The List Edinburgh Festival Guide 2013 pt2 by List Publishing Ltd

SOUTHSIDE CITY GUIDE

SOUTHSIDE of the event, so it’s a good place to find out where your favourite stars will be performing at 3am and book your seat in plenty of time. The Southside forms the northern

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Bar, hosting several events on the Free Fringe, while west of the Meadows is the King’s Theatre. Head further north and you’ll join up with the Grassmarket and the Old Town via the slick architectural lines of the relatively new Quartermile development. The busiest festival venues are mostly to be found to the north east of the Meadows, spread across George IV Bridge, South Bridge (which becomes Nicolson Street and then Clerk Street further down) and Bristo Square, which is packed with shows, temporary venues and outdoor eating and drinking places during the Fringe. Here you’ll find the Gilded Balloon Teviot, Underbelly Bristo Square, Assembly George Square and the Pleasance Dome. Go further east to reach the rest of The Pleasance venue complex, with a buzzing courtyard and bars that are generally pretty reliable for a successful game of spot-thefamous-comedian. The Southside is a great area to walk around while planning which Fringe shows to see later in the day, as several of the big venues erect large chalk boards outside their doors with details of the day’s events, ticket prices, recent reviews and special offers. Some late-night comedy shows won’t reveal their line-up until the day

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upmarket area that’s home to most of Edinburgh’s rich and famous – but it has lots in the way of interesting shops and well-to-do cafes, too. (Charlotte Runcie)

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‘SOUTHSIDE IS HOME TO SOME OF THE BIGGEST FRINGE VENUES OF THE LOT’

edge of Edinburgh’s student district, so explore further south if you’re after some cheap but effective drinking holes. In sharp contrast is Morningside to the south and west, an

Key venues: (1) Bedlam (2) King’s Theatre (3) Meadows Theatre Big Top (4) Summerhall (5) The Queen’s Hall (6) Assembly @ George Square (7) Gilded Balloon Teviot (8) Underbelly Bristo Square (9) Pleasance Dome (10) Assembly Roxy (11) Pleasance Courtyard For the true Edinburgh Fringe experience, spend a day wandering through the tangle of pop-up bars, venues and food courts that take over the Southside every summer. It’s home to some of the biggest Fringe venues of the lot, as well as a hub of studenty bars, bookstores and charity shops. This isn’t a strictly defined area of Edinburgh, and plenty of locals would probably just describe it as ‘near the Meadows’. The Meadows themselves form a long stretch of grass that is, on sunny days, popular with revising students, picnicking families and anyone with a disposable barbecue and a free afternoon (there are designated barbecueing zones, though, to stop the whole place turning to ashes). At this time of year it’s where the Ladyboys of Bangkok perform their hugely popular shows, too. Nearby venues include Malone’s Irish

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you’ve probably never heard of – and you’ll probably be wanting to hear a lot more from them afterwards.

SHOPPING Coco Chocolate

EATING

174 B runtsfield Place, EH10 4ER, cocochocolate. co.uk, 0131 228 4526.

Mmmm . . . gorgeous, hand-tempered chocolates made in a specialist chocolate kitchen just down the road in Rosslyn. Of the stacks of bars piled neatly under the glass counter, unusual flavours include apple banoffee, pink peppercorn and tobacco – dark chocolate hearts filled with organic rose oil crème, which have induced near Zen-like trances in some test subjects, are particularly recommended. Psst – there’s an extra store on Broughton Street, too.

Opening times can change during the festival. For more great ideas on where to eat and drink, visit food.list.co.uk or pick up a copy of The List Eating and Drinking Guide 2013.

MORNING La Barantine CAFÉS 102 Bruntsfield Place, EH10 4DF, 0131 229 0267 | Mon–Sun 7.30am–6pm. £5.95 (set lunch)

Although the seating is tight at this authentic French café and boulangerie, it will leave you feeling much more Parisian than claustrophobic. Baguettes are freshly baked and ingredients are obviously sourced with pride, but it’s the selection of cakes and pastries that are the real star attraction. The cake counter, with its selection of rainbow macarons and fresh piles of croissants, is everything you could hope to drool over.

Designshop UK 116–120 Causewayside, EH9 1PU, designshopuk. com, 0131 667 7078.

Design Shop UK is run by knowledgeable and trend-aware staff, and stocks thoroughly contemporary and progressive pieces by the likes of Philippe Starck, Missoni and Marimekko, as well as modern takes on old classics like the 60s Egg Chair. Prices stretch well into the thousands (contemporary design doesn’t come cheap, darling) but there are smaller affordable bits and bobs in there too, as well as a nice line in gorgeously designed children’s books.

Hog’s Head Music 62 South Clerk Street, EH8 9PS, hogs-head.com, 0131 667 5274.

Muso paradise indeed. This grungy secondhand store is full of rare CDs and DVDs, collectable box sets and T-shirts. The staff are friendly and knowledgeable, the windows are crammed with rarities, and there’s a great trade-in policy.

Looking Glass Books 36 Simpson Loan, Quartermile, EH3 9GG, lookingglassbooks.com, 0131 229 2902.

Ensuring bookworms with a caffeine habit can feed both their addictions, this amiable ‘booktique’ café boasts its own lively literary scene, hosting a stream of reading groups, author events and kids’ storytelling sessions amid shelves stuffed with bestsellers and obscurities.

The Nomads Tent 21–23 St Leonard’s Lane, EH8 9SH, nomadstent. co.uk, 0131 662 1612.

A shop gallery space with trinkets sourced from Iran, India, Turkey and elsewhere in Asia, selling everything from rugs, runner and kilims, to furniture, jewellery textiles and ceramics.

Word Power Bookshop 43 West Nicolson Street, EH8 9DB, word-power. co.uk, 0131 662 9112.

A book shop with a strong political identity and focus on promoting non-mainstream literature. To this end they run the annual Edinburgh Book Fringe during August, with a series of free literary events featuring offbeat writers, and the Edinburgh Independent and Radical Book Fair in the autumn. Dip into the shop to find an energetic new book by someone

OPEN LATE

The Chocolate Tree CAFÉS 123 Bruntsfield Place, EH10 4EQ, 0131 228 3144, the-chocolate-tree.co.uk | Mon–Sat 8am–8pm; Sun 9am–8pm. £8 (lunch)

Don’t want to call it a night after your last show of the day? From ghost tours to artisan pies, Edinburgh has plenty to offer even the most die-hard night owl

Traverse Bar Cafe

Auld Reekie Tours

10 Cambridge Street, West End, EH1 2ED, traverse.co.uk, 0131 228 5383. Mon–Wed 9am–2am; Thu–Sat 9am–3am; Sun 10am– 1am.

Various tour options at various times and Old Town locations throughout the day and evening; see auldreekietours.com.

Since the Traverse theatre was originally founded to maintain the spirit of an Edinburgh August throughout the rest of the year, it’d be rude not to visit to pay your respects. With a reputation for presenting the best new theatre, their Fringe programme is vibrant and exciting, plus the café bar keeps the party going until the wee small hours on those nights when going home early just isn’t an option.

The Real Mary King’s Close Warriston’s Close, High Street, EH1 1PG, realmarykingsclose.com, 0845 070 6244. Daily 10am–9pm; Tue 6 Sun–Mon 26 Aug daily 9am–11pm.

The truth behind the Royal Mile’s chequered past – what they do and do not teach you at school – is brought to life at Mary King’s Close. Guides lead you through the maze of underground streets for stories of ghosts, murderers, the Black Death and indubitable proof that the truth is often more fascinating than fiction. It’s right on the Royal Mile, so there’s no end of pubs to retire to afterwards to show off your new-found knowledge.

A range of walks, spanning from the ‘Wynds and Closes’ tour, a flat-out historical factual wander through the old streets, to the alarmingly named ‘Terror Tour’ which takes in the underground vaults, the torture exhibition and the infamous terrifying stone circle. During the Fringe there are special tours for children and a bonus Midnight Paranormal Tour, jam-packed with the darkest and most frightening tales.

The Pie Maker 8 South Bridge, Old Town, EH1 1LL, piemaker.co.uk, 0131 558 1728. During the festival Mon–Thu 9am–2am; Fri/Sat 9am–3am; Sun 10am–midnight.

Look, don’t knock it. You’ll thank us when it’s 2am and, ravished by festivities, you’re craving carbs. The Pie Maker is handy for the main festival venues, located midway between the Pleasance and Underbelly Bristo Square, and offers more than 50 types of pies for all tastes, from traditional steak and chicken for meat lovers to Thai mushroom for vegans. Plus, there’s the likes of apple and cherry for the sweettoothed. Think of it as a classier version of a kebab. (Kirstyn Smith)

This bohemian cake shop complete with dangling vintage tea cups and brightly coloured origami chocolate boxes will not fail to tempt the sweet-toothed café-lover. There’s no savoury food on offer but indulgent Spanish hot chocolate served with freshly made churros is memorable enough. Afternoon tea here retains every bit of luxury while avoiding pomp and ceremony.

Falko (Konditormeister) CAFÉS 185 Bruntsfield Place, EH10 4DG, 0131 656 0763, falko.co.uk | Wed–Fri 9am–6pm; Sat 9am–6pm; Sun 9.30am–6pm. Closed Mon/Tue. £10 (lunch)

This corner of Germany in Bruntsfield is already a well-known hangout for cake connoisseurs and has numerous awards to recommend it. Prices reflect Falko’s commitment to authenticity and quality, with marzipan flown in from Lübeck and salad leaves collected by a local forager. Generous portions of torte – from nuss to Sacher – are a definite treat, while lunches are extremely good value, served with freshly baked speciality bread.

Freemans CAFÉS 4–6 Spottiswoode Road, EH9 1BQ, , freemanscoffee.co.uk | Mon–Sun 9am–6pm. £7.50 (lunch)

Bright, airy and shabbily chic, with clusters of comfy armchairs and tables surrounded by schoolroom seats, the stated friendliness to both dogs and children makes this a week-round haunt. Coffee is taken seriously and there’s plenty of unashamed geekery going on – there are different espresso blends depending on whether you’re taking it black or with milk.

The one & only

Mosque kitchen Curry in a hurry

Delicious freshly prepared curries, samosas and BBQ kebabs.We also cater for vegetarians.

33 Nicolson Square, Edinburgh EH8 9BX 0131 - 667 4035 Open 7 Days 11am - 10pm (Closed 1pm-1.45pm for prayer)

mosquekitchen@btconnect.com Hitlisted in The List Eating & Drinking Guide 10/11 140 THE LIST | Edinburgh Festival Guide 2013 | list.co.uk/festival

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There are also daily soups and stews, while scrambled eggs on toast and a mix ‘n’ match brunch menu are also available from early on to the very civilised time of 2pm.

Hellers Kitchen BISTROS & BRASSERIES 15 Salisbury Place, EH9 1SL, 0131 667 4654, hellerskitchen.co.uk | Mon–Sat 9am–10pm; Sun 10am–8pm. £15 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Don’t be fooled by the modest frontage: Heller’s is bigger on the inside. Similarly, the menu expands from lighter daytime café options to a full evening’s culinary revelry, and the daily changing specials board pulls the palate from hither to yonder with delight. The confit of duck is light enough to spread richly on crunchy toast, while the lamb rump, coupled with sweet potato fondant, is lightened by a harissa coating and accompanying juicy blood orange tossed in peppery rocket salad.

Loopy Lorna’s Tea House @ Church Hill Theatre ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS Church Hill Theatre, 33a Morningside Road, EH10 4DR, 0131 447 3042, loopylornas.com | Sun–Thu 9am–4.30pm; Fri/Sat 9am–4.30pm. £8.50 (set lunch)

Hot pinks and dazzling purples dominate both the decor and the cake toppings at this child-friendly café. Named after the founder’s beloved mum, the cheerful establishment offers daytime favourites such as soups, sandwiches and quiches but with an emphasis on dainty cakes and speciality teas. A member of the Tea Guild, the café’s devotion to tea is displayed in its speciality tea menu, with choices like the Oh My Masala Chai, a fragrant blend of Asian black teas.

Peter’s Yard CAFÉS 27 Simpson Loan (Quartermile), EH3 9GG, 0131 228 5876, petersyard.com | Mon–Fri 7am–7pm; Sat/Sun 9am–7pm. £9 (lunch)

This style-conscious Swedish bakery-cum-cafe adds a distinctly continental flavour to Middle Meadow Walk. For a comforting treat amid the baskets of speciality breads and buns, try a hot chocolate flavoured with subtle cardamom. The selection of cakes is impressive, with some inventive creations such as courgette, fig and chocolate loaf added to an already ample spread of authentic Swedish bakes.

The Treehouse CAFÉS 44 Leven Street, EH3 9LJ, 0131 656 0513 | Mon– Sat 8am–5pm; Sun 9am–5pm. £7 (lunch)

This bright, summery spot feels welcoming to anybody breezing in from Leven Street for a sit-in breakfast or lunch, or a take-away picnic on the Meadows. The eco-retro décor of cheerful pot plants and vintage vinyl attracts a young clientele while its beyond-city-centre location lowers the prices of breakfasts, from smoked salmon and scrambled egg croissants to porridge with poached apple, pear, honey and cinnamon. Lunches are fresh and classic salads, paninis and triple-decker club sandwiches, plus cakes and soups.

NOON Anteaques CAFÉS 17 Clerk Street, EH8 9JH, 0131 667 8466, anteaques.co.uk | Fri–Sun 11am–7pm. £6 (lunch)

Forget lunch and savoury snacks, you won’t find them here. This is a place for seriously savouring a cuppa with 80 different brews to choose from. Scones are made with dried fruit pre-soaked in tea and a sweet brioche bun is flavoured with green tea. All this is served on vintage china and silver cake stands, with tables under white cloths packed into a quirky interior alongside antique trinkets, crockery and fur coats.

Earthy Market Café CAFÉS 33–41 Ratcliffe Terrace, EH9 1SX, 0131 667 2967, earthy.co.uk | Mon–Fri 9am–6pm; Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 10am–5pm. £12.50 (lunch)

Earthy is an operation run by people who care about food, and the café’s creative menu – like the shop upstairs – is committed to ingredients that are local and organic. A salad platter may

not seem cheap but it delivers in tastes and textures, combining flavours of beetroot and pomegranate with a generous scattering of nuts and seeds. The reclaimed-wood walls and relaxed atmosphere make this a popular hangout for anyone who shares the Earthy food philosophy – those in the know include local toddlers and their parents as well as foodies who love to lunch.

The Engine Shed VEGETARIAN 19 St Leonards Lane, EH8 9SD, 0131 662 0040, engineshed.org.uk | Mon–Sat 10am–4pm. Closed Sun. £8 (lunch)

The Engine Shed acts as a training school to help adults with learning difficulties into meaningful, satisfying work. Trainees prepare, cook and serve all the food, as well as making the famously good bread, tofu, hummus and cakes, all of which are now for sale at a mini-store in the café. Expect reliable (if not revolutionary) quiches, salads and hot mains. The likes of veggie haggis with clapshot, or a very serviceable broccoli and cauliflower gratin, will fill you up pleasingly – and the cakes are always fantastic, with gluten-free and vegan options as standard.

Field SCOTTISH 41 West Nicolson Street, EH8 9DB, 0131 667 7010, fieldrestaurant.co.uk | Tue–Sat noon–2pm, 5.30–9pm Closed Sun/Mon. £11.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Those behind this simple, stripped-back room near George Square have tasty credentials. Most recently at The Plumed Horse, chef Gordon Craig and co-owner Richard Conway prove that a good value Scottish menu needn’t bow to cliché or blandness. This is assured, deft and feistily flavoured cooking. Comforting without being clumsy, a ham hock rissole is the right combination of hammy ‘pulled’ meat, with a crunchy, lightly breaded exterior, topped with the softness of a poached egg, with hollandaise sauce a silken last touch.

The Forest Café VEGETARIAN 141 Lauriston Place, EH3 9JN, 0131 229 4922, blog.theforest.org.uk/ | Mon–Sat 10am–11pm; Sun 10am–7pm. £6 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

The Forest vegetarian café is known less for its coffee and more as a shared space for likeminded people. The dusty, glass-fronted former shop unit buzzes with those who support the vision to encourage and fund creativity. Describing themselves as a collectively owned free-arts and events project, they are staffed almost completely by volunteers. The ramshackle recycled furniture, patchy carpets and graffiti art on concrete walls will not be to everyone’s tastes but those who are looking for a genuine alternative may find much to enjoy here.

Hewat’s Restaurant SCOTTISH 19–21b Causewayside, EH9 1QF, 0131 466 6660, hewatsrestaurant.co.uk | Mon/Tue 6–9.30pm; Wed/Thu noon–2pm, 6–9.30pm; Fri/Sat noon–2pm, 6–10pm. Closed Sun. £11.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Hewat’s offers fine dining at a fraction of the cost of some of the city’s restaurants and is keen to accommodate all budgets. This does not mean that they skimp on the ingredients; instead diners are treated to an array of high quality dishes such as grilled Loch Fyne oysters with Parma ham and hollandaise, or succulent roast tenderloin of boar with a morel mushroom sauce. Desserts deliver, too, especially the warm chocolate torte with kirsch cherries and mint mascarpone.

Kalpna VEGETARIAN 2/3 St Patrick’s Square, EH8 9EZ, 0131 667 9890, kalpnarestaurant.com | Mon–Sat noon–2pm, 5.30–10.30pm; Sun 5.30–10pm. £12 (lunch/dinner)

Ajay Bhartdwaj, owner and head chef of Kalpna, has spent over 30 years correcting the particularly British sensibility that Indian cuisine ought be a meaty affair. Indian cookery in its most traditional form is almost entirely meat-free; something which the all-vegetarian list.co.uk/festival | Edinburgh Festival Guide 2013 | THE LIST 141

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menu at Kalpna is happy to reflect. The dam aloo kashmeri – the restaurant’s signature dish – is a menu highlight, encompassing cutlets made from bound vegetables, paneer and nuts served in a delicate, creamy sauce.

Pekoe Tea CAFÉS/TEA HOUSE 20 Leven Street, EH3 9LJ, 0131 477 1838, pekoetea.co.uk/ | Mon–Sat 10am–6pm. Closed Sun.

Pekoe’s décor may be plush, with calming green shelves of exotic tea tins, packets, pots and cups, but it’s filled with real tea devotion. Guides are on hand to help you explore the tastes and smells of tea leaves, flowers and buds, sourced directly from Asia and Africa. In the 14-seat café, colourful infusions are welltimed and poured into elegant glass and china sets. It’s tea-rrific value at £2.50–£4 per pot

including refills. They also serve coffee, if that’s your cup of tea.

LaSal SPANISH 6–8 Howden Street, EH8 9LH, 0131 667 3600, lasal.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–10pm; Sat noon–11pm. Closed Sun. £7.50 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Floor-shaking stamping, strains of Spanish guitar and cries of ‘ole!’ might well accompany your meal at La Sal, thanks to regular performances from Alba Flamenca, the dance school next door to the restaurant. The menu offers a staple dishes such as Jamón Ibérico, Spanish omelette, chorizo, calamari and patatas bravas, along with more adventurous options include filling fabada (bean stew with pork shoulder) and, aptly, huevos a la flamenca (crisp potatoes, chorizo and egg sizzling in tomato sauce).

Three Birds Restaurant BISTROS & BRASSERIES 3–5 Viewforth, Bruntsfield, EH10 4JD, 0131 229 3252, threebirds.co.uk/ | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 6–10pm; Sat/Sun noon–4pm, 5–10pm. £9.50 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Three Birds is a popular local bistro with aspirations to bring inventive dining to the neighbourhood. The owners’ creative spirit is clear from the moment you enter and the menu sets exciting challenges for the kitchen and the palate. Old Bay spiced crab cakes are hot and savoury, while groups of famished carnivores devour the 3Bird rib platter, tackling tamarindglazed lamb, molasses and bourbon sticky pork, and tomato Cajun beef.

Toast BISTROS & BRASSERIES 146 Marchmont Road, EH9 1AQ, 0131 446 9873, toastedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sat 10am–9pm; Sun 10am–4pm. £12 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

A parade of paintings lines the room, while regulars and locals tuck into fragrant kedgeree, towering French toast with goat’s cheese and red onion marmalade, or hollandaise-glazed eggs Florentine. Plentiful open sandwiches compete for your attention with warm, homey plates of barley risotto or smoked-salmon frittata. In the evenings, a small but considered core menu has daily specials to add interest. Regardless of the time of day, luscious cakes abound.

NIGHT The Apartment Bistro BISTROS & BRASSERIES 11–13 Barclay Place, EH10 4HW, 0131 228 6456, apartmentrestaurant.com | Mon–Thu & Sun noon–4pm, 5–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–4pm, 5–10.30pm. £11 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Sticking to the appealing modus operandi of serving well-sourced, seasonal food, the Apartment’s relatively new owners have increased the turnover of dishes, changing them every couple of days. Fortunately the general idea of unfussy, top-to-bottom inviting dishes that take their cue from seasonal ingredients remains constant across the lunch and dinner menus all year round. There’s also a new focus on drinks, with quality names such as Somerset cider brandy, and wine list descriptions so oddball you’ll find yourself reading the whole page.

Bia Bistrot BISTROS & BRASSERIES 19 Colinton Road, EH10 5DP, 0131 452 8453, biabistrot.co.uk | Tue–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5–10pm. Closed Sun/Mon. £9.50 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

It’s what everyone wants to find, local or visitor: the hidden gem that, through clever use of ingredients, manages simultaneously to guarantee you a good meal, offer something

11 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH, EH10 4HN

STREET FOOD

If you don’t have time for a proper sit-down meal, there are plenty of places to grab a tasty bite on the go. Fancy some Bratwurst, crepes, curry or pizza?

On the Roll BRATWURST George Square, & South Bridge, Southside

Real German Bratwurst from real Germans, cooked on a grill on the back of a real bicycle that’s parked on George Square. On the Roll has a bit of a cult following among fellow cyclists and fans of the craft sausage, and they like to move around on that bicycle of theirs, so keep your eyes peeled when you’re in this part of town. But wherever they set up shop, the Bratwurst itself is always reliably tasty and fresh.

Tupiniquim BRAZILIAN Middle Meadow Walk, Southside, tupiniquim.co.uk

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Edinburgh is so dotted with no-longerin-use police boxes that it can sometimes look a bit like a set from Doctor Who. While some of the Tardis lookalikes stand empty, many have found a second life as teeny outlets for hot food and drinks on the go. Grab one of Tupiniquim’s extensive range of Brazilian crepes, sandwiches and specialities from its own converted police box at the top of Middle Meadow Walk,

popular with students and those who want something a little different from their lunch on the Meadows.

Bollywood: The Coffee Box CURRY AND COFFEE Bruntsfield Links, Southside

Edinburgh’s first and only curry and coffee box (or so it claims), with a great line in daily pakora. Inspired by the street food culture she grew up with in India, Nutan Bala left her job as a support worker and opened the Bollywood hatches. Except for a mixed vegetable dhal, which has proven so popular that it has become a fixture, the short simple menu varies each day. Chicken curry with pilau rice is seasoned to order and so the heat is tailored to your taste, while spice-studded parathas, or fried flat breads, are ideal for dipping in the hearty lentil and vegetable dhal.

George Square VARIOUS George Square

A concentration of stalls and street food in and around the gardens with Khushi’s, Scoop mobile kitchen and Zebra Food among the options this year.

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a bit unusual, and do it for blindingly good value. Roast bone marrow, Borders hare and surf clams are typical of an unpatronising, inventive menu. And with its muted, relatively un-styled appearance, it feels very much like the kind of authentic, laidback place where the focus is on the food, rather than the interior design brief.

El Quijote SPANISH 13a Brougham Street, EH3 9JS, 0131 478 2856, quijotetapas.co.uk | Mon–Thu 5–10pm; Fri–Sun 12.30–10pm. £20 (lunch/dinner)

The happy bustle of the well-fed diners clustered into El Quijote’s snug interior tells you all you need to know about this unassuming Tollcross tapas bar. Maria Giminez and head chef Oscar Mateos show off a different side to Spanish cuisine, eschewing predictable tapas in favour of Andalucian specialities such as salmorejo, a chilled soup garnished with salty ham and grated egg or tender pork cheeks stewed in an intense peppery liquor.

Indaba AFRICAN/SPANISH/SOUTH AMERICAN 3 Lochrin Terrace, EH3 9QJ, 0131 221 1554, edindaba.co.uk | Tue–Thu 5–10pm; Fri/Sat 5–11pm. Closed Sun/Mon. £16 (dinner)

Cosy little Indaba is tucked around the corner from the Cameo Cinema in Tollcross, and offers tapas with a difference and truly something for everyone. People with gluten and wheat intolerances will be delighted with a menu that fuses Spanish, South African, Venezuelan and Scottish cuisine. Meats include a spattering of chorizo dishes alongside haggis a la murciana (with spinach and pine nuts). Del mar dishes include a lovely gambas pil-pil with Indaba’s own chilli tomato sauce, and vegetarians should enjoy pisto murciano, an aubergine, tomato and pepper stew.

Kampong Ah Lee Malaysian Delight MALAYSIAN 28 Clerk Street, EH8 9HX, 0131 662 9050, kampongahlee.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–3pm, 5–11pm; Fri–Sun noon–11pm. £10.50 (lunch/ dinner)

A compact, canteen-style restaurant with a menu demonstrating the fusion nature of Malay cooking with multi-ethnic influences, such as Hacka, Hokkien and Hai Nan from China; Indian curries; tom yum from Thailand; and Indonesian rendang alongside Malay classics such as nasi lemak and mee goreng. The dishes are based around rice, noodles and soups, with mixed meats, seafood, tofu and plenty of vegetarian options available. With lower prices than its sister restaurant in Tollcross, this is the no-frills version of the Kampong / Kampung experience, but it’s satisfying all the same.

Mezbaan South Indian Restaurant INDIAN 14/14a Brougham Street, EH3 9JH, 0131 229 5578, mezbaan.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–3pm, 5–11pm. £12 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

South Indian restaurants offer a refreshing change from the Punjabi-based menus normally on offer in Edinburgh. Old favourites are still available for the less adventurous, but for anybody looking to experiment, Mezbaan is a great place to start. Wheat or gluten intolerant diners will be enjoy giant dosas made with rice and lentil flour. Although offering a range of meat and vegetarian dishes, the restaurant specialises in seafood. The benefits of having a chef who spends four days preparing his own garam masala spice blend are obvious.

Nonna’s Kitchen ITALIAN 45 Morningside Road, EH10 4AZ, 0131 466 6767, nonnas-kitchen.co.uk | Tue–Sun 10am–2.45pm, 5–10pm. Closed Mon. £13 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Owner Gino Stornaiuolo named his establishment in tribute to his two grandmothers, but it is the contribution of his parents that brings the restaurant to life. While father works his magic in the kitchen, mother charms regulars, tourists and drop-ins. Traditional starters, such as baked aubergine and mozzarella in a flavour-packed tomato

sauce, are enhanced by options that could include scallops, black pudding and pesto on a specials list equal in length to the menu. The nonnas would surely approve.

Peter’s Yard

Passorn THAI 23–23a Brougham Place, EH3 9JU, 0131 229 1537, passornthai.com | Mon 5–11pm; Tue–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5–11pm. Closed Sun. £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Cindy Sritsotorn has carved out a niche by holding true to her passion for good cooking and uncompromising commitment to quality ingredients. The mains selection includes an appropriately celestial angel curry, and fresh-spiced choo chee sea bass in a fragrant coconut and lemongrass sauce is good enough to cause a socially inappropriate episode of plate-licking. The food is done simply, but very well, and the exceptional quality of the meat and fish produce – delivered daily by local suppliers – speaks volumes about the attentive and precise approach.

Rhubarb SCOTTISH Prestonfield House, Priestfield Road, EH16 5UT, 0131 226 2303, prestonfield.com | Mon–Thu noon–2pm, 6.30–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–2pm, 6–11pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 6.30–10pm. £16.95 (set lunch) / £43 (dinner)

Prepare to be transported to a place of indulgence, located in the grand setting of Prestonfield House, where Rhubarb wows from start to finish. Pure decadence is reflected in the rich fabrics, evocative fragrances and delightful service. The à la carte menu is equally grand, showcasing tender slow-cooked lamb smoked with rosemary and served with crisp sweetbreads, liver royale and buttermilk potato mousseline. This is a unique experience, perfect for a special occasion, but the sumptuous surroundings can also be sampled with a reasonably priced table d’hote menu.

Rice Terraces FILIPINO 93 St Leonard’s Street, EH8 9QY, 0131 629 9877, rice-terraces.com | Tue–Fri 5–11pm; Sat/ Sun noon–11pm. Closed Mon. £12 (lunch/dinner)

Edinburgh’s only Filipino restaurant is a family-run affair with an informal, homely ambience. A welcome recent addition is the excellent value kamayan set menu, which features an array of meat and seafood dishes, while the à la carte options reflect the ‘East meets West’ fusion nature of Filipino cuisine. Starters include spring rolls with a garlic vinegar dip and chicken, and for the main course a whole squid comes stuffed with a faintly sweet concoction of minced pork and vegetables.

Sweet Melindas FISH 11 Roseneath Street, EH9 1JH, 0131 229 7953, sweetmelindas.co.uk | Tue–Sat noon–2pm, 6–10pm. Closed Sun/Mon. £13.50 (lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Being located a few doors down from Eddie’s hallowed Seafood Market means the freshest fish is literally on the doorstep. This, plus the fact that practically everything is homemade using some serious kitchen skills, means Sweet Melindas punches well above its weight. Mains show skilful handling: fillets of bass and bream are beautifully cooked, served on a tangle of spaghetti with crab and pecorino, while the soy, ginger and lemongrass sauce on the hake is a firm favourite.

Tanjore INDIAN 6–8 Clerk Street, EH8 9HX, 0131 478 6518, tanjore.co.uk/ | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5–10pm; Sat/Sun noon–3.30pm, 5–10pm. £11 (lunch/ dinner)

When you head to Tanjore, there are two reasons to bring an appetite. First, this is where to sample the finest Southern Indian cuisine in Edinburgh. Second, you’ll be tempted to order everything on the enticing, extensive menu. Giant, theatrical dosas dwarf the plates they’re served on, stuffed with your choice of fillings and accompanied by several chutneys that range from hot, garlicky tomato, through tart mint, coconut and chilli, to the majestic sambar.

Voujon INDIAN 107 Newington Road, EH9 1QW, 0131 667 5046, voujonedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sun 5.30–11.30pm. £18 (lunch/dinner)

Despite its setting away from the heart of town, Voujon has a decidedly slick, city-centre feel, with white table cloths and angular contemporary crockery. The primarily Bengali and North Indian menu features a solid number of usual suspects alongside a scattering of adventurous options. There’s a precision in the cooking that makes the dishes more fresh than fiery. Vegetarians are well catered for across the board and the accomplished selection of bread and rice options leave no stone unturned – the ghee bat basmati rice, fried in Indian butter and fresh onions, is a particular highlight.

Wing Sing Inn CHINESE 147–149 Dundee Street, EH11 1BP, 0131 228 6668 | Mon–Sun noon–2.30pm; 5–11pm. £12 (lunch/ dinner)

Pork lung, jellyfish and preserved eggs all feature here: popular standard fare for the many Chinese customers who visit, less so for the Scottish ones. Adventurous diners are rewarded richly: tender frogs’ legs come à la crispy chilli squid with the lightest of batters, while slivers of meat are served with crisp fungus and a glossy mahogany sauce in the deeply savoury Yu Hung pork. The food is interesting, unusual and seriously good, and really is the only reason to visit, as the Wing Sing is remarkably unremarkable otherwise.

surpassed by the grain at 56 North. Burgers are a big deal on the menu here, while for those after something a little lighter, there’s also a wide range of salads and topped flatbreads.

Greenmantle 133 Nicolson Street, EH8 9JP, 0131 662 8741, greenmantlepub.co.uk/ | Mon–Sat noon–1am; Sun 12.30pm–1am. £11 (lunch/dinner)

Priding themselves on their selection of single malts, the full range of whiskies is always changing, as are the four guest ales, which customers are welcome to taste before making up their minds. The food on offer is uncomplicated, traditional pub fare, the slight twist being that the burgers are made from buffalo meat from Puddledub in Fife. With a multitude of toppings available, customers can create their ideal buffalo, chicken or falafel burger.

Henricks Bar & Bistro 1 Barclay Place, EH10 4HW, 0131 229 2442, henricksbar.com | Mon–Sun 10am–1am (food till 10pm). £10.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

This bistro bar on the edge of the Meadows has carved a niche between formal dining and local pub grub. It attracts a pre-theatre crowd with the King’s nearby, as well as lunchtime couples, those seeking brunch at weekends, late-night drinkers and many in between. The compact menu covers the basics well without trying too hard and the wine list leans heavily to Australia, where the manager did a harvest in 2007.

The Royal Dick Bar & Bistro Summerhall, EH9 1 PL, 0845 874 3000, summerhall.co.uk/bar-cafe | Mon–Sun noon–1am (food till 10pm). £18 (lunch/dinner)

DRINKS The Blackbird 37–39 Leven Street, EH3 9LH, 0131 228 2280, theblackbirdedinburgh.co.uk | Mon–Sun 10am– 1am (food till 10pm). £12 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The orange bicycle riding high above the door would tell anyone who has been away from Leven Street for a while that the Auld Toll is no more and The Blackbird has taken flight. This gastro-influenced bar has a bright, contemporary interior which matches the sunny disposition of the staff, its menu offering up the likes of wild mushrooms on toast, pan-fried halibut fillet and a braised Scottish lamb shank.

56 North 6–8 West Crosscauseway, EH8 9JP, 0131 662 8860, fiftysixnorth.co.uk | Mon–Sun 11am–1am (food till 9pm). £10 (set lunch) / £16.50 (dinner)

With a drinks menu dominated by cocktails, spirits feature heavily in the arsenal of bottles behind the bar of this Newington establishment. From vodkas flavoured with kiwi, marmalade and vanilla, to gins sourced from the UK, Europe and USA, the grape is definitely

Summerhall’s Royal Dick bar/bistro is about adventure, and it’s an adventure just finding it: head through the grandiose entrance hall that once welcomed veterinary students, and it still feels like you shouldn’t run in the corridor. Out through a courtyard, and there’s the bar, with its (disinfected) operating table, animal bone wall art and enormous model ship. It feels like a house party thrown by an eccentric collector, with a drinks cabinet that includes highly recommended exclusive craft ales made by resident micro-brewery Barney’s Beer.

The Southern 22 South Clerk Street, EH8 9PR, 0131 662 8926, thesouthern.co.uk | Sun–Thu 10am–midnight; Fri/ Sat 10am–1am (food till 10pm). £12 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

A hot spot for beer drinkers, the Southern houses a great range of beers, both bottled and on tap, and many are from Scottish breweries. The food menu is weighted towards burgers, with a cornucopia of topping combos to grace the beef, chicken, venison and haggis patties.

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CITY GUIDE WEST END

Key venues: (1) Book Festival (2) Ghillie Dhu (3) HMV Picture House, Royal Lyceum, Traverse Theatre, Usher Hall

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‘THE WEST END IS THE CITY’S FULL-TIME CULTURAL FOCAL POINT’

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If the Southside is the nerve centre of the temporary Fringe venues, the West End stakes a claim to being Edinburgh’s full-time cultural focal point. Head along Lothian Road to find a cluster of top theatres, with the Lyceum, Usher Hall and Traverse nestling as close neighbours. The

Traverse bar is a great place to grab a drink and a bite to eat between shows; it’s open all day and almost unique among theatre bars for being so friendly, unpretentious and not extortionately priced. For a movie fix, cross the road to

the city’s famous Filmhouse, the independent cinema that annually hosts the extensive and imaginative Edinburgh International Film Festival in June. All year round there’s a reliably interesting programme of film on offer, with everything from blockbusters to arthouse releases. Aside from the big venues, the wide, sweeping streets can make the West End feel a little spartan when compared to its cramped but ever-lively eastern neighbours, the Old Town and Southside. It’s a strange mix of grandeur and slight seediness: a dedicated culture vulture such as yourself will probably wish to avoid the array of strip joints scattered through the area. The West End has its charming and innocent side too, though. The Wonderland toy shop has an extensive collection of beautiful models of all types to please kids and grown-up collectors alike. To the north and west of Lothian Road you’ll find the West End village, a little collection of fashion shops and restaurants that has until recently been cruelly hidden away by ongoing tram works west of Shandwick Place. Venture further out west to find Edinburgh Zoo and Murrayfield Stadium, two big local landmarks that often attract huge crowds. Only one of them has pandas, though. (Charlotte Runcie)

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WEST END CITY GUIDE

SHOPPING Arkangel & Felon 4 William Street, EH3 7NH, arkangelandfelon.com, 0131 226 4466.

An independent women’s fashion boutique based in the West End, Arkangel & Felon was established in 2010 by former freelance stylist and props buyer Sarah Cosgrove. Describing their stock as ‘eclectic yet wearable’, their extensive and stylish clothing range is augmented by bags, jewellery, scarves, interior items and even wallpapers.

Boobytrap Boutique 15 William Street, EH3 7NG, boobytrapboutique.co.uk.

Fantastically named lingerie specialist, stocking cool, hard-to-find scanty labels like Princess Tam Tam. There’s a bit of a Sex and the City vibe about the place, with cupcakes and freshly brewed coffee in the in-store café to up your indulgency quota.

Helen Bateman 16 William Street, EH3 7NH, helenbateman.com, 0131 220 4495.

Helen Bateman is a popular lady among shoe-lovers in Edinburgh. Her independent shoe brand combines a range of useful ‘basics’ – those shoes you’ll want to invest in again and again – with more exclusive limited runs that change each season in a beautiful spectrum of colours, fabrics and textures. The shop on William Street also stocks a constantly changing array of bags, scarves, belts and jewellery.

Odyssey Boutique 39–41 William Street, EH3 7LW, odysseyboutique.co.uk, 0131 220 2908.

An independent boutique selling lingerie by brands including Miss Mandalay, Freya, Fleur of England and Lascivious, as well as monochrome, tropical and geometric swimwear styles. They also have a few strapless/ backless underwear solutions on offer, for when summer clothes create sartorial dilemmas.

Paper Tiger 6a/8 Stafford Street, EH3 7AU, papertiger.ltd.uk, 0131 226 2390.

Alongside beautifully designed wrapping paper and greetings cards, Paper Tiger also stocks a gorgeous selection of unique travellers’ journals, address books and photo albums sourced from around the world.

Pippin 30 Haymarket Terrace, EH12 5JZ, pippingifts.com, 0131 347 8657.

Independent gift boutique with an eclectic mix of jewellery and crafts. Customers are also able to peek through the Pippin Workshop door and witness traditional silversmithing skills firsthand.

EATING

Red Squirrel

Opening times can change during the festival. For more great ideas on where to eat and drink, visit food.list.co.uk or pick up a copy of The List Eating and Drinking Guide 2013.

MORNING Café Milk CAFÉS 232 Morrison Street, EH3 8EA, 0131 629 6022, cafemilk.co.uk | Mon–Fri 7.30am–4pm; Sat 8am–4pm; Sun 8am–3pm. £6 (lunch)

The look is 1930s industrial: an old dairy maybe, with worn wooden benches and Formica tabletops, where antique-shop cutlery awaits, like work tools, in Lyle’s golden syrup tins. Bright, brilliant colours are saved for the food. Natural, fresh, seasonal ingredients, simply prepared from scratch every day, shine in the flavours of Mediterranean and Middle/ Far-Eastern lunches, brunches and breakfasts.

Jacob Artisan Bakery CAFÉS 62 Haymarket Terrace, EH12 5LA, 0131 347 8884, patisseriejacob.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8.30am–4.30pm; Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 10am–4pm. £9.50 (lunch)

Having given up his popular Gorgie bakery, Jacob Philip has moved more ambitiously upmarket with his spacious new Haymarket café sited in a freshly decorated corner unit with a high ceiling and lots of classic touches. Integral to the business, of course, is Jacob’s handmade line of chocolates, truffles, bread, cookies and cakes, with soup and sandwiches also on offer.

One Square

Loudon’s Café & Bakery CAFÉS Lochrin Square, 94b Fountainbridge, EH3 9QA, 0131 228 9774, loudons-cafe.co.uk/ | Mon–Sun 8am–6pm. £8.50 (lunch)

A light, open-plan warehouse, with wall-toceiling windows, steel girders, exposed zinc pipes and rafters, and simple, trendy IKEA tables and chairs, with the odd leather sofa for lounging. Weekday and weekend menus serve breakfast from 8am–noon, and lunch/brunch from noon–3pm. A decent Sunday brunch features ‘eggs benny’ with sautéed spinach, while a regular table laden with its homemade cakes includes enticing gluten- and nut-free fancies.

Le Marché Français FRENCH 9a West Maitland Street, EH12 5DS, 0131 221 1894, le-marche-francais.co.uk | Mon–Thu 7am–5.30pm; Fri/Sat 7am–9.30pm. Closed Sun. £6.95 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

This combined deli, cafe and restaurant promises a taste of French food throughout the day, in a laidback, rustic style that deliberately contrasts with more formal French eateries. The dining area at the rear hits the right notes with its Parisian prints, vintage wine bottles and simple wooden furniture, while the keenly priced menu mixes Gallic staples such as snails and tartiflette alongside charcuterie plates and salads that showcase the deli’s produce.

Kasturi INDIAN GOURMET RESTAURANT

A Culinary Experience to Remember www.kasturi-ed.co.uk highly rated on tripadvisor

BISTROS & BRASSERIES 1 Festival Square, EH3 9SR, 0131 221 6422, onesquareedinburgh.co.uk | Sun–Thu 7am–10pm; Fri/Sat 7am–10.30pm. (Snack menu Mon–Sun 7am–11pm). £18 (lunch) / £23 (dinner)

One Square at the Sheraton hotel encompasses bar, restaurant and large outdoor dining terrace, all with a commanding outlook over Festival Square. The hard-edged and stylish interior is, as you might expect for an international hotel chain, somewhat corporate in feel, but head chef Malcolm Webster’s appealing and well-constructed brasserie menu lends some personality to proceedings. Robust and modern British cooking is the order of the day and it’s underscored by some decent sourcing and a thoughtful seam of Scottish dishes too.

Vittles CAFÉS: WEE PLACES 42 Home Street, EH3 9LZ, 0131 261 8786 | Mon– Fri 8.30am–4.30pm; Sat 10am–4pm. £6 (lunch)

Vittles’ original name was ‘Picnic’, hence the fresh, outdoor theme of garden furniture, tartan rug upholstery, astro-turf ‘grass’ and tea party coffee cups. But Home Street’s new micro delicafé packs plenty of vittles (lit. ‘the things you need to live’) for a picnic lunch or breakfast – or you can sit inside, albeit in a space so wee it has a communal, table-share policy.

NOON Café Modern One ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art One, 75 Belford Road, EH4 3DR, 0131 332 8600, heritageportfolio.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm; Sat noon–2.30pm; Sun noon–2.30pm. [Coffee & cakes: Mon–Fri 9am–4.30pm; Sat/Sun: 10am–4.30pm]. £9 (set lunch)

Indoors and out, Café Modern One is heaving with art-lovers, tourists and locals alike. The gallery is in a glorious setting, with the neat sculpture and herb garden round the back providing an ideal spot for outside lounging. The simple menu offers well-prepared meat and veggie options that are composed from local, seasonal produce and made from scratch. Portions are princely in this self-service cafeteria, but it’s worth trying to leave room for coffee and home-baking.

Café Modern Two ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art Two, 73 Belford Road, EH4 3DS, 0131 624 6273, heritageportfolio.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–2.30pm. [Coffee & cakes served: 10am–4.30pm; Afternoon tea served: 2–4.30pm]. £11 (lunch)

Entering the stately Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art Two by its Georgian façade ensures a real sense of occasion. In contrast to its fellow venue across the way, Café Modern Two provides friendly, unruffled table service across two rooms where you can take refreshments in the company of the colossal Eduardo Paolozzi ‘Vulcan’ sculpture. The choice is limited but cleverly put together, and portions are anything but petite. With food made on-site, tastes remain fresh, with meat, vegetarian and glutenfree options available.

near west end of princes street ideal for shows in city centre & west end perfect for shows at the assembly rooms

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L’escargot Blanc FRENCH 17 Queensferry Street, EH2 4QW, 0131 226 1890, lescargotblanc.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–3pm, 5.30–10pm. Closed Sun. £10.90 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Step through the modest shop front on busy Queensferry Street, climb the wooden stairs and be enfolded in the warm embrace of L’escargot Blanc. This laidback sister to Broughton’s L’escargot Bleu has bags of bistro-style charm. Food here is the equivalent of a big Gallic hug, with creamy soups, steaming pots of mussels, hearty casseroles and steaks all regular features on the menu.

Filmhouse Café Bar ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS 88 Lothian Road, EH3 9BZ, 0131 229 5932, filmhousecinema.com | Mon–Sun 10am–10pm. £10 (lunch/dinner)

An Edinburgh cultural institution, this independent cinema gem incorporates a popular café-bar that’s fast-moving and often busy, offering good-value grub in over-sized portions. An array of veggie staples includes hummus, vegetable lasagne and falafels, meat-eaters have choices like chilli con carne and a chicken dish of the day and a range of daily specials include juicy cherry tomato and rocket pasta with crunchy garlic bread, and there are curries and nachos for all.

Galvin Brasserie de Luxe BISTROS & BRASSERIES Caledonian Hotel, Princes Street, EH1 2AB, 0131 222 8988, galvinrestaurants.com | Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm, 6–10pm; Sat 12.30–3pm, 6–10pm; Sun 12.30–3pm, 6–9.30pm. £15.50 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

It might be the ‘informal’ sibling to the Pompadour upstairs, but in both atmosphere and price this new brasserie from renowned London chefs Chris and Jeff Galvin isn’t somewhere for a quick functional bite. Your (best) coat will be taken and a snowy napkin

flicked onto your knee. Curved around the hotel lounge, this chic restaurant – all 1920s grey, blue and monochrome – feels like a stand-alone restaurant rather than a hotel dining room, and is as elegant as the cooking is consistently flawless.

Gandhi’s INDIAN 50 East Fountainbridge, EH3 9BH, 0131 228 6666, gandhisrestaurant.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–2pm, 5–11pm. £6.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Tucked around the corner from Lothian Road, Gandhi’s is what a kindly estate agent might call bijou. It’s a cheery place though, warmly (if rather kaleidoscopically) lit and full of friendly enthusiasm. Set thali lunches offer a well-priced package of snack, main, veg, rice and nan, while evenings feature buffets as well as full à la carte options. Vegetarians are well served, the sabzi jalfrezi being great example of a dish that is built around the vegetables rather than just sauce without meat. Rich, sharply spiced and plentiful, its vegetable medley holds its own against the Kathmandu chicken, despite the latter’s deep, mellow and sweet lentil base.

Lovecrumbs CAFÉS 155 West Port, EH3 9DP, 0131 629 0626, lovecrumbs.co.uk | Mon–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat 10.30am–6pm; Sun noon–6pm. £5 (cake and coffee)

Having started out selling their cakes to other cafés, bakers Rachel and Hollie now have a place of their own. The mix-and-match assortment of tables, chairs and crockery creates a rough and ready chic well suited to West Port’s colourful combination of art college and independent shops. Daily options run from savoury scones, through restrained tarts, to

gloriously over the top triple-decker layered sponges. Strong coffee from Artisan Roast, teas from Anteaques and Coco hot chocolate complete the offering.

La P’tite Folie FRENCH Tudor House, 9 Randolph Place, EH3 7TE, 0131 225 8678, laptitefolie.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–3pm, 6–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–3pm, 6–11pm. Closed Sun. £10.50 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

For 16 years La P’tite Folie has been part of Edinburgh’s dining scene, initially in the citycentre bustle of Frederick Street and joined,

Henderson’s @ St John’s VEGETARIAN St John’s Terrace, 3 Lothian Road, EH1 2EP, 0131 229 0212, hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk/ st-johns.php | Mon–Sat 10am–4.30pm; Sun 11.30am–4pm. £10.50 (lunch)

Bringing the organic, seasonal attitudes of Edinburgh’s original veggie restaurant to this principled corner of the West End, in summer there’s the wide churchyard patio on which to eat wraps, baked potatoes, soups and quiches featuring that month’s freshest veg. The menu features classic, some might say retro, vegetarian staples of tofu-strewn salads, cheesy nachos and cheddar potato croquettes. As ever Henderson’s caters not just to vegetarian, but also vegan and gluten-free requirements.

Acoustic music sets Quiz night on Wednesdays DJs on Fridays and Bands on Saturdays Beer garden Cocktails, Wines and Real Beers Lebowskis Edinburgh Venue Number 233 0131 446 1779 . edinburgh@lebowskis.co.uk facebook.com/LebowskisBarEdinburgh

@LebowskisBarEdi

CULTURE TRAIL

Our beloved city has starred in many a popular book, film and chart hit. Jaclyn Arndt takes you on a tour of Auld Reekie’s most recognisable cultural hot spots Edinburgh’s top pop culture destination may well be the Elephant House (21 George IV Bridge EH1 1EN), the café where JK Rowling is said to have written the beginnings of Harry Potter, but it’s far from the only one. Framed by the Elephant House’s back window is George Heriot’s School – the purported inspiration behind Hogwarts – bordering which is the Vennel, a lengthy staircase leading to the Grassmarket. Here Maggie Smith taught her pupils to walk with their heads up (up!) in the film of Muriel Spark’s 1961 novel, The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie. On the opposite side of the castle, in Stockbridge, St Stephen Street served as an olde-timey London for Julia Roberts in Mary Reilly, the 1996 spin on Edinburgh writer Robert Louis Stevenson’s classic Jekyll and Hyde tale. And speaking of duplicity, just around the corner at 3 South East Circus Place stands the former rag’n’bone shop of one Mrs Doubtfire, who sparked the imagination of Anne Fine, whose children’s book Madame Doubtfire led directly to Robin Williams in a dress. Across the way, at 6 North East Circus Place, director Danny Boyle captured three self-absorbed flatmates (including Ewan McGregor) as they transformed into psychotic criminals for his first feature, 1994’s Shallow Grave.

A quick half-mile jaunt south lies Princes Street, the scene of the famous opening sequence of Boyle’s cult-classic second feature, Trainspotting. Chased by security guards after ripping off a department store, Renton and Spud fly down the main thoroughfare before jumping a set of steps and hightailing it into the Calton Road entrance of Waverley station – whose platforms played a starring role in the 1959 remake of Hitchcock thriller The 39 Steps. Out of the station’s Market Street doors, the 104 differently coloured marble stairs of the Scotsman Steps (pictured above; a permanent installation by Turner Prize-winning artist Martin Creed) lead quickly up to the Royal Mile, at whose end looms the pièce de résistance of Edinburgh’s telegenic landscape: Arthur’s Seat. Put into the spotlight in 1981 by Academy Award Best Picturewinner Chariots of Fire, the peak more recently served as picnic locale for Anne Hathaway and Jim Sturgess in 2011’s One Day. Venture a few miles north to Leith, the once rough-andtumble neighbourhood at the heart of Irvine Welsh’s Trainspotting. Not just a real-life home to Welsh, Leith counts among its progeny the pop artist Eduardo Paolozzi and folk rockers The Proclaimers.

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WEST END CITY GUIDE

ten years ago, by the venue that has come to overshadow the original, set behind a quirky Tudor façade looking out on the cobbles of more sedate Randolph Place at the West End. The informality of the French bistro food adds to that sense of ease: salad comes in a communal bowl, fish with a simple sauce and accompaniment, steak frîtes just as you’d expect.

Timberyard SCOTTISH 10 Lady Lawson Street, EH3 9DS, 0131 221 1222, timberyard.co | Tue–Sat noon–2pm, 5.30–10pm. Closed Sun/Mon. £14 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

Formerly of the well-regarded Atrium, the Radford family has converted a cavernous old timber yard into a warm, beautifully designed space, the industrial edges softened by clever use of wood, natural fabrics and light. A short, simply written menu based on carefully sourced local ingredients is divided into four sections, through which chef Ben Radford displays both accomplished cooking skills and a well-trained palate. The innovative cocktail list features some home-made cordials, which can be enjoyed in the indoor or outside bar areas. This is the place to come for a unique dining experience, at once sophisticated, contemporary and relaxed.

Traverse Bar Café FESTIVAL VENUES 10 Cambridge Street, EH1 2ED, 0131 228 5383, traverse.co.uk | Mon–Sat 11am–8pm. Closed Sun. £15 (lunch/dinner)

Happy birthday to the Traverse Theatre. In 2013 the venue celebrates its Golden Jubilee and to mark the occasion its fondly regarded basement bar/cafe has an updated menu. Fried sea bass with crushed new potatoes, or tagliatelle with mushrooms, chestnuts and radicchio are added to such popular staples as soups, haggis (veggie and non) and nachos. Food is served all day, from breakfast to light bites, lunch and late options.

Zucca

China Town

ITALIAN 15–17 Grindlay Street, EH3 9AX, 0131 221 9323, zuccarestaurant.co.uk | Tue–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5–9pm; Fri/Sat noon–2.30pm, 5–10.30pm. Closed Sun/Mon (except if performance at Usher Hall/ Lyceum). [Café open Tue–Sat 11am–late]. £9.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

CHINESE 3 Atholl Place, EH3 8HP, 0131 228 3333, chinatownedinburgh.com | Mon–Thu noon–2pm, 5.30–11.30pm; Fri noon–2pm, 5.30pm–12.30am; Sat/Sun 5.30–11.30pm. Closed Tue. £9.30 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

As veterans of the Edinburgh restaurant scene, Zucca’s owners know the importance of playing to their strengths. That means keeping theatre goers happy with snacks from a restricted menu in the downstairs bar while the restaurant upstairs focuses on high-quality food and efficient service at attractive prices. Diners who are not heading for a show have a chance to cogitate over a well-balanced menu that features starters such as a char-grilled vegetable salad, uniting flavours redolent of Tuscan sunshine, or carpaccio, which combines Scotch beef with Italian components to create a flavour-packed dish.

NIGHT Castle Terrace SCOTTISH 33/35 Castle Terrace, EH1 2EL, 0131 229 1222, castleterracerestaurant.com | Tue–Sat noon–2pm, 6.30–10pm. Closed Sun/Mon. £26.50 (set lunch) / £44 (dinner)

When you emerge as the offshoot of a fairly flawless Michelin-starred restaurant there is only one way to avoid playing second fiddle. And that is, of course, to win your own star. Chef-patron Dominic Jack may buy into partner-chef Tom Kitchin’s ‘Nature to Plate’ emphasis on local ingredients and unstinting seasonality, but imitate he does not. Even the lunch set menu is a culinary extravaganza of canapés, amuse bouche, three courses and petit fours, all immaculately, but not overly fussily presented. Fillet of North Sea cod comes translucent against a bold, binary colour squid cannelloni, laced together by a glaze of garlic and parsley.

For most of its short life, China Town, on the corner of Atholl Place in Edinburgh’s West End, has been sitting slap bang in the middle of the capital’s notorious tramworks. Thomas Chan has succeeded in building up a loyal clientele attracted by the restaurant’s quality cuisine and pleasantly tranquil ambience. Highlights from the à la carte menu include starters of sweet scallops served on skewers with a satay sauce and juicy, spiced and salted spare ribs. Meat dishes, which come in generous portions, include roast pork char sui with green pepper in black bean sauce and tender roast duck chow mein.

Chop Chop CHINESE 248 Morrison Street, EH3 8DT, 0131 221 1155, chop-chop.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–2pm, 5.30–10pm; Sat noon–2pm, 5–10pm; Sun 12.30–2.30pm, 5–10pm. £15 (lunch/dinner)

With a plain and pleasant interior that’s more mess hall than Manchuria and a noisy, welcoming buzz about it, Chop Chop has built its popularity and reputation around its homemade dumplings, which are served boiled or fried with assorted mixed meat, seafood and vegetable fillings. There’s also a wider menu worth exploring and a mix-and-match, share-as-it-arrives approach is recommended. It shares an identical menu with its sister outlet in Leith.

Edinburgh Larder Bistro BISTROS & BRASSERIES 1a Alva Street, EH2 4PH, 0131 225 4599, edinburghlarder.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10pm; Sun 11am–3pm. £11.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

For anyone with even a passing interest in good Scottish food, the Edinburgh Larder Bistro’s menu reads like a reassuring promise of things to come – and if you’re a visitor, you’d be hard pressed to find a better showcase for this region’s produce. Indeed the first question that springs to mind is how on earth they can dish this lot up for such reasonable prices, and why others don’t. The price question is answered to some measure by delicate portion sizes, but that simply means you’ll be able to fit in three courses. They’ve worked wonders with an often dodgy basement space as well – decked out in olive green, with a clever outdoor-indoor space that adds interest.

First Coast BISTROS & BRASSERIES 97–101 Dalry Road, EH11 2AB, 0131 313 4404, firstcoast.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–2pm, 5–10.30pm. Closed Sun. £11.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

For exactly a decade, First Coast has been an oasis of tasteful cheer in the relatively underserved area of Dalry. Prices have remained almost static for years, with the result that now they offer eye-poppingly good value for thoughtful, reliably good food. The warren-like space serves a variety of groups, from simple dinners for two, to big parties, and the drinks list deserves a mention for being concise, keenly priced and really cared about.

Illegal Jack’s MEXICAN 113–117 Lothian Road, EH3 9AN, 0131 622 7499, illegaljacks.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm. £11 (lunch/dinner)

This is fast food, but with heart and soul, taste and decent nourishment in a place run with care and commitment. Prime Scotch beef steak is slapped on a hot grill for the South West’s meaty take on Mexico’s burritos, tacos and quesadillas. A vat of witchy-looking black beans lacks eye appeal but they’ve been spiced and simmered down to the apogee of ‘be-allyou-can-be’ beany-ness.

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CITY GUIDE WEST END

Kampung Ali Malaysian Delight MALAYSIAN 97–101 Fountainbridge, EH3 9QG, 0131 228 5069, kampungali.com | Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5–11pm; Fri–Sun noon–11pm. £7.80 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Kampung Ali is the younger, more westernised sister of the original Kampong Ah Lee in Clerk Street. Larger in size, she appears that bit more sophisticated than her smaller, plainer sibling. Both excel in the preparation of Malay street food but Kampung Ali’s menu is somewhat more streetwise, with lists of dishes based around rice, noodles or ‘big bowl’ soups. With seafood and vegetarian options on offer, as well as a great weekday ‘lunchbox deal’, little sister serves something for everyone, modern or traditional.

Kanpai JAPANESE 8–10 Grindlay Street, EH3 9AS, 0131 228 1602, kanpaisushi.co.uk | Tue–Sun noon–2.30pm, 5–10.30pm. Closed Mon. £20 (lunch/(dinner)

Kanpai is grown-up, in every sense. It is sleek and stylish with conspiratorial corners, soft lighting and elegant plates of all shapes and sizes, or you can sit at the sushi bar and watch your pretty-as-a-picture special combo sashimi being assembled. In addition to a wide-ranging sushi and sashimi selection, perfect sharing fare in the form of Tokyo rolls and takoyaki (octopus balls) sit happily alongside classics such as soba noodles and gyoza.

Kasturi INDIAN 35–37 Shandwick Place, EH2 4RG, 0131 228 2441, kasturi-ed.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–2pm, 5–11pm. £7.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Kasturi’s bright yet relaxing green and white décor gives an atmosphere of spearmint freshness. Any panic caused by the sheer scale of options is eased by the helpful presence of recommendations for accompanying side dishes and sauces. The tangy pathia sauce recommended to go with the tandoori mixed

Gandhi’s

Buffet Street Food Chai House

Lunch £7.95 (From 12pm) Dinner £11.95 (From 5pm) Under 8

£6.95

All you can eat 50 East Fountainbridge Edinburgh, EH3 9BH Tel:0131 228 6666

www.gandhis restaurant.co.uk

Lovecrumbs grill works well with the meat feast that arrives at the table. The attention of those who keep an eye out for more unusual ingredients will be drawn by the presence of catfish on the menu, and the flavours and texture of the fish amritsury starter are winningly complementary.

modern. Delicate, crisp tempura and deep, warming bowls of ramen are complemented by specials such as grilled aubergine with miso sauce and seared swordfish.

Kyloe Restaurant & Grill

The Cloisters

SCOTTISH The Rutland Hotel, 1–3 Rutland Street, EH1 2AE, 0131 229 3402, kyloerestaurant.com | Sun–Thu noon–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–11pm. £25 (lunch) / £35 (dinner)

26 Brougham Street, EH3 9JH, 0131 221 9997 | Mon–Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am; Sun 12:30pm–midnight. £12 (lunch/dinner)

Kyloe (meaning ‘cattle’) is looking to fill a niche in the Edinburgh restaurant scene, and that niche is meat, meat, meat. Cows are everywhere – the statue outside, the paintings on the wall, the cowhide furniture and the board that displays all the raw cuts on offer. Steaks are definitely the focus here: they are ‘certified pedigree Aberdeen Angus, from local Scottish farms where the cows are 100% grass-fed and hung for a minimum of 21 days’ – and they are really good. As are the accompanying side dishes: chunky beef-dripping chips are a must, as is the savoy cabbage with bacon.

The Pompadour by Galvins FRENCH Caledonian Hotel, Princes Street, EH1 2AB, 0131 222 8777, galvinrestaurants.com | Tue–Sat 6.30–10pm. £58/£68 (set dinner)

Michelin-starred chefs Chris and Jeff Galvin shoot for an Edinburgh star at their Pompadour, secreted away in a sanctum of the Caledonian Hotel. It is a fittingly fine dining room, with castle view and a giant chandelier centrepiece among the Victoriana. The setting is splendid, and service impeccable. Whether you opt for the menu gourmand or go à la carte there are touches that please and surprise at every turn, in every dish. Assured mains include roast monkfish, and venison loin with turnip in curly fries form and red cabbage puree.

Sushiya JAPANESE 19 Dalry Road, EH11 2BQ, 0131 313 3222, sushiya. co.uk | Tue–Thu & Sun noon–2.30m, 5–10.30pm; Fri noon–2.30pm, 5–11pm; Sat noon–3pm, 5–11pm. Closed Mon. £16 (lunch/dinner)

Edinburgh’s bite-sized taste of Tokyo, as tiny, bright and inviting as the futo maki sushi. With only 25 covers it is undeniably small, but everything at Sushiya is done well, from the stylish bowls and plates to a range of sushi that’s wide and exciting, traditional and

DRINKING

Despite the name and former-church setting, the only monks you’ll find in The Cloisters are those behind the bar – in the form of guest beers such as the fruity (and potent) Westmalle, brewed by Belgian Trappists. They’d no doubt approve of the no-frills approach to decor too; this is a bar that doesn’t pander to posers. Instead, regulars come simply to enjoy intriguing ales, good-natured atmosphere and agreeable, no-nonsense grub.

The Hanging Bat 133 Lothian Road, EH3 9AB, 0131 229 0759, thehangingbat.com | Sun–Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am. £8 (lunch/dinner)

A gilt-framed blackboard charts 20 innovative, ever-changing British beers (6 casks, 14 kegs, and the Bat’s own weekly brew), and the hardwood menu lists 150 bottles of craft beers and 35 gin distillations. Draft beer is sold in third-pint measures, or two thirds of a pint (saying farewell to warm, flat dregs). The Scottish-made, home-smoked dogs are super tasty and good value, but the sides are sensational: beefy, smoky ‘burnt beans’ and refreshing ‘kimchi slaw’ with lime and chilli.

The Huxley 1–3 Rutland Street, EH1 2AE, 0131 229 3402, thehuxley.co.uk | Mon–Sun 8am–1am (food till 10pm). £13 (lunch/dinner)

The former Rutland Bar, now the upmarket Huxley, occupies a prime spot in the West End with its bright, glass-fronted surround doing a lot of the work in setting the scene. It’s the epitome of a modern style bar with a cocktail menu and well-stocked craft beer fridge. The decor includes a stylishly mismatched blend of monogrammed leather sofas and tweed-reupholstered cinema seats, while the menu offers a selection of faux-trad bar meals centred around gourmet hot dogs and steak burgers. Also available are breakfasts until noon, sandwiches until 5pm and lighter snacks well into the evening.

Lebowskis 18 Morrison Street, EH3 8BJ, 0131 466 1779, lebowskis.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–1am (food till 9pm). £15 (lunch/dinner)

You don’t have to be a massive fan of the Coen Brothers’ 1998 movie to enjoy Lebowskis, but it can’t hurt. The White Russians are dedicated to characters (The Maude, The Jeffrey) and key objects (The Toe) in The Big Lebowski with a film quote underpinning their appearance on the menu. Lebowskis are especially proud of their burgers, which are a towering feat of engineering served on wooden boards.

Red Squirrel 21 Lothian Road, EH1 2DJ, 0131 229 9933, fullerthomson.com | Mon–Sat 9.30am–1am; Sun 12.30am–midnight. £12 (set lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

Red Squirrel follows a recipe of premium burgers and beer similar to its older sibling Holyrood 9a – indeed the menus at both bars are practically identical. The feel here is perhaps more diner than pub, but that’s not to say it’s not also a drinkers’ bar, as the impressive beer selection and substantial after-work or pre-show crowds attest.

The WestRoom 3 Melville Place, EH3 7PR, 0131 629 9868, thewestroom.co.uk | Mon–Thu 10am–midnight; Thu/Fri 10am–1am; Sat 10am–1am; Sun 10am– midnight. £16 (lunch/dinner)

Whether you’re a true cocktail aficionado or can’t tell a Manhattan from a mojito, the WestRoom’s extensive and engaging cocktail menu is sure to intrigue and delight. The staff here seriously know a thing or two when it comes to mixology, and are happy to guide customers through the list, or make up something off menu to suit specific tastes. Almost inevitably, the food plays second fiddle compared to the vibrant creations coming from behind the bar.

Whighams Wine Cellars 13 Hope Street, EH2 4EL, 0131 225 8674, whighams.com | Mon–Thu noon–midnight; Fri/Sat noon–1am; Sun noon–midnight (food till 10pm). £10 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

If you are a lover of both wine and seafood, then Whighams has pretty much got it covered. The bar’s candlelit cellar atmosphere hosts a daily changing menu featuring Shetland mussels, smoked salmon and pan-fried fillet of sea bream. A wine is helpfully suggested for each course and everything is brought to your table with warm efficiency.

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LEITH & BROUGHTON STREET CITY GUIDE

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Key venues: (1) Playhouse (2) Greenside Despite an unfair reputation as a rough neighbourhood (thanks, in so small part, to the lingering influence of Trainspotting), Leith is, in fact, a creative and self-confident community with a friendly nature. Some diehard residents would have you believe that Leith isn’t even a part of Edinburgh, but an independent republic of its own. It certainly has a great deal in the way of interesting shops and bars as well as culture and history, and the distinct identy of a working sea port colours the whole area. Leith’s southernmost tip begins at the highest point of Leith Walk, beside Calton Hill, The Playhouse and Omni Centre multiplex (those same diehard Leithers often claim to have palpitations if ever forced to venture south of the neighbouring John Lewis), and extends north towards the busy dockyards and gentrified waterfront of the Shore. On your way down the hill, look out for street art in the form of pavement paintings, shop front murals and a parade of banners on Leith Walk, many proclaiming ‘I Love Leith’. The Fringe tends not to intrude much into the area at all, so it can be a good place to escape the crowds and get a taste of ‘the real Edinburgh’ during August. You’ll be rewarded with quirky and

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beautiful bars such as Woodland Creatures on Leith Walk, which has a beer garden accessed through a wardrobe; Nobles on Constitution Street with its great live music, Victorian-stained glass decor and all-day brunch at weekends; and the idiosyncratic Roseleaf, purveyors of cocktails served in teapots. Right down at Ocean Terminal, the big shopping centre on the waterfront, you can also dip into the Royal Yacht Britannia, one of Edinburgh’s most visited tourist attractions. Broughton Street forms a right angle to the west of Leith Walk’s southern end, an avenue of delis, bistros and independent shops. Take home some of Edinburgh’s finest sausages from artisan butcher Crombies, or wander down the hill to find Life Story, a trove of carefully selected fashion, homewares and tempting bits and pieces. Back at the top of Leith Walk you’ll find Edinburgh’s increasingly busy LGBT quarter, with CC Blooms, Planet Out, GHQ, Cafe Habana and The Street all forming a lively nighttime circle of queer goings-on (See Rainbow City on p155 for more on Edinburgh’s gay scene). It’s all in the shadow of Calton Hill, which you can climb for a beautiful view of the city and one of the few high points where you can see Edinburgh Castle, Arthur’s Seat and the Firth of Forth all at once. (Charlotte Runcie) list.co.uk/festival | Edinburgh Festival Guide 2013 | THE LIST 149

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CITY GUIDE BROUGHTON STREET ADVERTISING FEATURE

BROUGHTON STREET It may be just one street, but it packs a punch in Edinburgh’s independent shopping, eating and drinking scene. From quirky design boutiques to decadent dinners and cool drinks, you can while away a whole day dipping in and out of its stylish nooks and crannies

LIFE STORY

THE BAKEHOUSE

53 London Street, EH3 6EX, 0131 629 9699, lifestoryshop.com

32c Broughton Street, Edinburgh, EH1 3SB, Tel: 0131 557 1157, www.thebakehousecompany.co.uk

Life Story is owned by designers Fee and Adam Storey, passionate about good design and inspired by the cool, quirky and creative. Their vision of contemporary living has helped create a store that offers customers only honestly made items that the owners believe to be beautiful, useful, and that contribute to ‘a life lived well’, spanning an eclectic mix of clothing, homewares, furniture and taxidermy.

Fuel your Festival with The Bakehouse’s first rate coffee and freshly homemade, locally sourced food. It’s open from breakfast time and is the perfect base from which to plan your day. Everything is available to take away too, so you can eat well on the move between events. ‘Everything you want from a café’ (Edinburgh Food & Drink Guide).

THE OUTHOUSE

BONSAI BAR BISTRO

12A Broughton Street Lane, EH1 3LY, 0131 557 6668, outhouse-edinburgh. co.uk

14 Broughton Street, EH1 3RH, 0131 557 5093, bonsaibarbistro.co.uk

The Outhouse bar is a hidden gem down a lane just off the top of Broughton Street. Independent, unique and welcoming, you can sample world beers, cocktails, a heated beer garden, showcases of local artists and the best music in town – including world class jazz during the festival. What’s not to like?

The latest addition to Edinburgh’s burgeoning Japanese food scene is the funkiest yet. B-street hipsters chow down on a fantastic variety of maki, nigiri,and sashimi, as well as gaijin rolls and hand rolls. If sushi’s not your bag, there are also plenty of hot favourites available – teppanyaki, teriyaki and delicious plump gyoza dumplings. Happy days.

REAL FOODS

CAFE PICCANTE

37 Broughton Street, EH1 3JU, 0131 557 1911, realfoods.co.uk

19 Broughton Street, EH1 3JU, 0131 478 7884, cafepiccante.com

Real Foods has all the free-from, organic, local, raw and fairtrade food and drink you need to see you through this year’s festival fun. Edinburgh’s original health food shop is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year – having begun as an organic fruit and veg stall in 1963, it’s now stocking over 10,000 products and shipping worldwide.

Bringing its own brand of deep-fried disco to the throngs of revellers that descend on Broughton Street after dark, Cafe Piccante has great fish and chips, pizzas and, crucially, a late-licence allowing them to serve beer. Not for the faint of heart, the unbelievably decadent deep-fried Mars Bars have become a late-night festival favourite.

CURIOUSER & CURIOUSER

BROUGHTON DELI

93 Broughton Street, EH1 3RZ, 0131 556 1866, curiouserandcuriouser.com

7 Barony Street, Edinburgh, EH3 6PD, 0131 558 7111, broughton-deli.co.uk

A beautiful shop run by friendly co-owners Laura and Ian. They sell all sorts of design-led gifts and homewares, with a particular eye for pattern and print. Inside you’ll find striking and unusual pieces from local, national and international printmakers. Other favourites include Scandinavian design, vintage ceramics and beautiful lasercut jewellery. It’s well worth a visit.

Voted one of the top fifty delis in the UK as well as a mention in The List’s 2011 Eating and Drinking Guide’s ‘Cafe Hitlist’, Broughton Delicatessen is a lovely deli/café situated in the heart of the New Town offering an array of fresh, seasonal and organic food. Great for breakfast, it’s also open ‘til 7pm or much later for intimate dining parties for 10 to 24 people.

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LEITH & BROUGHTON STREET CITY GUIDE

SHOPPING

Flux

Bra Bohag

Cracking little shop in the heart of Leith. Although it sells Scottish crafts, don’t think for a second it’s the same sort of tartan tat you’d find in the tourist zones. They also come with a splendid all-ethical produce guarantee.

150 Easter Road, EH7 5RL, brabohag.com, 07808 808033.

Specialists in vintage retro furniture and design, with an enviable collection of Scandinavian sideboards, Ercol chairs, 70s glassware and taxidermied ducks.

The Cat’s Miaou 36 Elm Row, EH7 4AH, thecatsmiaou.co.uk, 0131 557 1277.

A little independent Leith treasure trove of handmade jewellery, crafts, cards and gifts, as well as fair trade bits and pieces from all over the world. You’re bound to find something unusual to coo over when you venture past the beautiful hand-painted shop front – if the gorgeous brooches made by British artists don’t get you, the teeny handmade babygros will.

Concrete Wardrobe 50a Broughton Street, EH1 3SA, concretewardrobe.com, 0131 558 7130

Concrete Wardrobe has a solid reputation for innovative collections and designs covering the worlds of fashion, textiles and furniture. It’s an eclectic mix, including high quality knitted clothing, woven scarves, bags and purses from local designers. A range of interesting antiques from the 20th Century Antiques section (with pieces from the 1920s to the 1970s) complements glassware and soft furnishings and includes design names to excite from Britain, Scandinavia and America - think Eames and Panton.

55 Bernard Street, EH6 6SL, get2flux.co.uk, 0131 554 4075.

Indie Chic Boutique 111 Broughton Street, EH1 3RZ, indiechicboutique. co.uk, 0131 558 1757.

The boutique formerly known as Thrift Chic has renamed and offers a range of women’s clothing and lingerie from top American brands not to be found in the UK. Plus a small collection of ‘gently-used designer clothing’.

Joey D 54 Broughton Street, EH1 3SA, joey-d.co.uk, 0131 557 6672.

Local designer Joey D’s clothes are remade and recycled from old items of clothing. Boiler suits, army tunics and tweed jackets are embellished and tweaked into styles that vary from clubby to downright flamboyant. Make sure you take a wander through their vintage shoe ‘lounge’ for discounts on all manner of exclusive brands.

Life Story 53 London Street, EH3 6LX, lifestoryshop.com, 0131 629 9699.

A beautifully selected mix of minimalist homewares, neon-trimmed ladieswear, locally designed stationery, and several hundred other small temptations. It’s run by husband-and-wife team, textile designer Fee and interior designer Adam Storey.

Crombies of Edinburgh

Seesaw

97 Broughton Street, EH1 3RZ, sausages. co.uk, 0131 556 7643.

109 Broughton Street, EH1 3RZ, seesawtoys. co.uk, 0131 556 9672.

A quick note in case you’re invited to a barbecue in Edinburgh over the summer: turning up with anything other than Crombies’ sausages is akin to social death. Your cheapy pack of discount chipolatas is not really going to cut it alongside such superior offerings as lamb, rosemary and garlic or whisky, wild thyme and boar, is it now?

Curiouser & Curiouser 93 Broughton Street, EH1 3RZ, curiouserandcuriouser.com, 0131 556 1866.

A huge range of wooden toys, fair trade baby clothes and accessories, biodegradeable nappies, eco-friendly baby wipes and organic potions to satisfy the greenest of tots in your life. And we’re not talking about jelly babies.

Valvona & Crolla Caffe Bar 19 Elm Row, Leith Walk, EH7 4AA, valvonacrolla. co.uk, 0131 556 6066.

The Contini family’s Italian deli and café, with plenty in the way of cured meats, fine cheeses, coffees, breads, oils, vinegars and wines.

A well-loved Broughton boutique and online retailer, Curiouser & Curiouser casts its net wide, selling kitchenware from Koloni and Sagaform, ethically sourced homewares and textiles from Nkuku and Ayla, and a range of gifts, prints, bags and jewellery, as well as a picture framing service.

Vinyl Villains

The Dragonfly

EATING

111a Broughton Street, EH1 3RZ, thedragonflygifts.co.uk, 0131 629 4246.

5 Elm Row, EH7 4AA, vinylvillains.co.uk, 0131 558 1170.

This dark, brilliant and slightly haphazard collection of second hand vinyl and CDs was namechecked in Sunshine on Leith, the Proclaimers musical.

An eclectic selection of classic, retro and vintage bits and bobs, with gifts and homewares well-represented alongside baby items, jewellery, cards, art, books and clothes.

Opening times can change during the festival. For more great ideas on where to eat and drink, visit food.list.co.uk or pick up a copy of The List Eating and Drinking Guide 2013.

Eero & Riley

Artisan Roast

7 Easter Road, EH7 5PH, eeroandriley.com, 0131 661 0533.

CAFÉS/COFFEE BAR 57 Broughton Street, EH1 3RJ, 07590 590667, artisanroast.co.uk | Mon–Thu 8am–7pm; Fri 8am–6pm; Sat/Sun 10am–6pm. £4.50 (coffee and cake)

Friendly, brilliantly-priced (most items well under £20) shop with a tangible sense of humour, stocking homeware, gifts and jewellery. We love the Invisible Bookshelves, the astroturf-inspired toothbrush holder, and the fact that these things sit happily alongside silk cushions embroidered with naked ladies and copies of much-loved children’s books such as The Very Hungry Caterpillar. The easily navigated website always features a ‘wee gem of the month’, too.

Elvis Shakespeare 347 Leith Walk, EH6 8SD, elvisshakespeare. com, 0131 561 1363.

As the name bringing together two of the world’s great icons suggests, this much loved Leith Walk institution treats music and literature as equals. Something for everyone, from country music to literary criticism, and Irish poetry to metal. Prices range from 50p to some ultra rare editions at £200.

MORNING

Originally a bean company, Artisan Roast started brewing in 2007 and has not looked back, now with venues in Edinburgh’s Broughton and Bruntsfield districts. With a shabby chic décor that would not be out of place in San Francisco or Seattle, the barista owns the main space, greeting and taking orders as customers appear, passing advice and talking shop with the coffee cognoscenti. No frills, no fuss, no overpriced Danish pastries. No savoury food either, unlike the Bruntsfield branch.

The Bakehouse Co. CAFÉS 32c Broughton Street, EH1 3SB, 0131 557 1157, thebakehousecompany.co.uk | Mon–Fri 7.30am– 5pm; Sat/Sun 10.30am–5pm. £4.50 (set lunch)

With its 1930s ambience, from the bare brickwork to the cake cabinets and chalkboard

HIDDEN EDINBURGH

An old hand at the festival? A jaded local? Kirstyn Smith livens up your summer with some secret city gems you may not have seen before. If it all gets a bit much for you on the Royal Mile (there are only so many times you can be accosted by a flyerer before homicide starts to look reasonable), there are plenty of quirky places and events to take in which aren’t covered by the guide books.

Jupiter Artland Bonnington House Steadings, Wilkieston, EH27 8BB, jupiterartland.org, 01506 889900. Thu–Sun 10am–5pm. £8.50 (£4.50–£6; under 6s and disabled badge holders free; family £23.50–£31.50).

Dollar Psychic’ to ‘A Skeptical Lawyer’s View of the Gay Marriage Debate’.

Royal Observatory Visitor Centre

For artwork off the beaten track, Jupiter Artland (pictured) is the place to explore. The hidden sculpture garden, located just outside of the city, rolls out its fourth summer season taking advantage, as always, of the natural landscape to enhance and complement its exhibits. Kids can lose themselves in 80 acres of art, while adults take in works by Antony Gormley, Ian Hamilton Finlay and Charles Jencks. The summer months mean a packed schedule of creative workshops and inspiring days out for young and old alike.

Blackford Hill, EH9 3HJ, roe.ac.uk, 0131 668 8404. Pre-booked visits only.

Edinburgh Skeptics

Edinburgh’s Wild West

Regular meet-ups and events at various venues; see edinburghskeptics.co.uk.

Nr Springvalley Gardens, Morningside, EH10 4QE.

Somewhat ironically, Edinburgh Skeptics are often found secreted away in Edinburgh’s self-proclaimed ‘most haunted night club’ (monthly Skeptics in the Pub nights, Banshee Labyrinth, 29-35 Niddry Street, EH1 1LG, thebansheelabyrinth.com). Nonetheless, like-minded thinkers are invited to embrace rationality and break down doctrines throughout the Fringe. Balancing grassroots skepticism with well-known guest speakers, there’s stimulating and intelligent debate to be had. Nights to look forward to vary from ‘Matthew Smith: The Million

menus, this café is more about sitting and taking your time than it is about grabbing a hit of caffeine for the road. Daily specials and stews made on-site means an ever-changing menu, but the breads and scones remain constant and consistent. Try the fresh batch cheese or fruit scones on a mid-morning break.

Drill Hall Arts Café FESTIVAL VENUES 34 Dalmeny Street, EH6 8RG, 0131 555 7100, outoftheblue.org.uk | Mon–Sat 10am–5pm. Closed Sun. £8 (lunch)

The creative and community spirit of Out of the Blue Arts @ The Drill Hall reveals itself in the quirky and generously portioned dishes offered at the café. A thriving arts venue with studio and production space for artists and musicians, it hosts ping-pong nights, a monthly flea market and regular acoustic music sessions. At the centre of the renovated army building is the café, a place where big-hearted dishes are served in a funky atmosphere.

After a day of packed shows and tourist avoiding, a twilight escape to the Royal Observatory is a welcome change of pace. There are monthly public astronomy evenings, with a focus on the moon rather than stars, because even Scotland manages to squeeze in a few more hours of sunlight during the summer months. Alternatively, groups (10–30) can book ahead to visit the observatory’s dome, watch the night sky, handle some real-life space rocks and learn more with astro talks.

Blink and you’d miss Edinburgh’s Wild West, an unassuming street in Morningside. Originally constructed in the mid 90s to advertise a furniture venture, the lane quickly reveals itself to be every budding cowboy’s dream: an abandoned lane of saloons, blacksmiths and cantinas. It’s often completely deserted, which means there’s always the slightly creepy notion that, at any moment, Buffalo Bill might jump out, guns blazing. Unknown by many native Edinburghers, it’s a gem of a find when you get there.

The Manna House CAFÉS 22–24 Easter Road, EH7 5RG, 0131 652 2349, themannahousebakery.co.uk | Mon–Sat 8am–5.30pm; Sun 10am–4.30pm. £6.50 (lunch)

Small but perfectly formed, the reputation of this place as possibly Edinburgh’s best artisan bakery is spreading across the city, and what’s most inspiring is that they don’t just base their reputation on doing one thing well. Every day they prepare dozens of fresh breads, exotic salads, quiches, pastries, soups and sandwiches, as well as a patisserie counter that’s satisfying just to gaze at.

Valvona & Crolla Caffè Bar CAFÉS 19 Elm Row, Leith Walk, EH7 4AA, 0131 556 6066, valvonacrolla.co.uk | Mon–Thu 8.30am–5.30pm; Fri/Sat 8am–6pm; Sun 10.30am–3.30pm. £17.50 (lunch)

Whether you can make it through to the fresh but rustic-styled dining area in the back

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depends on whether you can successfully navigate the supremely well-stocked deli area out front, which boasts meats, cheeses, wines and more, many of which are delivered from Italy once a week. The popular café offers plenty of opportunity to try the same produce in its ultimate form, with a range of V&C’s own pizzas, pasta dishes and some traditional main meals, as well as antipasti and dessert selections.

NOON Bonsai Bar Bistro JAPANESE 14 Broughton Street, EH1 3RH, 0131 557 5093, bonsaibarbistro.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–10pm. £4.90 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

A new branch of the perennially popular Old Town restaurant, the menu of tapas-style sharing plates includes crispy eel sushi rolls, teriyaki and tempura with some excellent sides, such as the mildly spicy agenasu (aubergine with chilli miso sauce) and the fresh tako salad of octopus and tomato in an aromatic yuzu dressing. The décor is minimal and the tables are arranged around the walls allowing for intimate dining. Also at 46 West Richmond Street.

Broughton Delicatessen CAFÉS 7 Barony Street, EH3 6PD, 0131 558 7111, broughton-deli.co.uk | Mon–Fri 8am–7pm; Sat 9am–7pm; Sun 11am–6pm. £9 (lunch)

With deli goods and takeaway sandwiches to the front, and 24 covers of eclectic furniture to the rear, Broughton Deli does not concern itself with vanities. The international menu has a surprising mixture of platters, burgers and noodles available all day. The chicken flatbread, with its earthy home-made hummus and piquant harissa yoghurt, is a particular standout. The brunch selection is popular and successful, encompassing sweet and savoury in the form of banana pancakes, fry-ups and crepes.

The Kitchin SCOTTISH 78 Commercial Quay, EH6 6LX, 0131 555 1755, thekitchin.com | Tue–Sat 12.15–2.15pm, 6.30–10.30pm. Closed Sun/Mon. £26.50 (set lunch) / £50 (dinner)

Of course you can melt the credit card with the tasting or seasonal menus at this ultra-slick Leith restaurant, but Tom Kitchin has also brought his Michelin-starred brand of fine dining to a refreshingly wide audience of food lovers. A set lunch menu offers all the precision, provenance and presentation you’d expect from a restaurant groaning with accolades, but without requiring a second mortgage. It’s all simple in concept, but still ultra sophisticated. Not food for making headlines, but for giving pleasure and putting you at ease.

Malmaison Brasserie BISTROS & BRASSERIES 1 Tower Place, EH6 7BZ, 0131 468 5000, malmaison.com | Mon–Fri 7–10am, noon–2.30pm, 6–10.15pm; Sat/Sun 8–10.30am, noon–2.30pm, 6–10.15pm. £22 (lunch/dinner)

as do lunch deals and a good value pre-theatre for the Playhouse.

The Shore Bar & Restaurant BISTROS & BRASSERIES 3 The Shore, EH6 6QW, 0131 553 5080, fishersbistros.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–10.30pm; Sun 12.30–10.30pm. £22 (lunch/dinner)

Open fires, dark wood, animal skulls and white linen create a delightfully atmospheric haven by the water. There’s an olden-days maritime feel, with more than a little bohemian flavour. Regular live folk and jazz feature in the bar, where an informal menu includes excellent fish and chips, sharing platters and bar snacks. Next door in the elegant dining room, more refined (and accordingly priced) food is on offer.

The Water of Leith Café Bistro CAFÉS 52 Coburg Street, EH6 6HJ, 0131 555 2613, thewaterofleithcafebistro.co.uk | Tue–Sun 10am–5.30pm. Closed Mon. £12 (lunch)

Classically trained French chef Mickael Mesle prepares a menu that’s a lovely balance of simplicity and style, while wife Ana runs the front of house with a warmth and passion that makes hard work look like effortless joy. Staples include chunky fishcakes with homemade tartare sauce, quiche of the day and a range of crispy, cheesy croques, but the specials blackboard is the place to find more sophisticated options such as pan-fried hake with spinach velouté or shallot tart tatin.

NIGHT A Room in Leith SCOTTISH 1a Dock Place, EH6 6LU, 0131 554 7427, aroomin. co.uk | Mon–Sun 10.30am–4pm, 5.30–10pm. £13.95 (set lunch)

Down by the water in Leith sits this northerly branch of the city’s ‘A Room In . . .’ bistros, newly relocated to the former Skippers site on Dock Place. Fish remains a speciality, but there are also surprises, such as a deliciously light savoury cheesecake, the creaminess of which is spiked by a piquant salsa. Old favourites such as sticky toffee pudding and chocolate roulade round off the meal.

L’escargot Bleu FRENCH 56 Broughton Street, EH1 3SA, 0131 557 1600, lescargotbleu.co.uk | Mon–Thu noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10pm; Fri/Sat noon–3pm, 5.30–10.30pm. Closed Sun. £12.90 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

There’s a real French ambience in the high-ceilinged dining room with its closely packed tables and vintage posters, while in the kitchen French regional cooking meets a genuine commitment to using the best local and seasonal Scottish produce. The result is a varied menu where traditional steak tartare (mixed at your table with all the trimmings and a touch of theatre) sits comfortably alongside Shetland mussels in creamy smoked haddock and leek sauce. These are flavours to savour, and the relaxed atmosphere and pace let you do just that.

Fishers Bistro FISH 1 The Shore, EH6 6QW, 0131 554 5666, fishersbistros.co.uk | Mon–Sat noon–10.30pm; Sun 12.30–10.30pm. £13 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Fish just tastes better when you eat it by water – a fact The Shore’s branch of Fishers has made the most of for over 20 years. This is a classic bistro: busy, buzzy, not particularly trend-led (and all the better for it). The menu continually evolves, but that said, the classics menu based around mussels, soup and fish-cakes still goes like, well, hot cakes. It’s all good stuff.

Locanda de Gusti ITALIAN 9–11 East London Street, EH7 4BN, 0131 558 9581, locandadegusti.com | Tue–Fri noon–2.30pm, 5–10.30pm; Sat noon–11pm. £12.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Italian restaurants in Edinburgh can sometimes be a touch uninspiring, but thankfully we have restaurants like Locandi de Gusti, which is happy to tread a different, more authentic path. The menu here reflects the Neapolitan origins of the owners, with a focus on the sympathetic treatment of seafood and vegetables: seasonality plays an important part and handmade pasta is another real delight. This approach suits the more bohemian feel of Broughton Street, and the relaxed atmosphere is in keeping with other venues in the area.

Los Cardos MEXICAN 281 Leith Walk, EH6 8PD, 0131 555 6619, loscardos.co.uk | Sun–Thu noon–9pm; Fri/Sat noon–10pm. £7.50 (lunch/dinner)

With Irvine Welsh tweeting about the haggis burritos and the nearby Victoria and Boda bars happy for customers to come in with their carryout to enjoy with a pint, there’s clearly a lot of local love for this small Leith Walk eatery. You can eat in and BYOB, but as space (and glassware) is limited, takeaway’s the popular option. The standout is the carnitas – pork in salsa verde marinade slowly cooked to total yumminess.

Mithas INDIAN 7 Dock Place, EH6 6LU, 0131 554 0008, mithas. co.uk/ | Tue–Sun noon–2.30pm, 5.30–10pm. Closed Mon. £26 (lunch/dinner)

London may have a number of fine-dining Indian restaurants but Khushi’s offshoot Mithas is the only place in Edinburgh offering such a high-end experience. Starters, tandoor and kebab mains and up-scale desserts all bear little resemblance to standard Indian fare, with not a pakora in sight. Four different tasting menus allow the kitchen free rein to demonstrate its prowess and the no-charge BYO wine policy partially mitigates the robust final bill.

Origano ITALIAN 277 Leith Walk, EH6 8PD, 0131 554 6539, origano-leith.co.uk | Mon–Thu 5–10pm; Fri 12.30–2.30pm, 5–10.30pm; Sat 12.30–10.30pm;

Sun 1–10pm. £12.50 (lunch/dinner)

Origano is a bijou alternative to the modern, mass-production Italian restaurant. Stripped wooden floors and ceilings, simple furniture and smiling staff give the small, warm room in the middle of Leith Walk a friendly and welcoming vibe. Food with lively and fresh flavours comes with portioning largesse. Foremost a pizzeria, the hand-made dough is baked crisp with a wide variety of topping combinations and a sixteen-inch large will easily feed two if not more.

Café Piccante TAKEAWAY & HOME DELIVERY 19 Broughton Street, EH1 3JU, 0131 478 7884, cafepiccante.com | Sun–Thu 4pm–2am; Fri/Sat 4pm–3am

Piccante caters to crowds which are typically young, studenty and predominantly gay, and it makes the effort to keep the party going right to the end. On Fridays and Saturdays the disco ball and the DJ are pressed into service with a pounding soundtrack that’s earned it a lively, Edinburgh-wide reputation as ‘the trance chippy’. They also deliver 5-11pm, and those with a fondness for cultural stereotypes note, they’ll deep-fry a Mars bar for you.

Port of Siam THAI 3 Pier Place, EH6 4LP, 0131 467 8628, portofsiam.com | Tue/Wed 6pm–10pm, Thu/ Fri noon–2pm, 6pm–10pm; Sat noon–10pm; Sun 12.30pm–10pm. Closed Mon. £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Thai cookery enjoys an affinity with seafood, but few restaurants have married this to Scotland’s bountiful larder as well as Port of Siam. Sourcing all their fish from their Newhaven neighbour Welch’s, the menu is divided between contemporary and traditional dishes, but the traditional dishes are far from staid. Goong kratiem prik thai is whole seabass fried with seasonal veg tossed in a fiery but fragrant mix of garlic and peppercorns. That booking is essential is further evidence that this is a hugely popular port of call.

Restaurant Martin Wishart FRENCH 54 The Shore, EH6 6RA, 0131 553 3557, martinwishart.co.uk | Tue–Fri noon–2pm, 7–10pm; Sat noon–1.30pm, 7–10pm; Closed Sun/Mon. £28.50 (set lunch) / £75 (set dinner)

It’s more than that Michelin star. Restaurant Martin Wishart has a certain caché. It is a place to propose, to woo, to seal the deal. If it’s on the expense account, lucky you. If not, buy the ticket, take the ride: choose a tasting menu, with accompanying sommelier-guided wines if you wish, and let them show you what they’re capable of. On the fish-themed tasting menu, the John Dory is boat-fresh and gutsy, while on the main taster is a two-course capsule roast dinner in miniature, first flame cake and crispy ox tongue, followed by soft cinnamon-pecked veal cheek and near-scene-stealing goat’s cheese gnocchi. The petits fours, precisely presented by a white-gloved waiter, are a fitting finale.

The Mal exudes a distinctly Parisian feel, with rich, dark hues and elegant wooden slatted blinds. That Gallic influence is evident in the menu too, marrying some British and occasional Asian input into a mix of modern and classic dishes. Those offerings that don’t quite click are down to what’s not on the plate, rather than what is. Char-grilled squid with chorizo, black olive, lime and chilli is well balanced, while the lobster burger is a triumph, a fresh mango salsa and lime hollandaise providing tang in contrast to the rich, sweet flesh.

Pomegranate MIDDLE EAST 1 Antigua Street, EH1 3NH, 0131 556 8337, pomegranatesrestaurant.com | Mon–Sun noon– midnight. £7.50 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The team behind the ever popular Hanam’s put every inch of available space to good use in their new Antigua Street venture. Carved out below street level, whitewashed shisha pipe caves nestle alongside a cosy private dining room. Service is snappy, with a steady stream of Middle Eastern mezze dishes, kebabs and shawarma platters coming from the busy kitchen. No-corkage BYOB keeps it affordable,

The Manna House

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LEITH Venture towards the Firth of Forth and you’ll ﬁnd the friendly and unpretentious area of Leith. With so many quality bars and restaurants lining the waterfront, it’s easy to see why Leith is a popular destination for the discerning diner and drink connoisseur

MARTIN WISHART

ROSELEAF

54 The Shore, EH6 6RA, 0131 553 3557, martin-wishart.co.uk

23–24 Sandport Place, EH6 6EW, 0131 476 5268, roseleaf.co.uk

Martin Wishart has been awarded a Michelin star, four AA rosettes and many other awards. Located in Leith, Martin Wishart creates unique menus using the freshest ingredients. The great value lunch menu is available Tue–Fri only, for just £28.50 for three courses. The restaurant also offers a six course tasting menu at £75, or a la carte at £70 for lunch and dinner. Open Tue–Sat for lunch and dinner.

A must-do for any visitor to Edinburgh is Leith’s Roseleaf, serving up the ‘Bestest Brunch’ from 10am–5pm and an excellent evening menu from 5pm–10pm every day. With a delightful drinks list including freshly made juices, real ales, ‘barry’ beers, cracking coffee, loose leaf teas and ‘Pot-Tails’ (cocktails in teapots). Call for reservations and to arrange ‘Mad Hatters’ Tea Parties’.

LOS CARDOS

MALMAISON

281 Leith Walk, EH6 8PD, 0131 555 6619, loscardos.co.uk

1 Tower Place, EH6 7BZ, 0844 693 0652, malmaison.com

The award-winning Los Cardos takeaway is Mexican inspired street food that is fast, fresh, healthy and flavourful. A choice of five freshly-made salsas and guacamole complements the grilled meats and veggie options in the burritos, tacos and quesadillas. Home to the orignal haggis burrito, there’s something here for just about everyone. Open daily noon–10pm; delivery available 5–9.30pm.

Find out what weekends are really about with the famous Sunday brunch at Malmaison. With unlimited hors d’oeuvres from ‘The Chef’s Table’, delicious main courses, generous desserts and an indulgent drinks menu of bloody marys and cocktails, there’s a reason why it’s called the biggest and best brunch in town.

MANNA HOUSE

THE VINTAGE

22–24 Easter Road, EH7 5RG, 0131 652 2349, themannahousebakery.co.uk

60 Henderson Street, EH6 6DE, 0131 563 5293, thevintageleith.co.uk

Open since 2005, this award-winning patisserie bakes a wide range of breads, pastries and delicious savouries. If you’ve a sweet tooth, their wonderful mousses, sponge cakes and fancies will more than satisfy. Open seven days a week, they’ve a few tables for coffee, lunches and snacks – some outside for when it’s warm – and they do a great takeaway, too.

The Vintage is Leith’s first dedicated ‘craft beer bar and kitchen’, with 13 draught beers (seven rotating), 22 wines by the glass and a British charcuterie and grazing menu to tempt the most adventurous of palettes. They offer a seasonal a la carte menu from Mon—Fri, while weekends are all about Peelham Farm Sunday roasts. Bring the family, work up a thirst and The Vintage will satisfy your appetite.

SOFI’S

TAPA

65 Henderson Street, 0131 555 70 19, bodabar.com

19 Shore Place, EH6 6SW, 0131 476 6776, tapaedinburgh.co.uk

Sofi’s bar is the port in the storm, the little squeeze in a hug, a home from home. So feel free to sink in and snuggle up with a glass of wine or a pint of beer. On Friday and Saturdays it’s more like a party in the kitchen, with many delightfully tasty cocktails on offer. Lots of events, too: singer/ songwriter nights, clothes swaps, knitting nights, film nights and a variety of cool parties.

Tapa on Shore Place, tucked in just behind the Shore, captures the wonderful ambiance of a lively Spanish setting perfectly. With its high vaulted walls adorned with antique bull fighting posters so perfectly complementing the former bonded warehouse location, if it were not for the Scottish weather, you could be convinced you were still on holiday.

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Rivage INDIAN 126–130 Easter Road, EH7 5RJ, 0131 661 6888, rivagerestaurant.co.uk | Mon noon–2pm, 5.30–11pm; Wed–Sun 12.30–2pm, 5.30–11pm. Closed Tue. £7.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Rivage may seem an understated presence from the outside, but there’s nothing low-key about the restaurant’s menu or the kitchen’s execution of it. The menu offers only traditional pan-Indian cuisine, with no tikka masala or the like rearing its head. The menu is alive with intriguing options and ingredients – including quail. The menu alters seasonally and it’s also worthwhile asking about any off-menu specials that may be available, particularly for vegetarian diners, to whom the restaurant is keen to offer as wide a choice as possible.

Smoke Stack NORTH AMERICAN 53–55 Broughton Street, EH1 3RJ, 0131 556 6032, smokestack.org.uk | Mon–Thu noon–10pm; Fri noon–11pm; Sat 10am–11pm; Sun 10am–10pm. £10 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

With its stripped-back, pale grey decor, bright lights and all-day food service, Smokestack’s bright and breezy tone extends to the menu and drinks list which convey both the choices available and the restaurant’s ethos in an engaging and accessible way. Smokestack styles itself as a steakhouse, specialising in Scottish Borders beef (dry aged for 21 days), with salads, fish and sandwiches to choose from as an alternative.

the likes of a crispy lamb rib salad. Despite its popularity as a place to eat, it still caters for those seeking a fireside pint or even one alfresco, overlooking the Water of Leith.

Nobles Bar 44a Constitution Street, Leith, EH6 6RS, 0131 629 7215, noblesbarleith.co.uk | Mon–Fri 11am–1am; Sat/Sun 10am–1am (food till 10pm). £13.50 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Nobles is quite simply everything you could want from a local. With great drinks (Black Isle supply them with a custom-made Nobles IPA), live bands all week and a stunning interior influenced by a sense of maritime Victoriana in keeping with the location, it’s a place that’s once seen, forever fallen in love with. The food is also worthy of recommendation: meaty smoked haddock and black pudding fishcake with poached egg or a tender Ayrshire pork belly braised in the Nobles IPA are highlights, as is the weekend brunch menu.

The Outhouse 12a Broughton Street Lane, EH1 3LY, 0131 557 6668, outhouse-edinburgh.co.uk | Sun–Thu 5pm–3am; Fri/Sat 3pm–3am

DRINKS

Although it has moved away from its pre-club vibe the atmosphere at this back-street hideaway is still young and lively on weekend nights, with DJ playing soul, funk and hip hop tracks. A feature is made of wall murals created by local artists, and it has a great beer garden with priority delivery available from pizza specialists La Favorita. For 2013’s Festival the upstairs function room hosts good quality jazz and blues acts.

Boda Bar

The Roseleaf

229 Leith Walk, EH6 8NY, 0131 553 5900, bodabar.com | Mon–Fri 2pm–1am; Sat noon–1am; Sun 1pm–midnight.

23–24 Sandport Place, EH6 6EW, 0131 476 5268, roseleaf.co.uk | Mon–Sun 10am–1am (food till 9.45pm). £12 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Decorated in a decidedly miscellaneous manner – with a large paper shark above the Jägermeister, and a scatter of seats that resemble fairytale toadstools – its style is hard to pin down. Not that this matters, as Boda is a laidback yet lively place to hang out and enjoy Black Isle Blonde on tap and, perhaps, some novelty shots.

Bond No. 9 84 Commercial Street, EH6 6LX, 0131 555 5578, bondno9.co.uk | Mon–Sun noon–1am (food till 10pm). £13.50 (lunch/dinner)

As a cocktail bar Bond No. 9 – housed within an old whisky bond – offers a menu which is expansive, well-prepared and high quality without being elitist in price or language, while the food is uncharacteristically excellent for a bar which does drinks so well. Starters include simple but effective Thai fish soup or pulledpork wontons, for example, while a tender confit orange duck leg is served with a flourish, sporting two celeriac garnishes and some not overpowering caramelised plums. Brunch is also served at the weekend.

Mixing chintzy and idiosyncratic homeliness with attention to detail, the Roseleaf offers highquality all-day brunches and evening meals alongside an enticing range of drinks, including bottled beers and ciders, a bunch of good wines, homemade lemonades and ‘pot-tails’ – cocktails in china tea services. Despite the wacky names, dishes such as Braw Prawn (a starter of expertly seasoned king prawns on a vermicelli noodle salad) and Ace of Blades (tender braised blade of beef dressed with cabbage, bacon and pine nuts) should be the envy of any dining bar in the city.

Sofi’s 65 Henderson Street, EH6 6ED, 0131 555 7019, bodabar.com | Mon–Thu 2pm–1am; Fri/Sat 2pm–1am; Sun 2pm–midnight

Perhaps the most unashamedly patriotic venue of the Swedish mini-chain, Sofi’s has all the anti-Ikea kookiness of its sister venues, with knitting clubs and clothes swaps regular events round these parts. Food is limited to the merest of nibbles, but these are done well and supported by a good range of cocktails and beers.

Joseph Pearce’s

The Vintage

23 Elm Row, EH7 4AA, 0131 556 4140, bodabar. com | Sun–Thu 11am–midnight; Fri/Sat 11am–1am (food till 9/9.30pm). £14 (lunch/dinner)

60 Henderson Street, EH6 6DE, 0131 563 5293, thevintageleith.co.uk | Mon–Fri noon–1am; Sat/Sun 10am–1am (food till 10pm). £16 (lunch/dinner)

The most prominent of Mcal Merchant’s suite of Swedish pubs, which include Boda, Sofi’s and Victoria in the Leith/Leith Walk patch, and Hemma by Holyrood, JP’s has a knack for catering to wildly different ages and demographics: in the daytime children are welcome, yet safely confined to the toy-andgames-filled upper level, while in the evenings the whole place, and the outside tables, become excellent spots to watch the trendier end of the world drift by. Those wanting to go the full Wallander route might be tempted by stroganoff meatballs with hasselback potatoes, washed down with a Nils Oscar God Lager.

The King’s Wark 36 The Shore, EH6 6QU, 0131 554 9260, thekingswark.com | Sun–Thu noon–11pm; Fri/Sat noon–midnight (food till 10pm). £14 (lunch/dinner)

With a history dating back to 1432, this is one of Leith’s most venerable buildings, its stone walls, hardwood floorboards, open fire and dark wooden furniture lending it an enjoyably anachronistic feel. The kitchen produces an inventive menu that includes fantastic seafood options and plenty of game, as well as unusual cuts of more conventional livestock including

CLUBBING

Styling itself as a craft beer bar and kitchen, The Vintage is one of the most exciting things about Edinburgh’s food and drink scene in 2013. Established with the backing of Alloa’s Williams Brewery, the drink lines are excellent (ten keg, three cask, sixty bottled beers and an epic list of wines and spirits), the service is casual but utterly professional and the food features an extensive charcuterie grazing menu – sourced mainly from British producers – of salamis cured with spiced walnut or hazelnut and champagne, hot-smoked pig’s cheeks or rich, stew-like jugged rabbit.

Victoria 265 Leith Walk, EH6 8PD, 0131 555 1638, bodabar. com | Mon–Fri 2pm–1am; Sat noon–1am; Sun 1pm–midnight

Bigger and with a slightly more sophisticated vibe than Boda, its nearby sister venue, Victoria is able to fill up its extra space with families in the daytime and a fairly cosmopolitan crowd of an evening. With a popular outdoor area and an eclectic range of occasional events – from sailorthemed evenings, to dog-and-owner-specific soirees – you never know what, or who, you’re likely to encounter.

EDINBURGH BEATS

During the festival, the capital’s club scene is even more buzzing than usual. David Pollock takes you through the finest nights and venues Anyone visiting Edinburgh over the summer and wanting to sample the best nightlife the city has to offer will first have to tear themselves away from the Fringe venues themselves. Although a lot of these haven’t finalised exact details of what they’re doing at time of writing, Underbelly, Udderbelly, the Pleasance venues, Gilded Balloon Teviot and the Assembly Rooms all traditionally operate bars with 3am licences, DJs and food options on the premises, while the outdoor setup in George Square is one of the festival city’s most celebrated. Otherwise, Edinburgh’s homegrown club scene is at its busiest during August. Possibly the finest underground experience is at Sneaky Pete’s, a tiny hole in the wall club bar on the Cowgate which holds only around 100 people and offers a loud, sweaty atmosphere and cutting-edge bass music pumped out over a great soundsystem. Guests for the month include Round Table Knights (at We Own, 3 Aug), Daniel Avery b2b with Optimo’s JD Twitch (at Wasabi Disco,17 Aug) and Curses (AKA Drop the Lime’s house music project, 21 Aug), while special events include daytime party Function at the Junction (24 Aug) and an appearance by esteemed Glasgow promoters Vitamins (30 Aug). Probably Edinburgh’s biggest club event is Musika, a broad-reaching house and techno event with an impressive line in big-name special guests. Although it recently left its home at the Liquid Room, two

massive events are planned for currently undetermined locations across August. On 4 Aug Musika will welcome George FitzGerald and Deetron, while on 24 Aug their special guests will be Seth Troxler and Tiga, names that would be attention-grabbing anywhere. Check listings (list.co.uk/events) during August for where they’re going to be, and also to find out what’s on at the Liquid Room itself and its attached sister venue the Annexe, both state-of-the-art clubs which are sure to be hosting their own large events. Also watch out for occasional guest-driven house and techno nights at the Caves, at the east end of the Cowgate, while Calton Road’s Studio 24 is a rough and ready venue home to more eclectic sounds including rock and the darker fringes of techno. Blair Street basement Cabaret Voltaire has confirmed a couple of guest-driven nights at time of writing, including Justin Martin (23 Aug) and Glasgow’s exceptional Electric Frog party (25 Aug), and Edinburgh College of Art’s Wee Red Bar is notable for fun but credible indie nights on a weekly basis. The New Town is the heart of Edinburgh’s commercial clubbing scene, although the nearby Castle Clvb puts on some respected house parties. The area’s 99 Hanover Street is a great bar with a club-worthy DJ programme, with Thursday nights during August given over to some of Edinburgh’s finest local DJs and promoters.

154 THE LIST | Edinburgh Festival Guide 2013 | list.co.uk/festival

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CLUBBING & LGBT CITY GUIDE

Best of Bongo Underbelly, 66 Cowgate, Old Town, underbelly. co.uk / thebongoclub.co.uk, 0131 558 8844

Although Edinburgh’s definitive Bongo Club only operates out of the unique multi-level space between Victoria Street and the Cowgate for 11months of the year, some of their best nights continue in August under the wing of Festival tenants Underbelly.

Cabaret Voltaire 36–38 Blair Street, Old Town, thecabaretvoltaire. com, 0131 247 4704

Triple-roomed subterranean venue set into the caverns of the Old Town with a musical programme that covers all aspects of underground music seven nights a week. Highlights include Tuesday-nighter Hector’s House, Thursday’s occasionally guest-abetted edition of Glasgow’s I AM and weekend guest nights Fly and Pocket Aces.

The Liquid Room & The Annexe 9c Victoria Street, Old Town, liquidroom. com, 0131 225 2564

One of Edinburgh’s best clubbing and live music spaces, with a bunch of varied nights playing house, techno, indie and more in the main room and the adjoining Annexe venue. It’s also taking in some of the Bongo Club’s finest stray nights during August, including Confusion is Sex, Messenger, Mumbo Jumbo and Four Corners.

Lola Lo 43b Frederick Street, New Town, lolaloedinburgh.com, 0131 226 2224

A blend of club classics, house, electro, hip hop and contemporary beats in a South Pacific setting (think bamboo and grass skirts).

Castle Clvb

Lulu

3 Queensferry Lane, West End, castleclvb.com, 0131 467 7215

125b George Street, New Town, luluedinburgh.co.uk, 0131 225 5005

Selection of cool house nights and underground parties, with a range of one-off events held at this back alley basement in the West End.

The Caves Niddry Street South, Old Town, thecavesedinburgh.com, 0131 557 8989

A warren of caves and caverns under Edinburgh’s Cowgate, with great acoustics and plenty of nooks and crannies, as well as occasional live music and guest nights plus performances during the festival month of August.

Cav 3 West Tollcross, Southside, thecav.co.uk, 0131 228 3252

Student-friendly budget chart and party night for the young ’uns, whose claim to fame is a Saturday night residency from TV’s John Leslie.

Citrus Club 40–42 Grindlay Street, West End, citrusclub. co.uk, 0131 622 7086

Mainly studenty venue that goes for an indie vibe as well as a dash of punk, new wave and 80s classics.

Cool funk, house and other grooves found when you venture below the Tigerlily. It’s the Opal Lounge’s sister venue, playing mostly chart hits to a rammed dancefloor.

Opal Lounge 51 George Street, New Town, opallounge. co.uk, 0131 226 2275

A blend of house, funk and mash-up tunes attracts an upmarket crowd, including the odd visiting celebrity type.

Opium Wall-to-wall rock with the odd bit of metal and punk, too.

Silk 28 King’s Stables Road, Old Town, silknightclub.co.uk, 0131 229 9433

Mid-market house, hip hop and R’n’B at this recently refurbished club for students and a younger crowd, open Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

Sneaky Pete’s 73 Cowgate, Old Town, sneakypetes.co.uk, 0131 225 1757

A mix of mainstream R&B, chart and party nights in perhaps Edinburgh’s biggest club space, always packed to the rafters with a young and up for it crowd.

Club Tropicana

Studio 24

23 Lothian Road, West End, tropicanaedinburgh. com, 0131 229 9197

24–26 Calton Road, Old Town, studio24.me, 0131 558 3758

1a Market Street, Old Town, cityedinburgh.co.uk, 0131 226 9560

Retro sounds from the 1980s, for the many who find themselves unable to break their habit for such things.

Electric Circus 36–39 Market Street, Old Town, theelectriccircus.biz, 0131 226 4224

Eclectic dance beats and indie mixed with live bands, burlesque and cabaret, plus private rooms with karaoke. Friday’s Pop Tarts and monthly Saturday residencies provide late night indie clubbing fun.

Espionage 4 India Buildings, Victoria Street, Old Town, espionage007.co.uk, 0131 477 7007

Five floors of varied chart and dancey action every night of the week, with party favourites too. It’s mainstream, although the multi-level layout makes for a varied experience.

Henry’s Cellar Bar 8–16a Morrison Street, West End, theraft.org.uk, 0131 629 4101

Out-there live gigs from local and touring artists and weekend club nights playing things like breaks, Northern Soul and ska.

The Hive 15–17 Niddry Street, Old Town, clubhive.co.uk, 0131 556 0444

A varied mix of live music and club nights, with indie, electro, dance and rock, aimed primarily at students.

RAINBOW CITY

71 Cowgate, Old Town, opiumedinburgh. co.uk, 0131 225 8382

The ultimate in intimate clubbing in Edinburgh, only holding about 100 people, Sneaky’s still manages to attract some seriously high quality guest DJs. Expect dubstep, electro, up-and-coming DJ talent and plenty of sweat at signature nights like Wasabi Disco, We Own and Playdate.

City: Edinburgh

LGBT

Studio 24 offers a down-to-earth mix of rock, retro, techno and even Balkan music across its many nights. Home to a friendly crowd, some great guests (DJs and live bands) and a commitment to underground music.

Wee Red Bar Edinburgh College of Art, Lauriston Place, Southside, weeredbar.co.uk, 0131 229 1442

Edinburgh College of Art’s small but beautifully-formed student union bar is one of the less-heralded but more beloved establishments in Edinburgh for any leftfield music fan with a taste for indie, electronic and sometimes experimental sounds. They put on club nights and live gigs.

‘THE CLUB SCENE IS AT ITS BUSIEST DURING AUGUST’

Fancy a quiet beer in a gay-friendly pub, a sparkly night out or an inclusive kickabout? Kirsty Logan explores Edinburgh’s queer delights If you’re looking for Edinburgh’s main gaybourhood, look no further than Leith Walk – some of the city’s best queer-friendly venues can be found around the top of the hill. For eating and drinking, there’s plenty to choose from. Family friendly Victoria Bar (265 Leith Walk, EH6 8PD, 0131 555 1638) is best for a laid-back, sophisticated time; brightly friendly Café Habana (22 Greenside Lane, Leith Walk, EH1 3AA, 0131 558 1270) is good to start a night of dancing; and the quirkily decorated Boda Bar (229 Leith Walk, EH6 8NY, 0131 553 5900) will suit if you fancy something a bit different: coffee tequila, anyone? As the night rolls on, CC Blooms (23–24 Greenside Lane, Leith Walk, EH1 3AA, 0131 556 9331) will provide a good old-fashioned gay night out, with glittery cowboy hats and classic disco tunes welcome. One of the most popular clubs is the recently-renovated GHQ (4 Picardy Place, EH1 3JT, 0845 166 6024), with a selection of bars and dancefloors, and good drinks promos. But be warned, if you’re closer to 30 than 20 it can feel a little like you’ve stumbled into a youth club. For a cosier evening, try The Regent (2 Montrose Terrace, EH7 5DL, 0131 661 8198), pitched as Edinburgh’s Gay Real Ale Pub. On Sundays they host Rubyfruits, a social evening for lesbian and bisexual women. The Street (2 Picardy Place, EH1 3JT, 0131 556 4272) is laid-back during the day, with huge windows ideal for people-watching. Hang around for

the evening, when the labyrinthine basement turns into a club. Under the Stairs (3a Merchant Street, EH1 2QD, 0131 466 8550), though not specifically a gay bar, is popular with LGBT people who fancy a break from the scene; its low lighting, cosy atmosphere and high-quality food make it ideal for dates. Similarly, vegetarian restaurant Henderson’s (94 Hanover Street, EH2 1DR, 0131 225 2131) is gay-friendly with an excellent deli and café. When you’ve finished eating and drinking, there’s still plenty of queer entertainment to be had in Edinburgh. Radical bookshop Word Power (43 West Nicolson Street, EH8 9DB, 0131 662 9112) has a great selection of feminist and queer books and magazines. More options include a gig from Loud & Proud, Scotland’s LGBT choir (loudandproudchoir.org - and they even have two teams to choose from; Twisted Thistles and Cannon Belles); a roller derby bout with the Auld Reekie Roller Girls (arrg. co.uk); a match with HotScots FC, Scotland’s LGBT football team (hotscotsfc.com); or the queer and trans cabaret Cachín Cachán Cachunga!, which holds regular events (blissfultimes.ca/cachin.htm). If you’re new to the city, the LGBT Centre for Health & Wellbeing is a good place to start (9 Howe Street, EH3 6TE, lgbthealth.org.uk). They host ‘icebreaker’ events, as well as music jams, film screenings, book groups, and a selection of drop-ins and counselling sessions.

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list.co.uk/festival | Edinburgh Festival Guide 2013 | THE LIST 159

EFG13 template 2.indd 159

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Festival

INDEX AN A–Z OF SHOWS, EVENTS AND ACTS

Guardian Edinburgh International Television Festival

Mela Kidzone

Russian National Orchestra

Melodic Dystrophy

Rutu Modan

Haftor Medbøe

Ménage à Trois

Sadie and The Hot Heads

Hamlet

Meredith Monk

109

Salman Rushdie

Hannah Berry

Metamorphosis

108

Sam Durant

Happy Lands

116

Michael Colgan

109

Samba Sene

Michael Griffiths

Sarah Kenchington

112

Michael Nyman

Sarah Regan

Michelle Paver

Scottish Ballet

Midnight at the Rue Morgue

Scottish Dance Theatre

Scottish Youth Theatre

116 114

Heroes @ Bob’s Bookshop Hidden Orchestra

15 Minutes

Company Non Nova

Higgs

’33 (a kabarett)

Complaints Choir, the

Histoire d’amour

Abbas Khider

Adam Page

Confessions of Gordon Brown, the

Afghan Days Babylon Nights

Contemporary Classics

105

Airnadette

Contemporary Legend Theatre

108

Akhmeteli Theatre

Cora Bissett

Credible Likeable Superstar Role Model

Alan Bissett

10, 32

Alberto Morrocco

Alexander McCall Smith

Alexei Sayle

Crying Out Loud presents l’Après-midi d’un Foehn

Aliens Love Underpants

Culture and Broadcasting

116

American Lulu

102

Amy Hoggart

Andreas Haefliger Andrey Kurkov

109 20

Dan Willis Dance Odysseys

20, 109

How Do I Get Up There?

10 20, 67, 104

Mike Oldfield’s Tubular Bells ‘For Two’

Sergei Ilnitsky

When You Cum?

Miss Behave

Shaggy Doggerel

Hussein Chalayan

Mitsuko Uchida

How Hard Do You Hum

Hyung Su Kim

20, 109

109

20 12, 30 9 20, 67, 104

Shawshank Redemption, the

Shereen el Feki

I Am Bev

Movin’ Melvin Brown: The Ray Charles Experience

Showstoppers’ Family Hour, the

Iain Banks

Mr Winchester

Simon Hoggart

Ian Bostridge

109

Mucus Factory

Smashed

Ian Lavender

Mukesh Kapila

Snakes! The Musical

My Brother the Robot

Snarky Puppy

Song Noir

Identity and Community

116

If These Spasms Could Speak Im (Goldenen) Schnitt I

Nadifa Mohamed

105

Nam June Paik

30, 109

78 112 78

Daniel Sloss

In Vogue: Songs by Madonna

Natasha Yapp

Sonica Presents Robbie Thomson’s Ecstatic Arc

Dany Laferrière

Ines Wurth

Neander

Stan Tracey

78 112

102

David Baddiel

Innocence

Neil Forbes

Stephen Collins

Ângela Ferreira

David Nasaw

116

Interfaces

Neil Gaiman

Stewart Lee

Anna

David Quirk

Ivan Brackenbury

New Voices

105

Antti Tuomainen

Deon Meyer

James Cousins

Niccolò Ammaniti

Arne Dahl

Despina Nissiriou

James Lasdun

Nikolai Lugansky

109

Tall Stories

Baconface

Dido and Aeneas

109

Jan van der Berg

Nish Kumar

Tattoo, the

118

Bad Boy Eddie

Die Roten Punkte

Je ne sais quoi

Nosferatu

Teatrocinema

Badac Theatre

Digi-Bhang Live

Jem Rolls

OMEGA

Dressed to Kill

Jenny Éclair

On Behalf of Nature

109

Theatre Uncut: Dalgety and Fragile

Jess Abrams

Oper Frankfurt

109

There We Have Been

Angel Blue

Ban This Filth! Barroux

Duke Ellington’s Sacred Concert

Barry from Watford

Bang on a Can All-Stars

Bawren Tavaziva BEASTS Beckett on Film

109

112

Joey Page

EastEnd Cabaret

John Gray

20, 68

Edinburgh Book Fringe

Edinburgh International Fashion Festival

109

Surrender, the

Susan Greenfield

20, 109

Orb, the

Thermal and A Quarter

Our Friends, The Enemy

Thrice

John Lloyd

Pam Lawson

Tia Fuller

John Taylor

Parley

Tig Notaro

Jonathan Coe

Pasodos

Tim FitzHigham

Just Festival

Patricio Pron

Titus

Beijing People’s Art Theatre

Édouard Lock

104

Belarus Free Theatre

Edward Ross

Kakatsitsi

Patti Smith

109

Eleanor Catton

Kate Tempest

Paul Morley

16, 20

Benny Davis: The Human Jukebox

Elizabeth McGovern

Katie Goodman

Paul Pirie

Bidisha

Ensemble musikFabrik

Katri Walker

Big Daddy vs Giant Haystacks

Erotic Writing Masterclass

Kearse and Marrese

Birthday Girls: 2053

To Dream Again

111 47 9 72 109

Tod Machover

Tom Stade

Paul Zerdin

Tracey Thorn

Pedro Lenz

Tragedy of Coriolanus, the

Kennedys, the

116

Peter Doig

Trash Cuisine

82 94

blackSKYwhite

Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir

Kevin Bridges

Peter Gregson

109

Trench, the

BLAM!

Events, the

Krijn de Koning

Pharoah Sanders

112

Tron Theatre Company

Eyal Weizman

Larkin Poe

Phil Bancroft

112

Turing Festival

Twenty-Six Marathons in Twenty-Six Days

Bluebeard’s Castle

109 14

Festival City

Lars Vogt

109

Philip Glass

109

Bob Golding

Fiona Banner

Laurie Penny

Philip Pope

Bobby Mair

First Book Award

Lead Pencil

Pierre-Laurent Aimard

109

Ulysses

Five by Five

Leaving Planet Earth

106

Pierrot Lunaire

105

Véronique Gens

Vicki Weitz

116

Vikki Stone

Blueflint

Booking Dance Festival Showcase

Flamenco Global

Les Enfants Terribles

Brand New Ancients

Follow the Thread

Lewis Hetherington

Bremner Duthie

Footloose

Lloyd Langford

Forest Fringe

Lock In, the

Brian Eno

109

106 9

Posy Simmonds Power of Social Media, the Princess Pumpalot

Vitaly Friedman

20 114

PRODUCT

Wei Seng Chen

Pumajaw

Quite Nice Theatre

Wellington International Ukulele Orchestra

Bryony Kimmings

Frank Boyle

116

Caitlin Moran

Frank Zappa

Madame Freedom

109

Cambuyón

Franz West

Made in Scotland

Rachel Maclean

Carly Smallman

Fringe By The Sea

Maggie O’Farrell

Carnival Camp

From Death to Death

Magical Playroom, the

Radicalisation of Bradley Manning, the

Whatever Gets You Through the Night

Carol Ann Duffy

Gabriel Orozco

Magnus Linklater

Cassetteboy vs DJ Rubbish

Gamarjobat

Maj Sjöwall

Reverend Obadiah Steppenwolfe III

Who Wants to Kill Yulia Tymoshenko?

Wonders of Magic

Cat Stevens Reconstructed

Gandini Juggling

Malene Mortensen

112

Reverend Peyton

110

Wooster Group, the

113

Malorie Blackman

Rite of Spring, the

105

World Press Photo

114

Catrin Evans

106

Garden Lobby

Louise Rennison

116 20

Centro Dramático Nacional

Gareth Brookes

Man Ray

Robert Montgomery

Worst of Scottee

Cerrie Burnell

George Monbiot

Marcel Duchamp

Robert Softley

Wu Hsing-kuo

108

Cerys Matthews

Ghostpoet

112

Margaret Atwood

Rock Out!

YMAP

109

Chris Coltrane

Glyn Dillon

Roddy Doyle

Zor

Chris Fitchew

Good Mourning! VOstBil

Chris Mayo

Graphic novels

Chris Ramsey

Greed

Chris Stokes

Gregor Schneider

Christine Bovill’s Piaf

Grid Iron

106

Claire Cunningham

Grounded

Marilyn Monroe: A Celebration in Song

Rodrigo Abd

Mario Testino

Roman Vondrous

20, 68

Mark Thomas

Rory McGrath

114 46

Martha Reeves and The Vandellas 74

Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra 20

Media Skins

Rubberbandits

Russell Kane

Mela

20, 109 16

For all the information about Edinburgh restaurants, bars, shops and clubs, please see our City Guide which kicks off on page 121

160 THE LIST | Edinburgh Festival Guide 2013 | list.co.uk/festival

EFG13 Index-BD-LM.indd 160

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