s unassuming little eatery in a run of shops near Morningside’s Holy Corner has won a Michelin mention and a following of locals who, if they don’t quite eat out of Roisin’s hand, trust her enough that daily specials fly and periodic wine-themed evenings are a sell-out. Roasted bone marrow with toasted sourdough? Yes, please. Lamb’s tongue with blue potatoes and crème fraîche? Bring it on (and how delicately pretty it is). Not that the less adventurous are left out: there are Orkney gold steaks simply cooked, and beautiful fish of the day like silver hake dressed with lemon and herb-infused olive oil. Classical training in kitchens round the

✱ HITLIST BISTROS & BRASSERIES ✱ Bia Bistrot Inspiration from the seasons and the soil, cooking from the heart and soul, Bia is the bistrot you’ll wish you had in your neighbourhood. ✱ First Coast A relaxed neighbourhood bistro with an adventurous menu, smart sourcing and great cooking. ✱ Hadrian’s Exemplary brasserie dining in the smart confines of an Edinburgh landmark that’s setting some high standards in food and service. ✱ Hellers Kitchen For breakfast, for dinner, for lunch, for tea. For home-made and friendly, this smart modern update of cosy neighbourhood favourite ticks every box. ✱ Home Simplicity and skill create great dishes, served with a touch of eccentricity. ✱ The Honours Glamorous, upmarket and ambitious, this glitzy Parisienne brasserie from Martin Wishart’s stable is a big hitter. ✱ Monteiths A Royal Mile restaurant that sidesteps the clichés and does traditional Scottish dining with style. ✱ Museum Brasserie Modern Med-inspired cooking from a new kid on the block that looks set to become an attraction in its own right. ✱ The Shore Beautiful cooking in a lovely, atmospheric old bar – the fish dishes are highly recommended. ✱ Spoon Like your front room, but with table service and much, much better food. Laid-back and charming. world coupled with a love for food rooted in the soil and the seasons are impressive credentials, and the food on the plates speaks eloquently for skill and sourcing. Some good local artwork apart, however, the surroundings are not so smart. The food is the focus here, and at great value prices. + Artisan sourcing, gold-standard cooking – a breath of fresh air in the city’s dining scene - Won’t suit interior design junkies The List Eating & Drinking Guide 33

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Bijou

2 Restalrig Road, Leith, EH6 8BN (Map 5: E5, off) 0131 538 0664, bijoubistro.co.uk | Mon–Sat 9am–2.30pm, 5–8.30pm; Sun 10am–2.30pm, 5–8.30pm. BYOB (£2.50); HW £14; Kids; T/A. £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Since coming under new management in late 2011 this small bistro on the edge of Leith Links has been spruced up and dusted down. The atmosphere is casual and the welcome friendly, and as for the food, it puts many pricier city centre places to shame. The short menu changes often and most of the dishes are available as starters, ‘medium sized’ or main courses. As well as three sizes there are just three prices for food, which keeps things simple. From the open kitchen comes smoky home-made fishcakes and gnocchi coated in a creamy sauce flavoured generously with meaty wild mushrooms. There are spicy Crombie’s sausages on a near perfect bed of smooth mash potato, or moist pork belly nestled under a layer of crackling. The icecream is made on site in flavours such as peanut butter, lemon or raspberry. Bijou is also open for breakfast, making it a popular stopping-off point for people doing sporting activities on the Links. With regular storytelling evenings and plans for a quiz night it’s worth making the trip to this quiet part of Leith for an entertaining evening in a homely neighbourhood place. + Good food, reasonably priced - Neighbourhood location not so handy for some

Bisque Bar & Brasserie

Bruntsfield Hotel, 69 Bruntsfield Place, Southside, EH10 4HH (Map 3: B3, 22) 0131 622 8163, bisquebar.com | Sun– Thu 7am–9.30pm; Fri/Sat 7am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–1am; Sun 12.30pm–1am.] HW £16.50; Kids; Wh. £9.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

WHISKI ROOMS

Bar – Restaurant – Bistro – Whisky shop -Fresh local Scottish food served all day -Extensive Wine, Local Beers, Cocktail & Whisky List -Ardbeg Embassy status -Daily Whisky Tastings and Events s B Wh i s u y k WHISKI Rooms a n d y, G i f t s Ham 4-7 North Bank Street (the Mound), O n l i p e rs Edinburgh, EH1 2LP www ne: .w h i sk Reservations: 0131-225-7224 Book Online: www.whiskirooms.com

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Bisque is the restaurant for the Bruntsfield Hotel, next to Bruntsfield Links, found down a set of steps from the car park. Unassuming at the front, the focus inside is on a wall of glass leading into an unusually large, paved, afternoon sun-trap garden. While a good proportion of their diners are hotel guests, it doesn’t rely on that captive audience for success – a childfriendly outlook makes it particularly popular with local families on Sunday afternoons. If you were staying here, you’d be satisfied with your decision to eat in on at least one night. The menu doesn’t break any culinary moulds, but fresh ingredients are generally well cooked. The eponymous shellfish bisque is far too large for a starter, but is based on good fish stock and would make a satiating lunch. Duck confit drops off the bone into a rich, cherry-studded sauce, though dauphinoise potatoes lack both garlic and pepper. The delicate flavour of a generous stack of sea bass fillets is slightly overwhelmed by tomato and olive sauce, but this is a minor gripe. + A good wine list from independent vintners Woodwinters, with lots of bythe-glass choice - Chocolate mousse done wrong

Bistro at l’Institut Francais d’Ecosse 13 Randolph Crescent, EH3 7TT See French

Blonde

75 St Leonard’s Street, Southside, EH8 9QR (Map 3: H1, 48) 0131 668 2917, blonderestaurant.co.uk | Mon 6–9pm; Tue–Sat noon–2.30pm, 6–10pm; Sun noon–2.30pm, 6–9pm. Veg; HW £12.50; Kids; Wh. £12.90 (set

lunch) / £17.50 (dinner)

Relaxed neighbourhood bistro Blonde occupies a quiet spot on St Leonard’s, not far from the hustle and bustle of student-filled South Clerk Street. Its two unassuming dining spaces are clean, minimal and simply furnished, with blonde wood and large windows giving a light and airy feel. An approachable mix of modern bistro dishes embraces globetrotting influences plus some emphasis on local Scottish ingredients. Expect to find starters such as mussels with coconut, lime & basil sitting alongside Stornoway black pudding and pork belly croquettes. Home-cured gravadlax, served with leaves and aioli, is well seasoned while deep fried smoked mackerel fish-cakes arrive hot and crisp, if a little gluey in the centre. To follow, seabass with crab and fettucine is generously portioned but the overall effect is cloying and the pasta is overcooked. Things look up with desserts, and an espresso crème brûlée comes with the requisite tooth-shattering golden crust and a good coffee kick below. A short but eloquent wine list, warm service and a pocket-friendly set lunch deal add up to make Blonde a good local spot for casual dining. + Relaxed, neighbourhood vibes - Some dishes work better than others

The Blue Goose Country Pub 27 Lanark Road, EH14 1TG See Bars & Pubs

Blue Moon Café

1 Barony Street, New Town, EH3 6PD (Map 1: F3, 127) 0131 556 2788, bluemooncafe.co.uk | Mon–Fri 11am– 10pm; Sat/Sun 10am–10pm. HW £11.95; Kids. £8 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

On a corner off Broughton Street this gay-friendly diner serves up simple hearty food at reasonable prices. Lunch is a particularly good deal with main courses all under £6. Daily specials include a couple of soups, which might be a velvety smooth leek and potato well seasoned and finished off with cream, or a rustic lentil soup. Of the starters a cod and chorizo fishcake is a tasty combination made with big chunks of fish that aren’t overwhelmed by the paprika flavour. The menu sticks to familiar favourites such as pies, curries and mince dishes. The basics are cooked well, with lamb shanks falling off the bone and served with a dark rich gravy. The home-made burgers go beyond beef – there’s a lamb burger made with herb scented meat and stuffed with pine nuts, plus a chicken and a vegetarian option. To finish try sticky banoffee pie covered in mounds of cream, or a decadent New York cheesecake. The relaxed atmosphere and affable staff make this a great place to unwind after a day in town. + Friendly atmosphere - Could do with more vegetarian options

Bread Street Brasserie

The Point Hotel, 34–36 Bread Street, West End, EH3 9AF (Map 4: D3, 55) 0131 221 5558, pointhoteledinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–2pm, 5–10pm. [Bar food served noon–10pm]. [Bar open: Mon– Sun noon–1am.] Pre; HW £17.50; Kids; Wh. £9.95 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

Located on the ground floor of the Point Hotel, also home to Monboddo Bar and the monthly top-floor Sky Bar, the Bread Street Brasserie is designed to reflect a classic French bistro, kitted out with smart wooden café chairs and polished floors. It’s a large space, which can seem a bit empty at quieter times of the week, but clever sectioning of the restaurant creates the illusion of intimacy. The grill section is the focus of

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Edinburgh noon–4am. Fri/Sat noon–5am.] HW £18; Kids; Wh. £8.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

To travel beyond the front desk of this neon-lit 1920s landmark you must first join Gala Casinos, surrender an ID, register your name and address and look into one of the many wall cameras for a photograph. Now free to roam, diners walk up the art deco staircase, past film stills of James Bond and glamorous femmes fatales to the white tablecloths and sparkling cutlery of the Charleston Restaurant, overhanging the gaming tables. The establishment boasts ‘a buzz and sense of decadence second to none’ and on busy nights you can watch the gamblers cheer a win or cradle their heads in despair. The à la carte and daily changing table d’hôte dinner menus include light mains of lobster, scallop, monkfish and seabass, and the flexible chef can rustle up a vegetable curry or stroganoff if necessary, but diners are dealt manly menus of crowns of beef and assiettes of lamb, and muscular oldschool puds. The canny casino knows how to play its patrons, engorging their appetites in gastronomy or gambling. After eating you may be tempted to have a flutter – or may have had enough chips in the restaurant already. + The rich slab of chicken liver pâté - Being too full to move

Diner 7

7 Commercial Street, Leith, EH6 6JA See North American

The Dogs

The Honours (page 38): the upmarket brasserie in Martin Wishart’s stable

the menu, with a variety of steaks which are locally sourced, carefully cooked and come with generously portioned chips and garnish. Imaginative pork dishes are another highlight, including delightful pulled pork and an excellent pig’s cheek dish. Service is slick, well organised and helpful. Desserts are not a high point, however, lacking variety and real enthusiasm. It seems that the Bread Street Brasserie is still trying to find its place in Edinburgh’s dining scene. Once it exploits its evident potential it looks set to be a real star. + Some excellent dishes showing real potential - But that potential is not quite realised yet

Browns Bar and Brasserie

131–133 George Street, New Town, EH2 4JS (Map 1: B6, 56) 0131 225 4442, browns-restaurants.com | Mon–Sat 9am–10.30pm; Sun 10am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11am–midnight; Fri/Sat 11am–1am; Sun 12.30–11pm.] Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £10.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

A decent all-round package should be an upmarket chain’s stock in trade, and Browns Bar and Brasserie in George Street has a slick take on most eating and drinking options. The chandelier wouldn’t disgrace Phantom of the Opera, while smart white-aproned waiting staff continue the belle époque brasserie theme. It’s a capacious, high-ceilinged space, but broken up by changes of level so that whether you want a comfy sofa for some elevated people watching, a perch at the bar, or a rendez-vous to dine à deux, in a group or even solo, there’s a nook to suit. Brunches, afternoon tea and family-friendly Sunday roasts figure alongside the lengthy à la carte menu. A meaty wild boar and chorizo burger is spicily juicy, while plum sauce spiked with star anise brings dash to succulent twice-roast leg of duck. Peppered parsnip mash and kale are nice side additions to the more routine chips and green beans, while salads are fresh, if a bit blandly

dressed. For afters, the sticky toffee, chocolate and pastry scenario may not surprise but neither will it disappoint. + Decent food in civilised surroundings, and sometimes live piano music - Busy in the bar after work

Café Cassis

Salisbury Hotel, Salisbury Road, Southside, EH16 5AA (Map 3: I3, 56) 0131 667 8991, cafecassis.co.uk | Tue–Sun noon–9.30pm. Closed Mon. Pre; HW £14.45; Kids; Wh. £7.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Tucked under the Salisbury Hotel in the quieter reaches of Edinburgh’s southside, Café Cassis makes good use of its semi-basement situation. Beyond the tight entranceway, the interior is warmly lit, welcoming and relaxed, and backs onto a child-friendly, leafy suburban garden. The menu presents various interesting French-influenced variations on Scottish ingredients. Presentation is taken seriously: seared scallops – served with the roe – are set among a joyful salad of asparagus, duck breast and walnuts. The centrepiece scallops, however, are lacking in flavour, which is also true of an otherwise perfectly prepared main of chunky cod loin, whose accompanying herb crust adds little. The non-seafood dishes fare better: a special starter of fried goat’s cheese works well, and a main of duck confit with Toulouse sausage on sautéed potatoes and vegetables is succulent and hearty. The crème brûlée – on which the kitchen could give lessons – is smooth and delicious. It also appears in miniature form in the ‘assiette gourmande’, a fun tapas-style selection of desserts including a mini blancmange hiding between layers of creamy and fruity sweetness. + Garden is ideal for a relaxed family lunch - Seafood dishes let the side down

Café Grande

184 Bruntsfield Place, Southside, EH10 4DF (Map 3: A4, 25) 0131 228 1188, cafegrande.co.uk | Mon–Thu 9am–10pm;

Fri/Sat 9am–11pm; Sun 10am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Wed 11am–11pm; Thu– Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30–11pm.] Veg; HW £14.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £10 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Café Grande has sat among Bruntsfield’s mish-mash of ever-changing shops for a good while now, and it seems well pitched for the market that surrounds it. Decked out in classic French bistro red, the walls are a cacophony of old prints, chalkboards and bric-a-brac that could have come straight from La Pucelles. Naturally, the menu is an extension of this – hearty duck and beef dishes alongside lighter salads and appetising braised chicken dishes. Café Grande knows its audience and has had the confidence over the years to keep things consistent – resisting any temptation to turn this charming neighbourhood bistro into a fine dining restaurant or to veer too alarmingly into anything that smacks of the dreaded ‘fusion’ word. Flavours are punchy, portions are generous and ingredients are treated with respect. The fish dishes here are a particular treat – fresh, clean and never over-sauced or over-complicated. Dessert focuses on home-made cakes changing on a daily basis. Staff know their ground, and you get the feeling that their confidence and aplomb is due to their army of regulars who keep them straight. + Pitch perfect Gallic charm - How much cheesecake does one restaurant need?

Cafe Hub

Castlehill, Royal Mile, Old Town See Cafés

The Caley Sample Room

42–58 Angle Park Terrace, West End See Bars & Pubs

Charleston Restaurant

Gala Maybury Casino, 5 South Maybury Road, EH12 8NE, 0131 338 4444, galacasino.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–3pm, 6pm–11pm. Players’ Menu served Mon–Sun 3pm–4am. [Bar open: Sun–Thu

110 Hanover Street, New Town, EH2 1DR (Map 1: D5, 87) 0131 220 1208, thedogsonline.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon– 4pm, 5–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–10pm.] HW £14.95. £11 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

A dark wooden staircase flanked by statues of the owner’s dogs takes you up to two atmospheric Georgian dining rooms. Low lit by candles, the restaurant is simply furnished with old-school wooden tables and chairs, and of course pictures of those dogs. What makes The Dogs stand out is the inclusion of many normally underused ingredients, such as pig’s cheek in a stew and offal in the seasonally changing menu. Barley is used instead of rice to give a butternut squash, spinach and stilton risotto extra bite, and a duck and black pudding pancake is packed with robust meaty flavours. The main courses are all around the £11 mark and for that you get plenty of hearty, rustic food. Smoked hake is made more substantial by being rolled in oats, giving the fish a crunchy outer layer, almost like an adult version of a fish finger. The chestnut loaf, while full of root vegetable flavour, is rather heavy going. An enticing dessert list includes a honeycomb parfait topped with an impressive rock of cinder toffee. + Pared down, unfussy dining experience - Some may not like using the same cutlery for different courses

The Dome Grill Room

14 George Street, New Town, EH2 2PF (Map 1: D5, 103) 0131 624 8624, thedomeedinburgh.com | Mon–Fri noon–9.45pm; Sat/Sun noon–10.45pm. [Bar open: Mon–Fri noon–11pm; Sat/Sun noon–1pm.] HW £23; Kids; Wh. £23 (lunch) / £28 (dinner)

Edinburgh’s George Street doesn’t lack fine buildings, but even so the Dome’s imposing pillared and porticoed street frontage makes quite a statement. The interior is every bit as grand: the Grill Room was originally a 19th-century banking hall, and comes complete with lofty columns, marble and mosaics. With

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Edinburgh such grandeur, the warmth of the staff comes as a pleasant surprise, and they’re sufficiently sharp-eyed that whichever corner of the vast space you choose, you won’t be neglected. Below the stunning eponymous dome itself sits a circular bar which buzzes early evening with the after-work crowd; the Grill Room with its crisp napery is the raised area beyond. You can see and be seen, and yet feel sheltered from the crowd while dining on generous portions of, perhaps, chicken and wild mushroom parfait followed by honey and sesame baked salmon, or haggis in filo pastry before chump of lamb. Yet another option is the Club Room, where simpler versions of lunch and dinner menus suit the cosier walnut panelling and booth seating. + Terrace on Rose Street for summertime al-fresco dining - Grandeur doesn’t come cheap

Earthy Canonmills

1–6 Canonmills Bridge, Stockbridge, EH3 5LF (Map 1: D1, 3) 0131 556 9696, earthy.co.uk | Mon–Sun 8am–10pm. HW £13; Kids; Wh; T/A. £15 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

With two popular food shops and a thriving café under their belt already, the Earthy empire expanded further in April 2012 with a new enterprise at Canonmills. As well as another food market, the site (formerly Dionika) also features a takeaway and bistro-style restaurant. It’s headed up by exciting young chef Calum Evans – the man responsible for Edinburgh supper club darlings Crescent Dining – who promises to be a good fit for the company’s ethos of championing artisan suppliers and providing ethical, sustainable and organic produce. Menus will change almost daily, but expect lots of inventive, healthy and colourful dishes. The interior is kitted out in a similar vein to the other Earthy outlets, but with an added level of sophistication, including ambitious lighting and a stunning poured concrete

bar, to reflect the move into evening dining. [Not yet open for full review at time of going to press.]

Elliot’s Restaurant

Apex Hotel, Waterloo Place, 23–27 Waterloo Place, New Town, EH1 3BH (Map 1: F5, 111) 0131 441 0440, apexhotels.co.uk/hotels/edinburghwaterloo-place | Mon–Fri 7–10am, noon– 2.30pm, 5–9.45pm; Sat/Sun 7.30–11am, 12.30pm–4pm, 5–9.45pm. [Bar open: Bar open noon–11pm (approx close).] Pre; HW £17.50; Kids; Wh. £12.50 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Competing with hundreds of bars and eateries, it’s a hard-knock life for hotel restaurants in Edinburgh. Elliot’s, part of the Apex chain’s Waterloo Place hotel, does its best to keep guests in and even tempt the locals along with some smart deals, including a good value pre-theatre and a pretty afternoon tea. Once in, the space does not disappoint – muted modern seating and oversized lights contrast beautifully with the building’s Georgian proportions, fireplaces and cornices. The food tries hard to match up. Bouillabaisse is as far from a soupy stew as it can be: a tower of fishcake, mullet and langoustine on a small pool of bisque. Well-flavoured, but trying a bit too hard. Jerusalem artichoke soup is simpler, with sage butter to swirl and brioche to dip. For mains, a hefty wodge of risotto lacks gooiness, but chunks of pumpkin, and almond crumb add interest. Sea bass is just fine, though black potatoes add a wow factor. Desserts are strong, particularly treacle tart with spiced plums. Elliot’s is an enjoyable experience and with a bit more heart could become a real competitor. + Beautiful setting, friendly service - Uneven food

E:S:I - Englishman, Scotsman and an Irishman 46 Queen Charlotte Street, Leith, EH6 7EX (Map 5: D5, 34) 0131 555 3103,

esibrasserie.com | Tue–Sat noon–3pm, 6–10pm; Sun 5–10pm. Closed Mon. LC; Veg; HW £14.50; Kids. £10.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Located just off the Links this modern split-level bistro draws in both Leith professionals and passing visitors. The restaurant’s name is a reference to the nationalities of the guys behind the venture: the Scotsman has since left, the Englishman is still to be found in the kitchen and the Irishman provides a reassuring presence at the front of house. The food is primarily drawn from the same three countries, so a neat tower of haggis, neeps and tatties makes a hearty starter, full of earthy flavours, but the home-cured gravlax is too highly salted to do justice to the salmon. Of the main courses steaks are a speciality – and on a Thursday are available at a discount – but there are plenty of other choices, such as sticky and sweet pork belly enlivened with five spice and apricots. Colcannon served in a giant cup is rich and filling, accompanied by crisp roast potatoes which although good in themselves are rather a potato overload. Puddings such as ginger and lime cheesecake and crème brûlée are competently executed bistro staples. + Good selection of wine and whisky - Not suitable for wheelchair users

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First Coast

97–101 Dalry Road, West End, EH11 2AB (Map 4: A4, 38) 0131 313 4404, first-coast.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–2pm, 5–10.30pm. Closed Sun. Veg; Pre; HW £13.50; Kids; Wh. £11.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Anyone who believes great food can’t be found west of Haymarket is missing out. First Coast’s marine wainscoting, cream walls and natural wood create a serene blend of smart, bright and comforting. So it is with the food. A menu featuring grain salad and ox cheeks may sound earnest, but the delivery is pure pleasure. The former makes a bright, rich starter;

the latter, an unforgettably tender and intense beef nihari, is a happy find on the specials board, which, aided by creative theme evenings, feeds First Coast’s enviable reputation. The constantly evolving and admirably broad menu is handled confidently and with enthusiasm on both sides of the kitchen door. Pak choi, wilted but still crunchy, dresses tasty beef dumplings alongside shredded chilli and consommé. Pollack fillet, firm and glow-in-the-dark white, is served between creamy mash and a tumble of meaty mussels and tiny shrimp, with abundant garlic butter sauce. Despite the generous portions, desserts such as white chocolate parfait with chewy honeycomb, or pistachio and almond kulfi with mango, are amply justified by the gruelling five-minute saunter up Dalry Road. + Creative, varying menu rewards return visits - Not where you’d expect to find it

Forth Floor Brasserie

Harvey Nichols, 30–34 St Andrew Square, New Town, EH2 2AD (Map 1: E5, 113) 0131 524 8350, harveynichols.com | Mon 10am–5.30pm; Tue–Sat 10am– 10pm; Sun 11am–5pm. [Bar open: Mon 10am–6pm; Tue/Wed 10am–11pm; Thu– Sat 10am–midnight; Sun 12.30pm–6pm.] Veg; HW £19.50; Kids; Wh. £14.50 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Refurbished in early 2012, this place looks smart and modern, with the use of wood and leather softening the metals and glass in the bright, open space. A new seafood bar is an attractive addition, and a screen has been erected between the brasserie and the fine-dining restaurant. The standout feature remains the great views across the city offered by the huge windows looking out on to St Andrew’s Square. But it’s not all about the surroundings – the food is also of a high standard, using as it does high-quality ingredients. The menu boasts plenty of Scottish seafood such as salmon from Loch Duart, mussels from Shetland and west-coast oysters. Even a simple scotch egg is transformed by leaving the yolk soft so it oozes out on to well-seasoned sausage meat. Thirtyfive-day aged Orkney beef is packed full of flavour and served with a rich herb-infused béarnaise sauce, the only disappointment being the chips, which should be crisper. The puddings such as a mille-feuille of rhubarb look like works of art and taste just as good. + Great cocktail menu - Too few warm, windless evenings to enjoy the outdoor terrace

The Gardener’s Cottage

Royal Terrace Gardens, EH7 5DX See Scottish

La Garrigue Bistro

88 Commercial Street, Leith, EH6 6LX See French

Good Seed Bistro

101/102 Dalry Road, West End, EH11 2DW (Map 4: A4, 37) 0131 337 3803, goodseedbistro.com | Mon–Sat noon– 10pm. Closed Sun. Veg; HW £13.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £7.95 (set lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

Bia Bistrot (page 33): Roisin and Matthias Llorente’s nook at Holy Corner

With terracotta flagstones, dark red walls and dim lighting there’s a definite Mediterranean feel to the surroundings at Good Seed, in keeping with the food. It’s one of a clutch of good restaurants now established in an area that was long under-serviced, but what differentiates it are the two accommodating hosts, Morag Dewar and Andrea Cuomo, who take time to chat with their guests, adding to the intimate, homely feel of the establishment. Food-wise there are

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some interesting, offbeat combinations. Coconut-coated chicken patties come rolled in fresh gratings, pleasantly preserving the milky sweetness of the coconut, and a lemon and rosemary syrup pudding benefits from the savoury note the herb adds to the sticky, sugary drizzle. More straightforward dishes, like a pork and beef meatloaf stuffed with Parma ham and mozzarella, are handled adeptly too, while a butternut squash and spinach frittata is fresh and wholesome, if a little under-seasoned. Best of all, there’s a genuine understanding of the vagaries of dietary intolerances, with plenty of options and alternatives for those usually left with little choice. + A menu unlike most others - Presentation of the food can be a little simplistic

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Hadrian’s Brasserie

The Balmoral, 1 Princes Street, New Town, EH2 2EQ (Map 2: D2, 4) 0131 557 5000, hadriansbrasserie.com | Mon– Fri 7am–12.30pm, 6.30–10.30pm; Sat 7–11am, 12.30–2.30pm, 6.30–10.30pm; Sun 7.30–11am, 12.30–2.30pm, 6.30–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–1am.] Veg; HW £19.50; Kids; Wh. £27 (lunch) / £27 (dinner)

Hadrians may be located within the iconic Balmoral Hotel, but it manages to avoid the usual hotel restaurant curse of deserted dining rooms and sub-par food by enticing in locals with tempting menus which change frequently. Service is faultless, with astonishing attention to detail, befitting a five-star hotel. The knowledge of the menu is accurate and delivered with flair and enthusiasm and is further bolstered by excellent application of the extensive and well thought out

wine list. Hadrians is most definitely a brasserie, with a menu focusing on well-cooked classics such as Blairgowrie steak, Gressingham duck and John Dory. It’s a pleasantly familiar menu, with plenty of choice and frequent specials to showcase local game and seasonality. Desserts are a highlight – from a light, brightly flavoured melon soup to a rich bourbon vanilla crème brûlée, there really is something for all tastes. + Successfully challenging perceptions of hotel restaurants - This kind of quality comes at a price

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Hellers Kitchen

15 Salisbury Place, Southside, EH9 1SL (Map 3: H4, 64) 0131 667 4654, hellerskitchen.co.uk | Mon–Sat 9am– 10pm; Sun 10am–8pm. Pre; HW £15.50; Kids. £8.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Richard and Michelle Heller have moved on from the popular New Bell in Causewayside, and Hellers Kitchen (previously their second string) is now basking in the full focus of their attention. It’s your typical friendly wee neighbourhood bistro, but reinvented with a fresh modern look. There are comfy bucket chairs, stools to perch on and enough space for the odd larger dining party. Freshly baked breads, patisserie and warm scones with homemade strawberry preserves are the stars for breakfast, brunch and afternoon treats, while set-price weekday lunches, special offers and pre-theatre menus are keen and canny. In the evening, Richard chalks up a roster of specials to add to the à la carte steaks, burgers and pasta. Slow braised shin of beef melts into its madeira jus and confit shallots; juicy tuna with plump olives and aioli make a lovely

THE RESTAURANT, CENTRALLY LOCATED ON PICARDY PLACE IN THE HEART OF EDINBURGH CITY CENTRE, INVITES OUR GUESTS TO EMBRACE AND CELEBRATE THE WINE, FOOD, STYLE, MUSIC AND EXPERIENCE OF OUR BRANDS. HEAVENLY MEAT, COOKED TO PERFECTION, SERVED WITH IMPECCABLE STYLE, AT JAWDROPPING VALUE, RIGHT THROUGH TILL 2AM

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Monday: Closed. Tuesday: Closed Wednesday: 5pm until 10pm. Pre Theatre Menu 5pm- 6.45pm Thursday: 5pm until 10pm. Pre Theatre Menu 5pm- 6.45pm Friday: 5pm until 2am. Pre Theatre Menu 5pm- 6.45pm Saturday: 11am until 2am. Brunch served 11am- 4pm. Pre Theatre menu 5PM- 6.45pm Sunday: 11am until 6pm Brunch

Licensed until 3am

THE Pepper Club (Below STEAK) is a luxurious hidden gem in Edinburgh’s city centre and is the ideal place to drink, dance, meet new friends and renew old acquaintances- all the elements you need for an unforgettable night out.

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■ 14 PICARDY PLACE ■ EDINBURGH EH1 3JT ■ 0131 557 0952 ■ EMAIL: BOOKINGS@STEAKEDINBURGH.COM The List Eating & Drinking Guide 37

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salad, and squid is crisply fried atop its fresh leaves. To follow, a pomegranatestrewn whisky parfait tastes as good as it looks, while a gorgeous lava flow of molten chocolate rewards the wait for the cooked-to-order fondant. + Good things to eat, nice place to be - Nowhere to hang your coat

Henricks Bar

1 Barclay Place, Southside, EH10 4HW See Bars & Pubs

Hewat’s Restaurant

19–21b Causewayside, Southside, EH9 1QF See Scottish

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Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & Outside Catering Open all day from 9am (Sun 10am) Available for larger bookings. 15 Salisbury Place EH9 1SL (close to Queen’s Hall and the Commonwealth pool)

Tel: 0131 667 4654 info@hellerskitchen.co.uk www.hellerskitchen.co.uk follow us on: facebook twitter

Home Bistro

41 West Nicolson Street, Southside, EH8 9DB (Map 2: E5, 75) 0131 667 7010, homebistro.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon– 2.30pm; Wed–Fri 6–9pm; Sat 6–9.30pm. Closed Sun. Veg; Pre; HW £15; Kids; Wh; T/A. £10 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Quite why owners Richard Logan and Rowland Thomson chose to homage the seventies with their charming bistro isn’t clear, though the wallpaper, trio of flying ducks and elongated wooden antelopes are endearingly quirky. But the nostalgia ends right where the cooking begins. The light, contemporary menu creates a bistro/café/takeaway hybrid which works well in this lively Southside location. Chef Richard clearly trusts the power of quality produce: a tomato and basil soup delivers knockout flavour from little other than its nameplate ingredients, as do several fresh, vibrant salads. The small, rotating selection of mains won’t always satisfy committed carnivores, but the open-minded are well rewarded. Mushrooms, almonds, rocket and pesto create an earthy, delicious pasta dish. An onion tart looks like quiche but floats like a warm cloud of cumin-scented heaven. Everything is home-made, including the only staple main – chunky fish fingers, with chips that stray nicely into bakedpotato territory. Desserts include perfectly executed classics such as lemon drizzle cake, or toffee, ginger and marmalade ice-cream. From kitsch to kitchen, Home Bistro does things its own way: with panache. + Simple, healthy and delicious food - Evening diners need to book

✱ The Honours

58a North Castle Street, New Town, EH2 3LU (Map 1: B5, 61) 0131 220 2513, thehonours.co.uk | Tue–Sat noon– 2.30pm, 6–10pm. Closed Sun/Mon. [Bar open all day.] Pre; HW £15; Kids. £17.50 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

There was little doubt that a brasserie developed under the keen eye of Martin Wishart, Edinburgh’s advocate of French cuisine, was going to be something special. Taking over the Castle Street site once home to Tony’s Table, Wishart’s team have turned an ordinary New Town shop front into a gold and lacquer jewel of a venue. The menu is thoughtful and balanced, and communicates a strong French identity; the grill showcases Scottish beef, but there’s also rabbit, excellent poultry and a healthy amount of offal. The mains are excellent examples of French classics and show off the spoils of an obsessive hunt for the best local produce and a constant demand for perfection in the kitchen. Desserts are similarly well judged, and thankfully the wine list is a little more reasonable than you might expect from a team used to charging Michelin-star prices. The real stars of the Honours are the knowledgeable, personable staff, and although perhaps a touch too formal,

a touch too expensive and a touch too perfect to be a true informal, allencompassing brasserie, The Honours is clearly to be treasured as a brilliant French restaurant in its own right. + The execution of the appealing menu doesn’t disappoint - Incomplete mains - side dishes are essential

Hotel du Vin

11 Bristo Place, Old Town, EH1 1EZ (Map 2: C5, 64) 0131 247 4900, hotelduvin.com | Mon–Fri 7–10am, noon–2.30pm, 5.30– 10.30pm; Sat 8–11am, noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun 8–11am, 12.30–3pm, 5.30–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11am–midnight; Fri/Sat 11am–1am; Sun 12.30pm–midnight.] Pre/Post; HW £20; Kids; Wh. £12.50 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Fact: eating out is way nicer than eating in. Or at least it is when the people who bring your food and pour your drinks are really, really lovely. This is well understood in Hotel du Vin, where the service is full of personality and pretty much faultless. This helps overcome a slightly cookie-cutter environment (even a boutique hotel chain is a hotel chain) and a few problems with food temperature. The menu is basically French accented comfort food – lots of classics, lots of meat. That’s no bad thing when a chicken and ham pie is this good – creamy, salty, with a thin flaky crust. Ballotine of hake sits on a bed of artichoke aioli, a great combination of earthy garlic flavours against the light, fresh fish. For starters, a kedgeree is properly dry, as it should be, though could do with a little more spice. Surprise of the meal must be yummy petit fours of deep-fried Mars bars. As you would expect, the wine list is compelling – but deep pockets may be necessary to properly appreciate its charms. + The deep-fried Mars bars, the service or the wine list? - Uneven food temperatures

Howies at Waterloo

29 Waterloo Place, New Town, EH1 3BQ See Scottish

Indigo Yard

7 Charlotte Lane, West End, EH2 4QZ See Bars & Pubs

Iris

47a Thistle Street, New Town, EH2 1DY (Map 1: D5, 85) 0131 220 2111, irisedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon– 10.30pm. LC; Pre; HW £13.90; Kids (under 5). £12.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

It’s hard to leave Thistle Street without eating a great meal somewhere, but Iris easily holds its own in this competitive neighbourhood in which every square foot of restaurant space is put to work. Here, however, soft panelling and carpeting in a muted palette of greens and browns soak up the bustle, and the diner is barely aware of the other tables, at which appear to sit a reassuring number of regulars. Most recipes contain no flour, a happy accident for the wheat-intolerant, but this is no privation. Starters include elegantly presented scallops with black pudding, pancetta and pea puree, or butternut, sage, pecan and ricotta filo parcels in a generous cheese sauce. A zippy mango salad rather hides the flavour of the accompanying smoked duck, but this is the only wobble in a menu of skill, subtlety and balance. Whole lemon sole is an aromatic and attractive main, while those who don’t do bones can try griddled swordfish with a gentle pineapple salsa instead. Chocolate key lime pie, and a novel take on rhubarb crumble, make a delicate but triumphant finish. + Outstanding desserts

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Edinburgh requirements, as a lot of the food is gluten-free including the sausages and haggis made specially by Findlay’s of Portobello. + The hot donuts - Not the liveliest location

The Living Room

113–115 George Street, New Town, EH2 4JN (Map 1: B5, 59) 0131 226 0880, thelivingroom.co.uk | Sun–Wed noon–11pm; Thu–Sat noon–1am. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–1am; Sun noon– 12.30am.] LC; Pre; HW £14.55; Kids. £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

The large dining room, filled with business people and tourists easing into the cream leather booths, oozes laid-back sophistication. It is all surface shine, with smart, attentive staff and vases of orchids, but the substance, the food, doesn’t quite measure up to the surroundings. A prettily presented starter of scallops with cauliflower purée is on the bland side but the beer-battered tiger prawns are satisfyingly crunchy. There are plenty of choices for main courses influenced by Asian, Italian, French and British cooking. The crispy duck pancakes contain tender strips of meat, but a halibut fillet with fennel sauce is disappointingly lacklustre. A highlight is the sharing board of desserts, a nice idea for those who want to try all the puddings, with mini crème brûlées, a gooey Eton mess, rich chocolate brownies and a strawberry and chocolate fondue. There’s a comprehensive wine list and cocktail menu but beware when ordering water as it will be bottled rather than tap unless you specify. + Attractive surroundings - Fairly average cooking

Malmaison Brasserie

Bread Street Brasserie (page 34): a fresh French accent to the Point Hotel - Menu could do with more vegetarian

options

Itchycoo Bar & Kitchen

80 High Street, Old Town, EH1 1TH (Map 2: D3, 97) 0131 473 6517, radissonblu. co.uk/hotel-edinburgh/dining | Mon– Sun 9am–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Fri 9am–midnight; Sat 10am–1am; Sun 10am–midnight.] LC; HW £18.50; Kids; Wh. £17 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Sleek and glossy, the tables in the Radisson Blu’s Itchycoo are wisely clustered round a small central bar area, helping a buzzy atmosphere to form even with relatively few diners. The lounge menu is available all day, and is exactly what you’d expect from a hotel restaurant – coffee and cake, light lunch options like salad and panini, through to more substantial evening plates. Their new ‘tapas inspired’ evening menu is more imaginative, however, with a compact range of well put-together dishes. While far from tapa sized, with each probably equalling a generous starter, sizzling beef is particularly successful, served with a slightly sweet, spicy sauce loaded with mixed beans. Hand-cut fries are moreish, and a bowl of fried seafood is skilfully done – a light, crunchy coating and no sign of over-cooking the fish. Less memorable are stuffed mushrooms, overpowered by their blue cheese topping, and a mixed antipasti is fairly average – although the accompanying pesto oil is terrific and quite possibly steals the entire show. + Some skilfull cooking - Easy to over-order on large portions

Katie’s Diner

12 Barclay Terrace, Southside, EH10 4HP See North American

Kyloe Restaurant & Grill

The Rutland Hotel, 1–3 Rutland Street, West End, EH1 2AE See Scottish

Leith Lynx

100–102 Constitution Street, Leith, EH6 6AW (Map 5: D5, 37) 0131 554 9996, leithlynx.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–9.30pm; Sat 10am–9.30pm; Sun 10am–8pm. Veg; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £4.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Since taking over Leith Lynx in July 2011 new owner and chef John Winnik has overhauled the menu and modernised the cooking. The dishes make good use of seasonal ingredients sourced locally – as a result the menu changes constantly and offers plenty of game and shellfish. Starters such as grilled halloumi or duck spring rolls are prettily presented and packed with contrasting yet complementary tastes and textures. Well executed mains see delicate roasted quails teamed with a robust haggis mash, the richness balanced by green grapes; char-grilled guinea fowl is moist and full of flavour, the skin crisp and wellseasoned. The puddings, such as warm Spanish-style donuts or fromage blanc with hazelnut meringues, show the same level of care and skill in preparation. Keep an eye out for the roast dinners at the weekend, sometimes available for just £5. It’s also a particularly good place for people with special dietary

1 Tower Place, Leith, EH6 7BZ (Map 5: D3, 12) 0131 468 5000, malmaison. com | Mon–Fri 7–10am, noon–2.30pm, 6–10.15pm; Sat/Sun 8–10.30am, noon– 2.30pm, 6–10.15pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 9am–1am.] HW £18.10; Kids; Wh. £19 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Being a hotel restaurant can have its perks and challenges – and the brasserie at Malmaison does make an effort to be more than an adjunct to the successful and stylish hotel chain. The chunky Victorian waterfront property, fitted out with plush carpeting, brass detailing and deep leather seats, belies the building’s past life as a home for retired seamen. Buzzy during the day, low lighting in the evenings brings a feel of intimacy and calm. The eclectic menu clusters around comfort food rather than any national identity, with varying success. Moules marinieres and mushrooms on toast sound gently soothing but are each slightly bland and indistinctive. The 35-day-aged rump steak does arrive cooked to order but the frites are too salty to enjoy in quantity. The pork belly, though small, is beautifully prepared, the accompanying black pudding and apple sauce genuinely accenting the crisp-topped, richly moist meat. The simplicity and surprising intensity of the passion fruit sorbet counter the handsomely tall and subtle rhubarb soufflé. Overall this inconsistency undermines a good atmosphere and high expectations. + A quiet spot in Leith for inside and outside dining - The menu is less distinctive than the room décor

Metropole

33 Newington Road, Southside, EH9 1QR See Cafés

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Monteiths

57–61 High Street, Old Town, EH1 1SR (Map 2: E3, 99) 0131 557 0330, monteithsrestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Fri 5–11pm; Sat/Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 3pm–1am.] LC; Pre; HW £19.50; Kids (after 5pm). £18 (set lunch) / £32 (dinner)

Monteiths’ discreet menu board at the head of one of the Royal Mile’s darker closes is easily missed. But don’t, because this subterranean bar and restaurant’s low-key Scottish style is a welcome antidote to the energetic tartanry to be found nearby. Buttonback leather armchairs make the bar a cosy retreat for a dram or cocktail, while a cheerful clutter of tables and chairs of varying provenance feature in the book-lined dining room. There’s tartan, but not indigestibly much, while closer inspection of the obligatory stag’s head above the blazing fire reveals a tongue in cheek confection of blackpainted MDF. Impeccable cooking and good ingredients are centre-stage here. Pinkly tender tranches of lamb come with crisp sweetbreads and a rosemary jus, a peppery disc of Stornoway black pudding makes an unctuous foil to austerely lean wood pigeon, while local girolles and a toffee apple jus sit sweetly with confit pig cheek and fork-tender belly pork. The house take on pear tart is a whole pear on a crisp shard of pastry with a creamy pillow of ice-cream and caramel spooned beside, making a very satisfying conclusion. + Scottishness at a whisper rather than a shout - Not vegetarian heaven

Montpeliers Bar and Brasserie

159–161 Bruntsfield Place, Southside, EH10 4DG (Map 3: A4, 28) 0131 229 3115, montpeliersedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am– 1am; Sun 12.30pm–1am.] Veg; HW £17.95; Kids. £10 (set lunch) / £16.50 (dinner)

A favourite of Bruntsfield’s young professional set for two decades, the apparently recession-proof Montpeliers sowed the seed for a successful and diverse group of bars and restaurants including George Street glam joints

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Edinburgh Tigerlily and Rick’s. Here, however, earthy colours set a mellower tone. Tempting breakfasts start the day at 9am, and both ambiance and menu vary until the evening buzz kicks in. A pumpkin, goat’s cheese and pine nut crêpe starter is a little too mild against a cheesy roux, but the Isle of Lewis mussels – fresh as a lighthouse in a gale and luxuriating in a creamy sauce – would be hard to beat, even in Edinburgh’s many specialist fish restaurants. Borders lamb, snug in a rich, herby blanket, is moist, rare and delicious. For dessert, a chocolate brownie contrasts delightfully with the accompanying hot sauce and vanilla ice-cream. Busy nights will be too loud for some, but for others, the energetic vibe and the very respectable beer list complete the draw. + Very reasonable two-course set menu - Noisy when busy

Mrs Forman’s Bar & Kitchen

2 Ravensheugh Road, Portobello, EH21 7PP See Bars & Pubs

Mums Great Comfort Food

4a Forrest Road, Old Town, EH1 2QN (Map 2: C5, 62) 0131 260 9806, mumsgreatcomfortfood.co.uk | Mon–Sat 9am–10pm, Sun 10am–10pm. Veg; HW £11.95; Kids; T/A. £5 (set lunch) / £10 (dinner)

Whoever the mysterious Mum was, she clearly had no time for airs and graces. Mum’s is the original Monster Mash from back in 2003, but this incarnation appeared in 2010 and has been keeping the army of dedicated fans full of robust, no-nonsense cooking happy since then. Determinedly basic and honest, the menu is all about British classics: steak pies, stews, fish and chips and sausages. Especially sausages. Mum’s source theirs from the award-winning O’Hagan’s, and the delightfully bizarre mix of flavours changes daily. From the eye-wateringly hot Satan’s Revenge to the more classic Auld Reekie, there’s plenty to keep the faithful clientele coming back for more. Mash is a build-your-own affair, with a mix of typical additions and some more inventive concoctions. If, by some amazing feat, the mains fail to sate, pudding is at hand. The menu is worryingly reminiscent of school dinners, but it’s worth having a punt on the Eton mess or the treacle pudding. Dining here is a delicious, cheering treat, the dishes generously sized and seasoned well. The service mirrors the food – unpretentious, straight talking and relaxed. + Rib-sticking value - Looking longingly at the dessert you’ll never finish

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Museum Brasserie

National Museum of Scotland, Chambers Street, Old Town, EH1 1JF (Map 2: D4, 59) 0131 247 4084, nms.ac.uk | Mon–Sun 10am–4.30pm. Veg; HW £15.50; Kids; Wh. £13 (set lunch)

They invented a lot of stuff, did the Scots, and many of those inventions are on display at the all-new National Museum of Scotland. The equally allnew Museum Brasserie echoes this pioneering spirit by quietly reinventing the tourist attraction dining experience. Their ambitious take means proper food with proper service – no hot plates, no plastic trays and not a wilted chip in sight. Instead, expect home-made modern bistro classics: great burgers, steak sandwiches and fish-cakes, plus some Eastern Med influences. Sweet potato and chickpea fritters are silky, yielding clouds sitting on a puddle of spicy, perfectly soft lentils. Crab adds a strong punch of flavour when added to salmon fish-cakes, and Guinea fowl on tabouleh is sprinkled with pretty jewels of pomegranate (although perhaps could do with a tad more spice). It’s all extremely good. In fact, it’s definitely worth a visit in its own right. Keep in mind though that the Brasserie is indelibly linked to the museum, so plan your visit carefully. Squillions of visitors plus a dinky children’s menu means the place will be impossibly busy in school holidays and August. + Very well considered menu - It will get busy. Really busy. Plan ahead

North Bridge Brasserie

20 North Bridge, Old Town, EH1 1YT (Map 2: D2, 14) 0131 622 2900, northbridgebrasserie.com | Mon–Sun noon–2pm, 5.30–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 10am–midnight; Sun noon– midnight.] LC; Pre; HW £18.55; Kids; Wh. £17.50 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

If you wish a little 19th-century grandeur with your dinner, the North Bridge Brasserie will fit the bill. Now a hotel but originally the home of the Scotsman newspaper, dark wood panelling and marble columns give a period feel, while the adjacent bar works a more modern vibe. Between them, they cover breakfast, lunch (set price) and tea (afternoon or high), with bar snacks and platters to stave off hunger attacks between times. The brasserie’s evening à la carte is upmarket and threaded with seasonal flavours and promising notes on Scottish provenance, though execution can be variable. Mull cheddar dumplings with a pale leek purée cry out for a bit of the colour and texture delivered by a velvety pumpkin soup with ricotta croquette, while a smoked fillet of

Shetland halibut with lobster sauce and crayfish and ham hock cassoulet could do with a bit more cooking of the beans and some reining in of assertive flavours. No complaints with the Black Isle pork, though, which is tender, well cooked and sauced with Auld Reekie whisky and wild mushrooms. + Victorian grandeur - Food not always as good as it sounds

Olive Branch Bistro

91 Broughton Street, New Town, EH1 3RX (Map 1: F3, 124) 0131 557 8589, theolivebranchscotland.co.uk | Mon–Thu 10am–10pm; Fri/Sat 10am–11pm; Sun 10am–10pm. LC; Pre/Post; HW £15.05; Kids. £17 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Broughton Street has long been a hot spot for eating and drinking in the city, and this corner dining room is a tremendously popular example. Open for breakfast through to dinner, the usual suspects are served throughout the day before the real event kicks in for dinner. The fare consists of old faithfuls and bistro classics but with attention paid to local, seasonal ingredients served honestly and modestly. Fish and chips, chicken and lentil stew and good old steak are the reasons why customers squeeze onto the wickerwork chairs, where comforting plates of generously portioned dishes are hurried to tables. Happily, the ingredients are treated with care: firm, fresh fish appears in a light, crisp batter, while hunks of appetizing beef are served simply with chips and a well-seasoned mushroom sauce. Service assumes you are dining at a leisurely pace but the staff negotiate the awkward space well and run the gamut of tables with enthusiasm. Come for the rustic classics, stay for the ambience. + Fresh, seasonal and often local ingredients - Could do with a touch more flair

One Square

1 Festival Square, West End, EH3 9SR (Map 4: D3, 44) 0131 229 9131, onesquareedinburgh.co.uk | Sun–Thu 7am–10pm; Fri/Sat 7am–10.30pm. (Snack menu Mon–Sun 7am–11pm). HW £18; Kids; Wh. £18 (lunch) / £23 (dinner)

The Sheraton Grand Hotel and Spa may struggle to call itself the loveliest looking hotel in Edinburgh, but it does have an outlook to rival its fellow big hitters. You can make the most of it at the rooftop Spa or, now, the revamped bar and brasserie, which lines one side of Festival Square and looks past the venerable Usher Hall to the imposing west crags of Castle Rock. One Square describes a multi-faceted offer, including gin bar, lounge-café, outside terrace, private

Porto & Fi on the mound 9 North Bank Street Edinburgh EH1 2LP 0131 225 9494

dining space and main dining space, which itself provides many options, from breakfast at any time of day to light bites, grills, afternoon tea, seasonal specials or a seven-day roster of robust dishes of the day. Former Grill Room chef Malcolm Webster remains at the helm, pinning his colours to the mast of an all-British menu without recourse to pastas, risottos or Far-East dabblings. You’ll find potted shrimp, pot-roast chicken, various pies and traditional cuts, all served in a lightfilled area smartly designed with dark woods, natural fabrics and lots of eager staff. + A sleek new destination with a grand Edinburgh view - Giant TV screen in Festival Square

The Outsider

15/16 George IV Bridge, Old Town, EH1 1EE (Map 2: C4, 54) 0131 226 3131 | Mon– Sun noon–11pm. HW £11.80 (Carafe); Kids; Wh. £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

‘Pink fur potatoes’ is probably a typo, but with a wine list that describes a South African chenin as ‘like falling from a white-water raft whilst passing through a peach grove’, all bets are off. The Outsider buzzes. A suspended mezzanine hovers over a street-level eating area that doesn’t let a few decorous period details stand in the way of some oversize modern art. After dark, candles here, there and up the stair frame romantic views of the floodlit castle. The menu packs a lot of personality. Instead of the now all-too-familiar sourcing tag, it just quietly weaves black kale, beetroot, cavolo nero, salsify (and pink fir potatoes) through the dishes, and leaves you to do the math about seasonal and local. Nutmeg, star anise and cassia bark bring welcome and uncommon notes of spice, while skirt steak is a clever cut to include for those who prize flavour in their meat. Salsas spike a warm or fruity edge into sweet and savoury alike. Bring on the chenin, and you could just about be in that peach grove. + Bright, bold menu from noon till late, and dish of the day at under £7 till 7pm - Can feel the pressure when busy

Petit Paris

38–40 Grassmarket, Old Town, EH1 2JU See French

La P’tite Folie

61 Frederick Street, New Town, EH2 1LH See French

Pink Olive

55–57 West Nicolson Street, Southside, EH8 9DB (Map 2: D5, 70) 0131 662 4493, ilovepinkolive.co.uk | Tue–Fri noon– 2.30pm, 5.30–10pm; Sat noon–3pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun 10.30am–4pm.

Porto & Fi 47 Newhaven Main Street Edinburgh EH6 4NQ t: 0131 551 1900

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BISTROS & BRASSERIES

In association with

Closed Mon. LC; Veg; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids. £7.75 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Bistro

Tucked in beside the Fringe hotspot of Bristo Square, Pink Olive is a charming, snug, family-run and eponymous bistro. Olive, the owner’s gran, supplies the rhubarb from her garden, and granddadin-law grows the apples for the delightful chutney which accompanies a starter of light parsnip and sage fritters. Lightly pickled red gurnard demonstrates commitment to both sustainable fishing and enjoyable, unusual flavours: set upon fresh, springy salad like a roll-mop herring, it is thicker and far milder, and tastes of virtue without the hair-shirt. The feel is fresh and light throughout, and not even the crispy pork belly could provoke a guilty conscience. Owner Kay McBride forages elderberries for the frozen yoghurt, but the winning dessert is a coffee pannacotta with rich chocolate sauce. Laid out like knobs on an art deco radio, it yields smooth, creamy luxury to the spoon. The lunch menu is keenly priced, though it’s still possible to splash out on some serious Aberdeen Angus, while the evening menu makes for appetising reading. + Budget lunch feels like a treat - Not ideal for large groups

welcome to the heart of the Leith Links community

Pop in for a lazy breakfast or pick up a sandwich for your lunch. Call in and check your email on our free wifi, or join us for a cosy dinner in the evening - an ever changing menu, fully licensed and BYO, Home baking, and illy coffee - open 7 days

Porto & Fi

47 Newhaven Main Street, Leith, EH6 4NQ See Cafés

2 Restalrig Road, Edinburgh, EH6 8BN Scotland

Porto & Fi on the Mound

9 North Bank Street, Old Town, EH1 2LP (Map 2: C3, 26) 0131 225 9494, portofi. com | Mon–Sat 10am–9.30pm; Sun 10am–5.30pm. HW £14.95; Kids; Wh. £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Those who cherish Porto and Fi’s café in Newhaven will feel right at home in this city centre offshoot. The morning rolls and muffins, gorgeously Bunterish homemade cakes plus dishes adaptable to a light lunch or hearty supper are all here. But while the ‘passionate about food’ signature is the same, the feel is subtly different. Sharp contemporary design and opening hours stretching longer into the evening say sleek city bistro rather than seaside café, while the terrace overlooking the Mound and Princes Street beyond just begs you to linger for a civilised glass of wine. The cooking is bistro/café fare at the top of its game. If it’s fried, it’s piping hot and crackling crisp, like the crab and shrimp spring rolls, the curly fries and fresh haddock goujons, while home-made tartare sauce, mayonnaise and dressings add zap and zing. Fish is spanking fresh, or quality smoked like the haddock in the leekflecked Cullen skink risotto. Comfort food comes in the shape of venison sausages with red cabbage atop parsnip and potato mash, or curvaceous Nutella bread and butter pudding. Love handles on a plate. + Great quality, great value, great view - ‘Light Meals or Starters’ are brilliant on their own but as starters could leave you too full for pud

Rick’s

55a Frederick Street, New Town, EH2 1LH (Map 1: C5, 77) 0131 622 7800, ricksedinburgh.co.uk | Sun–Wed 7am–10pm; Thu–Sat 7am–11pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11.30am–1am; Sun 12.30pm–1am.] Veg; HW £17.95; Kids. £10 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

A stalwart of Edinburgh’s style bar scene for over a decade, Rick’s is gently reinventing itself with accessible, casual dining at its heart. The space works well, divided by banquettes and wood panels

Urban Angel (page 43): the halo still fits for the ethical local bistros

into lots of cosy nooks and crannies, all connected to the central bar area. The relationship between bar and restaurant is key here – there is a great cocktail list, regular wine offers and the bar customers helps the atmosphere buzz along, even on a quiet night. The menu is relaxed and unfussy, but the cooking is uneven. Ribeye steak served with chunky chips and bearnaise sauce, and a starter of chicken liver parfait both tick all the taste boxes, but cod with lemon and parsley mash is less successful, with overcooked fish and weirdly textured mash. Fish-cakes promise much – crispy on the outside, soft inside – but don’t really deliver on flavour. While no longer aiming to be the place to see and be seen, for laid-back dinner and drinks in pleasant surroundings you could do a lot worse. + Still cool, still fun - Cooking doesn’t always deliver

by the accompanying rich mincemeat ice-cream. The black forest chocolate pot gives a satisfying cocoa hit without being too rich or sweet. Bar snacks such as venison scotch eggs are available for those who want to sit and enjoy the midweek live music, and there’s a roast dinner on a Sunday. + Fantastic oysters - It’s an easy place to miss

The Shore Bar & Restaurant

Home life getting you down? Move here. Seriously. It’s open from 10am till 10pm, serving everything from morning rolls through to a three-course dinner. There’s free wi-fi. People bring you drinks. The furniture is cool kitsch-retro-chic. If only the sofa folded into a bed, there would be no reason to leave Spoon, ever. There’s certainly plenty to keep your taste buds interested. Mushrooms on toasted brioche are full of deep, woodsy flavour, though could do with a touch more sauce. Delicious grilled mackerel is criss-crossed from the char-grill and served on a limey pillow of sweet potato mash. Brisket of beef is a welcome addition to any menu, particularly when it’s as meltingly tender as this. Desserts are pretty, with a flourless chocolate cake stealing the show (gluten free, as are many of the dishes). That said, it’s the kind of place where they’re equally happy to serve you a cup of coffee while you tap on your laptop. So go. Hang out. But maybe leave the sleeping bag at home. + Cool, laid-back vibe - Not the most welcoming entrance

✱

3 The Shore, Leith, EH6 6QW (Map 5: D3, 14) 0131 553 5080, fishersbistros. co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–10.30pm; Sun 12.30–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–1am.] HW £13.95; Kids. £10 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Down by the water in Leith this dark wood-paneled bar is strong on seafood, served by attentive staff in a pub that has retained is character and friendly informal atmosphere. Loch Fyne oysters taste as fresh as the crest of a wave, sweet and plump and served simply with lemon wedges and Tabasco-flavoured dipping sauce. There’s a fish of the day chalked up on a board, such a sea bass cooked perfectly to allow its flavour to shine through. Black bream is teamed with Asian spices and perched upon a savoury cake of chickpeas. There are plenty of meat dishes too, but vegetarians will struggle here. The puddings are worth leaving room for; apple tarte tatin has light buttery pastry and caramelised fruit but is turned into something special

0131-538-0664 www.bijoubistro.co.uk

Smoke Stack

53–55 Broughton Street, New Town, EH1 3RJ See North American

✱

Spoon Café Bistro

Fully Licensed Cafe Bistro, Private Dining, Outside Catering

6a Nicolson Street, Old Town, EH8 9DH (Map 2: D4, 87) 0131 557 4567, spooncafebistro.co.uk | Mon–Sat 10am– 10pm. Closed Sun. Veg; Pre; HW £12.95; Kids; Wh. £12 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Open: Mon-Wed 9am-6pm Thurs-Sat 9am-11pm Sun 10am-5 pm 12 HILLHOUSE ROAD BLACKHALL EDINBURGH EH4 2AG t: 0131 332 2289 www.thesuburbanpantry.co.uk

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BISTROS & BRASSERIES

list.co.uk

Cornelius

Stac Polly Bistro

38 St Mary’s Street, Old Town, EH1 1SX See Scottish

Beer & Wine

The Suburban Pantry

From the everyday, to the exquisite (but always out of the ordinary) selection of beers in Scotland.

18-20 Easter Road www.corneliusbeers.com

T: 0131 652 2405

http://twitter.com/corneliusbeers

12 Hillhouse Road, Blackhall, EH4 2AG, 0131 332 2289, thesuburbanpantry.co.uk | Mon–Wed 9am–4pm; Thu/Fri 9am–4pm, 6–9.30pm; Sat 9am–4pm, 6–9.30pm; Sun 10am–4pm. HW £13.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £14.50 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Take one modest space in a run of suburban shops. Add a chef who cooks fresh food with imagination and care. Stir in a partner with an eye for interior design, and who waits tables with a smile. Result: full house for dinner Thursday to Saturday and a steady daytime footfall every day of the week. Blackhall’s Suburban Pantry starts early with honey-tinged porridge, full Scottish (plus a veggie option) or a good old bacon sarnie. Lunch brings enticing mains and home-made puds, plus good things put into focaccia, pastry or fresh leaves for something lighter. Dinner might be a haggis parcel wrapped in seaweed with creamed leeks, followed by a tender braised daube of beef with kale and mustard mash. Sundays is youcan’t-go-wrong day: eggs Florentine or Benedict? French toast with smoked bacon? Or main plus pud? You can park nearby. It’s on a bus route. They choose interesting wines, price them reasonably and offer glasses in two sizes. And they do private dining, cakes for special occasions and outside catering. Tap dancing hasn’t yet been seen. But if asked nicely, they very well might. + Urban food at suburban prices - Periodic wine tasting evenings are popular, so best to book

Tempus

25 George Street, New Town, EH2 2PB (Map 1: D5, 101) 0131 240 7197, tempus– edinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sun 11am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am–1am.] Pre; HW £16.95; Kids; Wh. £16 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

BROWNS EDINBURGH

B R E A K FA S T • L U N C H • A F T E R N O O N T E A P I A N O & C O C K TA I L S • P R E T H E AT R E D I N N E R • S U N DAY L U N C H

Large mirrors and bold works of art line the walls of the George Hotel’s plush dining room, the ceiling is elaborately decorated and lit by huge chandeliers. Understated it isn’t but, despite the opulent surroundings the atmosphere is one of casual rather than formal dining, where big groups of friends munching burgers rub shoulders with wealthy hotel guests giving it a lively city-centre vibe. The menu sticks to familiar bistro staples rather than going for experimentation. Of the starters the Loch Fyne smoked salmon is delicately flavoured, complimented by a tangy horseradish cream; in another dish gooseberries cut through the richness of smoked mackerel.

All the steaks are 28-day aged beef from the Ballindalloch estate. The rib-eye is finely textured, softly yielding against the knife, with home-made chips that come stacked like Jenga pieces but ought to be crisper. A deeply flavoured rump of lamb, however, is let down by slightly overcooked caramelised kidneys. Although perfection may be lacking in the main courses the puddings, especially the sticky toffee, hit the spot. + The quality of the meat - Cooking not as impressive as the décor

Ten Hill Place

10 Hill Place, Old Town, EH8 9DS (Map 2: E4, 80) 0131 662 2080, tenhillplace.com | Mon–Sun noon–9.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–11pm.] Veg; HW £13.50; Kids; Wh. £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Surrounded by academia and festival venues, Ten Hill Place is ideally placed for a great bistro. But hotel restaurants so often fail to shine, and whether or not Ten Hill Place rises above its peers depends on a major refurbishment which the owner, the Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh, was contemplating at the time of going to press. Certainly, a casserole of tender game has all the comforting richness that the exhausted traveller craves, and the attentive kitchen knows how to cook a chunky steak exactly to order. A pleasingly aromatic starter of wild mushrooms in a creamy, tarragon-strewn sauce wants only better toast under it, but the goat’s cheese and red onion tart is a curious reversal – the bland top doesn’t live up to the jolly bottom. Desserts appear to be bought in, and little is lost by skipping them. Ten Hill Place can’t yet provide a great night out, but after a long day, the business traveller may be quite content with the venue’s take on a quiet night in. + Quiet spot in a central location - Desserts are forgettable

The Terrace Brasserie

Royal Terrace Hotel, 18–22 Royal Terrace, New Town, EH7 5AQ (Map 1: H4, off) 0131 557 3222, royalterracehotel. co.uk | Mon–Sun 5–9.30pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu 11am–midnight; Fri/Sat 11am–1am.] LC; Pre; HW £18.50; Kids; Wh. £26 (dinner)

Situated on one of the grandest Georgian streets in Edinburgh is the dining-room of the Royal Terrace Hotel. The concise menu features some interesting ideas that lift it above the usual brasserie fare. For starters the soft sweetness of the scallops is contrasted with the crispy texture of pigs’ cheeks, and the seared pheasant breast is perfectly paired with a walnut vinaigrette. All the food is presented beautifully: dashes of mushroom jus

Bar & Restaurant

B ROWN S • E D I N B U R G H 131-133 G E OR G E S T R E E T, E D I N B U R G H E H 2 4 J S Tel: 0131 225 4442 • www.browns-restaurants.co.uk

25 George Street, Edinburgh EH2 2PB Tel. 0131 240 7197 www.tempus-edinburgh.co.uk info@tempus-edinburgh.co.uk

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In association with

Edinburgh decorate the pan-fried cod which is perched on very smooth garlic mashed potatoes. The pork fillet and roasted belly are both well flavoured, succulent pieces of meat skilfully cooked. Desserts such as warm orange pudding are of the same high standard, although the brandy is hard to detect in the apple and calvados cheesecake. Also on offer are a good pre-theatre deal and set-price dinner. The only downside is the room itself: the décor is drab and uninspired, with the flat atmosphere of a hotel restaurant, which is a shame as the cooking is worthy of the AA Rosettes it has won. + Great presentation - The food deserves a better room

Tigerlily

125 George Street, New Town, EH2 4JN (Map 1: B6, 57) 0131 225 5005, tigerlilyedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sun 7.30am–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 8am–1am.] Veg; HW £18.50; Kids; Wh. £16 (lunch) / £30 (dinner)

Tigerlily is the flagship venue for the Montpelier Group, a set of well-liked, bold restaurants and bars in the city, centred around this boutique hotel, restaurant and bar on George Street. The restaurant layout is charmingly haphazard, with mismatched furniture, bold colours and plenty of quiet, private corners available for the beautifully dressed clientele to sneak into. The menu gives plenty of choice without being over-ambitious and shows off an attention to Scottish produce and local tastes. Fusing classic brasserie fare with a more global view, highlights include a beautifully presented sashimi dish, a deliciously rich and flavoursome Ayrshire pork duet and some well prepared and seasoned steaks. Imaginative touches are what set Tigerlily apart from other brasseries, and for the most part it works well, although the sharing platters seem rather tacked on to a menu which already caters to a full spectrum of tastes and appetites. Service, as with all the Montpelier venues, is consistent and charming without being invasive and emphasises that the management really know how to please a crowd. + Stylish food in stylish surroundings - Feeling underdressed

neighbourhood bistro – but now the secret is out. + Richly flavoured dishes served with panache - Waiting for a table at the weekend

Urban Angel

• 1 Forth Street, New Town, EH1 3JX (Map 1: F3, 137) 0131 556 6323, urbanangel.co.uk | Mon–Thu 9am–9pm; Fri/ Sat 9am–10pm; Sun 9am–5pm. • 121 Hanover Street, New Town, EH2 1DJ (Map 1: D4, 99) 0131 225 6215, urban-angel.co.uk | Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 10am–5pm. LC; Veg; Pre; HW £15.90; Kids; T/A. £15 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Seasonal, local and organic are the buzz words for these bright, informal, modern bistros. A high proportion of the menu is made up of daily specials making the most of what produce is best that day. A nourishing parsnip soup is enlivened with mustard; flat breads come studded with seeds and throughout the menu spices – and herbs in particular – are used to enhance but never overwhelm the food. The fish pie, for example, is flavoured with dill and grain mustard mixed in to the mash. Good use is made of vegetables, too – a beetroot, pea and blue cheese soufflé is accompanied by a salad of broccoli and purple sprouting – so the food is nutritious as well as delicious. The puddings are mostly big slabs of cake such as frangipane tart or a hefty baked cheesecake. For those after something more delicate, afternoon tea is also available, where dainty little lemon meringue pies sit alongside scones and sandwiches. Because of the quality and sustainable nature of the produce the prices of the dishes can seem high relative to other less ethical eateries, but good value is a certainty here. + Ethical food policy - Could do with some lighter puddings

The Voodoo Rooms

19a West Register Street, New Town,

EH2 2AA (Map 1: F5, 107) 0131 556 7060, thevoodoorooms.com | Mon–Thu 4–10pm; Fri–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 4pm–1am; Fri–Sun noon–1am.] LC; Veg; Pre; HW £15; Kids. £7 (set lunch) / £15.50 (dinner)

While the food may not claim as much focus as the music, events and supersmashing cocktail list in the sexy, slightly sleazy Voodoo Rooms, it’s more than just an afterthought. Tucked beside the main bar, a small, black linen and leather restaurant space features a compact menu leaning heavily on pub grub classics – steak, fish and chips, burgers – but with home-made touches that elevate it beyond basic bar food. So a veggie burger – though undeniably simple – is crumbly, subtly spiced and clearly made with love, while king prawn skewers with chorizo and red pepper aioli are fresh and well-balanced. As you would expect, sharing plates and snacky things are all present and correct, with a simple starter of bread with dips becoming more than the sum of its parts, thanks to some excellent bread. A short dessert list features a stonking baked cheesecake, though banana ice-cream may be more of an acquired taste. Handily, many dishes are light enough to be paired with one of the aforementioned cocktails – just ask the friendly staff for suggestions. + Eating food AND drinking cocktails? Who knew? - Restaurant will be noisy when the bar is busy

The Water of Leith Café Bistro

52 Coburg Street, Leith, EH6 6HJ See Cafés

Whighams Wine Cellars

13 Hope Street, Charlotte Square, West End, EH2 4EL See Bars & Pubs

Wildfire Restaurant and Grill 192 Rose Street, New Town, EH2 4AZ See Scottish

Timberyard

10 Lady Lawson Street, EH3 9DS See Scottish

Toast

146 Marchmont Road, Southside, EH9 1AQ (Map 3: E4, 35) 0131 446 9873, toastedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sat 10am– 10pm; Sun 10am–5pm. HW £13.50; Kids; Wh. £11 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Marchmont’s residents have been withholding information from the rest of the city: they have jealously guarded the fact that Toast, tucked up at the top of Marchmont Road, is such a delight. It’s understandable, given that queues for seats in the small dining room are par for the course during the weekends. The menu is an appealing mix of classics with modern twists – think pork fillet with apple lentils and salmon mousse with pickled cucumber. Desserts are less adventurous, but delightfully comforting, featuring caramelised pineapple garnished with rum ’n’ raisin ice-cream and a raspberry pannacotta. The wine list is short and sweet but offers a good mix of styles and price points; there’s also a good range of local beers to choose from. All this is delivered by staff who genuinely seem to care about what they’re serving and how their customers experience their restaurant. Toast has found the formula for a brilliant

TABLE Talk : SUZANNE O’CONNOR ON HER NEW VEGETABLE GARDEN I really am passionate about the produce we use. I know it’s something every chef says, as there are two more in my family, my brother and sister. (Who says too many chefs spoil the broth? My mammy, probably!) The Scottish Café & Restaurant and Centotre are beginning an adventure we’ve always wanted: to grow our own vegetables for the restaurants. Starting a herb garden in Princes Street Gardens two years ago has been inspiring, and from June 2012 we hope to have produce coming out of Casa San Lorenzo, our new garden in Lasswade. The restored Victorian garden is named after the patron saint of cooks. Planning with our wonderful gardener Erica for what I will need during the year ahead is a little on the daunting side, but also pretty awesome. Some of the suppliers we’ve come to rely on in both restaurants are helping out, including Graham from Cuddybridge Apple Juice and Robert Wilson from Scotherbs, who has been involved from the beginning in everything from planting to coming to show us what to do and give talks. Who knew you could grow chocolate mint? Casa San Lorenzo fits in with our motto: ‘Love Happy Food’. We are recycling all our food waste as we’re all about sustainability – the cycle begins here. Some organising is still called for, but it will be worth it to think that I could have seasonal Scottish produce at my beck and call. So I will keep you posted on the groundbreaking news . . . and the first potatoes! ■ Suzanne O’Connor is head chef at the Scottish Café and Restaurant (see pages 18 and 94).

First Coast (page 36): a benchmark in relaxed neighbourhood dining The List Eating & Drinking Guide 43

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CAFES

list.co.uk

Edinburgh

CAFES With some notable losses to Edinburgh’s café scene this year, it’s bittersweet to see so many still determinedly showcasing the great and the good of Scotland’s food scene. There’s nowhere to hide with lunchtime staples: principles are exposed in the simplicity of good ingredients and many proudly make a virtue of this. From meals skirting great value bistrohood to venues serving only the finest in cakes, this is a varied category. Cafés tend to thrive on neighbourhood loyalties – and these have all been reviewed by locals with a knowledge of their particular city area and its strengths. There’s a lot to make a special journey for. Reviewers: Doug Bond, Jenni Brooks, Hannah Ewan, Siân Hickson, David Pollock, Caroline Pretty, Keith Smith

Anteaques

17 Clerk Street, Southside, EH8 9JH (Map 3: G1, 49) 0131 667 8466, anteaques.co.uk | Thu–Sun 11am–7pm. Veg; T/A. £6 (lunch)

Fans of tea in all its forms should be sure to wend their way to this charming cafécum-antique shop for an experience few others offer. This is a place where one takes – rather than merely imbibes – tea, and it’s best to set aside a couple of hours in order to drink in the atmosphere along with the goods (telephone booking is firmly advised). The café has a nostalgic, Dickensian feel: it’s an old curiosity shop where the teatables jostle for space with old fur coats, pocket watches, oil lamps and gramophones. Tea is served with appropriate ceremony in generous amounts; a pot yields several handpainted china cups’ worth of delight. The spectrum on offer is extensive: customers choose from a rainbow of evocatively-monikered brews including sweet osmanthus, organic dragon well, white pomegranate or a delectably earthy lapsang souchong. If you get peckish, try one of the daily selection of cakes or a fistful of individually flavoured chocolates – the honey and thyme option is heartily recommended. The shop’s lack of toilet facilities is unfortunate given that diuretics are a stock-in-trade, but do not be deterred: Anteaques is a gem that’s well worth savouring. + Taking tea on the other side of the looking glass - No toilets

ArtCafe Morita

204 Canongate, Old Town, EH8 8DQ See Far East

Artisan Roast

• 57 Broughton St, New Town, EH1 3RJ (Map 1: F3, 131) 07590 590667, artisanroast.co.uk | Mon–Thu 8am–7pm; Fri 8am–6pm; Sat/Sun 10am–6pm. • 138 Bruntsﬁeld Place, West End, EH10 4ER (Map 3: A4, 24) 07590 590667, artisanroast.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–7pm; Sat–Sun 10am–7pm. £4.20 (coffee and cake)

As the roasters and distributors of Scotland’s definitive coffee, it’s impossible to see beyond either branch of Artisan Roast as your first stop for a pick-me-up coffee buzz at any time of the day. Long black, flat white, espresso, macchiato or ice cream-infused affogato, their aim is to help you – as the kitsch sign on the wall in Broughton Street’s

La Barantine: a Bruntsfield newcomer run by a French pâtisserier

rough and ready hole in the wall tells us – ‘do stupid things faster with more energy’. It’s not all about the bean, with loose-leaf teas and hot chocolate flavours including rose and black pepper or cardamom and cinnamon also featuring, but home-made cakes or Au Gourmand croissants are the only foods on offer. + Coffee nirvana - You’d better feed yourself elsewhere

Asti

73 Broughton Street, EH1 3RJ See Italian

La Barantine

202 Bruntsfield Place, Southside, EH10 4DF (Map 3: A4, 26) 0131 229 0267 | Mon– Sun 7.30am–6pm. Veg; T/A. £5.95 (set lunch)

This French café is easily filled with a handful of mix and match tables and chairs. Throw in a crowd of people and it is only a dose of Gallic bonhomie that keeps things cosy rather than cramped. Fortunately this is provided in the short menu where high quality ingredients shine in the simple soup, salad and sandwich dishes. Better still, though, are the pastries. Owner Vincent Aplincourt is a baker by trade with everything from macaroons and sweet tarts to the breads and buttery quiche lorraine, produced inhouse. Not oversweetened the pastries are superbly balanced between butteriness and lightness. What is not made is well sourced: teas from Eteaket, cheese and meat from Henri’s. Add some charming, albeit heavily accented French staff and you have a welcome addition to Bruntsfield’s already crowded café scene. + Excellent pastries - Managing to get a table in the small space

The Beach House

57 Bath Street, Portobello, EH15 1HE, 0131 657 2636, thebeachhousecafe. co.uk | Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat/Sun 9.30am–5.30pm. [Drinks and cakes only after 3.30pm]. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A. £10 (lunch)

Perfect for a warming hot chocolate in winter or a luscious ice-cream on our too-rare summer days, the Beach House manages to straddle the seasons and maximise its beachfront location at any time of year. Painted in pastel blue and dotted with seaside artefacts and artworks, this place lives up to its name, welcoming families, day trippers and people who just want a bit of peace to read a book. Soup and sandwich lunches are home-made and a little bit different – think Moroccan lentil soup and tuna mayo on seaweed sourdough bread. The cakes are arguably the main draw, however. Gooey chocolate brownies, pretty fruit tarts and dainty Victoria sponges all vie for your attention, among many others, and the accompanying coffee is all organic and fair-trade. Always busy and with a lively atmosphere, the Beach House is a cut above your average café, and the gorgeous sea view is a bonus. + Beautiful cakes, beautiful view - Service can be slow at busy times

Black Medicine Coffee Company

• 10–12 Barclay Terrace, EH10 4HP (Map 3: B2, 20) 0131 6255 630, blackmed.co.uk | Mon–Sat 8am–6pm; Sun 9am–6pm. • 2 Nicolson Street, Southside, Southside, EH8 9DH (Map 2: D4, 88) 0131 557 6269, blackmed.co.uk | Mon–Sat 8am–8pm; Sun 9am–8pm. • 108 Marchmont Road, Southside, Southside, EH9 1BG (Map 3: D4, 68) 0131 622 2660, blackmed.co.uk | Mon–Sat

8am–4.30pm; Sun 10am–4pm. Veg; Kids; T/A. £6.50 (lunch)

The big daddy of the Edinburgh caffeine scene stands out amongst its competition in the snack bar-heavy locale for its emphasis on fresh, decent food and, naturally, rather fabulous coffee. The ambience is warm and slightly eclectic: customers perch on individually sculptured natural wood seating from which you can engage in a spot of posing by the large windows, watch the hustle and bustle of the street outside or eavesdrop on the friendly chatter between staff and regulars. As might reasonably be expected, the coffee is a strong suit and bagels and panini are fresh and wholesome, smacking of intelligentlyselected ingredients. The location can be very popular, and there are moderately stern notices pertaining to visitors parking up and abusing the free wifi, but this is unquestionably a better bet than a soulless chain. + Smoky smooth brews - Can get a bit hectic

Blue Moon Café

1 Barony Street, New Town, EH3 6PD See Bistros & Brasseries

Bon Papillon

15 Howe Street, Stockbridge, EH3 6TE See Arts Venues

Brass & Copper Coffee

18 William Street, West End, EH3 7NH (Map 4: C2, 13) brassandcoppercoffee. co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–4pm. Closed Sat/ Sun. Veg; T/A. £6 (lunch)

Given the West End’s upmarket reputation and affluent surroundings, it always seemed an oversight that you couldn’t get a really good cup of coffee anywhere. Thanks to Brass and Copper,

44 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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CAFES

In association with

Edinburgh ladies who lunch can now latte too. Neat and understated, with white-washed walls doubling as a gallery space, it isn’t purely the domain of those who frequent the area’s trendy boutiques; it’s a favourite with local professionals and residents too – in fact, anyone that appreciates decent coffee. Owned and run by siblings Joel and Tara Klein (who make all the cakes, pastries and nibbles themselves), it’s very much ‘coffee with complements’ rather than full-blown café, but what little they do, they do very well indeed. Even if you’re not addicted to the roasted bean, snacks such as chorizo, mozzarella and chilli jam panini and the rich, moist sticky stem ginger cake make it worthwhile stopping by. + Top-notch coffee - Not open at the weekend

Brazilian Sensation

117–119 Buccleuch Street, Southside, EH8 9NG See Round the World

✱

Broughton Delicatessen

7 Barony Street, New Town, EH3 6PD (Map 1: F3, 126) 0131 558 7111, broughton-deli.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–7.30pm; Sat 9am–7.30pm; Sun 11am–6pm. Veg; Post; BYOB (no charge); Kids. £8 (lunch) / £9 (dinner)

It’s rare for a café to try so hard to be all things to all people and not overstretch itself. Broughton Delicatessen doesn’t disappoint, though, with its front shop selling take-out snacks like baguettes, grilled sandwiches and crepes alongside cakes, fresh bread and even olive oil, while the neat, shabby chic back room is a bright spot for a surprisingly highquality informal daytime meal. Breakfasts include a full option featuring homemade potato scones and special recipe baked beans, pancakes and maple syrup with either bacon or fruit and a highlyregarded granola while more typical main courses including a ploughman’s plate or a smoked salmon platter sit alongside a spicy, vegetable-packed Japanese ramen soup. + Quality, choice and service are all excellent - Very child-friendly, but a little tricky to navigate a pram through

Café Cassis

Salisbury Hotel, Salisbury Road, Southside, EH16 5AA See Bistros & Brasseries

Café Grande

184 Bruntsfield Pl, Southside, EH10 4DF See Bistros & Brasseries

Cafe Hub

Castlehill, Royal Mile, Old Town, EH1 2NE (Map 2: B3, 29) 0131 473 2067, thehub-edinburgh.com | Mon–Sun 9.30am–5pm. Veg; HW £14.30; Kids; Wh. £6 (set lunch)

Glowering imposingly from the very top of the High Street, the black Gothic splendour of the Hub was transformed when it became the official home of the Edinburgh International Festival, with a now entirely contemporary interior which glows with colour and light. That, plus a large, sunny terrace, means the venue itself is definitely worth a visit. The bright, spacious café prides itself on its ‘Hub-made’ credentials – practically everything is made on the premises including a toothsome array of cakes. The short menu features a popular ‘soup and sandwich’ lunch deal, and sandwich fillings can also be served over a salad or baked potato. For more substantial mains, the house burger is crumbly and satisfying, served on a fresh roll which makes a pleasing change from the ubiquitous sesame bun. Fish and chips are a good option too – flaky fish, light batter, tangy tartar sauce. It’s all very simple, yet (outside the tourist season) Cafe Hub could actually be something of a hidden gem, as it offers that holy trinity of nice grub, at a reasonable price, in beautiful surroundings. + Choc and pistachio cake - A drippy tea pot

Café Lucia

Edinburgh Festival Theatre, 13/29 Nicolson Street, Old Town, EH8 9FT See Arts Venues

Café Marina

61 Cockburn Street, Old Town, EH1 1BS (Map 2: D3, 13) 0131 622 7447 | Mon– Sat 8am–4pm; Sun 9.30am–4pm. [Bar open: Jul/Aug: Mon–Sat 8am–8pm; Sun 9.30am–8pm.] Veg; BYOB (£2); T/A. £8 (lunch)

Forget Ikea: this is where you’ll find the best meatballs in town. They’re more of a hearty sausage shape than a ball here: get them cut up in pasta or squeezed into a ciabatta for a chin-dripping panini – but whatever you do, get them. With just a couple of pretty unexciting cakes and traybakes on offer, it’s the savoury that shines here. There are some serious sandwich options on offer: chicken escalope, frittata, an arm’s-length list of meats and cheeses, but whatever you choose, you can bet the basic ingredients will be fresh and filled with flavour. Pasta and firm, smooth gnocchi combinations change daily, though are generally based on the Italian pillars of tomatoes that actually taste of tomato, fresh basil and roughly torn, stringy mozzarella. Like the coffee sourced from Italian Aroma, this is a Scottish company using traditional Italian methods to produce consistently excellent results. + Meatballs that could spark a serious addiction - Underwhelming sweet choices

Café Marlayne

13 Antigua Street, New Town, EH1 3NH See French

✱

Café Milk

232 Morrison Street, West End, EH3 8EA (Map 4: B3, 29) 0131 629 6022, cafemilk. co.uk | Mon–Fri 7.30am–5pm; Sat 8am–

4pm; Sun 8am–3pm. Veg; Kids; T/A; D. £6 (lunch)

Sporting bright white tiles, pale pastel colours and reclaimed benches, Café Milk could easily have been plucked straight from the streets of trendy Shoreditch (although thankfully there’s not a hipster in sight). But, while the interior decoration might attract plaudits, it’s the chef who truly deserves them for delivering treats such as spiced shredded pork in flatbread and Sicilian beef stew at commendable prices. An eye for seasonality means some dishes come and go throughout the year; customer favourites tend to remain, however, with the odd tweak as appropriate. With virtually everything, from the chutney in the flatbreads to the cakes on the counter, made fresh on the premises, the menu’s understandably not huge, but the assortment of sandwiches, salads and hot dishes – many with a hint of Eastern inspiration – is certainly enticing, and half-a-dozen or so brunch options swell the selection for early birds. + Discovering a new favourite haunt - Bagging a spot on the former church pews might be tricky

✱ HITLIST CAFES ✱ Broughton Delicatessen From breakfast to knocking-off time and all weekend too, this exemplary deli, diner and takeaway business has the lot. ✱ Café Milk Effortlessly cool surroundings, genuinely friendly staff and healthy, tasty food at a good price make this a little café worth cherishing.

Café Modern One

✱ Earthy Market Café Vibrant, verdant salads, high-quality ingredients and impressive local and organic sourcing, all in an original, garden-themed café.

Café Modern Two

✱ Edinburgh Larder Play ‘spot the food hero’ with Eleanor Cunningham’s delightful menu. You’ll never be bored of soup and a sarnie again.

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art One, 75 Belford Road, West End, EH4 3DR See Arts Venues

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art Two, 73 Belford Road, West End, EH4 3DS See Arts Venues

Café Nom de Plume

60 Broughton Street, New Town, EH1 3SA (Map 1: F3, 121) 0131 478 1372 | Mon–Sat 11am–10.30pm; Sun noon– 10.30pm. Veg; HW £14; Kids. £7.50 (lunch) / £7.50 (dinner)

Set upstairs from the Edinburgh LGBT Centre and owned by the same team behind the Regent pub, Café Nom de Plume is a gay and lesbian-friendly business and a relaxed hangout for all walks of Broughton life. The décor is a warm and welcoming jumble of shabby chic design and North African flourishes, while the menu is a whistle-stop tour of the world that only just manages to avoid over-extending itself. In the nibbles category, the German bockwurst is a slightly bland arrangement of pre-packed sausage, red cabbage sauerkraut and rye bread, but the French onion soup is rich in wine flavour and the saltiness of the crouton. Mains include hearty liver and onions with colcannon mash, substantial lamb kofta meatballs and a decent vegetarian selection including ‘mushroom nom’ – a puff pastry mushroom and tarragon sauce pie. + The menu is expansive and largely well-delivered - License doesn’t permit children

✱ Falko Konditormeister Seriously fine cakes with the attention to detail only a German master baker could manage. ✱ Manna House A first-rate bakery, patisserie and savoury food shop whose excellence and cheap prices draw pilgrims from every corner of the city. ✱ Porto & Fi A stone’s throw from Newhaven Harbour, this café-bistro offers quality food and excellent service, and now has a big brother bistro up in the Old Town. ✱ Valvona & Crolla Elm Row’s upmarket Italian delicatessen and café has already written its name into Edinburgh food folklore, but its standards rarely slip. ✱ Word of Mouth Great food, ethical sourcing and themed film and open mic nights add up to a local café whose qualities deserve more than just the neighbours’ attention.

Café Portrait

Scottish National Portrait Gallery, 1 Queen Street, New Town, EH2 1JD See Arts Venues

Café Renroc

91 Montgomery Street, New Town, EH7 5HZ (Map 1: H3, off) 0131 556 0432, caferenrocnevohealth.co.uk | Mon–Wed 8.30am–6pm; Thu–Sat 8.30am–9pm; Sun 10am–6pm. Veg; HW £11.95; Kids; T/A. £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

Open from early in the morning until late, this corner café is the heart of its very own little local scene and a hub for Hillsiders, with frequent live music,

poetry and story-telling evenings, even featuring – of all things – a beauty salon downstairs. The ground floor is light but quite cramped, although the handful of outdoor seating makes a lovely suntrap on warmer days, especially given their modest but respectable selection of wines and beers (draught and bottled). The basement level is quite different: largely black, scarlet and stone, there’s a hint of gothic dungeon about it. Food is simple and straightforward, like panini stuffed with chorizo, mozzarella and sun-dried tomato chutney, with familiar favourites like lasagne and moussaka available too. The List Eating & Drinking Guide 45

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SANDWICH BARS

list.co.uk

Edinburgh

EDINBURGH

SANDWICH BARS Appetite Direct

42 Howe Street, New Town, EH3 6TH (Map 1: C4, 42) 0131 225 3711, appetitedirect.com | Mon–Thu 8.30am– 6pm; Fri 8.30am–4pm; Sat 9am–5pm; Closed Sun.

Most of Appetite Direct’s business is outside catering, from small private dinners to weddings and gallery openings, and their shop is no run-of-the mill deli. Every day their small kitchen produces several curries, quiches, interesting seasonal veg and salads, a daily pizza, roast with all the trimmings, as well as stacks of sandwiches and wraps. The deli counter has recently expanded to offer more artisan cheeses, charcuterie, olives, fresh loaves, smoked salmon and wine, while careful local sourcing is an important part of the ethos.

The Baked Potato Shop

56 Cockburn Street, Old Town, EH1 1PB (Map 2: D3, 15) 0131 225 7572 | Mon–Sun 9am–9pm. See Vegetarian

Bollywood: The Coffee Box

99a Bruntsfield Place, Southside, EH10 4HG See Indian

Caffe Espresso

15 Bank Street, Old Town, EH1 2LN (Map 2: C3, 25) 0131 220 4400 | Mon–Fri 8am–4.30pm; Sat 11am–5pm. Closed Sun. [Winter: closed Sat.]

The Brits might love to queue, but there’s got to be a good reason. So when you see a gaggle of solicitors, judges and students patiently waiting to reach the counter of this galley-like Italian café, you might want to get in line. Have they come for grandma’s classic minestrone soup or for son Stephano’s number 9 foccacia, filled with mortadella, provolone and sun blush tomatoes. Whether it’s one of the many types of bread, the fresh soup, pastas or home-made cakes, you can be assured that Mama Piera won’t sell anything that doesn’t meet the standards of the family’s home cooking. The premises might be small, but with orders being shouted in Italian and the occasional impromptu song and dance, this place is big on both character and flavour.

do with owner Serkan Cinar’s chirpy,, chatty counterside manner. The rest iss explained by Serkan’s shiny cabinet stocked with rounds of goats cheese, fresh guacamole, rosy sun blushed tomatoes and pots of other things to ct tie you in knots deciding on the perfect combination. Each day there are also a couple of different soups and a pastaa t-in dish, but only a small range of bought-in cakes and pastries.

New Town Deli

• 42 Broughton Street, EH1 3SA (Map p 1: li. F3, 7) 0131 558 3837, thenewtowndeli. pm; com | Mon–Fri 7am–4pm; Sat 8am–4pm; Sun 9am–3.30pm. 3 • 23 Henderson Row, New Town, EH3 5DH (Map 1: C2, 5) 0131 622 7090, – thenewtowndeli.com | Mon–Fri 7am– 4pm; Sat 8am–4pm; Sun 9am–4pm.

A central communal table and low cube be o seating lend a convivial atmosphere to te the New Town Deli’s bright corner site on Henderson Row, while tall stools at the windows provide functional perches to watch the world go by. Thee deli counter’s the focus of the space, laden with an array of cheeses, meats and salads to create classic sandwich style combinations such as the New York-style n, or pastrami, smoked cheese and gherkin, de to mix and match. Hot choices include burgers, burritos, baked potatoes and a genuinely spicy peri-peri chicken pitta, with the banana loaf the pick off er the limited cake selection. The smaller re Broughton Street branch offers a more concise menu including soup, stovies and sandwiches.

Oink

34 Victoria Street, Old Town, EH1 2JW (Map 2: C3, 26) 07771 968 233, oinkhogroast.co.uk | Mon–Sun 11am– 5pm.

3 Viewforth Gardens , Bruntsfield, West End, EH10 4ET (Map 3: A3, 31) 0131 228 5282, thetattieshop.co.uk | Mon–Sun 9am–9pm (baked potatoes from 11am).

68 Haymarket Terrace, West End, EH12 5LQ See Cafés

Embo

Global Deli

13 George IV Bridge, Old Town, EH1 1EE (Map 2: C4, 52) 0131 220 3690 | Mon–Fri 7am–5pm; Sat/Sun 9am–5pm.

There are lots of places to get a panini and a cup of soup in the studenty heart of Edinburgh and an awful lot that serve lacklustre lunches from the sandwich conveyor belt. Global Deli has locals so regular they don’t need to bother giving their order anymore when they walk in, which will have something to

41 Morningside Road, Southside, EH10 4DR See Cafés

The Tattie Shop

Cucina LC

29 Haddington Place, Leith Walk, New Town, EH7 4AG See Cafés

Rocket Café

The concept is simple: soft white or brown roll, haggis or sage and onion stuffing, chilli or apple sauce. A great pile of sweet, succulent roast pork straight from the pig in the window is mandatory as are plenty of napkins. Pork comes from Reston Farm in the Scottish Borders, and with even the pig feed produced by the Marshall family, there are no worrying provenance questions to consider. With just a window seat and a couple of stools on site this is no-frills food on the go, but for a rib-sticking roll that’s comforting in both taste and happy pig origin, it’s hard to beat.

As the name suggests, these guys know their tubers. Oven-baked, the spuds feature well-fired skins and soft, squidgy insides, as if they’ve been scooped out and replaced with creamy mash instead. Fillings range from humble jacket potato standards like cheese and beans to more imaginative (and virtually all home-made) fillings, such as stew and mini dumplings. And if you can’t face the cooker after work, it’s also open in the evenings – a healthier alternative for takeaway dinner.

weeks after opening Edinburgh’s first first soup café last year. No matter how popular the little shop with just eight seats, she won’t expand the bite-sized menu, preferring to do one thing well. Six soups are chalked up, all relying as much as possible on local veg. They might include chorizo caldo verde or Lebanese lentil, lemon and spinach, but probably not: three are seasonal, three dailies. Before 11am, soup is swapped for porridge pots, with your choice of 10 toppings. Don’t forget to bring your Vegware packaging back for composting to get loyalty points.

The Zulu Lounge

366 Morningside Road, Southside, EH10 4QN See Cafés

Tupiniquim

The Green Police Box, , Middle Meadow Walk,, Lauriston Place, Old Town, EH1 9AU (Map 2: C5, 66) , tupiniquim.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–6pm; Sat 10am–4pm. Closed Sun. See Round the World

Union of Genius

8 Forrest Road, Old Town, EH1 2QN (Map 2: C5, 63) 0131 226 4436, unionofgenius.com | Mon–Fri 9am–4pm.

Elaine Mason had regulars just two

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CAFES

In association with

For a quick vitamin fix, look no further than the mixed berry smoothie, which seems to contain your recommended fruit intake for an entire week. At the time of writing, plans for change are afoot, but how significant they are remain to be seen. + Friendly local café, suitable for any time of day - The occasional waft of beauty products while you’re eating

Café Truva

• 251–253 Canongate, Old Town, EH8 8BQ (Map 2: E3, 115) 0131 556 9524, cafetruva.com | Mon–Sun 8.30am–7pm. • 46–52 Lady Lawson Street, Tollcross, EH3 9DW (Map 2: A5, 42) 0131 629 5057, cafetruva.com | Mon–Sun 8am–6.30pm. Veg; HW £15.50; T/A. £10.50 (lunch) / £10.50 (dinner) • 77 The Shore, Leith, EH6 6RG (Map 5: C4, 36) 0131 554 5502, cafetruva.com | Mon–Sun 8am–6pm. Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; T/A. £10.50 (lunch) / £10.50 (dinner)

You can now pop in for the same Café Truva Mediterranean menu at three branches across Edinburgh. Leith, Lady Lawson Street and Canongate are all serving Turkish plates, a wide range of cakes and your usual café panini list against a varyingly elaborate backdrop of wooden panelling, colourful crockery and beautifully ornate light fittings. The small, happily located Shore branch is the original, and has been serving excellent Turkish coffee for well over a decade now. The quality throughout the menu is variable, with more success to be found among the cakes – the honey-soaked, nut-laced baklava, kadaif and shamali are all made on site – than some of the main dishes, which tend towards the expensive for what you get. Borek (spinach and feta stuffed filo pastry) is heavy with cheese, and the meze plate highlights some weak ingredients which translate into thin flavours. Transparent tomatoes, vinegary dolmades and grainy olives are a giveaway of poor sourcing. The glutenfree chocolate almond tart is glorious, however, and good hot chocolate will satisfy young and old. + Turkish apple tea from a tea bag is a let down - Proper Turkish delight served with great Turkish coffee

Caffe Espresso

15 Bank Street, Old Town, EH1 2LN See Sandwich Bars feature

Centotre

103 George Street, New Town, EH2 3ES See Italian

La Cerise

199 Great Junction Street, Leith, EH6 5LQ (Map 5: B5, 40) 0131 555 6065, lacerise.biz | Mon–Fri 8am–6pm. Closed Sat/Sun. Veg; Kids; T/A. £5.50 (lunch)

La Cerise stands out like a beacon amid Leith’s bustling melting pot and is well worth a visit for anyone with a discerning palate and a sweet tooth. Inside, an attractive cake cabinet displays homemade patisserie such as deluxe praline gateaux, truly fine pear and almond tarts, and individual mango mousses topped with pretty fruits. Equally tempting, however, is La Cerise’s own range of artisan, award-winning ice-creams, which are not only delicious but come virtually guilt-free due to the use of high quality, low fat ingredients. The sherbets and sorbets sing with real fruits while the coconut and vanilla are creamy, smooth and light. Should you require a prelude to the sweet stuff, soup, sandwiches, hot daily specials and a lively deli counter provide the necessary savouries.

Although the seating’s a little cramped, this good value local is a great spot for watching Leith’s colourful characters go by. + Exceptional home-made ice cream - Limited space for sitting down

The Chocolate Tree

123 Bruntsfield Place, Southside, EH10 4EQ (Map 3: A4, 23) 0131 228 3144, the-chocolate-tree.co.uk | Mon–Sat 8am–8pm; Sun 9am–8pm. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £8 (lunch)

There is a definite hippy vibe here with the mismatched furniture, bare wood and colourful, hand-made signs. This is the good side of hippydom, though, with a dedication to the local community that has seen them resist the temptation to move to bigger premises outside Bruntsfield. Additionally, while most things are made inhouse, those that aren’t are sourced locally: coffee comes from Artisan Roast just across the road. Spanish-style hot chocolate may be a bit too sweet but the accompanying churros are cooked to order, keeping their light, fresh texture. A wide selection of loose leaf teas provides a lighter alternative to the hot chocolate and cakes but this is very much a destination for those seeking a sugar rush. Service can be a tad too relaxed but overall the hippy charm makes it hard not to warm to this place. + Easygoing charm - Sugar levels could be toned down

Circle Café

1 Brandon Terrace, Canonmills, New Town, EH3 5AE (Map 1: C1, 5) 0131 624 4666, thecirclecafe.com | Mon–Wed 8.30am–4.30pm; Thu–Sat 8.30am–10pm; Sun 9am–4.30pm. Veg; HW £15.95; Kids; T/A. £8.50 (set lunch)

Behind the sleek glass frontage, Circle’s stylish interior features lofty ceilings, bare brick walls and galvanised metal and wood furniture. But all those hard edges can mean that a noisy clatter replaces the convivial buzz when it’s busy, which is often during the week and always for weekend brunches. A menu of café staples and more substantial bistro-style dishes such as butternut and pea risotto or cassoulet of chicken, pork and herb sausage is prepared entirely from scratch to a high standard, while service is as slick and polished as the gleaming counter full of classic and original cakes. There’s no denying Circle’s a great all-rounder and wellsited for Botanics visits or Water of Leith walks, although families may find seating and changing facilities for junior patrons somewhat limited. + Brilliant for brunch - Getting a table at weekends

Circus

Fine food for art lovers

great sourced, prepared from scratch and served with love

Café Modern One Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art ( Modern One) 75 Belford Road, Edinburgh EH4 3DR Open 7 days 10am – 5pm Monday to Friday access to café from 9am – 10am through the garden gate

Café Modern Two Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (Modern Two) 73 Belford Road, Edinburgh EH4 3DS T: 0131 624 6273 Open 7 days 10am – 5pm Reservations for lunch & afternoon tea (Café Modern Two only)

City Art Centre Café

Café Portrait The Scottish National Portrait Gallery

Coffee Angel

1 Queen Street, Edinburgh EH2 1JD Open 7 days 10am – 5pm (7pm Thursday)

8 St Mary’s Street, Old Town, EH1 1SU See Round the World

City Art Centre, 1 Market Street, Old Town, EH1 1DE See Arts Venues

24–27 Brandon Terrace, New Town, EH3 5DZ (Map 1: C2, 7) 0131 622 6235, coffee-angel.co.uk | Mon–Fri 7.30am– 7pm; Sat 8.30am–7pm; Sun 10am–7pm. [Winter: closes 6pm]. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A. £5.50 (lunch)

Facing stiff competition in this busy corner of Canonmills, Coffee Angel sets itself apart from its near neighbours by offering a great range of ready to go sandwiches, salads and cakes. The seating area with comfy sofas is pleasant enough and there are more tables outside

food surroundings service

Heritage Portfolio Ltd HPLEvents

www.heritageportfolio.co.uk

Three great cafés by Heritage Portfolio

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Edinburgh for good weather or hardy souls. At the counter, classy combinations like flaked salmon, egg and horseradish sit alongside more workaday fillings in breads from bagels to baguettes to brioches. The stand-out drinks menus offer imaginative seasonal specials such as chilli hot chocolate or dark cherry mocha in winter and iced versions in summer, as well as the more traditional caffeine fixes alongside smoothies and shakes. + Creative coffees and hot drinks - Seating area lacks a little character

Cucina LC

68 Haymarket Terrace, West End, EH12 5LQ (Map 4: A3, off) 0131 467 2671 | Mon– Fri 7.30am–4pm. Closed Sat/Sun. Veg; Wh; T/A; D. £7.50 (lunch)

The initials LC come from the owner’s name (Lorena Crolla), but they could just as easily stand for ‘Lotta Choice’ considering the amount of items on the menu here. Including Asian, Italian and Scottish elements, there are almost 40 sandwich combinations on offer, while a dozen-or-so salads make for a popular choice for the health-conscious or those looking to save on calories before tackling the café’s own hazelnut-topped éclairs or fiendishly rich chocolate torte. For the very hungry, the specials are a good bet: a hefty chunk of asparagus, mozzarella and Parmesan quiche comes with mountains of potato salad, crispy leaves and an impressive apple and beetroot coleslaw. White print wallpaper and the large glass storefront make for a bright and pleasant, albeit small space. The layout – and table service – means the takeaway side of things doesn’t overly impinge on seated customers’ comfort though.

+ Plenty of choice . . - . . . could spell trouble for the

indecisive

Cuckoo’s Bakery

150 Dundas Street, New Town, EH3 5DQ (Map 1: C2, 11) 0131 556 6224, cuckoosbakery.co.uk | Tue–Thu 10am–5.30pm; Fri/Sat 10am–6pm; Sun 11am–5pm. Closed Mon. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £8 (lunch)

Although first and foremost a cupcake bakery, Cuckoo’s is a refreshing antidote to the mimsy, chintzy image of this most feminine of foodstuffs. The clean, crisp interior houses tightly spaced tables without a blousy tiered cakestand in sight. Instead, the stunning range of sugary goodies (baked fresh from 4am every morning) are presented in a vintage glass case and served on cool bespoke crockery from contemporary ceramicists Parasite. A solid savoury menu of soups, warm croissants and doorstep sandwiches is also available and the drinks selection is top notch too, with Artisan Roast coffees and loose leaf teas including a bakewell-esque cherry and almond version, just in case the cakes aren’t cakey enough. Returning takeaway cake customers note, you get ten percent off if you reuse the box from your last visit. + The cupcakes: so pretty, so yummy, so many - Table spacing is rather intimate

Cuthberts Coffee & Bistro

94a Fountainbridge, West End, EH3 9QA (Map 4: D4, 36) 0131 228 1070, cuthbertscoffee.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am– 5pm; Sat/Sun 10.30am–5pm. BYOB (£3); Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £6.95 (set lunch)

Housed in the ground floor of an elegant B-listed building (the former St Cuthbert’s Co-Operative Society headquarters, from which the café takes its name), the converted frontage of Cuthberts is impressive. Huge plate glass windows mean the morning light engulfs the interior space, the sunbeams a welcome additional topping on your French toast. Inside its theatrical meets industrial; a scarlet-pink feature wall, chandeliers and plush black drapes collide with exposed structural elements of stone and metal, which go some

Loudon’s Café & Bakery (page 51): keeping it real in Fountainbridge

way to tempering the opulence. Recent changes have seen the gargantuan menu scaled back somewhat, and this focused approach has worked wonders, meaning dishes like the wonderfully thick and creamy macaroni cheese benefit from that little extra care and attention. Friday movie nights remain, though, so you can still enjoy Hollywood classics, complete with buffet, straight after work. Just remember to bring your own wine. + A movie and dinner all in one place - A bit pricey

Dovecot Café by Stag Espresso

Dovecot Studios, 10 Infirmary Street, Old Town, EH1 1LT See Arts Venues

Drill Hall Arts Café

34 Dalmeny Street, Leith, EH6 8RG See Arts Venues

Earthy Canonmills

Kids = Children’s portions served and other facilities available.

1–6 Canonmills Bridge, Stockbridge, EH3 5LF See Bistros & Brasseries

Wh = Wheelchair access and disabled toilet.

✱

T/A = Takeaway food. D = Delivery. Price in bold = Average cost of a two-course evening meal for one. The price of a set lunch is shown; otherwise we show the average cost of a two-course lunch for one. For full explanations see page 4.

Earthy Market Café

33–41 Ratcliffe Terrace, Southside, EH9 1SX (Map 3: H5, 66) 0131 667 2967, earthy.co.uk | Mon–Fri 9am–6pm; Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 10am–5pm. Veg; Kids; T/A. £12.50 (lunch)

With reclaimed wood panelling and rustic hues, this converted warehouse could easily be the set for a new Channel 4 cookery show (you half-expect to see Jamie or Hugh pottering about). Thankfully though, like the food market upstairs, the style doesn’t feel overly manufactured. The menu changes daily,

right down to the sandwich fillings, in an attempt to exploit the freshest, tastiest ingredients available and display counter dishes like rainbow beetroot, walnuts and wild garlic or a cranberry and cauliflower couscous, awash with vibrant, verdant colours, lure you in seductively. The mixed salad plate is a good way to negotiate any resulting indecision, while a beef, pistachio and chilli kofte with ground chermoula and pea yoghurt tastes as good as it sounds. Virtually everything’s organic, local and free-range and there’s a discernible difference in quality accordingly. It’s not the cheapest – perfecting provenance comes at a price – but for many it’s a price worth digging into your pocket for. Of note are summer 2012 plans to to create a vegetable garden with options to be able to eat in the very polytunnels where the salads have bloomed. + Healthy, tasty, guilt-free food - Could offer freshly-made juices or smoothies

✱

Edinburgh Larder

15 Blackfriars Street, Old Town, EH1 1NB (Map 2: D3, 96) 0131 556 6922, edinburghlarder.co.uk | Mon–Sat 8am– 5pm; Sun 9am–5pm. LC; Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £5.95 (set lunch)

Tucked just off the Royal Mile, Eleanor Cunningham’s café features a menu that’s a roll call of Scottish food heroes. From Creelers’ smoked salmon to Great Glen venison, Rannoch smoked chicken and Cunningham’s mum’s jam and dad’s chutneys, everything has been handpicked for meticulously high standards and consistent deliciousness. Seasonally-changing fillings in the

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Au Gourmand artisan bread make for difficult sandwich choices year-round, and the salads, deli plates and daily changing specials will only add to the dilemma. Luckily, everything you can’t fit into lunch is available to buy from the counter, and on Saturdays that includes the much sought-after bread. Of the daily-baked sweets look out for glutenfree brownies or a rich dark chocolate slice studded with ginger, apricots and nuts as well as beautiful locally handmade chocolates. Drinks are equally well-considered and include Eteaket tea and artisan roast coffee, and, apart from the wine, the modest selection of alcohol is exclusively Scottish. Summer 2012 promises the opening of a sister branch – though more of a bistro with evening opening – in the West End. + Almost everything made on site with peerless ingredients - There’s often a wait at lunchtime to be served

Elaine’s Cuppa Cake

18 South Clerk Street, Southside, EH8 9PR (Map 3: H2, 55) 0131 629 0646 | Mon–Fri 8am–8.30pm; Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 9.30am–5pm. Veg; Kids; T/A. £6 (lunch)

Situated in the heart of student-heavy South Clerk Street, this recent opening is a good choice for those in need of reasonably-priced classic café fare done well. The décor is still evolving behind the bright stack of teapots in the window: Starbucks it ain’t, and thank the lord for it. All the baking is home-made and the very reasonable priced afternoon tea lasts all day – £8 will furnish two of you with sandwiches, cakes, scones and coffee or tea on the side, though caution on the tea intake is advised as there aren’t any toilets. Save room for sublimely fluffy pancakes with either bacon or freshly chopped bananas and maple syrup or scarf down a tasty soup. An unpretentious eaterie in which the eponymous Elaine makes a staunch effort to create a homely atmosphere, whether that be nattering on the state of the roads to weary travellers or nipping out to buy gluten-free bread for a coeliac customer. + Delish sticky pancakes - No toilets

Embo

29 Haddington Place, Leith Walk, New Town, EH7 4AG (Map 1: H2, 154) 0131 652 3880, embo-deli.com | Mon–Fri 8am–4pm; Sat 9am–4.30pm. Closed Sun. Veg; Kids; T/A; D. £8 (lunch)

With more than a decade’s history as a top o’ the Walk fixture, Embo is the kind of place which has established a personal touch for its regulars. Owner and head cook Mike Marshall knows them by name and their orders by heart, and it’s this which lends the place much of its appeal. The food’s not half bad either, though: filled rolls and wraps packed with chicken, cheese, salsa and jalapenos (the ‘Mexican’) or Parma ham, pesto and mozzarella, alongside home-made soups including Thai squash and spicy tomato. Breakfasts include rolls, wraps, muesli and Belhaven smoked trout with scrambled eggs and pesto on toast, while special treats include an amazing feta and spinach scone and chocolate brownies made by ‘the lady at the church’. + Excellent customer service - Steep steps at the front door

Empires

24 St Mary’s Street, Old Town, EH1 1SU See Round the World

The Engine Shed

19 St Leonards Lane, Southside, EH8 9SD See Vegetarian

Eteaket

41 Frederick Street, New Town, EH2 1EP (Map 1: C5, 74) 0131 226 2982, eteaket. co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–7pm; Sat 8am–7pm; Sun 10am–7pm. Veg; Kids; T/A. £10 (lunch)

Eteaket has a target market and lads, you’re not it. From the pop-vintage hot pink chairs to the powder blue tea menus, this tea boutique is best for tête-à-têtes over a cuppa and cake. The extensive drinks menu is full of pretty things to drink, from the surprisingly enjoyable Chocolate Abyss (yes, that’s chocolate and black tea in the same cup) to heady chai tea lattes, or artisan roast coffee served in mismatched floral china. A varied afternoon tea of cute mini patisseries, sarnies and great big scones with Devonshire clotted cream comes laid out on vintage cake-stands, or for lunch the ham, Lockerbie cheddar and Bramley apple chutney panini is a hit. Less successfully, chicken salad is choked with mayonnaise, and the great things promised by carrot and chocolate cakes are marred by hints of staleness. Well-intentioned service is sometimes overwhelmed by peak time popularity, but it remains a charming spot. + Well thought out and beautifully served range of teas - Style over substance when it comes to some of the food

NEW012 2 FO R G O KIDSEE! FR

✱ Falko (Konditormeister)

185 Bruntsfield Place, Southside, EH10 4DG (Map 3: A4, 30) 0131 656 0763, falko. co.uk | Wed–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 10am–5pm. Closed Mon/Tue. Veg; T/A; D. £9 (lunch)

A firm fixture on Edinburgh’s foodie scene Falko continues to deliver goods be it rye breads, pastries or some of the finest, traditional cakes outside of central Europe. Produced to strict standards, no raising agents are used in the cakes, only beaten egg whites and the Black Forest gateau includes a minimum of ten per cent Kirsch in its whipped cream. If you can find a table (by no means guaranteed) then there are also options such as ham and cheese platters available from a short but well executed menu. The small space manages to feel neither cramped nor cluttered due to its crisp, clean interior with little quirks such as the antique bicycle and army helmet preventing it from feeling sterile. + Unmissable cakes - Tables fill up quickly, especially at weekends

Foodies at Holyrood

67 Holyrood Road, Old Town, EH8 8AU (Map 2: F3, 114) 0131 557 6836, foodiesatholyrood.com | Apr–Sep: Mon– Fri 7.30am–6pm; Sat/Sun 10am–5pm. Oct–Mar: closes 5pm. Veg; HW £12.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £6.95 (set lunch)

At first glance, this airy, light-filled café seems a touch out of the way. But factor in the tourist draws of Dynamic Earth and Holyrood Palace, as well as politicians popping over the road for their daily bread, and you’ll understand why it’s generally packed out for lunch. None of this would count for a thing if the quality weren’t so reliable. Local touches are welcome – chutneys and sauces from Craigie’s South Queensferry farm, for example, and liberal quantities of Dunsyre Blue in the cheese, walnut and pear salad. Bread is satisfyingly good and almost everything is home-made. Hilariously large cake portions are generally good quality, though a succulent slice of honey and almond is the clear winner over a disappointingly dry chunk of chocolate. + Having half your cake (to take home in box) and eating it too - Cake quality needs to match quantity

Taste the best of Scotland this summer 6-8 JULY 2012 – THE MEADOWS Create your own gourmet menu at Scotland’s greatest pop-up restaurant festival. Sample outstanding dishes from 16 of the country’s best restaurants, explore fine food and wine from top producers and perfect your cooking skills with tips from the professionals. Celebrate summer in style with Taste of Edinburgh, the culinary event of the year.

Find out more at tasteofedinburgh.co.uk or call 0871 297 0742

Show times and dates correct at time of promotion. Any date changes will be communicated in advance and reflected in replacement tickets.

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Edinburgh The French Fancies

42 London Street, New Town, EH3 6LX (Map 1: E3, 135) 0131 558 1002, thefrenchfancies.com | Mon–Sat 8am– 6pm; Sun 10am–4pm. Kids; T/A. £6.50 (lunch)

This charming basement café, run by a couple from Lyon, proves that although the French take their food seriously, they know how to have fun with it too. The front room acts as both shop and takeaway, the owners selling their very own preserves, biscuits and familymade saucisson, as well as typical Gallic snacks such as fougasse (stuffed bread pockets, similar to calzone). Alternatively, you can sit in and enjoy them at your leisure in the familyfriendly back room, complete with play area and plenty of toys suitable for wee ones. That’ll also give you the chance to fully appreciate the leaf teas (bedecked in cutesy cosies) and strong coffee. A mouth-watering selection of home-made cakes and pastries includes rhum baba, mini-macaroons and delicious tarts, all baked from secret family recipes passed down the generations. Just prepare

TIPList FOR COFFEE • Artisan Roast They set the bar, and keep it high 44 • Brass & Copper Coffee with complements in the West End 44 • Coffee Angel The heavenly side of the dark stuff 47 • Dovecot Café by Stag Espresso With an artistic touch 17 • The Fruitmarket Gallery Café A team that knows good coffee 17 • Leo’s Beanery Mean beans in the New Town 51 • Sprio It’s the Italian way 53 • Wellington Coffee Coffee obsessives, keeping it simple

yourself for repeat visits in the name of ‘research’ to fully explore the range. + The rich and potent dark chocolate tart - The ‘sauna’ next door

The Fruitmarket Gallery Café Fruitmarket Gallery, 45 Market Street, Old Town, EH1 1DF See Arts Venues

Gaia Delicatessen

32 Crighton Place, Leith Walk, Leith, EH7 4NY (Map 1: H2, off) 07817 037 868 | Mon–Fri 8.30am–6pm; Sat 9.30am–6pm; Sun 11am–4pm. Veg; BYOB (no charge); T/A; D. £6.50 (lunch)

The bustle is infectious in Leith Walk café Gaia, as various members of the Dragotta family busy themselves preparing food behind the counter. A family-run Sicilian delicatessen and café, everything here is home-made from scratch, including various meaty pasta dishes which can either be heated up on the small but comfortable premises or taken home in their containers for later, fresh salads topped with braesola or mozzarella, and hearty thick daily soups. Meat or vegetarian rice balls are a special treat while shelves of dry goods are imported from Italy and the Sicilian Feast is the next best thing to evening takeaway – a dinner’s worth of food prepared to phoned-in specifications and taken home to reheat in the evening. + A friendly welcome and hearty, homemade food - Could do with new menus on the tables

The Gateway Restaurant

John Hope Gateway Centre, Royal Botanic Garden, Arboretum Place, Inverleith, EH3 5LR (Map 1: A1, off) 0131 552 2674, gatewayrestaurant.net | Mon– Sun 10am–5.15pm. Veg; HW £15.95; Kids; Wh. £11.50 (lunch)

Although lacking the panoramic views of its sister venue, the Terrace Café, the restaurant in the Botanics’ gleaming new John Hope Gateway enjoys a pleasant outlook over the Biodiversity Garden, especially from the lovely al fresco tables on its sweeping deck. The sit-down menu includes classic Caesar and Nicoise salads, chunky sandwiches served with potato wedges, more substantial seasonal mains and a Sunday carvery. Platters of fish, charcuterie or vegetable antipasti are good to share but it’s the afternoon tea (at a rather reasonable £8.25 per person) that seems to draw the crowds from 2.30pm onwards. Impressive architecture and hand-crafted wooden furniture, however, doesn’t disguise the sense of corporate catering. + Civilised dining this fantastic venue deserves

The Beach House (page 44): brightening up any day at Portobello beach - Some lighter food options wouldn’t

go amiss

Glass & Thompson

2 Dundas Street, New Town, EH3 6HZ (Map 1: D4, 39) 0131 557 0909 | Mon–Sat 8.30am–5.30pm; Sun 10.30am–4.30pm. Veg; HW £15.40; Kids; T/A. £8.75/£10.75 (set lunch)

Ask proprietor Russell Glass nicely and he might show you the copy of Alexander McCall Smith’s novel The Forgotten Affairs of Youth he keeps behind the counter, the one in which he and his café make a cameo appearance on page 173. It’s not an unlikely place in which to find them, so definitively New Town is this long-standing tea shop and café. Glass holds court behind a counter stuffed with sweet and savoury choices, including tarts of ricotta and pine nut or ham, gruyere and tomato, satisfyingly cheesy vegetable pasta and ingredients for Greek salad, a cheese plate or a New York-style deli selection of pastrami, gherkins, mustard and bread. The falafels are a little dry but the chicken liver pâté is a delight, while the selection of traybakes and sweet tarts is plentiful. + A classic New Town institution - New Town prices to match

Global Deli

13 George IV Bridge, Old Town, EH1 1EE See Sandwich Bars feature

The Haven EXTENSIVE MENU OF HOME COOKED FOOD WITH A MODERN AND INNOVATIVE TWIST Salads • Soups • Toasted Paninis and Wraps Baked potatoes • Tarts • Daily specials • • • •

Freshly home baked cakes and desserts Free range, organic and fairtrade Cafe, deli, takeaway and outside catering Illy coffee

OPEN MON-FRI FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND SNACKS 68 Haymarket Terrace 0131 467 2671

9 Anchorfield, Leith, EH6 4JG, 0131 467 7513, havencafe.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–5pm; Sat/Sun 9am–5pm. Veg; Kids; T/A. £7 (lunch)

Between Leith’s gentrified Shore area and Newhaven Harbour lies an unremarkable industrial stretch dominated by Chancelot Mill. This unlikely setting hasn’t put off café newcomer Natalie Kwek one bit, however, and it’s here that she’s created a lovely new space out of an old greasy spoon. Original cornicing, vintage objects and mismatched furniture restore character, while highbacked comfy armchairs around the fireplace make The Haven feel like a

homely, inviting living room. Food is straightforward, fresh and attractive, focused on all-day breakfasts and home baking which is all done on site in a tiny open kitchen. Out come cute cupcakes after stacked sandwich cakes, artily iced biscuits followed by super-sweet traybakes like raspberry cheesecake brownies. Add to that pancakes with maple syrup and huge scones made fresh every day, and you have just part of the reason why a new clientele is discovering this part of town. + Like going to tea at grandma’s - That view ain’t pretty

Henderson’s @ St John’s

St John’s Terrace, 3 Lothian Road, West End, EH1 2EP See Vegetarian

Henri of Edinburgh

• 376 Morningside Road, Morningside, Southside, EH10 5HX (Map 3: A5, off) 0131 447 8877 • 48 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge, Stockbridge, EH4 1HL (Map 1: A3, 10) 0131 332 8963, henrisofedinburgh. co.uk | Mon–Sat 9am–7.30pm; Sun 9.30–5.30pm. Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £9 (lunch) / £9 (dinner)

French deli Henri is well established in Morningside, but 2012 brings a new dimension with the opening of a much more spacious wine bar and café in Stockbridge. The deli counter still sells an impressive range of cheeses, charcuterie and dried goods from their weekly French deliveries as well as, for example, Spanish hams and Black Isle beer, but now the café offers sit-in cheese and meat plates as well as light snacks. These include a classic French onion soup, a Comté and spring onion sourdough toastie and a baguette filled with saucisson and alpine raclette cheese, while the verre de vin wine preservation system also allows more varieties to be sold by the glass. Naturally, it’s croissants for breakfast. + Gallic authenticity throughout - The new grey colour scheme takes a little getting used to

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Edinburgh Home Bistro

41 West Nicolson Street, Southside, EH8 9DB See Bistros & Brasseries

Hula Juice Bar and Gallery 103–105 West Bow, Old Town, EH1 2JP (Map 2: B4, 43) 0131 220 1121, hulajuicebar.co.uk | Mon–Sun 8am – 6pm. Veg; Kids; T/A; D. £5 (set lunch)

Tucked just around the corner from the Grassmarket’s rugby pubs and walking tours is the refreshing – in more ways than one – Hula Juice Bar. Tropical fruit, frozen yoghurt and organic boosters, such as echinacea, spinach powder and wheatgrass, mingle together in a variety of smoothie concoctions that could beat the heaviest of hangovers. If it’s a stronger pick-me-up you seek, Hula have worked tirelessly on their Artisan Roast coffees over the past year and have got grinding beans down to an art. Soup and sandwiches share the menu pages with breakfast favourites such as porridge, fruit salads and croissants. An imaginative selection of fillings is on offer and the toasted bagels are an area of particular achievement. Berry coulis and frozen yoghurt is served as standard alongside your choice from the tempting cake selection. The pick of the bunch is a rich and indulgent chocolate fudge cake which could undo even the healthiest of diets. + Great selection of toasted bagels - Can be difficult to get a table at weekends

The Institute

14 Roseneath Street, Southside, EH9 1JH See Arts Venues

Leo’s Beanery

23a Howe Street, New Town, EH3 6TF (Map 1: C4, 40) 0131 556 8403, leosbeanery.co.uk | Tue–Fri 8.30am– 4.30pm; Sat/Sun 9am–4.30pm; Sun 10am–4.30pm; Mon closed. Oct–Feb: Mon–Fri 8.30am–4pm; Sat 8.30am– 4.30pm; Sun 10am–4.30pm. Veg; BYOB (£1.50 per person); Kids; T/A. £9 (lunch)

While it’s not unusual for a New Town café to go the extra distance in terms of befriending its regulars, Leo’s Beanery’s young owners Joe and Marie Denby have really stamped their personality on the place, right down to the photos of their family which adorn the place. The lovely welcoming atmosphere is hard to beat, with children more than welcome and elderly regulars engaging in catch-up conversation with the staff by the bar. They serve Artisan Roast in a range of styles and hot lunches – for example, Toulouse sausage cassoulet, smoked salmon pâté or a sweet chilli burger – from midday until 4pm. Sandwiches, salads and a full counter’s worth of fresh cakes are available all day. + Family run and family friendly - Steep steps at the front door

Loopy Lorna’s Tea House @ Churchill Theatre Churchill Theatre, 33a Morningside Road, Southside, EH10 4DR See Arts Venues

Loudon’s Café & Bakery

Lochrin Square, 94b Fountainbridge, West End, EH3 9QA (Map 4: C4, 57) 0131 228 9774, loudons-cafe.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–6pm; Sat/Sun 9am–6pm. HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £6.95 (set lunch)

Since opening in early 2011, Loudon’s has proved a welcome fillip for an area more au fait with coffee-house chains and run-of-the-mill sandwich shops.

Consequently, it attracts a wide range of customers, from businessmen to yummy mummies looking for a caffeine hit. Freshly-made counter food, cakes and bakes abound, but sandwich choices are somewhat limited. Fillings are generous, though, meaning choices like gammon, cheese and house-made pickle or smoked salmon with thyme cream cheese represent good value, as do the cavernous bowls of soup (keep an eye out for their spicy roasted aubergine variety). Respect is also due for a genuine attempt to source local and sustainable ingredients where possible. A glass-fronted facade and fashionable fittings make for a light, modish space, but don’t bank on always finding a table during busy periods, especially weekends, when the place packs out with regulars, intent on securing their weekly fix of Loudon’s eggs benedict. + The array of just-baked goodies that greets you upon entry - Feels a bit like you’re dining in a trendy furniture showroom

✱

The Manna House

22–24 Easter Road, EH7 5RG (Map 1: H3, off) 0131 652 2349, themannahousebakery.co.uk | Mon–Sat 8am–5.30pm. Closed Sun. Veg; T/A. £6 (lunch)

In its few short years on earth, the Manna House has become an institution beloved of ladies from Morningside, builders on their way to a job and all walks of life in between. A first-class bakery and patisserie, it’s also branched out of late into full meals, with slices of Serrano ham, spinach and cheddar quiche and kale, red onion and ginger frittata sitting alongside chorizo meatballs in spicy tomato sauce, pizza slices and a counter of rich salads. Yet that cabinet of dazzling and delicately designed, cakes tarts and chocolate creations is still the main selling point, alongside shelves of cheap, home-baked loaves of fresh bread. + Prices as low as the quality is high - Not a lot of seating space

airy space, the mix and match floral crockery remains, as do the diner-style booths, though they’ve been given a cheery upholstery update. The main difference, however, is in the menu. A simple sausage sandwich is made of generous, herby sausages from a local butcher with darkly caramelised onions and thick slices of good bread. Halloumi and roast sweet potato salad is a filling dish, threaded with interesting leaves, and zested up with a lime and tomato salsa. There’s a minimalist selection of cakes, but they’re nice ones – rich chilli chocolate cheesecake and a fudgy date slice are chase-the-last-crumb good. With menus for breakfast, lunch and dinner all centred on simple, seasonal ingredients, the Metropole has matured into a top local café. + Regaining an old neighbourhood hangout - The wine glass of smoothie that is, disappointingly, just juice

Mimi’s Bakehouse

63 Shore, Leith, EH6 6RA (Map 5: C4, 31) 0131 555 5908, mimisbakehouse.com | Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat/Sun 9am–6pm. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A. £10 (lunch)

Aimed squarely at the female and family markets, this family-run tea room has a strong sense of its audience and delivers for them in abundance. Standard lamps, velvet sofas and shabby chic furniture create an air of old-fashioned luxury and Mimi’s has doubled its premises with a welcome extension to accommodate a growing legion of fans. Windows onto the new kitchen make it clear that good quality home baking lies at Mimi’s heart, so it’s no surprise that the afternoon tea of dainty sandwiches, all-butter scones and traybake treats is a huge hit. An array

of cream-filled sandwich cakes and sweet fancies also jostle for attention, the moist yet light raspberry chocolate brownie being a particular treat. The motto may be ‘it’s all about the cake!’, but Mimis’s gives good savoury too with quesadillas, fishcakes and a daily pasta on offer, while the French toast proves a popular breakfast option. + New license adds sparkle to afternoon treating - Burlesque-print wallpaper may not be to everyone’s taste

Moo Cafeteria

9 Brandon Terrace, New Town, EH3 5EA (Map 1: C1, 6) 0131 557 3226, moocafeteria.co.uk | Mon–Thu 8am– 6pm; Fri 8am–9pm; Sat/Sun 9am–6pm. Veg; Kids; T/A. £8 (lunch)

There’s something refreshingly quirky about Moo Cafeteria. Alongside the bold décor of contrasting floral and striped walls are surprisingly offbeat features such as a miniature farm or a light box installation ‘window’. These singular aesthetic sensibilities are reflected in the hip music selection, an eclectic ‘Moo mix’ of diverse delights that’s as carefully crafted as the menu. In fact the menu is rather less esoteric, offering a satisfying selection of all-day breakfasts (perhaps accompanied by a unique marmalade milkshake?), ‘big bites’ such as burgers, fishcakes or Cajun chicken salad, or ‘lighter bites’ of soup and sandwiches. The usual selection of cakes and tray bakes is supplemented by retro sundaes made with Luca’s ice cream. Although generally a daytime joint, Moo stays open later on Fridays for burgers and BYOB. + Great burgers and shakes - Bought-in cakes

Le Marché Français

9a West Maitland Street, West End, EH12 5DS See French

Maxi’s

33 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge, EH4 1HX (Map 1: A3, 16) 0131 343 3007 | Mon– Sat 8.30am–4.30pm; Sun 10am–4.30pm. Veg; HW £12.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £8 (lunch)

Enjoying an airy, double-fronted location on Stockbridge’s bustling main thoroughfare, Maxi’s is a popular pitstop for almost-all-day (until 3pm) breakfasts, filling sandwiches and hearty but healthy lunches. Vegetarians are well catered for with a daily changing quiche or tortilla and a selection of vibrant seasonal salads such as beetroot coleslaw or carrot, orange and walnut, while a simple, low cost child’s menu features treats like a ham and Swiss cheese muffin and sandwiches filled with anything from hummus to Nutella. Unusually for a café Maxi’s is also licensed, so a small selection of wines, beers and cider is available with your meal. + Food is home-made and wholesome - Décor is calming but lacks character

Once again voted No.1 for Tearooms and Coffee Shops in Peter Irvine’s ‘Scotland The Best’. Seriously child-friendly, so all the family can enjoy! Fully licensed, bookings taken for parties & private functions! Awarded Certificate of Excellence by Trip Advisor.

Metropole

33 Newington Road, Southside, EH9 1QR (Map 3: H3, 60) 0131 668 4999 | Mon–Sun 9am–9pm. Veg; HW £15.95; Kids; T/A. £8.50 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Taken over recently by the folks who make Canonmills’ Circle Café go round so nicely, the improvements at Metropole are clear. Always a pleasant, The List Eating & Drinking Guide 51

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New Town Deli

• 42 Broughton Street • 23 Henderson Row, New Town See Sandwich Bars feature

Oink

34 Victoria Street, Old Town, EH1 2JW See Sandwich Bars feature

Palm Court

The Balmoral Hotel, 1 Princes Street, New Town, EH2 2EQ (Map 2: D2, 3) 0131 556 2414, thebalmoralhotel.com | Mon–Sun 9am–5.30pm. [Afternoon tea: noon–5.30pm]. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 9am–midnight.] HW £24; Kids; Wh. £15 (lunch)

Through the foyer and into the heart of the Balmoral Hotel lies one of Edinburgh’s grandest and most striking bars, a plush room with faultlessly polite staff and a bright, lightwell-effect high ceiling. In its vintage and its air of pricey refinement it feels like a throwback to the days of Empire, and its main selling point doesn’t dispel this notion – the afternoon tea, whether served with or without a glass of Bollinger Special Cuvee, is definitive, with sharp-edged rectangular sandwiches, light scones and a selection of inventive petit four-sized cakes served on a vintage tiered stand. The lengthy tea list and a harpist playing through the afternoon add to your money’s worth, while oysters, smoked salmon, individual sandwiches and champagne cocktails are also available. + One of Edinburgh’s most opulent and venerable locations - Decidedly pricey

The Pastures

24 Marchmont Crescent, Southside, EH9 1HG (Map 3: E3, 69) 0131 623 3606 | Mon–Fri 8am–6pm; Sat 10am–5.30pm; Sun 11am–5.30pm. Veg; T/A. £6.50 (lunch) / £7.80 (set dinner)

Winner Best Customer Service, Scottish Cafe & Restaurant Awards 2012

One of Scotland’s Best Restaurants in Scotland the Best 2012 - Peter Irvine

Breakfast – Daily Home Baking Seasonal Lunches – Private Events Traditional High Teas Speciality Afternoon Teas Mon-Sat 9am until 5pm (Thurs 7pm) Sun 10am until 5pm THE SCOTTISH CAFE & RESTAURANT

The Scottish National Gallery Edinburgh

The Scottish Cafe & Restaurant The Scottish National Gallery, The Mound, Edinburgh EH22EL | www.thescottishcafe.com info@thescottishcafe.com | 0131 226 6524

Sequestered among the tenements of Marchmont, this new small-scale venture is a local gem, serving homely comfort food in a bright and cheery setting at a tariff well suited to threadbare student pockets. They don’t back off on quality, though: poached eggs on toast are delicious and the generous full Scottish breakfast is a perfect antidote to morning-after malaise. Be sure to save a corner of space for a chunk of the award-winning ginger cake. On Friday nights, the café hosts a come-dine-with-us evening, where customers can join genial owners Jane and Stan for dinner continental style and enjoy two courses plus coffee and party games for £7.80 (BYOB is encouraged). The interior space has a light and pleasant feel with tasteful duck-egg blue décor and chunky wooden furniture. Prints, crafts and an assortment of attractive artefacts made by regional artists are on display and available to buy. A great place for a cup of tea and cake and a flick through the Sunday supplements – like breakfast at your favourite auntie’s, but better. + Shooting the breeze with the lovely Jane - Get here early as seating is at a premium

Patisserie Madeleine

27b Raeburn Place, Stockbridge, EH4 1HU (Map 1: A3, 17) 0131 332 8455, patisseriemadeleine.com | Wed–Sat 10am–5.30pm; Sun 11am–5pm. Closed Mon/Tue. Veg; T/A.

That Arnaud Djavanshir can produce anything but a cheese toastie from his minuscule kitchen is impressive. That he can turn out cakes and macarons as elaborate and consistently sublime as

he does is miraculous. After just a fourday training course at Parisian legend Pierre Herme’s confectionery school, he has been developing and expanding his repertoire to include such treats as figue amandine – fig confit with baked almond cream and soft Italian meringue, and a dreamy croustine choco-coco, made up of rich chocolate cremeux and coconut confit on a crisp praline base. Eteaket teas and good coffee make this one of the most luxurious tea and cake options in town, in everything but price: a hot drink and three of his jewel-like macarons, fragrant or vividly fruity, comes in at less than £4. + Edinburgh’s best hot chocolate, made with a grown-up Valrhona base - A somewhat stark interior isn’t the most welcoming

Peter’s Yard

27 Simpson Loan (Quartermile), Southside, EH3 9GG (Map 3: E1, 38) 0131 228 5876, petersyard.com | Mon 7am–6pm; Tue–Fri 7am–10pm; Sat 9am–10pm; Sun 9am–6pm. Veg; Wh; T/A. £8 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

The location of this aspirational Swedish establishment couldn’t be better. Tucked alongside Middle Meadow Walk in the expensive glass forest of the Quartermile development, Peter’s Yard is a bright, well-ordered space that exudes a soothing Scandinavian serenity that provides the perfect balm for fuzzy weekend heads. Fine fresh baking – including a superior home-made crispbread – is a particular strength, and a clever selection of cakes including a delicious vegan (so often an oxymoron) pecan pie alongside tasty home-made soups make this a popular and busy lunch destination kept ticking over by genial staff. There’s a self-service option for takeaway coffee while a cardamom hot chocolate is a delicatelyspiced break from convention, although disappointingly tepid. The range of sandwiches includes a densely-flavoured mackerel pâté with beetroot on rye. All in all a haven for foodies, but firmly not for those on a budget. + Light, airy atmosphere - Lukewarm hot drinks

✱

Porto & Fi

47 Newhaven Main Street, Leith, EH6 4NQ (Map 5: A2, off) 0131 551 1900, portofi.com | Mon–Sat 8am– 7.30pm; Sun 10am–6pm. Kids; Wh; T/A. £11 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Open views across the Firth of Forth make this bright, modern café-bistro the ideal place to admire Edinburgh’s stunning seascape. Indeed, a love of this setting is evident in everything from the artist paintings on display to the owners’ sourcing of seasonal delicacies from the last remaining fishing boat working out of Newhaven. It’s no surprise then that the pail of crispy haddock goujons and curly fries or delectable fish pie are big hitters. The veggie choice is no poor relation, though, and a steaming bowl of Mediterranean vegetable risotto with sunblushed tomato pesto is creamy, tangy and the ultimate comfort food. Only the mixed salad disappoints, simply for being a tad unexciting. For a lazy weekend brunch, however, the scrambled eggs on Au Gourmand granary toast with Parma ham are hard to beat, and an extensive range of puds and cakes makes a doggy bag the only sensible option. + Well-sourced food and uniformly excellent staff - At weekends you take your chances without a reservation

Porto & Fi on the Mound

9 North Bank Street, Old Town, EH1 2LP See Bistros & Brasseries

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In association with

Edinburgh particularly redolent of a Mediterranean escape. Here, the emphasis is on sitting down and savouring. + Genuine Italian flavour to the place - The spell might not be so effective on a chill winter’s day

The Storytelling Café

Scottish Storytelling Centre, 43 High Street, Old Town, EH1 1SR See Arts Venues

The Suburban Pantry

12 Hillhouse Road, Blackhall, EH4 2AG See Bistros & Brasseries

Tea at 94

94 Buccleuch Street, Southside, EH8 9NH (Map 3: G2, 51) 07771 138719 | Mon– Sat 8.30am–5pm; Sun 11am–3.30pm. Veg; Kids; T/A. £7 (lunch)

Ronde Bicycle Outfitters: a free-wheeling approach to coffee, cakes and nice bits of kit

Punjab’n de Rasoi

122–124 Leith Walk, Leith, EH6 5DT See Indian

Rocket Café

41 Morningside Road, Southside, EH10 4DR (Map 3: A5, 34) 0131 447 0377, rocketcafe.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–5pm; Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 10am–5pm. Veg; Kids; T/A. £8.50 (lunch)

True to its name, this neighbourhood café is both fresh and lively and energetically going places. Not the largest of venues, it nevertheless manages to cram in an awful lot of roles – breakfast pit stop, takeaway lunch local, afternoon tea people-watching perch and rowdy family lunch favourite. There’s a lot of effort going into the food, which centres on the expected soup, sandwich and salad list, perked up by careful preparation and considered ingredients. Chicken is free range, tuna is pole and line caught, and baking is done onsite – the glutenfree raspberry chocolate brownie being particularly good. It slips occasionally on details like bland bread, but this buzzing and cheerful corner café deserves its packed-out tables. + Smiley happy efficient service - Not for worker bees – no wifi

Rocksalt Café Deli

46 Constitution Street, Leith, EH6 6RS (Map 5: D4, 28) 0131 554 9873 | Mon–Wed 8am–4pm; Thu–Sat 8am–6pm; Sun 10am–4pm. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A. £7.50 (lunch)

In recent years owner Callum Morrison has established a strong local reputation for café Rocksalt and its sister deli, Relish, just round the corner. Although the departure of talented chef Craig Long has been felt, Morrison is keen to move forward and one welcome development is the addition of afternoon teas and a new emphasis on home baking. Proving his top notch foodie instincts, the new assortment of cakes is adventurous and surprising in the best possible way. The chocolate and Guinness cake has a wonderfully deep and punchy flavour, while a zucchini, lime and ginger cake is tangy with a perfect bounce to it. Regulars needn’t worry, though, as proven favourites remain, including the

halloumi, roast pepper and hand-made pesto burger and the crayfish, avocado and tomato sandwich, which comes oozing with lemon and smoked paprika mayonnaise. Rocksalt looks set to continue delivering on taste. + Exciting home baking - Toilets could do with a spruce-up

Ronde Bicycle Outfitters

66–68 Hamilton Place, Stockbridge, EH3 5AZ (Map 1: B3, 32) 0131 260 9888, rondebike.com | Mon–Wed, Fri/Sat 9am– 6pm; Thu 9am–7pm; Sun 10am–4pm. Kids; Wh.

Taking inspiration from similar outlets in Scandinavian countries, Ronde is a high-end cycling shop and a pleasant daytime café, often combining the two when the city’s cycling enthusiasts converge to watch the Tour de France and other races on the pull-down screen. Next to informal bench seats, the prices of Artisan Roast coffees and cakes from Cuckoo’s Bakery and Stromboli are scrawled on the white-tiled wall, a relaxed touch for a small café with a particularly laid-back feel. Other occasional evening events include acoustic music performances, poetry readings and Q&A events. + The ultimate hangout for cycling enthusiasts - No hot or savoury food

Russian Passion

5 Canonmills, Inverleith, EH3 5HA See Round the World

St Giles’ Cathedral Café

St Giles’ Cathedral, High Street, Old Town, EH1 1RE (Map 2: C3, 24) 0131 225 5147, glenfinlas.com | Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 11am–5pm. Veg; Kids; T/A. £9 (lunch)

If you think St Giles’ Cathedral is just for tourists and a Sunday service, think again. Tucked round the back is a long, narrow, functional-looking canteen serving exemplary cooking from locally sourced, seasonal ingredients – and a dazzling array of cake. Creamy savoury tarts with buttery, flaky pastry sit alongside colourful salads packed with fun things to chase around the plate such as pumpkin seeds, olives and roast

peppers. A couple of hot dishes change daily, as do the soups – and you can rely on proper bread to accompany them. Cathedral rules mean no hot food can be served before the last Sunday service is over (about 12.15pm), but with such a display of cakes and pastries to keep you going, you’re unlikely to complain about the wait. + Sun-trap outdoor seating in summer - Inside, the sparse décor isn’t conducive to lingering

Santo’s Bistro

23 Canning Street, West End, EH3 8EG See Italian

The Scottish Café and Restaurant

National Gallery of Scotland, The Mound, New Town, EH2 2EL See Scottish

The Scottish Café

National Gallery of Scotland, The Mound, City Centre, EH2 2EL See Arts Venues

Spoon Café Bistro

6a Nicolson Street, Old Town, EH8 9DH See Bistros & Brasseries

Sprio

37/39 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge, EH3 5AH (Map 1: B3, 26) 0131 226 7533, sprio.co.uk | Mon–Sat 8.30am–5pm; Sun 10.30am–5pm. Veg; BYOB (no charge); T/A; D. £8.50 (lunch)

St Stephen Street on a summer’s day could almost be mistaken for a Milanese back street, and it’s this atmosphere the owners of Sprio succeed in reflecting. This isn’t just an Italian-themed café, it’s one which reflects the sights and smells of the country, from the cool, brightlydesigned furniture to the action-packed fumetti adorning the walls and a range of imported Italian sweets, magazines and dry goods. Most of the kitchen ingredients are also Italian imports, making up quick snacks like flat piadine bread with cooked ham and a fontina cheese from the Alps or a selection of meats with olives and a salad, with the excellent Italian coffees being

This newcomer to the Southside café scene is a cheerful and unpretentious place to pass an hour or two. Having opened its doors just before Christmas 2011, Tea at 94 still feels as if it’s finding its feet somewhat in terms of the fare on offer. While a leek and potato soup is watery and lacks punch the panini and sandwich options are fresh and fully-flavoured. As might be expected, tea lovers will find plenty to delight their palates here, with a broad spectrum of brews on offer ranging from fresh gunpowder green tea to an earthy lapsang souchong providing the perfect foil to the appetising range of home-made cakes and biscuits cleverly displayed in the window to tempt passers-by. The space is child friendly, with a special children’s menu and an assortment of colouring books to occupy sticky mitts. The walls are enlivened with artworks by students from the Edinburgh College of Art, with a fortnightly change of exhibition. + Cheerful staff and reasonable prices - Bland, watery soup

Ten Hill Place

10 Hill Place, Old Town, EH8 9DS See Bistros & Brasseries

TIPList FOR TEA AND CAKE • Anteaques Tea and antiques shopping? Embrace eccentric multitasking. 44 • La Barantine Gallic bonhomie, French baking, instant success 44 • Cuckoo’s Bakery A rainbow of cupcakes and legions of teas 48 • Eteaket Fine teas ﬁnely served 49 • Falko (Konditormeister) An exacting standard of cake 49 • Mimi’s Bakehouse Toptier baking 51 • Palm Court Harps, ﬁzz and a tower of cakes 52 • Patisserie Madeleine Almost (but not quite) too gorgeous to eat 52 The List Eating & Drinking Guide 53

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Edinburgh Terrace Café

Royal Botanic Garden, Inverleith Row, Inverleith, EH3 5LR (Map 1: A1, off) 0131 552 0606 | Mar–Sep: 10am–5.15pm. Nov–Jan: 10am–3.15pm; Feb/Oct: 10am–4.15pm. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A. £7.95 (set lunch)

Location, as they say, is everything and it’s true that the Terrace Café’s position near the Botanics’ top lawn, with its stunning views of Edinburgh’s iconic skyline, is hard to beat. It’s a shame that the food – a self-service selection of pre-made sandwiches, jacket potatoes and hot dishes such as pies or pasta bakes – is not as spectacular. The cakes are a highlight and the scones are so good it might seem churlish to complain that they come with whipped rather than clotted cream. Those seeking a quiet afternoon tea might prefer the Gateway Restaurant, however, as healthy kids’ options and an indoor play area make the café a favourite haunt of young families. Sadly, the mature tree that provided shelter, shade and character to the eponymous patio was lost to illness recently and will be sorely missed on sunny days. + Superb setting and family facilities - Lacklustre canteen-style service

Toast

146 Marchmont Road, Southside, EH9 1AQ See Bistros & Brasseries

The Treehouse

44 Leven Street, Tollcross, EH3 9LJ (Map 3: B2, 16) 0131 656 0513 | Mon–Sat 8am–4.30pm; Sun 9am–4.30pm. Veg; Kids; T/A. £4.95 (set lunch)

Its enviable location on the corner of Bruntsfield Links makes the Treehouse

a perfect impromptu picnic provider on a summery day, although eating in is no bad choice either. The interior has a slightly offbeat, kooky charm about it – from the vintage vinyl on the shelves to the quirky artwork – that’s not immediately apparent, but rewards the more observant diner. Healthy, satisfying breakfast options abound, and that attitude spills over into lunch too, with owner Emma Hilder seemingly determined to help you get your five-aday. A rustic Greek salad is laden with greens while all sandwiches are served with two hefty portions of side salad too. For something naughtier, look for the triple-decker stacks, like the New York club – packed with pastrami, Swiss cheese, gherkin and coleslaw or the tasty (but calorific) milkshakes made with ice cream and chocolate treats like Oreo cookies and Maltesers. + Perfect mix of wholesome and wicked selections - No fresh fruit juices

Two Thin Laddies

103 High Riggs, Tollcross, EH3 9RP (Map 4: E4, 58) 0131 229 0653, twothinladdies.co.uk | Mon–Fri 7.30am– 6pm; Sat/Sun 9am–5pm. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £5.65 (set lunch)

Pitch pine, exposed timber and white walls – the interior of Two Thin Laddies is reminiscent of an alpine ski resort, which is appropriate really, considering they serve the sort of food you’d want after a hard morning on the pistes. The décor might be dated, but it fits with the café’s ethos; there’s absolutely no pretention here, just the desire to fill you up with a plate of honest grub and send you happily on your way. Baked potatoes and sandwiches are available

with almost any filling imaginable, while hot meals include a heart-warming macaroni cheese that your mum would be proud to call her own. If you’ve still got room, then all the cakes and bakes (try the cheese scone) are made fresh each morning. After the rush of lunchtime, the afternoon is much more serene, making it the perfect opportunity to sample the splendid mezze platters. + Hunger-killing platefuls - Come lunchtime, the takeaway queue is often out of the door

Union of Genius

8 Forrest Road, Old Town, EH1 2QN See Sandwich Bars feature

Urban Angel

• 121 Hanover Street, New Town, EH2 1DJ • 1 Forth Street, New Town, EH1 3JX See Bistros & Brasseries

Valvona & Crolla Vincaffè

11 Multrees Walk, New Town, EH1 3DQ See Italian

✱ Valvona & Crolla Caffè Bar

19 Elm Row, Leith Walk, New Town, EH7 4AA (Map 1: G3, 151) 0131 556 6066, valvonacrolla.co.uk | Mon–Thu 8.30am–5.30pm; Fri/Sat 8am–6pm; Sun 10.30am–3.30pm. Veg; HW £12.99; Kids; Wh; T/A. £15 (lunch)

No one who cares about good food in Edinburgh is unaware of the Contini family’s excellent Italy-inspired deli and café, the former being an Aladdin’s Cave of cured meats, fine cheeses and freshbaked breads. The caffè bar itself is a deserving stop for a spot of sophisticated but informal lunch, with an extensive menu of pizza, pastas and antipasti made from ingredients sourced from a range of local suppliers and a weekly delivery from Italy. The meatballs are outstanding, served in a rich fresh tomato and basil sugo, while the Italian spinach and ricotta pancakes are delicate and full of flavour, or for a special treat try the garlic buttered Port Seton langoustines and then see if you can escape without filling a basket in the shop on your way. V&C also run the café and food market at Princes Street’s Jenners department store. + One of Edinburgh’s definitive delis and cafés - Tea room décor at odds with the sophistication of the food

The Water of Leith Café Bistro

52 Coburg Street, Leith, EH6 6HJ (Map 5: B3, 23) 0131 555 2613, thewaterofleithcafebistro.co.uk | Tue– Sun 10am–5.30pm. Closed Mon. Veg; HW £12.90; Kids; Wh; T/A. £10 (lunch)

Set on a sunny corner beside the water of Leith this bright little café-bistro draws locals, families and couples alike with its quality food and friendly ambience. A printed menu covers the basics but the blackboard is the main show here, presenting a variety of French-centred dishes which chef Mickael Mesle builds around seasonal produce from his butcher and fishmonger. Expect mains such as duck terrine with a home-made marmalade, smoked haddock and leek risotto, and oatmeal-coated mackerel fillets. The staples include Cullen skink and a range of croques, which come dripping with cheesy loveliness and are served with salad and chips – long and thin, the way French fries should be. The weekend set menu (2 courses £10.95, 3 courses £13.50) provides the ideal chance to sample what’s on offer and ensure you

get a shot at a classy dessert, like iced parfait or pear and almond tart. + A cheerful and welcoming space - When the specials run out

Wellington Coffee

33a George Street, New Town, EH2 2HN (Map 1: D5, 91) 0131 225 6854 | Mon–Fri 7.30am–6pm; Sat 8.30am–6pm; Sun 9.30am–6pm. Veg; T/A.

After a recent refurb, the focus at the Wellington Café is even more firmly on the best coffee they can coax from a bean. Panini and bacon rolls have gone; the food now consists simply of excellent daily delivered brownies, sizeable scones and tray bakes from sister joint Project Coffee. This leaves time and space for two grinders: a regular filled with Square Mile, doyenne of the coffee world (Wellington swear they’re the only café outside England to stock this), and a guest grinder often featuring Has Bean’s Red Brick, of World Barista Championship fame. For non-coffee lovers they do a mean hot chocolate, as well as good Waterloo Gardens tea. If you want to know more about your daily caffeine fix, just ask the baristas and let their enthusiasm shine through. + Star quality at cheaper prices than the chains - Very limited space and regular queues

✱ Word of Mouth

3a Albert Street, Leith, EH7 5HL (Map 1: H2, off) 0131 554 4344, wofmcafe.com | Mon–Thu 8am–5pm; Fri/Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 10am–6pm. Veg; BYOB (£2); Kids; T/A. £9 (lunch)

It’s only five years old, but already Word of Mouth is one of Edinburgh’s definitive neighbourhood cafés, a recommended stop not just for the food but for the range of activities they manage to cram into the small dining space. An open mic poetry and acoustic night, a film night and even a pudding night are among the semi-regular events, although the cooking here is a main attraction in itself. The breakfasts come as healthy or as gut-busting as you desire, while the décor and the gorgeous but sinfully rich croque monsieurs et madames betray a gallic influence. The home-made minted lamb burger and freshly-baked cakes make deciding on lunch that much harder, but Word of Mouth’s proactive ecological and ethical mission is impossible to disagree with. + There’s always something freshly home-baked coming out of the oven - A little cramped

The Zulu Lounge

366 Morningside Road, Southside, EH10 4QN (Map 3: A5, off) 0131 466 8337, thezululounge.com | Mon–Fri 7.30am– 6pm; Sat/Sun 8am–5pm. Veg; Kids; T/A; D. £8 (lunch)

The small, stripy frontage may be striking but it still hides quite how much is on offer within this South African café. There are dozens of options available among both food and drink yet somehow quality is never compromised. Muffins and scones are baked in house while Boerewors are produced to their specifications by Finlays of Portobello. The menu spans the healthy (salads, soup and smoothies) to the deliciously unhealthy: the marshmallow float combines rich hot chocolate with a choice of four different flavours of marshmallow! A table outside and ten seats within the characterful wooden interior allow you to take your time over coffee, chocolate or Rooibos tea although its popularity at lunchtime and after school can make it a bit too cosy. + Tantalising number of options - Small space is easily cramped

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CHINESE

In association with

Edinburgh

CHINESE It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that Edinburgh’s diners are spoiled for choice when it comes to Chinese food right now. The days of mediocre MSG-laden chicken dishes are (mostly) gone, and instead options range from tiny noodle bars to huge buffet joints, with hot-pot restaurants and seafood specialists in-between. The traditional comfort food element remains, but for those willing to try something new, or seeking an authentic experience, it’s definitely a good time to revisit your idea of Chinese cuisine. Reviewers: Hilary Lloyd, Kat Turner

✱ China Town

3 Atholl Place, West End, EH3 8HP (Map 4: B3, 22) 0131 228 3333, chinatownedinburgh.co.uk | Mon & Wed/Thu noon–2pm, 5.30–11.30pm; Fri/ Sat noon–2pm, 5.30pm–12.30am; Sun 5.30–11.30pm. Closed Tue. Pre; HW £15.50; Kids (under 7); T/A. £9.30 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Don’t be fooled by China Town’s modest whitewashed frontage at the end of Shandwick Place. Step inside and you’ll find a stylish dining room that’s all muted colours, luxe upholstery and statement lighting. The Chinese influence shows in the old musical instruments on the walls and silver-topped chopsticks, though this expensive-looking décor doesn’t mean steep menu prices. Banquets are particularly good value at just over £20 per head and reveal the emphasis the owners put on quality ingredients. It’s a good place to rediscover old favourites like sweet and sour pork or beef in black bean sauce – the light, crispy batter and tender meat are a welcome change

from the glutinous norms. And if you’re feeling a bit braver, there’s an array of exotic specials to tempt you, including jellyfish salad, mussels, oysters and even abalone (sea snail). The service is friendly and although the pace may feel a bit relaxed for some, for others it will be a welcome excuse to take their time. + Stands out for its immaculate décor and varied menu - Atmosphere can be a little subdued

The Kitchin. And for those lucky diners whose visit coincides with a balmy evening or sunny weekend lunchtime (this branch no longer opens for weekday lunches), outdoor tables offer the all-too-rare opportunity for alfresco dining in Scotland. + Two distinct venues providing the same great food - Dishes cooling down as the food mounts up

✱ Chop Chop

Golden Bridge

• 248 Morrison Street, West End, EH3 8DT (Map 4: B3, 27) 0131 221 1155, chop-chop.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 5.30–10pm; Sat noon–2pm, 5–10pm; Sun 12.30–2.30pm, 5–10pm. • 76 Commercial Street, Leith, EH6 6LX (Map 5: C3, 8) 0131 553 1818, chop-chop. co.uk | Mon–Thu 6–10pm; Fri 6–10.30pm; Sat noon–2pm, 5–10.30pm; Sun 12.30– 2.30pm, 5–10pm. Veg; BYOB (£5); HW £11.70; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £7.50 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The lively Morrison Street outpost of this popular restaurant continues to draw a crowd who enjoy the hustle and bustle of its sparsely furnished cafeteria-style room. Known primarily for boiled and fried dumplings, the idea is to place your order and then wait for the dishes to arrive seemingly at random. This can take a bit of getting used to, but once you decide not to let the delicious pieces of bite-sized crispy northern beef go cold while thinking about the pork and chive dumplings you planned as a starter, the experience clicks right into place. The cucumber salad is a refreshing counterpoint to rich stir-fried spicy tofu, and the sticky, crunchy dessert of sesame-coated apple scores for both outstanding flavour and sheer fun. If these dishes sound right up your street but you prefer a more sophisticated dining experience, that’s exactly what’s on offer at the Leith branch, which has found its own place next to notable Shore neighbours like

16 Henderson Street, Leith, EH6 6BS (Map 5: C5, 17) 0131 467 5441/ 07850 340 905, goldenbridgerestaurant. co.uk | Sun–Thu 5.30–10.30pm; Fri/Sat 5–11.30pm. Closed Mon. BYOB (£1.50); T/A; D. £14.50 (dinner)

If your experience of Szechuan food is limited to the solitary ‘Szechuan chicken/ beef/ pork’ off the typical Chinese menu, then think about visiting the Golden Bridge next time you’re in Leith. This unpretentious, welcoming little restaurant specialises in the spicy, aromatic cuisine of China’s Sichuan and Guizhou provinces. Chilli, peanuts, garlic and ginger impart bold flavours to the dishes on offer here, which have a home-cooked feel to them. And it’s great to see authentic ingredients like black fungus and bamboo making an appearance. Try at least one dish with their pickled chilli, made on the premises, which gives a wonderful sour sharpness to stir-fried meat or fish. The place has a quirky charm: a wooden trellis seems an odd choice to cover the once-handsome ceiling cornice, the toilet door is screened off by what looks suspiciously like a shower curtain, and the Chinese tea comes in the floweriest of Victoriana teapots. But, like the food and the warm welcome from manager Sue Ma, somehow it just makes you feel right at home. + Eye-opening Szechuan tastes - So small it’s like being in someone’s front room at times

✱ HITLIST CHINESE ✱ China Town Stylish surroundings and quality ingredients make this restaurant a reliable choice whatever the occasion. ✱ Chop Chop Two branches, one menu, two completely different dining experiences. And those famous dumplings are as good as ever. ✱ Jasmine Chinese Restaurant A central location, welcoming atmosphere and solid cooking make this venue stand out. ✱ Wing Sing Step out of your Cantonese comfort zone and try truly authentic Northern Chinese dishes, made with the freshest Scottish seafood.

Red Box Noodle Bar (page 57): simple but enjoyable Chinese food in minimalist premesis near the university The List Eating & Drinking Guide 55

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Hong Fu Noodle

3–7 Waterloo Place, New Town, EH1 3BG (Map 1: F5, 110) 0131 556 7597, hongfubar.com | Mon–Sun 11am–11pm. HW £18.99; T/A. £14.50 (lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

AWARD-WINNING CHINESE RESTAURANT (Formerly Indian Cavalry Club)

3 Atholl Place, Edinburgh EH3 8HP 0131 228 3333 (Restaurant Bookings) 0131 228 8883 (Takeaway)

www.chinatownedinburgh.co.uk

Open 7 days a week for lunch & dinner

32 Grindlay Street Edinburgh EH3 9AP Opposite the Lyceum and across the road from the Sheraton Hotel

www.jasminechinese.co.uk

0131 229 5757

Owner Jing Si promises real Chinese cooking at Hong Fu Noodle Bar. The recently revamped menu has some genuinely unusual dishes, with Szechuan and Northern Chinese influences predominating. Gone are the ubiquitous prawn toast and chow mein, to be replaced with the likes of guotie dumplings, jade tofu, ‘scalded’ sea bass and even fresh cod head. Sometimes the descriptions, though lyrical, don’t give you much to go on, but be brave and dive in. A dish of pork ‘from the southern reaches of the Yangtze river’ may sound like it’s been dredged from the depths but is a delicious hot and sour concoction of tender shredded meat, pickled vegetables and chilli. However, monk’s vegetarian noodles turn out to be disappointingly austere. You feel they haven’t quite worked out how to use the space in this former pub: the smaller tables crowded beside the bar get the best of the views along Princes Street but feel oddly separate from the rest of the room, and the décor is mismatched at best. But never mind – just close your eyes and indulge your taste buds. + Dishes you’ll find nowhere else in town - Pricey sides (£7.20 for shredded potato, really?)

Hot Hot Chinese

60 Home Street, Tollcross, EH3 9NA (Map 3: B1, 11) 0131 656 0707 | Mon–Sun 3–11pm. Veg; BYOB (no charge); Kids. £14.50 (dinner)

Open since 2008 but in new hands since 2010, Hot Hot was one of the original restaurants offering Chinese hot pot in Edinburgh. Behind its steamed-up windows is a sparsely decorated room where diners are presented with a simple concept: dip an array of meat, seafood, vegetables and noodles into a pot of two boiling liquids on the table, and then guesstimate their cooking times. Retrieve the ingredients, add condiments like smooth peanut paste or chopped coriander, match with a cold drink, and tuck into this DIY dinner. It’s a somewhat messy experience that involves a certain level of manual dexterity and patience. Unlike some places, the eponymous broth here is truly searing, so match it with one of the less fiery options. Chilled plates of raw ingredients keep arriving until everyone is stuffed, and include anything from squid to prawns, beef to chicken. Vegetable options cover ingredients like crispy cabbage, seaweed and thinly sliced potatoes, though beware that not every menu item is always available. A visit here is what you make it – approach it with an open mind and empty belly, and embrace the experience. + Good for adventurous groups looking to try something a bit different - Definitely not for the faint-hearted or picky

Izzi

119 Lothian Road, West End, EH3 9AN See Far East

Jasmine Chinese Restaurant

✱

32–34 Grindlay Street, West End, EH3 9AP (Map 4: D3, 47) 0131 229 5757, jasminechinese.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–2pm, 5–11.30pm; Fri noon–2pm, 5pm–12.30am; Sat 1pm–12.30am; Sun 1–11.30pm. Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; T/A. £8.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Located opposite the Lyceum, Jasmine

entices prospective customers with a selection of fresh fish dishes listed on a blackboard outside, reflecting their more seafood-oriented approach to Chinese cooking. Inside, tables are quite close together, but balanced by the unfussy décor and high ceiling, the overall feeling is a welcoming one. The menu covers a broad range without being disconcertingly long, and vegetarians are well catered for with lots of fresh produce on offer. The chef’s recommendations are worth checking out for some appealing options, though a couple of prices might raise an eyebrow. A platter of mixed starters features six different appetisers, including unusually tasty fried corn won tuns, moreish spare ribs and salty and spicy chicken. Elsewhere, plump sautéed prawns in a chilli sauce are strong on enjoyable but unmentioned garlic, and an otherwise delicious and fragrant dish of honey chilli sauce with monkfish is slightly let down by the once-crispy fish being immersed in the syrupy dressing. Overall, the freshness of the seafood is notable, and when they hit their stride, the dishes at Jasmine are enjoyably different. + Lots of interesting dishes to pick from - All the more disappointing when some key flavours get lost

Karen Wong’s Chinese Restaurant

107–109 St Leonard’s Street, Southside, EH8 9QY (Map 3: H2, 53) 0131 662 0777, karenwongchineserestaurant.co.uk | Wed–Mon 4–11pm. Closed Tue. Pre; HW £13.50; Kids; T/A. £15 (dinner)

Karen Wong will tell you that she likes to keep her customers happy and her family-run restaurant certainly tries hard to cater for all comers. There are set menus galore – including both the traditional pre-theatre and a bargain mini-banquet which throws in crispy duck and a glass of wine for £16.50 Sunday to Thursday. Vegetarians are also better served than in many Chinese restaurants with dishes like kung po aubergines or ginger and spring onion chow mein enlivening the usual ‘mixed vegetables’. The restaurant itself is a cheery place, the standard décor brightened by the warm welcome of the chatty hostess and her family. Service is friendly and attentive and the food arrives promptly on pretty patterned crockery. Popular dishes like salt and pepper squid and prawn dumplings are fine, if nothing special, but for something a bit different, ask Karen what her Chinese guests like to eat. Chilli chicken, with its cargo of fresh and dried chillies and cashew nuts, delivers real depth of flavour and deserves to be on the main menu. + Genuine commitment to customer service - Menus could be more adventurous

Karen’s Unicorn

• 8b Abercromby Place, New Town, EH3 6LB (Map 1: E4, 119) 0131 558 8420, karensunicorn.com | Tue–Fri noon–2pm, 5–11pm; Sat/Sun 2–11pm. Closed Mon. • 112 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge, EH3 5AD (Map 1: B3, 31) 0131 220 6659, karensunicorn.com | Mon 5–11pm; Wed–Sun 5–11pm. Closed Tue. BYOB (£6); HW £15.95; Kids; T/A; D. £8.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Karen’s Unicorn sets out to subvert your preconceptions of a typical Chinese restaurant. Whether you choose the original, cosy Stockbridge branch or its newer and more glamorous sister in the New Town’s Abercromby Place, any Chinatown clichés are firmly banished. Instead, a bold black and purple colour scheme carries through from furniture

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Edinburgh After the dubious-looking shared entranceway with its faded carpets and dirty walls, the restaurant at the top of the stairs is a surprisingly bright, clean and welcoming place. It does doubleduty on the service front, offering a set price buffet at lunch, plus the regular à la carte and banquet options all day. The long and predictable menu of Peking and Cantonese dishes probably hasn’t changed much since the doors first opened in 1956, but the many regulars don’t seem to mind. The crispy aromatic duck arrives suspiciously quickly, but certainly achieves the desired combination of crunchy skin and tender flesh, although the limp cucumber strips disappoint. The chow mein is uninspiring, and the meat is hard to find under its noodle mountain. A highlight is the sweet & sour pork – the small pieces of meat are dripping in delicious sauce, and yet still keep their crispy coating intact. There’s nothing boundarypushing happening here, but for the Chinese equivalent of comfort food, it’s a charming location nonetheless. + The friendly welcome keeps regulars coming back - Fairly uninspiring menu

Red Box Noodle Bar

51–53 West Nicolson Street, Southside, EH8 9DB (Map 2: D5, 74) 0131 662 0828, red-boxnoodlebar.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. Veg; Kids; T/A. £7.50 (set lunch) / £7.50 (set dinner)

Chop Chop (page 55): with branches at Haymarket and Leith, there’s a broad audience for good Chinese food

to statement lighting effects, creating a modern ambience with broad appeal. The cooking may not be quite as cutting-edge as the décor but dishes are well-portioned and attractively plated. Appetisers include fried and steamed dim sum, soft-shell crab and squid, and there’s a good choice of specials in the wide-ranging Cantonese menu. Fat battered king prawns in five-spice and chilli, and slivers of Chinese roast pork drizzled with piquant honey sauce are both great combinations. Even the noodles, shot through with plenty of golden onions, are delicious. Plus there’s a good selection of drinks to wash it all down, with Chinese and Australian beers and no fewer than eight wines by the glass on offer. Unicorns are rare beasts – and this incarnation is no exception. + Consistently good food and service - Some may feel modernity is achieved at the expense of character

Kweilin

19–21 Dundas Street, New Town, EH3 6QG (Map 1: D4, 37) 0131 557 1875, kweilin.net | Tue–Thu noon–2pm, 5–11pm; Fri/Sat 11am–2pm, 5–11.30pm; Sun 5–11pm. Closed Mon. HW £15.90; Kids; T/A. £10.95/£15 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Kweilin has something of a split personality. On the face of it, it’s a traditional Cantonese restaurant complete with red carpets, red-covered chairs and red-jacketed waiters, and all the expected dishes present and correct. But peeking out from time to time is something more intriguing: little sparks of originality like a beautifully balanced starter of scallops in a sweet black bean dressing so delicious you find yourself lifting the shell to your mouth to finish off the last few drops. The wok-fried monkfish with broccoli is another triumph of subtlety over garlic. Stuffed squid is hit-and-miss: it doesn’t really do justice to the squid, which gets crisped in

order to protect its cargo of juicy prawn filling, but it’s peppery and moreish. Seafood is clearly the specialty here and some of the other dishes seem average by comparison: it’s worth paying the extra if you’re a fan of things fishy. The restaurant changed hands in early 2012 and it will be interesting to see whether the new owners play it safe or build on the more imaginative dishes. + Unexpected delights - Getting jostled in the narrow entrance

Kwok Brasserie

44 Ratcliffe Terrace, Causewayside, Southside, EH9 1ST (Map 3: H5, 67) 0131 668 1818, kwokbrasserie.com | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 5–11.30pm; Sat/Sun 5pm–12.30am. BYOB (£2.50); HW £11.50; Wh; T/A; D. £5.99 (set lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

Kwok Brasserie is a well-established family business with a loyal clientele. So new manager Stephen Lin (a cousin of the Kwok family) faces a dilemma: how to attract new customers to his Southside eatery without losing the essence of what his regulars enjoy. His answer so far lies in the little touches. New sofas add to the already cosy, down-lit atmosphere. An eye-catching array of flowering teas will be served in tall glasses. This is all good, but perhaps sidesteps the bigger question of what’s on the menu. Apart from a few specials, this is mostly limited to the stock dishes. A single ‘dim sum’ option proves to be very tasty shiu mai – evidently freshly steamed to order – and moneybag-shaped parcels of sweet and juicy wafer paper prawns are delicious, if crying out for some ginger or rice vinegar. But Singapore noodles are seriously lacking in spice while pork with chilli and garlic doesn’t make the most of these big flavours. A little more bravery in the kitchen as well as the dining room could really make this restaurant stand out. + Unusual toffee lychee dessert - Little for the more adventurous palate

Loon Fung

2 Warriston Place, Canonmills, Inverleith, EH3 5LE (Map 1: C1, 2) 0131 556 1781/557 0940 | Mon–Thu noon–11pm; Fri noon–midnight; Sat 2pm–midnight; Sun 2–11pm. BYOB (£5); HW £12.50; Wh; T/A; D. £8 (set lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

No restaurant stays in business for almost 40 years without doing something right and Loon Fung evidently has a tried-andtested recipe for success in its little corner of Canonmills. Although some of the ingredients feel a bit dated (staid décor, lengthy menus and those ubiquitous fanned-out napkins), the formula works a treat when it comes to the food. The restaurant serves mainly Cantonese dishes, with an emphasis on seafood, in an atmosphere of subdued bustle and sizzle. The eponymous dumplings are fat and fluffed-up with an unctuous sweet-savoury meat filling, while the crispy duck has the requisite gleaming skin and flaking meat. Prawn specials feature satisfyingly large crustaceans (whole or half-shelled, as you prefer) which work perfectly with a lip-smacking chilli and salt dressing, although an alternative oyster and ginger sauce is a little gloopy. Overall, though, Loon Fung is a dependable constant in Edinburgh’s Chinese restaurant scene and worth the pleasant stroll down Broughton Street. + Jumbo-sized prawns - Lacks a sense of occasion

Miso & Sushi

46a Haymarket Terrace, West End, EH12 5LA See Far East

New Edinburgh Rendezvous

10a Queensferry Street, West End, EH2 4PG (Map 4: C1, 9) 0131 225 2023, edinburghrendezvous.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–11pm; Sun 1–11pm. BYOB (£4); HW £14.95; Kids; T/A; D. £7.99 Mon–Thur & Sun; £8.99 Fri–Sat. (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Located in an area with numerous options for feeding the predominantly student population, Red Box Noodle Bar delivers a simple but enjoyable formula from its minimalist premises. Starters are small plates like crispy spring rolls or tasty, if slightly chewy, beef skewers with a tangy satay sauce. Begin by choosing your preferred noodle type, then add a protein from the five listed, which includes surprisingly tender duck and pork. Tofu is also available on request. There’s a long choice of vegetables, of which three are included in the price, and then a list of sauces. For the less confident, this is the time to get some advice from the counter staff, who make fitting suggestions from a selection featuring fiery Szechuan, fruity Thai sweet chilli, and oyster sauce. Add extra garlic, chilli or ginger, and then a few minutes later, be presented with takeaway-style cartons deep enough to fill the healthiest of appetites. Virtually endless combinations of fast and fresh meals ensure this place will be feeding the hungry for a while to come. + A really simple idea, very well executed - Dig around the carton as the sauce has a habit of sinking right to the bottom

Rice Terraces

93 St Leonard’s Street, Southside, EH8 9QY See Far East

Saigon Saigon Restaurant

14 South St Andrew Street, New Town, EH2 2AZ (Map 1: E5, 105) 0131 557 3737, saigonrestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10.30pm. Veg; BYOB (£5); HW £13.50; Kids; T/A; D. £8.99 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Locals and tourists alike will probably have passed people on Princes Street holding huge signs advertising Saigon Saigon’s buffet lunches. What the signs don’t convey is that this isn’t just another all-you-can-eat snooze-fest of the greatest hits of Westernised Chinese cooking. Their strong reputation means they pack in a sizeable crowd over two floors, often including several tables of Chinese students. Dim sum is the house

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Edinburgh speciality. The char sui pork buns are a sweet and doughy delight, and the prawn wontons are filled with a generous helping of firm, flavoursome shellfish. It would be a mistake, though, to think that choices are limited to small steamed & fried plates. The Peking style sole has a subtle sauce of ginger and garlic, while classic roast duck under a plum sauce is both meaty and juicy. And having discovered that diners are willing to try new experiences, the menu keeps expanding and developing. Desserts include above-average fritters, but also more unusual dishes like mango and tapioca puddings. With helpful guidance from attentive staff, this is a city centre gem. + An atmospheric and enjoyable experience - Can get pretty noisy

Silver Bowl

• 12 Albert Place, Leith Walk, Leith, EH7 5HN • 135 Restalrig Road, Leith, EH7 6HN • 311 Leith Walk, Leith, EH6 8SA See Takeaway & Home Delivery

✱

Wing Sing Inn

147–149 Dundee Street, Tollcross, EH11 1BP (Map 3: A2, off) 0131 228 6668 | Mon– Fri noon–11pm; Sat/Sun 5pm–11pm. HW £15; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Wing Sing Inn is the kind of inconspicuous place you could pass a hundred times and never consider going into, which would be a real shame. Despite its plain décor, overly bright lights and lack of music, there’s an air of conviviality and adventure inside. Staff happily explain the unfamiliar northern Chinese dishes to the uninitiated (no prawn crackers here), and newcomers sit closely with groups of contented regulars. The menu covers a lot of ground, from a wonton soup with a deliciously fragrant broth containing half a dozen meaty parcels, to cold plates including shredded potato with fried chilli. Pork and seafood feature heavily, and there are a number of intriguing offal-centric choices for the adventurous. Stand-out dishes include a crispy fried salt and pepper squid whose interior really does melt in the mouth, and a single, rich scallop with noodles

and just enough garlic. Wing Sing might not be conducive to a romantic evening, but it most certainly is a place for friends to meet, try myriad plates of food, and enjoy stepping out from run-of-the-mill Chinese dining experiences. + Swift service with everything freshly prepared - Vegetarians should be very clear about their requirements to avoid confusion

Wok and Wine

57a Frederick Street, New Town, EH2 1LH (Map 1: C5, 78) 0131 225 2382, wokandwine.co.uk | Mon–Sun 5.30– 11pm. Veg; HW £16.50; Kids (under 5); T/A. £19 (dinner)

Tucked among the stylish venues of the New Town, Wok and Wine is one of Edinburgh’s most forwardthinking Chinese restaurants. Instead of employing tired clichés, its enthusiastic proprietor Stephanie Lo has taken a potentially awkward basement space and turned it into a sophisticated dining destination. Tables easily accommodate affectionate couples or after-office groups, and the atmosphere is enhanced by mood lighting, muted tones and creatively employed wooden screens. This contemporary approach is reflected in the menu, which doesn’t overlook classics like lemon chicken, but also features many pan-Asian influences. Fantastic “wok bites” are designed to be shared, and include the popular crunchy and creamy chicken moneybags, crispy dumplings, and tasty though slightly spongy fish-cakes. Main courses are equally inviting, from succulent steamed cod in a delicate ginger and spring onion sauce that complements rather than overwhelms the fish, to tender, flavoursome shredded duck and sizzling beef hot plates featuring meat from the Borders. Wok and Wine is raising the standard of Chinese food in Edinburgh, and should be applauded for its success so far. + Plenty of banqueting and sharing options for those who love variety - Uninspired desserts make a disappointing end to the experience

Xanadu Chinese Restaurant

13–14 Dalziel Place, Meadowbank, New Town, EH7 5TP (Map 1: H3, off) 0131 661 8981, xanadurestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Thu 5–11pm; Fri noon–2pm, 5–11pm; Sat/ Sun 5–11pm. Pre; BYOB (£4); HW £11.90; Kids; T/A; D. £5.90 (set lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

Husband and wife team Colin and Irene Chiu run this friendly neighbourhood restaurant perched just off the main road through Meadowbank. Named after an emperor’s summer palace, Xanadu’s own décor is simple and functional with Chinese scenes on the pale blue walls and wipe-clean cloths on the tables. On the menu you’ll find all the familiar dishes with a few dim sum options and mainly seafood specials to add some variety. The prawn dumplings are gleaming juicy mouthfuls while hong shao fish – a steaming earthenware pot filled with fried haddock, char siu pork and vegetables in a rich gravy-like sauce – is full of umami goodness. Other dishes don’t stand out, although cooked well. A two-course ‘tea time’ menu for £9.90 is served till 9pm, excluding Saturdays, and you can BYOB (although the wine list is very reasonably priced), making Xanadu a good budget choice. It may not be the ‘stately pleasure-dome’ of Coleridge’s famous poem, but Xanadu is a decent, family-run restaurant that knows how to keep its regulars coming back for more. + Everything freshly cooked to order - 20 minutes’ walk from the city centre

FAR EAST FUSION, JAPANESE, MALAYSIAN, KOREAN Edinburgh loves sushi! With venues popping up all over town, there’s no excuse to confuse your maki with your nigiri. From pitstop noodle bars to stylish, fine-dining establishments, the city boasts something for every possible fishy craving. As well as a wealth of Japanese restaurants, there are Korean, Malaysian, Vietnamese and Filipino restaurants to sample, making this a diverse section to suit a variety of tastes, moods and budgets. Reviewers: David Cummins, Kate Temple

ArtCafe Morita JAPANESE 204 Canongate, Old Town, EH8 8DQ (Map 2: E3, 116) 0131 667 1337, artcafe. morita.co.uk | Mon–Sat 8am–6pm, Sun 9am–5pm. BYOB (no charge; only after 4pm); T/A. £7.70 (set lunch)

Positioned halfway down the Royal Mile, ArtCafe Morita combines traditional café, Japanese fast food outlet and ambitious gallery space. Proprietor Kozo Hoshino is the custodian of a large private art collection, the Victor Murphy Trust, from which he has plucked a dozen pieces to brighten up the café walls. This fascinating ensemble of intricate paintings and colourful drawings contrasts with a rather plain interior and simple furnishings. In addition to permanent artworks, Kozo is planning seasonal guest exhibits such as a Japanese wood block collection for the Festival in 2012. The fast growing menu of home-cooked Japanese treats includes gyoza, a limited selection of made-to-order sushi and various fried noodle dishes. The lunch time set meal of panko covered chicken with curry sauce is great value at £7.70 (with rice and a very capable miso soup). Also watch out for the ochazuke for an authentic Far Eastern snack, a delicate dish of fragrant rice flavoured with green tea and dusted with dried salmon flakes. On the traditional side there are various filled rolls, cakes, fresh Java coffee and even a generous cooked breakfast. + Kozo and John’s warm welcome and contagious enthusiasm - Is haggis sushi a good idea?

✱ Bonsai Bar Bistro JAPANESE

46 West Richmond St, Old Town, EH8 9DZ (Map 2: E5, 79) 0131 668 3847, bonsaibarbistro.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–10.30pm; Sun noon–9.30pm. Veg; BYOB (£5); HW £12.95; Kids (under 2); T/A. £4.90 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

What Bonsai Bar Bistro lacks in size, it makes up for in atmosphere. Bustling and sociable, you’ll have some friendly banter with your waiter, and wind up in conversation with your neighbouring table. The menu, based on small dishes to share, invites a tapas style of ordering. Everything is served together and tables soon get crowded with sizzling griddles and showy sushi rolls. Deep fried squid is crunchy and lemony, and octopus dumplings are crisp outside

and meltingly soft inside. Vegetable and prawn tempura is hot, light and greaseless. Fish comes every other day from Eddie’s Seafood Market down the road and is spankingly bright and fresh. A plate of assorted sashimi is made up of slivers of salmon, tuna, sweet prawns and some seriously delicious scallops. There’s a wide drinks menu that includes Japanese cocktails, iced plum wine, and a variety of sakes and wines. There’s also a daily specials board, a party menu, and some set lunch menus from £4.90 to £9.90, perfect for a quick getaway from the office or library. + Good food in a sociable setting - Figuring out how the tap works

Hay Sushi JAPANESE 15 Dalry Road, West End, EH11 2BQ (Map 4: A3, 32) 0131 337 7522, haysushi.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–3pm, 5–11pm. BYOB (£5); HW £12.95; T/A; D. £9.90 (set lunch) / £16.50 (dinner)

Conveniently located close to Haymarket Station, Hay Sushi is spacious and boldly designed in red, black and white, with blue twinkly lights thrown in for good measure. The menu is huge, with glossy photographs of many dishes to make choosing easier. As well as the usual sushi and sashimi suspects, all of which arrive fresh and tasty, there are some more experimental additions. The volcano roll, a pretty combination of salmon, bright green crab eggs and crunchy Chinese leaves is a delicious meeting of textures, and an avocado side dish, creamy with Japanese mayonnaise, sweet chilli sauce and Tokyo sauce is a pleasant discovery although comes without the advertised seared aubergine. There is also an array of curry, noodle, skewer and tempura dishes to satisfy any craving and budget. Hay does a busy takeaway trade, and there are bento lunchboxes and sushi sets for lunchtime appetites and schedules. + Unusual maki sushi rolls - Unexciting desserts

Hong Fu Noodle NOODLE & SUSHI BARS 3–7 Waterloo Pl, New Town, EH1 3BG See Chinese

Izzi JAPANESE 119 Lothian Road, West End, EH3 9AN (Map 4: D3, 51) 0131 466 9777/466 9888 | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5–11.30pm; Sat noon–11.30pm. Closed Sun. BYOB (£3); HW £12; T/A. £9.90 (set lunch) / £18.50 (dinner)

A stone’s throw from some of Edinburgh’s best cinemas and theatres, Izzi is perfectly located for some pre or post theatre snacking or full on dining, although they may be missing a trick with no pre-theatre set menus. A rarity among sushi bars, it stays open until 11.30pm for those late-night sashimi cravings. Sit by the huge glass shop front window and watch Lothian Road revellers go by, or in the featureless back room - warmer, but somewhat lacking in atmosphere. Serving both Chinese and Japanese food, a platter of mixed sushi is attractively presented and tasty and a main of udon noodles in a salty broth with crispy vegetable tempura is comforting and filling. A plate of squid teppanyaki with rice however is rubbery and tasteless. It may be wiser to stick to the sushi. A new addition to the menu, lunchtime bento boxes for £8.90. + Well located for pre and post theatre dining - Some dishes disappoint

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In association with

Edinburgh Kampong Ah Lee Malaysian Delight MALAYSIAN 28 Clerk Street, Southside, EH8 9HX (Map 3: G1, 47) 0131 662 9050, kampongahlee.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon– 3pm, 5–11pm; Fri–Sun noon–11pm. BYOB (£3); HW £11.50; Kids; T/A. £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

The feverish popularity of this canteen style Malaysian eatery with Edinburgh’s Asian student population is testament to its affordability and authenticity. The compact interior is an entirely unpretentious mix of basic seating, oddcoloured walls, gaudy ornaments and a selection of colourful tourist posters and maps. An extensive menu leans towards the Chinese side of Malaysia’s cultural melting pot, offering a baffling array of meat, seafood, noodle, rice and soup dishes. Worry not, as the helpful staff are only too happy to explain, decipher or recommend. The nasi lemak is particularly good, and comprises chicken curry (on the bone), fried rice, boiled egg, spicy vegetables, anchovies and roasted peanuts. Even the simple dishes are delicious. Achar, for instance, is a hot and sour salad of blanched crispy vegetables with roasted crumbled peanuts. The laksa soup bowl (£6.30) is so gargantuan you could almost swim in it. The creamy, spicy coconut liquor hides prawns, squid, chicken, deep-fried tofu and a handsome swirl of silky rice noodles – delicious and filling, but be prepared for a sweaty brow! + Best satay in town - No desserts, so order more satay!

Kampung Ali Malaysian Delight

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MALAYSIAN 97–101 Fountainbridge, West End, EH3 9QG (Map 4: D4, 35) 0131 228 5069, kampungali.wordpress.com | Mon–

Thu noon–3pm, 5pm–11pm; Fri–Sun noon–11pm. BYOB (£3); HW £11.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £7.50 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Kampung Ali is larger and brighter than the Lee family’s Clerk Street original Kampong Ah Lee. A huge Kuala Lumpur skyline dominates the airy dining room, contrasting rather oddly with a ceiling of Roman frescos remaining from the previous occupant. Kampung and Kampong share the same culinary philosophy – to bring the flavour-packed street foods of South-East Asia to hungry Edinburghers at value for money prices. Roti cenai, a breakfast dish in Malaysia, makes a great starter – fluffy flaky flatbread is torn and dipped into a sumptuous curry sauce. The multitude of curries, soups and stir fries reflect the ethnic diversity of Malaysian cuisine, from the coconut infused beef rendang to the Chinese inspired chao koay teow. This latter dish of broad rice noodles wok-fried with chicken, prawns and crispy bean sprouts is a delicious clash of flavours and textures. Kampung also has a daily specials board and an interesting dessert menu. The gula Malaka pudding is made from giant spheres of tapioca, coconut milk and the sweet sap extracted from the coconut flower – a truly tropical sugar rush! + Friendly and expert waiting staff - Some dishes have bones so ask if unsure

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Kanpai

JAPANESE 8–10 Grindlay Street, West End, EH3 9AS (Map 4: E3, 48) 0131 228 1602, kanpaisushi.co.uk | Tue–Sun noon– 2.30pm, 5–10.30pm. Closed Mon.v HW £17; T/A. £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

lined, grey toned, fine dining, grown up sister. It’s all natural wood, shiny black pendant lights and soft music. Delicately presented dishes are prepared at the long bar, which takes centre stage in the space; it’s also possible to eat there and watch the chefs at work. The menu is quite small and divided into sushi, sashimi, tempura and grilled dishes. A selection of fresh, sweet sashimi atop a huge bowl filled with ice, grilled salmon nigiri, seared and gently warm, crunchy soft shell crab tempura and grilled, sticky aubergine with a sweet miso sauce, makes for a beautiful and satisfying feast. However while flawless in many respects, Kanpai lacks the warm atmosphere of simpler sushi bars and with its stylish private dining room and intimate corners, feels more suited for business meetings and client entertaining than social dining. It may be that it is yet to grow into itself - it’s certainly worth returning to find out. + The beautifully designed bar - Very expensive wines

Kim’s Korean Meals KOREAN 5 Buccleuch Street, Southside, EH8 9JN (Map 3: G1, 41) 0131 629 7951, kimsminimeals.com | Mon–Sat noon– 3pm, 5.30–9pm. Closed Sun. BYOB (£3); T/A. £10 (lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

Kim’s serves simple wholesome Korean meals just as Mrs Kim would prepare for her own family, with jaunty décor, tiny dimensions and ornate floral chinaware adding to the homely atmosphere. A helpful little photo album explains each dish in full colour. The simple pricing structure means mains are mostly £10 (£7 at lunchtime) including soup, a range of mini appetisers and limitless glutinous rice. Hot stone pot dishes make great theatre – bubbling little cauldrons of meat, vegetables and broth. One such steamy creation, dolsot galbi, boasts barbecue pork ribs with a kaleidoscope of mushrooms, carrots and chilli flakes. Osam bulgogi is another novel combination, this time pepper paste infused stewed pork joins tender squid in an unusual yet delicious marriage of textures and flavours. Many dishes feature Korea’s proudest ingredient, kimchee, a spicy sour condiment of fermented cabbage, garlic and spices. In kimchi bokumbab, the home-made vinegary seasoning compliments wokfried seafood rice topped with a sunny side up fried egg. Kim’s has no alcohol licence so best to bring your own or enjoy the refreshing brown rice green tea. + Healthy flavoursome cooking and fabulously friendly service - Slender choice in the dessert department

Koyama JAPANESE 20 Forrest Road, Old Town, EH1 2QN (Map 2: C5, 65) 0131 225 6555, koyama. co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–3pm, 5.30– 10.30pm. HW £12.95; Wh; T/A. £7.90 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Kampong Ah Lee Malaysian Delight: doubling the delight

One of the city’s newest Far Eastern food venues, Koyama ticks most of the required boxes. The décor is appropriately Japanese – black and white textured walls are scattered with shiny Hokusai prints and red paper lanterns shine above a dozen blue melamine table tops. The lighting level is a tad bright for a romantic encounter but perfect if you’ve forgotten your reading glasses. Of the hundred items on the photogenic menu, the hot dishes stand out proudest. The teryaki chicken is sticky and sizzling on a bed of crunchy bean sprouts. Gyoza

✱ HITLIST FAR EAST ✱ Bonsai Bar Bistro Full to the brim with atmosphere, Bonsai serves imaginative and seasonal variations on Japanese classics. ✱ Kampong Ali Malaysian Delight Exotic flavours of a Malaysian hawker stall without the sweltering heat and traffic fumes. ✱ Kanpai Edinburgh’s home of Japanese fine dining, Kanpai is an elegantly designed restaurant serving exquisitely presented dishes. ✱ Sushiya Spankingly fresh and delicious sushi, noodles and rice dishes served in a tiny, neat and stylish neighbourhood bar. are good too, achieving that crispy yet soft counterbalance, a feat repeated in the chef‘s excellent soft shell crab tempura. While the sushi and sashimi look the part and taste fresh enough, they miss out on texture and build quality. California sushi rolls are a visually stunning contrast of white rice, vivid orange flying fish roe, yellow omelette and avocado, yet the seaweed is too thick making them difficult to eat. Lunchtime sees a cheaper streamlined menu including golden katsu curry (£7.50) and quirky bento boxes (from £8.90). + Smiley, sincere serving staff - Pale, watery, over-chilled tuna sashimi

Miso & Sushi JAPANESE 46a Haymarket Terrace, West End, EH12 5LA (Map 4: A3, off) 0131 337 7466, sushiedinburgh.com | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5–11pm; Sat/Sun 1–11pm. BYOB (£3); HW £15; Kids; T/A; D. £13.50 (lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

Going to Miso and Sushi is like going back in time. The décor can’t have changed in years. Glaring lights preside over a corridor of booths lined with wood and ancient flock wallpaper. It’s in desperate need of a spruce up. However, if there’s no love spent on the interior, that’s because it all gets lavished on the food. A long menu, both Japanese and Chinese, has all the classics, plus a few more, and the friendly staff will happily talk you through it. A dragon roll, looking not unlike the Loch Ness monster, is theatrically presented on a huge white platter. Salmon teriyaki ramen, complete with a boiled egg, is tasty and nourishing in a rich stock, although the special of grilled salmon belly, drenched in grease and oil, disappoints. There’s a constant stream of customers coming in for takeaway and given that the food’s good and the interior isn’t, that might be your best option. Otherwise, embrace the feeling of being in a retro film set, and enjoy the attention to detail on your plate. + The food - The interior The List Eating & Drinking Guide 59

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Edinburgh bamboo dish. It’s nothing fancy, but it’s good value home cooking. If you have room for a dessert, choices include ube halayan, a rich purple yam and coconut soufflé and a banana and jackfruit spring roll with coconut ice cream. + Hearty, warming home cooking . . . - . . . although some dishes lack flavour

Nagoya Original Sushi Restaurant JAPANESE 21 Dalziel Place, EH7 5TP (Map 1: H3, off) 0131 661 3200, inagoya.co.uk | Tue–Sun noon–3pm, 5–11pm. Closed Mon. HW £12.95; Kids (under 5); T/A; D. £7.70 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

New to Meadowbank, Japanese restaurant Nagoya feels like it needs a little time to grow into itself. Let’s hope that it does, because this is an area that sorely needs a cosy neighbourhood restaurant or two. It’s a promising beginning – a neat-as-a-pin interior with pretty yellow shell wallpaper and an appealing, good-value menu with lots of choice. Prawn and vegetable gyoza are neatly presented and tasty, as are scallop and spring onion skewers, served in a sticky, sweet sauce. A mixed rolled sushi platter is good, although doesn’t wow, and a mixed prawn and vegetable tempura comes with lots of prawns but only one vegetable. There’s also a ‘home cooking’ section with dishes such as mapo tofu, tofu and minced pork in a chilli and bean sauce. At lunch times, there’s a very reasonable meal deal for £7.70. For dessert, you can have strawberry daifuku, a combination of glutinous rice, red bean paste and fresh strawberries. Meaning ‘great luck’, it’s an appropriate end to a meal. One wishes it wholeheartedly for Nagoya. + Very reasonably priced - Slightly lacking in atmosphere

Shilla KOREAN 13b Dundas Street, New Town, EH3 6QG (Map 1: D4, 38) 0131 556 4840, shillaedinburgh.com | Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm; 5.30–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–10.30pm. Closed Sun. BYOB (£5); HW £12.50; Kids; T/A. £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

No 1 Sushi Bar JAPANESE 37 Home Street, Tollcross, EH3 9JP (Map 3: B1, 7) 0131 229 6880, no1sushibar. co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5pm– 11pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm. BYOB (£5); HW £14.90; T/A. £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

In a handy spot for some pre or post cinema sushi munching, No 1 Sushi’s glowing red lamps draw you in from the cold. Inside, you’re surrounded by a crazy clash of black patterned wallpapers as you peruse the classic-filled menu. A sashimi salad – a pretty mix of fish, leaves, cucumber and seaweed in a tangy dressing – is a light and fresh starter, while a mixed vegetable tempura is a huge platter of sweet potato, squash, pepper and aubergine in a light(ish) batter. For mains, choose from noodle soups, stir fries and rice sets, or stick to the large selection of good quality sushi. The maki sushi are particularly tempting, with a dark dragon roll with eel, cucumber and avocado coming up trumps. No 1 Sushi may not break any new ground in Edinburgh’s sushi scene, but next time you crave a deep bowl of noodles in broth after stumbling out of the Cameo, it might be just what you’re looking for. + Lovely sashimi salad - Lacks the wow factor

Oishii JAPANESE 176 Rose Street, New Town, EH2 4AB (Map 1: B6, 51) 0131 225 5286, oishiiscotland.co.uk | Apr–Dec: Mon– Sun noon–10.30pm. Jan–Mar: Mon–Sat noon–10.30pm. HW £14; T/A. £7.50 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Oishii is an apt moniker for this small and stylish sushi bar at the quieter end of Rose Street. The name translates as ‘delicious‘, a plaudit easily earned by the chef’s excellent hand rolls. The ebi te maki combines crispy tempura prawn, tiny baubles of salty tobiko (flying fish roe) and creamy avocado, all carefully assembled in a cone of rice and seaweed. Smiling chef Katsuo prepares the cold dishes in full view of

Pho Vietnam House: a tiny corner of culinary adventure

the assembled crowd, calmly and deftly packing, rolling and slicing. In addition to a dazzling selection of salads, sushi and sashimi, Oishii prepare an array of tasty hot dishes. Sticky gingery chargrilled yakitori skewers are available in chicken, beef, squid or tuna, making an ideal accompaniment to a steaming bowl of fried udon. Oishii has three simple lunchtime set menus priced at £7.50 and a growing following for the inexpensive yet varied takeaway menu. Whilst desserts are hardly the main attraction, the chef makes a mean banana tempura and the green tea ice-cream would make a refreshing finale to any meal. + Watching chef Katsuo and listening to his entertaining stories - Small is beautiful unless you haven’t booked

Pho Vietnam House VIETNAMESE 3 Grove Street, West End, EH3 8AF (Map 4: B3, 31) 0131 228 3383, vietnamhousescotland.com | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 5–10pm; Sat 5–10pm. Closed Sun. BYOB (£1); T/A. £14.50 (lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

Tucked away on a side street, family run Pho Vietnam House is Edinburgh’s only Vietnamese restaurant. Eating here is a bit like having dinner in your best friend’s living room, it’s small and cosy and you get a cup of lotus tea from owner Jodie Nguyen when you arrive. There are oil paintings on the walls and colourful hand woven mats on the tables. To start, a choice of fried or fresh spring rolls come with a dipping sauce. Follow up with a bowl of steaming pho – rice noodle soup with a choice of pork, chicken, prawn or vegetable. It comes with a plate piled high with bean sprouts, mint and lime, so you can garnish to your own taste. Comfort food in a

bowl, it’s light, fragrant and flavourful. Other mains include braised catfish with ginger and mushrooms, stir fried chicken drumsticks with lemongrass and chilli or fried seafood noodles, studded with vegetables. Every dish is fresh and bright, with keynote citrus, peanut and mint flavours. This is one noodle house you might want to take a detour to find. + Fresh and fragrant dishes lovingly served - A shame they close at 10pm

Red Box Noodle Bar NOODLE & SUSHI BARS 51–53 West Nicolson Street, Southside See Chinese

Rice Terraces FILIPINO 93 St Leonard’s Street, Southside, EH8 9QY (Map 3: H2, 52) 0131 629 9877, riceterraces.com | Tue–Fri 5–11pm; Sat/Sun 10am–11pm. Closed Mon. HW £9.95; T/A. £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

Edinburgh’s only Filipino restaurant, Rice Terraces is a tiny, homely place, made cosy with green and white tablecloths, red candles and a sweeping photograph of rice fields adorning one wall. Original ‘fusion’ cuisine, Filipino cooking reflects Chinese, Malaysian, Spanish and American influences and while the menu may seem unfamiliar, there’s plenty of help and advice on hand, including the suggestion that bitter melon is an acquired taste. The menu, divided into vegetable, beef, pork, chicken and seafood dishes, features lots of stews and hotpots which arrive bubbling on a hotplate. A stew with chicken, plantain, chorizo and chickpeas is chunky and hearty, although a little bland, while string beans and squash simmered in coconut milk is fresh and colourful with a hint of ginger. A side of rice studded with shrimp and vegetables comes served in a

Reached by a long, steep staircase, Korean restaurant Shilla occupies a sprawling, maze-like New Town basement, divided into many small dining rooms. It feels a bit like being in an underground grotto, a curious one complete with murals of people and hens. Chatty and helpful staff immediately bring a selection of tasty, spicy appetisers to get your juices flowing. A starter of seafood and spring onion Korean omelette with a fiery dipping sauce hits all the hot, salty and oily buttons and is absolutely delicious. The hot pot main of soya bean broth with tofu, clams and vegetables served with rice is rich and red with chillis and tomatoes, and some interesting finds deep in the bowl like crab claws and straw mushrooms. Also on the menu, rice and noodle dishes aplenty and a long list of char-grilled meats and fish. If you want to pay a bit more, there are some intriguing dishes listed under ‘chef’s special’, deep fried flying crab or stir fried sea cucumber with exotic vegetables. + That omelette - Being in the basement feels a bit claustrophobic

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Sushiya

JAPANESE 19 Dalry Road, West End, EH11 2BQ (Map 4: A3, 34) 0131 313 3222, sushiya. co.uk | Tue–Thu & Sun noon–2.30pm, 5–10.30pm; Fri noon–2.30pm, 5–11pm; Sat noon–3pm, 5–11pm. Closed Mon. HW £15.95; T/A. £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Enter through a lime green door into a tiny, minimal and stylish sliver of Japan. Everything at Sushiya is neatly and prettily presented, from the chopstick rests and soy sauce pourers to the special sashimi set, a selection of 20 pieces of the day’s freshest fish, garnished with wasabi, cucumber, and flourishes of white radish curls. A painterly palette of whites and pinks, tuna, salmon, mackerel, surf clam, octopus, sweet shrimp and scallop arrive so fresh they’re almost quivering. As well as a wide sushi selection, there are soup based noodle, rice, tempura and grilled dishes and a few appetising specials. The deep fried bean curd is just the right combination of crisp and melt in the mouth. For main dishes, the seafood ramen soup of broth, noodles, spring onions and seaweed, generously topped with breaded seafood, is comfort food in a deep bowl, and the teriyaki chicken with sticky rice, pickles and miso soup is rich and sweet. Finish up with a scoop of creamy green tea icecream. + Delicious fresh sashimi - Sitting by the mirrored wall is disconcerting

Tang’s JAPANESE 44 Candlemaker Row, Old Town, EH1 2QE (Map 2: C4, 53) 0131 220 5000, tangsgohan.com | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 6–9.30pm; Sat/Sun

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noon–10.30pm. HW £14.50; Kids; T/A. £18 (dinner)

Tang’s stern exterior belies a warm heart. Amid the sleek lacquered wood interior, colourful silk screens and lampshades emit a welcoming glow. So venture inside, enjoy a cup of green tea, pop some edemame beans and let the charming staff guide you through the menu and specials. Owner, Mr Tang is an accomplished chef, caring as much about the texture of his sushi rice as he does about the beautiful presentation of his sashimi platters and exquisite bento boxes. In addition to sushi and sashimi, the menu explores a selection of hot dishes such as teryaki, fried noodles and tempura. The teryaki salmon appears on a sizzling platter, elegant shards of fish balanced on bean sprouts and broccoli with plenty of rich, sticky sauce. The tempura soft shell crab cleverly combines light crispy batter, creamy crabmeat and delicate dashi dipping sauce. The grilled miso cod is particularly good, a real umami flavour explosion. For the ultimate FrancoJapanese dessert, indulge yourself in the matcha crème brûlée, rich caramelised custard infused with green tea powder. Sounds weird, tastes great! + Top quality Japanese fare with a smile - Slightly stale dorayaki pancakes

Wagamama NOODLE & SUSHI BARS 1 Castle Terrace, West End, EH1 2DP (Map 4: D2, 59) 0131 229 5506, wagamama.com | Mon–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 12.30–10pm. HW £14.25; Kids; Wh; T/A. £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

The long tables, big bowls of slurpy noodles, upbeat East Asian tempo and cool branding have been a prominent part of High Street eating in Britain for nearly 20 years. It had almost become an indictment that a city with Edinburgh’s dining culture was without its Wagamama fix, a gap now filled in a convenient former bank on Lothian Road. That novelty factor goes some way to explaining the continued clamour for a table, with hopeful diners regularly happy to queue out of the door, eager to embrace the slick efficiency of operation, the positive attitude to kids, vegetarians, lone diners and hungry appetites. With huge servings of curries with sticky white rice, soupy Ramen noodles or griddle-flashed teppan, and no shortage of fresh, lively ingredients, there’s little denying its zestful appeal. Just a pity that flavours can be absent in key areas making some dishes rather onedimensional. + Japanese-inspired food that’s fresh and fast . . - . . . unless you have to queue for a table that is . .

Yes Sushi JAPANESE 89 Hanover Street, New Town, EH2 1EE (Map 1: D5, 95) 0131 220 1887, yessushi. co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–midnight. HW £14.95; Kids; T/A. £12 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Centrally located Yes Sushi attracts a mix of city folk and visitors. The pleasant red and black interior is generic Japanese (paper lanterns, drawings of geishas etc.) and yet the place has a decidedly Chinese undertone. The hotpot and sushi all-you-can-eat deal (£17.99 per person) is the star attraction for those with healthy appetites. As the numerous plumes of steam testify, the hotpot is a popular choice, and great fun. Choose from a selection of over 30 high quality seafood, wafer thin meats, vegetables and noodles. You can even

customise your own dipping liquor from an array of pastes, herbs and potions at the sauce table. Fresh crab, razor clams, squid and prawns are all superb, with beef tripe or congealed bean curd for the adventurous. The accompanying sushi rolls are ordered as required (good but a bit crumbly). For those less peckish, the illustrated à la carte offers a brain ache of choices from Japanese staples such as katsu curry to more unusual dishes like barbecued eel or octopus salad. For dessert, it is difficult to resist the logicdefying tempura ice-cream. + Yes Sushi Yes Hotpot - What, I have to cook my own dinner!

Yo! Sushi JAPANESE Harvey Nichols, 30–34 St Andrew Square, New Town, EH2 2AD (Map 1: E5, 113) 0131 341 1771, yosushi.com | Sun/Mon 11.30am–5.30pm; Tue–Sat 11.30am–9pm. HW £14.40; Kids; Wh; T/A. £13.50 (lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

Yo! Sushi shares a fourth floor location with Harvey Nichols’ up-market brasserie and food market. Diners gather round to watch industrious sushi chefs conjure up miniature plates of magic for the revolving conveyor belt. The eight colour-coded plates range from green (£1.70) up to yellow (£6). Green plates are simple dishes like salted edemame beans or sweet omelette nigiri, whereas yellow ones are more luxurious. The scallop katsu, for instance, consists of three plump scallops fried in panko breadcrumbs served with wasabi mayonnaise – think posh scampi! The menu offers a good selection of salads, sushi, and sashimi, as well as many hot dishes. You can snatch plates from the belt or order from the waiter using the convenient buzzer. For an interesting dessert try the mochi, a soft Japanese cake made using sticky rice flour, available with sweet adzuki bean paste or gooey chocolate fillings. + High quality conveyor belt sushi at its best - Ambience is slightly ‘airport departure lounge’

ごはん処 Japanese Dining

Yocoko NOODLE & SUSHI BARS 45 South Bridge, Old Town, EH1 1LL (Map 2: D4, 78) 0131 558 3889, yocoko. com | Mon–Sun noon–11.30pm. HW £7.40; Wh; T/A. £8.50 (lunch) / £8.50 (dinner)

Open ‘til 11.30pm every night of the week, Yocoko is the kind of place you find yourself in when everywhere else is closed and you really need some salty snacks to soak up that last pint. It’ll satisfy that craving, but it probably won’t do a huge amount more. There’s a vast and somewhat overwhelming Pan-Asian menu, featuring noodle soups, wok fried noodles, rice dishes, curries, grills and almost everything in between. Dishes are cheap, with most dishes around the £5 mark, but the results are hit and miss. A Japanese seafood grill arrives sizzling but is disappointingly gloopy and watery and doesn’t taste very fresh. Roast duck fried rice is tasteless and greasy. Starters such as spring rolls and sesame prawn toasts, served in cheery red boats, fare slightly better. However, if you ain’t fussed about quality and what you’re looking for is a cheap, hot, salty meal washed down with a cold beer, then this might be just the place. + Hot food served late . . - . . . but it may not taste that good

Zen Kitchen FUSION 138 Dundas Street, New Town, EH3 5DQ See Takeaway & Home Delivery

Japanese Family Run Dining 日本人経営のおいしいお店 Take Away・お持ち帰り Outside Catering・仕出し承ります Sunday Sushi Class・日曜日のお寿司教室

おいしいよ

Open 7 Days for Lunch and Dinner

44 Candlemaker Row, Edinburgh EH1 2QE www.tangsgohan.com 0131 220 5000 The List Eating & Drinking Guide 61

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FISH

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Edinburgh

FISH Scotland is renowned for its fish and shellfish, and in recent years there’s been a determined effort among local restaurateurs to promote the abundance of high quality, sustainable seafood caught in Scottish waters. So a visit to one of Edinburgh’s fish restaurants will likely bring you into contact with the sheer variety of produce on offer, from the relatively commonplace to species you’ve never heard of. While quality is generally high there’s plenty of diversity in terms of atmosphere, from chic dining rooms to friendly retreats and bustling canteen-style restaurants serving pot after pot of mussels. Reviewer: Allan Radcliffe

*** Café Fish

15 North West Circus Place, Stockbridge, EH3 6SX (Map 5: C5, 37) 0131 225 4431, cafefish.net | Mon–Sat noon–9.30pm; Sun noon–8pm. HW £16; Kids. £11 (lunch) / £22 (set dinner)

Having moved premises from Leith in July 2011, Café Fish’s new home in the heart of Stockbridge is double the size of its predecessor at 76 covers, comfortably but sparely decked out with the original art deco features brought to the fore and a kitchen/hatch area that extends out into the body of the restaurant. This elegant simplicity extends to the food. Owner Richard Muir is keen on local produce and the menu changes daily depending on availability. There’s an in-house ban on dustings, swirls and foams (not to mention sides) in favour of unfussy,

beautifully cooked and presented fish and seafood dishes. This is in evidence from a starter of sardines, whose distinctive favour is brought out by just a squeeze of lemon juice, and fishcakes with insides beaten to a feathery lightness. A main course fillet of gurnard arrives with smooth garlic mash and spinach complemented by a sweet shellfish bisque while pan roast North Atlantic cod is cooked until just translucent and served with a fine tagliolini in a spicy tomato sauce. Desserts such as a white chocolate and raspberry crème brulée are also topnotch, there’s a carefully chosen wine list and the reasonable prices and attentive service are likely to inspire repeat visits. + Sardines cooked to perfection - Very small choice of desserts

Café Royal Circle Bar

19 West Register Street, New Town, EH2 2AA See Bars & Pubs

Café Royal Oyster Bar

19a West Register Street, New Town, EH2 2AA (Map 1: F5, 106) 0131 556 1884, caferoyal.org.uk | Mon–Sun noon–2pm, 6–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am– 10pm; Sun 12.30pm–10pm.] LC; HW £14.25; Kids. £25 (lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Restaurants come and go in the capital, but few have thrived under the same banner for 150 years. Dining in the Café Royal Oyster Bar you do feel as though you’re travelling back in time, being surrounded by immaculate murals, lowhanging lamps and venerable stainedglass windows that come to life when the sun hits them. There’s no music in the restaurant to break the spell, just the constant hum from the adjacent bar and the satisfied murmurings of fellow diners. Inevitably, oysters are a big draw here and are served serveral ways: simply, on crushed ice with lemon; in the famous

Rockefeller style, on spinach with a light mornay sauce; or Kilpatrick featuring bacon and balsamic, which rather clashes with the salty taste of the oyster. A generous seafood platter contains lobster, scallops, smoked salmon and calamari, and there’s an appealing selection of hot smoked dishes, including tender haddock with poached egg served with a creamy white wine and mustard risotto or a golden-brown salmon Wellington stuffed with a rich wild mushroom and white wine cream sauce. The nicely described wine list and small selection of desserts allows you to sit back in these rarefied surroundings for a little longer. + Enjoying fine food in elegant surroundings - It can be a bit of a squeeze when very busy

Creelers

3 Hunter Square, Old Town, EH1 1QW (Map 2: D3, 18) 0131 220 4447, creelers. co.uk | Mon & Thu 5–10.30pm; Fri 11.30am–2.30pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sat 11am–10.30pm; Sun 5.30–10.30pm. Closed Tue/Wed. LC; Pre; HW £18; Kids. £10.50 (set lunch) / £28 (dinner)

Creelers’ proprietor, Tim James, started work as a fisherman a quarter of a century ago and he and his wife Fran are co-founders of the Arran Smokehouse and regularly sell fresh fish and seafood at local farmers’ markets. With such a pedigree you’d expect Creelers’ Edinburgh branch to focus exclusively on les fruits de mer, but their menus are strikingly varied, both in content and price. The Old Town restaurant has the look and feel of a continental bistro, decked out in warm yellows, reds and blues plus a large mural of the Isle of Arran – from which area much of the produce is sourced. Diners can make their selection from one of the set lunch or dinner menus or the à la carte, and

there are various fish of the day specials on offer too. Start with a groaning plate of langoustines, simply prepared with garlic, butter and a squeeze of lemon, or a dense, smoky fishcake with garlic mayonnaise on the side. Mains are similarly unfussy in their presentation and include sweet, flaky halibut served with a light beurre blanc and smooth herb mash or a fillet of Loch Duart salmon with crushed potatoes and creamed leeks. Inevitably, fish and seafood is to the fore here, from mixed seafood pasta to fish stew and good old-fashioned fish and chips, but there are also beef and venison dishes on offer, all prepared using the best Scottish ingredients. + Knowledgably sourced fish and seafood in convivial surroundings - A la carte menu contains a bewildering array of options

Fishers Bistro

1 The Shore, Leith, EH6 6QW (Map 5: D3, 13) 0131 554 5666, fishersbistros. co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–10.30pm; Sun 12.30–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–1am.] HW £14.95; Kids. £12.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Fishers Restaurant Group now comprises two main branches as well as the Shore Bar & Restaurant, which stands adjacent to the original Leith eaterie. While both the Leith and city centre restaurants bear the Fishers moniker, the two venues couldn’t be more different. Fishers in Leith, which first opened its doors more than two decades ago, has a laid-back vibe and a cosy atmosphere that reflects its location in a former watchtower, while the city branch has a smarter, contemporary feel to it. While Fishers in the City offers slightly more choice, including a dedicated vegetarian menu, neither branch is lacking in imaginative food options and the choice of dishes ranges from the deceptively simple, such as a starter of Arbroath smokie kedgeree served with a potato scone, to startling fusions such as Loch Tarbet king scallops with a coconut coriander dhal offset by a smooth apple sauce. This dining dichotomy extends to the mains, which include a fillet of Loch Duart salmon served with Jerusalem artichoke, cous cous, hot smoked salmon, pea shoots and Parmesan and a to-die-for Indonesian curry created from coley and king prawns and flavoured with sweet potato, banana and coconut. With reasonablypriced early dining options also on offer, Fishers remains a beacon of reliability, whichever end of the town you happen to find yourself in. + Indonesian fish curry - The sheer amount of choice

Fishers in the City

58 Thistle Street, New Town, EH2 1EN (Map 1: D5, 83) 0131 225 5109, fishersbistros.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–1am; Sun 12.30pm–1am.] Veg; Pre; HW £14.95; Kids. £13 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner) See entry above.

Guchhi Indian Seafood and Bar

9/10 Commercial Street, Leith, EH6 6JA See Indian

The King’s Wark

36 The Shore, Leith, EH6 6QU See Bars & Pubs

Loch Fyne Restaurant

Ondine: pull up to the horseshoe-shaped crustacean bar for some of the city’s finest shellfish

25 Pier Place, Newhaven Harbour, Leith, EH6 4LP (Map 5: A2, off) 0131 559 3900, lochfyne-restaurants.com | Mon–Fri 10am–10pm; Sat 10am–10.30pm; Sun 10am–10pm.

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FISH

In association with

Edinburgh HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £9.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

While not quite the original, Edinburgh’s branch of the Loch Fyne Restaurant does enjoy its own prime location at Newhaven Harbour with pleasant views over the Forth. The building may have the depth and height of an air hanger, but the floor-to-ceiling windows and pale wood fixtures and flooring give the place a lovely bright atmosphere, while the open kitchen offers a welcome view of the chefs at work. Many of the raw ingredients here are accredited by the Marine Conservation Society. Inevitably, shellfish options are a particular highlight and these range from simple servings of oysters to deluxe platters of mussels, clams, langoustines, crayfish and squid. A starter of lobster bisque is rich in flavour without being overwhelmingly seasoned while the main course seafood selection is a generous stack of grilled salmon, sea bass and king prawn with seared scallops enlivened by a lemon parsley butter. Only the old-fashioned fish and chips disappoints, with the haddock overdone and smothered in a rather salty batter, but this is the only significant complaint in an otherwise enjoyable experience. + Wonderful shellfish to be enjoyed in a lovely location - The overcooked haddock

The Mussel and Steak Bar

110 West Bow, Grassmarket, Old Town, EH1 2HH (Map 2: C4, 44) 0131 225 5028, musselandsteakbar.com | Mon–Thu noon–2.45pm, 6–10pm; Fri–Sun noon– 10pm. Pre; HW £13.75; Kids; Wh. £9.50 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

The Mussel and Steak Bar is an unambiguous name for an eaterie whose menus offer endless choice for lovers of seafood and meat dishes. Thanks to its central location at the eastern end of the Grassmarket, the restaurant attracts a large and varied clientele, creating a lively atmosphere, particularly on the ground floor of the two-storey premises. The range of menu offers means you can enjoy a three-course lunch for under £12 while pre-theatre and special catch of the day options are also available. Unsurprisingly, mussels are a major element of the à la carte and can be enjoyed in various sizes of pots or as part of the eye-popping surf’n’turf, which also includes 8oz rib-eye steak, crevettes and squid. Starters include queen scallops with a nice grilled flavour enhanced by gruyere cheese sauce and bacon, and sweet crayfish tails, though these are served with an overdone black pudding and a rather uninspired beetroot salad. The hot roast seafood platter features a pleasing mix of clams, mussels, oysters, queen scallops and crevettes, all roasted with lemon and aioli. There’s so much variety and at such reasonable prices that even the fussiest diner should find something to their taste. + Good-value menus with lots of variety - Some of the dishes lack finesse

Mussel Inn

61–65 Rose Street, New Town, EH2 2NH (Map 1: D5, 71) 0131 225 5979, mussel-inn.com | Mon–Thu noon–3pm, 5.30–10pm; Fri–Sun 12.30pm–10pm. Pre; HW £13.80; Kids; Wh. £7.50 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

The Mussel Inn, on Edinburgh’s pedestrian-heavy Rose Street, is a living rebuttal to the claim that diners are suspicious of seafood restaurants in the city centre. The brightly-lit, bustling space, with its tightly-packed tables, swarm of waiting staff and cheerfully painted walls would resemble a Mediterranean café were it not for the window-filling view of Primark across

the road. Once seated, customers are processed quickly and efficiently and there’s a good deal of variety to the menu, from pots of mussels in different sizes to oysters and grilled platters. Of the latter, the simple options are more successful, such as juicy grilled queen scallops in garlic butter with rocket and sun-blushed tomato. The main course hot seafood platter is certainly an abundant dish of beautifully cooked scallops, prawns and mussels topped with a sea bass fillet, though the lightly grilled taste is rather overwhelmed by a rich chive crème fraiche. The specials are worth a look and might include hake, pan-fried and offset by nicely textured lemon herb crushed potatoes. Away from the à la carte there’s a very reasonable pre-theatre menu, while the addition of a lunch offer for £7.50 can mean there’s occasionally no room at the Inn. + Mussels, mussels everywhere - Turnaround is incredibly quick

The Newington Traditional Fish Bar

23 South Clerk St, Southside, EH8 9JD See Takeaway & Home Delivery

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Ondine

2 George IV Bridge, Old Town, EH1 1AD (Map 2: C3, 35) 0131 226 1888, ondinerestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–3pm, 5.30–10pm. Pre; HW £16.50; Kids; Wh. £16.95 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

Ondine has quickly established itself as a respected fixture on the city-centre dining scene. Located next to the smart Missoni Hotel, the second-floor restaurant offers mesmerising views over George IV Bridge and Victoria Street, while diners can also perch at the horseshoe-shaped Crustacean Bar. The clean, stylish décor and discreetly attentive waiting staff contrast nicely with the relaxed vibe of the restaurant: contemporary jazz plays overhead and there’s a pleasant, unselfconscious buzz about the place. Display cases of shellfish introduce the main theme as you arrive. It’s difficult to see past the roast shellfish platter for two, a comprehensive selection of lobster, langoustines, clams and mussels simply prepared with garlic and herb butter. But there are plenty of versatile options elsewhere on the menu. A starter of brown crab arrives incredibly fresh, complemented by slivers of sweet walnut toast while the squid tempura comes with a Vietnamese sauce that packs a garlic and ginger punch. The main course of Cornish sea bass rests on a stack of boulangere potatoes and a rich shrimp and Beaujolais sauce, while the tender John Dory combines with clams and gnocchi to create a mix of fish and shells that is light and tasty (if ultimately a little too salty). Desserts are worth taking a punt on and include a lovely rustic treacle tart. Overall the fine food and attention to detail make it worth saving up a trip to Ondine for a special occasion – but, whatever time of year you choose to go, the informal atmosphere and reasonable prices won’t intimidate. + Excellent food in a surprisingly informal atmosphere - With such a mouthwatering menu one visit is not enough

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The Ship on the Shore

24–26 The Shore, Leith, EH6 6QN (Map 5: D3, 15) 0131 555 0409, theshipontheshore.co.uk | Mon–Sun 9am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon– 1am; Sun 12.30–1am.] Pre; HW £15; Kids. £13 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

A popular fixture on the Leith scene for nearly a quarter of a century, the Ship on the Shore can genuinely be said to

offer something for everyone – as long as you’re not averse to fresh, beautifully prepared fish and seafood. Opening its doors with breakfast from 9am and serving food until late, the cosy, wood-panelled restaurant is noted for the generous array of dishes on offer, from reasonably priced set lunch menus through to the fruits de mer ‘royale’, for three people sharing and served with champagne for £115. Popular à la carte options include the Ship’s hearty Cullen skink and a whole roast sea bass that’s nicely complemented by a refreshing sun blushed tomato and hazelnut salsa, though the addition of hefty Stornoway Black Pudding Croquettes is an unnecessary, overly heavy accompaniment. A special of sweet steamed surf clams is prepared simply but effectively with garlic, herbs and serrano ham, and for shellfish fans, the crustacean and mollusc combos range from Oysters with Guinness to moules frites. The extensive wine list is worth taking time to pore over and the Ship’s cheesecake is something of an institution, with flavours ranging from peanut butter to Ferrero Rocher. + The mind-boggling range of dishes on offer - Having to come to a decision

The Skerries

Dunstane House Hotel, 4 West Coates, West End, EH12 5JQ See Scottish

Sweet Melindas

11 Roseneath Street, Southside, EH9 1JH (Map 3: E3, 37) 0131 229 7953, sweetmelindas.co.uk | Mon 6–10pm; Tue–Sat noon–2pm, 6–10pm. Closed Sun. Pre; BYOB (£3; Tue eve only); HW £16; Kids. £12.50 (set lunch) / £22.50 (dinner)

Sweet Melindas is the very definition of cosy neighbourhood hangout. The one-room Marchmont restaurant’s white-painted wooden panelling, found black-and-white photographs and shelves of assorted bric-a-brac lend it a quaint but pleasant ambience, and while it can get very busy at weekends, the muted lighting and mellow jazz soundtrack make it ideal for intimate dining. Fish and seafood are to the fore here, with owner/chef Kevin O’Connor sourcing most of his raw ingredients from Eddie’s Seafood Market a few doors down and the set-price menus changing according to seasonal availability. Classic starters include a plate of sardines, grilled, the flavour enhanced by garlic and rosemary, while the squid salad is enlivened by a fresh-tasting blend of coriander, lime and cucumber. Mains range from roast Icelandic wolffish served with a robust Savoy cabbage and pancetta concoction with sautéed potatoes to dishes betraying a Far Eastern influence, such as a grilled red gurnard with king prawns, ginger, soy and toasted sesame oil or organic salmon and mussels with coconut milk, ginger and coriander. All the menus offer friendly tips on wine choices and the waiting staff are well versed in the character and provenance of the ingredients. + Assured dishes in a convivial atmosphere - It can get a little cramped at busy times

The Tailend Restaurant and Fish Bar 14–15 Albert Place, Leith, EH7 5HN See Takeaway & Home Delivery

Whighams Wine Cellars

13 Hope Street, Charlotte Square, West End, EH2 4EL See Bars & Pubs

✱ HITLIST FISH ✱ Café Fish Having moved premises from Leith to Stockbridge, the family-run restaurant has cemented its status as an exemplar of quality produce and strong attention to detail. ✱ Ondine Savour remarkable food combinations created from well-sourced ingredients at this stylish venue with great views over the city’s Old Town. ✱ Ship on the Shore Outstanding range of dishes cooked with fresh, locally caught fish in a Leith institution that combines quality with a warm welcome.

Passionate about Seafood 61-65 Rose Street Edinburgh EH2 2NH Reservations 0131 225 5979 157 Hope Street Glasgow G2 2UQ Reservations 0141 572 1405

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list.co.uk

Edinburgh

FRENCH Francophiles are seriously spoiled in Edinburgh these days. The city embraces French cuisine with a range of eateries that mercifully don’t all try to do the same thing. France is a richly diverse country and Edinburgh’s French restaurants reflect this. There are cosy little candlelit bistros, but also more risqué bustling tributes to the Left Bank. Then there is some impressive regional cooking, with authentic dishes and more esoteric wines, and, of course, on to the grand Michelin-starred dames that are up there with the capital’s best. Across all levels a determination to source local and even imaginatively is at the heart of the success, as Edinburgh forges an impressive culinary Auld Alliance. Reviewers: Robin McKelvie, Courtney Peyton

B’est

16 Drummond Street, Old Town, EH8 9TX (Map 2: E4, 88) 0131 556 4448, best-restaurant.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon– 2.45pm, 5–11pm. Pre; HW £12.95; Kids; Wh. £7.90 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

The open, simple, spacious rooms at B’est are a fitting setting for this relaxed bistro that has become a favourite with students and summer festival goers. A cannily priced three course set menu

for under £15 is a very welcome dinner option during tricky financial times, but the range is good and doesn’t feel like corners have been cut. Creamy fish and seafood gratin, bubbling golden in its scallop shell may be followed by moist roast loin of pork with apple sauce or a fragrant, gooey mushroom, blue cheese and spinach crêpe. The à la carte broadens options further. The seared tuna loin niçoise salad might benefit from slightly more interesting leaves but the execution of the tuna is faultless, the outer edge slightly caramelised and encasing pink, tear-worthy flesh. Both lamb shank and medallions of venison are tender, rich in their own juices and perfectly cooked, though let down by accompanying school canteen vegetables. Desserts of tiramisu and warm chocolate cake are good tummy fillers but lack sophistication. Probably B’est for a casual night out with chums rather than critics. + Simple options seem to fare more successfully - Pretty loud on a busy night so be prepared to speak up

La Bagatelle

22a Brougham Place, Tollcross, EH3 9JU (Map 3: C1, 9) 0131 229 0869, labagatelle.co.uk | Sun 12.30–2.30pm; Wed/Thu noon–2pm, 6.30–9pm; Fri/Sat noon–2pm, 6.30–10pm. Closed Mon/Tue. LC; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids. £16 (set lunch) / £23.50 (dinner)

When La Bagatelle first flung open its doors with a distinctly Gallic shrug of its Francophile shoulders 15 years ago it was a welcome addition to a limited selection of French restaurants in Edinburgh. Times have moved on with a plethora of French options, and two

Michelin starred restaurants offering serious French influenced cuisine. The city may have changed, but at La Bagatelle Karen and Cristophe still do things the way their regulars like them, and that’s resolutely old school with time-honoured décor and a menu that stays fairly safe. The home-made terrine is a decent effort to start, though the brie, red pepper and black olive tart is a little on the soggy side. Port, wild mushrooms and smoked bacon bring out the best in braised venison, though a rib eye steak struggles in an indistinct red wine and herb reduction. Desserts are better, Armagnac soaked Agen prunes spicing up a spot-on tarte aux pommes. One welcome aspect that hasn’t kept up with the times is the price of the wines, with a decent selection under £20 a bottle. + Slightly overpriced and fairly safe French cooking only reasonably well executed - Better value pre-theatre menu and as keenly priced wines

Le Bistrot de l’Institut francais d’Ecosse

13 Randolph Crescent, EH3 7TT (Map 4: B1, 7) 0131 225 5366, ifecosse.org.uk | Mon–Sun 10am–4pm. £14 (lunch)

Tasked with promoting French language and culture here in Scotland, it’s no real surprise to discover that the active Institut français d’Ecosse are to re-open their very own café-bistro. Due to open in late spring 2012, Frederic Berkmiller of L’escargot Bleu and L’escargot Blanc is behind the venture, a permanent follow-up to 2011’s successful festival pop-up. Located at the rear of the Institute’s Randolph Crescent home, the informal bistro features vintage pieces of furniture and decor, while the adjoining garden and its lovely terrace are an evening sun trap, perfect for a glass or two of red wine – the bistro is fully

licensed with a selection of beers and French wines. Typical of a French café where you can have something to eat and to drink at any time of the day, expect to find pastries, fromage and charcuterie platters, croque monsieur, fish soup and a plat du jour. Le Bistrot will be open late on event nights at the Institute as well as over the festival period. [Not yet open at time of going to press.]

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Café Marlayne

• 13 Antigua Street, New Town, EH1 3NH (Map 1: G3, 148) 0131 558 8244, cafemarlayne.com | Mon–Sun 8am– 10pm. Pre; HW £13.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £11.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner) • 76 Thistle Street, New Town, EH2 1EN (Map 1: C5, 76) 0131 226 2230, cafemarlayne.com | Mon–Sun noon– 2.30pm, 6–10pm. HW £14.95; Kids. £12 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Longevity is not something always associated with Edinburgh’s French restaurants. That Café Marlayne has stuck around for a decade is testament to its ability to consistently please an eclectic range of diners. Tucked just north of George Street the temptation might have been just to dish out lowest common denominator fodder to please passing punters. Instead, Francophile Scot Islay Fraser conjures up an array of French bistro classics, with a few twists from her homeland to liven things up. To start, a richly satisfying boudin noir sits happily alongside Arbroath smokie pâté, moules marinières alongside vodka cured salmon. Duck confit or plaice with brown shrimp and a beurre noir signal an even greater emphasis on the continent amongst the mains, with even the Scottish ribeye steak laced with Roquefort. Desserts reflect the Auld Alliance’s love of cream alongside sticky toffee pudding or prune and Calvados

The Mulroy (page 67): a hidden venue of charm and elegant French dining 64 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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In association with

Edinburgh tart. A solid French Sauvignon Blanc at under £15 demonstrates just how good value Café Marlayne is and shows why the tightly packed tables of this cosy wee restaurant are usually brimming with jolly diners. + Honest, well cooked French bistro cooking in buzzy surrounds - Tightly packed tables might just be a bit too cosy for some

Café St Honoré

34 North West Thistle Street Lane, New Town, EH2 1EA See Scottish

Castle Terrace

33/35 Castle Terrace, West End, EH1 2EL See Scottish

L’escargot Blanc

17 Queensferry Street, West End, EH2 4QW (Map 4: C1, 8) 0131 226 1890, lescargotblanc.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon– 2.30pm, 5.30–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–3pm, 5.30–10pm. Closed Sun. Pre; BYOB (£5.60; Mon–Thu only); HW £15.60; Kids. £10.90 (set lunch) / £22.50 (dinner)

Tucked high above Queensferry Street is a cosy retreat that manages to celebrate the Auld Alliance without being either too Scottish or too French. Yes, full size French advertising posters and French pop do lend L’escargot Blanc a distinctly Gallic ambience, but only two thirds of the food and drinks are imported. They do, of course, offer excellent French wine, including a more than passable house red and white, but among the starters it is Scottish mussels that are steamed in the surprisingly delicate Bleu d’Auvergne sauce and Scottish

black pudding that perks up the plump coquilles Saint-Jacques. On the main menu a prime Orkney rib-eye, cooked perfectly rare, is given the red wine and shallot treatment. Another serious meaty treat is the côte de boeuf, over 1kg of Scottish rib-eye on the bone. The vegetable gratin may sound an unimaginative vegetarian option, but it works well smeared with one of France’s great cheeses, Comté, a welcome arrival from across the Channel. A classic crème brûlée sits alongside sticky toffee pudding in a comforting last flourish of this cross-cultural eatery. + The Auld Alliance at its delicious best - The vegetable gratin may be good, but there is otherwise little choice for vegetarians

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L’escargot Bleu

56 Broughton Street, New Town, EH1 3SA (Map 1: F3, 123) 0131 557 1600, lescargotbleu.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon– 2.30pm, 5.30–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–3pm, 5.30–10.30pm. Closed Sun in winter. Pre; BYOB (£7; Mon–Thu only); HW £15.90; Kids. £12.90 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

The justly popular L’escargot Bleu generates an air of welcome as you enter the bright, airy rooms one flight up on Broughton Street. The buzz feels embracing rather than exclusive, as much coming from the patrons as the proprietors. Co-owners Betty Jourjon and Frederic Berkmiller have worked consistently since 2009 to produce interesting and creative Gallic fare with high quality Scottish ingredients, and their hard work pays dividends with each course. Tenderly baked organic duck eggs ‘meurette’ peek out of their mellow rich red wine and mushroom

sauce, while those who quest far and wide will be joyful in their discovery of the tableside prepared Dexter Beef steak tartar, so seldom seen these days. Rabbit casseroled with sweet prunes and heady Armagnac encourages an over eager mopping of the bowl, and the pink gleam of the lamb steaks, charred slightly on their edges, are even sweeter set off by their earthy Jerusalem artichoke puree. An exciting and varied wine list encourages a lengthy evening, crowned by the creamiest of crème brûlée that Betty rightly declares is the ‘real thing’. + A genuinely exciting menu that makes selecting difficult - Vegetarians have few options

The French Fancies

42 London Street, New Town, EH3 6LX See Cafés

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La Garrigue

31 Jeffrey Street, Old Town, EH1 1DH (Map 2: E2, 101) 0131 557 3032, lagarrigue.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon– 2.30pm, 6.30–9.30pm. HW £14.50; Kids. £12.50 (set lunch) / £25 (set dinner)

There are no cheesy photos of the Place du Tertre here. Paris does not even get a look in as old assured hand Jean Michel Gauffre instead delves south to the sun drenched Languedoc for serious regional cooking with an intoxicating Mediterranean swagger. The dishes are as vibrant as the striking modern art – if anything catches your eye you can buy your own slice of the south to take home. Roquefort soufflé is a rich, satisfying first flourish, the veined tanginess offset by a walnut and pear salad. The mains are even more impressive with a full-

✱ HITLIST FRENCH ✱ Café Marlayne The buzzy little bolthole everyone wants at the end of their street, with all the classics handled well at decent prices. ✱ La Garrigue The Languedoc comes to Edinburgh with vivid, rich regional colours shining through superb and consistent cooking. ✱ Restaurant Martin Wishart Culinary innovation and experimentation built on a solid base of classical French technique and exacting local sourcing. ✱ 21212 Much more than a meal, this is food made art with a creator at the top of his game. Dining mosaics with unexpected and witty ingredient combinations. ✱ L’escargot Bleu Classics with a twist, creative specials and sourcing-driven menus draws friendly crowds to this lively venue.

Restaurant 56 Broughton Broughton Street Street Edinburgh EH1 3SA Tel 0131 557 1600 www.lescargotbleu.co.uk 56

French twist using the best of Scotland voted Best Best Newcomer Newcomer of of the the Year Year 2009/10 2009/10 in the List magazine voted

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list.co.uk

Edinburgh's Newest French Restaurant in the West End

blooded, meat-stuffed cassoulet that would not be out of place in Carcassonne and a simple but spectacular cheek of beef slow cooked with red wine and tomatoes. Not content with finishing with a standard crĂ¨me brĂťlĂŠe, the languorous Languedoc returns with a touch of lavender, while the chocolate fondant is worth waiting a lot more than 15 minutes for. These days La Garrigue also has a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;wee brotherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; operation down on Commercial Quay in Leith; set in the former Danielâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, it has much more of the classic French bistro about it, serving up coq au vin, tartiflette, confit duck leg and simple omelettes, pasta bowls or fish cakes. + With regional cooking this good who needs Paris? - Not much going on down south for vegetarians at this Garrigue

La Garrigue Bistro

88 Commercial Street, Leith, EH6 6LX (Map 5: C3, 4) 0131 553 5933, lagarrigue. co.uk | Tueâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Fri noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;2.30pm, 5.30â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 9.30pm; Sat/Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;9.30pm. Closed Mon. Pre. ÂŁ8.50 (set lunch) / ÂŁ18 (dinner) See entry above.

Henri of Edinburgh

48 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge, Stockbridge, EH4 1HL See CafĂŠs

11a-13a William Street, EH3 7NG Reservations: 0131 2256061 www.facebook.com/themulroy www.themulroy.co.uk

The Honours

58a North Castle Street, New Town, EH2 3LU See Bistros & Brasseries

Hotel du Vin

11 Bristo Place, Old Town, EH1 1EZ See Bistros & Brasseries

The Kitchin

78 Commercial Quay, Leith, EH6 6LX See Scottish

Maison Bleue

36â&#x20AC;&#x201C;38 Victoria Street, Old Town, EH1 2JW (Map 2: B3, 40) 0131 226 1900, maisonbleuerestaurant.com | Sunâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Thu noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;10pm; Fri/Sat noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;11pm. [Bar open: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;midnight.] Pre; HW ÂŁ17.95. ÂŁ11.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ24 (dinner)

Maison Bleue is defiantly not a typical French restaurant. Or certainly not one from the mainland, as the influence here comes from further south than Marseilles. The culinary net soars across Franceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s once mighty empire, from spicy North African merguez sausages through to a deliciously light Polynesian tuna tartare. The daringly seductive surroundings are conducive to adventure, more glamorously distressed boutique hotel than Parisian bistro. Diners are encouraged to share bouchĂŠes (literally â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;mouthfulsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;) to start, with frogsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; legs tempura and snails laced with foie gras daring treats. The couscous royal is a monster of a main, with the more modest lamb tagine a more measured way to savour the subtle spices and slow cooking of Algeria. Spices are not added just to hide poor ingredients with steaks 28 day aged, lamb from the Borders and scallops from Scotlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s West Coast. To finish a decent crĂ¨me brĂťlĂŠe sits alongside the surprisingly British sticky toffee pudding or cheese platter from Iain Mellis next door. Neither, though, seems out of place at a candle-lit old town oasis that refuses to be pigeonholed. + Daringly different French dining in decadent surroundings - The occasional big group can detract

from the ambience

Le MarchĂŠ FranĂ§ais

9a West Maitland Street, West End, EH12 5DS (Map 4: B3, 25) 0131 221 1894, le-marche-francais.co.uk | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Thu 7amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;7pm; Friâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat 7amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;9.30pm. Closed Sun. HW ÂŁ10.50; T/A; D. ÂŁ6.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ14 (dinner)

From the outside Le MarchĂŠ FranĂ§ais looks like just another of the flurry of delis that have sprung up around Edinburgh lately. But delve beyond the cold cuts and cheese counter, past the wines and assorted French goodies and you arrive in a modest dining room adorned with stylised images of Paris, including a giant monochrome Eiffel Tower. This is the setting for some surprisingly good French cooking. This industrious gem kicks off the day offering a croque monsieur or croissant for breakfast, before moving on to more ambitious lunches and dinners. Here stars include burgundy snails deliciously cooked in garlic butter or a generous platter of charcuterie. All the classics are there amongst the mains, with a cosily warming boeuf bourguignon and an even more decadent tartiflette. The plat du jour is excellent value, only ÂŁ6.95 with a bowl of soup and tea or coffee included for lunch. Fine dining this isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t, but Le MarchĂŠ FranĂ§ais offers honest French cooking in the West End, whether you want to kick off or end the day with a taste of the continent. + Francophiles will love an all day slice of France that wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t trouble your bank manager - The busy deli atmosphere is not conducive to a lingering lunch or cosy dinner date

Restaurant 17 Queensferry Street Edinburgh EH2 4QW Tel 0131 226 1890 www.lescargotblanc.co.uk

visit our shop and epicerie

56a Broughton Street Edinburgh EH1 3SA Tel 0131 556 1680 www.lepicerie.co.uk

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FRENCH

In association with

Edinburgh The Mulroy

11a–13a William Street, West End, EH3 7NG (Map 4: B2, 14) 0131 225 6061, themulroy.co.uk | Tue–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5.30pm–10pm. Closed Sun/Mon. Pre; HW £18. £13.50 (set lunch) / £34.50 (set dinner)

The Battle of Mulroy between the MacDonalds and the Mackintoshes took place in 1688. The Edinburgh restaurant which takes its name from this Highlands’ clan feud is a much more peaceful affair, thanks in large part to the charmingly impeccable manners of Patron Clemens Hoss-d’Estenfeld MacDonald and the calm, traditional interior which creates a country house ambience in the city centre. Chef Damien Rolain’s finds expression for his classic French-style fine dining, with Port Seton providing baby langoustine for a salad with green apple, while the west’s Loch Creran supplies the oyster tartare to go with it. Truffle oil appears in an amuse-bouche of creamed leek and potato soup, then again with smoked and roasted pigeon breast. A finishing touch of hazelnuts is but one example of Rolain’s attention to detail and stunning presentation. For mains, fish is prominent while neck fillet of Borders lamb is served rare alongside a giant meatball of braised shoulder minced with cabbage. Fruit inspires the desserts, with sharp gooseberry sorbet and dark chocolate pavé creating a new classic pairing. + Personally chosen wines and all available by the glass - Tricky stairs down to basement level

Patisserie Madeleine

27b Raeburn Place, Stockbridge, EH4 1HU See Cafés

Petit Paris

38–40 Grassmarket, Old Town, EH1 2JU (Map 2: B4, 45) 0131 226 2442, petitparisrestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–3pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sat/Sun noon–11pm. [Oct–Feb: Mon–Sun noon–3pm, 5.30– 10.30.] LC; Pre; BYOB (£3.50; Mon–Thu only); HW £15.50. £11.90 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Cheek by jowl in the middle of the trafficeased Grassmarket, Petit Paris uses all available spaces to fit check-clothed tables into its lively, friendly venue. More enthusiastically French than many of its competitors, a genuine welcome greets each patron on entry. A simple board presents the set menu choices for the day, but there is plenty to tempt the palate à la carte. Classic escargots grillées, bubbling in ample pools of garlicky, parsley’d Pernod butter present beautifully and with a sense of occasion, which is a bit lacking in the filo encased goat’s cheese with olive tapenade, tasty though it is. The bouillabaisse generously fills its earthern dish, large chunks of firm, flavoursome coley, salmon and mussels swimming happily in their delicately rich fish soup. Individual iron pots of lamb stew, enclose ample chunks of tender, slow cooked meat and bright, firm carrots, a-swish in their glistening, silky brown sauce. Cheese, all French, is interesting and intense, while desserts such as crêpes with Grand Marnier are traditional and fun. The wine list is resolvedly French, cannily priced and well selected. + Genuine French bistro experience in Edinburgh’s Grassmarket - Facing the Grassmarket on busy days and evening

La P’tite Folie

• Tudor House, 9 Randolph Place, West End, EH3 7TE (Map 4: C1, 2) 0131 225 8678, laptitefolie.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–3pm, 6–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–3pm,

L’escargot Bleu (page 65): aiming to keep it real at a French bistro that’s truly engaged with the local food scene 6–11pm. Closed Sun. [Bar open: Mon– Thu noon–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–1am. Closed Sun.] • 61 Frederick Street, New Town, EH2 1LH (Map 1: C5, 79) 0131 225 7983, laptitefolie.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–3pm, 6–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–3pm, 6–11pm. Closed Sun. HW £14.50; Kids; Wh. £9.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

For 15 years La P’tite Folie has been part of Edinburgh’s dining scene, initially in the bustle of Frederick Street and joined, six years later, by the venue that has come to overshadow the original, set behind a quirky Tutor façade looking out on the cobbles of Randolph Place at the West End. As you enter the upstairs dining room in Randolph what hits you immediately after the welcoming ‘bonjour’ from your host, is the light, bright, openness of the space. Courses are not overly formal or fussy, but give a genuine feeling of bistro. Salad, pre entrée arrives in a communal bowl. Steak frites hits a satisfying mark, but the changing £9.95 lunch menu is good value, including a well-presented fish of the day, such as coley on a bed of spinach in a butter-enriched sauce. Dinner tends towards the heartier and richer, be it bouillabaisse or roast breast of duck with figs. The wine selection covers a sound range of styles and prices – and there’s always the wine bar Le Di-Vin downstairs if you fancy sampling more. + Randolph Place has one of the nicer dining rooms in Edinburgh - Acoustics a bit of a challenge on busy nights

the sourcing. A focus on keen prices here (a three course dinner can be a sprightly fifteen quid) means that sourcing is necessarily cost sensitive. Sometimes this is done cleverly, making the most out of cheaper cuts: featherblade, for example, is the focus of a hearty and delicious main; but often mediocre ingredients marr simple dishes, the case in a disappointingly unkempt cheese board. This unreliability seems to run to the kitchen too; mussels are succulent, but arrive cold, while a terrine de campagne is nicely seasoned but pulpy and overworked. + A French bistro with the prospect of a winning formula - Too many let-downs means it doesn’t add up

The Pompadour

Caledonian Hilton, Princes Street, West End, EH1 2AB See Scottish

Restaurant at the Bonham

35 Drumsheugh Gardens, West End, EH3 7RN See Scottish

Restaurant Martin Wishart

✱

54 The Shore, Leith, EH6 6RA (Map 5: C4, 30) 0131 553 3557, martin-wishart. co.uk | Tue–Fri noon–2pm, 6.45–9.30pm;

Sat noon–1.30pm, 6.30–9.30pm. Closed Sun/Mon. HW £25; Wh. £28.50 (set lunch) / £65 (set dinner)

With a Cook School, a second Michelin star restaurant at Cameron House and a recently opened Edinburgh brasserie Martin Wishart could be forgiven for taking his eye off the ball at his signature Leith restaurant. Far from it. If anything Wishart is pushing for two Michelin stars rather than struggling to hold the one first awarded in 2001. An early 2012 makeover has brightened up the dining space and injected it with more of a buzz that has elevated conversations a notch above hushed. At the heart of his success is superb sourcing and inspired cooking, whether it be a ceviche of Gigha halibut, Loch Ryan oysters laced with caviar or the stellar marriage of ox tongue and stone crab. Classic as well as more innovative sauces come elegantly poured at the table, but Wishart does not need extravagant foams and stripped down food science to reveal his myriad flavours. The tasting menu is the highlight, a six-course extravaganza, seven if you opt for a cheeseboard that bravely eschews Isle of Mull Cheddar for an outstanding English alternative. From a stunning amuse-bouche trio to that world class cheeseboard Martin Wishart’s does not put a foot wrong. + Arguably the finest tasting menu in

Pierre Victoire

18 Eyre Place, New Town, EH3 5EP (Map 1: D2, 9) 0131 556 0006, pierrevictoirerestaurant.co.uk | Mon– Sun noon–10pm. HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £7.90 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Pierre Victoire has been popping up in various guises around Edinburgh for almost twenty five years. It’s set to a reliable, if somewhat predictable formula: lively front of house, a menu dripping with French cliche, and service that’s as down-to-earth as a pomme de terre. It’s the sort of place that can either be truly memorable or wholly forgettable, depending on the care taken in the kitchen and the fastidiousness of

11 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH, EH10 4HN

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list.co.uk

Edinburgh

INDIAN Edinburgh’s curry scene is perhaps unfairly labeled as ‘Indian’ given that its influences come from across the subcontinent, with respresentatives of Pakistani, Bangladeshi, Nepalese, Tamil and Tibetan cuisine to be found in different guises. More than ever this section can offer a diverse set of experiences, from intricate fine-dining to informal street food, some places offering all the colour of modern India and others extoling the craft and identity of traditional regional home-cooking. Reviewers: Ian Hogg, Archie McDiarmid, Natalya Wells

Ann Purna

45 St Patrick’s Square, Southside, EH8 9ET (Map 3: G1, 42) 0131 662 1807, annpurna-edinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sun 11am–2pm, 5–11pm. Veg; BYOB (no charge); HW £9.95; Kids; T/A; D. £6.50 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

B’est (page 64): more than a sprinkling of good value

Edinburgh from a chef at the top of his game - Hard to fault, though the army of waiters and sommeliers can be a little daunting for Michelin restaurant first timers.

Le Sept

5 Hunter Square, Old Town, EH1 1QW (Map 2: D3, 19) 0131 225 5428, lesept. co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–2pm, 6–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–10.30pm; Sun 12.30–10pm. [Hours reduced in winter.] Pre/Post; HW £15.50; Kids. £11 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Le Sept has been around on the Edinburgh dining scene in one form or another since 1982 and they have honed their formula down to a fine art. You won’t find thrilling culinary experimentation or fancy foams here, just honest competently cooked French cuisine. The black and white stylised images on the walls set the scene upstairs in the main dining space – if you have a choice book a table here as it is much lighter and more appealing than downstairs. Scottish produce shares centre stage with Shetland salmon alongside the more conventional onion soup to start, and again on with a haunch

La p’tite folie 61 Frederick Street Edinburgh Tel: 0131 225 7983

of Perthshire wild venison competing with the beef daube and a superb coq au vin. A real treat is their surf and turf, a choice of steak cuts topped with king prawns, queen scallops and mussels. Desserts can be a bit of a letdown, a promising chocolate tarte with vanilla ice cream arriving quite dry with cream rather than ice cream. Lunches are decent value, though, especially considering Le Sept lies just off the tourist honey pot of the Royal Mile. + Decent value French cooking just off the Royal Mile - Desserts are not always up to standards of the starters and mains

✱

21212

3 Royal Terrace, New Town, EH7 5AB (Map 1: H4, off) 0845 22 21212 or 0131 523 1030, 21212restaurant.co.uk | Tue– Sat noon–1.45pm, 6.45–9.30pm. Closed Sun/Mon. HW £23; Kids (under 5). £26 (set lunch) / £68 (5-course set dinner)

A meal at 21212 is a memorable event, as much theatre as gourmet dining. Depart the Georgian reserve of Royal Terrace and enter rooms of sleek lines and sweeping furniture lit by a modern take on chandeliers that emphasise

“Le Di-Vin” Wine Bar St. Ann’s Oratory 9 Randolph Place Edinburgh Tel: 0131 538 1815

brain-teasing art. The well-lit kitchen, neatly framed behind a sparkling glass screen, sets the stage for the highperformance kitchen team, producing the five-set-course adventure (three to five courses at lunch). Courses alternately offer two options or one; eager couples sample the range by sharing. Delicately constructed dishes, designed weekly by artist-inresidence (aka chef) Paul Kitching, defy expectations with wit and humour. An elaborate risotto hides under a morning mist of foam, where a chestnut counters chestnut mushrooms awaiting discovery. Perfect slices of gently cooked lamb are dressed in a light curry, made earthier by the artichoke then brightened with saffron onions. The eating experience is stage-managed in ever subtle ways, with even unusual and artistic cutlery reinforcing a leisurely pace to observe, consume, enjoy. Offering four elegant hotel bedrooms, 21212 provides a gracious anchor for gastro tourists collecting Michelin star meals from Edinburgh’s very impressive collection. + Courses that stretch the imagination of what a meal can offer - Not for those who just want high quality but low key

Tucked away in the corner of St. Patrick’s Square, Ann Purna offers a wide range of vegetarian cuisine inspired by the state of Gujarat on India’s west coast. Popular mixed veg bhajias and pakora starters mix with Indian street snacks such as kachori – lightly filled, spiced south Indian pastry pillows – and sev poori – brittle baskets of onion and potato with chilli drizzle and noodle bed. Wellrounded Ann Purna baingan brings fleshy aubergine together with creamy almonds, supported by daal (lentil) or aloo (potato) stuffed paratha breads. Sautéed sindhri batata potato crisps with crushed spice garnish add much needed contrast to a spicy sweet and sour jalfreizie sabzie sauce that somewhat overpowers its crispy vegetables. Knowledgeable service describes house specials and other menu options in a well-lit room of warm tones, dark wood furniture and Bollywood’s greatest hits on the stereo. Keep an eye out for a proposed re-branding in 2012 that heralds a shift in emphasis with new meaty offerings supplementing the extensive à la carte menu and buffet lunch deal. + Agreeable interior and well informed service - Disappointing street snack starters

Assam’s Café

1 Albert Street, Leith, EH7 5HN (Map 1: H2, off) 0131 555 4000, assamscafe. co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–10.30pm; Fri/Sat

La p’tite folie 2 Tudor House 9 Randolph Place Edinburgh Tel: 0131 225 8678

Virginie, the owner regularly visits Ethiopia and supports 800 orphans with a feeding program.

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INDIAN

In association with

Edinburgh noon–11pm; Sun 2pm–10.30pm. Veg; BYOB (£1.50); Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Opened in March 2012, Assam’s brings to Edinburgh a combination of Indian café and deli that has become a feature in Glasgow. On street level, under a glittering chandelier and surrounded by gold-flecked tiles, a smattering of informal tables sit alongside an open kitchen and chilled deli counter with ready-to-go pakora, curries and desserts and a takeaway menu featuring Indian pizzas. Spicy nibbles and roti wraps populate the café menu, while the menu in the downstairs restaurant brings together chicken and vegetarian starters and mains with a decent sprinkling of fish dishes along with an appealing array of tapas-sized dishes. Paratha flat breads and mushroom rice accompany buttery chicken, chilli prawn poori and a well-rounded lamb and mint curry. Gobi gosht (lamb and cauliflower) and fish curry featuring ginger and lemon are fairly polite in terms of spice but attractively flavoured, though aubergine and potato fritters could really do with a bit more punch and batter crunch. The windowless stone clad basement cleverly draws warmth from colourful wall tapestries, voile fabric dividers and a busily illuminated ceiling. While aspects of the operation may still be settling in, comparisons with its well-established sister restaurant in Glasgow indicated that there is plenty of promise. + Comfortable basement dining with decent café/tapas offerings - Inconsistencies as restaurant finds its feet

Bollywood: The Coffee Box

99a Bruntsfield Place, Southside, EH10 4HG (Map 3: B3, 27) 07910 453121 | Mon– Sun 10am–7pm. Veg; T/A. £6 (lunch)

Cross the Meadows these days and you’ll find that culinary adventures start the same way Dr Who episodes tend to – with a blue police box. Inspired by the street food culture she grew up with in India, Nutan Bala left her job as a support worker and opened the hatches on Edinburgh’s first curry and coffee stand. Except for a mixed vegetable dhal which has proven so popular that it has become a fixture, the short simple menu varies each day. Chicken curry with pilau rice is seasoned to order and so the heat is tailored to your taste, though with the chicken served on the bone, it is a slightly awkward dish to eat on the hoof. Spice-studded parathas, or fried flat breads, are ideal for dipping in the hearty lentil and vegetable dhal. Chatting to the star of this one-woman show as she prepares your dish is one of the highlights of the experience. It might ensure you don’t miss the pakoras, for example, which showcase seasonal Scottish veg: spicy slightly sweet savoy cabbage pakora proving a seriously tasty winter treat. With plans to set up some seating on the pavement alongside when the weather improves you feel that this Bollywood dream may well have a happy ending. + Chatting to the star of this one woman show as she prepares your dish - The coffee not up to the standard of the curry

Britannia Spice

150 Commercial Street, Ocean Drive, Leith, EH6 6LB (Map 5: A2, 2) 0131 555 2255, britanniaspice.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–2.15pm, 5–11pm; Sun 5–11pm. Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £9.95 (set lunch) / £23.50 (dinner)

Situated just a few hundred yards from the Royal Yacht Britannia, the interior designer of Britannia Spice perhaps

went a little ‘overboard’ on the nautical theme which runs from the rather kitsch (the giant ship’s wheel) to the rather stylish (small sails create intimate tables for two around the walls). The menu has no such focus, covering most of the sub-continent, from Nepal to Southern India with a smattering of Thai for good measure. Such breadth suggests either an insecure or supremely confident kitchen and fortunately the food proves that it is the latter. Minced fish, onion, mushroom, chilli and coriander are odd bedfellows, but they are superbly combined in macher bhorta. Burgh chandi tikka, meanwhile, is a pleasingly nuanced chicken starter. The menu is proud to display its regional heritage and both Bangladesh and Nepal get star billing. Bangladeshi dish shatkora gosht, citrus and kaffir lime lamb, is simultaneously spicy and refreshing. Himalayan momo are steamed Nepalese dumplings, crammed full of meat & served in mild, rich sauce. That so many diverse elements are brought together successfully is perhaps the biggest triumph. + Regionally focused menu - Over the top nautical theme

Cardamom

178a Easter Road, Leith, EH7 5QQ See Takeaway & Home Delivery

Classic’s

10 Windsor Street, New Town, EH7 5JR (Map 1: H3, 150) 0131 629 9987, kerclassics.co.uk | Mon–Sat 5.30–10pm; Sun 5.30–9.30pm. Veg; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; T/A. £16 (dinner)

Situated beneath the Cairn Hotel, Classic’s basement restaurant is a story of two halves, one part lying fallow beyond the breakfast service while the understated, stone-clad main dining area is dominated by a large wooden bar that hints at the room’s former life. Now serving evenings only, the menu drifts from north India to south supplemented by extensive European offerings. Chilli paneer (toasted cottage cheese) arrives in a sticky sweet and sour sauce alongside tandoor-baked besani chicken wrapped in a spiced gram flour blanket. Kerala roast chicken massala features a well-rounded, coconut-rich gravy, although the chicken is a touch dry. Accompanied by a lentil and vegetable sambar, the southern staple massala dosa is a large sleeping bag of spiced potato and onion let down by the pancake’s charred edges and greasy appearance. Fixed three-course Indian and Scottish set menus for early diners make way for a similarly priced two course offering later in the evening. The restaurant is also happy to link together both basement rooms for those seeking larger groups or functions. + Service aims to please - Inconsistency of dishes served

Gandhi’s

50 East Fountainbridge, West End, EH3 9BH (Map 4: D4, 56) 0131 228 6666, gandhisrestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–2pm, 5–11pm. Kids; T/A; D. £From £6.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Gandhi’s narrow frontage just off Lothian Road frames a compact restaurant of muted tones offering distinctively flavoured and well balanced Indian and Bangladeshi fare. There’s no alcohol licensing so sparkling mango juice and creamy thick sweet or salty lassis populate the drinks list. Owner Shahin Khan’s team offer understated yet effective service across an extensive menu of tandoori, biryani, Indian classics and specials. Honey glazed sultana naan offers sweet balance to savoury main sag paneer, its vibrant spinach

rich sauce revealing creamy cubes of cottage cheese, while marinated chicken podina mosallam gravy is lifted by subtle infusions of fresh mint. All can be preceded by a good mix of pakora, puri and kebab, the gentle kick from cream cheese filled jalapenos in bread crumb coating or the tangy zing of hot and sour murgi chatt. Five bowl thali trays offer lunchtime value, making way for evening two and three course set deals. While the setting can at times appear a little flat, there is sufficient care and attention evident in the kitchen to warrant a visit. + Extensive menu choice and clean tasting dishes - Bought in desserts a little disappointing

Guchhi Indian Seafood and Bar

9/10 Commercial Street, Leith, EH6 6JA (Map 5: C3, 18) 0131 555 5604, guchhi. com | Mon–Sun noon–11pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–1am.] Veg; HW £14.25; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £8.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Head chef and owner Vishant Das blends together his Indian influences and seafood restaurant experience in this restaurant-bar in the heart of Leith. Extensive à la carte and tapas offerings capture vegetarian specials, biryani, tandoori kebab and Indian classics, but it’s the chef’s seafood dishes that shine through. Tasting plates of tongue-tingling chilli butter scallops arrive alongside lightly spiced, fleshy fingers of haddock primed for dipping and Goan mussels in creamy coconut rich massala gravy. A jump across to mains brings generous bream fillets coated in chilli and methi and sautéed in garlicky butter alongside tandoor clay oven baked lobster marinated in tikka sauce and yoghurt. Dishes are simply executed and clean tasting in tune with the cool tones of an interior that offers a suitable backdrop for the occasional bhangra-inspired Bollywood evening. Fixed lunch deals and a further late night menu will keep snacking bar dwellers sustained until the bar closes in the wee small hours. Ultimately, though, it’s the exuberant hosting that sticks in the memory. + Enthusiastic host and support staff - Delicate lobster a little dry

Gurkha Café

25–27 Cockburn Street, Old Town, EH1 1BP See Round the World

Ignite

272–274 Morrison Street, West End, EH3 8DT (Map 4: B3, 26) 0131 228 5666, igniterestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon– 2pm, 5.30–11pm. Veg; HW £14.25; Kids; T/A; D. £8.50 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

The name of this Haymarket restaurant implies something different than its simple, smartly decorated interior. Perhaps it refers to the food from a menu offering the north Indian and Bengali dishes now so familiar to us in the UK. Here they’re certainly not run-of-themill, with fresh local ingredients and a contemporary twist. Starters include a row of baby aubergine pakora, the batter without any greasiness and yielding silky, smoky fruit. Sheek kebabs of tender minced lamb are served with fresh mint and yoghurt sauce. Of the curries, Punjab methi gust is fragrant and not too heavy, with pieces of lamb in a sauce of herbs such as fresh fenugreek and coriander. A highlight on the tandoori menu is trout, marinated in yoghurt and spices and served whole after being barbecued. The menu of main courses advertises a recommended side dish for each, although it would be a shame to pass up the bhindi bhajee, spiced pieces of okra

✱ HITLIST INDIAN ✱ Mezbaan This unassuming neighbourhood restaurant packs a punch as one of Edinburgh’s only specifically South-Indian restaurants ✱ Mithas Fine-dining from the Khushi’s empire raises the bar in Edinburgh’s Indian dining scene with intricate modern dishes, without losing the exquisite flavours. ✱ Mother India Continuing to do everything right with the buzzy,colourful atmosphere and clever tapas-style formula. ✱ Rivage This stylish neighbourhood restaurant continues to bring innovative and contemporary Indian cuisine to its Easter Road locale. ✱ Tanjore Relative newcomer offering a wealth of flavourful south Indian fare in a friendly and informal café setting. ✱ The Spice Pavilion Inventive, elegant cooking, a cosy atmosphere and warm welcome. The kind of place that brings you back again and again. ✱ Voujon A wide selection of rich, complex dishes made with top quality ingredients, all served in stylish, sophisticated surroundings. simmered in a rich tomato sauce. This goes well with their lemon rice, studded with cashews. The dessert menu is brief, but includes refreshing lemon and coconut ice creams, served inside their respective fruits. + Unusual tandoori specialities - Slightly subdued atmosphere

Iman’s

4–6 Lochrin Buildings, Gilmore Place, Tollcross, EH3 9NB (Map 3: B1, 12) 0131 221 1115, imans-restaurant.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–2pm, 5–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm; Sun 5–11pm. Veg; BYOB (no charge); Kids; T/A. £6.95– £10.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Sitting across from the King’s Theatre, Iman’s delivers hearty Punjabi fare with a sociable BYOB vibe. The restaurant splits into two rooms of randomly pebble-dashed sandy walls, driftwood ceilings and agreeable lighting set against the background hum from big screen Bollywood movies. A good range of house specials are on offer together with karahi, biryani, tandoori and familiar classics across an extensive menu with good value three-course lunchtime deals. Pakora, bhajee and kebab starters sit alongside succulent king prawn poori with punchy crimson chilli sauce and marinated massala-crusted lamb chops with cooling minty yoghurt dip.

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INDIAN

Traditional Indian Food

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TABLE Talk : AC MUIR ON BURRITOS Illegal Jackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s began when I was an international distance runner representing Scotland and Great Britain and training in the US. We used to run 20 miles every Sunday and pick up a burrito with a couple of miles still to run home. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the ultimate athleteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s food: packed full of carbs and protein, yet on my return to Scotland there was nowhere that sold them. In 2008 I was sufficiently bothered to start work on a burrito joint, and a year-anda-half later Jackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s opened. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been tough with the economic conditions but rest assured: elite sportsmen and women can now get a top burrito from a restaurant awarded the Observer Cheap Eats Award for Scotland 2011 (Runner Up UK). Since Jackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s opened, Lothian Road has seen big changes with many small businesses closing down and the arrival of two major multinational chain restaurants. So if one thing sums up my approach to life right now itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s that we have to â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;do betterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; than the chains in order to survive. That means better food, better staff, better music and overall a better time coming here. Our customers shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t worry about Mexican food being unhealthy and packed with chetese and sauces â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all our Tex-Mex is made on the premises fresh daily with no preservatives, transfats or MSG â&#x20AC;&#x201C; thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s right, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s healthy! Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m currently getting back into running and should be doing it five or six days a week again by the summer â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait. A burrito is still my go-to food of choice after exercising and the guys from Edinburgh Athletics Club are regulars at Jackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s after training. And weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been lucky at Jackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s with the number of international and Olympic sportsmen and women whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve dropped by for a bite â&#x20AC;&#x201C; we should really put up a wall of fame. â&#x2013; AC Muir is the owner of Illegal Jackâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (see page 79).

Almond and coconut peshwari naan accompany Popeye portions of earthy, spinach-rich desi saag â&#x20AC;&#x201C; cooked to mumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own recipe, or comforting lamb mince keema mutter and piquant channa, mung and lentil tarka dhal. Owner Taz and his knowledgeable team comfortably attend to large groups and parties with their adjoining private room providing secluded overspill, while those still peckish can pop next door to the coowned Afterz Ice Cream Parlour for a DIY sundae or a scoop of Iron Brew sorbet. + Mumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recipe spinach based specials - Bollywood soundtrack a little distracting

Indian Lounge

129a Rose Street, New Town, EH2 3DT (Map 1: C6, 66) 0131 226 2862, indianloungeedinburgh.co.uk | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Thu 1pmâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;midnight; Fri/Sat noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;2.30pm, 5pmâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;midnight; Sun 3pmâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;midnight. Veg; Pre; BYOB (no charge); HW ÂŁ11.95; Kids; T/A. ÂŁ7 (set lunch) / ÂŁ15 (dinner)

The family-run Indian Lounge is central enough for most of the city to grab a curry on their way home, and thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lot to recommend that you do. Prices are considerably more reasonable than you might expect from the central â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or any â&#x20AC;&#x201C; location, staff are friendly, and will happily suggest dishes based on your preferences or tolerance to chilli. Conversely, over half of the menu is given to â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;specialsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, which includes the likes of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;sahib rooflifterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. The chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s speciality is, in fact, rich, creamy Punjabi cooking: a murgh masala is full of well balanced flavour. A delicate puri starter comes stuffed with juicy little prawns, the meat in the main dishes is similarly succulent and naan breads are good. An April 2012 refurb is scheduled for the small, subterranean restaurant, which still bears vibrant murals appropriate to its previous incarnation as Tippoo Sahib (the name was changed recently to distance themselves from that bloodthirsty period in Anglo-Indian history). + A useful, budget, city-centre stop off - Vegetarian starters are underwhelming

The Indian Cavalry Club

22 Coates Crescent, West End, EH3 7AF (Map 4: B2, 21) 0131 220 0138, indiancavalryclub.co.uk | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;11.30pm. [Bar open: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;10.30pm.] HW ÂŁ15; Kids; T/A; D. ÂŁ8.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ22.50 (dinner)

This West End institution, which celebrates its 25th anniversary in 2012, is where the old Raj meets modern day Edinburgh. Funky screen prints on the wall look down on crisp linen tablecloths and waiters in military-style uniforms serve classic Indian cuisine. It is clearly a recipe for success â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a 600-strong band of loyal â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;membersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, regular customers who sign up for special offers and events, account for a significant number of the diners. Such devotion must certainly help whittle down the novella-sized menu which could be overwhelming for the novice. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Build your ownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;-style starters allow for endless combinations, but both the chickpea and okra puree and chicken dosa lack the expected fiery punch. Chicken methi, however, is a triumph, fenugreek leaves and ginger providing spice and aromatics to spare. Lamb sag gosht is packed so full of fresh spinach you wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be surprised to see Popeye digging in at the next table. Plans to open an outdoor â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;field kitchenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; for lunchtime dining in the summer suggest an innovative approach which will see this club keeping members and visitors happy for years to come. + Wonderful dining atmosphere - Dauntingly large menu

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INDIAN

In association with

Edinburgh Kalpna

2/3 St Patrick’s Square, Southside, EH8 9EZ (Map 3: G1, 44) 0131 667 9890, kalpnarestaurant.com | Mon–Sat noon– 2pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun 5.30–10pm. [Dec–Jun: closed Sun.] Veg; HW £13.50; Kids; T/A. £7 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Despite being an overwhelmingly vegetarian nation, India’s cuisine usually has a carnivorous flavour when it reaches our shores. Ajay Bhartdwaj, owner and head chef of Kalpna spent the last 30 years trying to correct that imbalance. His vegetarian stance is not the only way this quirky restaurant breaks the mould. Well spaced tables, walls covered in plaster decorations and mirrored murals make it a surprisingly intimate space, complemented by understated but attentive service. Starters such as Bateta vada are a deliciously spicy take on fried potatoes the accompanying Indian risotto, however, makes the dish a little starch heavy. A range of ‘seasonal specials’ mix fresh, seasonal Scottish & exotic veg to good effect. Kalpna’s signature dish, dam aloo kashmeri is a delicate, creamy dish packed with a wide range of veggies, paneer and nuts. The flavours mingle well, but might be a little too sweet for some. A more traditional bhindi masala meanwhile makes a star of okra – when fried in mustard seed & onions & enveloped in a spicy tomato sauce, this meaty dish may well make you forget that there isn’t a trace of meat on the menu, just bags of flavour. + Quirky, intimate atmosphere - Menu could do with a few more options

Kama Sutra

105–109 Lothian Road, West End, EH3 9AN (Map 4: D3, 49) 0131 229 7747, kamasutrarestaurants.com | Sun–Thu noon–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–midnight. Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; T/A. £7.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Following in the footsteps of Glasgow and Stirling, November 2011 saw the appearance of Kama Sutra on Lothian Road. With menu and décor consistency across all venues, exposed brickwork, dark wood furniture and imported carved artwork lend warmth to the comfortable, well-lit restaurant. The à la carte menu features a number of fish and seafood dishes complementing regional classics, sizzling tandoori and familiar vegetarian sides. Coconut-rich Goan sauce adds sweet notes to a heavily seasoned monkfish tawa machi while venison zyakedar main doesn’t quite bring enough gamey depth to its massala gravy. Crispy onion rings and cooling dips support marinated duck and grilled scallops on a starter list featuring poori, kebab and haggis pakora. Two-course lunch and buffet options make way for

Tanjore (page 74): family-sized dosas add some theatre to this friendly new South Indian restaurant

a good value pre-theatre offering all supported by a comprehensive wine and cocktail list. While the décor is well intentioned, front of house is efficient and the menu has interest, there is a sense that the overall experience doesn’t quite equate to the sum of its parts. + Well composed interior - Greasy menu cover

Kasturi

35–37 Shandwick Place, West End, EH2 4RG (Map 4: C2, 20) 0131 228 2441, kasturi-ed.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–3pm, 5–11.30pm. HW £11.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £7.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

When Kasturi opened its doors in 2010, the owners talked of their delight at securing a site that they had wanted for years – you wonder if they feel the same today. The closure of Shandwick Place for over a year due to tramworks will undoubtedly hurt passing trade, but you suspect curry lovers will continue to make their way to this polished and welcoming restaurant. A starter of chicken chat puree is a well balanced combination of spicy, aromatic chicken and rich doughy bread. Firm but tender aubergine pakora comes with a wonderful tamarind sauce which complements the fiery batter well. A

neat touch is the pairing of each main dish with a suggested side: while catfish in a Goan fish curry is perhaps a little too delicate for the hot and flavoursome sauce, the bindi bajhi is a excellent partner, providing a firmer texture and aromatic depth. An excellent lamb pallak needs no help: the spinach, onion and coriander providing all the nuance required. + The terrific tamarind sauce makes for near perfect pakora - The slightly dungeon-like low-ceilinged toilets

Kebab Mahal

7 Nicolson Square, Old Town, EH8 9BH (Map 2: D4, 83) 0131 667 5214, kebabmahal.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–midnight; Fri 2pm–2am; Sat noon–2am. T/A. £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

Situated in Nicolson Square since the late 1970s, Kebab Mahal is a no-frills Indian café and takeaway offering hearty fare at affordable prices. The menu favours the hungry meat-eater, with chicken and lamb classics, kebabs and tandoori dishes well represented, though vegetable biryani and familiar sides make their appearance too. With no licence or BYOB, the open soft drinks counter encourages self service, in keeping with the efficient, light-touch service. Curries

are generally uncomplicated and well flavoured with noticeable heat. Sag gosht brings soft chunks of lamb in creamy thick spinach gravy alongside kebabstyle cubes of chicken tikka karahi, a generous helping of vegetable pilau and soft garlicky naan. Chicken pakora prepared on the bone can be teamed with tikka, kebab and bhajee starters as well as the generously filled lamb mince samosa with its fiery chilli dip. While the steady turnover of tables and high bench seating may preclude post meal lingering, there’s also the possibility of convivial table sharing at busier timest. + Simple, wholesome fare in a no-fuss environment - Aloo ghobi side dish flavourful, but oily

Khushi’s

10 Antigua Street, New Town, EH1 3NH (Map 1: G3, 147) 0131 558 1947, khushis.com | Mon–Sat noon–11pm; Sun noon–10pm. Veg; BYOB (no charge); Kids; Wh. £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Sixty-five years since its first appearance and half a dozen venues later, Indian stalwart Khushi’s has popped up on Antigua Street near the top of Leith Walk. Behind its extensive glazed frontage waiters bustle between a separate raised area reserved for larger parties and the

Mosque kitchen Tasty Curry in a hurry

31 Nicolson Square, Edinburgh EH8 9BX 0131 - 667 4035 Open 7 days 12pm-11pm (Closed Friday 1pm-2pm for prayer) info@mosquekitchen.com

Hitlisted in The List Eating & Drinking Guide 10/11 The List Eating & Drinking Guide 71

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list.co.uk

You canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have too much of a good thing.

very ches e .50 n u l e ÂŁ8 rs 2 cou ay at only d) e d d week coffee inclu

The Tanjore - bringing the taste of authentic, home-cooked southern Indian food to Edinburgh

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Join us for a unique cultural experience as our gifted culinary team transports you to the sultry heat of Bangladesh and Northern India with a symbiotic fusion of traditional Asian recipes developed with a modern and original â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;twistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.

stylish main dining room of powder blue walls, sari inspired graphics and ornate coloured lanterns. Currently eatin only, the no-charge BYOB supports a good value lunch deal and a familiar evening menu of chicken and lamb classics, tandoori and seafood curries. Cooling mint chutney complements seasoned cubes of pepper monkfish tikka alongside popular lamb rogan josh served on the bone in fennel-infused gravy. Creamy, tomato-rich fish karahi curry has flavour depth, while heavily battered chilli squid and 24-hour cooked Punjabi favourite dal makhani (black lentils) are disappointingly one dimensional. Pakora, samosa and tikka starters are book-ended by home-made sorbet and ice creams, with a good range of smoothies and sweet or salted lassis. A lively atmosphere and contemporary setting go someway to compensate for dishes that can fail to shine. + Stylish interior and convivial ambience - Bland black lentil side dish

Lancers Brasserie

Come in and try our delicious Dosai!

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Get the full flavour from our website

www.igniterestaurant.co.uk @IgniteEdinburgh Ignite Restaurant Ignite 272-274 Morrison Street, Haymarket, Edinburgh EH3 8DT Tel 0131 228 5666

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Mother Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cafe Glasgow $UJ\OH 6WUHHW *ODVJRZ G3 7RU Reservations 0141 339 9145

5 Hamilton Place, Stockbridge, EH3 5BA (Map 1: A3, 22) 0131 332 3444, lancersbrasserie.co.uk | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2.30pm, 5.30â&#x20AC;&#x201C;11.30pm. HW ÂŁ12.95; Kids; T/A; D. ÂŁ8.50 (set lunch) / ÂŁ18 (dinner)

Lancers Brasserie continues to bring Bengali-inspired North Indian cuisine to its long-established Stockbridge setting. Split across two ground floor rooms and a separate basement area for private dining, the dĂŠcor is crisp and contemporary with high-backed leather chairs, white linen tables and artwork inspired by the Bengal Lancers. The Ă la carte menu brings together a sprinkling of classics with biryani, tandoori and the occasional fish dish supplemented by thali offerings and the extravagant 48-hour-notice kurji lamb. Starters are standard fare: samosa and puri mixing with cubes of murgh tikka chicken, lamb kebabs and crispy vegetable sabzi pakora, all asking for more of a kick from polite sauce accompaniments. Mains and sides are a mixed bag â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the subtly flavoured spinach and butternut squash misti sag and aubergine laden baingan bhuna lack punch, while the splendid chingree massallam combines juicy prawns with peppers, tomatoes and squash in a deeply flavoured sauce. White uniformed waiters offer efficient service and a carefully considered wine list that provides matching suggestions for the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more popular dishes. + Well conceived interiors and wine list - Uninspired starters and subtly flavoured mains donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t quite match the setting

Mezbaan South Indian Restaurant

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14/14a Brougham Street, Tollcross, EH3 9JH (Map 3: C1, 4) 0131 229 5578, mezbaan.co.uk | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;3pm, 5â&#x20AC;&#x201C;11pm. LC; Veg; Pre; HW ÂŁ11.95; Kids; T/A; D. ÂŁ8.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ16 (dinner)

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rare in Edinburgh to find Indian restaurants with regional specificity, so Mezbaan is welcome in introducing flavours from the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s south, especially since it has one of Britainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best South Asian chefs at the helm. Coconut is a prominent ingredient: to start, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find it in the spicy batter for king prawns, and in creamy chutney served alongside the medu veda, which are like lentil doughnuts. South Indian staples dosas (crispy pancakes) and fluffy idlis (steamed rice cakes) are textbook, and both come in small or large portions. Tikka masala, korma and vindaloo do grace the menu but far superior are the chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s specials such as kumarakam konju, a prawn curry served in a deep â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;kadaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

pot with a rich sauce, flavoured with ginger and spices. Vegetarians are by no means short changed, with a range of options including bagarey baingan, silky aubergines with peanut and coconut sauce hailing from Hyderabad. Variations on the usual accompaniments such as yoghurty â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;curd riceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; or their house paratha bread, plus delicious saffron lassi, and even Indian wines are more examples of Mezbaanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s marked originality. + Unusual South Indian dishes - Slightly cold interior decoration

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Mithas

7 Dock Place, Leith, EH6 6LU (Map 5: C3, 9) 0131 554 0008, mithas.co.uk | Tueâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;2.30pm, 5.30â&#x20AC;&#x201C;10pm. Closed Mon. BYOB (no charge); Kids; Wh. ÂŁFrom ÂŁ29.95 (set dinner)

From the people behind the ever-popular Khushiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s comes a more glamorous taste of India that freely announces its ambition to fit right in with the neighbouring Michelin-starred restaurants of The Shore. Carefully arranged low lighting and classy dark wood are offset by splashes of colour in fabrics and candles, and large tables or booths ensure plenty of space and privacy. Various tasting menus showcase whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s available; otherwise the list of options is divided into starters, mains and curries, with sides and daily changing naan bread. A complementary amuse-bouche of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Indian-style tomato soupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; gives an indication of the incredible spice blends to come. These fragrant earthy flavors complement venison in kebabs stuffed with tomato chutney, and come out in full force in the home-style lamb curry. Duck, slow roast in the tandoori oven, is almost caramelized with its ginger and cardamom marinade, matched with a pomegranate raita. There are also a number of interesting seafood dishes, notably the sigri grouper, roasted with a peanut sauce. Desserts are less exciting, although home-made sorbets are not to be overlooked for a refreshing finish. Raising the bar of Indian food in the capital, this fine dining comes at a price; at the same time, Mithas is unlicensed and BYOB is available with no corkage for wine. + The most glamorous Indian restaurant in town has food to match - Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in a different price league to any other Indian in town

The Mosque Kitchen

31â&#x20AC;&#x201C;33 Nicolson Square, Southside, EH8 9BX (Map 2: E5, 77) 0131 667 4035, mosquekitchen.com | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun 11amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; 10pm. Closed Fri 12.50â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1.50pm. Veg; T/A. ÂŁ4.50 (one course)

Having moved from the nearby Central Mosque last year, the Mosque Kitchen is now a more conventional offering, but retains the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Tasty Curry in a Hurryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; ethos that made it a hit just round the corner. The menu is short, sweet and posted on the wall next to the serving counter where your (disposable) plate is generously filled. Where the menu is somewhat light on detail, servers give a wealth of detail, pointing out dishes like an excellent tandoori chicken thigh or the fresh and fiery chana massala. You are actively encouraged to mix and match two or even three curries on a bed of pilau rice. Side dishes like the veggie samosas are easily over looked under the hot lamps, but well worth a try since they are well filled with spicy potato and pea blend. The focus on budget dining sometimes goes overboard â&#x20AC;&#x201C; replacing napkins with a giant roll of blue paper seems excessive, but when a home-cooked style meal for two comes in at under ÂŁ15 it canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be said that they arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t putting the savings on the plate. + No frills - No frills

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INDIAN

In association with

Edinburgh ✱

with more stories from Thakur of family, cricket and, of course, food. A refurb was planned in spring 2012 as this guide went to press. + Giant dosa pancakes - Some of the tables are awkwardly placed

Mother India’s Café

3–5 Infirmary Street, Old Town, EH1 1LT (Map 2: D4, 92) 0131 524 9801, motherindiascafeedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–2pm, 5–10.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm; Sun noon–10pm. Veg; HW £11.85; Kids; T/A. £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The Edinburgh outpost of this Glasgow favourite has gained and retained its popularity through its trademark style of eating Indian food in tapas-sized portions. This way, a wider range of dishes can be tried even if not with a large group, and the menu is extensive. There are the familiar onion bhajis and garlic mushroom pakora, as well as the more unusual such as chicken achari, with a sour lime and chilli pickle, or fish cakes – given a kick from plenty of green chillis, ginger and garlic. Lamb karahi comes with a powerfully rich pepper sauce, and for something milder the aloo saag dosa is filled with potato and spinach, a good example of the southern Indian rice and lentil pancake. Sides include various nans such as peshwari, fluffy with its sweet filling. The restaurant recommends four dishes between two people – any more than this and you might need a doggy bag (which, incidentally, is happily provided). Unfortunately table sizes don’t match the multiple-plate concept, particularly for parties of two, who tend to be given the seating choice of doorway or main thoroughfare. + Innovative tapas format - Some awkward seating spots

Ocean Spice

3 Annfield, Newhaven, Leith, EH6 4JF See Takeaway & Home Delivery

The Original Mosque Kitchen and Café Edinburgh Central Mosque, 50 Potterrow, Southside, EH8 9BT (Map 2: D5, 76) 0131 662 9111 | T/A. £5 (lunch)

Mya

Unit 9, Commercial Quay, 92 Commercial Street, Leith, EH6 6LX See Thai

Namaste Kathmandu

17–19 Forrest Road, Old Town, EH1 2QH (Map 2: C4, 61) 0131 220 2273, namastektm.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon– 2.30pm, 5–11.30pm; Sun noon–2.30pm, 5–10.30pm. Veg; BYOB (£2.50; wine only); HW £12.95; Kids; T/A; D. £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Nepalese and Indian crossover Namaste Kathmandu brings a splash of Himalayan colour and cuisine to its busy Forrest Road location. Influences from neighbouring Tibet and beyond deliver Szechuan spicing and the satisfying minced chicken or vegetable steamed momo dumplings, arriving alongside bheda ko karang – succulent grilled lamb chops served as a starter or main. A subtly flavoured aloo bodi tama (potato, black eyed beans and bamboo shoots) gets a much needed lift from a side serving of achar (cucumber and potato pickle), while bheda tona with its meat prepared traditionally on the bone is a

Mithas: bringing colour, class and fine dining to lavish new Leith premises

slow burner that gradually yields flavour and background heat. Nepalese musical instruments including the sarangi and madal adorn the mustard and red walls, combining with candles and up lighting to give the room a comforting warmth. Knowledgeable staff happily guide diners through the good value thali lunches or set dinner offerings before adding a final end of meal twist with the unusual and refreshing candied fennel seeds. + Distinctive dishes in a welcoming setting - Mains occasionally a little too subtle in flavour

9 Cellars Thali

1–3 York Place, New Town, EH1 3EB (Map 1: E4, 116) 0131 557 9899 | Sun/ Mon 5.30–11pm; Tue–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5.30–11pm. LC; Veg; Pre; BYOB (£1); HW £11.95; Kids; T/A; D. £6.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Don’t judge this restaurant by the glowing photographs of food in the window display. To get an idea, just speak to chef and owner Phool Thakur, who’ll tell you of his history cooking in some fine establishments in India, and now serves much more than the usual biryanis. Starters are artfully presented, such as a neat arrangement of limemarinated king prawns dotted with carom seeds, or ‘Guirati Aloo Tikki’, a small mashed potato cake with mint yoghurt. Oddly despite ‘thali’ being in the name, it isn’t offered on the standard menu, but make sure to ask for it because it’s a great way to sample more of their dishes such as butter chicken or fish balchao, a spicy Goan dish made with dried shrimp paste. Mop it up with some of their puffy poori bread, which you might not need if you’ve ordered a giant dosa, crispy and yielding tasty masala filling. There’s a short selection of Indian desserts, but if you’re lucky you’ll end the evening

First set up to ease the burden of daylight fasting during Ramadan on the congregation of Edinburgh’s Central Mosque, this outdoor cafeteria-style restaurant has undergone several upgrades and upheavals down the years. Most recently the founders departed to a new site on Nicolson Square, taking the ‘Mosque Kitchen’ name with them and thus the ‘Original Mosque Kitchen’ has risen up in its place. Aside from the name above the door, little else has changed, except the welcome addition of a few indoor seats to complement the tented decking outside. Always popular with local office workers and students for the generous portions at affordable prices, the curries are simple, home-made and hearty. Piled high on rice or naan for under a fiver sag aloo will never win any beauty pageants, but this rich, dark spinach dish proves that beauty isn’t skin deep. Chicken jalfreizee is an explosion of spice and colour, full of flavour, but not too fiery. The recent split, while apparently acrimonious, has simply given the area one more budget dining option to call upon. + A distinctive dining spot - Al fresco by necessity; not much choice

Punjab’n de Rasoi

122–124 Leith Walk, Leith, EH6 5DT (Map 5: C5, off) 07865 895022, sikhsanjog. com/blog | Wed/Thu 11am–4pm; Fri/Sat 11am–8pm. Closed Sun–Tue. Veg; BYOB (£5); Kids; Wh; T/A. £7.95 (set lunch) / £9.50 (dinner)

A community café whose set-up was funded by a government grant sounds like a very worthy affair, but such a description, while accurate, doesn’t do justice to this fantastic venture serving up home-cooked style Sikh cuisine at the foot of Leith Walk. A slightly sparse layout is balanced by some homely touches and warm welcome from the volunteer staff. At lunchtime the thali selection offers a whistle-stop tour of the short, simple menu and is tremendous value (£7.95). The fish

SHAPLA Award winning takeaway Established 1993

Authentic Indian Bangladeshi Restaurant

0131 228 6666

Order Now - 0131 652 0405

50 East Fountainbridge Edinburgh, EH3 9BH

www.shaplatakeaway.co.uk 87 Easter Road Edinburgh EH7 5PW Home Delivery Service

“The focus is on the quality of the cooking and the pleasant, laid-back ambience” The List

www.gandhisrestaurant.co.uk www.gandhisrestaurant.co.uk

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INDIAN

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Edinburgh curry is a punchy cumin and turmericpacked standout and the rich, beautifully seasoned daal is the ideal partner for the fresh, fluffy chapattis. Desserts are too often dismissed on Indian menus, but it would be a mistake to miss the Punjabi speciality gajrela. This gooey, sticky carrot cake tastes like a dish handed down the generations and it fits perfectly with the home-spun, welcoming atmosphere. + Every dish tastes as though it’s cooked with love - The slightly spartan interior

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Rivage

126–130 Easter Road, Leith, EH7 5RJ (Map 1: H3, off) 0131 661 6888 | Mon–Sat noon–2pm, 6–11pm; Sun 12.30–2pm, 6–11pm. Veg; BYOB (no charge); HW £12.15; Kids; T/A; D. £7.95 (set lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

Owner and head chef Ryad Meeajane oversees this stylish Easter Road restaurant from behind the open tandoor oven counter while wife and coowner Catherine runs an efficient and informative front of house. Attention to detail stretches from preparation to presentation across an eclectic mix of good value lunch and à la carte dishes often given an innovative twist. Sweet and sour prawn balchao, its heat evident but not intrusive, arrives in starter bowls alongside aloo tikki – soft patties of well spiced potato and green peas lifted by mint and tamarind sauces and a splash of tomato and coriander chutney. A healthy list of vegetarian dishes including smoked aubergine baingan bharta vie with slow cooked hyderabadi biryani pots and popular mains of creamy, coconutinfused Goan fish curry and lamb kofta aloo meatballs in tangy tomato massala. Rosewater infused gulab jamun dessert adds syrupy sweet notes to a menu that successfully steers away from the norm. Well crafted furniture and screens imported from India also lend traditional warmth to a room with contemporary touches and a pleasing neighbourhood buzz. + Contemporary Indian cuisine with a relaxing neighbourhood vibe - Front of house can appear stretched at times

Saffrani

11 South College Street, Old Town, EH8 9AA (Map 2: D4, 89) 0131 667 1597, saffrani.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–11pm. Veg; Pre; BYOB (no charge); HW £11.95; T/A; D. £5.90 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

This small restaurant tucked away off Nicolson Street has retained its allround quality through a recent change in ownership, with an extensive list of curries from a variety of Indian regions.

To start, chicken chat is a substantial dish of spicy marinated chicken pieces with puffed up puri bread to scoop it up, and tandoori lamb chops are sufficiently charred but still tender. King prawn makhari is one of the milder options, with a creamy tomato base flavoured with fenugreek, while their lamb rogan josh is rich, heavy with chili and coriander. A previous emphasis on seafood has fallen away a little, though Goan fish curry is particularly notable, with large chunks of salmon and white fish in a coconut sauce. These are all very reasonably priced, with each being plenty to share between two. Finish off with a typical Indian dessert such as mango kulfi – not home-made, but still refreshing. + Generous curry portions - Off the beaten track location can result in a subdued atmosphere

Shapla

87 Easter Road, New Town, EH7 5PW See Takeaway & Home Delivery

Sonar Gao

191 Great Junction Street, Leith, EH6 5LQ See Takeaway & Home Delivery

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The Spice Pavilion

3a1 Dundas Street, New Town, EH3 6QG (Map 1: D4, 36) 0131 467 5506, thespicepavilion.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon– 2pm, 5pm–11pm. HW £12.95; Kids; T/A. £8.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

What do you get if you cross Italian hospitality and Indian inventiveness in the kitchen? Husband and wife team, Parwaiz and Cristina Khan have done just that and come up with a superb neighbourhood restaurant. With the exception of tandoori dishes, which merit their own dedicated chef, Parwaiz prepares every item on the menu himself and such attention to detail shines through. Roasted lamb chops are easily overdone, but here the meat is melt in the mouth tender and well spiced. The menu has a North Indian focus, but is confident with cuisine from across the subcontinent. Murgh Seylonese, with its large hunks of chicken in a coconut, lemon and ginger sauce is both a decidedly tropical and thoroughly refreshing curry. The ajwani jhinga nisha – sizzling, succulent king prawns in a complex blend of spices, is apparently famous in India for its healing powers and presumably its delicious carawaylike flavour. Cosy décor and service so attentive you’d think you were in a front room complete the homely, but superbly polished atmosphere. + Well matched side dish suggestions - Steep staircase neither wheelchair or reveller friendly

Specialists in Traditional Tandoori, Curries, Shish Kebab, Chicken Tikka & Biryani

Parties Catered For Q Phone Orders Welcome Edinburgh Evening News Scottish Curry Award 2009

www.kebabmahal.com

Rivage: entertaining cooking with counter-top tandoor ovens

Suruchi

• 14a Nicolson Street, Old Town, EH8 9DH (Map 2: E4, 85) 0131 556 6583, suruchirestaurant.com | Mon–Sun 11am–2pm, 5–11pm. LC; Pre; BYOB (£2.50); HW £10.50; Kids; T/A; D. £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner) • Suruchi Too, 121 Constitution Street, Leith, EH6 7AE (Map 5: D5, 35) 0131 554 3268, suruchirestaurant.com | Mon–Thu 11am–2pm, 5–10pm; Fri/Sat 11am–2pm, 5–11pm; Sun 11am–2pm, 5–10pm. LC; Veg; Pre; BYOB (£2.50); HW £10.50; Kids; T/A; D. £5 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Sitting directly opposite the Festival Theatre, Suruchi will always attract late-night diners and pre-theatre bargain hunters. The real challenge is to inspire regulars in this highly competitive neck of the woods. The owners seem alive to criticism of a rather tired atmosphere and plan a major refresh of both the interior and the food. It would be a shame if they threw the baby out with the bathwater, though, as the menu contains some gems that are well worth keeping. Soup is a rare find on an Indian menu, but based on the rich, complex and spicy fish soup here it should be included far more often. Venison Maharajha is inspired by a recipe once reserved for India’s kings: loaded with spice and red wine it makes a dynamic Scotia-Indian fusion. Not all dishes are so successful – the salmon tikka is perfectly cooked, but it cries out for bolder spicing and the Navaratan koftas are far too sweet both in filling and the accompanying mild sauce. Down in Leith Suruchi Too tends to enjoy a calmer pace and offers an opportunity to engage with themed events through the year. + Inventive fusion of quality Scottish ingredients and Indian cuisine - Uneven execution of obvious skill in the kitchen

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Tanjore

6–8 Clerk Street, Southside, EH8 9HX (Map 3: G1, 62) 0131 478 6518, tanjore. co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5–10pm; Sat/Sun noon–3.30pm, 5–10pm. Veg; Pre; BYOB (no charge); Kids; T/A. £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Relative newcomer Tanjore brings a wealth of south Indian cuisine to its Newington locale, wrapped up in a friendly and relaxed café setting. Owner and head chef Boon Ganeshram switches between open kitchen and compact dining area, describing tapas lunch options and à la carte offerings, which all come with a discount early evening. The menu covers familiar thali and Hyderabadi biryani mains together with a number of less familiar dishes (often vegetarian) that warrant investigation. Fluffy layered bread parotta supports well spiced and deep flavoured chicken karaikudi curry, while traditional lentil dumpling starters massala vadai blend texture and heat with a mint chutney boost. Available in family-sized four-foot lengths, savoury crêpe mysore massala dosa arrives with a trio of chutneys, lentil broth sambar and a satisfyingly spicy massala potato stuffing. No-charge BYOB proves popular, and there are dessert dosas teamed with banana, ice cream and pistachio nuts alongside delicately spiced chai tea. While the décor may lack finesse and the lighting is dialled up to the max, ultimately it’s the range and quality of southern Indian fare that shines through. + Enjoyable south Indian dishes delivered in informal café surroundings - Highly illuminated dining area

10 to 10 In Delhi

67 Nicolson Street, Old Town, EH8 9BZ (Map 2: E5, 73) 07536 757770, 10to10indelhi.com | Mon–Sun 10am– 10pm.

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Veg; HW £None; Kids; T/A. £5.95 (set lunch) / £6 (dinner)

This Indian café is small but packed with character: there’s not an inch of space not decorated with cushions or drapes, and Bollywood films are on loop in the corner. As the name indicates, it’s open from morning to night, with a choice of takeaway snacks or bigger meals. Chef and owner Alieu Badjan spent years in big restaurants but is now dedicated to serving the honest home style food he knows best. At lunchtimes, their speciality is the ‘roti roll’ – essentially a scoop of any curry wrapped up in a roti flatbread and served with salad. The mixed platter for two is great value: this comes on a ‘Lazy Susan’ with several compartments surrounding a mound of rice. Chickpea curry is bound with green chili paste, and has a citrus flavour, while the chicken masala tastes far from ordinary, with fresh herbs and generous portions of tender meat. This comes with a glass of tropical juice per person and their most popular dessert, the homemade mango cheesecake. Like everything else, it is artfully presented and brought out with a smile. + Great value home-style cooking - Decoration overkill

The Verandah Tandoori

17 Dalry Road, West End, EH11 2BQ (Map 4: A3, 33) 0131 337 5828, theverandah.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon– 2.30pm, 5–11.45pm. HW £12.95; Kids; T/A; D. £7.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

In the same family hands for over 30 years, Dalry Road’s Verandah Tandoori continues to serve its loyal clientele with well-prepared Bangladeshi and Indian cuisine. Overseen by images of celebrity diners from decades past, Manager Foisol Choudhury and his quietly effective team navigate tables clad in white linen in a compact room of unadorned peach and chocolate walls – an interior refresh should be complete by spring 2012. Increasingly popular thali and fish curries are supported by Indian classics, tandoori and biryani dishes, with the citrusry Bangladeshi favourite shatkora and tomato rich chicken hara massala residing in the specials. Vegetarian dishes palok gagor – its spinach and grated carrot lifted by creamy cashew nuts – and the flavourful chick-pea and potato chana aloo can be preceded by a mix of pakora and kebab starters, king prawn puri and yoghurt-marinated tandoori lamb chops. Banquet dinner options, a twocourse lunch deal and a comprehensive takeaway offering complete the picture for a restaurant whose décor and menu is looking to recapture its best years. + Extensive menu choice and banquet deals - Tandoori lamb chops starter a little dry

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Voujon

107 Newington Road, Southside, EH9 1QW (Map 3: H3, 63) 0131 667 5046, voujonedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–2pm, 5.30–11.30pm. Veg; HW £10.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £8.50 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Despite sitting at the bottom of Newington Road, Voujon has always eschewed the traditional neighbourhood restaurant look and gone for a more polished, city centre feel. The primarily Bengali and North Indian menu has plenty of familiar names, but more adventurous choices are rewarded as often as not. Sardine bhorta is packed with fresh herbs which complement the fish and the accompanying chapatti mops up the tomato-based sauce. The consciously modern crockery, all right-angles and hard edges, threatens to overshadow simpler dishes like the

INDIAN

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chicken tikka stir fry, but clean, nuanced flavours shine through. Green herb chicken is a neat balance of fiery and fresh – coriander, fenugreek and spring onions bringing a fragrant touch to the green chilli heat. Classics like lamb rhogun josh are handled with aplomb, a rich, red, peppery sauce bringing just the right amount of heat to the tender lamb. Staying ahead of the game is never easy, but the fact that owners of Voujon are gearing up for a refurbishment of their already stylish interior speaks volumes for their ambition. + Classic cooking in contemporary surroundings - Busy road make window tables a little noisy

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✱ HITLIST ITALIAN ✱ Centotre Taking the philosophy of ‘fresh, simple, Italian’ and living it, creating consistently excellent dishes made by food lovers for food lovers.

Zest

15 North St Andrew Street, New Town, EH2 1HJ (Map 1: E4, 115) 0131 556 5028, zest-restaurant.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon– 2pm, 5.30–11pm. HW £12.95; T/A; D. £15 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

A sophisticated restaurant just off St Andrew Square, Zest has a short menu with a focus on North Indian cuisine and it’s packed with dishes rarely, if ever, seen elsewhere in the city. Salmon 65, a dish pioneered in the high-end hotels of Goa, is a sizeable slab of pan-fried fish where the heat of the chilli and garlic marinade is skilfully offset by a coconut and herb crust. You’ll find sheikh kebab on many menus, but rarely is it the tender, carefully spiced dish on show here. From Afgan border country comes Muglai chana gosht, a hearty stew of lamb and chick peas with a big hit of lemon to cut through the fiery sauce. The dish P297 Chicken stands out for the name alone – this easy-going crowd pleaser, slices of chicken, onion and peppers bound together in delicately spiced tomato sauce was created by owner (retired cabbie Gulam Choudary) as a post-shift dish for his former colleagues and named after his old taxi number. This is one restaurant where you are rarely steered wrong. + Well informed staff with stories to tell - The naan is nothing to write home about

TIPList DAY-TIME INDIAN CAFÉS • Assam’s Café Leith Walk newcomer with a successful Glasgow blueprint 68 • Bollywood: The Coffee Box Nutan Bala’s blue spice box of delights 69

Scotland and Italy have long had an affinity, and this is reflected in the sheer range and glorious multiplicity of Italian restaurants in Edinburgh. Of course, the diversity and rich heritage of Italy herself is also laid out before you. Depending on your mood, there’s everything from the rich stickiness of a creamy risotto to a cheesy, crispy, chewy pizza: from the tart spaghetti alla puttanesca to a rich, herby pesto on buttered penne. Never mind the time of year – you can always find summer here. Reviewers: Susan Smith, Justin Tilbury, Natalya Wells

✱ Italian Kitchen This new cosy underground space in Stockbridge shows promise with classy revival of the Italian classics ✱ Itri A modern, stylish neighbourhood restaurant bent on providing an authentic Italian experience with fresh ingredients and excellent pizzas. ✱ Nonna’s A creative list of daily changing specials served up by the welcoming Stornaiuolo family ✱ Locanda di Gusti Deliberately eschewing the British-Italian clichés in favour of interesting ingredients and adventurous Italian regional cooking.

Al Fresco

22 Union Place, New Town, EH1 3NQ (Map 1: G4, 144) 0131 556 7771, giulianos.co.uk | Mon–Sat 5–10.30pm. Closed Sun. Pre; HW £13.80; Kids; T/A. £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

There’s something of a Giuliano’s theme to this stretch of Union Street, with the original restaurant, the takeaway next door and this incarnation, Al Fresco, just a few doors down. Try and get a table before a show at the Playhouse opposite, however, and you’ll see why they need the space. A good value pre-theatre menu doesn’t hurt either, although this can mean that it gets a bit quiet when the doors open over the road. Be prepared to be welcomed like a long lost friend, though – this is where the heart of the restaurant is and what has helped make this enduringly popular place an institution. The menu tends towards comfort rather than adventure, but the focaccia caprese is undeniably delicious –

the simultaneously crisp and chewy pizza base loaded with gooey melted mozzarella and fresh tomato and garlic. Follow this with the rigatoni broccoli e salsiccia, the pasta loaded with cream and mixed with sharp, spiced sausage. If cream isn’t your thing, then you might like to avoid the dessert menu altogether, but you’ll kick yourself if you miss the cherry cheesecake. + The buzz before a performance - The lull after it starts

Al Dente

139 Easter Road, Leith, EH7 5QA (Map 1: H3, off) 0131 652 1932, al-denterestaurant.co.uk | Mon 5.45–10pm; Tue–Thu noon–2pm, 5.45–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–2pm, 5.45–10.30pm. Closed Sun. HW £14.20; Kids. £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

This cosy little neighbourhood restaurant

• Kebab Mahal Everbustling café that deﬁnes no-frills curries 71 • Mosque Kitchen A move indoors for the student-favourite budget buffet 72 • Punjab’n de Rasoi Thali with love from the ladies of Leith 73 • 10 to 10 In Delhi An ever-colourful outlook and home-style cooking 74

11 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH, EH10 4HN

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Edinburgh is easily missed as you walk along one of the less salubrious stretches of Easter Road – an uninspiring frontage with frosted windows doesn’t exactly motivate passersby. However, enough people have seen beyond this for word to get out and Al Dente to grow into a very popular local eatery that you’d be best to reserve a table in, even at midweek. Its esteem comes down to its reasonably priced authentic Italian menu, which is packed full of flavour. A light puff pastry tart stuffed with spinach and ricotta is sweet, creamy and truly tasty as a starter and more successful than a grilled asparagus wrapped in Parma ham and topped with a poached egg, which tries a bit too hard to balance different flavours. A choice of pasta and meat or fishy secondi follows, with an excellent home-made gnocchi ripe with butter and sweet sage sauce ideal for vegetarians and a rabbit medallion stuffed with ham, salami and pancetta providing a hearty meaty choice. Home-made desserts are similarly powerful, with a soft poached pear presented in a strong cinnamon redwine sauce and one of a good quality, amaretto-rich tiramisu. + A rich and exciting menu packed full of flavour - Not for diners watching their waistline

summer of 2011 and is already bustling. From the restaurant family that includes DiMaggio’s and Café Andaluz, budget diners looking for something a little more exciting will expect a lot from Amarone. So far, local business people and shoppers from nearby St Andrews Square, George Street and Princes Street don’t seem to be disappointed, relaxing happily in booths or comfortable fabric covered chairs. The menu has as wide a range as you would hope from a good Italian restaurant, including all the classics. A garlicky and crispy focaccia Siciliana with tomatoes, rocket and parmesan shavings accompanies a really good antipasto misto as a starter. Looking beyond the classic pizzas, a pan-seared duck breast is cooked to melt-in-your-mouth perfection and a grilled halibut fillet is well accentuated with spinach, wild mushroom and pine nuts, and a green basil mash. An ice chocolate and praline mousse makes a familiar tasting nutty dessert while the tiramisu is disappointingly low on creaminess. The lunch and early dining menu offers good choice and value, so well worth checking out post shopping spree. + A well thought-out, good quality menu - Desserts could be a bit more exciting

Amarone

104 Hanover Street, New Town, EH2 1DR (Map 1: D5, 88) 0131 220 5155, amoredogs.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–4pm, 5–10pm. HW £14.25; Kids; Wh. £13.50 (lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

13 St Andrew Square, New Town, EH2 2BH (Map 1: E5, 94) 0131 523 1171, amaronerestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Sun 8am–midnight; Sat/Sun 10am–midnight. Veg; Pre; HW £15.75; Kids; Wh; T/A. £13.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

This vast, contemporary, Italian-themed restaurant complete with pastoral photographs, high domed roof and colourfully lit ceiling art opened in the

Amore Dogs

The canteen-like interior of no-frills Amore Dogs is softened on entrance by a pair of red velour-covered Chesterfield armchairs, that patrons can lounge in while sampling some of the lighter

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www.nonnas-kitchen.co.uk

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dishes on the menu and enjoying a drink. Those with a bigger appetite venturing further in will find a trendy, split-level eatery with quirky, slightly iconic décor, including a comic fresco take on Botticelli’s ‘Venus’ behind the bar. The good-value menu is similarly simple with a few original twists. While retaining its Italian focus, in 2011 Amore Dogs’ introduced some American influences, with a grill section including a range of burgers. A very good Italian starter is the garlic mushroom bruschetta while the pizzas can be as basic or complex as you like, with a range of optional toppings. A spicy salami pizza with anchovies and deliciously caramelised onion comes on a thin, bubbly base with plenty of mozzarella. A thick, juicy beef burger is well cooked and arrives with crunchy steak fries. Desserts are fairly straightforward and include a decent tiramisu or panna cotta and mulled wine fruits. Amore Dogs is ideal for dinners looking for better value than New Town restaurants and better quality than local pubs. + Good grub at good prices - Flimsy canteen furniture

Asti

73 Broughton Street, EH1 3RJ (Map 1: F3, 130) 0131 558 9156, astiedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Thu 9am–10pm; Fri/Sat 9am–11pm; Sun 9am–4pm. Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; T/A. £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Owned by the same people who run the neighbouring Rapido, Asti is a refined, relaxed eatery in comparison to its neighbour, specialising in decent Italian dishes rather than fast food. Painted a pleasing shade of mocha, this cafécum-restaurant takes its name from the Piedmontese province famed for its sparkling wine and white truffles, and offers something for everyone throughout the day. That could be bruschetta with goats’ cheese or eggs benedict for breakfast, salads, panini and pasta for lunch, coffee and cake or an evening glass of wine with crostini. To satisfy more sizeable appetites, a proper sit-down dinner is available too – generally in the larger back room – where you can tackle attractive plates of antipasti, primi and secondi at your leisure. + Easy-going vibe - Two eating areas quite different in character

Bar Roma

39a Queensferry Street, West End, EH2 4RA (Map 4: C1, 6) 0131 226 2977, barroma.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–11pm; Fri/ Sat noon–midnight. Sun 12:30–11pm. Pre; HW £16.35; Kids; Wh; T/A. £11.50 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Celebrating its 31st birthday this year, Bar Roma remains the consummate family-run, and family-friendly, Italian restaurant. This is a large, bustling, brightly lit place – and while they’re more than happy to cater to couples, this is a perfect venue for larger groups, from business lunches to birthday parties. That’s not to suggest that it’s a soulless place, far from it. The staff are the heart of the place – there’s an ample supply of good humour, massive pepper grinders and even the occasional bit of singing – while the food is an unashamed selection of big-flavoured dishes. A superb opening gambit is the bresaola, served with rocket, parmesan and lemon, and a refreshing and delicately spiced start to proceedings. The selection of mains is huge, but a tagliatelle Portovenere is particularly rewarding, offering a rich and spicy mix of mussels and calimari. Alternatively try the pollo ai porri, chicken pan fried with leeks and accompanied by a delicious, rich white wine and cream sauce.

Desserts are heavy on the dairy, but this is nicely offset by the tart cherries in the coppa all’amarena. + Family gatherings welcomed – and bring the kids - Large venue means atmosphere can suffer on a quiet night

Café Domenico

30 Sandport Street, Leith, EH6 6EP (Map 5: C3, 21) 0131 467 7266, cafedomenico. co.uk | Mon 10am–3pm; Tue/Wed 10am–3pm, 6–9pm; Thu/Fri 10am–3pm, 6–10pm; Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am– 4pm. HW £12.50; Kids; T/A. £9 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Tucked away behind the Cameo Bar in Leith, it’s easy to pass the small entrance to the Café Domenico by. Don’t make this mistake, though, as, housed in this tiny bistro with its eclectic decorations, scattered wall tiles and red and white check tablecloths, is a gloriously simple and satisfying menu and a genuinely warm welcome. Space is at a premium, but the L-shaped room doesn’t feel over-crowded, instead giving the place the air of a dinner party at a wellheeled bohemian’s flat. Specials change regularly, and sometimes more frequently than the listings on the blackboard do, but can include some classy arancini, golden and crisp on the outside and filled with a garlicky ragu, and plenty of melted cheese. There’s a strong range of pasta dishes available, meaning that you can choose between the surprisingly light and spring-like penne with cheese, asparagus and spinach, or pile straight into a fullon spicy sausage, red pepper and cream sauce that genuinely packs some heat. Either way, try to leave enough room for the home-made brownie – a rich, chewy treat. + You could easily become a regular here - Affogato is normally served with less than a pint of ice-cream

Café Marina

61 Cockburn Street, Old Town, EH1 1BS See Cafés

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Centotre

103 George Street, New Town, EH2 3ES (Map 1: C5, 64) 0131 225 1550, centotre. com | Mon–Thu 7.30am–10pm; Fri/Sat 7.30am–11pm; Sun 10am–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 7.30am–midnight; Sun 10am–10pm.] LC; Veg; Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £14.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Centotre manages to pull off a neat trick. Despite the austere, ex-bank interior from those lost days when financial edifices were akin to cathedrals, it still manages to maintain a feeling of warmth and intimacy in the evenings or bright and breezy freshness in the afternoons. This latter aesthetic is continued from venue to menu, with an explicit focus on fresh, simple ingredients and cookery that, with minimum fuss, allows these natural flavours to shine. A combination of regular shipments from Italy and a local sourcing policy that puts most others to shame means that, from the amuse bouche of crisp arancini to the last spoonful of dessert, this is something special. Starters include ravioli with pumpkin, sage and a dash of amaretto liqueur which is a far lighter confection than it has any right to be. Follow up with sea bass, scattered with almonds and sultanas or roast chicken breast with garlicky red pepper – both dishes redolent of summertime, but perhaps outdone in this respect by the light-as-air, but gloriously rich, dark and white chocolate mousse. + Trace the provenance of your ingredients on the map on the wall - The music can be a bit overwhelming

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Edinburgh banana split, while adults might enjoy a decent poached pear in a red wine sauce or a sweet amaretto crêpe, unusually accompanied by fresh strawberries as well as vanilla ice-cream. + Fun, friendly and ideal for a big party - The kitchen’s talents are spread thin with an exhaustive menu

Giuliano’s on the Shore

1 Commercial Street, Leith, EH6 6JA (Map 5: C3, 20) 0131 554 5272, giulianos. co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. Veg; HW £14.50; Kids; T/A. £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Itri: respectful allegiance to the simple delights of Italian food

Cruz Bar and Restaurant 14 The Shore, Leith, EH6 6QN See Bars & Pubs

Cucina

Hotel Missoni, 1 George IV Bridge, Old Town, EH1 1AD (Map 2: C3, 34) 0131 240 1666, hotelmissoni.com | Mon–Thu 6.30–10am, 12.30–3pm, 6–10.30pm; Fri 6.30–10am, 12.30–3pm, 6–11pm; Sat 7–11am, 12.30–3pm, 6–11pm; Sun 7–11am, 12.30–3pm, 6–10.30pm. [Bar open: Sun–Wed 10am–midnight; Thu–Sat 10am–1am.] Pre; HW £19.50; Kids; Wh. £13.50 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

One thing that can be said for dining in a hotel restaurant owned by a multinational, designer fashion house, is that it’s likely to be a glamorous affair. From the smile on the Missoni-kilted doormen to the toilets worthy of a film star, the experience will leave you feeling treated. The food thankfully lives up to this sense of style and hospitality. Thick slices of deep pink bresaola are served with plenty of rocket and a tangy goat’s cheese dressing while canolicchi (razor clams) arrive in their shells with tomato sauce and borlotti beans. Pasta is evidently fresh, with the gnocchi melting rather than chewy, coated in a long-simmered ragu of wild boar while main courses include well-executed dishes such as slow roast lamb with Jerusalem artichoke puree and crispy parsnips or pan-fried hake with buttery Savoy cabbage. There’s a classic tiramisu on the dessert menu, but the fondente al cioccolato is an exemplary chocolate pudding with liquid centre, adorned with pistachio ice cream and saffron custard. Attentive staff will leave you with complimentary amaretto biscuits, and the chef might even make an appearance to share stories of menu-adviser and celebrity chef Giorgio Locatelli. + Menu that lives up to the sophistication

of the hotel - Extensive but expensive wine list

Divino Enoteca

5 Merchant Street, Old Town, EH1 2QD See Bars & Pubs

Ecco Vino

19 Cockburn Street, Old Town, EH1 1BP See Bars & Pubs

La Favorita

325–331 Leith Walk, Leith, EH6 8SA See Takeaway & Home Delivery

Giuliano’s

18–19 Union Place, New Town, EH1 3NQ (Map 1: G4, 143) 0131 556 6590, giulianos. co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–midnight. Pre; HW £14.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £18; £22.50; £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Situated directly across the road from the Playhouse Theatre, Giuliano’s has achieved Edinburgh institution status due to its popularity with theatre-goers, tourists and large parties – including hen and stag dos. Its cavernous interior is resplendent with Romanesque statues, checked table clothes and pictures of the Italian countryside. The menu is also traditional and vast – if you can think of a typical Italian restaurant dish, it’ll probably be there. Peppers stuffed with a rice and vegetable mix and topped with parmesan is not a bad way to start and a little bit more successful than a tomato, avocado and mozzarella salad, which depends too much on the quality of the ingredients. A salad starter, however, leaves room for a decent Della Casa pizza that’s crispy on the outside and juicy in the middle. Red meat lovers can opt for one of a selection of steaks, which come well cooked although disappointingly accompanied by watery mash and lacklustre veg. The dessert menu is endless with plenty of ice-cream based options to please the kids, including

Kids have been making their own pizza at Giuliano’s on the Shore for the best part of 20 years, with many growing up and bringing their own children to pick up the prized party hat. They are warmly welcomed by long-serving head waiter Daniele, who creates a convivial atmosphere. Unfortunately, the menu at Giuliano’s on the Shore has failed to develop at the same rate as its original clientele, and it now struggles to compete with more contemporary competitors nearby. An enormous menu features all the classics, including some soft, fresh calamari only slightly let down by a soggy batter. A heftier choice in the antipasti range is the melanzane alla parmigiana, a tower of sliced aubergine well cooked in a fairly typical tomato sauce and sprinkled with Parmesan. A Della Casa pizza with spicy sausage, peppers and mushrooms is a little smaller than many a modern 14-incher and frustratingly lacking in flavour. Giuliano’s on the Shore pays homage to its location with a selection of fishy specials, including swordfish with a pesto sauce and served with cubed veg. Dolci include the famous Luca’s ice cream. Atmosphere is king here, so visit with the kids or on a special Italian night, when entertainment from three-time accordion world-champion Roberto Enzo will liven it up. + Lovely warm welcome from Daniele and team - It’s time to bring the menu into the 21st century

Good Seed Bistro

101/102 Dalry Road, West End, EH11 2DW See Bistros & Brasseries

Gusto

135 George Street, New Town, EH2 4JH (Map 1: B6, 55) 0131 225 2555, gustorestaurants.uk.com | Sun–Thu noon–10.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm. Veg; HW £14.25; Kids; Wh. £19.95; £24.50; £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

The bars and restaurant’s of Edinburgh’s George Street are a magnet for youthful business people, footballers (and their wives), and the wealthier section of the city’s student population. A pretty girl in a mini skirt meets diners at Gusto’s door and steers them past a black and white floor-tiled bar area to their seats. These might be at the long, central, feature dining table, at one of the more intimate large round wooden tables set into the wall or in the more traditional dining area up on the mezzanine level. From pizza to lobster, Gusto’s menu has something for all tastes. Decent quality mussels in a delicious garlic and creamy white-wine sauce makes an enjoyable starter while the slightly odd combination of baked avocado with baby scallops is enticing but less successful. The smoked haddock, leak and pea risotto is another Italian staple that is realised pretty perfectly, while the adventurous pizza choices (including a Peking duck on a hoi sin base) are soft and fluffy while crispy on the top – if slightly short of mozzarella. Creative desserts are a highlight – these include a distinctly un-Italian but really yummy

Nutella and mascarpone calzone or a bombolini of doughnuts, chocolate sauce and cream. + Delightful desserts - Busy, loud, trendy – don’t expect the personal touch

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Italian Kitchen

18–24 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge, EH4 1LY (Map 1: A3, 33) 0131 315 2860, italian-kitchen.net | Mon–Thu 5–10pm; Fri–Sun noon–11pm. Veg; HW £13.95; Kids. £17.50 (lunch) / £17.50 (dinner)

This small basement restaurant shows promising will to put the mediocre high-street Italian chains in their place by bringing original dishes and quality produce to Stockbridge village. A relationship with the community is evident with their sourcing of meat and fish from locals Bowers and Armstrongs and a fortnightly takeaway stall at Stockbridge’s Sunday market. The atmosphere at the restaurant is buzzy yet not crowded, in a room that has eschewed gingham tablecloths in favour of smart wood and leather furnishings. Starters include a steaming bowl of mussels in a flavourful broth of lemon, parsley and black pepper, but it’s worth trying their daily changing ravioli to see what they can do with fresh pasta. Pizzas are also a cut above, with some unusual toppings such as mussels and wild mushrooms. The perfectly cooked dough of the calzone yields a stuffing of broccoli, Italian sausage and two cheeses, while ribeye steak comes with an interesting fried potato hash with spring onion, Scamorza cheese and egg. For dessert, chocolate fudge ice cream will please children but adults can enjoy the more sophisticated saffron poached pears paired with strong hard cheese. + Fresher, tastier, more exciting dishes than an Italian chain at a similar price - Might be too busy to casually drop in

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Itri

169–173 Gilmore Place, Southside, EH3 9PW (Map 3: A2, off) 0131 228 3115, itrirestaurant.co.uk | Mon 5–10pm; Tue–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5–10pm; Fri noon–2.30pm, 5–11pm; Sat noon–11pm; Sun noon–10pm. HW £12.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £21 (lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Stylish, contemporary Itri is a great find for Edinburgh residents in the Polwarth area and if you’re prepared to venture off the beaten track is not too far for those paying a visit to the Cameo cinema or King’s Theatre. Opened in 2008 by three friends who wanted to bring some authentic Italian food to Edinburgh, its simple menu includes a variety of meat and fish dishes as well as a good selection of pizzas. A generous selection of shellfish in a garlicky olive oil and white wine sauce is a delicious starter for seafood lovers, while bruschetta mista has a selection of aubergine, tomato, courgette and pepper toppings. Thin, stone-baked pizzas are a temptation and a fantastic smelling quattro formaggi of mozzarella, gorgonzola, goat’s cheese and scamorza is soft, gooey and delightful. However, a lighter choice of fresh salmon broken into nibbles and scattered with asparagus, potatoes and cherry tomatoes is cooked to simple perfection with a hint of basil, a sprinkling of olive oil and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. Chocoholics will not be disappointed after a 15-minute wait for the chocolate soufflé, which is beautifully soft on the inside and accompanied by vanilla ice-cream, while a thick chocolate mouse with a biscuit bottom is not for the faint hearted. + Modern, genuinely Italian and stylish menu - Where is it exactly? The List Eating & Drinking Guide 77

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Edinburgh Jamie’s Italian

Assembly Rooms, 54 George Street, City Centre, EH2 2LR (Map 1: D5, 72) jamiesitalian.com | Mon–Sat noon–11pm, Sun noon–10.30pm. HW £15.35; Kids; Wh. £19 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Edinburgh Council faced criticism for introducing commercial tenants after spending £9 million refurbishing the Assembly Rooms, but no-one could dispute this A-listed edifice was criminally under-used. And given that Edinburgh’s relationship with prestige dining chains is still in its relative infancy, Jamie’s Italian is an intriguing addendum to the city’s dining culture. Opening in July 2012, just in time for the festival, it will occupy the groundfloor ‘Supper Room’ with seating for around 200 and another 50 able to dine al fresco. In terms of décor, they weren’t divulging much when we went to print, but previous projects – like the former GPO building on Glasgow’s George Square – suggest a stylish, but sympathetic, refit. Don’t anticipate spotting Jamie at the hotplate (he’s a rather busy man), but do expect all the Oliver ‘brand’ hallmarks – quality ingredients, trendy accessories and funky presentation. Dishes to look out for include antipasti sharing planks laden with cured meats and angel spaghetti with squid ink and scallops. Unlike the Glasgow site, they will be taking bookings from the get-go, but count on a long wait for a table otherwise. [Not yet open at time of going to press.]

Librizzi

69 North Castle Street, New Town, EH2 3LJ (Map 1: B5, 62) 0131 226 1155, librizzi. co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–2pm, 5.30–11pm. Closed Sun. LC; HW £14.90; Kids. £12.50 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Multi award-winning southern Italian cuisine by head chef Rosario Sartore

On the corner of Queen Street and North Castle Street, a mere stone’s throw from the shrill excesses of George Street’s style bars, Librizzi’s offers something that’s rare to find in the area: an old school Italian. Bow-tied waiters move between the respectfully distanced tables in the high-ceilinged main room, which is big enough to cater to large groups, the smaller adjoining area for select gatherings and an alcove for the more romantically inclined. Fish is owner Filippo Librizzi’s first love, and you could certainly do a lot worse than start with the smoked swordfish, which is as rich in the pleasant charcoal reek of bonfire as it is delicate in texture, the only downside being an over-generous hand with a garnish of red peppercorns. A main course of tuna steak in a piquant sauce is a refreshing blast of sweet and sharp, but the lamb cutlets win by a margin – deliciously chargrilled but tender within, and served with bountiful quantities of garlic and rosemary. Of the desserts, the pear poached in red wine and spices is a warming finish. + A deservedly popular Table D’Hote menu - Profiteroles seem to have come direct from the freezer

✱ Locanda de Gusti

7–11 East London Street, New Town, EH7 4BN (Map 1: F3, 122) 0131 558 9581, locandadegusti.com | Tue–Fri noon– 2.30pm, 5–10.30pm; Sat noon–11pm. Closed Sun/Mon in winter. Jul: closed first two weeks. Pre; HW £16.95; Kids; Wh. £12.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

The restaurant formerly known as Bella Mbriana continues to choose the road less travelled by and offer what they describe as a genuine Italian experience as opposed to the more anglicised fare available elsewhere. Tucked around the corner from Broughton Street, it’s ideally placed to capitalise on the area’s foodie reputation and the growing appetite for authentic, locally sourced food. Owners Maria and Rosario Sartore avoid what they call the British-Italian cliches of lasagne and garlic bread. Instead, the menu is a tempting mix of the known and the new, offering delicate starters such as shallow-fried courgette flowers with a honey and chilli dip, as well as a more substantial Provolone fondue with a chilli honey bruschetta. The focus of the mains is firmly on fish, with even a fusion of paccheri pasta, olive oil, garlic, kale and ricotta receiving a dressing of anchovy oil. If you fancy something more overtly marine, the Scialatielle pasta with courgettes, cannellini beans and clams is a rich and creamy, if slightly gritty, alternative. Rich the mains may be, but don’t let that stop you trying the homemade panna cotta for dessert. + Adventurous and genuinely exciting menu - Not the place to go for pasta carbonara

Mamma’s American Pizza Company

30 Grassmarket, Old Town, EH1 2JU See North American

✱ Nonna’s Kitchen

7-11 East London Street, Edinburgh EH7 4BN Tel: 0131 558 9581 www.locandadegusti.com

45 Morningside Road, Southside, EH10 4AZ (Map 3: A5, off) 0131 466 6767, nonnas-kitchen.co.uk | Tue–Sun 10am– 2.45pm, 5pm–10pm. Closed Mon. Pre; HW £15.30; Kids; Wh. £12.50 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

With a warm welcome from the Stornaiuolo family, this corner venue in Morningside is everything anyone could want in a neighbourhood restaurant. One thing certain is that you could never get bored of the menu – despite a short à la carte selection, the list of daily specials is so long you’ll have trouble remembering them as they’re read out. Fish and seafood dominate so expect revived classics such as tender lemon sole goujons with

home-made tartare sauce, or scallops the size of gobstoppers paired with black pudding. Clam linguine is exemplary, and the chef will accommodate to taste by adding fresh chilli. Pizzas from the main menu are enormous, with a doughier Neapolitan rather than crispy Romanstyle base. Topping combinations are old favourites, such as Parma ham with rocket and parmesan, or artichoke, ham and egg on their eponymous version. Desserts are a mixture of family-friendly and sophisticated – the ‘Coppa Cioccolato’ is their take on an ice cream sundae, and the pannacotta is perfectly wobbly, with fresh raspberries complementing the creaminess. Listen to stories of the ‘nonnas’ (grandmothers) that inspired this cooking and you’ll soon feel part of the family. + Exciting daily specials from a family kitchen - Pizzas not as exciting as the rest of the menu

Origano

277 Leith Walk, Leith, EH6 8PD (Map 1: H2, off) 0131 554 6539, origano-leith.co.uk | Mon–Thu 5–10pm; Fri 12.30–2.30pm, 5–10.30pm; Sat 12.30–10.30pm; Sun 1–10pm. Veg; BYOB (£3; Mon/Tue only); HW £12.50; Kids; T/A; D. £12.50 (lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

Leith Walk is rich with Italian restaurants vying for a share of the passing custom in this busy part of town, so it was a brave move of Simon Fletcher and Dominik Blicharski to open Origano on a shoestring in mid-2011. The pair are aiming to bring a New York-style neighbourhood pizzeria into the mix and have got off to a very good start. The tiny venue looks the part with simple but modern décor, basic wooden furniture and blackboards listing the antipasto options. Beware of generous portions to start, with the large antipasto sharing platter including a selection of four meats, olives, ciabatta, garlic and pesto dips. Sharing is also the name of the game when it comes to the pizzas, which go up to 16-inch. If you like your pizza thin and crispy, a tasty Milano complete with salami, pepperoni, pancetta, garlic and parsley will hit the spot. For those not interested in pizza, there’s only a limited choice of pasta, including an rather oily arrabbiata. Origano concludes with aplomb, however, with a couple of really good home-made desserts, particularly a fantastically creamy and fluffy tiramisu. Word is getting out about this friendly, cosy, great-value neighbourhood eatery, ensuring it has every chance of success. + Great value in a cosy, convivial atmosphere - Uninspiring pasta dishes prove disappointing

Papoli

244a Morrison Street, West End, EH3 8DT See Round the World

Ristorante Ferrari

1 Merchiston Place, Bruntsfield, Southside, EH10 4NP (Map 3: A4, 29) 0131 622 0108, ristoranteferrari.co.uk | Wed– Sun noon–3pm; 5–11pm. Closed Mon/Tue. Veg; Pre; HW £no house wine; Kids; Wh. £10 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

What was once the Bruntsfield Post Office has now been transformed into an airy oasis of tea lights and exposed stonework, chocolate brown walls and cream tablecloths. A correspondingly modern yet classic menu accompanies a stunning wine list, offering a generous number of wines by the glass. Father and daughter team Roberta and Annalisa are incredibly proud of their restaurant, and this shines through in the simplest of dishes. A starter of bruschetta is a real burst of sunshine: crisp and chewy, with a punchy, garlicky tang and oodles of tomato and basil. An

alternative of walnut tagliatelli with ricotta di bufala is mild, but far from anonymously so. It’s a generous portion – rich and satisfying, but surprisingly light. A main of risotto with hazelnut, pear and duck foie gras is well worth waiting for: welljudged, with the fruit just taking the edge off the richness of the dish. Similarly, a tagliatelli with ragu sings of simple, quality ingredients. Dessert is a little disappointing, and while a chocolate cake with cinnamon cream is fine, it seems a little anonymous after the care taken with the preceding courses. + A neighbourhood restaurant with gourmet ambitions - Not as much care has gone into the dessert selection

Santo’s Bistro

23 Canning Street, West End, EH3 8EG (Map 4: C3, 23) 0131 228 6298, santosbistro.com | Mon–Fri 7.30am–4pm. Closed Sat/Sun. Veg; HW £11.95; Kids; T/A; D. £8.50 (lunch)

In the context of the starkly oppressive high-rise offices off Lothian Road, this family-run café is a welcome retreat in which to linger over comforting daily specials or grab lunch to go. With its older sister Locanda De Gusti – one of Edinburgh’s best Italian restaurants – providing some of the food, mains are inevitably reheated to order, but are classier than standard café fare. Expect dishes such as chicken breast with sage and a buttery lemon sauce, or an extremely cheesy parmigiana, slow-cooked with layers of silky aubergine. Other offerings include pizzas, simple salads and baked potatoes. One thing certain is the enthusiasm for Italian home cooking – staff will by no means rush over the details of ingredients, preparation and origins of any dish, urging you to taste something for your own good. There is a simple selection of bought-in sweet treats in the form of cakes and tray bakes such as caramel shortcake to go with coffees, or if time allows, a glass of wine or beer. + A genuine enthusiasm for introducing you to the best of Italian comfort food - Desserts don’t match up to quality of the mains

Sprio

37/39 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge, EH3 5AH See Cafés

Strada

15 Castle Street, New Town, EH2 3AH (Map 1: C6, 58) 0131 225 2213, strada. co.uk | Mon–Sat 11.30am–11pm; Sun 11.30am–10.30pm. Veg; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Strada is the most upmarket in the range of Tragus Group restaurant chains which includes Bella Italia and Café Rouge. Situated in among the high street stores at the Princes Street end of Castle Street, it’s not an obvious target for an evening meal. Inside, however, it is stylish, clean and elegant with polished dark wood floors, grey walls and a red accent around a high-stool framed bar with a hint of 1950s American drug store about it. Differentiating itself from its sister chains, everything at Strada is made from scratch with fresh ingredients such as seafood, delivered daily. Thin and crispy garlic and rosemary pizza bread can be enjoyed while leaving room for big, soft king prawns well cooked in strong garlic, white wine and lemon or perhaps a fresh, tasty mozzarella with plum tomatoes delicately dressed with fresh basil and olive oil. Mains include a good choice of Italian staples, although a risotto verdure with a range of green veg including asparagus was bit on the salty side. Paper thin pizzas

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Edinburgh are light and doughy and include a couple of lower calorie options for the health conscious. Desserts are worth leaving room for and include a fine tiramisu and a rich fondente cacao with a melted chocolate centre. + Surpisingly stylish and welcoming interior - Careful with the seasoning

Valvona & Crolla Vincaffè

11 Multrees Walk, New Town, EH1 3DQ (Map 1: E4, 114) 0131 557 0088, vincaffe. co.uk | Sun 11am–3:30pm; Mon/Tue 9am– 9pm; Wed–Sat 9am–9:30pm. [Coffee bar: Mon–Sat 8am–9pm; Sun 11am–6pm]. LC; Veg; Pre; HW £17; Kids; Wh; T/A. £21 (lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Valvona & Crolla’s Vincaffe is only a short distance but several years away from the densely packed cornucopia of the familyrun business’s original branch on Elm Row. With a bright, contemporary décor, evenly spaced, white dressed tables and a bank of high windows facing out onto the upmarket monotone of Multrees Walk, this is the very definition of a modern Italian. While the venue could be accused of leaning towards the anonymous, the food really is anything but; within this modern exterior, there beats the warm heart of the Mediterranean. Open with the grilled sardines – served with a salsa verde, crisp, chewy bread and a dash of lemon, these are precisely pitched – light and fresh as a summer’s morning, the edges slightly caught and redolent of a balmy night’s barbecue. Mains range from a dark, unctuous lentil and sausage combination enlivened with a lightning fork of sweet, red horseradish jam to a mammoth vegetable frittata that almost, but not quite, dwarfs the rustic wooden board it’s served on. The dessert menu is contrastingly small but perfectly formed, much like the torta di cioccolato. + Cooking with heart and soul - Vegetables with the main course count as an extra

Valvona & Crolla Caffè Bar

MEXICAN Edinburgh has long had something of a love affair with Mexican food, with some local eateries now well into their second decade. Each offers something different, from a quick enchilada or burrito to go to a three-course meal with margaritas. From the old favourites of nachos, burritos and quesadillas to tear-inducing deep fried chillies, subtle slowcooked stews and spicy sweet salsas there is something here for everyone. Reviewer: Tracey Reilly

The Blue Parrot Cantina

49 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge, EH3 5AH (Map 1: B3, 27) 0131 225 2941 | Tue–Thu 5–10pm; Fri 5–11pm; Sat noon– 11pm; Sun 5–10pm. Closed Mon. Veg; BYOB (£5; wine only); HW £12.30; Kids; T/A. £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Tucked away downstairs, this cosy basement cantina has been serving the residents of Stockbridge for almost 20 years. The open plan kitchen is the first sight to greet you as you enter; once into the dining room the mood is simple and stripped back with bare wooden tables and chairs and candles fixed to the walls. For starters, choose from nachos, stuffed chillies or perhaps the home-made tortilla chips with a choice of six different dips including a smoky chipotle salsa. To follow, a standout main course of baked haddock in a jalapeno and coriander sauce topped with lime breadcrumbs might provoke an attack of order envy from across the table and goes beautifully with the fresh lime and mint of a mojito cocktail. Although outshone by the fish, pork carnitas – cooked with orange and cumin and served with pico de gallo

salsa – are moist and flavoursome. For desserts choose from pecan pie or fudge cake or venture into new territory with some boozy ice-cream and liqueur concoctions, sorbet or even a deep-fried fruit chimichanga. + Good blend of traditional and more unusual dishes - Sorbet a bit on the grainy side

Illegal Jack’s

113–117 Lothian Road, West End, EH3 9AN (Map 4: D3, 50) 0131 622 7499, illegaljacks.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm. Veg; HW £13.50; Wh; T/A. £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Opened in 2009, Illegal Jack’s aims to provide fresh, healthy, speedily delivered tex-mex food on a takeaway or sit-in basis. There are a range of seating options from upholstered booths to bench tables and food is ordered counter-service style. The menu is relatively limited with the owners preferring to build a reputation for delivering simple things well. There are tortilla chips and dips, mini haggis quesadillas or chicken wings for starters and the cajun spiced wings prove to be moist, spicy and tender. Fajitas appear on the obligatory sizzling platter, served with a choice of meat and mild, roasted or hot salsa. The marinated chicken is sweet and tangy while the beef (a bavette steak) has a pleasantly smoky chipotle flavour but is perhaps a little on the chewy side. A tasty pork quesadilla comes with sweet pinto beans, meltingly soft BBQ pork and cheese. Roasted salsa brings out the sweetness of the filling, although those that like their food spicy should opt for the hot salsa to take the heat up a notch. + Does what it sets out to do well - Menu relatively limited

Los Cardos

281 Leith Walk, Leith, EH6 8PD (Map 1: H2, off) 0131 555 6619, loscardos.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–9pm; Fri/Sat noon–10pm.

19 Elm Row, Leith Walk, New Town, EH7 4AA See Cafés

✱ HITLIST MEXICAN ✱ Miro’s Cantina Mexicana Cheerful service, strong flavours and a menu that extends beyond culinary clichés. Veg; T/A; D. £7.50 (lunch) / £7.50 (dinner)

Los Cardos is on a mission to persuade us that Mexican-style street food can be fast, healthy and fresh. Offering either sit-in or takeaway meals, the compact menu allows customers to build their own dinner. Start with a choice of styles (burrito, quesadilla or soft taco), add a choice of filling (vegetarian, meat based or even haggis) and then a range of toppings (including several salsas, sour cream or guacamole). The chatty staff are happy to advise if you are struggling to decide on the best combination. This pick and mix approach allows diners to indulge individual eating preferences and create food that is packed with layers of contrasting flavours and

Blue Parrot Cantina

Zucca

15–17 Grindlay Street, West End, EH3 9AX (Map 4: D3, 43) 0131 221 9323, zuccarestaurant.co.uk | Tue–Thu noon– 2.30pm, 5–9pm; Fri/Sat noon–2.30pm, 5–10.30pm. Closed Sun & Mon (except if performance at Usher Hall/Lyceum). [Café open Tue–Sat 11am–late.] LC; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £9.95 (set lunch) / £17.50 (dinner)

Adjoining the Royal Lyceum, Zucca is an obvious target for pre or post-theatre diners, with the ground floor café serving sandwiches and deli snacks until late, and the upstairs dining room offering hearty dishes which fuse Italian and Scottish flavours and ingredients. As well as the usual antipasti and bruschetta, starters include a generous portion of pig’s head terrine served with spiced apple chutney and West Coast scallops wrapped in pancetta. Of the substantial selection of risottos and pastas, their signature is a bowl of fresh potato gnocchi with slow cooked duck, pistachios and sweet root vegetables and a flavoursome yet comforting broth. Although there are no vegetarian dishes besides carb-heavy options, lighter fish dishes include poached sea bass with caponata vegetables, complemented with a side of herby roast potatoes. If there’s time to squeeze in something sweet before the curtain rises, the mandarin panna cotta will go particularly well with one of the restaurant’s many dessert liqueurs. + Perfect for the theatre - Not such a buzz when there isn’t a show on

49 St Stephen Street

Stockbridge

0 1 3 1 2 25 29 4 1 Serving authentic Mexican dishes & superb Margaritas since 1993.

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Edinburgh textures. Los Cardos aims to blend Mexican and Scots influences and the tasty haggis burrito epitomises this culinary fusion. Citrus-chilli chicken quesadilla is also full of flavour, especially when teamed with guacamole and spicy salsa verde. Those who want it hot should opt for the extra hot red salsa. If you fancy a pint with dinner, on Sundays customers can take meals back to the nearby Victoria pub. + They’re right. The haggis burrito really does work - Small menu

Mariachi

7 Victoria Street, Old Town, EH1 2HE (Map 2: C3, 39) 0131 623 0077, mariachirestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–11pm; Sun 2–10pm. Veg; HW £13.50; Kids. £15.50 (lunch) / £15.50 (dinner)

With room for 120 diners this fatherand-son-run operation can pack in the punters. The dining space divides into several areas and staff work the floor efficiently. Walls are painted terracotta, sombreros hang above the bar and there is Mariachi music on the stereo. Starters slant toward the deep-fried and chilli freaks should opt for the whole crispy stuffed chillies, while more unusual offerings include prawns or mussels in spicy white wine sauces. For mains, the standard tortilla-based options are supplemented by a selection of texmex style burgers and steaks. Chicken chimichanga is crispy on the outside, moist on the inside and comes with plenty of salsa, guacamole and sour cream. The arroz con carne has flavour although a muted chilli kick. While desserts don’t stray too far from the beaten track their layered ice cream cake with cinnamon, biscuit and chocolate provides a welcome palate cleanser at the end of a meal. + Service is personal and professional - Flavours may be on the mild side for some

✱

Miro’s Cantina Mexicana

184 Rose Street, New Town, EH2 4BA (Map 1: B6, 50) 0131 225 4376, miroscantinamexicana.com | Mon–Sun noon–10.30pm. [Jan & Feb: closed 2.30–5.30pm].

Veg; HW £11.95; Kids; T/A. £12 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

The atmosphere at Miro’s is bright and cheery and the welcome from staff is warm. The décor reflects the colours of the Mexican flag and candles twinkle on brightly clad tables. Those looking for the usual suspects will find enchiladas, fajitas and nachos all present and correct but it is well worth looking beyond these. More adventurous options include salads, spiced grilled fish and slow cooked meats. Chicken cooked in a Monterey sauce of cheese, bacon and peppers is richly satisfying and goes well with one of several crisp Mexican lagers available. A special of taco de carne contains tender chunks of seared beef which are still pleasantly pink in the middle. Deserts return to more familiar territory –think pecan pie and fudge cake. With its wideranging menu and cosy vibe Miro’s is more than just a convenient place to grab a bite before or after hitting one of the area’s nearby pubs. + A menu that promises – and delivers – much more than the basics - Tables too close together for privacy

Pancho Villa’s

240 Canongate, Old Town, EH8 8AB (Map 2: E3, 111) 0131 557 4416, panchovillas.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon– 2pm, 6–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–10.30pm; Sun 5–10pm. HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £13.50 (lunch) / £17.50 (dinner)

Pancho Villa’s likes to pride itself on catering for any celebration whether it be a romantic anniversary or a hen or stag party. Despite a smattering of stray sombreros there is a welcome lack of kitsch knick knacks or gimmicks; it’s clear that Pancho Villa’s prefers to rely on helpful, accommodating service and well-cooked and seasoned food to create an impression. To begin, various sharing platters make choosing starters for groups a breeze. Battered jalapeno chillies stuffed with cheese have a crisp bite followed by mouth-watering heat and the chilli con carne quesadilla has a well-rounded taste and more than the usual hint of spice. Main courses range from nachos and burritos to a satisfyingly tasty vegetarian tortilla stuffed with butter beans, mushrooms and cheese. A barbacoa consisting of three tortillas stuffed with tender garlic and chilli marinated lamb arrives with rice and salsas and is generous enough to satisfy the heartiest of appetites. If you have sufficient room left after all that, be sure to sample the crispy churros doughnuts dusted with cinnamon and sugar. + Wide-ranging menu and food packed with flavour - Can be noisy if you encounter one of those parties

Sabor Criollo

36 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge, EH4 1LY See Round the World

Tex Mex II

64 Thistle Street, New Town, EH2 1EN (Map 1: C5, 82) 0131 260 9699, texmex2. com | Mon–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–10.30pm; Sun 1–10pm. Veg; HW £14.25. £8.50 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

On entering Tex Mex II first impressions are of a colourful and compact space and it may take a moment before you can drag your eyes away from the slightly mesmerising pink, purple and lime colour-scheme to look at the menu. A frozen margarita and some complimentary spicy popcorn help soothe the senses while you settle in and it’s fun to watch the staff expertly weaving between tables bearing fajita

platters alight with a theatrical flourish of flaming tequila. For appetisers, heat seekers will be drawn to the spicy, crispy battered chillies stuffed with cheese; more unusual choices include crab flautas or a ceviche of marinated fish. Main courses take in a range of tortilla based dishes along with burgers, steak or tuna tex-mex style. Pork chimichanga comes properly crispy on the outside, filled with tender pork and slathered in cheese, salsa and guacamole. Burrito filled with pork and beef in a mild chilli sauce has a satisfying depth of flavour. For afters, a dark Mexican torta (think chocolate fudge cake) or zesty key lime pie rounds a meal off nicely. + Lively atmosphere and well-priced frozen margaritas - Some tables very close together

Viva Mexico

41 Cockburn Street, Old Town, EH1 1BS (Map 2: D3, 12) 0131 226 5145, viva-mexico.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 6–10.30pm; Sat noon–10.30pm; Sun 6–10pm. Veg; BYOB; HW £13.50; Kids; T/A. £7.95 (set lunch) / £16.50 (dinner)

In existence for 28 years, Viva Mexico – run by the Gonzalez family – is the grand-daddy of Edinburgh’s Mexican restaurants. Inside, kitsch abounds with pictures of hirsute horsemen and Mexican puppet dolls staring down from the walls. There are plenty of Mexican beers to choose from, Mexican wine on the wine list and numerous cocktails available to quench a thirst. A plato nacional – mixed starter platter for two – allows preliminary grazing on corn chips, dips, quesadillas and tortilla wrapped meats. Of the dips, the pico de gallo salsa with a hefty coriander and dried chilli kick is a standout choice. Main courses can be a little hit and miss. Pork chimichanga is tender and well-flavoured with salsa verde but could be crisper on the outside while a chicken enchilada de mole has a disappointingly thin, overly sweet sauce which fails to bring together the other ingredients. Desserts are a welcome return to form. Flan especial (baked caramel custard) has a smooth creamy texture and a rich chocolate chilli cheesecake with a dense biscuit base packs a huge flavour and chilli hit. + The flan especial - Main accompaniments look and taste tired

TIPList FOR PIZZA

NORTH AMERICAN North American restaurants tend to cater for appetites as big as the continent itself, with towering burgers, slabs of steak, rich milkshakes and gooey desserts abounding in these establishments, along with a generous helping of conviviality. But among the homely diners, smart burger bars and hearty steak houses there are smatterings of Tex Mex influences, Californian fusion cooking and some fine wines awaiting curious diners. Reviewers: Karyn Millar, Steve Morton

Amore Dogs

104 Hanover Street, New Town, EH2 1DR See Italian

✱

Bell’s Diner

7 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge, EH3 5AN (Map 1: B3, 24) 0131 225 8116 | Sun– Fri 6–10pm; Sat noon–10.15pm. HW £11.95; T/A. £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

If your restaurant is really only serving two things, you’d better make sure you do those things well. Bell’s Diner has been doing steak and burgers well for over 40 years and there are no signs of things changing. Behind its anonymous exterior, there’s a relaxed, familiar feel to this Stockbridge institution with almost a coffee shop vibe going on. No one is really coming here for the starters, and given the eating challenge that the main courses present, you’d be best served moving straight to the action. Outstanding burgers come in three sizes with a range of toppings and butters including garlic, mustard and Roquefort while slabs of perfectly cooked steak vie for plate space with a mountain of crisply cooked chips and fresh, undressed salad. Odds are you won’t make it to dessert but if the chatty, personable staff persuade you, pancakes and ice cream are a great closer to the meal and won’t break the bank. + Contending for the best burgers in Edinburgh - Don’t waste time or stomach space on the starters

Buffalo Grill

• Anima Italian soul food in the New Town 98 • BrewDog Edinburgh Snazzy snacks for iconoclastic beer drinkers 21 • La Favorita Scorching wood-ﬁred ovens 99 • Mamma’s American Pizza Company Mindboggling toppings and chewy bases 82 • Origano Thin, crispy and big, big, big 78 • Peter’s Yard A new line from the Meadows’s master bakers 52

• 12–14 Chapel Street, Old Town, EH8 9AY (Map 2: D5, 69) 0131 667 7427, buffalogrill.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 6–10.30pm; Sat 5.30–10.30pm; Sun 5–10.15pm. BYOB (£1). £13 (lunch) / £18 (dinner) • 1 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge, EH4 1HU (Map 1: A3, 18) 0131 332 3864, buffalogrill.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon– 2.30pm, 6–10.30pm; Fri noon–2.30pm, 6–11pm; Sat noon–4pm, 5–11pm; Sun noon–4pm, 5–10.30pm. BYOB (£1; wine only); HW £12; Kids (under 5). £11 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Pictures of the big beasts may decorate the walls but no, you won’t find buffalo meat on the grill here. However, there are plenty of other options available on the surprisingly wide-ranging menu from this veteran of the Stockbridge dining scene (together with its unlicensed sister restaurant near the university on Chapel Street). There are over a dozen starters including excellent shrimp tempura with a sweet and piquant sauce, flavour-packed spicy

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Edinburgh blackened chicken wings and salsa de carne dip which comes with a generous portion of tortilla chips. As you’d expect from their name, the speciality is steak and a plate-filling Boston cut is juicy and well cooked. Meaty jambalaya is also a success but ranchero stir fry, which adds tender chicken and bacon to strips of beef, lacks its promised kick of spice. Only those with a truly sweet tooth should attempt the toffee dime bar cake for dessert; by comparison a delicious special of sticky toffee pudding served with vanilla ice cream seems like the healthy option. BYOB is available in both venues but the Stockbridge restaurant’s short wine list is well thought out and competitively priced, leaning towards bigger reds. + Service is quick and smiley - Ask them to hold the salad – it’s on every main and you’ll be missing nothing

✱

Calistoga

70 Rose Street North Lane, City Centre, EH2 3DX (Map 1: C6, 67) 0131 225 1233, calistoga.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5–10pm; Sun 12.30pm–2.30pm, 5–10pm. Pre; HW £12.50; Kids. £12 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Tucked away behind Rose Street, Calistoga’s insalubrious location belies a welcoming, chic bistro that aims to bring a little Californian sunshine to Edinburgh. Posters of vineyards on the cream-coloured walls declare the restaurant’s passion for wine; indeed, incorporating its own wine shop and boasting an extensive wine list marked up by only £5 above the retail value, this is great-value destination dining for

grape lovers. Informal yet informative wine-tasting dinners are also a boon and the food, too, is appealing. Many American-style restaurants concentrate on burgers and steaks, and Calistoga’s mix-and-match grill menu caters to this convention, offering sirloin on the bone, chicken breast and tuna with a selection of sauces, including peppercorn and Californian brandy. However, the rest of the menu’s outlook is rather more international, reflecting Californian fusion cuisine. To start, delicate ravioli encloses a robust zinfandel-braised lamb filling, while strongly flavoured bourbon-soused herring is invigorating. Nodding to Mexican influences, flat-iron steak with chocolate and chilli butter is rich, melting and decadent, and desserts of pannacotta with rhubarb sorbet and chocolate and honeycomb tart round off proceedings with aplomb. + Will bring sunshine into wine lovers’ lives - Back-alley location initially seems a far cry from the sunshine and surf

Diner 7

7 Commercial Street, Leith, EH6 6JA (Map 5: C3, 19) 0131 553 0624, diner7. co.uk | Mon–Sat 4–10.30pm; Sun 11am– 10.30pm. Veg; HW £12.75; Kids; Wh; T/A. £14 (dinner)

Leith certainly has its fair share of restaurants, but in among the fine dining and the seafood platters it would be an oversight to miss the narrow entrance to this laid-back burger and steak specialist. Inside it’s simply decorated (if you discount the motorbike mounted above

the kitchen), prettily lit and the booth seating reinforces its diner credentials. Although the range of starters is short, crisply cooked calamari and a special of chicken tikka both kick things off well. A falafel burger from the speciality section is more than just a token veggie option, though the superbly juicy Scottish beef burger probably eclipses it. There’s an imaginative range of toppings available including jalapeno salsa, mushrooms and garlic butter, and you can choose to double up to a massive 12oz on the classic burgers. Desserts are listed on a board to the rear of the room and the sticky toffee pudding is so good you may find yourself regretting going large on the main course. + Burger and topping combinations that really work - Your gossip won’t stay secret for long at the closely spaced tables – try to grab a booth

Gourmet Burger Kitchen

137 George Street, New Town, EH2 4JY (Map 1: B6, 54) 0131 260 9896, gbk. co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm. HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The wide-ranging burger menu – from conventional beef to lamb and even buffalo – suggests that Gourmet Burger Kitchen is all ready to deliver on its name’s promise. And indeed, their textbook cheeseburger, a wellconstructed panko-crumbed chicken burger with bacon and avocado is a tasty offering, further elevated by rosemary-flecked shoestring fries dipped in delicious basil mayo. Additionally, vegetarians are better served than in many other burger joints, with a sweet potato, aubergine and red pepper burger among the attractive options. Yet the anonymous surroundings and quasi self-service system undermine the gourmet label: queuing up to order has more in common with fast-food outlets than GBK’s high-end George Street location, and long delays can occur at busy times. Also, there are no starters as such; instead, rather expensive ‘while you wait’ side dishes, like halloumi bites, are offered. Dessert is also something of a let-down: the burger-focused chain clearly doesn’t expect it be a priority for diners, but you’d be entitled to hope for a bit more effort being put into the options than ice-cream and frozen yogurt served in cardboard tubs straight from the freezer. + Wide-ranging choice of burgers and toppings - Expensive sides and dips push up the bill

✱ HITLIST NORTH AMERICAN ✱ Bell’s Diner Enjoy what are perhaps Edinburgh’s best burgers in this relaxed, friendly Stockbridge diner. ✱ Calistoga A ray of sunshine just behind Rose Street, Calistoga’s intriguing Californian cuisine and selection of fine wines is well worth seeking out. and wilted spinach. The Classic NYC beef burger smothered in fried onions is robust, peppery and almost obscenely meaty, and the Times Square – tender Cajun chicken breast topped with fluffy onion rings and oozing Swiss cheese – is very good. An average ice-cream sundae feels like something of a let-down afterwards, but not to worry – fittingly, burgers are where Hamburger Heaven really shines. + Hamburger heaven - Less-than-divine desserts

Hamburger Heaven

36 Broughton Street, New Town, EH1 3SB (Map 1: F3, 128) 0131 556 2788 | Mon–Fri 5–10pm; Sat/Sun 11am–10pm. HW £11.95; Kids. £9.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Calistoga: keeping the California dream alive in Edinburgh

With a vibrant New York City street scene overlooking a simple but comfortable dining space, Hamburger Heaven aims to bring a little bit of Manhattan to Broughton Street – and largely succeeds, thanks to its buzzy, informal vibe. Though it shares a kitchen (and loos) with parent venue the Blue Moon Café, burgers and American diner staples are the order of the day, with corn on the cob and lip-tinglingly spicy chicken wings accompanied by barbeque sauce making fine starters. However, the main draw is the appealing selection of burgers, such as the intriguing Bloody Manhattan (a beef patty smothered in home-made Bloody Mary sauce) and the Staten Island, made from spiced lamb combined with mango chutney The List Eating & Drinking Guide 81

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Edinburgh Hard Rock Café

20 George Street, New Town, EH2 2PF (Map 1: D5, 102) 0131 260 3000, hardrock. com | Sun–Thu noon–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–11.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–1am.] HW £15.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £23 (lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Some restaurants are all about the expectation game. Launched in London over 40 years ago, the Hard Rock has since exported its rather cookie cutter approach all over the world, but should you go in expecting generous portions of decent, if rather uninspired, ‘Southern’ style American cooking served to a blaring rock soundtrack there is plenty to enjoy. A big point is made of the on-site smoker and the hickory-smoked chicken wings are tasty, though even the ‘HeavyMetal’ extra spicy version could do with more punch. Also from the smoker is the pulled pork sandwich, a rich if slightly sweet take on this southern staple. The extensive list of burgers is based around a hearty 10oz patty, although it is the well seasoned, crisp, fries that stand out. Unfortunately both dishes are let down by the buns which are slightly undersized and overwhelmed by their fillings. The staff and walls alike are festooned with rock memorabilia and while the high octane American-style service sounds a little odd in a Scottish accent, but it’s undeniably slick. + Cracking, crispy french fries - Ducking out of the way as tourists photograph the memorabilia

Illegal Jack’s

113–117 Lothian Road, West End, EH3 9AN See Mexican

Katie’s Diner

12 Barclay Terrace, Southside, EH10 4HP (Map 3: B2, 17) 0131 229 1394, katiesdiner.com | Tue–Thu 6–9pm; Fri/Sat 6–9.30pm. Closed Sun/Mon. BYOB (£2; wine only); HW £8.95. £17 (dinner)

Katie’s Diner, Kate and Geoff Ness’s friendly neighbourhood eatery, has been satisfying Bruntsfield locals for more than a decade now and it’s easy to see why: its small but welcoming interior, filled with an eclectic mix of bric-a-brac and photos of American landscapes, feels like a home from home – but it’s well worth coming from further afield to sample its delights.

TIPList FOR BURGERS • Amore Dogs Slick sliders with a New York state of mind 76 • Bell’s Diner Old hands with a sure touch on the grill 80 • City Café All-American diner serving juicy Scottish meat 23 • Diner 7 Top toppings and meaty meals 81 • Holyrood 9A Both hands needed for these chunky offerings 27 • Wannaburger Fast food with a local heart and soul 82

Enjoyable starters include the hot and spicy bite of ‘prawn demons’ and crispyskinned chicken wings with barbeque sauce, but it’s the fine choice of steaks and burgers that show off the diner’s true worth. A well-seasoned medium-rare rib-eye steak slathered in pungent garlic butter and a beef burger topped with rich brandy and peppercorn sauce are winners, showing off both the quality of ingredients and Katie’s cooking. Savoury crispy onions, creamy coleslaw and fries on the side complete both dishes. It might be a challenge after devouring the mains, but be sure to leave room for the pecan pie, served with rich vanilla ice cream, maple syrup and a dollop of sheer indulgence. + Spot-on pecan pie - A lone vegeburger is the only option for vegetarians

Mamma’s American Pizza Company

30 Grassmarket, Old Town, EH1 2JU (Map 2: B4, 46) 0131 225 6464, mammas. co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–midnight. LC; Veg; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

This Grassmarket stalwart seems to exert a gravitational pull on small to medium sized groups of both locals and tourists looking for an impromptu food stop. Starters like sweet potato fries and macho nachos are decent enough, but their function is to keep you occupied while the mains are prepared. The emphasis here is on building your own custom pizza and Mamma’s assists by offering what is probably Edinburgh’s widest range of toppings on bases ranging from 9 to 16 inches. Vegetarians seem particularly pleased with the chance to add baked beans and veggie sausage but there’s black pudding and haggis too. Bases are medium thickness but thin and crispy is an option; just make sure you let your server know early on. Non-pizza mains include lasagne and Cajun salmon but spicy meatballs lack seasoning, taste and, indeed, spice. If you make it to desserts (boxing pizza remnants is always a possibility) try the baked cheesecake with ice cream courtesy of Di Rollo’s in Musselburgh. + A mind boggling array of pizza toppings - Spicy dishes don’t live up to their billing

McKirdy’s Steakhouse

151 Morrison Street, West End, EH3 8AG See Scottish

The New York Steam Packet

31 Rose Street Lane North, New Town, EH2 2NP (Map 1: D5, 73) 0131 220 4825, newyorksteampacket.co.uk | Mon–Thu 5–11pm; Fri/Sat 6–8pm, 8:15–10:15pm. Closed Sun. Veg; BYOB (£1 per person). £Mon–Thu £14; Fri/Sat £15.95 (set dinner)

There’s probably some money to made by standing on Rose Street and directing lost diners to this almost invisible restaurant, hidden down an alley and then up a steep spiral staircase. It feels more like a treehouse than a restaurant and the boisterous party atmosphere inside only reinforces the feeling that you’re disconnected from the world down below. The BYOB policy and an option to select your own music (BYOM?) if you’re a large enough group further fuel the excitement. The three-course set menu is short and functional. The mussels are a better start than the potato skins and for mains there is a decent if slightly overdone sirloin steak or a straightforward salmon fillet. Desserts of pecan pie and chocolate fudge cake round the meal off well, though better to have them cold than hot. This small,

friendly restaurant and has been here for forty-plus years so it’s doing something right. If you’re looking for a relaxed city centre venue to host a group of friends or colleagues, then get your compass out, print off the map and follow your ears. + A fun place for larger groups on a budget - The single toilet is basic

Smoke Stack

53–55 Broughton Street, New Town, EH1 3RJ (Map 1: F3, 132) 0131 556 6032, smokestack.org.uk | Mon–Thu noon– 2.30pm, 5–10pm; Fri noon–11pm; Sat 11am–11pm; Sun noon–10pm. Pre; HW £13.95; Kids. £7.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

A meat-lovers’ mecca since 1996, Smoke Stack reinforces its menu’s focus on beef with its spartan interior, the deepcrimson walls visually echoing the shade of a quiveringly rare fillet steak. While there are salads, fajitas and a few vegetarian options, such as a spicy bean burger, house specialities are hamburgers and steaks, sourced from John Gilmour and Sons in the Borders. Choose from attractively char-grilled fillet, sirloin, rib-eye or rump (the latter cut differently depending on how you want it cooked – what they call a ‘Boston cut’), each presented alone on the plate with just a splash of sauce, from the familiar pepper or blue cheese options to rich Drambuie and mushroom. A bacon cheeseburger is simple but delivers on flavour and texture, as do generous sides of crisp fries and battered onion rings. Filling starters include a bijou bowl of warming chilli con carne and a slightly chewy calamari with garlic mayonnaise. In the unlikely event you can fit in dessert, rib-sticking favourites like banoffee pie and rich, dense chocolate brownies served with S. Luca ice-cream might tip you over the edge. + Reliably good steaks and burgers - Few surprises on a somewhat dated menu

Tex Mex II

64 Thistle Street, New Town, EH2 1EN See Mexican

Wannaburger

7–8 Queensferry Street, West End, EH2 4PA (Map 4: C1, 11) 0131 220 0036, wannaburger.com | Mon–Fri 8am–10pm; Sat/Sun 9am–10pm. BYOB (£2; wine only); HW £10.95; Kids; T/A. £8 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

Wanna burger? Then head down to the West End for belly-filling burgers, hot dogs, milkshakes and ice-cream sundaes. Make no mistake: fine dining this is not, but if what you’re looking for is superior fast food of a quality and price that put the chains to shame, then Wannaburger is the place to be. High counters, stools and simple tables and chairs don’t encourage lingering over your meal, but then again grabbing a quick bite is fast food’s *3raison d’être, and the freshlooking interior is fit for purpose. Order at counter, grab one of the few dinerstyle booths (if you’re lucky), wait for an electronic tag to vibrate then collect your food, neatly served in eco-friendly packaging on steel trays. A juicy doublecheeseburger cooked medium-pink served in fluffy freshly baked bun is a world away from other fast-food joints, and a Cajun whole-breast chicken burger coated with hot spices packs a punch. Fries and onion rings, soft on the inside and crisp on the out, complete a satisfying meal. An interesting selection of drinks, including Black Isle Brewery beers on draught and Fentiman’s ginger beer, is a bonus. + Superior fast food that exceeds expectations of the genre - Wot no free toys?

ROUND the WORLD The globe-trotting foodie can explore a cosmopolitan coterie of countries and cuisines in Edinburgh. Seek culinary adventure and your rich reward will be a kaleidoscopic tour taking in traditional cuisine from the Middle East to South America. Adjectives such as ‘interesting’ and ‘atmospheric’ abound and there’s often a good story behind places, happily told by proud owners showcasing the cookery of their homeland. Frequent opportunities to bring your own bottle make for cheap trips to your chosen destination, so get out there and see the world. Reviewers: Claire Sawers, James Tiedeman

Beirut MIDDLE EAST 24 Nicolson Square, Southside, EH8 9BX (Map 2: D5, 82) 0131 667 9919, beirutrestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–11pm. Veg; BYOB (£3; £1 per person for beer); Wh; T/A. £6.50 (one course set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

In the mini Middle Eastern pocket growing around Edinburgh’s Mosque, which began with Kebab Mahal and Jordan Valley and continues with the newly added Mosque Kitchen and Nawroz, Beirut adds Lebanese food to the mix. Owner Ahmed Saadi opened in 2010, and after tweaking the format (belly dancers have come and gone, outdoor shisha pipes are now available to smoke under heated umbrellas) he’s slowly gathering a following. The sharing mezze platter is a good starting point: baba ghanouj, hummus and tabbouleh sit alongside makanek (home-made Lebanese sausages with pine nuts) and jawaneh (marinated garlic chicken wings). For mains, gently seasoned shawarma lamb comes with rice and sesame seed sauce, samaka harra combines baked fish with a Meditteranean spicy ratatouille, or there is okra stew or aubergine moussaka for vegetarians. Keeping suppliers local, halal meat comes from the butcher around the corner on Potterrow, and daily fish deliveries arrive from up the road on Clerk Street. Peppermint teabags (rather than fresh mint) seem a disappointing accompaniment to the delicious, made-onthe-premises baklava, but all in all, Saadi runs his restaurant with commitment, and the service bends over backwards to show it. + Some insights to the delights of Lebanese food - Quiet nights can lack atmosphere

Brazilian Sensation AMERICAS 117–119 Buccleuch Street, Southside, EH8 9NG (Map 3: G2, 50) 0131 667 0400, braziliansensation.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–4pm [6–10pm by reservation]. Closed Sun. Veg; BYOB (no charge). £7 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Open since 1998, this Brazilian restaurant in the Southside has been helping the people of Edinburgh delude themselves – despite any cold temperatures or grey skies – that they are in fact somewhere tropical, where the sun shines and the dancing never stops. Run by John Falconer and his Brazilian wife Lucia

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Edinburgh it’s a fun and laid-back place to try (or rediscover) the food of Brazil, surrounded by bright blue and yellow walls, with fiesta music playing. Small dishes, including torta de beringela (aubergine pie), bolinha de bacalhau (smoked fish croquette) and a speciality sandwich – home-made passion fruit jam and cheese on a baguette – are available at lunchtimes, while larger sweet potato and ginger curries, black bean stews and haddock and coconut dishes are served in the evening. The freshly squeezed tropical juices (£2.50, and deliciously intense) are recommended, as are the home-made fruit ice-creams (£3.50). The owner’s award-winning jams are also on sale (acai, banana and passion fruit, ‘caja’ plum are a few of the flavours) and are full of zesty sweetness. The restaurant’s small size lends itself well to small groups of up to 30, and for £20 a head they offer three courses, with optional samba lessons too. + Delicious home-made ice creams - No wi-fi

✱ HITLIST ROUND THE WORLD ✱ Frankfurter Eck Tiny, gloriously unpolished gem showcasing proper German cuisine that’s well on the way to achieving its aim with tenderly executed home cooking.

Café Truva TURKISH • 251–253 Canongate, Old Town, EH8 8BQ • 46–52 Lady Lawson Street, Tollcross, EH3 9DW • 77 The Shore, Leith, EH6 6RG See Cafés

✱ Hanam’s Superior showcase of Kurdish and Middle Eastern cuisine produced with pride and passion, served in suitably mesmeric surroundings.

Circus

✱ Turkish Kitchen Arguably the best Turkish restaurant in town does the business across the board, from post-pub kebab to gargantuan banquet of traditional dishes.

MIDDLE EAST 8 St Mary’s Street, Old Town, EH1 1SU (Map 2: E3, 104) 0131 556 6963, circusbistro.com | Mon–Sun 8am–11pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–1am.] Veg; Pre/Post. £8 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

The stone-walled courtyard in the back of this Old Town café/ restaurant

Indaba (page 84): a round-the-world restaurant in a single venue

EDINBURGH'S KURDISH & MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT

• Open 7 days 12 noon to late • Private dining area • Outdoor terraced seating • Dedicated Shisha area • Regular special events

• Fixed price lunch deal • Loyalty card scheme • 10% Student discount • New indoor Shisha Bar • Extensive Dry Bar and BYOB policy

3 Johnston Terrace, Edinburgh, EH1 2PW (just beside Edinburgh Castle) T: 0131 225 1329 or 07888 677 613 2011 010 and 2 , 9 0 0 E: hanams@hotmail.co.uk Guide 2 ants’

www.hanams.com

ing aur & Drink dle East rest g in t a ist E 's top 5 Mid d: The L in egraph Hitliste ‘One of Brita The Tel

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Edinburgh is a mini sun-trap in the summer, and a good spot for enjoying some calm while the High Street might be getting unpleasantly hectic with crowds. Circus is run by the same folks who run Empires, further down the street, and the Turkish/ Middle Eastern theme runs through the menu, which covers mezze platters of halloumi, hummus and stuffed vine leaves, as well as their own delicately seasoned lemon chicken, risotto, chickpea and coconut curry, spicy lentil soup, burgers and sandwiches. Home-made cakes and baklava are also available for the sweet-toothed. It’s a bright, relaxed place to hang out, with chunky wooden tables and colourful Turkish lamps, although the service can occasionally suffer at peak times. They’ve recently started running arts events in the evenings from 9pm – inviting guests from nearby Canongate Books and the Scottish Poetry Library to run literary nights, as well as dance workshops and live music. + Getting a sunny spot in the courtyard - Slow service at rush hours

Empires TURKISH 24 St Mary’s Street, Old Town, EH1 1SU (Map 2: E3, 108) 0131 466 0100, empirescafe.co.uk | Mon–Thu 5–11pm; Fri–Sun noon–3pm, 5–11pm. Veg; BYOB (£3; 50p beer); Kids. £15.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

There’s a dark, exotic, Aladdin’s Cave feel to Empires – a one-off kind of place that has walls covered with Middle Eastern fabrics and tiles, multicoloured globe lamps dangling from the ceiling, and an upstairs seating area full of scatter cushions, Persian rugs and ornately carved wood. The menu is Turkish – with traditional aubergine and creamy yoghurt dips, dolme, halloumi, olives, falafel, kofte meatballs, and moussaka available to share, tapas-style, or more substantial mains served with salad and flatbreads. It’s been popular since it opened in 2005, and has always had a shabby chic charm. Although it was starting to look a bit rough around the edges, a recent tidy-up to the paint and décor has neatened things up again. It’s BYOB and if you’re planning on eating there

mid-week, it’s best to book, as it often fills up with book groups, lovers of very strong coffee (their Turkish coffee is not for the faint-hearted) or people who’ve come to listen to the occasional live folk/ Greek music nights they put on. + Eating your dinner on a magic carpet - Fills up fast

✱ Frankfurter Eck GERMAN

62 Elm Row, Leith, EH7 4AQ (Map 1: H2, 153) 0131 629 5784, frankfurtereck. com | Tue–Fri noon–9pm; Sat 10am– 10pm; Sun 10am–6pm. Closed Mon. BYOB (no charge); T/A. £10 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

German food can suffer from people’s unfair preconceptions. Seek out Edinburgh’s first German restaurant, Frankfurter Eck to have these prejudices overturned. Behind a blink-and-you’ll miss it frontage on an unlikely block is a basic interior with minimal décor. It’s not a place to see-and-be-seen, but what it lacks in glamour it makes up for in quality home-cooked German food with excellent service to match. Just a curtain separates diners from the kitchen where chef Joseph Kuouh conjures up dishes such as sauerbrauten, lusciously-marinated beef pot roast, and jӓgerschnitzel or ‘hunter style’ pork. Yes, it’s comfort food, but to call it simply meat and potatoes does it no justice at all. The same applies to sides of satisfying dumplings and spӓtzle – familiar to expats from the Homeland who frequent this gem of a place along with locals discovering German cooking. Desserts include delicatelyfried apple with ‘winemousse’ froth, and slices of surprisingly light, nutty apfelstrudel. A legend on the wall says it all: ‘We welcome you as guests, but we part as friends.’ Frankfurter Eck will certainly win the affections of those who give it a go. + There’s no better introduction to German food - Premises rather basic for some tastes perhaps

Gurkha Café NEPALESE 25–27 Cockburn Street, Old Town, EH1 1BP (Map 2: C3, 10) 0131 225 2832, gurkhacafe.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–11pm. Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; T/A. £8.50 (set lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

Gurkha Café proudly showcases the cuisine of Nepal in a venue where remnants of previous tenants remain: the incongruous mock-rustic Italian terracotta tile-roofed bar now shares space with stupas and Annapurna posters. Aside from a couple of tables looking out onto Cockburn Street, there is a large dining space through the back which is rather dark apart from candles and fairy lights. As such, it’s difficult to discern much detail in what you’re eating, which is a shame. Familiar Indian and Bangladeshi dishes, from korma to rogan josh, fill out the menu but key to the healthier Nepalese version is the lack of ghee. Not that the pakoras and deep-fried ‘lollypop’ chicken wings to start seem healthy. For mains, you will probably be drawn to a ‘Nepalese super dish’ – a curry of tandoor-cooked meat in a dense, sweet sauce, served on a sizzling platter. The achari lamb is similarly rich, while roti is a suitable accompaniment. Wash the lot down with a tasty Gurkha beer and contemplate going Nepalese next time you fancy a curry. + An interesting introduction to Nepalese cookery - Lighting is a little too low

✱

Hanam’s

KURDISH 3 Johnston Terrace, Old Town, EH1 2PW (Map 2: B3, 31) 0131 225 1329, hanams. com | Mon–Sun noon–11pm. Veg; BYOB (no charge); Kids; Wh; T/A. £9.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Hanam’s is rightly revered for its Kurdish cooking. The restaurant is spread over two floors of a characterful period building, including a terrace that’s – unsurprisingly – in demand on summer days and a separate dining room that’s ideal for private gatherings. In the large space upstairs, coloured lanterns throw light across a room of reds, of silken drapes, friezes, cushions and fabric, setting the scene before you turn to the menu. The mushakal meze to start is a beguiling showcase of Kurdish treats including delightful kulicha – simply fried naan dough – which animated owner Jamal Ahmed explains is enjoyed by every Kurdish family for breakfast. There’s also kubba halab: fried sweet lamb falafel-types encased in crushed rice that recall the best deep-fried haggis balls. For mains, lamb tashreeb is a rich and wonderful casserole with a base of soaked naan bread, while gormeh sabzi is a Persian dish of lamb in spinach served with bejewelled rice with pomegranate seeds. Hopefully you’ll have room for honey-dripping sharia, and baklava – which are, thankfully, not as sweet as some – to finish. + Superb introduction to Kurdish cooking - No alcohol served so don’t forget to BYOB

Hanedan TURKISH 41 West Preston Street, Southside, EH8 9PY (Map 3: H3, 58) 0131 667 4242, hanedan.co.uk | Tue–Sun noon–3pm, 5.30pm–late. Closed Mon. BYOB (£6); HW £13; Kids. £8.95 (set lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

Ebullient head chef and owner Gursel Bahar orchestrates operations in busy, bustling Hanedan, whirling between tending meat on the grill and whipping away meze plates from delighted diners. Bahar has been turning out Turkish favourites to a loyal following since 2004 and his place is perennially popular so be sure to book. Be careful if you’re long of limb and prone to clumsiness, as this split-level treasure trove of Turkish trinkets, twinkling lights and mirrors is somewhat squashed of space. So, keep your elbows in and indulge in the lalezar, a six-dish meze including cold bean piyaz, humuz and kofte. Dip your pitta in cacik (oil-splashed minty yoghurt with cucumber) while you wait for wellgrilled, well-herbed lamb, chicken and garlic sausage in the karishik izgara. Tavuk guvech meanwhile is a curiously un-Turkish tasting stew of sautéed chicken, onion and mushrooms spiced up with paprika. Desserts are limited, and the Hanedan’s mess (a pineapple take on the Eton classic) a little less than might be desired but you can’t go wrong with honeyed baklava as a preface or accompaniment to your Turkish coffee to round things off sweetly. + Now fully licensed - Cramped conditions not conducive to comfort

Indaba AFRICAN, SOUTH AMERICAN AND SPANISH 3 Lochrin Terrace, Tollcross, EH3 9QJ (Map 3: B1, 2) 0131 221 1554, edindaba. co.uk | Tue–Thu 5–10pm; Fri/Sat 5–11pm. Closed Sun/Mon. Veg; HW £13.95; Kids. £16 (dinner)

This tapas restaurant combines the national cuisines of its owners (three, now two, after one left to have a

baby) and serves Venezuelan, South African and Spanish dishes. But that’s where the ‘fusion’ stops – there are no experimental crosses here, just a good selection of home cooking from the three countries. So antelope fillets sit alongside boquerones (pickled anchovies) and costillas de cerdo (baked pork ribs with honey, chilli and tomato) and prawns might be served as sosaties (Cape Malay spiced skewers), gambas pil pil (prawns in a chilli and tomato sauce) or with plantain and avocado. To say the host is warm is putting it mildly: a customer squinting to see the specials board on the night The List visited was loaned owner Charlton Kühn’s glasses for a better look. Simple explanations of items on the menu, attentive service and free chupitos (flavoured vodka shots) with the bill add to the welcoming atmosphere. Artwork of safari animals and wooden sculptures from Africa keep the atmosphere homely and casual, rather than buttoned up and formal. If it’s on the menu, the gooey ‘crying cake’ is well worth checking out for dessert. The name comes from the hot chocolate that spills out when it’s cut, but it might just bring on tears of joy. + Continent-straddling menu selection - Closed at lunchtime

International Starters GLOBAL 82 Commercial Quay, Leith, EH6 6LX (Map 5: C3, 6) 0131 555 2546, internationalstarters.co.uk | Mon–Thu 5–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–10pm; Sun 12.30–8pm. LC; Veg; HW £13.90; Kids; Wh. £9.90 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Scottish? American? Asian? Mediterranean? If you can’t decide what to eat, then International Starters could be the solution. The idea is to pick ‘starters’ from anywhere on a sprawling global menu covering many bases, ideal for trying different dishes without committing to a full main course and great for groups. The concept is clever, but standards sometimes slip. Perhaps with such broad culinary brushstrokes this is inevitable: fulsome fajitas are fine as are the perennially popular crispy haggis balls and the mushroom and black pudding bites but the Peking duck is poor and the ‘Goan discovery’ something of a misnomer. Sometimes the novelty is enough – bite-size fish’n’chips served in their own paper poke for example – but the promised platter of mini desserts are less miniature and more pieces of a whole. However, the novel theme and party spirit of the place should paper over the cracks. Be warned, though, that both the price and size of dishes vary significantly, so don’t get carried away when you order. You can always come back for more! + A novel, fun approach to a meal out - Standards sometimes let down enticing menu descriptions

Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant MONGOLIAN 43 Assembly Street, Leith, Leith, EH6 7BQ (Map 5: E4, 29) 0131 555 0005, khublaikhan.co.uk | Mon–Thu 6–11pm; Fri noon–2.30pm, 5–11pm; Sat 5–11pm; Sun noon–2.30pm, 5–11pm. Veg; Pre; HW £13.75; Kids; T/A. £20.95 (set dinner) (£22.95 Sat)

Mongolia may be best known for its goat broth, yak butter and fermented mare’s milk, but it’s the sheer incongruity of Khublai Khan’s that draws most people in. Although there is an element of gimmickry – not least the chance (by prior arrangement) to dress one of your party up in full Genghis garb – the experience, and it is an experience, is enjoyable for those who don’t take

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Edinburgh villas zigzag the hillside down to turquoise seas below. The whole experience of My Big Fat Greek Kitchen aims to magic up memories (or fantasies) of summer holidays in Greece, and tipsy nights spent in a taverna, ending a day’s sunbathing with a table of meze and ouzo. Yes, the theme from Zorba the Greek does occasionally play through the speakers, and the menu ticks every taramasalata / tzatziki / gyros / spanakopita box to be expected of a traditional Greek restaurant. But everything is prepared with care and the owners strive hard to avoid what the menu calls ‘counterfeit mass-produced’ Greek food. A starter of salty halloumi makes the teeth squeak, the vegetarian moussaka is rich and satisfying, and (one for the indecisive) a dessert selection plate (£11.95) is a good way to sample Greek yogurt, figs, halva, honey and baklava in one go. Like holiday meals out, don’t be surprised if the dinner ends with a 45-minute chat with the owners – it’s that kind of place. + Warm, friendly service - Lack of Greek temperatures outside

Nargile TURKISH 73 Hanover Street, New Town, EH2 1EE (Map 1: D5, 93) 0131 225 5755, nargileedinburgh.com | Mon–Thu noon–9.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–10pm. Closed Sun. Veg; Pre; HW £13.50; Kids. £11.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Beirut (page 82): Ahmed Saadi’s Lebanese restaurant adds to Edinburgh’s rich mix of Middle Eastern options

themselves, or their food, too seriously. And, despite the fact that yak is on the menu in name only, and there are but few baby octopi at large in the Gobi, the freestyle set-up gives you a chance to sample half the population of Edinburgh Zoo. The eat-all-you-want policy allows you to taste all manner of creatures, including camel and zebra, and you can either follow suggested menus or, more rewardingly, try out your own combos from the extensive selections of herbs, spices and sauces to hand. Once you’ve filled your bowl with either rice or noodles and then added the desired selection of meat, veg and seasonings, the loyal grill-Mongol will do the rest. + The menu reads like Noah’s inventory - Grill is not charcoal but gas

Los Argentinos AMERICAS 28–30 West Preston Street, Southside, EH8 9PZ (Map 3: H3, 57) 0131 668 3111, losargentinossteakhouseinedinburgh.

co.uk | Mon–Sun 3–11pm. HW £11.95; Kids; Wh. £22.50 (dinner)

If the yuccas and canyon-coloured walls only hint at the theme, the photographs of bulls and huge cowhide stretched over one wall leave you in no doubt what Los Argentinos is all about. This Argentinian-themed steakhouse – an offshoot of its original branch in the Netherlands – is proud to import its steaks direct from Argentina. Red meat is undoubtedly the focus of operations. Choose your desired cut and size by weight and steal a glance at other diners’ plates if you can’t work out how big 225g or 300g actually is. Choose baked potato or chips as an accompaniment and perhaps a sauce such as the house special chimichurri. While diners are best advised to head straight for the steak, if you need to get your appetite going, you could try a starter of empanadas, Argentinian pasties filled with beef or vegetables. The Marguerite Patten-style palt y camarones (a cocktail

of avocado, shrimp and whisky sauce), meanwhile, is best avoided as the promised whisky kick is impossible to detect. Desserts play a similarly insubstantial supporting role and include an ill-advised coupe Argentina, whose four different-flavoured ice-creams include, surprisingly, horseradish and arrive smothered in scooshy cream. + Wide choice of steak - Supporting cast lets down the main event

My Big Fat Greek Kitchen GREEK 6 Brougham Street, Tollcross, EH3 9JH (Map 3: C1, 3) 0131 228 1030, mybigfatgreekkitchen.co.uk | Tue 5–11pm; Wed–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5–11pm; Sun 12.30–8pm. Closed Mon. Veg; Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; T/A. £8.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The back room of this Tollcross restaurant is decorated with a giant floor to ceiling photo of Santorini – where whitewashed

With its glass frontage and neutral colour scheme, Nargile eschews the mock bazaar trappings of many a UK Turkish restaurant for a sleek, contemporary look that matches the philosophy of its cuisine. Its self-styled ‘East-meets-West fusion’ still hails from the far side of the Bosphorus, still rooted in the Turkish family kitchen. Although the menu divides into starters and mains, diners are encouraged to embrace tradition by choosing the selection of mezzes to start, or even better, a banquet for two and a bottle from the Turkish wine list. The mezzes are delightful, the highlight being the simplest of the set, the house hummus. The presentation is a surprise, the effort evident, every dish exquisite. If you are sharing a banquet (go for the sultan sofrasi which takes in fish and seafood as well as meat), resist ordering extra pitta to wipe up the lemon and tahini mayo and leave room for multiple mains of the same style and standard, including keremitte balik (roasted sea bass), patlican kizartma (soft baked aubergine with feta) and the house special, a hot marinated lamb salad. To finish, the baklava selection are as sweet and sticky as they should be and about as traditionally Turkish as it comes. + Delightfully presented mezze starter selection - Being too full after a banquet!

Going back to the roots of traditional cooking. “Frankfurter Eck has local cult success written all over it” - The List 62 Elm Row Edinburgh, EH7 4AQ T: 0131 629 5784 www.frankfurtereck.com

11 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH, EH10 4HN

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Edinburgh Nawroz KURDISH 26–30 Potterow, Old Town, EH8 9BT (Map 2: D5, 67) 0131 667 2299, nawrozrestaurant.com | Mon–Sun noon–11pm. BYOB (no charge); Kids; T/A. £7 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Nawroz is the new kid on the exotic block of mainly Middle Eastern eateries surrounding Edinburgh Central Mosque. Run by four close friends who pride themselves on offering authentic Kurdish and Middle Eastern cuisine, it is still finding its feet, but being smack bang in the middle of student land and doing good-value lunch deals should see it in fine stead. Its spacious premises have a sleek black-and-chrome contemporary look, although a few wall-hung tapestries add a traditional touch. Grab shawarma for lunch, or take your time over dinner to try a coterie of Kurdish starters including kubba halab: sweet deep-fried patties of minced lamb rolled in crushed rice, and lovely crispy fried nan sawjee, with which you could mop up hummus til baklava time. Substantial mains include Kurdish takes on biryani, one being a lamb-on-the-bone stew with a rich, tomatoey vegetable sauce on the side, along with a range of shish kebabs served with sizeable nans, and other dishes from the grill. Round off with baklava, or ice cream in delightful saffron and rose water – light, and just right to round off. + Big space great for large groups - Remember to bring your own bottle

Nile Valley NORTH AFRICAN 6 Chapel Street, Southside, EH8 9AY (Map 2: D5, 68) 0131 667 8200 | Mon–Sat 10am–10pm. Closed Sun. Veg; BYOB (no charge); T/A. £5.99 (set lunch) / £15.50 (dinner)

Nile Valley has remained almost completely unchanged for years. The posters wallpapering the stairs down to the dingy basement dining area rotate, advertising new club nights and student drama productions. It’s a Sudanese restaurant, with popular Middle Eastern fillings: balls of lightly spiced falafel, thickly sliced char-grilled aubergine, hummus and feta are expertly rolled in khobz for some of the best wraps in town, which have lecturers and students from the nearby university queuing up and ordering their long-time favourites. The à la carte menu comes into its own after the lunchtime rush, and takes influence from across North Africa with ingredients such as molokhia in spicy tomato sauce, ful (fava beans) and bamia (okra). While the menu emphasises the vegetable side of a dish lamb or chicken feature as accompanying meats, though a small section gives fish the starring role. A somewhat dry baklava tops the small pudding list. Individual prices are higher than you might expect from the somewhat scruffy aspect of the place, but there are inexplicably cheap set menu deals which negate these. + A cheap, filling, reliably good lunch - Service is quick, but not always cheerful

Papoli MEDITERRANEAN 244a Morrison Street, West End, EH3 8DT (Map 4: B3, 28) 0131 477 7047, papoli.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 5.30– 10pm; Sat 5.30–10pm. Closed Sun. Veg; BYOB (£3.90; Fri/ Sat £4.90); HW £8.90; T/A; D. £7.90 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Papoli really is a little gem. Outside, the Haymarket traffic rumbles by, while inside its dinky dining room is a retreat of warm orange and yellow pendant lighting hanging low. Prints of

Provence (perhaps?) and Greece hint at the culinary offering but Italian is dominant with plenty pasta and pizza for takeaway too. The keenly priced set meals, unsurprisingly popular with local business lunchers and loyal diners, encourage exploration of influences from around the Mediterranean. Start with a Portobello mushroom in cheesy cream and bacon sauce, or the house special North African lamb shorba soup, a poor man’s premise of chick peas and pasta made rich in a revelry of coriander, cinnamon, chilli and mint. For mains, Parma ham and pecorino-wrapped panfried chicken comes with a just-right potato bake while the herb and nut frittata comes as three mini-omelettes enlivened with sweet peas and sour berries. Desserts include tiramisu – a luscious vortex of brandy and vanilla – and homecrafted warm apple and cinnamon sponge cake typical of the conscientiously high standard of cooking at Papoli. + Tremendous value set menus – and house wine too! - Busy location

while crushed ice cocktails are conjured in a straw-thatched bar. After a few margaritas you may well forget that you’re in Stockbridge. Mex faves from nachos to fajitas go down well, but it’s worth trying the less familiar dishes hailing from Columbia to Uruguay. So start with fried cassava – a parsnip-like root, petite cod-and-potato croquettes, or cheese-and-ham empanadas that recall crispy pancakes of yore. For mains, Venezuelan staple arepas are like toasties made from stiff potato pancakes, filled with chicken and cheese. House special Pabéllon Criollo is made up of an enjoyable shredded beef stew served with rice, black beans and fritter-sweet plantains. Alas, there is only a banana flambéado to keep the Latin spirit alive among a disappointingly standard, albeit home-made, selection of desserts. + Good introduction to staple South American dishes - Larger parties squashed onto too-small tables

Russian Passion

3 Dock Place, Leith, Leith, EH6 6LU See Bars & Pubs

RUSSIAN 5 Canonmills, Inverleith, EH3 5HA (Map 1: D1, 8) 0131 556 9042, russianpassioncafe.co.uk | Mon/Tue & Thu–Sun 11.30am–3.30pm, 7pm–10pm. Closed Wed. Veg; BYOB (no charge); T/A; D. £7 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

It’s rare to find a restaurant in Scotland that opens up unexplored gastronomic worlds and where pretty much everything on the menu is a new experience. Russian Passion in Canonmills, a café and restaurant run by Maria Belyaeva and her chef Luba, is one such revelation. Start your meal sipping Georgian mineral water and a tarragon-infused organic lemonade as green as crème de menthe before proceeding to the fresh soups, which include borsch and chicken broth seasoned by a classic Russian herb trio of parsley, dill and spring onion. Pumpkin and cream cheese piroshky (bready pasties) are perfect for dunking. Finish with Russian coffee (black with a slice of lemon), a chocolate potato (a spud-shaped rum truffle), and a wedge of Napoleon – a sensational puff pastry torte layered with cognac cream. The counter reveals more treasures: roasted Ukranian buckwheat, spicy adjika (Georgian pesto), Russian pickles, green walnut jam, coriander rye bread, Red October chocolate and the ‘zephir’, Russia’s equivalent of the Tunnock’s Teacake. Lunch is a daily-changing choice of two or three soups, piroshky and salads from the menu while dinner, featuring zakuska (appetisers) and main course blini (pancakes), pelmini (dumplings) and golubtsy (stuffed cabbage leaves), is BYOB and pre-ordered only or can be taken away for a feast at home. + The feeling of child-like wonder at such a fresh experience - No grazing platter on the lunch menu

Sabor Criollo AMERICAS 36 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge, EH4 1LY (Map 1: A3, 20) 0131 332 3322, saborcriollo.co.uk | Sep–Jun: Mon–Sat noon–4pm; 5.30–11pm; Sun 5.30–11pm. Jul/Aug: Mon–Sun noon–4pm, 5.30– 11pm. HW £12.95; Kids; T/A. £6.90 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Totally tropical Sabor Criollo serves up South American classics from its fantastically-foliaged basement in Stockbridge. A proliferation of parrots look at as you gaze out across turquoise seas in trompe l’oeil scenes beneath a climber creeping across the ceiling,

Shebeen AFRICAN

Spoilt for Choice AFRICAN 19 Marionville Road, EH7 5TY (Map 1: H3, off) 0131 661 1183, spoiltforchoice1. com | Tue–Thu & Sun 5pm–11pm; Fri/Sat 5pm–11.30pm. Closed Mon. BYOB (no charge); T/A; D. £11 (dinner)

Billing itself as Edinburgh’s new home of ‘soul food’ this Afro-Caribbean takeaway in Meadowbank has big plans: lunchtime opening starts in May 2012 and they are scouting sites for a dedicated restaurant. These are bold moves for a tiny site with just two tables and a funky curtain separating the counter and kitchen, but they are more than matched by the bold flavours appearing from behind said curtain. Fluffy bajan crab cakes are a Barbados speciality, a careful balance of sweet and spicy which are complimented by kosayi, a punchy West African dipping sauce. The Caribbean goat stew is about soulful as soul food gets, the rich, slow cooked meat a succulent treat. Jumping back across the Atlantic, yassa is a zesty chicken curry which goes perfectly with dodo (fried plantains). With excellent value set meals giving you the option to criss-cross potentially unfamiliar African and Caribbean cuisine with ease, Spoilt for Choice has been well named. + Huge range of unique, complex dishes - Tiny tables if you want to sit in

at lunchtimes, and also busy morning rushes, when students load up on freshly squeezed pear, ginger and lime juice, or Brazil nut and yoghurt smoothies. If you’re lucky they’ll be space to sit on one of the stools beside the kiosk. On Saturdays traditional Brazilian feijoada (a black bean and pork sausage stew) is also served. + A long way from same-old, same-old lunches - Outdoor seating only – and not much of that

✱

Turkish Kitchen

TURKISH 120–122 Rose Street South Lane, New Town, EH2 4BB (Map 1: B6, 52) 0131 226 2212, myturkishkitchen.co.uk | Mon–Thu 11am–2.30pm, 5pm–11.30pm [Takeaway until 1am]; Fri/Sat 11am–11.30pm [Takeaway until 3am]. Closed Sun. Veg; Pre; HW £12; Kids; Wh; T/A. £6.50 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Located down an unassuming lane off Rose Street, Turkish Kitchen does a thriving takeaway trade but is well worth seeking out, not just for a postpub kebab, but for a slap-up banquet of traditional Turkish cooking. Fret-cut sconces, decorative mirrors and storm lanterns provide the expected touch of character, as does the Turkish football on the telly that sometimes catches the attention of ex-Nargile chef Seyhmus Aslanalp as he lines up mezze in the open kitchen. Opt for the ufra sofrasi banquet to really see what the Turkish Kitchen can do, but resist wiping up every bowl of a substantial starter selection with the heavenly hot buttered pitta that opens the feast. Tuck into sucuk sausage, lovely light cacik and orangey salsa, but be warned: this may be enough for smaller appetites. Ready or not, it’s on to a big plate of expertly chargrilled lamb, chicken and kofte, with cheesy chicken sote, and karniyarik – a kind of aubergine bolognaise, plus rice, and even chips on the side. Fortunately, the chocolate baklava to finish is exquisite in size, sweet-as, and well partnered with a perking shot of thick Turkish coffee. + Good value Turkish cooking - Beware, the banquet requires a big appetite

Tupiniquim BRAZILIAN The Green Police Box, Middle Meadow Walk, Lauriston Place, Old Town, EH1 9AU (Map 2: C5, 66) , tupiniquim.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–6pm; Sat 10am–4pm. Closed Sun. Veg; T/A. £4.50 (lunch)

Inside a tiny police box at the top of Middle Meadow Walk, Brazilians Gardenia or Fernando (there’s only room for one at a time) are busy multi-tasking, frying crêpes, blending smoothies, pouring coffee and spooning out açai and guarana sorbets. The crêpes are gluten-free (made from maize, tapioca, buckwheat and other flours), freshly prepared, with some herbs plucked from a miniature garden patch behind the hut. The ‘Release the chicken’ pancake comes loaded with shredded chicken, jalapeños, Cheddar and sweetcorn, or there are vegetable curry and steak, cheese and spinach fillings too. For sweet pancakes, guava jelly and mozzarella is a Brazilian favourite, or there are more traditional, Nutella, banana, or lemon and sugar versions. Prepare for queues

Purslane (page 93): chef Paul Gunning’s bold wee

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Edinburgh

SCOTTISH Scotland boasts a natural larder that is a chef’s dream. Luckily, we also have a crop of chefs who are making the most of that bounty in a variety of settings, from the starched linen of the Michelin-starred restaurant through the foams and crazy creations of the ‘food as art’ brigade, to more understated places where the ingredients are allowed to do all the shouting. Of course, with so much variety in approach, and prices that vary from the down-to-earth to the seriously lofty, comparing them can sometimes be a futile undertaking. Suffice to say, such a rich choice does ultimately make exploring what makes a restaurant ‘Scottish’ a satisfying journey. Enjoy yours, wherever it takes you. Reviewers: John Cooke, Catriona Graham, Carol Main, Robin Wu

A Room in Leith

1c Dock Place, Leith, EH6 6LU (Map 5: C3, 11) 0131 554 7427, aroomin.co.uk | Mon–Sun 10.30am–4pm, 5.30–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 10.30am–1am.] BYOB (£3); HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £12.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

With its prime waterfront setting, complete with large wooden conservatory, outdoor dining terrace and even a small floating pontoon, the Leith outpost of the ‘A Room In . . .’ chain is a busy and buzzing destination. There is more than a little European atmosphere here, especially in the warmer months when alfresco dining becomes a possibility. Adjoining the dark and handsome Teuchter’s Landing bar, the restaurant’s main dining space occupies the conservatory and serves up an appealing and unpretentious menu of Scottish bistro dishes. Given the proximity to the sea, it places a fair amount of emphasis on fish – and

sustainable fish at that. A nicely presented starter of soused Orkney herring and potato salad comes with a bright ring of zippy pickle while a generous main of coley in a Black Isle beer batter arrives crisp, light and grease-free. To finish off, marmalade cheese cake is a winning combination as is a selection of artisan British and Irish cheeses with onion jam. + Buzzing waterside vibes, good food and BYOB policy - On sunnier days you’ll need to get there early to be sure of a good spot outside

A Room in the Town

18 Howe Street, New Town, EH3 6TG (Map 1: C4, 44) 0131 225 8204, aroomin. co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–2.30pm, 5.30– 10pm. Veg; BYOB (£3 wine); HW £13.95; Kids. £12.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

A Room in the Town claims to be the place that ‘started it all’. ‘It’ is using quality Scottish produce to create excellent eating at reasonable prices. Oh, and in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere too. Nearly 15 years on, this Room is still bang on the money, delivering as advertised. A crostini topped with roast fennel and tomato is gutsy and garlicky. A chicken and chorizo terrine is a good choice, although olives are an unadvertised extra ingredient. A fine piece of lamb rump is perfectly pink with a well-made red wine gravy. Salmon and coley fish-cakes have the requisite high proportion of fish, though lemon mayo is all too frugal. A side order of vegetables is too much choice in too small a dish, when less might certainly be more. All quibbles really. Desserts run the gamut from the home comfort of apple and vanilla compôte crumble to a more ritzy Satsuma fizz jelly with mascarpone. Fans of smaller Scottish brewers are well catered for, alongside a reasonable choice of wine. Raise a glass to the Room, still very accommodating. + Easy-going, easy eating - Some rough edges

A Room in the West End

26 William Street, West End, EH3 7NH (Map 4: B2, 15) 0131 226 1036, aroomin. co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5.30– 10pm; Sat/Sun noon–3pm, 5.30–10pm.

[Bar open: Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10pm; Sat/Sun noon–4pm.] Veg; BYOB (£3 wine); HW £13.95; Kids. £12.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

A cheery atmosphere awaits in a Room in the West End in the basement under Teuchters pub in William Street. With its red walls, chunky furniture and three wee booths at the back if you want a bit of privacy, the style is informal. Here you’ll find traditional dishes and ingredients, but with a twist. Duck liver pâté, flavoured with sage and juniper is encircled by sticky Cointreau sauce. The contrasting textures of white pudding, crayfish tail and chorizo are served in a round of puff pastry. Sweet and tender lamb combines with barley and kale in a robust stew. Haggis adds texture to mashed potato for succulent roasted chicken supreme. There’s nothing particularly Scottish about dark chocolate and cranberry, however rich and smooth, even in a tart. Or the shiny shards of pecan praline which add colour and crunch to a roulade of soft peach cream spiked with ginger. But you can always wash it down with traditional Scottish blaand, from the list of pudding wines and ports. + Unpretentious atmosphere - Side dish of potatoes and veg a bit boring

Above Abbotsford

3–5 Rose Street, New Town, EH2 2PR (Map 1: E5, 104) 0131 225 5276, theabbotsford.com | Mon–Thu 11.30– 3pm, 5–10pm; Fri/Sat 11.30–10pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 5–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 12.30–11pm.] HW £12.95; Kids (under 5). £14 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The cast of Mad Men might find themselves strangely at home in this room above the bustling Abbotsford Bar at the Jenners End of Rose Street. White table linen, dark wood, big mirrors and red leather chairs give it a classic air. With the old school interior comes a no-nonsense menu, in part seasonal, but always boasting its ‘classics’. Well-hung steaks from the Borders, beef and ale pie, haddock and chips, and a seriously meaty burger are pub grub done well. A generous starter of gravadlax, cured inhouse, comes with lemon mayo. Smoked salmon and trout fish-cakes are equally accomplished. From the daily specials selection, a main course of chicken breast is spiced with a filling of venison, all artfully arranged on a generous landscape of vegetables, dribbled with a gutsy game jus. Other dishes tread an eclectic path from grilled seabass to pulled pork with a bean cassoulet; wild mushroom linguine to Thai-flavoured chicken. Sweets include a trio of fruity sorbets alongside comfortable standards such as cheesecake and bread and butter pudding. Don Draper might just approve, given a martini or three. + Classic setting has a certain style - Somewhat muddled menu

Amber Restaurant

The Scotch Whisky Experience, 354 Castlehill, The Royal Mile, Old Town, EH1 2NE (Map 2: B3, 27) 0131 477 8477, amber-restaurant.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon– 7.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 10am–7.30pm; for restaurant customers only 6–11.30pm.] Veg; HW £15.25; Kids; Wh. £12 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

s bold wee basement restaurant

Being practically on Edinburgh Castle’s esplanade and part of a five-star tourist attraction, it’s inevitable that dinner at Amber is geared towards city visitors. Past the £1 m revamped shop, down the stairs from the Scotch Whisky Experience, the restaurant is in stark contrast to its historic building – modern,

✱ HITLIST SCOTTISH ✱ Castle Terrace Cooking at the top of his game, chef Dominic Jack offers fine dining that effortlessly marries Scottish seasonality with consummate French technique. ✱ The Dining Room At the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, James Freeman offers refined yet robust and creative food, with influences from Scotland and further afield. ✱ Forth Floor There’s a bit of wow again about the top floor of Harvey Nicks with the restaurant priding itself on high quality ingredients, deftly prepared. ✱ Iglu Bin ends and artisan liqueurs complement the ethically sourced and well-prepared food at this New Town hideaway. ✱ Kitchin Tom Kitchin continues to dazzle with an unmissable mix of the best raw ingredients from Scotland’s larder and cerebral cooking. ✱ Number One A real taste of luxury – precise and playful, Michelin-starred cooking that’s a joy to eat and knowledgeably served. ✱ Restaurant Mark Greenaway Not for the gastronomically conservative, Mark Greenaway’s creations are full of witty touches and modern flourishes. ✱ Wildfire A ‘hidden gem’ that isn’t a marketing cliché, with a wholly satisfying focus on good ingredients and a menu that does the simple things very well. oak-clad, with a touch of the canteen to it. The Taste of Scotland menu shows characteristic integrity of ingredients. Many of the components also appear on the regular menu as ‘tapas’, starters or mains. Generally structured around tripartite starter and main courses, the latter being fish, vegetarian and meat, it changes almost daily. Mains could include a well-hung fillet steak and grey mullet with wild garlic sauce courtesy of a local forager, followed by sticky toffee pudding and a dram. It doesn’t all work, the starters particularly: ham hock is lacking in flavour, and a roll mop doesn’t really sit all that well next to smoked salmon mousse. In the main, however, there’s the feeling throughout of classic Scottish pub dishes, done well – not a bad way to introduce tourists to the taste of Scotland. + Surprisingly decent prices across the menus - Last orders are very early The List Eating & Drinking Guide 87

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Edinburgh Angels With Bagpipes

343 High Street, Old Town, EH1 1PW (Map 2: C3, 23) 0131 220 1111, angelswithbagpipes.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. Pre; HW £19; Kids; Wh. £11.95 (set lunch) / £27 (dinner)

TABLE Talk : MARK GREENAWAY ON STRAWBERRIES I personally think the strawberries we have in Scotland, available all the way from the Borders right up to the Highlands, are second to none. I use strawberries a lot in the restaurant when they’re in season to make some of my favourite desserts and only use the finest Scottish strawberries from select suppliers. The sales of Scottish strawberries more than double during the season from early June which is when they’re at their best compared with the inferior imported variety. You can even pick your own at selected farms – you can’t get much fresher than that – which makes them full of flavour and as juicy as you could ever wish them to be. When choosing strawberries, look for ones that are firm and unblemished and don’t be tempted by the larger berries that may look juicier, as they often contain more water and are therefore less tasty. After spending five years working and living in Sydney, anywhere else in the world just doesn’t compare. After arriving in Australia with my excitement at the strawberry season almost upon us, I was bitterly disappointed when it finally arrived. I thought with the warm climate and Australia’s fantastic farming reputation they would really be something special. However, they just didn’t match up to the ones I had picked as a schoolboy in my summer holidays or cooked with in the many restaurants I had spent working in. Berries have recently reached superfood status and can protect against illnesses such as cancer. They are also very versatile, you can have them on their own as a snack, make your very own home-made strawberry jam or my favourite – they can be made into the most delicious of desserts. ■ Mark Greenaway is head chef at Restaurant Mark Greenaway (see page 93).

Don’t let the High Street buskers put you off. Through the back in the restaurant you won’t hear them. Instead, the smart sophisticated décor and modern tableware sets off an approach to Scottish ingredients that acknowledges centuries of continental influence. So enjoyably peppery haggis is paired with kohlrabi instead of turnip, while a diminutive Kilner jar contains a frothy Cullen skink. Chorizo and salsa verde add piquancy to a fillet of hake, daintily garnished with tiny crisply fried anchovies, sweet cherry tomatoes and minute diced aubergine. The pan-fried duck is, however, lacklustre, and the date sauce doesn’t quite lift it. A slate of Scottish cheeses including Dunsyre Blue and smoked Dunlop does impress, with both oatcakes and water biscuits and another tiny Kilner jar, this time for the spiced pear chutney. The plate of passion fruit, mango sorbet, coconut and papaya really is as pretty as a picture, with the sorbet satisfyingly fruity and not too tart. All this, and service which is relaxed and unfussy too. Plus a courtyard for outdoor dining if weather allows. + Intriguing range of Kilner jars - The engaging theme of angels with bagpipes is not fully exploited

The Atholl Dining Room

The Howard Hotel, 34 Great King Street, New Town, EH3 6QH (Map 1: D3, 34) 0131 557 3500, thehoward.com | Mon–Sun noon–2pm, 7–9pm. [Afternoon tea: 2–5pm; reservations required]. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 12.30pm–11pm.] Veg; HW £18; Kids; Wh. £24.50 (set lunch) / £24.50 (set dinner)

If the address wasn’t in the heart of Edinburgh’s New Town, it would be easy to feel spirited away to the Highlands in the Howard Hotel’s Atholl Dining Room. Hushed conversations punctuated by clinking cutlery and sotto voce Elgar seeping through the speakers in a dimly lit – but rather lovely – dining room collude to deliver a classic country house atmosphere. An amuse-bouche of haggis bon-bons, their coating on the hard side of crisp, heralds the Scottish inspired menu, with a choice of four dishes for each of starter, main and dessert. Portions are decently sized, with a trio of salmon exactly that, beef cooked as ordered, and sea bream fillet perfectly seared, succulent and moreish. Not so, though, its redundant partner of chewy prawn dumplings. In starters, ham hough terrine loses out to the overpowering flavour of distinctive beetroot purée. A varied cheeseboard comes courtesy of Iain Mellis, with walnut bread and chutney home-made. For dessert, vanilla flavoured opera gâteau is also produced on the premises, while white chocolate fudge and champagne truffles are, quite simply, delicious. + Retiring to a whisky stocked drawing room with option of staying the night - Swiss raclette unavailable

building, in the courtyard of a restored cotton mill. It’s a lovely light-filled space, with lots of glass and contemporary furnishings lending a stylish feel that sits comfortably within the handsome historical surrounds. At the front of the building is a bar area serving up cocktails, coffees and a popular afternoon tea, while the restaurant at the back offers a large and appealing café/bistro menu. Soups, fish-cakes, mussels, burgers, brunch dishes and more are the order of the day – although the food that arrives can be a little hit and miss. A club sandwich, for example, comes on slightly burnt bread accompanied by rather wan chips. A main of decently beer-battered fish fares better, as do some nicely seasoned Thai-style fish-cakes. Things look down with desserts though, and a banana bread and butter pudding disappoints in terms of flavour and texture. With these inconsistencies ironed out, the Birdcage could live up to the promise of the menu and delightful surrounds and be a winning destination venue. + Beautiful building with outside tables in summer - Smaller menu, realised more carefully could benefit kitchen and customers

Blonde

75 St Leonard’s Street, Southside, EH8 9QR See Bistros & Brasseries

Café St Honoré

34 North West Thistle Street Lane, New Town, EH2 1EA (Map 1: C5, 80) 0131 226 2211, cafesthonore.com | Mon–Fri noon– 2pm, 5.15–10pm; Sat/Sun noon–2pm, 6–10pm. Pre; HW £17.90. £15.50 (set lunch) / £27 (dinner)

Romantic Café St Honoré feels ideally placed tucked away in its cobbled New Town lane, but quiet locations can be deceiving. Inside, its charming, oldfashioned mirrored rooms are often bustling with exuberant diners. At nearly twenty years old, it is a bit of a New

Town institution, fondly reminisced over by those who remember Edinburgh when good dining was more elusive. In recent years, the classic French menu has seen the Scottish influence grow ever stronger. Some may miss the boeuf bourguignon, identifying little that remains truly French beyond the atmosphere and the wine list, but today’s daily changing menu is driven by local, seasonal Scottish produce. Success varies. Inverawe smoked eel is set off by peppery scurvy grass and horseradish, but the tender beef carpaccio is overwhelmed by the rich celeriac remoulade. Gressingham duck breast, pan-fried, then roasted, is pink and lean but the chunky slices of slightly dry fondant potatoes make overly hard work for your knife. Firm Shetland cod flakes away into glistening mounds from its spinach bed, but the British cheese to end tends towards the lacklustre. + Wonderful atmosphere for an intimate evening - Its je ne sais quoi can slip at times

✱

Castle Terrace

33/35 Castle Terrace, West End, EH1 2EL (Map 4: E3, 42) 0131 229 1222, castleterracerestaurant.com | Tue–Sat noon–2pm, 6.30–10pm. Closed Sun/Mon. Veg; Kids (under 5); Wh. £24 (set lunch) / £40 (dinner)

It’s no mean feat to collect a Michelin star just over a year after opening. Nor is it Castle Terrace’s only accolade. It’s hard to quibble with any of them. At every level, this relative newcomer excels. Chef Dominic Jack has a dexterity with flavours that is effortless, even when working with humble ingredients. Clearly, he is comfortable with the more subtle end of fine dining, a finesse that will distance him from Tom Kitchin’s more exuberant output in Leith’s sister restaurant. A starter of raviolis of ham hock in consommé typifies his light touch. Nothing dominates, the smoked ham is subtle, yet well defined; it’s simple, but beautifully composed. The showing off is left to the amuse bouches, concentrated canapé hits,

The Birdcage

Stuart House, Eskmills, Station Road, Musselburgh, EH21 7PQ, 0131 273 5240, birdcageeskmills.com | Sun–Thu noon–9.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Wed 11am–11pm; Thu–Sat 11am–1am; Sun 12.30–11pm.] Pre; HW £13.50; Kids; Wh. £9.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

The Birdcage resides in a thoroughly modern conversion of a Victorian

Steak (page 95): high-octane dining and protien feasts at Picardy Place

88 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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Edinburgh like a witty, grape-sized ‘salad niçoise’. Butter-soft lamb and chickpeas take a harmonious middle eastern route in seasoning. Gentle plaice is given a lift with a touch of Barwheys Ayrshire cheese. It’s just one of the local landmarks of Scottish produce underpinning Dominic’s hyper-seasonal, ‘nature to plate’ philosophy. Scottish produce, French technique, it’s a marriage consummated with real pleasure at Castle Terrace. + A masterclass in flavour - Ice of Titanic proportions in soft drinks.

Channings Restaurant

12–16 South Learmonth Gardens, Comely Bank, West End, EH4 1EZ (Map 4: B1, off) 0131 315 2226, channings. co.uk | Mon–Sun 11.30am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–1am; Sun 12.30pm–1am.] Veg; HW £15.75; Kids. £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Hotel dining rooms doubling as public restaurants face a challenge in being dual-purpose. The terraced basement of Channings doesn’t quite make the transition from residents’ space to dedicated dining, but, on the other hand, has an array and flexibility of menus which offer pretty much something for everyone. Apart from the weekend’s Boozy Snoozy and child-friendly family dining, a formal dinner menu rings the changes regularly and the all day menu continues into the night. Business-like service brings a taste of Scotland’s Summer Isles as the king of fish, sweetcured, stars in a salmon platter enhanced by a sprinkling of capers with soft homemade bread. Butternut squash soup is low-key on seasoning, with added chilli oil giving just a feeble kick. Ever popular choice, Borders beef burger, is cooked

as chef decides. Sea bass arrives in two small fillets, with nicely crisped skins, but accompanying Jerusalem artichokes are undercooked, though the combination with pancetta and sprouts is a strong one. Not so for desserts, as chocolate terrine with kumquats or fig/nougatine parfait with pomegranate making less effective pairings. + Wide range of choice - Left alone for rather too long

Cranston’s Restaurant

43 Princes Street, New Town, EH2 2BY (Map 2: C2, 1) 0131 556 4648, oldwaverley.co.uk | Mon–Sun 12.30– 2.30pm, 6–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am–1pm. Bar food: Mon–Sun noon– 9pm.] HW £16.50. £8.95 (set lunch) / £19.95 (set dinner)

On the corner of Princes Street and South St David Street, across from the Scott Monument, a window table in the Old Waverley Hotel’s first floor dining-room is a great vantage point for watching the world go by. And the world comes to your plate. Take, for example, the warm salad of red mullet with sweet chilli and coconut cream sauce. Smoked duck is moist and sweet with honey and balsamic syrup and comes with lambs lettuce. Both starters are attractively presented on over-sized plates. The pan-fried venison haunch could be more tender, but is accompanied by a really garlicky mash. A row of potatoes separates a substantial fillet of red snapper from green beans and broccoli – the flesh is firm but flaky. Desserts tend towards the indulgent and include a deep and gooey chocolate praline torte. For those seeking something lighter, the cheese plate is well-presented and provides a choice of biscuits as well

as a generous helping of chutney. + Somewhere you can take Mum and Dad - Service verging on the over-eager

✱

The Dining Room

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society, 28 Queen Street, New Town, EH2 1JX (Map 1: D5, 86) 0131 220 2044, thediningroomedinburgh.co.uk | Mon noon–2.30pm; Tue–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5pm–9.30pm. Closed Sun. LC; Pre; HW £19.50; Kids; Wh. £18.50 (set lunch) / £32 (dinner)

While a fantastic selection of spirits is the focus in the Scotch Malt Whisky Society Scotland’s famous members’ bar, the food is definitely the star in the Dining Room, its upscale restaurant. A handful of tables in a light Georgian drawing room with fireplace and contemporary furnishings create a setting which is elegant enough, if a little anonymous. Something that can’t be said for James Freeman’s playful and confident cooking, which takes in eclectic influences from Scotland, Europe and further afield. A rich starter of dark and sticky braised beef tongue with foie gras is pleasingly cut by acid-bright, orange buckthorn berries, showing a fine-dining level of attention to detail paired with robustness and generosity. Something, along with high-octane flavours, that is evident throughout the menu. Mains, such as spiced cod with chickpea chips and red pepper essence, or puddings like poached pineapple with molasses cake and rum and raisin ice-cream are similarly well conceived and executed. Complimentary one-day membership to the society (for à la carte diners) surely means a nightcap dram in the bar to finish off? + Excellent, creative cooking, good wine list and informal but adept service

- The environs possibly a little beige for

some

The Dogs

110 Hanover Street, New Town, EH2 1DR See Bistros & Brasseries

EH15

Jewel and Esk College, 24 Milton Road East, EH15 2PP, 0131 344 7344, jec. ac.uk | Mon–Sun noon–1.15pm, Thu–Sat 7–8.30pm. BYOB (£6); HW £11.95; Kids; Wh. £7.25 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Jewel & Esk College’s The Club offers a variety of recreational facilities, open to the general public, which provide students with an opportunity for real-life work experience. EH15 Restaurant & Bar is the hospitality arm of this set-up and occupies a bright and modern top floor space with stunning views towards the city. For lunch service, students prepare dishes under close supervision during the day’s classes, while for the three evenings that the restaurant is open, selected students work as chefs and waiting staff. It’s a great idea that offers something for both students and customers and results in some fairly keen pricing. Lunch mains, such as guinea fowl saltimbocca with dauphinoise potatoes, come in at a flat-priced fiver while in the evening a nicely cooked rump of Scottish lamb with lentils and savoy cabbage will set you back £11 (as with all mains). It’s a fairly conservative but nonetheless appealing menu. So, if you’re interested in good value eats with great views, then EH15 could fit the bill – and you’ll be supporting a useful cause to boot. + Good value with epic views - It’ll be rather off the beaten track for most

PROVENANCE, QUALITY, STYLE Visit the new look Forth Floor Restaurant, Bar and Brasserie for the best in contemporary eating and drinking in Edinburgh. To make a reservation, please contact the Forth Floor Reservations team on 0131 524 8350 or book online at www.harveynichols.com

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First Coast

97–101 Dalry Road, West End, EH11 2AB See Bistros & Brasseries

✱

WHISKI Bar & Restaurant

Multi award winning whisky bar and restaurant Fresh Scottish food served all day Over 300 whiskies Live Scottish music every night “the ultimate Scottish experience” 119 High Street (Royal Mile), Edinburgh, EH1 1SG T: 0131 556 3095 E: info@whiskibar.co.uk

www.whiskibar.com follow us on twitter @whiskibar

Forth Floor Restaurant

Harvey Nichols, 30–34 St Andrew Square, New Town, EH2 2AD (Map 1: E5, 113) 0131 524 8350, harveynichols.com | Mon noon–3pm; Tue–Fri noon–3pm, 6–10pm; Sat noon–3.30pm, 6–10pm; Sun noon–3.30pm. [Bar open: Mon 10am–6pm; Tue–Sat 10am–midnight; Sun 11am–6pm.] HW £19.50; Kids (under 6); Wh. £24 (set lunch) / £33 (dinner)

Following its recent makeover, the new softer shades of pinks, browns and muted reds of Harvey Nichols’ Forth Floor Restaurant create a warm glow that sets the scene for exceptionally stylish dining. Priding itself on high quality produce sourced seasonally and sustainably, the kitchen champions some of Scotland’s most prized provisions. Tarbert scallop is of large proportions, with inspired accompaniments of onion seed to sear and butternut/squid ink pasta in contrasting texture. Squab pigeon is cooked sous-vide, in a water bath, ensuring it tastes tender, juicy and retains its earthy flavour, complemented by not too sweet vanilla roast pear. Meats and fish in main courses come from as far south as Cornwall for wild sea bass and, shifting north, Inverurie for lamb. Its shoulder is gently braised, but atopped by caramelised salted olive purée that’s too much for it to bear. From the seafood bar, lobster is deftly prepared, and cleantasting teamed with lemon crème fraîche. Eight different British cheeses, carefully explained, are highly commendable, while sweets, several involving sponge, are imaginatively enticing. + Sommelier’s food and wine matching is consistently spot-on - Lights a bit dim to read everything on offer

The Gardener’s Cottage

Royal Terrace Gardens, EH7 5DX (Map 1: H4, 146) , thegardenerscottage.co | Mon & Thu/Fri noon–3pm, 5pm–10.30pm; Sat/ Sun 9am–3pm, 5pm–10.30pm. Closed Tue/Wed. Wh. £15 (lunch) / £25 (dinner)

grainstore-restaurant.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–2pm, 6–10pm; Fri noon–2pm, 6–11pm; Sat noon–3pm, 6–11pm; Sun noon–3pm, 6–10pm. . HW £17.95; Kids. £12.50 (set lunch) / £32 (dinner)

If you fancy trying your hand as a restaurant critic, the Grain Store is the place to go. Feedback on dishes – especially those new to the menu – is positively encouraged. So, what to say about pithivier of hare with a saddle of hare salad? It is certainly a plentiful main course and an unusual opportunity to taste the same, rich game source in two different incarnations on the one plate. Other game choices are Perthshire venison served three ways, whole roast partridge or, from starters, roast widgeon (wild duck). In fishy main courses, garlic cream purée swamps the flavour of flakily cooked halibut, with little compensation from its wilted broccoli accompaniment. Seafood in starters is of top-notch quality, whether hand dived scallops from Orkney, homesmoked salmon or Loch Creran oysters. Experimenting in desserts, honey is overpowered by the offbeat choice of fennel as they vie for attention with panacotta and orange. A safer selection is gooey chocolate fondant combined with super-crunchy double chocolate chip ice-cream. + Excellent selection of dessert wines by the glass - Staff whisk bottle of wine away for controlled pouring

Hellers Kitchen

15 Salisbury Place, Southside, EH9 1SL See Bistros & Brasseries

Hewat’s Restaurant

19–21b Causewayside, Southside, EH9 1QF (Map 3: H3, 59) 0131 466 6660, hewatsrestaurant.com | Mon/ Tue 6–9.30pm, Wed/Thu noon–2pm, 6–9.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–2pm, 6–10pm. Closed Sun. Pre; HW £15.35; Kids. £11.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Opening Times: Monday: Closed Tuesday-Saturday: 12pm-3pm Lunch, 5.30pm-10pm A la Carte Sunday: Closed

Housed in a B-listed building (designed by William Playfair) in Royal Terrace Gardens, the Gardener’s Cottage has the potential to be a stirring addition to Edinburgh’s dining scene. The design means the kitchen will be placed in the centre of the building, with communal dining on either side. In the evening diners will enjoy an ever-changing set menu and plenty of interaction with the chefs – a bit like a professional supper club. If the setting promises to be good, so does the food, as co-owners Edward Murray and Dale Mailley both come with strong pedigrees. Between them they’ve worked at a number of Edinburgh’s bestloved eateries (including the Outsider, Blue, the Atrium, Café St Honoré and Falko), served under some top chefs (like Neil Forbes and Mark Hix) and learned their trade in Michelin-starred environments (The Kitchin and The Ledbury). It’s due to open in June 2012, but until then you can get a flavour for things at their pop-up at the Edinburgh Farmers’ Market where they’re dishing up brunch and lunch created from stallholder’s produce. [Not yet open at time of going to press.]

Hewat’s certainly promises much. This plushly appointed room on Causewayside is all maroon velvet chairs, chandeliers and original artworks – plenty to make eating here feel like a special occasion. Husband and wife team Richard (the chef) and Margaret (front of house) Hewat have been here for six years, with menus that are, if anything, on the conservative side, much like the surroundings. Scottish produce is well to the fore, as is the opportunity to dine at a very palatable price with special early evening and midweek menus. A starter of pan-fried black pudding crowned with crisp pancetta sits on a somewhat dry haggis risotto. Cullen Skink with mussels is creamy in texture and taste. The seabass, monkfish and tiger prawn with pea risotto and wilted spinach is impressive on the menu, but with fish overdone, less so on the plate. Dessert lovers are well catered for, with a tiramisu crème brûlée typical. An impressive cheese board will please those who prefer to succumb to the savoury. A well-written wine list enlightens. If you’ve something to celebrate or just want to get out your glad-rags, head for Hewat’s. + A little luxury without breaking the bank - Cooking not entirely faultless

Pre Theatre Available: 5.30pm-6.45pm

Ghillie Dhu

Howies (Victoria Street)

Restaurant Mark Greenaway is located on Picardy Place in the heart of Edinburgh City Centre. Award-winning renowned Head Chef Mark Greenaway has received acclamation nationwide following the opening of Restaurant Mark Greenaway at No.12 Picardy Place in February 2011. In January 2012 Mark was the only Scottish chef to be newly awarded 3 Rosettes from the AA for his outstanding cuisine. Mark Greenaway's ﬁne-dining restaurant is one of the most exquisite dining experiences in Scotland.

www.restaurantmarkgreenaway.com Tel : 0131 557 0952 @markgreenaway

restaurantmarkgreenaway

2 Rutland Place, West End, EH1 2AD See Bars & Pubs

The Grain Store

30 Victoria Street, Old Town, EH1 2JW (Map 2: C3, 37) 0131 225 7635,

10–14 Victoria Street, Old Town, EH1 2HG (Map 2: C3, 36) 0131 225 1721, howies.uk.com | Sun–Thu noon–2.30pm, 6–10pm; Fri/Sat 6–10.30pm. Veg; Pre; BYOB (£4); HW £11.95; Kids. £8.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

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In association with

Specializing in the best of Seafood and Meats from the Highlands and Islands of Scotland Open 7 days for dinner

0131 337 6169 4 West Coates, Haymarket

Edinburgh, EH12 5JQ www.dunstanehotels.co.uk

Angels with Bagpipes (page 88): Scottish ingredients with continental flair

Long time favourite on the Edinburgh dining scene, the Howies Restaurants group has waxed and waned over the years. Now operating from two locations, its Victoria Street operation, close by the Royal Mile, is well placed for tourists and locals alike. There is ample Scottish fare to excite both. Haggis and Cullen skink are among the traditional opening gambits, with hot smoked salmon mixed through rocket in tangy dressing a welcome alternative to the more usual cold smoked variety. An acceptable red pepper/aubergine pâté comes with commercial oatcakes, brightened by home-made chutney, as do the organic Scottish cheeses served at ideal room temperature from the other end of the menu. From a well-balanced selection of Scotland’s fish, meat and poultry, confit of duck is inspired by the Auld Alliance, with soft tender flesh falling easily from the bone onto its accompanying spicy chorizo and chickpea cassoulet. The Scots/Swiss partnership is less successful. Stornoway black pudding is crumbled into a saggy rösti of finely shredded potato, which while refreshingly under-salted and alongside deftly cooked chicken supreme, gains nothing from added truffle oil. + They still do their incomparable banoffi pie - Cullen skink so popular that it sells out

Howies at Waterloo

29 Waterloo Place, New Town, EH1 3BQ (Map 1: G5, 112) 0131 556 5766, howies.uk.com | Sun–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10pm; Sat noon–3pm, 5.30–10pm. [Coffee: Mon–Sun from 11am.] Veg; Pre; BYOB (£4); HW £11.95; Kids; Wh. £8.95 (set lunch) / £17.50 (dinner)

While things below the waterline have been a bit frantic since the original owners bought back Edinburgh’s two remaining Howies in late 2011, above the surface everything is typically calm. The Waterloo Place restaurant is a stylishly decorated, well laid-out airy, split-level space, with room for more than 100 diners, while a separate room caters for private groups of up to

26. Service is slick and friendly while the menu features a choice of simple, consistently good quality dishes made from ingredients that are delivered each day. The strong Scottish accent comes through in starters such as a tower of Stornoway black pudding, white pudding and haggis served in a whisky jus that adds a hint of sweetness to the dish. And a plate of pork comprising loin, belly and crackling, accompanied by bubble and squeak, points to the simple yet confident style practised in the kitchen. Desserts might include a light lemon and rhubarb posset, or you could justify a gooey banoffi pie by claiming the thick banana filling as one of your five a day. + Back ticking the Howies boxes - One of only two Howies left in Edinburgh

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Iglu

2b Jamaica Street, New Town, EH3 6HH (Map 1: C4, 45) 0131 476 5333, theiglu. com | Tue–Thu 6–10pm; Fri–Sat noon– 3pm, 6–10pm; Sun noon–9pm. Closed Mon. [Bar open: Tue–Thu 4–11pm; Fri noon–midnight; Sat noon–late; Sun 12.30–11pm. Closed Mon.] LC; Pre; HW £14; Kids. £12 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

For all that it is tucked at the far end of a side-street, Iglu has established an enviable profile, priding itself on serving seasonal, locally-sourced, organic and wild foods in the cosy upstairs restaurant and downstairs bar area. Proving high principles are compatible with interesting food, ham hock terrine is packed with meat, its cucumber dill salad and warm honey walnut bread providing a good contrast of taste and texture. Cubes of roasted pumpkin add colour to a bowl of salad greens. MSC-certified sea bream panfried to flaky perfection is served on crushed potatoes and wilted spinach. The daily specials can offer pan-fried mackerel accompanied by chunks of kohlrabi and Jerusalem artichoke. The options for dessert include rhubarb crumble complete with a wee jug of custard heavily flecked with vanilla on

the side. Both thick oatcakes and bread are offered with the wide selection of Scottish cheeses. The wine list is supplemented with a blackboard of bin ends. And to end the meal, choose from the artisan liqueurs such as a richly marmaladey Seville orange gin. + Interesting liqueurs - No wheelchair access to restaurant

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The Kitchin

78 Commercial Quay, Leith, EH6 6LX (Map 5: C3, 7) 0131 555 1755, thekitchin. com | Tue–Sat 12.15–2.15pm, 6.45– 10.30pm. Closed Sun/Mon. HW £26; Kids (under 5); Wh. £26.50 (set lunch) / £50 (dinner)

A meal at Tom Kitchin’s muchacclaimed restaurant offers a taste of his vivid imagination. Cocooned within a sophisticated, smoky-blue cave, it feels intentionally separated from the outside world. Expectations are high, and generally they’re swiftly met. Setting the tone, a carpaccio of pig’s ear terrine comes with icy-sharp pickled cucumber, a hot, crisp cube of rillette, black pudding nuggets and the crunchiest crackling; it’s a harmony of textures, colours and flavours that adds up to more than the sum of its parts. North Sea squid is stuffed with confit lemon and earthy, emerald-green spinach. The intense flavour is a reminder that ingredients shine here because of their provenance as much as their preparation. At its best the food is beautiful, complex and playful, detailed to the point of surgical but not in a dry or over-wrought way. If the focus is food though, it’s sharpened by knowledgeable serving staff who inform and enlighten while striking a neat balance between formality and warmth. A meal at the Kitchin is an experience that will linger long in the mind - and while the full à la carte monty doesn’t come cheap, the set lunch deal has to be one of the best value food experiences in town. + Sensual and cerebral cooking that is a joy to eat - It’s popular – need to book ahead means spontaneity is not always an option

Established in 1991 by Chef Carlo Coxon. Specialising in local, seasonal produce.

Celebrating 21 Years

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Kyloe Restaurant & Grill

Rémy Martin VSOP Award for Best Newcomer in the UK SLTN restaurant of the year 2010 and 2011 Listed in The Sunday Times Top 10 Foodie Destinations One of The Daily Telegraph’s 2 Best Places to dine in Edinburgh

Wedgwood is more than just a restaurant, it is a hidden gem on Edinburgh’s prestigious Royal Mile. Paul and Lisa have a passion for food and hospitality and offer the complete dining experience in warm and intimate surroundings. • Open 7 days a week • Monday-Saturday 12-3pm/6pm until late • Sunday 12.30-3pm/6pm until late

• Open 7 days a week • Monday-Saturday 12-3pm/6pm until late

267 Canongate, Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8BQ Tel: 0131 55 88 737 www.wedgwoodtherestaurant.co.uk info@wedgwoodtherestaurant.co.uk

Magnum

Restaurant & Bar

The Magnum offers you a relaxing gastro bar and restaurant in the heart of Edinburgh’s New Town. Within a stone’s throw of the bustling city centre, The Magnum offers a lunch and dinner menu with a focus on freshly prepared local produce, complimented with wine selected from Magnum’s wine cellar.

Monday to Thursday open 12.00 pm - 12.00 am Friday and Saturday open 12.00 pm - 1.00 am Sunday open 12.30pm - 11.00pm Food served 12.00 pm - 3.00 pm then 5.30 pm - 10pm Voted 10th most popular hidden gems in the UK by toptable.co.uk Edinburgh Capital Silver Award 2009

1 Albany Street, Edinburgh, EH1 3PY 0131 557 4366

The Rutland Hotel, 1–3 Rutland Street, West End, EH1 2AE (Map 4: C2, 16) 0131 229 3402, kyloerestaurant.com | Sun– Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 8am–1am.] HW £18; Kids; Wh. £10 (set lunch) / £35 (dinner)

Kyloe, previously the Restaurant at the Rutland, has been reborn as a place for all things beef. Occupying a grand, first floor space, it’s decked out with cowhide booths and other bovine-themed furnishings. The playful interior, however, belies a self-declared mission to bring customers the best possible steak experience – something it’s striving for thoughtfully and with an up-to-the-minute approach. Provenance and butchery of the star ingredient are taken seriously (staff present the raw cuts of meat and talk through their varying characters) and it shows in the end result. Grass-fed Aberdeen Angus is offered in the usual permutations but alongside a board of unusual cuts (bavette, onglet, feather), all of which arrive perfectly medium rare and are a genuine treat. The rest of the menu is good too. An onion tart comes with melting alliums, crisp pastry and lactic Grimbister cheese. Equally good is a light, crisp fritto misto. Only a dish of skate wings disappoints, its flavours drowned in a sea of capers, but on the whole, Kyloe offers a lovely menu with well-sourced Scottish ingredients and some great cooking. + Fantastic steaks and dripping chips, carefully cooked and knowledgeably served - West End bovine glamour may not be everyone’s cup of tea

The Magnum Restaurant & Bar

1 Albany Street, New Town, EH1 3PY (Map 1: E4, 118) 0131 557 4366, themagnum.webeden.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10pm; Sun 12.30– 3.30pm, 6–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am; Sun 12.30–11pm.] Pre; HW £14.95; Kids. £12.95 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

A genuinely warm welcome and an impressive côte de boeuf are but two memorable highlights of a visit to the Magnum. Or, there’s the light, thin pastry of crab and Lammermuir smoked cheese tart and its unusual accompanying salad of red peppers and smoked mussels. Friendly service and a consistently reliable menu result in regular return visits from the New Town locals, Edinburgh ladies, lawyers, groups of friends and so on who make up the Magnum’s loyal customer base. Haggis spring rolls, Highland venison with black pudding and cranachan cheesecake may be an encouraging nod to tourists too, but are equally representative of the kitchen’s policy to source as locally as possible. Some dishes, Cullen skink, for example, may not be as skilfully executed as others, cheese is served with commercial oatcakes and vegetables are a weak point. Overall, however, turning to the Magnum for a relaxing meal out is a deservedly popular choice. + Easygoing atmosphere - More could be done with veg

McKirdy’s Steakhouse

151 Morrison Street, West End, EH3 8AG (Map 4: B3, 30) 0131 229 6660, mckirdyssteakhouse.co.uk | Sun–Thu 5.30–10pm; Fri/Sat 5–10.30pm. Pre; BYOB (£3); HW £13.50; Kids; Wh. £24 (dinner)

While certain steakhouses have moved elegantly into more upmarket pastures, McKirdy’s continues with its proven formula unchanged. In a modest setting

on Morrison Street, it’s all about the meat, not the décor. Delivering consistent quality beef benefits from a very short supply chain and Mckirdys’ owners are butchers too, a family business stretching back several decades. When the meat they supply to themselves hits the plate, it’s well cooked and tasty enough, hardly requiring a boost from half a dozen available sauces. A char-grilled T-bone comes with proper chips, and the standard garnish of rocket. Beerbattered onion rings deliver the necessary crispness, enclosing real onion. Starters include a ‘tower’ of haggis, neeps and tatties with a bourbon sauce. All very comforting. Burgers are covered too, from simple and unadorned, to the ‘black and blue’ where home-made black pudding hits blue cheese. Desserts highlight local Di Rollo ice-cream, cheese from Iain Mellis, as well as home-made cheesecake. A good selection of malts is on hand to toast this old favourite among those who prefer the nononsense route to good eating. + No-fuss approach to steak - Some side dishes lack finesse

Monteiths

57–61 High Street, Old Town, EH1 1SR See Bistros & Brasseries

The Mulroy

11a–13a William Street, West End, EH3 7NG See French

✱

Number One

1 Princes Street, New Town, EH2 2EQ (Map 2: C2, 2) 0131 557 6727, restaurantnumberone.com | Mon–Sun 6.30–9.45pm. HW £30; Kids; Wh. £64 (set dinner)

Nestled below the Balmoral Hotel, Number One is a little world of luxury. Blood-red lacquer walls are studded with a vibrant array of artworks, and all is softened by plush, mushroom-coloured furnishings. Bland hotel homogeneity is eschewed in favour of a more individual style that pervades the whole experience of quintessential fine dining pulled off with gusto. There is the requisite napkinflapping theatre that some love and others loathe but service is part of the pleasure – knowledgeable, warm and far from uptight. The food measures up, whether it’s a crisp and creamy amuse-bouche of goat’s cheese mousse in a wafer cylinder, or a main of dark, sticky oxtail with rich nuggets of foie gras and a blood orange and sherry jelly, presentation and cooking are precise and playful. A towering chocolate orange soufflé arrives light and billowing, alongside a very milky milk ice-cream. If your constitution and whimpering wallet allow then don’t let the beautiful dessert wine and cheese trolleys pass you by, and do repeat the mantra: ‘I must leave room for the petit fours’. + A perfectly orchestrated evening, from amuse-bouche to petit fours - Easy to spend more than intended when faced with a delightful dessert wine trolley and no price list

The Old Bell Restaurant

233 Causewayside, Southside, EH9 1PH (Map 3: H4, 65) 0131 668 2868, oldbelledinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sat 5.30–9.30pm; Sun noon–5pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am–midnight.] Pre; Kids. £11 (dinner)

This welcoming restaurant above a bar still has its dark wood, white tablecloths and walls covered with pictures, but chefs rule now they have taken over the running of the Old Bell. Their ambition is to provide Newington with fine dining on Scottish recipes using French and other European techniques – chef/proprietor

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Edinburgh Finlay Nicol spent five years working in Paris. For starters, traditional black pudding is sandwiched with pork belly in crisp croquettes and served with a grape compote, while bacon is added to the cream sauce for mussels. The beetroot relish which accompanies the smoked salmon starter reappears with their signature dish of nicely pink pan-roasted venison with a chocolate rosemary jus. Fennel-crusted whiting is moist and flaky and accompanied by wilted kale. A varied selection of desserts includes a smooth and creamy vanilla bean crème brûlée. Or there is crowdie bavarois, delicately flavoured with hazelnut syrup, coffee and whisky and coated with rolled oats. Alternatively, try the family-friendly carvery all Sunday afternoon. The chefs also provide the set menu for the bar downstairs. + Willingness of staff to adapt to customers’ individual tastes - Slightly oversalted kale

Restaurant Mark Greenaway at No 12 Picardy Place

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12 Picardy Place, New Town, EH1 3JT (Map 1: F4, 142) 0131 557 0952, markgreenaway.com | Tue–Sat noon– 2.45pm, 5.30–9.45pm. Closed Mon/Sun. Pre; HW £20; Kids. £16.50 (set lunch) / £32 (dinner)

Mark Greenaway’s take on dining is unashamedly modern. With deconstructed creations, foams, smokes and multi-ingredient theatrics aplenty, this is a sophisticated, highly confident offering. A starter of Loch Fyne crab cannelloni is a good introduction, served with a sealed glass bowl of cauliflower custard below and a bold puff of applewood smoke above. A mosaic of rabbit terrine is typically picture-perfect – tiny carrot meringues add crunchy dabs of sweetness. A ‘Tasting of Borders Lamb’ is a four-way affair, delivering a caramelised meaty hit in some cuts and rosy tenderness in others. A quartet of plaice mini-rolls rests on squid ink lasagne, with crisped squid and a blanket of saffron foam – a refreshing burst of lemon puree hits a citrusy high note. Desserts play the game of taking old faves apart and re-interpreting them by their parts rather than their sum. A ‘broken’ lemon tart is exploded into an ultra-geometric expression, including frozen shortbread, yuzu parfait and spots of pistachio puree. A jam jar arrives filled with multiple layers of rhubarb compote and jelly, and warm rice pudding. It raises a wry smile. And why shouldn’t good food do that? + Generous choice of wines by the glass - Not for the gastronomically conservative

Oloroso

33 Castle Street, New Town, EH2 3DN (Map 1: C6, 65) 0131 226 7614, oloroso. co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–3pm, 5.45–10pm; Sat noon–3pm, 5.45–10pm; Sun noon–3pm, 6–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun noon–midnight.] HW £20; Kids; Wh. £19.50 (set lunch) / £44 (dinner)

Borne by lift from the bright white office block entrance, you climb the last stairs to emerge in one of the best locations for a restaurant in Edinburgh. Stunning as the roof terrace is for a cocktail in summer, even on dark nights the panorama of lights outside is interesting. Inside, red and black décor creates a smart vibe. The menu is unashamedly biased towards meat, with an internationalist take on steaks and game. For starters, crunchy pickled vegetables are matched with meltingly slow-cooked pork belly. Deliciously soft herb croquettes are hidden in smooth celeriac, parsnip and apple velouté. A simply cooked breast of partridge comes with red cabbage and boudin noir, while garlicky quinoa shaped into a vivid green rectangle lifts the baked cod. Though there’s little for the lover of traditional puds, a range of alcoholic sorbets and rich sweet liquid dessert cocktails is offered instead and chocolate ice-cream is satisfyingly rich. For those who prefer a more savoury finale, cheese is served with a pile of wonderfully crisp, waferthin oatcakes. + Those oatcakes! - Cheese not up to the standard of the rest of the food

One Square

1 Festival Square, West End, EH3 9SR See Bistros & Brasseries

The Outsider

15/16 George IV Bridge, Old Town, EH1 1EE See Bistros & Brasseries

Plumed Horse

50–54 Henderson Street, Leith, EH6 6DE (Map 5: C5, 38) 0131 554 5556, plumedhorse.co.uk | Tue–Sat 12.30– 1.30pm, 7–9pm. Closed Sun/Mon. HW £20; Kids (under 8); Wh. £26 (set lunch) / £55 (set dinner)

The days when everyone was surprised by Leith’s culinary revolution are over; with so many destination restaurants clustered around the Shore the area is now accepted as something of a city breadbasket. Having shifted to the capital from rural Dumfriesshire in 2006, the Plumed Horse set up in Leith in a compact room of 40 covers, clean-lined and formal in powder-pale green with personality coming from the modern art

Restaurant at the Bonham

Kyloe Restaurant & Grill (page 92): pastures new for the Rutland Hotel

on the walls. The menus are set price – lunch is a good entry point from which prices rise to levels to be expected from a restaurant that held a Michelin star from 2009 to 2011. It attracts a slightly older crowd, a smart mix of special occasion diners and business suits, who come for European-influenced Scottish menus big on rich, luxurious flourishes involving fois gras and velvet-smooth veloutés. Menus change throughout the year, but dishes could include roast loin and slow braised breast of veal with kidney and bacon, wild garlic and leeks or a blood orange panna cotta with dark chocolate vinegar sorbet and almond brittle. [Not recently visited.]

The Pompadour

Caledonian Hilton, Princes Street, West End, EH1 2AB (Map 4: D2, 18) 0131 222 8777, thecaledonianedinburgh.com | Tue–Sat 7–9.45pm. Afternoon tea: Mon– Sun 2–5pm. [Bar open: 11am–1am.] HW £25; Kids; Wh. £29 (dinner)

With stunning views from its first floor vantage point on the corner of Lothian Road and Princes Street, the Pompadour should be destination dining. Currently being re-furbished as part of the Caledonian Hotel’s general make-over and up-grading, the fine dining room will re-open in late spring 2012, with the Galvin Brothers in charge. The Galvins already run Galvin at Windows, on the 28th floor of the London Hilton at Park Lane, which has similar white tablecloths and napkins, silver cutlery and classic stemware to the Pompadour. And don’t expect dramatic changes to the light, airy décor – the room is listed. [Not yet open at time of going to press.]

Purslane

33a St Stephen Street, Stockbridge, EH3 5AH (Map 1: B3, 25) 0131 226 3500, purslanerestaurant.co.uk | Tue–Sun noon–2.30pm, 6.30–11.30pm. Closed Mon. HW £14.50; Kids (under 6). £18 (lunch) / £21.95 (set dinner)

Purslane might well have a claim to be Edinburgh’s smallest restaurant, but that’s hardly cramping this newcomer’s style. Into a very cosy basement in Stockbridge – formerly Redwood – chef Paul Gunning is bringing the influences gathered from cooking as far afield as Australia. There’s a certain down-under fusion touch in his crispy chicken Asian salad with chilli and soy dressing. A delicate confit of salmon on a crab and celeriac ‘coleslaw’, with an excellent vanilla mayonnaise, shows another deft touch with flavours and textures. Meatstuffed squid with a fennel and tomato compote is a simple, light dish that is typical of Paul’s modest approach. There’s no cheffy showing-off on display here, but flavour enough and respect for good local ingredients. Pavé of rosé veal is pink-perfect, ringed by crisped gnocchi and wild-foraged leeks. The spatzle with roasted mushrooms and artichoke batons is an earthy vegetarian option, but spoilt by too-heavy salting. Finish your meal with a no-nonsense dense slab of bakewell tart or mini apple tarte tartins with a vanilla icecream. Overall, a big hand, for a small restaurant. + Good eating without breaking the bank - Keep your gossip to a whisper at closely-placed tables

35 Drumsheugh Gardens, West End, EH3 7RN (Map 4: B1, 1) 0131 226 6050, thebonham.com | Mon–Sat noon– 2.30pm, 6.30–10pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 6.30–10pm. HW £16.50; Kids; Wh. £16.50 (set lunch) / £34 (dinner)

Housed in a smart Victorian townhouse on a quiet residential street, the Bonham Hotel and eponymous restaurant host a mixed clientele of business folk, tourists and locals. The interior has a

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Edinburgh distinct boutique hotel vibe with giant lampshades and other contemporary furnishings grafted onto the handsome period features. In the kitchen, classically trained French chef Michel Bouyer uses well-sourced Scottish ingredients (especially fish) as the inspiration for his cooking, which is often Gallic at heart. Alsace influences are found in wellconceived dishes such as plaice with spatzle, tomato & shrimp or tender pork belly and loin with turnip sauerkraut, both executed with confidence and skill. Desserts are worth saving room for; hot chestnut soufflé is light (although arrives a little underdone) and pairs exceptionally well with nut praline and bitter chocolate sauce. The flexible menu which includes à la carte, a market menu and some wallet-friendly offers make this a good spot for a variety of occasions, from a special dinner to a quick business lunch. + Good cooking, good ingredients and a newly refurbished, cosy bar for a digestif - The occasional discrepancy in quality control at the pass

Restaurant Martin Wishart 54 The Shore, Leith, EH6 6RA See French

Rhubarb

Prestonfield House, Priestfield Road, Southside, EH16 5UT (Map 3: I3, off) 0131 225 1333, prestonfield.com | Mon–Thu noon–2pm, 6.30–10pm; Fri/ Sat noon–2pm, 6–11pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 6.30–10pm. HW £23; Kids; Wh. £16.95 (set lunch) / £43 (dinner)

A restaurant that transforms any visit into a special occasion, Rhubarb is one of Edinburgh’s most dramatic dining experiences. From a smiling, kilted welcome at the entrance to historic Prestonfield House (now a boutique hotel within which Rhubarb is a star attraction) diners are looked after in a style that’s naturally Scottish but of international contemporary calibre. After an aperitif in the Yellow Room, adorned with fresh yellow roses, dinner is served in an oval dining room resplendent with sparkling glassware and sumptuous pink-based décor. Scotland’s larder is prominent. Chicken is St Bride’s freerange, langoustine come from Mull, and the cheese in a smoked cheddar and beetroot royale – a mousse with slivers of crispy pastry – comes from Kintyre. Beef and mushroom consommé is elegantly served, and an example of the care given to visual appeal. Gressingham duck breast is roasted as expertly as its accompanying livers are pan-fried, and venison is spot-on, although a whole leek receives more dubious treatment. Puddings’ overall appeal is of a slightly

lower order, but cheese is a wellbalanced selection, whether Scottish, French or both. + Extremely comprehensive wine list - Too much sponge in Manjari chocolate torte

Ryan’s Cellar Restaurant

2–4 Hope Street, West End, EH2 4DB (Map 4: C1, 10) 0131 226 6669, ryansbar. com | Sun–Thur 5–10pm; Fri/Sat 5–10.30pm. Pre; HW £13.95. £20 (dinner)

Descend the stairs from the sometimes raucous Ryan’s Bar in the West End and you’re in a cellar restaurant sprawling across a number of rooms of different shapes and sizes. With Provençal-style murals and stacked wine boxes, the menu has a French accent but speaks Scottish fluently too. Arranged around a strong ‘Surf and Turf’ theme, the former includes a starter of smoked salmon tartare on blinis with a gentle dill, shallot and sour cream dressing. A four-part appetiser ‘surf and turf Melange’ offers a taste of both worlds: excellent steak tartare, smoked salmon tartare, tender beef carpaccio and a Marie Rose-dressed prawn or two. A well-cooked ribeye steak is almost dwarfed by a stack of fish finger-sized ultra-chunky chips, with a side order of onion rings equally mammoth. Scallops on top of black pudding topped with bacon is a satisfying combination, though a little lukewarm and with a rather watery sauce. Desserts include lemon cheesecake with lemon sorbet, or a good muffin-shaped carrot cake with pistachio ice-cream and walnuts. Upstairs or downstairs, Ryan’s a friendly character. + Downstairs doesn’t mean downmarket - Upstairs is never quite out of earshot.

The Scottish Café and Restaurant

National Gallery of Scotland, The Mound, New Town, EH2 2EL (Map 2: B2, 5) 0131 226 6524, thescottishcafeandrestaurant.com | Mon–Wed & Fri/Sat 9am–5pm; Thu 9am–7pm; Sun 10am–5pm. Veg; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh. £18 (lunch)

From its contemporary, light-filled space in the underbelly of Scotland’s National Galleries, the Scottish Café & Restaurant looks out serenely over the green and bustle of Princes Street Gardens. Created and run by the team behind Centotre, the focus here is appropriately on Scottish produce and cooking. A commitment to sourcing the best raw ingredients from specialist suppliers underpins an appealing and flexible menu. This spans from a weightier à la carte style selection of starters, mains and puddings to lighter café-like offerings such as

Restaurant Mark Greenaway (page 93): multi-ingredient theatrics

sharing platters, traditional butteries and salads. Expect to find starters such as a hot puff pastry tart in which Loch Arthur Creamery’s lovely ricotta is successfully married with Phantassie farm’s leeks and candied walnuts. Hearty mains include a delicious and generously portioned grilled beef rump from Inverurie, and a light, crisp and grease-free battered haddock and chips. Plenty of indulgent puddings are on offer and, as with the rest of the food, and as you would hope given the proximity to some of the nation’s finest paintings, they look as good as they taste. + Fantastic ingredients, flexible menu

and fine cooking - Not usually open in the evenings

The Skerries

Dunstane House Hotel, 4 West Coates, West End, EH12 5JQ (Map 4: A3, off) 0131 337 6169, dunstanehotels.co.uk | Mon– Sun 5.30pm–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am–11pm.] HW £15.95; Kids. £20 (dinner)

A recent refurbishment has given the Skerries a fresh lease of life. It’s all very Downton Abbey with ornate gilt mirrors, chandeliers, and rich fabrics. An impressive new bar and lounge has added to this elegant space, boasting a fine wall

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Edinburgh of malts. The owners’ Orcadian island roots haven’t been entirely swept away though, and fish, meat and cheese from both Orkney and Shetland still feature. A pot of mussels hails from the latter, and in a white wine and shallot broth it’s a starter that doesn’t let the islanders down. Chunky herb gnocchi is baked in a cheese sauce on fresh spinach, top-class comfort food. Orkney Gold rib-eye steak maintains the standard, cooked perfectly to order with a satisfying hint of charcoal grill. More elaborate, the pan-fried scallops, braised pork cheeks, Stornoway black pudding, crisp bacon and pear purée create an artful archipelago on the plate. Not just pretty to look at, but harmony by the forkful too. Desserts include Orkney ice-creams (a little icy) and a chocolate fondant with a melting middle and delicate biscuits. Bravo! + Grand without being grandiose - Less than upper crust bread

Stac Polly (Dublin Street)

29–33 Dublin Street, New Town, EH3 6NL (Map 1: E4, 120) 0131 556 2231, stacpolly.com | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 6–10pm; Sat/Sun 6–10pm. HW £18.95; Kids. £13.95 (set lunch) / £27 (dinner)

The steep slope of Dublin Street allows Stac Polly a double basement with windows to the front on both levels. Inside, there’s a comfy seating area with a private dining room on one side. On the other are stairs to the lower level warren of dining areas decorated and furnished like a shooting lodge without the antlers. The food continues this comfortable theme. Starters include smoked salmon wrapped round Arbroath smokie pâté in a roulade; the bright green drizzle of mild wasabi adds interest. The sweetness of carrot in a rosti sets off slices of seared partridge. For mains, nicely fishy ling fillets contrast with parma ham and the garnishing diced chillies are sweet rather than hot. The moist and well-flavoured baked pheasant comes with a substantial portion of mixed roasted vegetables as well as a tasty apricot skirlie stuffing. A smooth crème brûlée is delicately flavoured with orange and Grand Marnier. For chocolate fans, the terrine of milk and white chocolate is light as a mousse should be. + Scottish enough without being kitsch - No dessert wine by the glass

Stac Polly Bistro

38 St Mary’s Street, Old Town, EH1 1SX (Map 2: E3, 107) 0131 557 5754, stacpolly. com | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 6–10pm; Sat/ Sun 6–10pm. HW £17.95; Kids. £13 (lunch) / £21.95 (set dinner)

More casual than her New Town sister, the Bistro is bright and airy, with 1790s

caricatures of Edinburgh worthies as well as some architectural black and white photos of Edinburgh decorating the walls. The rear dining room has a high shelf of elegant metal vases containing calla lilies. While the menu shares some of the New Town dishes, others are presented differently. The breadcrumbed haggis bonbons are more like gobstoppers, but go surprisingly well with plum and coriander chutney. Red pepper and tomato soup is enlivened with just enough ginger. Sprigs of thyme in the jus threaten to dominate the main course lamb, but don’t. The breaded salmon sits atop fluffy potatoes which are scented rather than flavoured with dill and the accompanying curry sauce is mild and creamy. The fine beans served with both dishes are portions of veg rather than a garnish. Cranachan is layered in a glass like a sundae and is generous enough to share. Clootie dumpling is warm with sweet spices, but a bit low on the fruit. The vanilla egg custard is delicious. + Unfussy and relaxed - The toilets are a bit cramped

Steak

12 Picardy Place, New Town, EH1 3JT (Map 1: F4, 141) 0131 557 0952, steakedinburgh.com | Wed–Thu 5pm– midnight; Fri 5pm–2am; Sat 11am–2am; Sun 11am–6pm. Closed Mon/Tue. Pre/Post; BYOB (£5; Wed only); HW £17; Kids. £25 (lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Steak is one of a new wave of Edinburgh steakhouses influenced by the likes of London’s much-lauded Hawksmoor. It’s aiming for hi-octane glamour that would be more at home in the Meatpacking district in New York City, but Edinburgh could do with a dose of such glamour and ambition. This grand former nightclub has been cleverly divided by rope structures, which, along with butch banqueting tables, low lighting and a ton of candles, create much aesthetic drama. Pumping beats are turned up to eleven as are the flavours of the food. In fact, with all this style, you could be forgiven for wondering if there would be any substance. However, Jason Wright (previously of Ondine) has created a zeitgeisty menu with roast cockerel, truffled macaroni and punchy butter shrimp Caesar salad. Food as theatre is definitely a theme and certain dishes, like crêpe suzette, are prepared tableside. Provenance and butchery of the beef are well considered: 35-day hung cuts are offered on and off the bone in three breeds, Scottish Aberdeen Angus, Black Isle and Limousin. Seasoning and char-grilling are at the aggressive end of the spectrum, perhaps at the cost of more natural flavours, but then subtlety is not what this joint is about. + All dressed up and something to show

- The urge for a quiet, darkened room

afterwards

The Stockbridge Restaurant

54 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge, EH3 5AL (Map 1: B3, 30) 0131 226 6766, thestockbridgerestaurant.co.uk | Tue– Thu 7–9.30pm; Fri–Sat 6.30–9.30pm; Sun 7–9pm. Closed Mon. BYOB (£4; Sun eve only); HW £16.50; Kids. £28 (dinner)

Tucked into a two-room basement on St Stephen Street, the Stockbridge Restaurant is a quirky establishment. With its chic black walls, heavy golden drapes and luxurious table settings you could be forgiven for thinking you’ve entered a private boudoir. An upmarket and slightly formal atmosphere extends to a thoughtfully conceived and wellexecuted menu, which takes the best of local Scottish meat, game and fish and gives it a French influenced fine-dining treatment. A successful trio of duck starter matches a tea-smoked breast with confit leg and rich nougatine of foie gras while a main showcases venison in the form of perfectly seared and rosy loin paired with a dainty pasty, roast pear, celeriac purée and winey port sauce. A banana tarte tatin to finish doesn’t hit the high note that the classic apple version can but is good nonetheless. The choice of ordering from the slightly more complex (and more expensive) à la carte menu or a simpler, but nonetheless appealing, prix fixe is available every day except Saturday and allows useful flexibility according to occasion and budget. + Good ingredients, carefully cooked in swanky surroundings - Not open for lunch (except by special arrangement)

Sweet Melindas

11 Roseneath Street, Southside, EH9 1JH See Fish

Timberyard

10 Lady Lawson Street, EH3 9DS (Map 4: E3, 53) timberyard.co | Mon–Sun 8am–11pm. Veg; Kids; Wh. £12 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

A planned opening for June 2012, Timberyard is the ambitious fromscratch new bistro-restaurant from the Radford family, best known from their days steering Atrium and Blue on the floors above the Traverse Theatre. The new venture is nearby, in fact, in an empty and rather run-down warehouse site that many Edinburgh residents will remember as home to Lawson’s Timber, but a venue too for the Big Red Door arts centre and once as a costume store for the Royal Lyceum Theatre. The next

chapter is to be a family affair, with Andrew and Lisa joined by sons Ben, most recently chef at Café St Honoré, and Joe, along with daughter Abbie, taking kitchen, front-of-house and behind-the-scenes roles respectively. At the core of their philosophy will be simple, fresh, approachable all-day and evening food, but expect the fruits of inspirations from Copenhagen and the progressive edges of the London and New York scene to make themselves evident with an adjoining smokehouse, integral kitchen garden, indoor-outdoor courtyard, wood fires and strong recycling/reclaimed ethic. [Not yet open at time of going to press.]

Tower Restaurant

National Museum of Scotland, Chambers Street, Old Town, EH1 1JF (Map 2: C4, 60) 0131 225 3003, towerrestaurant.com | Mon–Sun noon–11pm. Pre; HW £21.50; Kids; Wh. £15.95 (set lunch) / £32.50 (dinner)

For the best view in the Southside, try the roof terrace of the Tower, looking over to the Castle. Inside, the National Museum’s restaurant has dark, glossy tables and a modern take on food. Like the crisp fish finger which really tastes of crab. Crunchy apple and walnut sets off a smooth delicate rabbit terrine. A cute chicken and mushroom bridie perches atop main course roast chicken and a colourful mix of bite-size root vegetables. As well a good helping of prawns, mussels and clams, the bouillabaisse has chunks of salmon, sea bass and plaice attractively piled in the richly flavoured stock base. Or, for two to share, there’s tranche of halibut or venison Wellington. The sharing theme is continued in a chocolate sharing plate; alternatively, cardamom ice-cream is the perfect complement to an orangey tart. The delicious white chocolate bombe has a flourless sponge base and is subtly flavoured with Baileys, candied hazelnuts placed on top. The petit fours – chocolate truffle, tablet – with the tea or coffee are a fitting end. + Those candied hazelnuts - Music can be a bit intrusive

Wedgwood the Restaurant

267 Canongate, Old Town, EH8 8BQ (Map 2: E3, 110) 0131 558 8737, wedgwoodtherestaurant.co.uk | Mon– Sat noon–3pm, 6–10pm; Sun 12.30– 3pm, 6–10pm. HW £16; Kids. £10 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

If you like your dining Scottish, but with international influences, the occasional cheffy twist, and a decent wine list, then Wedgwood will entertain. Paul Wedgwood’s creations are served in a relaxed atmosphere, in the bright

Dine within the unique and beautiful setting of 28 Queen Street and enjoy exquisite food with personable and unfussy service. Menu du Jour offer: 2 courses for £18.50 3 courses for £21.95 Please see our website for opening hours. 0131 220 2044 www.thediningroomedinburgh.co.uk The List Eating & Drinking Guide 95

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SCOTTISH

list.co.uk

Tapas Bar

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street-level room or downstairs in a cosy basement. Scottish seasonal produce is prominent, including foraged greens like scurvy grass and sea purslane. A starter of lobster thermidor crème brûlée is cool and silky, served with an icy Bloody Mary sorbet and parmesan biscuit. Scallops, hand-dived by the Ethical Shellfish Company, are paired with a swirl of vanilla squash purée. Venison is cooked perfectly pink, though the accompanying smoked aubergine purée might prove too aggressive for some. The coral from the scallop starter finds it way onto a plate of hake with wilted kale and a tomato coulis. Desserts range from a substantial ‘very sticky’ toffee pudding with thick butterscotch and Caol Ila Islay whisky sauce, to a more savoury goat’s cheese semifreddo with an excellent red onion marmalade and balsamic vinegar sorbet. It’s all a touch of much-needed class on the Royal Mile. + Modern take on good Scottish produce - Background music doesn’t always stay there

Whiski Rooms

4, 6 & 7 North Bank Street, Old Town, EH1 2LP (Map 2: C3, 30) 0131 225 7224, whiskirooms.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon– 10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–1am.] Veg; Pre; HW £16.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £9.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

6-8 Howden Street,Edinburgh EH8 9HL Tel: 0131 667 7033 www.el-bar.co.uk

Dance Studio & Venue Scotland’s only dedicated flamenco dance studio & venue flamenco classes for adults, children, all ages & abilities beautiful and contemporary air- conditioned dance studio delicious Spanish food & drink to enhance the flamenco experience! regular flamenco performances & entertainment throughout the year flamenco performers available for hire for parties & special celebrations stunning flamenco dance studio available for hire welcome to Edinburgh’s ‘Spanish Corner’

6-8 Howden Street,Edinburgh EH8 9HL Tel: 0131 667 7033 www.albaflamenca.co.uk

Despite sitting in the heart of tourist territory, Whiski Rooms attracts a mixture of diners including professionals, locals of all ages and students, as well as the expected flow of visitors. Created in 2011 from a former bank and bookshop, the Whiski Rooms is divided into three sections. A shop selling hundreds of whiskies and a bar that’s a popular stopping off point for a refreshment and a chance to admire the view account for two-thirds of the space. The other area, the dining room, is decorated in dark colours, with banquettes along each wall. The menu speaks of a chef with skill, using Scottish ingredients in an imaginative way. The list of starters includes haggis spring rolls with a plum sauce alongside more prosaic offerings such as grilled fillet of mackerel. For mains, Borders pork cooked three ways is artfully presented, while confit Barbary duck leg with cassoulet harks back to the entente cordiale. And creative talent is again evident in the dessert selection, with whisky crème brûlée and cranachan panacotta among the options. + Imaginative use of Scottish ingredients - (Loud) music is shared with the bar

Wildfire Restaurant and Grill

✱

192 Rose Street, New Town, EH2 4AZ (Map 1: B6, 49) 0131 225 3636, wildfirerestaurant.co.uk | Mon 5.15–10pm; Tue–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5.15–10pm; Sat/Sun 12.30–3.30pm, 5.15–10pm. HW £13.95; Kids (under 5. £11.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

There’s nothing wild about Wildfire. That’s an excellent thing. This little gem – nine tables in a cosy space – is worth discovering at the Charlotte Square end of Rose Street for its lack of pretension and gimmick. With a core steak-and-seafood offering, Wildfire also harvests what’s best through the year with a parallel seasonal menu. West Coast mussels are fresh and satisfying, in a herby wine sauce. Another starter of robust smoked haddock baked with strong Criffel cheese is a great combo. Char-grilled Aberdeen Angus rump steak is full of flavour, with a crispy mountain of shoestring fries, and a nonetoo-aggressive mustard sauce. The roast

confit duck leg melts from the bone. It’s anointed with a fine wine sauce, upon a mound of colcannon, with a thick slice of black pudding completing the substantial picture. Side dishes like garlicky green beans are no after-thought . Desserts are hot stuff, with crème brûlée clearly fresh from the blowtorch. A crêpe with caramelised bananas and toffee sauce is one very rich alternative. The cheese hails from the excellent Iain Mellis. It’s all good, as they say. + Unassuming excellence - Not enough elbow-room for some

The Witchery by the Castle

Castlehill, Royal Mile, Old Town, EH1 2NF (Map 2: B3, 28) 0131 225 5613, thewitchery.com | Mon–Sun noon–4pm, 5.30–11.30pm. Pre/Post; HW £21.50; Kids (after 7.30pm). £15.95 (set lunch) / £40 (dinner)

From its grand seat atop the Royal Mile, The Witchery’s lavishly designed suites and busy restaurant have been drawing a mix of locals and visitors for over 30 years. This medieval merchant’s house is graced with bespoke panelled ceiling, sumptuous tapestries and a galaxy of well-chosen antiques, all basking in the glow of a zillion candles. Yes, it’s theatrical but exquisitely realised and undoubtedly romantic. The restaurant itself is divided between two rooms: the Witchery and, downstairs, the Secret Garden. Both offer the same luxurious (and accordingly priced) à la carte, alongside a £30 set menu and famously epic wine list. Scottish ingredients of good pedigree feature in dishes such as a starter of Guy Grieve’s fantastic scallops – fishy nuggets of joy that arrive simply roasted with Iberico ham. A ‘Three Little Pigs’ main however sadly sees only one pig shining – the stuffed trotter is delicious but roast belly lacks unctuousness and a chop arrives overcooked. A sharing platter of indulgent puddings, including an excellent Trinity cream, redeems and will leave you ready for your (if you’re lucky) four-poster bed. + Gothic glamour and luxurious treats - Menu and cooking not always as assured as the atmosphere

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SPANISH

In association with

Edinburgh Veg; Pre; HW £15.45; Kids; Wh. £10.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

SPANISH With few restaurants older than a decade, Edinburgh’s small Spanish scene could still be considered in its formative years. It’s already a diverse and dynamic beast; brave little bastions of authentic Spanish cuisine compete with postmodern theme restaurants, serving tapas modified to suit the Scottish palate. San Sebastian-style fine-dining is available at one end of town, with rustic Sevillan home cooking at another. It may be wee just yet, but as it grows, Edinburgh’s Spanish scene just gets more and more exciting. Reviewer: Will Bain

Barioja

15–19 Jeffrey Street, Old Town, EH1 1DR (Map 2: E2, 102) 0131 557 3622, barioja. co.uk | Mon–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun noon– 10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–1am; Sun noon–1am.] Veg; HW £18.50; Kids. £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Barioja has been dishing out its albondigas for over a decade, so could be considered a pioneer of the still relatively youthful Edinburgh tapas scene. Sitting alongside its big sister restaurant, Iggs, it’s seen competition come and go over the years and stayed the course, although its reputation hasn’t always been consistent. As such it somehow lacks the well-worn and well-loved feel of such a venerable establishment, and doesn’t always buzz and hum like a tapas bar should. It does do a lot of things well, however; buying delicious wines and cured meats direct from producers in Spain, for example, or frying little squid rings without turning them into battered rubber bands. In fact the food is as good as it sounds: chicken cooked with sherry and paprika is tender and judiciously spiced, while haggis bon-bons have an appealing sticky richness under crisply fried breadcrumbs. Desserts follow suit, with smooth, orange-infused crema catalana and a buttery toffee sponge, laced with dates. Given a bit more buzz out front, Barioja could be with us for many years yet. + Diverse and well executed tapas - It just needs a bit more love

Café Andaluz

77B George Street, New Town, EH2 3EE (Map 1: C5, 68) 0131 220 9980, cafeandaluz.com | Mon–Sat noon–10pm; Sun 12.30–10pm.

This outpost of a successful Glasgow chain is the biggest of Edinburgh’s Spanish restaurants, and acts accordingly. It is Spanish dining at its most accessible, designed to fill seats and please crowds; something it does with aplomb. A multitude of Moorish tiles and lampshades ham up the Spanish theme nicely, giving a somewhat pastiche air of exoticism. Swift service is delivered by a large front of house team, while a big kitchen churns out a menu covering classic tapas and a range of paella to share. The food is neither outstanding nor underwhelming, but it’s consistent, and there is plenty of choice; from such stalwarts as gambas al pil-pil, lamb albondigas and an ever reliable tortilla to the slightly more adventurous escalivada (peppers, onions and aubergines stewed in oil) and carrillada de cerdo (pork cheeks cooked with chilli and honey). The tapas may not linger in the memory forever, but they do go down a treat with a glass of something Spanish, and go a long way towards making Café Andaluz a reliably easy place to enjoy. + Spanish food that the kids can enjoy - There’s no room for intimacy in a place this big

drinkers and dancers alike. + Delicious tapas in the company of a vibrant crowd - Making yourself heard above the vibrant crowd

✱

El Quijote

13a Brougham Street, Tollcross, EH3 9JS (Map 3: C1, 6) 0131 478 2856, quijotetapas.co.uk | Closed Mon; Tue– Thu 5–10pm; Fri–Sun 12.30–10pm. HW £12.50; Kids; T/A. £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

This modest little Brougham street restaurant is the sort of place you’d be happy to find in the narrow streets of Seville. Just as well, as that’s precisely what Andalusian owners Oscar Mateos and Maria Giminez set out to do. It’s not exactly smart, but it has no pretence to be, and its earthy tones, rough-hewn wood and clunky terracotta crockery are a charming enough backdrop for the buzzing, occasionally noisy, atmosphere. The short menu endeavours to bring something a little different to the Scottish tapas repertoire, so does away with tortilla and patatas bravas and brings

✱ HITLIST SPANISH ✱ Malvarosa Tapas are just as they should be at this seaside gem; small in size and big in flavour. ✱ El Quijote Rustic Andalusian dining with plenty of personality that gets you pining for the sun.

El Bar

6–8 Howden Street, Southside, EH8 9LH (Map 3: H1, 39) 0131 667 7033, albaflamenca.co.uk/elbar.html | Mon– Wed 5–10.30pm; Thu 5–11pm; Fri/Sat 5–11pm. Closed Sun. [Bar open: Mon– Wed 5–11pm; Thu 5pm–midnight; Fri/Sat 5–11pm. Closed Sun.] Veg; HW £12.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £15 (dinner)

Little L-shaped El Bar is the tapas bar and restaurant of Scotland’s only dedicated Flamenco school and studio, Alba Flamenca. It’s an unusual set-up, but one that’s won plenty of fans since its inception in 2008. Diners hoping for intimacy here might be a bit perturbed by stamping heels and occasional olés from the school, but they add plenty of atmosphere, and besides, this is a tapas bar and isn’t a place for hush. In fact many of El Bar’s regulars stay true to its roots (and name) by just going for a drink and a nibble of something on the side, though the hearty portions of enjoyably rustic food certainly warrant dinner for those that want it. From a seasonal specials board, squid ink rice with seafood and aioli is all dramatic colour and punchy flavours, while off the main menu, good old patatas bravas and croquetas de bacalao are both happily grease-free examples of these frequently badly treated dishes. Booking is advisable here; it’s only wee, and has a tendency to fill up quickly with diners,

El Bar: tapas for Scotland’s only dedicated Flamenco school and studio

Traditional Spanish Tapas Restaurant sted i l t i H 1 201 13 / A Brougham St EH3 9JS

t: 0131 478 2856 w: www.quijotetapas.co.uk

11 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH, EH10 4HN

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SPANISH

list.co.uk

Edinburgh

TABLE Talk : STEVEN SPEAR ON INSPIRATIONAL DINING My parents ran a restaurant on the Isle of Skye when I was young and when they closed at the end of the season we used to come down to Edinburgh in the October holidays. Part of their thing about coming to the ‘big smoke’ was to go and eat out in restaurants in town. I got to dine in some great restaurants at quite a young age. It was a real experience that you certainly couldn’t get back home – the Isle of Skye 15 years ago wasn’t really noted as a culinary destination. The whole experience of walking in and being greeted by the maître d’, speaking to the waiters and the waitresses and eating good food and – when I was old enough – drinking good wine, has always been enjoyable to me. I’ve always loved being in and working in restaurants and interacting with people. It’s great fun. The ultimate dish that stands out for me was one I tried while working at a restaurant in Amsterdam with Martin [Wishart, owner of The Honours]. It was on the tasting menu, and it was tartar of beef served with native Dutch oysters and chilled oyster velouté. The maître d’ matched it perfectly with a pinot bianco from Italy. That dish – and that wine, in particular – was such a brilliant combination. It was also the first time I had steak tartar, which was another unusual experience. The inspiring thing about it is that was eight or nine years ago, but that dish will stay with me for the rest of my life. People do come to restaurants and have meals or experiences that they will take away as a memory special. I think if we have one person leave as happy as I was, then we’ve done a great job. It’s what we do. We’re in the business of giving people a great time. ■ Steven Spear is the manager of The Honours (see page 38).

things of a more Andalusian bent. The thick, chilled soup Salmorejo is full of vibrant flavour and is as refreshing as a peach, while some delicious cuts of Iberico pork show that quality ingredients are taken seriously here. Desserts, unfortunately, don’t show great diversity – there’s custard or custard to choose from – but a glass of unctious, raisiny Pedro Ximinez sherry ends the meal happily with a delicious, boozy full-stop. + A bastion of Spanish cheer, with delicious food to boot - The Spanish cheer can be at the expense of intimacy

Iggs

15 Jeffrey Street, Old Town, EH1 1DR (Map 2: E2, 103) 0131 557 8184, iggs.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm, 6–10.30pm. Closed Sun. LC; HW £18; Kids. £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Iggs, Edinburgh’s grand old dame of Spanish fine dining, has gone through some changes of late. A recent visit from Channel 5’s Restaurant Inspectors has done away with some of its more individual aspects and given it a bit more mass-market appeal. The original, somewhat headachey interior, with its squiggly carpets and bright yellow walls, has been replaced by a neutral palette, while a revamp of the menu brings the fine-dining element down a notch, and offers more of the dishes as a tapas option. The food, unfortunately, isn’t consistently up to the standards dictated by the relatively high prices here; punchy flavour is lacking in a stuffed squid dish, and fresh tasting, deep fried hake is let down by its distinctly chewy batter. Thankfully there are highlights, such as the sumptuous home-made icecream accompanying a warm and crumbly almond torta. With its refined approach to Spanish cuisine, Igg’s remains unique in Edinburgh, though a little more enthusiasm from the kitchen would go a long way to show how good sophisticated Spanish food can be. + A menu where tapas meets fine dining - Chewing the batter on the hake

Indaba

3 Lochrin Terrace, Tollcross, EH3 9QJ See Round the World

✱

Malvarosa

262 Portobello High Street, Portobello, EH15 2AT, 0131 669 7711, malvarosa. co.uk | Wed–Sat noon–10pm; Sun 11am–9pm. Closed Mon/Tue. Veg; BYOB (£5; Sun eve only); HW £12.70; Kids; T/A. £7.90 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Until recently, Portobello’s links to Spain were pretty much limited to its name and a strip of sand. Madrid native Alvaro Bernabeu opened Malvarosa’s doors in 2011, and has gained an enthusiastic following since. Greeting guests with a wry smile and many a cheeky comment, Bernabeu and his chef James Benin dish out delicious tapas that could be as close as Edinburgh gets to this inherently Mediterranean way of eating. Dishes come as thick and fast as the kitchen can deliver, provided Bernabeu can be distracted from chatting to the customers for long enough to bring them to table. Highlights might include txoripan, a warm, flaky bread studded with nuggets of chorizo, or silky fillets of hake with high-toned salsa verde, or dense, delicious albondigas, with a well-reduced, garlicky sauce. Best though are the patatas: crisp and fluffy and with an earthy flavour that only

comes from careful sourcing. Desserts lamentably aren’t up to the same standard – chocolate cake is nice and gooey, but lacks intensity – but all that really means is that you can focus on ordering more tapas. + A seaside resort with lovely tapas. Yes, in Edinburgh - Desserts a bit of an afterthought

Rafael’s

2 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge, EH4 1LY (Map 1: A3, 21) 0131 332 1469, rafaels-bistro.wikidot.com | Tue–Sat 6.30–10pm. Closed Sun/Mon. BYOB (£5); HW £14.95. £22.50 (dinner)

Descending into this Stockbridge basement restaurant is a bit like entering the house of some idiosyncratic but much-loved aunt. It’s resolutely unfashionable, drastically dated and intensely peach in colour, but you can’t help liking it. It’s as warm and welcoming as a family home, an atmosphere that has kept Rafael’s busy and popular for a decade now. Chef Patron, Rafael Torrubia, works hard in his tiny kitchen, creating a daily changing menu that sits somewhere between haute cuisine and Spanish home cooking. A starter of huevos al horno – eggs baked with diced vegetables – is clean, lively and uncomplicated, as is a dish of panfried char with a fragrant fennel sauce. As it’s a one-man show in the kitchen, this sort of simple, understated cooking is a wise choice, but unfortunately the care it requires isn’t evident in every dish. A duck breast, for example, is tasty but hard work to chew, and appears with just the same sauce espagnole that accompanied a morcilla starter. If such culinary slipups don’t phase you, though, Rafael’s guarantees an enjoyably familiar experience. + Relaxed, welcoming and unselfconsciously kitsch - The cooking is sometimes no more up to date than the décor

Tapa Barra y Restaurante

19 Shore Place, Leith, EH6 6SW (Map 5: C4, 32) 0131 476 6776, tapaedinburgh.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon– 9pm; Fri/Sat noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–11pm.] Veg; HW £12.50; Kids; Wh. £10 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Surrounded by the Michelin stars and old-fashioned pubs of Leith, Tapa comes as a bit of a breath of fresh air. This converted dockhouse has a clean, airy interior, high ceilings and whitewashed walls, and feels summery even in the depths of winter. A strong crowd of regulars come for the reliably unfussy tapas and stay for a drinks menu that evokes memories of sunnier climes, even if Sangria on a rainy day in Leith doesn’t quite cut it. There’s a small globe-trotting section in the otherwise conservative tapas menu, offering dishes such as fried brie or moroccan lamb chops. The latter, while tender and sweet, lack the promised Moorish touch and fall a bit flat. The old favourites, however, are more reliable: Pisto Manchego, a sort of Spanish ratatouille, is a lovely herby, rich and giving dish, while Calamaris are crisp and fresh and cooked to a T. Portions here stray beyond tapas and into raçiones, and sharing six or seven between two can feel a little overwhelming, so pick wisely, and be prepared to fill your boots. + Tasty and enormous tapas that can work out good value for money - Some dishes could do with a little more attention to detail

TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY This section highlights some of Edinburgh’s better options for eating in the comfort of your own home – whether you’re after the exotic flavours of South-East Asia or the Indian continent, or just the comfort of a pizza or fish and chips. Bear in mind that many of the restaurants featured elsewhere in this guide offer good takeaway and delivery options – there’s a Tiplist here with a few options, and you can look out for the symbols in the details at the top of each entry.

L’Alba D’Oro/Anima

5–11 Henderson Row, New Town, EH3 5DH (Map 1: C2, 13) 0131 557 2580 (L’Alba D’Oro) 0131 558 2918 (Anima), lalbadoro.com/ www.anima-online. co.uk | Both: Mon–Sun 5–11pm; in addition, Anima: Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm. Delivery details: Minimum order £5. Delivery £2.50. Only to EH1–EH9. Delivery orders accepted till 10.30pm, pre-ordering available.

Opened in 1975 by Filippo and MariaCeleste Crolla, L’Alba d’Oro is a proper old fashioned local chippy, supplying New Town residents with a stream of fish suppers, pies and puddings, chip butties and other deep-fried delights. With plenty of vegetable options, different varieties of fish to choose from (crumbed or battered, single or supper) and swift service, it’s no surprise that they have acquired a loyal following. Next door, Anima is a shinier, more modern creation and is run by son Gino. As well as numerous made-to-order pizzas and pastas, there are salads, sandwiches and daily specials which might include risotto or pasta. There’s even a decent range of ice-creams and cakes and a reasonably priced wine list to round off your order. Fish Supper (£5.80)

Appetite Direct

42 Howe Street, New Town, EH3 6TH See Sandwich Bars feature in Cafés

Assam’s Café

1 Albert Street, Leith, EH7 5HN (Map 1: H2, off) 0131 555 4000, assamscafe. co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–10.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm; Sun 2pm–10.30pm. Delivery details: Free over £15; 6-7 mile delivery radius See Indian

Bluerapa Thai

6 Torphichen Place, West End, EH3 8DU (Map 4: B3, 24) 0131 629 0447, bluerapathai.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun 5.30–10.30pm. Delivery details: £1.50 charge, maximum 5 mile radius See Thai

Bollywood: The Coffee Box

99a Bruntsfield Pl, Southside, EH10 4HG See Indian

Cardamom

178a Easter Road, Leith, EH7 5QQ (Map 1: H2, off) 0131 661 7199, cardamomindiantakeaway.co.uk | Mon– Sun 4.30pm–11.30pm. Delivery details: Free on orders over £10, 10% discount for online ordering

The parallel lines of Easter Road and Leith Walk are arguably the best in Edinburgh for takeaway food. One of the latest entries to this ultra-

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✱ HITLIST TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY ✱ Los Cardos Serves up mix and-match Tex-Mex flavours that are fast, fresh and tasty. ✱ Silver Bowl Reliable and sparky fresh Thai and Chinese with a big menu and slick delivery. ✱ Sonar Gao Bangladeshi specials from a Leith hot spot. ✱ Spoilt for Choice Some new soul food for the capital with exciting Afro-Carribean flavours. 2.30pm, 5–11.30pm; Sun noon–2.30pm, 5–10.30pm. Delivery details: Free (within 3 miles), minimum order £20 See Indian

Tupiniquim (page 86): bringing Brazilian flavours to a converted police box at the top of Middle Meadow Walk

competitive market, Cardamom, is already building a strong local following. A converted shop front, the bright, warmly coloured interior is softened by draped muslin and a comfy couch to relax in while you wait. The considerable list of ‘Cardamom Specialities’ showcase the owner’s North Indian roots, but cater to almost every taste. Haryali massala is ideal for the korma-lover craving something more fragrant while a hop over the border into Nepal gives inspiration for the spicy and delicious Kathmandu chicken. Karahi Lamb (£6.35)

Chop Chop

• 76 Commercial Street, Leith, EH6 6LX (Map 5: C3, 8) 0131 553 1818 • 248 Morrison Street, West End, EH3 8DT (Map 4: B3, 27) 0131 221 1155 Delivery details: City-wide. No delivery charge. Member and voucher discounts. See Chinese

Cinnamon

249 Portobello High Street, Portobello, EH15 2AW, 0131 669 5090, cinnamonedinburgh.co.uk | Sun–Thu 5–11pm; Fri/ Sat 5–11:30pm. Delivery details: From 5pm - 7 days a week, free delivery over £15

Located in an unassuming shop front at the quiet end of Portobello High Street, Cinnamon is dominated by the busy, open, stainless-steel kitchen where food is prepared to order as you wait and watch. Cinnamon boasts a ‘taste of modern India’ and as well as the usual selection of sauces, from creamy korma to steamy vindaloo, it offers a full range of seafood, tandoori and vegetarian specials, long lists of starters, sides and breads and some great-value biryanis and banquets. Home delivery is free for orders over £15, however collection is recommended here as those waiting are kept well entertained by the ‘floor show’ from the open kitchen. Lamb Biryani (£7.95)

La Favorita

325–331 Leith Walk, Leith, EH6 8SA (Map 1: H2, off) 0131 555 5564, lafavoritadelivered.com | Mon–Thu 4.30–11pm; Fri–Sun noon–11pm. Delivery details: postal areas EH1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8 & 15. Order costing less than £40 are charged £1.50. £2 to EH 4 and 9. Free for delivery over £40.

A slick and confident operation based halfway down Leith Walk, La Favorita’s pizzas have set a marker for the genre in Edinburgh, the blast of heat from proper wood-fired ovens giving the dough its distinctively smoky flavour and charred edge. Now available in two sizes – 10-inch and 14-inch – the baseline margherita at stands by the classic Italian insistence on few ingredients, chosen well. There’s little wrong with this option, but toppings can get quite sophisticated – cacio e pere, for example, has pecorino and pear, with no tomato sauce, and there’s no shortage of choice, with pastas, side dishes and gluten-free options. 14-inch Margherita D.O.P (£7.25)

Gandhi’s

50 East Fountainbridge, West End, EH3 9BH (Map 4: D4, 56) 0131 228 6666, gandhisrestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–2pm, 5–11pm. Delivery details: Free for orders over £15, £1 otherwise See Indian

Golden Bridge

16 Henderson Street, Leith, EH6 6BS (Map 5: C5, off) 0131 467 5441/ 07850 340 905, goldenbridgerestaurant. co.uk | Sun–Thu 5.30–10.30pm; Fri/Sat 5–11.30pm. Closed Mon. Delivery details: £1.50 (local only) See Chinese

Indian Lounge

129a Rose Street, New Town, EH2 3DT (Map 1: C6, 66) 0131 226 2862, indianloungeedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Thu 1pm–midnight; Fri/Sat noon–2.30pm,

5pm–midnight; Sun 3pm–midnight. See Indian

The Indian Cavalry Club

22 Coates Crescent, West End, EH3 7AF (Map 4: B2, 21) 0131 220 0138, indiancavalryclub.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–11.30pm. Delivery details: No charge, minimum order £15 See Indian

Kwok Brasserie

44 Ratcliffe Terrace, Causewayside, Southside, EH9 1ST (Map 3: H5, 67) 0131 668 1818, kwokbrasserie.com | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 5–11.30pm; Sat/Sun 5pm–12.30am. Delivery details: From £1.30 See Chinese

Lancers Brasserie

The Newington Traditional Fish Bar

23 South Clerk St, Southside, EH8 9JD (Map 3: H2, 54) 0131 667 0203, newingtontraditionalfishbar.co.uk | Sun– Tue 4.30–11pm; Wed/Thu noon–2.30pm, 4.30pm–1am; Fri/Sat 4.30pm–2am.

Nothing can make you feel more cheated than a bad chippy. All it takes is fresh cooking, clean oil, a crisp chip and a grown-up attitude to sourcing: all boxes the Newington Fish Bar ticks. Cod and haddock still slip into the fryer, but Fish of the Week introduces less pressured species like coley and mackerel. Excellent value daily deals appeal to the student population, and coeliac Wednesday and Sundays widen the net in terms of audience. After watching your catch cooked in fresh veg oil, there’s seating downstairs to make more of a meal of the traditional fish supper.

5 Hamilton Place, Stockbridge, EH3 5BA (Map 1: A3, 22) 0131 332 3444, lancersbrasserie.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon– 2.30pm, 5.30–11.30pm. Delivery details: Free for orders over £18, otherwise £3 See Indian

9 Cellars Thali

Loon Fung

Ocean Spice

2 Warriston Place, Canonmills, Inverleith, EH3 5LE (Map 1: C1, 2) 0131 556 1781/557 0940 | Mon–Thu noon–11pm; Fri noon–midnight; Sat 2pm–midnight; Sun 2–11pm. Delivery details: £1.50–£3.50, depending on area See Chinese

✱ Los Cardos

281 Leith Walk, Leith, EH6 8PD (Map 1: H2, off) 0131 555 6619, loscardos.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–9pm; Fri/Sat noon–10pm. Delivery details: £1.50 See Mexican

Namaste Kathmandu

17–19 Forrest Road, Old Town, EH1 2QH (Map 2: C4, 61) 0131 220 2273, namastektm.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–

1–3 York Place, New Town, EH1 3EB (Map 1: E4, 116) 0131 557 9899 | Sun/ Mon 5.30–11pm; Tue–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5.30–11pm. Delivery details: Free within 1-mile radius See Indian

3 Annfield, Newhaven, Leith, EH6 4JF (Map 5: A2, off) 0131 551 2700, oceanspice.co.uk | Tue–Sun, 4.30–11pm.

The name denotes its Firth-side location, rather than a leaning towards seafood, but Edinburgh’s newest Indian takeaway is already building up a deservedly decent reputation for its fare. Owned and run by the young and upbeat Tony Landa, Ocean Spice’s aim is to concentrate on a small number of classics – supplemented by a dozen speciality curries – to ensure all are consistently cooked well. Indeed, even if the menu fits snugly on a sheet of A5, there are plenty of tempting options – both from the subcontinent and further afield – and the North Indian garlic chicken is impressively rich and punchy for those who appreciate both full-on flavour and brow-mopping heat. The List Eating & Drinking Guide 99

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Edinburgh Ricebox

28 Easter Road, EH7 5RG (Map 1: H3, off) 0131 661 1946, ricebox.biz | Mon–Sun 4.30pm–midnight. Delivery details: Free citywide; minimum order £10.

Easter Road’s Ricebox is a top-quality Chinese takeaway. The menu is as extensive as you could hope for, with a variety of standard and inventive dishes including a thorough range of pak choi and tofu options. Meals can be delivered or picked up and are completed with complementary movie-style fortune cookies and wooden chopsticks. Helpfully, Ricebox marks its menu with gluten-free choices and options where they can use the gluten-free soy sauce substitute tamari, if requested. Spicy dishes, meals containing nuts and veggie dishes are highlighted on the menu as well. Online ordering is also available. Shredded beef with green peppers and chilli sauce (£5.20)

Rivage

126–130 Easter Road, Leith, EH7 5RJ (Map 1: H3, off) 0131 661 6888 | Mon–Sat noon–2pm, 6–11pm; Sun 12.30–2pm, 6–11pm. Delivery details: Free See Indian

Ruan Siam

48 Howe Street, New Town, EH3 6TH (Map 1: C4, 41) 0131 226 3675, ruanthai. co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5.30– 10.30pm; Sun 5.30–10.30pm. Delivery details: Free for orders over £15. 15% discount on menu price. See Thai

Saigon Saigon Restaurant

14 South St Andrew Street, New Town, EH2 2AZ (Map 1: E5, 105) 0131 557 3737, saigonrestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10.30pm. Delivery details: £1 as far as EH14; 5.30– 10.30pm Fri–Sun, Mon–Thu 6-10pm. See Chinese

Shapla

87 Easter Road, New Town, EH7 5PW (Map 1: H3, off) 0131 652 0405, shaplatakeaway.co.uk | Mon–Sun 5–11.30pm. Delivery details: 50p within two miles; £1 otherwise

The ever-reliable Shapla is still going

TIPList RESTAURANTS THAT DELIVER • Britannia Spice Setting sail with regional Indian favourites 69 • Chop Chop Dumplings at the double 55 • Guchhi Indian Seafood and Bar Spicy seafood out of Leith 69 • The Indian Cavalry Club Here comes the curry cavalry 70 • Origano Big sharing pizzas from a new Leith Italian 78 • Ruan Siam Thai treats direct from a New Town stalwart 103

strong after 19 years serving top-notch Bangladeshi cuisine and regional Indian specialities. Chef Abdul Kabir makes a selection of traditional dishes from his homeland alongside accessible favourites, all prepared with fresh herbs and spices for a homely, different-everytime taste. Particularly recommended are the cheek-pinchingly hot North Indian chilli garlic chicken or the milder green herb lamb in a sauce based around tomatoes, peppers and coriander, while dishes done in the seriously hot tandoor are particularly strong. A spectrum of starters and sides includes everything from puffy puri to proper kebabs or you can round things off with sensuously sweet gulab jamon. Order online or pop in for service that’s always smooth, smiling and punctual. Chicken Ceylon (£5.75)

✱ Silver Bowl

• 12 Albert Place, Leith Walk, Leith, EH7 5HN (Map 1: H2, off) 0131 554 9830, silverbowl.co.uk | Tue–Sun 5pm– 11.30pm. Closed Mon. • 311 Leith Walk, Leith, EH6 8SA (Map 1: H2, off) 0131 554 5709, silverbowl. co.uk | Sun–Thu 5pm–midnight; Fri/Sat 5pm–1am. • 135 Restalrig Road, Leith, EH7 6HN (Map 5: E5, off) 0131 554 3643, silverbowl. co.uk | Sun/Mon 5pm–midnight; Wed/ Thu 5pm–midnight; Fri/Sat 5pm–1am. Closed Tue. Delivery details: £2.50 delivery charge

With three branches in the area, Silver Bowl has something of a monopoly in Leith when it comes to Chinese and Thai take-away. Thai is available from the Albert Place branch, while Chinese can be picked up or delivered from the other two. Booking can be made easily online or by telephone. Menus for both types of cuisine are extensive, with a solid mix of old classics and in-house creations. Dishes are served with liberal helpings of fresh crunchy veg added into sauces. Expertly made starters and sides – such as the particularly accomplished vegetable tempura – help to confirm Silver Bowl as a reliable takeaway that more than deserves its local popularity. Chicken with cashew nuts (£4.70)

✱ Sonar Gao

9DH (Map 2: E4, 85) 0131 556 6583, suruchirestaurant.com | Mon–Sun 11am–2pm, 5–11pm. • 121 Constitution Street, Leith, EH6 7AE (Map 5: D5, 35) 0131 554 3268, suruchirestaurant.com | Mon–Thu 11am–2pm, 5–10pm; Fri/Sat 11am–2pm, 5–11pm; Sun 11am–2pm, 5–10pm. Delivery details: Free for orders over £15 See Indian

The Tailend Restaurant and Fish Bar 14–15 Albert Place, Leith, EH7 5HN (Map 1: H2, off) 0131 555 3577, tailendrestaurant.com | Mon–Sun noon–10pm.

Opened by a partner in the original famed Anstruther Fish Bar, the Tailend latched onto a format of smarter chippie that is carving out a market in different parts of Scotland. Don’t expect silver cutlery and napkin-flicking – the takeaway box of haddock, chips and mushy peas remains but there’s also a tabled seating area and much more than the usual deep-fried pizza on the menu. Sustainable sourcing has led to a wider than usual seafood range, including a specials board advertising the likes of sole, sea bass and rock turbot. The regular menu similarly takes the strain off cod and haddock with calamari, hake and monkfish available cooked to order in a light, crisp batter, breaded, or simply grilled. The all-important chips are a matter of pride, fried only in unadulterated beef dripping to crunchy, fluffy perfection. Fish Supper (£4.80)

The Tattie Shop

3 Viewforth Gardens, Bruntsfield, West End, EH10 4ET (Map 3: A3, 31) 0131 228 5282, thetattieshop.co.uk | Mon–Sun 9am–9pm. See Sandwich Bars feature in Cafés

Thai Pod

20 Leopold Place, London Road, EH7 5LB (Map 1: H3, 149) 0131 556 3406, thaipod.co.uk | Tue–Thu 5–10pm; Fri/Sat 5–10.30pm; Sun 5–10pm. Closed Mon. Delivery details: from £1.25; orders to EH11, 14, 15, 17 and further should phone to confirm

The takeaway arm of London Road’s Thai Pad, the same kitchen and chefs are responsible for a menu with mains helpfully broken down into Thailand’s culinary regions. Mixed starters are very generous in quantity, and include a beautifully flavoured, if slightly greasy, fish cake, very messy ribs and impressively moist chicken satay. Moo yang is a speciality: marinated pork in a dark, sweet sauce, it’s rich and could be wonderful with less fatty meat. The list of stir fries is long and well explained, and fish dishes are very reasonably priced. Online ordering is efficient, and delivery is generally within the hour. Gaeng kiew wan (£6.15)

Thai Orchid

5A Johnston Terrace, Old Town, EH1 2PW (Map 2: B3, 33) 0131 225 6633, thaiorchid.uk.com | Mon–Sun noon– 10.45pm. Delivery details: 10% discount on takeaway See Thai

Tupiniquim

The Green Police Box, Middle Meadow Walk, Lauriston Place, Old Town, EH1 9AU (Map 2: C5, 66) , tupiniquim.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–6pm; Sat 10am–4pm. Closed Sun. See Round the World

Turkish Kitchen

120–122 Rose Street South Lane, New Town, EH2 4BB (Map 1: B6, 52) 0131 226 2212, myturkishkitchen.co.uk | Mon–Thu 11am–2.30pm, 5pm–1am]; Fri/Sat 11am– 3am]. Closed Sun. See Round the World

The Verandah Tandoori

17 Dalry Road, West End, EH11 2BQ (Map 4: A3, 33) 0131 337 5828, theverandah.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon– 2.30pm, 5–11.45pm. Delivery details: Free; minimum order £15 See Indian

Voujon

107 Newington Road, Southside, EH9 1QW (Map 3: H3, 63) 0131 667 5046, voujonedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–

191 Great Junction Street, Leith, EH6 5LQ (Map 5: B5, 39) 0131 555 2424, sonargao.com | Mon–Sun 5–11pm. Delivery details: Free for orders over £8; no delivery after 10.45pm

Since opening its doors in 2004, this family-run Bangladeshi restaurant’s fame has slowly spread from its Leith base to the further reaches of the city, and it is now consistently touted among the capital’s top takeaways. Offering an eye-watering selection of mouthwatering options for those who aren’t shy to try new flavours, it is easy to see why. Recommendations include starters such as aloo chat: spicy potatoes with cucumber and coriander, while for mains it is well worth trying a Bangladeshi speciality, such as Sathkora Gusht – spring lamb cooked with lemon, garlic, onions and steeped in all manner of Subcontinental spice. Veg pakora, chicken tikka balti, pilau rice (£10.35)

✱ Spoilt for Choice

19 Marionville Road, EH7 5TY (Map 1: H3, off) 0131 661 1183, spoiltforchoice1. com | Tue–Thu & Sun 5pm–11pm; Fri/Sat 5pm–11.30pm. Closed Mon. Delivery details: £1.50 within 2 miles; Sliding scale for distances beyond See Round the World

Suruchi

• 14a Nicolson Street, Old Town, EH8

Passorn (page 102): Cindy Srisotorn’s angelic Thai restaurant lights up Tollcross

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Edinburgh 2pm, 5.30–11.30pm. Delivery details: Free for orders over £15 within two-mile radius See Indian

Wing Sing Inn

147–149 Dundee Street, Tollcross, EH11 1BP (Map 3: A2, off) 0131 228 6668 | Mon– Fri noon–11pm; Sat/Sun 5pm–11pm. Delivery details: £1–£3.50 See Chinese

Xanadu Chinese Restaurant

13–14 Dalziel Place, Meadowbank, New Town, EH7 5TP (Map 1: H3, off) 0131 661 8981, xanadurestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Thu 5–11pm; Fri noon–2pm, 5–11pm; Sat/Sun 5–11pm. Delivery details: £1.50 See Chinese

Zen Kitchen

138 Dundas Street, New Town, EH3 5DQ (Map 1: C2, 12) 0131 556 9988, zenkitchen.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 5pm–11pm; Sat/Sun 5pm–11pm. Delivery details: Delivery £1 upwards. No postcode restrictions although longer distances may have a higher charge.

Zen kitchen serves up unique pan-Asian cuisine. The premises are bright and sleekly designed and the well-laid out menu outlines cooking times, spice levels and potential allergies as well as identifying the origin of each dish. The menu includes small bites, noodles, rices, curries and various house specialities. Of these, the shredded sesame beef is crisp and tangy while a Thai-style satay has tender meat in a well-balanced sauce. With no added colouring, MSG or preservatives the food is fresh and the flavours are vibrant. On weekday lunchtimes there are daily ‘lunchbox’ specials; boxes chosen from a small buffet selection. Filipino pork stir-fry; chow mein with beansprouts (£9.05)

Zest

15 North St Andrew Street, New Town, EH2 1HJ (Map 1: E4, 115) 0131 556 5028, zest-restaurant.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon– 2pm, 5.30–11pm. Delivery details: Free; minimum order £12 See Indian

THAI Edinburgh’s collection of Thai restaurants may have some features in common: carved carrot flowers, tableside orchids and golden Buddhas. But each restaurant stamps its own personal style by individualising classic dishes. The following restaurants range from trendy eateries to familyrun establishments. Each one guarantees a generous plateful and a warm welcome. Reviewers: Stan Blackley, Theresa Muñoz

Absolute Thai

22 Valleyfield Street, Tollcross, EH3 9LR (Map 3: C1, 14) 0131 228 8022, absolutethai.co.uk | Mon–Sat 5–10pm. Closed Sun. Pre; BYOB (£2.50); T/A. £19 (dinner)

The Tollcross area of Edinburgh isn’t short of Thai restaurants. Absolute Thai is hidden away down a side street but still stands out from the crowd through its unpretentious feel, reasonable prices and BYOB approach to booze. Since opening in 2009, this small, welcoming, family-run restaurant has gained popularity with returning theatregoers and cost-conscious locals. The traditional menu is suspiciously large, but the small size of the kitchen ensures a turnover of fresh, locally sourced ingredients. A starter of chunky, deep-fried sweetcorn cakes comes with a flavoursome curry sauce, while a salad of king prawns is served with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, mango and a zingy chilli and lime dressing. A main of spicy duck sees a generous portion of crispy-skinned yet melt-in-the-mouth duck slices stir-fried with aubergine in a punchy basil and rice wine sauce. This place will remain popular with those who prefer their food on the spicier side, and those looking for a great value pre-theatre deal. Absolute Thai? Absolute-ly. + Big flavoured, good value food in unassuming surroundings - Second generation service may be slightly too relaxed for some

Celadon

49–51 Causewayside, Southside, EH9 1QF (Map 3: H3, 61) 0131 667 1110, celadonrestaurant.co.uk | Tue–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5:30–11pm; Sun 5.30– 11pm. Closed Mon. Pre; HW £13.50; Kids; T/A. £7.99 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

A stone’s throw from the Meadows, Celadon boasts a calming atmosphere and delightful dishes. Apple-green walls, ribbon-bound napkins and stout wooden tables fill up the two dining sections. Pre-theatre and banquet menus are priced reasonably at £12.99 and £ 19.95/ £24.95. The à la carte offers more tempting options, such as the mixed starter platter. Of a selection of a shrimp and crab parcel, pork rib, fish-cake, chicken satay and a spring roll, the coconut-flavoured tempura prawn is the clear winner. For mains, diners can choose from a range of curries, seafood, duck or noodle dishes. Recommended is the Massaman curry which features braised lamb in a golden peanut sauce. The meaty shank, still on the bone, provides a pleasing contrast to the smooth and spicy broth. Likewise a crisp banana fritter, softened by coconut ice-cream, does not disappoint. Kindspirited staff greet guests upon entrance and departure. With its tranquil ambience and well-seasoned dishes, Celadon is certainly a place one can depend on. + Charming service and setting - Slightly unadventurous menu

Chang Thai Restaurant

29 Cockburn Street, 1 Craig’s Close, Old Town, EH1 1BN (Map 2: D3, 11) 0131 225 7007, changthai-restaurant.co.uk | Daily noon–3pm & 5–10.30pm. Veg; Pre; BYOB (£5); HW £12.95; Kids; T/A. £7.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

✱ HITLIST THAI ✱ Dusit First class visual aesthetics and palate-pleasing dishes served in a lively and contemporary setting. ✱ Leven’s Beautifully presented Euro-Thai fusion food with a fine dining feel. ✱ Port of Siam Cosy waterfront eatery serving a distinctive and exciting fusion of the best of Thailand and Scotland. Down the wynd of stairs between Cockburn and Market streets is Chang Thai, a vibrant establishment serving delectable dishes. The subterranean setting is enlivened by a canopy of fake ivy on the ceiling, copper-coloured walls and smiling golden buddhas. Each glasstopped table also contains individual treasures of coffee beans, seashells or tapestries. Thailand is further presented

Bluerapa Thai

6 Torphichen Place, West End, EH3 8DU (Map 4: B3, 24) 0131 629 0447, bluerapathai.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun 5.30–10.30pm. BYOB (£2); Kids; T/A; D. £7.50 (set lunch) / £15.50 (dinner)

Bluerapa Thai sits in the Haymarket area of Edinburgh and is a recently opened (2011) restaurant and takeaway. Run by the former owners of Chiang Mai, the jovial dining area has lime green walls, ruby lamps and teak furniture and there’s a popular BYOB policy. A two course lunch is £5.95 during the week and on the dinner menu, a selection of traditional curries and stir-fries are available for a just over a tenner, a thrifty deal which includes rice. Dishes are full of tender, quality meats and fresh spices. Gloriously sticky ‘drunken’ chicken wings arrive in red wine barbeque sauce. Silky panang curry sauce ladled over firm prawns has a pleasant kick. A green curry has a slightly watery texture but is full of crunchy mixed vegetables. Fried banana balls with a coconut casing are presented with thick slices of strawberry and a scoop of vanilla icecream. Front of house staff simultaneously handle both sit-in and takeaway orders with patience and humour. A fun and affordable place to dine. + Great value for money - Newish, so still establishing atmosphere

Edinburgh's 1st Contemporary Thai Restaurant Open 7 days a week for lunch & dinner 45 North Castle Street, Edinburgh EH2 3BG Tel: 0131 225 8822 www.time4thai.co.uk

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Edinburgh

✱

Dusit

49a Thistle Street, New Town, EH2 1DY (Map 1: D5, 84) 0131 220 6846, dusit. co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–3pm, 6–11pm; Sun noon–11pm. Veg; HW £15.50; Kids (under 9); T/A. £12.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

For the past ten years, Dusit has been a strong contender for the best Thai food in town due to the owners’ aesthetic vision of the appearance and flavour of their dishes. Takeaway, à la carte and the ‘floating market’ menus are available, the last being a set banquet for large parties or special events. With alluring titles such as ‘two brothers’ and ‘a loving couple’, the starters on the à la carte invoke a sense of harmony. ‘Pretty duck’ consists of char-grilled duck slices tossed with mango and cashews nuts in a pleasantly tart pineapple and chilli dressing. Under seafood specialities, the talay sam rod is a selection of butterflied

prawns, king scallops and monkfish coins. These plump and juicy delicacies arrive in a sharp yet sweet dressing of tamarind, lime, garlic and basil. After the main course, a trio of mango, champagne and lemon sorbets refreshes the palate. Experienced servers who glide between well-appointed tables in the sleek green room underline that Dusit is a place where presentation and flavour are in perfect balance. + Fresh flavours and well executed dishes - Lively atmosphere may be too noisy for some

✱

Leven’s

30–32 Leven Street, Southside, EH3 9LJ (Map 3: B2, 15) 0131 229 8988 | Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5–10.45pm; Fri/Sat noon– 10.45pm; Sun 1–10.45pm. Pre; BYOB (£6); HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £8.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

With its shiny surfaces, colour-changing LED lighting and leather chairs, Leven’s could be any type of eatery on first appearances. It’s only on entering that the warm welcome and seductive sweety-spicy smells make it clear that this is a Thai restaurant. Leven’s serves bold fusion cooking, mixing Thai, European and Japanese influences. The menu is compact and hard to choose from and the service is seriously good. A staple starter of Thai fish-cakes uniquely appears as deep fried rolls of tofu sheet stuffed with minced cod and king prawns. A main of crispy-skinned duck breast is served sliced with caramelized pineapple and baby eggplants on both red and green curry sauces, while a standard pad thai is actually standout. Thai food isn’t renowned for its desserts, but here taro root crème brûlée and coconut panacotta served with mango

to the customer through a series of freshly made dishes. A steaming tom kha soup has overtones of lime, chilli and coriander. A dish of toong tong consists of crunchy, golden filo parcels of minced chicken and vegetables. Mains include a very good pad phed prig thai oon, with slices of meaty duck amongst leaves of holy basil, soft grilled aubergines and peppers in a rich gravy. For dessert, a new take on the ubiquitous banana fritter is slices of banana tucked into a flaky roti pancake and drizzled with caramel syrup. Front of house staff don brightly coloured t-shirts and their relaxed demeanour contributes to the festive atmosphere, fitting for both birthday celebrations and romantic evenings. + Delicious meat dishes - Hard to spot

and pandanus ice-cream are worth a look. It’s the distinctive, well-presented food and not the indistinct surroundings that make Leven’s stand out from the other Thai restaurants in the Tollcross area. + Thai food that transcends the usual Buddhas-and-orchids approach - High-end feel may be off-putting to casual or walk-in diners

Mya

Unit 9, Commercial Quay, 92 Commercial Street, Leith, EH6 6LX (Map 5: C3, 3) 0131 554 4000, myarestaurant. co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–2pm, 6–11pm. Veg; Pre; HW £14.90; Kids; Wh; T/A. £7.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Close to the Royal Yacht Britannia and Ocean Terminal shopping centre, this combination restaurant solves the dilemma of which popular cuisine to enjoy, Thai or Indian. Much like its sister restaurant Shamoli, at Mya one can choose Thai favourites and/ or North Indian dishes in a sleek and airy setting. Chocolate walls and green tapestries give the dining area an exotic feel. Indian choices include tandooris, biryanis and puris, while the Thai menu ticks boxes with traditional soups, stirfries and curries. An Indian prawn puri has delectable puffed bread and a rich tomato and coriander sauce. In the Thai starter kanom bueng youn, prawns in a sweet coconut dressing arrive tucked into a flaky pancake. The traditional dish pad nuer prik thai oon with beef has flavours of oyster, chilli and peppers. When it comes to dessert, there is a brandy torte or vanilla cheesecake as well as the Indian dessert gulab jamon. Front of house staff are unfazed by the multitude of dishes and cheerfully engage with the customers as they move swiftly about the stylish dining area. + Intriguing duality - Slightly heavier focus on the Indian dishes

Passorn

Lemongrass

23–23a Brougham Place, Tollcross, EH3 9JU (Map 3: C1, 8) 0131 229 1537, passornthai.com | Mon–Sat noon– 2.30pm, 5–11pm. Closed Sun. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–3pm, 5–10.30pm. Closed Sun.]

HW £14.25. £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Tollcross’s Brougham Street boasts a variety of cuisines but Passorn is the lone Thai establishment and since 2009, has made a name for itself with its urban vibrancy and chic presentation. With a restaurant name meaning ‘angel’, there is a tone of sleek purity in the dark furniture and green and cream accents, and quirky toilets where the doors are built into the wall. ‘Bangkok cakes’ is an excellent starter featuring a plump prawn cake as well as a spicier fish-cake, both complemented by a chilli dressing. The plar neur beef salad joyfully sears the palate with its house tamarind sauce and chunky mix of lemongrass, mint sprigs and shallots. However, mains are not as inspiring and the themed ‘angel’ curry features a slightly dry sirloin steak slathered in red curry sauce. For dessert, there’s a selection of ice-creams or the more daring can try a visually stunning martini glass of pearl-shaped ebony rice and coconut milk. Service is formal but cheerful and a glass of the house white, a Chilean sauvignon blanc, slides down pleasantly. + Sophisticated atmosphere - Main courses slightly disappointing

✱

Port of Siam

3 Pier Place, Leith, EH6 4LP (Map 5: A2, off) 0131 467 8628, portofsiam.com | Mon–Wed 6–10pm; Thu/Fri noon–2pm, 6–10pm; Sat noon–10pm; Sun 12.30– 10pm. HW £11.90; Wh. £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Given its position on Newhaven Waterfront and the proximity of Edinburgh fish market, it’s no surprise that Port of Siam’s menu has a distinct focus on fresh seafood. What does surprise however is the exciting fusion of Scottish and Thai ingredients. A starter of marinated quail is served with water chestnuts, cashew nuts and a game sauce while seared scallops on black pudding are ‘made Thai’ through the inclusion of chilli oil and crispy sweet basil. Mains are divided into traditional and contemporary, with many of the combinations managing to be both simple and yet imaginative. Pad king sees Scottish beef stir-fried with young ginger,

R E S T A U R A N T

Open 7 days a week for lunch & dinner 40-41 Bruntsfield Place • Edinburgh EH10 4HJ Tel: 0131 229 2225 24 Renfrew Street • Glasgow G2 3BW Tel: 0141 331 1315 www.thailemongrass.net Absolute Thai (page 101): a small, welcoming, family-run restaurant serving spirited 102 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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wild mushrooms and confit garlic, while koong phao is giant prawns marinated in red wine, grilled and served with a spicy sauce on the side. The short dessert menu includes home-made pandanus leaf and cinnamon ice-creams, which are fun yet grown-up. With limited seating spread between booths and a central ‘bar’ table (used for Thai tapas nights), this cosy eatery is popular and busy so booking ahead is a must. + An unusual and exciting marriage of the best of Thailand and Scotland - Some of the seats are more comfortable than others, so book ahead

Ruan Siam

48 Howe Street, New Town, EH3 6TH (Map 1: C4, 41) 0131 226 3675, ruanthai. co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5.30– 10.30pm; Sun 5.30–10.30pm. Veg; Pre; HW £12.95; Kids (under 5); T/A; D. £9.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Fairy lights illuminate the cavernous space of Ruan Siam, a quaint basement restaurant tucked under Howe St. Leafy plants and sea-green napkins brighten up the intimate dining space. Lunch, banquet and pre-theatre menus are offered throughout the day, the last option available before 7 pm each evening. On the à la carte, starter options are perhaps the most enticing. Ped muan consists of thin pancakes, moist shredded duck and a sweet hoisin sauce. Vihok non rang is a butterflied prawn tempura with a crunchy casing. For mains, a creamy yellow chicken curry is enlivened by crispy shallots and a dollop of cream. Sea bass done two ways includes glazed with sweet and sour sauce and stirfried with vegetables and cashew nuts. For desserts, a tall glass of assorted ice cream flavours from Luca’s in Musselburgh does the trick. Ruan Siam also has a generous takeaway option of a 15 per cent discount on meals and free delivery on orders over £15. But it’s a treat to enter the romantic grotto space and polish off their quality dishes. + Delicious starters - Don’t trip on the stairs

Sing Thai

42 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge, EH3 5AL (Map 1: B3, 28) 0131 226 5877, singthai.co.uk | Tue–Sun 5.30–10.30pm.

Closed Mon. BYOB (£2.50; Tue–Thu only); HW £13.95; Kids (under 5); T/A. £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Sporting a fresh lick of paint and a new menu, Sing Thai sits at the top of a small flight of steps in Stockbridge’s cosmopolitan St Stephen’s Street. Run by a husband and wife team, this cosy restaurant has built up a strong reputation with locals for its warm welcome and genuine Thai cooking. A starter of king prawns with garlic and black pepper wrapped in rice pastry is served with a sweet chilli dip and arrives at the table with a startling complement of intricately carved vegetables. Mains of duck stir fried with green beans, bamboo shoots, lime leaves and chilli garlic in a red curry paste, and a hot beef curry featuring red chillis and an unusual root herb called grachi are bang full of flavour and big enough portions to satisfy. These big flavours emanate from a small kitchen, which ensures that ingredients are regularly sourced and super-fresh, however bought-in Italian desserts offer an incongruous end to a traditional Thai meal. Climb the steps anyway, and Sing Thai from the heights. + Big flavours from a small kitchen - No option to try any Thai desserts

Spirit of Thai

44 Grindlay Street, West End, EH3 9AP (Map 4: D3, 46) 0131 228 9333, spiritofthai.com | Mon–Thu noon– 2.30pm, 5–11.30pm; Fri/Sat noon– 11.30pm; Sun 1–11.30pm. BYOB (£6); HW £13.50; Kids. £8.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Strategically positioned near the Lyceum Theatre and Usher Hall, Spirit of Thai is well placed to make the most of the regular traffic to both venues. The décor is what you would expect of a traditional Thai restaurant, with golden Buddhas, muted colours and plenty of carved wood, and the menu follows the same convention. A satisfying starter of deep-fried prawn cakes with cashew nuts and shitake mushrooms is sizeable enough to be a main course, while deep-fried pork neck with herbs and black pepper is rewardingly crunchy and tasty. Mains don’t fare so well, with chewy sea-food used in a stir fry clearly

of frozen heritage and a side of rice noodles arriving undercooked as if an afterthought. The choice of desserts is unimaginatively limited to fritter, fruit and ice-cream, but then you’re likely to skip pudding if you’ve been able to finish the generously sized previous courses. With a reasonable set price lunch menu, Spirit of Thai should remain popular with local office workers, but the absence of an early dining or pre-theatre menu may send theatregoers elsewhere. + Large portions are welcome when the food is good - Unreliable quality coming from the kitchen

Thai Pod

20 Leopold Place, London Road, EH7 5LB See Takeaway & Home Delivery

Thai Lemongrass

40–41 Bruntsfield Place, Southside, EH10 4HJ (Map 3: B2, 21) 0131 229 2225, thailemongrass.net | Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5–11.30pm; Fri/Sat noon– 11.30pm; Sun 1–11.30pm. BYOB (£6); HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £8.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Thai Lemongrass is a twin operation with restaurants in both Glasgow and Edinburgh. At the capital’s branch in Bruntsfield, a golden Buddha on the wall is the focus of the calm, candle-lit dining room. Friendly staff lead guests to tables adorned with red napkin crowns and crisp prawn crackers. Takeaway, banquet and à la carte menus offer a range of salads, stir-fries, curries and seafood dishes. A bowl of hot and sour soup is a fragrant concoction of fish, squid and prawns with accents of tangy lime and coriander. The prawn

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Thai food in Tollcross

For full explanations see page 4.

Open 7 days a week for lunch & dinner 44 Grindlay Street Edinburgh EH3 9AP Tel: 0131 228 9333 www.spiritofthai.com The List Eating & Drinking Guide 103

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Edinburgh and vegetable tempura starter is a generous plateful, but is let down by a slightly heavy batter. Under the chef’s recommendations section, a dish of stirfried duck and vegetables is enlivened by holy basil leaves and a sweet oyster sauce. French house wines are made especially for the restaurant and carry a Thai Lemongrass label. The gentle ambiance and dependable food allow this to be a good option for Southside locals. + Excellent seafood hot and sour soup - Soggy tempura

Thai Orchid

5A Johnston Terrace, Old Town, EH1 2PW (Map 2: B3, 33) 0131 225 6633, thaiorchid.uk.com | Mon–Sun noon– 10.45pm. HW £13.95; Kids; T/A. £8.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Sitting in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle and bang on the tourist trail, this busy Thai eatery is lined with dark wooden walls and muted colours yet feels open and light thanks to large and strategically placed mirrors. A giant painting of a smiling Buddha gazes down on eaters perusing the lengthy menu. A starter of goong pow is butterfly prawns char-grilled with ginger, coriander and black pepper served with a spicy chilli and garlic dip, while hoy jaw sees crabmeat and pork mince wrapped in bean curd skin, deep fried and served with a sweet plum sauce. To follow, a main of seau rong hai – Tiger Cry – is lean sirloin beef grilled, thinly sliced and mixed with mint, coriander and lime, while gaeng pedt yang sees roasted duck cooked in red curry paste with an unusual mixture of lychees, grapes and

cherry tomatoes that shouldn’t work, but does. Portions here are generous and the service is fast, efficient and friendly. The dessert list is slightly uninspiring but given the generosity of the previous portions this isn’t a problem. + A selection of unusual and exciting main dish choices - Uninspiring dessert menu

Time 4 Thai

45 North Castle Street, New Town, EH2 3BG (Map 1: C5, 63) 0131 225 8822, time4thai.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5–11.30pm; Fri/Sat noon– 11.30pm; Sun 1–11.30pm. Veg; BYOB (£6); HW £13.95; Kids; T/A. £9.80 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Subtle spotlights, purple flowers and leather banquettes create a refined atmosphere at Time 4 Thai on North Castle Street. A variety of luxurious menus are on offer, including three and four course lunches, banquet and à la carte. Meals are presented with flower garnishes and on a variety of delicate glass and china dishes. For starters, fried discs of minced chicken and sweetcorn provide a meaty yet crunchy texture. Grilled scallops on the shell are enlivened by slivers of lemongrass and mint. Cubes of apple and sweet potato give a fruity twist to the gaeng phed ped yang, a red duck curry with a silky sauce. A standard prawn pad thai reaches above the ordinary with a sharp tamarind dressing and fat prawns. Attentive servers sweep through the long dining room spaces and cheerfully bestow each dish. A place to visit for a sophisticated and satisfying evening. + Appealing curries - No pre-theatre menu

VEGETARIAN With one of its august venues celebrating 50 years in business in 2012, Edinburgh’s vegetarian scene continues to thrive. From counter-service cafés to bistros and smart dining there is something here for every occasion and for most tastes, whether vegan, vegetarian or those who can live without meat once in a while. This might be one of the smallest sections in the guide, but it certainly punches above its weight. Reviewer: Claire Ritchie

Ann Purna

45 St Patrick’s Sq, Southside, EH8 9ET See Indian

The Baked Potato Shop

56 Cockburn Street, Old Town, EH1 1PB (Map 2: D3, 15) 0131 225 7572 | Mon–Sun 9am–9pm. Veg; T/A. £6 (lunch) / £6 (dinner)

Renowned for its huge potatoes and hearty vegetarian fare, this venerable pocket-sized shop is something of an anomaly in Edinburgh’s Old Town. Slapbang in the middle of tourist land, and surrounded by tartan tat shops spewing out electronic bagpipe noise, this counterculture landmark is more likely to be playing the Chemical Brothers at top volume and employs smiley staff with piercings aplenty. Baked potatoes are the name of the game, and are available in small, medium and large portions, with almost any topping imaginable, from the classic cheese’n’beans or egg mayo to the more esoteric mushroom salad or curried corn. Vegans are well looked after, with an entire section of the fridge devoted to dairy-free offerings, and there is also a wide selection of hot fillings along the lines of veggie chilli or haggis. Salads, tray bakes and wholesome snacks

complete the set. A small table in the corner offers the potential for sitting down to enjoy your meal, but as only four people can squeeze round it, you’ll more likely have to opt for takeaway. + Finding quality vegetarian food in the midst of all the tourist tat - Someone will almost inevitably bag the table before you

✱

David Bann

56–58 St Mary’s Street, Old Town, EH1 1SX (Map 2: E3, 106) 0131 556 5888, davidbann.com | Mon–Thu noon–10pm; Fri noon–10.30pm; Sat 11am–10.30pm; Sun 11am–10pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–1am.] Veg; HW £13.95; Kids. £22 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

David Bann has been at the forefront of Edinburgh’s vegetarian scene for over a decade, and his restaurant continues to combine modern décor with an innovative menu that eschews vegetarian clichés. Protein staples tofu and chickpeas may be on offer, but the combinations and flair with which they are presented will make naysayers rethink their prejudices. Menu regulars like the tartlet of Dunsyre blue cheese with slow-dried tomato are revered by those in the know, while the unusual combinations in a Thai fritter of broccoli and smoked tofu make for a lively and fresh starter, set off by an unusual banana chutney and plum dressing. Main courses are no less compelling, drawing influences from around the globe and using exciting spice and seasoning combinations. The rice pancake filled with cauliflower, chickpea and cashew curry and served with raita and chutney is a particular highlight. A lengthy dessert list makes for some tough decisions – it may be best to opt for the sharing platter which includes vanilla and whisky pannacotta, pear and passion fruit tart and raspberry chocolates. The understated service and considered wine list round off a very pleasant dining experience. + Modern, innovative vegetarian food - Service can be overly speedy

L E V E N’S THAI

FUSION

CUISINE

Open 7 days a week for lunch & dinner Leven’s Restaurant 30-32 Leven Street Edinburgh • EH3 9LJ Tel: 0131 229 8988 Henderson’s Vegetarian Restaurant: celebrating its 50th year 104 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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✱

The Engine Shed

19 St Leonards Lane, Southside, EH8 9SD (Map 3: I1, 45) 0131 662 0040, engineshed.org.uk | Mon–Sat 10am– 4pm. Closed Sun. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A. £8 (lunch)

Well off the beaten track in the Pleasance area of the Southside sits this quiet little gem of a café, run by the Garvald Community Enterprise, a charity which helps people with learning disabilities into the workplace. Despite its inconspicuous location the Engine Shed has a devoted army of customers and is nearly always busy. Pale wooden furniture and windows that flood the room with light create a welcoming space for lunch, where daily hot specials such as red dragon pie – a hearty spicy bean casserole topped with mashed potato – and a crisp and tasty broccoli and mushroom quiche feature on the menu alongside baked potatoes and a range of salads. The wide range of organic bread, biscuits and oatcakes is baked in the onsite bakery, and they also produce several varieties of fresh tofu, all of which can be purchased in the café and at the weekly Castle Terrace farmers’ market. A cup of coffee with a slice of sticky lemon cake or heart-stoppingly rich tiffin would be another excellent reason to pop in, even if you’re nowhere near the neighbourhood. + Fresh, tasty food at excellent prices - So well hidden it would be easy to miss

Henderson’s @ St John’s

St John’s Terrace, 3 Lothian Road, West End, EH1 2EP (Map 4: D2, 19) 0131 229 0212, hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk/ st-johns.php | Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 11am–4pm. Veg; Kids; T/A. £11 (lunch)

Beneath the dominating edifice that is St John’s Church in the West End lies this well-kept secret. The newest branch of Henderson’s empire serves the wholesome vegetarian fare that we know and love, but in bright, airy surroundings and with outdoor tables in a quiet corner just perfect for the sun’s rare outings. Soups, quiches, crêpes and wraps sit beside hot specials such as chickpea curry, haggis and clapshot and lentil lasagne on a packed and enticing menu. Cakes and tray bakes are temptingly displayed, requiring an iron will to resist them, and the small selection of wines and beers might also lead you astray. Counter service makes the ordering and delivery process speedy for local office workers’ lunch or for busy weekend shoppers. Kids are more than welcome, too, providing a welcome family alternative to those ubiquitous chain restaurants. + A calm, wholesome oasis right in the city centre - Some of the cakes could be fresher

Henderson’s Vegetarian Restaurant

94 Hanover Street, New Town, EH2 1DR (Map 1: D5, 90) 0131 225 2131, hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk | Mon– Wed 8am–9.30pm; Thu–Sat 8am–10pm. Closed Sun. [Aug & Dec: open Sun 10am–5pm]. Veg; HW £14.50; Kids; T/A. £9.25 / £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

This subterranean gathering spot has been the beating heart of Edinburgh’s vegetarian scene for half a decade, and justly celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2012 – no mean feat considering how our appetites and attitudes towards food have changed over those years. With space for 160 around rustic wooden tables, live music of some description every night and a wide range of wholesome food and drink on offer, it’s little wonder the place is always

✱ HITLIST VEGETARIAN ✱ David Bann Modern, inventive vegetarian cooking in a vibrant, classy atmosphere. ✱ The Engine Shed Greatvalue home-made food in a bright, welcoming space with its heart in exactly the right place. busy. Behind the serving counter a vast blackboard details the day’s specials which range in price and substance from soups, salads and quiches to hearty main meals along the lines of a crêpe with mushrooms and fennel in a creamy mustard sauce or roast aubergine stuffed with oats and nuts and served with a warming redcurrant sauce and potato dauphinoise. Any of the specials can be augmented by a side salad chosen from the tempting display, ranging from a simple combination of green leaves or tomato salad to Henderson’s own take on coleslaw. Finish off with a slice of cherry pie or a selection of local cheeses and you’re bound to leave satisfied. + Good value wholesome food - Canteen-style service can lack finesse

Henderson’s Bistro

25 Thistle Street, New Town, EH2 1DX (Map 1: D5, 89) 0131 225 2605, hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk | Sun– Wed noon–8.30pm; Thu–Sat noon– 9.30pm. Veg; HW £14.25; Kids. £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Up the stairs and round the corner from the original and most venerable Henderson’s sits this younger, more intimate version. Also going strong for decades now, the food here is along the same lines as that served downstairs but perhaps with the extra touch of finesse that comes with cosy surroundings and table service. Hearty staples such as quiches, curries, bean burgers and falafels all feature alongside a blackboard of special curries, crêpes and stews. The Mexican wrap is packed to bursting with melting mozzarella and grilled veg and, served with salad, sour cream and jalapeños, is a much heartier dish than it might appear. Garlicky home-made baba ganoush makes for a delicious starter over a glass of chilled white wine, with ample flatbreads provided for dipping. The dessert list makes for arresting reading, featuring Henderson’s justly famous cherry pie, a creamy chocolate pot and the decadent frozen mascarpone and honey cheese cake. Dishes can be adapted to be vegan and/or gluten-free and the wine list is interesting and affordable, making for a well-rounded and wholesome meal out. + Welcoming atmosphere, low prices - Décor could do with a freshen-up

Kalpna

2/3 St Patrick’s Square, Southside, EH8 9EZ See Indian

“Apart from the food, the atmosphere, the service and the approachable flexibility of the menu, the other commendable thing about David Bann is that his prices represent good value. ” Joanna Blythman, The Herald

56-58 St Mary’s Street, Edinburgh (off The Royal Mile and The Cowgate) www.davidbann.com

0131 556 5888 Eating and Drinking Open 7 Days from 11am The List Eating & Drinking Guide 105

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400 R E V O SGOW , GLA URANTS A RESTAFES AND C ARS B

Glasgow

CITY OF CULTURE

TABLE Talk

• Pamela Clocherty 112 • Daniel Lee 124 • Paul Smith 138 • Ian McColm 160

lasgow’s extensive and varied options for eating and drinking often come as the biggest surprise to those who imagine it as a poorer cousin of Edinburgh’s more upmarket scene. This overlooks the distinct cultural and historical divergences that have given the city’s bars and eateries a vivid and unique life of their own – as highlighted by the 400-plus cafés, pubs, bistros and restaurants in the following pages. Glasgow has not had a Michelin star since Gordon Ramsay upped sticks with the Parthian-shot comment that the city wasn’t ready for a Michelin restaurant. Michel Roux recently concluded that the lack of a star for his protégé Brian Maule was solely down to his generous portion size. If that’s true then Glaswegians would probably rather have the bigger servings and better value than an accolade that may well more for chefs than diners. The city’s residents do enjoy a good deal, and many of the establishments covered in this guide offer pretheatre menus and other deals that often represent attractive value for money. The lack of a star does not mean a shortage of upmarket options in a city boasting a number of fine-dining establishments doing exceptional things with food. That the food is increasingly

from the plush fields and teeming waters around the city is in recognition of the fantastic produce that Scotland offers, whether served up in a fivestar hotel restaurant, a laid-back, informal bistro or a neighbourhood café. There is also a growing appreciation that the west coast waters offer seafood of undoubted quality and international renown. Many historical immigrants have shaped the city, particularly the Italian influx from the late 1800s, and later the Indians and Pakistanis who helped establish the many curryhouses that are arguably the best in the UK. The wealth of Italian restaurants are testament to the skills and traditions brought over by migrants. These were warmly embraced by Glaswegians who also welcomed other cuisines from Chinese and Malaysian to Japanese and Mexican. The city’s famous nightlife includes a live music scene that is rivalled only by London, and many of the pubs and bars are serving food of an exceptionally high standard to go along with their other varied and enlightening entertainments. The food and drink scene is constantly shifting and surprising with exciting and edifying new ventures opening up on a weekly basis. The pages that follow are an in-depth and informed look at all that this fine city has to offer.

106 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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TIPList

GLASGOW & SURROUNDS

THE EATING & DRINKING GUIDE TEAM’S RECOMMENDATIONS

FOR WEEKEND BRUNCH • Biscuit

Bibi’s Cantina

FARMERS’ & FOOD

• The Khyber

161

• The Little Café

137

• Mother India

150

132

• Café Gandolﬁ

124

• Cookie

125

• Eat Café / Eat Deli

135

• Roastit Bubbly Jocks 164

• Gusto & Relish

136

• The Hyndland Café

136

• The Pelican Café

128

• Kitsch Inn

142

• St Louis Cafe Bar

159

• Lucky 7 Canteen

127

• Shilla

143

• The Wee Curry Shop

152

FOR KIDS & FAMILIES • An Clachan

• Stravaigin

167

• Nanakusa

142

• Tapa Coffeehouse

139

• Rumours Kopitiam

142

• Tibo

130

• Southern Spice

• Trans-Europe Café

139

• Wee Cucina

FOR BUDGET DINING

131

• La Bodega Tapas Bar

168

• Brooklyn Café

132

• Di Maggio’s

154

151 • The Grosvenor Café

117

• KG Café

110

• Ketchup

159

158

FOR BYOB

• The Kitchen Restaurant • Banana Leaf

147

• Assam’s

• Bibi’s Cantina

158

• Banana Leaf (Albert Dr)147

• La Bodega Tapas Bar

168

• The Bay Tree Café

132

• Café Hula

133

• Eat Café

135

• Fratelli Sarti

155

• Fanny Trollopes

126

• Gusto & Relish

136

111

147 • No 1 Chocolate Factory 138 • Riverside Café

• The Greek Golden Kebab 161

111

• Stravaigin

167

• WEST Brewery

122

MARKETS • QUEEN’S PARK Around 25 producers gather at the Victoria Road park entrance on the first and third Saturday of each month, from 10am to 2pm. • SILVERBURN At the Next entrance of Silverburn shopping centre, find it on the last Sunday of each month from 10am to 4pm. Expect up to 20 stalls of fresh veg, home baking and meat. • MANSFIELD PARK Over 40 stallholders bring the farm to the West End with everything from wild boar to organic bread, on the second and fourth Saturday of the month between 10am and 2pm. • PAISLEY Beside Gilmour Street station, a 15-minute train journey from Glasgow, the County Square hosts up to 30 producers on the second and last Saturday of every month, from 9am to 1pm. • MILNGAVIE A weekday market on the first Wednesday of every month, this well supported market draws producers from all over Scotland. Find it at Douglas Street, from 10am to 2pm.

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FOR LATE DINING

• Riverside Café

111

• Stravaigin • Asia Style

167

140 • Tchai-Ovna House of Tea 171

• Le Bistro Beaumartin 145 • WEST Brewery • Café Gandolﬁ

124

• Cafe Salma

147

122

FOR GROUPS & PARTIES

• The Calabash Restaurant 161

love noodles love wagamama inspired by japanese flavours, wagamama combine fresh ingredients and value for money. it’s everyone’s favourite noodle bar! join us at 2 locations around glasgow: west george street silverburn shopping centre delicious noodles | rice dishes | freshly squeezed juices | salads | wine | asian beers | kids menu available

wagamama.com

• Masala Twist

150

• O Sole Mio

156

• Southern Spice

151

• Stravaigin

167

• Thai Lemongrass

143

• Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery

144

• Ubiquitous Chip

167

• Akbar’s

146

• Balbir’s

147

• Battleﬁeld Rest

152

• La Bodega Tapas Bar

168

• Citation

124

• Di Maggio’s

154

• Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant 161 • Konaki Greek Taverna 162

FOR LIVE MUSIC

• The Partners Italian Bistro

156

• The Admiral

112

• Sapporo Teppanyaki

142

• The Ben Nevis

113

• Tropeiro

162

• Bar Bloc+

114

• WEST Brewery

122

• La Bodega Tapas Bar

168

• The Captain’s Rest

116

FOR PRE-THEATRE

• King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut 118

• Amber Regent

140

• MacSorley’s

120

• Assam’s

147

• Nice’n’Sleazy

120

• The Bath Street Pony

113

• The Roxy 171

121

• Bibi’s Cantina

158

• Slouch

121

• Café Gandolﬁ

124

• Stereo

171

• Malaga Tapas

168

• Masala Twist

150

• Mussel Inn

144

• La Parmigiana

156

• The 13th Note Café/Bar 171

FOR OUTDOOR DINING • An Clachan

131

• The Pelican Café

128

• Art Lover’s Café

110

• Southern Spice

151

• Babbity Bowster

112

• Urban Bar & Brasserie 130

• The Big Blue

153

• City Café

125

• Crabby Macs Seafood Café

143

• The Grill Room at the Square

164

• The Kitchen Restaurant 111

FOR A ROMANTIC MEAL • Art Lover’s Café

110

• Bistro at One Devonshire Gardens

162

• Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or

146

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• Café Gandolﬁ

124

• The Drake (upstairs)

125

• The Green Room

110

• Mother India

150

• La Parmigiana

156

FOR TAKING THE DOG • Bar 91

112

• The Brass Monkey

115

• BrewDog

115

• Cottiers

125

• Lebowskis

119

• The Left Bank

127

• Piccolo Mondo Glasgow 157 • The Sisters Kelvingrove 167 • Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery

144

• Offshore

138

• Ubiquitous Chip

167

• The Pelican Café

128

• Stravaigin Café Bar

130

• WEST Brewery

122

FOR A SENSE OF PLACE • An Clachan

131

• Art Lover’s Café

110

• The Big Blue

153

• Café Source

163

• An Clachan

131

• City Café

125

• Banana Leaf

147

• Cottiers

125

• La Bodega Tapas Bar

168

• The Kitchen Restaurant 111

• Café Hula

133

• Riverside Cafe

• Grassroots Organic

169

• Martha’s

137

• Piece

138

• Roots & Fruits

138

• Tapa Coffeehouse

139

• Tibo

130

FOR ITS SOURCING POLICY

• Thali

151

• An Clachan

FOR WINES BY THE GLASS

111

• Rogano

144

• Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery

144

• Ubiquitous Chip

167

• WEST Brewery

122

131

• Bistro at One Devonshire Gardens

162

• Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or

146

• Café Gandolﬁ

FOR VEGETARIAN (OUTWITH VEGETARIAN SECTION)

• Bar Gandolﬁ

112

• Barbarossa

152

124

• Bistro at One Devonshire Gardens

162

• Crabshakk

144

• Brasserie at the Chip

123

• Fanny Trollopes

126

• The Bungo Bar Kitchen 124

• Gamba

144

• Café Gandolﬁ

124

• Martha’s

137

• Curlers Rest

116

• The Pelican Café

128

• The Italian Caffè

155

• The Sisters

167

• Jamie’s Italian

155

• Stravaigin

167

• Lebowskis

119

• Tapa

171

• Malmaison

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ARTS VENUES

list.co.uk

Glasgow Café Cossachok

ARTS VENUES

Trongate 103, 10 King Street, Merchant City, G1 5QP See Round the World

Glasgow’s arts scene is internationally acclaimed for its variety and quality – praise which is equally applicable to the food available at its arts venues. Ranging from funky cafés dishing up great sandwiches, salads and baking to fine dining in elegant surroundings, there’s something to match every mood. Not to be restricted to the pre-theatre crowd, many of these places are worthy dining destinations in their own right.

✱ The Green Room

Royal Concert Hall, 2 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3NY (Map 6: E2, 48) 0141 353 8000, glasgowconcerthalls.com | Mon–Sun noon–2pm (before matinées), 5–6.30pm (on performance nights). Pre; HW £18.10; Kids; Wh. £16.95 (set lunch / dinner)

Eating at the Green Room is a rare treat – quite literally as it is only open on performance days. Attached to the Royal Concert Hall (with direct access to the auditorium for concert-goers), the restaurant’s limited and unpredictable opening hours mean forward planning is key, but it’s well worth it. The elegant dining room has an understated chartreuse and maroon colour scheme and enormous windows with a fabulous view down Buchanan Street. Starters include a silken chicken liver paté with port and redcurrant sauce and dinky Arran oatcakes. Chilli, lime and coriander king prawns are well spiced, with a background kick and the accompanying Israeli couscous is given pleasing texture and crunch by the addition of finely diced salad vegetables. A main of sea bass fillet is accompanied by Jerusalem artichoke purée, wilted greens and saffron potatoes, and showcases the produce of the season. Desserts include lime-scented cheesecake with strawberries and chocolate sauce, and a richly caramel apple tarte tatin with cinnamon ice-cream. Bells tell you the show is starting – but with food this good you may be reluctant to leave. + High-end classic cuisine at a very reasonable price - Those restricted opening hours

Reviewer: Bronwen Livingstone

The Arches Café Bar & Restaurant

253 Argyle Street, City Centre, G2 8DL (Map 6: C5, 96) 0141 565 1035, thearches. co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–9pm. Closed Sun (unless performance on). [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–midnight.] Veg; Pre; HW £11.95; Kids; Wh. £11 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

In the Arches’ subterranean dining room, regularly changing installations – often by local artists – provide the backdrop to interesting, well-executed food. An appetising menu includes adventurous options such as deep-fried baby octopus and wood pigeon. A starter of fall-apart tender ham hough terrine with a core of creamy, smooth, herbed goat’s cheese is a nice mix of acidic and salty-savoury, while a smoked salmon salad is given bite by delicate slivers of radish amongst a veritable forest of rocket. Fajitas are available in beef, chicken and vegetable but, while plentiful, lack a chilli kick to cut through the sweet tomato. Bacontopped pork, haggis and whisky burger, meanwhile, is one for the carnivores. Dessert choices include a jolly tangerine jelly with mango ice-cream and scattered shards of honeycomb, evoking childhood puddings in the best way. With a full programme of club nights and cuttingedge performances taking place upstairs and a popular bar adjoining, there’s a lively air to the venue, but do be aware

✱ The Hidden Lane Tearoom Riverside Café: a great setting within the new transport museum

that sound permeation from gigs can make the dining room noisy. + Unusual and appealing flavour combinations - Salads largely composed of rocket

✱ Art Lover’s Café

House for an Art Lover, Bellahouston Park, 10 Dumbreck Road, Southside, G41 5BW (Map 8: B1, off) 0141 353 4779, houseforanartlover.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–4pm. BYOB (£9, £12–£14 fizz); HW £15.95; Kids; Wh. £14

The Art Lover’s Café offers an elegant, yet relaxed dining experience. The walls of its serene white dining room play host to frequently changing art exhibitions, but there’s artistry on the plates too. Salads and upmarket sandwiches (think char-grilled steak with Gruyère glaze on rosemary focaccia) are on offer but the confident, modern Scottish cuisine of the à la carte menu is the star attraction. A starter of smoked duck breast is complemented by beetroot and blackcurrant purée and, cutting through the richness, a tangy black pepper vinaigrette. Mains include rump of lamb with an apple and horseradish rösti, sweet creamed shallots and a jaunty pancetta crisp – a classic marriage of flavours, skilfully executed. Comforting smoked haddock rarebit is served on wilted spinach and a bashed potato stack, topped with a perfect poached egg and finished with grain mustard cream sauce. A dessert of rhubarb four ways (crème brûlée, sorbet, crumble tartlet and pannacotta) is sheer delight. The set menu changes regularly and offers excellent value at £14.95 for three courses, albeit with a more limited range of choices.

+ Refined cooking in classy surroundings - Déclassé paper napkins

Café Cosmo

Glasgow Film Theatre, 12 Rose Street, City Centre, G3 6RB (Map 6: C2, 25) 0141 332 6535, glasgowfilm.org | Mon– Sun noon–5pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–9pm.] Veg; HW £14; Kids; Wh. £7 (lunch)

Just as the cinematic offerings at the GFT are a million miles from the standard multiplex fare, so is the café a welcome departure from harshly lit popcorn pushers and hot dog dispensers. It’s a cosy haven, with low lighting, dark blue walls and a well-stocked bar that invites long, intense conversations on the finer points of film. The menu is short but hits the right notes with a range of customisable sandwiches and salads – the choice of fillings includes chorizo, mozzarella and parma ham along with more mainstream egg, cheese and tuna. A Mediterranean tapas plate is a ray of Spanish sunshine, with cold meats, hummus, salad and a lovely sun-dried tomato and feta tapenade. Baked potatoes are served with the creamy house coleslaw and a generous salad portion but, alas, being microwaved, lack a crispy skin. Soups change daily and are always vegetarian. For afters, there’s a variety of tempting home bakes available. The lemon, coconut and apricot slice is a good foil for the café’s excellent strong coffee. + Terrific tapenade - Flabby potato

Café Source

1 St Andrew’s Square, Merchant City, G1 5PP See Scottish

8 Argyle Court, 1103 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8ND (Map 9: F6, 101) 0141 237 4391, thehiddenlanetearoom. blogspot.com | Mon–Sat 10am–6pm; Sun noon–6pm. Veg; BYOB (£3 pp); Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £10

Tucked down a cobbled lane off Argyle Street, the Hidden Lane Tearoom is one of those rare places where everything comes together seamlessly. The décor is shabby chic – all duck-egg blue highlights, floral bunting, artfully mismatched furniture and vintage china. A floor-to-ceiling window ensures that even the farthest reaches of the mezzanine feel airy and light. It’s not just about appearances, though; the food is carefully thought out and beautifully presented. A mixed deli platter of meat and cheese is served on a waxed-paper lined slate, along with a hinge-top pot of olives, a dollop of hummus and a perfectly ripe pear. Sandwiches include honey-roasted carrots, beetroot and goat’s cheese, and a punchy chorizo, Dunsyre blue and homemade red onion marmalade combination. Home baking is a speciality, with giant meringues, Victoria sponges and brownies amongst the favourites. It all comes together in the Hidden Tearoom’s delightful High Tea; sandwiches, scones and cakes are arranged on gorgeous cake stands and served with a flourish. There’s an excellent selection of teas to choose from or you can add corkage for a special celebration. + Absolute attention to detail - Styling may be too feminine for some

KG Café

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, Kelvingrove Park, Argyle Street, West End, G3 8AG (Map 9: D4, 123) 0141 276 9530, encorehospitalityservices.co.uk | Mon–Thu 10am–4pm; Fri 11am–4pm; Sat 10am–4pm; Sun 11am–4pm.

110 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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ARTS VENUES

In association with

Glasgow Veg; HW ÂŁ14.65; Kids; Wh. ÂŁ13

Housed in the basement of the iconic Kelvingrove Art Galleryv and Museum, KG CafĂŠ is an airy, welcoming space. Justly popular with tourists and families, and particularly busy at weekends, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s well worth booking ahead. The most coveted tables are in the glass-walled conservatory area with a bucolic view across the park to Glasgow University, although the main dining room, with its neo-industrial styling and pavement wall art is equally pleasant. The menuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been revamped for 2012 with sections for breakfast, lunch, KG favourites, childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s choice, sandwiches, pastries, dessert and the Kelvingrove Afternoon Tea. Such choice should cater for all tastes, with dishes ranging from the traditional fry-up and char-grilled beef burger to Italian lamb casserole and forest mushroom gnocchi with creamy spinach and Lanark Blue cheese sauce. Crispy battered fish is a popular option, the tender-fleshed haddock is served with KGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s renowned chunky chips and a sea of peas. All tables are equipped with futuristic buzzers to summon waiting staff or call for the bill; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a fun touch and very useful during those busy times. + Proper food in an amazing setting - No chocolatey desserts

The Kitchen Restaurant

Pollok House, Pollok Country Park, 2060 Pollokshaws Road, Southside, G43 1AT (Map 8: A4, off) 0844 493 2202, nts.org. uk/Property/Pollok-House | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sun 10amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;4.30pm. Veg; HW ÂŁ14.95; Kids; Wh. ÂŁ14 (lunch)

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a genteel air about the Kitchen Restaurant at Pollok House, as befits its location in the Edwardian kitchen of this gracious 18th-century family home, now run by the National Trust. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an enormous black range, terracotta tiled floor and shiny copper pans hanging in a neat row, and French doors open out on to a sunny little tea garden, which has tables in the summer. The menu comprises soup and sandwich choices, along with more substantial offerings. Sweet potato and chive soup is smooth and hearty, and served with olive bread, while smoked salmon terrine is a generous slab of smooth creamy salmon mousse enlivened with plenty of fresh dill. Main courses include a savoury tart, a salad of beetroot, walnut and goatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cheese and a crispjacketed salmon and potato fish-cakes. The main attraction, however, is the vast range of home baking. All produced in-house, it includes addictive sticky gingerbread, fudgy coconut lemon slice, traditional biscuits and tea loaves, and is all well worth the trip alone. + Elegant setting in beautiful house and gardens - Tables a bit cold without cloths

The Pipersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Tryst

The National Piping Centre, 30â&#x20AC;&#x201C;34 McPhater Street, City Centre, G4 0HW (Map 6: D1, 26) 0141 353 5551, thepipingcentre.co.uk | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Fri noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2.45pm, 5â&#x20AC;&#x201C;8.45pm; Sat noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;2.45pm, 5â&#x20AC;&#x201C;9.45pm. Closed Sun. [Bar open: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; Fri 11amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;11pm; Sat 11amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;11.45pm. Closed Sun.] Veg; Pre; HW ÂŁ17.50; Kids; Wh. ÂŁ9.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ16 (dinner)

Attached to the National Piping Centre in Cowcaddens, the Pipersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Tryst maintains an authentically Scottish identity without descending into shortbread-tin tweeness. The dining room is a relaxed, informal space, with scrubbed wooden tables, dark leather tall-backed chairs and framed prints of venerable highlanders lining the walls. The polished bar is, of course, well stocked with whiskies. The menu, too, has a strong Scottish accent; haggis is available as a starter, main and also in

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;tweedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; form â&#x20AC;&#x201C; little fried balls, served with a whisky and honey dressing. A tower of tattie scone, black pudding and poached egg is comfort food of the highest order, the classic combination lent sophistication through presentation. Mains include fish and chips (made with sustainable whiting), three varieties of macaroni and cheese and venison sausage with mash and onion gravy. Dessert offerings include a chocolate mousse duo, berry cheesecake and a Highland cheese board. The restaurant often hosts music events at weekends featuring fiddle, accordion and clĂ rsach â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and even the occasional piper. + A Highland gem in the city centre - Some dishes light on veg

and nicely al dente sugar snap peas. A display case of desserts includes all the favourites: chocolate crispies, carrot cake, empire biscuits, lofty home-baked scones and cheesecake of the day â&#x20AC;&#x201C; millionaire shortcake cheesecake is particularly good. + Child-friendly, with huge, intriguing garden to explore - Concrete and steel is not for everyone

Riverside CafĂŠ

Long respected for its theatrical offerings, the Tronâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also built a reputation for reliably good food. The menu features well-executed gastropub favourites such as ham and eggs, risotto and braised lamb shank. A starter of button mushrooms in garlic, chilli and lemon oil on slabs of good toast provides just the right blend of tingle and tang. Roast supreme of chicken is crispy-skinned and juicy, and well-matched with a chive-flecked mash, garlicky French beans and green peppercorn sauce. Dessert choice is limited and traditional: ice-cream, meringue, sticky toffee pudding and the like. Lunch is an edited version of the evening menu with the addition of soup and sandwich choices. Diners can eat in the modern cafĂŠ bar or retreat to the cosy dining room with its ecclesiastical beams and an intriguing set of painted wooden panels lining the walls, each of which is the handiwork of one of the theatreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original patrons. Understandably popular with theatre-goers taking advantage of

Riverside Museum, 100 Pointhouse Place, West End, G3 8RS (Map 9: A4, off) 0141 287 2720, encorehospitalityservices.co.uk | Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Thu & Sat 10amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;4pm; Fri/Sun 11amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;4pm. Veg; HW ÂŁ15.75; Kids; Wh. ÂŁ6.95 (set lunch)

Located at the back of the museum, the Riverside cafĂŠ serves polished renditions of popular classics. One wall is given over to glass, with a view of the Tall Ship, while the others are a zingy shade of lime green. Add in the double-height ceiling (originally intended to accommodate a second floor) and you have an airy, futuristic space. The comprehensive lunch menu covers sandwiches, salads and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;lunch favouritesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (fish and chips, burger and the like.) There are three varieties of Riverside pie: traditional steak, seafood, and a delightful vegetarian option, with a light herbed cream and Brie sauce and a rumpled filo lid. A starter of smoked haddock fishcake has a good balance of fish to potato, with plenty of chopped spring onions, and a main course salad of chilli roasted salmon is a hearty dish with the fish joined by roast red peppers, green beans and waxy baby potatoes in a herby olive oil dressing. With few alternative eateries in the immediate vicinity, the restaurant can get extremely busy, so booking is advised on weekends and holidays. + Pies to be proud of - Can feel a little cold and impersonal

Saramago CafĂŠ Bar

CCA, 350 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3JD See Vegetarian

Tramway CafĂŠ Bar

Tron Theatre

63 Trongate, Merchant City, G1 5HB (Map 7: C2, 38) 0141 552 8587, tron.co.uk | Mon noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;4pm; Tueâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;8pm; Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;4pm. [Bar open: Tueâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat 10amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;midnight; Sun 11amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;6pm; Mon 10amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;6pm, later on show nights.] Veg; HW ÂŁ13.50; Kids; Wh. ÂŁ14 (lunch) / ÂŁ16 (dinner)

â&#x153;ą HITLIST ARTS VENUES â&#x153;ą Art Loverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CafĂŠ Delicious flavours, excellent cooking and exquisite presentation in a classy Mackintosh-designed setting. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lunch, elevated. â&#x153;ą The Green Room Sophisticated, seasonal cooking in smart surroundings makes this a dining experience worth pursuing. â&#x153;ą The Hidden Lane Tearoom Quirky, cute and clearly a labour of love, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a perfect spot to sample great baking, excellent hot dishes or a dreamy afternoon tea. their 10 percent discount, the Tronâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worth visiting even if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not taking in a show. + Comfort food in comfortable surroundings - Staff become very busy at intervals

a place for everyone WWW NTS ORG UK

POLLOK HOUSE $ELICIOUS HOME BAKING s AFTERNOON TEA s SEASONAL PRODUCE s LOCAL INGREDIENTS s PRIVATE FUNCTIONS s MOUTH WATERING MENUS

25 Albert Drive, Southside, G41 2PE (Map 8: D1, off) 0141 276 0953, tramway.org | Tueâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat 9.30amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;8pm; Sun noonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;6pm. Closed Mon. [Octâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Mar, Tueâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Sat 9.30amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; 5pm.] Veg; Pre; HW ÂŁ14.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. ÂŁ10 (lunch) / ÂŁ11.50 (set dinner)

Tramwayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been part of Glasgowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s arts landscape for over 20 years now, and is still evolving. At any time it might play host to a challenging art installation, a dance project for mixed abilities or a mother and baby meet-up. The cafĂŠ clientele reflects this diversity â&#x20AC;&#x201C; youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re as likely to be queuing beside perfectly postured dancers from Scottish Ballet as you are excited toddlers from a storytelling session. Occupying much of the ground floor space, the cafĂŠ spills out into the serene Hidden Gardens in fine weather. The menu covers soup and ciabatta sandwich choices as well as more substantial offerings. A warm salad of puy lentils, sautĂŠed mixed mushrooms and chorizo enhances the earthy pulses with a robust vinegar dressing, making a satisfying dish. Butterflied chicken breast is perked up with Cajun spices and happily matched with sweet potato mash

3TEP BACK IN TIME WITH A VISIT TO THE ATMOSPHERIC %DWARDIAN +ITCHEN 2ESTAURANT AND THEN ENJOY EXPLORING THE MAGNIlCENT HOUSE AND GARDENS

0OLLOK #OUNTRY 0ARK 0OLLOKSHAWS 2OAD 'LASGOW ' !4 4HE .ATIONAL 4RUST FOR 3COTLAND FOR 0LACES OF (ISTORIC )NTEREST OR .ATURAL "EAUTY IS A CHARITY REGISTERED IN 3COTLAND #HARITY .UMBER 3#

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 111

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BARS & PUBS

list.co.uk

Glasgow

BARS & PUBS

TABLE Talk : PAMELA CLOCHERTY ON INSPIRATIONAL WRITER AND CRAFTER ELSPETH THOMPSON I first discovered writer Elspeth Thompson a few years ago when I was given a copy of her book, Handmade: Gorgeous Things to Make with Love, for my birthday. This book rekindled a need in me to design, bake and create beautiful things. Wholesome pastimes that were food for my soul. It inspired me to enjoy life’s simple pleasures and make use of what I had. This spurred a huge change in career. Cushion & Cake was born – a cute and quirky tearoom serving loose tea in vintage cups, delicious cakes, soup and chunky sandwiches. An oasis of refreshments and craft delights on Old Dumbarton Road. The tearoom was lovingly put together, upcycling as much as I could. Chairs and tables, crockery and cutlery were all given a new lease of life. It has as much love and thought put into it as you would your own home. I want it to feel like you are having a cuppa with me in my kitchen. Surrounded by pastel bursts of colour to lift blue days. There’s creativity everywhere in the tearoom from the handmade items for sale by independent designers to the Sunday Crafternoon. On Crafternoon days the tearoom is transformed into a workshop where people come to learn a new skill and get to take something lovely away with them. Thompson and Kirstie Allsopp would be proud. Elspeth Thompson would champion simplicity, this is why the food at Cushion & Cake is unpretentious and nutritious, the cakes delicious and nostalgic. A simple pleasure such as tea becomes a ceremony where you can steal a moment of calm back from your busy life. ■ Pamela Clocherty is the owner of Cushion & Cake (see page 135).

So many things can make a good bar or pub: the atmosphere, décor or location; an expansive range of beers and spirits, or just a great pint of Tennent’s. The food’s important too, perhaps a kitchen straddling the ‘bar’ and ‘bistro’ markets with a global menu of crowd-pleasers, or somewhere more traditional, but with local ingredients and classy touches. The holy trinity of pizzas, pastas and burgers continues to be immensely popular so if a place excels at such wares, we’ve mentioned that too – pub grub need not be fancy, and often shouldn’t be. All in all, there are only two givens: a) it will serve alcohol, and b) if it does desserts, it does sticky toffee pudding. Reviewers: Steven Dick, David Kirkwood, Lewis Renton, Kevin Scott

The Admiral

72a Waterloo Street, City Centre, G2 7DA (Map 6: B4, 89) 0141 221 7705, theadmiralbar.com | Mon–Fri noon–8pm; Sat/Sun 1–8pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11am–midnight; Fri/Sat 11am–3am; Sun 12.30–6pm.] HW £9.30; Wh. £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Stained-glass details and polished brass fittings that run around the interior give the Admiral hallmarks of an oldfashioned Glasgow pub. Throw in modern countermeasures like the clean lines of the new furniture and the cool music on the stereo and you have a well-balanced drinking den – relaxed and comfortable if you’re on your tod, good crack if there’s a crowd. Food-wise, it’s pretty much got this area of town to itself and accordingly plays it safe with pizzas (very good ones), burgers and ‘classic mains’, all of which keep the steady stream of office workers happy. Cajun chicken is well-seasoned; steak pie has a rich and tasty gravy. Every few months the menu changes, gradually evolving into something slightly more upmarket – the specials board points in that direction with dishes like Spanish casserole or a Vietnamese pork sandwich. The Admiral is always one to keep in mind. + The basement is an excellent nightclub - Bit of a walk to get to

The Arches Café Bar & Restaurant

253 Argyle Street, City Centre, G2 8DL See Arts Venues

The Art School

The Beresford Building, 468 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3LW (Map 6: A2, 5) 0141 353 4410, theartschool.co.uk | Mon– Fri 10am–10pm; Sat/Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 12.30pm–midnight.] Veg; HW £8; Wh; T/A. £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

While the Glasgow School of Art is renovated, the union has made its home here in the Beresford building. It’s suitably scruffed up –- creative doodles on the wall, candle-lit tables, and lots of students (though all are welcome). There’s a friendly, arty atmosphere, with a bit of of the Vic Bar’s spirit (and cheap beer) in there too. The succinct menu can be a bit out there: quinoa, which tastes like a cross between couscous and rice, comes mixed with basmati, atop sweet potato, amongst cucumber, yoghurt and pomegranate. Not for everyone, but it’s

full of textures, with a delicate nuttiness. On the other end of the spectrum, ox cheek pudding is a deep, meaty fellow, offset by a suet casing. Old-fashioned and really rather good. For the very fair prices, and with the pretty unique vibe of the place, it’s a welcome addition to the Sauchiehall strip. + The bohemian atmosphere - . . . but it’s too ‘studenty’ for some

Babbity Bowster

16–18 Blackfriars Street, Merchant City, G1 1PE (Map 7: D4, 46) 0141 552 5055, babbitybowster.com | Mon–Sat noon–10pm; Sun 12.30–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30pm– midnight.] HW £15. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Located in an old tobacco merchant’s house on the periphery of the Merchant City, Babbity Bowster is a pleasantly secluded place for a drink and some good food, particularly in the beer garden if the sun is shining on this evocative street. Babbity could be in numerous European countries, thanks to an unfussy, original interior, that borders on the stark but is reassuringly worn-in. The French posters reflect a connection here that culminates in the Franco-Scots restaurant Schottische upstairs, while the bar offers Scottish food such as creamy Cullen skink, stovies, west coast seafood and haggis. An occasional tapas menu has a fun trio of mini burgers. If you tire of the bling nearby, Babbity is the antidote, especially when the folky musicians gather on a Saturday afternoon. + A Glasgow classic - Tapas menu not always on

Baby Grand

3–7 Elmbank Gdns, City Centre, G2 4NQ See Bistros & Brasseries

The Bank Café Bar

443 Clarkston Road, Southside, G44 3LL (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 637 8461, thebankglasgow.co.uk | Mon–Thu 11–8.45pm; Fri/Sat 11–9.45pm; Sun noon–8.45pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30–11pm.] HW £11.95; Kids; Wh. £11.50 (lunch) / £11.50 (dinner)

The Maclay Inns group, five of whose premises are featured in this section, tend to choose interesting buildings for their ventures that add a nice bit of character. In the case of The Bank it is, indeed, a former bank, now popular residential café/bar, with a little lingering touch of the grandiose about its high ceilings, marble and mahogany finish. Lots of windows make it particularly pleasant when the sun is shining, and there’s a cracking mezzanine with it’s own TV for when the football’s on. This place is best as a bar – homely, but classy, with a quiet buzz about it. Food is straight up the middle, with old favourites like nachos and fish and chips doing exactly what it says on the tin. And like all Maclay venues, there’s an ever-changing array of food offers which can represent great value, and free internet. + Décor and atmosphere - Rather predictable food

Bar Soba

• 116–122 Byres Rd, West End, G12 8TB • 11 Mitchell Lane, City Centre, G1 3NU See Far East

Bar Gambrino

372–374 Great Western Road, West End, G4 9HT (Map 9: G2, 73) 0141 357 3071, gambrino.com | Mon–Sat noon–10pm; Sun 12.30pm–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 12.30pm–midnight.] Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

With a fantastic 2-for-1 pizza deal and a beer collection that is unrivalled in the West End, it is no surprise that Bar Gambrino is a hive of activity throughout the week. Despite providing a range of main meals of a similar standard to its sister restaurant , which sits opposite, the bars selling point really is its extraordinarily extensive beer menu, helpfully arranged so as to list their wares by country of origin. Standouts among the bottled variety include Quilmes, of Argentina, and the Belgian Delirium Tremens, while the more adventurous drinker should ask to try the beer of the week. Pick of the mains is the steak pie, served with delightfully fluffy mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables, while all of the pizzas provide ample satisfaction, especially when bought in conjunction with the great value-formoney deal. + Bottled beer range appears endless - Service is efficient rather than friendly

✱ Bar Gandolfi

64 Albion Street, Merchant City, G1 1NY (Map 7: C2, 25) 0141 552 4462/6813, cafegandolfi.com | Mon–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun noon–11pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun noon–midnight.] HW £18.50. £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

It may no longer be a hidden secret, but the bar in the loft above Café Gandolfi still offers an intimate seclusion difficult to find in Merchant City. Inside, stunning handcrafted furniture contrasts with exposed metal beams overhead that somehow balance perfectly. The menu is unashamedly Scottish, and replicates the offering downstairs. This is complemented with a decent selection of Scottish beer, a vast array of malts, and one of the largest selections of wines by the glass in the city. Starters a sweet and savoury mix of white pudding and apples can be enjoyed as a full meal. Typical mains include delicate smoked haddie served on a bed of crushed celeriac mash. Specials change daily, and can feature the likes of Moroccan-influence chicken skewers that come alive with harissa, served with pitta and chargrilled veg. The bar may have remained under the radar next its better-known brethren, but to escape and enjoy, it’s worth climbing the stairs. + Intimate setting meets magical menu - At the pricier-end for bar dining

Bar 91

91 Candleriggs, Merchant City, G1 1NP (Map 7: C2, 14) 0141 552 5211, bar91. co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–9pm; Fri/Sat noon–5pm; Sun 12.30–5pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30pm– midnight.] Veg; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh. £11.50 (lunch) / £11.50 (dinner)

Regularly filled with an eclectic mix of professionals, students and families, Bar 91’s welcoming vibe and contemporary interior see it busy all day. In addition to the usual array of mainstream lagers, there are beers from the nearby West Brewery, while the wine list offers enough for every taste. There are some slight variances between day and evening menus, with thin-crust pizzas replacing sandwiches. A range of chunky burgers are available on both, along with sharing plates of tapas; among them an interesting mezze that includes huge balls of wholesome falafel. Adventurous mains like slow-cooked beef stew and ever-changing specials show the bar cares as much about food as it does drinks and the recent addition of a Sunday roast highlights a venue that doesn’t rest on its laurels, keeping even its most regular customers captivated. + Filling lunch of a burger and a WEST beer - Can be tough to get a table

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Glasgow and seasoned really well – hinting at a deft kitchen. Sure enough, pork Milanese is properly crispy on the outside, juicy within, with a hint of lemon, while tuna fillet is served simple: capers and sliced chilli placed on top, so the fish comes through. Great cooking – and the pretheatre deal, offering every dish on the menu, is great value. + More character than many menus in this section - Walking by all the other Bath St bars to get here!

The Belle

617 Great Western Road, West End, G12 8HX (Map 9: E1, 55) 0141 339 2299 | Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–midnight. HW £13.50; Wh.

The Pot Still (page 121): with 370 whiskies, no other bar comes close

Bar Ten

10 Mitchell Lane, City Centre, G1 3NU (Map 6: D4, 79) 0141 572 1448, navantaverns.com/bar10 | Mon–Wed 11am–4pm; Thu 11am–8pm; Fri 11am– 4pm; Sat 10am–6.30pm; Sun noon–6pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 10am–midnight; Sun noon–midnight.] HW £9–£13.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Bar Ten’s narrow space, alongside its zinc tables, marble bartop and alley-way location, has always given it a rather European feel. And it still retains a bit of an edge from its glory days as a ‘pre-club’ venue, too, with an older, but trendy, crowd frequenting at night, and paintings by local artists hanging from the walls. It celebrates its 21st birthday this year and to honour this there are plans to bring back some DJ events and focus more on the evening crowd. That’s not to neglect the steady stream of shoppers and workers who inevitably take advantage of its situation off Buchanan Street as well as a menu offering a simple selection, including lasagne, nachos and burgers – all made in-house with quality mince and

well-priced for the portions – which keeps the lunchtime brigade happy and well fed. + Cool vibe - Menu tends towards all things mincebased

✱ The Bath Street Pony

207 Bath Street, City Centre, G2 4HZ (Map 6: B2, 18) 0141 221 9444, bathstreetpony.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–9pm; Fri/Sat noon–10pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat noon–3am.] Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh. £8.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

After a few name changes over the last decade, this venue seems to have finally found its feet as the Bath Street Pony, now enjoying its third year in the guide. Ironically, the décor hasn’t changed since previous incarnations – the contrast of open brickwork, light wood and lots of glass. Always cool and modern. Their approach is triple-pronged: a cocktail bar with lots of offers, playing soul and funk, and serving Mediterranean food that wouldn’t be out of place in a bistro. To start, salt and pepper squid is both cooked

The Ben Nevis

1147 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8TB (Map 9: E6, 130) 0141 576 5204, thebennevis.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–5pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 12.30–midnight.] HW £12.95; Kids.

The Ben Nevis is well worth a visit if you’re after whisky, contemporary Scottish folk or just a chance to hang out with some real Glaswegians in an agreeable environment. With slabs of slate, ropes and wood, the interior evokes a fantastical Highland bothy complete with climbing wall packed with malt whisky – over a hundred of them, including vintage speciality casks and the popular Compass Box range. The plaque indicating they are an accredited Whisky Ambassador is reassuring and with some of the most knowledgeable bar staff in town there isn’t a better stop in Finnieston for a dram. On-tap options include Addlestones cider, IPA and the sweet, fruity Munich Red from the West

BARS & PUBS ✱ Bar Gandolfi Secreted above the much-loved café, this lofty, good-looking spot is no secret but it feels like one – excellent food ascends from downstairs ✱ The Bath Street Pony Proper cocktails, a classy Italian menu and a great pre-theatre deal are three reasons why this place is one of the best on the street from which it takes its name. ✱ Bruadar Newcomer with a neat line in premium beer, cask ales and genuinely good burgers. ✱ The Finnieston Classy cocktails and an impressively ambitious fish menu in a bar that evokes coastal charm. ✱ Ivy An unusual mezze menu and exuberant staff combine to make this an outstanding spot on the Finnieston strip. ✱ Macsorley’s Traditional pub with a modern edge, serving full-on Scottish fare with some stylishness thrown in. ✱ Nice ’n’ Sleazy Ever popular den of indie-cool that now has a kitchen to match its attitude, with gourmet burgers, sandwiches and stews. ✱ Slouch Rock ‘n’ roll music until the early hours, with a skilful kitchen turning out lovely food, especially on their ‘market menu’. ✱ The Two Figs An eclectic menu, good cocktails and a great atmosphere make for a top destination.

A Finnieston gem ideally situated for the City Centre, West End & SECC

The finest fresh, local food served 7 days a week

Great Selection of Draught Beers, 300+ Spirits, Premium Cocktails & Wonderful Wine

unique wine list, large malt selection & delicious cocktails 128 DRYMEN ROAD, BEARSDEN, G61 3RB TEL 0 1 4 1 9 4 2 7 2 7 2

Quirky and arty, the Belle is arguably one of the West End’s hidden gems. An establishment like no other, its décor resembles a Scottish manor house, with deer heads adorning the walls, and a large open fire that ensures the small bar is always toasty. At weekends it can be tough to find a seat in here, but squeezing in is definitely worth the effort, with friendly patrons and even friendlier bar staff ensuring that you will thoroughly enjoy your evening. Impromptu musical performances from customers are nothing out of the ordinary, simply adding to the unique ambience, with the malt of the month maintaining the Scottish undertone. With free wifi and fantastic coffee for only 99p throughout the day, the bar is also a hit with students and office dwellers alike, looking for a more relaxed atmosphere to complete their work. + Great range of imported lagers - No food served

✱ HITLIST

1004 Argyle St, Glasgow, G3 8LU Tel: 0141 243 2170 www.thebrassmonkeyglasgow.co.uk info@thebrassmonkeyglasgow.co.uk bookings@den-bearsden.com www.den-bearsden.com The List Eating & Drinking Guide 113

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Glasgow brewery. Sessions on Wednesday, Sunday and Thursday see the best local musical talent gather for a wee drink and a tune. + The whisky wall - No food except pie and beans

Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am.] Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £10 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Attached to the Bovine restaurant, Bobar provides a classy drinking haven to escape the hustle and bustle of Byres Road. Lauded for its cocktails, the bar has an extensive menu that does not disappoint, the ‘Pocket Pear’ standing out among a list that combines expected classics and in-house specials and rotates seasonally. The wine list is also impressive in its depth, and a cluster of outside tables are sure to re-enforce Bobar’s status as a venue ideal for drinks as the nights grow longer. The food menu offers a tapas-style experience, allowing the choice of large sharing platters supplemented by a range of tantalising smaller dishes. Staple tapas dishes given a Scottish twist are particularly worth a go, haggis nachos and Stornoway black pudding bites notably hitting the spot. + Cocktails are delightful - No mains – only platters

Bier Halle / Bier Hof

• 9 Gordon Street, City Centre, G1 3PL (Map 6: D4, 81) 0141 204 0706, republicbierhalle.com | Mon–Sat noon–10pm; Sun 12.30–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 12.30pm– midnight.] Veg; HW £15.75 (litre); Kids; T/A. £5.50 (set lunch) / £10 (dinner) • 323 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3WH (Map 6: B2, 9) 0141 353 0953, republicbierhalle.com | Sun–Wed 5–10pm; Thu–Sat noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Wed 5pm–midnight; Thu–Sat noon– midnight; Sun 12.30–midnight.] HW £13.95 (litre); T/A. £4.95 (set lunch) / £10 (dinner)

When the Bier Halle opened 13 years ago, lager enthusiasts embraced its ‘authentic German beer hall’ layout and menu of over 60 beers. Who would have anticipated that it would have pioneered a two-for-one pizza revolution that has now reached seemingly half the bars in Glasgow? But this place still makes some of the best – thinnest possible bases, reassuringly charred, blistered and misshapen, as they appear on wooden serving boards. Gourmet toppings like chicken tikka (a dry dusting of spice, a cool trickle of yoghurt); black pudding (the Stornoway kind, thick cut, moist, with a fried egg); and merguez sausage (a pleasant variation on pepperonis and chorizos) sit alongside the classic varieties. The industrial stone walls haven’t really datedl, and the outstanding beer selection is still comfortably the biggest in town, which all may explain why this place is often packed (even on schoolnights). Little brother the Bier Hof has a scaled-down (still respectable) selection of bottled beers but focuses a bit more on spirits and the pre-club crowd due to its Sauchiehall Street location. + Probably the best pizzas outside the Italian section - No card payments accepted

TIPList FOR FOOD • The Butterﬂy and the Pig Kooky and fun with great cooking 116 • Chinaski’s Consistently high-quality food amid cool vibes 116 • Hillhead Book Club Quirky and amusing menu; serious food 118 • The Lansdowne Delicious dishes at this secluded basement 119 • Lebowskis Carefully sourced and wellprepared dude food 119 • Mulberry Street Bar Consistently excellent bistro offerings 120 • The Roxy 171 Good dining for all at this slick newcomer 121

Booly Mardy’s

28 Vinicombe Street, West End, G12 8BE (Map 9: D1, 47) 0141 560 8004, bloodymarys.co.uk | Mon–Fri 10.30am– 8pm; Sat/Sun 10.30am–8pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 10.30am–midnight.] Veg; HW £15.95; Kids; Wh. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

The Finnieston (page 117): great seafood and cocktails at this newcomer

The Big Blue

445 Great Western Road, G12 8HH See Italian

Black Sparrow

241 North Street, City Centre, G3 7DL (Map 9: H5, 88) 0141 221 5530, theblacksparrow.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–9pm; Sun 12.30–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat 12.30pm–1am. Sun 1.30pm–midnight.] Veg; Pre; HW £15.95; Kids; Wh. £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

The Black Sparrow is certainly an attractive room, packed with original details, with a huge ornate bar that runs the length of the space and lots of rather cute booths perfectly made for two. There’s a mezzanine level for larger groups and a much larger space in the basement available for hire or dancing to resident DJs from 9pm. There’s plenty of deals running that show real value including a comprehensive burger menu that is 2-for-1 from Sunday to 5pm Friday. A weekday tapas deal of 3 for £10 is mini versions of pub classics, which might include a twee little burger, beerbattered tiger prawns or Thai fishcakes. With so many offers running it’s worth grabbing a bargain in very agreeable surroundings. + Tapas deal good value - Booths a bit tight for more that two

Bar Bloc+

117 Bath Street, City Centre, G2 2SZ (Map 6: C2, 42) 0141 574 6066, bloc.ru | Mon–Sun 11am–3am. HW £11.95; T/A; D.

From the mural of Brezhnev and Honecker kissing that greets you upon entrance to the imposing wooden benches one must then clamber into, Bloc is anything but subtle. And nor should it be, with live entertainment and a late licence all week. Its disheveled nature makes it all the more comfortable as evening rolls on. Food is a similar approach: stodgy favourites whose principal aim is to fill you up, good and proper. Chicken and chorizo pasta is baked and laden with

cheddar, as rich as they come – macaroni cheese for a carnivore. A chorizo and black pudding burger sees these two mixed through a gigantic slab of beef, too dense and dry for some, but as meaty as meaty gets. And the pizzas, which are nice and crispy, are served right up until closing time. Some good beers – Krusovice, Blue Moon – on tap, too. + Great atmosphere for late night eating and drinking - Not for the calorie conscious

Blue Dog

151 West George Street, City Centre, G2 2JJ (Map 6: D3, 106) 0141 229 0707, bluedogglasgow.com | Bar open: Mon– Thu 4pm–3am; Fri/Sat 3pm–3am; Sun 6pm–3am. HW £14.95; Kids; Wh.

Many bars in Glasgow have a cocktail menu but few can properly call themselves cocktail bars. Blue Dog can. Its intimate dimensions, dark, sultry colour scheme and the piano that sits in the middle of the room all give it an air of sophistication. And it’s open until 3am each night – definitely one of the more civilized places to continue drinking on in this fair city. There are long, short, martini, and champagne selections, as well as a playful ‘blast from the past’ range that brings back the Emily Emily (raspberry vodka, gin, lemon, lime and cranberry). There are luxurious options like the ‘Devil’s Desire’ (bourbon, vermouth and a plethora of extravagant liqueurs) or ‘Teenage Temptress’ (Blackwood’s gin, peach and hibiscus liqueur and grapefruit juice) and nothing is made with mainstream brands. The slick, knowledgeable staff, can mix ‘off menu’ as required and will happily talk through the options. + It’s suaveness - Service can be slow when busy

Bobar

383 Byres Road, West End, G12 8AU (Map 9: D1, 49) 0141 341 6516, bovinerestaurant.com | Mon–Sat noon– 9pm; Sun noon–4pm. [Bar open: Sun–

Attracting the West End’s young professionals is a tough task thanks to the multitude of slick bars in the area, but Booly Mardys appears to have cracked the formula. Teeming with patrons at the weekends, the bar prides itself on the quality of its cocktails, the eponymous ‘Booly Mardy’ a particular favourite, spiced to your personal level of choice with tabasco. Cocktail selection is made all the easier by the bar’s hand-written cocktail menus, packed with information about each and every alcoholic delight on offer. Although the focus is very much behind the bar, the kitchen also does a sterling job, turning out traditional dishes with a sophisticated edge, fish and chips with a mouthwatering pea purée proving a particularly attractive proposition. Be sure to leave some space for pudding, as you will not want to miss out on the sticky toffee pudding. + Broad and informative cocktail menu - No children admitted

Boteco do Brasil

62 Trongate, Merchant City, G1 5EP See Round the World

Boudoir Wine Bar

Merchant Square, Candleriggs, City Centre, G1 1LE (Map 7: C2, 26) 0141 552 4774, boudoirwinebar.com | Mon–Sun 10am–midnight. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 10am–midnight.] HW £15.45; Kids; Wh. £9 (lunch) / £9 (dinner)

It might be easy for a Glaswegian to look at Boudoir and think ‘Nah, not for me’. With its purple, flouncy, feminine appearance it looks perhaps out of place and might be better suited to Paris than the Merchant City. But it would be a mistake to pass it by. Inside there’s a very welcoming, neighbourhood bar that just happens to serve great wine. A notice board says it is a ‘wee place with a big heart’ and as an indication, the manager refuses party bookings to take over completely, reserving at all times a table for regulars. Carefully selected wines are the focus, with a sampler of three different red or white wines for the bargain £8.95, or £12.95 with nibbles – the organic Viognier makes the white worth plumping for. Food – mixed plates, olives and toasted sandwiches – is assembled rather than cooked, but then again, it’s nicely assembled. In any case,

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Glasgow the wine is the main attraction. + Chilled organic Viognier - Not good if you are starving

The Brass Monkey

1004 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8LZ (Map 9: F6, off) 0141 243 2170, thebrassmonkeyglasgow.co.uk | Mon– Sat noon–9pm; Sun 12.30–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 12.30–midnight.] Veg; HW £14; Wh. £9 (lunch) / £9 (dinner)

The Brass Monkey has a lot going for it. Aesthetically it works, from the bespoke slate bar, the large booths ideal for groups to the display of over 300 spirits – it’s certainly a pleasant room. The owner’s wine trade connections means the list is more exciting than one might imagine with appealing selections from around the world: Ad Hoc Wallflower Riesling from Australia, French Viognier and even a slightly sparkling rose from Pendes near Barcelona, which the owner imports after a holiday sampling. Speciality beers include a good American selection, stretching from Brooklyn Lager to San Francisco’s Anchor Steam. No kitchen limits the food to dishes that can be quickly assembled by the bar staff. Soup, sandwiches and tasty platters, which are attractively served on a slate, the hot and cold smoked salmon is top quality and comes with excellent bread and a homemade horseradish dip with a fiery kick. + Impressive selections of speciality beers, wines and spirits - Menu layout not as well designed as rest of the bar

Brel

39–43 Ashton Lane, West End, G12 8SG (Map 9: D2, 29) 0141 342 4966, brelbarrestaurant.com | Mon–Sun

noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon– midnight; Sun 12.30pm–midnight.] HW £14; Wh. £15 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Brel’s become a West End fixture not just for its European-influenced food and drink but for a certain relaxed continental vibe giving it a rare sophistication so close to the university. The back beergarden fills up on sunny days and also offers a refuge from the often heaving Ashton Lane at night. The former stables and coach house is loosely divided into three: the small bar facing the street, with shoogly metal tables and dark wood; the back restaurant area, for more formal dining; and the glassy annex facing the garden. Belgian beers and mussels are specialities – the latter coming in generous pots with tangy flavours like cider, mustard and smoked bacon in their dribbly sauce. They also offer a selection of small, tapas-style plates, many unusual. On bigger plates, unsurprisingly their steak frites are good quality, with tender aged steak and loads of crispy little chips. + Relaxed, friendly service - No quiet corners when there’s music on

BrewDog Glasgow

1397 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8AN (Map 9: D4, 135) brewdog.com | Sun–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu noon–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–midnight.] HW £14; Wh. £8 (one-course lunch) / £8 (one-course dinner)

BrewDog is the shop window for the Fraserburgh-based craft brewery which has been making headlines around the world. And what a beautiful window it is, overlooking the Kelvingrove Museum. The interior is super cool yet entirely welcoming, but it’s the beer menu which really commands attention, without

the generic or commercial in sight, the aim being to challenge your palette and discover new flavours. There’s the modern classics: Punk IPA, 5am Saint, Trashy Blonde – stronger beers are sold by the half or third pint while the Tactical Nuclear Penguin (32% abv) is available only in 25ml nips. Yes, you could get trashed but the atmosphere and ethos is about taste and experience. All are chemical free and suitable for vegans. Food is simple in comparison – attractive burgers, cheese and meat boards or a genuinely excellent stone-baked pizza. + Palate-expanding booze - Small kitchen runs slow

are also brunch choices until 5pm, sharing boards with mini burgers, and salads. With Scottish craft beer favourites from BrewDog, Tempest and Black Isle joining eight rotating cask/keg ales from other innovative global breweries, it’s hard to know what to drink – although the thirdpint measures certainly help. + Impressive beer selection - You might have to share a table

✱ Bruadar

193–199 Bath Street, City Centre, G2 4HU (Map 6: B2, 22) 0141 229 1427, thebunkerbar.com | Mon–Sat noon–9pm; Sun 12.30–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Wed noon–1am; Thu noon–2am; Fri/Sat noon– 3am; Sun 12.30pm–1am.] Pre; HW £13; Kids. £9.95 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

The Millhouse, 2 Partickbridge Street, West End, G11 6PL (Map 9: B4, 11) 0141 337 1200, fullerthomson.com | Mon–Sun 10am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 10am– midnight.] Pre; HW £12.75; Kids; Wh. £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Opened in late 2011, Bruadar is an attractive, minimalistic venue over two floors with bench seating downstairs and a more intimate mezzanine, all flooded with light from the large window. Theirs is a simple enough formula – beer and a burger – but with so many quality variables it is one which delivers genuinely satisfying results. Twenty burgers include the expected beefy standards, a few chicken and five vegetarian – all individually named, including ‘the chilli death’ with its accompanying health warning. Wellpresented, impressively generous, and accompanied by a cute bucket of skinny chips, coleslaw and dill pickle, they come in at nice prices that are even nicer before 6pm when select burgers cost £6. There

Brutti Ma Buoni

Brunswick Hotel, 106 Brunswick Street, Merchant City, G1 1TF See Bistros & Brasseries

Bunker

For such grand subterranean dimensions, Bunker does an impressive job of always feeling busy. Even during quiet afternoons a healthy young crowd fills the bright, airy space. When lights go down and the indie/chart music gets louder, it’s busier still – and advisable to reserve a table if eating. If so, it’s hard to see beyond the hand-made burgers, which take top spot on the menu and come blackened and smoky from a chargrill that surely takes similar pride of place in the kitchen. Even the bandito’s fiery kick of chillies and pepperjack cheese doesn’t overpower the barbecued taste of the meat. Mushroom and falafel versions are available for vegetarians, and the original ‘Bunker Burger’ is on the ‘15-minute meal’ lunchtime menu. Elsewhere, modern pub

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Glasgow classics – Thai green curry, monkfish scampi – fill a hole, but by far the most popular choices are the those burgers, with good reason. + Atmosphere . . . and burgers! - Evenings can be a bit ‘full-on’ for some

The Butchershop Bar & Grill

1055 Sauchiehall St, West End, G3 7UD See Bistros & Brasseries

The Butterfly and the Pig

153 Bath Street, City Centre, G2 4SQ (Map 6: C2, 35) 0141 221 7711, thebutterflyandthepig.com | Mon–Thu noon–9pm; Fri/Sat noon–9.30pm; Sun 12.30–8pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am– 3am; Sun 12.30pm–midnight.] HW £12; Kids. £15.50 (lunch) / £15.50 (dinner)

The kooky appearance of the Butterfly and the Pig – all mismatched furniture and naff wallpaper – give it a real comfort during the daytime that neighbouring Bath St bars can lack, while eclectic resident bands and a 2am licence (Tuesday, Friday, Saturday) ensure its popularity with a healthy cross-section of Glaswegians later on. It’s great for food, too. An ever-changing menu – all of it fresh – of zanily named Scottish food is to be had, like their signature ‘open’ fishcake, presented in a Le Creuset pan, packed with potato and salmon, and a creamy egg oozing through. Lighter options are equally well-balanced; say, a salad of salty bacon and black pudding (the dish’s title is too ridiculous to print), competently held together by parmesan shavings with the bold, juicy contrast of apple slices. A most agreeable haunt. + The emphasis on freshness and changing menus - Separate dining section means you might miss the atmosphere of the bar

The Captain’s Rest

185 Great Western Road, West End, G4 9EB (Map 9: H3, 76) 0141 332 7304, captainsrest.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon– midnight.] Veg; HW £12.50; T/A. £8.50 (lunch) / £8.50 (dinner)

that this bright and spacious bar is popular with tourists and students. A mezzanine provides a good viewing platform, neatly segrating itself from the bar with more of a tearoom ambience. The bar gantry is full of familiar brands, and the wine list is surprisingly decent for a bar of this sort. Food doesn’t stray far from pub favourites, with a heavy Scottish influence, such as the filling haggisstuffed beef olives with mash. A burger is given added tang with a splash of Merlot, and there’s a range of ciabattas for those seeking something a little lighter. Homemade cakes make dessert unavoidable, and if you leave feeling full there’s always the option to take a turn around the Necropolis. A worthwhile spot in a fairly dry part of town. + Great location for sightseeing - Bit too generous with the gravy

Chinaski’s

239 North Street, West End, G3 7DL (Map 9: H5, 89) 0141 221 0061, chinaskis.com | Mon–Sat noon–9pm; Sun 11am—9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am–midnight.] Veg; Pre; HW £14; Kids (before 6pm); Wh. £13 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Named after a Charles Bukowski alter ego, Chinaski’s maintains its underground roots by eschewing any signage on the exterior in an effort to deter large groups of rowdy drinkers from nearby Sauchiehall Street. During daylight hours the bar is bright and welcoming but as night falls candles are lit and lights dimmed, making it one of the most popular first date spots in town for the working professional. The menu has an American slant focusing on big tasty burgers, pasta and sandwiches – ham on rye being an obligatory favourite. A good daytime deal offers a choice from ten meals for £5.95, while the evening menu ramps up a gear seeing whitebait, tempura or a smoked haddock omelette alongside steak and pork fillet mains. Those in for a drink can raise one of many interesting bourbons to the somewhat temperanceinducing spirit of Bukowski. From 11pm the bar’s sister venue the Berkley Suite

opens offering late-night drinking and DJs for the thirty-something crowd. + Speakeasy vibe for those in the know - No sign is cool, but could confuse

Church on the Hill

16 Algie Street, Southside, G41 3DJ (Map 8: C5, 27) 0141 636 9171, churchonthehill. co.uk | Sun–Sat noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 12.30– midnight.] Kids; Wh. £8.45 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

For someone who’s never seen it before, the Church on the Hill is pretty stunning – a refurbished church that looks like the Parthenon in Greece, facing on to Queen’s Park. It really is a lovely venue, and very popular with a cross-section of Southsiders, from families through to a rather more boisterous crowd in the evening. Lots of flat screen TVs with good vantage points, and a well-stocked bar aimed at the pre-club crowd (with lots of promotions) keep the masses happy. The back section is for eating, doing some mainstream meat and fish dishes (fillet of seabass, chicken supreme) alongside the more popular pastas (of which, king prawn and chorizo linguine has a nice light, pulpy sauce) and good old burgers (including a lamb one), which are nicely priced and well-presented. A worthy alternative to Shawlands, especially in the summer. + Fantastic building - Rowdy and crowdy in the evenings

Citation

40 Wilson Street, Merchant City, G1 1HD See Bistros & Brasseries

Clark & Sons

14 Busby Road, Southside, G76 7XL See Bistros & Brasseries

Clockwork Beer Co

1153–1155 Cathcart Road, Southside, G42 9HB (Map 8: E6, off) 0141 649 0184, clockworkbeercompany.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–8.45pm; Sun 12.30–8.45pm. [Bar open: Mon–Wed 11am–11pm; Thu–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30–11pm.]

Sitting atop of one of the West End’s best known live music venues, the Captain’s Rest is a popular destination for the area’s music lovers. Serving up wholesome, hearty pub fare, the bar constantly provides a source of live entertainment, from quizzes, to open-mic nights and DJ sets. The best atmosphere, however, is to be found before gigs, as expectant fans pack out the bar’s cosy booths before descending downstairs en masse to watch a band. The grub offers excellent value money, the chilli particularly so, a healthy-sized portion packed full of flavour and spice. The bar also offers an excellent range of vegetarian dishes, half of the menu comprising veggie versions of the meat dishes available. Drink prices are fairly low, with a whole range of promotions every night that certainly entice patrons in from the busy thoroughfare that is Great Western Road. + Great range of vegetarian dishes - Can be cramped before gigs

The Clockwork’s food is thoroughly of the pub grub variety, and perfectly agreeable at that. A steak and mushroom pie has decent, thick gravy and a healthy spread of meat underneath crisp puff pastry. Fajitas, cheaper than a lot of places, come on a sizzling platter and sear themselves into your mouth, with a ferocious dry heat. And the sharing platter of the usual deep fried suspects comes with spicy fries as standard – a pleasant bonus. But the two real merits of this place are its microbrewery – from which there are always six on-tap – and its multitude of other draft beers and lagers, some great Belgian bottled ones too. It’s not cheap, but factor in a beer garden, a commitment to showing live football (including all the 3D games), and its proximity to Hampden Park, and it certainly ticks plenty of boxes. + Selection of beers - Comes at a cost

The Common Rooms

71–77 Byres Road, West End, G11 5HN (Map 9: C3, 21) 0141 334 7132 | Mon–Sat 11–9.30pm Sun noon–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am–midnight.] HW £12.99; Kids. £7.95 (set lunch) / £7.95 (dinner)

Having recently been taken over by new owners, the Common Rooms is looking to re-assert itself in the West End. Spruced up, with a brand new fixed-priced menu and a whole array of live entertainment, it appears ready to compete with the densely populated student market. Portions are very much on the large side, ensuring great value for money, and meals that will satisfy even the biggest appetites; most notably the Common Room stack, a double cheeseburger served with bacon, coleslaw and a mountain of chips. The fish and chips dish is also of titanic proportions, leaving little room for dessert, although the temptation of the pudding menu is likely to prove too much. Drinks are reasonably priced, with pints around the £2.50 mark, and with a programme of live entertainment on a nightly basis soon to be launched, the Common Rooms certainly offers a great night that won’t break the bank. + Fantastic value for money - Huge portions potentially off-putting

Curlers Rest

256–260 Byres Road, West End, G12 8SH (Map 9: D1, 38) 0141 341 0737, thecurlersrestglasgow.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon– midnight.] Veg; HW £14; Kids; Wh. £8 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Cathedral House Hotel

28–32 Cathedral Square, East End, G4 0XA (Map 7: E1, off) 0141 552 3519, cathedralhousehotel.org | Mon–Sun noon–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Fri 10am– 11pm; Sat 10am–midnight; Sun 10.30– midnight.] Pre; HW £13.50; Kids; Wh. £12.50 (lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

Taking up the ground floor of an ancient-looking building across from the Necropolis and Cathedral, and close to Strathclyde University, it’s no surprise

HW £11.95; Kids; Wh. £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Bruadar (page 115): combining beers and burgers to great effect

A far cry from its past-life as a student boozer, Curlers Rest is now a sophisticated hang-out with an equally grown-up menu. The reasonably priced, high-quality food provides a pleasant surprise for those who remember the bar being dominated by cheap drinks deals and pub grub that was basic at best. The shin of beef is succulent and perfectly cooked, served with oyster mushrooms and a delicate horseradish and chive mash, while the West Country beef burger suits those with slightly larger appetites. The menu is supported by a large wine list, dominated by new world vintages, and a staggering selection of draught beers, including a number of unusual tipples. The bar is now building a reputation in the West End thanks to its fantastic Sunday afternoon roast dinner, the highlight undoubtedly coming in the shape of the 21-day aged West Country beef cuts, a quite brilliant way to round off the week. + 23 wines served by the glass - Unattractive open kitchen upstairs

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Glasgow Darcy’s

of toasties served with a side-salad and slightly more substantial dishes such as macaroni cheese. The menu is not very extensive, yet ensures the Doublet is an ideal stopping point for a quick bar lunch, as well as a great evening watering hole. + Wide variety of real ales - Only bar snacks rather than full menu

After a refit last winter, Darcy’s has a modern French bistro feel, black and white pictures of Parisian street life on the walls, with brushed-steel detailing evoking a bit of New York too. Wine glasses hang above the bar, twinkling under the spotlights. It’s a great décor change – while an urbane crowd of wellto-do shoppers and the upwardly mobile provide a chatty ambience. Mini burgers are a fun starter, showcasing some high quality, lovely and coarse burger meat. A pulled pork sandwich is moist and really tender, as it should be, marked out by a nice smoky aftertaste. Another nice touch is that it’s served almost cold, so flavour really comes out. In keeping with its bistro tendencies, they do a mean steak frîtes: sirloin, with requisite lattice of charring, on the skinniest of fries with a rich, savoury chausseur sauce tasting of olive oil, stock and tomato. What a difference a year makes. + The gourmet marshmallow with coffee - Bench seats a bit far from the table

The Drake

The Courtyard, Princes Square, City Centre, G1 3JN (Map 6: D4, 77) 0141 226 4309, socialanimal.co.uk | Mon–Sat 9am–10pm; Sun 10am–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30pm– midnight.] LC; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Den Bar & Restaurant

128 Drymen Road, Bearsden, G61 3RB, 0141 942 7272, den-bearsden.com | Mon–Sun noon–9pm. [Bar open: Sat–Thu noon–midnight; Fri noon–1am.] HW £14; Kids; Wh. £12.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

When opening in December 2011, the Den wanted to bring a little bit of the West End to deepest darkest suburbia. They’ve succeeded: it’s a funky place to hang out, have a drink and a bite to eat. Overtones of the swinging sixties can be found in the décor, while the carefully selected playlist of Bob Dylan, the Beatles and some 60s-inspired 90s tunes adds to the atmosphere. Stacks of wine and recommendations on the menu of what to drink with certain dishes give the place a certain one upmanship on your average beer-and-burger joint. The same creativity in the décor has gone into devising the menu. Dishes such as lamb cutlets with black pudding mash and red wine jus show sophistication, while fish and chips with St Mungo’s beer batter and a splodge of ‘special hammy mushy peas’ have that taste of home-cooking. With belt-busting portions and a relaxed buzz, this funky little hollow will make a nice evening’s escape from regular suburban existence out Bearsden way. + Cute and quirky retro vibe - Rock-hard brownie

The Doublet

74 Park Road, West End, G4 9JF (Map 9: G2, 70) 0141 334 1982 | Mon–Sun noon– 8pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 12.30–11pm.] HW £10.95; Kids; Wh. £6 (lunch) / £6 (dinner)

A snug, cosy local; there is more to The Doublet than meets the eye. Having been under the same ownership since its inception over 50 years ago, the bar has understandably built up a trusty following of regulars, who visit to sample the wide range of real ales on offer, as well as the slightly more obscure draught beers, including the Spanish lager, Cruzcampo. Upstairs, the bar lounge houses a wellstocked jukebox that draws in a more youthful, evening crowd, while the close proximity of the Stand comedy club also alters the client demographic before and after shows. There are a variety of bar snacks available, including a selection

1 Lynedoch Street, West End, G3 6EF See Bistros & Brasseries

DRAM!

232–246 Woodlands Road, West End, G3 6ND (Map 9: G3, 78), dramglasgow.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–9pm; Sat–Sun 11am–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am–midnight.] Veg; HW £7.95; Wh; T/A. £4.95 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

As its name may suggest, DRAM! is a whisky drinker’s heaven; a range of over 75 malts providing ample scope for even the most learned of whisky connoisseurs to sample a new nip. A food menu comprising the best of Scottish produce brings in a mixed group of students and regulars, the haggis burger particularly hitting the spot, while pizzas priced at only £4.99 throughout the week draw in the crowds. The house special haggis and jalapeño pizza is particularly worth a punt, a fantastic accompaniment to your choice of pint when watching the big game on one of countless HD big screens, featuring Sky Sports 3D. The bar offers many other forms of live entertainment, the comfy booths and chilled atmosphere particularly suited to enjoying the well-attended live folk music sessions that are held on Thursdays and Sundays. + Staggering variety of malts on offer - Can be busy when sport on

Dukes Bar

up sister to Lebowskis down the road really does looks great, nicely designed and finished, and instantly welcoming – a vibe echoed by the attentive staff. Carefully sourced seafood is king here; a starter of meaty clams and mussels in a champagne and kale broth brings the senses to life with tales of the sea, whereas the scallops with thyme butter have a more refined air. Mains include fresh market fish cooked your favourite way or, from the menu, two whole orange-spotted plaice come with nutty browned butter, capers and pickled cauliflower. Butter is used liberally, in the French style; these are not light dishes but proper food, with the option of a daily meat and vegetarian dish. If the open seas aren’t for you then the enticing cocktails and champagne selection should keep you entertained. + Wide range of seafood - Sparse choice if fish isn’t your thing

Firebird

1321 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8TL See Bistros & Brasseries

The Goat & Grill

1287 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8TL (Map 9: D5, 113) 0141 357 7377, thegoat. co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–8.45pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–midnight.] Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

When the weather’s right the Goat and Grill has one of the largest outdoor seating areas around, while indoors is a small bar with the centre of attention on the big screen showing sporting events. Upstairs the focus is on food but the bar atmosphere filters up, which can be a little disconcerting when a goal’s scored. With DJs playing Friday/Sunday, it’s not the spot for a quiet, intimate meal. Brunch is

served every day til 3pm: large breakfasts, eggs Benedict or a simple bacon sarnie. There’s a comprehensive sandwich and burger menu in addition to the grill menu, which has traditional pub starters of Cullen skink or chicken liver parfait. The braised venison haunch comes in a deep savoury stew with horseradish dumplings, while confit of duck leg is served in a deep bowl with greens and a five-spiced broth. + Efficient service - Bar banter filters upwards

The Grosvenor Café

The Grosvenor Theatre, Ashton Lane, West End, G12 8SJ (Map 9: D2, 31) 0845 166 6028, grosvenorcafe.co.uk | Mon–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–midnight.] LC; Veg; HW £10–14; Kids; Wh; T/A. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Located above the well-known Ashton Lane cinema, the Grosvenor is a bar which captures the atmosphere of the film experience. A large projector screen plays out silent pictures throughout the day, while the bar’s décor harks back to the cinematic grandeur of a bygone era. Afternoon piano recitals throughout the week and the attire of staff (it is not often a barman doffs his cap as you leave a Glasgow watering hole) merely underline this unique, filmic atmosphere. With a fantastic, well-priced menu, including a great tapas-style sharing menu, and a tremendous seasonal cocktail menu to boot, the Grosvenor is understandably one of the busiest Ashton Lane establishments. Despite its cavernous nature, there is usually a bubbling atmosphere, the perfect setting to enjoy a perfectly cooked meal while sipping a Cosmopolitan. + Main dishes are fantastic quality - Atmosphere can be lost due to sheer size

41 Old Dumbarton Road, West End, G3 8RD (Map 9: D5, 133) 0141 339 7821, dukesbarglasgow.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–9pm; Sun 12.30pm–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 12.30pm–midnight.] Veg; HW £14.50; Kids. £9.50 (lunch) / £9.50 (dinner)

Newly opened in 2011, refurbished by the same crew that fitted Epicures and BrewDog, Dukes Bar could easily win awards on style alone. There’s a pleasing reclaimed chic with exposed brickwork and vintage tiling, the booths being particularly well designed with coat hooks, luggage racks and tabletop power points. There’s a sense of humour running throughout, from the blood-red neon ‘bar’ sign and the pre-loved ‘Danger radiation hazard’ signs above the toilets, to the unofficial plaque outside commemorating the Clash’s visit to the site in 1985. On tap are the popular Belhaven ales, Aspall’s cider and more unusually Ashai Superdry as well as competitively priced cocktails. Bar grub is a leap above the norm with bowls of olives and feta, hummus and cashew nuts on offer as well as more substantial platters of meat, cheese or Mediterranean nibbles. There’s also award-winning pies from Mearns T McCaskie – add a pint and it’s yours for a fiver. + Looks great - Limited choice on draft

✱ The Finnieston

1125 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8ND (Map 9: F6, 97) 0141 222 2884 | Mon–Sat noon–9.45pm; Sun noon–8.45pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–midnight.] Pre; HW £16; Kids; Wh. £19 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

As you enter the snug bar decked with rope bannisters, polished wood and boat motifs you could be in a sleepy fishing village pub rather than on the main Finnieston strip. This smarter, more grown

Freshly prepared, locally sourced, seasonal food served all day 0141 552 8587 www.tron.co.uk Tron Theatre 63 Trongate Glasgow G1 5HB The List Eating & Drinking Guide 117

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list.co.uk

Glasgow The Halt Bar

160 Woodlands Road, G3 6LF (Map 9: H4, 126) 0141 564 1527, myspace.com/ haltbarofficial | Mon–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun noon–11pm. HW £10.

Despite not being held in the same regard as the nearby Stand comedy club, the Halt is a bar with comedy at its heart. Live nights are held every Tuesday, proving a hit with regulars as well as overspill patrons from the Stand. Aesthetically, the Halt resembles a standard local boozer, yet the mix of clients is pleasantly surprising; students, young professionals and older locals all counting themselves among the bar’s regulars. It also acts as a hub for young musical talent, hosting frequent acoustic gigs as well as a weekly jazz session, and DJ sets on four nights of the week. There’s no food available in the bar, but cheap deals on spirits and modern beers such as BrewDog’s Punk IPA ensure there is something to offer all drinkers. + Good variety of live entertainment on offer - No food served

Hillhead Bookclub

17 Vinicombe Street, West End, G12 8BE (Map 9: D1, 46) 0141 576 1700, hillheadbookclub.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–10pm; Sat/Sun 10am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Fri noon–midnight; Sat/Sun 10am–midnight.] Veg; HW £14.50; Kids; Wh. £9 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

There are not many places you can indulge in cocktail served in an old gramophone, but that is just one of the many quirky traits that ensures the Hillhead Bookclub is counted among the West End’s coolest hangouts. Food

is of a very high standard, the pie of the day, which may be sausage and chorizo, always proving a prudent decision, while the baby back ribs with sticky cola sauce are delightful, thankfully served with ‘coleslaw and extra napkins’. A wide range of classic and in-house cocktails are all recommendable, the highlight among them the Strawberry Daiquiri, costing only a snip at £4. And for the energetic, there is the opportunity to round-off your evening with a game of table-tennis, the table tucked away in the corner of the bars upper tier always busy with patrons enjoying a match. + Cocktail and food menus both excellent - Incessant noise of ping-pong from above

Horton’s Bar & Kitchen

92 West George Street, City Centre, G2 1PJ (Map 6: D3, 114) 0141 331 4111, hortonsglasgow.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–9.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Wed noon–11pm; Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am; Sun 12.30–11pm.] Wh. £11 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

This impressive building has a new bar aimed at drinkers old enough to be parents of the former Frankenstein punters. A mix of after-work groups, couples and more serene night-outers enjoy a drink amid contemporary stylings and lots of room over two floors. The fairly standard drinks have added interest from speciality Italian beers, a good wine list (there’s an enoteca machine too) and an emphasis on martinis at a tempting £3.95. The decent food includes starters of baked camembert, sharing platters and various flatbread sandwiches. Mains include fish and chips and a home-made burger, plus sticky ribs, a couple of pastas and a variety of mussel pots. [Not recently visited.]

✱ Ivy

1102–1106 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8TD (Map 9: F6, 106) 0141 337 3006, ivybar.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–9pm; Fri/ Sat noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–midnight.]

Veg; Pre; HW £10.95; Kids; Wh. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

From the street there’s little to see, but the heavy doors of the Ivy open into a small bar manned by some of the most enthusiastic staff you’ll meet in Glasgow. It plays host to six draft beers including the citrusy Joker IPA and more unusually 100 varieties of rum and an impressive cocktail list. The menu’s a surprise too, alongside fish and chips and burgers the mezze selection is outstanding for originality, taste, and price, all coming in around £3. The fattoush salad of chickpeas, tomato and sumac is refreshing, lamb koftas in garlicky sauce are memorable while the crisp Thai eggs on jasmine rice have the salty tang of fish sauce, chilli and corriander. From the main menu a tagine of lamb and quince is overwhelmingly generous with thick hunks of meat, olives, preserved lemon and mouth-puckering quince. The Finnieston strip is always on the up with the Ivy leading the charge. + Interesting and well priced mezze - DJs at weekend can be overpowering

Jackson’s Bar

95–97 Cambridge Street, City Centre, G3 6RU (Map 6: C1, 110) 0141 332 5298 | Mon–Sun noon–6pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30– midnight.] HW £9.99; Kids; Wh.

Jackson’s is a welcome addition to Cowcaddens, in its struggle for decent drinking dens – unless spit and sawdust is your tipple. Nearby student accommodation contributes to a mixed clientele that also includes an older crowd from its days as the somewhat more traditional McIntosh’s. Now it’s a bright space – brown leather, dark wood and clean lines leading to a bar flaunting shiny beer taps with Furstenberg, Peroni, Heffenweizen and four ales all available. Grey Goose vodka and its ilk bring up the rear. Food’s not so high-end but impressive for the price: eight chicken wings in a barbecue sauce of pleasing stickiness, a filling plate of mac ‘n’

cheese, or chicken, haggis and suitably creamy peppercorn sauce. That dish costs a fiver – one would struggle to buy the ingredients for that. It’s also very near the subway station – an interesting development for the infamous ‘clockwork orange’ underground pub-crawl. + Fantastic value, great beer selection - A bit out the way

King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut

272a St Vincent Street, City Centre, G2 5RL (Map 6: B3, 40) 0141 221 5279, kingtuts.net | Mon–Sat noon–8pm; Sun 5–8pm. (Closed Sun if no gig). [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–1am; Sun 5pm–1am. (Closed Sun if no gig).] HW £13.50. £9.50 (lunch) / £9.50 (dinner)

There was a time when every young buck in town knew Tut’s as the venue where Oasis famously got signed. It’s still going strong in the music stakes, with an impressive list of of artists that have graced the stage listed on the staircase leading up to it. Musical coolness drifts into the bar too, which is laid back, and invariably has a cracking jukebox selection on. But it’s also really popular with office workers during lunchtime, doing a grand line in salads, ‘soup/ sandwich’ combos, and some of the best burgers to be found in this section: big juicy patties of meat so dense and coarse that they mock the cutlery as they arrive on your table. There’s a Mexican strain to the menu too, with home-made tortillas, and LA-style foil-wrapped burritos, baked to remain moist. Their own lager, brewed by Glasgow’s WEST Brewing Company, is another little detail that sets Tut’s apart. + Cracking burgers - Bit of a rush during the lunchtime peak

Kuta

104 Bath Street, City Centre, G2 2EN (Map 6: C2, 44) 0141 332 6678, kutabathstreet.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon– 10pm; Sun 12.30–10pm. [Bar open: Mon– Sat noon–1am; Sun 12.30pm–1am.] HW £14.50; Kids. £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Locally Sourced Seasonal Menu Scotland’s Best Gourmet Burger Acoustic music sets Beer garden Cocktails Wines and Real Beers

Lebowskis Glasgow 0141 564 7988 glasgow@lebowskis.co.uk Lebowskis Edinburgh 0131 466 1779 edinburgh@lebowskis.co.uk BrewDog (page 115): the occasionally controversial cult brewers have brought their excellent craft beers to town 118 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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Glasgow Bar Kuta is the latest addition to the group of Glasgow venues operated by owner Alan Tomkins, an impressive array already including notables like Urban Bar & Brasserie and Booly Mardy’s. Kuta’s sleek contemporary interior certainly achieves it’s intended pre-club feel but there’s more to the bar than that, with an appealing Asian Fusion menu being served until 10pm every night. The chicken satay skewers arrive with a sauce as flavoursome as you’d find in any dedicated Asian restaurant. Even the more traditional offerings like burger or steak come with the twist of added spice and sweet potato chips. The star of the show, however, is the extensive cocktail menu and, at 2-for-1 from Sunday to Thursday, it’s hard to knock their value and the general skill in preparation, as in the refreshing Ginger Bison – though a pedant (of which the cocktail world is full) might have wished for a slice of lime on the side. + Tangy and refreshing cocktails - Lack of old-school fruit decoration on cocktails

a function room, but also acting as an art gallery, with exhibitions changing monthly. The simple yet stylish menu draws in customers, with vibrant plates such as the Mediterranean antipasti platter created for sharing and enjoying alongside one of a vast array of draught beers or a glass from the impressive wine list. Mains include the well-presented Italian chicken and a variety of fresh fish dishes, including a sumptuous grilled sea bass, coated in pesto and served with baby potatoes. The American Sierra Nevada beer is certainly worth a shot, its deep amber colour shedding flavour that certainly justifies the Lansdowne’s attempts to promote slightly less fashionable lagers. + Comfy booths perfect for the big game - Uninspiring dessert menu

The Lansdowne Bar & Kitchen

What would you expect from a joint named after the Coen brothers’ Dude? A laid-back spot with an appealing bar that serves a good white Russian? Check. What you might not be prepared for is the quality of the excellent pub food, backed up by a careful and conscientious sourcing policy. Sure, it may not come quick, but rushing wouldn’t sit right here, and anyway it’s well worth the wait. Shetland smoked salmon blinis are fresh, light and generous. The extensive burger menu has a huge number of variables to bling up your bun with options on cheese, mayo and meat, but even erring on the side of caution it still arrives

7a Lansdowne Crescent, West End, G20 6NQ (Map 9: G2, 72) 0141 334 4653, lansdownebar.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–3pm, 5–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–10pm; Sun noon–8pm. [Bar open: Tue–Thu noon–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–midnight; Sun 12.30–10pm.] LC; Veg; HW £11.95; Kids. £12 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

With walls covered in plasma screens and a plethora of comfy booths, it is easy to see why the Lansdowne is considered by many to be among the best sports bars in town. To the rear of the spacious bar is a conservatory area, primarily

Lebowskis

1008 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8LX (Map 9: F6, 96) 0141 564 7988, lebowskis. co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–midnight.] HW £12.50; Kids; Wh. £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

arguably taller than any burger in town. There’s lots of standing room, but only a few booths and a couple of tables, which might make it a trickier proposition for eating on busier evenings. + The towering burger - Unopened wine boxes piled up

+ Traditional pies, just like your granny used to make - Can be packed when there is sport on

The Left Bank

Lock 27

33–35 Gibson St, West End, G12 8NU See Bistros & Brasseries

The Libertine

45–47 Bell Street, Merchant City, G1 1NX (Map 7: C2, 44) 0141 552 3539 | Mon–Sun noon–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am– midnight.] Pre; HW £11.95; Kids; Wh. £6.95 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

A competition saw this bar named after the decadent 17th-century poet, the 2nd Earl of Rochester, but here’s nothing debauched about this Libertine, which neatly balances daytime bistro and night-time bar. Tall windows line both aspects, allowing diners in huge booths and intimate tables to gaze out from the modern Victorian interior. Various small plates, including nachos and Vietnamese rice balls, are suited to nibbling and sharing. Mains include beer-battered haddock with fluffy handcut chips, but it is the pie range that stands out – the creamy chicken and bacon filling is buried beneath a crispy, buttery crust. With mash and seasonal veg accompaniments, it’s all a pleasant reminder of how good traditional homecooked meals can be – with a tangy, smooth Eton mess a good sharer to finish. The Libertine may be a new player on an old block, but by melding the modern and traditional it has quickly found its stride.

The Living Room

150 St Vincent St, City Centre, G2 5NE See Bistros & Brasseries

1100 Crow Road, West End, G13 1JT (Map 9: A1, off) 0141 958 0853, lock27. com | Mon–Sat noon–9pm; Sun 12.30– 9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Wed noon–11pm; Thu–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 12.30– midnight.] Pre; HW £13.50; Kids. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Lock 27’s prime spot on the edge of the Forth and Clyde Canal has served it well for over two decades, especially as the canal has improved vastly in that time. It serves typical pub food and customary entertainment to a varied and genial mix of locals, students and those out for a stroll. The opportunity for canal-side drinking and dining means it can be busy on sunny weekends or when sport is on the big screens dotted around the horseshoe bar. The décor is traditional and smart, and a raised area of nooks and booths promotes relaxed dining. The huge menu of recognisable pub fare is sure to have something for all from the array of appetisers, sandwiches, salads, baked potatoes, pizzas, pastas and crowdpleasing mains such as haggis, fish and chips, burgers and pies. Mexican and Asian dishes are also available, from nachos, tempura and pakora starters to fajitas, chilli con carne and various curries. A great spot for appreciating the canal. + Lovely canal-side location - Anniesland a bit of a trek for most

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✱ MacSorley’s 0141 958 0853 www.lock27.com Glasgow. 1100 Crow Rd North,

Bar l Restaurant l Hotel 0141 572 0400 www.rabhas.com 81 Hutcheson Street, Glasgow G1 1SH.

42 Jamaica Street, City Centre, G1 4QG (Map 6: C5, 100) 0141 248 8581, macsorleys.com | Mon–Thu noon–3pm, 5–9pm; Fri/Sat noon–9pm; Sun 12.30– 7pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30–midnight.] LC; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

At this time last year the upstairs eating section of MacSorley’s was going for a full-blown, fine-dining approach. The food was great, but the juxtaposition of such cuisine in an old-school pub, albeit a music-focused one with a young clientele, was always risky. This year, the owners have seen sense and pared back the suaveness, kept the Scottish strain and injected some full-bloodedness in there. Cullen skink hits the spot: big, milky-creaminess with carefully flaked haddock and chunky potato. Savoury tarts are too often precious little arrangements of goat’s cheese and antipasti; here it’s Lanarkshire cheddar and meaty sundried tomatoes – enough to tempt a carnivore to swap jerseys. But ‘Peterhead fish and chips’ steal the show – crisp batter, earthy chips and served wrapped up in newspaper with some pickles thrown in for fun. Well played all round. + Lovely mezzanine for eating - Live (and loud) bands can impede a bit

Maggie May’s

60 Trongate, Merchant City, G1 5EP See Scottish

Molly Malones

, GLASGOW G4 9AW. 171 GREAT WESTERN ROAD XY171.CO.UK 0141 331 1901 WWW.THERO

224 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 2UG (Map 6: D2, 32) 0141 332 2757, malonesglasgow.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon– 8pm; Sun 12.30–8pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30pm–midnight.] HW £8.99; Kids; Wh. £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Unmistakably Irish even from the outside, you feel welcome here before you even order a drink. There’s no going overboard on clichéd wall decorations either, and the long bar makes for a perfect spot to converse over a beer. Molly’s claims to have the best Guinness in Glasgow, and while confirmation of that would require considerable but not unwelcome research, it’s not half bad – in fact there’s even Harp lager on draught for further Irish

authenticity. There’s ample seating too and a host of pub favourites are served until well into the evening, many with an Irish twist. Steak and Guinness sausages are served on a mountain of mash and macaroni cheese is crispy on top and creamy in the middle. With live music at the weekend and friendly smiles from the staff, this is a pub that raises the mood with more than a little charm. + Good weekday meal deals - A long hike to the toilet

Mono

12 Kings Court, King Street, G1 5RB See Vegetarian

Moskito

200 Bath Street, City Centre, G2 4HG (Map 6: B2, 20) 0141 331 1777, moskitoglasgow. com | Mon–Sun noon–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu noon–2am; Fri/Sat noon–3am; Sun 12.30pm–2am.] Veg; HW £13.50; Sun–Wed £9.95; Kids; Wh. £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

The ambient beats and distinctive greenturquoise hue of Moskito have been with us for more than a decade now, making it the elder statesman of Bath Street. The location’s great for workers from the nearby offices, as well as those making an evening of it around Glasgow’s most bar/ club-heavy area. But Moskito’s longevity and appeal come also from a cavernous, interesting design catering to all sizes of party, a pool room, and a popular food selection. Burgers are their biggest seller, well-seasoned and filling. But beyond that, the food has some great touches: chilli is made from diced not minced chuck steak, and has a nice kick of cayenne above the other spices. A gigantic club sandwich comes packed with taste – including a boiled egg atop two slabs of cheese-topped chicken. The little tubs of Häagen-Dazs behind the bar – an ever-present since day one – are still as cute as ever. + Lots of privacy for a bar - . . . but will get busy in the evenings

Mulberry Street Bar

778 Pollokshaws Road, Southside, G41 2AE (Map 8: C2, 13) 0141 424 0858, mulberrystbarbistro.com | Mon noon– 9pm; Tue–Thu noon–9.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–10pm; Sun 12.30–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11am–11pm; Fri/Sat 11am– midnight; Sun noon–11pm.] HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

A bright spot on an otherwise drab stretch, Mulberry Street’s warming red hue draws you in, where you’re met by the steady chatter of its regulars, and a garland of fairy lights across the bar. It’s a family affair, co-owned by Stuart Corvi and his mother Bernadetta, and a most pleasant place for a drink or dinner. Almost everything is home-made, including a mixed tempura that has that impressive crisp-then-chewiness that says as much. Similarly, mussels come in a marinière sauce with a proper dose of white wine acidity that tastes like it’s been cooked minutes before. Mains span the globe too: a lamb tagine resists the urge to be too spicy and is instead juicy and sweet from loads of apricot. Seabass is pan-fried just enough for the skin to be crispy, and served unfussily, with a spring onion mash. Each dish has a simple, classy execution that is commendable. + Equally adept as a bar or a bistro - Shabby, busy street outside

✱ Nice ’n’ Sleazy

421 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3LG (Map 6: A2, 2) 0141 333 0900, nicensleazy.com | Mon–Sat noon–9pm; Sun 1–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon– 3am.] Veg; HW £11; Kids; T/A. £10.50 (lunch) / £10.50 (dinner)

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BARS & PUBS

In association with

Glasgow Sleazy’s is a legend in this town, a mustvisit for indie kids and elder statesmen of the music/arts scene, and its shabby interior can be forgiven, such is the atmosphere. Be it organic cider, white Russians or Buckfast, your tastes are catered for. In 2011, Where the Monkey Sleeps (a nearby sandwich café of high regard) took over the kitchen, and it’s exciting stuff – the ‘stew of the day’ might feature pheasant, partridge and venison; the ‘sandwich special’ could be be pulled brisket, and they put sweet chilli jam on their nachos to vibrant effect. But the showstopper is the burgers – made to order, all seasoned differently (cameos from vodka and bourbon), seared and then finished in the oven. They’re juicy and crumbly, with an impressive depth of meaty flavour courtesy of some secret ingredients. It feels like thought and care goes into the food. Even the chips, triplecooked then dusted with citrus rind, chilli, sage and rosemary, stand out from the crowd. + Gourmet burgers in sexy surroundings - Burgers are less sexy, more messy, when you eat one

The Pot Still

154 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 2TH (Map 6: D3, 108) 0141 333 0980 | Mon–Sun 11am–11pm. Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am– midnight; Sun 12.30pm–midnight. HW £11.95.

The Pot Still has arguably the easiest sell in this entire guide: more than 370 types of whisky. That’s what it’s all about, and nowhere else in town comes close. It’s a proper old-fashioned affair, with leatherbacked bench seating in racing green and burgundy running round the sides (like the houses of Commons and Lords), ancient framed pictures on the walls and four tiers of Scotland’s finest export lined up along the bar – along with specimens from Japanese, American, Canadian, even English distilleries. They need a ladder to get to some of them. The ‘malt of the month’ tends to come in at £2.50–£3 a dram, while the most expensive ones are in excess of £20. There are regular tasting nights, and, as you would expect, owner Frank Murphy and his staff (including both father and sister) are experts when it comes to the ‘water of life’. + Guess? - Very limited food selection

The Rio Café

27 Hyndland Street, West End, G11 5QF See Cafés

The Roxy 171

171 Great Western Road, West End, G4 9AW (Map 9: H3, 77) 0141 331 1901, theroxy171.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–midnight.] Veg; HW £14.25; T/A. £5 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

A bar that truly offers a multitude of experiences, the Roxy 171 ensures that clients of all demographics are catered for. With an intimate live music venue downstairs now spearheading the local acoustic scene, the bar is often frequented by the followers of local artists, while a chill-out DJ set each Sunday changes the vibe entirely, dropping a unique mixture of dubstep and reggae beats. The food menu is wide-ranging and merits a visit in itself, the delightfully light ‘tortizzas’ – pizzas created on a tortilla base – are particularly pleasing, especially when washed down with a glass of house white, and sampling the award-winning chilli is also a necessity. It is best to pay a visit on Thursdays and Fridays when the venue hosts their well-known ‘Free Candy’ sessions, showcasing the best local musical talent – not to be missed. + Relaxed atmosphere - Can be a bit cramped before and after gigs

The 78

10–14 Kelvinhaugh St, West End, G3 8NU See Vegetarian

Saramago Café Bar

CCA, 350 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3JD See Vegetarian

Sloans

62 Argyll Arcade, City Centre, City Centre, G2 8BG (Map 6: D5, 98) 0141 221 8866, sloansglasgow.com | Mon–Sun

noon–10pm; Sun 12.30pm–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 12.30pm–midnight.] HW £Mon-Thu £11.20; Fri-Sun £14.60. £12.50 (lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

Sloan’s is enjoying something of a renaissance at the moment, cleverly positioning itself between homely traditional pub and something a wee bit funkier for when the shoppers go home and the evening arrives. They do cracking pints of Heineken and Sagres, and there’s a cosmopolitan outdoor section of tables and benches that far exceeds being ‘the smoking area’. The menu has some interesting and well-prepared offerings like a Spanish tortilla, which is remarkably light for its ominous thickness and works really well with the intensity of the accompanying chorizo. Or lamb koftas, served in a tomato broth with the inimitable, dry heat of harissa. Welsh rarebit is having a bit of a comeback these days too, and here there’s a satisfactory depth to the topping that elevates it above mere toasted cheese. It’s nice to have something a bit more unusual in the land of pies and burgers. + Location, location, location - Not the fastest of kitchens

✱ Slouch

203–205 Bath Street, City Centre, G2 4HZ (Map 6: B2, 19) 0141 221 5518, slouch-bar. co.uk | Mon–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am– 9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Tue 11am–2am; Wed–Sun 11am–3am.] HW £8.95/£13.95. £6.95 (set lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

With classic rock icons on wall and stereo, Slouch is unashamed in where its musical heart lies: a sort of Hard Rock Café without the cheesiness. The dining section, separate from the bar, soaks up the atmosphere but allows some space to enjoy your meal. Burgers and pizzas are well turned out and tasty, but elsewhere the menu really shines. The Thai green curry is one of the best around, a slow

The Pour House

1038–1042 Argyle St, West End, G3 8LX (Map 9: F6, 98) 0141 221 4449 | Mon–Sun noon–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am– midnight; Sun 11am–11pm.] HW £12.95. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Stereo

20–28 Renfield Lane, City Centre, G2 5AR See Vegetarian

Stravaigin Café Bar

28 Gibson Street, West End, G12 8NX See Bistros & Brasseries

The 13th Note Café/Bar

50–60 King St, Merchant City, G1 5QT See Vegetarian

Three Judges

141 Dumbarton Road, West End, G11 6PR (Map 9: B3, 8) 0141 337 3055, threejudges.co.uk | Bar open: Mon–Wed 11am–11pm; Thu–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30–11pm. HW £6.95; Kids; Wh.

From the numerous certificates that decorate the walls of this traditional bar it’s clear that the Three Judges has the deepest respect for real ales. On the day of review they were also received their latest award from CAMRA, the 2012 Scottish cider pub of the year. With nine revolving British real ales on tap, choice might range from Greenjack Lurcher Stout, Banktop Port O’call or Harviestoun’s Haggis Hunter. If you really like what you taste, cartons are available to take a couple of pints home. Throughout the year they hold themed events, most recently a Porter, Stout & Mild festival. There’s also a decent selection of bottled beers, local and worldwide, including the range from the oldest brewery in the world, Weihenstephaner. Sundays from 3 till 6pm see alternating entertainment of Dixieland and big band jazz which brings in an eclectic crowd of characters, amateur singers and dancers. An exceptional Glasgow bar. + Real ale haven - Toilets a tight squeeze

The Tiki Bar

214 Bath Street, City Centre, G2 4HW (Map 6: D2, 17) 0141 332 1341, tikibarglasgow.com | Bar open: Mon–Thu 5pm–midnight; Fri–Sun 3am–midnight. HW £12.95.

A newcomer to the vibrant Finnieston drag, and reviewed here within days of opening, it’s fair to say the Pour House is still finding its feet. The exterior signage of a large squirrel guzzling from a tap is indicative of the quirky interior, featuring rather incongruous elements such as bird boxes, chairs with hand-painted details and large crocodile skin booths. One wall is crammed with limited edition prints, bizarre, cute, crazy or a mixture of the three, while above the bar is an antique bed pan. The initial menu doesn’t reflect the quirky theme, offering fairly standard pub grub – fish and chips were tasty, although not a feast for the eyes, while the steak pie was rather average. That said, it’s very early days, and the real test will be how things stand in the coming months – but with a few tweaks, there should be room for this place amid stiff local competition. + The wall of fine art prints - Menu not on a par with décor

Rab Ha’s

83 Hutcheson St, Merchant City, G1 1SH See Scottish

burner with high-quality chicken and a mix of vegetables including red onion and carrot. But better still is the day’s ‘market menu’, representing variety, value and good Scottish produce: perhaps little (MacSween’s) haggis ‘bonbons’, crispy then soft, elegantly perched on a sweet turnip purée, or an Ayrshire supreme of chicken, with rich, sticky gravy alongside luxurious dauphinoise potatoes. Some uncommon bottled beers and a late licence seal the deal. It’s only rock ’n’ roll, but you’ll like it. + The market menu - Live rock bands can be hit or miss

Vespbar (page 122): dishing up pizzas by the metre and prosecco on tap

Polynesian stylings (straw basket chairs, palm trees, ‘Easter Island’ heads) alongside 1950s Americana (MAD comics and a popcorn machine) – to the unordained, this place benefits from an explanation. The décor constitutes, you see, a ‘Tiki Bar’, the like of which was once popular across the US. It’s not where one would go for a quick pint, but for fun and (rum-based) cocktails, it’s great. Classics like the pina colada and the mai tai sit alongside less familiar creations like the zombie (5 rums, and you’re only allowed to order it twice) and their own coconut grenade. The freshness and zing stand them out, as manager Ian Sanderson insists on using only fresh fruit and home-made syrups to complement the 80 different rums. The music tends to be stuff from the 1950s as well – rockabillyflavoured Saturday evenings are particularly popular, but it’s an enjoyable place to drink pretty much all the time. + Rum selection and rummy cocktails - Not so good if you don’t like rum The List Eating & Drinking Guide 121

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Glasgow ✱ The Two Figs

5 and 9 Byres Road, West End, G11 5RD (Map 9: B3, 12) 0141 334 7277, thetwofigs. co.uk | Sun–Thu 10am–11pm; Fri–Sat 10am–midnight. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 10am–midnight.] Veg; HW £12.95; Kids; Wh. £5 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

A bar which is renowned for its sophisticated menu and relaxed atmosphere, the Two Figs doesn’t disappoint. A potent combination of highquality fare and an extensive cocktail list ensures that this establishment stands out at the less fashionable end of Byres Road. The house super-food salad, jampacked with beans, sprouts and other nutritious delights, makes a great starter for the health-conscious. On the other hand, sticky ribs provide tantalising competition, deliciously cooked in a tangy sauce, and served in a portion that almost constitutes a main course. Pork belly, served on a bed of noodles is arguably the pick of the mains, while similarly presented sea bass heads up the fish list. Be sure to conclude with either the sumptuous sticky figgy pudding or figgylicious cocktail – or if you want to treat yourself, order both. + Food of the highest order - Cocktails aren’t cheap – but worth it

The Universal

57–59 Sauchiehall Lane, City Centre, G2 4AB (Map 6: C2, 45) 0141 332 8899, theuniversalglasgow.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–9pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu noon– midnight; Fri/Sat noon–3am.] HW £12.95; Kids; Wh. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Somewhat hidden in the depths of Sauchiehall Lane, not many people will stumble over this bar, but those who seek it out will find an unpretentious café-style venue offering a menu of pub meals such as macaroni cheese, burgers and chicken

TIPList FOR DRINKS • Bar at Blythswood Square Behold the beauty of Mal Spence’s ‘bar book’ 164 • The Ben Nevis Bothyesque bar for whisky and folk music 113 • The Brass Monkey Serious spirits and offbeat beers 115 • BrewDog Cult craft brewers expanding our tastebuds 115 • Curlers Rest A resurrected tavern with exceptional ales 116 • Three Judges Fantastic ales and enthusiastic, knowledgeable staff 121 • The Tiki Bar Fun 1950s frolics with rum-based concoctions 121 • WEST Brewery German-style excellence from Glasgow’s own brewery 122

enchiladas – which comes in one long wrap, with generous toppings. Among the sandwiches on offer is a steak ciabatta, served with impressive hand-cut chips. For the hungrier, there is a grill section offering steaks and fajitas – to maintain the loose Mexican menu theme. A two-for-one deal on selected mains runs from Sunday to Wednesday making for decent value, while for those opting for a few drinks there’s a good selection of world beers to choose from. At night it’s transformed into a more hip hangout with DJs and live music, so as its name suggests, there is something on offer for everyone. + Cosy warm interior - Unavoidable view of bins in the lane

Variety Bar

401 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3LG (Map 6: A2, 3) 0141 332 4449 | Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 12.30pm–midnight. HW £11; Kids.

This appropriately named corner bar on Sauchiehall Street is a cheerful juxtaposition of old man’s pub and wild child’s watering den, serving all (legal) ages and persuasions, with a genuinely eclectic collection of regulars. No food, alas, but a big choice of bottled beers, ciders and spirits, and beers on tap including Heineken and Blue Moon. It’s laid-back demeanor and open-mindedness are the principal reasons for its popularity but Variety’s owners are constantly reviewing stock to stay ahead of things, too, most recently with an increased rum selection for their tattoo artist clientele, Crystal Head vodka because of the cool bottle, and the dangerously drinkable, 7.2 per cent, Thistly Cross cider because one of the locals asked and they’re obliging that way. Its narrow dimensions tend to fill to a squeeze in the evenings, giving it a real vibrancy. Music? Anything goes. + Eclectic crowd - No food

Vespbar

14 Drury Street, City Centre, G2 5AA (Map 6: D4, 102) 07909 822841, vespbar. com | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 12.30pm– midnight.] HW £12.95. £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

Vespbar opened its doors in October of last year, and has created a happy little buzz for itself since. Perhaps aware that two-for-one pizzas are becoming almost as ubiquitous as burgers in the City Centre these days, owner Jim McLaughlin has instead adopted the unique approach of offering them by the metre, or half metre. It makes for a nice bit of theatre, sitting up on the mezzanine, gazing onto the bar and seeing the steady production line of gigantic oval, thin and crispy slabs whisked out the kitchen and onto the next hungry group of customers. Toppings can be mixed – two types on the half metre, four on the whole – so groups are well catered for. All the classics are available – ham and generous wedges of juicy pineapple, and a lovely and smoky Italian meatball variety stand out. Vespbar’s other niche is its prosecco on tap – a refreshing accompaniment and a pleasant touch of European café-culture – although there are nine wines by the glass and a good selection of beers (Sagres on tap, Blue Moon in bottles) if the bubbles go to your head. + It’s all about the pizzas - Tables are very close together

Vroni’s Wine & Champagne Bar

47 West Nile Street, City Centre, G1 2PT (Map 6: D3, 104) 0141 221 4677, vronis. co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–9pm; Fri 12–3pm; Sat 12–5pm; Sun 2–8pm. [Bar open: 11am–midnight Mon–Sat.]

Black Sparrow (page 114): a good-looking bar with great-value food offers Veg; HW £15.95. £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

An institution for 30 to 40-somethings since 1995, dark wood and deep green leather seating dominate the bar’s interior, making for a warming setting in which to explore an excellent wine range. With 40 to choose from, including nine champagnes, Vroni’s is an attractive option for professionals, while for weekend shoppers, it is a perfect escape. Food is aimed at those eating light and consists of 15 sharing plates and a few platters. There’s a Mediterranean feel, though some Scottish favourites feature – such as smoked salmon, and pâté. The king prawns are uninspiring but piri piri chicken wings are perfectly gooey, sweet up front then spicy. A Moroccan couscous salad is elegantly presented and ideal to accompany three or four small plates. The bar is most famous for its wine, however, and with over a dozen on offer by the glass, this remains its biggest asset. + The expansive wine list - No desserts

The Waverley Tea Room

18 Moss Side Road, Southside, G41 3TN (Map 8: A4, 16) 0845 659 5903, socialanimal.co.uk | Sun–Sat noon– 10pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu 10am–1am; Fri/Sat 10am–2am.] LC; Veg; HW £12.95; Kids; Wh. £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

This is perhaps the best of the G1 Group’s Southside outposts, as popular with early-rising families for its coffee and kids’ play area as it is with evening revellers for its late licence, strong choice of beers and ten wines by the glass. It’s also worthwhile for dining, with a menu created and overseen by celebrity chef Michael Kilkie. One cleverly thought-out starter is the ‘open’ lasagne of haggis and neeps, subtly layered so only a hint of the spiciness, then sweetness, comes through against the pasta and béchamel. ‘Veggie fish and chips’ is another eyebrow-raiser, this time a main of beer-battered halloumi that stands right up to the crunchy

coating. Elsewhere, classics are well rendered: light, fresh-tasting caesar salad; dense little meatballs of pork, mince and a bit of hot chilli. Characterful surroundings (upstairs: ‘darkwood study’, downstairs: ‘retro greenhouse lounge’) complement the comfort food. + Wide appeal - Can be short-staffed

WEST Brewery

Building 4 Templeton Building, Glasgow Green, G40 1AW (Map 7: E4, off) 0141 550 0135, westbeer.com | Mon–Sun 11am–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11am–11pm; Fri/Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30–11pm.] HW £14.50; Kids; Wh. £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

With many bars in Glasgow and beyond stocking their excellent beers – brewed in accordance with German Purity Laws, (meaning they include water, malt, hops and yeast and nothing else touches them other than a skilled brewer’s hand) – WEST’s impact on the Scottish beer scene has been as impressive as their old carpet factory base, inspired by the doge’s palace in Venice. It’s a fine setting for a beer with outdoor tables looking out across the green towards the Doulton Fountain and People’s Palace, and a distinctly European beer hall feel inside with a huge bar and a chance to view the brewing operation. Weekends here are mobbed thanks to an exceptionally family-friendly set-up, with all manner of parklife attending, from dogs and toddlers to brunchers and beer fans taking the brewery tour. The food blends Bavarian with Scottish and British staples. A starter of garlic sausage, gherkins and onion will appeal to those with Teutonic tastes, while the spicy goulash soup is mains-size and chunky with meat. Fish and chips features a good batter made with WEST’s popular St Mungo beer, while the richness of the chicken pie is nicely offset by a pint of the malty Dunkel. + A marvellous setting for great beers - Can feel like a crèche at weekends

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BISTROS & BRASSERIES

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Glasgow

BISTROS & BRASSERIES Smaller and probably less formal than most restaurants, but with a higher standard of food and more inventive dishes than most cafés, a working definition of a bistro can be slippery. But you’ll probably know it when you see it, especially if it’s a venue which combines good service with attention to fresh and seasonal produce, offering quality at a decent price. There are a great variety of them in this section, from neighbourhood joints to busy City Centre places, each with their own distinct atmosphere, proving to be the antithesis of uniform chain restaurants. Reviewers: Allan Brown, Eileen Heuston, Donald MacInnes, Andrea Mullaney, Andrea Pearson

Baby Grand

3–7 Elmbank Gardens, City Centre, G2 4NQ (Map 6: A2, 4) 0141 248 4942, babygrandglasgow.com | Mon–Thu 8am– midnight; Fri 8am–1am; Sat 10am–1am; Sun 10am–midnight. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 10am–midnight; Fri–Sat 10am–1am; Sun noon–midnight.] Pre/Post; HW £14; Kids. £6.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

With its proximity to Charing Cross Station, the Premier Inn and the motorway, the long-established Baby Grand is handily placed to cater for commuters, visitors and business folk, particularly during the day. At night the area is quieter but a genuinely enthusiastic welcome makes up for it. A long bar stretches back to the small restaurant area where the muted wood and candlelit tables make you want to speak in whispers, or just enjoy the light jazz on those nights when the pianist is in residence. There’s plenty of choice on its menu and a number of fixedprice meal options. A starter of smoked haddock and crab fishcakes comes with a pleasant salad but its thick, salty flavour may be better served by a sweet chili dressing rather than the cold tartare sauce. Chargrilled steak is satisfyingly meaty, but the chips are somewhat bland. A coq au vin gets everything right, though, with tender, slow-cooked chicken falling off the bone into a warm and comforting red wine and mushroom sauce, with lardons and mashed potatoes. And desserts are old-fashioned and fun: a luridly crimson spiced pear with a light buttermilk panacotta, or good quality ice-cream with a drizzle of seaside special raspberry sauce. + Helpful staff - Tucked away in a corner

Barça Tapas and Cava Bar

Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre, G1 3JN See Spanish

Berits & Brown

6 Wilson Street, Merchant City, G1 1SS See Cafés

Le Bistro Beaumartin

161 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 2UQ See French

Black Sheep Bistro

10 Clarendon Street, West End, G20 7QD (Map 9: I3, off) 0141 333 1435, blacksheepbistro.co.uk | Wed–Sat noon–

3pm, 5–9pm; Sun 12.30–8pm; closed Mon–Tue. HW £12.50; Kids; Wh. £9 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Tucked into a side street near St George’s Cross, this tiny family-run bistro has a stylishly mysterious exterior but inside bursts out in a riot of cheerful chintz, plaques with homely sayings and ornamental hearts: it’s like Mumsnet and Etsy rolled into one. By day it’s a coffee and cake haven, but by night it’s rather more exclusive, serving a sophisticated take on home-made meals in a bustling atmosphere. They’re good at staples with a twist, like a stunningly rich roast tomato and red pepper soup which avoids heaviness, while also serving hearty versions of mince and tatties, macaroni and beef olives. A butternut squash and feta filo pie is tangy and filling, especially with a generous heaping of vegetables and salad, but a promising-sounding haddock wrapped in Parma ham and pesto, topped with parmesan and pinenuts, is rather dry and overdone, while the accompanying green beans are sadly bland. Indulgent desserts, including a gooey chocolate orange fudge cake, shockingly sweet home-made puff-candy ice-cream and moist clootie dumpling, more than make up for it. + Genuinely friendly family service - Can be tough to get a table

Bo’Vine Meats and Wines

385 Byres Road, West End, G12 8AU See Scottish

La Bonne Auberge

161 West Nile St, City Centre, G1 2RL See French

The Bothy

11 Ruthven Lane, West End, G12 9BG See Scottish

Brasserie 19

19 New Kirk Road, Bearsden, West End, G61 3SJ (Map 9: A1, off) 0141 942 0865, thepartnersrestaurants.co.uk/ brasserie19 | Tue–Sun 10am–10pm. Closed Mon. Pre; HW £16; Kids; Wh. £12 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

The Partners restaurants are renowned in Glasgow for good food, accessible pricing and stylish-yet-relaxed venues. Brasserie 19 is like a Bearsden version of what was Tattie Macs (now Crabby Macs). However, to accommodate locals it serves up breakfasts and light lunches on top of the à la carte menu of smart Scottish fare with a French twist. A warm salad starter of black pudding and bacon comes with a plump poached egg perched on top, ready to burst all over the crumbly rich meat below. King prawn tempura is light, crispy and delicious and comes with a ‘hot little things’ salad – being spring onion, carrot and chillies in a sweet Thai-style dressing. For main courses, the beautifully pink, gamey meat of the Gressingham duck with a red wine jus is well balanced by creamy potatoes dauphinoise. Subtly snazzy touches such as the red paint-splattered walls or the mains piled high with micro salads give the essence of a place that manages to pull off a little bit of style without alienating anyone – by far the best kind of style. + Excellent food, great service - Dining area may get warm when busy

HW £14.95; Kids. £16 (lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Upon entering, this Glasgow institution exudes informality, yet there’s an air that everything about the food and drink here is taken very seriously. The brasserie, a mezzanine that hangs above the main restaurant, has a lovely airy feel, matched by the friendly, yet professional service. The provenance of the food is a big deal here and most of the dishes’ origins are clearly set out. To start, the West Coast langoustine tails pil pil may not sizzle, but are tasty, though they lacked a kick from either the chilies or garlic. Loch Eil mussels may not be on the menu as a starter, but the slick staff are accommodating enough to downsize a main-course portion. These were super fresh, cooked interestingly with cider rather than the usual white wine. A special of Perthshire wood pigeon was beautifully rare, allowing the full flavour of the bird to be properly appreciated. The Troon-landed half lobster was skilfully prepared, but small and, at £25, not cheap. The short dessert selection features a moist plum cake packed with fruity flavours. Throughout, the famed wine list doesn’t disappoint. + Quality Scottish ingredients - Pricey petite portions

Brel

39–43 Ashton Lane, West End, G12 8SG See Bars & Pubs

Browns Bar & Brasserie

1 George Square, G2 1DY (Map 7: B1, 47) 0141 221 7828, brownsglasgow.co.uk | Mon–Thu 8am–10pm; Fri 8am–11pm; Sat 9am–11pm; Sun 10am–10pm. Pre. £15 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Browns is a safe pair of hands in George

Brutti Ma Buoni

Brunswick Hotel, 106 Brunswick Street, Merchant City, G1 1TF (Map 7: C2, 11) 0141 552 0001, brunswickhotel.co.uk | Mon–Sun 11am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30pm– midnight.] HW £17.25; Kids; Wh. £12 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

The Brunswick Hotel’s café-bar has long been a popular spot for Merchant City hipsters, with its stylish Italian design and cool, pre-club vibe. The menu is large and snacky and takes a while to read, with various tapas plates, bruschetta, burgers and mis-shapen pizza-style breads with toppings as well as more traditional mains, salads and sandwiches, but the food is presented well enough to reassure that there’s an attention to quality in their open-plan kitchen, as well as quantity. The Brutti bread Nero is basically a thin pizza with

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5 York Place, Edinburgh

The Brasserie at Òran Mór

0131 558 7272

731–735 Great Western Road, G12 8QX See Scottish

The Brasserie at the Chip

12 Ashton Lane, West End, G12 8SJ (Map 9: D2, 32) 0141 334 5007, ubiquitouschip.co.uk | Mon–Sun 11am– 11pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am–1am.]

Square, a busy part of town where food choices can seem overwhelming. It has a French influence in its styling and décor but a very British feel in the food – with a name like Browns it could hardly have anything but. The menu is divided into ‘classics and grills’ – for the patriotic burgers, pies and the like – then a bizarre ‘fish, pasta, salad and vegetarian’ section which could almost be labelled ‘foreign stuff’. It is just a shame there is nothing very Scottish on offer – the featured steak is from the West Country in England. There are some tempting dishes on offer such as courgette, pea and feta filo parcel and prices are very good. Overall a good place to meet up as no one will have far to go to catch a bus or train home. + Solid offerings in a great location - Not much produce from Scotland

333 Woodlands Rd, Glasgow

www.thestand.co.uk

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Glasgow

TABLE Talk : DANIEL LEE ON HIS UNCLE DINU LI As a kid, I used to stay at Dinu’s in the summer months. One time he asked me to name the top five places I like to eat. I could see fury in his eyes when I mentioned KFC, McDonald’s, Subway, Pizza Hut and hot dog stands. Opium was inspired by the many films Dinu had seen but I’d like to think it was also influenced by my own ignorance of great Far Eastern cooking. During meetings with the interior designers, it was exciting seeing Dinu referencing films for design concepts. He spoke about the lighting in Once Upon a Time in America by Sergio Leone, especially the opening sequence where Robert De Niro is hiding out inside a secret opium den. Dinu also spoke about In the Mood for Love by Wong KarWai, and the need to bring a sense of intimacy and mood to Opium. To emphasise his point, Dinu played some 50s jazz by Miles Davis. Listening to the music, we couldn’t help but realise at that precise moment, we also needed to have a cocktail menu. One of the most important aspects to Opium’s success lies in the fact that we not only asked my other uncle, and Dinu’s brother, Kwan Yu, to write the menu, but to also talk him out of early retirement to become our head chef. Being the artist that he is, I’ve seen Dinu many times finding different solutions to produce his work. I think he’s a born hustler, so I was very confident he’d make Kwan Yu ‘an offer he can’t refuse’. I’m so glad we’ve managed to get Opium up and running, because now I can add dim sum and oriental fusion cooking to my knowledge of what good food is. ■ Daniel Lee is Head Barista at Opium ■ Dinu Li is Head of Operations at Opium. opiumrestaurant.co.uk (see page 142)

a strongly flavoured tapenade base, which slightly overpowers a topping of feta and sundried tomato, but the honey and lime marinade on a simple chicken burger gives it the right amount of kick to add interest to bun, chips and salad (unlike many places, the salads have plenty of variety and colour). A small plate of halloumi and chilli is likewise well balanced between the salty cheese and the spice, while proper Italian gelato has a more intense, creamy flavour than regular ice-cream to suitably round things off. + Fun, friendly service - Small tables

The Bungo Bar & Kitchen

17–21 Nithsdale Road, Southside, G41 2AL (Map 8: C2, 8) 0141 423 0023, thebungo.co.uk | Mon–Sun 10am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 10am–midnight.] Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £11 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Accessed through the welcoming bar dishing up a range of drinks and cocktails, this latest venture from the successful team behind the Left Bank and the Two Figs is characterised by low lighting, exposed brick, sandstone, wood and leather. There are two dining rooms – an overflow area to the front and the main space at the back. The service is good – although a bit stressed, perhaps because this place has captured the Southside’s imagination since opening in late 2011, and is often busy even on weeknights. The eclectic menu ranges from curries to burgers and fish and chips to chicken satay, passing through breakfast and small plate options. The sticky pork ribs are a great starter, with generous amounts of meat falling from the bones. A satisfying main of beef daube comes with extremely tender, succulent meat, if rather lacking in the olives, while the thali is a successful option, too. Desserts are a small selection but the impressively varied cheeseboard is a great way to finish, bigger than usual with top-quality cheeses. + Some great choices at reasonable prices - Desserts rather neglected

✱ Café Gandolfi

64 Albion Street, Merchant City, G1 1NY (Map 7: C2, 25) 0141 552 6813, cafegandolfi.com | Mon–Sun 8am– 11.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am– midnight.] HW £18.50; Kids. £19 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

If one restaurant can take credit for Stornoway black pudding becoming ubiquitous on the menus of contemporary Scotland this is the one. Back when the dish was deemed little more than offal Gandolfi was serving it on drop scones with mushrooms, inspired by the Hebridean heritage of proprietor Seumas MacInnes. He helped build a Glasgow legend in the process, enhanced throughout with Tim Stead’s striking wooden furniture. Today, Gandolfi remains an unmissable fixture on the city’s culinary scene. The black pudding features still, as does the white variety, served with apple, crispy onions and Cumberland sauce. But the place has far more going for it than congealed blood. Its repertoire of pastas, salads and comfort foods are executed with excellence. A particular highlight is the smoked haddock and tiger prawns pasta in a saffron cream sauce, and the Gandolfi macaroni cheese, at £7.50, is definingly good. Further time-honoured Gandolfi tastes are New York pastrami on sourdough bread and meatloaf with sweet potato mash and red pepper relish. + Great cooking with the best of Scotland’s larder - Can’t eat there every day

✱ Cafezique

66 Hyndland Street, West End, G11 5PT (Map 9: B2, 5) 0141 339 7180, delizique. com | Mon–Sun 9am–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am–midnight.] HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £14 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Fun, unpretentious, quality, value and, tasty are the adjectives which apply to cafezique. Service is informal, but friendly and attentive in this quirky

laid back bar/restauraunt. Nibbly things include great olives and delicious cheese fondue accompanied by the sublime home made bread, baked fresh daily in the sister deli next door. There are more veggie starters than mains and the beetroot and pearl barley risotto is flavoursome and hearty. To follow, slow cooked shoulder of lamb with dumplings in a vegetable broth, is tasty, like something your granny would make and it lives on in the mind long after your visit. The Cumberland sausage from their Aberfoyle butcher is more predictable but also very good. The raspberry and polenta cake is moist and perfectly accompanied by the smooth and light custard. The chocolate brownie is good enough, but the home made toasted marshmallows elevate the whole dish beyond the ordinary. If you don’t have a sweet tooth then 2 ripe cheeses from George Mewes, will be the perfect end to a meal cooked with skill, care and respect. + Grown-up good food - Quirky furniture – not always the most comfortable

Citation

40 Wilson Street, Merchant City, G1 1HD (Map 7: B2, 9) 0141 559 6799, citationglasgow.com | Mon–Sun 10am–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 10am–midnight.] Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh. £20 (lunch) / £24 (dinner)

Once the home of the Sheriff Court, this imposing structure is now in session as a lively multi-levelled bar/restaurant complex. The Taverne’s right up at the top, with traditional styling and dark décor complemented by a large outdoor seating area. But despite the elegant legal trappings, the atmosphere is informal, attracting large groups of office colleagues and family celebrations, as well as older couples. Meat and seafood predominate, with some unusual dishes among familiar pan-fried and chargrilled cuts. Case for the defence: a main course sea bass is perfectly cooked, simply bringing out its own flavour, with a perky vanilla and parsnip purée on the side.

The Butchershop Bar & Grill

1055 Sauchiehall Street, West End, G3 7UD (Map 9: E5, 115) 0141 339 2999, butchershopglasgow.com | Sun–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am.] Pre; HW £15.95; Kids. £10.95 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

A warm welcome awaits at this comfortably stylish bar and grill, and so it should: the general manager once worked Andrew Fairlie’s front of house. In the kitchen the CVs are no less impressive, with head chef Alex Thain having trained with Gordon Ramsay. Crisp-coated, tender calamari are a good opener, as are the nicely cooked scallops. It’s no surprise that this place is aimed at carnivores and, apart from a token gnocchi, vegetarians are not going to feel the love. Several cuts of steaks are the order of the day, with the 8oz fillet skilfully prepared, succulent, and packing flavour – helped by beef that is grass fed and matured for 21–28 days on the bone. Other highlights include the daube of beef – beautifully tender having been slow-cooked to perfection. Given the inspiration here comes from NYC, the NY cheesecake is let down by a soggy base. However, you can soon cheer yourself up with a digestif from the interesting transatlantic cocktail menu. If you appreciate great service, high-quality cuts and feeling spoiled, the Butchershop is a worthy destination. + Great service - The Cheesecake

Delizique: this West End favourite now serves excellent pizzas

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Glasgow The large surf ‘n’ turf, too, ties together its generous fillet steak half and fat tiger prawns with a great smoky barbecue tang. There are a few objections: the French onion soup looks deliciously thick but the beefy stock makes it taste vaguely Bistoish. And a dessert of good quality icecream is smothered in sickly fudge sauce and served with cookies that go soggy. Overall verdict: certainly a place to try, particulary en mass. + Generous portions - Not much for vegetarians

City Café

Hilton Garden Inn, Finnieston Quay, West End, G3 8HN (Map 9: G6, off) 0141 227 1010, glasgowcitycentre@hgi.com | Mon–Fri 6.30–10am, noon–3pm, 5.30– 9.30pm; Sat/Sun 7–11am, 1pm–3pm, 5.30–9.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am– midnight; Sun 12.30pm–midnight.] Veg; Pre; HW £17.75; Kids; Wh; T/A. £17.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

The City Café is a riverside hotel restaurant (under new ownership this year) boasting great riverside views and convenient proximity to concert venues. Servings are relatively small, so if ravenous then it’s probably best to plump for the full three courses. À la carte starters may include the pretty, delicate roasted pumpkin and blue cheese stack or the beautifully presented beetroot-cured salmon with horseradish potato salad – which is very mild, presumably not to detract from the main star’s flavours. Mains may be steaks or pork chop from the grill, fish and chips, sea bass or piquillo pepper risotto with aged balsamic vinegar and spring onion fondue – the subtly spicy and very sweet flavour of the pepper is the over-riding taste in this creamy dish. There is a good choice of desserts; equally so on the set menu where the dark chocolate tart with honey ice-cream would be a winner anywhere. In fact, the set menu holds its own with the à la carte, speaking volumes for the quality of cooking and attention to detail in this very fine eaterie. + Almost all – from the spacious terrace to the chef’s lightness of touch - Imbalance of flavours at times

Clark & Sons

14 Busby Road, Clarkston Toll, Southside, G76 7XL (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 638 3911, clark-and-sons.com | Mon– Sun 10am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Wed noon–11.30pm; Thu–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 12.30pm–midnight.] Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Located in the deep south of Clarkston, Clarke & Sons is a spacious, relaxed venue with a sort of ‘executive airport lounge’ feel, that garners a heavy following both as a bar and eaterie. It’s not cheap, but dishes have a touch of extravagance, and are generally well rendered. To start, soft shell crab is fried until super crisp, though a decent hit of fishiness still comes through, offset by celeriac coleslaw. The seafood poliferation on the menu continues in the monkfish with saffron potatoes in a chorizo broth – the fish’s meatiness stands up to intensity of the sausage (actually merguez); a great combination of rugged and refined. Elsewhere, ‘fillet and crisp belly of pork’ is well-seasoned and delicately smoky, but the winner is the charcuterie platter, artfully heaped shreds of pastrami, Serrano, salami and chorizo, fresh around the edges and full of flavour, with griddled bread and the totsy wee pickles the French call cornichons. The lunch menu and ‘Peroni & Pasta’ deal represent a fair saving on the evening à la carte. + The sense of space - Long way out unless you’re a local

✱ Cookie

72 Nithsdale Road, Southside, G41 2AN (Map 8: C2, 7) 0141 423 1411, cookiescotland.com | Tue–Thu 10am– 9pm; Fri/Sat 10am–9.30pm; Sun 10am– 5pm. Closed Mon. [Bar open: Tue–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 11.30am–5pm.] Veg; HW £15.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £12 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Cookie’s owners are passionate about food and source it in all kinds of cookie ways, even bartering with allotment owners to get ultra local produce. No two visits are the same as there’s always something new and interesting to eat or drink. This is no plush restaurant, rather an informal, laid-back café-bistro vibe pervades, heightened by the open kitchen – always an indication of proud, honest cooking. Blackboards display the ever-changing menu, but there’s always a pasta and a risotto available as a starter or main. Pasta a la norcina is beautifully cooked with cream, pecorino cheese, white wine, red onion, Italian sausage and just enough garlic. The pork belly starter is a tad dry, jostling for prominence with the mighty Stornoway black pudding, although the cidersoaked apricots added sweet overtones and helped bind it all together. Chicken supreme is perfectly moist, triumphantly accompanied by grilled polenta and wild mushrooms. If you like big meaty flavours, try the meltingly beautiful ox cheek bourguignon. For dessert, go for home-made meringues, and to drink, their own specially imported house red is recommended. + Great fun with food - An experimental approach can go wrong occasionally

The Corinthian Club

191 Ingram Street, City Centre, G1 1DA (Map 7: B1, 2) 0141 552 1101, thecorinthianclub.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon– 10pm; Fri/Sat noon–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 7.30am–6.30am.] Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh. £11.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

The brasserie and bar area in the Corinthian must be one of the most beautiful rooms in Scotland. If you want to impress then this dramatic central hall of the former High Court is certainly the place to come. The food can’t really compete with such splendour and, to be fair, doesn’t really attempt it. To start, the Oban scallops are really good, very fresh and skilfully cooked, the ham hock accompanying them beautifully, while the leek and smoked haddock quiche is delicate but could pack more of a fishy punch. The mains range from lobster and lamb to salmon and sea bass. Sirloin steaks are mighty, as is the burger – thick and lean, dense with meat. Although the pattie’s flavour doesn’t match its stature, the accompanying chips, bun and Asian coleslaw are great, the latter subtley spiced, providing a much-needed kick. Dessert choice is surprisingly small, though a richly potent dark chocolate tart is rewarding, and macaroons with the coffee are a lovely touch. While the kitchen dishes up the occasional flourish, the interior is the real star here. + Surroundings and atmosphere - Inconsistent food quality

Cottier’s

93–95 Hyndland Street, West End, G11 5PX (Map 9: B2, 3) 0141 357 5825, thecottier.com | Mon–Sun 5–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–midnight.] Veg; Pre; HW £14.50; Kids. £19 (dinner)

Stencils on the walls, fairy lights and candles add plenty of character and atmosphere to proceedings in this converted church. Service is genuinely warm and helpful while suitably informal given the relaxed surroundings. The

carpaccio of Inverurie beef is good, but the meat is not really flavoursome enough to serve in this style. The bruschetta of Scottish brie is substantial, the spiced tomato chutney adding flavour with a gentle kick. Mains include salmon, sea bass, chicken and a daily steak special. The Gressingham duck is nicely prepared with a full, rounded flavour, and the kitchen is flexible enough to upscale a lovely starter of scallops in white wine cream, to main size without fuss. Leave room for dessert – they are all homemade highlights. The unusual lemon olive oil cake is particularly good, moist and delectable. The brown sugar and cinnamon semi-freddo is rich, creamy with the correct texture of frozen mousse – delicious. The wine list is not long, but with six bottles under £16, it’s pretty good value. + Great desserts - Some dishes not quite working

Criterion

568 Dumbarton Road, West End, G11 6RH (Map 9: A3, off) 0141 334 1964, criterioncafe.com | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am– midnight.] HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £10.95 (set lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

Half old traditional Partick café, half hipster hangout, The Criterion is slightly more bar-oriented than its next door neighbour and sister establishment Velvet Elvis. But it’s just as eccentric in terms of fixtures and fittings, with its shelves bearing old typewriters and radios and its menus masquerading as Penguin books. High wooden booths line one wall, for cosy chats, while the bar is ideally placed for propping up against on a stool. During the week it shares the same menu as Velvet Elvis, but on the weekend it offers its own basic selection, mostly pub favourites like pizzas and burgers. The ‘Famous Criterion fish supper’ is a hefty wodge of fairly bland fish, served with thick hand-cut chips that also accompany the ribeye steak – it would be better with thin frites, and it’s a smallish piece of meat for the price. Glazed chicken wing starters are greasy and chewy, but fresh mussels are served in a piquant wine and garlic sauce. Desserts are limited, but a fruit crumble is sugary sweet which doesn’t offset its ice-cream on the side. Weekend nights can be busy. + Packed with character - Disappointing sides

Delizique

70–72 Hyndland Street, West End, G11 5PT (Map 9: B2, 4) 0141 339 2000, delizique.com | Mon–Sun 9am–7pm. Veg; T/A.

Delizique was obliged to respond to the arrival nearby of Waitrose and the consequent impact upon the business of shifting gorgeous little snacky things. It scaled down its retail side and reclaimed the space for a sit-in cafe/ pizzeria – a gorgeous and snacky pizzeria, of course; you don’t get toppings of Majorcan spreading chorizo at Domino’s. Decoratively, there’s a mock al fresco feel, with rustic furniture and a sturdy olive tree slap in the middle of the room. Mhairi Taylor has taken the menu of her ever-popular Cafezique next door and rejigged it for those requiring a quicker or a more modest experience. There’s a lengthy inventory of nibbles to start, priced averagely around £3 – mini sausage rolls, hummus, pâtés and crudities with lemony crème-fraiche. But the pizzas are the main event. The style here is small and concentrated. They’re £7 to eat in (£6 to take away) and they’re not much bigger than a seven-inch single. But they’re loaded with with the kinds of intense, well-bred flavours in which the Zique

✱ HITLIST BISTROS & BRASSERIES ✱ Café Gandolfi Decades at the top of the game never seem to dull the enthusiasm for excellent Scottish food. ✱ Cafezique A great place for a snack with drinks or a full meal. Quirky and welcoming quality food in the heart of the West End. ✱ Cookie It is all about having fun with great food and drink at this unpretentious Southside spot. ✱ The Drake The upstairs may only be open two nights a week but it offers elegant dining in a lovely Victorian drawing room. ✱ Fanny Trollopes Fancy flavours without the formality at this perennial Finnieston favourite. ✱ Guy’s Restaurant With quality food across a large, eclectic menu, there’s something here to suit all tastes. ✱ The Left Bank A top spot for relaxed dining and drinking from a diversely appealing menu. ✱ The Pelican Café Creative local and seasonal produce dished up in fine surroundings opposite the art gallery. ✱ Stravaigin Café Bar Whether as a place to hang out with a beer or to dine on some fabulous food, Stravaigin keeps on giving. marque specialises. + Compatibility of pizza and popcorn - No drinks licence (for now)

✱ The Drake

1 Lynedoch Street, West End, G3 6EF (Map 9: H4, 83) 0141 332 7363, thedrakebar.co.uk | Fri/Sat 5–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–midnight.] HW £13.50; Kids. £20 (dinner)

While the basement bar is a cosy, casual hangout with a tempting menu of comfort food and bar classics, the unusual restaurant upstairs is a real surprise: two beautiful Victorian dining rooms which create an atmosphere more like an evening at Downton Abbey than a restaurant. With a fine view onto Woodlands Road and genteel décor, it’s classy without being overly formal. The food is pretty posh too: weekly menus based on local and seasonal produce, which are carefully prepared and presented to highlight fresh flavours. A starter of king scallops, for instance, is pan-seared to just the right texture to bring out their tender sweetness, while a cured Orkney herring is smokey without being too strong. Mains tend to have interesting sides, like the black pudding

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Glasgow mash, which accompanies an organic pork chop along with tart home-made apple sauce, while the peppercorn sauce for steak is not the usual bland, creamy gloop but a lovely rich sauce with whole peppercorns. Desserts are heavily indulgent. During the week, downstairs serves bar food daily, including a brunch selection on the weekends, while upstairs is available for private functions, but Fridays and Saturdays are open for general business, though advance booking is definitely recommended. + Elegant surroundings - Limited opening times

and butter bean stew at £15.95, a main that stuck to the ribs in the most elegant way possible. As did a chicken supreme with a chorizo, chick pea and potato stew. The two-course lunch for £11 provides a budget way in, and there’s a compendious wine list arranged by the manner in which they perform on the palate, such as Juicy, Fruit-Driven, Ripe Whites. If you wish to know how the other half live, and eat, the Giffnock Ivy provides a most agreeable glimpse. + Excellent lamb dish - Good wines mean a visit can get pricey

Eat Café

21–25 Bothwell Street, City Centre, G2 6NL (Map 6: C4, 86) 0141 248 6262, blackhouse.uk.com | Mon–Sun noon–11pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon– midnight.] HW £14.75; Kids; Wh. £26 (lunch) / £26 (dinner)

The Grill on the Corner

69 Kilmarnock Rd, Southside, G41 3YR See Cafés

Epicures of Hyndland

159 Hyndland Road, West End, G12 9JA (Map 9: A1, 1) 0141 334 3599, epicuresofhyndland.com | Mon –Sat 8am–9.30pm; Sun 9am–9.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 8am–midnight; Sun 9am– midnight.] HW £14.50; Kids; Wh. £9.50 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

It was one of the mysteries of the age; why didn’t Hyndland boast a decent restaurant? After all, this fragrant area of Glasgow’s West End was scarcely short of disposable income. Then, like buses, two came along in quick succession, both run by Lawrence McManus, owner of Café Antipasti on Byres Road. The Italian Nick’s came first, then Epicures, the more upscale of the two, with a coffee shop drop-in centre as you enter and a sit-down restaurant at the rear, up a small flight of stairs, thus affording a Jackie Bird’seye view of the cashmered lunching ladies nearer to ground level. With such a substantial volume of traffic the place needs judicious staffing and it has it; Epicure’s is an act calibrated adeptly to its clientele, adjusting with fluidity to its needs throughout the day. Accordingly, the menu is broad and familiar; steaks, burgers, big breakfasts and similar. The eggs Benedict were a cut above and from the à la carte menu sea bass on a lemon and thyme risotto summarised the ethos of this informal yet discerning establishment. + Well suited to the locale - Can be mobbed on weekends

Limelight Bar & Grill: Hotel Indigo’s colourful, stylish restaurant

✱ Fanny Trollopes

1066 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8LY (Map 9: F6, 100) 0141 564 6464, fannytrollopes.co.uk | Tue–Fri 5pm–9pm; Sat noon–2.30pm, 5pm–9pm; Sun 5pm– 9pm. Closed Mon. [Bar open: Tue–Sat/ Sun until midnight.] [Jan–Mar: closed Sat lunch; all day Sun.] Pre; BYOB (£5, £7 fizz); HW £13.95; Kids. £12.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Wh = Wheelchair access and disabled toilet.

From its cheeky name and origin story (see the portrait inside or on their website) to the lively weekend crowds attracted by pre-theatre deals, Fanny’s doesn’t seem exactly a subtle place. Yet a glance at its inventive menu contradicts that: it’s a strongly seasonal mix of local fowl, fish, meat and vegetables simply but elegantly prepared to bring out their best, and complemented with some unusual flavours and sides – showing owner/ chef Gary Bayless’s French training. A wood pigeon starter is carefully roasted on a bed of puy lentils and bacon with a red wine reduction to bring out its smoky tenderness, while the unusual combination of chorizo and scotch egg, combined with a red pepper coulis, is a surprisingly effective balance of tastes. Portions are large: it’s a struggle to finish a slow-roasted shoulder of Glenfarg lamb, though it’s deeply mellow and yielding – and plenty of vegetables too. A dessert of delicate rhubarb fingers is silky and fresh, dipped into a light vanilla cream. With an ambition much bigger than its small space, this is one classy trollope. + Informed and efficient service - Can be swamped by noisy weekend groups

T/A = Takeaway food.

Firebird

D = Delivery. Price in bold = Average cost of a two-course evening meal for one. The price of a set lunch is shown; otherwise we show the average cost of a two-course lunch for one. For full explanations see page 4.

1321 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8TL (Map 9: D5, 117) 0141 334 0594, firebirdglasgow.com | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu noon– midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am; Sun noon– midnight.] Veg; HW £13.85; Kids; Wh; T/A. £7 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

A West End institution over the past decade or so, Firebird has always been known primarily for its pizzas (which can

be bought to takeaway). Hand-made and cooked in a wood-fired oven, giving them a faint smokey flavour, they are thin and crispy with an extensive range of toppings – chorizo and pickled chilies is an appropriately fiery delight. And, like the pasta dishes, they are available in a nonwheat version which is handy for those with allergies. Elsewhere the menu is vaguely Mediterranean – tortillas, gnocchi – with varying success. The intriguingly named Three Little Pigs dish of pulled pork, ham and bacon could be a winner but is compromised by being slathered in a gamey sauce, making the pigs all taste the same – and the vegetables are meagre. But a creamed butternut squash soup redeems itself from blandness with a pesto kick, while the home-made icecream is good. The layout and décor here are quirky, with a large fish tank, long curved wooden bar and intimate wooden tables hiding in the back. + Crispy pizzas - Laid-back service

Gandolfi Fish

84 Albion Street, Merchant City, G1 1NY See Fish

The Giffnock Ivy

219 Fenwick Road, Giffnock, Southside, G46 6JD (Map 8: A4, off) 0141 620 1003, giffnockivy.co.uk | Tue–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5–10pm; Sun 12.30–9pm. Closed Mon. Pre; HW £12.95; Kids. £11 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Located in this none-more-salubrious Southside enclave, the Giffnock Ivy enjoys a captive market of well-heeled grown-ups and it plays to them adroitly. In fact, so smooth and suasive is its ambience of classy refinement it’s hard to believe the restaurant has been in its current configuration only since 2008. The dining room is low-lit, done out with corner banquettes and judiciously spaced tables, while the stated aim is ‘modern Scottish with a European accent’. This means well-sourced meat and fish, presented in imaginative but familiar ways. One highlight was the rump of Scottish lamb with a Toulouse sausage

This busy central restaurant is quite imposing from the outside, looking in through the fairy light-covered windows to the arguably cold minimalist chrome and black leather interor. But the warmth of the welcome, the friendly vibe (especially in the bar) and the complete lack of pretension from the informed, involved staff make for a delightful dining experience. Meat and seafood are the main stars here – an impressive array of surf and turf, from haddock to oysters and dover sole, from pies and chateaubriand to the famous kobe beef awaits the bulging wallets and the budget-conscious alike. There’s soup and DIY garlic bread for under £8 – the side is presented in a wooden box with fresh bread, a halfbulb and small jug of olive oil; a unique and healthy take on the old standard. The beef is ‘premium quality and aged for 28 days’ and happlily lives up to its billing, although medium-rare may leans towards the medium. One of the few veggie options, the goat’s cheese tarte tatin with beetroot and cipollini onions is a satisfying intruder in this carnivore kingdom. + Efficient and effective - Prices may deter some

✱ Guy’s Restaurant & Bar

24 Candleriggs, Merchant City, Merchant City, G1 1LD (Map 7: C2, 31) 0141 552 1114, guysrestaurant.co.uk | Tue–Thu noon–10.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–11.30pm; Sun 12.30–9.30pm. Closed Mon. [Bar open: Tue–Sat noon–1am; Sun 12.30pm– midnight. Closed Mon.] LC; Pre; HW £15.65; Kids; Wh. £9.95 (set lunch) / £28 (dinner)

It’s almost certainly worth booking at this well-established Merchant City favourite. At the end of the bar, the dining area is bright and buzzy, with some of the tables quite close together – more suited to social rather than intimate dining. Service is warm and friendly and staff are knowledgeable about the eclectic, large menu, ranging from sushi to spaghetti and from foie gras to mince and tatties. The Sicilian caponatao starter is deliciously oily, with a depth of flavour from the creamy aubergine, hinting at the considerable skill in the kitchen. A main of wild Highland venison is deftly cooked, with the orange teriyaki sauce complementing rather than overpowering the wonderful gamey flavour. Provenance is important here and the calf’s liver from Sunnyside farm, their ‘veal man of Sanquhar’, is utterly delicious. Desserts are hearty, featuring fruit crumble, chocolate fudge cake and bread and butter pudding. If these are too much, then the generous cheese plate is a tasty savoury alternative. This excellent restaurant may not be the cheapest, but the surprisingly large menu features some top-qualty dishes that are suitable for many tastes.

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In association with

+ The variety on offer - Space around tables is tight

iKafe

138 Nithsdale Road, Southside, G41 5RB See Cafés

Ingram Wynd

56–58 Ingram St, Merchant City, G1 1EX See Scottish

The Italian Caffè

92 Albion Street, Merchant City, G1 1NY See Italian

The Lansdowne Bar & Kitchen 7a Lansdowne Cres, West End, G20 6NQ See Bars & Pubs

✱ The Left Bank

33–35 Gibson Street, West End, G12 8NU (Map 9: F3, 67) 0141 339 5969, theleftbank.co.uk | Mon–Fri 9am–10pm; Sat/Sun 10am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Fri 9am–midnight; Sat/Sun 10am–midnight.] Veg; Pre; HW £15.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £13 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Within its warren of nooks and crannies, the Left Bank offers a kaleidoscopic take on casual dining. Aimed squarely at the broadsheet-reading classes of this undergraduate-heavy area, and housed within a refurbished, multilevelled bank building, it takes an ethnic approach to things, with a menu divided between smalls/sides and all-day mains. Proprietorial confidence in ‘the best ever sticky pork ribs’, in molasses, star anise and sesame, proves more than justified. Or you can breakfast on either of two continents via the Bombay: spiced potatoes, wilted spinach and chickpea chaat; or the huevos Mexicanos: eggs scrambled with tomato and beans on tortilla. The subcontinental weaves its way into as much as it practically can, with corn-fed Kashmiri spiced chicken and a thali involving cauliflower kofta, dal and papads. The basics of modern Scottish dining are covered too, with beef from a family farm in Ayrshire, West Coast mussels and Cream o’ Galloway ice-cream. As with its nearby sister the Two Figs in Byres Road, and the recent Southside sibling the Bungo, the Left Bank is a bracing collision of here, there and everywhere. + Broad menu never stumbles - Choosing from expansive menu

Limelight Bar and Grill

75 Waterloo Street, City Centre, G2 7DA (Map 6: B4, 90) 0141 226 7726, limelightglasgow.co.uk | Mon–Thu 6.30am–10pm; Fri 6.30am–10.30pm; Sat 7am–10.30pm; Sun 7am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30pm–midnight.] Pre; HW £18.95; Kids; Wh. £12 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Situated in the Hotel Indigo, Limelight is a smart, bright venue, well appointed with spacious booths and an upmarket feel. Service is good, if a little impersonal, probably due to the fact that the hotel, although styled like an independent boutique hotel, is owned by a large international chain. The menu doesn’t hold too many surprises, and has a retro feel, ranging from steaks to fish and chips via caesar salad and classic prawn cocktail. The pig’s cheeks are probably the most daring starter and were beautifully tender, interestingly accompanied by spicy morcilla, rather than the ubiquitous Stornoway black pudding. Popular butcher Simon Howie supplies the meat here, and the fillet steak was nicely prepared, dependably tasty, with a rich red wine sauce. To follow, the fondant was inside out, with the chocolate sauce poured over rather than oozing out of the sponge, and so lacked any surprise.

This is a stylish hotel restaurant and while the food and cooking is solid enough, it’s hard to shake that fact, particularly in deepest officeland where coprorate suits and expense accounts roam freely. + Stylish dining room - Feels like a hotel restaurant

The Living Room

150 St Vincent Street, City Centre, G2 5NE (Map 6: C3, 60) 0141 229 0607, thelivingroom.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat noon–2am.] Pre; HW £14.15; Kids; Wh. £12 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Weekends at this popular bar and diner feature live music and even a regular magician – helping to create a lively infectious buzz that is easy to get caught up in. Couples and groups are seated in leather booths, helping to break up the restaurant space and injecting some intimacy, while the busy waiters flit around with efficient pleasantness. The large menu includes starters ranging from mussels and chicken liver parfait to Thai fish-cakes and risotto. Although the panfried chorizo is rather chewy, the beerbattered prawns are a success. The varied mains include steaks, burgers, lasagne, and a rack of lamb. The tandoori sea bass is enjoyable although lacking the layers of spice you’d get in an Indian restaurant. Similarly the Thai green curry is solid enough, but without the complex flavours of an authentic preparation. Chocolate and salted caramel tart is a gratifying finale. It’s called the living room and not the dining room for a reason it seems – it’s not all about the food here, it’s as much about a fun, entertaining night out, and that’s exactly what is delivered. + Weekend party vibe - Some disappointing dishes

Lucky 7 Canteen

166 Bath Street, City Centre, G2 4TB (Map 6: C2, 33) 0141 331 6227, lucky7canteen.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon– 10pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11am–11pm; Fri/Sat noon– 3am; Sun noon–11pm.] Veg; HW £13. £9 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

The peeling wallpaper, plain wood and 1970s style cushions on the booth benches are all deliberate: for all Lucky 7 looks like a dodgy old bedsit, it’s actually carefully contrived to give this city centre hangout a laid-back, studenty atmosphere. This is not a place to show off designer togs; the emphasis is more on conversation going on into the night – and food. The original idea of all mains costing £7 has been scaled back, but there are still a range of both meat and veggie selections at that price, with some more ambitious dishes at a few pounds extra. A starter of grilled goat’s cheese on crostini, with a rich plum chutney, is light, sweet and a good size, while a salad packs in big chunks of butternut squash, feta, caramelised onions and puy lentils to make a very filling dish. Home-made burgers are splendidly thick and the veggie variety is spicy with a good, firm texture, accompanied by thick hand-cut chips, while a chicken supreme comes with a generous lake of piquant shallot jus. A promotional offer gives 20 per cent off the food bill if you can produce any theatre or gig ticket for that night, making it handy for those going on elsewhere, but be wary of timings as the casual vibe can extend to gaps between courses. + Friendly, enthusiastic staff . . . - . . . can be too laid-back

Malmaison

278 West George St, City Centre, G2 4LL See French The List Eating & Drinking Guide 127

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BROWNS GLASGOW

Lazy Weekend Brunch Tempting Daily Specials Fabulous Champagnes Sunday Roasts Garden Function Area Afternoon Teas

1 GEO R G E S QUAR E , G L AS G OW, G 2 1 DY Tel: 0141 221 7828 • www.browns-restaurants.co.uk

My food is Real Food. I do not follow trends or fads. Every dish on my menus is there because I like to cook and eat it. My sushi, raviolis, mince and tatties are prepared applying the same attention to detail, fabulous standard of ingredients and passion as every other plate I serve. Desserts are lovingly crafted in my kitchen from the ice cream to the crumble. Guy’s Restaurant & Bar 24 Candleriggs, Merchant City Glasgow G1 1LD Tel: 0141 552 1114 Email: info@guysrestaurant.co.uk

list.co.uk

Metropolitan

✱ The Pelican Café

Given the weather, Metropolitan’s indoor terrace overlooking Merchant Square is the safest way to dine al fresco in Glasgow. It’s a very pleasant place to be, with the sandstone walls, linen napkins and twinkling fairy lights adding atmosphere to the dining experience. The menu is not overly long and starters include some unusual dishes including seared baby squid with chorizo and potatoes. It is delicious and light – perhaps a little too light on the baby squid though. Mains are more substantial, although the fillet steak is not as lean as you’d hope, yet the seared duck breast is much better, accompanied by prunes soaked in armagnac and a deliciously sweet potato fondant. Other mains include a vegetable tagine and risotto with king scallops. No surprises among the desserts, featuring apple crumble, profiteroles, sticky toffee pudding – without a twist, and a good panacotta. It’s a smart venue for a post work dink, date or night out with friends. The atmosphere’s great and, almost, feels more Eternal City than Merchant City. + A smart, classy venue - Inconsistent cooking

Sitting opposite the Kelvingrove Museum and Art Gallery means there is plenty of footfall for the retro-style Pelican. Yet clearly they’re intent on matching quantity with quality, for there’s a careful attention to detail on their menu, which proudly states the provenance the local, Scottish produce. Inside it’s spacious, with wooden booths and tables looking onto an open kitchen; service is friendly and informal. Small plate starters include a tangy caramelised onion and cheddar tart, given a twist with a strong thyme flavour, or a creamy potted crab with shrimps, salad and sourdough. Their juicy, meaty burgers include a few unusual takes (like lamb and chorizo), while a prime chargrilled fillet steak served with fluffy goose-fat chips and a piquant sauce is one of the best in town. A take on the fish supper – coley, sea bass and king prawn in a light and crispy real-ale batter – justifies the higher than usual price. The sticky toffee pudding is insanely generous and may forestall any cultural leanings you had planned, especially if you take advantage of the policy of pricing the wine at £5 over retail cost. + Admirable nods to food provenance - Mobbed at weekends

Mise en Place

Peter’s West End

The locals in Pollokshields are very lucky to have this café/deli on their doorstep. It’s the ideal place to visit when faced with an empty fridge. Bright airy clean space with a reassuringly small menu, given the size of the room. The simple starters include home-made soup, smoked salmon and a delicious tart of the day. There’s also a good warm goat’s cheese salad and classic bresaola with rocket and parmesan. Mains include a heart-warmingly good lasagne, and an equally gratifying beef chilli, although it’s lacking a real kick. The warm black pudding, poached egg and bacon salad sits alongside classics like caesar salad and a club sandwich. Desserts are all home-made and include a great, chewy-in-the-middle meringue and, although ubiquitous these days, an above-average sticky toffee pudding. The wine list represents good value and, though a small selection, it complements the menu really well. Mise en place is all about good value, good service, and understated top-quality food. Oh, and they serve tablet with great coffee to finish. + Fresh, wholesome, homely food - Evenings limited to Thu, Fri and Sat

Most of the customers at this small bistro next to Mansfield Park are local and regular, but there’s a nice welcome here for all. The décor is simple and subdued, like the menu, but there are a few unusual touches among more traditional dishes like fish-cakes and fillets. A starter of black pudding and chicken croquettes might sound odd, especially with an apple and herb dressing, but it’s a surprisingly good combination of spice and sweet, while a spiced goat’s cheese tart is light and creamy. Starters are generously portioned, although bigger is to come, such as the huge but perfectly done seared sirloin, served with a grainy dollop of haggis on top, along with fluffy fat chips and crunchy vegetables, all in a subtle whisky sauce. More manageable is a hugely colourful vegetable bake, with squash and peppers among its varied elements. Their toffee chocolate pudding is superbly rich and moist, oozing softly in a little butterscotch sauce next to good quality ice-cream. Service is whiskingly efficient and there’s a small bar, but no Peter – that’s from a previous owner. + Generous portions - Trying to cram them in

Merchant Square, Candleriggs, Merchant City, G1 1LE (Map 7: C2, 26) 0141 553 1488, metropolitan-bar.com | Sun–Thu 5–10pm; Fri 5–10.30pm; Sat noon–10.30pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu 11am–midnight; Fri 11am–2am; Sat 11am–3am.] Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh. £24 (dinner)

122–124 Nithsdale Road, Southside, G41 5RB (Map 8: C1, 3) 0141 424 4600, misenplace.co.uk | Sun–Wed 9am–5pm; Thu–Sat 9am–9pm. HW £14; Kids; T/A. £12 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Moyra Jane’s

20 Kildrostan St, Southside, G41 4LU See Cafés

Mulberry Street Bar

778 Pollokshaws Rd, Southside, G41 2AE See Bars & Pubs

Mussel Inn

157 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 2UQ See Fish

No. Sixteen

16 Byres Road, West End, G11 5JY See Scottish

1377 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8AF (Map 9: D4, 122) 0844 573 0670, thepelicancafe.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu noon– midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am.] Pre; HW £15; Kids; Wh. £7.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

39 Hyndland Street, West End, G11 5QF (Map 9: B3, 6) 0141 337 2100 | Tue–Thu noon–3pm, 5–9pm; Fri noon–3pm, 5–9.30pm; Sat noon–9.30pm; Sun noon– 8.30pm. Closed Mon. Pre; HW £14.55; Kids; Wh. £12.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Red Onion

257 West Campbell Street, City Centre, G2 4TT (Map 6: C2, 41) 0141 221 6000, red-onion.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon– 10.00pm; Fri/Sat noon–10.30pm. Pre; HW £16.50; Kids; Wh. £N/A (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

A stylish, comfortable room with lots of wood, glass and exposed brick. Chefpatron John Quigley has a distinguished pedigree, and walks the floor happily explaining dishes, ingredients and making recommendations. To start the seared scallops are served atop a circle of chorizo making a deliciously tasty bite. The crispy goat’s cheese starter is a little less

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In association with

Cookie (page 125): this Southside favourite continues to impress

impressive, but the golden beetroot adds a welcome surprise to the dish. The harissa loin of lamb is wonderful, with the spice complementing rather than overpowering the delicious meat. It is served with merguez sausage adding another North African dimension, while on the side is a Greek-style tzatziki – a food fusion that really works. The prawns could be better quality, but they are the weak link in an otherwise delicious roast monkfish with king prawn and pea korma. Not all the desserts are home-made – a shame in so slick and skilled a restaurant. The hot chocolate brownie is a little ordinary, while the Thorntonhall ice cream with a salted caramel sauce more than makes up for any disappointment. + Some bold fusion - Not all dishes hit the heights

The Restaurant Bar & Grill

Princes Square, Buchanan Street, City Centre, G1 3JX (Map 6: D4, 77) 0141 225 5622, therestaurantbarandgrill.co.uk | Mon–Sat 10am–11pm; Sun noon–6pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 12.30–6.30pm.] Pre; HW £16.25; Kids; Wh. £15 (set lunch) / £28 (dinner)

It may not be the most distinctive, and it has a corporate whiff about it, but this restaurant blends wood, leather and glass to create a smart, contemporary yet comfortable diner – well suited to business lunches, shopping bites, office nights out or a romantic date. Service is very good, crisp and attentive without being over the top. The menu has an Asian twist with Goan fish-cakes and chilli squid to start alongside oysters and mussels. The king prawn tempura is good – satisfyingly large prawns in a tasty tempura batter. The scallops may be on the small side – but are tasty enough. The restaurant chain has its own herd of Limousin-cross cattle and the 8oz fillet is good, hand cut by their in-house butchers. Salmon fishcakes are filled with a generous amount of fish enriched by the spinach and dill butter sauce. Peanut butter cheesecake is very rich, the accompanying lemon sorbet so bitter

they are odd plate mates. Ubiquitous sticky toffee pudding was good, if a little predictable. This is a reliable restaurant that won’t surprise you. + Reliably dependent food and good service - Not a place for adventurous foodies

Roastit Bubbly Jocks

450 Dumbarton Rd, West End, G11 6SE See Scottish

St Louis Cafe Bar

734 Dumbarton Rd, West End, G11 7RD See North American

The Shandon Belles

652 Argyle Street, City Centre, G3 8UF (Map 9: G6, off) 0141 221 8188, twofatladiesrestaurant.com/ shandonbelles | Mon–Thu noon–10pm; Fri–Sat noon–11pm; Sun noon–9pm. HW £10; Kids. £12 (set lunch) / £12 (set dinner)

Once you’ve found your way to Glasgow institution the Buttery (which can be tricky), there’s a choice between the restaurant proper and this small bistro downstairs, under the same Two Fat Ladies management. This stylish, pretty space is decorated with curious knickknacks, and feels more casual than the fine dining establishment whose kitchen it shares. The menu’s not extensive and tends towards meaty comfort food, but with a slight Mediterranean twist. A roast red pepper risotto is a perfect starter size, though a little bland without cheese, while a leek and onion tart does feature goat’s cheese and is much more interesting and tangy than its rather anaemic-looking appearance suggests. From the mains, a good quality beef burger is appropriately juicy and tender, with large fluffy chips. Pork and leek sausages are also very chunky and come smothered in a rich cider gravy, with two kinds of potato (mash and roast) and some vegetables. Desserts, too, are rich and filling and there’s an admirably cheap but decent wine list. + Laid-back atmosphere - Out of the way The List Eating & Drinking Guide 129

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list.co.uk

Glasgow + The bell on a string rung from the kitchen - Don’t be in a hurry

✱ Stravaigin Café Bar

28 Gibson Street, West End, G12 8NX (Map 9: F3, 66) 0141 334 2665, stravaigin. com | Mon–Fri 9am–1am; Sat/Sun 11am– 1am. [Bar open: Mon–Fri 9am–1am; Sat/ Sun 11am–1am.] Veg; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh. £11.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Founded by the son of the chap who established the Ubiquitous Chip, Stravaigin has long pursued an equivalent policy of culinary curiosity. Where the Chip focuses on the native larder, though, Stravaigin tries to scan wider horizons, in keeping with the definition of the old Scots term from whence the place derives its name, meaning to wander. Famed for thrusting upon diners more menus than a knackered Apple Mac, the perpetually buzzing bar/diner over two floors can encompass Vietnamese, Turkish and Granny’s hielan’ hame in the space of a single sheaf. It’s all done to exacting standards, though, with a chatty and a fervid enthusiasm for the world and its flavours. The approach is typified by a Scottish seafood, sweet potato and bell pepper gumbo with an okra tempura, or the finger-licking delights of a Carolinabraised pork belly, with roast corn polenta, apple and pecan slaw, hot sauce at £14.95. Stravaigin’s Sunday fry-ups are legendary too and the two-course lunch at £12 is an unbeatable introduction to a restaurant that goes around the world in eighty plates. + Global reach of the menu - Bill can run away with you

Stravaigin 2

8 Ruthven Lane, West End, G12 9BG (Map 9: D1, 39) 0141 334 7165, stravaigin. com | Mon–Fri noon–11pm; Sat/Sun 11am–11pm. Pre; HW £16.95; Kids; Wh. £9.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

The younger Stravaigin, located near Byers Road, is an invitingly intimate space if lacking something of the character and quirkiness of the original. The food, however, is all you expect: imaginative combinations from around the globe impressively presented and prepared. Pork belly with mooli crisps is tender but crunchy where it counts and the chow mein brings a necessary softness. Beetroot and sweet potato ravioli is an creative and delicately combined starter typical of the Stravaigin style. The hake is ready to flake on the fork with a welcome oatmeal crunch and spicy cabbage to bite against the fish. An impressively large Thai burger with satisfyingly chunky hand-cut chips shows they can do crowd-pleasers as well as the fusion that established their reputation. Desserts are home-made icecream with a slightly too solid biscuit and intriguingly named m’hannchas, a Moroccan dish with finely layered pastry

Tron Theatre

63 Trongate, Merchant City, G1 5HB See Arts Venues

Two Fat Ladies Various branches See Fish

Urban Bar & Brasserie

23–25 St Vincent Place, City Centre, G1 2DT (Map 6: D4, 72) 0141 248 5636, urbanbrasserie.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–10.30pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu 11am–midnight; Fri/Sat 11am–1am.] LC; Pre; HW £16.95; Kids. £16.95 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

Café Gandolfi (page 124): creative cooking at this Glasgow institution

combined with honey and almonds. Staff cope admirably despite being seriously outnumbered, and if the ambience were to hit the heights of the food, this sibling could step out of the family shadow. + Beautifully presented food - Stylish but lacks a little atmosphere

Tempus Bar and Restaurant

Grand Central Hotel, 99 Gordon Street, City Centre, G1 3SF (Map 6: C4, 83) 0141 240 3700, principal-hayley.com | Sun– Thu 7–9.30am, 5–9pm; Fri/Sat 8–11am, 5–9.30pm. Veg; HW £17.95; Kids; Wh. £25 (dinner)

You feel you’re dining in the shade of history at Tempus – these days the dining room of the revamped Grand Central Hotel, it previously was the Malmaison Restaurant, the town’s swankiest destination for many a decade. An illustrated book demonstrating this is proffered readily, showing the upper echelon of the 1940s and 1950s dropping by. The style now is similarly Belle Epoque, with a mural depicting days gone by and ox-blood banquettes. Fittingly enough, steak is a theme here; the

Bar & Restaurant

A unique dining experience with comfort, style, taste and quality as standard.

Come and sample a glass of the ﬁnest ﬁzz in the most stylish bar in Glasgow. The Deli can be accessed directly from Central Station, offering delicious, fresh local food to eat in & take away. To book or for more details, please call 0141 240 3700 - 99 Gordon St, Glasgow, G1 3SF

Flavour of the Old Malmaison is a 14oz chateaubriand for two, carved at the table. The rest of the menu is equally meaty, though there is a well-trimmed fish-cake with prawns and a sherry vinaigrette for those more delicate. It is worth making a beeline for the Highland venison ‘en croute’ with marinated beetroot, rosti potato and leaf spinach, a surprisingly effective fist-fight of textures. Pizzas, such as smoked chicken, chorizo and jalapeños, and pastas are available too. Service is as observant as you’d expect in a hotel of this standing, ensuring that for customers new and old Tempus is a backto-the-future experience. + The heritage in the air - Meat-heavy menu

Tibo

443 Duke Street, Dennistoun, East End, G31 1RY (Map 7: E1, off) 0141 550 2050, cafetibo.com | Mon-Wed 10am–9pm; Thu–Sat 10am–9.45pm; Sun 10am–9pm. [Bar open: Sun–Tue 10am–9pm; Wed–Sat 10am–11pm.] Veg; HW £10.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £12 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

As the paper lanterns bob gently in the breeze from the ceiling fans and soulful tunes play, you enter a spiritual oasis on Duke Street at Tibo. Everything about the place is calming. Angus MacLeod at the helm likes to keep things this way. Dishes are prepared from scratch so don’t expect fast food – in fact a strict no hurrying rule has been introduced in the last year to prevent the busy lunchtime clientele from hassling staff over deadlines (you do, however, have the option of phoning in your takeaway order to save time). And all this chillaxing is reaping great rewards. The food is fresh, ingenious, tasty and full of flavour. The menu features favourites such as mac and cheese, but there are unique touches such as lentil, spinach and root veg pie or courgette, dill and chilli salad. And it’s fun too – the pizzas are named after local streets from the Fiery Finlay (a peppery monster) to the Duke (cheese and tomato). It says on the website ‘soothe your soul’ and it does not disappoint.

Positioned to receive tourists spilling out from George Square is this, the flagship in Alan Tomkins’ collection of Glasgow bars and restaurants. With its muted tones, champagne bar and live piano playing it seems halfway between a relaxed, cosmopolitan restaurant and soulless international hotel. The ‘reinvention of high tea’ is essentially a simple twocourse pre-theatre deal that has fish and chips among the choices – for £11.95. And what chips. These are crispy with super-fluffy insides and could be the best in town. By contrast the à la carte asks for £22 for lemon sole and chips. The signature fish soup will set you back a tenner and, while tasty, it lacks the depth of flavour you might expect for the price. Nevertheless, the number of places where you can dine with crisp table napkins and white china teapots – for £12 – are few and far between. There are always gluten and dairy-free options available and the high ceilings and low-level background music make it an attractive choice for treating the parents. + Superb chips - Rather impatient waiting staff

La Vallée Blanche

360 Byres Road, West End, G12 8AY See French

Velvet Elvis

566 Dumbarton Road, West End, G11 6RH (Map 9: A3, off) 0141 334 6677, velvet-elvis.com | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–midnight.] Veg; Pre; HW £14.95; Kids. £10.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Old-style café booths, exposed brickwork and menus delivered on LP record sleeves help to make Velvet Elvis stand out from the crowd. The food on the whole is predictable but there also more unusual and interesting options dotted around. For example, it doesn’t feel like the sort of place to serve wood pigeon with black pudding. It’s a richly satisfying dish and the pigeon’s perfectly pink, although the skin’s a little tough. Pearl barley risotto is rich and moist served with a delicious slice of glazed black crowdie, adding a welcome creamy cheesey dimension. Mains include standards like fish and chips and an above-average burger, while home-made pork sausages are big, meaty and accompanied by a good onion gravy. Desserts are a little disappointing – a knife would help to cut through the chocolate tart, although the rice pudding is a satisfying comfort-food option. There are plans to refresh the brand this year, which will help maintain the place as a welcome destination on the food and drink map. + Stylish interior - Desserts

Wee Lochan

340 Crow Road, West End, G11 7HT See Scottish

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Glasgow

CAFES Glasgow continues to offer cafés for every occasion. The city has everything from places providing the perfect weekend hangover pick-me-up to eateries perfectly set up to cater for the lunchhour rush. That’s assuming that you’re not already working from a café on your laptop anyway, something else that you can find the perfect location for. Café food in Glasgow can be anything from the usual coffee, sandwich, and cake, all the way up to eyecatching cheese and cured meat platters, luxurious afternoon teas, or some pretty impressive culinary flamboyance. Whatever your mood, budget, and appetite, you’ll find the right café for you in this section. Reviewers: Teddy Craig, Steven Dick, Eileen Heuston, Andrea Pearson

Alba

481 Great Western Road, West End, G12 8HL (Map 9: F2, 60) 07725 893 037 / 0141 237 7902 | Tue–Sat 9am–5pm. Veg; BYOB; Kids; T/A. £5.95 (set lunch)

Opened in 2011, it didn’t take husband and wife team Brendon Miller and Anne Smillie long to establish a relaxing and welcoming atmosphere for this pleasant café. Food is freshly prepared by Brendon and this effort comes across in both the look and taste of the delicacies on offer. A tempting array of pastries beam out from the cool-counter, including specials like

the delicious chicken and jalapeño slices. An emphasis on using local suppliers means that fruit and veg is supplied by near neighbours Roots & Fruits, while cheese comes from Mellis – a stone’s throw away. The feel of the venue is as good as the food, with its two levels suiting any mood. Downstairs has the feel of a laid-back bistro, while upstairs offers supreme lounging opportunities on the comfy couch. A £5.95 soup and sandwich deal and 10 per cent discount for students make Alba good value too. + Fresh quiches and pastries that catch the eye - Personal touch to food prep can slow things down

✱ An Clachan

Off La Belle Place, West End, G3 7LH (Map 9: G5, 94) 07846463614, kelvingroveparkcafe.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–8pm; Sat 9am–8pm; Sun 10am– 8pm. [Oct–April: closes 6pm.] Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £12 (set lunch for two)

Following an inspired renovation of a disused Kelvingrove playground shelter, An Clachan is a charming, independently owned café with a well-considered ethos. Everything is prepared on site, sourced responsibly and, even more impressively, 100 per cent of all waste is recycled. All that would count for little if the food were not up to scratch – but it’s all delicious. Alongside the regular menu are freshly made treats from the kitchen on display in the cooler. The Ramsay of Carluke ham hock pie is smokey, salty with a delicate pastry lid, and served with three variations on couscous and lentils it makes for a flavour-packed healthy lunch, all organic of course. A generous serving of mustard mash accompanies the sausages and, in a

novel twist, the sausage rolls are flavoured with home-made pesto. There’s a tempting selection of cakes and other bakes, too. Well worth a walk in the park. + An impressive ethos and tasty food - Not all the menu is always available

Artisan Roast

15–17 Gibson Street, West End, G12 8NU (Map 9: F3, 68) , artisanroast.co.uk | Mon– Fri 8am–7.30pm; Sat 9am–7.30pm; Sun 9am–6.30pm. Veg; Wh; T/A. £3.50 (set lunch)

Nestling on one of the city’s more illustrious streets, Artisan Roast is a cosy, welcoming caffeine den and a magnet for coffee lovers. The café’s fascination with and commitment to the black stuff means manager Megan Barker meticulously roasts their own beans three times a week using the in-house roaster, which dominates a corner of the pleasantly quirky interior. This love for coffee is reflected in the superior taste offered up in various guises. Cakes are baked fresh every day on the premises, and again this shows in the quality – particularly (as you’d expect) of the delicious espresso cake. The tasty savoury options, made using local ingredients, can be a bit limited later in the day, but the lunchtime soup and sandwich for £3.50 is excellent value given the quality. Notable for vegetarians is that all of the food is suitably animal-free. + Delicious house-roasted coffee - No WiFi

Avenue G

291 Byres Road, West End, G12 8TL (Map 9: D1, 42) 0141 339 5336, avenue-g.com | Mon–Sun 8.30am–7pm. Veg; BYOB (£5); Kids; Wh; T/A. £5.95 (set lunch) / £10 (dinner)

Avenue G prides itself on its coffee, and their menu even includes a handy customers’ guide to their array of options. It’s not just the coffee that they have every right to boast about though as the café’s food and ambience are both well worthy of note. An emphasis on local or Scottish sourcing for ingredients and produce is clear from the suppliers reassuringly listed on their menu. An array of tasty salads and sandwiches are on offer, though breakfast options are also available all day – including traditional French baked egg dish, eggs en cocotte. Those with a sweet tooth don’t miss out either, with the jaffa cakes (well, jaffacake cakes!) matching their impressive appearance with lovely flavours. If you manage to tire of looking at the aforementioned cakes though, then it’s the perfect place from which to look out onto Byres Road and watch the world go by. + Wonderful ambience and view - Only open to 7pm

Bagel Mania

338 Sauchiehall St, City Centre, G2 3JD See Sandwich Bars feature in Cafés

The Balcony Cafe

Upstairs @ The Glasgow Climbing Centre, 534 Paisley Road West, Southside, G51 1RN (Map 8: A1, off) 0141 427 9550 | Mon–Fri noon–9.30pm; Sat/ Sun 10am–6pm. Veg; Kids; T/A. £5 (set lunch) / £8 (dinner)

It isn’t completely about the ambience inside this converted late-1800s church – the food and coffee are good as well – but it is no doubt its USP. A wroughtiron spiral staircase leads up to a cosy, laid-back space where the view is of a mesmerising live climbing show – unless

29 Royal Exchange Square Glasgow, G1 3AJ 0141 225 5615 www.grillroomglasgow.com

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Glasgow you choose to sit farther back under the impressive stained-glass window. From a small kitchen, friendly staff offer an array of soups, sandwiches, starters and mains (and energy bars) but the choice is far from predictable: haggis cakes come with a sun-blushed chilli mayo, there’s salad with home-made coleslaw and mains include couscous, salmon with ginger and soy noodles, and a tempting venison burger. Top-notch too is the invention among the sarnies: duck egg mayo with morcilla (a Spanish black pudding with a hint of chorizo) and whisky smoked brie served with house red onion marmalade and salad are two fillings that stand out. + Stunning location and menu both outside the norm - Ciabatta bread can be a bit too crunchy

The Bay Tree Café

403 Great Western Road, West End, G4 9HY (Map 9: G2, 124) 0141 334 5898, baytreecafe.com | Mon–Sat 9am– 10.30pm; Sun 9am–9.30pm. Veg; Pre; BYOB (no charge); Kids; T/A. £7.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Around since 1960, the Bay Tree Café has a relaxed air to it, the walls and shelves decorated with various Arabian/ Mediterranean knick-knacks. If the décor evokes one region though, then the menu is far broader ranging. The breakfast menu is available all day, as are sandwiches, pasta dishes, and the café’s signature Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes. Meat-based mains include delicious grilled chicken or lamb dishes, like the Turkish lamb kebab mulukia cobeda. Despite the heavy presence of grilled meat dishes, Bay Tree Café’s previous role as a vegan-only café means there are still plenty of options for vegans and vegetarians. Indeed, the dessert menu even includes soya ice-cream. Whether you’re looking for a laid-back café or a more exotic restaurant, this is somewhere that will surely please. + Laid-back atmosphere - Extensive menu means some things may not be available

Berits & Brown

6 Wilson Street, Merchant City, G1 1SS (Map 7: C2, 12) 0141 552 6980, beritsandbrown.com | Mon–Wed 8am– 5pm; Thu 8am–8pm; Fri 8am–9.30pm; Sat 9am–9.30pm; Sun 10am–6.30pm.

Veg; Pre; BYOB (£6; must be purchased from shop); HW £13.99; Kids; Wh; T/A. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

In the heart of the merchant City, which is particularly good looking at night these days, Berits and Brown offers a small taste of a New York style neighbourhood diner. It is a big draw for wine buffs – any bottle on sale in the off license can be enjoyed with a meal for just a £6 surcharge. Soups – a favourite through the day for surrounding office workers – are always spot on. And careful sourcing from the likes of Ramsay the butcher, or Findlaters pates, means the food is the reliable. But it’s the laid back atmosphere rather than the food that makes this a great place to hang out. Staff are friendly, helpful and knowledgeable and it offers excellent value for money with set menus including wine. + Laid back, urban feel - Steak pie a little over pastried

Big Mouth Coffee Bar & Café

167 Dumbarton Road, West End, G11 6AA (Map 9: B3, 10) 0141 337 7023, bigmouthcoffeecompany.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–7pm; Sat 9am–6pm; Sun 10am–6pm. Veg; BYOB (£2, 50p beer); Kids; Wh; T/A. £4.95 (set lunch)

This casual café servicing Partick locals is nicely furnished and softly lit making it a comfortable spot for a coffee, breakfast or bite of lunch. A tender steak served in a warmed ciabatta is flavoured with a tangy mustard mayo and comes with a side salad and coleslaw. Other choices might include toasties, soup or a warming bowl of stovies served with oatcakes. At the deli counter there are seven or eight sponge cakes ranging from mocha chocolate to strawberry meringue. Its walls exhibit work from a local artist, changing every couple of months, while the toilets are bright and colourful showcasing the work of a local painter. The café’s welcoming community feel is furthered on the first Thursday of every month where a knitting and book group meet – at separate tables mind you. + Tasty steak sandwich - Stovies verging on soup

✱ Biscuit

17 Skirving Street, Southside, G41 3AB (Map 8: A4, 18) 0141 632 3466,

biscuitcafe.co.uk | Mon–Sat 9am– 5.30pm; Sun 10am–4.30pm. Veg; BYOB (£1.50, beer no charge); Kids; Wh; T/A. £5.95 (set lunch)

Biscuit’s pastry chef/owner has appeared on TV showing us how to bake some of the scrumptious sweet treats available here – and maybe she’ll share her recipe for a successful café too. Exceptional, creative cakes (including the ‘whoopie’ – dubbed the ‘new cupcake’) are what this place does best but there is plenty else to merit attention, not least of which is the consistently good coffee and the fact that it must be the only place in the Southside that has its own New Yorknative chef, hence the NYC slant in the savoury choices where, apart from salads, deli sandwiches, baked potatoes and even chip butties, there are bagels, burgers, a Texan chilli dog, New York Hot Dog and the Reuben – pastrami, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, gherkin and Russian dressing on toasted rye bread. The soups, which may be parsnip, honey and thyme or sweetcorn and chilli chowder, are among the most flavour-rich in the city and exemplify the high standards and attention to detail of the humble Biscuit. + Dependably good food and fab cakes - Music sometimes too esoteric

Black Poppy

47–49 Stonelaw Road, Rutherglen, Southside, G73 3TN (Map 8: E4, off) 0141 647 2979 | Sat–Wed 9am–4.30pm; Thu/Fri 9am–8pm; Closed Sun. Veg; HW £6.95/£9.95 ; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £4.95 (set lunch) / £6.50 (dinner)

The Black Poppy may not be the only café in the area to serve espresso but it must be unique in offering eight flavours of balsamic vinegar to accompany salads. It exudes community spirit and, as well as hosting events with local businesses – including dinner with massage, it boasts a mixed clientele: mums and toddlers, elderly, solo sippers and twentysomethings – perhaps listening to the local unsigned bands regularly given air-time on the stereo. The emphasis is firmly on home-grown. Apart from fabulous home-made soups and familymade cakes, there is (popular) beer from a Falkirk brewery, fresh pâtés and pies from Linlithgow – the gooey, flavoursome carrot, red onion and Dunsyre cheese is among the best, and the aforementioned

balsamic vinegar from Dalry. A 20-minute wait (normal with restaurant-standard food) for specials such as creamy parmesan risotto can be filled by perusing the range of wines, deli goodies, cards and gifts on display in this excellent eaterie-cum-deli shop. + The owners’ passion shows in every aspect - There aren’t more like it in Rutherglen

Black Sheep Bistro

10 Clarendon Street, West End, G20 7QD See Bistros & Brasseries

Bocadillo

569 Sauchiehall Street, West End, G3 7PQ (Map 9: H5, 91) 0141 221 0069, bocadillo.co.uk | Mon–Fri 7am–4pm; Sat 9am–4pm. Closed Sun. Veg; Kids; T/A. £4.95 (set lunch)

Just a block away from the M8 end of Sauchiehall Street, this smart sandwich bar is in the perfect location to service the requirements of local business folk looking for a quick bite – and by the number of suits grabbing rolls, salads and coffee it’s been discovered. With light flooding in the large window, lots of table space and some trim brown leather booths it’s certainly a spruce enough venue to invite prospective clients, with the entire space sparkling like it was opened yesterday. There’s a wide range of sandwiches, panini and fajita wraps. What strikes most is the value, as there’s little over £3 but most orders come with a generous portion of coleslaw, salad and nachos. Chicken and leek soup has a pleasing home-made feel despite the corporate-friendly environment. There are also more substantial seasonal specials, a takeaway menu and outside catering options too. + Business crowd know a good deal when they see it - Menu a little unadventurous

Brooklyn Café

21 Minard Road, Southside, G41 2HR (Map 8: A4, 15) 0141 632 3427 | Mon–Sat 8am–9pm; Sun 9am–9pm. Veg; BYOB (£2, 50p beer); Kids; T/A. £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

Year of Opening: 1931. This fact alone says so much about the obvious enduring appeal of Brooklyn Café. Generations of local custom must mean dramatic change is difficult but while crowdpleasers like the famous ice-cream remain (plus the many tempting desserts that revolve around it), menu specials vary with impressive regularity. On the main menu, Italian home-made favourites like risotto, pasta and the splendid freshly baked focaccia with sea salt and rosemary vie with classic greasy-spoon stalwarts such as steak pie, mince and tatties, baked potatoes and fish and chips. Full breakfasts and an extensive children’s menu appear to attract a lot of the clientele but the overall choice is so varied that there’s something to suit almost everyone. While not everything is spot on – the Hunter’s chicken comes with over-salted rice – there’s a great deal to enjoy here, including the sweet and spicy tomato soup – a very pleasantly fruity take on the standard favourite. Overall, a classic café. + Does what you’d expect it to do well, very well - Huge menu means some misses among the hits

Brown Sugar

48 Battlefield Road, Southside, G42 9QH (Map 8: D5, 26) 0141 237 9457 | Mon–Thu 8am–5pm; Fri 8am–4pm; Sat 9am–4pm. Closed Sun. Veg; Kids; T/A. £3.50 (set lunch)

Martha’s (page 137): this newcomer offers a range of tasty and healthy fast food prepared by proper chefs

Brown Sugar is bright and breezy and brings a welcome healthy glow to the

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Glasgow immediate vicinity where chain cafés and regular takeaways abound. Open for just four months (at the time of press), the young sibling owners insist that they are still ‘finding their feet’ and ‘trying out new things’ but their enthusiasm imbues the place with a cosy, welcoming feel already. For example, it’s care and attention to the little details that makes a good coffee, not just the quality of the beans. The menu is uncomplicated and consists of morning rolls, croissants, home-made cakes, sandwiches on a choice of seven types of bread and daily-changing soups. The Brown Sugar antipasto is focaccia filled with salami, prosciutto, mozzarella, tapenade, tomato, peppers and olives. The soup may be leek and potato, very blended but not bland. And it’s sweetly satisfying to be informed during some cake deliberation that the brownie is ‘freshly made. Yum! + Great use of natural light, and natural ingredients - Regulars no doubt wish it was bigger with more seats

Café Circa

322 Crow Road, West End, G11 7HS (Map 9: A1, off) 0141 334 2037 | Mon–Sun 9am–5pm. Veg; Kids; T/A; D. £9 (lunch)

Café Circa is a café with a twist as it also doubles up as a showroom and shop for various antiques and collectibles. If that leaves you picturing somewhere musty and dusty then you needn’t fear, it’s bright, airy, and welcoming. The retro theme does add a quirky touch to things though – as does the photo of a certain Mr David Gest’s visit. Breakfast, lunch, and snacks all offer a good choice. From the full plate of the all-day breakfast (including Stornoway pudding), to a £5.50 soup and sandwich deal, and not forgetting the scones which are freshly baked daily. A selection of Glasgow’s own Brewhaha teas are also available to wash it all down with. If you’re looking for tasty comfort food in relaxed surroundings – with a hint of vintage kitsch – then Café Circa certainly ticks all the boxes. + Relaxed ambience - The feeling of being watched by David Gest!

Café D’Jaconelli

570 Maryhill Road, West End, G20 7EE (Map 9: I1, off) 0141 946 1124 | Mon–Sun 9am–6pm. Veg; T/A. £6.50 (lunch)

Established in 1924, Café d’Jaconelli is the oldest surviving business on Maryhill Road and one of Glasgow’s oldest cafés. Not only that, it was also used as a location in the film Trainspotting and even in a music video for the band Blue Nile, too. Nestled close to Partick Thistle’s Firhill stadium, the café may still have a traditional look, but it’s well maintained with comfy red leather seating to sink into. The menu is unpretentious and good value, and combines classic Scottish fried treats like filled rolls and full breakfasts with a range of tempting Italian-inspired icecream sundaes, using the café’s own ice cream. The staff here are very friendly and helpful, and the owner James Evans is often to be found manning the kitchen himself. Jaconelli’s has a history and it’s certainly keeping true to it, but this iconic café still feels vibrant and as worth a visit for your stomach as for your eyes. The staff are friendly and owner James Evans is often to be found manning the kitchen himself. Jaconelli’s has a history and it’s certainly keeping true to it, but this iconic café still feels vibrant and as worth a visit for your stomach as for your eyes. + Great value and atmosphere - No customer toilets

Café Cherubini

360 Great Western Road, West End, G4 9HT (Map 9: H2, 74) 0141 334 8894, cafecherubini.com | Mon–Wed 9am–7pm; Thu–Sat 9am–midnight; Sun 10am–6pm. [Summer: Mon–Wed 9am–10pm]. Veg; HW £15.95; Kids; T/A. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Café Cherubini hovers pleasantly between between the feel of a café and a trattoria, offering Italian-inspired snacks and meals. The usual café items such as allday breakfasts, bacon rolls, and hearty baked potatoes with various tasty fillings are on offer, but pasta and antipasti also pop up to good effect. The star of the whole show, however, is the speciality home-made sausage, which can be enjoyed either as a main course or added to various dishes such as a pasta or baked potato. So good is this in-house prepared delicacy that it is also supplied to other local businesses such as nearby Mellis’ Cheesemongers and Chinaski’s bar/ restaurant. Cherubini also transforms into a cosy music venue on Thursday nights, when it hosts its own open-mic night. + Delicious sausage - Ivy decorations may be an acquired taste

Café Cosmo

Glasgow Film Theatre, 12 Rose Street, City Centre, G3 6RB See Arts Venues

Café Hula

321 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 3PT (Map 6: D2, 27) 0141 353 1660, cafehula. co.uk | Mon–Wed 8am–9pm; Thu–Sat 8am–10pm; Sun 11am–7pm. Veg; Pre; HW £13.50; Kids; T/A. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

It isn’t Morocco and it ain’t hot outside but somewhere just north of Sauchiehall St, time moves a bit more slowly. For a long, lingering coffee and some peoplewatching through the huge windows, this is ideal. But Hula does meals, too, and a loyal core of students, arty types, and theatre-goers has been enjoying homely dishes from an almost set-instone menu for just over a decade. Pasta (with changing sauces) is one such perennial but it can be very creamy and less than al dente. More typical of the offerings – which can include fish stew, burgers, tortilla or lamb casserole – is the Spanish chickpea and chorizo stew braised in a rich tomato sauce. The sauce is rich indeed, in fact rolling in flavour. This, like several of the choices, can be ordered as a main or tapas-sized portion. With a perfect location opposite the Theatre Royal and a beat away from the Conservatoire, pre-theatre can get very busy. + The quirky décor and the laid-back vibe - Unobtrusive service may appear indifferent

be forgotten either, the excellent full breakfast includes succulent sausage and bacon from local butcher Andrew Reid. All in all, you’ll enjoy popping into Pop. + Delicious cooked breakfast - Lack of customer toilets

Café Wander

• 110a West George Street, City Centre, G2 1QJ (Map 6: D3, 113) 0141 353 3968, cafewander.com | Mon–Fri 7.30am– 4.30pm; Sat 9am–5pm; Closed Sun. Veg; Kids; T/A. £6.50 (set lunch) • 1032 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8LX (Map 9: F6, off) 0141 572 0232, cafewander.com | Mon–Fri 8am–3.30pm; Sat 9am–3.30pm. Closed Sun. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A. £6.50 (set lunch)

First of all, it’d be easily done, but a shame to wander past Cafe Wander, situated as it is below street level. This basement cosiness, combined with friendly staff, give it a happy and relaxed vibe that’s quite unique. The hearty portions echo its big heart: panini are full to bursting and sandwiches substantial. The daily quiche is usually vegetarian and may be goat’s cheese and pumpkin – light and satisfying with a delicate pastry. Most of the sandwich, burger, jacket potato and cake choices don’t break new ground but black pudding croutons on pea and ham soup is a quirky touch that works. Salads (with a delicious dressing), smoothies and frappes fit in with the overall healthy tone. In short, a welcome relief from cafechain-ville and a comfortable refuge for the solo diner. Its sister venue – at street level this time – in Finnieston has fewer seats and a more limited menu. + Efficient service but relaxed atmosphere - More could be made of the space outside

Carrot Top’s Café

24 St Andrews St, Merchant City See Sandwich Bars feature in Cafés

Coffee, Chocolate and Tea

944 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8YJ (Map 9: G6, off) 0141 204 3161, coffeechocolateandtea.com | Mon–Wed 8am–4pm, Thu/Fri 8am–5pm, Sat 10am– 4pm, Sun Closed. Veg; T/A. £8 (lunch)

There’s a lot happening here and it’s all good. Owned by the MacCallum brothers of Troon fish fame, it was inspired by a visit to Paris where John was besotted by a café that had a working coffee roaster in the window. Thirty years later he acquired the impressive machine and opened his own coffee shop. The beans are bought in green from Brazil, Guatemala and El Salvador, sacks of which you’ll see piled around the shop. They’re roasted and sold whole, ground or in a chemex (a coffee drinking object of desire) ready to drink. There are 40 loose-leaf teas with a

✱ HITLIST CAFES ✱ An Clachan Proving an ethical, environmental, independent approach can still be a winner. ✱ Biscuit Here you can rely on consistently top-notch savoury dishes, great coffee and outstanding cakes. ✱ Cup Fantastic attention to detail for regular diners and those with dietary intolerances alike, blending elegance with a laid-back atmosphere. ✱ Eat Deli A decade of devotion to great food to eat in or take away means top deli indulgence. The new Shawlands café is about as good too. ✱ Gusto & Relish Unpretentious but truly satisfying thanks to the owner/chef’s passion. Somewhere you can imagine returning to again (and again). ✱ Kember & Jones Artisan homebaking and a Mediterranean feel combine to offer appealing taste, quality, and ambience. ✱ Martha’s It’s new and it’s exciting and it does fresh, interesting, healthy foods fast and better than most. Nowhere quite like it. ✱ Moyra Jane’s A café that morphs into a romantic, continental-style evening bistro but the food remains fab. ✱ Sonny & Vito’s Freshly prepared and delicious dishes in this charming deli-café.

Café Pop

657 Great Western Road, West End, G12 8RE (Map 9: E1, 54) 0141 339 3400 | Mon– Sat 8.30am–6pm; Sun 10am–4pm. Veg; T/A. £5.50 (set lunch)

The décor of the petite Café Pop may be inspired by 1960’s Kitsch but there remains a fresh and contemporary approach to both its food and atmosphere. Sandwiches use bread freshly baked daily by local producers, and it’s the same with the array of tempting cakes from West End craft bakers, the Flamingo Bakery. The mocha cupcakes are a particular treat. Even with the artisan touches, there’s still a desire to keep things affordable. A soup and sandwich deal is £4.50 for takeaway or £5.50 to sit in, and there’s the recent introduction of a 20 per cent off deal for students on Tuesdays. For customers chained to desks, there’s now a bulk-delivery service for workplaces and the like. Café Pop’s breakfasts shouldn’t The List Eating & Drinking Guide 133

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Glasgow g

GLASGOW

SANDWICH BARS [Another] Piece

387 Great Western Road, West End, G4 9HY (Map 9: G2, 125) 0141 334 9697, laucknerandmoore.com | Mon–Fri 9am–3pm. Closed Sat/Sun [subject to change].

get messy real quick. There are also panini, baguettes, wraps, soups, and fresh juices and smoothies, though most opt for the treat with the hole in the middle.

Il Cappuccino

491 Great Western Road, West End, G12 8HL (Map 9: F2, 59) 0141 337 3001 | Mon–Sat 7.30am–6pm; Sun 10am–6pm.

Sandwich virtuosos Tom Lauckner and John Moore’s Kelvinbridge outlet (a companion piece, if you will) increases your chances of grabbing a justifiably popular gourmet piece. There are only a few of chairs here, less if it is raining, but the extra kitchen space is the ideal testbed for more of Piece’s deli creations. There are ‘off-the-peg’ pieces – such as the Surf and Turf with beef and sweet chilli prawns or Ham Old Skool with roast ham, hand-cut slaw and basil mayo – or a ‘made-to-measure piece’ where you DIY, you can be sure of the dedication to sourcing and devising topquality fillings, from roasting the meats in-house to making all the chutneys, relishes and mayonnaises.

Bagel Mania

338 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3JD (Map 6: B2, 12) 0141 332 7358 | Mon– Wed 7am–7pm; Thu–Sat 7am–9pm; Sun 9am–5.30pm.

The distinctive wood façade of the enduring Il Cappuccino hides a y cornucopia of deli delights and quality sandwiches. Wraps, pitta pockets, various fresh-tasting breads and rolls can be filled according to individual taste, or pick from the dozen or so wittily named specials – such as the Clatty Pat (referring to the once gra legendary local disco), or Niagra Viagra e). (chorizo, gouda and spicy mayonnaise). Breakfast choices range from the m upmarket – smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel – to crowd-pleasing rollss with bacon or square sausage. There’s good coffee too, and deli produce to take away.

Carrot Top’s Café

24 St Andrews St, Merchant City, G1 5DP (Map 7: C3, 43) 0141 552 9333, carrottopscafe.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am– 4pm; Sat/Sun 10am–3pm.

Stonking baps filled with great combos such as grilled Mediterranean veg and cream cheese or salami and sweet chilli. The soup and sandwich deal £4.95 is a bargain. There are at least two freshly made soups each day – time it right and it is whizzed up in front of your eyes. These are never dull and might include spicy carrot and coconut, mulligatawny or red pepper so it is perfect for comfort food in winter, but better still in summer when strolls beckon. Its location is key so grab a sanga and sit in St Andrews in the Square, or venture on to nearby Glasgow Green to admire the Doulton Fountain before heading in to the People’s Palace.

Cherry and Heather Fine Foods

7 North Gower Street, Southside, G51 1PW (Map 8: C1, off) 0141 427 0272, cherryandheather.co.uk | Mon–Fri 10am–5pm. Closed Sat/Sun.

For bagel fans this small café is the holy of holies, offering an array of flavoured bagels and enticing fillings with a heavy US accent. Things start early with allday morning bagels featuring smoked salmon, eggs, bacon and such like. The main menu ranges from the ‘everyday’ bagels such as bacon and cream cheese or ham salad to the ‘premier’ ones featuring the likes of the hefty New York pastrami deluxe, packed with peppered beef, gherkins, onion and cheese. Copious fillings mean that anything with coleslaw or any sauce is going to

An oasis of fine, healthy foods with a touch of style and Asian flavour in the heart of Cessnock. No doubt a magnet for local office workers (and hotel residents a hop across the river) who would otherwise have to travel a lot farther to find always-vegan soups, fresh sushi, sandwiches (such as kaffir lime and lemongrass chicken or chunky butternut squash and pesto) and tarts from Tapa bakehouse, who also provide the bread. There are even a few seats for lingering – and savouring – purposes. Like many takeaways which peak during lunch hours, freshness and energy dips towards closing-time.

Crêpe à Croissant

1 Ashley Street, West End, G3 6HB (Map 9: H4, 81) 07720 330 471, crepe.org.uk | Mon–Thu 8am–10pm; Fri 8am–4am; Sat 10am–4am. Closed Sun.

Crêpe à Croissant has four sit-in cafés dotted around, but their spiritual home is the static van on Woodlands Road. They do do normal sandwiches, baguettes and wraps, but it’s the crêpes – made fresh on specially imported pans and by trained staff – which top the bill. Savoury crêpes for carnivores include such alliterative delights as radical roast (roast beef, mustard and cheese), tantalizing tikka and perfect pesto (chicken pesto with emmental) or, for veggies, there is the fabulous feta or ravishing ratatouille. The sweet crêpes are pure danger and include banana chocolate dream – smeared with nutella, nuts and cream – or cupid’s cup, filled with After Eights, cream, crème de menthe and flaked almonds.

La Tea Doh

136 Nithsdale Road, Southside, G41 5RB (Map 8: C1, 2) 0141 424 3224, lateadoh.co.uk | Mon/Tue 8.30am– 5pm; Wed–Sat 8.30am–6pm; Closed Sun.

In a world without supermarkets, La Tea Doh would be just the sort of local one-stop café/shop to visit daily . . . and indulge in a sugary treat too. Among the other groceries (including an impressive tea selection), deli treats and organic goodies, they even sell eco-friendly cleaning products as well as a range of cards and gifts. If not choosing ‘to go’, then perch at the window or sit outside to enjoy sandwiches on four types of bread or a coffee (from Brodies of Edinburgh) and a home-made sponge. Bargain alert: a small tea (from a choice of nine) to take away is only £1.

1901 Deli

11 Skirving Street, Southside, G41 3AB (Map 8: A4, 17) 0141 632 1630, deli1901.co.uk | Mon–Sat 9am–7pm; Sun 10am–6pm.

This is a foodie’s treasure trove of global goodies and local delights. While waiting to choose from a tempting lunch menu of soups, salads, sandwiches and hot dishes, it’s impossible to resist a look round and be dazzled by such an excellent range of wines and groceries, ranging from Arran oatcakes to Amatller chocolates.

Perch at the window to enjoy their ownblend coffee and award-winning sweet delights (the melt-in-the mouth chocolate soufflé cake uses high-quality Callebaut chocolate) or opt instead for a gourmet sandwich, salmon pesto en-croute or beef Guinness and mushroom pie to take out.

Smoak

61 Old Dumbarton Road, West End, G3 8RF (Map 9: D5, 131) 07580 414621, smoakfood.co.uk | Mon–Fri 7.30am– 3pm; Sat 9.30 am–3pm. Closed Sun.

Smoak specialises in hot sandwiches of the very meaty kind with a strong Tex-Mex slant in the preparation and flavours. The brisket of beef is given a spicy Texan rub including mustard, smoked paprika and chillies, then slowroasted for hours to melting delight, served up in a ciabatta roll with a tangy red pepper mojo. The pork shoulder is a winner too, with robust herbs and garlic, with perfect crackling and home-made apple sauce. There are daily soups and standard sandwiches too – but it’s hard to see past the specialities, given the odd twist such as brisket and haggis when Scotland are playing football. Watch out for the Smoak van at festivals etc, and the planned Man vs Food-style events.

Taste

240 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3EQ (Map 6: C2, 21) 0141 331 0866 | Mon–Wed 7.30am–4pm; Thu–Sat 9am– 4pm. Closed Sun.

Former Nobu and Ivy sous-chef Nick MacIntyre has got big plans for his sandwich bar and al fresco café on Sauchiehall Street’s pedestrianised stretch. Not that it particularly needs changing. Since opening in 2011 people have been flocking here like the nearby pigeons for a top-quality roast beef baguette with home-made horseradish sauce or a burrito – packed out with a good, meaty chilli rather than the usual rice and beans – or one of the various, more standard sandwiches. Plans are well underway to have hogs roasting for dishing out hot pork sandwiches, as well as a pop-up seafood bar serving City Centre revellers until almost dawn.

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In association with

Glasgow detailed menu explaining flavour and best brewing techniques. The knowledgeable, passionate staff have turned their hand to making a seasonally changing range of chocolates, current favourites include Heather Ale, apple brûlée and salt caramels – ready to take away or enjoy after one of their sandwiches from a small selection. Aim to visit on roasting day for the full effect. + Coffee from green bean to cup - Perching on stools

Coia’s Café

473–477 Duke Street, East End, G31 1RD See Italian

72 Nithsdale Road, Southside, G41 2AN See Bistros & Brasseries

Cranachan

Unit 51, Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre, G1 3JN (Map 6: D4, 77) 0141 248 6257, cranachancafe.co.uk | Sun–Wed 9am–5pm; Thu–Sat 9am–8pm. HW £15.45; Kids; Wh; T/A. £13.50 (lunch)

Creamy Cranachan. If a place can be judged on its signature dish then Cranachan is sweet and indulgent, perhaps lacking in a few ingredients. The theme is overall Scottish with quality, locally sourced fish, beef and cheese aplenty, which comes in various guises including platters to share. The goat’s cheese and roasted pepper terrine starter is satisfyingly gooey, but the haddock and chips is a little bland. Diners can also opt for the thick-cut sandwiches – fillings range from egg mayonnaise to Royal Scotch beef with beetroot, red onion and horseradish mayonnaise – or decadent afternoon tea with all the trimmimgs and served with pink prosecco, for a particularly pleasant linger on the Square’s Terrace. The drinks menu here is as long as the food list so considering the opening times, Cranachan should come with a health warning. + Mainly locally sourced Scottish - Lack of meal deals

traditional black, green, and oolong varieties. The second thing to mention is that this isn’t a tearoom in any stuffy or outdated sense of the word, rather it’s a contemporary and indulgent take on the genre. Stylish but relaxing surroundings complement a menu offering a luxuriant range of cupcakes, as well as Cup’s piece de resistance: their stunningly enjoyable afternoon tea – £12.95 brings you a stand offering sandwiches, scone, and a selection of cakes, as well as your choice of tea. Those with dietary intolerances aren’t forgotten about either, all Cup’s sandwiches are available on gluten-free bread, and with advance notice they can provide a full GF afternoon tea. For quality of food and dining experience, this Cup runneth over. A second branch at 71 Renfield Street is due to open in late April 2012, with the promise of the usual tea and cupcakes but also additional late-night indulgences for City Centre folk, ranging from a choice of 30 desserts and various cocktails to a delightfully dangerous-sounding three-course dessert menu. + Afternoon tea - both standard and gluten-free - Popularity means can be limits on table time

Cushion & Cake

35 Old Dumbarton Road, West End, G3 8RD (Map 9: D5, 132) 0141 339 4114, cushionandcake.com | Tue–Sat 10.30am– 5pm; Sun noon–4.30pm. Closed Mon. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A. £5.50 (set lunch)

From the enticing window decoration with its hanging birdcages wrapped in silk bows, to the colourful arts and crafts work from local and UK designers that fill the walls, there’s little doubt this attractive little café will appeal to the aesthetic in all of us and even more so to the handicraft enthusiast. The owner’s personal collection of vintage crockery are in use, which adds an elegant touch to a simple smoked salmon sandwich or a heartier ploughman’s platter. Bone china never looks better than with a slice of cake and there’s usually five hand-made ones on

offer from the classic Victoria sponge, and chocolate brownies to flourless and gluten-free. On the last Sunday of every month ‘Crafternoon’ sessions run when a new skill is learned alongside tea and cakes, where you might sew a bag – handy to take home a tasty meringue. + Pretty spot with good selection of independent crafts - Can’t imagine many ploughmen visiting

Eat Café

69 Kilmarnock Road, Southside, G41 3YR (Map 8: A5, 28) 0141 649 6705, eatdeli.co.uk | Mon–Wed 9am–9pm; Thu–Sat 9am–10pm; Sun 10am–9pm. Veg; Pre; BYOB (£1, 50p beer); Kids; Wh; T/A. £13 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Opened in autumn 2011, this expansion of the highly rated eat deli into ‘Southside central’ is a relaxing day-time café/ evening bistro that hasn’t taken long to find its feet – nor its fan base judging by the eager lunchers who come in for a coffee and cake, a takeaway or a proper sit-down meal. The breakfast and brunch menus are available till 5pm if the sandwiches, salads and mains such as the spaghetti with braised pork and fennel ragu don’t grab – the sauce in this dish has happily more than a hint of the much neglected vegetable. If feeling guilty after succumbing to the temptations of dessert or cake, a glance at the menu note regarding the freshness and sustainability of the ingredients will help re-polish the halo. The fact they offer discerning Italians’ favourite mineral water (Ferrarelle) is enough of a sign that quality resides here. + Quality of ingredients - Quality comes at a price

✱ Eat Deli

16 Busby Rd, Clarkston, Southside, G76 7BG (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 638 7123, eat-deli.co.uk | Mon–Thu 8am–6pm; Fri 8am–7pm; Sun 8am–6pm. Veg; BYOB (£1); Kids; T/A. £10 (lunch)

The rather prosaic name gives no indication of the high quality of food served and on sale here. Bei & Nannini

Cranberry’s

30 Wilson Street, Merchant City, G1 1SS (Map 7: C2, 10) 0141 552 3676 | Sun–Fri 9am–5.30pm; Sat 9am–6pm. Veg; HW £13.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

One of the best things about whiling away an afternoon in Cranberry’s is that its huge, clean, picture windows mean that it’s a great place to admire some of the highlights of the Merchant City’s architecture. But there are other good things as well – the cakes for instance. There’s a specials board just for them – ranging from poppy seed and pear and almond tart to chocolate fudge cake. The lively staff in this independently run café cook up soups and quiches daily so nothing is ever less than fresh. And there is an astute chef’s imagination at work in the small kitchen – courgette and lemon soup that works a treat, and Nutella incorporated into a pear tart for an added surprise. It is often packed at lunchtime but later on in the afternoon you can relax over a hot chocolate without any fear of clock watching from waiting staff. + Thoughtful recipes - Can be full of lunching ladies

Fifi and Ally

51–52 Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre, G1 3JN (Map 6: D4, 77) 0141 229 0386, fifiandally.com | Mon– Wed 9.30am–4.30pm; Thu–Sat 9.30am– 9.30pm; Sun 11am–4.30pm. Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £7.50 (set lunch) / £11.50 (dinner)

Fifi and Ally may have a reputation as a girly cup-cake café but its coffee is strong, rich and memorable and their menu reveals a deep source of local produce and home-made delicacies. The warm chèvre salad with beetroot and butternut squash (one of only three hot dishes on the menu) is a stack of light, pleasant indulgence served with a surround of rocket. A real stand-out is the warm, fondant-like milk chocolate brownie: with white chocolate pieces, cut into oblong slices that melt in the mouth, it is served with delicious Thorntonhall ice-cream. If the Big Afternoon Tea with or without champagne sounds too much, there are sandwiches, salads, side dishes (such as cucumber and salami bites) and substantial open boards that include the Celtic (salmon, venison, beef carpaccio and cheese), rustic Italian and the enticing Moroccan. Look out too for the twice-

✱ Cup

D = Delivery.

311 Byres Road, West End, G12 8UQ (Map 9: D1, 23) 0141 357 2525, cupglasgow.co.uk | 10am–6pm 7 days. Veg; BYOB (£2 pp); Kids; Wh; T/A. £9 (lunch)

The first thing to mention about Cup is that it’s a tearoom rather than a café, offering a wide range of speciality teas and infusions that add twists to the

coffee, Ferrarelle mineral water, Suki fair-trade tea and Stornoway black pudding are just a few of the superior brands. There’s clearly a lot of taste and experience involved in the set-up, which has crammed in eager customers for a decade. Table space is tight but there’s a ‘grazing shelf’ at the window beside the busy deli/takeaway counter. Soup may be the successful sweet potato and coconut or French onion. Portions are very generous and the linguine with chicken, chorizo, plum tomatoes and olive oil is satiating – although there is plenty more chicken and oil than chorizo and tomato. Still, the menu of delicious platters, salads, mains and sandwiches includes such ‘cut above’ combos as goat’s cheese and artichoke bruschetta that it’s hard to quibble – and then the wonderful cakes leave one so speechless it’s impossible to. Watch out for possible later night opening this summer – more chance to experience this excellent eaterie. + Top-notch bread - Can overflow at peak times

Price in bold = Average cost of a two-course evening meal for one. The price of a set lunch is shown; otherwise we show the average cost of a two-course lunch for one. Roots and Fruits (page 138): sit in and enjoy excellent deli treats

For full explanations see page 4.

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Glasgow monthly cheese-tasting evenings. + The excellent coffee is worth the visit alone - Service should be more consistent at these prices

The Flavour Co

517a Great Western Road, West End, G12 8HN (Map 9: F2, 57) 0141 339 5967, flavourshop.co.uk | Mon–Sat 8.45am– 4pm. Closed Sun. Veg; T/A; D. £4.50 (lunch)

Owner and manager Natalie Minnis’ petite juice bar may only have six seats but what it lacks in size it makes up for in quality and charm. All of the tasty smoothies from their extensive range are made to order, and even the juices that they have at their base have been freshly squeezed. As well as the fruit choices that you’d expect, there are options including the more savoury tangs of avocado, beetroot, carrot, celery, and cucumber. Those with a sweet tooth aren’t forgotten though, being catered for with an array of delicious milkshake choices made with fresh fruit and ice cream. While primarily a juice bar, a range of wraps, toasties, and panini are available, along with various cakes and cookies. + Freshly made smoothies - Can feel a little claustrophobic

Fressh

51–53 Cochrane Street, Merchant City, Merchant City, G1 1HL (Map 7: B1, 4) 0141 552 5711, fresshglasgow.com | Mon–Fri 7am–3pm. Closed Sat/Sun. T/A. £5.95 (set lunch)

Fressh is just off George Square, and a refreshing antidote to some of the big commerical outfits in the area. It serves a limited menu but does it very well. Soups are always excellent, and the sandwich

fillings are fresh and colourful if a little unadventurous. A particular favourite is the pastry-less mini-quiche which suits the gluten-free and any remaining Atkins diet fans. Cakes are variable. The homemade fare is excellent but like so many places it travels the rocky road of boughtin tray bakes. The bright, contemporary space with effective and budget-conscious décor often has queues at lunchtime as it is popular with Glasgow City Council employees – it is satisfying to see that public money is not all being blown on lavish expense account lunches. + Fressh flavours - Not all cakes home-made

Go Slow Café

452 Victoria Road, Southside, G42 8YU (Map 8: E2, 9) 0141 423 9886, goslowcafe. co.uk | Tue–Sat 10am–5pm. Closed Sun/ Mon. Veg; BYOB (£1 pp); Kids; T/A. £9 (lunch)

Six years of taking it easy at Go Slow Café (to paraphrase the blurb), but the place is thriving and popular, so it’s no mean feat that during the busiest times owner/factotum Rose manages to keep the happy, calm vibe alive. Like most places run with passion, the atmosphere is one of at-home cosiness: tables and chairs are quirkily mismatched and everything from the budget décor to the booking-essential theme nights exudes an air of Bohemia. The menu is a mix of the standard: all-day breakfast (rolls, toast, croissants, bagels), panini, toasties, soup, burgers and the like; and then the surprises: exceptional home-made bread, rather perfect sweet chilli quesadillas served with a beautifully dressed and generous side-salad and a left-field ‘lasagne’ daily special that manages to convince taste-wise despite lacking previously assumed essentials

like square sheets of pasta and cheese. Tip: expect the unexpected, relax about it and enjoy. + Leave your cynic’s hat at the door - Can be a squeeze at peak periods

✱ Gusto & Relish

729–731 Pollokshaws Road, Southside, G41 2AA (Map 8: C2, 12) 0141 4241233, gustoandrelish.com | Mon–Fri 9am–6pm; Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 10.30am–5pm. Veg; BYOB (£3, 50p beer); Kids; T/A; D. £9 (lunch)

You may not want to leave afterwards but the half-hour walk back into town (for City Centre dwellers) is recommended to burn off the calories. That’s because the food here is moreish in the extreme – and that’s not just the mountainous meringues. The emphasis is on home-made with owner and chef/baker Iain providing an all-day menu that comprises brunch – including eggs royale with salmon, multi cheddar and cream, eggs Florentine and a popular full breakfast featuring free-range, rare-breed pork sausages, also soups, door-stop sandwiches, salads and light mains, including the gratin dauphinois-style potato, celeriac and onion bake that is creamy, tasty and perfectly proportioned, a sausage hotpot served with crusty bread or hot smoked mackerel and potato with crème-fraîche horseradish. There is an emphasis on quality meats and ethically sourced, local ingredients but it’s the passion behind the great produce that makes Gusto and Relish really stand out. + Home-made and heavenly - Having to leave

Heart Buchanan

380 Byres Road, West End, G12 8AR (Map 9: D1, 48) 0141 339 4166, heartbuchanan.co.uk | Mon–Sat 9am– 4pm; Sun 10am–6pm. Veg; T/A. £12 (lunch)

This popular Byres Road deli-café may need to install revolving doors for the owners, having changed hands in late 2011 and due again at the time of this visit. None of that upheaval seems to have dimmed its ability to provide delicious food with an artisan feel. Always known for its lunches, the breakfasts are also good. The brioche French toast with bacon and maple syrup feels decadent in taste as well as calorific content, while the eggs Benedict with salmon boasts impressive chunks of fish in a portion that would satisfy the sturdiest of diners. Those with a sweet tooth won’t miss out here either with a selection of tarts made by Ayrshire firm Proof is in the Pudding that are as pleasing on the tongue as on the eye. The lunch menu changes daily and the café also does a takeaway meal deal of sandwich, drink and crisps for just shy of a fiver. + Eye-catching cakes - Wee enough to feel like you have to watch your elbows

The Hidden Lane Tearoom

8 Argyle Court, 1103 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8ND See Arts Venues

The Hyndland Café

96 Clarence Drive, West End, G12 9RN (Map 9: A1, off) 0141 334 2719, thehyndlandcafe.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am– 5pm; Sat 8.30am–5pm; Sun 9.30am–5pm. Veg; T/A; D. £7 (lunch)

Hyndland Café is the kind of local café that could entice you to move if you’re not already within its reach. This is the classic all-day-breakfast diner but done with charm, a cosy ambience, and a welcome streak of individuality. It’s hard not to feel snug while sitting in one of the wooden booths and contemplating a menu packed full of hearty fare involving

the classic bacon, egg, and black pudding options. Sandwiches, burgers, lasagne, and macaroni cheese are also on offer for those who’ve managed to snap out of morning mode. At weekends the café offers a delivery service for customers nursing hangovers – a rescue service that even comes complete with a sachet of Resolve. This loving, considerate attitude comes through in the baking too, with cakes freshly baked daily by lead chef Amanda Cooper and also available to order. + Cosy atmosphere - Hard to get a seat at weekends

iKafe

138 Nithsdale Road, Southside, G41 5RB (Map 8: C1, 1) 0141 423 8128, ikafe.co.uk | Mon–Sat 9am–10pm; Sun 11am–5pm. Veg; HW £12.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £10 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Ikafe has been popular with Southsiders for over a decade now, and seems to remain so all day long. The menu is extensive and although the choices can sometimes be predictable, the place has a character that is anything but. Certain sweet and savoury surprises testify to this – in particular the soup/goat’s cheese or Greek salad combo and the take-youback-to-childhood desserts – but above all it’s the agreeable twin personality of breakfast/lunchtime brightness and evening candle-lit moodiness that captivates. Round-the-world classics like pasta arrabbiata, fajitas, beef and courgette tagine and tempting fish and meat dishes (such as spicy lime and spinach chicken with buttered coriander potatoes) vie for prominence and there are 18 ‘little plates’ post 5pm so making a choice can be difficult. The quality is there for the most part (though the fieriness of the kofta will be too much for some) and the coffee and desserts are true winners. + Menu and ambience are very appealing - A tortilla wrap isn’t a flatbread

Jelly Hill Cafe/Bar

195 Hyndland Road, West End, G12 9HT (Map 9: A1, 2) 0141 341 0125, jellyhill.com | Mon–Wed 8am–10pm; Thu–Sat 8am– midnight; Sun 8am–8pm. Veg; HW £12.50; T/A. £9 (lunch) / £9 (dinner)

It’s been ten years since Jelly Hill opened, but it still feels that little bit different and innovative. The relaxed ambience is somewhere between a café and a bar, giving it a pleasing continental vibe. The friendly and efficient staff are encouraged to get to know the customers, and the idea of becoming a regular in here is certainly a tempting one. The food is what you’d need and want from a café, from the expected sandwiches, to attractive platters of meat or cheese that hit all the right spots on the tastebuds. The fresh, thick and tasty soup shouldn’t be forgotten either. The wine selection is chosen by a local off-licence and regular tastings are held in the café. Is it a local? Is it a café? Is it something else entirely? Whatever it is, you’ll want to go back. + Relaxed and relaxing atmosphere - Could fill up easily

KG Café

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, Kelvingrove Park, Argyle Street, West End, G3 8AG See Arts Venues

✱ Kember & Jones Fine Food Emporium 134 Byres Road, West End, G12 8TD (Map 9: C2, 26) 07717 828930, kemberandjones.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am– 10pm; Sat 9am–10pm; Sun 9am–6pm. Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £13 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

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Glasgow Situated in the heart of foodie West End on Byres Road, Kember & Jones is an upmarket café-deli with a good line in kitchenware and books too, with an interior that manages that elusive blend of elegant and cosy. The menu mixes the contemporary with the traditional, offering a range of top-end breakfasts, snacks and light meals, plus a decent wine and continental beer list. Bread and cakes are baked freshly on the premises, and even the pesto that accompanies the groaning platters of fabulous cured meats and continental cheeses has been prepared in the kitchen – all of it clearly by deft hands with a picky attention to detail. That artisan touch extends to their coffee, with their own blend of Arabica beans being roasted weekly for customers looking for either an immediate caffeine hit or to buy and take away. It’s not just the coffee that can be enjoyed beyond the emporium, they also offer an outside catering service. + Freshly home-baked bread - Jealous celiac dining partner

and egg bagels and porridge. For lunch, there’s an extensive selection panini, bagels, wraps, salads and omelettes all freshly prepared at the counter, though the menu may extend to main course-style specials such as a lamb burger with fries. Mimi’s is licensed, so it’s good for a lazy lunch with a cheeky glass of wine or beer, and well set for offering evening bistro dining. [Not recently visited.]

Mise en Place

122–124 Nithsdale Rd, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

✱ Moyra Jane’s

20 Kildrostan Street, Southside, G41 4LU (Map 8: C1, 4) 0141 423 5628, moyrajanes. co.uk | Mon 9am–4.30pm; Tue–Sat 9am– 9pm; Sun 10am–4.30pm. HW £13.45; Kids; T/A. £5.95 (set lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

LUV Café

1121 Govan Road, Southside, G51 4RX (Map 9: A6, off) 0141 445 0200, luvcafe. co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–3pm; Closed Sat/ Sun. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A. £4.30 (set lunch)

There’s plenty to love about LUV Café. Linthouse Urban Village is a regeneration scheme involving local people in various worthy projects, all community-based. What also sets this café apart though is its physical appearance – its angle location on a main road with outside tables facing a park brings to mind Parisian bistros, while inside unique wood-carved tables and locally made heart-shaped mirrrors are striking features. In short, it’s worth supporting and won’t cost a pretty penny to do so – a soup (which may be a delicious mushroom) and a sandwich served with coleslaw and dressed salad with a choice of three breads or the unusual ‘tasca’ – a cross between a ciabatta and a cheesy toastie – costs just £4.30. Fillings include balsamic roast vegetables with mozzarella and tuna melt with red onion. Finish off with a fine coffee and home-made cake and you’ll feel good inside in more ways than one. + Not just an admirable project - healthy food and great location too - Early closing time

La Tea Doh

136 Nithsdale Road, Southside, G41 5RB See Sandwich Bars feature in Cafés

Laurie’s

127 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 6PE (Map 6: C3, 62) 0141 222 2076, lauriescoffee.com | Mon–Fri 7.30am– 6pm; Sat 9.30am–5pm. Closed Sun. Kids; Wh; T/A. £5.85 (set lunch)

With its no-nonsense décor and variousshades-of-beige colour scheme, Laurie’s may at first sight seem a functional place for busy office workers to grab a routine filled roll. Closer inspection reveals its creative side, however: the sandwiches, whether sourdough, baguettes, panini or focaccia, all boast inventive names like Man from La Mancha – chicken, chorizo, roast peppers and mozzarella, and Blazing Saddles – a spicy and filling combination of meatballs, mozzarella, jalapeños and barbecue sauce, and a dazzling array of cakes, baked fresh every day, sit seductively near the window. Although flair is the exception here, that’s no bad thing: in a transient café world where great places often close or go downhill quickly, reliability is a key ingredient. The coffee is another solid performer and is served in normal-sized cups instead of half-litre bowls. Above-average quality, decent prices, a bit of flair but, above all,

No1 Chocolate Factory (page 138): afternoon tea and fun for kids

consistency. + Solid but not boring - Décor could be made as delectable as the cakes

The Little Café

1361 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8AF (Map 9: D5, 120) 0141 337 2068, thelittlecafe.co.uk | Mon–Fri 9am–9pm; Sat 10am–6pm; Sun 10am–6pm. Veg; BYOB (£3); Kids; Wh; T/A. £4.95 (set lunch) / £10 (dinner)

With its smart interior of attractive polished wood and shiny white tiles, only the neatly stacked packets of pasta and tins of plum tomatoes gives any clue to the fact that the Little Café is actually a little Italian café – and good it is, too. The menu is a simple enough affair of panini and freshly baked pizzas with half a dozen side dishes. The crispy stone-baked chicken and mushroom pizza is a fine size, enhanced with a tasty addition of rocket leaves and pesto. Adding a bowl of large juicy olives makes for a satisfying lunch. A lighter choice might include a mozzarella salad and focaccia topped with sea salt and rosemary. Popular with the kids is a little pizza (not that little) and at only £1.99, a steal. Overlooking Kelvingrove Museum, the café may be little but the view is certainly big. + Light, thin, crisp pizza - May have to wait at busy times

✱ Martha’s

142a St Vincent Street, City Centre, G2 5LQ (Map 6: C3, 105) 0141 248 9771, mymarthas.co.uk | Mon–Fri 7.30am– 6.30pm. Closed Sat/Sun. Kids; Wh; T/A. £7 (lunch)

Goodness, in a word. Created with care and calculation (there is an in-house nutritionist) by real chefs at this utilitarian

but nicely designed café, Martha’s moreish menu proves to the as-yet unconverted that healthy can mean hearty and tasty, not to mention locally sourced and environmentally considerate (the packaging is Vegware – all compostable). The seasonal menu includes everything from breakfast options like porridge and home-made Lorne sausage to traditional favourites like mince and tatties or slowroast red dragon free-range pork with Asian spices, served with brown rice and the delicious Martha’s ‘slaw’to take-away standards with a twist like salads and sandwiches made with focaccia baked on the premises or flatbread. Locally sourced fish, meat, vegetables and dairy are used where possible and everything from the soups to the devilish chocolate pots make the customer feel spoiled. + A breath of fresh air - There isn’t one on every corner (yet)

Mimi’s Kitchen

93–97 St George’s Road, City Centre, G3 6JA (Map 9: I4, 85) 0141 237 4515, mimiskitchen.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–4pm; Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 10am–3pm [subject to change]. Veg; HW £9.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £7.50 (lunch)

Mimi’s is a popular Charing Cross spot for breakfast, lunches and takeaways for office workers, students and shoppers alike. Named after Scots-Italian owner Franca Collins’s grandmother – plus her dog and daughter too – it’s spacious, bright and airy, and has undergone a spruce-up recently to bring the look more in line with imminent plans to open a few evenings a week offering more of a bistro menu including the likes of pizzas and risottos. During the day, breakfast options range from fry-ups and rolls to bacon

Its rather twee name remains but this established café located in a wonderful old corner bank building – all dark wood panels and round marble tables – was recently transformed by new owners into the perfect low-lit night-time Parisianstyle bistro (while cleverly maintaining the community café mood during daylight hours). The extensive menu comprises all-day breakfasts including fabulous eggs Benedict and Florentine, sandwiches on various breads, wraps or bagels, baked potatoes (try the five bean vegetable chilli, cheese and crème fraîche) and the ‘serious dining’ options. The starters have a Scottish flavour: Cullen skink, smoked salmon pâté, Orkney black (or white) pudding, Arbroath smokie ramekin but it’s global for the mains, from pesto pasta and Thai red chicken to lamb tagine and chicken and chorizo stew. All are beautifully presented, sensibly portioned and deeply satisfying. Cakes are homemade locally, so sweet rivals savoury for gourmet gratification. + First impressions count: the garlic bread sets standards high - Can the name be changed to suit evening dining?

TIPList FOR BREAKFAST • The Bay Tree Café All-day full options include vegan, meaty and Arabian 132 • Café Gandolﬁ Enticing range of creative egg dishes 124 • Café D’Jaconelli Oldschool breakfasts in a superb interior 133 • Cookie Settle back with a Stornoway Tower 125 • The Hyndland Café Outstanding local café brings brekkie to you 136 • Stravaigin Café Bar Legendary breakfasts at the swankier end 130 • Tapa Home-made bakes hit the spot 139, 171 • Tribeca Wake up US style at this top café 130

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Glasgow Naked Soup

6 Kersland Street, West End, G12 8BL (Map 9: E1, 52) 0141 334 8999, nakedsoup.com | Mon–Fri 8am–5pm; Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 10am–5pm. Veg; Wh; T/A. £4.95 (set lunch)

TABLE Talk : PAUL SMITH ON COMMUNITY I got my first job in the catering industry as a dishwasher in a café off Byres Road. I had attempted a number of 9-to-5 jobs but found that I struggled with the commitments of also being a musician in my early 20s and all the extracurricular activities that involved. I wouldn’t have described my previous job doing data entry at the Criminal Injuries Compensation Board as the most musically creative place in town either. Once, after a particularly boozy early afternoon band ‘meeting’ at the old, original 13th Note on Glassford Street, the owner Craig Tannock offered me a job. The 13th note was an entirely new world to me. It felt like its own selfcontained world of idealism, music, art and food. I’d never met so many creative, talented and genuinely interesting people in one place . . . what was more, the clientele appeared to feel a strong sense of shared ownership in the vision. It felt like a community, in the most positive sense. As I graduated from dishwasher to barman I came to see that a community engaged café-bar can be one of the most creative environments you could ever choose to work in. I’ve worked with writers, artists, filmmakers and, of course, far too many musicians. Most of my strongest friendships have come from my work. These days, being in a position to help and encourage artists, if only through a job, feels good. But what we strive for is to support an environment from where (an artistic) community can thrive. Living in this era that we do, of unimaginable greed, corruption, war and economic failure, the idea of community, wherever you can find it, feels like a pretty good thing. ■ Paul Smith is co-owner of the Saramago Café Bar (see page 171).

This family-owned café close to the Botanics is doing its bit to keep the residents of the West End well-nourished and healthy. If that sounds boring, then it shouldn’t. A selection of enticing freshly made regular and seasonal soups are always on the menu, alongside various tasty sandwich options. The attractive £4.95 meal deal includes soup and a sandwich or soup and salad, plus a soft drink and piece of fruit. If you can’t help your craving for cake though then the carrot cake is an enjoyable treat. For anyone in the mood to put something a little heartier into their bellies then the delicious lasagne comes in at just the right size to be filling. If you’re in for breakfast then that menu spans the range from bacon rolls to pancakes and syrup, not forgetting various permutations of organic porridge. + Good value meal deal - Craving a bigger cake selection

Nardini’s

215 Byres Road, West End, G12 8UD (Map 9: D2, 34) 0141 339 2221, nardinis. co.uk | Mon-Sat 8am-10pm; Sun 10am10pm. Kids; T/A. £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

The famous ice-cream seller Nardini’s of Largs has come to the big city and set up in the heart of the West End with an attractive art deco-styled café – like a temple to the ice-cream sundae which people are coming to worship at in huge numbers since opening in early 2012. Inside, seating is limited given the amount of punters, but there are lots of take-away options from the counter full ot all sorts of ice-cream flavours and sweet treats. Savoury options are limited to panini but no mind when most are here for the sundaes, ranging from knickerbocker glories and hot fudge sundaes to the massive Clyde Coast Extravaganza sharer for two featuring 12 scoops of ice-cream and 16 toppings. + Can only be the ice-cream - Not much seating

No 1 Chocolate Factory

63 St Georges Road, West End, G3 6JA (Map 9: I5, 128) , 1chocolatefactory.com | Mon–Sun 8am–8pm. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A. £9 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

The idea behind this new venture from brothers Chris and James Davie is to offer an experience that’s equally as enjoyable for kids as it is for adults. Kids can head through to a backroom and experiment with moulding and decorating their own chocolate shapes to take home with them, while parents (and any other adults of course – you don’t need to bring kids) can relax in the spacious and colourful café, watching the Charing Cross bustle beyond the huge windows. The menu has options to suit most moods, from cakes or sandwiches to delicious meat/fish/cheese or mixed platters. This combination of keeping the kids occupied while offering deli-café style food will surely prove to be a winner. The considerate attention to detail includes not cramming the huge space with furniture obstacles, ensuring a hassle-free experience for mums and dads with youngsters. + Huge meat and fish platters - No background music

North Star

108 Queen Margaret Drive, West End, G20 8NZ (Map 9: E1, off ) 0141 946 5365 | Mon–Sat 8am–6pm; Sun 10am–5pm. Veg; BYOB; Kids; T/A. £8 (lunch)

This cosy café – under new ownership since late 2011 – is now seeking to blend traditional café options with a little Italian style and flair. On offer is a range of options cooked to order – which does, however, mean some choices are not suited to those seeking an express lunch-break. The bacon and brie omelette served with organic toast is large in size and doesn’t skimp on taste, while the chicken and chorizo spiedino special is less successful with overdone chorizo affecting the flavour. Much better are the cakes, which are freshly baked in-house by owner and head chef Maurizio Rossini, with the orange and polenta cake proving a light, moist, and flavoursome delight. Adding to the Scottish/Italian fusion, the café’s coffee is supplied by Clydebankbased but Italian-style roasters, Italian Aroma. + Delicious orange and polenta cake - Long wait for meal

Offshore

3/5 Gibson Street, West End, G12 8NU (Map 9: F3, 69), offshorecoffee.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–9pm; Sat & Sun 9am–9pm. Veg; BYOB (£2 + 50p pp); T/A. £4.50 (lunch) / £4.50 (dinner)

It’s impossible not to mention the view from Offshore. Large windows looking out onto Gibson Street and onto the beginnings of Kelvingrove Park give the café a laid-back feel that makes it the perfect haven for anybody looking to chill out and watch the world go by. The obvious appeal to students and creatives in particular is further enhanced by the café’s basement, which is used for exhibitions and even for a weekly life drawing class. The lack of kitchen facilities means that food is brought in from other suppliers, but in among the wraps, sandwiches, and ciabattas there is also delicious cake freshly baked daily by a local artisan producer as well as hot lunchtime specials like soup that are similarly sourced. The coffee is fair trade, so there’s no guilt to disturb your time in one of Glasgow’s most relaxing cafés. + Ambience that’s perfect for lounging - Food limited later in evening

Peckham’s

61–65 Glassford Street, G1 1UB (Map 7: B1, 7) 0141 553 0666, peckhams. co.uk | Mon–Thu 8am–10pm; Fri–Sat 8am–midnight; Sun 9am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30pm–10pm.] Veg; HW £10.99; Kids; T/A. £8 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Peckham’s was once the go-to Merchant City deli, packed with pâtés, Scottish fruit cordials, olive oils and as fine a selection of wines as you could find in Glasgow. But it has suffered in recent years – and many competitors have stepped into the neighbourhood. So it has pushed the deli into the basement and converted the large ground floor into a cheap and cheerful café/bar. The large, monochrome space is dominated by black furnishings, with twinkling ceiling lights to offset the darkness a little. The menu is mainly ‘assembled’ food rather than home cooking and at lunchtimes it is packed with workers in need of quick fillers. But in the evenings the pre-made pasta and curry sauces aren’t pulling in the crowds. Drinks – imported beer, a good wine selection and great hot chocolate – and an easy-going staff attitude mean it is a good place to linger with friends if you want to get a seat. + Hot chocolate - Generic sauces

Piece

1056 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8LY (Map 9: F6, 99) 0141 2217975, laucknerandmoore.com | Mon–Fri 8am–

6pm; Sat 10am–6pm. Closed Sun. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £7 (lunch)

How enthusiastic is it possible to be about the humble sandwich? A visit to Piece reveals the answer: hugely. From the jokey pavement chalkboard to the quick-fire banter from busy staff and the pumping dub and reggae, the ethos is to get customers served quickly but to keep them entertained as they wait. The menu changes regularly with daily specials being recommended by the one of the owners – who’re usually there with their sleeves rolled up. Everything is made to order – try the Chicken Ole which comes with chorizo and a really delicious salsa. All are very generously filled but it’s the freshness, quality and dressings that make them truly outstanding. With a new Polish executive chef on board there’s a move to bring in more cured meats including a tasty beer sausage. + Is there a better sandwich in Glasgow? - Not much space to sit-in

The Rio Café

27 Hyndland Street, West End, G11 5QF (Map 9: B3, 7) 0141 334 9909 | Mon–Sun 9am–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 9am– midnight.] HW £12.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

The Rio Café’s 1950s diner-style décor and vibe has made it something of an institution in Glasgow’s West End, and it’s menu offers up tempting options whether you’re in for breakfast, lunch, or just a snack. The burgers come large and tasty, and even a warm chicken and bacon salad is pleasingly hearty. The strong appeal to the area’s creative types is obvious from the glow of Macbooks being worked on across the room, but there’s still a welcoming family atmosphere too, with toys available for kids. It’s this kind of attention to detail that ensures the Rio Café successfully straddles that tricky line between the cool and the functional. In the evenings it transforms into a bar that matches the appeal of its daytime operation, featuring live performances, including jazz on Thursday nights and a Tuesday night open-mic gig. + Relaxing ambience - Some seating wrong side of shabby chic

Riverside Café

Riverside Museum, 100 Pointhouse Place, West End, G3 8RS See Arts Venues

Roots and Fruits

455–457 Great Western Road, West End, G12 8HH (Map 9: F2, 58) 0141 339 3077, rootsandfruitsandflowers.com | Mon–Fri 7.30am–7pm; Sat 7.30am–6pm; Sun 10am–6.30pm. Veg; T/A. £4 (set lunch) / £7 (dinner)

If you want to ensure that what you’re eating has been prepared from the freshest and highest quality fruit and veg available, then you’ll be hard pushed to beat Roots & Fruits. The iconic Glasgow deli and greengrocer already supplies produce to hotels and restaurants across the city – as well as nearby shoppers of course, but now you don’t have to go elsewhere for a sit-in sample of their wares. They may only have five seats, but they are worth battling for. A regularly changing menu will always have a curry, two soups (one vegan), fish-cakes, and meat or veggie rolls as well as other rotating specials. The food is top-notch – chorizo pie is deliciously hearty, and even the potato salad shows creative flair, combining red onion, mustard, and rhubarb for an innovative pleasure. For afters, choose from freshly in-house baked scones and vegan cake, or other tempting locally produced treats. + Fresh produce turned into fresh ideas - Limited seating

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Glasgow thebutterflyandthepig.com | Mon–Sat 9am—8pm; Sun 11am–8pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11am–midnight; Fri/Sat noon– 3am; Sun noon–midnight.] Veg; BYOB (£5); HW £12; Kids; T/A. £7.50 (set lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

Cushion & Cake (page 135): a lovingly retro and craft-filled tearoom with Crafternoon events for budding creators

Rose and Grants

27 Trongate, Merchant City, Merchant City, G1 5EZ (Map 7: C2, 36) 0141 553 0501, roseandgrants.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–5pm; Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 10am– 5pm. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £5.50 (set lunch)

A welcome addition to Argyle Street’s eastern end – an already interesting arty area that has for long held so much potential – recently opened Rose and Grants Trongate is the sister café to its namesake in Milngavie. Bright and spacious, with a couch for lounging and plenty of tables, it is already pulling in the lunchtime crowd and may soon be open as an evening bistro too. The breakfast menu ranges from bagels to yogurt muesli while lunch includes soups, salads and sandwiches. The best of both worlds is the chicken caesar baguette which skimps a bit on the parmesan but makes up for it with the tasty dressing. The less common soup combo of tomato and parsnip works very well – the tomato adding so much more than its subtle background taste suggests. The grilled goat’s cheese salad is a melting marvel, served with a generous portion of pancetta and pine nuts on a bed of rocket. + Quality, healthy food in an area that needs a boost - Quite a price hike to sit in

+ Food that tastes as good as it looks - Closed in evenings

Stewart’s Victorian Tea Rooms 89 Glassford Street, Merchant City, G1 1UH (Map 7: B1, 6) 0141 552 0646, stewartsvictoriantearooms.com | Mon– Sun 8am–6pm. Veg; Wh. £12.95 (set lunch)

Drinking tea and all the rituals that go with it may be back in fashion but that’s where Stewart’s association with what’s ‘current’ ends. Everything, from the classical music on loop to the cake-stands and the royal portraits on the walls harks back to the past. So it’s a surprise then to find some incongruous dishes on the savoury menu: ravioli arrabbiata, eggs Benedict and Greek salad would have been out of place in late 1800s Britain. The mostly elderly clientele (with the exception of some tourists) don’t seem

TIPList FOR COFFEE & TEA • Artisan Roast In-house roastings and unrivalled dedication 131

✱ Sonny & Vito’s

• Avenue G Single-origin beans and award-winning baristas 131

Walking into Sonny & Vito’s can make you forget that you’re in Scotland. This appealing deli-café’s shelves are stocked with all manner of epicurean delights from Italy and the wider Mediterranean area, and this feeling of continental culinary delight continues onto the plate. The £4.90 lunchtime soup & halfsandwich deal enables you to enjoy fresh organic bread with your own choice of filling – the chorizo is to be particularly recommended – along with their own lovingly home-made soup. Those looking for something a bit different can pick from a specials board for the likes of a flavoursome Spanish sausage roll with warm new potato salad. If you fancy a cake afterwards then you’re in luck. Unusual combinations like Tunisian chilli and orange cake or chocolate and pineapple muffins abound, and the baking is as tasty as it is eye-catching. A real gem on the Glasgow café scene.

• Coffee, Chocolate and Tea McCallum’s cool espresso bar and tea shop 133

52 Park Road, West End, G4 9JG (Map 9: G2, 71) 0141 357 0640 | Mon–Sat 9am– 6pm; Sun 10am–6pm. Veg; Wh; T/A. £4.90 (set lunch)

• Cup Speciality teas and infusions, with branch No2 due 135 • Cushion & Cake Crafty charms and various teas in vintage crockery 135 • Tapa A quality brew from the original artisan roasters 139, 171 • Tchai-Ovna House of Tea Eccentric and laidback with exotic teas 171

to mind though and may instead opt for more traditional omelette, York ham salad with new potatoes, or, more likely, the selection of sandwiches and homemade cakes that make up the two choices of afternoon tea. Jenier first flush tea (served in pots with strainers) such as the wonderfully subtle Rose Congou, and home-made cakes like the moreish mint cheesecake are what this place does best. + The full tea experience - Hot dishes not the strong point

Tapa Coffeehouse

721 Pollokshaws Road, Southside, G41 2AA (Map 8: D2, 11) 0141 423 9494, tapabakehouse.com | Mon–Sun 8am–6pm. Veg; HW £14.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £7.95 (set lunch) / £11.50 (dinner)

Tapa encapsulates every wannabe cafe owner’s pipe dream: own bakery and roasting house ensuring freshness of house staples? Check. Home-made cakes and locally sourced ingredients? Check. All of which is more than enough to ensure a returning fanbase. But then add the fun, relaxed atmosphere (especially at weekends) and we’re not just onto a winner but a contender for best in Glasgow. The menu is appealing, with a choice ranging from breakfast goodies (pastries, organic muesli and even full English – traditional and vegan) to soups, sandwiches, omelettes, open boards (dishes of deli delights) and mains such as beefburger, lentil and pine nut burger, vegetable jalfrezi and fish and chips. Then there are daily specials: the vegetable sausage and mixed bean chilli has a pleasantly rich tomato base, served with Tapa bread rather than rice. Then it’s on to the wonderful cakes . . . + Almost everything - Service can be underwhelming

The ‘odd pair’, it states in the blurb, and they could be talking about the mismatched cutlery and crockery. A step back in time to a more genteel age awaits on climbing the stairs to the sister venue of the Buff Club and companion piece to the pub/restaurant below, though it feels like a world away from DJ sets, comedy nights, and everything post-1950. Here it’s conversation, afternoon teas and an array of utterly delicious home-made cakes. Before the quaint old tradition of high tea is served, there’s a lunch (and all-day breakfast) menu for toasties and sandwiches, specials such as ploughman’s lunch and various ‘open sanners’ that fill a hole but aren’t prize-winners for imaginative fillings. The post-5pm menu, however, is fresh-tasting and restaurant standard – fish batter is light and crispy and the chips genuinely hand-cut, while the stuffed mushrooms with salad is a pleasant light meal. Other options may include vegetable frittata, mixed grill or chicken and leek pie. + Granny chic, and using local ingredients - No surprises on the daytime menu

Tibo

443 Duke Street, East End, G31 1RY See Bistros & Brasseries

Tinderbox

• 118 Ingram Street, Merchant City, G1 1EJ (Map 7: C1, 5) 0141 552 6907 | Mon– Sat 7.15am–10pm; Sun 8am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 10am–10pm.] Veg; HW £12.95; Wh; T/A. £8 (lunch) / £9 (dinner) • Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre, G1 3JN (Map 6: D4, 77) 0141 221 5557 | Mon–Wed 9am–8pm; Thu–Sat 9am–10pm; Sun 11am–8pm. Veg; HW £14.20; Wh; T/A. £6.95 (set lunch) / £9 (dinner) • 189 Byres Road, West End, G12 8TS (Map 9: C2, 27) 0141 339 3108 | Mon–Sat 7.15am–11pm; Sun 7.45am–11pm. Veg; Wh; T/A. £7.50 (lunch) / £7.50 (dinner)

21 Whitehill Street, East End, G31 2LH See Vegetarian

Tinderbox’s original Byres Road coffeshop café opened in 1998 but the interior still feels contemporary and enticing. No food is prepared on the premises though, with savoury options being either pre-prepared sandwiches or salad/noodle bowls. It’s an extra £1.50 to eat-in with a sandwich, which includes a packet of unbranded crisps and a small pot of mayonnaise. Mayonnaise with a sandwich being treated as a form of bonus could raise an eyebrow or two. Tinderbox’s cakes feel much better on the eye, the tastebuds, and the pocket. As well as usual favourites like carrot cake, there are also more unusual but equally delicious options like a parsnip version, as well as a range of tempting-looking cupcakes. People looking for a café to work in should be aware that none of Tinderbox’s three branches offer free WiFi, only paid. + Delicious cakes - No free WiFi

Taste

Tramway Café Bar

Tchai-Ovna House of Tea

Trans-Europe Café

Tapa Bakehouse

240 Sauchiehall St, City Centre, G2 3EQ See Sandwich Bars feature in Cafés

42 Otago Lane, West End, G12 8PB See Vegetarian

The Tearoom @ The Butterfly and the Pig 153 Bath Street, City Centre, G2 4SQ (Map 6: C2, 35) 0141 234 2459,

25 Albert Drive, Southside, G41 2PE See Arts Venues

25 Parnie Street, Merchant City, G1 5RJ (Map 7: C3, 39) 0141 552 7999, transeuropecafe.co.uk | Mon–Sun 10am– 5pm (Supper club Fri–Sat 6.30pm–10pm). Veg; HW £14.95; Kids; T/A. £7 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

The retro Trans-Europe Café, fitted

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CAFES

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Glasgow out with bus seats, board games and roadmaps, may be playful in appearance but it is very serious about the food served up. On the menu are imaginative dishes brought in by former Ubiquitous Chip chef Andy Stewart, alongside excellent soups, burgers and panini. Main courses include bavette steak, coq au vin, and butternut squash gratin and none costs more than a tenner. There is real talent and care evident on the plate – with extras such as a delicate pea and mint purée, or a light, home-made coleslaw. Cakes and puddings should not be missed either – the bread and butter pudding is excellent. It’s open through the week during the daytime only, but at weekends it runs a successful supper club – call early as most nights are booked up. + Bread and butter pudding - Fish-cakes a little potatoey

Tribeca

102 Dumbarton Road, West End, G11 6NX (Map 9: C3, 14) 0141 576 0122, tribecacafe.com | Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 10am–4pm. Veg; Pre; Kids. £11 (lunch)

With a name like Tribeca, after the area of New York, the Americana inside – not to mention the yellow taxi and NYPD cruiser parked outside – should come as little surprise. Pictures of Manhattan street scenes, wooden tables (rather crammed in) and a laid-back vibe are the perfect setting for the breakfast-heavy menu. Big US-sized portions are the norm here, whether opting for various bagels, eggs done many ways, towering stacks of pancakes, or the full fry-up – good for those with American appetites, or possibly famished builders. It’s not all about the brekkies here, there are a selection of panini and burgers, which come as a good-sized pattie, rather than being monster-sized, well-cooked and juicy on a nice bun with fries and a fresh salad. Most people don’t get to the desserts after all that but there’s temptation in the Key lime cheesecake and Mississippi mud chocolate cheesecake. It isn’t particularly cheap, and pricing seems a bit random for some items, but the chances are it’ll be the only meal you’ll need all day. + A unique, and generous, slice of the US - Are eggs that costly these days?

Where the Monkey Sleeps

182 West Regent Street, City Centre, G2 4RU (Map 6: C3, 36) 0141 226 3406, monkeysleeps.com | Mon–Fri 7am–5pm. Closed Sat/Sun. Veg; Kids; T/A; D. £4.50 (set lunch)

Rockin’ basement rebel WTMS can no longer be filed under ‘hidden gem’. Now that it has celebrated its first decade, it can proudly flaunt its establishment credentials. And well-deserved too. Choices range from healthy fruit smoothies (or the more indulgent Oreo Speedwagon of biscuits, vanilla ice-cream and milk) to serious sandwiches with hard-man monikers like Iron Monger (tuna mayo, cheddar, tomato, red onion and mixed leaves), Meat for the Beast and the famous Kurgan – the fortnightlychanging sandwich special. Fillings range from the average biker’s dream of macho meats, strong cheddar and cayenne pepper to more delicate combos like rocket, goat’s cheese and sun-dried tomato. The Woman from Iran is a fine compromise: char-grilled aubergine and peppers, smoked cheese, courgette, red onion, chillies, hot sauce, slightly overpowering cayenne pepper and lime juice. While salads may tempt, three ‘Nuclear Beans’ combinations (they’re hot and generally contain meat and cheese) are more house style. + Great portions and great attitude - Burgers could be better

CHINESE It’s probably fair to say Chinese restaurants are the stable entity amidst the profusion of Malaysian, Thai and Japanese eateries Glasgow now boasts. York Street’s Ho Wong, for example, has gone some way to establishing the cuisine’s status by successfully laying the foundations for traditional dining as early as 1986. In contrast, more contemporary offerings, such as Chow, provide the setting for a modern dining experience. Authentic and modern representations, regional distinctions, specialities and the sheer variety go some way to explaining why Chinese cuisine has become such a dependable feature in the city. Reviewer: Rory McGinlay

Amber Regent

50 West Regent Street, City Centre, G2 2RA (Map 6: D3, 53) 0141 331 1655, amberregent.com | Mon–Thu noon– 2.15pm, 5–10.30pm; Fri noon–2.15pm, 5–11pm; Sat noon–11.30pm; Sun 5–10pm. Veg; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; T/A. £9.50 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

From the staffed cloakroom to the waiters effortlessly filleting fish at the table, the Amber Regent retains many of the characteristics of hospitality from a bygone era. This theme carries through to the furnishings with the restaurant’s adjoining cocktail bar adorned with Victorian curtains and an overhanging chandelier. This shouldn’t overwhelm, however, with food standing up to its grandiose setting. Steamed scallops are served in the shell and topped with soy and garlic, a tricky combination that is delicately balanced. More traditional dishes, such as yuk sung – pork wrapped in crisp lettuce – is well executed and gives the menu a rustic edge. Using MacCallum’s as their main supplier, the Amber Regent boasts an array of seafood. Sea bass, served whole before said filleting and garnished with ginger and spring onions, is exceptional. A Scottish undercurrent is also apparent, with sliced venison in Mandarin sauce a notable fusion of cuisines. Garnishes are a little elaborate, yet this is merely an aesthetic quibble as it certainly doesn’t hinder nor detract from the quality of food the Amber Regent delivers. + Half price mains throughout the week - Expensive otherwise

Asia Style

185–189 St George’s Road, West End, G3 6JD (Map 9: I4, 84) 0141 332 8828 | Mon–Sun 5.30pm–2.30am. HW £15.90; T/A. £14 (dinner)

There is something refreshing and apt in the fact Asia Style doesn’t have its own website. Since its inception in 2004, the canteen-style eatery has transcended its hidden gem status and established itself as somewhat of an institution without the need for advertising or boasting. Similarly, the restaurant’s décor includes formica tables and faded, nondescript prints on the walls. Starters are expensive with the ever-popular soft shell crab and salt and pepper squid nearing the £10 mark. That said, both deliver, with the crab requisitely crisp and soft. Mains, meanwhile, are more moderately priced and even though there are a variety of traditional Cantonese, Mandarin and Singaporean dishes, the menu is

predominantly Malaysian. Curry laksa – a seafood based soup – abounds with squid, prawns, and vermicelli noodles and is served in a thin broth heavily flavoured with lemongrass and chilli. Service is brisk yet not abrupt, but be prepared to eavesdrop as tables are packed tightly to accommodate diners. + Swift, no nonsense dining - Expect a wait for a table at the weekend

Banana Leaf

67 Cambridge St, City Centre, G3 6QX See Far East

✱ China Blue

96 Renfield Street, City Centre, G2 1NH (Map 6: D2, 46) 0141 333 1881 | Sun – Thu 12pm – 11pm; Fri/Sat noon – 11pm. Veg; Pre; HW £13.50; Kids; T/A. £5.50 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The darkened staircase leading to China Blue gives the impression of an outdated karaoke bar, yet the authentic food is anything but a parody. The menu is separated into an opening section of familiar Westernised dishes and traditional Chinese dishes at the back. With patient staff delighted to explain, the adventurous diner can see why the restaurant is teeming with Chinese families. A loosely translated Eight Jewels hot pot abounds with a variety of ingredients, including tiger prawns, squid, and tofu. Mixed seafood is stirfried with the Malaysian paste belacan, giving the dish a fiery flavour crowned off by hefty scallops. Pork dim sum, on the other hand, is not as light as it should be, and the short waiting time suggests it isn’t freshly steamed. + Generous sides of seasonal veg - Dated carpet makes for a sticky walking experience

Chow

98 Byres Road, West End, G12 8TB (Map 9: C2, 24) 0141 334 9818, chowrestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Thu 11.30am–2.15pm, 5–11.30pm; Fri/Sat 11.30am–2:15pm, 5pm–midnight; Sun 4.30–11.30pm. Pre; HW £13.50; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £6 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Recent renovations to Chow have highlighted the importance in remaining contemporary and fresh in the cutthroat dining arena that is Byres Road. A geisha now adorns the back wall, while an eclectic mix of stylish music can be detected in the background. These changes may be attributed to the influence of Colin Chow, son of owner Eliza, who is looking to balance the restaurant’s more traditional elements with a sense of youthful and fashionable vigour. These modifications, however, do not seem to have been implemented by the kitchen, with the menu taking a safe, yet bountiful, form. Classic dishes are executed well, with a hot and sour soup striking the correct balance of spice and acidity, while prawn dim sum is delicate and classically presented. A choice of steamed fish varies daily and gives the kitchen a little more leverage; a whole seabass is filleted precisely and allowed to shine with a light ginger and soy reduction. In all, Chow exhibits a nice blend of old and new, and perhaps with a few more daring dishes it could achieve the equilibrium it is aiming for. + Family-run and always feel looked after - Two-storeys don’t help the atmosphere

Dragon-i

311–313 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 3PT (Map 6: D2, 28) 0141 332 7728, dragon-i.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 5–11pm; Sat 5–11pm Sun 5–10pm. Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £8.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Both the sharp, minimalist surroundings and quasi-Asian menu serve to underline Dragon-i is anything but a traditional Chinese restaurant. There is an undoubted Scottish element running through the menu, with Stornoway black pudding accompanying crispy pancakes and Campbell’s beef fillet stir-fried with a lemongrass-inflected belacan sauce. This Thai influence is carried over into an excellent tom yan gong that marries well the four flavour components and steamed MacCallum’s seabass more than competently balances a soy and ginger sauce. The stress on innovation, however, overreaches with a starter of tiger prawns benefits very little from the introduction of strawberries. While Dragon-i incorporates some of the highlights of Asian cuisine in a contemporary setting, the international approach may not to be to everyone’s taste. + Prime spot for pre-theatre dining - Fruit-laden starters

Four Seasons

87 Cambridge Street, City Centre, G3 6RU (Map 6: C1, 24) 0141 332 2666, fourseasons-restaurant.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–10.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm. Closed Sun. Veg; Pre; HW £13.90; T/A; D. £5.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

With its narrow entrance, the Four Seasons takes on an inconspicuous position opposing the towering Thistle Hotel on Cambridge Street. Inside, wallpaper that depicts the opulence, glitz and glamour of Hong Kong contrasts with an understated and very reasonably priced menu. As a consequence, hoards of art-school students frequent the restaurant for a wholesome lunch and Chinese variation on the munchie box. A la carte dining is more expansive and refined, with wonton soup is at should be; simple, light and refreshing. For mains, familiar dishes such as crispy shredded beef stand alongside more authentic choices such as ma po tofu and a variety of congees. Beef flank, braised for almost two days and served in either a clay pot or lao mein, is a notable favourite and deservedly so. Desserts are a tad uninspiring, as a trio of questionably termed home-made icecreams, ordered for the green tea flavour alone, fails to impress. With husband and wife working full-time front-ofhouse and in the kitchen, Four Seasons is an efficient and well-run operation that seems more than content with its understated charm. + Presence of both owners on site - Toilets need a revamp

✱ Ho Wong

82 York Street, City Centre, G2 8LE (Map 6: B5, 101) 0141 221 3550, ho-wong. com | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 6–11.30pm; Sat noon–2pm, 5.30–11.30pm; Sun 5–10.30pm. Veg; HW £17; Wh; T/A. £11.50 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

In our era of austerity, restaurants have attempted to entice diners with an avalanche of mid-week, cut-price offers. On a gloomy Tuesday evening, Ho Wong is near capacity despite not offering a pre-theatre or discounted menu options. Considering Ho Wong has been an established proponent of fine Chinese cuisine since 1986, this inversion should not seem so puzzling. Sleek, formal service is matched by the restaurant’s appearance; starched table-cloths, tear-drop wine glasses and high-backed chairs give a distinctly European flavour to proceedings. The menu, however, is unmistakably Chinese with an evident stress on seafood dishes. Dragon and phoenix king prawns are lightly battered, tossed in sesame seeds,

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Glasgow Rice and Noodle

96 Dumbarton Road, West End, G11 6NX See Takeaway & Home Delivery

See Woo Restaurant

The Point, 29 Saracen Street, G22 5HT (Map 6: C1, off) 0141 331 6105, seewoorestaurant.com | Mon–Sun 11am–11pm. HW £15; T/A. £8.50 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

and work surprisingly well with a salad cream dressing. Sizzling dishes, served on skillets, give an air of theatricality, with fillet of beef in black pepper sauce a highly popular choice. An assiette of monkfish, scallops, squid and monkfish is a seafood lovers’ heaven, with fish supplied by MacCallum’s. Just as Ho Wong shows little manoeuvrability in terms of discounted dining, there is no compromise in the quality that has served it well for over 15 years. + Surprising wine-list - Mains rise to late teens

With Scotland’s largest Chinese supermarket sitting alongside the restaurant, See Woo clearly has a plethora of ingredients at its disposal. An extensive yet moderately priced menu, specialising in Cantonese and Pekinese cuisine, are tangible signs of having a 60,000 acre food emporium as a neighbour. This feeling of extended capacity is most readily felt in the fact the restaurant can host 500 diners, a figure that can give a canteen-like air to proceedings. After sifting through various banquet choices, the menu is neatly laid out with a clear emphasis on fish. The quality of the seafood is indisputable, with impressive king prawns standing up to a bold szechuan sauce and encased, live lobsters available for the customer’s selection. Chinese hotpots allow diners to choose from a vast selection of raw ingredients and are required to cook them in a mild broth. While a little laborious, the DIY element is certainly authentic, refreshing and conducive to sharing. The hotpots also showcase some of See Woo’s more unfamiliar culinary items, so expect an occasional sighting of frog’s legs or pig’s heart. + Authentic and exotic ingredients - Power ballads blasting from the stereo

Home Wok

The Upper House

Opium

Wudon

✱ HITLIST CHINESE ✱

China Blue Don’t be deterred by its slightly seedy entrance, China Blue serves some of the most authentic dishes in the city.

✱ Ho Wong A traditional, formal dining experience that is ideal for special occasions.

101 Byres Road, West End, G11 5HW See Takeaway & Home Delivery

191 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 2UL See Far East

441 Victoria Road, Southside, G42 8RW See Takeaway & Home Delivery

535 Great Western Rd, West End See Far East

FAR EAST FUSION, JAPANESE, MALAYSIAN, KOREAN Glasgow cannot lay claim to a wealth of Far Eastern eating options but with two new Malaysian restaurants opening this year and the handful of Japanese eateries often busy, the appetite for Eastern flavours within the city shows no sign of abating. Fusion restaurants take the best of each of their composite cuisines and smaller dedicated outlets promise a taste of ‘home’ meaning there is both quality and authenticity on offer for those who care to seek it out. Reviewers: Fiona Anderson, David Kirkwood

Banana Leaf MALAYSIAN

67 Cambridge Street, City Centre, G3 6QX (Map 6: C2, 109) 0141 333 9994 | Mon–Sun 11.30am–11pm. HW £13.90; Kids (after 5pm); T/A. £7.90 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

A newcomer this year, the Banana Leaf is a family-run enterprise with two Wong brothers and their father offering Chinese Malaysian cuisine and a warm welcome to an appreciative and already loyal clientele – Chinese customers especially favouring the soft-shelled crab and the stir-fried pork belly. The banana leaf theme runs from the plastic curtains separating the kitchen, through the menu, to the plates themselves. Keropok lekur – salmon ‘crackers’, slivers of salmon mixed with flour, deep-fried and served with a fiery chilli sauce – makes for an unusual starter, while dry-rubbed spare ribs are salty and tender. A deep-flavoured

✱ HITLIST FAR EAST ✱ Kitsch Inn Vibrant, wellsourced Thai cooking in some funky laid-back surroundings. ✱ Nanakusa A range of skilfully cooked Japanese dishes with clean flavours served with a smile in fun, well-designed surroundings. ✱ Opium Elegant and indulgent, Opium represents the finer side of fusion cuisine in Glasgow. ✱ Wau Cafe This no-frills café serves authentic Malaysian Malay cuisine at incredibly good prices. moist and meaty curry beef brisket is rich and rounded with a simmering chilli heat, while the stir-fried prawns take on flavours of butter and milk and are given a lift with coriander, chilli lemon grass and curry leaves. To round off the meal, bubur cha cha – cold tapioca pudding with coconut is unusually textured and refreshing yet substantial. Authentic dishes and reasonable prices mean the restaurant is often very busy with local students so booking is advised. + Beautiful beef curry - Overwhelming menu

Bar Soba (Byres Road) FUSION

116–122 Byres Road, West End, G12 8TB (Map 9: C2, 25) 0141 357 5482, barsoba. co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–midnight.] HW £8.95–13.50; Kids. £9.95 Mon–Fri (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Dragon-i: a unique fusion of Asian flavours with local produce

The sister venue to the Mitchell Street venue of the same name, Soba opened on Byres Road in early 2012 and is described as a ‘Bar & Noodle Kitchen’. The bar aspect means that Soba offers a great selection of cocktails. They may not be cheap but there are some innovative combinations on there and the Lemon Shortbread is to be particularly recommended. Japanese food dominates the culinary side of the menu, but Indonesian, Malaysian, and Thai dishes also crop up. From the starters, a good choice of sushi is complemented by starters such as the tangy and tasty crispy coconut prawns. From the mains you can pick from wok-fried dishes, soup-based delicacies, and even Asian-fusion style burgers and wraps. From the curries, the enjoyable katsu chicken curry even shows enough attention to detail to use Japanesestyle panko breadcrumbs. The street-art theme of the décor gives a contemporary air, and an eye on the younger market means two-for-one mains for students Monday to Thursday and until 5pm on Fridays. A promising start to life in the West End. + Scale of enticing choices on the menu - Mojito ice-cream not what was promised on menu The List Eating & Drinking Guide 141

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Glasgow Bar Soba (Mitchell Lane) FUSION

11 Mitchell Lane, City Centre, G1 3NU (Map 6: D4, 78) 0141 204 2404, barsoba. co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–10pm; Sun 12.30–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon– midnight; Sun 12.30–midnight.] Pre; HW £13.50; Wh; T/A; D. £9.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

One of the first restaurants in Glasgow to serve fashionable ‘fusion’ food, Bar Soba serves up a mix of Thai, Japanese, Vietnamese and Chinese influenced dishes including the soba noodles that the restaurant’s name suggests. Bar Soba claims that its pan-Asian street food will ‘kick your ass’ and it is often busy with shoppers and those beginning a big night out – the extensive and imaginative cocktail list making it a popular pre-club hangout. To begin, a wonton soup is a large bowl of deep-red hot and sour stock with floating pork dumplings that packs a real fiery punch. However the California maki for a sushi starter sadly looks like it has been sitting in the fridge for a while and is a little soggy. The nasi goreng, Indonesian fried rice, lacks both the required chilli heat or tamarind twang, but is served with a well executed fried eggs and skewers of soft chicken in an sweet satay sauce. The classic Japanese sauce of the katsu curry is both sweet and peppery but the strips of coated deep-fried chicken it accompanies lack the necessary crunch. + Fiery wonton soup - Soggy sushi

Ichiban Japanese Noodle Café JAPANESE

• 50 Queen Street, City Centre, G1 3DS (Map 6: E5, 99) 0141 204 4200, ichiban. co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm; Sun 1–10pm. Pre; HW £11.90; Kids; T/A. £6.90 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner) • 184 Dumbarton Road, West End, G11 6UN (Map 9: B3, 9) 0141 334 9222, ichiban.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/ Sat noon–11pm; Sun 1–10pm. Pre; HW £11.90; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £6.90 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Translating from Japanese into English as ‘one’ this noodle bar and sushi stop has been busy since opening on Dumbarton Road ten years ago. In common with its Queen Street twin, diners take up their places on benches alongside large wooden tables amid bright lighting and flashing flat screens in an informal laid-back set up. A compartmentalised menu offers big bowls of noodles in broth, stir -fries, chilli and curry dishes with a wealth of side dishes and made-to-order sushi – catering for those familiar with Japanese eating as well as those trying to navigate it for the first time. A generous bento box stuffed with gyoza (deep-fried vegetable pastry parcels), California rolls, onigiri (big pillows of rice) and sticky sweet duck with garlic and soy, includes a side of miso and is arguably more than enough for one person to handle. A generously sized temaki cone contains omelette and crabstick and is sprinkled with jewel-like roe, while the savoury tentsuyu broth of the agedashi tofu, brings out the subtle soy flavour of the soft bean curd. + Speedy, tasty, informal eating - Danger of over-ordering

✱ Kitsch Inn THAI

214 Bath Street, City Centre, G2 4HW (Map 6: B2, 17) 0141 332 1341, tikibarglasgow.com | Mon–Sun 10am –9.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon– midnight.] Pre; HW £12.95; Kids; T/A. £8 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

A Thai restaurant kitted-out in Polynesian iconography and 50s Americana might seem a tad incongruous, but authentic

‘tiki’ bars (of which there is one, aptly named The Tiki Bar, downstairs) tend to have accompanying restaurants serving south-east Asian cuisine. Since the first one opened in the States the 1930s, it’s been a tradition. And owner Ian McColm is serious about his tradition. He’s also serious about well-sourced ingredients, with sustainable fish, free-range chickens and organic local bread all featuring on the concise but intriguing menu that’s a far distance from Thai-by-numbers. The crying tiger beef salad sees juicy little slices fanned out and seasoned by an understated sauce of sesame and soy. Massaman curry is a beef and potato dish of impressive depth, a hit of lemongrass moving into red-curry territory, rounded off with a peanut edge. Skillful stuff. So, too, the three-flavoured sauce that accompanies the coley, a sweet tamarind base with a dunt of chilli lingering on your top lip. There’s a real vibrancy to the food. And in a stroke of pudding-related, tapas-esque genius, the desserts come in half sizes so you can get two. + The food feels both bold and authentic - . . . but the décor might be a bit bizarre for some

Kuta FUSION

104 Bath Street, City Centre, G2 2EN See Bars & Pubs

✱ Nanakusa JAPANESE

441 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3LG (Map 6: A2, 1) 0141 332 6303, nanakusa.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon– 2.30pm; 5–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–midnight; Sun 5–11pm. HW £13.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £6.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Taking its name from the seven edible herbs of spring traditionally eaten to ward off evil spirits, Nanakusa aspires to give you ‘a nice warm feeling in your tummy’. Friendly and helpful staff lead you past an open-kitchen into a large high-ceilinged atrium, where bench tables and large panels of ever changing coloured lights provide an interesting modern contrast to the ornate cornicing overhead. An extensive menu complete with bright, kitsch pictures illustrating each dish lists a good mix of rice and noodle offerings as well as made-to-order sushi and bento boxes. In addition, Nanakusa boasts a speciality tempura chef and a dedicated kushiyaki barbecue grill promising an authentic experience. Yakitori skewers of crunchy prawns and chunks of pepper are a great appetiser or side dish, while kai sen udon, thick udon noodles, stir-fried with bright fishcake and quirkily carved squid, are comforting and hearty. A bento box filled with crisp light tempura, fresh sushi and sticky sweet slivers of teriyaki chicken is similarly substantial and wellexecuted. To complete the meal the black sesame ice-cream is an unusual savourysweet velvety-cream experience not to be missed. + Fresh flavours - Uncomfortable bench seating

the select menu the restaurant also proudly boast a Hong-Kong trained chef specialising in dim sum. A comforting fragrant bowl of home-made crab and sweetcorn soup is sweetly fragrant while the chicken sui mai dim sum are moist and meaty, well-packed dumplings of prawns and pork expertly shaped into generous parcels and make for an impressive beginning to the meal. This immaculate presentation and attention to detail is then borne out in the main courses as spicy prawns are theatrically served in a giant prawn cracker, the prawns themselves retaining a bite and the accompanying sauce full of dark soy and chilli flavours, while glossy soft strips of stir-fried rib eye of beef contrast with crunchy greens. Extravagant exotic cocktails complement the food menu and a genuinely warm welcome from management and effortless service make a visit here an indulgent treat. + Dim sum specialities - High prices

menu. Nasi goreng and nasi lemack giving an authentic taste of Malaysia, while a nutty pad thai shows other Asian influences. Salt and chilli squid, crunchy chunks of seafood in a thick batter with coriander and yet more chilli, is a delightfully savoury starter. The Malaysian style kung pao king prawns – giant prawns battered and served in a dark sticky chilli-rich sauce peppered with a generous smattering of cashews and crunchy chunks of peppers is lipsmackingly good. Tapioca pearl drinks are sweet and sherbety and provide an unusual accompaniment to the meal. + Authentic SE Asian flavours - No-frills surroundings

Rumours Kopitiam

The Merchant City plays host to the Glasgow branch of this three-strong UK chain. Popular with stags, hens, birthdays and works night outs, Sapporo Teppanyaki has a well-deserved reputation as a fun destination for parties. Large hotplates provide a focus for the diners lining each side – each pod seating eight but with the potential to double up for larger groups of merrymakers. Friendly and efficient staff weave speedily among the sizzling grills delivering starters, drinks and desserts while expert performance chefs provide both food and entertainment. Flashes of flame, steel clashing against steel, spinning eggs and flying fried potatoes are just some of the highlights of the show. The duck rolls make for a moist savoury starter but don’t benefit from

MALAYSIAN

21 Bath Street, City Centre, G2 1HW (Map 6: D3, 51) 0141 353 0678 | Mon–Sat noon–10.30pm, Sun noon–10pm. Veg; HW £13.90; Kids; T/A. £7.90 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Bustling, and often full of students, this Malaysian café on Bath Street provides a great pit stop for groups on their way out. A kopitiam in Asia is traditionally a breakfast and tea or coffee shop (kopi being the Malay for coffee) although Rumours serves substantial dishes from midday to late in the evening. The space is relatively low-key with plain wooden topped tables, hand-written specials posters and the odd Chinese lantern adorning the windows – the no frills décor belying the quality of the extensive

Sapporo Teppanyaki JAPANESE

2–6 Ingram Street, Merchant City, G1 1HA (Map 7: D1, 21) 0141 553 4060, sapporo.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–11pm; Sun noon–10.30pm. Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £9 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

✱ Opium FUSION

191 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 2UL (Map 6: C3, 55) 0141 332 6668, opiumrestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon– 2.30pm, 5–10pm; Fri noon–2.30pm, 5–11pm; Sat noon–11pm; Sun noon– 10pm. Pre; HW £13; T/A. £9.50 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

The soft lighting and darkly elegant tones of the décor add to the feeling of opulence and decadence suggested by this restaurant’s name. In addition to offering a well-balanced mix of Chinese, Thai and Malay influenced dishes on

Banana Leaf (page 141): a tantalising taste of Chinese Malaysian food

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Glasgow their accompanying raspberry coulis, while gyoza, hot dumplings packed with crunchy vegetables are delicious when dipped in soy. Slivers of beef fillet come straight from the hotplate with a pungent portion of garlic and chilli and are both meltingly tender and full of flavour, while a generous portion of scallops are perfectly cooked – the quality of the food matching the great party atmosphere. + Fantastic party atmosphere - Duck and raspberry?

Shilla KOREAN

1138 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8TD (Map 9: E5, 109) 0141 334 5566, shillaedinburgh.com | Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–10.30pm. Closed Sun. BYOB (£5, £15 spirits; no beer); HW £11.50; Kids; T/A. £12 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Glasgow’s only Korean restaurant, Shilla, occupies a cosy corner on old Argyle street. With tightly packed tables and friendly staff the restaurant has a bustling yet welcoming atmosphere. The wide range of dishes, and their unfamiliar names can be a little overwhelming to those not au fait with Korean cuisine, however staff are pleased to advise you on a selection from rice and noodle-based offerings and hot pots to sushi platters. Twin temaki cones of fresh tender lobster, seasoned rice and avocado rolled in delicate seaweed, makes for an elegant and expertly executed starter, while superlight batter brings out the flavour of the sweet potato and aubergine that form the vegetable tempura. For a main course the sizzling oh sam bul go ki, intensely savoury bite-sized pieces of char-grilled pork and tender squid, is sticky-sweet, garlicky and substantial. The battered un-shelled crab of the song hyung khot gae twi gim is a little fiddly but does work well with the thick ginger and spring onion sauce. Complimentary pickles and a hearty side order of kimchi (fermented cabbage) bring distinctly Korean flavours to the meal. + Perfect pickles - Lack of elbow room

Thai Lemongrass THAI

24 Renfrew Street, City Centre, G2 3BW (Map 6: D2, 31) 0141 331 1315, thailemongrass.net | Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5–11.30pm; Fri/Sat noon– 11.30pm; Sun 1–11.30pm. BYOB (£6); HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £9.50 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

To enter Thai Lemongrass is to step off a grubby street of buses and building work and into a little bit of zen, where ceiling fans slowly whirl and muzak never sounded so good. Exquisitely uniformed staff swiftly present Thai prawn crackers (infinitely superior to the Chinese ones) and an expansive menu with accomplished use of the main ingredients of the region. Delicate tasting fishcakes are light and chewy (far removed from the bread-crumbed patties we’re used to), and come with a sauce giving sourness of tamarind, cooling cucumber chunks, and a peanutty edge. Seabass majestically arrives whole – fins and all – in a tangy broth with a big dose of lime. Elsewhere, the flavour of sliced pork shoulder, served cold as a starter, is brought out by plummy, salty dip with a glug of fish sauce, and a red pa neng curry has the requisite thick coconut sweetness, gradually building up to a pleasing warmth. Glaswegian Thai food fans tend to have their favourite place and stick to it, but here is a stalwart that new diners should explore. + Choice on the menu - The bench seating is awkward

✱ Wau Cafe MALAYSIAN

27 Old Dumbarton Road, West End, G3 8RD (Map 9: D5, 134) 0141 339 2461 | Mon–Thu & Sat 1–10pm; Fri 2.30pm– 10pm. Closed Sun. Kids; T/A.

Unlike the other Malaysian restaurants in Glasgow who include Chinese or Thai dishes on their menu, the Wau Café concentrates on Malaysian Malay food. The small informal café, with only room for a handful of tables, has a disproportionately extensive menu offering a wide range of specialities including rendang and sambal dishes and an impressive array of side dishes including soups, omelettes and rice cubes. The genuinely friendly proprietor is often on hand to take you through the menu and make suggestions and generally advocate Malay cuisine. Roti canai (literally rolledout bread) is served with a curry sauce rich with chilli and given a fragrant lift from star anise and lime leaves, while skewers of expertly chargrilled chicken and fresh home-made satay sauce are smokily reminiscent of a Kuala Lumpur market. For a substantial main hot and sour kari laksa is packed with prawns, scallops, fishcake, delicate tofu puffs and rice noodles and is a deep slurpable coconut chilli broth. Incredibly reasonable prices and proximity to several west end watering holes should make this a firm favourite. + Authentic Malay cuisine at incredibly reasonable prices - Small, no-frills, eating area

Wudon JAPANESE

535 Great Western Road, West End, G12 8HN (Map 9: F1, 56) 0141 357 3033, wudon-noodlebar.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon– 11pm, Sun 12.30–10pm. HW £12.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £6.50 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Wudon is a family-run enterprise on Great Western Road headed up by the Wu sisters and offering a mix of Chinese and Japanese dishes with nods to Thai and Indonesian cuisine. The website boasts that the restaurant is about ‘more than just noodles’ and curries and made-to-order fresh and raw sushi are offered alongside big rice bowls and tossed salads. Ap oong, meltingly soft diced duck and crispy deep-fried rice noodles wrapped in crunchy green iceberg lettuce is a delightful mix of soft and crunchy, hot and cold. A light tempura selection has the unusual addition of a fan of battered noodles giving extra bite and lifting the presentation. A sizzling plate of teriyaki beef, soused in a dark sweet sauce, makes for a theatrical main, while the katsu ho fun, a large deep bowl of noodles with breaded prawns and egg, is both comforting and substantial. A side dish of aromatic garlic rice a gives a pungent moreish lift to whatever you order and friendly efficient service ensures a rewarding experience. + Friendly, speedy service - Could add more chilli heat

brightly coloured plates, bright lighting, and big flat screens flashing Japanese cartoons can make entering any Yo! Sushi a little like visiting a kitsch hi-tech Japanese factory. The extensive sushi menu comes with detailed descriptions and suggestions for dish combinations for newbies, and well-trained staff are on hand to aid those not familiar with the set up – the greeting, ‘Have you been to a Yo! Sushi before?’ may make it seem like visiting a Japanese Harvester, but an explanation of the various buttons, water fountains condiments and colour-codes explains the corporate philosophy and adds to the fun. In addition to a variety of sushi rolls, sashimi, and salad bowls, the hot menu offers a range of deep-fried dishes, soups and noodles for those not totally comfortable with the cold/raw fish idea. Beef tataki sashimi is well matched with its coriander dressing, salmon dragon rolls are both colourful and fresh tasting, and chicken katsu curry, a best seller, is delightfully moreish. The relaxed setting and the fun atmosphere can make it easy to lose time and reach for that extra plate. + Clean flavours and consistency of experience - Seeing someone else snatch the plate you’ve had your eye on

Wagamama NOODLE & SUSHI BARS

• 97–103 West George Street, City Centre, G2 1PB (Map 6: D3, 115) 0141 229 1468, wagamama.com | Mon–Sat noon–11pm; Sun 12.30–10pm Veg; HW £14.25; Kids; Wh; T/A. £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner) • Silverburn Centre, Barrhead Road, G53 6QR, 0141 880 5877 | Mon–Sat 11.30am– 10pm; Sun noon–9pm Veg; HW £14.25; Kids; Wh; T/A. £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

The enduring popularity of Japanese food in the UK is in no small part down to this national chain of dependable and popular noodle bars. The original Glasgow branch in West George Street is easily reached from all the main shopping thoroughfares and city centre offices, while its younger sister is to be found in the Silverburn shopping centre. Both can get pretty busy at peak times, though queues move quickly, as customers are whisked down to their bench seats by hip young staff. Favourite orders include katsu curries and teppan-fried noodle dishes; side orders like gyozas (steamed Japanese dumplings) and yakitori (skewered, marinated chicken). But more than any of these, diners tend to opt for the ‘ramen’ – zesty, hearty big bowls of ramen noodles in broth, filled with thinly sliced meat (or seafood) and lots of eastern vegetables. Slurping is encouraged. + Choice on the menu - The bench seating is awkward

FISH With world famous sources of fabulous seafood on its doorstep, it’s a wonder Glasgow doesn’t have more outlets for whipping up gastronomic treats from the fruits of our lochs and coastal waters. Overfishing and sustainability issues are always to the fore and many restaurants have set up entire infrastructures to make sure the fish reaching your plate is from properly managed sources. And lucky for us a new generation of skilled, creative chefs are willing to test their flair and dexterity on this temperamental but rewarding fare. Reviewer: Malcolm McGonigle

Arisaig

1 Merchant Sq, Merchant City, G1 1NY See Scottish

The Cabin

996–968 Dumbarton Rd, West End See Scottish

The Chippy Doon The Lane

84 Buchanan Street, McCormick Lane, City Centre, G1 3AJ See Takeaway & Home Delivery

City Merchant

97–99 Candleriggs, Merchant City See Scottish

Crabby Macs Seafood Café 61 Otago Street, West End, G12 8PQ (Map 9: F2, 64) 0141 337 2282, thepartnersrestaurants.co.uk/ crabbymacs | Tue–Sun noon–10pm. Closed Mon. [Bar open: Tue–Sun 11am–11pm. Closed Mon.] Pre; HW £15.95; Kids; Wh. £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Based in the former Tattie Macs, Crabby’s is the ideal relaxed, friendly destination for those who may be curious but unconfident about delving into the magical world of Scottish seafood. The small shopfront opens into a large warm contemporary setting with chic black and white wallpaper, grey paintwork, lots of mirrors, wooden floors and tables attended by lively and chatty service staff who help keep the experience appealing and fun. The food is entertaining too – all ampedup flavours and stylish flourishes. Starters of perfectly cooked scallops are given a sprightly lemon lift served on a bed of sweet roasted peppers and pak choi while the potted crab

Yo! Sushi JAPANESE

House of Fraser, 45 Buchanan Street, City Centre, G1 3HL (Map 6: D5, 97) 0141 413 2231, yosushi.com | Mon–Sat 11.30am–10pm; Sun noon–10pm. Veg; HW £14.40; Wh; T/A. £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner) Silverburn Shopping Centre, Barrhead Road, Southside, G53 6QR (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 555 0042, yosushi.com | Mon–Fri noon–9pm; Sat noon–8pm; Sun noon–7pm. Veg; HW £14.40; Wh; T/A. £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The long snaking conveyor belt of

twofatladies congratulates The List on the compilation, yet again, of the most comprehensive and impartial guide to the dining scene in scotland. No small achievement – and the most awaited publication of the year for both diners and restaurateurs alike.

twofatladies 1989–2012 Celebrating 23 years of being the fishiest business in Glasgow

www.twofatladiesrestaurant.com www.thescottishfishmonger.com The List Eating & Drinking Guide 143

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thermidor is light in texture but full of fresh sea flavour served with a crunchy, garlicky breadcrumb topping. From the mains a pearly sea bass cooked in paupiette along with a tricky mixture of vegetables and scallops has a sweet undertow and rich herby juices while the seafood curry is surprisingly light and zingy with bright Thai notes and fragrant rice. A pleasant informal buzz hangs around the place and its commitment to European style approachability is laudable. + Lively, colourful and fun - Sometimes hectic

Crabshakk

Local Seafood Restaurant Daily menu of fresh scottish seafood Gin Cocktail Bar South Facing Champagne Garden Award winning Cocktails Local Beers and Ales 1125 Argyle Street G3 8ND 0141 2222 884 info@theﬁnniestonbar.com

1114 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8TD (Map 9: F6, 107) 0141 334 6127, crabshakk.com | Tue–Sat noon–10pm; Sun noon–4.30pm; Closed Mon. [Bar open: Tue–Sat 11am–midnight, Sun 11am–6pm; Closed Mon.] HW £18.95; Kids; Wh. £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

All senses are stimulated on entering this lively little enterprise – the effusive rush of ginger, chillis and herbs, the burble of chatty voices and the heartening sizzle of fresh seafood in the pan, creates an explosion of gastric expectation. Crabshakk exploits its petite stature by creating an informal atmosphere where diners can sit at a chic bar and watch their food being expertly prepared, squeeze into the occasional small table lining the walls or take a roomier space on the mezzanine. The diminutive menu features scallops, lobster and whitebait, augmented by a wide choice of daily catches. A starter of three titchy crab cakes feels a tad miserly but packs a powerful punch with its lemon infused white meat, chilli and parsley. From the specials, saffron-laced risotto fortified by chorizo butter makes a smoky aromatic base for a light and flaky turbot while the large fillet of John Dory steamed in a little pool of peas, shallots and bright white wine entertains on every mouthful. Engaging and bubbly service keeps the mood upbeat and helps make a visit to crabshakk feel like joining a buzzing party where the hosts are excellent cooks. + Fun, fresh and feisty - Forget about elbow room

Creedence

48a West Regent Street, City Centre, G2 2ND (Map 6: D3, 53) 0141 353 1301 | Tue–Thu 5–9.30pm; Fri/Sat 5–10.30pm. Closed Sun/Mon. Pre; HW £15; Kids. £17 (dinner)

Passionate about Seafood 61-65 RoseStreet Street 157 Hope Edinburgh EH2 2NH Glasgow G2 2UQ Reservations 0141 0131 572 225 1405 5979 Reservations 157 Hope 61-65 RoseStreet Street Glasgow G2 Edinburgh EH22UQ 2NH Reservations Reservations 0141 0131 572 225 1405 5979

www.mussel-inn.com

After smaller operations on Arran, the co-owners of Creedence decided to take the plunge and bring their ‘casual seafood dining’ to Glasgow – a style of restaurant mysteriously rare in the city given the teeming waters nearby. While the intended vibe and the décor of this cosy basement venue, with its warm tones, wooden floors and tables with sunken ‘chuck buckets’ for the shellfish detritus, has nods to deep south USA in murals, music and mood, the menu is distinctly west coast Scotland with simple dishes that let the ultra-freshness of the local catch shine. The menu is grouped by categories of prep, such as ‘cold plates’, ‘grilled plates’ and ‘pan-seared plates’, featuring oysters, squat lobsters and langoustines, clams and scallops. There are a couple of steaks – with a high roller’s surf n turf at £45 – and platters that vary with what comes through the door each day. [Not open for a full review at time of going to press.]

The Finnieston

1125 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8ND See Bars & Pubs

✱ Gamba

225a West George Street, City Centre, G2 2ND (Map 6: C3, 57) 0141 572 0899, gamba.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5pm–10pm; Fri noon–2.30pm, 5pm–10.30pm; Sat noon–2.30pm, 5pm– 10.30pm; Sun 5pm–9pm. LC; Pre; HW £19. £16.95 (set lunch) / £32 (dinner)

The sign of a good fish restaurant is how well the front and back of house work in close synchronicity. Gamba has that instinctive, almost telepathic communication between cook and floor staff meaning everyone is alert to the unique properties of your order. Housed in a large basement location with muted coffee and cream décor, soft lighting and a small welcoming bar, Gamba has the air of a fine dining destination and the added bonus of an adventurous, knowledgeable chef. Starters may include the popular and bounteous fish soup loaded with hearty chunks of yielding prawn dumplings shored up with crabmeat, coriander and vivid ginger. Elsewhere a stylish sashimi is intense and lush, served as thick strips of translucent yellow fin tuna stacked up like a classy rose with the perfect accompaniment of spiky pickled ginger and wasabi. A main of perky line-caught sea bass on a bed of sweetened beetroot and a horseradish cream is a fantastic mélange of smooth harmonious flavours, while a hearty chunk of griddled swordfish is given a sharp and fruity hue with its accompaniment of apple and Portland crab. + Cooking with flair and imagination - Prices to suit

Gandolfi Fish to Go

86 Albion Street, Merchant City, G1 1NY See Takeaway & Home Delivery

✱ Gandolfi Fish

84 Albion Street, Merchant City, G1 1NY (Map 7: C2, 24) 0141 552 9475, cafegandolfi.com | Sun–Thu noon– 10pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm. Pre/Post; HW £18.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £14.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Sister to the famed cafe just down the street, this fish-focussed member of the Gandolfi family is already renowned for clever cooking and solid sourcing. A recent refit (to make way for ‘Fish -To- Go’ take away next door) sees the re-siting of the stylish bar alongside the outsized shades, white tables, dark leather seating. The menu looks small but closer inspection shows a wide range of preparations for your oysters, mussels, lobster or langoustines. Starter of the classic prawn cocktail is heaving with plump juicy Scottish prawns while a caramelised pear is positively dazzling with its topping of sweet peppers, salty pecorino and a dash of truffle. A main of peat smoked haddock, already rampant with smouldering flavours is given an extra nudge by a perfectly cooked poached egg, while baked monkfish in a hot and sour sauce is bright and fruity with the added delight of a perky raita and chapati. Service is warm and genial and a good sized wine list rounds off the experience. + Chefs’ expertise on show - Disappointing veggie options

Merchant Chippie

155 High Street, Merchant City, G1 1PH See Takeaway & Home Delivery

✱ Mussel Inn

157 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 2UQ (Map 6: C3, 59) 0141 572 1405, musselinn.com | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5–10pm; Sat noon–10pm; Sun 12.30– 10pm. [Bar open: Licensed till 1am for diners.]

Pre; HW £14; Kids; Wh. £7.50 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Mussel Inns aren’t just restaurants but the end point of a diligent infrastructure of sustainable fresh food that begins at seed in West Coast lochs – a truly remarkable operation that has to be commended for re-introducing many Scots to the glories of their natural larder. The Hope Street outlet is a bright and breezy affair with wooden floors large windows and a busy open kitchen. An adventurous menu is sprinkled with fresh ingredients such as pak choi, crème fraiche, baby corn, feta, herbs and spices that help keep the focus on bright and punchy flavours. A half kilo pot of mussels comes with a choice of fragrant sauces such as a brawny roast red pepper and pesto with sparkling basil notes. From the mains a skewer of king scallops wrapped in pancetta is moist, smoky and juicy, served on a bed of peppers and wilted spinach that creates a balanced and harmonious set of rich flavours. Friendly approachable staff and an informal arty atmosphere helps keeps the Mussel Inn deservedly busy all year round. + Skilful, top-notch cooking - Limited wine list

Rogano

11 Exchange Place, City Centre, G1 3AN (Map 6: D4, 75) 0141 248 4055, roganoglasgow.com | Mon–Sun noon– 2.30pm, 6–10.30pm. Café: Mon–Sun noon–11pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am– 11.45pm; Sun 12.30–11.45pm.] Veg; Pre; HW £20; Kids. £16.50 (set lunch) / £40 (dinner)

For many years the go-to-place for fine dining in luxuriant surroundings, Rogano has been serving high flyers, celebs, and expense account businesspeople for nigh on seven decades. The plush interiors speak of old world wealth with bronze mirrors, polished art-deco flourishes and circular booths. Choose between the five-course fixed menu for £40 or £75 including champagne and wine, or the à la carte where classics like Cullen skink, moules marinières and lobster thermidor are lined up with smoked venison, pork belly and roast rabbit. An arty starter of polenta-crusted goats cheese with its accompanying horseradish pannacotta dominating the plate is distinctly mildmannered despite its lively ingredients while a main of grilled sea bass is perfectly cooked, served on a chubby risotto cake in a pool of silken saffron and mussel cream sauce dotted with tiny vegetable chunks. Desserts include an exemplary baked Alaska with crunchy honeycomb trimmings that add a scorched edge to the velvety ice-cream core. Service is professional and precise with a discreet group of fast-moving, aproned men maintaining a proficient formality. + Elegant and professional - Flavours missing some oomph

✱ Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery

652 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8UF (Map 9: G6, off) 0141 221 8188, twofatladiesrestaurant.com | Mon– Sat noon–3pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun noon–9pm. Veg; Pre/Post; HW £17.25; Kids. £16.50 (set lunch) / £27 (dinner)

The Buttery has long been a by-word for quality in Glasgow so the Two Fat Ladies franchise raised some expectations by keeping the name on moving in. And they didn’t disappoint. A splendid baroque Victorian bar leads to a tartan carpeted wood panelled dining area with a Downton Abbey vibe – all pressed tablecloths,

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In association with

Glasgow sociable service adds to the urbane atmosphere. + Expert handling of fresh ingredients - Generic bowl of veg with every meal

Two Fat Ladies

✱ HITLIST FISH ✱ Gamba Contemporary setting, superior service and stylish cooking ✱ Gandolfi Fish Chic and clever cooking with a warm, friendly atmosphere ✱ Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery Meticulously classic and formal with modern twists ✱ Mussel Inn Fun and feisty with smart contemporary fare candlelight and formal dressed staff. The food is also ornate. Starter of oak smoked salmon is slinky and vibrant, served with a mini fishcake loaded with prickly crab flavours in a pool of lime and spinach purée. Elsewhere the home-made ravioli has a buttery skin and rich ratatouille filling whose scattergun flavours blend nicely with the smooth orange and pesto cream. A main course of chunky pan fried halibut is moist and tender with just enough herby accompaniments to add some kick while still letting the fish hold court. Creative flair and expertise in the kitchen are the hallmarks of this enterprise, augmented by a good wine list and skilled, thoughtful serving staff. It’s easy to see why the Two Fat Ladies Buttery operation is always busy. + Classic formal dining - The excellent vegetarian menu should be offered on entry

88 Dumbarton Road, West End, G11 6NX (Map 9: C3, 15) 0141 339 1944, twofatladiesrestaurant.com | Mon–Thu noon–3pm, 5.30–10pm; Fri/Sat noon– 3pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun 1–9pm. Pre/Post; HW £15.95; Kids; Wh. £14.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

This is a restaurant with the chutzpah to put its kitchen in the window – aspiring chefs who want a master class in how to prepare and cook fresh Scottish fish need only stop and gawk. The small room is laid out galley style with dark walls, crushed velvet seating and a lively gold plaster relief adding a touch of gilt. A reassuringly small, seasonally adjusted menu highlights the best of the Scottish catch with an occasional meat and veggie dish too. Starters may include a lush mini fish pie with chunky haddock and prawns in a bright creamy sauce or a non-fish option of goat’s cheese quiche with a firm delicate pastry and nutty mushrooms. From the mains, plaice fillet comes packed with herby king prawn mousse, wrapped in smoky Parma ham and served in a pool of silky buerre blanc. Puddings are rich and brawny, so leave room for the perennial favourite of crème brulee trio – hazelnut, spiced plums and kahlua. Service is nimble and professional and helps this part of the TFL operation to feel relaxed and homely. + Easy ambience and nicely priced - Elbow room at a premium in some parts of the room

Urban Bar & Brasserie

23–25 St Vincent Place, City Centre See Bistros & Brasseries

FRENCH Ah, France, the godfather of all things gastronomical, the garcon of fantastic service and the daddy of fine wine. French cuisine is famed, among other things, for its use of excellent ingredients sourced from a particular restaurant’s regional environment. As Scotland’s natural larder is overflowing with some excellent ingredients, local flavours and French cuisine should be natural bedfellows. In this section you’ll find everything from frogs legs to fois gras – served up with lashings of elegance and a certain pride that comes as standard with cuisine inspired by one of the world’s biggest foodie nations. The one welcome newcomer aside, all the restaurants are fairly well-established which speaks volumes in tough times like these. Reviewer: Erica Goodey

Le Bistro Beaumartin

161 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 2UQ (Map 6: C3, 107) 0141 226 4442, lebistrobeaumartin.co.uk | Mon–Sat 11am–3pm, 4.30pm–11pm. Closed Sun. Pre; HW £16; Kids. £14.50 (set lunch)

Stylish and elegant at the front yet homely at the back, this newcomer on the scene is like a kitsch Frenchman’s front room: all black and white photographs on the walls, rich thick wallpaper and retro bistro chairs. Co-owner Richard Dupupet ran his own successful bistros in Paris for 11 years before coming to Glasgow with head chef Andrew Stott, to pair their

FRENCH ✱ Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or Creative flavours served up with a touch of old-school class. ✱ La Vallée Blanche Uniqueyet-chic restaurant with cute quirks and some truly mind-blowing dishes. gastronomical knowledge with Scotland’s rich, natural larder. To start, the homecured salmon marinated in honey, dill and sparkling wine ought to be fantastic – however, the marinade doesn’t make much of an appearance on the palate. Confit duck arrives looking like a duck shepherd’s pie but it’s actually a beautiful dish of light creamy potatoes and chunks of spiced duck in a rich, meaty sauce. The Ayrshire-sourced steak however, is juicy, tender, and out of this world. For dessert, a black cherry flan has the taste and appearance of genuine French home-cooking: bulbous cherries burst in your mouth alongside pockets of fluffy, creamy-sweet flan - amazing. It’s early days, but take this restaurant for what it is – authentic French bistro style food – and you will find some real elements of excellence. + A rekindling of the Auld Alliance love affair - It’s not fine dining

Bistro at One Devonshire Gardens 1 Devonshire Gardens, West End See Scottish

Two Fat Ladies in the City

La Bonne Auberge

118a Blythswood Street, City Centre, G2 4EG (Map 6: C2, 34) 0141 847 0088, twofatladiesrestaurant.com | Mon–Thu noon–3pm, 5.30–10pm; Fri/Sat noon– 3pm, 5.30–11pm; Sun 1–9pm. Pre/Post; HW £16.75; Wh. £16 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

With its curved windows and polished wooden surround it’s easy to spot this plush sibling of the TFL franchise situated just shy of Blythswood Square. The swooping artistry is continued inside where latticed ironwork fish dive beneath undulating ceilings. As befits a restaurant that takes two deliveries of fresh fish a day the menu is varied and adventurous with chefs eagerly whipping up the occasional kale puree, squash fondant or almond butter to enhance their expertly primed dishes. A starter of crab tian is a loose nest of meat tinged with vibrant lime and served on dabs of artichoke and crème fraîche with a charge of chilli punching through. Seasonal inspirations from the mains may include a creamy fillet of ling, panfried and rolled in a paprika crust and served on a silky mushroom stroganoff or the less complex but still sumptuous plaice swathed in parsley butter and scattered with sharp capers and spiky brown shrimp – contrasting elements that tussle nicely on the tongue. A small selection of chic puddings and informed,

✱ HITLIST

161 West Nile Street, City Centre, G1 2RL (Map 6: D2, 30) 0141 352 8310, labonneauberge.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon– 2.15pm, 5–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–2.15pm, 5–10.15pm; Sun 12.30–2.15pm, 5–9.15pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 10.30am–midnight; Sun 12.30pm–midnight.] Pre/Post; HW £16.95; Kids; Wh. £7.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Crabby Macs Seafood Café (page 143): Tattie Mac’s with added seafood

Tacked on to the reception area of the Holiday Inn, the overly fussy décor of La Bonne Auberge may make you think that the restaurant hasn’t changed much since the late 1970s when French food became popular in the UK. Still, when the starters arrive the surroundings fall away, as the food is really fantastic. The chicken liver pate is smooth, rich and infused with tangy cognac and delicate overtones of garlic, balanced with red onion marmalade and toasted brioche. Even though the hot and sour soup may be more influenced by the Thai restaurant next door than French fare, it is a triumph of a broth loaded with formidable flavours: a hot fusion of lemongrass and creamy coconut with hearty chunks of soft poached chicken and vicious red chillis lurking in the bottom. Mains include venison loin – which although wonderfully pink and served with lovely redcurrant sauce and creamed cabbage – has too much sinew to be first-class. To

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Glasgow finish a winning cheese platter marrying French and Scottish cheeses could be rounded off by a port to really go all-out old-school. + Could be a great place to take mum - Venison cut let meal down

✱ Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or

176 West Regent Street, City Centre, G2 4RL (Map 6: C3, 37) 0141 248 3801, brianmaule.com | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5–10pm; Sat noon–11pm. Closed Sun. Pre; HW £19; Kids. £17.50 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

Trained in France, and having lead the Michelin-starred La Gavroche kitchen in London, one expects Mr Maule to conjure up truly accomplished dishes. And he does. Everything from the crisp white table cloths, black leather chairs to the sharply dressed serving staff whisper that you’re about to have an exceptional meal. For those that don’t fancy the prawn and squid ink lasagne to start, there is the trio of duck: rillette, foie gras and a near-sashimi of thinly sliced pink fillet with a mound of candied pistachios, exquisitely presented. Main courses are just as elegant. For example, fleshy fillet of Arctic char is served with soft little dumplings of prawn and pork, a creamy red pepper sauce and wilted pak choi –the subtle hints of ginger and spice not interfering with the delicious flavour of the fish. To finish, desserts are simple and understated – but very good. Perhaps in homage to Glasgow, all portions are unexpectedly large. + Highly accomplished, elegant food - Desserts lack the wow factor

Malmaison

278 West George Street, City Centre, G2 4LL (Map 6: B3, 39) 0141 572 1000, malmaison.com | Mon–Fri 7–10am, noon– 2.30pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sat 8–11am, noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun 8–11am, noon–2.15pm, 5.30–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30–midnight.] Pre; HW £17.50; Kids; Wh. £22 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

With its low cavernous ceiling, warm dark brown and red hues and atmospheric lighting, the Mal is surprisingly unpretentious. The menu is a collection of classic British dishes, which swim across the channel for inspiration, class and a little Gallic swagger. To start, a teasingly translucent poached egg wobbles away on top of a dish until the slightest tap sends it oozing down through gigantic, meaty mushrooms and a slightly sweet bed of toast. For mains, guinea fowl is

well-cooked: with a hint of pink and a touch of gaminess, complimented by a light, creamy sauce of mushrooms and leeks. Purists will point out that in addition to the haddock rarebit’s topping of cheese, it should probably come with toast. This aside, it comes across as an elegant plate of food, accompanied with a delightful quail and black pudding Scotch egg. For desert, Sauternes-soaked raisins on the crème caramel are a thoroughly grown-up combination of juicy fruit and sophisticated booziness, topped off by an espresso with its own little gingerbread man. + Auld Alliance fusion of classic French and British dishes - No toast with the rarebit

Restaurant at Blythswood Square

11 Blythswood Square, City Centre See Scottish

✱ La Vallée Blanche

360 Byres Road, West End, G12 8AY (Map 9: D1, 45) 0141 334 3333, lavalleeblanche. com | Tue–Fri noon–2.15pm, 5.30– 10.00pm; Sat noon–10pm; Sun noon– 3.15pm, 6.30pm–10pm; Closed Mon. Pre; HW £16.95. £14.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Named after an off-piste ski run in the French Alps, La Vallee Blanche is a cosy log cabin style restaurant, with rich red upholstery, cute antler light fittings and wine racks in the walls. Perhaps it’s the knowledgable, well-timed service, the upmarket-yet-laid-back atmosphere or the après-ski style décor – but there’s something intrinsically chic-andunique about this place. Presentation is impeccable in starters such as braised Ramsey’s pig cheeks – soft, flaky mounds of pork, glazed in jelly and served with black pudding and a frisée salad intermingled with nuggets of bacon. Scallops have the OMG-factor: salty and seared to perfection with pink slivers of Toulouse sausage and a Jerusalem artichoke purée. The sea bream main course is a faultless composition of texture and flavour: crisp seared fillets are submerged in a glistening pool of caper and lemon beurre noissette, the soft meat of the fish peppered with delightfully crisp croutons and sharpened in flavour by the slick of butter. Desserts such as the chocolate and peanut butter delice, with popcorn ice cream and banana cremaux, are so eye-rollingly good that diners may end up putting Meg Ryan to shame. + Inspirational cooking, lovely atmosphere - View of Waitrose’s car park

INDIAN The city has won the Curry Capital of Britain title four times in the last decade, which gives you some indication about just how enamoured Glaswegians are with Indian food. This rich tradition goes back to the 1960s, and there are some restaurants that have been around since that time. Traditional curryhouses like these continue to prove popular with tourists and locals, but the city has moved with the times and there are also award-winning contemporary restaurants with modern takes on Indian cuisine. A recent trend for thali and small tapas-style plates continues, and while the ubiquitous buffet remains popular, it is just one way to enjoy an Indian experience. Whatever method you chose, and whatever restaurant, a friendly welcome and good food will follow. Reviewers: Jennifer Armitage, Gary Duncan, Kevin Scott

Akbar’s

573–581 Sauchiehall Street, West End, G3 7PQ (Map 9: H5, 92) 0141 222 2258, akbars.co.uk | Mon–Thu 5pm–midnight; Fri 4.30pm–12.30am; Sat 4pm–12.30am; Sun 2–11pm. Veg; HW £12.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £16 (dinner)

A bold new arrival on the Glasgow curry scene, Akbar’s 11th UK restaurant is its first in Scotland. This is a large venue (formerly the Tiffin Rooms) where you’re never more than a few feet from an enthusiastic member of staff. Hundreds of tangerine lanterns flicker against mirrored walls but, with menus presented on laminated cards, the mood remains unpretentious. Beautifully presented starters include keema and cheese samosa, a delightfully simple yet indulgent snack, and king prawn tikka – fat spicy prawns served with a smoky strawberry dip. There are numerous baltis on the menu, which are sure to find a devoted following. The chicken and mushroom option is fairly mild, with mixed spice and coriander. Desi lamb palak is hotter, and rich with spinach, ginger and garlic. The recommended accompaniment is naan bread, served

Le Bistro Beaumartin (page 145): a welcome newcomer on the scene, offering an informal taste of French cuisine

on an elegant tall stand, and, while the dessert menu is surprisingly extensive, if you opt for an Indian dessert such as milky ras malai, you won’t be disappointed. Opened in March 2012, there is an early sense that Akbar’s and Glasgow are sizing each other up, and it appears they will get along just fine. + Eye-catching décor and slick service - Not a place for intimate dining

Alishan Tandoori

250 Battlefield Road, Southside, G42 9HU (Map 8: E6, off) 0141 632 5294 / 0141 636 1811, alishantandoori.co.uk | Sun– Wed 5pm–midnight; Thu–Sat noon–2pm, 5pm–midnight. Veg; HW £12.95; Kids; T/A; D. £7.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

A familiar spot in suburban Battlefield, Alishan Tandoori has been delighting locals for over 25 years. After passing between two huge fish tanks that keep takeaway customers largely out of view of the small dining space, diners can flick through pages of familiar Indian and Pakistani dishes, along with some intriguing house specialities. The menu contains fascinating descriptions of many dishes, which help make decisions on what to choose. From familiar starters, the egg and mushroom puri is a good example of this popular appetizer. More interesting is a spicy mulligatawny soup, dense with meat, lentils and vegetables. The range of mains is mind-boggling, but some do stand out. Co-owner Chico’s choices include a thick maha masala with chicken tikka and minced lamb in a ginger-infused sauce that includes the interesting addition of sweetcorn, nicely balancing the heat. The masalandar range is vibrant to the eye, and sweet and sour on the palate. Alishan gets the basics spot on, and that’s one of the reasons customers keep on coming back; the friendly, helpful staff is another. + Huge range to choose from - Tables a bit close

Ashoka

• 19 Ashton Lane, West End, G12 8SJ (Map 9: D2, 36) 0141 337 1115, ashokarestaurants.com | Mon–Thu 5pm– midnight; Fri/Sat 5pm–1am; Sun 5–11pm. Veg; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; T/A; D. £7.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner) • The Quay, Springﬁeld Quay, Southside, G5 8NP (Map 8: E1, off) 0141 429 4492 | Mon–Sun noon–11pm. Veg; Pre; HW £12.95; Kids; T/A. £6.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner) • 9 Kirk Road, Bearsden, G61 3RG, 0141 570 0075 | Mon–Sun 5–11pm. Veg; Pre; HW £11.95; Kids; T/A; D. £16 (dinner) • 268 Clarkston Road, Southside, G44 3EA (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 637 0711, ashokasouthside.info | Mon–Sun 5–11pm Veg; Pre; HW £12.95; Kids; T/A; D. £16 (dinner) • 1284 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8AB (Map 9: D5, 116) 0141 339 3371 | Mon–Thu 5pm–midnight; Fri/Sat 5pm–1am; Sun 5–11pm. Veg; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; T/A; D. £20 (dinner)

You’d be forgiven for thinking you had stepped back in time upon entering the charming Ashton Lane branch of the popular Ashoka chain. Things haven’t changed much since they first opened their doors 20 years ago – but that’s exactly the point, they don’t need to. They draw a fiercely loyal regular crowd, and it’s easy to see why. The menu offers traditional Indian grub, with firm British roots. The king prawn butterfly starter is perfect for sharing, with four large, juicy prawns in a peppery butter sauce; though the chicken masala poori is let down only by the slightly chewy pancake. All is forgiven with the delicious lamb satrangi

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Glasgow though – large, tender chunks of meat in a rich bhoona style sauce, with an added garlic pickle kick to spice things up. At the other end of the spectrum, the wonderfully creamy chicken pasanda is mild yet full of flavour, with chunks of toasted cashews adding welcomed texture. The chain has venues dotted all over the city, offering more or less the same hearty mix of pakoras, tandooris and masalas at reasonable prices. + Excellent location - Can get very cramped when busy

Assam’s

57 West Regent Street, City Centre, G2 2AE (Map 6: D3, 54) 0141 331 1980, assams.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–3pm, 5–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–midnight; Sun 2–11pm. Veg; Pre; BYOB (£2.50, £3.50 fizz); HW £14.95; Kids; T/A; D. £7.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Assam’s has quickly affirmed itself as a City Centre mainstay, having only been in its current premises two years. The restaurant is grand and elegant, with split level dining and huge luxurious circular booths – it certainly has the air of fine dining about it. The management are hands on, and offer friendly, attentive service, whether it’s for a quick buffet lunch or full à la carte. The menu is contemporary, and everything sounds appealing – their haddock pakora is of the best in town. The mixed platter starter for two is a magnificent melange of barbecued meats, resting on a sizzling platter of onions. The mains offer a good mix of Indian staples and house specialities, with a healthy array of vegetarian options. The gobi gosht is a delightful mix of melt in the mouth lamb contrasting superbly with crisp, crunchy cauliflower; while the butter chicken delicately balances cardamom with more subtle spices, in a velvety sauce. With fixed price feasts, affordable buffet lunches, and tapas-style eating available nearly every day, there is definitely something for everyone at Assam’s. + Well prepared, thoughtful curries - No disabled access

✱ Balbir’s

7 Church Street, West End, G11 5JP (Map 9: C3, 16) 0141 339 7711, balbirsrestaurants.co.uk | Sun–Thu 5–10.30pm; Fri/Sat 5–11pm. Veg; HW £12.95 white, £13.95 red; Kids; T/A; D. £21 (dinner)

Balbir Sumal’s years of experience in catering for Glasgow’s curry lovers distinctively shines through in this eponymous West End branch. It may feel more like an upmarket European eatery, but the appetizing aromas that assault you as you enter firmly remind you of its origins. The dining area is vast and majestic, with sparse splashes of colour brought in on grand Indian canvases. Staff are plentiful, each attentively going about their duties. The house signature starter of tandoori salmon is succulent and spicy and set off well against tangy apple and carrot purées, while the chickpeas in the bhatura chana retain their crunch in a highly spiced sauce. Main courses are diverse, with influences from every corner. The gigantic prawns in the jhinga acharri are sweet and juicy, while retaining bite, and complemented by the sharp pickled flavours of the sauce. Chicken and lamb dishes are aplenty, with the creamy, nutty passanda being a real crowd-pleaser. Plans are afoot to incorporate sous vide cooking, which can only add to their already outstanding healthy lifestyle approach to cooking. Highly recommended. + Elegant, refined cuisine - Not open for lunch

✱ Balbir’s Saffron Lounge

61 Kilmarnock Road, Southside, G41 3YR (Map 8: A5, 21) 0141 632 8564, balbirsrestaurants.co.uk | Sun–Thu 4.30–10.30pm; Fri/Sat 4.30–11pm. Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £17 (dinner)

With mood-lighting, dark décor and a grand piano opposite an oak bar, this deceptively large Shawlands restaurant doesn’t feel like an Indian, but that’s part of its charm. And charming it is, with candles on tables and jazz on the stereo while in the kitchen, chefs have been working hard to create a new menu that sees the Saffron Lounge become more than just the original Balbir’s little brother. Starters include batata wada – crisp balls of deep fried potato with a mustard kick, while a kati kebab has chicken wrapped in a soft roti that is bursting with coriander. A light lamb saag brimming with spinach and broccoli exemplifies the restaurants use of rapeseed oil in place of ghee. A butter marasal is rich and sweet with tender chunks of chicken, while for braver palates the chicken xacuti is as fiery as its reputation suggests, but nicely balanced with coconut and tamarind. Saffron Lounge may have been going for four years now, but with live music and a revamped menu, it’s recently come of age. + Rapeseed oil makes for lighter meals - Not open for lunch

Balti Club

66 Woodlands Road, West End, G3 6HA See Takeaway & Home Delivery

Banana Leaf

• 76B Old Dumbarton Road, West End, G3 8RE (Map 9: D5, 121) 0141 334 4445, thebananaleaf.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon– 11pm; Sun noon–10.30pm. Veg; T/A; D. £6.50/£7.50 (set lunch) / £9 (dinner) • 105 Albert Drive, Southside, G41 2SU (Map 8: D1, off) 0141 423 9692 | Mon–Fri noon–11pm; Sat/Sun 10am–11pm Veg; BYOB (no charge); T/A; D. £3.99 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

The Banana Leaf offers good value, authentic Indian food. From an extensive menu, the manager is happy to make recommendations and even demonstrate cooking to curious customers. Don’t miss their famous dosas – huge lentil and rice pancakes, thin, crispy and rolled around meat or veg. The minced lamb dosa is two feet long, and served with spiced lentil dip, and coconut and tomato chutneys, introducing the cafe’s rule that ‘the more you dip, the better it tastes’. There are plenty of vegetarian options, such as fried, spiced cauliflower, or bagara baingan; soft aubergines with mustard seeds and coriander in a sweet tomato sauce. Many of the dishes feature chettinadu spices, a southern Indian blend of 23 spices, prepared in-house. Aniseed and curry leaves are the dominant flavours in chicken chettinadu, which is served on the bone, along with thin, chewy chapatis. It is a testament to the quality of food in the Banana Leaf, that its numerous customers have no objections to the strip lit, pale yellow décor, but rather cherish it as a home from home. + Simple setting, complex flavours - West End not the most stylish interior

Bukharah

Lorne Hotel, 923 Sauchiehall Street, West End, G3 7TQ (Map 9: F5,105) 0141 330 1550, bukharah.com | Mon–Sun noon–midnight. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–midnight.] Veg; Pre/Post; HW £14; Kids; Wh; T/A. £8.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Exposed brickwork and duct pipes give Bukharah an industrial feel that is complemented with contemporary

furnishings, warm lighting and carefully positioned partitions that create an atmosphere more intimate than a space this size should. The award-winning menu is full of intriguing dishes, and a change in head chef hasn’t changed the quality. The chef’s platter gets proceedings off to a spicy start – the sweet and sour channa and chicken chatts are tangy and filling, while cauliflower pakora stands out. It’s the exceptional dips that deliver the hit on the tongue, however. From the mains, a rasander tava is less spicy and the gingerinfused sauce could do more, but the lamb is superb. The chef’s speciality of king prawn skewers is even better. Enormous, and marinated in chilli, coriander and ginger, the char-grilled prawns are offset with a mild sauce and rice portion. The coriander, onion and chilli-stuffed bukharha naan is worth a try, while for parties of six or more the gastronome dining gives huge choice at decent value. + Huge, delectable king prawns - Some dishes include unexpected sides

Cafe Darna

175 St Georges Road, West End, G3 6JD (Map 9: I4, 127) 0141 353 6528, cafedarna. co.uk | Mon–Sun 5pm–midnight. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £12 (dinner)

Taking over the premises previously occupied by the Abyssinian restaurant Queen of Sheba, Café Darna has done a smart job of doing the place up. The large space is divided into the main restaurant with a big open kitchen and dark wooden tables, and the takeaway area with comfy sofas. Wood floors, rich reds and Moroccan knick-knacks round off a pleasant dining space. Morocco is prevalent in the décor but only represented on the menu with daily specials in these early days, although the plan is to roll out a full menu. The Indian food is good, offering a desi-style home-cooked menu, where you control the spice levels – although the ‘desi-hot’ wasn’t particularly high up on the heat scale. Vegetable pakora are decent, while the lamb chops are deliciously spicy but can be inconsistent in size and somewhat bedraggled. Common curries are joined by special curries – all nicely priced with the inclusion of rice or naan. The kofta dishes are great, with succulent and nicely spiced meatballs, while the shahi jheenga masala is a great example of their desi dishes. + Tasty chops . . . - . . . looked like they’d been in the wars

Café India

29 Albion Street, Merchant City, G1 1LH (Map 7: C2, 33) 0141 552 5115, cafeindiaglasgow.com | Sun–Thu noon– 11pm; Fri/Sat noon–midnight. Veg; Pre; BYOB (£5, £7.50 fizz); HW £14.20; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £9.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Having recently been taken over by Tony Hussain, Café India has some big ideas and great expectations. From a Sunday morning cookery school to Indian tapas and Scottish ale evenings, there’s plenty going on. The large dining area remains divided, with a mixture of booths and regular tables, while the impressive modern open kitchen can be viewed from only one half of the restaurant. The sweet-and-sour hit from the chicken puris combines well with the fluffy fried texture of the pancake, and the crab malabar positively sings of southern-coast spices. Traditional and creative contemporary dishes sit well alongside each other – the perfectly seasoned lamb rogan josh smacks of tomato and coriander, while the abundance of juicy prawns in the jhingha south Indian curry lie in a richly layered, creamy coconut and sesame sauce. Elsewhere, a vibrant tapas menu offers all-day affordable nibbles and the separate

✱ HITLIST INDIAN ✱ Balbir’s The original curry king keeps impressing with intelligent, modern Indian food in elegant surroundings. ✱ Balbir’s Saffron Lounge Having emerged from the shadows of its big brother at Church St, Saffron Lounge offers exceptional curries in a charming, contemporary space. ✱ Café Salma Everyone is made to feel special at this split-level venue. The authentic rustic food and homely charm make it a must visit. ✱ The Den at Dining In Simple, smart and stylish cuisine at exceptional value, with outstanding value and seasonal freshness. ✱ The Dhabba Specialising in northern Indian creations, this modern restaurant continues to bring a fresh approach that can captivate anyone with an interest in Indian cuisine. ✱ Masala Twist This popular curryhouse has quickly risen through the ranks, offering quirky and tasty treats. ✱ Mother India A limited menu ensures every dish is excellent, with surroundings to enhance any occasion. ✱ Southern Spice Don’t be deceived by the simple exterior, the food inside is light, fresh and flavoursome. Merchant suite is open at weekends for unashamedly mainstream karaoke and curry evenings, with a full Indian-style buffet. + Delicious Indian-style tapas menu - The long walk to the restrooms

✱ Café Salma

523 Sauchiehall Street, West End, G3 7PQ (Map 9: H5, 87) 0141 221 7636, cafesalmaglasgow.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 2pm–midnight. Veg; Kids; T/A; D. £5.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

It’s easy to see why this Charing Cross venue remains a firm favourite with locals and beyond. Initially there’s the warm welcome from the owner, Hassan Melloul, who greets everyone like an old friend. Then the rich décor of burned orange and red throughout the ground floor – and the charming Moroccan influences of the basement – exude a relaxing, homely feel. The food rates highly too, and you can mix and match from the different menus. There’s plenty

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Glasgow to choose from on the Indian front, including mixed pakoras, crispy samosas and spiced garlic okra – all tasty, and showing skill from the busy open kitchen. Mains include hearty biryanis, fantastic grilled lamb chops and tandoori prawns, plus a plethora of kormas – including a satisfyingly sweet and creamy chicken tikka chasni. Koftas are a house speciality and can be spiced to personal taste, and the deep spinach-based sauce of the pallak lends well to being mopped up by one of the best peshwari naans around. Café Salma is a strictly no booze zone, but a refreshing Moroccan tea feels like a more suitable end to an enjoyable meal here. + Wonderful atmosphere and service - No pre-theatre or early bird menus

Charcoals

26A Renfield Street, City Centre, G2 1LU (Map 6: D3, 65) 0141 221 9251, charcoals. co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–midnight. LC; Pre; HW £12.90; Kids; T/A. £6.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Situated on one of the city’s busiest traffic streets, it would be easy to mistake Charcoals for just another takeaway, but its restaurant is surprisingly cosy. Under new management since January 2011, staff explain details of the menu as they flit conscientiously between diners at uncovered wooden tables. House speciality chicken tikka charcoals stands out on the traditional menu – a generous sizzler dish combining chicken with three different marinades: sweet mango; hara bhara, green from spinach and herbs; and creamy murgh malai, made with cheese rather than yogurt. The meat is accompanied by a sauce that is fruity rather than fiery. Keema aloo here is playfully described as ‘mince and tatties curry’ and appears to be the perfect

comfort food, but it has a chilli heat that creeps up on you. Luckily, with a creamy mango lassi on the side, harmony is restored. The City Centre customers are as busy as the staff with few settling in for a leisurely meal, but if you really don’t have time to sit down, take away some hot, light pakora before hopping on the night bus. + Quick service ideal for busy location - Ice cream dessert a little too frozen

Chillies West End

176–182 Woodlands Road, West End, G3 6LL (Map 9: H4, 79) 0141 331 0494, chillieswestend.com | Mon–Thu noon– 11pm; Fri/Sat noon–11.30pm. [Takeaway until 12.30am.]. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A. £7.95/9.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Close to what was once upon a time the heart of Glasgow’s curry scene, Chillies aims to bring a touch of fervour to Woodlands Road. Its exposed brickwork, muted colour scheme and subdued lighting offers an intimate atmosphere – enhanced by its tapas-style sharing menu. Knowledgeable waiting staff suggest sampling two or three starters between two, followed by three or four main dishes. Some may find the curried cauliflower and potato of the aloo gobi slightly bland, though the same could certainly not be said of the delicious haddock pakoras, coated in a perfect patia-style sweet-and-sour sauce. Big nods also to the house special karahi lamb chops – succulent and falling from the bone, with a healthy zest of heat and spice. The menu is vast and aims to please everyone, from mixed grill platters to light, healthy options, and even pizzas, though it would perhaps benefit from being slightly streamlined. Being a completely Halal premises, there is no alcohol served – but who needs that when they offer some of the best lassies and smoothies in the city. + Fabulous non-alcoholic speciality drinks - Lighting may be slightly intimate for some

Dakhin

89 Candleriggs, Merchant City, G1 1NP (Map 7: C2, 13) 0141 553 2585, dakhin. com | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 5–11pm; Sat/ Sun 1 –11pm. Pre; HW £14.75; Wh; T/A; D. £9.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

The Dakhin offers something different from the array of Indians in and around Merchant City. It’s a Southern Indian speciality restaurant – not a pakora, korma or rogan josh in sight. The fragrant, aromatic scents of coconut and curry leaves waft downstairs, enticing you into the trendy, vibrant dining hall with open kitchen – with a real buzz and contemporary charm. The menu screams to be explored, with majesticsounding dishes that are mostly unknown to the British palate. Dosas are familiar territory for many, but probably not as done here – they are monumental wafer thin, and stuffed with spicy lamb, chicken or vegetables. Elsewhere, the kori managalorean chicken main is rich and hearty with a powerful kick of ground curry leaves, while the prawn chemeen kari is a very spicy affair, made slightly more forgiving by the splash of mellow coconut milk. Traditional naans are replaced by delicious pancakes of varying flavour and depth, with the pathram basket allowing a taste of each. A must for the more adventurous curry lovers. + Exciting dishes, well prepared - Service can feel hurried when busy

✱ The Den at Dining In with Mother India 1347 Argyle Street, West End, G8 8AD (Map 9: D5, 118) 0141 334 3815, motherindiaglasgow.co.uk | Mon–Thu 11.30am–10pm; Fri/Sat 11.30am– 10.30pm; Sun noon–10pm. Veg; Pre; BYOB (£2.95 wine/4 beers, £3.50 fizz); HW £12.85; Wh; T/A. £9.50 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Whoever said small is beautiful has obviously visited the Den at Dining In. Don’t be fooled by the size, however – there is plenty going on here, from the cosy, intimate atmosphere akin to a

friend’s living room, to the simple yet elegant menu offering only a selection of main courses and sides at exceptional value. These change on a fortnightly basis, and all sound so appealing you won’t feel restricted. Seafood is a popular choice, and you can choose your accompaniments and spicing to suit your palate. Big nods to the colossal king prawns with delicately spiced greens; and meltingly moist monkfish with ginger Puy lentils. The peshwari naan, with candied almonds, mango and coconut, could possibly be the best known to man – certainly to Scotsmen. An appealing weekday budget lunch menu is also available, while the small deli counter offers famished West Enders the chance to bring home similar delights to eat at their own leisure – or phone in for collection. In keeping with their ethos, the message here is simple: if you enjoy Indian grub, you’ll love dining at the den. + Delicious affordable food - House wine choices – best to BYOB

✱ The Dhabba

44 Candleriggs, Merchant City, G1 1LE (Map 7: C2, 28) 0141 553 1249, thedhabba.com | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 5–11pm; Sat/Sun 1–11pm. Veg; Pre; HW £14.75; Wh; T/A; D. £9.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

From huge prints illustrating Indian life, to the scents drifting from the kitchen, the Dhabba experience begins the moment you walk into the spacious, relaxed setting. The modern North Indian specialist has enjoyed a decade of success in the heart of Merchant City, but is still innovating, with the menu being updated in early 2012. Its novel approach is apparent early on the menu with no pakora in a range of starters that include a peppery lamb soup, meaty haddock in lightly spiced batter, and platters for sharing. A mains highlight is the slowcooked dum pukht range and among the recently added dishes is the rustic gosht dum nazakat, which has tender lamb in a hearty sauce with subtle spices that tingle on the palate. From the clay oven the murg achari tikka is recommended and a full and spicy bhuna sauce is one of four offered as an accompaniment. To finish, a home-made mango cheesecake stands out among traditional Indian desserts. With an eclectic clientele and a menu void of cliché, the Dhabba is well set for its second decade. + The slow-cooked speciality dum pukht - Cold serving dishes quickly cooled side orders

Green Chilli Café

1293 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8TL (Map 9: D5, 114) 0141 337 6378, greenchillicafe.com | Tue–Sun 5–10.30pm. Closed Mon. BYOB (£3); HW £14.95; Kids; T/A; D. £16 (dinner)

Akbar’s (page 146): fun dining at the first Scottish branch of this UK chain

Decorated in cappuccino browns, with bucket armchairs at round tables, Green Chilli Café creates an atmosphere that is tranquil and civilised. All the main courses are available in large portions; however, regular offers make the small, tapas dishes the best way to enjoy the menu. The six-course tasting option, offering four starters and five small mains, welcomingly relieves diners of decision-making duties. The trio of samosa is particularly successful – crispy, and packed with aromatic mince, chicken or veg. Pakora are served in a miniature fryer basket, keeping with the restaurant’s contemporary aspirations, and coriander broth provides a good base for moules masala. Of the main dishes, aloo methi is pleasantly bitter, with ginger and garlic balancing the fenugreek. Desi lamb (a bhoona-style curry) and earthy chicken saag are also highlights. Accompanied by

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poori, chapati, and rice, there are plenty of options for soaking up leftover sauce. Gulab jamen and ice-cream, and a cup of milky chaa round off a perfectly relaxed experience. + A peaceful, pleasant haven - Some small dishes easily outshine others

India Quay

181 Finnieston Street, West End, G3 8HE (Map 9: G6, off) 0141 221 1616, indiaquay. com | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 5pm–midnight; Sat/Sun 5pm–midnight. Veg; Pre/Post; Kids; Wh; T/A. £8.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

With impressive views of the Clyde Arc, aka squinty bridge, the north Punjabiinfluenced cuisine at India Quay is well worth the trip to Finneston’s outskirts, while its seven-day pre-theatre menu makes it a perfect starting point for anyone attending a concert at the nearby SECC. The warm décor of the spacious ground floor and small mezzanine offer a relaxing setting for diners to enjoy a range of familiar starters, including crisp vegetable pakora and a fantastically rich, fully-stuffed chicken dosa. A wide selection of vegetarian mains, dominated by dhal and paneer dishes, gives the restaurant broad appeal. Meat dishes include a chicken tikka masaledar, which has a zesty sauce offset by a warm spicy finish. The house speciality is a tender lamb desi, which is served traditionally with paratha flat bread and a mild boondi raita that is a perfect complement to the lamb. A midweek evening buffet is available in the mezzanine, giving a sample of what India Quay has to offer, but the view and impressive à la carte menu makes downstairs a better option. + Exceptional peshwari naan - Very little time between courses

Kama Sutra

331 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3HW (Map 6: B2, 7) 0141 332 0055, kamasutrarestaurants.com | Mon–Sun noon–11pm. Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; T/A. £7.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

At the upmarket end of Indian dining, Kama Sutra is spacious yet intimate. As well as the northern Indian cuisine found in most Glasgow curry houses, Kama Sutra offers dishes from various

Indian regions, as well as embracing Scotland’s own larder with surprises such as a venison curry, and one featuring local scallops. The emphasis here is on prolonged pleasure rather than a quick, hot hit. Service is discreet and reserved, but certainly not aloof. With starters, old favourites vie for attention with the less familiar lamb chop adriki, and achari bathak tikka (marinated duck). The fish Lahori, deep-fried in a marinade of spices and seeds, has a grainy batter that contrasts with the soft fish. As a main course, meaty scallops are dressed in a coriander sauce with a sweet, lingering flavour. Regional classic, dum ghost biryani layers fenugreek, cardamom and saffron on chunky pieces of lamb, cooked and served in basmati rice. This restaurant combines familiarity with the unexpected, and the broad menu means there is always something new to try, much like the Kama Sutra itself. + Menus in 12 different languages, plus Braille - Downstairs lacks sophistication of main restaurant

Kebabish Grill

323–325 Victoria Road, Southside, G42 7SA (Map 8: E1, 6) 0141 424 1879, kebabish-grill.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon– midnight; Sun 1pm–midnight. Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Kebabish promises authentic Desi cooking and remains a firm favourite with diners in Glasgow’s multicultural Southside. It is bright, clean and modern, staff are dressed smartly in black uniforms, and it doesn’t sell alcohol – not surprising then, that this place is popular with families. A large open barbecue creates a sense of anticipation, making it almost impossible to resist a grill option, and there are plenty to choose from, featuring lamb, chicken and kebabs. Muglai chicken breast has a sharp fresh flavour deriving from its mint and garlic marinade, with the smoky edge you would expect from charcoal cooking. If you prefer something saucier, choosing from the chef’s specials is recommended. Dhal gosht is a reasonably hot dish of tender lamb and lentils. The smell of cumin wafts up as it arrives, but chilli and coriander pack the palatal punch. A generous portion of mushroom fried rice, mixed pakora, or thin mince naan, make side dishes equally satisfying. Constantly buzzing with relaxed local regulars, Kebabish feels friendly and comfortable, and delivers as promised. + Perfect for families of all ages - Slight delay between courses

Koh-i-Noor

235 North Street, West End, G3 7DL (Map 9: H5, 90) 0141 221 1555 / 0141 204 1444, koh-i-noor-glasgow.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am; Sun 1–11pm. Pre; HW £15.95 (litre); Kids; T/A; D. £6.50 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Having served up Indian cuisine since 1964, Koh-i-Noor is part of the fabric of Glasgow’s curry culture. When it relocated to Charing Cross in 1983, the already reputable restaurant speculated on future success and created a cavernous 150-cover multi-room restaurant. With an ornate interior and a huge centerpiece fountain, the venue is quintessentially Indian, though the décor is becoming a little tired. The vast majority of customers opt for the buffet, which is laid out around the fountain and has a wide selection, with 10 starters and 11 mains. For those tempted by the à la carte menu, a sharing platter of pakoras, chicken chatt and allu tikka is a medley of typical starters and portions are plentiful. From a vast selection of classic mains, the karahi lamb

Traditional Indian Food “Let us change your perception of Indian dining” ASSAM’S TRADITIONAL INDIAN FOOD 57 West Regent Street Glasgow t. 0141 331 1980 www.assams.co.uk

Outside Catering / Cookery Classes / Gift Vouchers Available The List Eating & Drinking Guide 149

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Glasgow is thick and bold, with lingering spices led by loads of green chillies and succulent meat. Chicken tikka bengali is sweeter, with hints of honey emerging from the hot sauce. When it comes to traditional Indians, this old favourite shines – though it may not sparkle for those seeking a more contemporary experience. + The bountiful buffet - Allu tikka a touch on the greasy side

KoolBa

109 Candleriggs, Merchant City, G1 1NP (Map 7: C1, 16) 0141 552 2777, koolba. com | Tue/Wed 5–10pm; Thu noon–2pm, 5–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–10pm; Sun 4–9pm. Closed Mon. Veg; Pre; HW £13.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £11 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Koolba sits well in the heart of the hustle of Merchant City. Its Persian influences are evident from the rich colour scheme, vibrant canopied ceiling, and, more importantly, enticing aromas – all exuding a warm, welcoming charm that attracts a mixed crowd. The emphasis is on freshly prepared, healthy Indian food, with a slight Middle Eastern twist, most apparent in the starters, from the tangy shirazi salad of diced vegetables to the classic Persian chicken olivieh, with egg and potato. The slightly bland hummus, however, lacks a real zesty-tahini kick. Main courses are a more Indian affair with the wonderfully rich stewed lamb of the sabzi gosht, which melts in the mouth leaving a subtle kick; while the generously portioned king prawn special masala launches an all-out chilli and garlic assault on the senses. All the old favourites make an appearance, too, alongside house specialities such as nantara chicken tikka with prawns. The impressive global beer and wine list has been smartly put together, ensuring all tastes are catered for, and stands head and shoulders above most others. + Exceptional wine list - Over-cooked king prawns

✱ Masala Twist

192–194 Byres Road, West End, G12 8SN (Map 9: D2, 35) 0141 339 3777, masalatwistscotland.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–midnight. Veg; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; T/A; D. £7 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

A relative newcomer to Glasgow’s curry scene, Masala Twist certainly manages to hold its own, pulling some surprising punches. The staff instantly make you feel welcome, in a genuine, honest, and natural manner. Split over two small floors, the restuarant has a warm homely feel, despite the slightly garish yellow walls. The menu is peppered with interesting and playful dishes like the Rajasthan-style venison, or the popular house special of curried mince and tatties – even rabbit manages to pop its head up. Staff nimbly dart

Café Salma (pages 147 and 161): one floor for Indian cuisine; another for a plusher Moroccan experience

between the cramped tables, brandishing amazingly aromatic sizzling platters, smiling and joking as they go. In keeping with the quirky theme, the perfectly spiced batak achari – pink, juicy duck – is unusual but tasty; especially with the accompanying mango and mint chutney. The lamb jalandhri main feels like it’s been slowly braised for days, bursting with hits of ginger and garlic, mellowed by the delicate aftertaste of coconut. In contrast, the dazzling South Indian garlic chilli chicken explodes in the mouth. The affordable lunch buffet is revered by local students and workers alike. + Bold, brave and beautiful cooking - Those yellow walls

✱ Mother India

28 Westminster Terrace, Sauchiehall Street, West End, G3 7RU (Map 9: F5, 102) 0141 221 1663, motherindiaglasgow. co.uk | Mon–Thu 5.30–10.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm; Sun noon–10pm. Pre; BYOB (£1.95 wine/4 beers, £3.50 fizz); HW £12.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £10.50 (Sat/Sun) (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

A much-loved Glasgow institution, Mother India’s flagship restaurant is set over three floors, each with its own unique character. The small dining area on the ground floor is bright and

casual, the first floor is grand with dark wood and candles, and the basement is contemporary. Despite a relatively limited menu, each dish is distinctive, making it easy to home in on chilli garlic chicken or a ‘healthy option’ such as baked halibut with chickpeas, fennel and tomatoes. King prawn and monkfish are complemented by the light flavours of ginger and dill, while garam masala adds depth, making the dish satisfyingly savoury, and, complete with vegetables, it needs no side order. Among options for vegetarians is roasted paneer with spinach and peas, with pungent greens enveloping the mild, soft cheese, and hot juicy tomatoes. Turka daal features on a ‘Glasgow favourites’ menu, perhaps because piping hot, nicely spiced lentils are an ideal antidote to West Coast weather. Add relaxed, friendly service into the mix and it’s easy to see why this is a firm favourite with residents as well as visitors to the city. + Ambience-enhancing live sitar music - Relaxed service could be seen as disorganised

Mother India’s Café

1355 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8AD (Map 9: D5, 119) 0141 339 9145, motherindiascafeglasgow.co.uk | Mon– Thu noon–10.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm;

Sun noon—10pm. Veg; HW £12.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

It’s not uncommon to see queues of hungry diners outside this tapas-style take on Indian cuisine, highlighting both its popularity and the fact it doesn’t take bookings. But don’t let a short wait put you off – there’s always the grandeur of Kelvingrove Art Gallery across the road to distract. The open kitchen and tables full of friends and families create a relaxed, sociable vibe in which to choose from the 40 or so dishes – three or four per couple is the restaurant’s recommendation. The carefully considered menu mixes classics and more unusual creations, from a thick and spicy lamb saag to dai pullay, which brings together chickpeas and potatoes in creamy yogurt. A crab dosa from the specials board is meaty and packed with fresh herbs, while the gently spiced and nutty butter chicken is a treat. There’s plenty for vegetarians, and side dishes are created with the same care as the tapas. For a different experience, there’s live sitar music on Monday nights – but even on weekdays, be prepared to wait for a table. + Enticing, unusual and ever-changing specials - No bookings means queuing likely

150 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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In association with

Glasgow The New Pakistani Café

607 Pollokshaws Road, Southside, G41 2QG (Map 8: D1, 5) 0141 237 7690 | Mon– Sun 2–11pm. Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £9 (dinner)

A dimly lit café that manages to be unfussy and quirky at the same time, the New Pakistani Café sells tasty food in generous portions. Though predominantly a takeaway, there is plenty of seating and atmosphere to make dining in an enjoyable experience. Celebrating its national identity boldly in its décor, the Pakistani flag is created with lights on the back wall, photographs of the country and its people hang throughout and a flat screen television plays Bollywood and traditional south Asian music. Although the menu offers European-style curries, it seems silly to seek out this restaurant for such fare. For a more authentic flavour of Pakistan, opt for a karahi dish, which the waiter simply describes as ‘spicier’. Most meat dishes are served on the bone, and Lahori chicken karai is hot with chilli, and pieces of ginger the size of pineapple chunks. Gobi gosht, made with lamb and cauliflower, is milder than the chicken, with coriander prevailing. The café is as popular with solo diners as with groups gathering for a casual meal. + Generous main courses - Pakora could be lighter

Punjabi Charing Cross

157–159 North Street, City Centre, G3 7DA (Map 9: H6, 129) 0141 221 3926, punjabicharingcross.co.uk | Mon–Wed & Sat/Sun 4.30pm–midnight; Thu/Fri noon–2.30pm, 4.30pm–midnight. Veg; Pre; HW £14.25; Kids; T/A; D. £5.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Opening on a site adjacent to the M8 that has been home to several different pubs in recent years, Punjabi Charing Cross has maintained that feel, with dark wood and leather creating a welcoming setting. The menu is safe North Indian cuisine, with starters including pakoras and puris, including a chunky mushroom option on a crisp pancake. Sea bass from the special tandoori starters is a gem, with the gently marinated fish resting on a bed of mashed veg. Mains are divided by popular Punjabi specials and chef specialities, making navigation easy. The lamb on the bone is lean, and the stewlike sauce vibrant with herbs. A sweetand-sour chicken patia is full of citrus notes and works well with the onion and mushroom-packed chef special rice. The Punjabi brand took over 30 years to expand on its Southside restaurant, and with reasonably priced lunch and pre-theatre deals, should attract sufficient trade on the north side of the river. + Succulent sea bass - Poor location for passing trade

Rasoi Indian Kitchen

120 Dumbarton Road, West End, G11 6NY (Map 9: C3, 13) 0141 339 2068, rasoi-indian-kitchen.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–2pm, 5–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–2pm, 5pm–midnight; Sun 5–11pm. Veg; HW £11.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £4.50 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Having changed its name last year, Rasoi is now run by a family with years of experience throughout the city. The décor is low key, with the emphasis on a café-style approach. The prices are also more café than restaurant –but don’t be fooled, this is a charming little place, offering outstanding value for money, especially in the West End. Lunchtime offers include an all you can eat buffet – with over thirteen dishes – for £4.95, and a two-course menu at £4.50 including a drink. The à la carte is compact, but not overly restricting. The haggis pakora is rather bland, being merely a lump of

regular haggis coated in batter; but the rich, tangy chicken puri saves the day. The garlic chicken main fills a large bowl, with massive tender chunks of chicken and goes perfectly with the expertly seasoned mushroom fried rice. The real winners here, though, are the tiffin box deals – three different dishes arriving in quaint metal boxes stacked on top of one another, with rice and naan. Certainly worth a visit, or two. + Cheap and cheery, with no quality loss - Uninspiring haggis pakora

Rawalpindi Tandoori

321 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3HW (Map 6: B2, 10) 0141 332 4180, rawalpindi-tandoori.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am; Sun 1pm–midnight. LC; Veg; Pre; HW £16.95 (litre); Kids; T/A; D. £7.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

As one of the elder statesmen of Glasgow’s curry scene, Rawalpindi has been serving Indian favourites to a wide demographic since 1979. The restaurant itself has moved with the times; a recent facelift resulting in neutral tones that make for a warm and relaxing environment in the midst of Sauchiehall Street’s boisterous hubbub. The menu is full of familiar dishes from crisp pakora to a chicken puri that skillfully combines tomato tanginess with just the right hint of spices. The tandoori range includes monkfish and scallops, but for the more carnivorous, there’s a mixed grill of succulent chicken on the bone, chunky seikh kebab, battered king prawns and tender lamb tikka. The jangli murgh sees generous chicken chunks served in a creamy sauce bursting with garlic and fresh coriander. From a largely reliable range of sides, the more adventurous roghni naan, with cashew nuts and egg yolk, is worth exploring. This is a restaurant that specialises in timehonoured, traditional dishes, and with a generation’s worth of experience, it’s little wonder it does it so well. + Open late, with a host of familiar dishes - Unnecessary TVs playing Indian music videos

✱ Southern Spice

325 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3HW (Map 6: B2, 111) 0141 333 9977, thesouthernspice.co.uk | Mon– Sun noon–12.30am. Veg; Pre; HW £11.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £4.75/£5.75 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

A delightful surprise awaits those that enter this brightly lit, minimally decorated, restaurant. Among a plethora of Indian restaurants on Sauchiehall St and nearby, Southern Spice holds it own against much bigger, older and better-known establishments, and indeed outshines many of them. As the name suggests, the cuisine from the south of India features thin dosa pancakes, lentil sambar and juicy curries. The filling starters include samosas wrapped with thick, crunchy pastry, or masala vada – deep-fried chickpea patties; both are delicious, especially dipped in the ‘chutney of the day’. Every dish here is popping with lively spices. The paneer masala dosa has cardamom pods and curry leaves nestling among cubes of home-made cheese. Sambar, a traditional south Indian lentil dish can be ordered as a main course, but also comes as a generous accompaniment to the dosas. It’s a wet, spicy dish, filled with vegetables and sweetened with jaggery. Chicken nellore is light with plenty of coriander leaves, and the jeera pilau rice is speckled with cumin seeds and whole, fragrant cloves. Southern Spice’s unassuming exterior belies the high quality of its cooking, making it a treasure, hidden in plain sight. + No scrimping on the spices - Shop front doesn’t do it justice

Thali

42 Albion Street, Merchant City, G1 1LH (Map 7: C2, 30) 0141 552 8332, thaliglasgow.com | Tue–Thu & Sun 4–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–12.30am. Closed Mon. Veg; Pre; HW £15; Kids. £19 (dinner)

Thali offers something different from the multitude of Indian restaurants nestled around Merchant City. The décor may look already slightly dated with its Artex walls and faded red carpet—but the food certainly is not. Referring to a charmingly diagrammed placemat, waiters enthusiastically explain the unusual concept of the thali: a base platter of fluffy rice; salad and pickles; daal or raita; and a generous portion of naan. Diners then choose a minimum of two katoris, or mains, from the extensive menu, but are encouraged to try at least three or four—enough, surely, to sate an elephant’s hunger. The stand out dishes are definitely the vegetarian options. The traditional Hyderabadi dish baingan— Sautéed aubergines in a tangy tamarind sauce—should not be missed; nor the aromatic okra with chilli and mango powder. Meat dishes are not to be scoffed at either, with a vast array of grilled kebabs and patties—not a vindaloo in sight. A two course pre-theatre menu is available Tuesday to Sunday, with a starter, base thali with two katrois plus a glass of house wine. + Extensive vegetarian options - Quite dark and overly intimate

Urban Pind

18 Candleriggs, Merchant City, G1 1LD (Map 7: C2, 32) 0141 552 2912, urbanpind. co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–3pm, 5–11pm; Sun 3–11pm. Veg; Pre; HW £10.95; Kids; Wh; T/A.

Slumdog Bar & Kitchen

410 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3JD (Map 6: B2, 6) 0141 333 9933, kamasutrarestaurants.com | Mon–Sun 3–11pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 3–11pm.] Veg; Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £18 (dinner)

Cocktails and curry seem somewhat incongruous, but when you taste the rose-flavoured Slumdog Millionaire, it remarkably works. Slumdog bar and kitchen, on Sauchiehall Street’s student/ teens strip, is more reminiscent of a style bar than an Indian restaurant. The menu is limited and the drinks options extensive, ensuring they’re ready for a party crowd. Starters include Slumdog rolls – crispy parathas stuffed with lamb, chicken or cottage cheese and vegetables – while spring rolls, potato wedges and haggis pakora exemplify its fusion approach to Indian food. Continuing in this vein, the menu offers vegetable supreme curry and a ‘kick ass’ chicken kebab, alongside traditional dishes. The former combines peas, carrots, cauliflower and potato in a rich tomato-based sauce, topped with a charred chilli pepper. The latter is a mountain of sizzling chicken, peppers, mushrooms and onions, served with rice and a hot curry sauce. Kick ass it may be, but it’s not too hot for the uninitiated. Staff are friendly and keen to ensure diners are comfortable throughout their visit. + With cocktails, private dining, and DJs, Slumdog is up for a party - Devotees of Indian food may prefer a broader, more authentic menu The List Eating & Drinking Guide 151

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Glasgow

£5.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

More traditional than its Candleriggs neighbours, Urban Pind divides two large dining areas with a fish pond, while thick carpets and Indian artworks set a conventional tone. The familyrun business focuses on the popular Punjabi cuisine to great effect. To start, a traditional range of pakoras, samosas and dosas will always prove popular, but the moist and spicy chicken tikka boti kebab is a worthy alternative. There’s no scrimping on portion sizes either. Mains are split by cuisine style, and with a history of these on the menu, there is much to learn for the uninitiated. Handi, karahi, tawa, shahi nawab and tandoori dishes all tempt, along with more traditional fare. The slow-cooked desi handi is stew-like with tender lamb, while the chicken tikka from the tandoor arrives sizzling on a bed of veg. Its delicate spices roll over the tongue before a hit of chilli delivers a satisfying bite. Worth consideration is a seasonal snacking menu, which can be enjoyed al fresco in summer months – adding another layer to an already popular offering. + Great lunch and dinner deals on offer - Crockery a bit too reminiscent of runny eggs

VIP Taste

623 Cathcart Road, Southside, G42 8AE See Takeaway & Home Delivery

The Wee Curry Shop

• 41 Byres Road, West End, G11 5RG (Map 9: C3, 19) 0141 339 1339, theweecurryshopglasgow.com | Mon– Thu noon–2.30pm, 5–10.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm; Sun 5–10pm. Veg; Pre; BYOB (£2.50 wine/6 beers); HW £11.50; Kids; T/A. £5.75 (thali) (set lunch) / £16 (dinner) • 29 Ashton Lane, West End, G12 8SJ (Map 9: D2, 33) 0141 357 5280, theweecurryshopglasgow.co.uk | Mon– Tue noon–2.30pm, 5–11pm; Wed–Sat noon–11pm; Sun 1–10.30pm. Veg; Pre; BYOB (£3.50); HW £14.95; T/A. £5.75 (thali) (set lunch) • 7 Buccleuch Street, City Centre, G3 6SJ (Map 6: C1, 23) 0141 353 0777, theweecurryshopglasgow.com | Mon–Thu noon–2pm, 5.30–10pm; Fri/ Sat noon–2pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun 5.30–10pm. Veg; BYOB (£2.50); HW £11.55; T/A. £5.75 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The Wee Curry Shop on Byres Road is a casual affair with the ambience of a 1970s living room. A team of chefs work in an open kitchen as you enter the restaurant. Most seating is on the mezzanine directly above this kitchen, so the air up here is hot with simmering spices. The menu offers plenty for vegetarians; channa paneer with broccoli is a substantial main course that will tempt the most committed meat-eater, while the carrot with peas and spiced leeks is sweet and works better as a side dish. Aubergine and mushroom fritters are rather light on mushrooms but infused with the flavour of whole cumin. Across the menu texture is as fundamental as flavour. The lamb karahi sauce is rich and piquant, with whole peppercorns that burst delightfully in the mouth, and crunchy okra provides a culinary counterpoint to juicy chicken and ginger. This is simple Indian food in kitsch Scottish surroundings. Flocked tartan wallpaper leaves a lasting impression, but fortunately the food is more memorable than the decor. + Great value for good quality food - Service lacked direction

Yadgar Kebab House

148 Calder Street, Southside, G42 7QP See Takeaway & Home Delivery

ITALIAN In association with

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chocolate and neutral colours, and mix of open tables and dark cosy booths – plus the feet of shoppers on Buchanan Street visible through the high stained-glass windows. The menu is a modern take on Italian cuisine. Starters include mussels with white wine, garlic and parsley; mozzarella fritta – breaded and deep-fried, the milky cheese oozing out when cut into; and salmon fillet on a bed of rocket, chervil and capers. Main courses are huge, ranging from enormous pizzas, with the four seasons coming with an artichoke heart in its centre, to a fine range of fish dishes, lamb, veal, chicken and steak. Pasta dishes include the ziti al forno, intensely meaty beef and pork meatballs baked with penne pasta and cherry tomatoes. To finish, try the rich slice of Bailey’s cheesecake and a cup of decent coffee. + Sophisticated setting - Portion size overwhelming

Amore From tiny trattoria that have been serving family recipes for generations to slick chain restaurants serving a familiar menu of pizza and pasta favourites, the wide range of Italian restaurants in the city typifies Glasgow’s strong Italian connection. At best, the eager diner can find a sophisticated dining experience combining fresh local produce with fine skills and ingredients from the old country. And a double espresso too. Buon appetito! Reviewers: Rachel Devine, Tiff Griffin, Piers Hunt, Vicky Lee

Amalfi Pizzeria

148 West Nile Street, City Centre, G1 2RQ (Map 6: D3, 49) 0141 572 0661, amalfipizzeria.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon– 2.30pm, 5–10pm; Sat noon–11pm; Sun noon–10pm. Pre; HW £12.95; Kids. £8.50 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

This small but enduringly popular restaurant is handily located in the City Centre and well placed for theatre and cinema goers. The galley kitchen and expansive windows create a welcoming atmosphere for diners. Valpolicella proves great value among the wines and a perfect companion to the range of pizzas and pastas on offer. Mountainous deep-fried mozzarella sticks are crispy and addictive, while the bruschetta neatly balances sweet and crunchy. Parma ham pizza has a wonderfully light base though the sauce doesn’t quite offset the saltiness of the ham. The chicken chianti is an unusual dish with grapes, which pulls off its blend of seemingly odd ingredients. A range of traditional desserts will suit everyone and the tartufo nero has a rich and creamy zabaglione centre. With friendly staff warming the atmosphere, a wide range of reliable dishes and the tasteful décor added to the generous afternoon lunch deal, Amalfi will remain a popular option for an unplanned central bite. + Generous portions so go when hungry - Mood lighting constantly changing

Amarone

2 Nelson Mandela Place, City Centre, G2 1BT (Map 6: D3, 67) 0141 333 1122, amaronerestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–10.30pm; Sun 12.30–10pm. Veg; Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh. £13.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Enter the plate-glass doors and down the elegant stairway into this basement venue, and it is clear that Amarone is at the classier end of the Di Maggio’s chain. There’s the slick modern décor, warm

30 Ingram Street, Merchant City, G1 1QA (Map 7: D1, 20) 0141 553 0810, amoreglasgow.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon– 10.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm. Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £5.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

At the quiet end of Ingram Street, Amore sits mezzanine height above pavement level which, along with the smart furnishings, lots of sparkling glass and stone-bake oven, provides a pleasant sense of occasion. It’s a warm and welcoming enough space, but lacks a certain intimacy, tending to work better for business lunches or large parties. It has a slight feel of an Italian theme restaurant, although most of the staff are Italian and extremely helpful and accommodating. The bumper menu is a bit daunting but reasonably priced and fairly well executed. The speciality pizzas are particularly good, while a starter of pork and haggis meatballs – strikes a satisfying cultural balance. The caprese salad is let down by bland mozzarella but mains of penne arrabiata and the house speciality – sausage and mushrooms in a chilli and white wine sauce – are generously portioned and tasty. Dig in for a third course: the desserts are worth it. + Great budget lunch options - Warm glass of merlot

Arcaffe

7 North Claremont Street, West End, G3 7NR (Map 9: F5, 95) 0141 333 1333 | Mon–Wed 8.30am–3.30pm; Thu–Fri 8.30am–8pm; Sat 11am–8pm. Veg; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Tucked into a side street joining nearby offices to Kelvingrove Park, Arcaffe is an unassuming and friendly little Italian bistro, with tables on the pavement outside and large windows for catching the midday sun. Bustling with a mix of young families and working-lunchers there is a busy café vibe, with smiling staff constantly moving between the round wooden tables with huge plates of food. The menu is assembled from Italian favourites, pizza and pasta, meat and fish and a selection of burgers and salads. Lasagne arrives steaming hot, baked pasta with rich tomatoes and melting cheese, while the chicken salad is a riot of colours as every imaginable ingredient is on the plate. The signature pizza is topped with a hearty mixture of spicy sausage, peppers, mushrooms, anchovies and mozzarella. Usually open for breakfast, lunch and early evening meals, it opens later in the summer months with an expanded evening menu. They also serve a superior babyccino, a chubby espresso cup of frothy milk with cocoa powder – perfect for introducing youngsters to café culture. + Hearty food inside a lunch hour - Squeaky door on serving hatch

Barbarossa

Cartside House, 1–7 Clarkston Road, Southside, G44 4EF (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 560 3898, barbarossarestaurant.co.uk | Tue–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5–10pm; Sun noon–9pm. Wine bar open Tue–Sun 10am–10pm. Closed Mon. [Bar open: Tue–Sun 10am–midnight.] Pre; HW £16.95; Kids; Wh. £10.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Barbarossa comes in two parts – a wine bar downstairs and a chic restaurant upstairs – and thanks to a very committed chef, a host of regulars have been dining here for more than 10 years. The wine bar has a reasonably priced selection of pasta, pizza and grill foods, while the restaurant is a more refined dining experience. The small à la carte menu has both an Italian and Scottish influence, with many ingredients sourced daily by the owner from local producers. The sea bream fillet to start is light and crispy, while the house lasagne main is filling, if a little heavy on oil, though the rocket and ricotta ravioli is a tasty and healthy veggie option. Where Barbarossa excels is with dessert. The home-made cheesecake and the white chocolate crème brûlée are both ridiculously good. Now with off-licence staus, they will sell any wine from the vast wine list, at much reduced prices, for you to enjoy at home. + Good lunch and pre-theatre deals - Why cram people in one area when there is lots of space?

Barolo Grill

92–94 Mitchell Street, City Centre, G1 3NQ (Map 9: H4, 80) 0141 221 0971, barologrill.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–10pm; Sun 12.30–10pm. Pre; HW £15.95. £13.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Occupying the former L’Ariosto premises, this plush member of the Di Maggio’s stable strikes you on entering with its stylish and intimate ambience. Subtly lit leather-seated booths and smaller tables are framed by the flames of the grill in the background, creating a classy impression while attentive, unobtrusive staff punctuate their conversation with subtle Italian phrases in a way that charms. To start, sausage and fennel filo parcels are deliciously juicy and crisp, though prawns in limoncello dressing are a little lacking in liqueur. Rich crab and pancetta carbonara may overpower timid tastebuds but the salt of the combination finds the right balance, while the seafood spaghetti is a delight – generously laden with clams, scallops and more, with a creamy Gavi white wine sauce that melts in the mouth. Tiramisù is an unadventurous but satisfying dessert, and the complimentary limoncello an indulgent digestif. The excellent house prosecco is recommended – its crisp citrus flavours make a fine appetizer. Barolo is an appealing choice for a meal in the centre or a special occasion as the quality of the food, service and atmosphere represents good value. + Scottish seafood spaghetti is a knockout - Music doesn’t do the elegant surroundings justice

✱ Battlefield Rest

55 Battlefield Road, Southside, G42 9JL (Map 8: D6, 24) 0141 636 6955, battlefieldrest.co.uk | Mon–Sat 10am– 10pm. Closed Sun (except special occasions). Pre; HW £12.90; Kids; Wh. £8.90 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Prepare for your senses to go into overdrive when you visit this gem of a restaurant. It’s brimming with tables, diners and waiters, and if you could bottle the atmosphere then you’d surely be able to sell it, if only to the people who fill this place most days so they take some home

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Glasgow with them. The tiny kitchen produces some of the city’s finest Italian food with frequent Scottish twists. To start, the bruchetta is a must – the hot garlic bread is delicious, and a very healthy serving of cherry tomatoes is ideal preparation for round two. There is a good selection of seafood, meat and chicken dishes available; however, the chef has quite rightly put the restaurant name to the rigatoni Battlefield Rest – served with the thinnest slices of courgette, bacon and tomato and tossed in olive oil, garlic and chilli – it is incredibly fresh and surprisingly light. The black pudding salad is a delightful alternative to anything Italian. Pudding-wise pick the Nutella and peanut butter cheesecake and you can’t go wrong. Bravo Battlefield! + Great food and atmosphere - Busy all the time

Bellini

67 Kilmarnock Road, Southside, G41 3YR (Map 8: A5, 22) 0141 649 6096, bellinishawlands.co.uk | Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri/Sat 11am–11pm. Veg; Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; T/A. £6.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Bellini is a lovely little pocket of Italy in the heart of Shawlands. Almost all the staff are Italian and, beef aside, all produce is from Italy, and with no freezer on the premises, everything is fresh. Thanks to this the restaurant has a faithful clientele in a demanding market, attracted to this cosy wee place, twinkling with fairy lights, reflecting off the wine bottles on the walls. The menu isn’t huge but it works (and an early evening option is great value at £9.95 for two courses) – prawns and smoked salmon to start are nicely presented. For mains the pizzas are thin and crispy and there is a good pasta selection. Go for the steak, though, and you won’t be disappointed – the Bellini sauce is so creamy you may want to lick the plate clean. Desserts are traditional Italian – the pasteria Napoletana with warm ricotta cheese and candied fruit being light and fragrant. Finish with a shot of limoncello to complete the experience nicely. + Lovely atmosphere - Could do with more desserts on menu

The Big Blue

445 Great Western Road, West End, G12 8HH (Map 9: F2, 63) 0141 357 1038, bigbluerestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–3pm, 5–10pm; Sat/Sun noon–10pm.

[Bar open: Sun–Thu noon–9pm; Fri/Sat noon–10pm.] Veg; Pre; HW £13.60; Kids. £7.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

A perennial student favourite and something of a West End institution, the Big Blue endures in its picturesque location by the Kelvin. Portions are hearty enough to satisfy diners with big appetites. The fried calamari with lemon is a tasty starter and the Caprese salad is nicely presented with a drizzle of basil oil. Chicken Milanese with chunky chips is enjoyable underneath the crunchy batter, while the steak pie is robust honest grub. Well-known favourites pack the pizza and pasta list and there will be something to suit all palates. A fruits of the forest cheesecake is a creamy and enjoyable end to the evening’s dining, proving too big to finish. No surprises but more importantly no letdowns either. With rare riverside dining and drinking, plus decent deals for lunch and pre-theatre, the Big Blue remains a dependable option for locals and beyond seeking an affordable, easy meal out, or simply a few beers and cocktails by the river when the sun’s shining. + Crunchy calamari - Tired-looking salad with the main

✱ La Brava

679a Clarkston Road, Southside, G44 3SE (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 569 6257, labrava.co.uk | Mon–Sat 9am–10pm; Sun 10am–10pm. Veg; Pre; HW £13.50; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £7.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

La Brava has been serving Southsiders for a couple of years, and the fact it’s always busy is testament to chef’s use of the finest and freshest ingredients, as well as to an exceptionally friendly welcome. Owners Aris and Rico have managed to create the perfect balance between great food and relaxed surroundings. They recommend you choose from their huge ‘piccoli assagini’ menu – essentially Italian tapas, with pasta dishes that are all fresh, vegetable choices cooked to perfection, and the risottos so good you may order twice – all at an average price of just £4.75. Of course if you do want more than a taste they will happily make several dishes in a great big main size portion. Call ahead if you are lactose or glucose intolerant and the chef will prepare something specially. Home-made Italian desserts finish off a meal nicely – try the cannoli and you may have to roll yourself home. There is also a small deli should

you wish to pop in for some cheeses, cured meats or ice-cream. + Great fresh food at very good prices - Often busy so book ahead

Café Antipasti

305 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3HQ (Map 6: B2, 14) 0141 3329002, antipasti.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–10pm; Fri noon–10.30pm; Sat 10am–10.30pm; Sun 10am–10pm. Veg; Pre; HW £12.95; Kids; T/A. £5/£6.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

There is a standard of service and meal in Café Antipasti that is reassuringly consistent if hardly exciting, although this reflects its location at the busy and less-than-intimate end of Sauchiehall Street. The waiting staff are invariably polite, quick and efficient – a necessity when so many of its customers are watching the lunchtime clock or making a pit stop before heading on elsewhere – the wrought iron and wood décor never seems to distress and the lunch and pretheatre menus offer excellent value for money. The à la carte menu, meanwhile, hovers consistently around the middle grade. A starter of gnocchi in a pesto and parmesan cream is filling and well cooked. The garlic, tomato and basil bruschetta is crisp; the ingredients fresh and flavoursome. Likewise, the spaghetti and meatballs is a satisfyingly tasty main course. Only the wild mushroom risotto, thick with onions and thin on mushrooms, is disappointing. A generous choice of desserts and wines by the glass cover the bases. + Slick service - Thud of feet from the mezzanine

Café Cherubini

360 Great Western Road, West End See Cafés

Carluccio’s

7 West Nile Street, City Centre, G1 2PR (Map 6: D4, 88) 0141 248 1166, carluccios.com | Mon–Sun 8am–11pm. HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Since opening in November 2011, Carluccio’s has enjoyed a roaring trade and while it’s a chain restaurant it certainly doesn’t feel like one. It’s bright and has a warm welcoming vibe, as well as a cute little deli at the entrance. Once seated try nibbling on their tin of breads while you decide what you want – the freshly baked focaccia is delicious. For a fresh crispy starter try the calamari fritti – no hint of elastic band quality here. Mains wise there are 13 pasta dishes on offer – pick three to share for just £19.95 – a good choice would be the filling and fragrant fettucce con polpette (meatballs). There are a couple of fish and meat plates – the steak with red pepper sauce is very tender, and a great partner to the rosemary potatoes. For pudding the torta di frutta is served so elegantly and tastes ridiculously creamy, while the chocolate bread and butter pudding will surely please adults and kids alike. + Great service and atmosphere - Booking needed to guarantee a table

✱ Celino’s

620–624 Alexandra Parade, East End, G31 3BT (Map 7: E1, off) 0141 554 0523, celinos.com | Mon/Tue 8.15am–5.30pm; Wed–Sat 8.15am–10pm; Sun 10am–6pm. Veg; Pre; HW £12.75; Kids; Wh; T/A. £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

La Famiglia (page 154): fantastic Italian food at this neighbourhood gem

When a restaurant consistently hits the heights in the ways that Celino’s manages it becomes difficult to ignore, even if located in a neighbourhood where passing trade is scarce, particularly in the evening. Stepping off a deserted Alexandra Parade into a packed Celino’s speaks volumes about the restaurant’s

✱ HITLIST ITALIAN ✱ Battlefield Rest has been drawing in crowds for years with a great atmosphere and food so good you’ll want to book your next visit before leaving. ✱ La Brava Tucked away in a leafy suburb, La Brava’s fresh Italian tapas, relaxed café vibe and great service is second to none. ✱ Celino’s Family-run café and deli as good as, and in most cases better, than any City Centre Italian eatery, thanks to its neighbourhood vibe and quality food. ✱ La Famiglia An intimate atmosphere, superb presentation and cooking, all supported by great staff who have a passion for hospitality. ✱ Fratelli Sarti Great quality ingredients, impeccably high standards and a loving approach combine to make Fratelli Sarti reliably and consistently excellent across their three varied venues. ✱ Italian Caffè A winning blend of an original piccolo piatti approach, consistently excellent quality, an elegant layout and atmosphere, and fantastic wines. ✱ La Parmigiana Refined and formal, with memorable and beautiful dishes that make a meal here an event. ✱ Ristorante Teatro Old-style atmosphere in a modern setting, this ambitious newcomer combines passionate cooking with fine local ingredients. appeal. A small, softly-lit space divided into a delicatessen and dining area, it probably squeezes in a few too many tables, but the bustling atmosphere and snappy service more than compensate. But it’s the food that blows some of the competition out of the acqua. A triumph of quality ingredients and masterful cooking, the à la carte menu provides moments when that much-fabled taste of Italy really does materialise in Glasgow’s East End. Starters of chicken liver and marsala pâté served with caramelised red onions, and tiger prawns cooked in chilli and garlic, are fizzing with flavour. The spaghetti allo scoglio – mixed seafood spaghetti topped with a fat langoustine and tossed in chilli and garlic – is startlingly good; the mushroom pizza, crisp and delicious. The deli, meanwhile, sells meats, cheeses, wines and made-toorder sandwiches. + Italian hospitality - Tight fit The List Eating & Drinking Guide 153

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list.co.uk

Glasgow Coia’s Café

473–477 Duke Street, East End, G31 1RD (Map 7: E1, off) 0141 554 3822, coiascafe. co.uk | Mon–Thu 7am–9pm; Fri/Sat 7am–10pm; Sun 10am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–close.] Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £9.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

An institution in the heart of the East End since 1928, Coia’s Café is run by third generation Scots-Italian Alfredo Coia, easily identifiable by his smart braces. Coia’s is one of only three licensed eateries on the Duke Street strip – and rarely anything but packed as a result – but consistency and effort remain appealingly high. The colour scheme is Italian blue and tight rows of booths and tables create an intimacy, adding to the bustle. The à la carte menu is many things to many people – breakfast rolls, burgers and British classics jostle with an array of Italian staples; antipasti, soups, pizzas, pastas, steaks, salads and homemade ice-cream. A mountain of gnocchi drenched in chilli and tomato sauce and smoked mozzarella is tender rather than gooey, while chicken Milanese, lightly fried in breadcrumbs and served with spaghetti pomodoro, is a filling mix of flavours and textures. Sample the icecream for something sweet and soothing. Locals scoop it up for takeaway from the next-door deli – an oasis of cured meats, cheeses and imported wines. + Warm, friendly welcome - Getting stuck at the seat next to the till

Di Maggio’s

• 21 Royal Exchange Square, City Centre, G1 3AJ (Map 6: E4, 73) 0141 248 2111 | Mon–Sat 11.30am–midnight; Sun 12.30–10.30pm. Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner) • 1038 Pollokshaws Road, Southside, G41 3EB (Map 8: B4, 14) 0141 632 4194 | Mon–Thu noon–11pm; Fri/Sat noon– midnight; Sun 12.30–11pm. Veg; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £8.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner) • 61 Ruthven Lane, West End, G12 9BG (Map 9: C1, 41) 0141 334 8560 | Sun–Thu noon–10.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–11.30pm. Veg; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; T/A; D. £8.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner) • 163 West Nile Street, City Centre, G1 2RL (Map 6: D2, 29) 0141 333 4999 | Mon– Thu noon–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–midnight; Sun 12.30–11pm. Veg; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £8.45 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Since 1985 Di Maggio’s has been expanding from its original Shawlands venue to branches across the city. As the name suggests, the menu owes more to US Italian food than the old country, and while the considerably dense à la carte menu is the same in all branches, each venue is conscientiously tailored to its surroundings. The West End branch has a kids’ play area; Theatreland on West Nile Street does a fine line in pre- and post-theatre deals; while Royal Exchange Square, with its 1930s art-deco interior, has cosy booths and outdoor tables in the picturesque square, and a special party menu for large groups. Starters include hearty finger food: nachos, the ‘bad ass’ chicken wings and gambas pil pil – tiger prawns cooked in white wine, garlic and chilli, served with garlic bread perfect for dipping in the thin, spicy sauce. Numerous main courses – with surely something for all-comers – are generous, running from burgers, pizza, steak to seafood and pasta, as well as daily specials like the surf ‘n’ turf fettuccini, where chorizo, beef fillet and prawns swim in a wonderfully meaty balsamic sugo. A popular chain, consistently agreeable – with little to stand in the way of further expansion.

Barolo Grill (page 152): Di Maggio’s impressive transformation of the former L’Ariosto City Centre restaurant + Fantastic fat juicy prawns - Overwhelming menu choice

Dino Ferrari

35–41 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3AT (Map 6: D2, 47) 0141 332 0626, dinosglasgow.co.uk | Mon–Thu 7am–10.30pm; Fri/Sat 7am–midnight; Sun 8am–11pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 7am–10.30pm; Fri/Sat 7am–midnight; Sun 12.30–11pm.] Veg; Pre; HW £13.75; Kids; Wh; T/A. £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Dino Ferrari is the new look for a much-loved favourite on the Glasgow Italian scene (it was formerly plain old Dino’s, but the owners sold the Hope Street branch in 2011 and tweaked the name). The avuncular welcome and charmingly retro décor – both in the cafe and the adjoining restaurant – as well as its prime location heighten the appeal, but the food is of a consistently good standard to justify returning. As well as offering breakfast, lunch and pre-threatre options, there’s every imaginable Italian staple on the à la carte menu. Chicken wings sautéed in a barbecue sauce, and a crispy, fresh and economically dressed Caprese salad, are two of the lighter starter options. The Dino pizza is widely considered to be one of the city’s best and the prosciutto di Parma – crisp and generously layered with thin slices of ham – meets expectations. Likewise the fettuccine al cartoccio, a tomato and cream bathed concoction of pancetta bacon, mushrooms, garlic, parmesan and mozzarella cooked in foil. The tiramisù more than lives up to its billing as a house speciality. + Excellent wine recommendations - Squirty cream

Eusebi Deli

793 Shettleston Road, East End See Takeaway & Home Delivery

✱ La Famiglia

111 Cleveden Road, West End, G12 0JU (Map 9: A1, off) 0141 334 0111, lafamigliarestaurant.co.uk | Tue–Thu 10am–3pm, 5–10pm; Fri–Sun noon– 10.30pm. Closed Mondays. Pre; HW £15; Kids; Wh. £10.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Upon entering La Famiglia you

encounter a truly inviting atmosphere – often attempted elsewhere, rarely achieved. The smart interior is intimate but nicely proportioned, unlikely to ever make for a cramped dining experience, particularly with conscientious staff effortlessly buzzing around, ensuring all is well. Stylish photographs dotted around depict the family life of young chef-proprietor Nico Simeone, here in his first venture having spent time impressing in other’s top-end kitchens. Seafood of a particularly high standard is the highlight and clearly the chef’s speciality and passion. Scallops and calamari are wonderfully presented, balancing strong, fresh flavours against creamy butternut purée. Prawn tagliatelle is buttery yet matched beautifully with zesty citrus and large, juicy prawns in a rich sauce. Tender chicken wings are deboned – highlighting a recurring attention to detail, while hake wrapped in salty Parma ham is perfectly cooked. To finish the intriguing pistachio crème brûlée dessert comes with a cute mini milkshake accompaniment. It may be in suburbia, but the high quality ingredients, consistently creative preparation and faultless presentation, matched by a genuine passion for food and service, make this a hugely rewarding experience and a newcomer with a bright future. + Superbly cooked and presented seafood - Little bit off the beaten track – but worth every single step

Fanelli’s

Unit 4 Merchant Square, 62 Candleriggs, Merchant City, G1 1LE (Map 7: C2, 26) 0141 552 0139, fanellisglasgow. com | Mon–Thu noon–9.30pm; Fri–Sun noon–10.30pm. Veg; HW £14.50; Kids; Wh. £7.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Located in the polished but slightly soulless Merchant Square, this newcomer wins you over with its simplicity and warm welcome from staff who are eager to inform. Bruschetta fans have the choice of five in the antipasti – the chargrilled chicken and pesto version is richly enjoyable and enhanced by the addition of mascarpone. Mussels in white wine and cream sauce may be a standard but here it’s no bad thing – fresh soft mussels come swimming in

the rich sauce with a chunk of bread to soak it all up. Chicken Milanese with spaghetti pomodoro is next and while the breadcrumbed chicken is juicy, the pomodoro needs a touch of sweetness. The grilled sea bass with potatoes is delicious, arriving with an intriguing sauce, blending olive oil and parsley. The cheesecake with coulis is a sweet and tasty end to the night. Fanelli’s is a welcome addition to the Merchant City serving freshly prepared unpretentious dishes and coming out on top. For the truly adventurous they even offer pizzamaking classes. + Friendly, knowledgeable and engaging staff - Merchant Square can lack intimacy if you sit outside

La Fiorentina

2 Paisley Road West, Southside, G51 1LE (Map 8: E1, off) 0141 420 1585, lafiorentina.com | Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun 2–8.30pm. Pre; HW £16.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £8.50 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Either wonderfully kitsch or reassuring old-fashioned, depending on your point of view, La Fiorentina presides over the junction of Govan Road and Paisley Road West like an eminent institution, particularly to its many regulars. Starters are presented with a flourish, including the haggis toscano – a slice of the Scottish delicacy on toast topped with a poached egg, all perched on salad tossed with bacon and balsamic vinegar. Mains range from home-made pastas, risottos and pizzas to fish, seafood, beef, veal and chicken. Linguine principessa sees sliced chicken and ribbons of pasta tossed with peas and Parma ham, all held together with a creamy tomato sauce. Pollo e pancetta is a tender butterfly of chicken pan-fried with mushrooms, bacon and cream served with crisp, roast potatoes and seasonal vegetables. Rich desserts like tiramisù and chocolate fudge cake come with fresh cream, dusted with cocoa powder, but a simple gelato affogato of vanilla ice-cream with a shot of espresso is absolutely delicious, helped by wonderfully smoky Carraro coffee. + Feels like Italy - Slightly intrusive music

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Glasgow ✱ Fratelli Sarti

• 42 Renﬁeld Street, City Centre, G2 1NF (Map 6: D3, 64) 0141 572 7000, sarti.co.uk | Sun 12.30–10pm; Mon–Thu 8am–10pm; Fri 8am–10.30pm; Sat 10am–10.30pm. [Bar open: Sun 12.30–10pm; Mon–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–10.30pm.] Veg; Pre; HW £16.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner) • 121 Bath Street / 133 Wellington Street, City Centre, G2 2SZ (Map 6: C2, 43) 0141 204 0440 | Mon–Thu 8am–10pm; Fri 8am–10.30pm; Sat 10am–10.30pm; Sun noon–10pm. Veg; Pre; HW £16.95; Kids; T/A. £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

There is an expectation with Italian restaurants that the experience be one of feeling loved and entertained as well as fed, yet few manage to pull off the feat with such aplomb as Fratelli Sarti. There’s a uniformity of excellence across all three branches – the adjoining Bath Street and Wellington Street restaurant and deli-café and the more formal and opulent Renfield Street branch with its wood-panelled, marble exterior – that elevates it to the highest level. It excels consistently with a combination of highquality ingredients, meticulous attention to detail, kitchen wizardry and front of house charm. The à la carte menu – Tuscan/Ligurian in origin and shared by the branches – offers a wide choice of antipasti, pizzas, pastas, salads, mains and desserts. A thick, toothsome minestrone is packed with chunky vegetables, pasta and flavour, and a delicately seasoned chicken liver pâté is elegantly presented with a gloriously tangy red onion chutney and crunchy toast. A dive into the specials is rewarded with a superb escalope of pork in breadcrumbs, served with spaghetti and a simply spot-on tomato sauce, while rich, meaty ravioli al ragù is a reminder that at Fratelli Sarti even the most commonplace of Italian dishes is executed with the utmost skill. + Reasonably priced excellence - One or two awkwardly placed tables

Gambrino

333 Great Western Road, West End, G4 9HS (Map 9: G2, 75) 0141 339 4111, gambrino.co.uk | Mon–Sun 11am–late. Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £6.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

With its warm, cosy interior, dim lights, terracotta tiles and worn wood, Gambrino feels like a rustic Tuscan taverna, even on a rainy Glaswegian night. The menu is simple, focusing on a few things and doing them well – pizza, pasta and a handful of chicken dishes, while a little bowl of marinated olives comes to help the decision process. The fresh and tangy bruschetta is piled high with plump, juicy red tomatoes on crusty home-made bread, while a satisfyingly earthy crunch comes from the funghi fritti, battered mushrooms, deep-fried with a cooling garlic mayonnaise. For the main course, choose from a variety of generously topped pizzas, including the calzone, stuffed with tomatoes, mozzarella and cotta ham. Home-made pastas come in generous portions, from a linguine with sliced chicken in a light creamy tomato sauce, to the baked al forno, which comes to the table in a tinfoil parcel of steamy flavours. Desserts are Italian standards, ice-cream and the tiramisù, each with a little Italian flag perched on top. + Lovely fresh tomatoes and salads - Gimicky electric cheese grater

✱ The Italian Caffè

92 Albion Street, Merchant City, G1 1NY (Map 7: C2, 23) 0141 552 3186, theitaliancaffe.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon– 10pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm. Veg; Pre; HW £15.95; Wh. £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

The food here more than matches the elegant surroundings dispelling any initial fears over Merchant City style over substance. Serving a tapas-style menu invigorates a scene overladen with the usual pizza and pasta suspects, and the ability to sample a wide range of dishes is a markedly different Italian experience that’s a rare pleasure. Bread so fresh it melts in the mouth is followed by delicate and richly textured carpaccio, the roast potatoes are a perfect balance of crunch and soft, while the marvellous saltimbocca brings tender pork wrapped in juicy, salty ham. The panna cotta is a refined and delicious dessert to end the evening. Wine lovers will enjoy the enoteca selection of fine wines, and a variety of set menus will allow for regular visits without winning the lottery. Quite distinct in feel and approach from its sister the Italian Kitchen, the Italian Caffè is a classy but welcoming restaurant that gets it absolutely right from start to finish. It’s a pleasure for all the senses, with dishes that perfectly combine style with quality. + Stunning panna cotta - Acoustics make it hard to hear companion

The Italian Kitchen

64 Ingram Street, Merchant City, G1 1EX (Map 7: C1, 18) 0141 572 1472, italian-kitchen.co.uk | Mon–Thu & Sun noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–11.00pm. Veg; Pre; HW £15.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £12.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

It could be argued the Italian Kitchen is a victim of its own success – it is almost always busy so service can occasionally stretch, and booking ahead is pretty much a must. Put that aside and what you get is a restaurant with a lovely atmosphere, a varied menu and a meal that won’t break the bank – the wine list is pretty good too. The heat from the huge pizza oven greets you as you walk in making the high ceilings not seem so high at all. There’s a decent selection of antipasti to choose from – the smoked salmon and spinach frittata is the perfect portion size and light enough to tantalise. The pizzas here won an award a few years ago and they are still great. Fish and seafood dishes change daily, but the seafood risotto is always on the menu and understandably so – it’s an impressive creation, pleasing to look at and cooked superbly. All desserts and ice-cream are home-made – for a visual treat alone try the apple tart. + Nice atmosphere - Sitting near the draughty door

linguine – one of the most popular dishes – represents the safe territory most of the menu occupies, while specials such as pork belly stuffed with breadcrumbs reveal the kitchen’s wilder side, with mixed results. Good news for non-meat eaters – a new vegetarian menu launches in March. + Stupendous bellini - Need binoculars for the specials board

Lamora

1166–1170 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8TE (Map 9: E5, 110) 0141 560 2070, lamorakitchen.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon– 2.30pm, 5–10pm; Sun 12.30–2.30pm, 5–10pm. Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £10 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Run by a father and son team Lamora’s ethos is all about serving great food at a price that won’t break the bank. The restaurant is a nice, large open space with very little clutter; however, postcards from regulars dotted about a couple of walls give a nice personal touch. The compact menu appears to succeed because it doesn’t try too hard, keeping things simple, and to good effect. Among the small selection of starters is a delicious chicken liver pâté, full of flavour and a perfectly pitched portion size. The gnocchi dolcelatte is also a highlight, light and oh so moreish. The mains selection doesn’t stray far from Italian classics, including popular pastas and huge stone-baked pizzas. If its meat you are after then the veal saltimbocca will be a tender treat, with the lemon butter sauce complementing the greens and potatoes perfectly. The restaurant has a good wine list and they will happily recommend the ideal choice for your meal. Go for the gelato to finish, the

Strawberry Blonde is ideal for sharing. + Doggy bags available for excess pizza - Baby change area

La Lanterna

35 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 6AE (Map 6: C4, 95) 0141 221 9160, lalanterna-glasgow.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sat noon– 11pm. Closed Sun. Pre; HW £14.95; Kids. £10.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

This family-run restaurant has been going for 40 years and it is easy to see why. Go down the steps into a welcoming dining area with dark wooden beams across the ceiling and yellowing cream walls and expect fine authentic Italian food. The waiters are old hands, knowledgeable and confident in a menu that takes in many of the cuisine’s popular classics. To start, the gran antipasto lanterna is a feast of cured meat, superior proscuttio, with fresh, clean buffalo mozzarella and roasted balsamic peppers. Verdurine fritte sees aubergines and mushrooms deep-fried in the lightest batter with a thick home-made garlic mayonnaise. The main menu is an encyclopedia of pastas, raviolis, risottos and traditional dishes, such as saltimbocca alla Romana, where tender British veal cooked in a white wine sauce is served topped with Parma ham and rucola cheese. To finish, La Lanterna serves a top tiramisù, still made to the recipe owner Christopher Martinolli’s mother served when the restaurant first opened in 1970. + Delicious puddings - Overwhelming choice on menu

The Little Café

1361 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8AF See Cafés

Jamie’s Italian

1 George Square, City Centre, G1 1HL (Map 7: B1, 1) 0141 404 2690, jamiesitalian.com | Mon–Sat noon– 11pm; Sun noon–10.30pm. HW £15.85; Kids; Wh. £17.50 (lunch) / £17.50 (dinner)

The much-anticipated arrival of Jamie’s Italian in 2010 resulted in block-busting queues as Glaswegians vied for a table at Oliver’s cavernous George Square eatery. The stampede has dispersed – bookings are now taken – but it still seems to be working towards justifying rather than building upon its initial popularity. Service proceeds as though half the city is still parked outside, but the effort is reassuring and the food several notches above average. The impersonal nature of such a huge room is offset by clever use of space, colour and lighting: the illusionary paper-like chandelier, the intimate blocks of tables and eye-catching displays of vegetables and cured meats. A starter of Caprese salad demonstrates the excellence of the produce; the crispy squid is flawlessly executed if a little stingy. The prawn

Lunch and pre-theatre menu 12 - 6.30pm £12.95 for two courses £15.95 for three courses

The Italian Kitchen CAFFE PIZZERIA

64 INGRAM STREET, GLASGOW 0141 572 1472 www.italian-kitchen.co.uk The List Eating & Drinking Guide 155

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list.co.uk

Glasgow Mediterraneo

159 Ingram Street, Merchant City, G1 1DW (Map 7: B1, 3) 0141 552 0460, medglasgow.com | Mon–Sun noon–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–1am.] Pre; HW £15.25; Kids; Wh. £7.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Mediterraneo was the final venture for famous Glasgow restaurateur Mario Romano who sadly passed away in 2011. Having been behind so many of the city’s best known Italian venues, this place certainly looks the part – large, bright and in a great location. Add a Champagne Bar into the mix and it is a popular choice for a whole evening out for many, not to forget the leisurely lunchers and tourists. Aiming to please such a diverse clientele means the varied menu can be in danger of stretching the kitchen. Here, a full A4-size choice of starters includes a satisfying bruchetta with smoked salmon, packed with flavour, though the sautéed king prawns are disappointingly un-king like in stature. Prices of some fish and meat mains can raise an eyebrow – although this is the heart of Glasgow’s designer shopping district, after all. Pastas include penne alla contadina, with perfectly cooked pasta deftly balanced with a rich, creamy sauce. The ice-cream filled crêpe is a good-looker, with a serious sugar whack, while the cheesecake’s ample proportions are still able to hide beneath a glut of strawberry sauce. + Large place, good for groups - Not the cheapest menu

O Sole Mio

34–36 Bath Street, City Centre, G2 1HG (Map 6: D3, 50) 0141 331 1397, osolemioglasgow.com | Mon–Sun 11am–11pm. Veg; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; T/A. £9.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

O Sole Mio has been serving customers for 47 years, and since changing hands more than a year ago the restaurant still promises to not disappoint. The menu is very varied, the staff are exceptionally pleasant, and the venue’s new look is

TIPList FOR PIZZAS • Bier Halle 2-exceptionally-goodpizzas-4-1 114 • BrewDog Limited selection but tremendous quality 115 • Delizique If delizique made pizzas . . . 125 • The Italian Kitchen A huge oven delivers outstanding pizzas 155 • Lamora Enjoy in the restaurant or from the adjoining takeaway 155 • The Little Café Thin and crispy delights at nice prices 137 • O Sole Mio Pizzas from Scotland’s oldest woodﬁred oven 156 • Vespbar Theatrical pizzas by the metre 122

Wee Cucina (page 158): this Southside restaurant may only be small but it is big on flavours

sleek yet cosy. Settle yourself in a nice booth by the window and you can watch the world go by while enjoying some fine Italian food. The carpaccio di manzo is the pick of the antipasti – the fillet so tender it almost melts in your mouth – though the grilled tiger prawns, huge and juicy, in a lemon and chilli dressing come a close second. A good selection of pizzas, pastas and meat dishes are on offer – with the traditionally made tagliatelle carbonara (no cream added here) a highlight from the well-proportioned pasta dishes. The seafood fritto misto is also recommended, a deft creation with the lightest of batters enveloping some beautifully fresh seafood. The desserts are perhaps the let down – the choice isn’t massive; however, the cannoli is good, the panacotta better. + Enticing menu - Some pre-theatre dishes should be on the à la carte

Osteria Piero

111 West Regent Street, City Centre, G2 2RU (Map 6: C3, 56) 0141 248 3471, osteriapiero.co.uk | Mon–Fri 7.45am– 10.30pm; Sat 10am–10.30pm; Sun noon–8pm. Pre; HW £15.90; Kids. £9.50 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

This trattoria-style restaurant has an intimate but laid-back atmosphere – the wood-panelled interior creates warmth and the the service of beer from a barrel in front of the bar is a fun, quirky feature. To start, the seafood filo parcel has a nest of Scottish seafood rather strangely presented in the middle of four open layers of filo, which lets down the delicate buttery fish. While the range of platters look tempting, the chicken livers on crunchy toasted bread are excellent with the meat juicy and packed with flavour. From an inviting and diverse menu, osso buco comes with rich well-seasoned risotto and is a hearty but refined main, although the rabbit with polenta is a disappointment – oddly presented on a thick polenta patty, the meat isn’t tender enough and the gravy nondescript, lacking depth and flavour. Still, there’s the excellent rum-soaked sweet bread with ice-cream to cheer the soul. A mixed experience showing promise but no consistency – leaving you wondering what could have been. + Unusual and varied menu - Erratic service and pricey house red

Paperino’s (Byres)

• 227 Byres Road, Glasgow, West End, G12 8UD (Map 9: D2, 37) 01413343811 | Mon–Sun noon–10.45pm. Veg; Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £9.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner) • 78 St Vincent Street, City Centre, G2 5UB (Map 6: D4, 66) 0141 248 7878 | Mon– Wed noon–3pm, 5–10.50pm; Thu–Sun noon–10.50pm. Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £8.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner) • 283 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3HQ (Map 6: B2, 16) 0141 332 3800 | Mon–Thu noon–3pm, 5–11pm; Fri–Sun noon–11pm. Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £8.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

With two City Centre venues and a branch in the West End, Paperino’s has become a byword for quick and easy Italian food. The original Sauchiehall Street branch is most intimate, with wooden booths, dim lights and terracotta tiles, while the newer St Vincent Street restaurant features a grand marble staircase. Byres Road is larger, popular with large groups and families, but the permanent menu is the same in each branch, focused on pasta, pizza and Italian meat and fish dishes, with plenty of options for vegetarians too. Starters include sticky, spicy chicken wings and breaded fried mozzarella sticks, but the standout is the ravioli d’aragosta – parcels of delicious pink lobster in a light creamy tomato sauce. Main courses include pollo Milanese, a breaded chicken fillet served with skinny fries and salad, while the pancetta pizza was full of the flavours of cured meat and garlic, let down only by the fatty pancetta not being crisp enough. Rich desserts include tiramisù and the daily cheesecake, all served with a garnish of fresh raspberries and blueberries. + Reliable menu with no surprises - Damp pepper shaker

✱ La Parmigiana

447 Great Western Road, West End, G12 8HH (Map 9: F2, 61) 0141 334 0686, laparmigiana.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon– 2.30pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun 12.30–6pm. Pre; HW £19.40; Kids. £15.90 (set lunch) / £29 (dinner)

Behind the frosted glass window is a little nest of beautifully laid tables, deep red walls, dark wood and a ceiling as crisp and white as the stiffly folded napkins. The service, all starched aprons and

bow ties, may be formal but it is also friendly, no doubt conscious that eating here is a seriously special event for many diners. Farfalle alla salsiccia has nuggets of sausage hiding in butterflies of hand-made pasta and a fantastic, deeply rich tomato sauce. First courses aren’t all pasta – Minch scallops, perfectly plump, juicy, and dressed with lime, lie on a bed of crisp, peppery rocket. Mains are meaty – Scottish beef and salmon, venison and guinea fowl, each dish as beautifully presented as it is delicious. A dessert of lemon ice-cream, sharp and sweet, with crystallised kumquats in a spun sugar basket is a stunner, demanding special metion here. It isn’t cheap but you get what you pay for, with every penny spent visible on the plate or treating the tastebuds. The pre-theatre menu, and early-dining options offer a fine set of dishes for the more modest pocket. + Fine dining Italian style - Hard butter with table bread

The Partners Italian Bistro

1051 Great Western Road, West End, G12 0XP (Map 9: E1, off ) 0141 339 5575, theitalianbistro.co.uk | Sun–Thu 10am– 10pm; Fri/Sat 10am–11pm. Pre/Post; HW £18; Kids; Wh; T/A. £10 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

This classy looking bistro tucked away near Anniesland offers an upmarket experience within a highly stylised, spacious interior. A lovely buttery, rich crab fettucine is a great opener, but though the dolcelatte soufflé is in itself satisfying, the accompanying nuts were a strange choice. The carbonara is a gratifying take on an old favourite, while the pollo ripieno features tenderly cooked chicken with creamy, well-flavoured Parmesan mash. Elsewhere on the menu you’ll find a familiar mix of pizzas and pastas, offering wide appeal to the varied diners. The fettucine allo scoglio is a good choice for seafood fans with a generous mix of mussles, calamari and crayfish.The dessert menu offers more Italian standards, and either the tiramisù or cheesecake won’t disappoint, and both come attractively presented. A rich Malbec kept the food in decent company throughout. With its familiar choices the Italian Bistro isn’t seeking to innovate or scale culinary heights, but in providing well-prepared food in a congenial atmosphere, it’s a reliably agreeable option for a family meal or night out with friends.

156 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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In association with

Glasgow + Crab fettucine bursting with flavour - Sweet candied nuts with soufflé

Pesto

57–61 St Vincent St, City Centre, G2 5TS (Map 6: D4, 103) 0141 204 0979, pestorestaurants.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–11pm; Sun 12.30–11pm.] Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £7.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The Pesto brand has come to Glasgow with this huge, welcoming venue. The concept is tapas-style Italian, offering a myriad of small dishes for sharing. Choose two or three dishes each, but be prepared to hog the ones that you really like. The menu takes in a range of little pastas, from tagliatelle con porcini – a filling dish with wide strips of pasta and mushrooms in a thick creamy sauce, to linguine al cartoccio, which arrives freshly baked in a twist of parchment paper filled with pasta, prawns and fresh salsa flavours. The 5-inch pizzetta alla Fiorentina is delicious topped with wilted spinach and a quail’s egg cracked in the middle, the pale yolk still runny. There are plenty of dishes to mix up the pizza and pasta, from deep-fried calamari rings, chicken skewers, and patate di origano – crispy sautéed potatoes with a tomato tapenade. On the meatier side, the peposo has chunks of slow-cooked beef and potatoes in a fiery stew of tomatoes, red wine and black pepper. Fun-size food in a king-size restaurant. + Genuinely welcoming service - Home-made desserts would be nice

Piccolo Mondo

• 344 Argyle Street, City Centre, G2 8LY (Map 6: C4, 93) 0141 248 2481, piccolomondo.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon– 2.15pm, 5.30–10pm. Closed Sun. Pre; HW £17.50; Wh. £12.50 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner) • 63 Hairst Street, Southside, PA4 8QU, 0141 885 1011 | Tue–Sat noon–2.15pm, 5.30–10pm. HW £17.50; Wh. £12.50 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

Family-run with a considerable legacy, the period interior and elegant furnishings make you feel you are wandering onto a Fellini set with velvet drapes and statues lining an airy corniced dining room. If you can book it try the ‘celebration menu’ – outstanding value including a cocktail and an excellent wine selection. A colourful Caprese salad is refreshing and light and the Scottish mussels taste straight from the sea. The lamb jigot is off the bone, fantastically tender and perfectly seasoned with Tuscan herbs, while the salmon fillet is lightly poached without losing texture and retaining natural flavours enhanced by a cream sauce. Classy service from stylish staff is conscientious without being overly formal. A light and delicate tiramisù brings a consistently high-quality experience to a close. There’s also an express lunch, offering exceptional value for a treat when shopping, and 20 wines by the glass will keep wine-buffs happy on the inevitable return visits. The city restaurant has a buzz to it and tables often turn around quickly though the quality of service means this shouldn’t be an issue. However, the recently opened Renfrew Piccolo Mondo has a bar that allows an aperitif or post-meal drink to extend the experience making it worthwhile for city residents or an excellent option for out-of-towners. A luxurious and enjoyable experience that does credit to the restaurant’s history. + Unique style makes you feel like you’re in a movie - Noise from through the wall – but barely dented a fantastic atmosphere

Pulcinella

167 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 2UQ (Map 6: C3, 58) 0141 572 0575, pulcinella. co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 5–10pm; Sat noon–10.30pm; Sun 5–10pm. Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £7.90 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Pulcinella radiates tradition – checked table cloths, walls crammed with souvenirs – which you’ll either find charming or a bit tired, but the friendly staff chattering away in Italian certainly add to the ambience. The menu offers a range of familiar pastas, pizzas and mains, but for the adventurous the fish stew is a gratifyingly unusual option – as is the lamb’s liver. Among the antipasti, the fagioli e salsiccia are hearty, full of authentic flavours, with crisp yet light focaccia. From the mains, the gamberoni prawns are a good option, juicy and nicely seasoned, although the calamari luciana was slightly overcooked. The rich chocolate mousse tops an evening off nicely and should be kept firmly in mind while tackling the generous portions beforehand. The wine list is varied, with a dozen by the glass, and the modestly priced primitivo and sangiovese are a good complement to the food. Pulcinella is an established favourite with nearby workers enjoying the bargain-value lunch and pre-theatre menus, while for evening dining it offers a reliably solid kitchen and a familiar, welcoming atmosphere. + Rustic fagioli e salsiccia was full of flavour - Overdone squid for main

✱ Ristorante Teatro

61 Elmbank Street, City Centre, G2 4PQ (Map 6: A2, 112) 0141 332 3565, teatrorestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5pm–9.30pm; Fri–Sat noon–11pm. Closed Sun. Veg; Pre. £6.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

made pâté have an unusual texture but moreish taste. A large selection of pasta dishes sit alongside the more expensive meat, chicken and fish plates – the chef’s choice of fresh sole cooked in white wine and lemon juice melts in the mouth, while from the pastas the rigatoni alla Norcina has a hint of brandy for a surprising kick. Note there is no pizza on the menu. An extensive wine list more than satisfies fans of the grape, with wines from every region of Italy on offer. All in all well worth the trip out of the city. + Warmest of welcomes - Desserts somewhat predictable

Tony Macaroni

4 Byres Road, West End, G11 5JY (Map 9: C3, 17) 0141 334 5959, tonymacaroni. co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–10.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–11.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–midnight.] Veg; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £4.95 (1 course) (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The three levels, cocktail bar and bigscreen Italian films at this West End restaurant help attract a bustling crowd. Char-grilled pork ribs are a speciality, either as a starter or main, available in a half or full rack smothered with a sweet, tangy, tomatoey chilli sauce. There’s an array of pastas, ranging from spaghetti bolognese to a beautiful seafood linguine with fresh clams and fat, juicy prawns. Pizzas are crisp and stone-baked, either rossa (with tomatoes), or bianca, (without), topped with anything from olives and artichokes to haddock and leeks. There’s family-friendly burger and chips, Italian style, with pork and mozzarella, while the high end of the menu offers veal saltimbocca, or nicely pan-fried sea bass, complemented by the rich saltiness of pancetta and peas.

Desserts are flamboyant, riotously dusted with cocoa, sugar and flayed strawberries. Next door is Tony 2 Go, with pizza and pastas for takeaway. + Beautiful fresh seafood - Pizza topping bit stingy

Torna Sorrento

148 Woodlands Road, West End, G3 6LF (Map 9: H4, 80) 0141 332 2288, tornasorrento.com | Tue–Sat noon– 2.30pm, 5–10pm; Sun 5.30–10pm. Closed Mon. Veg; Pre; HW £13.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £11 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

This modest eatery retains a welcome place in Glasgow’s Italian scene. Serving up traditional Italian food in simple, unpretentious ways, fresh ingredients and appealing presentation lift familiar dishes above the ordinary. Seafood crostini and arancini are the antipasti standouts while among the mains the saltimbocca and veal arrive tenderly cooked.Classic Italian pastas like aglio e oglio and amatriciana provide great mid-range options and the taste of a real trattoria. The pre-theatre is worth checking out with sea bream and prawn pasta among the selections. While the wine list is decent if not outstanding, the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is good value at the lower end of the price list.No surprises among the deserts-the tiramisu is a winner. Don’t let the uninspiring décor put you off, Torna Sorrento’s charm lies in its ability to deliver an Italian meal the way Italians would and friendly staff enhance this with laidback but attentive service. It’s a good example of how to serve up established cuisine with affection and the end result is an authentic and tasty experience. + Tasty versions of Italian classics - Décor doesn’t do the food justice

Only open for five months at the time of writing, Ristorante Teatro is a charming little basement eatery across the road from the King’s Theatre, well placed for pretheatre diners. The décor is bright, modern and intimate, with stained-glass panels in the doors preserved from the previous incarnation as Sannino. Settle into the pale leather seats with some bread, dipping oil and olives, and peruse a menu of classic Italian dishes, all skilfully prepared using carefully sourced ingredients. Starters include fried calamari, served in a scallop shell with a wedge of lemon and fresh salsa, or Isle of Barra scallops, delivered fresh every day, seared and served with spicy sausage and well-dressed rocket salad. Nicely presented main courses take in sea bass and scallops, fillet steak and chicken, along with authentic hand-made pasta cooked al dente. The risotto funghi is a delicious pile of gooey rice and wild mushrooms drizzled with truffle oil. Finish with a flourish and try the homemade tiramisù of coffee-flavoured cream and soft biscuit, served with a glass of prosecco and strawberry syrup. + Fantastic fresh seafood - Where’s the highchair?

Roma Mia

162–164 Darnley Street, Southside, G41 2LL (Map 8: D1, off ) 0141 423 6694, romamiaglasgow.co.uk | Tue–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun 5.30– 10.30pm. Closed Mon. Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £10.95 (Tue–Sat) (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

The same family has run Roma Mia for almost 15 years and, thanks to a facelift in 2011, it has a contemporary look to rival any City Centre venue. Popular with many a Southside resident, the restaurant does authentic Italian dishes, and coupled with the warmest of welcomes, it almost feels like you could be dining on the continent. Among the antipasti are many Italian staples; the mushrooms stuffed with home-

The Italian Caffè ENOTECA MANGIARE AL FORNO

Lunch and pre-theatre menu 12 - 6.30pm from £8.95 Hitlisted by The List Eating and Drinking Guide 2008, 2009 and 2010/11 92 Albion Street Glasgow G1 1NY Telephone 0141 552 3186 www.theitaliancaffe.co.uk

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Verona

88 West Regent Street, City Centre, G2 2QZ (Map 6: D3, 52) 0141 332 7414, verona-glasgow.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon– 3pm, 5–10pm; Fri–Sun noon–10pm. Pre; HW £12.50; Kids; Wh; T/A. £6 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Verona is very much the new boy in town finding his feet having opened in January 2012. Set aside the gaudy neon lighting outside and an interior which is about as authentically Italian as a fake Gucci handbag and there is a not bad menu on offer. With grey walls and black leather booths encouraging a lounge bar vibe the restaurant is about as far removed from actual Verona as you can get. The saving grace is the food, which is fresh and tasty, and a £7 for three courses lunch deal is a bargain. Go a la carte and the calamari to start is fried to perfection while the traditional bruchetta is served with just the right amount of mozzarella to avoid soggy bread. The main courses are very much ‘man-sized’ with the Calzone Veg packing both an aesthetic and taste punch. Pasta-wise the Tagliatelle Casa Mia with chicken, mushroom and broccoli is creamy and filling. The small dessert menu is a bit of a let down, with the two most appealing not being available (on a quiet week night surely this shouldn’t be the case) - however the pistachio ice cream is worth a taste. + Great lunch deal - Unauthentic look and feel

La Vita

161 Queen Street, City Centre, G1 3BJ (Map 6: E4, 70) 0141 248 3533, lavitapizzeria.co.uk | Mon–Sat 7.30am– 11pm; Sun 9am–11pm. Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £7.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

You can’t get much more central than La Vita’s, and despite being spread over three floors it manages a cosy, traditional Italian vibe. It is a busy place, with booking on most nights recommended, and you are still likely to be just a few centimetres away from fellow diners. In return though you get a huge selection of hearty Italian dishes. There are several set menus to choose from if you visit at lunchtime or early evening. Go à la carte and among your usual suspects are some dishes with an interesting twist – a pizza with black pudding and ‘Pizza Haw-You’ capitalising on the Scottish palate. To start, the pâté della casa with home-made bread is tasty even if presented a little oddly (think Mr Whippy ice-cream). Try the ‘Mamma’ or ‘Nonna’ as a main dish for a large plate of pasta you can imagine being served in any Italian household. Steaks, veal, seafood and burgers are on the menu too, and if you have kids then they are well catered for in this lively restaurant. + Friendly staff - Poor selection of desserts

La Vita Spuntini

199–201 Byres Road, West End, G12 8TN (Map 9: C2, 28) 0141 339 4222, lavitapizzeria.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon– 11pm. HW £14.95; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £6.99 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Italian tapas is an intriguing concept, with the menu at La Vita Spuntini offering a host of small mix-and-match meat, fish and vegetable dishes, larger bowls of pasta for sharing, and dinky ‘pizzettes’. Duck and black pudding in red currant jus is outstandingly rich and meaty; though the spicy sausage skewers wrapped in beef are rather grey and uninspiring, while the slow-cooked stew of veal shin could leave the diner searching for the meat among the fat and gristle. Fish and vegetable dishes are much stronger – bruschetta is bright and fresh, roasted sardines come with the pleasing punch of mint and white wine vinegar, and the aubergine and courgette Parmigiana is rich and gooey. Dessert options include large dishes for two to share – pizza dolci is topped with Nutella, banana and mascarpone – and also generous single portions, such as fig brûlée or the delicious dough sticks with chocolate dipping sauce. With its bright, gaudy interior and large tables, La Vita Spuntini is a tempting stop for a party night out in the West End. + Huge variety - Meat dishes can be hit and miss

Wee Cucina

205 Fenwick Road, Southside, G46 6JD (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 621 1903, weecucina. com | Mon–Sat noon–9.15pm; Sun 12.30–9.15pm. Veg; Pre; HW £13.95. £11.95 (3 plates) (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Wee Cucina opened in spring 2011, quickly becoming a popular choice with local diners. As it says, it’s small – but with an intimacy perfect for couples in the evening, whereas go at tea-time and it is family friendly. An enticing menu of Italian tapas or ‘piccoli piatti’ is large and varied – six plates between two is ample. The staff are keen to tell you how fresh their ingredients are and they don’t disappoint. The zucchine e fritti is juicy and crunchy, the pollo limone incredibly tender, and the mini pizzas and focaccias are ideal for sharing (or as a kid’s meal). For those who prefer a traditional main course there is a good selection of pasta and risotto favourites. The choice of desserts might not be massive, and the crème brûlée may not be an Italian classic – but it is home-made, delicious and served in a perfectly sized little pot. If you find yourself in the area, at a loose end or just hungry for some good Italian tapas, Wee Cucina is definitely a place to try. + Small, fresh dishes perfect for sharing - More desserts please

list.co.uk

MEXICAN It seems Mexican cuisine is experiencing a bit of revival of late, perhaps driven by the new wave in street food sweeping the nation from all points of the globe. If maize (corn) is the staple of Mexican food, then the taco is king. Mexi co has myriad ways with this versatile ingredient, from familiar favourites such as cheesy chilli nachos, tortillas, burritos and the like, you can fill your boots while you walk or sit in with all manner of meat and veggie goodness. So spice things up with a jalapeño or two and savour some true Mexican flavours from our pick of the new and established venues dotted about the city − from bar kitchen, cosy bistro to larger eateries. Reviewer: Carolyn McTaggart

✱ Bibi’s Cantina

599 Dumbarton Road, West End, G11 6HY (Map 9: A3, off) 0141 579 0179, bibiscantina.com | Mon–Sat noon–10pm; Sun 1–10pm. Veg; Pre; HW £13.50; Kids; Wh. £10 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

It’s often said that if you venture off the beaten track you’ll find treasures. This is true of Bibi’s – a cosy candlelit bistro offering fresh authentic Mexican-inspired cuisine at the west end of Dumbarton Road, but just a stroll from Partick Station. It’s got a buzzy neighbourhood feel, decorated with Mexican prints, colourful Aztec tiles, clay masks and rustic wooden tables. The welcome is cheery, with a complimentary frozen margarita shot and wholesome nachos to set you off on a happy culinary trail. Jalapeno chillis stuffed with cream cheese are light and crispy while a steamy bowl of classic Mexican herby meatball soup is rich with ripe tomatoes. Well-balanced textures, flavours and colours are also evident in perfectly cooked fresh pollock, subtly marinated in tequila, chilli, garlic and coriander served with fresh guacamole, rice and tortilla. Ideal for a bite on the go, leisurely lunch with the kids or a romantic meal, menus can be adapted to suit all tastes and party sizes. And to heighten the experience there’s an impressive list of regional Spanish and South American wines, beers and liqueurs. + Fresh home-made Mexican fare in a friendly bistro - No room to finish lush lime and ginger cheesecake

✱ HITLIST MEXICAN ✱ Bibi’s Cantina Streets ahead for a fresh home-made take on authentic Mexican flavours in a lively bistro-style setting. accompanied by fresh salsa, guacamole, and sour cream and Monterey Jack cheese, keeping flavours well balanced. With an impressive 27 small tapas dishes (available on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, from £1), starters and large mains such as veggie or chilli con carne, shredded beef and mole chicken, there’s plenty here to feast upon. Love it or loathe it? − the jury is out on bread and butter pudding of cinnamon, star anise, raisins, cheese, almonds and heavy dash of cognac. + Fresh ingredients and home-made Mexican flavours - Dim lighting makes menu hard to read

Pancho Villa’s

26 Bell Street, Merchant City, G1 1LG (Map 7: C2, 27) 0141 552 7737, panchovillas.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon– 2pm, 5pm–late; Fri/Sat noon–late; Sun 5pm–late. Veg; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh. £8.50 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

After 15 years, Pancho’s fairly pedestrian approach to well-worn dishes makes for a dependable option in this trendy quarter of the city. It’s a spacious venue with bold terracotta theme and sombreros dotted about – welcomed by large groups from birthday celebrations, stag and hen parties to family gatherings and business get-togethers. A wide choice of nachos, quesadillas, fajitas, enchiladas and burritos lift spirits and come with ubiquitous sides of hot chilli salsa, guacamole, cheese and sour cream;

Nachos

rava

Proud to be Hitlisted in The List Eating and Drinking Guide 2011

"Great food, great service, great coffee too - bravo La Brava" The List La Brava 679a Clarkston Road Glasgow East Renfrewshire G44 3SE 0141 569 6257 www.la-brava.co.uk

15 Skirving Street, Southside, G41 3AB (Map 8: A4, 19) 0141 616 6666 | Tue–Sun 4–10pm. Closed Mon. Veg; Pre; HW £11.95; Kids; T/A. £13 (dinner)

Nachos is the Southside’s newest and only Mexican restaurant, located upstairs in a spacious open-plan dining room, well suited to couples, groups and families, where Mexico’s cultural and architectural icons are illustrated in colourful spraypainted murals. With a Mexican chef in the kitchen expect some genuine flavours from classics such as tacos, fajitas, burritos, enchiladas, quesadillas and chimichungas, which come in a variety of meat, chicken, seafood and veggie combos. Don’t worry whether you’re a wimp or junkie when it comes to chilli heat as the sauces and salsas are spiced to order – regular, hot or extreme. Crispy corn or super soft tortillas are

Bibi’s Cantina: this cosy Partick bistro offers the

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Glasgow however they seem uninspired in their execution. Sharing veggie combo platter disappoints – heavy in deep-fried, possibly frozen selection. Undercooked texture and appearance of the coating on the cheese stuffed green chillis could be improved. Better reception for generoussized main courses. Burrito of shredded spicy beef on a bed of rice satisfies and the tender king prawns with soft tortilla wraps have a nice chilli kick. For afters, the churros doughnuts are perfect for dipping in the not-too-sweet hot toffee sauce but maybe too greasy for some, while the Mexican flan set custard arrives pretty as a picture. + Generous portions - Predictable

Pinto Mexican Kitchen

138 Queen Street, City Centre, G1 3BX (Map 6: E4, 87) 0141 221 9330, pintomexican.com | Mon–Thu 11am– 10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun noon–10pm. Kids; Wh; T/A. £8.50 (lunch) / £8.50 (dinner)

Off George Square, this fast-food bar kitchen serves Tex-Mex-style food in a clean, bright and lively space. From the bright lights, stools and tables to the Mexican print feature wall, colours are eye-catching chilli red, sunshine yellow and lime. Hearty pots of soup are meals in themselves – more like chowder – a bit bland but can be spiced to order with an array of sauces and salsas. Conveniently, Pinto has mapped these on the Scoville scale – a gauge of spicy heat level of different varieties of chilli peppers. Its burritos are more American style – larger than Mexican ones and stuffed with more ingredients than the principal meat or vegetable filling. Pinto or black beans, rice, guacamole, salsas, cheese and sour cream are all added to the soft tortilla parcel. Familiar tacos and nachos are also customisable from a smorgasbord of fillings and salad. The opportunity to sip a refreshing home-made lemonade, ice cold Mexican beer or Margarita is a bonus. Whether you choose to sit in or take away, Pinto is an alternative city centre pit stop if feeling famished. + Alcohol licence and lively Latin music - Mushy onions and peppers

Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen

• 261 Byres Road, West End, G12 8TL • 6 Renﬁeld Street, City Centre, G2 5AL See Takeaway & Home Delivery

offers the best Mexican food in town

NORTH AMERICAN Glasgow’s North American restaurants are small in selection, but big on portion sizes and flavour. From cute and homely to fun and funky, each of these restaurants add a grind or two of their own distinct personalities to create individual takes on American dining. Take the food for what it is and you will enjoy it: burgers, nachos, gumbos and of course, bucketfuls of fries. It is simple, hearty home cooking which appeals to hungry little mouths and adults alike. Reviewer: Erica Goodey

✱ Ad Lib

• 111 Hope Street, City Centre, G2 6LL (Map 6: C4, 85) 0141 248 6645, adlibglasgow.com | Mon–Sat noon– 10pm; Sun noon–9.30pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat noon– midnight.] HW £14. £14 (lunch) / £15 (dinner) • 33 Ingram Street, Merchant City, G1 1HA (Map 7: D1, 22) , adlibglasgow. com | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Sun–Wed noon–11pm; Thu–Sat noon– midnight.] HW £14; Kids; Wh; T/A. £14 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Both branches of Ad Lib share a menu that infuses a melting pot of global influences and a dash of Glasgow charm. The narrow New York-style bar at Hope St leads onto the large dining courtyard area, with red walls, rail lighting and photographs of iconic Americans. It is stylish but not pretentious and has a lovely laid-back atmosphere. While a plethora of burgers and burritos present themselves on the menu, a sophisticated flair also glistens in a chorizo, pork and roast garlic terrine starter with sweet onion chutney, or in the lime and smoked chilli aioli which is served with the Cajun king prawn ‘popcorn’. Specials may include such delights as sea bream fillets with chilli-crushed potatoes, but for traditional American fare there’s a range of kick-ass burgers including gourmet beef, Southern-fried chicken or Moroccan

lamb. The unusual Tex-Mex mash-up with hints of gastropub and a stylish interior in central location make the City Centre restaurant-come-bar a good-value choice. In spring 2012, the former fire station doors opened (once again) to its sister restaurant on Ingram St. With the same relaxed vibe as Hope St, this large marble-walled cavern of a bar could be a great place to chill out over a spot of soul food. + Über relaxed atmosphere - Dining area can get smoked-out

Buzzy’s Restaurant and Bar

Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre, G1 3JX (Map 6: D4, 77) 0141 248 3969 | Sun–Wed 10am–8pm; Fri 10am– 9pm; Sat 10am–9.30pm. [Bar open: Sun– Thu 11am–8pm; Fri/Sat 11am–11pm.] Pre; HW £12; Kids; Wh. £14 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Apparently popular with parents looking for a place to park bags of shopping whilst their little darlings run amok around the shopping centre terrace, Buzzy’s isn’t the place to go if you’re looking for a refined restaurant. However, if you’re looking for a cocktail, a plate of nachos and a child-friendly venue, all wrapped up in a USA theme, this could be it. In true American style, there’s burgers-a-plenty and Tex-Mex dishes galore – or if you’re in for something lighter, there are also salads, sandwiches and nachos. For main courses, a burger coated in Cajun spices with a tangy blue cheese topping sadly has too many strong flavours going on at the same time. A Buzzy’s ‘classic’ – chicken breast drowned in creamy white wine sauce and, strangely, served on a sauce-soaked muffin, with bacon and a gratuitous blob of sour cream, is something akin to eggs benedict without the eggs. For dessert, the home-made sticky toffee pudding undoubtedly steals the show. + Window-shopping while you eat - Service can lack enthusiasm

Ketchup

• 44 Ashton Lane, West End, G12 8SJ (Map 9: D2, 30) 0845 166 6011, socialanimal.co.uk | Sun–Thu 11am– 11pm; Fri/Sat 11am–1am. LC; HW £14.25; Kids; T/A. £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner) • 1179 Pollokshaws Road, Southside, G41 3NQ (Map 8: A4, 20) 0845 659 5902 | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Mon/Tue noon–11pm, Wed–Sun noon– midnight.] HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Cynics may muse that Ketchup is Stephan King’s attempt to ‘start them early’ into the G1 mind-set, as the burgers and milkshakes ethos is clearly aimed at both students and children alike. Whatever ethos lies behind it, it is clearly working, as the place is often so jam-packed that there may well be a wait for a table – especially during week days when Glasgow’s hungry students can nab two for one burgers. The impressive menu is all about the burgers – from the usual beef, chicken and chickpea burgers to wild boar, Highland venison or, at £17.95, Kobe beef (from pampered beer-drinking Japanese cows. The Lady Penelope Pink Peppercorn Burger comes with hickory smoked bacon, pepper jack cheese and pink peppercorn sauce and is served on a wooden platter with a cute little dish of peppered coleslaw. Others such as the El Mariachi are like none you’ll have ever seen before – a conical taco-shell bowl full of chilli beef is balanced on top of the already bulging burger. All in all, ketchup defies the usual G1 lack of atmosphere curse by not taking itself too seriously. Its fun and funky take on American dining creates a lively buzz which is just what

✱ HITLIST NORTH AMERICAN ✱ Ad Lib This old Glasgow favourite keeps ‘em flocking in thanks to its globally influenced American food and stylish vibes across both venues. you want when wrapping your chops around a big-ass burger. + Student heaven - Student heaven

St Louis Cafe Bar

734 Dumbarton Road, West End, G11 7RD (Map 9: A3, off) 0141 339 1742, stlouis-cafebar.co.uk | Mon–Sat 9am–9pm; Sun 10am–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thurs 11am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11am– midnight; Sun 12.30–11pm.] HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £8 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

This family-run café-bar originally opened as just a café, but as its evening popularity grew so did its modest menu. The venue is as welcoming as a good friend’s living room with Klimt prints, fairy lights wrapped around pillars and an aged wooden cabinet, with good beers on tap and locals relaxing with the papers over a pint. The menu still reflects its café roots with a choice of unassuming filled rolls, soups, all-day breakfasts and ‘wee bites’ such as home-made hummus. However, for those looking for a little more, the USA theme kicks in with burgers, nachos, gumbos and pies. The chicken and chorizo gumbo comes complete with peppers, sweetcorn and a spicy, smoky tomato sauce, served with hot-buttered ciabatta and rice. Alternatively, a massive rack of ribs comes drenched in sweet barbecue sauce and served with huge chunks of Cajun roast potatoes. The food smacks of home cooking but desserts, such as the warm chocolate brownies, are both elegant and tasty. + Lovely staff and décor - Service can be overly relaxed

TIPList FOR BURGERS • Ad Lib Now with added burgers in new venue 159 • Bruadar Huge range, prettily presented 115 • Ketchup Bored of the beef? Go exotic here 159 • Lewbowskis Made with love and local produce 119 • Nice n Sleazy From the Monkey in the kitchen 120

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list.co.uk

Glasgow

ROUND the WORLD AFRICAS, AMERICAS, GREEK, MIDDLE EASTERN

TABLE Talk : IAN MCCOLM ON ZOMBIES Zombies are cool; they’re all over TV, zombie movies are being filmed in Glasgow, but far more interesting is the Zombie cocktail. We can thank the founder of the first ever Tiki Bar, and creator of the Zombie cocktail, for the Polynesian pop culture that Tiki has become today. In the 1920s Ernest Raymond Beaumont Gannt, aka ‘Don the Beachcomber’, chose a round-the-world trip over Ivy League College, and returned to his native soil awash with seafaring tales and recipes for the exotic drinks he’d picked up from the South Seas. He set up his first bar in Hollywood and attracted many thirsty post-prohibition movie stars as regular customers. It was here he released his first Zombie on the public. It was the world’s most famous drink from that day until the dawn of disco and is the biggest seller at the Tiki Bar & Kitsch Inn to this day. It put Don’s Bar on the map and started the entire Tiki phenomenon. Don originally came up with the Zombie in 1934, but was continuously refining and improving his recipes, which were a closely guarded secret. We run with a tweaked version of his 1950s recipe in the Tiki Bar & Kitsch Inn. This is a potent mixture of four different rums, apricot brandy, pressed pink grapefruit juice, pressed pineapple juice, lime juice, home-made cinnamon syrup, home-made falernum, home-made grenadine, angostura bitters and a splash of absinthe. Garnished with an orange wedge, cocktail cherry, pineapple chunk and pineapple leaf all speared on a cocktail umbrella and served in a bespoke, Glasgow-made ceramic Tiki Mug. Perhaps Billy Connolly was right when he said that Zombie cocktails get you drunk from the Bottom Up. ■ Ian McColm is proprietor of the Tiki Bar & Kitsch Inn (see page 121).

Judging by the fascinating range of international fare on offer in Glasgow, from Turkish to Russian, African and Greek, it would be a mistake to think the city has nothing more to offer than deep-fried Mars Bars and chips. A meal at one of this section’s establishments will introduce your taste buds to incredible new dishes without breaking the bank – who knew, for example, that the traditional Kenyan maize dish, ugali, was available in the city or indeed Russian cabbage soup? Pay one of these places a visit and open your self up to a whole new world of flavours. Reviewers: Beth Allan, Emily Henderson, Carolyn McTaggart

Alla Turca MIDDLE EAST

192 Pitt Street, City Centre, G2 4DY (Map 6: B2, 15) 0141 332 5300, allaturca.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5–11pm; Sat noon–11pm; Sun 5–10pm. Veg; Pre/Post; HW £13.90; Kids (no under 5s after 6pm); Wh; T/A. £9.90 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Alla Turca mixes Scottish and Turkish fare well. The seafood salad of calamari and swordfish is the perfect size to whet your appetite, and is one of many interesting starters. These include carpaccio made with Scottish beef, olive oil and watercress, and melon with feta and mint salad. The mains are diverse as well – although the layout of the menu itself could be clearer – ranging from casseroles priced at a reasonable £11.90, to the rather wonderful barbequed duck shish with roast chestnut and mushroom salad. There are good vegetarian options too, such as pine nut and feta stuffed aubergine. Small squares of baklava are prettily presented with a scoop of

ice-cream, and come with a champagne cocktail – as do all desserts. Situated just off Sauchiehall Street, Alla Turca is an ideal place to enjoy a pre-theatre dinner or more leisurely meal before a night on the town, the addition of live music by a traditional lute player giving the venue a truly Turkish feel. + The chocolate and coffee pot dessert - Glass tables make for noisy dining

Anatolia Chargrill TURKISH

140 St Vincent St, City Centre, G2 5LA (Map 6: C3, 61) 0141 221 8777, anatoliachargrill.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–1am. Veg; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £6.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

On arrival at Anatolia Chargrill, olives and fresh bread with dipping oil are brought to the table, giving you something to nibble whilst perusing the menu. It’s worth ordering a tasting selection as there are several interesting hot and cold options, including spinich tarator – a spinach dip with yoghurt, garlic and olive oil – feta cheese, stuffed vine leaves and spicy sausages. One of the restaurant’s specialities, yogurtlu shish – cubes of lamb on bread with yoghurt and tomato sauce – is filling and well presented, but not piping hot as it should be. Steak, Turkish pizza, seafood and kebabs are also on offer. Baklava features on the menu but is not always available and the vermicelli-like pastry, called kadaif, is a bit of a disappointment in comparison. But the place is a good option if you want to sample authentic Turkish fare. + Turkish beer - Large ‘toilet’ sign is a bit of an eyesore

Athena Greek Taverna GREEK

1116 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8TD (Map 9: E6, 108) 0141 339 3895, athenataverna.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–10pm; Fri–Sat noon–10.30pm; Sat noon–10pm; Sun 5–10.30pm. Veg; Pre; BYOB (£4); HW £11.95; Kids (except Sat); Wh; T/A. £7.50 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

This restaurant is a cosy and welcoming place, with years of preparing Greek fare behind it – one of the owner’s grandfathers ran the original Athena Greek Taverna in the city’s Southide, and culinary skill has obviously been

passed on. The hummus makes for a great starter, but leave room for the mains as the portions are generous to the point of overdoing it. The lamb meatballs are satisfyingly filling if slightly bland, and rather unnecessarily come with both rice and potatoes, while the moussaka is served in an enormous slab. Vegetarian options are very appealing, ranging from fasolaki, a potato, green bean and shallot casserole, served with rice, to vegetable dolmades. Sample something sweet in the form of the delicious baklava. Despite good intentions, the service here needs to be bolstered, especially on nights when there are voucher offers as it is packed and the staff obviously overwhelmed. The venue is also guilty of packing in too many tables to a relatively small space – if it’s a romantic meal you are after this is probably not the right place. + Greek rice pudding – the epitome of comfort food - Wee spelling mistakes on the restaurant website

✱ Boteco do Brasil AMERICAS

62 Trongate, Merchant City, G1 5EP (Map 7: C2, 35) 07772 847311, botecodobrasil. com | Sun–Wed 11am–10pm; Thu–Sat 11am–11pm. [Bar open: Sun–Sat 11am–3am.] HW £14.50; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £5 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Inside this lively bohemian hangout the carnival atmosphere hits you. Brazilian flags and bold cultural murals set the scene while large screens ensure you don’t miss any footie action while supping a Brahma beer or caipirinha – Brazil’s national cocktail. Cocktail shakers double as percussion as the mixologists burst into impromptu samba dancing to thumping Latin beats. There’s a 60-seater diner to the back, a spacious bar for casual eats come dancing at the front and a handful of al fresco tables out front. Piping hot dishes with Mardi Gras colours heighten the senses with tasty tapas to kick things off – finger-licking chicken thighs, cute little pastry pockets stuffed with subtly spiced vegetables and succulent pan-fried tiger prawns smothered in roasted cherry tomatoes all satisfy. The star of the show is undoubtedly the slow-cooked sundrenched sweet coconut and coriander moqueca stew, packed with market-fresh fish, langoustines and seafood. Homemade passion fruit mousse is devilishly creamy yet cleanses with a zing. With a traditional barbecue every Sunday, home-made burgers, pizzas, live music events, DJs and 3am licenses, there’s a lot going on. + Unique carnival atmosphere with happy attentive staff - Tasteless farofa (cassava) needs a bit more spice

✱ Café Cossachok EUROPEAN

Trongate 103, 10 King Street, Merchant City, G1 5QP (Map 7: C2, 37) 0141 553 0733, cossachok.com | Tue–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 4–10pm. Closed Mon. [Bar open: Tue–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 4–11pm.] Veg; Pre; HW £15.90; Kids. £6.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Ad Lib (page 159): burgers galore – with a second branch for 2012

It may sound like a cliché, but there is quite literally nowhere like Café Cossachok, the ‘first and only authentic Russian Restaurant’ in Scotland. Despite having opened in 1998, on entering there is still the feeling of discovering a rare gastronomical gem. The platter of herring and potatoes makes for a healthy starter, somewhat cancelled out by the accompanying shot of ice-cold vodka, a rather marvellous dining accompaniment. A variety of vodka flavours are on offer including pepper, rose and bison grass.

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Glasgow For mains, there are plenty of hearty casseroles and goulash dishes to choose from, along with numerous stuffed wheat pancakes called blintzes. The Uralskie pelmeni – dumplings with potatoes, herbs, mushrooms and feta sauce – are a bit bland but hearty enough. Light and sumptuous, the almond cake served with crème anglaise is the stand out choice on the dessert menu. Drop in to the café on Sundays to enjoy live folk, jazz and world music. + A cake selection that’s an embarrassment of riches - Slightly slow service, even on quiet nights

Café Salma NORTH AFRICAN

523 Sauchiehall Street, West End, G3 7PQ (Map 9: H5, 87) 0141 221 7636, cafesalmaglasgow.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 2pm–midnight. Veg; Kids; T/A; D. £5.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Café Salma is unique in that there are two menus to choose from: Indian and Moroccan, along with a few pizza and burger options. From the Moroccan selection, the briwate - parcels of pastry with fillings of meat, vegetables, fish, cheese and herbs - make a lovely starter. As does the chicken bastilla, an intriguing mixture of sweet and savoury, made with caramelised onion, egg, almonds, cinnamon and a sprinkling of icing sugar. The tajins are the stand-out mains, priced between £10.95 and £12.95, so try the lamb tajin fassi with prunes, apricots, raisins and almonds, accompanied by warm bread rolls. Care and attention has been given to the décor too – in the basement the ceiling is draped in swathes of brightly coloured material, with comfortable seats and twinkling lanterns to add to the north-African feel. The restaurant does not serve alcohol, but the food is of such high quality you won’t miss it. Takeaway and home delivery is also available, so try what Café Salma has to offer if you are bored of pizza on a Friday night. + Halwa and Moroccan mint tea for dessert - Seemingly endless loop of Mariah Carey’s greatest hits on the stereo

The Calabash Restaurant AFRICAN

57 Union Street, City Centre, G1 3RB (Map 6: D4, 84) 0141 221 2711, thecalabashrestaurant.com | Mon– Sun 11am–1am. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–1am.] Veg; BYOB; HW £10; Kids; T/A; D. £9.50 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

What the Calabash Restaurant lacks in interior décor, it makes up for in brilliantly imaginative cooking. Located down a steep flight of stairs at an unremarkable Union Street address, the menu is packed with colourful dishes from all over Africa, including Kenya and Uganda. The starters are simple, such as chicken wings (which arrive without the promised side-salad) and vegetable samosas, but things start to get interesting with the mains. Katogo, at £8, is a Ugandan meat stew served with green bananas. There are good vegetarian choices too, including coconut rice and kidney bean stew. The wonderful chapatti-style breads are great for helping mop up leftover gravy, along with baskets of sweet-tasting, deep fried plantain and yams. If you are feeling adventurous, try ugali – maize flour cooked with water to form a dough-like consistency – not something widely available in Scotland. The atmosphere is very laid back, and the staff are friendly, offering advice on dishes, portion sizes and the many African beers on offer.

+ Ice-cold Tusker beer - Limited dessert menu

✱ Elià GREEK

24 George Square, City Centre, G2 1EG (Map 6: E4, 69) 0141 221 9988, eliagreekrestaurant.com | Mon–Sun noon–11.00pm. Pre; HW £12.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £6.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Before being known for being nearly bankrupt, the Greeks were known as great philosophers. It makes sense then that the Grecian brain behind Elia has a good philosophy behind his food. You wouldn’t realise it at first glance of the menu – humus, olives, feta, moussaka and all the usual Greek fare – but his approach to food is that the bulk of what we eat should come from around us. The soil and seas around have everything we need to survive – and thrive – in the harsh Scottish conditions that we live in. As such, on the menu you will see fresh Scottish fish, local meat and local root vegetables, all cooked with healthy Greek olive oil. Flavours are simple, but delicious. So there are a lot of grilled meats with those luscious roasted root vegetables and potatoes, or meats cooked in rich sauces, such as the slow-cooked beef burgers, baked in a rich tomato, cumin and garlic sauce. While the clichéd Greek décor isn’t bad – but isn’t great either – the fantastic view across George Square certainly makes up for it. + Tasty healthy hearty food for serious eaters - May be quiet on week nights

✱ The Greek Golden Kebab GREEK

34 Sinclair Drive, Southside, G42 9QE (Map 8: D6, 23) 0141 649 7581, greekgoldenkebab.com | Thu–Sun 5–11pm. Closed Mon–Wed. Veg; HW £12.75 (1l); Kids (under 5); T/A. £15 (dinner)

‘Other restaurants want money, we want to please the people,’ Mrs Kyriacou proudly declares from the tiny kitchen at the back of delightfully over-decorated restaurant. The family has been cheerily filling bellies here since 1972, little has changed and rightly so. Whitebait to start are large, crisp and plentiful while dolmades have a nutty flavour and none of the slime of tinned versions. Pasticchio is a belt loosening slab of pasta, minted lamb mince and cheese and a soft, rich, slow-roasted lamb kleftiko is testament to the kitchen staff’s insistence on selecting and butchering their own meat. There’s a substantial vegetarian menu and the ambitious can attempt the four-course Greek mezedes. Everything comes with a fresh salad and your choice of rice, fries or really wonderful roast potatoes. A carafe of the house wine does nicely to fully transport you from Battlefield to your Greek island of choice. + The warmest of Greek welcomes - 40 years of lumps and bumps in the velvet booths

Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant MONGOLIAN

26 Candleriggs, Merchant City, G1 1LD (Map 7: C2, 29) 0141 552 5646, khublaikhan.co.uk | Mon–Thu 5–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–11.30pm; Sun 5–11pm. Veg; Pre/Post; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £8.95 (set lunch) / £20.95 (set dinner)

Kublai Khan takes culinary inspiration from the way 13th century Mongolian warriors said to have cooked their food over a campfire, on upturned. Diners can choose their starters – which range from vegetable wontons served with a sweet and sour dipping sauce, to yak ribs in barbecue sauce, which are

slightly too vinegary but certainly an interesting flavour – before moving onto the Mongolian Feast. There are pros and cons of how this main course is made – you have to go up to the cooking area, and load a small bowl with meat (try the camel or springbok if you are feeling adventurous) and vegetables, before adding spices and oils to taste. You then leave your ingredients to cook with the grill chefs. The combinations can sometimes be a bit hit and miss, either too bland or spicy, but you can keep going back until you find the right flavours. Wash it all down with a cup of traditional Mongolian tea, described as being both milky and salty, and ‘not for the faint hearted’. + You get the chance to eat unusual meat - Unusual meat can be a bit chewy

✱ HITLIST ROUND THE WORLD

The Khyber MIDDLE EAST

221 St Andrew’s Road, Southside, G41 1PD (Map 8: D1, off) 0141 429 5959 | Mon– Sun 2.30–11pm. BYOB (no charge); Kids; Wh; T/A. £15 (dinner)

Though the lightly spiced, smooth, buttery dhal is delicious, there’s no denying you come to the Khyber to eat meat. Welcome, then, is the special kebab starter with the chance to sample each of the meats on offer. Marinated lamb mince sheek kebab is full of fresh spices, chicken tikka is moist and tangy, but the winner is the succulent boti lamb kebab; tender chunks of lamb marinated in spices and nicely charred from oven roasting, all served with a fresh, crunchy salad and cooling mint sauce. Some less well known Afghani dishes are on offer for main course. Kabli pilau is a wonderfully sweet and aromatic rice dish, laden with

✱ Boteco Do Brasil Soak up the sun-drenched beach party atmosphere with incredible cocktails, delicious tapas and authentic Brazilian cuisine. ✱ Café Cossachok Enjoy a taste of the former USSR, washed down with an ice-cold vodka. ✱ Elià This restaurant serves up huge, hearty portions of local ingredients mixed with lots of olive oil and Greek flavours. ✱ The Greek Golden Kebab Delicious traditional Greek cooking, and you’d be hard pushed to find a friendlier atmosphere than at this little timewarp of a restaurant.

FEEL LIKE DINING OUT TONIGHT? >> CHOOSE A RESTAURANT >> BOOK YOUR TABLE >> BRING YOUR LIST CARD >> GET 2 FOR 1 ON EVERY COURSE YOU ORDER The LIST Card allows you to eat out for half the price at around 100 leading restaurants across Glasgow and Edinburgh. So now you can dine out more often and still keep your wallet happy

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Glasgow raisins, carrot and chunks of lamb. ‘Dum pukht’ style, meaning slow oven, lamb with vegetables slips wonderfully off the bone and a gigantic soft naan bread with crispy bubbles proves the perfect tool to mop up the dark, sweet and spicy gravy. Subdued by all that meat, a cup of sweet Afghani kehwa green tea perks you up wonderfully at the end of the meal. + Melt in the mouth lamb, lamb, lamb - White walls and cold blue lighting

Konaki Greek Taverna GREEK

920 Sauchiehall Street, West End, G3 7TF (Map 9: F5, 104) 0141 342 4010, konakitaverna.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon– 3pm, 5pm–10pm; Sun 5–10pm. Veg; Pre; HW £9.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £6.85 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The menu at Konaki, located on Sauchiehall Street, is an embarrassment of Greek riches, all prepared with care and attention. While it may sound a bit much for a starter, the skordalia – mashed potato with garlic and olive oil – is delicious in its simplicity. The spinach and goat’s cheese wrapped in filo pastry is equally good, and not too heavy. For mains, the stifado – beef stew with red wine and onions – is simply wonderful, with the meat cooked to perfection and just enough kick from the wine. If you can’t decide what to have, try the £16.95 deal for a selection of starters and mains with a choice of sweet and hot drink. Desserts are a slight disappointment, and don’t stray far from the usual suspects of baklava and ice-cream, (go for the baklava, dripping in honey, every time) but this is a minor flaw. Excellent service makes dining here an all-round great experience. + Fresh ingredients, carefully cooked - Wine list could be more extensive

Persia AMERICAS

665 Great Western Road, West End, G12 8RE (Map 9: E1, 53) 0141 237 4471, persiaglasgow.com | Sun–Thu noon– 10.30pm, Fri/Sat noon–midnight. HW £14; Kids; Wh; T/A; D. £8.95 (set

lunch) / £15 (dinner)

A wonderful wave of exotic scents hit you as you enter Persia, and the menu certainly offers a unique taste of the Orient. Start with the baba ghannouj, perfect in its consistency with just the right amount of garlic to give it a kick, or sample the equally delicious ‘kash k-o bademjan’ – mixed aubergine, mint and sautéed onions with yoghurt and fried onion. The choice of mains is impressively varied, ranging from grills to stews and seafood cooked with a Persian twist, including pomegranate shrimps. The ‘khoresht-e-bamieh’ stew, made with diced lamb in tomato sauce and okra served with saffron rice is nice but slightly bland. To finish the baghlava is, despite being drenched in honey, a bit dry. However, the Persian ice-cream made with saffron, rosewater and pistachio is a real eye-opener, and something your taste buds will either love or detest. This is perhaps not the best venue for a romantic meal as the windows reaching from floor to ceiling leave you feeling very on display to those walking by on Great Western Road, but the ambience is nevertheless warm and welcoming. + Enormous nan bread with the starters - Long wait for the dessert menu

Tropeiro AMERICAS

363 Argyle Street, City Centre, G2 8LT (Map 6: B4, 92) 0141 222 2102, tropeiro. co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–3pm, 5.30–10pm; Sat noon–10.30pm; Sun 11am–10.00pm. HW £14.75; Kids; Wh. £9.95 (Sundays: £14.95) (set lunch) / £19.95 (set dinner)

To Brazilians, barbecues are a serious business. Not content with a limp sausage cooked on a flimsy foil dish, in Brazil huge haunches of meat are roasted over open flames, then carved directly onto your plate. If you enjoy the meat sweats, this is for you. The all-you-caneat feast starts once diners flip a card from red to green – green for go. A chef regularly circulates the restaurant to carve steaming-hot cuts of meat directly from the barbecue. Cuts include the picanha (a Brazilian cut of sirloin steak), piri piri

chicken thighs, garlic beef, pork ribs or Cumberland sausage. A salad bar allows diners to fill up on their five a day, while potatoes, rice and traditional feijoada – a turtle bean stew with pork – are also on offer. The unique take on dining and the delicious smell of barbecued meat snaking around the open, red-bricked room, mean that diners can dine the way Brazilians do – taking their time and going green for as long as they can handle. + Feisty caipirinhas - Some cuts are tough going

Viva Brazil AMERICAS

87–91 Bothwell Street, City Centre, G2 7AA (Map 6: B4, 91) 0141 204 0240, vivabrazilrestaurants.com | Mon–Sun 11.30am–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–midnight.] HW £15.95; Kids; Wh. £13.95 (set lunch) / £23.95 (dinner)

This Brazilian-style steakhouse makes the slightly threatening claim: ‘We won’t stop serving you meats until you tell us to!’. This is no exaggeration. ‘Passadors’ or meat carvers, flit from table to table, serving up sausages and cuts of pork, beef, lamb and chicken, a coloured disc on your table indicating whether you want more. It’s pretty simple – red means stop, green means go – so remember to use it or find the willpower to refuse another helping. The pork marinated in wine and spices and coated in parmesan is particularly good. The ‘full rodizio’, priced at £13.95 for lunch or £23.95 at dinner, entitles you to the carvery selection and unlimited servings of salad, side dishes including fried banana , plus fish and meat stews. Owing to the speed at which you are served, the restaurant is a bit lacking in atmosphere, and is somewhere to enjoy a quick bite rather than linger for a more relaxed meal. However, it is certainly a very different way of dining, so take the time to order a caipirinha cocktail, and enjoy the experience. + Beef rib stew with cassava - Limited dessert menu

SCOTTISH There’s no real model of what a Scottish restaurant should be – unlike, say, a curryhouse or a pizzeria – leaving chefs and entrepreneurs free to invent their own. Here you could find yourself eating stovies in a sea of tartan soft furnishings, or hand-dived West Coast scallops among bright Mediterranean colours. Prices vary just as wildly, from pub-lunch level to what you might expect in a Michelin-starred establishment. At their best, these places are defined by a devotion to the best seasonal produce the country can offer and proud chefs who cook the stuff not because it’s Scottish, but because it’s great. Reviewers: Beth Allan, Kirsty Bush, Martin Cross

Arisaig

1 Merchant Square, Merchant City, G1 1NY (Map 7: C2, 26) 0141 553 1010, arisaigrestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Wed noon–2.30pm, 5–10pm; Thu–Sun noon– 10pm. Pre; HW £16.95 (cheapest bottle); Kids; Wh. £9.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

This smart establishment serves Scottish flavours and produce in an upmarket but unfussy environment. Perched on the edge of the Merchant City cobbled square, there is plenty of ‘people watching’ to keep you entertained. Seafood broth as a starter portion is a generous bowl of salmon, mussels, prawns and scallops with a rich and subtly aromatic tomato sauce. Main course of venison steak is a tasty cut of meat served with fondant potato, red cabbage and a vibrant red berry and gin sauce – perhaps just a little on the tart side. Seafood is a speciality, offering an impressive platter as well as more complex options such as a buttery haddock, pea and pearl barley risotto. Desserts are well-handled classics, sticky toffee pudding is enlivened with nutty flavours and comes with an indulgent jug of warm, sweet caramel sauce. The upstairs level has recently been launched as a venue for pop-up restaurants, the first being a champagne bar serving afternoon teas with further ventures in the pipeline. + Decent local produce in a lively setting - Not overly distinctive dishes

Art Lover’s Café

House for an Art Lover, Bellahouston Park, 10 Dumbreck Road, Southside, G41 5BW See Arts Venues

✱ Bistro at One

Devonshire Gardens

1 Devonshire Gardens, West End, G12 0UX (Map 9: A1, off) 0141 339 2001, hotelduvin.com | Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 6–10pm; Fri noon–2.30pm, 6–10pm; Sat 6–10pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 6–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 10am–11pm.] HW £19.50; Kids; Wh. £30 (lunch) / £30 (dinner)

The Calabash Restaurant (page 161): bringing authentic flavours of sub-Saharan Africa to the City Centre

It may have endured several makeovers, reinventions and name changes, but the restaurant of luxury hotel One Devonshire Gardens was always an elegant and memorable place to eat even when the kitchen wasn’t at its peak. Now with Darin Campbell returning as head chef (he previously worked here under Andrew Fairlie before winning his own Michelin star at Ballachulish house), it’s serving some of the best food in Glasgow again. ‘Bistro’ is a misnomer (stemming from parent group Hotel du Vin’s branding),

162 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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In association with

Glasgow as this is anything but the modest little joint the word implies. Instead, it’s a dressed-up, special-occasion experience involving serious food and fine wine. Foie gras meets mango and gingerbread in an explosion of flavour; pheasant, black truffle and smoked bacon huddle inside choux farci; earthy seasonal tastes such as beetroot or ceps support impeccably sourced and prepared lamb, game and beef. Desserts are exquisite creations involving multiple flavours, textures and architectural flourishes. Dining in Glasgow doesn’t get much smarter or more delicious than this, but be prepared for a hefty bill – or ask to see the decent value market menu. + Sumptous food - The formality - you have to be in the mood

Bo’Vine Meats and Wines

385 Byres Road, West End, G12 8AU (Map 9: D1, 49) 0141 341 6540, bovinerestaurant.com | Mon–Thu 5–10pm; Fri/Sat 5–10.30pm; Sun 5–9.30pm. Pre; HW £18; Kids; Wh. £24 (dinner)

As the name would suggest (Bovine is derived from the Latin for ox) this restaurant, part of the Hilton Grosvenor, is all about the meat. This ranges from Perthshire venison, Ayrshire pork or grass-fed Aberdeen Angus steak, the latter charred on outside, blushing in the middle accompanied by a delicious whipped garlic butter. Elsewhere there’s nothing unusual to report – fresh scallops are fat and sweet though accompanying pork is fatty and lacks the crunch of a good pork belly. Luckily some pickled walnuts are inspired and help lift the dish with extra bite. Desserts are mostly disappointing although the milk chocolate ice-cream that accompanies the chocolate and chestnut brownie is creamy and full of flavour. Owing to its West End location, most nights are fairly busy and this gives an energetic atmosphere. Expect dim lighting, beech wood flooring and opulent banquettes for a sophisticated feel. + Good location on Byres Road - Deserts need work

The Bothy

11 Ruthven Lane, West End, G12 9BG (Map 9: D1, 40) 0141 334 4040, bothyrestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon– 10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–10pm.] LC; Pre; HW £14.95; Kids; Wh. £10.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

The Bothy enjoys an unusual location hidden amongst the quirky businesses of Ruthven Lane off Byres Road. That’s about the extent of any Bohemian pretensions though – once inside, it’s a slick, efficient member of the G1 Group and one of five Bothies around Scotland. For what’s effectively a chain restaurant, it’s a cosy, welcoming place, and a hearty menu of (mostly) Scottish comfort food looks appetising. Starters such as scallops with black pudding, moules marinières and smoked salmon and halibut are augmented by experimental specials (haggis pakora, anyone?), while main courses are on solid ground with lamb, duck, steaks and a couple of vegetarian options. The Bothy burger – which combines haggis with minced steak on ciabatta – is a successful innovation; thick, juicy and with a subtle peppery kick. A la carte isn’t cheap for an informal restaurant such as this, but the early menu that runs from noon till 6pm every day is reasonable value. + Excellent service - Charging for bread seems a little meanspirited

The Brasserie at Òran Mór

731–735 Great Western Road, West End, G12 8QX (Map 9: E1, 50) 0141 357 6226,

oran-mor.co.uk | Mon–Wed noon–9pm; Thu–Sat noon–10pm; Sun noon–6pm. [Bar open: Fri/Sat noon–3am.] Pre; HW £16.50; Kids; Wh. £22 (dinner)

Òran Mór – a multi-space arts and social venue formed from a grand old church at the top of Byres Road – is something of a hub in the cultural life of Glasgow’s West End. Hidden below the busy main bar, though, the Brasserie feels like something of an afterthought. Apparently filling up before gigs, it rarely draws crowds otherwise. This is a shame, as the kitchen turns out excellent food, service is smart and professional, and both menu and wine list offer decent value for money. Rump of lamb is served pink with a hearty black pudding mash, while seared duck breast comes with spiced puy lentils satisfying enough to constitute a dish on their own. For starters there’s a sea bass, prawn and fennel dish resembling a very good miniature main course, and puds include well-made renditions of favourites such as brulée and cheesecake. An Early Doors menu has two courses for £13; a bargain for food of this quality. + Satisfying food at good value prices - Can be awfully quiet when there’s not much happening upstairs

The Brasserie at the Chip

12 Ashton Lane, West End, G12 8SJ See Bistros & Brasseries

The Cabin

996–998 Dumbarton Road, West End, G14 9UJ (Map 9: A3, off) 0141 569 1036, cabinglasgow.com | Tue–Fri noon–3pm, 5–9pm; Sat/Sun noon–9pm. Closed Mon. [Bar open: Fri/Sat until 1am.] Pre; BYOB (£5); HW £14.50; T/A; D. £11 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Situated a little walk past the main dining strip on Dumbarton Road, the striking cream and red art deco-style exterior of this charming little restaurant welcomes you into the nautical world inside. Host Dennis welcomes you to the light, bright space with ship memorabilia decorating the walls. The short, well considered menu of Scottish produce – with some Irish influence – is complimented by fish specials to make use of the catch of the day. A well-balanced dish of duck breast is soft and pink with crisp fat, served on a potato rosti with fresh orange and a rich wine reduction. Hearty venison stew is served with colcannon mash – with kale and spring onion which is creamy and vibrant. Lemon cheesecake, with a delightfully creamy fresh rind-infused topping on a buttery base tastes every bit home-made. Friday and Saturday nights get fully booked for dinner ahead of the renowned in-house entertainment of a sing-along that lasts into the early hours. + Top cooking and lots of character - Starters not as good as mains and puds

Café Gandolfi

64 Albion Street, Merchant City, G1 1NY See Bistros & Brasseries

Café Source

1 St Andrew’s Square, Merchant City, G1 5PP (Map 7: C3, 42) 0141 548 6020, cafesource.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–3pm, 5–9pm; Fri/Sat noon–3pm, 5–10pm; Sun 12.30–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu 11am–11pm; Fri/Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 12.30–11pm.] Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £12 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

This large space beneath the St Andrew’s In The Square church has been sensitively designed to accommodate quiet meals in the leather booths while catering comfortably for families and large parties. Black and white photographs of musicians are a nod to the reappropriation of the church upstairs as a live music venue and on show nights there’s a

buzzing atmosphere in the restaurant. The flexibility of the space is reflected in the menus with a set two or three-course pre-theatre, à la carte plus a selection of ‘bar’ style dishes with old favourites such as scotch pie and stovies, burgers, salads and sandwiches if you’re after something quick. Commitment to Scottish sourcing is evident in the name-checked produce. Haggis fritters to start, made vegetarian on request, are moist and nutty with a light batter, served with potato and herb salad and a bright purple beetroot and orange chutney. Slow-roasted belly of pork is sweet and tender, the galantine it’s served with a tasty swirl of apple and rich black pudding. Orkney fudge cheesecake is a sweet end to the meal, served with a vibrant berry compote. + Good Scottish cooking in an impressive building - Can feel a bit vacuous at quieter times

Café Source Too

Hillhead Sports Club, 32 Hughenden Road, West End, G12 9XP (Map 9: A1, off) 0141 357 6437, cafesourcetoo.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–3pm, 5–9pm, Fri–Sat noon–3pm, 5–10pm, Sunday noon–9pm. Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £12 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

✱ HITLIST SCOTTISH ✱ Bistro at One Devonshire Gardens Back on form with a new chef, it could be on its way back to Michelin-star status. Pricey, but memorable. ✱ Ian Brown Food and Drink Super-friendly neighbourhood restaurant offering clever food at low prices, and well worth the trek to Giffnock.

You might expect isotonic drinks and granola bars from the café at Hillhead Sports Club, but with the arrival of Café Source to run the kitchen there’s a rather more indulgent and ambitious offering to tempt you in. As at the original St Andrews in the Square location, the Café Source focus is on fresh, local produce to devise their ‘modern Scottish’ menu. It includes hearty traditional stuff like stovies, scotch pie, rumbledethumps (mashed tatties with cabbage and onion) and haggis in various incarnations, but the theme is applied loosely enough to allow caesar salad, moules marinière, a vegetarian risotto and a good choice of sandwiches and burgers. There’s a decent selection of ales and wines, including draft beer by Glasgow’s own boutique brewery, WEST. À la carte prices are on a par with other West End restaurants and perhaps a little high for what remains a sports club bar, but the food is well prepared and special deals – such as two courses and a glass of wine for £12 on the lunch and pre-theatre menu – represent good value. + Hearty Scottish favourites on the menu - It’s inevitably like dining at the gym

port). Cail Bruich is very much a family business, which may explain why the service is a rare and pleasant combination of discreet professionalism and friendly banter. + Rare and interesting ingredients - Pricey when you stray from the (good value) market menu

Cail Bruich

City Merchant

The menu at Cail Bruich reads like a rather upmarket shopping list. Ox, duck and halibut star in mains, while starters feature chestnut and scallop, and a pudding is simply chocolate. Brevity on the page reflects a serious commitment to fine materials borne out on the plate, with meat, fish and veg of impeccable quality allowed to shine. Chris Charalambous’ cooking is certainly not simplistic – Peterhead halibut comes with a curried mussel velouté, for example, and Gressingham duck breast with a carrot purée and herb gnocchi – but the focus is on the pure, authentic flavours of seasonal, mostly Scottish ingredients. The smart interior – dark wood, rich colours and heavy curtains – has a clubby feel that’s in keeping with the meaty menu and the kind of wine list that could encourage long and potentially ruinous indulgence (although there’s an admirable 16 wines by the glass, plus dessert wine and

At 24 years old, the City Merchant is something of a survivor in this fashionable corner of town, where bars and restaurants come and go with alarming speed. It does well from the tourist trade, offering a Scottish theme and terrific local produce – particularly fish – without overdoing the tartanry to the point of putting off the locals. The interior is showing its age these days, but when it’s full there’s a pleasant buzz. Familiar dishes such as Cullen skink, haggis, Stornoway black pudding and cranachan are all here, as are excellent Highland beef, lamb and game. But seafood steals the show with sparkling fresh oysters, lobster, crab and langoustines amongst the best reasons for a visit. It can be unaccountably dear, though – most of the market specials on the blackboard come in at £24, which by Glasgow standards is steep, even for more expensive fish such as halibut or sole. + Great fresh seafood - Pricey market specials

725 Great Western Road, West End, G12 8QX (Map 9: E1, 51) 0141 334 6265, cailbruich.co.uk | Tue–Thu noon–2.15pm, 5.30–9pm; Fri–Sat noon–2.15pm, 5.30–9.30pm, Sun 12.30–3pm, 5.30–8pm. Closed Mon. Pre; HW £16.95; Kids. £14.95 (set lunch) / £28 (dinner)

✱ The Sisters Restaurants Terrific food and excellent value for money. Practically the same menu at both locations Jordanhill is casual and cosy, Kelvingrove a little more dressed-up. ✱ Stravaigin The best local and seasonal produce combined with exciting global flavours. ✱ Ubiquitous Chip A Glasgow institution serving great food in a beautiful courtyard setting. ✱ Wee Lochan Busy, friendly neighbourhood restaurant cum café-bar serving sophisticated food.

97–99 Candleriggs, Merchant City, G1 1NP (Map 7: C2, 15) 0141 553 1577, citymerchant.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon– 10.30pm; Sun 4.30pm–9pm. Pre; HW £15.75; Kids; Wh. £12.50 (set lunch) / £27 (dinner)

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Glasgow Fanny Trollopes

1066 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8LY See Bistros & Brasseries

The Grill Room at the Square

29 Royal Exchange Square, City Centre, G1 3AJ (Map 6: D4, 74) 0141 225 5615, grillroomglasgow.com | Mon–Sun 8am–10.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–3am; Sun 12.30pm–3am.] Pre; HW £18.50; Kids; Wh. £15.95 (set lunch) / £35 (dinner)

Part of private members club ‘29’, this restaurant is certainly a place to see and be seen. Slick black interior dotted with white linen table cloths, chandeliers and sparkling glassware give a city chic look to the long rectangular space. If you sit in one of the window tables you can watch the passers-by through the twinkling fairy lights over Royal Exchange Square in the evening. Suited waiters, mostly young and energetic, quickly bring over a warm mini-loaf flavoured with sundried tomatoes, parmesan and olives. The menu strongly emphasises seafood and grilled meats – hot-smoked salmon makes a tasty starter, rested on top of a small corn pancake with a sharp shallot and crème fresh dressing. As would be expected, steaks are the show stopper – dipped in glaze to seal the meat then cooked on a charcoal grill adding barbecue char to the outside while the inside is moist and blushing pink. A slight regret that the accompanying chunky chips lack the crisp texture you would expect. + Excellent steaks in a glizty setting - Little for the non-meat eaters

✱ Ian Brown Food and Drink

55 Eastwoodmains Road, Southside, G46 6PW (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 638 8422, ianbrownrestaurant.co.uk | Tue–Sat noon–2pm, 5.30–9.30pm, Sun noon– 9.30pm. Closed Mon. HW £13.50; Kids; Wh. £11 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Down in distant (for most of us) Giffnock, husband-and-wife team Ian and Sheila Brown run a restaurant that merits a journey from anywhere in Glasgow, and most points beyond. Formerly head chef at the Ubiquitous Chip, Ian produces food that’s interesting and creative without straying into the outlandish. Meltingly succulent braised pig’s cheek, plump pink pigeon breasts, nuttily-crusted baked cod and superlative triple-cooked chips are staples on a seasonal, moderately-priced à la carte, while a second, weekly changing menu might carry a chicken breast stuffed with skirlie or pork belly with blackpudding stovies. The extraordinarily good value (£11 for two courses) weekly menu is available at all times except Friday and Saturday dinner, and it’s clearly a big draw for the locals who pack the 40 covers out most nights, giving the place a friendly, neighbourly atmosphere. Service from people who clearly really enjoy the job is an added pleasure, and the wine list offers a decent choice at fair prices. Giffnock is a fortunate neighbourhood indeed to have this place to call its own. + Remarkable value for superlative cooking - You may need sat-nav to get here

section (it defines itself as such on the signage and on its website) Ingram Wynd is a good bet for traditional dishes such as skirlie, stovies or cranachan – which can be surprisingly hard to track down in Glasgow. Elsewhere on the menu the famous ingredients of Scotland’s larder – seafood, salmon, venison and beef – are well represented and prepared in a more standard, international style. West coast mussels, for example, come with either tomato, chilli and coriander, or white wine, cream and garlic. The Victorian styling concept here dates back only to 2009 and is reminiscent of an airport bar and grill – an effect that’s reinforced by MOR piped music – but the food is reasonable, service is extremely friendly and value for money isn’t bad. It certainly seems to work, as the place is regularly full, particularly for a fairly priced pre-theatre. + Decent value lunch and pre-theatre - Ronan Keating on the stereo

Maggie May’s

60 Trongate, Merchant City, G1 5EP (Map 7: C2, 34) 0141 548 1350, maggiemays. info | Mon–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am– 9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 11am–3am.] HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £6.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

If you believe the deep-fried Mars bar is an urban myth, proof of its existence can be found at Maggie May’s, an indie/ folky music venue and pub with a surprisingly civilised restaurant tucked away at the back of the bar. The crisply battered confectionery is a pleasant if artery-clogging treat, particularly as it’s served with quality ice-cream. It’s also an example of what Maggie’s kitchen can do pretty well – simple food like fishcakes, chicken breast or fillet of sea bass, whether grilled, seared or fried, are good, but more involved stuff, like a venison casserole or a cod and chickpea stew, are less successful. Still, you’re on safe ground with most of the menu, which focuses on burgers, pasta and salads. Service is friendly and efficient, making Maggie’s a decent choice to eat in a hurry

– say before a gig, or a show at The Tron theatre just over the street. Prices are reasonable, too. + Friendly service and low prices - Inconsistent cooking

No. Sixteen

16 Byres Road, West End, G11 5JY (Map 9: C3, 18) 0141 339 2544, number16.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5.30–9.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10pm; Sun 1–3pm, 5.30–9pm. Pre; HW £14.90; Kids. £10.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

In this small but perfectly formed restaurant at the bottom of Byres Road, attention to detail is a speciality. Fresh bread comes with a rosemary and parmesan infused dipping oil, simple but stunning. The diminutive size of the kitchen dictates that front of house is run impeccably well, with swift but always thoughtful service. Plenty of room is made for invention in the cooking with even the excellent value pre- theatre menu offering novel takes on Scottish/Fusion dishes. Thyme gnocchi with blue cheese is rich; tiny chunks of walnut adding a wonderful texture and the tangy cheese offset nicely with a red wine reduction. Braised pork belly is sweet and salty with a wonderful little surprise of bright yellow home made piccalilli. Infusion proves itself again in a dessert of lavender pannacotta; subtle and not too sweet, served with poached figs. The wine list is impressive for such a small setup and several house wines come in a friendly 50cl ceramic pot, specially commissioned from a Dumfriesshire pottery. It’s clear No 16 knows what it is doing. + Inventive cooking - Slight lack of crumble in the crumble

The Pelican Café

1377 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8AF See Bistros & Brasseries

Rab Ha’s

83 Hutcheson Street, Merchant City, G1 1SH (Map 7: B1, 8) 0141 572 0400, rabhas. com | Thu–Sat 5–10pm. [Bar open:

Rab Ha’s is a well-loved and fairly busy Merchant City pub (and small hotel), and over the past 20 years or so its basement restaurant has meandered up and down market, with varying critical and commercial success. Currently it feels like an afterthought – the menu is exactly the same as that of the bar above, and the restaurant is only open three evenings a week, so it’s effectively an additional room rather than a destination in its own right. This seems a shame – with perfectly decent food and good-value prices in an excellent location, the management could surely make a little more of the place. The kitchen provides dependable, simple pleasures like a fine piece of haddock with chips and mushy peas, together with honest Scots dishes like mince and tatties, Cullen skink, and chicken Balmoral (a breast of chicken stuffed with haggis). The tongue-in-cheek décor mixing tartan and antlers with Oor Wullie is quite fun, but it’s looking a bit tired these days. + Hearty food at decent prices - A bit half-hearted (the bar’s a better bet)

Restaurant at Blythswood Square

11 Blythswood Square, City Centre, G2 4AD (Map 6: C3, 38) 0141 248 8888, blythswoodsquare.com | Mon–Fri 7–10am, noon–2.30pm, 6–10pm; Sat/Sun 7–10am, noon–3pm, 6–10pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sat noon–1am; Sun 12.30pm–1am.] HW £20; Kids; Wh. £16.50 (set lunch) / £33 (dinner)

In Glasgow’s five-star Blythswood Square hotel, black and red lampshades dominate the cocktail lounge and restaurant – a light-hearted reference to the district’s former ‘red light’ reputation. On the menu, whole seabass, full spatchcock chicken and a variety of steaks are among the selection of French-style cooking of good quality Scottish ingredients. Seared foie gras is buttery and soft, offset by robust black pudding and a sweet prune taste that pulls the dish together. The pedigree of the T-bone steak, reared on one of the Buccleuch Estates, is evident from the almost gamey flavour of the beef – and it’s balanced well with a sweet and sharp red wine jus. The food is good but it may be the cocktails that make the night memorable. Or, possibly, difficult to recall. + Steaks and cocktails are superb - Service can be erratic

Roastit Bubbly Jocks

450 Dumbarton Road, West End, G11 6SE (Map 9: A3, off) 0141 339 3355, roastitbubblyjocks.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5–9.30pm; Fri/Sat noon– 2.30pm, 5–10pm; Sun noon–9.30pm. Pre; BYOB (£5, £10 fizz; no beer); HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £14 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Ingram Wynd

56–58 Ingram Street, Merchant City, G1 1EX (Map 7: C1, 19) 0141 553 2470, ingramwynd.co.uk | Mon/Tue noon–3pm, 5–10pm; Wed/Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–10pm; Sun noon–9.30pm. [Bar open: Thu–Sat, 6pm–11pm.] Pre; HW £15.95; Kids; Wh. £10.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

One of the more self-consciously ‘Scottish’ of the restaurants in this

Mon–Sat noon–midnight; Sun 12.30pm– midnight.] Pre; HW £15.95; Kids. £15 (dinner)

Stravaigin (page 167): impressive global flavours and creative dishes

The open glass frontage of this well established Partick eatery offers a candlelit window into its cosy, relaxed atmosphere. Inside locals, couples and large family parties are served hearty portions of Scottish cuisine. The Highland game terrine is lighter than you’d imagine with citrus flavours and freshly made apple chutney. Haunch of Argyll venison shows off a policy to source quality Scottish produce – perfectly pink, tender slices of meat are served with braised red cabbage and a rich game and wine jus. The market menu has set prices for each course offering great value without committing to a huge meal, another reason why locals and diners from further afield keep coming back. Duo of fish is nicely cooked, particularly the pert salmon fillet though the seafood sauce overpowers a little. Desserts such as pear

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The Very Essence of Burgundy

“The genius behind Louis Jadot is winemaker Jacques Lardière. The range is extensive and the quality impressive” decanter

To ﬁnd out more about Louis Jadot in Scotland contact 01344 871800 or info@hatch.co.uk www.louisjadot.co.uk

Celebrating 50 Years of Exceptional Winemaking

To ﬁnd out more about Villa Maria in Scotland contact 01344 871800 or info@hatch.co.uk www.villamariaestate.co.uk

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Open until 1am every Friday and Saturday Copious Cocktails, Weekend Beats and a Cool Contemporary West End Vibe Free Private Area Hire 383 Byres Road 0141 341 6516

Great Steaks Great Wines Great Service Pre-Theatre Menu Available Book Online at www.bovinerestaurant.co.uk 385 Byres Road 0141 341 6540

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SCOTTISH

In association with

Glasgow and plum crumble are sweet, warming and nostalgic. Coffee is served with some wonderful homemade tablet and if you wish another square you can ask for one. + Hearty Scottish flavours in a relaxed setting - Diners packed in on busy nights

The Shandon Belles

652 Argyle Street, City Centre, G3 8UF See Bistros & Brasseries

✱ The Sisters Jordanhill

1a Ashwood Gardens, 512 Crow Road, West End, G13 1NU (Map 9: A1, off) 0141 434 1179, thesisters.co.uk | Tue–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5.30–8.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–2.30pm, 5–9.15pm; Sun noon–7pm. Closed Mon. LC; Pre; HW £15.95; Kids; T/A. £14.95 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

The more bohemian of the two Sisters restaurants is fitted out in rich green and tartan with twinkling lights. The menu is almost identical to its arguably more stylish branch in Kelvingrove, though the atmosphere feels more personal and homey at this outfit. Warm savoury muffins are served while you peruse the Celtic-inspired menu using the best of Scottish produce. A crisp filo pastry case overflowing with mild Stornoway black pudding has a baked apple sitting on top, cutting the richness of the pudding with precision. Mains provide a variety of Scottish fish, game and meats – the plump chicken breasts stuffed with gutsy Dingwall haggis is sinfully delicious on top of fluffy mash and a pool of indulgent whisky-mustard cream. Leave room for the infamous puff-candy meringue, served with honeycomb ice-cream and hot butterscotch sauce – a pudding lover’s heaven. + Fantastic produce cooked with Celtic passion - A little out the way for some

✱ The Sisters Kelvingrove

36 Kelvingrove Street, West End, G3 7RZ (Map 9: F5, 103) 0141 564 1157, thesisters. co.uk | Tue–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5–9pm; Fri noon–2.30pm, 5–9.30pm; Sat noon– 9.30pm; Sun noon–8pm. Closed Mon. LC; Pre; HW £15.75; Kids. £10.50 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

There’s little or no difference between the two Sisters in terms of food, service or prices, but where Jordanhill has the atmosphere of a casual neighbourhood restaurant, Kelvingrove looks and feels a lot more dressed-up. Although the O’Donnells have been here for six years, the interior still shows the clean lines of modernist former tenants Air Organic, albeit softened and warmed by heavy drapes and smart, traditional napery. There’s a business-like professionalism to the service, too, which is wholly in keeping with the big-city feel of the place. Chef Jacqueline’s food focuses on delicious Scottish (and occasionally Irish) produce, and on the plate the dishes are rather more stylish and refined than descriptions on the menu might suggest – Old Kilpatrick 10-hour braised beef, for example, is a wonderfully tender cylinder of meat, artfully arranged on top of black pudding and mash and accompanied by an intense red wine jus. Ultra-fresh shellfish from Ullapool, organic fruit and veg from Arran and tooth-threateningly indulgent desserts from Jacqueline’s kitchen encourage repeat visits, particularly as prices are remarkably good value for cooking of this quality. + Great value lunch and pre-theatre - Not the most interesting wine list in town

✱ Stravaigin

28–30 Gibson Street, West End, G12 8NX (Map 9: F3, 66) 0141 334 2665, stravaigin.

com | Mon–Sun 11am–11pm;. [Bar open: Mon–Sun 9am–midnight.] Pre/Post; HW £14.95; Kids. £24 (lunch) / £26 (dinner)

As this place pops up in most Glasgow guides, many a nationality can be found rubbing shoulders with die-hard regulars enjoying interesting Scottish produce given an international twist. Stravaigin’s well-known branding is ‘think local, eat global’. The small downstairs dining room is cozy and dark with fairy lights adding subdued lighting. You can savour aromas wafting from the open kitchen while enjoying sourdough bread with the dip of the day – perhaps be chargrilled aubergine, or chickpea and lemon full of heady garlic and subtle spices. Among starters are Scottish mussels in sweet, spicy Thai broth and an award-winning haggis with ‘neeps and champit tatties’. From the braised Ramsay’s pork belly with corn polenta and pecan slaw to the caramelised red onion and Scottish Mull cheddar bread and butter pudding, everything is unusual and everything is excellent. Don’t miss the moist chocolate sticky toffee pudding – the accompanying brown bread ice cream adds balance to the sweetness while glossy caramel sauce coats the whole dish with sticky indulgence. + Delicious, unusual flavour combinations - Small dining room can get noisy

Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery 652 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8UF See Fish

✱ Ubiquitous Chip

12 Ashton Lane, West End (Map 9: D2, 32) 0141 334 5007, ubiquitouschip.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5pm–11pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 5pm–11pm. [Bar open: Mon– Sat 11am–1am; Sun 12.30pm–1am.] Pre; HW £18.65; Kids; Wh. £24.95 (set lunch) / £34.95 (set dinner)

Few can lay claim to being a Glasgow foodie without sampling the delights of the famous ‘Chip’. An unusual bread basket, containing cheese biscuits, brown bread and white savoury muffins arrives along with a little tasting nibble, perhaps sweetcorn chowder. This can be enjoyed while taking in the surroundings of the main dining area – an open plan courtyard, with lush greenery entwined around pillars, a fish pond, cobbled flooring and moving spotlights, all acreating a romantic and unusual setting. Focusing on local, seasonal produce has always been the ethos, and there is no sign of change. Starters include West Coast langoustines, Galloway Venison loin and Islay scallops – the latter dusted in vibrant green pistachio nuts, served with a delicious savoury apple tart and crisp meaty pork belly. For mains, halibut, pheasant and steak all make an appearance, though the guinea fowl trumps them all – moist breast stuffed with sultanas and brazil nuts with confit legs and a red wine reduction. Pudding is a must whether an accomplished hazelnut stuffed chocolate cake or rich zingy lime and Crowdie cheesecake. + Fine dining in special surroundings - When busy, you can feel rushed

right through from morning coffee time (10am for Sunday brunch) till tenish at night, the couple has quickly established the place as something of a clubhouse for the locals. The food is an elegant take on comfort food; stalwarts on a regularly changing menu include Stornoway black pudding, smoked haddock, steamed mussels and braised pork belly, while on Sunday a special roast menu is served right through the afternoon and early evening. Appealing vegetarian choices include soufflés and tarts, and desserts are largely old favourites such as sticky toffee pudding, or vanilla pannacotta. Dishes are accurately cooked and well presented, and while there’s nothing too remarkable here, flavours are wholesome and satisfying. Prices on Wee Lochan’s evening menu are reasonable, while lunch, pre-theatre and Sunday deals are significantly good value. + An atmosphere buzzing with happy folk - No real surprises on the menu

Windows Restaurant

Carlton George Hotel, 44 West George Street, City Centre, G2 1DH (Map 6: E3, 68) 0141 354 5070, carltonhotels.co.uk | Mon–Sun 5–9.45pm. Pre; BYOB (£5); HW £16.50; Kids; Wh. £21 (lunch) / £21 (dinner)

The kitchen – under award-winning young chef Michelle Dempsey – is doing a sterling job. There are few surprises on the menu, but dishes are beautifully executed, and attention to detail is excellent. Fondant potato – so often badly prepared elsewhere – is perfect here, working well alongside a good seasonal choice of celeriac purée in support of a simple duck breast. For starters, gently spiced potted highland beef is a satisfying mound of tender meat served with warm brioche. Puddings are proudly traditional – cherry baked Alaska, for example, is quite a retro treat. As this Guide goes to press, Windows Restaurant is about to close for several weeks of refurbishment work. This should see the tired décor transformed into something much more interesting, and hopefully the new interior will live up to a magnificent seventhfloor view over the spires and rooftops of Central Glasgow. + Great view - Planned refurb is a must

SPANISH Spanish cooking has widespread historical and cultural roots. It’s a cuisine about people. Highend dining it’s not. Most of it is down-to-earth, uncomplicated food, based on making the most of fresh local or regional sourced produce. Our love of the tapas ‘sharing’ experience goes hand in hand with hospitality, friendship and conversation. Glasgow, in this respect, has all the right ingredients to bring that welcome taste of Spanish sunshine to your table. From tapas bars around the city, you can expect to enjoy delicious authentically inspired dishes if you go that extra mile in search of hidden gems in local neighbourhoods. Reviewer: Carolyn McTaggart

Arta

The Old Cheesemarket, 62 Albion Street, Merchant City, G1 1PA (Map 7: C2, 45) 0141 552 2101, arta.co.uk | Thu–Sat 5–10pm. Closed Sun–Wed. [Bar open: Thu–Sat 5pm–1am (Bar); Fri–Sat 11pm– 3am (Club).] LC; Veg; Pre; HW £14.95; Kids. £17 (dinner)

In Glasgow’s trendy Merchant City the competition among restaurants to attract discerning diners is high. Artà stands out architecturally. Once the location of a medieval cheese market this listed building was developed Baroque style in 2000 into a renaissance Spanish townhouse. The hacienda courtyard bar accommodates the cocktail crowd and hosts weekly salsa classes. It looks the part – all soapstone, wrought iron and marble draped in opulent fabrics. A grand staircase takes you to a vaulted, cavernous restaurant ideal for large parties. Isolated at the back is a ‘special’ Romeo and Juliet table. With no sign of Cupid among the architectural cherubs and plastic vines, any romantic inclinations are quickly eroded. The food is loosely based around

✱ Wee Lochan

340 Crow Road, West End, G11 7HT (Map 9: A1, off) 0141 338 6606, an-lochan.com | Mon–Thu 11am–9pm; Fri/Sat 11am– 10pm; Sun 10am–7pm. Pre; HW £13; Kids; Wh. £10.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

A good local restaurant gives its neighbourhood exactly what it wants, and at Wee Lochan, Aisla and Rupert Staniforth are hitting the nail on the head for Broomhill. A restaurant-café-bar in a pretty much pub-free zone, with a casual, family-friendly vibe and service

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SPANISH

list.co.uk

Glasgow a Spanish tapas theme but lacks flair in delivery or authenticity, particularly in classics such as patatas bravas or local favourites such as seared scallops with black pudding. Live bands and DJs in the basement club rooms serve to liven up the evening if you stick around. + Michel Thomas Spanish lessons on audio in the restrooms raise a smile - Baffling menu and pricing structure

Barça Tapas and Cava Bar

Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre, G1 3JN (Map 6: D4, 77) 0141 248 6555, barcatapas.co.uk | Sun–Wed noon–10pm; Thu–Sat noon–11pm. [Bar open: Mon–Sun noon–11pm.] Veg; Pre; HW £16.95; Kids; Wh. £9.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Situated in upmarket Princes Square, Barça’s top floor terrace is a prime spot overlooking the courtyard and soak up the buzz. Inside this spacious urban style brasserie is a lively cava bar at one end with regular cocktail masterclasses and salsa dancing the focal point. The menu offers classic tapas with a modern twist along with paella options. Tender pork cheeks find perfect flavour synergy with red wine jus and quince, while the pan con tomate is a generous, lightly toasted baguette drenched with fresh tomatoes, tangy olive oil and garlic. Nice hints of cardamom and lime are evident in the crab dumplings but the delicate crab is sadly lost in the floury texture. Fresh mussels in a classic white wine and garlic sauce hit the mark, while the tortilla needs some tender loving care to lift its texture. If the over-sugared churros doughnuts with caramel and dense almond tart don’t quite cut it, there’s delicious home-made ice-cream to the rescue. + Sangria laden with fresh fruits and Licor 43 - Style over substance in some dishes

✱ HITLIST SPANISH ✱

Malaga Tapas Grab friends and family and a jug of Sangria for an authentic culinary tour of Andalusia in this casa of delicious food and fine hospitality.

Café Andaluz

• 2 Cresswell Lane, West End, G12 8AA (Map 9: D1, 44) 0141 339 1111, cafeandaluz.com | Mon–Sat noon–11pm; Sun 12.30–11pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat 12.30pm– midnight.] Veg; Pre; HW £14.95; Kids. £9.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner) • 12–15 St Vincent Place, City Centre, G1 2DW (Map 6: E4, 71) 0141 222 2255, cafeandaluz.com | Mon–Sat noon–11pm; Sun 12.30–11pm. [Bar open: Mon–Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat 12.30pm– midnight.] Veg; Pre; HW £14.95; Kids. £9.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Glasgow’s original of two Café Andaluz restaurants is notable for its unique West End location – nestled down rustic wooden steps below Cresswell Lane’s

quaint cobbles. Inside, it’s all Moorish blue, white terracotta tiles, stained-glass lanterns, colourful fabrics and ceramic pots contrasting with chunky dark wood. A relaxed, happy vibe fills both venues. The Spanish have a saying, ‘uvas con queso saben a beso’ – grapes with cheese taste of a kiss. Here, grilled creamy goat’s cheese is married instead with sweet, tangy Seville orange and chilli marmalade. Consistent fresh quality ingredients are evident too, with plenty of meat, poultry, seafood and vegetarian tapas and paella dishes – all authentically inspired and well-executed. A trio of succulent king scallops topped with crisp shavings of Serrano ham on basilcreamed leaks is perfect in looks and flavour. Patatas gratinadas offer a melting moment as you wonder how potatoes and cheese could taste so good. No skimping on desserts either – the raspberry pavlova is heavenly but a coffee with ‘chopito’ (a shot) of Spanish liqueur makes for a sweet diversion. + Fish and seafood zarzuela stew - Small tables for the many dishes

✱ Malaga Tapas

213–215 St Andrew’s Road, Southside, G41 1PD (Map 8: D1, off) 0141 429 4604, malagatapas.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon– 2.30pm, 5–10pm; Sun 5–10pm. Veg; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £5.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Heading up an ardent tour of Andalusian gastronomy are enthusiastic chefs and owners Guillermo and Cristobal. This modest Southside neighbourhood casa has a homely feel. The enticing menu of home-made seafood, fish, chicken, meat and vegetarian tapas; paella dishes and blackboard specials makes for some tricky decision-making. Inspired by southern Spain’s culinary heritage, tantalising aromas and flavours of fresh garlic, cumin, paprika and olive oil are in

La Bodega Tapas Bar

Dance with Attitude Studios, 1120 South Street, West End, G14 0AP (Map 9: A3, off) labodegaglasgow.com / dancewithattitude.net | Mon–Wed 4–10.45pm; Thu/Fri noon–11.30pm; Sat 10.30am–11.30pm; Sun noon–11.30pm. [Bar open: Mon–Wed 4–11pm; Thu/Fri noon–midnight; Sat 10.30am–midnight; Sun noon–midnight.] Veg; HW £12.50 ; Kids; Wh; T/A. £8 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

On a converted whitewashed warehouse in the west of the city, there’s a small hand-painted sign reading ‘La Bodega Tapas Bar’. Despite the modest appearance, La Bodega, part of the Dance with Attitude Studios − is a unique Spanish-owned venture serving up authentic tapas. Laid-back, neighbourly and full of character, there are bare plaster walls, salvaged and recycled furnishings, a slapdash wooden floor, nostalgic images and a stage fit for Buena Vista Social Club. Home-made dishes based on traditional Spanish recipes come in three generous sizes – ‘tapas’, ‘portion’ or ‘meal’, alongside hot and cold bocadillo sandwiches to eat-in or takeaway. Slow-cooked hearty stew of tender beef and Mediterranean vegetables tastes divine, while classic Canarian dry salted potatoes are perfect for dipping in herby coriander and piquant red pepper sauces. Great tasting coffee and sweet, chewy Santiago almond tart are the perfect match. With hand-picked Spanish wines, daily blackboard specials and regular live street dance and latin music events, La Bodega has all the right ingredients for a Spanish fiesta to remember. + Genuine Spanish tapas and live gigs worth the taxi/bus ride - Wobbly hand-made MDF toilet cubicles

abundance. Bite-sized grilled, flattened sardines taste fresh and garlicky evoking flavours of the Med and tender meatballs smothered in Moorish spiced tomato sauce hit the spot. For a great lunch deal, it’s worth trying a main course ‘plato’, such as marinated Spanish pork skewers served with patatas bravas and salad – all for £4.95 with coffee. For pudding, it’s the liqueur-spiked chocolate that adds a touch of flamenco ‘Olé!’ to traditional profiteroles, while ‘bizcocho manzana’ – a warm layered apple sponge cake served with ice-cream – is simply perfect. + Authentic and original tapas - Limited wine choice

Tinto Tapas Bar

138 Battlefield Road, Southside, G42 9JT (Map 8: D6, 25) 0141 636 6838, tintotapasbar.co.uk | Mon–Sat 9:30am– midnight; Sun 10am–midnight. LC; Veg; Pre; HW £12.95; Kids; T/A. £7.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

This Southside neighbourhood treasure feels exactly like a rustic and cosy local tapas bar should. Dark wooden tables sit against a backdrop of regional Spanish wines, beers, liqueurs and knick-knacks, while a leg of Iberico ham lies ready to be carved. With authenticity at its heart, Moorish-inspired home-made tapas are Tinto’s mainstay. Chilled gazpacho laced with yoghurt and an olive oil swirl – packed with fresh veggie goodness – is the ideal aperitif. The macho-sized Spanish meatballs (albondigas) of tender minced beef and pork have a wonderful spicy tomato kick. Daily blackboard specials keep things interesting too. A fresh catch of tuna loin smothered in rich tomatoes and chilli evokes flavours of the Med. The seafood paella is less successful with no real depth of flavour and rice slightly undercooked. By contrast, the dreamy hot and cold vanilla custard with crisp caramelised layer has got to be one of the most authentic crema Catalana in the city. Tinto’s Spanish-style caffeine shots with home-made tablet are a must and late breakfast deals will keep those seeking a hearty brunch happy. + Extensive choice of authentic tapas - Noisy heater and uncomfortable chairs

Torres

327 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3HU (Map 6: B2, 8) 0141 332 6789, harlequinrestaurants.com or www. karmasutrarestaurants.com | Mon–Sun noon–11pm. Veg; Pre; HW £14.95; Kids. £5.95 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Malaga Tapas: great tapas, paella dishes and lunch deals on the Southside

If a little taste of the Med on Sauchiehall Street’s strip is what you’re after, then Torres fits the bill. It has all the clichéd hallmarks of a Spanish theme – chunky wooden chairs, terracotta walls, Gypsy Kings on the stereo and images of bulls, matadors and flamenco dancers. It’s a cosy venue run by the Harlequin Group and their Indian take on classic Spanish tapas makes for rewardingly tasty bites. Dishes win on freshness if not originality, and there are sufficient chicken, seafood, meat and veggie options – the grilled sardines are particularly good. Equally tasty is the toasted light pan a la Catalana topped with zesty chopped tomatoes with grilled goat’s cheese balanced by sweet chilli sauce. While the rich aromas of chorizo sausage with “butifarra negra” (black pudding) raise expectations, the plastic texture is this dish’s downfall. Best value is the selection of 10 tapas for two at £34.95 or a choice of four classic paella dishes for two to share from £8.95 per person. Authenticity may be lacking but nevertheless good service and decent fresh food make it worthwhile. + Consistently fresh and tasty tapas - Gloopy dessert - have a sherry instead

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TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY

In association with

Glasgow

TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY Since takeaways tend to be the neighbourhood place we head to when cooking for ourselves or going out for a meal isn’t on the agenda, this section aims to highlight the worthy places across the city. So whether you fancy a curry in the West End, a burrito in the City Centre or a pizza from the Southside, this is our pick of places that excel at what they do. Look out for restaurants throughout the other sections that also deliver, highlighted by a ‘D’ in their details. Reviewers:, David Kirkwood, Andrea Pearson, Jay Thundercliffe

[Another] Piece

387 Great Western Road, West End See Sandwich Bars feature in Cafés

Bagel Mania

338 Sauchiehall St, City Centre, G2 3JD See Sandwich Bars feature in Cafés

Balti Club

66 Woodlands Road, West End, G3 6HA (Map 9: H4, 82) 0141 332 5495, balticlub.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–4am; Fri 11.30am–4am Saturday 3pm–3am; Sunday 3–11.30pm. Delivery details: £1.50–£2

This long-standing takeaway, with a few stools inside, serves up a range of pakora, curries and grills, as well as standard burgers and pizzas and other crowd-pleasers like kebabs (the naanwrapped king chicken tikka kebab is a winner). The Indian dishes are as good as many of the city’s curryhouses – better in numerous cases. Strange, enticing pakora are a speciality – try the brie and spinach, mozzarella and cashew, or cauliflower and cheese; or opt for a puri, delivered still light and airy with a fresh and vibrant aloo chana topping coming separate. Thirty-odd mains include butter masalas, saags, kormas and biryanis. South Indian garlic chilli chicken is hot, fruity and packed with fresh pepper and green chilli, while a rich, subtle cumin-spiced Ceylonese korma is boosted by generous amounts of cream and a tang of cloves. Prices are great value for the quality on offer, and staff make you feel like a regular after you’ve been in once. aloo chana puri (£3.50); Ceylonese korma inc. rice (£6.95)

✱ Bon Appétit

1150 Argyle Street, West End, G3 8TE (Map 9: E5, 111) 0141 334 4479 | Sun–Thu 3pm–midnight; Fri/Sat 3pm–1am. Delivery details: £1.50+

After a brief hiatus last year to get a slick refurb and rebrand, Bon Appétit is back, and it is smarter, stronger and healthier than ever. From the reassuringly open kitchen, cheery staff serve up the same quality curries from a fairly compact Indian selection, heavily bolstered by a range of grill options, from kebabs to peri-peri chicken, with handy menu notes on nutritional advice – a most unusual dedication to punters’ waistlines for a takeaway. This health-conscious spirit continues with baked potatoes, rice bowls, salads and wraps (okay, maybe not the ‘kebab chip wrap’). Also, of course, there are the more standard burgers and pizzas and chips ‘n’ cheese. While there’s a notable care in the preparation and delivery across the whole menu, it is the

curries that are rightly elevated in many customers’ minds. Fresh, aromatic and with complexities not often found in a carry-out curry, there’s much to savour here, from an exceptional lamb karahi that is perfectly pitched on the heat – pleasantly tingly but also vibrant with fresh chilli flavours – to a creamy, nutty korma. Lamb Karahi, inc. rice or naan (£7.50)

Il Cappuccino

491 Great Western Road, West End See Sandwich Bars feature in Cafés

Carrot Top’s Café

24 St Andrews St, Merchant City See Sandwich Bars feature in Cafés

Cherry & Heather Fine Foods 7 North Gower Street, Southside See Sandwich Bars feature in Cafés

The Chippy Doon The Lane

84 Buchanan Street, McCormick Lane, City Centre, G1 3AJ (Map 6: D4, 76) 0141 225 5615, thechippyglasgow.com | Mon– Sun noon–9.30pm.

Whether the lane in question exudes shabby charm or is plain old shabby, the presentation inside this welcoming chippy ‘doon’ it is undeniably stylish. Attention is paid to the smallest details, from the lemon wedge garnish and paper tub of home-made tartare sauce to the cardboard box in which all meals come, even if you’re eating in at one of the sturdy wooden tables. The overall impression is a little more wholesome than the usual chipper, backed up by the kitchen’s buying policy of Scottish and sustainable produce. The menu offers the traditional singles and suppers plus monkfish tail, lemon sole and wholetail scampi. Healthier options are there too, and smoked haddock fish-cakes come with chilli sauce and salad. Haddock supper (£8.45)

Crêpe à Croissant

1 Ashley Street, West End, G3 6HB See Sandwich Bars feature in Cafés

✱ Eusebi Deli

793 Shettleston Road, East End, G32 7NN (Map 7: E1, off) 0141 763 0399, eusebi-food.co.uk | Tue–Sat 9am–6pm. Closed Sun/Mon.

One wonders if any first-time customer has ever visited Eusebi and not come back for more. It really is most impressive. When the doors open at 10am, the counter is packed with Italian delights, from rich, hearty classics such as lasagne or pork meatballs, through to elegantly prepared cuts of meat – say, roast beef or veal – accompanied by complex and full-bodied sauces. There is: seafood, plump prawns, seared and juicy, prepared traditionally with garlic and lemon, or with a touch of lemongrass and chilli for a Thai-feel; fillets of, perhaps, pork with butternut squash; majestic trays of salmonen-croute or sea bass with a delicate reduction of cream and leek. With fourcheese gnocchi; wild mushroom risotto; lobster ravioli with lemon mousse, trying to choose is a pleasantly overwhelming experience. And that’s just the savouries – all their dangerously good cakes are made on the premises as well. Give your loved one some Italian-style romance with Eusebi’s ‘romantic night in’ offer of two pasta dishes and bottle of wine for a tenner.

continue to grow in the Merchant City with a new addition to this year’s guide. Here, high-end fish suppers are exquisitely presented in a large Gandolfi Fish paper bag with a lemon wedge and pot of home-made tartare sauce. Daily specials are served up alongside regular helpings of pollock, monkfish, oysters, langoustines and even Cullen skink. Although they can give you a whole lobster with chips for £34 you can also opt for a black pudding supper for £6 if you feel the need. The perfectly seasoned mushy peas alone – they are only a pound – make the visit well worthwhile. Cod supper (£7.60)

Grassroots Organic

20 Woodlands Road, West End, G3 6UR (Map 9: H5, 86) 0141 353 3278, grassrootsorganic.com | Mon–Wed 8am– 6pm; Thu/Fri 8am–7pm; Sat 9am–6pm; Sun 11am–5pm.

This venerable Woodlands Road deli and general wholesome grocery shop has been keeping Glasgow’s foodies, vegans, veggies and conscientious consumers happy for over 30 years. There is an adjoining shop selling herbal meds in case the distinctly healthy – not to mention very tasty and ethical – food offerings don’t cure your ailments. It all starts early with vegan porridge available with a variety of additions. Into lunchtime is a range of deli-style sandwiches and wraps including a very tasty falafel version with onion and yogurt, plus chunkier hot food in the form of veggie burgers, soups, tagines and hot-pots. The range of cold food is no less tempting with the likes of salads, frittatas and pasta bakes, as well as an extensive olive bar. Take-home groceries include fresh fruit and veg – boxes can be ordered, plus a variety of Bavarian Bakehouse breads. Falafel wrap (£3.75)

Home Wok

101 Byres Road, West End, G11 5HW (Map 9: C3, 22) 0141 334 8433, homewok. co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 4.30pm– midnight; Sat/Sun 4.30pm–midnight. Delivery details: Delivery charge of £1.50 per mile daily; 5pm till midnight

The family owners of this modest but meaningful establishment have created a solid, popular menu with no reliance on greasy oils that leave an after-taste. On the contrary, the crispy coconut king prawns are light as a feather and deliciously delicate. A vegetarian option from the mains is the innovative pak choi and broccoli with soy bean pesto. Like their soy sauce – a delight itself – the pesto is smooth and fresh-tasting. The well-presented menu has good quality images of various dishes, including a whole page dedicated to sushi with a couple of dozen choices, as well as eight

✱ HITLIST TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY ✱ Bon Appétit After a refurb, they are back to dishing out some of the best curries in town. ✱ Eusebi Deli A most impressive and friendly deli for fantastic Italian food. ✱ Merchant Chippie Super fish suppers at good prices, plus fresh fish sales, done with passion. ✱ Rice and Noodle Maybe not the prettiest but offers genuinely top-quality Chinese food. ✱ Stefano’s A dedication to the pizza shows in the quality from this Southside takeaway ✱ Taco Mazama Now with two branches, it’s easier to enjoy some excellent Mexican food. and fifteen-piece sushi boxes. Hong Kong Chinese, Thai and Japanese style dishes compete for space among the extensive starters and mains such as tempura, spring rolls, tofu, chicken wings, Peking duck, satay, wok curry – the list is long and enticing. This takeaway really delivers on taste. Chicken pak choi yellow bean pesto (£6)

La Tea Doh

136 Nithsdale Road, Southside, G41 5RB See Sandwich Bars feature in Cafés

✱ Merchant Chippie

155 High Street, Merchant City, G1 1PH (Map 7: D2, 17) 0141 552 5789 | Mon– Fri 8am–11pm; Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 3pm–11pm.

It is a tall order persuading people that fish suppers are healthy but that is just what this newcomer in the Merchant City is trying to do. Its menu is full of brain development this and organic oil that, but at the end of the day the proof is, as

Home Wok

Chinese Takeaway – Japanese Sushi – Home Delivery www.homewok.co.uk

Lasagne (£4.50)

Gandolfi Fish to Go

86 Albion Street, Merchant City, G1 1NY (Map 7: C2, 24) 0141 552 9475, cafegandolfi.com | Sun–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm.

It is great to see the Gandolfi family

101 Byres Rd, Glasgow – 0141 334 8433 1550 Great Western Rd, Glasgow – 0141 3410514

Bringing genuine Far East food to the West End The List Eating & Drinking Guide 169

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TAKEAWAY & DELIVERY

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Glasgow they say, in the pudding. And it does taste good too. Fish is freshly fried in front of you, coated in a ‘secret’ batter or covered in a light and delicate crumb. On offer are the usual fishy suspects plus salmon, calamari, sea bass, and prawns, all brought in from Anstruther and Aberdeen daily. And any of the fresh fish on offer are also available to buy – a feature of chippies in other parts of the world but not commonplace in the UK. Fish supper (£4.70–£6.30)

1901 Deli

11 Skirving Street, Southside, G41 3AB See Sandwich Bars feature in Cafés

Rice and Noodle

96 Dumbarton Road, West End, G11 6NX (Map 9: C3, 20) 0141 357 2300 | Mon–Sun 4.30–11.30pm. Delivery details: £1.40–£2.50

With its small frontage, minimal seating and proximity to pubs, Rice and Noodle could easily be categorised as your standard, run-of-the-mill takeaway outlet. An extensive menu with few surprises, all at moderate prices, further suggests this eatery is designed for inebriated diners. Yet, the hordes of students and families squeezing into the 12 seats or ordering a carry-out suggest otherwise, and what they come for is the food – unfussy Chinese cuisine that is packed full of flavour. Salt and pepper popcorn chicken is much more than a gimicky name, while chicken satay benefits from a tasty home-made sauce, delivering a double hit of spice and crunch. Mains, particularly the Szechuan dishes, are impressive, and come served on picnicesque, polka-dotted plates for those dining in. In many ways, Rice and Noodle resembles the famed Asia Style during its infancy – reasonably priced food cooked to a high-standard within a basic and understated setting. King prawn Szechuan inc. rice or noodles (£6)

Smoak

61 Old Dumbarton Road, West End See Sandwich Bars feature in Cafés

✱ Stefano’s

1108 Cathcart Road, Southside, G42 9EG (Map 8: E6, off) 0141 649 3963 | Sun–Sat 5–11pm. Delivery details: £1.50

Takeaway pizzas aren’t what they used to be – invariably the weak link in a place that flaunts the neon ‘Pizzas-

Curries-Kebabs’ sign, or ruined by a big American chain by sticking a gimmicky stuffed crust round the edge. Stefano’s is of the old guard: thin-based affairs with big, irregular blisters and charring on the perimeter, moving towards a chewy centre that can be folded up and crammed into the mouth. Toppings range from the light and simple – ‘Bella Lugosi’ (cheese, tomato and sweetcorn) – through to sizzling numbers like ‘Sloppy Joy’ (salami, pepperoni, hot sauce and a chilli pepper). ‘Mark Anchovy’ is about the only one of all these silly names that actually gives any indication of what sort of pizza it is. But it’s not difficult to choose: they sell nothing else, they’re a lot cheaper than most places, and the goods are ready in next-to-no time. Paradiso pizza – cheese, ham and mushroom (£6.30, 12 inch)

✱ Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen

• 6 Renﬁeld Street, City Centre, G2 5AL (Map 6: D4, 82) 0141 248 8940, tacomazama.co.uk | Sun–Wed noon–10pm; Thu noon–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–4am. Delivery details: £1 City Centre; £2.50 outside, Mon–Fri lunchtimes, and all week after 6pm. • 261 Byres Road, West End, G12 8TL (Map 9: D1, 43) 0141 337 3399 | Mon–Wed 11.30am–10pm; Thu/Fri 11.30am–11pm; Sat/Sun noon–11pm.

This is authentic US-style Mexican food. The menu is not vast but the freshness of the food makes this a must-visit to either of their branches. On offer are burritos, chillis, nachos, tacos and quesadillas – a grilled cheese ‘sandwich’ of tortillas served with extra fillings – which are probably the stars of the show. The side salsa comes in four different heat strengths and the jalapeños would be hot and crunchy enough to satisfy a real cowboy. The meat and veg fillings are a notch above what you might expect at a takeaway – the char-grilled chicken has a depth of meaty flavour and the barbecue pork, slow-cooked for seven hours, has a rich fruity sauce that complements the pork and chillis with a Christmassy spice. Vegetarians can opt for zucchini with peppers and butternut squash or aubergine and mushroom. The massive burritos – rice, beans, sour cream, salad, cheese and meat or vegetables all wrapped in soft floury, convenient and easy-to-

carry, tortilla – are a generous meal in themselves. Slow-cooked pork burrito (£4.99)

Taste

240 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre See Sandwich Bars feature in Cafés

The Upper House

441 Victoria Road, Southside, G42 8RW (Map 8: E2, 10) 0141 423 8000, upperhouseglasgow.co.uk | Wed–Mon 5–11pm (closed Tue). Delivery details: £1.30–£1.80

Last year’s Eastern Platform is this year’s Upper House – a change in management and a slight reigning-in of the pan-Asian menu. It’s an improvement. Gone are some of the more frivolous Thai and Japanese numbers, but classics like chicken gyozas, teriyaki and pattayas remain, alongside the satays, Malaysian sambal curries (more subtly sweet and sour than the sweet and sour we’re used to) and Cantonese favourites. It’s actually a pleasant change to have a takeaway menu from this region that doesn’t exhaust you with it’s multitudinous options. And (foodies look away) their salt and chilli chips – fries finished in the wok with fresh pepper and chilli – are a bit of a local legend. Chicken teriyaki and boiled rice (£6.30)

VIP Taste

623 Cathcart Road, Southside, G42 8AE (Map 8: E2, off) 0141 433 9111, viptaste. co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–11pm.

You’ll not want for a decent curry in Glasgow, but even by this city’s high standards, VIP Taste stands out for its simple, authentic cooking. You’re more likely to get ‘lamb with potatoes’ or ‘chicken with chickpeas’ than ‘bhuna’ or ‘tikka masala’ here, and at ridiculously cheap prices. Massive yoghurt-marinated legs of chicken sit alongside trays of samosas and spiced patties of lamb mince, while chapattis are made to order in front of you. Owner Abdul Rehman’s main business is catering (for groups well into the hundreds) and he’s provided food for various political functions over the years. A gradual refurbishment process has just finished in the kitchen and is working its way towards the front of house, but until then, anyone who can see beyond the spartan interior and who has had enough of kormas and jalfrezis might want to try this place. Lamb curry and two chapatis (£6)

Whole Foods Market

124–134 Fenwick Road, Giffnock, Southside, G46 6XN (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 621 2700, wholefoodsmarket.com | Mon–Sun 8am–9pm.

A bedazzling array of healthy, natural and organic produce that feels like a detox just walking around. Whole Foods Market is a welcome windfall for the hundreds of carefully chosen suppliers they use, from cheesemakers – nibbling the samples at the cheese counter could be an all-day affair – brewers and scallop-divers to pig farmers. But there are also a lot of air miles spread over the shelves. And be careful what you scoop up. The trolley tally may knock you for six but yes – dammit! – those mini organic bite-size brownies do taste so much better than bog standard supermarket fare. You can also eat-in and try such delights as a tasty Tuscan soup and a chunky Mediterranean focaccia, or a delicious parmesan-crusted chicken, and sage-infused quinoa and sweet potato cakes. Lasagne (£3.99)

Yadgar Kebab House

148 Calder Street, Southside, G42 7QP (Map 8: E1, off) 0141 424 3722, yadgar. co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–midnight; Fri 2.30pm–1am; Sat–Sun noon–1am.

Standing in a line of locals there’s plenty of time to survey the array of meats, kebabs and curries on offer at Govanhill’s Yadgar. The place paints its proud Pakistani roots on both its dishes and the menu itself, which shares the colours and insignia of the national flag. There’s space for over 20 people to sit in, and at the weekends this section bustles. The quality food here includes a number of familiar curries, many of which are laid out in huge trays in the shop front waiting to be quickly snapped up by a steady stream of diners, most local but with a few pilgrims. The daal harbours a powerful kick, as does the chicken karahi – though there’s enough skill involved in the preparation that it doesn’t overpower. As well as the extensive Indian selection there’s the ubiquitous kebab and a dozen pizzas on offer – though it’s impossible to see past the Indian dishes that have made Yadgar’s name. Chicken jalfrezi with rice (£7)

Eusebi Deli (page 169): fantastic Italian food at this excellent deli

For full explanations see page 4.

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VEGETARIAN

In association with

Glasgow

VEGETARIAN Glasgow’s veggie scene has become a lively, informal affair of late with many restaurant spaces doubling as gig venues, arts and theatre spots, or chatty bars. The surprise to many is how down to earth dishes have become, from pub-grub style pies to sausages, wraps, stews, tapas and burgers, the accent these days is on fun and filling. And because they keep an eye on their supply chain, vegetarian outlets lead the way in pristine sourcing and authentic ingredients. Reviewer: Bronwen Livingstone, Malcolm McGonigle

Artisan Roast

15–17 Gibson Street, West End, G12 8NU See Cafés

Mono

12 Kings Court, King Street, Merchant City, G1 5RB (Map 7: C3, 41) 0141 553 2400, monocafebar.com | Sun–Sat noon–9pm. [Bar open: Mon/Tue 11am– midnight; Wed/Thu 11am–midnight; Fri/ Sat 11am–1am; Sun 11am–midnight.] Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh. £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Mono has been serving Glasgow’s veggie and vegan clientele for ten years now and it’s easy to see the attraction. The room has an indie vibe with a raised platform for the eating area, a good-sized stage for visiting musicians and a long colourful bar dominating the back wall. The five large silver vats forming a line along one wall aren’t just ornamental –Mono actually produces its own range of organic ginger beers and lemonade with each unique brew being pumped directly to the bar. The menu is small but a specials board adds two starters and main dishes per day. Cauliflower fritters in beer batter accompanied by lime yoghurt offers a vibrant and juicy highlight as does the splendid beetroot hummus. From the mains, vegetable lasagne is lively and flavoursome with a rich seam of aubergine, courgette and spinach. Choice baking skills are also evident in the desserts where the tequila cheesecake, has an oaty base and some zingy lime radiance. Service is sharp and nimble with staff aiming to help their customers relax into a friendly, easy-going mood. + Fun ambience - A tad overlit

✱ Saramago Café Bar

CCA, 350 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, G2 3JD (Map 6: B2, 11) 0141 352 4920, cca-glasgow.com/cafe | Mon–Sat 10am– 10pm. Closed Sun. [Bar open: Mon–Sat 10am–midnight. Closed Sun.] Veg; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £7.50 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Occupying a light, airy atrium in the heart of the CCA, Saramago draws a bohemian crowd – you’re more likely to find an up-and-coming conceptual artist or filmmaker at the next table than a weary Sauchiehall Street shopper. The menu is a tour of mostly Mediterranean and North African flavours, with the occasional foray into the Far East. ‘Small plates’ include aubergine with mint, chilli and lemon, a Moroccan-inspired carrot salad and rather good vegetable tempura. Baba ganoush is thick, garlicky and smoky, and served with triangles of excellent flatbread. Mains are sandwiches, salads and pasta options, for the most part. Hearty potato gnocchi with arrabiata sauce is tasty enough but missing the vital

salt-tang of parmesan. Ratatouille tart, however, is a treat; crisp pastry is piled with grilled veg and accompanied by a successful dill and caraway coleslaw. Those who save space can enjoy a squidgy chocolate tart or gelato affogato – ice-cream flanked by shot glasses of amaretto liqueur and devilishly strong espresso which, combined, are heavenly. When vegan food is this good, who needs meat? + Pan-global tastes of the ‘small plates’ - Disappointing shortbread biscuits

The 78

10–14 Kelvinhaugh Street, West End, G3 8NU (Map 9: E6, 112) 0141 576 5018, the78cafebar.com | Mon–Fri 12.30–9pm; Sat/Sun noon–9pm. [Bar open: Mon–Fri 12.30pm–midnight; Sat/Sun noon– midnight.] Veg; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £8 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

This charming laid-back café/bar has the feel of a country house – set incongruously just off Argyle Street. A long bar dominates the rustically informal room with a line of aged wooden tables, an open fireplace and comfy armchairs hogging its large windows. A small menu boasting curries, pies and veggie burgers is augmented by a daily specials option where the food can be loosely described as vegan pub grub – albeit produced with verve. Starter of home-made hummus is bright and nutty with a light, fluffy texture and comes in two flavours with an accompaniment of house-marinated olives and chunks of toasted pitta. From the mains the Daily Pot is terrific value featuring home-made stews such as the veggie crumble – a hearty, aromatic melange studded with chunky squash, turnip, onions and topped with a herby breadcrumb crunch and served with a good dollop of mash – all for a fiver. Tasty and healthy food aside, The 78 is a vibrant hub for music, organic ales and community events creating a welcome warm-hearted, earthy vibe in a West End increasingly besotted with glitz and glint. + Great value home cooking - Noisy when the entertainment kicks in

✱ Stereo

20–28 Renfield Lane, City Centre, G2 5AR (Map 6: C4, 63) 0141 222 2254, stereocafebar.com | Mon–Sun noon– 9pm. [Bar open: Mon/Tue noon–1am, Wed–Sun noon–3am.] Veg; Pre; HW £13.95; Kids; Wh; T/A. £10 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Although it’s hard to catch the full vista from the narrow lane, Stereo is housed in a superb Charles Rennie Mackintoshdesigned building, all exterior white tiles and square windows with double doors opening into a leisurely eating and drinking space which has the feel of a relaxed arts venue. The food is mainly vegan with the accent on fun, filling and tasty. The small menu boasts staples such as gnocchi, pizzas and the signature haggis fritter with hand-cut chips. Tapas dishes highlight the chef’s creativity – choices may include rustic roasted figs with beetroot laced with seeds and spices, vegetable tempura featuring an airy spring water batter that keeps its crunch to the last bite, red pepper hummus which is rich and full flavoured with a hint of chillies, or a generous helping of marinated mushrooms on thick organic toast. Daily specials and puddings are announced from a board with a lush trio of vegan ice-cream being light, fruity and syrupy. With a turnover of live acts, a full-size gig venue downstairs and an arts venue across the lane it’s easy to see why Stereo keeps busy all year round. + Fun seasonal cooking - Some of the aged chairs are a bit wobbly

Tapa Bakehouse

21 Whitehill Street, Dennistoun, East End, G31 2LH (Map 7: E1, off ) 0141 554 9981, tapabakehouse.co.uk | Mon–Sat 8am–6pm; Sun 9am–5pm. Veg; Kids; Wh; T/A. £6.95 (set lunch)

Tapa is essentially a functioning bakery with a front of shop area for takeaway or sit-in sampling. Practically everything for sale in the café is made there. A wide range of organic loaves, savoury brioche, pastries, bagels, foccacia and unctuous gluten-free cakes are brought daily out of its ovens with ‘improving agents’ spurned in favour of traditional methods like saved doughs and natural flavourings. The small eating area has a suitably rustic feel with high walls and wooden tables dotted higgledy-piggledy around the stone tiled floor. Alongside the menu, daily dishes are announced from a specials board and may include a thick courgette and cauliflower soup with a fine velvety sheen and delightful herby highlights, or mains such as a hearty mixed bean chilli or the succulent home-made Spanish tortilla layered up with potato, onion and mixed peppers. In an era where there’s much worrying about the outlook for the high street, Tapa offers a vision of the future: locally grown organic produce turned into scrumptious, healthy and adventurous dishes in the heart of the community. + Large array of high quality food - Small eating area

Tchai-Ovna House of Tea

42 Otago Lane, West End, G12 8PB (Map 9: F3, 65) 0141 357 4524, tchaiovna.com | Mon–Sun 11am–10pm. Veg. £8.50 (lunch) / £8.50 (dinner)

With its stone floors, threadbare rugs, basket weave screens and Moorish lamps this eccentric little tavern could easily be tucked into the corner of a Marrakesh market rather than at the end of Otago Lane. A jumble of comfy old chairs and reclaimed tables are dotted around the room amidst the lingering perfume of the wealth of exotic teas on offer, creating a leisurely, almost soporific vibe. Eastern delights take precedence on the menu (prepared offsite in a Buddhist kitchen) with a large starter of dolmades being moist and juicy served with a piquant dressed salad. Mains include the monthly special, usually a stew or curry served with pitta or rice, or the sizeable home-made falafels served with hummus or baba ganoush. A richly seasoned Chipotle Chilli is thick and smoky with chunky roasted vegetables and laced with bright coconut. Outdoors, a generous deck built around a willow tree extends the exotic feel, maintaining a tranquil hang-out or meeting place for those of a contemplative or creative bent – or just needing a break from the ubiquitous presence of alcohol.

✱ HITLIST VEGETARIAN ✱ Saramago Plundering global cuisines to showcase the diversity of vegan food, served up in a smart, airy setting. ✱ Stereo Artsy and cool with great tapas-style food and an appealing European vibe. + Quirky, replenishing and relaxing - Leisurely vibe extends to the service

The 13th Note Café/Bar

50–60 King Street, Merchant City, G1 5QT (Map 7: C3, 40) 0141 553 1638, 13thnote.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. [Bar open: Sun–Thu noon–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–midnight.] Veg; HW £12.50; Kids (until 6pm); Wh; T/A. £8 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

As befits a busy live venue, 13th Note has a cool and funky vibe that attracts music and arts lovers of all ages. A cavernous red room with large windows hosts the bar area with the café perched a few stairs up at the back. The mood of the room changes from a laid-back chill zone by day where locals and lunchers mingle, to full on heaving crowds on gig nights. The café serves vegan fare and staff have been working hard to upscale this part of the operation adding new dishes and improving the all-round dining experience. Starters of croquettes are firm and light stuffed with mozzarella, broccoli and pesto, served with a punchy tomato and smoked paprika dip. From the mains, mousaka is full-flavoured and rustic, layered with potatoes, tomato and lentils, while a muscular haggis and neeps is rife with authentic seasoning accompanied by a rich brandy and peppercorn sauce that adds real flair. Cheesecake, accompanied by fruity compote, is a clever tofu creation that delivers punchy flavours. Service is relaxed and friendly. A great place to meet up or hang out. + Great buzz - Red walls could do with a refresh

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AROUND EDINBURGH

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Outside the Cities

AROUND EDINBURGH Chefs based in the countryside or by the sea have an advantage over city rivals in their proximity to fresh produce and the stories that so often come with that local food. In this part of the guide we’ve picked out a selection of restaurants from the Lothians and Borders region that are well worth an excursion out of town for a special meal, an overnight escape or a memorable Sunday lunch with friends. Reviewers: Margaret Craik, Louise Donoghue, Hannah Ewan, Robin McKelvie, Anna Millar, Sandy Neil, Claire Ritchie

The Boat House

22 High Street, South Queensferry, EH30 9PP, 0131 331 5429, theboathouse-sq. co.uk | Restaurant: Mon–Fri 5.30–10pm; Sat noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 5.30–8pm. Bistro: Mon–Sat noon–9.30pm; Sun 12.30–9pm. £15.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

The undisputed gem in South Queensferry’s culinary crown, The Boat House has great Rail Bridge views, relaxed surrounds and a confident, creative pair of hands in the kitchen. Split into two parts, the bistro and restaurant both hold unique charms. The former impresses with its fresh, tasty offerings of classic dishes. A smoked salmon starter and main seafood linguine excel, dense with an array of the week’s catch. The adjacent restaurant may be more a little more formal and quieter in tone, but it equally pulls out all the fishy stops, complete with innovative butter sauces and tangy, memorable reductions. Desserts range from sticky toffee pudding and crème brûlée to a compelling cheese plate. On a warm day, round your meal off with an Irish coffee on the waterfront patio overlooking the Forth Estuary.

The Bridge Inn

27 Baird Road, Ratho, West Lothian, EH28 8RA, 0131 333 1320, bridgeinn. com | Mon–Fri noon–3pm, 6–9.30pm; Sat noon–6pm, 6–9.30pm; Sun noon– 8pm. £14 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Those familiar with the Bridge Inn at Ratho before its recent renovation will remember a decent watering hole located partway up the Union Canal. Not only has the inside undergone a seriously slick, country pub-style transformation complete with roaring fire and comfy seating, the food has enjoyed a hearty injection too, with local, seasonal specials and fresh produce being showcased, not to mention homeproduced pork. The rare wood pigeon starter with rich bean cassoulet, pancetta and rosemary is excellent, so too the succulent hand-diced scallops, with buttered turnip puree and crispy smoked bacon. Mains are equally inventive, a 21-day hung Buccleuch fillet and duo of Sutherland venison confirming how seriously the Inn embraces good Scottish produce. A good selection of local ales and malts, as well as a tasty, reasonablypriced wine menu, with four en-suite bedrooms upstairs for those looking to make a night of it.

Chez Roux

Greywalls Hotel, Muirfield, Gullane, East Lothian, EH31 2EG, 01620 842144, greywalls.co.uk | Restaurant: Mon– Sun noon–2.30pm, 7–10pm. Bar food: Mon–Sun noon–10pm. Afternoon Tea: 2.30–5.30pm. £26.50 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

Greywalls has in its time played host to many happy family events, and the 2010 marriage between the Weaver family’s country house hotel and Albert Roux’s Inverlochy Castle Management International is surely not the least of them. A meal here is, rightly, an unrushed experience: a drink beside the fire in the book-lined library before your meal, and a deeply cushioned sofa in which to relax with coffee afterwards are part of the Edwardian country house charm. The menu changes each season and while Scotland contributes the fish, the game and the prime Aberdeen Angus, Glasgow-born but Roux-trained chef Derek Johnstone’s style is firmly of classic French tradition. A pike quenelle with lobster sauce and brown shrimp is copybook, while roasted saddle of rabbit with sautéed kidneys is perfectly judged, and complemented by fresh herbs and a silky carrot mousse. Wines – handpicked by Albert – are impressive.

Coltman’s Delicatessen & Kitchen

71–73 High Street, Peebles, EH45 8AN, 01721 720405, coltmans.co.uk | Mon/ Tue 10am–6.30pm; Thu–Sat 10am– 9.30pm; Sun 10am–3.30pm. £17 (lunch) / £19.95 (set dinner)

Kenny Coltman brings a career in kitchens including Edinburgh’s Prestonfield House and Caledonian Hotel to his versatile deli and restaurant on Peebles picturesque high street. From picnic ingredients to evening tapas or a three-course meal in the small restaurant, peckishness is slaked from breakfast through to dinner. The interior is light, smart and airy, with gentle Scottish riffs throughout. Everything from quiche to chutney is made on site, and there’s a balance between local ingredients, Scottish stock and continental cheeses and charcuterie. With only three tables in the deli section, higher sit-in prices encourage taking away, but the river bank just around the corner is a lovely place to enjoy a freshly baked sausage roll or slice of cake.

Duck’s at Kilspindie House

Kilspindie House, Main Street, Aberlady, East Lothian, EH32 0RE, 01875 870682, ducks.co.uk | Summer: Sun–Thu 7.30–10am, noon–9pm; Fri/Sat 7.30– 10am, noon–10pm. Winter: Sun–Thu 7.30–10am, noon–3pm, 5–9pm; Fri/Sat 7.30–10am, noon–3pm, 5–10pm. £15 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Tiring of the city restaurant scene a few years ago, Malcolm Duck upped sticks from Edinburgh’s New Town and moved his business operation out to tranquil Aberlady. There he took over Kilspindie House and set about transforming it from a tired hotel to an upmarket restaurant with rooms. Now, Duck’s at Kilspindie sets out its stall on various fronts: as a daytime coffee shop for locals, a destination high-end restaurant for daytrippers, and an informal bistro for hungry golfers. With a vast and impressive wine list and an enticing menu that namechecks its local suppliers, the fine-dining Ducks restaurant is on the right track. Prime Scottish produce is the star here – west coast scallops, Buccleuch beef and Orkney salmon are all present and correct. Donald’s Bistro offers a huge menu of options, ranging from burgers and steaks to hot sandwiches and fish ‘n’ chips, all carb-heavy choices intended to fill the gap created by a long day on one of 15 local golf courses. A lick of paint here and there, some modern fittings and a bit more consistency from the kitchen would go a long way towards making it great.

The Grill at Dakota Forthbridge

Dakota Forth Bridge, Ferrymuir Retail Park, South Queensferry, EH30 9QZ, 0870 423 4293, dakotaforthbridge. co.uk | Mon–Thu 6–10am, noon–2.30pm, 6–10:30pm; Fri 6–10am, noon–2.30pm, 6–10pm; Sat 7–11am, noon–2.30pm, 6–10pm; Sun 7–11am, 1–5pm, 6–9pm. £22 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

a feather and utterly uncloying, while a shot of red pepper and dill puts sparkle through tagliatelle with crab, tiger prawns and lobster cream. What’s for the kids? Chicken goujons, mac cheese and fish fingers – home-made, every one.

La Potinière

Main Street, Gullane, EH31 2AA, 01620 843214, lapotiniere.co.uk | Wed–Sun 12.30–1.30pm, 7–8.30pm. Closed Mon/ Tue. [Oct–May: also closed Sun eve]. £24 (set lunch) / £43 (set dinner)

La Potinière has enjoyed a glowing reputation for the last ten years under the patronage of chefs Keith Marley and Mary Runciman. Catering for just over twenty diners, the cosy setting is a favoured destination for locals and those from further afield celebrating special occasions. Every dish on the set four course menu reflects seasonal variations, as well as produce from local and Scottish suppliers. Starters such as ham hock and foie gras terrine with brioche are followed by an intermediate course of creamy Thai coconut soup with poached scallops. The main course choice might be between roast monkfish or a fillet of local venison – and despite perfect cooking, a dessert of chocolate moulleux with prune and armagnac compote, caramel sauce and apple sorbet could still be the highlight. The service is exact, friendly and they will happily cater in advance for all dietary requirements. Nice touches such as an amuse bouche of pea and mint soup, or a pre-dessert raspberry milkshake taster round off an evening of remarkable food.

Samphire Seafood Bar and Grill at Orocco Pier

17 High Street, South Queensferry, EH30 9PP, 0870 118 1664, oroccopier.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–3pm, 6–10pm; Sat/Sun 8am–10pm. £10.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

It may look like something to do with M16 located at the side of the motorway at South Queensferry, but the Dakota Hotel houses a stylish bar and restaurant that has a reputation that extends well beyond their hotel guests. The emphasis has switched recently from seafood (although Isle of Mull grilled langoustines with garlic and parsley are still a highlight) to a more varied menu where seasonal food is simple and well executed, such as roast monkfish wrapped in pancetta with Lyonnais potatoes. For more of a flying visit the bar menu offers their twist on a ploughman’s (scotch egg, pickled vegetables, cheese, ham salad, with pickle and speciality breads), burgers and sandwiches. Service is of a very high standard – friendly but never intrusive, and the entire operation displays meticulous attention to detail.

As the go-to destination for a drink in South Queensferry, Orocco Pier’s stunning views of the Forth Rail and Road Bridge ensure it’s a popular haunt with locals and visitors seeking a stylish hang out. While the Antico bar at Orocco has long been the default destination, the recently refurbished Samphire Seafood Bar and Grill is picking up pace, its stylish, slick surrounds attracting a burgeoning clientele. As the name suggests, the emphasis here is largely on seafood from langoustines to squid. For the meat seekers, the char-grilled section of the menu is plentiful, rich with rib-eye, t-bone and fillet steaks. The weekday lunch and supper menus are great value, although the dining space undoubtedly enjoys an injection of life as the night goes on. Those with a sweet tooth have ample to turn to, including poached pear with gingerbread and mascarpone.

Osso Restaurant

The Sunflower Restaurant

Soup. A cheese plate. Pasta. A pot of tea. You don’t have to go a million miles to find them, but how far do you have to go to find simple things good enough for a Michelin Bib Gourmand two years running? Answer: Peebles’ smart little café-restaurant, Osso. There’s imagination and far-flung influences on Ally McGrath’s menu, from the silky, smoky baba ganoush on the tapas selection to the falafel, cucumber and yoghurt filled flatbread snuggled in beside the bacon butty on the sandwich listing. Whether it’s an afternoon scone or an accomplished and elegant three-course dinner, skill, care and conscientious sourcing shine out. The baked lemon cheesecake is light as

Long before local, seasonal produce became a national obsession, The Sunflower was already rolling its sleeves up about food provenance. The steaks, for example, are from family Peebles butcher Forsyths, the organic ice cream and sorbets from nearby Over Langshaw. Owner and head chef Val Brunton’s passion for cooking shines through her bright and airy wee restaurant. The short but eclectic menu kicks off flitting between continents with spicy chicken laksa or home-made sourdough bread with roasted peppers and balsamic infused red onions. The aforementioned fillet steaks are served properly rare if you

1 Innerleithen Road, Peebles, EH45 8BA, 01721 724477, ossorestaurant. com | Sun/Mon 11am–4.30pm; Tue–Sat 11am–4.30pm, 6–9pm. £15 (lunch) / £27 (dinner)

4 Bridgegate, Peebles, EH45 8RZ 01721 722420, sunflowerrestaurant. co.uk | Mon–Wed noon–3pm; Thu–Sat noon–3pm, 6–9pm. [Coffee and cakes: Mon–Sat 10am–noon]. £14.50 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

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Outside the Cities dare, while continents are crossed again for a zesty Moroccan lamb burger with feta and coriander. Kids can enjoy real food too with chicken nuggets eschewed in favour of ham bruschetta.

Waterside Bistro

1–5 Waterside, Haddington, East Lothian, EH41 4AT, 01620 825674, watersidebistro.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 6–9pm; Sat noon–3pm, 6–9.30pm; Sun 12.30–4pm, 6–8pm. £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

A river, an ancient bridge and a grassy riverbank dotted with ducks. The Waterside has it all, whether a sunny day entices you to a table outside or a chilly evening makes you want to sit snug by the fire and admire it all through the quaintly astragalled window panes. After a brief, unhappy period of corporate ownership, this lovely old Haddington eating house is bustling once again. New owners have picked gentle paint colours and muted tartans, and recruited chef Andy Rees, formerly of Edinburgh’s Atrium. The menu is a showcase for the riches of the East Lothian countryside, from Ballencrieff Rare Breed pork to Knowes Farm vegetables and Colstoun estate pheasant and venison. Lunch is fixed price or a roster of well-prepared snacks, sandwichs and pub classics. Dinner brings imaginative dishes and refined presentation, with Newmilne lamb tenderly toothsome and salads and vegetables fresh and appetising. Vino Wines provide a decent wine list and stock the bar with 30 bottled beers.

Whitmuir the Organic Place

Whitmuir Farm, Lamancha, West Linton, Scottish Borders, EH46 7BB, 01968 661147, whitmuirtheorganicplace.co.uk | Mon–Sun 10am–5pm. £13 (lunch)

‘The health of soil, plant, animal and man is one and indivisible,’ reads the quote above Whitmuir Organics’ café and restaurant near Lamancha in Peeblesshire. Everything sold in the surprisingly large shop here (all 3000 lines) is organic,

including the family-run farm’s own meat, free-range eggs, 32 seasonal vegetables, fruits, salad leaves and homebaked artisan bread, avowedly the first using Scottish wheat since the repeal of the Corn Laws. Through in the café, the same produce is used to cook dishes from scratch for breakfast, lunch and tea, from a ‘mouse’s picnic’ of finger foods for kids, to light soups and open sandwiches or heftier beef burgers and three-course daily specials. Wholesome parsnip and ginger soup comes with magnificent brown bread – if only it wrapped the spicy, herby veggie burger too. The organic wines are low in hangover-inducing sulphites. Whitmuir’s various enterprises – there’s an art gallery between the shop and café, as well as various farm walks and explorations – are market by smiling young staff and families from toddlers to the elderly, and you’re likely to leave convinced of their message: eat organic, feel healthier, live better.

Windlestraw Lodge

Tweed Valley, Walkerburn, Scottish Borders, EH43 6AA, 01896 870636, windlestraw.co.uk | Mon–Sun 6.30pm– 8.30pm. £30 (set dinner)

This Edwardian country house is now an intimate restaurant with rooms created by chef Alan Reid and his wife Julie. Diners are welcomed to a log fire in an elegant, convivial salon for aperitifs and canapés. In the oak paneled, candle-lit dining room, Alan’s daily changing menus of seasonal Borders produce include fish and shellfish fetched from Eyemouth harbour to game hunted on Peeblesshire’s estates and the herbs and salad leaves grown in their own glasshouse. The delightful, interesting and masterful cooking, from the starter of baked goats’ cheese crotin on roasted balsamic beetroot to a jolly dessert of spring rhubarb and elderflower champagne mousse in a flute with a shotglass of rhubarb jelly, confirms Windlestraw as a magical place that fully deserves its reputation as the best dining in the Borders.

AROUND GLASGOW It’s well worth remembering that Glasgow’s fine dining options extend well beyond the city boundaries, with two very contrasting Michelin-starred restaurants within striking distance. Less formal options are equally enticing, whether you’re heading south on the way to Ayrshire, into the satellite towns to the west and east or north into the Carse of Stirling and Perthshire – areas also covered in the next section beginning on page 174. Reviewers: Donald MacInnes, Steve Morton, Andrea Pearson

Braidwoods

Drumastle Mill Cottage, Saltcoats Road, by Dalry, KA24 4LN 01294 833544, braidwoods.co.uk | Tue 7–9pm; Wed–Sat noon–1.45pm, 7–9pm; Sun noon–1.45pm. Closed Mon. [May–Sep: closed Sun]. £23 (set lunch) / £43 (set dinner)

Braidwoods is one of those curious members of Scotland’s fine dining elite: a place you’ve heard of but rarely actually meet someone who’s been there. On the outskirts of Dalry, it has quietly got on with serving extremely good food in an unfussy, modest country setting. Starters veer towards seafood and game, with an excellent breast of quail on a bed of leeks, or scallops served with pea puree, a reliable pairing with the intriguing addition of a crispy chicken wing. A second course of Parmesan tart with red pepper coulis is meltingly gorgeous. Roast loin of rabbit stuffed with mushroom is bursting with flavour and although more delicate, fillet of turbot on herb and asparagus risotto also succeeds.

Desserts are traditional and largely comforting. Dark Valrhona chocolate truffle cake is a rich, decadent delight and the hot apple tart with caramel sauce and cinnamon ice cream is just as indulgent.

Fusion

2 Hopeton Street, Gourock, Inverclyde, PA19 1PG 01475 633998, fusionrestaurant.org.uk | Tue–Fri noon– 2pm, 5–9.30pm; Sat 5–9.30pm. Closed Sun/Mon. £11 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Despite its inauspicious location above a pub, Fusion is well worth making the effort to find. It’s no secret to the Gourock locals who regularly fill the place, meaning that a booking’s worthwhile if you are coming from further afield. The restaurant was previously a domestic flat, and it feels homely. Service is thoughtful, informal and, above all, enthusiastic about the food on offer. Quite rightly so, as it’s accomplished and assured. Panfried breast of pigeon is flavoursome and properly pink, while main course saddle of Argyll venison is given a delicious new taste dimension by being served alongside calf’s liver. Desserts keep up the standard with sticky toffee pudding elevated well above the average. A good-value early evening menu has starters including mushrooms stuffed with goat’s cheese and mains such as a tasty supreme of chicken with Lewis haggis or fillet of beef stroganoff – with no supplement.

The Grill at Dakota Eurocentral

Dakota Hotel, 1–3 Parklands Avenue, Motherwell, Central, ML1 4WG 01698 835444, dakotaeurocentral.co.uk | Mon– Sun noon–2.30pm, 6–10pm (Bar menu available all day). [Bar open: Mon–Sat 10am–1am; Sun 10am–midnight.] £14 (lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Dakota is a dark, mysterious looking building, more Gotham than Glasgow, that sits beside the M8 near Motherwell. The interiors too are dark and atmospheric with bold use of black and dark chocolate shades. It has an air of affordable quality about it and if Michelin gave stars for service, Dakota would have a couple. During the week the hotel’s packed with business travellers and at weekends the locals make full use of the above average bar and grill – booking ahead is strongly advised. The menu is a little unadventurous, but has a broad price range of mains, and is good value for money. To start, fritto misto is generous and well executed. Classic prawn cocktail has a good sauce covering smallish prawns. Steaks are a feature, and very good Aberdeen Angus fillet comes cooked as requested. Among desserts, cheesecake with peanut and honeycomb is rich, but lacks a strong cream cheese flavour.

TIPList SPECIAL DINING EXCURSIONS • Forth views at South Queensferry’s Boat House • The secret delights of Braidwoods by Dalry • More than just a name at Gullane’s Chez Roux • Star attraction of Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond • The Wee Restaurant in North Queensferry, Fife Chez Roux: inspired by its Edwardian country-house setting as well as Albert Roux’s guiding hand The List Eating & Drinking Guide 173

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list.co.uk

Outside the Cities Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond

De Vere Cameron House Hotel, by Balloch, G83 89Z, 01389 722504, martinwishartlochlomond.co.uk | Wed–Fri 6.30–10pm; Sat noon–2pm, 6.30–10pm; Sun noon–2.30pm, 7–10pm. Closed Mon/Tue. £25 (set lunch) / £65 (set dinner)

When you enter Michelin Star chef Martin Wishart’s restaurant at Cameron House you may feel aggrieved that there are few views of the bonny, bonny banks. But, in fact, the food is far prettier. A meal here is one to be savoured. From the tasting menu at £70 to the unbelievably good value lunch at £25 for three courses, there will be something that will stay with you long after the day is over. Beetroot macarons with horseradish are inspired, while the blood orange cheesecake made with organic Connage crowdie is exquisite. Staff are keen to tell you as much as you wish to know – where the meat was sourced, how the grapes were grown, or even the translation of the French cheese names. Although Wishart is not always on the premises, his top notch team under manager Miguel Rivero never let the experience fall anything short of magical. Do ask about the show-stoppers on the menu – there is always a flambé in there somewhere and diners will thank you for the spectacle.

The Sorn Inn

35 Main Street, Sorn, Ayrshire, KA5 6HU 01290 551305, sorninn.com | Tue–Fri noon–2pm, 6–9pm; Sat noon–9pm; Sun 12.30–8pm. Closed Mon. £13.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

CENTRAL SCOTLAND & FIFE The varied riches of Perthshire and central Scotland are, by and large, well served by transport links from Edinburgh and Glasgow, and an hour’s drive will bring you to the door of many worthwhile dining spots. Perthshire’s long-held renown as a region of fertile fields and rich farmland is embraced by chefs working there, while to the east the reputation of Fife’s food is very much in the ascendant, with restaurants forging links between field, coast and plate. Reviewers: Catriona Graham, Lynda Hamilton, Ian Hogg, Courtney Peyton, Anna Millar, Sandy Neil, David Pollock, Allan Radcliffe, Tracey Reilly, Keith Smith

The Apron Stage

5 King Street, Stanley, Perthshire, PH1 4ND, 01738 828888, apronstagerestaurant.co.uk | Wed–Thu & Sat 6.30–9.30pm; Fri noon–2pm, 6.30– 9.30pm. Closed Sun–Tue. £25 (dinner)

Over the years Sorn Inn has won many awards for its food and as a result expectations are elevated. In the rather plainly decorated restaurant starters include home-made aubergine gnocchi, the small dumplings beautifully flavoured by the aubergine and served with chick peas, black olive oil and piquello red peppers. Ham hock and foie gras terrine is also a dish to be reckoned with, actionpacked and full of tender chunks of ham. Mains include steak pie, a handful of pasta dishes, a supreme of chicken, pork belly and fish and chips. There are also steaks from the grill which can suffer a little from overcooking, leaving them a touch bland. Pan-fried skate cheeks are rich, served with crab and pak choi cous cous – an unusual, but tasty option. Desserts include mandarin custard tart, chocolate brownies and whisky cream butterscotch foam.

For unabashed charm there is little to beat the Apron Stage in the Perthshire village of Stanley. Tiny, decorated in fresh pastels, with the kitchen open to view, it exudes serenity. The tables are formally set with white table-cloths, but there is no stuffiness in the menu or the service. For starters, crab risotto is fragrant with dill and delicately cheesy, and goes surprisingly well with a slice of date bread. Baby spinach is combined in a salad with slivers of cucumber, tangy Blacksticks blue cheese and perfectly soft-boiled quail’s eggs. For fish-lovers, a bouillabaisse style casserole contrasts the differing textures and flavours of five seafoods, all in a rich broth and served with a side of plain boiled potatoes. Rare beef fillet is just that, and a very nice bit of beef it is too, with horseradish to add sharp bite to the accompanying potato cake. The pecan and maple pie is sweet and crumbly while cheeses include a melting dolcelatté and an exemplary brie.

Uplawmoor Hotel and Restaurant

Barley Bree Restaurant with Rooms

The welcome is warm at this hotel to the southwest of Glasgow, with a restaurant open at weekends while the main bar serves a smaller version of the à la carte all week. Food orders are taken in the bar where an impressive list of cocktails may well tempt; in a nice touch they’re served with root vegetable crisps. Flash fried king prawns are a great way to start, the ginger, spring onion and chilli sauce providing a pleasant kick, though the rice accompaniment tends to soak up some of the cooking oil. Mains include steaks, sole, salmon and venison as well as a hearty Uplawmoor steak pie served with a separate puff pastry lid. Beef stroganoff features tasty fillet, beautifully cooked in a paprika cream sauce. Cheesecake and sticky toffee pudding sit alongside meringues and profiteroles on the dessert list. Overall there’s enough here to mark it down as a good local restaurant with a good few menu highlights.

If you are looking for sophisticated cooking in the depths of rural Perthshire, try this restaurant with rooms. A cosy lounge area has, in season, a roaring log fire, while the bare wooden floors, chunky tables and harvesting tools decorating the walls give the spacious dining-room a casual air. The food prepared by chef Fabrice Bouteloup, however, is precise. Purple-fleshed vitelotte potatoes surround rabbit in a terrine, served with finely chopped piccalilli arranged on thin slices of pickled cucumber. Meltingly braised pork belly is paired with breadcrumbed pig cheek fried to crispness and set off by star anise jus. After this, Tête de moine, Dunsyre Blue and Bonnet are some of the cheeses served with oatcakes, while lemon posset topped with blueberries and intensely pear-flavoured ice-cream is a light and refreshing alternative.

Neilston Road, Uplawmoor, G78 4AF 01505 850565, uplawmoor.co.uk | Fri/Sat 6pm–9.30pm; Sun noon–9.30pm. £10 (lunch) / £21 (dinner)

6 Willoughby Street, Muthill, near Crieff, Perth and Kinross, PH5 2AB, 01764 681451, barleybree.com | Wed–Sat noon–2pm, 6–9pm. Sun noon–7.30pm. Closed Mon/Tue. £14 (lunch) / £26 (dinner)

Craig Millar @ 16 West End

16 West End, St Monans, Fife, KY10 2BX 01333 730327, 16westend.com | Wed–Sun 12.30–2pm, 6.30–9pm. Closed Mon/Tue. £18 (set lunch) / £35 (dinner)

The 2011 decoupling of the Seafood Restaurants in St Andrews and St Monans saw the latter undergo an extensive refurbishment and reopen as Craig Millar @ 16 West End. The eponymous chef, a high profile figure in these parts, has retained the restaurant’s popular pre-dinner drinks lounge, which has a pub-like feel, while opening up a new reception area and modifying the overall layout. Well-lit yet intimate, the restaurant has extensive windows giving it a conservatory-type atmosphere and views overlooking St Monans Harbour and the Firth of Forth. It offers a fine dining experience where presentation, quality ingredients and first rate service go hand in hand. With stalwart Seafood Restaurant front of house manager Nora Cerracher still at the helm, Millar not only specialises in seafood, but in the likes of guinea fowl and duck, which he teams with a variety of exciting ingredients and delicacies, such as pea jus and cauliflower and truffle puree.

Deans at Let’s Eat

77–79 Kinnoull Street, Perth, PH1 5EZ, 01738 643377, letseatperth.co.uk | Tue– Sat noon–2pm, 6.30–9.45pm. Closed Sun/Mon. £12 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The family team of head chef Willie Deans, his wife Margot, and sons Lee (the manager) and 17-year-old Jamie (already a talented chef), serve vibrant modern Scottish lunches and dinners, made from scratch using local, seasonal ingredients, artfully presented on the plate in creative flavour combinations. These include a starter of seared hand-dived Shetland scallops on top of a salad of hot smoked salmon flakes, capers, bacon and potatoes, trickled with a sweet orange syrup. A decorous main course of sole fillets wrapped around smooth pea puree and creamed fennel, piped swirls of saffron mash and a sea of mild curry cream, is skilfully executed. Amid a décor of warm red walls and coves of wine bottles, it’s a very pleasant experience.

Delivino

6 King Street, Crieff, Perthshire, PH7 3HA, 01764 655665, delivino.co.uk | April–October: Mon–Sun 9am–9pm; October–April Mon–Fri 9am–6pm; Sat/ Sun 9am–9pm. £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

This elegant, tasteful café, deli and restaurant full of light and families sharing good food and wine, feels metropolitan and Mediterranean. The deli, which sells continental cheeses, charcuterie and antipasti, also supplies the kitchen, where three chefs serve daily changing seasonal specials, and favourite pizzas, pastas, soups and salads. Owner Jamie Stewart, a wine critic and importer before he opened Delivino in 2006, champions the sound food philosophy of Spain, Italy and southern France: good ingredients, simply cooked to show them at their best. The pizza bears this out: the bubbled crust is thin and crispy, covered by sweet Italian tomatoes. The Amazing Grazing Platter of artichoke, olives, salami, taleggio and Italian ham provides a great overview of what’s on offer.

The Four Seasons Hotel

Lochside, St Fillans, Perthshire, PH6 2NF, 01764 685 333, thefourseasonshotel.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–2:30pm, 6pm–9pm. £12 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

This hotel by Loch Earn combines the

Meall Reamhar fine dining restaurant and the Tarken Room bistro for lighter lunches and suppers. The charming deco, inspired by owner Andrew Low’s travels, is a mish-mash of styles. Low’s personality shows in the menu and wine list too, and in the atmosphere, which is relaxing and friendly to families and dogs. Professional, friendly staff guide diners to a log fire for aperitifs and amuses bouches, advise wines for the next four courses, and lead you to a table set with canapés. The signature starter of Scrabster sea scallops, curried puy lentils, cauliflower velouté and baby herbs is outstanding. After a refreshing elderflower sorbet, the main course of tender slow-braised beef skirt and the earthy warmth of truffle mashed potato makes an extremely pleasant contrast and will leave you beaming with happiness – even before the dessert, coffee and petits fours, and bargain out-of-city prices.

inDulge

22 High Street, Auchterarder, Perthshire, PH3 1DF, 01764 660 033, indulge-now. co.uk | Mon–Sat 10am–4pm. Closed Sun. £10 (lunch)

InDulge sits on the ‘Lang Toon’ of Auchterarder’s 1.5 mile-long high street. The décor is light and welcoming with cream painted wood walls, leather booths and sanded, chunky tables, and smooth jazz on the radio. Friendly waiting staff recite classy coffees and teas and up to ten home-baked, lavishly decorated cakes, including plum cinnamon and coconut raspberry jam. The theme continues on the counter top, where ornate glass domes hold tiffin slices, raspberry brownies and biscuits. Savoury treats include rustic quiches, a meat loaf with Dunsyre Blue cheese, and a roasted butternut squash vegetable pâté. The highly original, quirky menu reflects a large measure of creativity in the kitchen – as do the daily changing blackboard specials of soup, bagels, burgers and other ‘bits & bobs’.

The Inn at Lathones

By Largoward, St Andrews, Fife, KY9 1JE 01334 840494, theinn.co.uk | Mon– Sun noon–9.30pm. £24 (dinner)

The Inn at Lathones is around four hundred years old; its age apparent in the stone-clad fireplaces, whitewashed ceilings and exposed roof beams on display. Alongside, you’ll find gig posters (the former stables now hosts live music) and sporting memorabilia, making for a quirky mix of styles. A range of food is on offer across the Sunday lunch, restaurant and bar menus. To start – citrus-cured salmon, followed by grilled line-caught bream with tasty brown shrimp and caper butter, while duck is cooked two ways with the breast roasted and accompanied by a duck croquette. Flavour combinations are well thought out, dishes are attractively presented and the staff are always happy to assist with food and drink choices. Desserts includes a comforting and lightly spiced caramelised rice pudding and a slightly meringue-like pistachio macaroon mille feuille.

The Inn at Kippen

Fore Road, Kippen, FK8 3DT 01786 870500, theinnatkippen.co.uk | Mon–Sun 12.30–9pm. £14 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

A cosy dining room and convivial environment make the Inn at Kippen well worth a detour. While the food verges towards the finer end of the scale, owner Gordon Wright makes a conscious effort not to get too carried away, keeping the atmosphere – and the prices – relaxed. Instead of changing wholesale, the menu tends to ebb and flow, indicative of availability and desirability, with the odd

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Outside the Cities more than 30 years, Jimmy and Amanda Graham have dedicated themselves to creating exuberant menus from whatever is local and best. When that demands raiding the family garden, their restaurant gets first dibs. The intimate venue feels more caring than crowded, the enjoyment evident among fellow diners establishing an immediate sense of ease. To start, slow-cooked caramelised pork cheek, encircled by tender beetroot and finely chopped kale, is earthy sweet. Fillets of local seafish bathe in golden Catalan Sugret sauce, ground almonds providing richness without the heaviness of cream. Puddings tempt – the trio of chocolate puddings enable pannacotta, juxtaposed with passion fruit sauce and mango sorbet, to appear a relatively virtuous alternative.

The Peat Inn

Peat Inn, by St Andrews, Fife, KY15 5LH 01334 840206, thepeatinn.co.uk | Tue–Sat 12.30–1.30pm, 7–9pm. Closed Sun/Mon. £19 (set lunch) / £39 (dinner)

the property’s home-grown herbs and idyllic garden stream. For visitors to St Andrews, it’s worth bearing in mind that the Kingarroch team also now look after the café-restaurant at the Byre Theatre.

The Peat Inn simply exudes an air of calmness and competence. Decorated in muted shades of brown and cream, the dining area divides into several small spaces ensuring an intimate and uncluttered feel. Offering lunch, tasting, à la carte and daily menus, this is accomplished cooking, drawing on classical French techniques and using quality local ingredients. Winter salad with beetroot, soft cheese, walnut brittle and pomegranate is a masterclass in presentation skills and the use of contrasting flavours and textures while quail tortellini with black pudding and truffle velouté is richly satisfying. Mains include pork cooked three ways and dressed with a sage and calvados sauce or a meltingly tender loin of venison cooked sous-vide. Make sure you leave room for desserts. Breaking open a hot mango and passion fruit soufflé is like cutting through billowy clouds while the pavé of salted chocolate with coffee mousse and blood orange sorbet is intense enough to satisfy the most ardent chocoholic.

No 1 The Bank

Room with a View

The 15-room hotel boasts a lovely location overlooking the South Inch with views of Kinnoull Hill, while its proximity to the railway station makes it handy for visitors arriving by train to the UK’s newest city. The hotel’s head chef is Graeme Pallister, awardwinning patron of nearby 63 Tay Street. Menus at the Parklands reflect Pallister’s mantra of ‘local, honest, simple’ with ingredients sourced from local suppliers such as veteran seafood specialist George Campbell and Sons. Hotel bistro No 1 The Bank serves lunch and dinner in a bright, conservatory-style dining room with a wide-ranging menu that showcases Pallister’s command of classic British dishes enlivened with flavoursome condiments and dressings. Fine dining is also on offer at 63@Parklands, while a new menu of light bites and bar meals can be perused on the pleasant terrace area at the front of the hotel.

Nestled at the bottom of a steep, rocky slope in the pretty coastal village of Aberdour, the Room with a View restaurant in the Forth View Hotel has something of the home away from home about it. Wide, high windows around two of the four walls offering a stunning outlook beyond the village’s craggy Hawkcraig point. Chef Tim Robson’s menu reflects the best catches of the day, each with its own unique twist. An innovative hamper-style starter allows you to indulge in a handsome sampling of the starter menu, a creamy, wonderfully seasoned cauliflower soup with curried shrimp dumpling and a subtly flavoured crab and ginger fishcake proving the highlights. For mains, a trio of halibut with a butternut squash puree showcases Robson’s creative flair, as three succulent pieces arrive separately poached, breadcrumbed and wrapped in filo pastry.

The Wee Restaurant: one of Fife’s finest dining locations

regulars’ favourite (like a twice-baked parmesan soufflé) surviving long-term. Potted crab is zesty and fresh, the delicate flesh enlivened but not overpowered with a dash of citrus tang – a fine example of the kitchen’s ability to marry bold flavours without letting any dominate a dish to its detriment. Nowhere is that skill more evident than a fabulous spiced pork loin, served with puy lentil and garlic sausage cassoulet. A hint of star anise imparts subtle fragrance, moderated by the earthy pulses and velvety polenta. For dessert, lemon posset is sharp and creamy, offset by almond shortbread and sweet stewed rhubarb.

The Kingarroch Inn

5 Main Street, Craigrothie, Fife, KY15 5QA 01334 828237, kingarrochinn.co.uk | Summer: Tue–Fri noon–3pm, 5.30–9pm; Sat noon–9pm; Sun noon–9pm. £11.95 (set lunch) / £19.50 (dinner)

Never judge a book by its cover. This seemingly simple whitewashed cottage, sat precariously on the corner of a busy Fife road, might seem a bit dated, yet its subterranean entrance could well be described as a gateway to food heaven. Fresh, local and seasonal produce, cooked to perfection and combined with a friendly, down-to-earth atmosphere are what make this modest restaurant so appealing. Spiced mushrooms, haggis fritters, venison casserole and medallions of tender beef are just a few offerings from the Hughes brothers, who took over the restaurant from the Smith family in 2010. Locally caught fish are also a mainstay of their menu, of which cured sea bass and East Neuk haddock often top the bill. And although the restaurant spans three floors, perhaps the best dining experience to be had in the summer months is in the beer garden overlooking

The Parklands Hotel, 2 St Leonard’s Bank, Perth, PH2 8EB 01738 622451, theparklandshotel.com | Mon–Sun noon–2pm; 6–9pm. £22 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Ostlers Close

25 Bonnygate, Cupar, Fife, KY15 4BU 01334 655574, ostlersclose.co.uk | Tue–Fri 7–9.30pm; Sat 12.15–1.30pm, 7–9.30pm. Closed Sun/Mon. £20 (lunch) / £32 (dinner)

Care, creativity and gratification are words that come to mind when considering a meal at Ostlers Close. For

Forth View Hotel, Aberdour, Fife, KY3 0TZ 01383 860402, roomwithaviewrestaurant.co.uk | Wed–Sat noon–2pm, 6–8.30pm; Sun noon–2pm. Closed Mon/Tue. £18 (lunch) / £26 (dinner)

The Ship Inn

The Toft, Elie, Fife, KY9 1DT 01333 330246, ship-elie.com | Mon–Thu noon– 2.30pm, 6–9pm; Fri/Sat noon–2.30pm, 6–9.30pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 6–9pm. £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Overlooking Elie’s sandy bay, the Ship Inn offers well-prepared, comforting fare in a relaxed and sociable setting.

Décor and furniture are reassuringly informal with photographs of old Elie and maritime influenced artwork throughout. Flaky fresh haddock comes in crispy light beer batter and generously filled seafood pie has a rich, cheesy crumb topping. Chalkboard specials bring home-made scotch eggs and Guinness-rich steak pie. The menu brochure highlights yearround events with beer garden barbecues supporting beach cricket and a summer beach hut dispensing coffees and Cream o’ Galloway ice cream.

63 Tay Street Restaurant

63 Tay Street, Perth, PH2 8NN 01738 441451, 63taystreet.co.uk | Tue–Sat noon–2pm, 6.30–9.30pm. Closed Sun/ Mon. £17.45 (set lunch) / £33.95 (set dinner)

Perth’s dining scene has really been in the ascendancy in recent years with Graeme Pallister, chef patron at 63 Tay Street, at the forefront of the renaissance. Décor is as refined and understated as the solid stone building. His declared philosophy is ‘local, honest and simple’, but that slightly undersells Pallister. His sourcing is indeed impressively local and honest with Perthshire berries and mushrooms from Aviemore, but his food is more than simple. Oxtail and Stornoway black pudding comes laced with a duck egg and horseradish while the standout is sautéed local beef rib with crumbed oxtail, horseradish and potato gratin. The five-course dinner menu showcases his culinary skills, while the grill menu offers Aberdeen Angus fillet and rib-eye.

The Wee Restaurant

17 Main Street, North Queensferry, Fife, KY11 1JG 01383 616263, theweerestaurant.co.uk | Tue–Sun noon– 2pm, 6.30–9pm. £16.25 (set lunch) / £26 (set dinner)

Tucked beneath the bold, red legs of the imposing Forth Rail Bridge, the Wee Restaurant feels a particularly cosy retreat from the busy world beyond. Whitewashed walls, featuring good local artwork and warmed by candlelight further help to unfurrow even the most stressed out brow, while contemplating the succinct but engaging menu. Owner/ chef Craig Wood committed to local sourcing using the best of Scotland’s larder long before it became the thing to do and this remains clear today. Homecured salmon, as well as mussels, in a very rich parmesan sauce, dappled with pine nuts and bacon, hail from Shetland, drawing loyal customers back. Smoked Strathspey pork belly even has its crispy ears alongside the creamy celeriac mash, while a substantial aged rib eye steak hasn’t travelled far from farm to table. For afters, nutty, buttery baked pecan tart can prove too hard to resist.

TIPList FOR DINNER, BED & BREAKFAST • Barley Bree Restaurant with Rooms, near Crieff • Aberlady’s relaxing Duck’s at Kilspindie House • The cosy comforts of the Inn at Kippen • Top-end hospitality at Fife’s Peat Inn • South Queensferry’s Samphire Seafood Bar The List Eating & Drinking Guide 175

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MAP 1 • NEW TOWN

Edinburgh

CITY CABS LTD EDINBURGH’S PREMIER TAXI FLEET A fast, efﬁcient, reliable and safe taxi service - Book online or call 0131 228 1211

MAP 1 NEW TOWN Edinburgh A 1

1 2

3 5 8

6 7

14 13 12 11

10 15

16 17

18 19 20 33

135 23 26 25 24

30 29

31 34

28 36 40 41 42

119 38

120

39 43 98

118

116 117 115

100 99 86

61 60

59 54 55

S W EE ES MA T P EN 4 D

53 52

101 102

94 103

105

104

67 65

56 57

113

79 80 90 85 95 78 81 84 89 77 83 93 76 82 91 75 74 72 73 68

87 88

70 69

2 MAP SEE TOWN OLD

176 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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MAP 1 • NEW TOWN

Edinburgh

CITY CABS IPHONE APP BOOK AND TRACK YOUR TAXI THROUGH GPS Go to www.citycabs.co.uk for more info or to download

MAP INDEX

155

153

121 123 125 126 an Alb

152 151

124 127 128

eet y Str

130 131 132 133 137 138

148 147

144 141 143 142

139

140

114

111 112

108 106 107

109

110

GLASGOW

MAP 2 MAP 3 MAP 4 MAP 5

MAP 6 MAP 7 MAP 8 MAP 9

Old Town Southside West End Leith

City Centre Merchant City & East End Southside West End

154

122

EDINBURGH

150 149 146

1 2 3 5 6 7 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78

The Orchard Loon Fung Earthy Canonmills Circle Café Moo Cafeteria Coffee Angel New Town Deli Russian Passion Pierre Victoire Henri of Edinburgh Cuckoo’s Bakery Zen Kitchen L’Alba D’Oro/Anima New Town Deli Hectors Maxi’s Patisserie Madeleine Buffalo Grill Avoca Bar & Grill Sabor Criollo Rafael’s Lancers Brasserie Hamiltons Bar and Kitchen Bell’s Diner Purslane Sprio The Blue Parrot Cantina Sing Thai The Saint The Stockbridge Restaurant Karen’s Unicorn Ronde Bicycle Outfitters Italian Kitchen The Atholl Dining Room The Spice Pavilion Kweilin Shilla Glass & Thompson Leo’s Beanery Ruan Siam Appetite Direct Bon Papillon A Room in the Town Iglu Kay’s Bar Ryan’s Bar Whighams Wine Cellars Wildfire Restaurant and Grill Miro’s Cantina Mexicana Oishii Turkish Kitchen The Black Cat Gourmet Burger Kitchen Gusto Browns Bar and Brasserie Tigerlily Strada The Living Room Tonic The Honours Librizzi Time 4 Thai Centotre Oloroso Indian Lounge Calistoga Café Andaluz Element Amicus Apple Mussel Inn Jamie’s Italian The New York Steam Packet Eteaket Queen’s Arms Café Marlayne Rick’s Wok and Wine

28 57 36 47 51 47 46 86 67 50 48 101 98 46 25 51 52 80 19 86 98 72 25 80 93 53 79 103 30 95 56 53 77 88 74 57 60 50 51 103 46 16 87 91 27 30 32 96 80 60 86 20 81 77 35 42 78 39 31 38 78 104 76 93 70 81 97 24 18 63 78 82 49 29 64 41 58

79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 88 89 90 91 93 94 95 96 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 113 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 126 127 128 130 131 132 135 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155

La P’tite Folie Café St Honoré The Bon Vivant Tex Mex II Fishers in the City Dusit Iris The Dining Room The Dogs Amore Dogs Underdogs Henderson’s Bistro Henderson’s Vegetarian Restaurant Wellington Coffee Nargile Amarone Yes Sushi 99 Hanover Street Café Portrait Urban Angel Bramble Tempus Hard Rock Café The Dome Grill Room The Abbotsford Above Abbotsford Saigon Saigon Restaurant Café Royal Oyster Bar The Voodoo Rooms Café Royal Circle Bar The Guildford Arms Hong Fu Noodle Elliot’s Restaurant Howies at Waterloo Forth Floor Brasserie Forth Floor Restaurant Yo! Sushi Valvona & Crolla Vincaffè Zest 9 Cellars Thali The Stand The Magnum Restaurant & Bar Karen’s Unicorn Stac Polly (Dublin Street) Café Nom de Plume Locanda de Gusti L’escargot Bleu Olive Branch Bistro Broughton Delicatessen Blue Moon Café Hamburger Heaven Asti Artisan Roast Smoke Stack The French Fancies Urban Angel Treacle Bar and Kitchen The Basement Bar and Restaurant The Street Steak Restaurant Mark Greenaway at No 12 Picardy Place Giuliano’s Al Fresco The Gardener’s Cottage Khushi’s Café Marlayne Thai Pod Classic’s Valvona & Crolla Caffè Bar Joseph Pearce’s Frankfurter Eck Embo Elbow

67 88 20 80 62 102 38 89 35 76 32 105 105 54 85 76 61 28 16 43 21 42 82 35 18 87 57 62 43 22 25 56 36 91 36 90 61 79 75 73 18 92 56 95 45 78 65 40 45 34 81 76 44 82 50 43 31 20 31 95 93 77 75 90 71 64 100 69 54 27 84 49 24

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 177

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MAP 2 • OLD TOWN

Edinburgh

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MAP 2 OLD TOWN Edinburgh

1 1 MAPWN E E S TO NEW

5 6

10 11 12 13

101102 103

110 115 112 111 116 109 104 108

99 100

93 98

15 30

27 28

29 31

34 35

52 54

105

78 92 91

89 90 87 86

88 84 85 80

62 65 64 63 66

107 106

Victoria

45 49

18 19

St. 38 40 39 33 41 44 43 50 51

77 82 67

73 76

75 68 74 69 70 72

71 178 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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MAP 2 • OLD TOWN

Edinburgh

CITY CABS IPHONE APP BOOK AND TRACK YOUR TAXI THROUGH GPS Go to www.citycabs.co.uk for more info or to download

MAP INDEX

GLASGOW

MAP 1 MAP 3 MAP 4 MAP 5

MAP 6 MAP 7 MAP 8 MAP 9

New Town Southside West End Leith

City Centre Merchant City & East End Southside West End

G 1 2 3 3 4 5

113

EDINBURGH

114

5 6 7 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 18 19 20 21 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 33 34 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 49 50 51 52 53 54 57 59 60 61

Cranston’s Restaurant Number One The Balmoral Bar Palm Court Hadrian’s Brasserie The Scottish Café and Restaurant The Scottish Café The Fruitmarket Gallery Café City Art Centre Café Ecco Vino Gurkha Café Chang Thai Restaurant Viva Mexico Café Marina North Bridge Brasserie The Baked Potato Shop Creelers Le Sept City Café BrewDog Edinburgh Angels With Bagpipes St Giles’ Cathedral Café Caffe Espresso Porto & Fi on the Mound Amber Restaurant The Witchery by the Castle Cafe Hub Whiski Rooms Hanam’s Thai Orchid Bar Missoni Cucina Ondine Howies (Victoria Street) The Grain Store Oink Mariachi Maison Bleue The Bow Bar Café Truva Hula Juice Bar and Gallery The Mussel and Steak Bar Petit Paris Mamma’s American Pizza Company Dragonfly Agua Under the Stairs Divino Enoteca Global Deli Tang’s The Outsider Villager Museum Brasserie Tower Restaurant Namaste Kathmandu

89 92 19 52 37 94 18 17 16 24 84 101 80 45 40 104 62 68 23 21 88 53 46 41 87 96 45 96 84 104 19 77 63 90 90 46 80 66 21 47 51 63 67 82 23 33 31 23 46 60 40 32 40 95 73

62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 88 89 91 92 93 94 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116

Mums Great Comfort Food Union of Genius Hotel du Vin Koyama Tupiniquim Nawroz Nile Valley Buffalo Grill Pink Olive Greenmantle The Pear Tree House 10 to 10 In Delhi Red Box Noodle Bar Home Bistro The Original Mosque Kitchen and Café The Mosque Kitchen Yocoko Bonsai Bar Bistro Ten Hill Place Dovecot Café by Stag Espresso Beirut Kebab Mahal Brass Monkey Suruchi Café Lucia Spoon Café Bistro B’est Black Medicine Coffee Company Saffrani The Royal Oak Mother India’s Café The Mitre Bar 50 Edinburgh Larder Itchycoo Bar & Kitchen Whiski Monteiths The Storytelling Café La Garrigue Barioja Iggs Circus The Holyrood 9A David Bann Stac Polly Bistro Empires The White Horse Wedgwood the Restaurant Pancho Villa’s The Canon’s Gait The Kilderkin Foodies at Holyrood Café Truva ArtCafe Morita

40 46 38 59 86 86 86 80 40 25 29 74 57 38 73 72 61 58 42 17 82 71 21 74 16 41 64 44 74 30 73 28 19 48 39 32 39 18 65 97 98 83 27 104 95 84 32 95 80 22 27 49 47 58

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 179

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MAP 3 • SOUTHSIDE

Edinburgh

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MAP 3 SOUTHSIDE Edinburgh

Lo ch rin Terr

4 5

6 7

3 38

8 9 11 12 14 15 16

18 19

20 17

22 36

31 27

24 25

28 30

33 34

180 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

E&DG12-MapsDRLM.indd 180

17/04/2012 23:56

MAP 3 • SOUTHSIDE

Edinburgh

CITY CABS IPHONE APP BOOK AND TRACK YOUR TAXI THROUGH GPS Go to www.citycabs.co.uk for more info or to download

MAP INDEX

EDINBURGH

GLASGOW

MAP 1 MAP 2 MAP 4 MAP 5

MAP 6 MAP 7 MAP 8 MAP 9

New Town Old Town West End Leith

2 3 4

49 51

50 52 53

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33

5 6 7 8 9 11 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

56 63

34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54

66 67

55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 65 66 67 68 69 70

City Centre Merchant City & East End Southside West End

Indaba My Big Fat Greek Kitchen Mezbaan South Indian Restaurant The Cloisters El Quijote No 1 Sushi Bar Passorn La Bagatelle Hot Hot Chinese Iman’s Absolute Thai Leven’s The Treehouse Katie’s Diner Henricks Bar The Apartment Bistro Black Medicine Coffee Company Thai Lemongrass Bisque Bar & Brasserie The Chocolate Tree Artisan Roast Café Grande La Barantine Bollywood: The Coffee Box Montpeliers Bar and Brasserie Ristorante Ferrari Falko (Konditormeister) The Tattie Shop Bia Bistrot Loopy Lorna’s Tea House @ Churchill Theatre Rocket Café Toast Earl of Marchmont Sweet Melindas Peter’s Yard El Bar 56 North Kim’s Korean Meals Ann Purna The Auld Hoose Kalpna The Engine Shed The Meadow Bar Kampong Ah Lee Malaysian Delight Blonde Anteaques Brazilian Sensation Tea at 94 Rice Terraces Karen Wong’s Chinese Restaurant The Newington Traditional Fish Bar Elaine’s Cuppa Cake Café Cassis Los Argentinos Hanedan Hewat’s Restaurant Metropole Celadon Tanjore Voujon Hellers Kitchen The Old Bell Restaurant The Old Bell Earthy Market Café Kwok Brasserie Black Medicine Coffee Company The Pastures The Institute

84 85 72 23 97 60 102 64 56 69 101 102 54 82 27 33 44 103 34 47 44 35 44 69 39 78 49 46 33 18 53 43 24 63 52 97 24 59 68 19 71 105 28 59 34 44 82 53 60 56 99 49 35 85 84 90 51 101 74 75 37 92 28 48 57 44 52 18

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 181

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MAP 4 • WEST END

Edinburgh

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MAP 4 WEST END Edinburgh 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Restaurant at the Bonham La P’tite Folie Sygn The WestRoom Indigo Yard Bar Roma Le Bistrot de l’Institut francais d’Ecosse L’escargot Blanc New Edinburgh Rendezvous Ryan’s Cellar Restaurant

93 67 31 32 27 76

11 13 14 15 15 16 16 17 18 19 20

64 65 57 94

Wannaburger Brass & Copper Coffee The Mulroy A Room in the West End Teuchters Kyloe Restaurant & Grill The Rutland Bar Ghillie Dhu The Pompadour Henderson’s @ St John’s Kasturi

82 44 67 87 31 92 30 25 93 105 71

The Indian Cavalry Club 70 China Town 55 Santo’s Bistro 78 Bluerapa Thai 101 Le Marché Français 66 Ignite 69 Chop Chop 55 Papoli 86 Café Milk 45 McKirdy’s Steakhouse 92 Pho Vietnam House 60 Hay Sushi 58 The Verandah Tandoori 75 Sushiya 60 Kampung Ali Malaysian Delight 59 Cuthberts Coffee & Bistro 48 Good Seed Bistro 36 First Coast 36 Traverse Bar Café 18 Castle Terrace 88

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 41 42

Zucca One Square Filmhouse Café Bar Spirit of Thai Jasmine Chinese Restaurant Kanpai Kama Sutra Illegal Jack’s Izzi Lebowskis Timberyard The Blue Blazer Bread Street Brasserie Gandhi’s Loudon’s Café & Bakery Two Thin Laddies Wagamama Red Squirrel

43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60

79 40 17 103 56 59 71 79 58 28 95 20 34 69 51 54 61 29

2 3 5

4 8

6 9

10 11 16

59 60 21 41 22

25 26 32 33 34

23 44

24 27 28

43 46

49 50 51

53 54

55 56

58 36 57

5 182 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

E&DG12-MapsDRLM.indd 182

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MAP 5 • LEITH

Edinburgh

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MAP INDEX

MAP 5 LEITH Edinburgh 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 11

Britannia Spice Mya La Garrigue Bistro Bond No. 9 International Starters The Kitchin Chop Chop Mithas Shebeen A Room in Leith Teuchters Landing

69 102 66 20 84 91 55 72 30 87 31

Malmaison Brasserie Fishers Bistro The Shore Bar & Restaurant The Ship on the Shore Cruz Bar and Restaurant Guchhi Indian Seafood and Bar Diner 7 Giuliano’s on the Shore Café Domenico The Roseleaf The Water of Leith Café Bistro

12 13 14 15 16 18 19 20 21 22 23

39 62 41 63 23 69 81 77 76 29 54

24 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33

EDINBURGH

GLASGOW

MAP 1 New Town MAP 2 Old Town MAP 3 Southside

MAP 6 MAP 7 MAP 8 MAP 9

The King’s Wark iso-bar Nobles Bar Rocksalt Café Deli Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant Restaurant Martin Wishart Mimi’s Bakehouse Tapa Barra y Restaurante Sofi’s

27 27 28 53 84 67 51 98 30

34 35 36 37 37 37 38 39 40

City Centre Merchant City & East End Southside West End

E:S:I - Englishman, Scotsman and an Irishman 36 Suruchi Too 74 Café Truva 47 Café Fish 62 Golden Bridge 55 Leith Lynx 39 Plumed Horse 93 Sonar Gao 100 La Cerise 47

1 2 2 12 34

10 9 56 78

18 19 22

20 24

23 30 31

36 33

26 27 29

Queen Char lotte St

34 35

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 183

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MAP 6 • CITY CENTRE

Glasgow

MAP 6 CITY CENTRE Glasgow A 1

24 5 1

3 112

KING'S THEATRE

23 110

11 12 10 111

28 14 15 17

25 21

4 18 19

29 32

34 36 38

35 37

43 42

45 44

48 50

108

57 113

58 107 59 60 105 61

106

62 63

91 90

86 89

114 64 115 65 104 66

102 88 82

103

84 93

80 79

70 87

99 98

York Street

101

73 75 74 76

109

7 89

6 184 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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MAP 6 • CITY CENTRE

Glasgow

MAP INDEX 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 14 15 16 17 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60

EDINBURGH

GLASGOW

MAP 1 MAP 2 MAP 3 MAP 4 MAP 5

MAP 7 Merchant City & East End MAP 8 Southside MAP 9 West End

New Town Old Town Southside West End Leith

Nanakusa Nice’n’Sleazy Variety Bar Baby Grand The Art School Slumdog Bar & Kitchen Kama Sutra Torres Bier Hof Rawalpindi Tandoori Saramago Café Bar Bagel Mania Café Antipasti Alla Turca Paperinos (Sauchiehall) Kitsch Inn The Tiki Bar The Bath Street Pony Slouch Moskito Taste Bunker The Wee Curry Shop Four Seasons Café Cosmo The Pipers’ Tryst Café Hula Dragon-i Di Maggio’s Theatreland La Bonne Auberge Thai Lemongrass Molly Malones Lucky 7 Canteen Two Fat Ladies in the City The Butterfly and the Pig The Tearoom @ The Butterfly and the Pig Where the Monkey Sleeps Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or Restaurant at Blythswood Square Malmaison King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut Red Onion Bar Bloc+ Fratelli Sarti Kuta The Universal China Blue Dino Ferrari The Green Room Amalfi Pizzeria O Sole Mio Rumours Kopitiam Verona Amber Regent Assam’s Opium Osteria Piero Gamba Pulcinella Mussel Inn The Living Room

142 120 122 123 112 151 149 168 114 151 171 134 153 160 156 142 121 113 121 120 170 115 152 140 110 111 133 140 154 145 143 120 127 145 116 139 140 146 164 146 118 128 114 155 118 122 140 154 110 152 156 142 158 140 147 142 156 144 157 144 127

61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 77 77 77 77 77 77 78 79 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115

Anatolia Chargrill Laurie’s Stereo Fratelli Sarti Charcoals Paperinos @ 78 Amarone Windows Restaurant Elià La Vita Café Andaluz Urban Bar & Brasserie Di Maggio’s The Grill Room at the Square Rogano The Chippy Doon The Lane Barça Tapas and Cava Bar Buzzy’s Restaurant and Bar Cranachan Darcy’s Fifi and Ally The Restaurant Bar & Grill Tinderbox Bar Soba Bar Ten Bier Halle Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen Tempus Bar and Restaurant The Calabash Restaurant Ad Lib The Grill on the Corner Pinto Mexican Kitchen Carluccio’s The Admiral Limelight Bar and Grill Viva Brazil Tropeiro Piccolo Mondo Glasgow La Lanterna The Arches Café Bar & Restaurant Yo! Sushi Sloans Ichiban Japanese Noodle Café MacSorley’s Ho Wong Vespbar Pesto Vroni’s Wine & Champagne Bar Martha’s Blue Dog Le Bistro Beaumartin The Pot Still Banana Leaf Jackson’s Bar Southern Spice Ristorante Teatro Cafe Wander Horton’s Bar & Kitchen Wagamama

160 137 171 155 148 156 152 167 161 158 168 130 154 164 144 169 168 159 135 117 135 129 139 142 113 114 170 130 161 159 126 159 153 112 127 162 162 157 155 110 143 121 142 120 140 122 157 122 137 114 145 121 141 118 151 157 133 118 143

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 185

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MAP 7 • MERCHANT CITY & EAST END

Glasgow

MAP 7 MERCHANT CITY & EAST END

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

Jamie’s Italian The Corinthian Club Mediterraneo Fressh Tinderbox Stewart’s Victorian Tea Rooms Peckham’s Rab Ha’s Citation Cranberry’s Brutti Ma Buoni Berits & Brown Dakhin

MAP INDEX

Glasgow

155 125 156 136 139 139 138 164 124 135 123 132 148

A 1

14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 24 25 25

Bar 91 City Merchant KoolBa Merchant Chippie The Italian Kitchen Ingram Wynd Amore Sapporo Teppanyaki Ad Lib The Italian Caffè Gandolfi Fish to Go Gandolfi Fish Bar Gandolfi Café Gandolfi

112 163 150 169 155 164 152 142 159 155 169 144 112 124

30 31 32 33 34 35

MAP 6 City Centre MAP 8 Southside MAP 9 West End

New Town Old Town Southside West End Leith

162 114 154 128 158 148 161 151 126 151 147 164 160

GLASGOW

MAP 1 MAP 2 MAP 3 MAP 4 MAP 5

Arisaig Boudoir Wine Bar Fanelli’s Metropolitan Pancho Villa’s The Dhabba Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant Thali Guy’s Restaurant & Bar Urban Pind Café India Maggie May’s Boteco do Brasil

26 26 26 26 27 28 29

EDINBURGH

36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47

Rose and Grants Café Cossachok Tron Theatre Trans-Europe Café The 13th Note Café/Bar Mono Café Source Carrot Top’s Café The Libertine Arta Babbity Bowster Browns Bar & Brasserie

139 160 111 139 171 171 163 134 119 167 112 123

5 3

6 7

8 9

16 15 11 14 10 13 12

23 24 25 45 44

20 22

29 31 32 35 33 37

34 38

39 40

41 43 42

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MAP 8 • SOUTHSIDE

Glasgow

MAP 8 SOUTHSIDE Glasgow A

12 3

6 5 7 8

11 9 10

3 15 14 16

17 18 19

21 28 22

5 27

6 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

iKafe La Tea Doh Mise en Place Moyra Jane’s The New Pakistani Café Kebabish Grill Cookie

24 23

136 134 128 137 151 149 125

8 9 10 11 12 13 14

The Bungo Bar & Kitchen Go Slow Café The Upper House Tapa Coffeehouse Gusto & Relish Mulberry Street Bar Di Maggio’s

124 136 170 139 136 120 154

15 16 17 18 19 20 21

Brooklyn Café The Waverley Tea Room 1901 Deli Biscuit Nachos Ketchup Balbir’s Saffron Lounge

132 122 134 132 158 159 147

22 23 24 25 26 27 28

Bellini The Greek Golden Kebab Battlefield Rest Tinto Tapas Bar Brown Sugar Church on the Hill eat café

153 161 152 168 132 116 135

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MAP 9 • WEST END

Glasgow 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

MAP 9 WESTE ND Glasgow

10 11

A 1

Epicures of Hyndland Jelly Hill Cafe/Bar Cottier’s Delizique Cafezique Peter’s West End The Rio Café Three Judges Ichiban Japanese Noodle Café Big Mouth Coffee Bar and Café Bruadar

49 45

48 47

51 52

126 136 125 125 124 128 138 121 142 132 115

E 53

23 2

40 39

38 36

37 34 28

42 43

35 32 33 31 30 29

27 26 25 24

4 5 22 6 7

21 19 9

20 16 1314 15

123

Old Dum barto n Ro ad

135

St ay or M nt ge Re 121

131

122 120

119 132 118 115 133 134 117 116 114 113 110 111 1

112

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MAP 9 • WEST END

Glasgow 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

The Two Figs Rasoi Indian Kitchen Tribeca Two Fat Ladies Balbir’s Tony Macaroni No. Sixteen The Wee Curry Shop Rice and Noodle The Common Rooms Home Wok Cup Chow

122 151 140 145 147 157 164 152 170 116 169 135 140

Bar Soba Kember & Jones Fine Food Emporium Tinderbox La Vita Spuntini Brel Ketchup The Grosvenor Café The Brasserie at the Chip Ubiquitous Chip The Wee Curry Shop Nardini’s Masala Twist

25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 32 33 34 35

141 136 139 158 115 159 117 123 167 152 138 150

Ashoka Ashton Lane Paperino’s (Byres) Curlers Rest Stravaigin 2 The Bothy Di Maggio’s Avenue G Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen Café Andaluz La Vallée Blanche Hillhead Bookclub Booly Mardy’s

36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47

146 156 116 130 163 154 131 170 168 146 118 114

56 57 59 60 61 63 58

72 124 125 71 64

65 66 68

76 77 78

79 126 80

84 127

81 82 83

n de Terr L Woodsi

Road Carlyle

104 1

105 103 109 102 106 108 107 100 130 99 97 101

98 96

88 89 90

129

128

48 48 49 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 63 64 65 66 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 87 88 89 90 91 92 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135

Heart Buchanan Heart Buchanan Bo’Vine Meats and Wines Bobar The Brasserie at Òran Mór Cail Bruich Naked Soup Persia Café Pop The Belle Wudon The Flavour Co Roots and Fruits Il Cappuccino Alba La Parmigiana The Big Blue Crabby Macs Seafood Café Tchai-Ovna House of Tea Stravaigin Stravaigin Café Bar The Left Bank Artisan Roast Offshore The Doublet Sonny & Vito’s The Lansdowne Bar & Kitchen Bar Gambrino Café Cherubini Gambrino The Captain’s Rest The Roxy 171 DRAM! Chillies West End Barolo Grill Torna Sorrento Crêpe à Croissant Balti Club The Drake Asia Style Mimi’s Kitchen Grassroots Organic Café Salma Café Salma Black Sparrow Chinaski’s Koh-i-Noor Bocadillo Akbar’s An Clachan Arcaffe Lebowskis The Finnieston The Pour House Piece Fanny Trollopes The Hidden Lane Tearoom Mother India The Sisters Kelvingrove Konaki Greek Taverna Bukharah Ivy Crabshakk Athena Greek Taverna Shilla Lamora Bon Appétit The 78 The Goat & Grill Green Chilli Café The Butchershop Bar & Grill Ashoka West End Firebird The Den at Dining In with Mother India Mother India’s Café The Little Café Banana Leaf The Pelican Café KG Café The Bay Tree Café [Another] Piece The Halt Bar Cafe Darna No 1 Chocolate Factory Punjabi Charing Cross The Ben Nevis Smoak Cushion & Cake Dukes Bar Wau Cafe BrewDog Glasgow

169 136 163 114 163 163 138 162 133 113 143 136 138 134 131 156 153 143 171 167 130 127 131 138 117 139 119 112 133 155 116 121 117 148 152 157 134 169 125 140 137 169 147 161 114 116 149 132 146 131 152 119 117 121 138 126 110 150 167 162 147 118 144 160 143 155 169 171 117 148 124 146 126 148 150 137 147 128 110 132 134 118 147 138 151 113 134 135 117 143 115

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INDEX

Index

Number One (2: C2, 2) One Devonshire Gardens see Bistro at One Devonshire Gardens One Square (4: D3, 44) No 1 Chocolate Factory (9: I5, 128) No 1 The Bank No 1 Sushi Bar (3: B1, 7) Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery (9: G6, off) Two Fat Ladies in the City (6: C2, 34) Two Fat Ladies (9: C3, 15) The Two Figs (9: B3, 12) Two Thin Laddies (4: E4, 58) Three Judges (9: B3, 8) Forth Floor Brasserie (1: E5, 113) Forth Floor Restaurant (1: E5, 113) The Four Seasons Hotel Four Seasons (6: C1, 24) 9 Cellars Thali (1: E4, 116) Ten Hill Place (2: E4, 80) 10 to 10 In Delhi (2: E5, 73) The 13th Note Café/Bar (7: C3, 40) No. Sixteen (9: C3, 18) 63 Tay Street Restaurant The 78 (9: E6, 112) 99 Hanover Street (1: D5, 96) 1901 Deli (8: A4, 17) 21212 (1: H4, off) A Room in Leith (5: C3, 11) A Room in the Town (1: C4, 44) A Room in the West End (4: B2, 15) The Abbotsford (1: E5, 104) Above Abbotsford (1: E5, 104) Absolute Thai (3: C1, 14) Ad Lib (6: C4, 85) Ad Lib (7: D1, 22) The Admiral (6: B4, 89) Agua (2: B4, 49) Akbar’s (9: H5, 92) Al Fresco (1: G4, 144) Al Dente (1: H3, off) Alba (9: F2, 60) L’Alba D’Oro/Anima (1: C2, 13) Alishan Tandoori (8: E6, off) Alla Turca (6: B2, 15) Amalfi Pizzeria (6: D3, 49) Amarone (1: E5, 94) Amarone (6: D3, 67) Amber Restaurant (2: B3, 27) Amber Regent (6: D3, 53) Amicus Apple (1: C6, 70) Amore (7: D1, 20) Amore Dogs (1: D5, 88) An Clachan (9: G5, 94) Anatolia Chargrill (6: C3, 61) Angels With Bagpipes (2: C3, 23) Ann Purna (3: G1, 42) [Another] Piece (9: G2, 125) Anteaques (3: G1, 49) The Apartment Bistro (3: B2, 19) Apex Hotels see Agua, Elliot’s Restaurant, Heights Appetite Direct (1: C4, 42) The Apron Stage Arcaffe (9: F5, 95) The Arches Café Bar & Restaurant (6: C5, 96) Arisaig (7: C2, 26) The Art School (6: A2, 5) Art Lover’s Café (8: B1, off) Arta (7: C2, 45) ArtCafe Morita (2: E3, 116) Artisan Roast (9: F3, 68) Artisan Roast (1: F3, 131) Artisan Roast (3: A4, 24) Ashoka Ashton Lane (9: D2, 36) Ashoka at the Quay (8: E1, off) Ashoka Bearsden (9: A1, off) Ashoka Southside (8: A5, off) Ashoka West End (9: D5, 116) Asia Style (9: I4, 84) Assam’s (6: D3, 54) Assam’s Café (1: H2, off) Asti (1: F3, 130) Athena Greek Taverna (9: E6, 108) The Atholl Dining Room (1: D3, 34)

40 138 175 60 144 145 145 122 54 121 36 90 174 140 73 42 74 171 164 175 171 28 134 68 87 87 87 18 87 101 159 159 112 33 146 75 75 131 98 146 160 152 76 152 87 140 18 152 76 131 160 88 68 134 44 33

46 174 152 110 162 112 110 167 58 131 44 44 146 146 146 146 146 140 147 68 76 160 88

The name of each establishment is followed by its map reference (map number, grid, point number) in brackets and then by the page number of the review The Auld Hoose (3: H1, 43) 19 Avenue G (9: D1, 42) 131 Avoca Bar & Grill (1: A3, 19) 19 B’est (2: E4, 88) 64 Babbity Bowster (7: D4, 46) 112 Baby Grand (6: A2, 4) 123 La Bagatelle (3: C1, 9) 64 Bagel Mania (6: B2, 12) 134 The Baked Potato Shop (2: D3, 15) 104 Balbir’s (9: C3, 16) 147 Balbir’s Saffron Lounge (8: A5, 21) 147 The Balcony Cafe (8: A1, off) 131 The Balmoral Bar (2: D2, 3) 19 Balmoral Hotel see The Balmoral Bar, Hadrian’s Brasserie, Number One, Palm Court Balti Club (9: H4, 82) 169 Banana Leaf (6: C2, 109) 141 Banana Leaf (8: D1, off) 147 Banana Leaf (9: D5, 121) 147 The Bank Café Bar (8: A5, off) 112 Bann, David see David Bann 19 Bar 50 (2: D3, 94) Bar Gambrino (9: G2, 73) 112 Bar Gandolfi (7: C2, 25) 112 Bar Missoni (2: C3, 34) 19 Bar 91 (7: C2, 14) 112 Bar Roma (4: C1, 6) 76 Bar Soba (9: C2, 25) 141 Bar Soba (6: D4, 78) 142 Bar Ten (6: D4, 79) 113 La Barantine (3: A4, 26) 44 Barbarossa (8: A5, off) 152 Barça Tapas and Cava Bar (6: D4, 77) 168 Barioja (2: E2, 102) 97 Barley Bree Restaurant with Rooms 174 Barolo Grill (9: H4, 80) 152 The Basement Bar and Restaurant (1: F4, 139) 20 The Bath Street Pony (6: B2, 18) 113 Battlefield Rest (8: D6, 24) 152 The Bay Tree Café (9: G2, 124) 132 The Beach House 44 Beirut (2: D5, 82) 82 The Belle (9: E1, 55) 113 Bellini (8: A5, 22) 153 Bell’s Diner (1: B3, 24) 80 The Ben Nevis (9: E6, 130) 113 Berits & Brown (7: C2, 12) 132 Bia Bistrot (3: A5, 32) 33 Bibi’s Cantina (9: A3, off) 158 Bier Halle (6: D4, 81) 114 Bier Hof (6: B2, 9) 114 Big Mouth Coffee Bar and Café (9: B3, 10) 132 The Big Blue (9: F2, 63) 153 Bijou (5: E5, off) 34 The Birdcage 88 Biscuit (8: A4, 18) 132 34 Bisque Bar & Brasserie (3: B3, 22) Bistro at One Devonshire Gardens (9: A1, off) 162 Le Bistro Beaumartin (6: C3, 107) 145 Le Bistrot de l’Institut francais d’Ecosse (4: B1, 7) 64 Black Poppy (8: E4, off) 132 Black Sheep Bistro (9: I3, off) 123 Black Sparrow (9: H5, 88) 114 The Black Cat (1: B6, 53) 20 Black Medicine Coffee Company (3: B2, 20) 44 Black Medicine Coffee Company (2: D4, 88) 44 Black Medicine Coffee Company (3: D4, 68) 44 Bar Bloc+ (6: C2, 42) 114 Blonde (3: H1, 48) 34 Blue Dog (6: D3, 106) 114 The Blue Blazer (4: E3, 54) 20 The Blue Goose Country Pub 20 Blue Moon Café (1: F3, 127) 34 The Blue Parrot Cantina (1: B3, 27) 79 Bluerapa Thai (4: B3, 24) 101 Blythswood Square see Restaurant at Blythswood Square Bo’Vine Meats and Wines (9: D1, 49) 163

The Boat House 172 Bobar (9: D1, 49) 114 Bocadillo (9: H5, 91) 132 Boda Bar (1: H2, off) 20 La Bodega Tapas Bar (9: A3, off) 168 Bollywood: The Coffee Box (3: B3, 27) 69 Bon Papillon (1: C4, 43) 16 Bon Appétit (9: E5, 111) 169 The Bon Vivant (1: C5, 81) 20 Bond No. 9 (5: C3, 5) 20 Bonham Hotel see Restaurant at the Bonham La Bonne Auberge (6: D2, 30) 145 Bonsai Bar Bistro (2: E5, 79) 58 Booly Mardy’s (9: D1, 47) 114 Boteco do Brasil (7: C2, 35) 160 The Bothy (9: D1, 40) 163 Boudoir Wine Bar (7: C2, 26) 114 The Bow Bar (2: C4, 41) 21 Braidwoods 173 Bramble (1: D4, 100) 21 Brass & Copper Coffee (4: C2, 13) 44 Brass Monkey (2: E4, 84) 21 The Brass Monkey (9: F6, off) 115 The Brass Monkey Leith (1: H2, off) 21 Brasserie 19 (9: A1, off) 123 The Brasserie at Òran Mór (9: E1, 50) 163 The Brasserie at the Chip (9: D2, 32) 123 La Brava (8: A5, off) 153 Brazilian Sensation (3: G2, 50) 82 Bread Street Brasserie (4: D3, 55) 34 Brel (9: D2, 29) 115 BrewDog Edinburgh (2: D4, 21) 21 BrewDog Glasgow (9: D4, 135) 115 Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or (6: C3, 37) 146 The Bridge Inn 172 Britannia Spice (5: A2, 2) 69 Brooklyn Café (8: A4, 15) 132 Broughton Delicatessen (1: F3, 126) 45 Brown Sugar (8: D5, 26) 132 Browns Bar and Brasserie (1: B6, 56) 35 Browns Bar & Brasserie (7: B1, 47) 123 Bruadar (9: B4, 11) 115 Brutti Ma Buoni (7: C2, 11) 123 Buffalo Grill (2: D5, 69) 80 Buffalo Grill (1: A3, 18) 80 Bukharah (9: F5,105) 147 The Bungo Bar & Kitchen (8: C2, 8) 124 Bunker (6: B2, 22) 115 The Butchershop Bar & Grill (9: E5, 115) 124 The Butterfly and the Pig (6: C2, 35) 116 Buttery, The, see Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery Buzzy’s Restaurant and Bar (6: D4, 77) 159 The Cabin (9: A3, off) 163 Cafe Circa (9: A1, off) 133 Café Cossachok (7: C2, 37) 160 Cafe D’Jaconelli (9: I1, off) 133 Cafe Darna (9: I4, 127) 147 Cafe Source Too (9: A1, off) 163 Café Andaluz (9: D1, 44) 168 Café Andaluz (1: C5, 68) 97 Café Andaluz (6: E4, 71) 168 Café Antipasti (6: B2, 14) 153 Café Cassis (3: I3, 56) 35 babbity Bowster (9: H2, 74) 133 Café Cosmo (6: C2, 25) 110 Café Domenico (5: C3, 21) 76 Café Fish (5: C5, 37) 62 Café Gandolfi (7: C2, 25) 124 Café Grande (3: A4, 25) 35 Cafe Hub (2: B3, 29) 45 Café Hula (6: D2, 27) 133 Café India (7: C2, 33) 147 Café Lucia (2: D4, 86) 16 Café Marina (2: D3, 13) 45 Café Marlayne (1: G3, 148) 64 Café Marlayne (1: C5, 76) 64 Café Milk (4: B3, 29) 45 Café Modern One (4: A1, off) 16 Café Modern Two (4: A1, off) 16 Café Nom de Plume (1: F3, 121) 45 Café Pop (9: E1, 54) 133

Café Portrait (1: E4, 98) 16 Café Renroc (1: H3, off) 45 22 Café Royal Circle Bar (1: F5, 108) Café Royal Oyster Bar (1: F5, 106) 62 Café St Honoré (1: C5, 80) 88 Café Salma (9: H5, 87) 147 Café Salma (9: H5, 87) 161 Café Source (7: C3, 42) 163 Café Truva (2: E3, 115) 47 Café Truva (2: A5, 42) 47 Café Truva (5: C4, 36) 47 Cafe Wander (6: D3, 113) 133 Café Wander (9: F6, off) 133 Cafezique (9: B2, 5) 124 Caffe Espresso (2: C3, 25) 46 Cail Bruich (9: E1, 51) 163 The Calabash Restaurant (6: D4, 84) 161 The Caley Sample Room (4: A4, off) 22 Calistoga (1: C6, 67) 81 The Canny Man’s (3: A5, off) 22 The Canon’s Gait (2: E3, 112) 22 Il Cappuccino (9: F2, 59) 134 The Captain’s Rest (9: H3, 76) 116 Cardamom (1: H2, off) 98 Carluccio’s (6: D4, 88) 153 Carrot Top’s Café (7: C3, 43) 134 Castle Terrace (4: E3, 42) 88 Cathedral House Hotel (7: E1, off) 116 Celadon (3: H3, 61) 101 Celino’s (7: E1, off) 153 Centotre (1: C5, 64) 76 La Cerise (5: B5, 40) 47 Chang Thai Restaurant (2: D3, 11) 101 Channings Restaurant (4: B1, off) 89 Charcoals (6: D3, 65) 148 Chardon d’Or see Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or Charleston Restaurant 35 Cherry and Heather Fine Foods (8: C1, off) 134 Chez Roux 172 Chillies West End (9: H4, 79) 148 China Blue (6: D2, 46) 140 China Town (4: B3, 22) 55 Chinaski’s (9: H5, 89) 116 The Chippy Doon The Lane (6: D4, 76) 169 The Chocolate Tree (3: A4, 23) 47 Chop Chop (4: B3, 27) 55 Chop Chop (5: C3, 8) 55 Chow (9: C2, 24) 140 Church on the Hill (8: C5, 27) 116 Cinnamon 99 Circle Café (1: C1, 5) 47 Circus (2: E3, 104) 83 Citation (7: B2, 9) 124 City Art Centre Café (2: D2, 7) 16 City Café (2: D3, 20) 23 City Café (9: G6, off) 125 City Merchant (7: C2, 15) 163 Clark & Sons (8: A5, off) 125 Classic’s (1: H3, 150) 69 Clockwork Beer Co (8: E6, off) 116 The Cloisters (3: C1, 5) 23 Coffee Angel (1: C2, 7) 47 Coffee, Chocolate and Tea (9: G6, off) 133 Coia’s Café (7: E1, off) 154 Coltman’s Delicatessen & Kitchen 172 The Common Rooms (9: C3, 21) 116 Cookie (8: C2, 7) 125 The Corinthian Club (7: B1, 2) 125 Cottier’s (9: B2, 3) 125 Crabby Macs Seafood Café (9: F2, 64) 143 Crabshakk (9: F6, 107) 144 Craig Millar @ 16 West End 174 Cranachan (6: D4, 77) 135 Cranberry’s (7: C2, 10) 135 Cranston’s Restaurant (2: C2, 1) 89 Creedence 144 Creelers (2: D3, 18) 62 Crêpe à Croissant (9: H4, 81) 134 Criterion (9: A3, off) 125 Cruz Bar and Restaurant (5: D3, 16) 23 Cucina LC (4: A3, off) 48 Cucina (2: C3, 34) 77

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INDEX

Cuckoo’s Bakery (1: C2, 11) Cup (9: D1, 23) Curlers Rest (9: D1, 38) Cushion & Cake (9: D5, 132) Cuthberts Coffee & Bistro (4: D4, 36) Dakhin (7: C2, 13) Darcy’s (6: D4, 77) David Bann (2: E3, 106) De Niro’s see Cruz Bar and Restaurant Deans at Let’s Eat Delivino Delizique (9: B2, 4) Den Bar & Restaurant (9: A1, off) The Den at Dining In with Mother India (9: D5, 118) The Dhabba (7: C2, 28) Di Maggio’s (8: B4, 14) Di Maggio’s (6: E4, 73) Di Maggio’s (9: C1, 41) Di Maggio’s Theatreland (6: D2, 29) Diner 7 (5: C3, 19) The Dining Room (1: D5, 86) Dino Ferrari (6: D2, 47) Divino Enoteca (2: C4, 51) The Dogs (1: D5, 87) The Dome Grill Room (1: D5, 103) The Doublet (9: G2, 70) Dovecot Café by Stag Espresso (2: E4, 81) Dragon-i (6: D2, 28) Dragonfly (2: A4, 47) The Drake (9: H4, 83) DRAM! (9: G3, 78) Drill Hall Arts Café (1: H2, off) Duck’s at Kilspindie House Dukes Bar (9: D5, 133) Dunstane House Hotel see The Skerries Dusit (1: D5, 84) Earl of Marchmont (3: E3, 36) Earthy Canonmills (1: D1, 3) Earthy Market Café (3: H5, 66) eat café (8: A5, 28) Eat Deli (8: A5, off) Ecco Vino (2: C3, 9) Edinburgh Larder (2: D3, 96) EH15 El Bar (3: H1, 39) El Quijote (3: C1, 6) Elaine’s Cuppa Cake (3: H2, 55) Elbow (1: F1, 155) Element (1: C6, 69) Elià (6: E4, 69) Elliot’s Restaurant (1: F5, 111) Embo (1: H2, 154) Empires (2: E3, 108) The Engine Shed (3: I1, 45) E:S:I - Englishman, Scotsman and an Irishman (5: D5, 34) Epicures of Hyndland (9: A1, 1) L’escargot Blanc (4: C1, 8) L’escargot Bleu (1: F3, 123) The Espy Eteaket (1: C5, 74) Eusebi Deli (7: E1, off) Falko (Konditormeister) (3: A4, 30) La Famiglia (9: A1, off) Fanelli’s (7: C2, 26) Fanny Trollopes (9: F6, 100) La Favorita (1: H2, off) Fifi and Ally (6: D4, 77) 56 North (3: G1, 40) Filmhouse Café Bar (4: D3, 45) The Finnieston (9: F6, 97) La Fiorentina (8: E1, off) Firebird (9: D5, 117) First Coast (4: A4, 38) Fishers Bistro (5: D3, 13) Fishers in the City (1: D5, 83) The Flavour Co (9: F2, 57) Foodies at Holyrood (2: F3, 114) Forth Floor Brasserie (1: E5, 113) Forth Floor Restaurant (1: E5, 113) The Four Seasons Hotel Four Seasons (6: C1, 24) Frankfurter Eck (1: H2, 153) Fratelli Sarti (6: C2, 43) Fratelli Sarti (6: D3, 64) The French Fancies (1: E3, 135) Fressh (7: B1, 4) The Fruitmarket Gallery Café (2: D2, 6)

135 116 135 48 148 117 104

174 174 125 117 148 148 154 154 154 154 81 89 154 23 35 35 117 17 140 23 125 117 17 172 117

102 24 36 48 135 135 24 48 89 97 97 49 24 24 161 36 49 84 105 36 126 65 65 24 49 169 49 154 154 126 99 135 24 17 117 154 126 36 62 62 136 49 36 90 174 140 84 155 155 50 136 17

Fusion 173 Gaia Delicatessen (1: H2, off) 50 Gamba (6: C3, 57) 144 Gambrino (9: G2, 75) 155 Gandhi’s (4: D4, 56) 69 Gandolfi Fish to Go (7: C2, 24) 169 Gandolfi Fish (7: C2, 24) 144 The Gardener’s Cottage (1: H4, 146) 90 La Garrigue (2: E2, 101) 65 La Garrigue Bistro (5: C3, 4) 66 The Gateway Restaurant (1: A1, off) 50 Ghillie Dhu (4: C2, 17) 25 The Giffnock Ivy (8: A4, off) 126 Giuliano’s (1: G4, 143) 77 Giuliano’s on the Shore (5: C3, 20) 77 Glass & Thompson (1: D4, 39) 50 Global Deli (2: C4, 52) 46 Go Slow Café (8: E2, 9) 136 The Goat & Grill (9: D5, 113) 117 Golden Bridge (5: C5, 37) 55 Good Seed Bistro (4: A4, 37) 36 Gourmet Burger Kitchen (1: B6, 54) 81 The Grain Store (2: C3, 37) 90 Grassroots Organic (9: H5, 86) 169 The Greek Golden Kebab (8: D6, 23) 161 Green Chilli Café (9: D5, 114) 148 The Green Room (6: E2, 48) 110 Greenaway, Mark see Restaurant Mark Greenaway Greenmantle (2: E5, 71) 25 Greywalls Hotel see Chez Roux The Grill at Dakota Eurocentral 173 The Grill at Dakota Forthbridge 172 The Grill on the Corner (6: C4, 86) 126 The Grill Room at the Square (6: D4, 74) 164 The Grosvenor Café (9: D2, 31) 117 Guchhi Indian Seafood and Bar (5: C3, 18) 69 The Guildford Arms (1: F5, 109) 25 Guilty Lily (1: F1, off) 25 Gurkha Café (2: C3, 10) 84 Gusto (1: B6, 55) 77 Gusto & Relish (8: C2, 12) 136 Guy’s Restaurant & Bar (7: C2, 31) 126 Hadrian’s Brasserie (2: D2, 4) 37 The Halt Bar (9: H4, 126) 118 81 Hamburger Heaven (1: F3, 128) Hamiltons Bar and Kitchen (1: B3, 23) 25 Hanam’s (2: B3, 31) 84 Hanedan (3: H3, 58) 84 Hard Rock Café (1: D5, 102) 82 Harvey Nichols see Forth Floor Brasserie, Forth Floor Restaurant, Yo! Sushi The Haven 50 Hay Sushi (4: A3, 32) 58 Heart Buchanan (9: D1, 48) 169 Heart Buchanan (9: D1, 48) 136 Hectors (1: A3, 15) 25 Hellers Kitchen (3: H4, 64) 37 Henderson’s @ St John’s (4: D2, 19) 105 Henderson’s Vegetarian Restaurant (1: D5, 90) 105 Henderson’s Bistro (1: D5, 89) 105 Henri of Edinburgh (1: A3, 10) 50 Henri of Edinburgh (3: A5, off) 50 Henricks Bar (3: B2, 18) 27 Hewat’s Restaurant (3: H3, 59) 90 The Hidden Lane Tearoom (9: F6, 101) 110 Hillhead Bookclub (9: D1, 46) 118 Ho Wong (6: B5, 101) 140 The Holyrood 9A (2: E3, 105) 27 Home Bistro (2: E5, 75) 38 Home Wok (9: C3, 22) 169 Hong Fu Noodle (1: F5, 110) 56 The Honours (1: B5, 61) 38 Horton’s Bar & Kitchen (6: D3, 114) 118 Hot Hot Chinese (3: B1, 11) 56 Hotel Missoni see Bar Missoni, Cucina Hotel du Vin (2: C5, 64) 38 Howies (Victoria Street) (2: C3, 36) 90 Howies at Waterloo (1: G5, 112) 91 Hula Juice Bar and Gallery (2: B4, 43) 51 The Hyndland Café (9: A1, off) 136 Ian Brown Food and Drink (8: A5, off) 164 Ichiban Japanese Noodle Café (6: E5, 99) 142 Ichiban Japanese Noodle Café (9: B3, 9) 142 Iggs (2: E2, 103) 98

Iglu (1: C4, 45) Ignite (4: B3, 26) iKafe (8: C1, 1) Illegal Jack’s (4: D3, 50) Iman’s (3: B1, 12) Indaba (3: B1, 2) India Quay (9: G6, off) Indian Lounge (1: C6, 66) The Indian Cavalry Club (4: B2, 21) Indigo Yard (4: C1, 5) inDulge Ingram Wynd (7: C1, 19) The Inn at Lathones The Inn at Kippen The Institute (3: E3, 70) International Starters (5: C3, 6) Iris (1: D5, 85) iso-bar (5: D4, 26) Italian Kitchen (1: A3, 33) The Italian Caffè (7: C2, 23) The Italian Kitchen (7: C1, 18) Itchycoo Bar & Kitchen (2: D3, 97) Itri (3: A2, off) Ivy (9: F6, 106) Izzi (4: D3, 51) Jackson’s Bar (6: C1, 110) Jamie’s Italian (1: D5, 72) Jamie’s Italian (7: B1, 1) Jasmine Chinese Restaurant (4: D3, 47) Jelly Hill Cafe/Bar (9: A1, 2) Joseph Pearce’s (1: G3, 152) Kalpna (3: G1, 44) Kama Sutra (4: D3, 49) Kama Sutra (6: B2, 7) Kampong Ah Lee Malaysian Delight (3: G1, 47) Kampung Ali Malaysian Delight (4: D4, 35) Kanpai (4: E3, 48) Karen Wong’s Chinese Restaurant (3: H2, 53) Karen’s Unicorn (1: E4, 119) Karen’s Unicorn (1: B3, 31) Kasturi (4: C2, 20) Katie’s Diner (3: B2, 17) Kay’s Bar (1: B4, 46) Kebab Mahal (2: D4, 83) Kebabish Grill (8: E1, 6) KG Café (9: D4, 123) Kember & Jones Fine Food Emporium (9: C2, 26) Ketchup (9: D2, 30) Ketchup (8: A4, 20) Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant (5: E4, 29) Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant (7: C2, 29) Khushi’s (1: G3, 147) The Khyber (8: D1, off) The Kilderkin (2: F2, 113) Kilspindie House Hotel see Duck’s at Kilspindie House Kim’s Korean Meals (3: G1, 41) King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut (6: B3, 40) The Kingarroch Inn The King’s Wark (5: D3, 24) The Kitchen Restaurant (8: A4, off) The Kitchin (5: C3, 7) Kitsch Inn (6: B2, 17) Koh-i-Noor (9: H5, 90) Konaki Greek Taverna (9: F5, 104) KoolBa (7: C1, 16) Koyama (2: C5, 65) Kuta (6: C2, 44) Kweilin (1: D4, 37) Kwok Brasserie (3: H5, 67) Kyloe Restaurant & Grill (4: C2, 16) LUV Café (9: A6, off) La Tea Doh (8: C1, 2) Lamora (9: E5, 110) Lancers Brasserie (1: A3, 22) The Lansdowne Bar & Kitchen (9: G2, 72) La Lanterna (6: C4, 95) Laurie’s (6: C3, 62) Lebowskis (4: D3, 52) Lebowskis (9: F6, 96) The Left Bank (9: F3, 67) Leith Lynx (5: D5, 37) Leo’s Beanery (1: C4, 40) Leven’s (3: B2, 15) The Libertine (7: C2, 44)

91 69 136 79 69 84 149 70 70 27 174 164 174 174 18 84 38 27 77 155 155 39 77 118 58 118 78 155 56 136 27 71 71 149 59 59 59 56 56 56 71 82 27 71 149 110 136 159 159 84 161 71 161 27

59 118 175 27 111 91 142 149 162 150 59 118 57 57 92 137 134 155 72 119 155 137 28 119 127 39 51 102 119

Librizzi (1: B5, 62) 78 Limelight Bar and Grill (6: B4, 90) 127 The Little Café (9: D5, 120) 137 The Living Room (1: B5, 59) 39 The Living Room (6: C3, 60) 127 Locanda de Gusti (1: F3, 122) 78 Loch Fyne Restaurant (5: A2, off) 62 Lock 27 (9: A1, off) 119 Loon Fung (1: C1, 2) 57 Loopy Lorna’s Tea House @ Churchill Theatre (3: A5, 33) 18 Los Argentinos (3: H3, 57) 85 Los Cardos (1: H2, off) 79 Loudon’s Café & Bakery (4: C4, 57) 51 Lucky 7 Canteen (6: C2, 33) 127 MacSorley’s (6: C5, 100) 120 Maggie May’s (7: C2, 34) 164 The Magnum Restaurant & Bar (1: E4, 118) 92 Maison Bleue (2: B3, 40) 66 Malaga Tapas (8: D1, off) 168 Malmaison (6: B3, 39) 146 39 Malmaison Brasserie (5: D3, 12) Malvarosa 98 Mamma’s American Pizza Company (2: B4, 46) 82 The Manna House (1: H3, off) 51 Le Marché Français (4: B3, 25) 66 Mariachi (2: C3, 39) 80 Mark Greenaway, Restaurant see Restaurant Mark Greenaway Martha’s (6: C3, 105) 137 Martin Wishart, Restaurant see Restaurant Martin Wishart Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond 174 Masala Twist (9: D2, 35) 150 Maxi’s (1: A3, 16) 51 McKirdy’s Steakhouse (4: B3, 30) 92 The Meadow Bar (3: G1, 46) 28 Mediterraneo (7: B1, 3) 156 Merchant Chippie (7: D2, 17) 169 Metropole (3: H3, 60) 51 Metropolitan (7: C2, 26) 128 Mezbaan South Indian Restaurant (3: C1, 4) 72 Mimi’s Bakehouse (5: C4, 31) 51 Mimi’s Kitchen (9: I4, 85) 137 Miro’s Cantina Mexicana (1: B6, 50) 80 Mise en Place (8: C1, 3) 128 Miso & Sushi (4: A3, off) 59 Missoni Hotel see Bar Missoni, Cucina Mithas (5: C3, 9) 72 The Mitre (2: D3, 93) 28 Molly Malones (6: D2, 32) 120 Mono (7: C3, 41) 171 Monteiths (2: E3, 99) 39 Montpeliers Bar and Brasserie (3: A4, 28) 39 Moo Cafeteria (1: C1, 6) 51 Moskito (6: B2, 20) 120 The Mosque Kitchen (2: E5, 77) 72 Mother India (9: F5, 102) 150 Mother India’s Café (9: D5, 119) 150 73 Mother India’s Café (2: D4, 92) Moyra Jane’s (8: C1, 4) 137 Mrs Forman’s Bar & Kitchen 28 Mulberry Street Bar (8: C2, 13) 120 The Mulroy (4: B2, 14) 67 Mums Great Comfort Food (2: C5, 62) 40 Museum Brasserie (2: D4, 59) 40 The Mussel and Steak Bar (2: C4, 44) 63 Mussel Inn (1: D5, 71) 63 Mussel Inn (6: C3, 59) 144 My Big Fat Greek Kitchen (3: C1, 3) 85 Mya (5: C3, 3) 102 Nachos (8: A4, 19) 158 Nagoya Original Sushi Restaurant (1: H3, off) 60 Naked Soup (9: E1, 52) 138 Namaste Kathmandu (2: C4, 61) 73 Nanakusa (6: A2, 1) 142 Nardini’s (9: D2, 34) 138 Nargile (1: D5, 93) 85 National Gallery of Scotland see The Scottish Café and Restaurant National Museum of Scotland see Tower Restaurant Nawroz (2: D5, 67) 86 New Edinburgh Rendezvous (4: C1, 9) 57 New Town Deli (1: F3, 7) 46 New Town Deli (1: C2, 14) 46

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 191

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INDEX

The New York Steam Packet (1: D5, 73) 82 The Newington Traditional Fish Bar (3: H2, 54) 99 Nice’n’Sleazy (6: A2, 2) 120 Nile Valley (2: D5, 68) 86 9 Cellars Thali (1: E4, 116) 73 1901 Deli (8: A4, 17) 134 99 Hanover Street (1: D5, 96) 28 The Lansdowne Bar & Kitchen (5: D4, 27) 28 Nonna’s Kitchen (3: A5, off) 78 North Star (9: E1, off ) 138 North Bridge Brasserie (2: D2, 14) 40 No. Sixteen (9: C3, 18) 164 No 1 The Bank 175 No 1 Chocolate Factory (9: I5, 128) 138 No 1 Sushi Bar (3: B1, 7) 60 No. Sixteen (9: C3, 18) 164 O Sole Mio (6: D3, 50) 156 Ocean Spice (5: A2, off) 99 Offshore (9: F3, 69) 138 Oink (2: C3, 38) 46 Oishii (1: B6, 51) 60 The Old Bell Restaurant (3: H4, 65) 92 Old Waverley Hotel see Cranston’s Restaurant The Old Bell (3: H4, 65) 28 Olive Branch Bistro (1: F3, 124) 40 Oloroso (1: C6, 65) 93 Ondine (2: C3, 35) 63 One Devonshire Gardens see Bistro at One Devonshire Gardens One Square (4: D3, 44) 40 Opium (6: C3, 55) 142 The Orchard (1: C1, 1) 28 Origano (1: H2, off) 78 The Original Mosque Kitchen and Café (2: D5, 76) 73 Orocco Pier see Samphire Seafood Bar and Grill Osso Restaurant 172 Osteria Piero (6: C3, 56) 156 Ostlers Close 175 The Outsider (2: C4, 54) 40 The New Pakistani Café (8: D1, 5) 151 Palm Court (2: D2, 3) 52 Pancho Villa’s (2: E3, 111) 80 Pancho Villa’s (7: C2, 27) 158 Paperinos (Sauchiehall) (6: B2, 16) 156 Paperinos @ 78 (6: D4, 66) 156 Paperino’s (Byres) (9: D2, 37) 156 Papoli (4: B3, 28) 86 The Parlour Bar (5: D5, off) 29 La Parmigiana (9: F2, 61) 156 The Partners Italian Bistro (9: E1, off ) 156 Passorn (3: C1, 8) 102 The Pastures (3: E3, 69) 52 Patisserie Madeleine (1: A3, 17) 52 The Pear Tree House (2: E5, 72) 29 The Peat Inn 175 Peckham’s (7: B1, 7) 138 The Pelican Café (9: D4, 122) 128 Persia (9: E1, 53) 162 Pesto (6: D4, 103) 157 Peter’s Yard (3: E1, 38) 52 Peter’s West End (9: B3, 6) 128 Petit Paris (2: B4, 45) 67 La P’tite Folie (1: C5, 79) 67 La P’tite Folie (4: C1, 2) 67 Pho Vietnam House (4: B3, 31) 60 Piccolo Mondo Renfrew 157 Piccolo Mondo Glasgow (6: C4, 93) 157 Piece (9: F6, 99) 138 Pierre Victoire (1: D2, 9) 67 40 Pink Olive (2: D5, 70) Pinto Mexican Kitchen (6: E4, 87) 159 The Pipers’ Tryst (6: D1, 26) 111 Plumed Horse (5: C5, 38) 93 Point Hotel see Bread Street Brasserie The Pompadour (4: D2, 18) 93 Port of Siam (5: A2, off) 102 Porto & Fi (5: A2, off) 52 Porto & Fi on the Mound (2: C3, 26) 41 The Pot Still (6: D3, 108) 121 La Potinière 172 The Pour House (9: F6, 98) 121 Prestonfield House see Rhubarb Pulcinella (6: C3, 58) 157 Punjab’n de Rasoi (5: C5, off) 73 Punjabi Charing Cross (9: H6, 129) 151 Purslane (1: B3, 25) 93

Queen’s Arms (1: C5, 75) 29 Rab Ha’s (7: B1, 8) 164 Radisson SAS see Itchycoo Bar & Kitchen Rafael’s (1: A3, 21) 98 Rasoi Indian Kitchen (9: C3, 13) 151 Rawalpindi Tandoori (6: B2, 10) 151 Red Squirrel (4: D2, 60) 29 Red Box Noodle Bar (2: D5, 74) 57 Red Onion (6: C2, 41) 128 Restaurant Mark Greenaway (1: F4, 142) 93 The Restaurant Bar & Grill (6: D4, 77) 129 Restaurant at Blythswood Square (6: C3, 38) 164 Restaurant at the Bonham (4: B1, 1) 93 Restaurant Martin Wishart (5: C4, 30) 67 Rhubarb (3: I3, off) 94 Rice and Noodle (9: C3, 20) 170 Rice Terraces (3: H2, 52) 60 100 Ricebox (1: H3, off) Rick’s (1: C5, 77) 41 The Rio Café (9: B3, 7) 138 Ristorante Ferrari (3: A4, 29) 78 Ristorante Teatro (6: A2, 112) 157 Rivage (1: H3, off) 74 Riverside Café (9: A4, off) 111 Roastit Bubbly Jocks (9: A3, off) 164 Rocket Café (3: A5, 34) 53 Rocksalt Café Deli (5: D4, 28) 53 Rogano (6: D4, 75) 144 Roma Mia (8: D1, off ) 157 Ronde Bicycle Outfitters (1: B3, 32) 53 Room in Leith, A (5: C3, 11) 87 Room in the Town, A (1: C4, 44) 87 Room in the West End, A (4: B2, 15) 87 Room with a View 175 Roots and Fruits (9: F2, 58) 138 Rose and Grants (7: C2, 36) 139 The Roseleaf (5: C3, 22) 29 The Roxy 171 (9: H3, 77) 121 Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh see The Gateway Restaurant, Terrace Café The Royal Oak (2: D4, 91) 30 Ruan Siam (1: C4, 41) 103 Rumours Kopitiam (6: D3, 51) 142 Russian Passion (1: D1, 8) 86 The Rutland Bar (4: C2, 16) 30 Ryan’s Bar (1: A6, 47) 30 Ryan’s Cellar Restaurant (4: C1, 10) 94 86 Sabor Criollo (1: A3, 20) Saffrani (2: D4, 89) 74 Saigon Saigon Restaurant (1: E5, 105) 57 The Saint (1: B3, 29) 30 St Giles’ Cathedral Café (2: C3, 24) 53 St Louis Cafe Bar (9: A3, off) 159 30 The Salisbury Arms (3: I3, off) Samphire Seafood Bar and Grill at Orocco Pier 172 Santo’s Bistro (4: C3, 23) 78 Sapporo Teppanyaki (7: D1, 21) 142 Saramago Café Bar (6: B2, 11) 171 Scotch Malt Whisky Society see The Dining Room Scotsman Hotel see North Bridge Brasserie The Scottish Café and Restaurant (2: B2, 5) 94 Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art see Café Modern One The Scottish Café (2: B2, 5) 18 See Woo Restaurant (6: C1, off) 141 Le Sept (2: D3, 19) 68 The 78 (9: E6, 112) 171 The Shandon Belles (9: G6, off) 129 Shapla (1: H3, off) 100 Shebeen (5: C3, 10) 30 The Sheep Heid Inn 30 Sheraton Grand Hotel see One Square Shilla (1: D4, 38) 60 Shilla (9: E5, 109) 143 The Ship Inn 175 The Ship on the Shore (5: D3, 15) 63 The Shore Bar & Restaurant (5: D3, 14)41 Silver Bowl (1: H2, off) 100 Silver Bowl (5: E5, off) 100 Silver Bowl (1: H2, off) 100 Sing Thai (1: B3, 28) 103 The Sisters Jordanhill (9: A1, off) 167 The Sisters Kelvingrove (9: F5, 103) 167 63 Tay Street Restaurant 175

The Skerries (4: A3, off) Sloans (6: D5, 98) Slouch (6: B2, 19) Slumdog Bar & Kitchen (6: B2, 6) Smoak (9: D5, 131) Smoke Stack (1: F3, 132) Sofi’s (5: C4, 33) Sonar Gao (5: B5, 39) Sonny & Vito’s (9: G2, 71) The Sorn Inn Southern Spice (6: B2, 111) The Spice Pavilion (1: D4, 36) Spirit of Thai (4: D3, 46) Spoilt for Choice (1: H3, off) Spoon Café Bistro (2: D4, 87) Sprio (1: B3, 26) Stac Polly (Dublin Street) (1: E4, 120) Stac Polly Bistro (2: E3, 107) The Stand (1: E4, 117) Steak (1: F4, 141) Stefano’s (8: E6, off) Stereo (6: C4, 63) Stewart’s Victorian Tea Rooms (7: B1, 6) The Stockbridge Restaurant (1: B3, 30) The Storytelling Café (2: E3, 100) Strada (1: C6, 58) Stravaigin (9: F3, 66) Stravaigin Café Bar (9: F3, 66) Stravaigin 2 (9: D1, 39) The Street (1: F4, 140) The Suburban Pantry The Sunflower Restaurant Suruchi (2: E4, 85) Suruchi Too (5: D5, 35) Sushiya (4: A3, 34) Sweet Melindas (3: E3, 37) Sygn (4: C1, 3) Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen (9: D1, 43) Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen (6: D4, 82) The Tailend Restaurant and Fish Bar (1: H2, off) Tang’s (2: C4, 53) Tanjore (3: G1, 62) Tapa Bakehouse (7: E1, off ) Tapa Coffeehouse (8: D2, 11) Tapa Barra y Restaurante (5: C4, 32) Taste (6: C2, 21) The Tattie Shop (3: A3, 31) Tchai-Ovna House of Tea (9: F3, 65) Tea at 94 (3: G2, 51) The Tearoom @ The Butterfly and the Pig (6: C2, 35) Tempus (1: D5, 101) Tempus Bar and Restaurant (6: C4, 83) Ten Hill Place (2: E4, 80) 10 to 10 In Delhi (2: E5, 73) The Terrace Brasserie (1: H4, off) Terrace Café (1: A1, off) Teuchters (4: B2, 15) Teuchters Landing (5: C3, 11) Tex Mex II (1: C5, 82) Thai Pod (1: H3, 149) Thai Lemongrass (3: B2, 21) Thai Lemongrass (6: D2, 31) Thai Orchid (2: B3, 33) Thali (7: C2, 30) The Scotch Whisky Experience see Amber Restaurant The 13th Note Café/Bar (7: C3, 40) Three Judges (9: B3, 8) Tibo (7: E1, off) Tigerlily (1: B6, 57) The Tiki Bar (6: D2, 17) Timberyard (4: E3, 53) Time 4 Thai (1: C5, 63) Tinderbox (9: C2, 27) Tinderbox (7: C1, 5) Tinderbox (6: D4, 77) Tinto Tapas Bar (8: D6, 25) Toast (3: E4, 35) Tonic (1: B5, 60) Tony Macaroni (9: C3, 17) Torna Sorrento (9: H4, 80) Torres (6: B2, 8) The Tourmalet (1: H2, off) Tower Restaurant (2: C4, 60) Tramway Café Bar (8: D1, off) Trans-Europe Café (7: C3, 39)

94 121 121 151 134 82 30 100 139 174 151 74 103 86 41 53 95 95 18 95 170 171 139 95 18 78 167 130 130 31 42 172 74 74 60 63 31 170 170 100 60 74 171 139 98 170 46 171 53 139 42 130 42 74 42 54 31 31 80 100 103 143 104 151

171 121 130 42 121 95 104 139 139 139 168 43 31 157 157 168 31 95 111 139

Traverse Bar Café (4: D3, 41) 18 Treacle Bar and Kitchen (1: F3, 138) 31 The Treehouse (3: B2, 16) 54 Tribeca (9: C3, 14) 140 Tron Theatre (7: C2, 38) 111 Tropeiro (6: B4, 92) 162 Tupiniquim (2: C5, 66) 86 Turkish Kitchen (1: B6, 52) 86 Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery (9: G6, off) 144 Two Fat Ladies in the City (6: C2, 34) 145 Two Fat Ladies (9: C3, 15) 145 The Two Figs (9: B3, 12) 122 21212 (1: H4, off) 68 Two Thin Laddies (4: E4, 58) 54 Ubiquitous Chip (9: D2, 32) 167 Under the Stairs (2: C4, 50) 31 Underdogs (1: D5, 88) 32 Union of Genius (2: C5, 63) 46 The Universal (6: C2, 45) 122 Uplawmoor Hotel and Restaurant 174 The Upper House (8: E2, 10) 170 Urban Bar & Brasserie (6: D4, 72) 130 Urban Angel (1: F3, 137) 43 Urban Angel (1: D4, 99) 43 Urban Pind (7: C2, 32) 151 La Vallée Blanche (9: D1, 45) 146 Valvona & Crolla Vincaffè (1: E4, 114) 79 Valvona & Crolla Caffè Bar (1: G3, 151) 54 Variety Bar (6: A2, 3) 122 Velvet Elvis (9: A3, off) 130 The Verandah Tandoori (4: A3, 33) 75 Verona (6: D3, 52) 158 Vespbar (6: D4, 102) 122 Victoria (1: H2, off) 32 Villager (2: C4, 57) 32 VIP Taste (8: E2, off) 170 La Vita (6: E4, 70) 158 La Vita Spuntini (9: C2, 28) 158 Viva Brazil (6: B4, 91) 162 Viva Mexico (2: D3, 12) 80 The Voodoo Rooms (1: F5, 107) 43 Voujon (3: H3, 63) 75 Vroni’s Wine & Champagne Bar (6: D3, 104) 122 Wagamama (6: D3, 115) 143 Wagamama (4: D2, 59) 61 Wannaburger (4: C1, 11) 82 The Water of Leith Café Bistro (5: B3, 23) 54 Waterside Bistro 173 Wau Cafe (9: D5, 134) 143 The Waverley Tea Room (8: A4, 16) 122 Wedgwood the Restaurant (2: E3, 110) 95 Wee Cucina (8: A5, off) 158 Wee Lochan (9: A1, off) 167 The Wee Curry Shop (6: C1, 23) 152 The Wee Curry Shop (9: D2, 33) 152 The Wee Curry Shop (9: C3, 19) 152 The Wee Restaurant 175 Wellington Coffee (1: D5, 91) 54 WEST Brewery (7: E4, off) 122 The WestRoom (4: C1, 4) Where the Monkey Sleeps (6: C3, 36) Whighams Wine Cellars (1: A6, 48) Whiski (2: D3, 98) Whiski Rooms (2: C3, 30) The White Horse (2: E3, 109) Whitmuir the Organic Place Whole Foods Market (8: A5, off) Wildfire Restaurant and Grill (1: B6, 49) Windlestraw Lodge Windows Restaurant (6: E3, 68) Wing Sing Inn (3: A2, off) Wishart, Martin at Loch Lomond see Martin Wishart at Lock Lomond Wishart, Martin see Restaurant Martin Wishart The Witchery by the Castle (2: B3, 28) Wok and Wine (1: C5, 78) Word of Mouth (1: H2, off) Wudon (9: F1, 56) Xanadu Chinese Restaurant (1: H3, off) Yadgar Kebab House (8: E1, off) Yes Sushi (1: D5, 95) Yo! Sushi (1: E5, 113) Yo! Sushi (8: A5, off) Yocoko (2: D4, 78) Yo! Sushi (6: D5, 97) Zen Kitchen (1: C2, 12) Zest (1: E4, 115) Zucca (4: D3, 43) The Zulu Lounge (3: A5, off )

32 140 32 32 96 32 173 170 96 173 167 58

96 58 54 143 58 170 61 61 143 61 143 101 75 79 54

192 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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