Eating and Drinking Guide 2014 by List Publishing Ltd

In association with

EDINBURGH & GLASGOW

EATING & DRINKING Guide £5.95 21st Edition 2014/15 list.co.uk

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Retail - Drink - Alcoholic & Non-Alcoholic

EDINBURGH & GLASGOW

EATING & DRINKING Guide INTRODUCING THE GUIDE INTRODUC

HOW TO USE THE GUIDE

NEW FOR 2014

EATING & DRINKING GUIDE AWARDS 2014

HITLISTS 2014

EDINBURGH

GLASGOW

106

EDINBURGH

GLASGOW

ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS

112

BAR & PUBS

115

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

130

CAFES

137

CAFES: THE WEE PLACES

145

CHINESE

147

FAR EAST

149

FISH

151

FRENCH

154

INDIAN

155

ITALIAN

159

MEXICAN

164

NORTH AMERICAN

165

ROUND THE WORLD

167

SCOTTISH

169

SPANISH

101

173

THAI

102

174

FUSION, KOREAN, JAPANESE, MALAYSIAN, VIETNAMESE

AFRICAN, AMERICAS, EUROPEAN, GREEK, MEDITERRANEAN, MIDDLE EASTERN, MONGOLIAN

MAPS INDEX

176 190

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INTRODUCTION

CONTRIBUTORS EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Donald Reid

As we enter full maturity with our 21st edition of the Eating & Drinking Guide we have made a few changes. Recognising the easy accessibility to information in our digital world, we have reduced the details given for each entry in the listings. Of course, that’s not to say that we have stopped our usual gathering of accurate details from each establishment. All the usual information – maps, opening times, disabled access, child facilities, wifi access and much more – can be found at each establishment’s dedicated page on our website at list.co.uk, which has been designed to work on any phone, tablet or computer, whether needing a nearby coffee shop or a fine-dining celebration. The dynamic and diverse eating and drinking scene in Glasgow and Edinburgh has meant we have shifted our focus squarely on them. As our website and Larder series of guides to the food and drink of Scotland grows in coverage of what is important across the nation, so have we dedicated this guide to the two major centres of dining out. In addition to our usual two Newcomer awards for each city, we’ve also introduced an award for New Bar of the Year – celebrating a recent opening our editorial team feels deserves recognition for bringing something new, influential or particularly enjoyable to the drinking scene. The reviews that make up the listings for the two cities have been freshly researched and written in the first three months of 2014. Our team of locally based reviewers have been eating out anonymously across both cities. They are our discerning eyes, ears and palates, helping us keep track of the movers and shakers of the ever-evolving and ever-improving scene. You’ll find all the notable openings over the last year in the guide, as well as our Hitlists, highlighting the best places within each section. There are Table Talks, too, with personal stories from some of the important players. Tiplists throughout the guide will show you where good things are happening in the world of coffee, beer, bargain lunches, takeaway sandwiches and much more – all carefully chosen by our 80-strong team of reviewers and editors who’ve been working hard to bring you all the exciting news about dining and drinking in these ever-changing cities.

CITY EDITORS Claire Ritchie (Edinburgh), Jay Thundercliffe (Glasgow) EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Keith Smith COPY EDITORS Claire Ritchie, Jay Thundercliffe REVIEWERS EDINBURGH Arts Venues & Attractions Jenni Brooks, Hannah Jefferson Bars & Pubs Barbara Adams, Tara Hepburn, Ian Hogg, Chiara Pannozzo, David Pollock, Yana Thandrayen Bistros & Brasseries Sylvie Docherty, Rob Fletcher, Paul McLean, Sandy Neil, Claire Sawers Cafés & Wee Places Justin Anderson, Poppy Baggott, Hannah Ewan, David Kettle, Chiara Pannozzo, Fraser Paterson, Tracey Reilly Chinese & Far East Frances Bentley, Stan Blackley, Courtney Peyton, Susan Smith Fish Margaret Craik French John Cooke, Jo Laidlaw Indian Beth Darbyshire, Tom Bruce-Gardyne, Miranda Heggie, Christopher Lambton Italian Louise Donoghue, Sian Hickson, James Teideman Mexican Colin Renton North American & Round the World Stan Blackley, Teddy Craig, Steve Morton, Justin Tilbury Scottish Doug Bond, Hannah Ewan, Claire Ritchie, Keith Smith Spanish Hilary Lloyd Thai Martin Crawford, David Cummins, Tracey Reilly Extras Jessica Dunleavy, Anita Joseph, Carol Main GLASGOW Arts Venues & Attractions Michelle Flynn, Laura Muetzelfeldt Bars & Pubs Laura Forsyth, Piers Hunt, David Kirkwood, David McPhee, Emma O’Bryen, Kevin Scott, Fraser Wilson Bistros & Brasseries Rowan Anderson, Tiff Griffin, Malcolm McGonigle, Andrea Pearson Cafés & Wee Places Kat Borrowdale, Sucheta Dutt, David Kirkwood, Kirsty Logan, Malcolm McGonigle, Andrea Pearson, Lewis Renton, Kevin Scott Chinese Tiff Griffin, David Kirkwood Far East Erica Goodey Fish Kirsty Bush French Martin Cross Indian Jane Allan, Bronwen Livingstone, Colette Magee Italian Jennifer Armitage, Carolyn McTaggart, Suzy Mercer, Andrea Mullaney Mexican Tiff Griffin, Emily Henderson, Donald MacInnes North American David Kirkwood, Rory McGinley Round the World Martin Cross, Donald MacInnes Scottish Malcolm Jack, Kevin Scott Spanish Emily Henderson, Donald MacInnes Thai Colette Magee PUBLISHERS Robin Hodge, Simon Dessain DIRECTOR, FOOD & DRINK Peter Brown ADMINISTRATION Amy Russell SALES & SPONSORSHIP Sheri Friers (Partnership Director), Chris Knox (Media Sales Manager), Nicky Carter, Debbie Thomson DIGITAL Simon Dessain (Digital Director), Andy Carmichael, Bruce Combe, Iain McCusker, Brendan Miles, Joe McManus ACCOUNTS Sarah Reddie DESIGN Lucy Munro PRODUCTION Simon Armin (Production Manager) PHOTOGRAPHY Caitlin Cooke, Jannica Honey, Stephen Robinson

Published by The List Ltd HEAD OFFICE: 14 High Street Edinburgh EH1 1TE Tel: 0131 550 3050 Fax: 0131 557 8500 list.co.uk email eat@list.co.uk Extensive efforts have been made to ensure the accuracy of the information in this publication; however, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for any errors it may contain. ©2014 The List Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior permission in writing of The List Ltd. ISSN: 1359-0693 This edition published April 2014. Printed by Acorn Web Offset Ltd, W. Yorkshire

HOW WE REVIEW

CIRCULATION & DISTRIBUTION Murray Robertson

The List Eating & Drinking Guide values its editorial independence. Unlike other restaurant guides which only cover venues that have paid to be included and where review visits are prearranged and carefully orchestrated, no entry in the Eating & Drinking Guide pays to be included, none is obliged to advertise and none is given sight of its review before publication. Restaurants covered in the guide are chosen on merit and reviewed incognito – to ensure our experience is that of any other diner. Each restaurant is freshly reviewed each year by a different writer from The List’s team. Our reviewers are experienced and knowledgeable, but they’re not professional food inspectors. They’re chosen to reﬂect an informed local diner’s viewpoint, and they are encouraged to express an unbiased and even-handed opinion. No special favours are accorded to the companies that choose to buy display advertising space in the guide – they are treated exactly the same when it comes to their review visit, write-up and Hitlist selections.

Thanks

To all the reviewers, researchers, contributors, photographers, editors and members of The List team who have helped put this year’s guide together. A lot of effort goes on behind the scenes with IT, databases, websites, production, advertising sales, administration and accounts, and each part contributes to the success of the guide. Thanks also to our sponsors Birra Moretti, the Scotch Beef Club and the many other supporters of the guide.

HOW TO USE The Guide

Establishments are grouped ﬁrst by city, then by section (Cafés, Indian, Scottish etc), then listed alphabetically. The information contained in each entry is explained below.

Address of establishment: This includes street address and city district. If there are several branches in the same city, these are normally listed together in one entry.

Name of establishment: The coloured asterisk indicates a Hitlist recommendation – our pick of the best in each section. Telephone number for bookings or enquiries, and website. No Kids: This indicates establishments where children are not allowed. NOTE: all venues licensed to serve alcohol are required by law to specify when and where children are permitted while alcohol is being served. By and large children under 18 are not permitted after about 8pm but the specific times and age groups vary slightly between premises by an hour or two. Most restaurants permit older children to dine with adults. If in doubt you should call the venue in advance.

The review: Our general description and independent overview of the establishment’s setting, background, ambience, décor and style of cuisine, including details about specific dishes, fixed-price meals and other relevant information.

= Indicates membership of the Scotch Beef Club.

4 The Glutton 55 Raresteak Street, East End (Map 6: E4, 51) 0141 666 1111, glutton.co.uk | Closed Mon | No Kids | £12 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Deservedly popular, the Glutton has built up a loyal following over the past ten years. Set menus, decent choice, friendly, efficient service and BYOB – it’s all you really need in an informal restaurant. The staples are all here: seafood, red and white meat and vegetarian options. But what marks the Glutton out is the interesting use of sauces and accompaniments. So with your salmon, you might get couscous and an orange caramel butter sauce; a black pudding starter comes with toasted walnuts and a chilli dressing. + Unfailingly friendly service - Desserts a bit of an anti-climax

Plus/minus points: These symbols indicate our reviewer’s assessment of the high point and low point of their visit or the restaurant in general.

Map reference: This refers to the restaurant’s location (map number followed by grid reference and point number) on one of the district maps to each city found on pages 176–189. Days closed indicates entire days an establishment is not open for business. Meal prices: Where an establishment serves lunch and dinner, the price in bold type is the average price of a standard twocourse evening meal for one from an à la carte menu, as calculated by our reviewers. If only set-price evening meals are offered, this is indicated. Where applicable, a lunch price is also stated. In the first instance, we’ve quoted the cost of a fixed price twocourse lunch for one. Otherwise, we’ve given the average price of a twocourse lunch from an à la carte menu. The lunch price is given in bold if the venue does not serve food at night. Drinks are not included in price calculations.

For full details on each establishment listed in the guide, including food served times, child facilities, WiFi access, set menus and social media links as well as individual locator maps and various search functions, go to food.list.co.uk

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NEW FOR 2014 EDINBURGH Affogato

The Southsider

CAFES

Aizle

Suree Thai

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

Apiary

Sylvesters

Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen

Th’eatery

Harajuku Kitchen

22 56

CAFES

The Grassmarket Café

Harajuku Kitchen

Imperial Palace

The Inn on the Mile

Jake’s Place

Jeremiah’s Taproom

Juniper 24

BARS & PUBS

The Wild Restaurant

Kiki’s

Laila’s Bistro

Ong Gie

Yellow Bench

The Other Place

Zupa ROUND THE WORLD

The Outhouse

The Leith Beer Co.

Lian Pu

BARS & PUBS

The Lioness of Leith

BARS & PUBS

Lucky Liquor Co.

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

Machina Espresso

ITALIAN

The Mad Hatter

Pickles

Pig in a Poke

Pilgrim

Farewell to . . .

Port of Siam (Broughton Street) The Potting Shed

The Priory Bar & Kitchen

BARS & PUBS

Rabbie’s Café

• Alla Romana • Ann Purna • Bar Roma • Bees

103

• Blue Moon Café • Bowl o’ Noodle

• Café Fish • Café Lucia

BARS & PUBS

• A Room in the Town

• Barioja 37

BARS & PUBS

CAFES

THAI

BARS & PUBS

Papavero

BARS & PUBS

CAFES: WEE PLACES

CHINESE

Panda & Sons

BARS & PUBS

BAR & PUBS

• The Galley • Gandhis

CAFES

• Good Seed Bistro • Hamburger Heaven

BARS & PUBS

Daft Jamie’s

Maialino

CAFES

SCOTTISH

Mary’s Milk Bar

Rascals

• Iggs

• Karen Wong’s Chinese Restaurant

BARS & PUBS

CAFES: WEE PLACES

Rocca @ Holyrood ITALIAN

• Locanda de Gusti The Devil’s Advocate

BARS & PUBS

Meadowberry

CAFES: WEE PLACES

Rollo

BARS & PUBS

• Loopy Lorna’s Tea House • Metropole

EH15

SCOTTISH

52 Canoes

Mia

ITALIAN

NORTH AMERICAN

Milk at Collective

The Safari Lounge

BARS & PUBS

ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS

Scotch

BARS & PUBS

• The Mulroy • La P’tite Folie (Frederick Street) • Pink Olive

Fleur de Sel

FRENCH

The Flying Dog BARS & PUBS

6 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

ROUND THE WORLD

ITALIAN

ROUND THE WORLD

FAR EAST

Cross & Corner

SCOTTISH

BARS & PUBS

CAFES

NORTH AMERICAN

Croma

BARS & PUBS

Credo

Oink (Canongate)

ROUND THE WORLD

Crafters Barn

FAR EAST

BARS & PUBS

Clerk’s Bar

Wagamama (Ocean Terminal)

MEXICAN

CC Blooms

FAR EAST

BARS & PUBS

Café Andamiro

No. 11 Brunswick Street

CAFES

Burger

100

SCOTTISH

CAFES: WEE PLACES

BARS & PUBS

The Bothy Restaurant & Drinkery

Twenty Princes Street: Grill & Smokehouse

FRENCH

Boteco do Brasil

Natural Foods Etc

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

CHINESE

Bodega

105

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

The Bluebird Café

THAI

CAFES

FAR EAST

Bistro Provence

INDIAN

Bistro Moderne

CAFES: WEE PLACES

CAFES

Bindi

Nardini’s

BARS & PUBS

Thyme Ting Thai Caravan

Gran Caffè

BARS & PUBS

Beer & Skittles

ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS

CHINESE

Bangkok Bar

MEXICAN

SCOTTISH

B&D’s Kitchen

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

The Atelier

104

THAI

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

The Apprentice

BARS & PUBS

Miller & Carter

SCOTTISH

Mother’s BARS & PUBS

Shezan

INDIAN

Social Bite CAFES

• Porto & Fi on the Mound • Russian Passion • Sing Thai

These are the restaurants, cafés and bars that have opened in the 12 months before publication or are reviewed in this guide for the ﬁrst time. To keep up with all the new openings worth knowing about in both Edinburgh and Glasgow through the year, keep an eye on the Food & Drink pages of each monthly edition of The List magazine or visit us at list.co.uk

GLASGOW All Star Brunch Bar

137

CAFES

Asian Gourmet

Fino

148

Frosoulla’s

CHINESE

ROUND THE WORLD

Avenue G Speciality Coffee House 137

The Hill

CAFES

BARS & PUBS

Babu Bombay Street Kitchen

156

INDIAN

Beresford Lounge

116 173 166 166 150

Hutchesons

135

Hyde

123

Indian Cottage

157

Indian Platform

157

INDIAN

166

NORTH AMERICAN

The Butterﬂy and the Pig West

123

INDIAN

FAR EAST

Burger Meats Bun

The Howlin’ Wolf

BARS & PUBS

NORTH AMERICAN

Bull Leader

122

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

NORTH AMERICAN

Buddy’s Bar Diner Grill

The Hope

122

BARS & PUBS

SPANISH

Bread Meats Bread

Veldt Deli 168

BARS & PUBS

La Boca

174

SPANISH

Jacker de Viande

166

NORTH AMERICAN

120

BARS & PUBS

Juan Chihuahua

164

MEXICAN

The New Café Salma Café Lovestruck

139

CAFES

Ka Ka Lok

149

Nic’s NYC Deli Charcoals Café

156

INDIAN

The Kitchen Window

146

Laboratorio Espresso

146

Las Iguanas

168

140

Little Urban Achievers Club

176

SPANISH

124

143

130

Wild Cabaret & Wicked Lounge

130

ARTS VENUES

152

FISH

Malone’s Irish Bar

124

126

BARS & PUBS

166

NORTH AMERICAN

McCune Smith Café

142

135

The Paciﬁc CHINESE

Meat Bar

124

126

BARS & PUBS

113

Mia Roma

162

143

CAFES

147

CAFES: WEE PLACES

Rockus

• Dino Ferrari • La Famiglia

128

BARS & PUBS

Simply Fish

• Café Salma • Che Que Bo!!!

ITALIAN

Roast

• Bar Gambrino • Berits & Brown

BARS & PUBS

The Plum Tree

• Assaggini • Balbir’s Saffron Lounge

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

CAFES

148

Farewell to . . .

BARS & PUBS

Ox and Finch

ARTS VENUES

The White Elephant BARS & PUBS

BARS & PUBS

1116 Argyle Street, Finnieston

Emirates Arena Café

150

CAFES

Old Salty’s

Dumpling Monkey

145

ROUND THE WORLD

CAFES

Dennistoun Bar-B-Que

The Wee Guy’s CAFES

FAR EAST

No Way Back

Cubatas

146

CAFES: WEE PLACES

146

CAFES: WEE PLACES

Crolla’s Gelateria

129

CAFES: WEE PLACES

167

ROUND THE WORLD

Cottonrake

The Vintage BARS & PUBS

CAFES: WEE PLACES

Nippon Kitchen Cook and Indi’s World Buffet

159

INDIAN

CHINESE

• Grassroots Organic • iFull Coffee

153

FISH

• The Khyber • The New York Kitchen

Singl-end

163

ITALIAN

• Papa Tony’s • Paperinos @ 78

Skinny’s

128

BARS & PUBS

The Squid and Whale

128

BARS & PUBS

Steampunk Café

128 147

CAFES: WEE PLACES

Veldt Deli Nippon Kitchen

• Southern Spice • Taste • Torna Sorrento • The Universal

168

ROUND THE WORLD

Via Italia

• Sideways

• Tattie’s Bistro

BARS & PUBS

Tempo Tea Bar

• Roma Mia

• Wau Café • Wise Monkey

164

• Yokoso

ITALIAN

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 7

EATING & DRINKING

In association with

AWARDS 2014

NEWCOMERS OF THE YEAR EDINBURGH THE ATELIER

GLASGOW THE GANNET

FOR BRINGING QUALITY, COSMOPOLITAN DINING TO THE CITY’S UNLIKELY QUARTERS

FOR PROVING WHY FINNIESTON’S RISE IS MORE THAN JUST A PASSING FAD

Recently, young chefs with time served in large and prestigious kitchens have been grabbing opportunities to set up on their own, often taking on unprepossessing sites in less fashionable parts of the city. So it was with The Atelier, opened in summer 2013 on Morrison Street, where a modern European menu buzzes with bon bons, pickles and confits, the beautifully cooked dishes offering a high-end culinary approach at midrange prices. The Atelier is a great example of the intimate, personal style of restaurant that’s energising the dining quarters Edinburgh didn’t realise it had. Q See page 91

Cast your mind back a few short years, and you’ll remember a very different Finnieston: run-down, mildly sketchy, with few noteworthy bars or restaurants. The Gannet hasn’t been alone in helping to pull the area up by its bootstraps, but owner-chefs Peter McKenna and Ivan Stein’s understatedly cool newcomer may be the best of the lot. Classily, confidently and intelligently run, the Gannet serves well-priced dishes that show off the Scottish larder. Sit with a glass of wine gazing out the big windows and, never mind a changed neighbourhood, you could be in a brand-new city. Q See page 170

TING THAI CARAVAN

SINGL-END

FOR SPARKING ZEST, FRESHNESS AND STYLE INTO CASUAL ASIAN DINING

FOR A MULTI-SENSORY DINING EXPERIENCE INSPIRED BY PROVINCIAL ITALY

Ting Thai first appeared as a much talked about Festival pop-up in 2012, and by late 2013 chefs Ting and Ae Tapparat were able to establish a more permanent spot in the heart of the university quarter. Supported by manager/owner Illana Middleton and co-owner Malcolm Innes, the restaurant’s stripped-down décor, sharing tables and disposable cartons help carry the vibrancy and tastes of Thai street food to Edinburgh. There’s little dumbing down for Western tastes, with lively combinations of interesting ingredients, heat where necessary but also mellowness and freshness in abundance. Q See page 105

Owner-chef Gianni Pagliocca wanted his new venture to be distinct from sister company The Butterfly and the Pig, and to create something of a destination venue. With grassroots approach, he chose an old warehouse off the beaten track on the same street as Glasgow Art School, and aesthetically stripped it back. It’s now an artistic backdrop to imaginative cooking inspired by Italy’s fertile provinces, bringing a sense of theatre and authentic flavours to the table. With a rustic market-style shop, deli and open-plan kitchen serving all day, Singl-end looks set to entertain for years to come. Q See page 163

8 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

The List’s annual Eating & Drinking Guide Awards highlight some of the best dining out experiences in Glasgow and Edinburgh. This year for the ﬁrst time, our New Bar Award recognises Edinburgh and Glasgow’s hottest drinking spots, highlighting them for their focus on good food, craft beers, welcoming atmosphere and contribution to their neighbourhood. Our Newcomer of the Year Awards are selected from restaurants opening in Edinburgh and Glasgow over the past 12 months. The winners are chosen by our experienced team of reviewers and editors for the promise, innovation and quality they bring to the local eating-out scene. Our goal is to recognise not only the eye-catching and glamorous new arrivals but also to highlight more affordable places and, especially, those offering something genuinely new, inspiring and original to the dining experience. Our judges’ Special Award, meanwhile, recognises the outstanding contribution of an establishment, enterprise, individual or family to the food and drink world in Scotland.

NEW BAR AWARD EDINBURGH

GLASGOW

BLACKFRIARS

MEAT BAR

FOR ITS CREATIVE COLLUSION OF BEER, ART AND ORIGINAL BAR FOOD

FOR ITS DEDICATION TO CARNIVORES AND COCKTAIL-DRINKERS

Previously a bohemian hangout renowned for its vegetarian menu, this Old Town stalwart has been impressively reincarnated: half-pub, half-bistro, all proper Bo. The bar serves some of the most inventive bar snacks in town – in pork pies and sprouting broccoli with goat’s curd, not to mention fish scratchings, it’s evident that chef Andrew Macdonald loves the informal format as a showcase for great food. There’s craft beer on tap, a beer garden out back and, you’re sure, something imaginative up their sleeve. Q See page 43

With the success of the Bath Street Palomino as a foundation, this basement venture on West Regent Street has taken carnivorous dining and drinking to a new level. A range of dishes devised with top-quality ingredients, carefully sourced, include Iberico sliders, pork cheeks and, of course, burgers. From smoking the produce for half a day, to diligently reducing the flavours that enliven cocktails garnished with even more meat, there’s a dedication to all things carnivorous at this attractive bar and diner. Q See page 124

FREDERICK BERKMILLER

DO L F H 6S RD

AWA

O Once, ‘the Auld Alliance’ meant that Edinburgh’s best rrestaurants were classical French and the most promising yyoung chefs trotted off to learn their trade in the kitchens of French chefs in London, or among the Michelin-star-dotted b banlieues of Paris. Since the late 1990s, however, the Scots have been rredressing some of the balance. More respect has b been given to local produce and chefs have allowed a c contemporary modern Scottish style to evolve from the fformal traditions of French cooking. If one local chef and restaurateur embodies that journey, iit’s Fred Berkmiller. He opened his first restaurant in tthe Grassmarket in 1998, setting up in the West End a ffew years later with what is now L’Escargot Blanc, and rrenovating an old clockmaker’s shop on Broughton Street tto open L’Escargot Bleu with his wife Betty in 2009. In the latter venue, in particular, he has embraced the S Scottish larder to the extent that while the cooking remains c clearly French in style, almost all the main ingredients a are from Scotland. Fred has forged relationships with llocal farmers and fishermen, championed rare and

unusual breeds, embraced whole-carcass cooking and determinedly served offal, Scottish snails and horse steak – meeting both controversy and epicurean curiosity head on. In 2011, Fred was the motivating force behind the Budding Chefs project, bringing trainee chefs from Brittany on a learning journey to Scotland to encounter the riches of local produce and the kitchens of the city’s more progressive chefs. There’s little doubt that without Fred’s vision, determination, powers of persuasion and, above all, his motivating sense of generosity, the initiative would have come and gone. Instead, with three subsequent visits by French students, and exchange visits to Brittany by young Scottish chefs led by Fred, the Budding Chefs journeys have become inspiring and important events on the local culinary calendar. With his belief in the sharing of knowledge, the conviviality of food and the compelling attraction of good quality produce, Fred has shown that a living, active Auld Alliance has plenty to offer contemporary Scotland. He has helped us understand that we are a country with every right to be as proud of our cooking, our chefs and our food as they are in France. Q See page 72 The List Eating & Drinking Guide 9

THE LIST’S INDEPENDENT RECOMMENDATIONS OF THE

4 GLASGOWHITLISTS 4 ARTS VENUES &

4 CHINESE

ATTRACTIONS

Amber Regent Loon Fung

Art Lover's Café The Balcony Café Edwardian Kitchen Restaurant The Hidden Lane Tea Room Saramago Café Bar

112 112 113 114 114

4 BARS & PUBS Bar Gandolfi Chinaski's Den Bar & Restaurant Lebowskis Meat Bar Mono The Pacific The Squid and Whale WEST Brewery

115 120 120 124 124 125 126 128 130

4 BISTROS & BRASSERIES Brasserie 19 The Brasserie at the Chip Café Gandolfi Central Market Cookie Epicures of Hyndland Fanny Trollope's Stravaigin Café Bar Urban Bar and Brasserie

Bar Soba The Hanoi Bike Shop Nanakusa

150 150 150

4 FISH Crabshakk The Fish People Café Gandolfi Fish Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery

151 152 152 153

4 FRENCH Le Bistro Beaumartin Brian Maule at Chardon d'Or

154 155

4 INDIAN Babu Bombay Street Kitchen Charcoals Dakhin The Den at Dining In with Mother India The Dhabba The Glasgow Curry Shop Masala Twist Tikka and Tapas Bar Mother India's Café

137 141 141 142 142 142 144 144

4 ITALIAN Battlefield Rest La Brava Celino's Italian Caffè Panevino La Parmigiana Riccardo's Italian Kitchen Singl-end

156 156 157 157 157 157 158 158 Jacker de Viande 160 160 160 162 163 163 163 163

144

4 CAFES: THE WEE PLACES Cottonrake Riverhill Coffee Bar Roast Roots and Fruits Smile Café

4 FAR EAST

132 132 132 133 133 134 134 136 136

4 CAFES Avenue G Delizique The Glad Café Kember & Jones Martha’s McCune Smith Café Siempre Bicycle Café Sonny & Vito's The Tearooms at the Butterfly & the Pig

Burger Meats Bun

147 149

146 147 147 147 147

4 MEXICAN Bibi's Cantina Juan Chihuahua

164 164

4 NORTH AMERICAN Buddy's Bar Diner Grill Burger Meats Bun

166 166

The Calabash Restaurant Nur Restauracja U Jarka Veldt Deli

4 SPANISH La Bodega Tapas Bar Malaga Tapas

4 ROUND THE WORLD 167 168 168 168

173 174

4 THAI Kitsch Inn Thai Lemongrass

174 174

4 SCOTTISH Cail Bruich The Gannet Hotel du Vin Bistro Restaurant at Blythswood Square Ubiquitous Chip Wee Lochan

CRAFT BOTTLED BEERS 10 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

166

170 170 170 171 173 173

Also look out for our Tiplists of further recommendations in dozens of different categories. Find them at the start of each city’s listings (for Edinburgh, see pages 12–17, for Glasgow see pages 106–111), and in various sections throughout the guide

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BEST PLACES TO EAT IN EACH SECTION OF THE GUIDE

4 EDINBURGHHITLISTS 4 ARTS VENUES Café Portrait Modern Art One Scottish Café & Restaurant The Storytelling Centre

Stack Dim Sum 18 18 21 21

4 BARS & PUBS The Bon Vivant Bond No. 9 BrewDog Edinburgh The King’s Wark Lucky Liquor Co. The Roseleaf Safari Lounge The Scran & Scallie The Vintage

23 24 24 35 35 39 39 39 41

4 BISTROS & BRASSERIES Bijou Blackfriars Credo The Dogs Earthy Canonmills Edinburgh Larder Bistro Galvin Brasserie de Luxe The Honours Monteiths The Royal Dick Bar & Bistro

42 43 44 44 45 45 46 46 47 48

4 CAFES La Barantine Circle by Di Giorgio Earthy Market Café Edinburgh Larder Café Glass & Thompson Gran Caffè Mimi's Bakehouse Peter’s Yard The Water of Leith Café Bistro

Kampong Ah Lee Malaysian Delight Kanpai Kim's Mini Meals Pho Vietnam House

4 SCOTTISH 68 68 68 69

4 FISH Fishers in the City Ondine

89 90

71 71

The Atelier Café St Honoré Castle Terrace Dining Room @ 28 Queen Street Field The Gardener’s Cottage The Kitchin

Restaurant Mark Greenaway Timberyard

El Quijote

Passorn Port of Siam Thai Orchid Ting Thai Caravan

72 73 74 74 75 75

4 INDIAN Bindi Mithas Rivage Suruchi Tanjore Tuk Tuk

Café Domenico Centotre Cucina Nonna's Kitchen Origano

75 76 77 78 78 80

81 81 81 82 82

4 MEXICAN The Blue Parrot Cantina Miro’s Cantina Mexicana

Calistoga Diner 7 52 Canoes

84 84

86 86 86

4 ROUND THE WORLD 64

Beirut Indaba

87 88

101

4 THAI

4 FRENCH L'Escargot Bleu La Garrigue Petit Paris The Pompadour by Galvin Restaurant Martin Wishart 21212

98 100

4 SPANISH 91 92 92 94 94 94 96

4 NORTH AMERICAN 61 62 63 64

4 CHINESE China Town

4 FAR EAST

Pomegranate Shebeen

4 ITALIAN 52 53 54 54 55 56 57 58 61

4 CAFES: THE WEE PLACES Caffè Espresso The Chocolate Tree The Manna House Union of Genius

Nonna’s Kitchen

11 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH, EH10 4HN

103 103 105 105

500 H R E V O BURG , EDINAURANTS RESTAFES AND C ARS B

Edinburgh THE FESTIVAL CITY

ith everything from from cool cafés to fine-dining tasting menus, Edinburgh has become firmly established as the UK’s second great dining city after London. Each year the number of quality eating experiences at all levels improves, as chefs, restaurateurs and other personalities on the local food and drink scene see their reputation and popularity grow locally, nationally and abroad. Edinburgh has become a place where culinary inspiration and innovation is not only found but is now anticipated. Good eating has become integrated in Edinburgh’s cultural richness: it is part of the festival experience, the tourist visit and the residents’ routine. The Edinburgh section of this guide covers over 500 places to eat out across the city, from converted police boxes in public parks to sumptuous restaurants in five-star hotels. The number of restaurants exploring the opportunities to use and cook with good quality local produce is undoubtedly on the rise, the best of them taking considerable strides towards giving local eating the credibility and distinctive identity it deserves. Yet it’s true that we’re also drawn to trotting the globe in search of more distant flavours and inspiring approaches to food. Edinburgh has a long history of providing Indian, French and Italian food, but these days you can

12 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

also find cafés, restaurants and takeaways serving Spanish, Thai, Malaysian, Kurdish and Japanese food – to name just a handful of the options. Many of these bring a cultural connection in the form of art, music and traditional events linked to their country of origin. The dynamism of Edinburgh’s food and drink scene is increasingly spilling out from the boundaries of conventional restaurant spaces and familiar menus. The city’s various farmers’ and produce markets are among the best in Scotland, and there’s better street food than ever before, not just during the festival but throughout the year. Growers, creators and producers of Scotland’s food and drink are given ever-more recognition on menus around the city. Where whisky has led in telling the world that Scotland has the skills, creativity, heritage and taste to produce great drink, so local beer, meat, fish, shellfish, fruit, cheese and much more is following. Every year The List follows these trends and evolutions, plotting the landmarks and signposts of our food and drink scene. The Eating & Drinking Guide aims to bring you the greatest hits, the top tips and all you need to know about eating out in Edinburgh. Follow us in these pages, but also online and in the monthly List magazine, where you can catch up with the news and new openings right through the year.

TABLE Talk

• Eilidh Brunton • Charlie Cornelius • Stuart Muir • Gerry Neilson • Richard Taylor

32 60 78 88 94

TIP/,67

THE EATING & DRINKING GUIDE TEAM’S RECOMMENDATIONS

FOR NEIGHBOURHOOD DINING • • • • • • • • • • • •

Al Dente Bijou Café Renroc Indaba The Roseleaf The Skylark The Spice Pavillion Suburban Pantry Sweet Melindas Three Birds Restaurant Toast Wildﬁre

The Skylark

80 42 53 88 39 49 78 49 71 50 50 100

FOR A SENSE OF PLACE • • • • • • • • • • • •

Café St Honoré Forth Floor Restaurant The Gardener’s Cottage Gran Caffè Old Chain Pier Palm Court The Pompadour by Galvin Rhubarb The Royal Dick Bar & Bistro Timberyard The Tower The Witchery by the Castle

92 94 94 56 36 58 74 98 49 100 100 100

The Apprentice B&D’s Kitchen Bindi The Caley Sample Room Credo 56 North Indigo Yard Kampong Ah Lee Malaysian

Delight Kebab Mahal Punjabi Junction Rivage Treacle

68 76 77 77 40

FOR ITS SOURCING POLICY

FOR BUDGET DINING • • • • • • • •

• • • •

91 64 74 26 44 30 34

• Café St Honoré 92 • Earthy Canonmills / Market Café 45, 54 • Edinburgh Larder Bistro / Café 45, 54 • The Gardener’s Cottage 94 • Iglu 96 • The Kitchin 96 • Ondine 71

• Restaurant Martin Wishart • Rhubarb • The Scottish Café & Restaurant • Timberyard • Wedgwood the Restaurant

75 98 98 100 100

FOR DIETARY REQUIREMENTS • • • • •

The Beach House Bindi Café St Honoré David Bann The Engine Shed

52 75 92 44 54

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 13

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La Favorita Hendersonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Restaurant Indaba Loudonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CafĂŠ & Bakery Treacle Yeni Zupa

81 96 88 56 40 90 90

FOR ITS WINE LIST â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘

The Bon Vivant Calistoga Divino Enoteca Ecco Vino La Garrigue Hotel du Vin The Kitchin Ondine Restaurant Martin Wishart Timberyard The Vintage The Witchery by the Castle

23 86 81 30 73 46 96 71 75 100 41 100

FOR A ROMANTIC MEAL â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘

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Bijou 42 CafĂŠ St HonorĂŠ 92 Castle Terrace 92 Forth Floor Restaurant 94 Galvin Brasserie de Luxe 46 The Honours 46 Italian Kitchen 82 Restaurant Mark Greenaway 98 Rhubarb 98 Thai Orchid 105 Timberyard 100 The Witchery by the Castle 100

â&#x20AC;˘ Steak â&#x20AC;˘ The Vintage â&#x20AC;˘ Tuk Tuk

FOR KIDS & FAMILIES â&#x20AC;˘ The Beach House â&#x20AC;˘ The Bothy Restaurant & Drinkery â&#x20AC;˘ Centotre â&#x20AC;˘ The Espy â&#x20AC;˘ Giulianoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on the Shore â&#x20AC;˘ Gorgie City Farm CafĂŠ â&#x20AC;˘ Hemma â&#x20AC;˘ Joseph Pearceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;˘ Maryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Milk Bar â&#x20AC;˘ Mimiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bakehouse â&#x20AC;˘ Nonnaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kitchen â&#x20AC;˘ The Water of Leith CafĂŠ Bistro

Bond No. 9 The Caley Sample Room Calistoga Edinburgh Larder Bistro Hemma Kampung Ali Malaysian Delight â&#x20AC;˘ Khushiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;˘ Pancho Villaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;˘ Saigon Saigon

â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘

The Beach House Bistro Provence CafĂŠ Cassis CafĂŠ Modern One Chaophraya Fatma Forth Floor Brasserie

24 26 86 45 33 68 76 85 67

52 24 81 30 82 55 33 34 63 57 82 61

FOR OUTDOOR DINING

FOR GROUPS & PARTIES â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘ â&#x20AC;˘

99 41 80

CafĂŠ St HonorĂŠ

52 72 44 18 102 87 45

• Michael Neave Kitchen & Whisky Bar • Petit Paris • The Pompadour by Galvin • Port of Siam • Steak • Spoon • Th’eatery

97 74 74 103 99 49 22

FOR LATE DINING • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

The Gateway Restaurant Petit Paris The Salisbury Arms Teuchters Landing The Tower

20 74 39 40 100

FOR PRE-THEATRE • • • • •

Calistoga CC Blooms Field Fishers in the City Leven’s

86 28 94 71 103

B&D’s Kitchen Boteco do Brasil China Town Kebab Mahal Mariachi Miro’s Cantina Mexicana Pomegranate Red Squirrel Thai Lemongrass Turkish Kitchen The Witchery by the Castle Yes Sushi

64 87 64 76 84 84 89 38 104 90 100 70

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FOR BYOB • • • • • • • • • • • •

Absolute Thai Beirut Brazilian Sensation The Forest Café Hanam’s Indaba Khushi’s Mithas Pho Vietnam House Pomegranate Rivage Tuk Tuk

102 87 87 55 88 88 76 76 69 89 77 80

3 Royal Terrace, Edinburgh, EH7 5AB. T: 0845 22 21212 • W: www.21212restaurant.co.uk E: reservations@21212restaurant.co.uk

E F F I C I E N T. . . FA S T. . . R E L I A B L E . . . S A F E

FOR VEGETARIAN OPTIONS • • • • • •

Beirut

• • • • • •

The Atelier 91 Bindi 75 Café Nom de Plume 53 Centotre 81 David Bann 44 Earthy Canonmills / Market Café 45, 54 The Forest Café 55 Henderson’s Restaurant 96 Indaba 88 Kalpna 75 Mithas 76 Restaurant Martin Wishart 75

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Edinburgh Food Events 14–19 MAY CREATE:EAT:WHISKY 4 Wellington Place, Edinburgh, jellyandgin.com A ‘multi-sensory whisky adventure’ from Jelly&Gin that explores the whisky-making process through its sights, sounds and tastes. 25 MAY THE FAMOUS GROUSE FEASTIVAL Glenturret Distillery, The Hosh, Crieff, thefamousfeastival.net The Famous Grouse distillery and visitor attraction in scenic Perthshire plays host to the Famous Grouse Feastival, with chances to sample exclusive whiskies, masterclasses in whisky-themed cocktail making and live music. 19–22 JUN THE ROYAL HIGHLAND SHOW Royal Highland Centre, royalhighlandshow.org Part agricultural show, part food festival, part family

Create:Eat

TIP/,67 TOP FIVE FISH ‘N’ CHIPS THE TAILEND 14–15 Albert Place, Leith Walk, 0131 555 3577 Long been touted as the poshest of Edinburgh’s fish bars, the haddock here is succulent and crisp, while the chips are cooked in beef dripping. L’ALBA D’ORO 7 Henderson Row, New Town, 0131 557 2580, lalbadoro.com At the forefront of fish-frying in the capital for nearly 40 years, serving fish in golden, non-greasy batter with spot-on chips. CAFE PICCANTE 19 Broughton Street, Broughton, 0131 478 7884, cafepiccante.com Piccante’s roguish charm draws in a diverse range of diners, and they make a mean fish supper too. FRANCO’S 7 Comely Bank Road, Stockbridge, 0131 332 3557, francosstockbridge.co.uk The Alonzi family have been feeding the residents of Stockbridge for nearly half a century, with fresh, thick haddock fillets always cooked to order. THE CODFATHER 3–5a Sciennes, Southside, 0131 629 1162 codfatheredinburgh.co.uk This fish bar serves up real quality, elevating the humble haddock to a Don-like eminence.

16 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

fun day out, with everything from motor, equine and craft programmes to food and drink and children’s activities.

family-friendly events include tower-top trips, a boat ﬂotilla, ﬁreworks, a concert and a torchlight procession.

8–10 AUG FOODIES FESTIVAL Inverleith Park, foodiesfestival.com Annual celebration of chefs and ingredients, with masterclasses and demonstrations in a park setting.

6–21 SEP SCOTTISH FOOD & DRINK FORTNIGHT Various venues, scottishfoodand drinkfortnight.co.uk Annual celebration of Scotland’s fantastic larder offering more than 200 festivals, farmers’ markets and tasting events around the country.

8–10 AUG WHISKY FRINGE Mansﬁeld Traquair, royalmilewhiskies.com The much-anticipated annual event from Royal Mile Whiskies always sells out fast, so book early for a chance to sample a huge range of whiskies and rums. Sláinte! 4–13 SEP FORTH BRIDGES FESTIVAL Forth Road Bridge, forthbridgesfestival.com To mark 50 years of the iconic Forth Road Bridge, ten days of

FOOD SHOPS EARTHY FOODS & GOODS Causewayside & Canonmills earthy.co.uk GEORGE BOWER BUTCHERS 75 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge georgebowerbutchers.co.uk IJ MELLIS CHEESEMONGER 30a Victoria Street, 330 Morningside Road & 6 Bakers’ Place, Stockbridge mellischeese.co.uk LUPE PINTOS 24 Leven Street, Tollcross lupepintos.com REAL FOODS 37 Broughton Street & 8 Brougham Street realfoods.co.uk VALVONA & CROLLA 19 Elm Row, Leith Walk valvonacrolla.com WELCH FISHMONGERS 23 Pier Place, Newhaven welchﬁshmongers.co.uk

12–14 SEP EAT, DRINK, DISCOVER SCOTLAND Royal Highland Centre, eatdrinkdiscoverscotland. co.uk A major new food and drink event with a focus on regional foods and Scotland’s natural larder, complemented by masterclasses, theatre and educational activities for children.

TIP/,67 TOP FIVE TAKEAWAYS MISO & SUSHI 46a Haymarket Terrace, West End, 0131 337 7466, misoandsushi.readyforfood.com Some of the best sushi in town, as well as a full menu of Japanese and Chinese dishes. SONAR GAO 191 Great Junction Street, Leith, 0131 555 2424, sonargao.com Well-established Bangladeshi takeaway doing a good job of the classics as well as some off-piste options including lamb laknavi. SPOILT FOR CHOICE 19 Marionville Road, Meadowbank, 0131 661 1183, spoiltforchoice1.com Afro-Caribbean soul food including goat stew, jerk chicken and a host of veggie curries. LOS CARDOS 281 Leith Walk, 0131 555 6619 loscardosonline.com One of very few places in Edinburgh offering Mexican delivery, highlights include the carnitas and both meat and veggie haggis burritos. ZEN KITCHEN 138 Dundas Street, New Town, 0131 556 9988, zenkitchen.co.uk Various Asian cuisines including less-delivered ones like Malaysian, Filipino and Vietnamese.

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FARMERSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; & FOOD MARKETS â&#x20AC;˘ Edinburgh Farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Market Castle Terrace, edinburghfarmersmarket.co.uk 9amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;2pm, every Saturday â&#x20AC;˘ Stockbridge Market Jubilee Gardens, stockbridgemarket.com 10amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;5pm, every Sunday â&#x20AC;˘ Portobello Market â&#x20AC;˘ Brighton Park, pedal-porty.org.uk/food/portobellomarket 9.30amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1.30pm, ďŹ rst Saturday of the month â&#x20AC;˘ Balerno Farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Market Balerno Main Street, balernovt.org.uk 9amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1pm, second Saturday of the month â&#x20AC;˘ Juniper Green Community Market Lanark Road, junipergreencc.org.uk 9amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1pm, fourth Saturday of the month

Foodies Festival with top chefs

Edinburgh Inverleith Park Aug 8, 9, 10

â&#x20AC;˘ Edinburgh Markets â&#x20AC;&#x201C; City Centre outside St Maryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cathedral, facebook.com/ EdinburghMarket 11amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;5pm, every Saturday â&#x20AC;˘ Edinburgh Markets â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Southside outside Royal Commonwealth Pool, facebook.com/ EdinburghMarket 10amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;4pm, every Sunday (Mayâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;October) â&#x20AC;˘ Platform 2 Waverley Railway Station, localmotivemarkets.co.uk 11amâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;7pm, every Friday (from 2 May 2014) â&#x20AC;˘ Morningside Farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Market The Merlin, 168-172 Morningside Road, morningsidefarmersmarket.co.uk 9.30amâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;3.30pm, third Saturday of the month

TV CHEF MARK GREENAWAY COOKING LIVE

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0844 995 1111 www.foodiesfestival.com

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 17

ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS

list.co.uk

EDINBURGH

ARTS VENUES &ATTRACTIONS Finding themselves in some of Edinburgh’s most impressive buildings and with a captive audience, it might be easy for the cafés in this category to rest on their laurels. Happily most have built up reputations in their own right. For many the creative ethos runs throughout and there is a pleasing sense of symbiosis between the venues themselves and the eateries that serve them. Menus are adapted to fit changing exhibitions, outside grounds are used to grow produce, and diners can enjoy spectacular views, intriguing interiors and inspiring spaces for children to play. It seems cake appreciation remains a favourite pastime in the capital, alongside a healthy diet of arts and culture. Reviewers: Jenni Brooks, Hannah Jefferson

Bon pillon 15 Howe Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: C3, 28) 0131 538 2505, bonpapillon.com | £8 (lunch)

Bon Papillon is a gallery, framer’s shop and café occupying a light, appealing space in the New Town. The friendly co-owners have a hands-on approach and their creativity is everywhere to be seen. The food story here is the scones, which are highly fêted by some and have a growing reputation online. Cinnamon, cheese and fruit versions are available daily and regular specials include blueberry or lemon and ginger. Be warned though – huge and flat, taking a variety of shapes and on the crumbly side, these are not for the traditionalist. For savouries, soups such as borscht vie with mains like chêvre

chaud, a comforting dish of goat’s cheese on garlic toast served with sundried tomatoes and a generous salad. At £2.50 the cakes are great value and come beautifully presented with sliced fruit and a glistening trail of honey. Pear and cinnamon with Demerara sugar is moist and fruity, while beetroot and chocolate is popular if a little dry. There’s always an ‘everything-free’ option too, for example raw chocolate brownies, demonstrating the care and attention typical of this amiable place. + Homemade food with the personal touch - Limited breakfast options

Cafe Hub Castlehill, Royal Mile, Old Town See Cafés

4 Café Modern One Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art One, 75 Belford Road, West End (Map 4: A2, off) 0131 332 8600, heritageportfolio. co.uk | £9 (lunch)

With tables spilling out into a picturesque walled garden, the Modern Art Gallery is an idyllic lunch spot on a sunny day. Worth the jaunt from the city centre for the salads and cake as well as the art, the café is bright and inviting with a well-ordered, minimalist approach to décor that still manages to be homely. In keeping with the ambience, food here is stylishly prepared with a creative use of fresh, healthy ingredients. The gallery is into a second year of cultivating a small section of its own garden and chef Darren Ellison brings with him salad expertise from Edinburgh’s Earthy cafés. A cabbage and carrot salad with hints of orange and cumin, or curried cauliflower with almonds, cranberries and potatoes are highlights alongside koftas and a sweet potato and spinach dahl. There are also the usual ciabattas, soup and baked potatoes on offer, and the salted caramel billionaire slice is not to be missed, along with other homemade bakes like a raspberry and green tea loaf. + A great spot for a relaxed al fresco coffee with delicious cake - Can be very busy at lunchtime

Café Modern Two Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art Two, 73 Belford Road, West End (Map 4: A2, off) 0131 624 6273, heritageportfolio. co.uk | £13.50 (set lunch)

It’s hard to choose between the two café rooms at the Modern Art Gallery Two. Sitting under the shadow of a sizeable Eduardo Paolozzi sculpture makes for an intriguing place to eat, while a second dining area embodies a serene period style, with mirrored walls and black and white photos as well as a counter laden with macaroons and colourful cakes. Either way there is a pleasing sense of occasion here, both inside and out. The Georgian mansion building and former orphanage was converted to house Dada and Surrealist art and is a warren of rooms to be discovered. The eatery on the ground floor is both a relaxing coffee stop for some post art appreciation and a genuinely good lunch option in its own right. Food is cooked from scratch, down to homemade jam and oatcakes, and includes pickings from the gallery’s own allotment. Try the coley fishcakes with salad and garlic aioli. For pudding you can’t go wrong with sticky toffee pudding or berry crumble, and there is a plethora of more unusual bakes and wellexecuted favourites. + Well-cooked food at an impressive venue - Not much in the way of sandwiches and lighter options

4 HITLIST

ARTS VENUES 4 Café Modern One It’s hard to go wrong here with coffee and picture-perfect cakes in the garden.

4 Café Portrait Classy surroundings, inventive food and quality baking offer a lovely accompaniment to an afternoon’s picture-gazing.

4 The Scottish Café Pleasing plates of food, professionally served alongside stunning views of the city.

4 Storytelling Centre Café A welcoming city-centre retreat with satisfying bowls of soup.

4 Café Portrait Scottish National Portrait Gallery, 1 Queen Street, New Town (Map 1B: A5, 58) 0131 624 6423, heritageportfolio. co.uk | £8.50 (lunch)

High ceilings, gothic windows and world-class portraiture set the scene for this top-notch café experience. A rolling seasonal menu means no day is ever the same, but it’s pretty sure to offer quality ingredients combined in exciting and delicious ways. Fabulous salads are the stars of the show, each colourful, distinct and full of flavour. Sweet potato wedges with plums, chilli, goat’s cheese and a balsamic reduction are sweet, sticky and tangy, while Madras beetroot with

coconut, rice and sultanas has a deep, earthy bite to it. The sandwiches, soups and hot mains are no less enticing – a brie sandwich is pepped up by sumac, roasted aubergine and a pomegranate dressing. The wide range of scones and cakes are a delight and there are plenty of gluten-free options. Owing to the canteen-style service, some genteel pressure comes in when queuing and securing tables, but a token system means you can nip back for your coffee when ready for it. The addition of table-service afternoon teas during 2014 looks set to be the icing on the cake. + Culinary excellence in fine surroundings - The queues

City Art Centre Café City Art Centre, 2 Market Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 10) 0131 226 4965, edinburghmuseums.org.uk | £11 (lunch)

Managed by Glenfinlas, the same team as the cafés at St Giles’ Cathedral, the Scottish Storytelling Centre and the Fruitmarket Gallery, the City Art Centre Café is an assured operation. Once a warehouse, the gallery occupies eight storeys and the lofty ceilings and mural-adorned walls of the ground-floor café echo the space, light and colour found elsewhere in the huge building. There’s a reliable selection of lunchtime staples including soup, which might be tomato, sweet potato and basil or parsnip, rosemary and lentil, plus a hot dish of the day and a changing daily savoury tart with perhaps a broccoli and blue cheese filling in a gorgeously crumbly homemade crust. The delistyle sandwiches are served warm – a nice touch which turns a traditional ploughman’s into an unctuous mouthful. Kids are offered smaller portions from the main menu and dinky coffee cups of soup. The coffee is fair trade and well sourced, and the cake counter is well worth a look – after all, nothing hits the spot like a dark, decadent and squidgy chocolate fudge brownie after a hard hour’s art appreciation. + Those chocolate brownies - Lacks a certain charm Th’eatery (page 22): a flexible menu of made-to-order dishes gives this atrium space a neighbourhood bistro feel 18 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS

list.co.uk

EDINBURGH

Dovecot Café by Stag Espresso Dovecot Studios, 10 Infirmary Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A4, 12) stagespresso. com | Closed Sun | £6.50 (set lunch)

The bright, welcoming café within the Dovecot tapestry exhibition space is a happy discovery for tourists, local workers and art appreciators alike. Nestled within the former Infirmary Street swimming baths, it’s a spot well worth seeking out for its concise menu of interesting soups, salads and sandwiches, such as smoked salmon with wasabi cream cheese on sourdough, or a salad of feta, beetroot and edamame beans. Soup of the day might be a large bowl of celery and Stilton, the cheese scattered prettily on top, and there’s the option to partner the hearty soup with a generous halfsandwich. There are always plenty of veggie choices and there’s enough variety to keep all but the fussiest happy. With a tempting display of cakes and traybakes on the counter, this is a great spot to linger with a coffee of an afternoon, but equally a place for a quick bite of lunch, as service is slick and quick. + Wholesome salads and delicious sandwiches - Menu doesn’t change very often

The Drill Hall Café 34 Dalmeny Street, Leith (Map 5B: B3, 9) 0131 555 7100, outoftheblue.org.uk | Closed Sun | £8 (lunch)

Under the management of arts trust Out of the Blue, Leith’s Drill Hall is a bubbling spring of cultural nourishment for the creatively inclined and collaboratively minded. The café occupies one end of the vast, lightfilled hall, a community space used variously for film screenings, ping-pong tournaments, indoor markets, concerts and more, flanked by studios where the arts sparks fly. While Out of the Blue provides food for the soul, the Drill Hall Café, like a concerned parent, provides sensible food for the body. The changing daily menu focuses on simple dishes: three healthy soups served with artisan bread from Manna House, a trio of crowd-pleasing mains such as homemade pie or pasta for £6 or less, a standard selection of sandwiches and generously stuffed morning rolls. Leave room for a cake and you’ll be presented with old-school favourites such as banana loaf, ginger cake, flapjacks, and a moist carrot cake with bright, sharp icing to accompany your ethically sourced coffee. On the second Saturday of each month is the popular ‘Bruncheon’ offering brunch and live music from 11.30am–3pm. + Buzzy, industrious setting and downto-earth prices - Sandwich menu could be a bit more adventurous

Filmhouse Café Bar 88 Lothian Road, West End (Map 4: C2, 38) 0131 229 5932, filmhousecinema. com | £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

The Filmhouse Café Bar has a real buzz about it, owing much but not all to the animated highbrow chat spilling from tables of post-screening filmgoers. The cinema’s independent ethos is matched by that of the café whose menu of wholesome, homemade food centres on vegetarian and vegan staples. Highlights include the vegetable lasagne which puts many of the same name to shame, and nachos ideal for sharing. As with many long-standing menus, what you get on the plate can tend to deviate away from its description. So Stilton, nut and spinach nuggets are tasty morsels but the component ingredients are hard to distinguish. The creative energy is to be found in daily specials which include regular chicken dishes, risottos 20 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Café Modern Two (page 18): elegant period features provide a serence atmosphere for post-exhibition sustenance

and pasta offerings, such as large fresh pasta parcels with a succulent pea and asparagus filling covered in rocket leaves and luscious lemon cream sauce. There’s a large selection of draught beers, the coffee is excellent, and desserts such as passion cake make a good accompaniment. In addition, a new breakfast menu is served until noon. + A cultural hub and destination in its own right - The lack of natural light is wearing

The Forest Café 141 Lauriston Place, Tollcross See Cafés

The Fruitmarket Gallery Café Fruitmarket Gallery, 45 Market Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 3) 0131 226 1843, fruitmarket.co.uk | £12 (lunch)

There’s a surprising amount packed in to this independent gallery, bookshop and café. Despite being tucked away and perhaps easy to miss from the outside, the Fruitmarket is enduringly popular with art enthusiasts and discerning tourists and is a treasure trove for those who love coffee and culture. The exhibitions are always free, and the food is inventive and well cooked. The usual café staples like soups, wraps and rolls sit happily alongside more cosmopolitan fare. Quinoa, nuts, homemade falafels and pitta bread are plentiful, with meatier options including haggis and black pudding bonbons and Greek lamb keftedes. The popular mezze platter is a neat selection of homemade potted hummus, tzatziki and roasted beetroot with a well-dressed side salad that’s much more than an afterthought. The café aspires towards a trendy, arty ambience in its design and décor but is nevertheless inviting and unintimidating and is a satisfying stop-off for coffee or lunch. The beetroot and hazelnut cake is well worth a try, and baking traditionalists will not be disappointed by the brownies and carrot cake. + An interesting venue for a coffee - Main meals are pricier than your average café

The Gateway Restaurant John Hope Gateway Centre, Royal Botanic Garden, Arboretum Place, Inverleith (Map 1B: A1, off) 0131 552 2674, gatewayrestaurant.net | £13.95 (set lunch)

The Gateway Restaurant makes the most of its location at the Royal Botanic Gardens in terms of its outlook as well as its use of home-grown produce, as dishes are enlivened by freshly picked salads, herbs and vegetables from the grounds and polytunnels. This is the Botanics’ upmarket food option, alongside the more informal Terrace Café, though it has relaxed somewhat on its fine-dining agenda since opening in 2009 and is now a more laid-back and accessible lunch stop. Classics like bangers and mash are served with hints of sophistication, and sticky toffee and banana pudding will abate hunger after a walk in the fresh air. Deli sandwiches are far from light bites, including generous portions of homemade focaccia and accompanied by a mini deep-fry basket of chips. The outdoor decking is a lovely option for afternoon tea on sunny days, with views over the garden. The restaurant’s modern interior in the John Hope Gateway Centre also creates a bright, open and energising spot to eat, with glass fronts and interesting architectural features. + Stunning location, particularly for outdoor dining - Noise does carry from the busy visitor centre up to the restaurant on the mezzanine floor

Milk at Collective City Observatory & City Dome, 38 Calton Hill, New Town (Map 1B: D6, 41) 0131 629 6022, cafemilk.co.uk

Part of Collective’s revitalisation of the City Observatory site on Calton Hill is an open-air café, run by the team behind Morrison Street favourite Milk, who collaborated with the visual art organisation on a pilot pop-up here during the festival. This new venture, however, is a permanent one, located next to the City Dome. There’s a little kiosk and outdoor seating for around

a dozen. A perspex canopy provides some shelter from the elements, with the National Monument and the capital skyline providing a memorable backdrop to your munching. Restricted kitchen space necessitates the menu is a strippedback version of their regular offering, including freshly made sandwiches (such as flatbread with roasted rosemary, carrot hummus and dukkah-spiced nuts), home bakes and hot and cold drinks. Keep an eye out for their own version of paletas – Latin American-style fresh fruit ice pops – in the summer months. [Not fully open at time of going to press. Check food.list. co.uk for updates.]

Museum Brasserie National Museum of Scotland, Chambers Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 47) 0131 247 4084, nms.ac.uk | £12 (lunch)

The food at the Museum Brasserie has earned itself a reputation which brings a variety of returning regulars as well as the expected city sightseers. Although its location lacks the light, airy grandeur of the rest of the museum, the basement café-bistro is nevertheless an atmospheric spot for lunch, amid stone walls and a buzz of activity. The restaurant has evolved since opening in 2011 and now has a relaxed vibe, with sofas and a plethora of cakes on display. The menu retains a touch of foodie finesse, however, and more substantial options than the normal café fare, with a selection of specials alongside burgers and upmarket open sandwich specials on brioche rolls and sourdough ciabatta. Cullen skink loaded generously with fish is a favourite, while the haggis and clapshot or Scottish salmon tagliatelle will not disappoint visitors looking for some local flavour, both cooked with enough creativity to keep them tempting. As well as students and city professionals the brasserie is also popular with parents, and the children’s meals are good value for money. + Well-cooked food alongside a host of national treasures - The more tucked-away tables provide privacy but less than exciting views

ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS

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St Giles’ Cathedral Café St Giles’ Cathedral, High Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C2, 14) 0131 225 5147, glenfinlas.com | £10 (lunch)

St Giles’ Cathedral Café is a well-hidden corner of calm on the busy Royal Mile. Squeezed into a compact space under the main sanctuary, tables spill along an old stone passageway into two small rooms, and on sunny days out on to the courtyard at the back. Arched church windows and tiny stained-glass skylights add hints of atmosphere along with the occasional hum of organ music from upstairs. Happily the café avoids feeling like a tourist trap despite its location, and hosts local lunching professionals as well as visitors to the church and those who are sharp enough to spot it on their way past. Vegetarians are particularly well catered for and salads are worth a try. A blend of grated carrot and courgette is flavoured with a scattering of dried berries and cashew nuts, and goes well with a feta and spinach pie. Meat options are limited but stovies and coronation chicken in a deli roll leave no complaints. The standard selections of café traybakes are all homemade and the chocolate brownies are particularly tempting. + Laid-back friendly staff - No views and lacking slightly on natural light

4 The Scottish Café National Gallery of Scotland, The Mound, City Centre (Map 2A: B1, 1) 0131 226 6524, thescottishcafeandrestaurant. com | £16 (set lunch)

In keeping with its art gallery location, even light bites like the chicken liver and Black Ball Stout pâté or homemade butteries are plated with a picturesque finesse at the Scottish Café. Functioning as both a restaurant and café (the former is covered in a separate write-up in the Scottish section on page 98), the atmosphere strikes a perfect balance between professional competence and informality. The fact that painstaking attention is given to sourcing highquality ingredients from around Scotland is evident on both the menu and the palate. Proprietors Victor and Carina Contini have taken their ‘Happy Food’ philosophy to impressive lengths, including cultivating their own kitchen garden. Sharing platters for two are a tempting lunch option: the Corrigan pie platter makes a reasonably priced treat, served with homemade chutney, home-grown salad and mugs of soup. Vegetarians are perhaps less well catered for when it comes to a light meal, but even the less obviously exciting dishes such as a Mull cheddar and winter spiced coleslaw salad prove to be creative and accomplished. Don’t miss the chance to enjoy a slice of banana and butterscotch loaf with impressive views of the city. + Intelligently sourced food alongside stunning views - Not open in the evening

The Stand 5 York Place, New Town (Map 1B: B5, 57) 0131 558 7272, thestand.co.uk | No Kids | No food Mon–Wed | £11 (dinner)

Despite a slightly rough and ready vibe, the Stand comedy club has all the elements of a good night out. Surrealist paintings on the walls and stools scattered around bar tables in front of the stage give the feeling of a student hang-out to this basement venue on the edge of Edinburgh’s New Town. The audience though are a varied bunch and the stampede at doors-opening time is proof of its popularity. As a result the club is almost instantly a buzzing and energetic place to be and a tangible sense of expectation makes it a fun option for a meal. The food is a satisfying

selection of pub grub in keeping with the surroundings, including the usual burgers and bangers and mash as well as nachos and burritos. Portions are generous and served with a homemade, no-fuss approach but with pleasing attention to salads on the side and quality ingredients. A Jacob lamb burger with a mint mayonnaise and served with over-sized chips has a great fresh taste. Main meals are clearly given priority in the kitchen: puddings are limited and possibly not worth saving room for. + A fun place to get a good feed - Puddings are limited and a bit disappointing

The Very Essence of Burgundy

4 The Storytelling Café Scottish Storytelling Centre, 43 High Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A2, 4) 0131 556 1229, scottishstorytellingcentre. co.uk | Oct–Jun: Closed Sun | £11 (lunch)

If you enter the Storytelling Centre through the antiquated door of John Knox’s old house, the bright, modern extension is a surprising treat of space and light with a pleasant hum of activity. From weekly Tiny Tales for little ones to workshops and folk singing, the venue is a lively expression of creativity and tradition. The café, in keeping with the centre’s general ethos, is genuinely inviting and hosts regulars and visitors, from leisurely coffee drinkers to lunching professionals. Parents can relax, with enough room for children to toddle in the exhibition space and a storytelling wall with pull-out surprises. The menu is a well-executed selection of rolls and platters, like smoked mackerel pâté with homemade soda bread, plus thoughtful twists like a Bollywood gingered chicken salad. The fresh soups and scones are worth a return visit and a selection of home-baking makes a tempting display. With a few tables well placed for watching down the Royal Mile, this is definitely one to remember for a cuppa and cake. + Great coffee, cake and service in a bright, relaxing space with diverse appeal - Wooden seating looks good but doesn’t allow the possibility of lounging with coffee

Terrace Café Royal Botanic Garden, Inverleith Row, Inverleith (Map 1B: A1, off) 0131 552 0606, rbge.co.uk | £9 (lunch)

There is an element of the school canteen about the Terrace Café, although here the staff are professional and friendly and the views are unrivalled. Child-friendly dishes like breaded chicken and fish and chips from the hot plate, along with the decent-sized play area, mean that lunchtimes are chaotic with pre-schoolers. As the more casual counterpart to the Garden’s Gateway Restaurant, this is definitely the venue of choice for parents looking for a no-stress meal. Sandwiches and baked potatoes offer a simple selection of the usual suspects like egg mayonnaise and tuna salad. Cakes are also the regular line-up of muffins and traybakes, though it is notable that thought has been put in to providing gluten- and dairy-free options. In the aftermath of the busy lunch period, a calmer atmosphere offers the opportunity for relaxing at a window seat with coffee to admire the view. On a sunny day there can be few better options in the city for a cup of tea than the café’s numerous patio tables overlooking the gardens and Edinburgh’s skyline and castle. + Stunning view from the patio when the weather allows - A bit tatty around the edges these days

“With the image of Bacchus adorning its labels, Jadot is one of the most recognisable French brands.” decanter

To ﬁnd out more about Louis Jadot in Scotland contact 01344 871800 or info@hatch.co.uk www.louisjadot.co.uk

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 21

ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS

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EDINBURGH

Th’eatery Edinburgh Festival Theatre, 13/29 Nicolson Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D4, 71) cateredinburgh.com | Closed Sun | £10 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Its setting within the Festival Theatre is a mixed blessing for this new café venture – there’s a guaranteed footfall, but how to make sense of dead times between shows, and win over opera-lovers, the panto crowd and everyone in between? The answer lies in a super-flexible menu and a team on a mission to please everyone who steps through the door. Making every dish to order, readily discussing different menu options and alternatives, and eschewing a children’s menu for simply asking what your child likes, they transform this glassy atrium space into something more akin to a neighbourhood bistro. Dishes provide interesting twists on classic flavours, so the lamb burger has delicate kofta seasoning, a sample soup is purple carrot and fennel, and a stuffed roasted pepper comes with Shetland black potato salad. Sourcing organic Scottish meat, free-range chicken and organic coffee freshly ground for every cup, the focus is on quality throughout. Typical desserts range from chilled berry soufflé to salted caramel and chocolate fondant. With this much heart, Th’eatery should have no problem building its own loyal following. + Smart, seasonal food and service that’s a cut above - Hasn’t quite shaken off the theatre bar feel

Tower Restaurant National Museum of Scotland, Chambers Street, Old Town See Scottish

Traverse Bar Café 10 Cambridge Street, West End (Map 4: C1, 26) 0131 228 5383, traverse.co.uk | £10 (lunch)

The Traverse Theatre has made a name for itself as Scotland’s hub for new writing over the last 50 years. Meanwhile its basement café-bar has become a beloved spot for creative souls and others looking for hearty food and a corner to hang out in. The menu is a selection of typical bar meals including fish and chips, baked potatoes and ciabatta sandwiches, with the likes of a halloumi salad thrown in for good measure. Portions are generous, unpretentious and tasty. A flatbread dripping with creamy wild mushroom sauce is filling and good value. Puddings are more limited, though there is a selection of ice-cream and some cakes at the takeaway coffee counter on the entrance level. Strings of red and green lights across the ceiling and theatre posters on the walls give a warm, laid-back vibe to this underground hideout with a friendly artistic edge. The bar is popular with parents during the day as there is plenty of space for kids to spread out, while booths at the back also offer a few quieter tables. + Good value for money and friendly service - Noisy air-conditioning

BARS & PUBS Edinburgh’s pub scene is thriving, particularly if you look beyond the heart of the city centre and towards neighbourhoods like Leith, the Southside, Stockbridge and Abbeyhill. Even as bars that make an effort to present themselves are on the rise, so are establishments which take great care over the quality of their food and drink, from firstrate dining bars to classy new cocktail joints and beer-focused pubs. Furthermore, a good beer and burger combo has never been easier to find. Reviewers: Barbara Adams, Tara Hepburn, Ian Hogg, Chiara Pannozzo, David Pollock, Yana Thandrayen

The Abbotsford 3 Rose Street, New Town (Map 1B: A6, 50) 0131 225 5276, theabbotsford.com | No Kids (under 5) | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The Abbotsford bar and Above Abbotsford restaurant are like brothers with diverse character traits – same parents but idiosyncratic behaviour. The boozer at street level, dominated by an island bar, is brightly lit, simply decorated and a popular music-free watering hole for all age groups and profiles, including after-work drinkers, shoppers, tourists and regulars. A range of guest beers and almost 100 whiskies ensure the clientele are well watered. In one respect at least, it shares common ground with its more cultured sibling upstairs, as both offer the same good value menu. In the restaurant, reached by a separate side entrance or the internal staircase, linen, soft music and low lighting perhaps hint at something grander than the competent starters such as portobello mushroom with mushroom duxelle and Parma ham, which is nonetheless well presented and full of

flavour. The suggestion that the chef is capable of more than standard fare is underlined by restaurant mains that sit alongside the pub staples, an example being stuffed pork loin served with mash and Stornoway black pudding. + Great beers and competent cooking - Kitchen could be more ambitious

Amber Restaurant The Scotch Whisky Experience, 354 Castlehill, The Royal Mile, Old Town See Scottish

Amicus Apple 17 Frederick Street, New Town See Bistros & Brasseries

The Auld Hoose 23–25 St Leonards Street, Southside (Map 3C: E1, 8) 0131 668 2934, theauldhoose.co.uk | No Kids | £11.50 (lunch) / £11.50 (dinner)

Recently celebrating 10 years at the helm, amiable owner Liz Dand can now reflect back on a job well done. Her Southside bar the Auld Hoose has worked hard to amass a loyal fan base of students and generally younger bods enjoying a killer jukebox of goth, metal and punk tunes accompanied by a few carefully selected craft beers. The large central bar finds a home for the rarely seen draught Hobgoblin as well as a rapidly rotating guest pump of well-sourced ales and a more than reasonable range of singlemalt whiskies. The tiny kitchen turns out towering bowls of nachos, ideal for sharing and great value even without the 10% student discount. Otherwise its pub grub favourites, with burgers, burritos and chilli all available in vegetarian and vegan-friendly options and weekend cooked breakfasts reviving late-rising regulars. A popular hangout for a variety of clubs and societies including the colourful Auld Reekie roller derby girls, there’s a welcoming vibe for all in this easy-going, understated bar. + Nachos to share are a steal at the price - Pity there aren’t more craft ale pumps

The Balmoral Bar Balmoral Hotel, 1 Princes Street, New

Town (Map 2A: D1, 2) 0131 524 7100, thebalmoralhotel.com | £23 (lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Pull up a pew and make yourself at home in the inviting Balmoral Bar. This elegant nook is a haven out of the heaving Princes Street crowds and echoes comfort and plenty from the threshold onwards. With a bursting back bar, this is a pleasant spot for an early-evening aperitif or a small-hour nightcap, but one real gem is the seasonal cocktail tasting menu. The initial amuse bouche is a smooth and fruit-based concoction, designed to excite the taste buds. The Gin and Juice Remixed, featuring Tanqueray gin and grapefruit bitters, is a zesty and refreshing first course. An uplifting prosecco flute blended with Hennessy Fine de Cognac gets you ready for a second offering, such as an Orange and Apple Martini with a juicy cherry to be consumed prior to drinking and an apple garnish to refresh the mouth afterwards. Finish with a sweet drink, such as Our Milk and Honey, blending a bedtime mixture with whisky and Benedictine. This menu is exceptionally well conceived and served ceremoniously, allowing time to enjoy each course. + Beautifully presented cocktails and an educational menu - You may pass out in one of the oh-socomfortable armchairs after your second course

Bangkok Bar 36 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 22) 0131 478 7720, portofsiam.com | No Kids | £9.95 (set lunch) / £9 (dinner)

The old Blue Moon Café may be a sadly missed Broughton Street institution, but Newhaven-based Asian fusion restaurant Port of Siam’s opening of a new branch in its place has brought a new and intriguing personality to the spot. Annexing the restaurant and facing onto the main road, Bangkok Bar is a small but lively speakeasy which takes on a lot of responsibility and does not shirk it. It’s snug, with high stool seating along the bar and in the window, and a couple of small two-person tables pressed against the stylishly mural-filled wall, although

Zucca 15–17 Grindlay Street, West End See Italian

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps and links, go to

food.list.co.uk Beer and Skittles: stylish and elegant surroundings for a well-researched menu of beers from around the world 22 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

BARS & PUBS

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EDINBURGH

the latter feel quite snug once you’re in them. The music is clubby and loud but not oppressive on the weekend, which together with the presence of a good cocktail list lends the menu the desired late-night Asian street food effect. The selection is modest but well priced and made to a high quality in the Port of Siam kitchen, including satay with a homemade spicy peanut sauce, pork skewers and the madtarbark, intriguingly described on the menu as ‘not unlike a Thai/Muslim style bridie’. Their take on fish and chips – seabass tempura – comes highly recommended. + A smart and versatile new bar in a fashionable area - Not a lot of dining space

Bar Kohl 54 George IV Bridge, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 40) 0131 225 6936, barkohl.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Whisper it quietly to their competitors – Bar Kohl may well lay claim to the best burgers in town. Well-sourced and well-seasoned beef patties underpin an appealing all-day menu with a supporting cast of chicken, lamb and falafel options, sweet potato fries and a tangy coleslaw side. All can be matched to an evolving range of international craft beers in handy sized cans with a few like-minded brews on draught and a range of sharing tipples and house pours. The narrow daytime bar has a comfortable strippedback urban vibe with its exposed stone and brickwork wrapping around central bars into warmer timber tones and candlelit evening tables. As the kitchen fades and lights get dimmed, chilled out hip hop and reggae tunes get dialled up a notch for an agreeable crowd enjoying glasses of raspberry gin and elderflower liqueur Edinburgh Collins from an increasingly impressive cocktail list. + Add the house-made pulled pork to any burger – superb - Back room can feel a little sparse

Bar Soba 104 Hanover Street, City Centre See Far East

Bar 50 50 Blackfriars Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A3, 10) 0131 524 1989, smartcityhostels. com | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Tucked in beneath its Cowgate hostel, Bar 50 knows exactly how to keep its student and backpacker crowd content. Cheap as chips weekday drink deals and good-value food keep the large comfy room nice and lively, with a couple of pool tables, sport-friendly TVs and the occasional BBQ bringing the outdoor courtyard tables to life. The recently relaunched menu delivers keenly priced familiar favourites with potato skins, chilli cheese fries and nachos ushering in pizzas, popular burgers and Innis and Gunn beer-battered haddock and chips. St Mungos livens up an otherwise standard range of draughts with a few Scottish craft beers by the bottle, a handful of cocktails by the pitcher and the occasional shot or bomb. Open-mic music on a Monday and a well-attended Thursday night quiz keep it interesting in a venue that continues to offer its younger fans plenty of value. + If Carlsberg made student unions . . - Can get busy when food deals are on

Bar Missoni 1 George IV Bridge, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 21) 0131 220 6666, hotelmissoni.com | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

June 2014 will see the renaming of this Rezidor-owned property following the withdrawal of Missoni from the partnership. The likely consequences for the bar will be a new name and

decorative, but don’t be surprised if its reputation for blending Italian chic with signature cocktails continues to hold sway. Accessed past handsome doormen, the hotel lobby bar is a great spot to top and tail an evening spent upstairs in Cucina or at nearby Ondine. There’s a lively weekend evening vibe with knowledgable staff mixing classic cocktails and iconic martinis, popular prosecco on draught and a small but confidently formed wine list that draws from the restaurant’s impressive cellar. A handful of sandwich and salad mains, nibbles and sides are boosted by platters of warm sultana bread, honey and Italian cheeses, with a killer prosciutto arriving alongside garlic ciabatta and balsamicinfused posh pickled onions. Catwalk colours and styling influence seasonal cocktails and appealing afternoon teas, as design flair meets creative mixology in one of Edinburgh’s more fashionable places to hang out. + Stylish choice for pre-dinner cocktails or post-dinner vino - More drop-in than destination bar

The Basement Bar and Restaurant 10–12a Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 29) 0131 557 0097, thebasement.org.uk | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Long-acknowledged by regulars in the Broughton Street area and from further afield as being an atmospheric wee hideaway for a late-night drink and a reasonable choice for a Mexicanflavoured bite to eat, the Basement’s recent purchase and refurbishment by the Signature Pubs group (whose portfolio also includes the Huxley and 99 Hanover Street) has been a breath of fresh air, even banishing the bar staff’s tacky Hawaiian shirts to the dustbin of history. A fresh, modern redesign includes quirky features like a wall of suspended plant pots and sliding wall-mounted shutters that reveal pieces of art by local artists, which complements a similarly fashionable but adventurous Tex-Mex menu. Among the highlights are a fresh, fruity ceviche of sea bream, chilli and pink grapefruit and a pot of cochinita pilbil (a thick stew of pork belly and pulled pork, topped with cooked slices of chorizo and morcilla), while the familiar fajitas, enchiladas and tequila cocktails are also available. + A welcome and convincing reboot of a bar with a strong reputation - The location sadly means it’s off limits to anyone with mobility issues

Beer & Skittles Basement, 14 Picardy Place, Leith (Map 1B: C5, 34) 0131 556 1289, beerandskittlesbar.co.uk | £8 (set dinner)

One observation amid this year’s crop of Edinburgh bars is just how much the craft and specialist beer market has filtered down into commercial pubs, often delivering extensive lines with sledgehammer subtlety in terms of selection. Sited in the basement of Picardy Place’s Steak restaurant, the recently opened Beer & Skittles is an example of how to get it very right, combining a stylish and perhaps even somewhat exclusive ambience with a stunning and well-researched beer menu. More than sixty bottled beers are listed by country, featuring contributions from as far afield as Lithuania, Kenya and Vietnam, while nine draught lines include the bar’s own craft beer. Also present are beer cocktails and specially selected ‘boiler maker’ beer and spirit matches, from a Jim Beam bourbon chased with a bottle of Brooklyn lager to a Stoli vodka followed by a bottle of Russian Baltika No.7. Limited tapas-style snacks include

smoky chicken skewers, haggis fritters and roast scallop with black pudding. Pool, darts and sport on television have never been presented in such elegant surroundings. + Great beer in a sizeable beer garden - No skittles

4 HITLIST

The Blackbird 37–39 Leven Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: B2, 18) 0131 228 2280, theblackbirdedinburgh.co.uk | £17 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

From the same stable as worthwhile neighbourhood diners Treacle and Hamilton’s, the young Blackbird has firmly banished memories of the former Auld Toll on the same site, particularly as its predecessor’s feature beer garden is still there. If anything, in fact, it’s gone the other way from its old-man pub predecessor, with a resolutely youthful outlook which seems aimed mainly at the many students in the area between Tollcross and Marchmont. With a chequered floor, stripped-back stone walls and fashionably retro mismatched furniture and fittings, its air of stylish but relaxed detachment and fresh-faced waiting staff might be intimidating to some, although it’s a place which relies on quality as much as appearance. The lunch and dinner menus cross over to a large degree, although the former features a selection of sandwiches and fewer main options, including a starter of large beer-battered (Innis & Gunn, no less) tiger prawns with a beer and honey dip, a massive homemade burger with good quality beef and a daily puff pastry pie offering creditable choice alongside mussels, pork belly and sharing platters at dinnertime. If you can’t manage afters, why not sample a dessert cocktail from the inventive list. + Good beer garden - Youthful ambience might intimidate some

Blackfriars 57–61 Blackfriars Street, Old Town See Bistros & Brasseries

The Blue Blazer 2 Spittal Street, West End (Map 4: D2, 31) 0131 229 5030 | No Kids | £2 (pie or toastie)

A perennial favourite, the Blue Blazer is one of those old-fashioned, increasingly rare and typically Edinburgh pubs which welcomes all manner of custom in a convivial and trouble-free environment, from students at the nearby College of Art to Lothian Road concert- and theatregoers to regular locals and workers. It’s bright, bustling and classic in its design, with lots of wooden furniture and old whisky boxes lining the walls, but real care and attention is taken with the drinks. The Blazer’s strong selection includes seven cask ales, all of which are guests, and in the region of 80 rums, 30 gins and 120 whiskies. Beyond drinking and socialising there isn’t much else on the agenda, but you can have a basic hot pie or toastie for a couple of quid and a few hours of acoustic folk music every Sunday night at the Listening Room, the latter on the house. + Great drink, great atmosphere - Not great toilets

BARS & PUBS 4 Bond No. 9 It’s rare that a firstrate cocktail bar also measures up as a place to dine, but this spacious Leith bar hits both bases.

4 The Bon Vivant Fine wine, fun cocktails and an artfully crafted menu in the heart of the city.

4 BrewDog Their image may divide customers, but the Stonehaven brewers’ Edinburgh operation is commendably beer-focused.

4 The King’s Wark Food is their business, and this old-fashioned Shore pub excels at local Scottish produce from field and sea.

4 Lucky Liquor Co. A first-rate new addition to the city’s cocktail bar scene, from the owners of the similarly excellent Bramble and Last Word Saloon.

4 The Roseleaf Excellent food, inventive drinks and an effortlessly relaxed atmosphere at one of Edinburgh’s very best bars.

4 Safari Lounge Local comfort meets destination food courtesy of chef Joseph Malik in a convivial suburban bar with an imaginative and impeccably designed menu.

4 Scran & Scallie Tom Kitchin’s ‘public house with dining’ offers stunning food, pub informality and destination child-friendliness.

4 The Vintage Fine dining and first-class beer without excessive formality at this unique, award-hungry addition to the scene.

be missed. There are a few cocktails on offer – mostly classics – and a reasonable selection for wine drinkers. There’s no meal offerings per se, but there are small sharing options, such as nachos, a cheese board and the usual bar nibbles. The most striking thing about this pub is the sense of community. Clearly populated by local drinkers, it’s the sort of place where you’d get to know the barman on a firstname basis. + The sense of community - Not much food on offer

4 The Bon Vivant Boda Bar 229 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A2, 3) 0131 553 5900, bodabar.com

Having set up residence long before we all became obsessed with everything Scandinavian, Boda is a lively member of the Leith Walk bar scene. Small and cosy, this watering hole prides itself on its selection of beers and gins, which will have you spoiled for choice, but the Edinburgh Elderflower Gin is not to

• 55 Thistle Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 80) 0131 225 3275, bonvivantedinburgh.co.uk | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner) • 4–6 Dean Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, 7) 0131 315 3311, bonvivantedinburgh.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £10 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Few places in Edinburgh’s New Town exude as much dusky elegance as The Bon Vivant. Enter into this candlelit The List Eating & Drinking Guide 23

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den and enjoy an abundance of wine and good food. With more than 44 wines in stock and all available by the glass, this is an ideal place to sample a few varieties and receive an education from well-versed staff. The food menu changes daily, as chefs aim to make dishes creative and keep ingredients seasonal. The smaller tapas-style dishes make a tasty accompaniment to your beverage, with offerings such as padron peppers and pan-fried halloumi. If these whet your appetite, move onto the mains which are select, but well-chosen. The locally caught sea bream served on a roast fennel salad with pomegranate seeds is lovely with a glass of Picpoul de Pinet. For a sweet end to your meal, the in house ice-creams are definitely ones to savour, steering away from bland vanilla and going for flavours such as blueberry and pear. Alternatively, the extensive cocktail menu is also a great after-dinner choice, with daily specials listed on the board. + Great atmosphere for dinner dates - Limited vegetarian options

4 Bond No. 9 84 Commercial Street, Leith (Map 5A: B1, 5) 0131 555 5578, bondno9.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Three distinct contemporary spaces make up Bond No. 9: the busy bar area filled with a well-dressed crowd; the conservatory where sport is shown, and the restaurant alcove tucked away from the main bustle and noise. It has a welldeserved reputation as one of the best places for cocktails in Edinburgh, with skilled bar staff mixing up everything from classic negronis to innovative concoctions of their own. The food is taken just as seriously and rivals the quality of many restaurants by dishing up a sophisticated twist on bar food. Salmon en croute becomes a light marriage of filo pastry with lemon and dill cream cheese, and the pub staple steak pie is transformed into a rich beef Bourguignon topped with buttery shortcrust pastry. The lights are low and mood urbane by night, while by day families lunch and the hungry attempt the weekend’s mammoth brunches. + Stylish cocktail bar with food to match - Uninspiring view of Commercial Street from the restaurant

Boteco do Brasil 47 Lothian Street, Old Town See Round the World

The Bothy Restaurant & Drinkery 18 Corstorphine Road, West End (Map 4: A4, off) 0131 337 1844, themurrayfieldhotel.com | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The recent revamp of the Murrayfield Hotel’s bar and restaurant has proved a welcome addition to the neighbourhood. Although obviously popular on rugby match days and concert nights, thanks to its position opposite Murrayfield Stadium, the Bothy is making a real effort to appeal to local residents in an area otherwise bereft of drinking options and is as family friendly as any café. With daily activities including storytelling and crafts, it’s something of a haven for local parents looking to entertain kids on a rainy day. The southfacing beer garden has also been given a major makeover, with ample seating to take advantage of the merest hint of that yellow ball in the sky. Inside, food is classic pub fare done well, with wellsourced meat and a fair number of veggie options. There’s craft beer on draught, including their own Bothy Ale, plus a decent list of wines by the glass and some classy cocktails. The modern décor 24 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Clerk’s Bar (page 28): this newcomer is off to a flying start, with Scottish craft beer and pimped-up bar food

features monochrome floor tiles with oversized lampshades and exposed brick walls, with booths for cosy catch-ups, and there’s live music on Friday and Saturday nights, as well as an array of evening events chalked up on the ‘Our Community’ blackboard. + Something for everyone in this community-driven bar - Avoid on match days if you don’t like crowds

The Bow Bar 80 West Bow, Victoria Street, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 26) 0131 226 7667 | No Kids

Victoria Street stalwart the Bow Bar remains unashamedly old school when it comes to beer and whisky. Eight cask pumps offer a rotating range of largely Scottish ales and equally well sourced interlopers from across the border, with familiar craft draughts from Williams Bros and Black Isle Brewery. All are supplemented by dozens of carefully selected bottles from home and abroad with the special occasion champagne and beer mash-up Deus Brut des Flanders topping a healthy list from Belgium and beyond. It’s certainly whisky galore with a strong cast of 200+ single malts to peruse and enough knowledge behind the bar to steer the inquisitive in the right direction. Dark timber panelling, throwback enamel signs and ornate booze-related mirrors keep it nice and traditional with a handful of narrow tables and leather clad benches. For the peckish, Findlays of Portobello supply tasty no-frills lunchtime pies and bridies for a fairly discerning crowd that know their nips and ales. + Good spot for devotees of good ale and whisky - Maybe not for cocktail-drinking vegetarians

Bramble 16a Queen Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 88) 0131 226 6343, bramblebar. co.uk | No Kids

Tumble down some crooked steps and into the spellbinding rabbit hole that

is Bramble. Despite being somewhat hidden on a corner of Queen Street, Bramble has achieved a stellar reputation in Edinburgh and beyond as one of the finest cocktail establishments in the city. Even on busy Saturday evenings, standards remain high. Stylishly dressed staff offer enthusiastic welcomes and multi-task table service with their mixology skills. Weakchinned Cosmopolitans are nowhere to be seen on this cocktail menu – instead there are hard-hitting liquor blends such as The Labyrinth, mixing vermouth with smoky rye ale syrup and orange bitters. Alternatively reach for a refreshing kick with an Angela’s Antidote, which combines tart grapefruit cordial with easy-drinking gin and Campari. The only downside to this sophisticated speakeasy seems to be its popularity: the nooks and crannies fill up fast, which, combined with the slightly too-loud music, makes for difficulty conversing over cocktails. + Killer cocktails - Music a notch too loud – be prepared to shout

The Brass Monkey Leith 362 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A3, 12) 0131 554 5286 | No Kids | £3.50 (set lunch) / £8.50 (dinner)

In many ways, the Leith branch of Brass Monkey has all the ingredients required to be a new-and-improved version of the popular Drummond Street movie bar. Much of the décor is the same: dark wood tables and chairs are interspersed with mismatched comfortable furniture. High-colour classic movie posters almost wallpaper the room. Like the Southside incarnation, classic films are screened every day (3pm) but the cinema space in Leith seems bigger and better with proper couches in place of the slouchy movie room across the city. The kitchen’s bigger too, allowing for a more thorough menu to be offered up. There’s a nod to the American movie in the offerings (pizzas, hot dogs, nachos) which arrive in US diner-style red baskets lined with greaseproof paper. Something of the cosy atmosphere on offer at Drummond Street seems a little lost, however, in the bigger surroundings. + Good cinema set-up - Quite drafty at the front of the bar

The Brass Monkey 14 Drummond Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A4, 13) 0131 556 1961 | No Kids | £4.50 (set lunch) / £4.50 (set dinner)

The undoubted silverback of Edinburgh’s simian trio, the Drummond Street version is still very much the king of the swingers, drawing a lively and youthful crowd. It is a firm favourite with students who are fond of an abovepar pint and a soup-and-sandwich deal that is only marginally more expensive than one of the excellent ales. Split into numerous nooks, crannies and alcoves, there is a wide variety of places to lurk and linger – from conspiratorial cubbyholes to a fairly decadent cinema room where you can kick back on a mattress and sip your way through movies of an afternoon under the familiar gazes of Hepburn, Dean and McQueen. + The jungle VIP - Quiz tannoys can grate a little if you’re looking for a quiet pint

4 BrewDog Edinburgh 143–145 Cowgate, Old Town (Map 2A: D3, 79) 0131 220 6517, brewdog.com/bars/ edinburgh | £8 (one-course lunch) / £8 (one-course dinner)

Any bar that proclaims ‘no live sport, no football, no shots and no Stella’ isn’t likely to be a shrinking violet. Urban and edgy in equal measure, BrewDog barks out bags of attitude to an already colourful Cowgate. The narrow bar has half a dozen sought-after booths and a stripped-back industrial feel with concrete floor and bar-top, bare bricks and exposed ceiling ductwork. Backed by their Aberdeenshire brewery, the beer is supremely good, from the entry-level hops of Dead Pony Club and Punk IPA right through to the treacly Tokyo at a whopping 18% abv. What food there is packs an equally big punch. Spicy Monster with its chorizo and nacho toppings heads a limited list of popular pizzas. In addition there’s a

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jalapeño kick from cheesy Cajun wedges and an Iain Mellis cheese board complete with artisan breads from Morningside’s Bakery Andante. Four beer flight glasses help the inquisitive and the knowledgable beer geeks navigate a rotating range of in-house ales and limited-release seasonal brews, and there are emerging plans to include increasingly popular beer cocktails. + Feisty, quirky and one of the best beer bars in town - Toilets look like they have taken a bit of stick

choice to share, dressed in a garlic and white wine sauce. This comes with fresh bread to soak up the delicious, salty juices and goes very well with some chunky chips and a glass of chilled Sauvignon Blanc. For something more substantial, try the fish stew or classic beer-battered fish and chips. + Delicious, locally sourced seafood and great atmosphere - Be sure to book a table as it gets incredibly busy, so it’s not great for spontaneous dining

Café Royal Oyster Bar Café Royal Circle Bar 19 West Register Street, New Town (Map 1B: B6, 45) 0131 556 1884, caferoyaledinburgh.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Established in 1863, the Café Royal Circle Bar has decades of history woven into its stylish interior. The inviting leather-cushioned booths and the swarms of punters make it a good spot for people watching over a glass of wine. The room is dominated by an enormous oval bar where you can admire the wall murals of great inventors, nodding to the type of clientele who perhaps frequented this iconic watering hole in years gone by. With their decadent Oyster Bar just next door, the menu of the Circle Bar naturally places a huge focus on fish. Fresh trawl is served daily in a variety of succulent dishes. The Shetland mussels are a tasty

TIP/,67 FOR COCKTAILS • The Bon Vivant A sophisticated drinking den with an excellent cocktail list 23 • Bramble A cocktail speakeasy for the cognoscenti 24

19a West Register Street, New Town See Fish

Café Voltaire 36–38 Blair Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D3, 80) 0131 247 4704, thecabaretvoltaire. com | No Kids | £8 (one-course dinner)

Urban, industrial, retro and kitsch – Café Voltaire is one of the city’s most convivial late-night music bars. Kicking on until 3am every night, friendly staff influence carefully selected playlists with DJs most evenings pumping out accessible house, disco and hip-hop tunes. Familiar draughts, the odd craft brew and a bunch of imported bottles keep a hospitable crowd content, with comfy booths and arcade-style game tables in the vaulted stone cellar to the rear and an illuminated chopper bike clinging to the wall. On a single-item menu, handstretched pizzas are delivered in, with creative combinations like prosciutto and Stornoway black pudding proving great value with 2 for 1 deals. A well-stocked liquor cabinet supports a fairly tight cocktail list stretching from the full-on Cowgate stumbler with its three rum and brandy mix to a sumptuous Velvet Elvis to share arriving in beautifully ornate punch kettles and served in old-school tea cups. + Hospitable late-night bar with great tunes - Eating good pizzas out of takeaway boxes

The Caley Sample Room 42–58 Angle Park Terrace, West End (Map 4: B4, off) 0131 337 7204, thecaleysampleroom.co.uk | £11 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

The clue’s in the name, and there certainly is a lot to sample in this open, gently lit room that feels at ease with itself. Eight real ales, 50 per cent Scottish, are on tap at all times. Local and international kegs of lager complement 40 choices of bottled libations covering pale ales, IPAs, ambers, stouts, porters, Belgian friends and ciders. The cleverly grown wine list features 30 by the glass, so honestly, leave the car at home. But there is more here than drinking to entice. This family friendly, neighbourhood feel hub has become a very good bistro indeed. Commitment to local sourcing is pronounced, local gardeners supplying into the kitchen on a daily basis. A core menu changes seasonally, so while chargrilled burgers and Crombie’s sausages stick around, plucky broad bean, pea and asparagus risotto arrives with the spring. A creative list of daily specials almost doubles menu offerings but the deep sticky bliss of ovenroasted Gressingham duck breast and fork fall-away lamb shank may disappear quickly off the board as ordering progresses. Add super-friendly staff and it’s worth becoming a local. + The beer, the food, the wine list . . . - The bar staff’s baaad influence

The Cambridge Bar 20 Young Street, New Town (Map 1A: B4, 44) 0131 226 2120, thecambridgebar. co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The Cambridge Bar is all about the burgers, and once it had a reputation for the best burgers in town, but is it still true? The menu offers beef, buffalo, chicken breast and veggie bean. Sides cost extra, and include their excellent thick, crispy onion rings and spicy, crunchy Cajun fries. All this is washed down by reliably decent beers while you’re sunk into a comfy leather sofa, watching sport on a huge screen. Burgers come in over 20

combos, such as fajita, teriyaki, breakfast, Hawaiian, and the more outlandish Philly cheese steak, five alarm (Monterey jack cheese, jalapeños, chipotle mayo, and a mighty spicy salsa), and Aussie (bacon, pineapple, mature cheddar, beetroot and a fried egg). Beyond bean burgers, vegetarians can find buns filled with chargrilled halloumi or portabella mushroom. The Cambridge’s own Belgian chocolate brownie wins as much admiration as their burgers: here chefs concentrate on a few dishes, and nail them. So are they the best in town? Well, there’s more competition now, but they’re still pretty good, and popular. + The onion rings are exceptional - Rammed on rugby match days

Candy Kitchen & Bar 113–115 George Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 50) 0131 225 9179, candybaredinburgh.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £8.50 (lunch) / £8.50 (dinner)

Competition for customers is stiff on trendy George Street, so Candy Bar and Kitchen attracts its youthful clientele with a cut-price food menu designed to whet the appetite for the 100 or so cocktails on offer at more traditional prices. Its mantra is food for under a fiver, and surprisingly it offers more than wee morsels for this price. The menu includes a cheese fondue made of Emmentel and Gruyère, which isn’t a bad introduction to the dish, if a bit on the mild side for real turophiles. The sizzling chicken fajitas, a Candy Kitchen favourite, are very good, just spicy enough to provide a bite and served with generous portions of guacamole and salsa. The burgers, many of which sneak above the £5 mark, are more disappointing and come with anaemic skinny fries. Many diners may want to skip the uninspiring dessert menu and head straight to the cocktails, but for those with a sweet tooth there’s a chocolate fondue to try and there’s little to complain about in a gooey carrot cake or the rich chocolate tart. + Food for under a fiver - Don’t expect speedy service

• Dragonﬂy Cool and kitsch join forces in the heart of the Old Town 30 • 52 Canoes Rum is the focus at this fun ‘PolyMexiCana’ joint

• Last Word Saloon The lighting might be dim but the cocktails are bright 35 • Lucky Liquor Co. The garnish is as important as the contents at this New Town speakeasy 35 • Panda & Sons Go with the mixologists’ choice at this cocktail joint masquerading as a barber shop 37 • The Roseleaf Cocktails served in teapots for a touch of quirky kitsch 39 • The Royal Dick Bar & Bistro Drink in the specimans as well as the cocktails at the old vet school 48 Juniper (page 35): this newcomer showcases a playful gin-focused cocktail list and eclectic street-food menu 26 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

THE STAND COMEDY CLUB 5 York Place | Edinburgh | 0131 558 7272 StandEdinburgh

@StandComedyClub

Get your fill of the tastiest live comedy

OPEN 7 NIGHTS A WEEK

www.thestand.co.uk The List Eating & Drinking Guide 27

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The Canons’ Gait 232 Canongate, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 26) 0131 556 4481, canonsgait.com | No Kids (under 5) | £6.25 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Situated in the historic Canongate and ideally placed for its fair share of passing visitors, the Canons’ Gait is an understated, no-frills watering hole from the same stable as the city centre Abbotsford and Guildford Arms. There’s a good pint on offer with familiar Williams Bros draughts and their excellent Black Ball stout, as well as a handful of guest ale pumps and a decent selection of single malt whisky. A soup and sandwich lunch deal supports an all-day menu of steak and ale pie, beer-battered haddock and blue cheese burgers, with pub grub meaty staples very much to the fore. Rumblings of a potential refurbishment may prove timely as the current décor, furniture and lighting levels don’t always encourage a comfortable linger in a room that can occasionally feel a little stark. The large basement cellar bar is available for function hire and offers a well supported venue for free Fringe comedy. + Possible pit-stop potential - In need of a makeover

CC Blooms 23–24 Greenside Place, East End (Map 1B: D5, 36) 0131 556 9331, ccbloomsedinburgh.com | £8 (set lunch) / £10.50 (dinner)

Previously known solely as Edinburgh’s most lively after-hours gay bar and club, CC Bloom’s has of late done a good job of fixing itself up – both in terms of its interior and its hedonistic goodtime reputation – as a pleasant bar and diner for all ages and all times of the day. It makes sense, given the venue’s proximity to the Playhouse and the fact the area isn’t overflowing with informal and reasonably priced diners of a certain quality, and their lunch and pre-theatre deal is good value. The ground floor is welcoming and airy, with strippedback brick walls, bright floor-to-ceiling windows to the rear and atmospheric lighting as the sun goes down, while the lengthy menu doesn’t suffer for its range, including pies, curries, pastas and tapas dishes alongside haggis, neeps and tatties or braised lamb shank. A decent cocktail and drinks list means evenings still go with a bang, and old-school fans needn’t worry as Friday and Saturday is still club night both upstairs and down. + The range of homemade cakes - Weekend evenings can get very busy

The City Café 19 Blair Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D3, 81) 0131 220 0125, thecitycafe.co.uk | £6.50 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Checkerboard floors, neon signs, Art Deco lights and booth seating – the City Café ticks most of these obligatory American-style diner boxes. An all-day menu covers familiar comfort food staples with mac and cheese, southern fried chicken and club sandwiches all outshone by bountiful breakfasts and signature burgers. For most, the impressive Apache burger with its tangy hickory smoked BBQ sauce and super chunky home fries should suffice. For others lamenting Adam Richman’s Man vs Food retirement there’s a 3kg burger-eating challenge that is sure to test anyone’s resolve. Self styled as ‘diner by day, drinks by night’, there’s a fairly standard range of draughts on tap, boosted by a stand-out selection of bottled Scottish craft beers with Stateside cocktails and quirky homemade baconflavoured vodka perking up a reviving Bloody Mary. With a chilled-out daytime vibe that caters for all, the joint can liven 28 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

The Potting Shed (page 37): an easy-going newcomer with a focus on craft beer

up with soulful and funky tunes matching an eclectic clientele enjoying pitchers of beer or cocktails before late-night weekend DJs crank it up a notch. + Funky and fun with top-notch burgers - Ribs not so finger-licking good

Clerk’s Bar 74–78 South Clerk Street, Southside (Map 3C: D2, 19) 0131 667 2701, clerksbar.co.uk | £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

Popping up in place of Southside’s Dragon Way, newcomer Clerk’s Bar is off to a flyer. Hitching a ride on the blossoming bandwagon of craft beer and pimped-up bar food, its finger-licking fare with ribs, chicken and pulled pork all smoked low and slow, alongside a handful of gourmet hotdogs, burgers and appealing sides. Rotating craft casks and draughts are boosted by a dozen or so bottles from independent brewers with good deals on house lager, wine and selected spirits. Likely to appeal to a youngish crowd the décor is fresh and contemporary with cool tones, funky lighting and a hint of pop art graphics across a sport-friendly entry level bar and a terracotta toned basement overspill. With emerging plans for tap takeovers and meet the brewer sessions, as well as weekend DJs and a Thursday night quiz, the Southsider’s sister bar could quickly become a real crowd pleaser. + Crafty beer choice and well-priced finger food - Some basement tables are too small for drinks and food baskets

The Cloisters 26 Brougham Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 6) 0131 221 9997 | No Kids | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

There is, apparently, a battle of biblical proportions currently raging between the cohorts of craft beer and the ranks of real ale – such is the specialist knowledge imparted by a visit to this former church, where rival beer philosophies have replaced differing interpretations of the bible as the source of potential schisms. Thankfully, however, there’s no need to

declare your loyalties at the door and it’s a convivial atmosphere that fills this often packed pub, with its vaulted windows and bar staff besieged by a mob thirsty to expand their knowledge of all manner of hop-based concoctions. Those who fancy a pint and a curry could combine both with a measure of spine-tingling chilli-infused Elixir, while those who prefer their food to be solid will appreciate the evening tapas menu – with a choice of eats both naked and battered that provides a welcome foil for the pints. + Monastic dedication to myriad ales - Don’t mention the false prophets that come in 2/3s of a pint

The Compass Bar 44 Queen Charlotte Street, Leith (Map 5A: D2, 28) 0131 554 1979, thecompassleith.co.uk | £5.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

While neighbouring restaurants have come and gone, The Compass has remained a popular haunt for locals looking for a good value meal in this quiet corner near Leith Links. Set in a huge room with high ceilings, scarlet walls and exposed brickwork, tables are well spaced out and despite the size there’s a sense of warmth to the place. While not as ambitious as some of the places on the Shore the food is reliably good pub grub with a seasonal flavour. Daily specials might include haddock stuffed with crab or wild boar sausages, while the old favourites such as steak pie and fish and chips are all popular choices. A good soup and sandwich lunch deal plus a hearty breakfast menu keep the place buzzing throughout the day. There’s also an ever-changing selection of guest ales primarily from Scottish brewers. + Friendly, efficient service - Slightly lonely location

Crafters Barn 9 North Bank Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C2, 17) 0131 225 9030, crafters-barn. co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Fresh-faced and eager, the people behind

Crafters Barn have a passion for Belgian beer and they want to share it with you. Taking over this bright spot atop the Mound in April 2014, and decking it out with a combination of industrial fittings and soft fabrics, Byron Holland and his partner bring an eclectic mix of European influences to the capital. Made-to-share small plates have a beery emphasis, from Belgian fish stew in a creamy beer sauce to Iberico chorizo infused with blonde beer. Napolitana pizzas are handmade daily and veer from the familiar path – think green Thai chicken and beetroot, bacon and blue varieties. With bold aims to source their produce as locally as possible, there are buffalo steaks from Puddledub, kilo pots of Shetland mussels and an admirable range of Scottish cheeses, all of which pair excellently with the myriad Belgian beers. With six varieties on draught, plus a tome of bottled varieties, weekends could be lost while sampling them all – and that’s before we get to the beer cocktails. A concise list showcases some experimental mixology, with some interesting ingredients (homemade strawberry and Leffe jam), notable spirits (Edinburgh gin) and fabulous names making an appearance. Caipbeerinha, anyone? + Something different in the Old Town - All about beer; there’s not much wine

Cross & Corner 1 Canonmills, Inverleith (Map 1B: B2, 8) 0131 558 7080, theshillinggroup.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The taking upmarket of the local Edinburgh boozer finds one of its best expressions in Canonmills’ Cross & Corner, which was redeveloped in 2013 from its previous somewhat tired state into a stylish and welcoming stop in an area which hasn’t been well served in the past. Sited on a busy junction, the lack of a good view is compensated for by the brightness afforded by high windows, while the interior is attractive, a blend of sanded wood floors, nice cornicing, clean tiled tables and kitsch beer mat wallpaper. Kids and dogs are especially welcome, and the food menus

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nicely balance tradition and fashion. Starters include a homemade scotch egg accompanied by a salad dressed with bacon and black pudding, while the main selection features battered haddock and chips, beef and stout pie with chips and a well roasted fillet of coley, although the presentation means its juices are rather unkind to the kale and chorizo mash soaking beneath the fish. The newspaper-style drinks menu is the real star, though, with a strong wine, beer and cider selection topped off by a specialist list of gin and tonics and Bloody Mary variations. + Eclectic Bloody Marys top off a strong drinks list - Decent food, but not destination dining

The Cumberland Bar 1–3 Cumberland Street, New Town (Map 1B: A4, 13) 0131 558 3134, cumberlandbar.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Now owned by DM Stewart, the company that also has the Abbotsford and the Guildford Arms, the Cumberland is one of those stalwart Edinburgh pubs that’s full of character and history but also continually popular with a mixed clientele. Old-school and charming, it’s full of cosy nooks and crannies, and the old wooden bar is well stocked with regularly changing guest ales and around forty malt whiskies. The wide-ranging food menu features pulled pork sandwiches, venison meatballs and veggie pancakes alongside the more traditional burgers and bangers. There’s a full breakfast at the weekend and a Sunday roast, while the beer garden is among the city’s best. + Cracking beer garden - Kids under five are no longer allowed

The Devil’s Advocate 9 Advocates Close, Old Town (Map 2A: C2, 16) 0131 225 4465, devilsadvocateedinburgh.co.uk | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Tucked away on Advocates Close, the team behind Bon Vivant have unearthed another little gem. Exposed steel beams, stone and brick walls combine in a stylishly stripped-back industrial chic interior with candles and low lighting keeping it intimate and atmospheric. The elegant entry level sit-up bar generates a healthy buzz with a few cosy booths nestling beneath a table service mezzanine dining deck. An appealing all-day menu is confidently compact with the odd gourmet touch perking up familiar dishes. A standout smoked haddock and leek tart starter beckons in a delightfully meaty beef and pork belly burger topped with black pudding and beetroot, while beer battered pollack gets a piquant prod from a brown shrimp tartare sauce. An extensive drinks list offers pages of well sourced single malts, an appealing wine list by the glass and half litre and a handful of home-grown craft beers. There’s also a fair degree of mixing and shaking going on with a grown-up list of sipping and slurping cocktails satisfying a trendy mix of visitors and clued-up locals. + Stylish and elegant all-rounder - Night time Advocates Close can look uninviting – but it’s worth the effort

Divino Enoteca 5 Merchant Street, Old Town See Italian

Dragonfly 52 West Port, Old Town (Map 2A: A3, 36) 0131 228 4543, dragonflycocktailbar. com | No Kids

West Port’s Dragonfly continues to make good on its promise to make 30 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Lucky Liquor Co. (page 35): serving up exciting, original cocktails in an understated and surprising location

well priced and equally well composed cocktails available to the masses. From an entry level grapefruit vodka and pomegranate mix to the more creative Burntisland Iced Tea with its coconut rum and amaretto float, there’s plenty of mixing and shaking skill on display. The décor is funky and eclectic if a little worn in places, with a cool laidback vibe that livens up late night with weekend DJs cranking out funk, soul and hip-hop tunes. Asian inspired stencilling and imagery from local artists adorn the walls of the walk-up bar and the mezzanine deck with candlelit high tables and comfy stools alongside well worn leather sofas for the fading. Attracting a predominantly younger crowd and popular for celebration bashes, the pleasing private bar function room is available to hire with nearby Mammas pizzas smuggled in for the peckish. + Unpretentious bar with tasty affordable cocktails - Don’t turn up hungry – there’s no food

Ecco Vino 19 Cockburn Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 5) 0131 225 1441, eccovinoedinburgh.com | £7.50 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

With its understated, well-worn charm undiminished by the appearance of younger, trendier rivals, Ecco Vino remains one of the city’s go-to wine bars. Fading leather seats and dark wood furniture lend comforting warmth to a softly lit narrow room, with the first hint of sunshine seeing windows flung open, breathing life into appealing outdoor tables. Careful sourcing lies at the heart of an extensive wine list and a supporting cast of Mediterranean mains, antipasti and charcuterie plates. Rustic bread mops up oil from the owner’s Sicilian olive grove alongside garlic and chilliinfused olives from Puglia as noteworthy nibbles ably support hearty bowls of pasta and risotto. Helpful prompts chart a route from a light and elegant Sancerre to a complex and full-bodied Barolo with plenty of easy-drinking, good-to-

glug options in between. Challenging pairings see Picpoul de Pinet teamed with a delicately formed pork terrine while carefully composed cheese boards and Edward and Irwyn’s bespoke chocolates receive similarly creative matches. This reliable old friend is still keeping its food and wine in perfect harmony. + Good choice for a cosy candlelit têteà-tête - Worn-out window seat looks more shabby than chic

Element 110–114 Rose Street, City Centre (Map 1A: C5, 63) 0131 225 3297, elementedinburgh.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Element is a Rose Street pub with an ambition to go gastro. A popular spot for drinks in town, the bustling bar to the front has all the usual beers and well-priced house wines. The cocktail menu contains well-constructed classics and the occasional twist like the lipsmackingly sharp pomegranate daiquiri. The restaurant to the back is quieter and allows for couples or groups to indulge in the newly upscale menu. Potato scone and black pudding with a perfectly soft poached egg or scallop and chorizo starters are well constructed. The mains like handmade burgers with a zingy mustard relish or plump lamb rump (served pink) are generous in size and price, and several notches above typical pub grub. Desserts are slightly heavy, although a cranachan cream roulade provides the right hit of whisky warmth. With friendly, welcoming service and décor this Edinburgh fixture is a good spot for a long post-shopping lunch or dinner before hitting the George Street clubs. + Great cooking for pub prices - Heavy-duty desserts

The Espy 62–64 Bath Street, Portobello, Portobello (Map 5A: E1, off) 0131 669 0082, the-espy.com | £14.50 (lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

The Espy is a real neighbourhood favourite, full of coffee-drinking mums by day, families in the early evening and a casual crowd by night. The twinkling fairy lights and old pictures of Portobello create a comfortable place to come for a quiet pint with friends or a reliable place for some quality pub food. There’s a daily specials menu with competitively priced dishes such as a succulent loin of pork or homemade chicken pie, but it’s the tasty Aberdeen Angus burgers that are the speciality. There are nine to choose from, topped with various cheeses, bacon or haggis, and all are freshly prepared and cooked to order. Puddings are mostly substantial wedges of cake or even an old-fashioned jam roly-poly. For the full seaside vibe there’s outdoor seating on Portobello promenade that is very popular even in the depths of winter. + Great seaside location - Limited range of Scottish ales

52 Canoes 13 Melville Place, West End See North American

56 North 2–8 West Crosscauseway, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 1) 0131 662 8860, fiftysixnorth.co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Some drinks on the cocktail menu at 56 North are playfully named around Star Wars puns, a fact which belies the level of expertise at work in this trendy but unpretentious cocktail bar. A strong mix of old favourites and in-house concoctions make up the cocktail list, while staff are knowledgable enough to talk you through off-menu creations that might better suit your tastes. The Newington establishment is a real gin joint, with over 80 to choose from (one of the largest selections in the UK). Popular weekly gin tastings take place on Sundays, with the bar’s ‘Gin Gents’ taking patrons through a selection of eight with accompanying snacks (£45 per couple). The menu features classic pub grub done well, such as beer-battered fish and chips and burgers that can be mixed

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The List Eating & Drinking Guide 31

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TABLE Talk

with meat from Peelham Farm and a local butcher as well as fish from Edinburgh’s renowned Welch’s. When it comes to drinks, three draught ales rotate regularly, with Stewarts Brewery and Inveralmond featuring prominently, and the decent wine list has something for most tastes. Leaving aside the small service issue, The Fountain is more than worthy of repeat visits, whether you’re a local or visiting the cinema across the road. + Huge choice of drinks on offer - Service could be sharper

Ghillie Dhu 2 Rutland Place, West End (Map 4: B1, 20) 0131 222 9930, ghillie-dhu.co.uk | £16.50 (lunch) / £16.50 (dinner)

EILIDH BRUNTON ON GOING GREEN If we go on consuming at this rate we will need three planet Earths to sustain us. But we don’t have those planets, we just have the one. We need to focus on one-planet living. And I think now, in Scotland, things are set to improve thanks to the new waste regulations that require businesses to recycle their waste, including food waste. Soon businesses will start facing fines for noncompliance, which is why I have been so busy this year. It is hoped that by 2025 Scotland will be recycling 75 per cent of all waste, and that will plough £175 million back into the economy. However, in some European countries, such as Germany, they have taken it a step further. They run a domestic Pay As You Throw scheme, which means all general waste is weighed on collection and each household is charged accordingly. It forces consumers to buy differently, choosing less packaging. One of the problems with recycling is that you can’t recycle food with plastic in it, and you can’t recycle plastic with food on it. This makes it hard for cafés and takeaways to recycle food packaging. At Vegware we solve that problem. All our products – cups, cutlery, salad boxes and takeaway containers – are completely compostable within 12 weeks. They are made from plant-based materials and that means that food and packaging can all share the same waste stream, and it all just breaks down and can be put back into the soil after composting. The many cafés and restaurants that we work with are already seeing the benefits – they are saving money on waste disposal and their customers really appreciate what they are doing. Q Eilidh Brunton is recycling consultant at Edinburgh-based eco food packaging firm Vegware. vegware.com

32 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Occupying a unique position at the apex of Princes Street, Lothian Road and Shandwick Place, Ghillie Dhu (it means ‘dark-haired lad’, a mythic Scots guardian spirit) is a bar and events venue which revels in its position as a touristfriendly hangout that’s particularly popular on rugby weekends and during the Edinburgh Festival. The expansive ground-floor bar is open throughout the week, with big bunk-seated booths and slightly too-big tables which give it the feel of a medieval dining room, while the upstairs hall hosts ceilidhs, DJs and live music on Fridays and Saturdays. Despite the obviously commercially focused nature of the place, it has a good stab at being all things to all people, with cheap after-work drinks from Monday to Wednesday and a robust, Scots-focused menu featuring starters of black pudding, haggis or smoked salmon, and pies, grilled steak and homely Marshall’s macaroni and ham bake on the mains slate. + Imagining yourself ordering up a flagon of ale at one of the big wooden tables - The Scottish theme is a wee bit forced

Greenmantle 133 Nicolson Street, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 4) 0131 662 8741, greenmantlepub. co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Panda & Sons (page 37): fun and original cocktails with a speakeasy vibe

and matched with toppings including portobello mushroom and goat’s cheese. Light bites such as stuffed peppers and salads are also available, and are made with fresh, high-quality ingredients. A ‘Dine for a Tenner’ two-course menu runs throughout the week, and offers terrific value for money. + Amazing gin selection - Screens showing football seem a little out of place

Filmhouse Café Bar 88 Lothian Road, West End See Arts Venues

The Flying Dog 24 Henderson Street, Leith, Leith (Map 5A: C3, off) 0131 467 7712 | £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

The gentrification of the Shore area’s grimy old pubs continues in the direction of Great Junction Street with this radical refurbishment of a spit ‘n’ sawdust old boozer now lost to history. In its place, after a four-month refurbishment, stands an elegant and homely new bar and diner. Bright, open and wooden-floored, the Flying Dog aims for quality and a havenlike atmosphere, while not neglecting the origins of the venue – former barflies here who wander in by accident will be treated to a strong wine list, an ever-

growing range of bottled American beers and the Flying Dog’s own Belhavenbrewed lager. There are two filling food specialities: the house hot dog, served with a variety of slaws, cheese and hot sauces; and the smorrebrod Danish open soda bread sandwiches, as American as their wider discovery at the 1939 New York World Fair. At time of writing it’s a brand new opening, but one which seems admirably in control of the image it wants to present. + One of the few chances to try distinctive Danish open sandwiches in Edinburgh - It must be sheer confusion to wander in as a former local here

The Fountain 131 Dundee Street (Map 4: B4, 72) 0131 229 1899, thefountainbar.co.uk | £11 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The Fountain bar has a rustic, vintage feel, with a clientele of mainly young professionals creating a lively atmosphere. Service is friendly, but perhaps not as attentive as it could be. The all-day menu runs from starters including spiced calamari on to mains such as battered haddock and vegetarian haggis. In addition there’s a regularly changing and extensive specials menu. Ingredients are primarily locally sourced,

Proving popular as a student-friendly hangout, the Mash Tun’s Southside sister bar continues to keep it nice and simple. Warm timber tones and traditional leather banquettes lend a reassuringly familiar feel with chilled-out tunes, Saturday night acoustic sets and a kitchen that’s on the go until midnight. Owner Grant Neil reaches out to old-school pal Stevie’s Puddledub farm for signature menu item buffalo burgers with a range of haggis, pulled pork and jalapeño toppings and a splash of firecracker sauce for the more courageous. Rotating cask ales are a big hit, with Borders brewed Greenmantle IPA alongside an evolving range of craft bottled beers with a shifting emphasis towards home-grown suppliers. There’s more than enough to keep the younger crowd content with good-value weekday burger and beer deals, a well attended Tuesday night quiz and a chance to raise the stakes at the Sunday night poker league. + Proper boozer with bags of student appeal - Preparation of burgers needs to match the quality of the product

The Guildford Arms 1–5 West Register Street, New Town (Map 1B: B6, 44) 0131 556 4312, guildfordarms.com | No Kids (under 5) | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner) For anyone with a taste for great ales,

this place has much to offer. There are ten on tap and there’s a beer festival most months, with big events twice a year. Little wonder that it’s a popular

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venue for city centre drinkers. And its location, just a few steps from Princes Street, means the Guildford captures its share of passers-by. In addition to the buzz of a bar that is also a popular lunch venue, the upstairs restaurant is also a focal point. The compact dining area offers a perfect vantage point for people watching, but there are also attractions on a menu boasting good quality pub food. A chowder comes teeming with tender fish and is one of several seafood options on the menu. Carnivores will also be happy, not least with a sausage and mash dish featuring top-notch bangers from local butcher Crombies. Desserts also have a Scottish leaning, with a traditional cranachan topping the list – all, of course, washed down with a beer or a selection from the excellent wine list. + Great range of ales and good food - Limited room in the upstairs dining area

Hamilton’s Bar and Kitchen 16–18 Hamilton Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 14) 0131 226 4199, hamiltonsedinburgh.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

A dependable choice for the discerning drinkers and diners of Stockbridge and the New Town for more than half a decade now, Hamilton’s occupies a singular position amid the area’s villagelike community. On the one hand, it’s a good late-night drinker with plenty of informal seating and a fun Pop Art mural covering one wall, lending real character to the commendable selection of cocktails and a lengthy but not overstuffed wine list. On the other it’s a neighbourhood diner with a welcoming

TIP/,67 FOR GOOD PUB GRUB • The Blackbird This Tollcross pub goes from strength to strength with great food along the way 23 • The Caley Sample Room Quality produce makes this pub’s grub stand out from the crowd 26 • The Fountain Revitalised bar food that’s a cut above 32 • Greenmantle Classic pub grub including top quality Puddledub buffalo burgers 32 • Old Chain Pier Seafoodbased menu with prime views across the Firth of Forth 36 • The Scran & Scallie High-end pub food from some top chefs 39 • Teuchters Landing Mugfuls of comfort food down by the water 40 • Treacle A New Town bar with a youthful attitude and some excellent food 40

attitude to dogs and families throughout the day, and a substantial menu which runs from 9am with a range of breakfasts including eggs Benedict and scrambled eggs with smoked salmon. The substantial lunch and dinner menus are a cut above standard pub fare, including a homemade pulled pork spring roll and a large salmon fillet served with a dense lemon risotto and red caviar. It’s a bar that makes an effort, which it has to in such a wellcatered area. + Good neighbourhood eating and drinking with a welcoming ethos - The menu could do with streamlining

The Hanging Bat 133 Lothian Road, West End (Map 4: C2, 45) 0131 229 0759, thehangingbat.com | £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

Not so much a bar for beer drinkers as connoisseurs, the Hanging Bat on Lothian Road boasts a formidable selection of nearly 150 different beers. If navigating your way through such an extensive menu seems a tad daunting, the knowledgable bar staff will happily advise and offer you a couple of samples – and if you still can’t decide, beer flights are available, offering five one-third pints of your choosing. To soak up all this booze, the American-inspired food menu is solid and satisfying, featuring home-smoked hot dogs, ribs, wings and meatloaf burgers. Sides are deceptively filling too, but marvelously tasty; mojo potato salad has an unexpected chilli kick, and topping the beer mac ‘n’ cheese with deliciously smoky pulled pork is a stroke of genius. + Decent pub grub that’s different from the norm - Its popularity is such that it’s hard to get served at weekends

Hector’s 47–49 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B1, 9) 0131 343 1735, hectorsstockbridge.co.uk | £8.50 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

A well-established staple of the Stockbridge pub scene, the near twentyfive-year-old Hector’s bears traces of the style-bar fashion which dominated in its earlier years, without feeling tired or stale. It stretches over a reasonably sized area, with the back room feeling cosy and bustling and the front bar affording a good view onto the streetlights of Raeburn Place through curved, floor-toceiling feature windows. Offering a little something for everyone without spreading itself thin, it boasts a decent selection of wines, vodkas and gins, with three guest ales sitting alongside the permanent Deuchars IPA. There’s a pub quiz every Sunday, a very reasonable two and three course fixed-price menu and a good selection of budget sandwiches served with chips, while a fuller daily menu mixes its influences, from Gloucester old spot sausage and mash to southern fried chicken and fries or a wild mushroom gnocchi. Saturday’s extensive brunch menu (served until 4pm) is a local favourite. + Good Saturday brunch - Not a lot of vegetarian options

Hemma 75 Holyrood Road, Old Town (Map 2B: D3, 28) 0131 629 3327, bodabar.com | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Holyrood’s Hemma has become one of Edinburgh’s go-to venues for relaxed family time. Although grabbing its share of the nearby after-work crowd, popular kid-friendly weekend brunches are the main event with chilled-out staff ensuring its nice and relaxed and just enough to amuse waning wee ones. Manna House bread gets the French toast treatment as appealing brunch options support an eclectic all-day menu which exposes

its Scandinavian roots in an impressive smoked trout and marinated herring smorgasbord, alongside well composed salads and clean tasting mains. Twostorey windows bathe the main bar and the hovering mezzanine in light with a confidently mis-matched selection of timber tables, retro armchairs and sinkin sofas. When the tots have skipped away, the grown-up bar takes over with a good range of draughts and the odd cask ale, as well as a healthy cocktail list and carefully selected bottled ciders and lagers imported by the Swedish owners. + Great spot for family-friendly weekend brunches - Daytime visitors forgetting it’s a good evening bar too

A Swedish Café/Bar, perfect after a stroll around Arthur Seat. Kids, dogs and fun people welcome!

Henricks Bar & Bistro 1 Barclay Place, Southside (Map 3A: B2, 21) 0131 229 2442, henricksbar.com | £10.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

As far as enticing eateries go, Henricks Bar ticks many of the right boxes. Goodhumoured staff ensure attentive service from entry to exit, whether you’re in for a passing pint or staying for supper. The spacious bar is a good place for families to enjoy the Sunday lunch deal (£15.95 for two courses and a glass of wine from a generous selection) but equally suits cosy couples and after-work drinkers. With an acute focus on local produce, chefs produce fresh, home-cooked food without fuss or pretence. Their menus are updated quarterly to experiment with seasonal must-tries, so offerings never get stale. Starters include homemade soups and tasty options such as their own flatbread topped with goat’s cheese and chutney. Cod and crab fishcakes are served with mixed leaves and baby roast potatoes, and the wild mushroom gnocchi is a highlight of the ample vegetarian selection. Desserts are straightforward gastro-pub favourites, such as sticky toffee pudding and tangy fruit crumbles. With a cheerful ambience and a welldesigned menu, this spot is an all-round winner for local eating. + Staff are happy for you to linger over your after-dinner coffee: there’s no sense of being rushed - Puddings are a little on the safe and stodgy side

The Holyrood 9A

75 Holyrood Road 0131 629 3327

The home of Swedish meatballs and Idun’s Elderflower cider.

9a Holyrood Road, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 16) 0131 556 5044, fullerthomson. com | £12 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

From the same stable as its Southside cousin The Southern and Lothian Road hangout Red Squirrel, Holyrood 9a has impeccable pedigree when it comes to beer and burgers. With over two dozen draughts on tap including familiar craft beer favourites from Alloa’s Williams Bros and a range of guest ales from the rest of the UK and beyond, the choice is impressive. Throw in another thirty carefully chosen bottles and you know this bar believes that beer is best. When it’s time to eat, a supporting cast of steaks, sides and sharing boards are all worth consideration, but the burgers remain the stand-out option. The eponymous Holyrood teams Hereford Hop cheese and caramelised onion mayo, with a well-sourced beef patty alongside pimped-up piri piri seasoned fries, and not-to-be-missed beer-battered onion rings. Dark wood tones and dialled down lighting keep a chilled-out younger crowd relaxed, while log burning fires and weekend newspapers encourage leisurely family breakfasts. With its renewed enthusiasm and support for Scottish independent brewers, getting a good pint here should be a racing certainty. + Spoilt for choice with this range of ales - Tricky to get a seat for a quiet pint when the kitchen is in full flow

23 Elm Row 0131 556 4140

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The Huxley 1–3 Rutland Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 19) 0131 229 3402, thehuxley.co.uk | £13.50 (lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

Nina Simone’s deep, luxurious voice glides over a modern bass line, encapsulating the eclectic mix of retro-cool and modern style that is The Huxley. A seemingly haphazard collection of classic Americana, modern Scottish and steampunk juxtaposes into a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere, which is reflected on the menu. Main course options are limited to speciality burgers and hot dogs, while the small-plates menu features some unusual treats, including Panko-crumbed deep-fried green olives – an innovative twist on a ubiquitous classic – and rich, succulent beef satay skewers. Coffee, sandwiches and fresh pastries (which, like the bread, are made on the premises) are all served during the day, usually to a mix of families and professionals. Quirky, warm and different, with an extremely reasonably priced range of unusual bottled beers and a considerable list of creatively unique cocktails, The Huxley is a good spot for post-work drinks and a casual dinner. + Great selection of unusual beers and cocktails - Disappointingly dry chilli on the chilli cheese dog

Iglu 2b Jamaica Street, New Town See Scottish

Indigo Yard 7 Charlotte Lane, West End (Map 4: B1, 10) 0131 220 5603, indigoyardedinburgh. co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Almost 20 years ago a courtyard behind Charlotte Square was glazed over, thus extending a simple conversion, and Indigo Yard was born. While the trendiness pendulum has swung hither and yon, Indigo Yard maintains its place in the ‘where to unwind over lunch, after work and on the weekends’ sweepstake. It takes its success in stride. Friendly staff juggle busy tables so you forgive them delays. The menu is more about comfortable than challenging choices. Shetland mussels may come with a French slant of white wine, cream and garlic or Thai edge of chilli and lemongrass. Mains include battered fish and chips, burgers, warm and cold sandwiches and salads during the day, but heartier grill fare at night. Dishes don’t dazzle but nor do they dissatisfy. What merits attention is the wonderful, extensive beer list. The draught list alone features 25 options from around the world, eight coming from Scotland. Bottled beer increases the choice by a further 36, and 10 of these are Scottish. Tear-away beer lists help you keep track of what you’ve tasted. Not a bad way to unwind. + A beer list that keeps on giving - Hectic at lunchtime so not the place to come for a quiet bite

The Inn on the Mile 82 High Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 12) 0131 556 9940, theinnonthemile. co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Those familiar with its previous incarnation, the Bank Bar, will have noticed quite a transformation. Out goes the central bar, replaced by blue leather booths, trendy oversized lampshades and small bistro-style tables in a strippedback room of exposed whitewashed brickwork and soothing grey tones. The elegant walk-up bar ticks all the right boxes with a strong list of vino and fizz, half a dozen well sourced ales and a very respectable range of single malts. Wine, beer and whisky flights aid the 34 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

The Scran & Scallie (page 39): destination pub dining from chefs at the top of their game

indecisive with a handful of cocktails on offer and a nip and half-pint throwback for the old school. While the table service tucker may play to the tourist masses, the menu is tight enough to ensure that most dishes are executed properly. Wrapped in newsprint, a flaky fresh fish supper gets the big reveal with comfortingly crispy batter and well-seasoned chips, arriving alongside Crombies bangers and a goodlooking burger. Decent menu options for the wee ones, plus an appealing Sunday roast and a few sought-after outside tables complete the makeover. + This Jack of all trades should have mass appeal - Keep the retractable TV screens hidden – they ruin the vibe

Isobar 7 Bernard Street, Leith (Map 5A: D2, 22) 0131 467 8904, isobar-leith.co.uk | £5 (set lunch) / £10 (dinner)

In a part of town where there’s no shortage of competition for the eating and drinking pound, Isobar carves out a niche for itself with simple things done right and down to earth prices. With the intimacy of a bar rather than a pub, the unobtrusive street frontage gives on to a long narrow space furnished with a comfortable mix of high stools and banquette seating, the cheery red walls lined with the owners’ hand-picked collection of local photos and drawings. Brunch options run from filled rolls and eggs Benedict variations right up to a mega-meaty full Scottish fry-up, with Bowman’s of Junction Street ‘famous red pudding’ contributing a dash of local colour. Later in the day there are mains such as steak and Guinness pie and the kitchen’s homemade burgers, with chef Allan Woodhall’s famous chips topping the roster of wee dishes that work as sides or snacks to share. There’s a soup and sandwich weekday lunch for a fiver, Cobra and curry night on Thursdays, and a Sunday roast lunch-through-toclosing deal. It’s good, simple, tasty food in friendly surroundings – well worth seeking out. + Working your way through the Leith photo wall, while you work your way through that A to Z of breakfast fry-up

- Not many quiet corners when the footie’s on the TV screen

Jake’s Place 9–13 Market Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 4) 0131 226 1446, jakes-place.co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

While some bars might just dabble at it, Jake’s impeccable craft beer credentials shine through. In an intriguing American-Scottish mash-up, an old school blackboard highlights a healthy list of craft draughts and rotating casks including delicious offerings from Delaware’s Fordham brewery, alongside fridges full of well sourced independently brewed beers from both sides of the pond. Bare brick and corrugated metal wall cladding sit beneath funky copper pipe lighting and lobster pot lampshades in a small but very thoughtfully formed recycled interior. Narrow timber tables fashioned from scaffolding boards support baskets of finger food with mansized portions of sticky ribs, dinosaursized turkey legs and a well-stacked burger. Reclaimed whisky barrels provide shelf space for the city’s finest collection of bourbon and rye whiskey as well as a respectable range of home-grown malts, all coming together in a super wee bar that can’t quite work out why it isn’t a bit busier. + Proper craft choices and finger food - Narrow tables struggling to support drinks and grub

Jeremiah’s Taproom 7–8 Elm Row, New Town (Map 5B: A6, 25) 01315568201, jeremiahstaproom.co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Raised from the bones of the old spit ’n’ sawdust Elm Bar, a home for lovers of fizzy lager and televised football, the new Jeremiah’s Taproom has dived straight into the waters of new-fangled pub class, with a name which speaks maybe a bit too loudly of how it wants people to see it. It’s a nice-looking interior conversion, though, with uplit exposed brick walls and the old feature island bar giving it a bright, open feel. The beer is intended to be a highlight and it does the job, with up to eight rotating guest cask and keg lines on at any time,

alongside a few more familiar tap beers, a decent bottled selection and a range of cocktails. A friendly local atmosphere is now the order of the day, with dogs and kids welcome and football off the screens in favour of less partisan sports like horse-racing and rugby, although the food doesn’t quite meet the high standards set elsewhere. Alongside an extensive breakfast and burger menu sit good quality Crombies hot dogs which are served on a too-sweet bun with, in the case of the chilli dog, an under-seasoned topping. + Good beers and breakfast cocktails, for example the jalapeño margarita - The name’s a bit of a mouthful. Jerry’s, anyone?

Joseph Pearce’s 23 Elm Row, New Town (Map 5B: A5, 23) 0131 556 4140, bodabar.com | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Now an Elm Row institution, Pearce’s – as it is commonly referred to by its sea of regulars – appeals to a smorgasbord of clientele. On a Friday night you will find it stowed out with local office workers and residents, whereas daytime Monday to Friday is a safe-haven for mums and toddlers looking for somewhere child-friendly to socialise. There’s something for everyone on the drinks list. From wine to beer and the particularly delicious elderflower cider, there’s a great deal of choice. The food menu has a good mix of small bites and main meals, and the Bellman’s sharing platter is a great solution for two people not quite hungry enough for a more substantial plateful. The sort of place where you get the distinct impression that everyone is welcome, you can see why this bar has become something of an Edinburgh hotspot on the bar scene. + The Bellman’s sharing platter - Very busy on a Friday night

Juniper 20 Princes Street, City Centre (Map 1B: B6, 48) 0131 556 4901, juniperedinburgh. co.uk | £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

In this companion bar to the restaurant at 20 Princes Street, within the

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refurbished Royal British hotel, new owners Cairn have taken the lead from the top destination venues in the city and thrown their doors (and vista) open to all. Although the highly styled décor divides the sipping classes there’s consensus at the drama of the skyline, with south-facing windows providing a rare opportunity to take a detached view of the bustling city centre. As the name implies, there’s an inclination to gin in the playful cocktail list, but there’s a vast selection of drinks on offer including the surprisingly refreshing Full Scottish Breakfast (Glenmorangie, Ardbeg, marmalade and smoky bacon foam) which shows that there are some impressively eccentric minds and mixers at work. As for food, the recently launched street food menu is strong on vegetarian options and offers an eclectic selection of small and larger bites, ranging from posh chips and cheese to a pigeon sushi roll, by way of lobster macaroni. + Impressive outlook – both architecturally and anthropologically - The décor is not for everyone

The Kilderkin 67 Canongate, Old Town (Map 2B: D2, 31) 0131 556 2101 | £13 (lunch) / £8 (pizza dinner)

Musical references abound at Kilderkin, with owner James’s album covers and vinyl adorning the walls, a wonderfully eclectic playlist on the stereo and a handful of playful evening menu pizza names. Hoinkytoink Woman marries nearby Oink’s pulled pork with red onion and jalapeños, alongside breakfast fryup pizza Eggy Pop, Tuna Turner and a no tomato sauce Matt Bianco – all a steal at £1 on Monday nights. A mixed daytime crowd enjoy a slightly more sober lunchtime menu of bangers and mash, burgers and fish and chips, spiced up by popular Mexican-influenced specials. One of the city’s best rum collections supports regular tastings with a similarly strong selection of whiskies supplemented by fortnightly sipping sessions hosted by Cadenheads. Homegrown cask ales, a couple of draught crafts and a sprinkling of noteworthy bottled brews keep a loyal band of locals content with a popular Tuesday night quiz and cosy back room available to hire. Dark wood tones and a pleasing uplit vaulted ceiling keep it familiar and traditional in one of the Mile’s more understated yet agreeable bars. + Well-stocked no-frills boozer with friendly host - With pizzas £1, don’t be surprised if it’s a bit busy on Monday night

4 The King’s Wark 36 The Shore, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 23) 0131 554 9260, thekingswark.com | £16.50 (lunch) / £16.50 (dinner)

The Shore area abounds with good bars these days, but none can quite match the King’s Wark both for its classic ambience, with stripped-back stone walls and old-fashioned wooden furniture giving it something approaching the air of a rustic country pub, and for the reassuringly effective simplicity of chef Michael Greig’s cooking. A popular spot throughout the day and evening with customers of all ages, the bulk of its business is aimed at diners who know it as a destination treat, particularly during weekend brunch hours when a lengthy menu including traditional full breakfasts, filled spinach crêpes and a plate of smoked haddock with black pudding, poached egg and tattie scone are all on offer. At all times a commitment to fresh, local sourcing is evident, with blackboards proudly displaying the suppliers whose ingredients contribute

to their battered haddock and chips, grilled pork loin and meaty homemade steak burger dishes, with fresh oysters, mussels and a salad of squid and scallops in keeping with the location right on the Shore’s old harbour. + Classic pub food made with care and attention - Don’t turn up unannounced for the weekend brunch

The Last Word Saloon 44 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 20) 0131 225 9009, lastwordsaloon.com | £4.50 (toasties)

From the owners of the excellent Bramble and 2014 newcomer Lucky Liquor Co, the Last Word Saloon is their by now well-established sophomore opening in Stockbridge. Although the steep steps at the front will sadly discourage anyone who might have mobility issues, the basement location is perfect for an atmospheric experience lit largely by candles and low-power bulbs, lending an alluring speakeasy feel. The menu is excellently designed not just to offer alternative methods of alcohol delivery, as a lot of less sophisticated cocktail menus can descend into, but to offer an impression of real texture and flavour balance. The choice is tough, but perhaps you might fancy the gimmicky but ingenious Beer & Nuts – with bourbon, a dash of beer and a shot glass of nuts on the side – or the signature Last Word, created in Detroit in the 1920s and blending gin, green chartreuse, maraschino liqueur and fresh lime juice. A small kitchen means toasties are available, and more pertinently that Last Word is able to make its own syrups and infuse its own spirits. + The combination of atmosphere, service and quality - Seating is hard to come by at the weekend

Lebowskis 18 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: C2, 43) 0131 466 1779, lebowskis.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Fans of the 1998 Coen Brothers’ movie would be unsurprised by the inordinate number of White Russians on the menu at Lebowskis. They have a menu all of their own, in fact. Two if you count the Staff Blends (an extra dozen or so milk and cream cocktails, one designed by each member of the bar staff) which range in taste from Passionate Fruit to Guinness depending on additional mixers. Other cocktails are available, and staff are happy to go off book if it better suits your tastes. The food is pretty much a burgers and hot dogs affair, with the American classics served up on wooden chopping boards with buckets of wedges on the side. The burgers are feats of engineering, and can be piled higher and higher with toppings of your choice from a selection featuring black pudding, goat’s cheese and portobello mushroom. Shareable options such as buffalo wings, sliders and onion rings are produced with as much attention to detail as a main course and represent excellent value for money. + Extensive White Russian list - Can get busy at weekends

The Leith Beer Co. 58 The Shore, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 25) 0131 554 2425, leithbeerco-edinburgh. co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £11.50 (lunch) / £11.50 (dinner)

Given the competition in the immediate area, any pub which sells itself on its beer selection has to be really something to take on the mantle of its district, as Leith Beer Co has. In fact they don’t do too badly with the beers at all, stocking somewhere in the region of 35 bottled

varieties from around the world and ten draught lines, two of which are cask ales. Yet for all its reasonable standards as a drinker’s bar, the former Waterline succeeds because it plays the all-rounder card with such winning confidence. Consisting of a small front bar area with a view over the Shore and a much larger back room containing mostly diner-style seats, the Co. specialises in particularly meaty food menu choices, including pork hot dogs and consistent, high quality beefburgers, as well as wholemeal bread sandwiches and sharing buckets of chicken wings and barbecue sausages. With a jukebox, a weekly pub quiz, a great outdoor seating area and even free phone charging for WiFi addicts, it’s a local which makes a welcome effort. + The meal deals are very good value - Not great for vegetarians

The Lioness of Leith 21–25 Duke Street, Leith, Leith (Map 5B: B1, 1) 0131 629 0580 | £10 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The gentrification of Leith’s bar scene continues apace with this new opening, a foray into the previously littledeveloped Duke Street. Having been an old-style pub which has spent the last few years boarded over, the space now looks fantastic – a large, high-ceilinged corner unit with lots of light and painted cornicing. An old pinball machine and a Street Fighter arcade game are retro features, while modest but well-formed wine and cocktail lists point to a bar that knows what it’s doing. The food menus are strong and their quality is high, although sadly the daytime selection is rather slim compared to what’s available in the evening: before 5pm highlights include a fried brunch, Welsh rarebit and the ‘Gentleman’s Relish’ (chicken and bacon in cream on a cobbler with homemade tomato relish), while by night the selection expands substantially to include wiener schnitzel with roast potatoes, roast pork belly ribs and a guinea fowl and shallot casserole with pommes dauphinoise. + A beautiful bar restored and run with care and attention - The main food event is in the evening; before 5pm is a sideshow

The Mad Hatter 8 Torphichen Place, West End (Map 4: B2, 60) |

An unusual premises in an odd part of town (although the refurbishment of Haymarket rail station and the coming of the trams might enliven the area), the Mad Hatter has taken a small, lowceilinged, L-shaped room and turned it into a commendably cosy little destination pub thanks to a brightening makeover. The second establishment run by the team behind Tollcross’ versatile local the Cuckoo’s Nest, it does a bit of everything without over-reaching. The cocktail and wine lists are reasonably well stocked and the food menu offers contemporary pub food at not unreasonable prices, while there’s a pub quiz every Wednesday, a for-hire function area and overspill bar called the White Room downstairs, and a very reasonable lunch deal of salad or panini and sides for under a fiver. Local office workers and those commuting from Haymarket might want to take note of its presence. + An oasis in an area not well served by bars - So hidden away you might miss it

The Magnum Restaurant & Bar 1 Albany Street, New Town See Scottish

Malone’s Irish Bar 14 Forrest Road, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 54), malonesedinburgh.com | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

‘When Irish eyes are smiling, sure, they steal your heart away.’ So the famous song goes anyway, and Malones Irish theme bar seems to have stolen the hearts of a good many of Edinburgh’s

4 The Lucky Liquor Co 39A Queen Street, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 76) 0131 226 3976, luckyliquorco. com | No Kids

You’d be forgiven for passing 39A Queen Street and assuming the premises is nothing more than a fluorescently titled off licence. Similar to its sister bar Bramble, its understated appearance is deceptive, for Lucky Liquor Co is in fact a shiny-floored cocktail emporium, serving up bespoke beverages and twists on old classics. Bar sheriffs expertly quiz you on your poison of choice and offer a cross-section of ideas based on your personal palate. Should you choose to stick to what’s on the board, there are 13 creations to choose from. The menu is updated seasonally, keeping three firm favourites and inventing ten originals. Enlightening options include the MegaWatt: a tangy ginbased number, tinged with blood orange liqueur and served in a light bulb. Lucky 13 is another winner, mixing bourbon with apricot liqueur and raspberries. The drinks are small, but mighty, so it’s worth noting the staff are happy to knock up something non-alcoholic should you feel the need to lay off the sauce. + Tailored-to-you cocktails and conversation-friendly music levels - Seating is limited, so make a bee-line to a table, or it’ll be the bar stool for you

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youth. Popular with students, thanks to the location, and backpackers, thanks to the 32-bed hostel attached, this place is busy almost every night despite its cavernous size. They’re drawn here by the genuine welcome, the big screens showing live rugby and football, and the live music sessions that take place every night but Monday. The lively atmosphere is bolstered by university sports clubs who use the upstairs rooms as their posttraining hangout, and by the occasional ceilidh in the summer months. The food is classic pub grub – burgers, nachos, fish and chips – but using surprisingly superior ingredients sourced from Eddie’s fish market and Saunderson’s butchers, and only Scottish beef and free-range chicken feature in the burgers. Quality chips and decidedly moreish homemade coleslaw seal the deal on this above-average pub food, and the bottles of hot sauce on every table are a nice touch too. + Surprisingly good pub food - Shabby toilets

The Mash Tun 154 Easter Road, Leith (Map 5B: C4, 31) 0131 661 3896, mashtunedinburgh.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Sister pub to the Newington’s longstanding Greenmantle, the Mash Tun keeps the same cosy, neighbourhood vibe, while injecting just a little bit of style into the drinking spots on Easter Road. The ‘pub classics’ section of the menu features pub grub done well – crispy beer batter encases a fresh, flaky fillet of coley, and a minced steak burger is plump and juicy, with a variety of toppings to mix and match from, which arrive piled so high it’s impossible to get the whole thing in your mouth. Priding themselves on their selection of beers and craft ales, many of which come from Scotland, a bespoke pairing is suggested with each dish, including their pizzas, which have an inventive range of toppings and are available two-for-one when ordered with two drinks. + Decent food in a great local boozer - Those looking for trendy cocktails will be disapointed

The Melville 19–25 William Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 5) 0131 225 1358, themelvillebar. com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

In 2013 The Melville was truly transformed. Gone are the dark, tatty surroundings. Step in today to find it bright, understated, welcoming. The redesign takes full advantage of generous Georgian windows, commanding a high percentage of total wall area to fill the room with light and connect with the local activity in pretty William Street. Yes, you can still get a good pint, but now one of a dozen cocktails, or one of 14 wines by the glass might suggest greater temptation. The menu embodies simple options but done really well. The smoked haddock fishcakes are just what they should be: lots of chunky seasoned fish, just bound into patties and quickly fried until crispy. If you want more lime and coriander mayo, just ask. Beyond standard beef burgers, try the chicken katsu burger, with tonkatsu sauce, one of Japan’s favourite condiments, lending a sweet spicy edge. Can’t decide? Opt for the Melville burger sliders, three mini burgers, but leave room for standard bearer onion rings, firm in their perfect battered coats. All done? Charming staff could easily recommend another cocktail. + A very friendly neighbourhood feel topped up with cocktails - Vegetarians a bit neglected

36 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

The Southsider (page 39): a major makeover reaffirms this pub as a reliable neighbourhood watering hole

The Mercat Bar & Restaurant 28 West Maitland Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 64) 0131 225 8716, mercatbar.com | No Kids (under 5) | £7 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

There’s a slight sense of dissonance about the Mercat. Billed as a gastro pub and equipped with a hugely impressive array of 176 whiskies, on one hand it aims for upmarket appeal, while on the other it emphasises the value for money that its menu, boasting ‘2007 prices’, has on offer. The mixed messages don’t seem to put off the punters, however, who are drawn in droves both to its streetlevel bar, which offers a good selection of Scottish beers – with Williams Bros, Harviestoun and Innis & Gunn to the fore – as well as the basement snug where the uisge beatha flows freely. The selection of pub staples also proves popular, with starters of French onion soup and bruschetta fulfilling their promise, while mains, such as burgers, are more solid than sensational but can’t be faulted for price. + Keenly priced, decently done pub grub - Doesn’t quite merit the gastro prefix

Montpeliers Bar and Brasserie 159–161 Bruntsfield Place, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

Mother’s 24 Howe Street, New Town (Map 1A: C3, 30) 07881 367771, facebook.com/ mothersedinburgh | £12 (lunch)

With a bar stocked with over 60 types of gin, from Scotland and around the world, Mother’s certainly seems to know its spirits. A large blackboard chalks up the varieties on offer, and even advises tonic pairings (with Fever Tree or Fentimans) in case guidance is required. Formerly The Standard, this new incarnation has held on to the old bar’s predilection for sport – rugby and football fixtures are shown on the five massive TV screens – but at the same time cosy booths, cool tunes and dim lighting add atmosphere. The food is a superior offer, with Sunday roasts a feature, and the chefs make their own bread daily and even cure their own meats. Beer and burger combos make

good fodder for big football matches, and a Mediterranean platter with a glass of something cold and white would be a lovely summer’s lunch. Appealing to a younger crowd, Mother’s hosts the Friday-night Floorplay Lounge pre-club in their basement bar, which can also be hired for private events. + A good option for fans of sport and gin - Avoid during big games if you’re not into sport

99 Hanover Street 99 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 92) 0131 225 8200, 99hanoverstreet. com | No Kids

With opulent floor-length velvet curtains and decorative lamps illuminating the den, 99 Hanover Street is a stylish waterhole oozing understated cool. Part of the Speratus group, this spot is famed for its killer cocktails, prioritising quality over quantity. The menu is updated every three months, giving talented staff a chance to mix new concoctions and experiment with quirky blends. From home-brewed hibiscus syrup to Lady Grey tea, these mixologists take a flavour and get complementing with their back bar. While going off menu is encouraged, it’s easy to work up some Dutch courage with one or two house favourites. From Iceland With Love is guaranteed to get your evening off to a glamorous start, blending gin with Aperol, lemon and cardamom, topped up with fizzing prosecco. Kaffir Daiquiri is another winner, infusing coconut rum, lime juice and lime leaf sugar for an easy-drinking treat. As well as these potent potions, 99 also have a Wine of the Week deal for a mere £10, and their £15 prosecco bargain is another crowd-pleaser for a weekend soiree or indulgent after-work drinks. + Great atmosphere and unique cocktails - Bring your credit card: these drinks don’t come cheap

Nobles Bar 44a Constitution Street, Leith, Leith (Map 5A: D2, 20) 0131 629 7215, noblesbarleith.co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

It’s not hard to see why this big Victorian bar draws in locals and tourists for its real ales, music and food. From

the colourful stained-glass windows and large wood panelled bar to the maritime décor, the look is impressive and the atmosphere lively. It’s the sort of place you’d be glad you found if visiting the city. The food is rather more sophisticated than the usual pub grub: a duck and sweet potato ravioli is a delicate Asian-inspired affair infused with chilli and star anise. Locally sourced fish features heavily on the menu, such as baked mackerel spiked with the citrus hit of preserved lemons, or a meaty bream. Fans of burgers won’t be disappointed either – there’s even a rabbit version when in season. At weekends the brunch menu has a particularly good selection of eggs done in various ways, homemade pancakes and of course the full cooked breakfast. + A sympathetically restored Victorian pub - Standing-room only at the weekend unless you book

Old Chain Pier 32 Trinity Crescent, Newhaven, Leith (Map 5A: A2, off) 0131 552 4960, oldchainpier.com | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The Old Chain Pier has a strong historic feel, having been the ticket office for pleasure cruises on the Firth of Forth from the former Newhaven Pier from 1821 to 1838. Indeed the original pier anchor resides within. On a seafoodbased menu, there’s a wide range of options, including catch of the day or freshly prepared and beautifully presented pan-seared scallops with Stornoway back pudding. The mantra of The Old Chain Pier is that they do not do fast food, but only provide fresh food as quickly as they can. Both taste and level of service prove this establishment lives by this maxim. Fourteen wines, including more expensive ones, are available by the glass using a vacuum system to ensure all wines are kept fresh. Fruit and vegetables are from Edinburgh Community Food, which tackles health inequalities in local communities through various initiatives. Especially at the weekend, it’s best to book to ensure a prime view across the Firth of Forth. + View from the large window across the

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Firth of Forth in all directions - Access to toilets difficult for less mobile people

The Orchard has been serving the good people of Canonmills for almost a decade and it’s easy to see why. On the surface, you’d be forgiven for thinking that the food available at here is standard pub grub. Dig a little deeper and you will find really good locally sourced food that would give most traditional pubs a run for their money. Daily specials include a catch of the day and a hearty meat dish and, on a Sunday, the roast dinner option is impressive. If it’s just a drink you’re after, the cosy surroundings and friendly bar staff will see you right, and it will taste all the better if you are lucky enough to snag one of the leather armchairs by the fire. + Friendly atmosphere - Lack of healthier dishes

place to find unless you know you’re looking for it, but it’s also got a certain amount of backstreet charm, a feeling you’ve discovered somewhere off the beaten track in the heart of the city. Although the owners have made conscious steps to move away from a pre-club vibe and turn the place into an attraction in its own right, the atmosphere is still young and lively on weekend nights, and Fridays through summer see a DJ playing soul, funk and hiphop tracks. It’s got a great beer garden, and although food isn’t something the Outhouse does on the premises, a linkup with excellent Leith pizza parlour La Favorita allows customers to order in pizza and pasta from a shortened menu for priority delivery. A feature is also made of regularly changing wall murals created by local artists, while the upstairs function room is used for private parties and some performances during the Fringe Festival. + The feeling of discovering a hidden secret - Cobbled alleyways are tough on high heels

The Other Place

Panda & Sons

2–4 Broughton Road (Map 1B: B2, 9) 0131 556 1024, theotherplaceedinburgh. com | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

79 Queen Street, New Town (Map 1A: B4, 43) 0131 220 0443, pandaandsons.com

The Orchard 1/2 Howard Place, Canonmills, New Town (Map 1B: A1, 1) 0131 550 0850, theorchardbar.co.uk | £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

One of two new bars on opposite corners of a busy Canonmills junction which opened around the same time, the Other Place risked putting itself in second position in people’s affections by choosing that name. it seems to be ticking along just nicely, however, perhaps largely because it’s having a good go at being all things to all people. It’s a comfortable and freshly redecorated place with floor to ceiling doors which offer a literal breath of fresh air during the summer months. Television screens show football, rugby, tennis and other major sporting events, although a troublefree environment is actively encouraged, while the bar prides itself on an international bottled beer selection which numbers around 110 varieties. Food options include a weekend breakfast and a fashionable blend of burgers, hot dogs, sub rolls and ribeye steak, although the macaroni is a bowl of pasta tossed in cheese and as greasy as you might expect from that description. + The huge range of beers - Food isn’t such a winner

The Outhouse 12a Broughton Street Lane, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 32) 0131 557 6668, outhouse-edinburgh.co.uk | No Kids

The Outhouse’s location is both its plus point and its disadvantage. Hidden away down a cobbled lane off bustling Broughton Street, it’s not the easiest

Don your braces and tighten your sleeve garters for a taste of the Prohibition-era at Panda & Sons. This basement bar is already drawing the crowds to max capacity most evenings, despite – or perhaps because of – its anonymous frontage. Passing through a barber shop entrance, guests are directed downstairs and behind a bookcase into a cavern of booze and 80s harmonies. There’s a well-edited menu favouring select whiskies, gins and vodkas. Each page is named after a member of the Panda Family, in a nod to founder and director Iain McPherson and his creative team. The Super Tonic is a smooth start, quenching thirst with Caorunn gin, syrup and Martini vermouth. Move on to an Emperor’s New Clothes for a guaranteed kick-start to your evening, mixing Ron Zacapa rum with umeshu plum sake, peppermint tea and lemon juice. The small cheeseboard platter is a worthy accomplice to these cocktails, full of tangy Scottish cheeses and seasonal chutneys. Complementary fresh popcorn is also provided. Grab the barbershop seats nearest the door to enjoy a spot of people watching. + Beautifully designed interior full of quirky touches - Don’t arrive thirsty as waiting staff are permanently rushed off their feet

/ £10–15 (sharing-platter dinner)

(lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Broughton local Jonny Bristow has created something new and perfectly in keeping with the distinctive character of the neighbourhood with Pickles, a basement café which combines the attributes of a Parisian wine bar and an English country pub. Located underneath L’Escargot Bleu and perfectly suited to post-prandial drinks if you’ve been dining anywhere in the vicinity, it’s at once cosy and impeccably presented, a blend of warm leather armchairs and more formal table seating, with a spacious and leafily secluded outdoor dining snug partially hidden under upstairs’ arched stair. Bottles of wine and jars of chutneys and mustards line the walls, giving a strong indication of what the specialities are – wine, predominantly, with a modest but sociably designed selection of sharing platters encompassing Mediterranean meats, Scottish cheeses from Iain Mellis and Edinburgh Preserves pâtés (the wide range includes venison, wild boar and ostrich). The focus is on relaxed and chatty conviviality for an older crowd, and it’s delivered with service which is efficient and highly personable. + One of Edinburgh’s most relaxed and friendly atmospheres - Food choices are modest

New operations manager Ross Hunter took the reigns at The Potting Shed in early 2014, and the former Tom Kitchin employee has brought around a decade’s worth of Michelin-star experience to this popular Newington watering hole. Big changes are planned for throughout the year, most of which should have taken effect before festival fever hits in August. Plans for an in-bar micro-brewery at the back of the spacious wooden pub would add an air of Chicago to the Potting Shed’s exposed brickwork and chunky oak tables, the aesthetic already bringing to mind an American converted warehouse. A mix of students and locals make up the easy-going clientele. Hearty choices such as burgers and macaroni cheese set the tone for the food menu

Pilgrim 3 Robertsons Close, Cowgate, Old Town (Map 2B: A3, 11) 0131 557 3768, pilgrimbar.co.uk | No Kids | £6 (onecourse dinner)

Hats off to owner Robert Orr for creating one of the city’s quirkiest bar interiors. The room is awash with reclaimed cinema seats, raw timber wall cladding from disused pallets and the funkiest of bars fashioned from charity shop suitcases. Denim clad banquettes sit beneath muted sport on high-level screens, with an agreeable late-night crowd enjoying familiar brews, a good range of craft bottled and draught beers and the usual mix of spirits and shots. After a promising start, the menu hasn’t quite kept pace with the aspiration of the fit-out. Half a dozen modestly sized meaty mains are cheap and fairly cheerful with in-house discount cards offering further savings on food and drink. The bar gets busier most nights from about 9pm, with Thursday night DJs and acoustic sets on Sundays all helping to make Pilgrim a welcome addition to a Cowgate scene that is slowly upping its game. + Confidently stripped-back recycled interior - Room feels better when it’s buzzing

The Potting Shed Pickles 56A Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 16) 0131 557 5005 | £7.50 (lunch)

32 Potterow, Southside (Map 2A: D5, 65) 0131 662 9788, thepottingshededinburgh.com | £15

Locally Sourced Seasonal Menu Scotland’s Best Gourmet Burger Menu Acoustic music sets Beer garden Cocktails, Wines and Real Beers

Lebowskis Edinburgh 0131 466 1779 hello-edinburgh@lebowskis.com Lebowskis Glasgow 0141 564 7988 hello-westend@lebowskis.com

At Malone's Edinburgh we use local ingredients and suppliers to ensure our quality is of the highest possible standard. Fresh home cooked food is what we do best. Our aim in the Malones Kitchen is to produce honest, rustic, home-style dishes using fresh, seasonal ingredients. 14 Forrest Road Edinburgh EH1 2QN 01312265954 malonesedinburgh.com

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which – although very good – plays second fiddle to the impressive drink selection. Craft beer is order of the day, with pumps circling the vast U-shaped bar and the options changing on a daily basis. Well-informed staff are on hand to offer taste tests or talk you through the bottled selection, which is also top of the range. + Looks set to get better and better - Slightly off the beaten track

The Priory Bar & Kitchen 192–194 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 56) 0131 229 5676, theprioryedinburgh.co.uk | £12.50 (lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

Recently opened at time of going to print and even more recently bought over by new owners, the Priory can be forgiven for having the air of a venue that’s just finding its feet. It’s got a certain expectation surrounding it, however, because the premises used to be home to the locally popular Cuba Norte, and some time spent in the unoccupied wilderness has given way to an attractive refurbishment with the Priory’s arrival. It echoes the look of a lot of high-spec new pubs, with dark, clean lines and stylised naked bulbs providing light. The menu is in a state of flux at the time of writing, with the new owners planning a greater selection and a range of tapas options to bolster a modest but well-formed range which includes a panko-crumbed chicken

TIP/,67 FOR BEER & WHISKY • Bow Bar Old-school Old Town pub with an exemplary range of whiskies and real ales 24 • The Dining Room Expert food and drink pairings at this celebration of the amber nectar 94 • Guildford Arms This Victorian pub has a great choice of beers on tap 32 • Hanging Bat Turning the capital’s pub scene upside down 33 • Holyrood 9a Craft beer and crafty burgers at this popular watering hole 33 • Scotch A new singleminded bar bringing whisky tasting to a ﬁvestar environment 39 • Stockbridge Tap Tip-top local near the Water of Leith 40 • Teuchters Landing Waterside pub with a wellstocked bar 40 • The Vintage Craft beers to the fore at this lovely Leith pub 41 • Whiski In tourist heartland but also appealing to locals, with a malt for all tastes 41 38 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Teuchters Landing (page 40): mugs of hearty grub and a great range of craft beers at this waterside pub

burger, Scandinavian-style tagliatelle and the old stand-by battered haddock and chips. Weekend breakfasts and business lunches are also available. + Wine and cocktail options are good - Still finding its groove

Queen’s Arms 49 Frederick Street, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 72) 0131 225 1045, queensarmsedinburgh.com | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Tucked beneath the corner where Thistle Street meets Frederick resides this firm favourite on the New Town drinking scene. After its complete remodel in 2010 under the hand of architect Adam Tibbatts, the bar has enjoyed a steady stream of popularity among the Edinburgh crowds. With a fine selection of hand-pumped ales and an everexpanding choice of wines, this watering hole is a comfortable cavern where the food menu is updated regularly, keeping punters happy with safe favourites such as Scottish beef burgers and fresh haddock with chunky chips. There are also tasty vegetarian options including a chickpea and sweet potato tagine, and the brie and caramelized apple chutney toastie for a light lunch. The real selling point of this pub is the welcoming appeal of the book-lined interior and cosy saloon door cubicles, which are great for avoiding an over-crowded feeling during busy periods. Grab your booth early and settle in for the night. + Comfortable and inviting interior, plus wide selection of wines and ales - Avoid on rugby days

Rascals 65–67 South Bridge, Southside (Map 2A: D4, 76) 0131 556 7387 | £7.50 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Taking over from The Aspen, South Bridge’s new cheeky scamp follows a well-worn path of beer and burgers. Familiar brews are boosted by St Mungo and Innis & Gunn lager on draught, with a mixed daytime crowd and evening punters enjoying cocktail pitchers, half a dozen wines and the occasional shot or bomb. Well stacked burgers dominate an all-day menu and pop up on good value feed-me-for-a-fiver lunchtime offers with

a fairly run of the mill supporting cast of wings, goujons and chilli cheese nachos. Scottish with a fiery temper, the Sir Alex burger arrives topped with jalapeños, haggis and whisky sauce, all slightly undermined by the accompanying fries and relish sides. In what constitutes a fairly modest makeover, a range of light wood tables and high stools are organised around the crimson clad central bar in a room that can occasionally veer towards the bare and bright. + Good value lunch deal - Room layout rather workaday

Red Squirrel 21 Lothian Road, West End (Map 4: C1, 25) 0131 229 9933, redsquirreledinburgh. co.uk | £12 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

An early outlier in the taking upmarket of Lothian Road, Red Squirrel has a diverse constituency of customers, from lunching workers to weekend shoppers and preshow diners. Its reputation rests (as do those of its sister venues Holyrood 9A and The Southern) on a menu which goes strong on the never more fashionable gourmet burger. These venues were early adopters of the trend, and their wide selection will ensure ennui doesn’t set in for regular visitors. The burgers are made onsite from locally sourced meat, and while the toppings could perhaps be a little more plentiful it’s a welcome change from burgers that are bigger than any human mouth. The house special is the Red Squirrel (mustard, Hereford hop hard cheese, rocket and caramelised onion mayo) while alternatives to beef include pork and chorizo, spiced lamb and venison burgers, macaroni cheese, chilli, salads and steaks also combining on a menu which is diverse without over-reaching itself. Twenty draught and almost a hundred bottled beer lines, many of them Scottish craft options, should satisfy those who have already eaten. + One of Edinburgh’s better and less gimmicky burger joints - Location means it misses out on a bit of ‘local’ atmosphere

The Regent 2 Montrose Terrace, Old Town (Map 5B: C5, 28) 0131 661 8198, theregentbar. co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £10 (lunch) /

£10 (dinner)

One of the friendliest bars in the city, the Regent styles itself as ‘Edinburgh’s gay real ale pub’, although calling it ‘straight-friendly’ is another acceptable description. Its L-shaped interior has the high-windowed, comfortably seated air of a local boozer, with the patterned carpets and distinctive colour scheme giving a sense of old-school pub kitsch. On the taps they have cider, the everpresent Deuchars and two regularly changing guest ales, while meal choices are displayed on a chalkboard hanging alongside the bar. Somewhere between an extensive snack menu and a modest but varied pub food selection, the food is homemade but reheated by the staff behind the bar, and includes stovies, macaroni cheese and a thick chicken korma made with good quality poultry, as well as hot dogs, toasties and scotch pies. The food is good value, but serves more as sustenance for those enjoying a lengthy stay in the company of this most hospitable of boozers. + Possibly Edinburgh’s most homely ‘straight-friendly’ gay bar - Food options are plentiful but average pub fare

Rick’s 55a Frederick Street, New Town See Bistros & Brasseries

Rollo 108 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, 2) 0131 332 1232, barrollo.com | No Kids | £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Equal parts wine bar and neighbourhood restaurant, newcomer Rollo is pitched firmly at the more affluent patrons of Stockbridge. Space is used effectively in the small converted storefront premises, a family project which has been brought to fruition by the combined skills of manager Ailsa Rollo, a fashion designer, and her parents George (an architect) and Alison (a sculptor). Cool burgundy tones and sculpted busts complement wallmounted displays of around twenty wines which are sold by the glass or carafe, while the menu is similarly understated but endearingly efficient. A tapas-style arrangement that can be adapted into an à la carte meal, it offers smaller bites

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including crispy breaded haggis bites served with a very lightly whisky-infused marmalade, and larger plates including sea bass, scallops and a rich gumbo of king prawns and mussels in a fresh tomato sauce whose undoubted quality makes up for the diminutive portion. + A nice blend of informality and attention to detail - Premium prices to match the high standards

4 The Roseleaf 23–24 Sandport Place, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 33) 0131 476 5268, roseleaf.co.uk | £13.50 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

There can be few more dependable establishments in the whole of Edinburgh than the Roseleaf, a still-young Shore area bar and restaurant which takes on all challenges and excels in every respect. As an informal pub it’s hard to beat, with a lengthy selection of international bottled beers and wines, as well as homemade still and fizzy fruit juices and a signature line in ‘pot-tails’ (cocktails served in chintzy teapots). As a destination afternoon tea party spot it has cornered the market for groups of ladies willing to try a different spin on the experience and wear a funny hat while doing it. Finally, as a restaurant of formidable quality it maintains its standards year on year, from brunches featuring five different takes on eggs Benedict to the signature macaroni cheese to a slow-cooked confit ox cheek served on (we kid you not) stovie dauphinoise with braised shallot. + Still great at everything - Good luck getting a table at peak times

The Royal Dick Bar & Bistro 1 Summerhall, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

4 The Safari Lounge 21 Cadzow Place, Abbeyhill (Map 5B: C5, off) 0131 661 4741, thesafarilounge.co.uk | £5.50 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Now this is how you do a local pub. Located out in the wilds of Abbeyhill and probably most familiar by sight to those doing the commute in and out to the east of the city, the Safari Lounge’s distinctive orange frontage hides a gem of the city’s pub scene. Its strength is in its versatility – at once it’s a convivial local pub with a friendly atmosphere and a strong beer and wine list worth exploring, and a versatile social hub which hosts private band and DJ functions in the basement (plans are afoot to stage their own in future), as well as televised sport and games in the back room. Yet the food is the real star, prepared by head chef Joseph Malik (formerly of Joseph Pearce’s on Elm Row) with wit and ingenuity to reflect but not unsubtly ape the theme implied by the bar’s name. Lighter bites include mussel popcorn in tempura batter and Chinese pigs in blankets (shredded pork in Chinese pancakes), while mains include a superior satay curry, a North African-style slow-cooked lamb shoulder, inventively stuffed mix ‘n’ match tacos (featuring, for example, jungle brother chilli and manchego cheese), as well as a couple of worthwhile additions to the fashionable pub hot dog roster. + Relaxed atmosphere and a tight menu - Abbeyhill’s a little out of the way unless you live locally

The Salisbury Arms 58 Dalkeith Road, Southside (Map 3C: E4, 28) 0131 667 4518, thesalisburyarmsedinburgh.co.uk | £22 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Wood panelling, coal fires and brocade armchairs give the Salisbury Arms the rustic elegance of a high-quality country pub. You could almost forget that the

restored Georgian building sits opposite Edinburgh University’s main halls of residence, a fact which isn’t strongly reflected in this borderline gastro pub’s clientele. The menu features the familiar pub grub options done particularly well, with locally sourced meat and seafood taking centre stage. Various surf and turf options including grilled fillet steak and lobster tail require and deliver on high levels of culinary accomplishment. These restaurant level standards (and prices) seem somewhat at odds with the ‘local pub’ image that the Salisbury Arms is keen to promote. Thirstier visitors will be relieved to discover a drinks menu with the thoroughness that only a pub could offer. Guest ales share the pumps with more familiar lagers, and fridges are stocked with a variety of bottled beers and ciders from around the globe. Drinkers can register for the Salisbury Arms ‘Wine Club’ which provides discounts, tasting notes and regular meetups. The wine list is an area of pride for the pub, with staff ready and willing to make recommendations. + Surf and Turf - Too smart to feel like a true local

Scotch The Balmoral Hotel, 1 Princes Street, New Town (Map 2A: D1, 2) 0131 524 7142, roccofortehotels.com

Whether you drink your whisky for enjoyment or for appreciation, be sure to pay Scotch a visit soon. Even if you don’t know your Scotch from your Bourbon, this could be your educational alcohol lesson for the year. Situated in the shiny emporium of the Balmoral Hotel, Scotch quietly entered the whisky bar scene in August 2013, allowing concierge staff to simply guide guests through the lobby when they ask the inevitable question: where can I find some good whisky? The stylish interior is courtesy of Olga Polizzi, with leather armchairs and tweed-covered sofas arranged beneath the tremendous oak-panelled cabinet that dominates an entire wall, encasing over 440 whiskies. Guests may enjoy a full tasting session from one of the Kinloch Anderson-clad aficionados behind the bar, or choose from the intriguing menu. Ease in gently before becoming a dramdrowning expert, with something from the extensive cocktail selection such as the Cameron Fizz. A generous tot of Cameron brig is sweetened with brown sugar and topped up with champagne, making an elegant aperitif to start your evening, and your engines. + An outstanding selection that’s completely accessible for both whisky experts and first-time drinkers - There are not enough places like this in Edinburgh

cubes of ox tongue on toast presented alongside a hunk of marrow in the bone. Mains include a breaded veal escalope in a lemon and caper butter and a dense ball of pulled hogget shoulder presented atop a pea and lettuce sauce. In addition, the small children’s (‘scallies’) playroom has helped spread the deserved renown of the place among a broad audience. + Combines fine dining and relaxed informality to perfection - Not really a pub in the classic sense

Shebeen 8 Morrison Street, West End See Round the World

The Shore Bar & Restaurant 3 The Shore, Leith See Bistros & Brasseries

Sofi’s 65 Henderson Street, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 32) 0131 555 7019, bodabar.com | £9 (sharing platter)

The near-Shore outpost of the Swedish pub chain that also owns Holyrood’s Hemma and Leith Walk’s Boda, Victoria and Joseph Pearce isn’t quite as bustling as its contemporaries, but what it has done is reinvent itself as a strong contender for the finest neighbourhood pub in the city. Decorated with shabbychic character, it’s a snug space where drinkers can find a nook to be alone or join in with the conversation around the bar, while the beer and spirit selections are a good cut above those of your average local boozer. Yet it’s in the social aspect that Sofi ’s really excels, with a range of activities throughout the month. At time of writing these include a free Monday night cult film screening, an open mic music and comedy night on Sunday and the Talking Heids poetry night on the last Tuesday of every month, as well as record and clothes swaps, a knitting club and a monthly Pugs in Pubs event for dog-owners. All cocktails are £5 on Sunday, and basic sharing platters offer a better class of bar snack. + You won’t be short of things to do - Regular-friendliness can be a little overwhelming for newcomers at first

The Southern 22 South Clerk Street, Southside (Map 3C: D2, 17) 0131 662 8926, thesouthern. co.uk | £12 (set lunch) / £12 (set dinner)

When next on the hunt for a succulent burger and quenching craft beer, pop into The Southern on your Southside travels. As a sister bar of the Holyrood 9A and Red Squirrel, rest assured you are in for a treat with their meaty feasts. Quirky and hospitable with a velvet curtain entry and a fire-heated interior, this pub is a much-appreciated addition to

South Clerk Street. They even welcome dogs. Choose from locally sourced 6oz beef burgers or tender chicken breast in sourdough artisan buns. The BBQ burger is a delicious choice, topped with salty smoked bacon and tangy chilli cheese. Perhaps surprisingly, this burger fiesta is also popular with vegetarians. There are several tempting options such as the halloumi burger, fired up with chilli mayo and crisp peppers. Sides are a must-have, with tempting onion rings and sweet potato fries on offer. The back bar is plentiful and teetotallers can enjoy a homemade milkshake. Beers rotate frequently depending on new offerings from suppliers, but there is a consistent offering from William Bros situated in Alloa. + Thick, juicy burgers and incredible milkshakes - The popularity! It’s nigh on impossible to get a table at the weekend

The Southsider 3–7 West Richmond Street, Southside (Map 2B: A5, 14) 0131 667 2003, thesouthsiderpub.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Recently reopened after a comprehensive makeover, the Southsider has quickly re-established itself as a reliable and keenly priced neighbourhood boozer. The new look is a game of two halves with traditional warm tones in the main bar alongside a comfy room of dining booths and banquettes, with a timber panelled curtained-off snug for hire. There are good value deals on selected spirits, house wine and familiar beers, with a few craft draughts and cask ales appearing alongside a fistful of whiskies. The menu has perked up a touch with buckets of wings, stuffed jalapeños and haggis bites alongside an appealing list of burgers, hot dogs and pizzas. TV screens hover above the bar capturing the majority of available live sport, with a Thursday quiz and Saturday night live music keeping it interesting for a loyal band of returning regulars. + Drinks deals can make for a cheap and cheerful night out - Are the fruit machines absolutely necessary?

Stac Polly Brasserie, Wine and Gin Bar 29–33 Dublin Street, New Town (Map 1B: B4, 60) 0131 556 2231, stacpolly.com | £15.95 (set lunch)

The fresh-faced little sister to the traditional Scottish restaurant below stairs, Stac Polly’s brasserie and bar is just a year old, and still feels new. This is New Town Scottish: tastefully muted colours, Bute tweed lampshades, an abundance of antlers and a thickly bound drinks menu make it a place for

4 The Scran & Scallie 1 Comely Bank Road, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, 1) 0131 332 6281, scranandscallie.com | £21 (lunch) / £21 (dinner)

The new ‘public house with dining’ from Tom Kitchin and his partners is predictably excellent, although it’s a Stockbridge kind of a pub rather than a backstreet boozer. Decorated in spotless earthy tones, there’s a hint of bright and airy English country pub to the décor, but the produce is strictly Scottish. Neatly marked maps on the walls show the provenance of the mightily impressive beer selection, chosen from breweries as far afield as Orkney and the Hebrides (the wines, spirits and especially whisky choices are also great), while mainly Scottish ingredients contribute to an earthy and well-sculpted menu. This is traditional pub fare prepared to the nth degree, including starters of squat lobster ravioli in a rich cream sauce and fried

11 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH, EH10 4HN

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Ps & Qs, particularly as rooms are so wee (you don’t want the neighbours to talk). The thirteen-strong gin list is nicely chosen with the best of Scottish names like Caorunn and Darnley’s View making an appearance, each with their own matched garnish, from nutmeg to cherry to cucumber. The brasserie lunch menu is an introduction to Alba with haggis among the starters and mains, alongside the likes of goat’s cheese and red onion tarte tatin and beef pie with smoked bacon and a tarragon parmesan crust. Desserts feature Edinburgh Fog, a creamy classic whipped up with almonds and a wee dram. A lighter menu of vegetable, meat and fish sharing platters is served from 5pm onwards, or 6pm on Sundays. + Their only cocktail, a raspberry Edinburgh Gin fizz, is a bargain - But the G&Ts are pricier

The Stand 5 York Place, New Town See Arts Venues

Stockbridge Tap 2 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B1, 8) 0131 343 3000 | No Kids | Closed Mon | £11.50 (lunch) / £11.50 (dinner)

An oasis of old-time familiarity in the heart of long-since gentrified Stockbridge, the Tap is the boozer of choice for regular locals who don’t expect their drinking haunts to come with an award-winning menu or an extensive wine list. That said, it doesn’t skimp on the drinks specialities – there are seven cask ales behind the bar, five of which are guests, while an impressive bottled collection features somewhere in the region of seventy malt whiskies and fifteen gins. Its L-shaped bar, the back room of which was not so long ago refurbished, is simply decked out but well suited to disappearing into a snug or watching the world go by outside on Raeburn Place, while the food is traditional but not tired. Among the usuals it does perfectly well are steak pie, battered fish of the day and chips, and a differing Sunday roast every week, while there are also a number of burger and bagel sandwich options. + Exemplary beer and whisky choices - One for the barflies on weekdays

The Street 2 Picardy Place, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 31) 0131 556 4272, thestreetbaredinburgh.co.uk | No Kids | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Perched at the top of bustling Broughton Street this LGBT friendly bar has a bit of everything. It delivers fun early evening cocktails (try the raspberry daiquiri) to the crowd heading out as well as a thumping great club scene into the wee small hours. There’s a two-page menu of pub grub for the day (including a packed burger and fries) and snacks accessible till midnight. In general beer and wine is kept simple with a handful of taps and eight wines by the glass, but there are also innovative microbrewery bottles (Mongozo, Brew Dog) on offer for those who want to experiment with something new. Also doubling as a festival fringe venue this year the best thing about The Street is the service, being friendly and welcoming to nine-year regulars, tourists, clubbers and anyone else who steps into this eclectic melting pot. + Seriously, try the raspberry daiquiri - Some of the décor is worn thin

Sygn 15 Charlotte Lane, West End (Map 4: B1, 9) 0131 225 6060, sygn.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Tucked away down Charlotte Lane you’ll find Sygn, famous for its £5 40 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

cocktail menu and handy location for West Enders. Even if you don’t usually frequent this zone, Sygn is worth the trip. Adam Storey takes credit for the well-designed interior, with unique features such as copper piping and an art school style cast-iron back wall. The menu continues this trendy motif, with delectable cocktails carefully categorized, as well as the list of American diner dishes. Choose from fillers such as gourmet ‘haute dogs’ (including a welcome veggie option) plus fresh stonebaked pizzas and thickly relished burgers. While the cuisine stays consistent throughout the year, new cocktails are developed regularly. Awarded Best Cocktail List 2013 by Scottish Bartender Network, these guys know their stuff. Regular sticklers on the menu include the Gentlemen’s Club with Bombay Dry and raspberry syrup mixed with vermouth. Batch 27 is one for those who love their hard liquor: a very boozy whisky-based number, served in a hipflask to pour over ice. Come for the cocktails, stay for the surroundings: Sygn doesn’t disappoint. + Great cocktail list and very hip interior - The calorific menu isn’t ideal if you are looking for a healthier option

Teuchters 26 William Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 3) 0131 225 2973, aroomin.co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Located in the heart of the West End, a prime location for business-suited rugby aficionados knocking off from work or getting ready for a big weekend match at Murrayfield, Teuchters (and the sister A Room in… restaurant in the basement) strangely doesn’t manage to carry quite the same cosmopolitan feel as its sister bar Teuchters Landing in Leith. It’s a rugged, manly kind of a place, with big screens for the sport and a serious attitude towards its drink – and with a collection of around ninety whiskies, including selections from as far afield as Japan, France and New Zealand, its reputation in this respect is just as seriously well-deserved. The wine list, bottled beer selection and guest ale and keg lines (one of each) are also well above average, although a food menu which mirrors that of the Leith operation isn’t quite as subtle, with a rich macaroni cheese (with or without bacon), haggis stovies or Cullen skink served up in a mug, and a well-done venison and pork hot dog served with potato wedges. + The whisky selection is staggering, and so will you be - It’s a bloke’s paradise

Teuchters Landing 1c Dock Place, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 10) 0131 554 7427, aroomin.co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Set on the water’s edge at the shore in Leith in an old ferry waiting room, this is one of the best spots in town for summer alfresco drinking. It’s popular throughout the rest of the year too, serving a wide range of cask ales and bottled beers with an emphasis on craft Scottish brewers. There’s an impressive whisky list with helpful tasting notes and bar staff happy to offer advise on the array of drinks on offer. The pub has expanded into what was previously a restaurant giving drinkers more space. Food is simple, fresh and unfussy, much of it served in mugs. Lots of Scottish produce is on offer ranging from bar snacks to seafood such as Argyll oysters or a smoky Cullen skink. Big appetites will be satisfied with the deeply flavoured burgers made from Borders beef – top quality food to match the great beer. + Great showcase for Scottish beer - Counting the calories in the Big Belly Buster Beast burger

Tigerlily 125 George Street, New Town See Bistros & Brasseries

Tonic 34a North Castle Street, New Town (Map 1A: B4, 46) 0131 225 6431, bar-tonic. co.uk | No Kids

Tonic is a mecca for the cocktail drinker in Edinburgh. This low-lit, funk-infused basement bar has no food to distract from the main event: a drinks menu that provides for the seriously classic and the deliriously frivolous cocktail lover. A wide selection of spirits, with a strong Scottish contingent, provide the base for drinks like the mint choc chip inspired Barney Rubble (ice-cream, Baileys and crème de menthe), or their take on a Porn Star Martini (a creamy caramel and passion fruit standout on the menu). There are Tonic staples like the sorbet and vodka tower of pink ice that makes up a Silver Mercedes, and a Tue–Fri specials board with cocktails under £5. The staff take their role in your experience seriously and are happy to talk shop or create something more personal if you want to go off menu. The new cocktail list for 2014 arrives in the summer. Watch out for the frothy rum and pineapple Hotel Nationale. + The Porn Star Martini - Super busy at the weekend

The Tourmalet 25 Buchanan Street, Leith (Map 5B: A3, 11) 0131 555 4387 | No Kids

Owned by Murray McKean, former owner of the Pond down in deepest Leith, the Tourmalet conjures a similar backstreet oasis atmosphere for regulars from near and far. Only open in the evening, it’s cosy and lively all at once, with low lighting, high windows surrounding the corner frontage and (as you might have guessed from the name) cycling memorabilia adorning the walls. It’s idiosyncratic without being weird: they only show ‘minority sports’ – cycling, rugby, golf – on the television, while the feature model railway track running around the ceiling is a nice touch that’s sadly currently static, and German beers are a speciality. Should you need any other recommendation to go (bar the fact that this is a truly nice pub) the German beer should seal the deal, with up to 40 bottled varieties on the rota at any one time. It also helps to know that the Tourmalet is dog-friendly and welcoming to anyone bearing takeaway food bought elsewhere. In fact, an order from excellent local pizza joint Origano to the premises will get you a ten per cent discount. + Great German beers and a friendly welcome - If only that train set worked

Traverse Bar Café 10 Cambridge Street, West End See Arts Venues

Treacle Bar and Kitchen 39–41 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 27) 0131 557 0627, treacleedinburgh.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

They don’t make bars much cooler than Treacle. Situated on fashionable Broughton Street, with its exposed brick décor, low lighting and laid-back ambience, it’s the sort of place that makes you feel cool just being there. A recent revamp of the cocktail menu gives it a more grown-up vibe, with lots of signature drinks that will appeal to cocktail connoisseurs – the Elves and the Shoemaker is a standout drink. There’s a decent wine list and a good selection of beers, both on tap and by the bottle, but it’s not just about drinks: Treacle’s food

is a real strength too. Noodles served in New York-style boxes are incredibly tasty, as are the homemade pies and the salads, all of which are served in generous portions. There’s an impressive range of gluten-free and vegetarian options, and the dessert menu is particularly tempting: the Belgian waffles laced with Nutella taste every bit as good as they sound. + Excellent food at a reasonable price - Music can be loud at the weekend

Under the Stairs 3a Merchant Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 44) 0131 466 8550, underthestairs. org | No Kids | £5.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Amiable owners Debs and Gav have worked hard to cultivate just the right atmosphere in their bohemian basement bar. A funky front room with fish tank and log-burning fire leads past comfy retro armchairs and kitschy lampshades to a stone-walled dining room with candles perched in pint pots and confidently mismatched furniture. Table service throughout keeps it nice and chilled for a diverse crowd, enjoying a well stocked bar and an appealing all-day menu. Beetroot and wasabi margaritas head an intriguing list of popular seasonal cocktails with a carefully composed wine list and an increasing shift towards home-grown lagers and craft ales. There’s ambition evident in the kitchen with careful handling of culinary influences and good sourcing throughout. Earthy rich mushroom and pecorino parcels precede a light and fresh tasting crab and brown shrimp linguine with sharing antipasti and cheese boards available until midnight. Saturday DJs keep it on message for a loyal late-night crowd, with a number returning next day for reviving chipotle and habanero spiked Bloody Marys and veggie friendly Sunday roasts. + A grown-up basement bar - Not every dish is a knockout

The Ventoux 2 Brougham Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 2) 0131 229 5066 | No Kids

The younger sister bar of Leith’s Tourmalet, this relaxed Tollcross hangout features a similarly eccentric modus operandi of plentiful bottled German beers, overt cycling theme (both are named after stages on the Tour de France, which is about the only sporting contest you’ll ever see televised on the big screen in the Ventoux) and old-school pickled eggs behind the bar. It’s a lovely, relaxing little place, with the large fish tank in the corner setting a scene of idiosyncratic tranquillity, although there’s a slight feeling that this is a Leith bar in spirit which has been sited outside its natural habitat. Many of the drinking options in this neighbourhood are either painfully cool or pack ’em in and sell ’em cheap, but the character and charm of the Ventoux are best suited to those who want a proper local to go to. For them, it comes recommended. + Great German beer selection - A Leith fish out of water

Victoria 265 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A2, 5) 0131 555 1638, bodabar.com

A stone’s throw away from its little sister Boda, Victoria attracts a range of clientele, from local drinkers to Leith’s distinctive breed of hipsters. Gin is a real strength of this bar, stocking all of the usual suspects, plus a few more obscure options for the gin connoisseurs. The selection of beers is also good, with a focus on the craft variety. There is little in the way of food at Victoria, aside from crisps and bar nibbles, but its ‘anything

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those who enjoy the conviviality of an old-fashioned pint and a chatter, yet it stays well away from the less attractive elements of those nearby places which haven’t changed with the times. Home away from home to a broad mixture of older barflies, students, creative types and so on, the selection behind the bar is commendable, with one of the most proudly expansive selections of rums in the city – totalling at least forty – and a good chunk of whiskies alongside, somewhere in the region of around thirty. There are also three real ales alongside the perennial Deuchars IPA, and some basic bar snacks in the form of nachos and toasties, and dogs are more than welcome too. + A great old-school drinker’s pub - Not the most versatile

Woodland Creatures 260–262 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A2, 4) 0131 629 5509 | £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

The Basement (page 23): a quirky, modern and reliable place for food and drink thanks to a recent redesign

goes’ attitude means that food brought in from local eateries won’t be frowned upon. This bar’s layout lends itself perfectly to live music, and as a result bands and DJs regularly take to the stage. + Laid-back atmosphere - No real food options

4 The Vintage 60 Henderson Street, Leith (Map 5A: C3, 31) 0131 563 5293, thevintageleith.co.uk | £13 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Since opening in 2013 The Vintage has won a host of awards and a reputation as one of the best places to drink and eat in Edinburgh. A joint venture with the Williams Brothers Brewery, this relaxed, friendly bar takes the idea of a gastropub and raises the standard with produce carefully sourced from small producers. The grazing menu is a great way to sample lots of delights, such as beer pickled shellfish or the delicately smoky charcuterie, much of which is cured on site. Main courses demonstrate how well simple food can be done: chips are fried twice for extra crispness, and batter for the haddock is made from craft beer. The concise menu caters well for vegetarians, eschewing the usual suspects for dishes like Jerusalem artichoke pithivier. The attentive staff show real knowledge of the dishes, creating a restaurant dining experience in an informal pub settling. + Great craft beer and charcuterie - Book in advance: it gets busy

The Voodoo Rooms 19a West Register Street, New Town See Bistros & Brasseries

The WestRoom 3 Melville Place, West End (Map 4: B1, 7) 0131 629 9868, thewestroom.co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Depart hectic Melville Place and the West Room creates a stylish setting in which to unwind. The long, extensive bar immediately captures attention and demands a second look. The cocktail list makes use of this very full scope of ingredients, eschewing the usual suspects and blazing its own trail. Flavours are carefully balanced and drinks well crafted but portions seem particularly small, so sip slowly. The succinct menu focuses on a mix of pub standards and Scottish favourites with a few interesting creations thrown in. The lamb shank tagliatelle is a particular success, the thick ragû generously piled atop the al

dente noodles, a delicious change from the typical beef based dish. But portion control is maddeningly inconsistent: the set portion of two tiny over-seared scallops and slice of black pudding is lost in the sea of a rather perky green pea purée and should barely count as a starter, let alone a main. Staff do their best to serve with a smile and the welcome feels genuine, but unfortunately you’re as likely to leave hungry as not. + The staff are genuinely welcoming - Inconsistency from the kitchen

Whighams Wine Cellars 13 Hope Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 17) 0131 225 8674, whighams.com | £12 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Down well-worn stone steps to one of Edinburgh’s best places to uncork a bottle, Whighams layers decades of tradition with a relaxed, modern feel. Reconditioned bin areas provide cosy candlelit caves for intimate discussion or private gatherings, while the bright, openplan bar and restaurant area enables you to forget you’re in a basement. Without question, the reason to roll up is the wine list. With 40+ bottles by the glass and the same again as bottles only, the selection shows only a slight preference for old world over new, and a sincere nod to some classics. The menu is sheer Whighams, much of it unchanged since the early years – why mess with success? Creamy Cullen skink and classic potted shrimp for spreading on crunchy toast take the edge off your hunger. The chilled seafood sharing platter is rather modest for the price, well executed though it may be, but the traditional Buccleuch silverside rare roast beef salad is good, while still leaving room for some wellexecuted puddings. + Great wine list - Missing the wee wine bar Whighams used to be

Whiski 119 High Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A2, 6) 0131 556 3095, whiskibar.co.uk | £19 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Unashamedly targeting the passing tourist trade, Whiski is stuffed to the gunnels with whisky boxes and bottles and an interesting assortment of visitor friendly memorabilia and Scottish knick knacks. Popular tastings offer a helpful introduction to the 300 or so Scottish single malts on offer, with a strong supporting cast of draught and bottled

craft ales, two dozen wines and a handful of dram-inspired cocktails. Dark wood tones and subdued lighting ensure there’s crossover appeal for locals and returning regulars with a table service front bar and a relaxing rear dining room of stone floors and leather banquette seating. Not surprisingly a tipple or two pops up on a well-considered menu of steaks and meaty mains with a whisky and onion chutney perking up the signature steak burger after a delicate smoked mackerel pâté kicks things off nicely. As the kitchen throttles back, late-night live music revs up with engaging session musicians adding a touch of folk and bluegrass to one of the Royal Mile’s more convivial watering holes. + Keep calm and drink whisky - Can feel more eatery than bar at times

The White Horse 266 Canongate, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 22) 0131 557 3512 | £6 (one-course lunch) / £6 (one-course dinner)

From the Jacobites and Samuel Johnson to the Corries and Connolly, the Royal Mile’s oldest tavern has seen it all. The narrow front bar leads to its current star attraction, a welcoming windowless snug ideal for whiling away a rainy afternoon or hosting a low-key shindig. With stone walls and subdued lighting, this cosy room comes to life in the skilled hands of kilted Calum and his Scottish Storytelling tales with free Fringe comedy on the hour from midafternoon to midnight. Glasgow brewers WEST 4 lager is the notable beer in an otherwise pedestrian choice of familiar draughts, with a shelf or two of whiskies and a decent cup of coffee. The recently rolled out Sunday roast and big bowls of nachos are continuing to prove good value. Otherwise its entry-level pub grub fare, with haggis, mince and tatties and a popular plate of stovies dished out to a steady stream of Royal Mile tourists and weekend regulars, in a bar that isn’t veering far from the tried and trusted. + Snug as a bug in the back room - Lacks a bit of ambition

Windsor Buffet 45 Elm Row, Leith (Map 5B: A5, 20) 0131 556 4558 | No Kids | £2.75 (toasties)

An oasis of the old-fashioned on an increasingly scrubbed-up Leith Walk, the Windsor Buffet boils together woodpanelled, leather-seated, lived-in class with the sense that it’s a real haven for

Despite being in possession of perhaps Leith Walk’s only proper beer garden (accessible through a wardrobe within the bar) Woodland Creatures hasn’t gone down the route of styling itself as an outdoorsy summer watering hole. The unassuming grey façade hides a denlike dark wooden gem of a local pub. A large U-shaped bar at the centre of the room boasts a good selection of beers on tap and fridges full of bottled varieties, many brewed in the city itself. The food also leans towards the locally sourced, with hearty burgers and sandwiches served up on wooden chopping boards, accompanied by wire baskets full of hand-cut potato wedges. At the weekend DJs transform the bar into a makeshift club night, with funk and soul nights proving popular with locals. The rest of the week, the bar is laid back with punters taking advantage of the dogswelcome policy, a fitting addition to the rustic and cosy feel of the place. + Original, fun and welcoming - Facade is a bit uninviting

TIP/,67 FOR PIZZAS • BrewDog Crisp bases and quirky toppings to accompany the crisp, quirky beer 24 • La Favorita Woodﬁred wonders from an expanding pizza empire 81 • Italian Kitchen Classy pizzas in a classy Stockbridge venue 82 • Kilderkin Beer and pizza join forces in a Royal Mile boozer with character 35 • The Mash Tun Great pizza deals at this local pub on Easter Road 36 • Origano These handmade pizzas shine amid the Leith Walk chains 82 • Peter’s Yard Stockbridge Sourdough pizzas for the Stockbridge masses 58

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 41

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

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EDINBURGH

BISTROS & BRASSERIES Some of the capital’s best-kent chefs have branched out from fine dining in recent years and tossed their toques into the bistro ring, showing the rising popularity of the genre. While the culinary heavyweights might hog the headlines, however, they are far from the undisputed chiefs of the bistro scene. Not only do they have to do battle with a number of the capital’s landmark hotels, but they also have to vie with the talents of all manner of inventive independents. Reviewers: Sylvie Docherty, Rob Fletcher, Paul McLean, Sandy Neil, Claire Sawers

A Room in Leith 1a Dock Place, Leith See Scottish

A Room in the West End 26 William Street, West End See Scottish

Aizle St Leonard’s Street, Southside (Map 3C: E2, 16), aizle.co.uk | £35 (set dinner)

With its name taken from an old Scots word meaning ember or spark, April 2014 sees the launch of ‘Scotland’s first neo-bistro’ as Aizle (rhymes with Hazel) opens on the site of the former Karen Wong’s on St Leonard’s Street. Gone are the popular Chinese restaurant’s bright red and yellow frontage, replaced by fresh blue and white paintwork. Husband and wife team Krystal Goff and Stuart Ralston have travelled the world and now bring ambitious plans to the capital, aiming to fuse his chef skills and her mixology experience into a destination restaurant in Edinburgh’s

Southside. The 44-seater bistro will serve a hyper-seasonal dinner menu and some unconventional cocktails made using produce sourced fresh from farms and markets each day – and at around £35 for four courses, it promises to be excellent value. Sparks may fly. [Not open at time of going to press. See food. list.co.uk for updates.]

Amicus Apple 17 Frederick Street, New Town (Map 1A: C5, 65) 0131 226 6055, amicusapple. com | No Kids (under 5) | £15 (set lunch) / £16.50 (dinner)

For a spot of lunch in between shopping, or (weather permitting) a couple of cocktails on the terrace, Amicus Apple is a great city-centre daytime hangout, as well as a classy and stylish venue for dinner, or evening drinks before hitting the town. Although it can be seen to adopt a ‘one size fits all’ approach, Amicus Apple has a certain chameleonlike quality and blends these different identities very successfully. With an à la carte menu which boasts pub classics such as fish and chips and a selection of burgers, some more sophisticated and less calorie-laden options are available too. A salad of smoked chicken breast with crisp, juicy pomegranate seeds has a lovely flavour combination, although the apricot crumb doesn’t work quite so well with rack of lamb. Cocktails are a must here, and if you can’t see your favourite on the menu, the bar staff will stop at nothing to prepare it just how you like it, even if that means popping out to the shops for ingredients. + Flawless waiting staff - Even in the restaurant area, music at weekends can be a bit loud

The Apartment Bistro 7–13 Barclay Place, Southside (Map 3A: B2, 22) 0131 228 6456, apartmentrestaurant.com | £12 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Insightful, minimalist décor choices made at the turn of the millennium allow The Apartment to remain contemporary, with a look inside and out that could

sit comfortably on a Paris street. The regularly changing menus comprise à la carte, specials and reasonably priced set meals. Tastes of the Med are recurrent, with offerings of tasty plump olives and artisan bread with herb-infused oil as pre-starters. Opt for their signature fish, meat or veggie skewers with coleslawstuffed pitta, or slabs of first-rate steak served with decidedly Gallic-looking shoestring fries and salad. Winning combinations are often at play, like in a wild mushroom, chestnut and goat’s cheese risotto. Pleasant staff and relaxed surroundings are slightly let down by some uninspiring pudding options, but a thoughtfully compiled drinks list caters for all and includes wines by the glass in various sizes and a large selection of interesting non-alcoholic beverages. Once a place to be seen, The Apartment has become a dependable neighbourhood eatery welcoming all ages, which should enable it to stand the test of time. + Good-value set menus - Could do better on desserts

Apiary 33 Newington Road, Southside (Map 3C: D3, 25) 0131 668 4999, apiaryrestaurant. co.uk | £9.50 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

To avoid any confusion, it’s nothing to do with hairy mammals – it’s all about the bees (an apiary, for the uninitiated, is a collection of beehives). Or, indeed, the birds and the bees, as this Southside newbie is the younger sibling to Bruntsfield’s Three Birds. Their popular take on modern British grub has been successfully transplanted to this former bank building on Newington Road, its grand proprtions softened by cosy booths, a chunky wood counter and playful bee-patterned wallpaper. Lunch deals are cracking value at less than a tenner for two courses and there are some tempting share platters covering seafood, meat, ribs and curry options. A ham hock hash cake, crowned with hollandaise and a soft poached egg, is comfort food manna, while mini parmesan-crumbed pork schnitzels

are given vinegary oomph from caperstudded gribiche sauce. A simple panfried fillet of cod could do without its slightly tasteless crayfish bedfellow, but it’s a minor quibble. Make a beeline instead for the moist warm coconut and cardamom sponge, bathed in dreamy Malibu and lime syrup. + Good options on the vegetarian and gluten-free front - Some dishes could be simplified

The Atelier 159–161 Morrison Street, West End See Scottish

Bia Bistrot 19 Colinton Road, Southside (Map 3B: A1, 1) 0131 452 8453, biabistrot.co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon | £9.50 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

Set slightly away from Holy Corner bustle is the charming, purple-fronted Bia Bistrot. Nothing flash here, but this husband and wife team (with helpers) provide honest food and cheerful service to regulars and passing trade. Without pretension, a variety of inventive à la carte dishes and daily specials are on offer at very reasonable prices. Inviting starter combinations encompass lobster bisque and salmon tortellini or a panfried ling fillet served with winter chanterelles. Classic mains include a tender side of Orkney reared sirloin steak, partnered with its little bowl of perfect pepper sauce. There are also some contemporary twists on show here, like Ayrshire pork cheeks with white onion purée or roasted bone marrow with red onion jam and toasted sourdough. Vegetarians are well catered for, with choices including goat’s cheese panacotta with beetroot salad or rich, creamy mushroom and tarragon orzo pasta. Round things off with a delicious locally produced ice-cream and sorbet selection, some homemade shortbread and tablet or aged Mull cheddar and chutney. + It’s the little things, like the glorious homemade wheaten stout bread - Shame about the soggy cabbage side dish

4 Bijou

PHOTO © CAITLIN COOKE

2 Restalrig Road, Leith (Map 5B: C1, off) 0131 538 0664, bijoubistro.co.uk | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Apiary: make a beeline to this converted bank for modern British bistro food 42 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Leith’s charming Bijou is a local bistro everyone would want round their corner: a small, relaxed place serving reliably delicious, creative, and reasonably priced food, ideal for taking a romantic date, friends, family, or just yourself for a once-a-month treat or a Friday winddown after work. Bijou is so understated, you feel like you’ve ‘found’ it – but of course so have many others, so it’s best to book, and probe the cheerful, guiding staff as to what the talented chefs are doing this month. Just one exciting example from its adventurous, seasonal menu: a modest-sounding ‘masterstock – mushroom noodle – spring cabbage’ involves theatrically syringing spirals of delectable wild fungi into hot broth, and adding piles of chopped chilli, spring onion, greens and gorgeously zingy, crisp-skinned salmon. Each ingredient tastes superb on its own, but more marvellous together, in a trend repeated in other dishes: a sublimely cooked herbrolled cannon of lamb, pear pomme, spinach and Madeira jus and comforting ‘crumble of the day’ (strawberry and balsamic). Bijou surprises and delights, and gets pretty much everything right. Definitely worth the detour. + There’s something special going on here - You’ll probably be disappointed if you turn up without booking

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

In association with

Bisque Bar & Brasserie Bruntsfield Hotel, 69 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: B3, 26) 0131 622 8163, bisquebrasserie.com | £14 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

It may be part of the Bruntsfield Hotel, but the Bisque works hard to present itself as a stand-alone restaurant and more or less succeeds. You don’t have to enter through reception, no one asks for your room number and it appears to be just as popular with locals as hotel guests, especially when the weather’s warm enough to sit outside. The splitlevel brasserie, with its mix of dark woods and ochre walls, lies beyond the bar with French windows onto the terrace. An extensive lunchtime bar menu gives way to a compact, well-considered choice of appetisers, starters and mains for dinner. Fish includes Bisque’s eponymous, rich, creamy shellfish soup, and a meltingly tender salmon fillet in a tarragon sauce with fluffy sauté potatoes. By contrast, the lamb shank with ratatouille and tapenade is somewhat bland and needs a richer, more reduced flavour. While servings are generous it is worth being tempted to at least share the rhubarb crème brûlée made with fruit sourced from the chef’s own garden. + Alfresco dining on the terrace - Slightly timid flavours

Bistro Moderne 15 North West Circus Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 24) 0131 225 4431, bistromoderne.co.uk | £15 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

Mark Greenaway likes to play. Not flippantly. More in the thrilling, palatechallenging, eye-popping manner that has helped his eponymous restaurant on the corner of Queen and North Castle streets stand out in a city flush with fine dining. He also takes on TV with relish, as his appearances on various shows demonstrate. A string of restaurants have come and gone on this site where the New Town meets Stockbridge, but exuberantly confident Greenaway has risen to the challenge with gusto and flair. A cardboard ribbon enclosing the menu describes a bistro as a ‘small restaurant serving moderately priced simple meals in a modest setting’. There is little that’s simple about the grand, Art Deco former bank building, nor the cuisine. Aberdeen Angus carpaccio is spiced up with crisp shallots, cornichons and soused mushrooms, then chilled with a white onion ice-cream. There are nods across the Channel to more old-school bistros with a bourguignon, but here monkish replaces beef. Sunday lunches are more traditional with a chateaubriand for £40. Bistro Moderne is by no means a bistro bargain, but for those seeking a swagger of creativity Greenaway has created a satisfyingly daring modern bistro. + Accessible culinary wizardry - Still pricey for a bistro

Bistro Provence 88 Commercial Street, Leith See French

4 Blackfriars 57–61 Blackfriars Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A3, 19) 0131 558 8684, blackfriarsedinburgh.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £14.50 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

Formerly a slightly eccentric bohemian hangout renowned for its so-so vegetarian menu and diminutive pool cues, this Old Town stalwart has been reincarnated: half-pub, half-bistro, all proper Bo. Genuinely local, genuinely seasonal and genuinely cooked with consummate skill, the options might not be the most abundant, but every course is packed with seriously tempting choices. The

4 HITLIST BISTROS & BRASSERIES 4 Bijou A local bistro everybody would want on their corner – definitely worth a detour to Leith.

4 Blackfriars Food, service and beer all excel in a bistro and bar that buzzes with youthful exuberance.

4 Credo Leith’s newest bistro combines excellent value with kitchen creativity.

4 The Dogs A trusty best friend fetching good, simple, reasonably priced food to make you want to lick your bowls.

4 Earthy Canonmills Flying the flag for local, seasonal and truly delicious food in a down-to-earth environment.

BLACKWOOD’S BY NAME... ...AND BY FLAME Our tasty steaks, meat, fish, poultry and game are cooked on our Josper chargrill. Retaining food’s natural moisture and flavour, adding an authentic caramelised charcoal flavour.

OPEN TO NON-RESIDENTS

4 Edinburgh Larder Bistro A dedicated team works alongside local suppliers to deliver top-notch, inventive and seasonal menus.

4 Galvin Brasserie de Luxe A stylish restaurant with delightful service, offering excellent and authentic French dishes.

4 The Honours Smart, highend brasserie cooking from Martin Wishart, with no stuffiness, just a sense of occasion.

4 Monteiths Cocktails and quality Scottish cooking hidden down a fairylit close.

4 The Royal Dick Bar & Bistro Keenly priced food that’s enhanced by the eccentric charm of its surroundings.

hearty tone is set by steaming hot treacleinfused soda bread, while starters might include the sort of ham hock broth that would warm the cockles of a Connemara crofter or, for the more refined, there’s a delightful cured mackerel salad. Mains are big on game, and slices of tender roe deer loin are crisp on the outside and perfectly pink in the middle, while a generous chunk of cod – steamed and crusted in bacon crumb – tastes unrecognisable to those used to choking down its battered cousins with chippy sauce. With a fine selection of beers from the pub side, which also serves an enticing array of bar snacks, this is a twopart venture that will surely thrive. + Exceptional food in a pleasingly unpretentious setting - Those who have no room for pudding will be missing a treat

Blackwood’s Bar & Grill Nira Caledonia, 10 Gloucester Place, Stockbridge See Scottish

Blackwood’s Bar & Grill 6 Gloucester Place, Edinburgh EH3 6EF Scotland Call +44 131 225 27 20 info@niracaledonia.com

niracaledonia.com The List Eating & Drinking Guide 43

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

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EDINBURGH

Blonde 75 St Leonard’s Street, Southside (Map 3C: E2, 14) 0131 668 2917, blonderestaurant.co.uk | £12.90 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

With pine panelling and furnishings very much to the fore, it’s easy to guess what might have inspired the title of this venue. Allay any fears of encountering overwhelming Ikea, however, as there’s actually a good sense of identity to this friendly and welcoming neighbourhood bistro. From a promising menu, a hearty braised ox-cheek bourguignon truly melts in the mouth, while a warm salad of perfectly done Stornoway black pudding with toasted walnuts comes with a large – perhaps too large – dollop of carrot jam. There’s more sweetness among the savoury in a venison casserole with punchy chocolate, so it’s little surprise that the restaurant really hits its straps with the pudding selection where a white wine poached pear with green apple sorbet and a honey and ginger syrup is a fine note to end on for those with room to spare. + Intriguing combinations - It’s not just the puddings that require a sweet tooth

The Blue Bear 9 Brandon Terrace, New Town See Cafés

Bread Street Brasserie The Point Hotel, 34–36 Bread Street, West End (Map 4: D2, 41) 0131 221 5558, pointhoteledinburgh.co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

It’s a heck of a mouthful. The hotel formerly known simply as The Point, itself the former St Cuthbert’s Co-op building, has been rebranded DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Edinburgh City Centre. Thankfully the hotel’s restaurant has stuck with its much more manageable moniker of Bread Street Brasserie. The building’s top-to-toe facelift has seen the ground-floor dining room transformed, with luxurious towering grey fabric banquettes, studded aqua-hued leather chairs and dark wood partitions, although overly bright lighting spoils the vibe a little. Traditional brasserie favourites are spruced up with some adventurous accompaniments: a deftly pan-seared duck breast is lifted by sweet caramelised plums and an earthy Jerusalem artichoke rosti. Starters are a little less vibrant, while desserts steer through familiar hits – crumble, sticky toffee pudding – with the occasional twist, such as bourbon biscuit tiramisu. For hotel dining, there’s a surprising number of vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options. But perhaps it’s Bread Street’s keenly priced pre-theatre menus that are the biggest draw for nonresidents, as it’s just a five-minute stroll

Forth Floor Brasserie (page 45): one of the best views in the city, with beautiful food to match

to the Lyceum, Usher Hall and Traverse. + So handy for those neighbouring theatres - Can’t quite shake the hotel dining vibe

Café Cassis Salisbury Hotel, Salisbury Road, Southside (Map 3C: D3, 27) 0131 667 8991, cafecassis.co.uk | Closed Mon | £9.50 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Tucked neatly into the bright basement of the Salisbury Hotel, Café Cassis has become a local favourite and increasingly a destination for those seeking relaxed, high quality dining. Chef/owner Denis Guillonneau is no stranger to success, having built a loyal following at the sadly departed Daniel’s. Now he and wife Alison run their own show, doing so with a clear sense of style. There’s nothing fluffy about this menu. No foams, frills or faff in this creative French-Scottish adventure. Core ingredients don’t hide under bushels. When a jus or coulis appears, it’s there to contribute directly to the success of the dish. Firm scallops and crayfish are gratinéed creamily in leek-rich sauce, an enhanced coquilles St Jacques. Escargots, rich with garlic

A fabulous, unique wine bar & restaurant in the heart of Stockbridge, with a tapas style menu inspired by broad world influences, designed for sampling & sharing. ROLLO is all about great tasting food, wonderful wine, fantastic service & an ambiance to match. Come find your vibe at ROLLO !

108 Raeburn Place, Edinburgh EH4 1HH

44 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

0131 332 1232

butter, await the traditionalist seeking this rarity. Daily specials may feature beef cheek or a seared saddle of venison in a red wine, chocolate and cassis jus, the fruit of the wine and cassis balancing the pink meat’s richness with a touch of acidity. Puddings hold their own, including simple wine-poached pears or long-forgotten baked Alaska, so remember to pace yourself. + Inventive daily specials - Setting is less stylish than the food

that all too often makes it a poor man’s cod. Housed in a peculiarly charming three-level room – all painted brickwork, murals and exposed girders – if it can keep its standards up and its prices down, it should soon be firmly among Leith’s top tables. + Food is precise without being pretentious - A palate-cleansing cranberry and apple jelly doesn’t add much to proceedings

David Bann Cafe Hub Castlehill, Royal Mile, Old Town See Cafés

Café Renroc 91 Montgomery Street, New Town See Cafés

The Caley Sample Room 42–58 Angle Park Terrace, West End See Bars & Pubs

4 Credo 46 Queen Charlotte Street, Leith (Map 5A: D2, 29) 0131 629 1411, credorestaurant.co.uk | £11.50 (set lunch) / £11.50 (set dinner)

Even the most stubborn fan of La Mula Obstinata should be placated by its recent transformation into Credo – a venture that has emerged from the blocks with a thoroughbred’s grace. At £15 for three courses at dinner, diners might be forgiven for suspecting their hosts of cutting a few corners, but from the surprise arrival of a potato and leek velouté right through to the shared platter of near-perfect puddings it is clear that good value here does not mean any compromise in quality, and you can see the kitchen staff toiling with almost religious zeal in their semi-monastic niche at the back. Like the puddings, starters are shared endeavours, with all manner of tiny treats, such as whitebait and goat’s cheese croutons, while mains are solid bistro favourites done with aplomb – confit of duck leg arrives with its skin well crisped, while pollack is elevated well above the watery blandness

56–58 St Mary’s Street, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 17) 0131 556 5888, davidbann. com | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Long gone are the days when it was hard for vegetarians to find anything more exciting than a vegetable lasagne on the average restaurant menu, and in fact these days most bistros and even fine-dining restaurants offer a wonderful range of veggie options that put the old faithful to shame. That David Bann’s restaurant is still thriving after over a decade in business then is testament to the popularity of his eclectic cooking, where worldwide flavours meet some classic European dishes. Vegans are spoiled for choice on a menu studded with mushroom and basil ravioli, udon noodle stir-fry and a spicy South Indian pancake with sweet potato and courgettes. Desserts show some flair, with a made-toorder apple, cinnamon and calvados tart being a standout. Stylish aubergine walls, flickering candles and a warm welcome add to the sense that this is one of the better restaurants in the Royal Mile area, whether you’re veggie or not. + Modern vegetarian cooking for all - Menu doesn’t change very often

Diner 7 7 Commercial Street, Leith See North American

4 The Dogs 110 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 87) 0131 220 1208, thedogsonline. co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

The Dogs on its original, first-floor location on Hanover Street has been a

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

In association with

reliable friend to Edinburghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s budget lunchers and diners for half-a-dozen years now. Inside feels like a dogâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s domain: a relaxed living room, adorned with a dĂŠcor of poodles, Scotties, bulldogs and greyhounds, with stone pooches guarding the clubby vestibule. The menuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great British dishes do indeed â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;comfort and exciteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; as billed, whether a small, yapping Scottish smoked trout salad, or a growling devilled ox liver and gravy on toast. Mains and desserts can be equally butch â&#x20AC;&#x201C; think Barnsley chops, braised oxtails, stargazy pie, toffee Eton mess â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or you can even chase a rabbit with black beer sauce. Every dish is cooked with skill and precision, except perhaps the kedgeree, which is disobediently bland. But The Dogs still wins a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;best of breedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; big pink rosette, thanks to its mix of generosity and good, simple food at reasonable prices. So if The Dogs at times runs off the lead or strays, you want to forgive it, staying a Dog-lover, and leaving with your tail wagging. + If you like its style, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the dogâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bolognaise - Front room perkier than the back room

The Dome Grill Room 14 George Street, New Town (Map 1B: A6, 52) 0131 624 8624, thedomeedinburgh.com | ÂŁ22 (lunch) / ÂŁ25 (dinner)

Blessed with marble columns, mosaics, and an apsed south end, there can be few more architecturally elaborate places to eat than the former HQ of the Commercial Bank of Scotland. And it may come as something of a surprise that, although the building seemingly echoes with exclusivity, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s possible for anyone to saunter up the imposing steps, duck under the Corinthian portico, dodge past the ionic columns and enjoy a very reasonably priced pint at the circular bar beneath the eponymous dome. For those wanting to soak up some food with their atmosphere, the Grill Room offers a menu with an oddly international flavour in which bistro classics such as confit of duck leg do battle with the likes of vegetable baltis. Although most dishes are done with competence rather than any real sign of creativity, choices such as the Buccleuch beef sirloin should not disappoint. + Perfect for fostering delusions of grandeur - Patrolled by a slightly overzealous army of staff

4 Earthy Canonmills 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 Canonmills Bridge, Stockbridge (Map 1B: A1, 3) 0131 556 9696, earthy. co.uk | ÂŁ10 (lunch) / ÂŁ15 (dinner)

This one-stop organic, local, ethical and seasonal sourcing champion has added to its daytime line in breakfast, brunch, lunch and takeaway fare. In the cosy, unassuming barn that is Earthy, their new caring, sharing evening experience offers bites and main dishes which are designed to be enjoyed with tablemates. Sip blood orange and mint table water offered as a refreshing welcome while tearing and dipping freshly baked wholemeal yoghurt flatbread into aromatic dukkah-crusted labneh with smoked chilli oil. There are wafer-thin slices of juniper, rosemary and orange-cured East Lothian venison, and pleasing polenta is served with grilled red onion, squash, halloumi, coriander pesto and Phantassie Farm peashoots. Cute as a button desserts look as pretty as they are tasty. Built to make you go â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;awâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, the buildersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; tea ice-cream comes in a dainty cup with a teabag-shaped biccie complete with string. Delicious green cardamom and pecan brioche bread and butter pudding arrives with a miniature jug of runny cream and pot of syrup. In every

respect, keep this freshness coming. + Good value, great tastes - Be prepared for a delay between courses

4 Edinburgh Larder Bistro

:+,6., 52206 WHISKY BAR OF THE YEAR SLTN AWARDS 2013

1a Alva Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 14) 0131 225 4599, edinburghlarder.co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon | ÂŁ12 (set lunch) / ÂŁ15 (set dinner)

Since opening in 2012, the folk behind Edinburgh Larder have upheld their original ethos of showcasing the best in-season produce Scotland has to offer while supporting local suppliers, and have gone from strength to strength. Step into the basement space to a friendly, relaxed welcome. Their forte lies in the understated: a stripped-back space like a spacious log cabin, allowing the main focus â&#x20AC;&#x201C; exceptional food â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to shine. And details count. Wares from the on-site artisan bakery (open Tue-Sat 11amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;5pm) are sold at the entrance and found in the bistroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bread of the day. Goods from a weekly shopping trip to the nearby farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; market are transformed into the Saturday daily special â&#x20AC;&#x201C; youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll struggle to get much fresher than that. Even drinks recommendations are seasonal, including the homemade soda. Highlights from a constantly updated menu include hotsmoked salmon and horseradish patĂŠ on walnut bread, or potted crab with mixed pickles and leaves. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also the standout plate of roasted duck leg with caramelised onion, broccoli and hogweed mash. And oh, the puds. The marmalade parfait with hazelnut crumble and vanilla ice-cream is a beauty. Delicious and faultless. Well done. + Wondrous grub from folk who care - Pity the bread is not complimentary

Bar â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Restaurant â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Bistro â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Whisky shop -Fresh local Scottish food served all day -Extensive Wine, Local Beers, Cocktail & Whisky List -Ardbeg Embassy status -Daily Whisky Tastings and Events Whis Buy and ky, Gifts WHISKI Rooms Ham 4-7 North Bank Street (the Mound), onlin pers w Edinburgh, EH1 2LP e hisk isho : p.com Reservations: 0131-225-7224 Book Online: www.whiskirooms.com Follow us on twitter @whiskirooms | @whiskishop Join us on facebook whiskirooms | whiskishop

The Espy 62â&#x20AC;&#x201C;64 Bath Street, Portobello, Portobello See Bars & Pubs

Field 41 West Nicolson Street, Southside See Scottish

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First Coast 97â&#x20AC;&#x201C;101 Dalry Road, West End (Map 4: A4, 71) 0131 313 4404, first-coast.co.uk | Closed Sun | ÂŁ12.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ17.50 (dinner)

It may be located on one of Edinburghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s less obviously charming thoroughfares, but the team at First Coast has managed to carve out, and sustain, an impressive stronghold of seasonal cookery for over a decade on Dalry Road, much to the delight of Gorgie residents and passersby alike. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tough to choose between the Ă la carte menu and the excellent value of the lunch/early-evening alternative â&#x20AC;&#x201C; both boast a relatively short but inventive range of options, which show off an imaginative sourcing policy that greatly adds to the overall appeal. Not many restaurants can boast a selection of dishes that might include whole battered gurnard, pigeon terrine and ling with cockles, yet such dishes are put together with skill and in a refreshingly unpretentious manner â&#x20AC;&#x201C; rather like the seascapes that adorn the buildingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hefty stone walls. + Combines value with a sense of adventure - Slightly tired looking chairs and tables

From the everyday, to the exquisite (but always out of the ordinary) selection of beers in Scotland.

Forth Floor Brasserie Harvey Nichols, 30â&#x20AC;&#x201C;34 St Andrew Square, New Town (Map 1B: B5, 54) 0131 524 8350, harveynichols.com | ÂŁ17 (set lunch) / ÂŁ17 (dinner)

The Forth Floor has arguably one of the best rooftop dining venues in the city, with amazing wraparound views. Daytime sees many ladies lunching with

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The List Eating & Drinking Guide 45

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

list.co.uk

EDINBURGH

some quiet business meetings going on elsewhere. By evening, the lights are dimmed for romantic dinner dates and gatherings of friends or colleagues for winding-down drinks. From the in-house seafood bar, west coast rock oysters sitting on a bed of crunchy salt are served with cut lemon and a dish of vinegar and shallot. Stay à la carte for mains including roast salted pollack with rustic chickpea and chorizo ragû. A delicate mango cheesecake with poached mango and praline tuile is a winning finish. Othrwise, the inviting prix fixe menu offers a grilled portobello mushroom and richly smoked paprika aioli on a toasted muffin, followed by a generously sized haddock fishcake, buttered spinach and parsley beurre blanc. Round things off with an icecream or sorbet (kiwi is a winner) trio from Stewart Tower Dairy. A touch of class. + Stunning menus served morning to night - Slightly pricey sides

4 Galvin Brasserie de Luxe Caledonian Hotel, Princes Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 21) 0131 222 8988, galvinbrasseriedeluxe.com | £16.50 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

Galvin Brasserie de Luxe is a bit unEdinburgh. But in a good way. Although in the city’s West End, the street outside could easily be mistaken for London, with an interior interpreting chic Gallic style. As would be expected in such five-star surroundings, they excel in attention to detail, both in the service and the food, while keeping things pretty low-key and relaxed. Choices comprise a fresh crustacean bar, à la carte and prix fixe menus. Begin with a cleansing salad

of endive, Roquefort and caramelised walnuts or maybe the divine white onion and cider velouté. Steak tartare, a charcuterie board, Burgundy snails and much more beckons. Dishes look great and could involve a mini performance: the sumptuous baba au rhum is sliced in front of you, the rum then decanted into the newly formed opening. Large glasses of red wine arrive in a smart carafe. Half is poured by the waiter, the rest appropriately left to breathe for a bit. All a refreshingly modern take on good old-fashioned service and some classic French dishes. + A super-slick operation that welcomes all ages - Though perhaps one not entirely for the hipsters

Hadrian’s Brasserie The Balmoral, 1 Princes Street, City Centre (Map 2A: D1, 2) 0131 557 5000, hadriansbrasserie.com | £16.50 (set lunch) / £16.50 (set dinner)

Housed in one of the capital’s most impressive edifices, the Balmoral Hotel, Hadrian’s attracts both hotel residents and well-heeled Edinburghers. The attentive but engaging service helps to create a pleasantly relaxed atmosphere, although the stately surrounds are a little at odds with the prints of flamenco dancers that fandango their way round the walls. There’s an impressive loyalty to Scottish produce on the menu, with the slow-cooked haunch of venison bearing eloquent testament to why kitchen supremo Brian Grigor was anointed Scotland’s inaugural game chef of the year. There’s occasionally an uneven quality to the delivery – a dressed crab might perhaps benefit from a little less garnish and the Blairgowrie

ribeye, while cooked as requested, is inexplicably unseasoned – but in general there is also much to comfort and applaud in dishes such as a bourbon vanilla crème brûlée which fulfils its claims to be a classic. + Choose wisely and you’ll be rewarded - Slightly incongruous décor

Hellers Kitchen 15 Salisbury Place, Southside (Map 3C: D3, 29) 0131 667 4654, hellerskitchen. co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Hellers Kitchen is a heavenly allrounder. Feeding Southside locals morning to night, it transitions smoothly from full breakfasts and Americanstyle pancakes as the sun rises, to stone-baked pizzas and sandwiches on homemade sourdough at lunch and finally to grown-up bistro as night falls. By day, the narrow split-level room is flooded with light. Vintage continental café posters line one side of the neutraltoned space, rotating exhibitions of local photographers along the other, with a rich burgundy feature wall bringing a flash of warmth. And the food is just as appealing. Plump fillets of grilled mackerel, skin beautifully crisped, are raised to higher ground by pairing with delicate pieces of roasted rhubarb and a lively blood orange salad. Braised shin of beef in a luxuriant pool of red-wine jus is devilishly tender, dished up with market-fresh carrots and kale, and a circle of bubble and squeak. Topping things off, blood orange panacotta is a wobbly citrus-infused cracker. This is the kind of neighbourhood bistro that most suburbs would love to call their own. + Excellent seasonally changing specials - A tad too bright at night – affogatodimmer please

Henderson’s Bistro 25 Thistle Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 84) 0131 225 2605, hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Hendersons, the UK’s second oldest veggie restaurant after Cranks of Carnaby Street, is a lesson in longevity. This Edinburgh institution espouses a philosophy of ‘Eat Better, Live Better’, and the meat-free ethics of Plato, da Vinci, Gandhi and Einstein. Hendersons’ basement salad-table canteen on Hanover Street was founded over 50 years ago by veg pioneers Janet and Mac Henderson – a Scottish rugby cap who lived to 101. Their son Oliver and grandson Barry now run the family empire, which has since sprouted a deli, bakery, and bistro round the corner on Thistle Street. The bistro’s tempting, seasonal dishes are inspired by the land of 70 per cent of the world’s vegetarians: India. Spicy curries are joined by Mexican wraps, Greek mezze and Hungarian goulash. Some dishes shine in flavour, like veggie haggis nachos with salsa, sour cream, jalapeños and melted goat’s cheese, or fresh juices like melon, mint and pineapple, but others veer towards stereotypical stodge: a Thai nut burger of cashew nuts, smoked tofu, lime, lemongrass, coconut and garlic mayo won’t convert meat-eaters to the ancient cause of ‘ahimsa’ (‘non-violence’). But perhaps their salads could help change you and the world for the better. + The feel-good factor - Bit more oomph in flavour needed at times

4 The Honours 58a North Castle Street, New Town (Map 1A: B4, 42) 0131 220 2513, thehonours. co.uk | £18.50 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

Martin Wishart is a local celebrity in the Edinburgh restaurant scene. His eponymous Leith restaurant won him a Michelin star – the first in Edinburgh to do so – and his cook school has built up an excellent reputation. So this, his ‘less formal’ New Town bistro, comes with built-in cachet. Despite its potentially intimidating credentials though, it’s a very welcoming, unstuffy place. There’s a sense that you’re in safe hands from the get-go; staff clearly know their confit d’oignons, but thankfully are more interested in creating a calm backdrop than a stiff atmosphere. The cuisine aspires to ‘an interpretation of the Parisian classic’ and – with the exception of some slightly cotton-woolly pommes frîtes – generally smashes expectations, creating sublime flavour combinations with updates of classic dishes and unusual cuts of meat. Veal sweetbreads, ox cheeks and crisp pig’s head will keep the adventurous omnivore happy, while soy and garlic spatchcock quail with beetroot purée, langoustine velouté, or Loch Fyne crab with white radish and espelette pepper make crème de la crème showcases for Scottish ingredients. + Luxuriant but unpretentious brasserie dining - Vegetarian options are delicious, but limited

Hotel du Vin Bistro 11 Bristo Place, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 50) 0131 247 4900, hotelduvin.com/ locations/edinburgh/bistro | £24 (lunch) / £24 (dinner)

They care about ‘the finer things in life’ at this French bistro, hidden from the street in an Old Town hotel – a smart conversion of a former asylum. Wine lovers find over 500 bottles on offer; whisky connoisseurs can sample 170 single malts in the Whisky Snug and cigar fans can puff away in a heated Cigar Bothy. An equally epicurean approach applies to their rich, daintily portioned food, which pairs up French cooking and Scottish produce in lavish combinations like steak and snail pie, using locally-sourced shin of beef, or pan-roasted scallops with pea purée and pancetta jam. For all their aspirations to opulence and perfection, mistakes do occasionally creep in, but tend to be fixed quickly by warm, helpful staff. A real fire and candlesticks, plus wooden beams and 1930s French posters on stone walls make for a cosier-than-average hotel restaurant, one of 14 in the Hotel Du Vin chain. Outdoor tables fill up fast on sunny days during the Fringe, while on a damp winter day, it feels especially indulgent for a four-course Sunday brunch – particularly with Bloody Marys, kirs or bellinis on the side. + Rich sauces and unhurried digestifs, à la française - Never enough outdoor tables when you want them

Howies at Waterloo 29 Waterloo Place, New Town See Scottish

Iglu 2b Jamaica Street, New Town See Scottish

Indigo Yard Henricks Bar & Bistro 1 Barclay Place, Southside See Bars & Pubs

7 Charlotte Lane, West End See Bars & Pubs

Iris Hewat’s Restaurant 19–21b Causewayside, Southside See Scottish 46 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

47a Thistle Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 82) 0131 220 2111, irisedinburgh. co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £13.95 (set

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

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Blackfriars (page 43): part pub, part bistro, this Old Town newcomer is all good lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Katie’s Diner

With its low-key lighting and laid-back service, Iris has an atmosphere that is both cosy and casual, while the regularly changing menus are as enticing as the venue’s interior. The set lunch option, which offers two courses for £13.95, is very good value and can be raided until 6.30 every evening, while the à la carte alternative offers a slightly broader range of more elaborate dishes and is backed up by a list of specials which changes by the day. For starters, three seared scallops melt in the mouth with a velvety smoothness and sticky pork belly is done with assurance, although both might benefit from a little more zing. In terms of mains, presentation is especially impressive and, although a slightly cloying beurre blanc sauce somewhat overwhelms the fillet of cod, the venison loin arrives gratifyingly pink, as requested, and is very hard to fault. + Impressive variety on offer - Some dishes are overly rich

12 Barclay Terrace, Southside See North American

Itchycoo Bar & Kitchen 80 High Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A3, 7) 0131 473 6517, radissonblu.co.uk | £20 (lunch) / £24 (dinner)

Itchycoo, an international hotel restaurant in the Royal Mile’s Radisson Blu Hotel, feels space-age for the Old Town, with a shiny, glass eatery and bar in which you’d expect to see the Jetsons nibbling a bowl of peanuts. The menu is futuristic too, analysing the calorific content of your chicken, avocado and mango salad starter, or main of saffron and fennel risotto, into micro-measurements of protein, carbs and fat. Tourist classics like chicken Balmoral, battered haddock and Aberdeen Angus steaks abound, while in another modern twist, the corncrusted but rubbery North Sea squid is marked ‘as seen on Facebook’. A word of warning: the curiously described ‘trio of hotness’ pudding includes a sponge obviously encrusted in walnuts, despite the staff avowing its nut-free status. + The gloriously absurd menu - Cavalier attitude to customers’ nut allergies

Michael Neave Kitchen & Whisky Bar 21 Old Fishmarket Close, Old Town See Scottish

Kyloe Restaurant & Grill The Rutland Hotel, 1–3 Rutland Street, West End See Scottish

4 Monteiths

Laila’s Bistro

There is no shortage of tacky tourist honeypots on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, but hidden among the overpriced eateries and giftshops selling Lady Di tartan and kilt towels, this bar/restaurant is a pleasant surprise. It’s down a close lit by candles and fairy lights, and doubles as a smart drinking hole (there’s tartan in the bar, but it’s tastefully muted) and laidback restaurant. The standard of cooking is high: smoked Jerusalem artichokes come with perfectly grilled, soft leeks in a blue cheese and garlic cream, and the runny yolk on the Arbroath smokie risotto is just right. They do simpler bar meals at lunchtime, including fish and chips, haggis or burgers, and filling Sunday roasts at weekends. Desserts are worth leaving space for – especially the bittersweet rhubarb sous-vide with Turkish delight, meringues and icecream, or homemade oatcakes with local cheese and quince. The place doesn’t take itself too seriously: expect Motown and soul classics on the stereo, and cocktail drinkers sipping an espresso martini or ‘Edinburgh breakfast’ (with lime marmalade, lapsang souchong and whisky) on the heated smoking terrace, fitted with umbrellas for the Scottish drizzle. + Scotland’s larder gets a thorough rummage, with interesting combinations - Can get packed during Festival peak times

63 Cockburn Street, Old Town See Round the World

Malmaison Brasserie 1 Tower Place, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 14) 0131 468 5000, malmaison.com | £23 (lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Sitting on the dock of the bay (well, OK, firth), the baronial bulk of the Malmaison building and its landmark clock tower have been a focal point of the Leith landscape since the late 19th century, serving as seamen’s mission and notorious haunt of ladies of the night in days gone by. The boutique hotelthe stand’s brasserie notches up a key landmark itself in 2014, as it celebrates its 20th birthday. Eschewing the bland design ethos of many hotel restaurants, Malmaison injects a little more character, with blood-red checkerboard walls, dark wood panelling, rich leather seating and sculptural wrought-iron candleholders conjuring up a classic bistro feel. On the plate, the humble fishcake gets a smart makeover, studded with peas and with smoked haddock adding extra depth. There are the obligatory steaks from the grill and burgers aplenty too, including a decadent foie gras variation. Sticky caramelised pear tops a fine tarte tatin, teamed nicely with calvados mascarpone. Service is charming yet unobtrusive and, sunshine on Leith permitting, the dockside outdoor terrace offers a chance to further navigate the globetrotting, affordable wine list. + Surviving 20 years in the restaurant game is no mean feat - The wind off the Forth restricts outdoor dining aspirations

57–61 High Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A2, 5) 0131 557 0330, monteithsrestaurant. co.uk | £27 (lunch) / £32 (dinner)

Montpeliers Bar and Brasserie 159–161 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: A4, 32) 0131 229 3115, montpeliersedinburgh.co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Montpeliers has been feeding and watering the fine folk of Bruntsfield for

Bistro & Bakery 0131 225 4599 @ED_LARDERBISTRO

BISTRO@EDINBURGHLARDER.CO.UK 1A ALVA ST, EDINBURGH, EH2 4PH Cafe 0131 556 6922 @EDIN_LARDER INFO@EDINBURGHLARDER.CO.UK 15 BLACKFRIARS ST, EDINBURGH, EH1 1NB EDINBURGHLARDER WWW.EDINBURGHLARDER.CO.UK

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 47

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

list.co.uk

EDINBURGH

over 20 years and judging by a buzzing dining room thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s packed all week round, they must still be doing something right. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to argue with breakfast favourites and fine bistro staples in smartcasual surrounds, with wallet-friendly deals (two courses for ten quid, anyone?) thrown in for good measure. The long room splits down the middle: bar to the right, tightly packed restaurant to the left, with its wood panelling and striking Florence Broadhurst Japanese floral wallpaper. Smoked haddock, leek and potato combine in a creamy comforting Cullen skink, while a nicely charred burger â&#x20AC;&#x201C; topped with crisped bacon, Isle of Mull cheddar and a sprightly tomato chutney â&#x20AC;&#x201C; is a definite crowd-pleaser. Inverurie lamb rump is a standout, cooked exactly as ordered, with a glossy red wine jus, crunchy green beans and buttery fondant potato. Who says you have to reinvent the wheel to be keep the punters coming? + A day menu that runs right through to 5pm - Not the place for a quiet romantic tryst

bangers of the day with 16 types of mash (including caramelised leek and bacon, and chipotle and cheese). You can even pick your gravy. Perhaps itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a big burger that tickles your fancy â&#x20AC;&#x201C; loads of choice here too, coming complete with handcut chips, coleslaw and salad. Macaroni cheese, a selection of pies and stews or a hearty fish and chips are all available. Wash it all down with a cup of tea and try not to leave without sampling a shake â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Reeseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cups is tremendous. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not always about the fad du jour; sometimes you just need a bit of stodge and comfort. Mums, we salute you. + Dependable nosh, delightful service - Can someone turn up the lights a bit, please?

Mums Great Comfort Food

North Bridge Brasserie stands grandly like a great Victorian oak and marble library on the link between Edinburghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Old Town and New, in the old home of the Scotsman newspaper, once the beating heart of a nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s conversation. That pulse has stopped here, with the clack of typewriters replaced by the chink of cocktail glasses and silver cutlery, but Scotland remains alive on the brasserieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seasonal menu. Fittingly for an architectural gem, platefuls are structural too. Haggis towers are buttressed in deep-fried potato crĂŞpes, and punctuated by dashes of tattie and smoky whisky jelly, on a comma of silky turnip purĂŠe. A line of chicory marmalade, salty Black Isle pork belly, and beefy, iony Orkney scallop stops on an ellipsis of mandarin purĂŠe. The Rossshire mutton is a non-story compared to the sensational zingy, pink venison, tricolore of sweet, fruity beetroot, curly kale and lapsang souchong infused semi-dried grapes. The nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only scoop is toasted marshmallow ice-cream, revealed by an investigation into hot, dark chocolate mousse and floating â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;milk rocksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. And, like any good scoop, it will have you talking about it for days. + Highlights the best of Scotlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s larder - Lacklustre mutton dish

4a Forrest Road, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 51) 0131 260 9806, mumsgreatcomfortfood.co.uk | ÂŁ6 (set lunch) / ÂŁ12 (dinner)

Good old Mums. Still alive and kicking and doing what they do well, a line in old-school basics for all ages. With super-cheery staff enhancing the pickme-up feel of the place, start the day with a classic brekkie option, served until noon. Bacon and sausage rolls, pancake stacks and eggs Benedict all feature. At lunchtime, do a bit of mix and match from an ever-changing list of Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Haganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 100 per cent pure meat or veggie

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Museum Brasserie National Museum of Scotland, Chambers Street, Old Town See Arts Venues

North Bridge Brasserie 20 North Bridge, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 11) 0131 622 2900, northbridgebrasserie. com | ÂŁ14.50 (set lunch) / ÂŁ35 (dinner)

No. 11 Brunswick Street 11 Brunswick Street (Map 5B: A5, 22) 0131 557 6910, 11brunswickst.co.uk | ÂŁ12 (lunch) / ÂŁ24 (dinner)

A boutique hotel which occupies the Georgian former premises of the Black Watchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s regimental club, No. 11 may not leap out at passers-by. However, although a large chunk of the brasserieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 26 covers is often accounted for by the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guests, curious Edinburgh natives are also given a welcome reception â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for lunch, dinner or even afternoon tea. Those that do venture between the imposing pillars will be rewarded with a menu that rises consistently above usual hotel standards, with highlights of the evening options including Isle of Gigha organic halibut gravadlax; panroasted guinea fowl supreme on a bed of purĂŠed roast celeriac; and a cheese board sourced from the mixture of Jerseys and Friesians that make up Banchoryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tiny Devenick Dairy herd. All these combine to reflect some admirable attention to sourcing as well as some impressive kitchen prowess â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a far cry, one suspects, from the days of bully beef and biscuits brown. + Consistently good, seasonally changing food - Rather regimented dining room

Olive Branch Bistro 91 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 18) 0131 557 8589, theolivebranchscotland.co.uk | ÂŁ12.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ18 (dinner)

Laid-back and friendly, this cosy local hangout remains a favourite after a decade in existence, and for the last three years, under the stewardship of the Young family, it has shown an impressive dedication to Mediterranean-influenced food. While the evening and lunch menus have a decidedly southern European flavour â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with polentas, Marsalas and chorizos to the fore â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the OB by no means ignores local ingredients: homecured lamb bacon adds a pleasing punch to the bruschetta starter, while slow-cooked venison gives a depth of flavour to the ragĂť with gnocchi. These touches are in keeping with the decidedly Caledonian vista offered by the vast windows that look out on to bustling Broughton Street, as is the brunch menu, with its sprinkling of Scottish staples such as tattie scones and black pudding. Meanwhile those happy to watch the world go by for a few extra moments should give in to the temptation of a burger â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which may take 20 minutes to prepare, but is well worth the wait. + The view and the vibe mean you could happily eat here solo - Some dishes have more weight than flavour

One Square 1 Festival Square, West End (Map 4: C2, 37) 0131 221 6422, onesquareedinburgh. co.uk | ÂŁ16 (set lunch) / ÂŁ25 (dinner)

Edinburghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s city-centre Sheraton sure ticks the moneyed touristâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s boxes, overlooking Festival Square and on up to Edinburgh Castle, and One Square has the best seat in the house. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s much to commend the restaurant for locals too: lovely, kind staff, an elegant, spacious dining room, and a tantalising though pricey Scottish menu. A starter of potted St Brides duck with plum and damson chutney and rye bread might lead to beef cheek slowly braised for 13 hours in Ailsa Ale, spelt and winter roots. For pudding how about cranachan, raspberry jam ice-cream, porridge oat ice-cream, Irn Bru and honey sorbet, and Drambuie syrup? Crivvens, help ma Boab! These artful dishes are trying hard to give a taste of Scotland, with an inventiveness that divides opinion. Isle of Mull cheddar foam? Jings! Strathdon Blue marmalade toasts? Hoots! And while a few of these combinations just miss the mark, the sense of ambition says much about the effort being made to square the circle of local dining in an international hotel. + Bravely trying to do something more than the average Scottish hotel restaurant - Flavours lack some of the promised oomph

The Outsider 15/16 George IV Bridge, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 41) 0131 226 3131 | ÂŁ13 (lunch) / ÂŁ22 (dinner)

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worth grabbing a table here for the view from those oversized rear windows alone â&#x20AC;&#x201C; watching the sun dip behind the rooftops of the Grassmarket, the hulking mass of Edinburgh Castle looming in the background, is a magical sight, whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a wide-eyed tourist or a hardened local. Plying its trade in the heart of the Old Town for more than a decade, The Outsider still has a buzz about it, with clatter and chatter bouncing around its mezzanine level and high-ceilinged main room complete with cute, corner cubbyhole table. Good Scottish produce infuses a menu with built-in comfort factor: a fresh-as-a-daisy trout salad, tender rabbit leg on barley risotto, or falloff-the bone duck confit with a tomatoey

cassoulet, dotted with spicy merguez sausage. Plum and limoncello tart is a real home-style crowd pleaser, and a chocolate pĂ˘vĂŠ with hints of cardamom is an indulgent treat that presses all the right buttons. + Feel like king of the castle with that killer view - Well-meaning service can stray at peak times

Peterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Yard Stockbridge 3 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge See CafĂŠs

Porto & Fi 47 Newhaven Main Street, Leith See CafĂŠs

Rickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 55a Frederick Street, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 73) 0131 622 7800, ricksedinburgh. co.uk | ÂŁ10 (set lunch) / ÂŁ20 (dinner)

For a place labelled hip and trendy, Rickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attracts a surprisingly broad range of types. While the popular boutique hotel and the buzzing bar live up to that reputation, the restaurant attracts shoppers, office workers, tourists and locals of all ages. The main attractions are the tempting fixed price deals â&#x20AC;&#x201C; although Ă la carte is also a draw â&#x20AC;&#x201C; plus a comprehensive wine list featuring a lengthy section by the glass, and friendly staff. Several steps below street level, the cleverly laid out area is split into three sections, with the atmosphere enhanced by leather banquettes and low lighting. In keeping with the surroundings, the menu is stylish and with some substance. Starters could include a chicken and chorizo terrine which is a delicious combination of textures and flavours. For mains, confit pork belly is so succulent that it almost falls apart to the touch and is accompanied by boulangĂ¨re potatoes and braised cabbage, with a red wine jus enhancing the overall flavour of a well-balanced dish. Caramelised lemon tart served with fresh berries and clotted cream rounds off the meal nicely. + Good bistro food in stylish surroundings - Some of the wines are expensive

Rocca@Holyrood Macdonald Holyrood Hotel, 81 Holyrood Road, Old Town See Italian

The Roaminâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Nose 14 Eyre Place, New Town See CafĂŠs

Rollo 108 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge See Bars & Pubs

4 The Royal Dick Bar & Bistro 1 Summerhall, Southside (Map 3C: D2, 18) 0845 874 3000, summerhall.co.uk/ bar-cafe | ÂŁ9.50 (set lunch) / ÂŁ9.50 (dinner)

The erstwhile home of Edinburgh Universityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s veterinary college still retains more than mere vestiges of Victoriana â&#x20AC;&#x201C; in the main room at the bar, a selection of African masks gurn across at a bizarre collection of headwear that includes a pith helmet, while glassfronted cabinets contain a jumble of beakers and bones. Part voodoo temple, part school science lab, part Hoxton speakeasy, there canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be many stranger places to sit back with a local microbrewed beer. As for the food, the set menu features some decidedly daintily sized portions, though both starters and mains are cooked with skill and presented with stylistic aplomb â&#x20AC;&#x201C; honey roasted pork fillet wrapped in Parma ham with pak choi and chorizo fried butter beans is a typical example. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more,

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transforming good quality local produce into top-notch dishes. Starters could feature Orr’s take on a Scottish classic – venison haggis wrapped in pancetta, a smear of turnip and fondant potato. For mains, a succulent duo of pork fillet and cheek, served with mustard mash and vegetables, is further evidence of the chef’s skill. And desserts that include a deliciously gooey hot chocolate fondant offer yet more evidence that Suburban Pantry is worth a trip across the city. + Clever use of good local produce - There’s not much else to do nearby

Sylvesters 55–57 West Nicolson Street, Southside (Map 2A: D5, 58) 0131 662 4493, sylvestersedinburgh.co.uk | £11.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Bistro Moderne (page 43): Mark Greenaway’s informal bistro serves up playful food in grand surroundings

with three courses for a mere £13.50, any grumbling should be left at the door. Although the whole set-up might make you suspect that the bar staff are putting more than mere perspiration into making your cocktail, by the time you’ve drained the last drops you’ll probably be perfectly happy to find yourself sprouting feathers or claws. + Original food in original surroundings - You might need a map and compass to find the front door

Scran & Scallie 1 Comely Bank Road, Stockbridge See Bars & Pubs

The Shore Bar & Restaurant 3 The Shore, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 16) 0131 553 5080, fishersbistros.co.uk | £13 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

While Leith’s waterfront might have experienced all manner of change since this bar and restaurant opened 30 years ago, The Shore has managed to remain among the area’s most popular haunts. Punters are drawn to the ever-changing but consistently rewarding menu and the venue’s classy and cosy surrounds provide a welcome refuge from any chill coastal breeze that might be sweeping in from the Firth. True to its portside location, seafood features highly – red mullet tempura provides an interesting twist on a Caledonian classic, while a generous helping of five perfectly seared queen scallops, sharing their shells with chunks of black pudding and roast tomatoes, proves an even more exceptional starter. Mains, such as the pressed shin of beef, served with silky mash, bone marrow and kale, show that the kitchen skills are by no means limited to seafood, while those keen to keep up a marine theme won’t be disappointed with a satisfyingly solid hunk of halibut – meaty and crisp, yet far from dry. + Classic cooking in classy surroundings - Puddings fail to make the pantheon

The Skylark 241–243 High Street, Portobello (Map 5A: E1, off) 0131 629 3037,

theskylarkportobello.com | Closed Tue | £9 (lunch) / £9 (dinner)

Among Porty locals, The Skylark’s become a much-loved hangout on the High Street since its owners tastefully renovated an old-man boozer in 2012, and possibly partly why the Foresters Guild pub has just had a trendy makeover along the road. Named after a 1950s pleasure cruiser, The Skylark is many things, depending on the time of day. It’s a café packed with buggies during the day, when parents take advantage of bottle warming / toy lending / free nappy services on offer. By night, it’s an organic wine and fancy beer bar (Williams Bros, Top Out, Black Isle are all stocked) that hosts quiz nights, exhibition openings, film screenings and clothes swaps (check their Facebook page for events, daily cake updates and food offers). In between, they serve bistro meals – homemade soups, filled croissants and daily specials including steak baguette with caramelised onions, or salmon quiche and herb salad. The place looks fantastic too – mid-century furniture, reclaimed church pews and exposed bricks and girders get the right mix of sophisticated and comfortable. For nonlocals, a slice of Skylark’s peanut butter blondie is as good a reason as any to get the 26 bus, and be beside the seaside. + Exactly what a neighbourhood bistro should be - Slightly awkward shift from daytime café to evening candlelit bistro

Smoke Stack 53–55 Broughton Street, New Town See North American

Spoon 6a Nicolson Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D4, 72) 0131 623 1752, spoonedinburgh. co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Plenty of restaurants bandy about their seasonal produce credentials, but not all take it as seriously as Spoon, where what’s on the plate takes its cue from what’s in season locally. It’s a mix and match kind of place: casual café by day, unpretentious restaurant by night, with a

retro wonkiness to the décor and big wide windows, perfect for people-watching. Traditional breakfast staples – butties and mixed grills – give way to more adventurous daytime and evening dining. Salads are inventive and generous, like chicken and chicory with pea shoots and the crunch of apple and celery, while mains are rustic: a hefty roast lamb shank on a creamy puff of parsnip mash, or pan-fried duck breast (slightly overdone) counterbalanced by an earthy beetroot and horseradish barley risotto. Cakes, bakes and desserts – such as zingy lemon and ginger cheesecake, crowned with crumbled gingernut biscuits – hit the sweet spot. And all this at prices that mean you don’t have to be born with a silver spoon in your mouth to afford to eat here. + Super for large groups and Festival Theatre-goers - Décor in need of a little TLC

Stac Polly Bistro 38 St Mary’s Street, Old Town See Scottish

Sylvesters opened in May 2013 on the corner of West Nicolson Street, and is still establishing itself as a popular local bistro. It sits within the catchment of Edinburgh University students drifting with paying parents, theatregoers spilling from the Festival Theatre, and tourists wandering dazed from the Chambers Street museum. Sylvesters is, as billed, ‘friendly and relaxed’, whitewashed outside, and beige walls inside, with an appetising lunch and pre-theatre set menu featuring the likes of arty gin-cured salmon, a round tower of mash and frilly plaice cooked in red wine, or a tumbler of slanty lemon posset polluted by popping candy. Platefuls are geometric, in a sort of cooking by shapes: spherical haggis bonbons sit like nuclear reactors atop a smear of whisky marmalade, while a sour beef rib ‘Jacob’s ladder’ arrives beside upright carrot cones and a cube of potato Dauphinoise. However, there’s a sense that the sourcing and quality of ingredients are a lower priority than the appearance of dishes, which is to the detriment of some potentially innovative cooking. + Staff are nice and keen - The Jacob’s ladder

Tempus 25 George Street, New Town (Map 1B: A6, 53) 0131 240 7197, tempusedinburgh.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Fittingly for a bar and restaurant within George Street’s George Hotel, Tempus opens up, beyond its swanky, shiny bar, into a clubby, grand dining room, adorned with chandeliers, buttoned leather, art deco paintings, and penguinattired waiters. It pitches itself as posh nosh for dressed-up dos, weddings and hen parties, and the food is, as the menu bills, fresh, local and uncomplicated. An elegant starter of haddock carpaccio, flaked Arbroath smokie and kiln-roasted

Stac Polly Brasserie, Wine and Gin Bar 29–33 Dublin Street, New Town See Bars & Pubs

The Suburban Pantry 12 Hillhouse Road, Blackhall (Map 4: A1, off) 0131 332 2289, thesuburbanpantry. co.uk | £11.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Being off the beaten track in Edinburgh can be a double-edged sword. While it’s great for building a community-based focal point, it can be difficult to attract custom from other parts of the city. That’s a dilemma faced by Suburban Pantry. Given its relatively anonymous location among shops on a main road heading west, it’s little surprise that it draws heavily on regulars. The former wine shop is now a bright space with neutral décor and light wood furniture. Breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea account for much of the business, but it’s in the evening that chef/coowner Martin Orr exhibits his talents,

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The List Eating & Drinking Guide 49

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salmon is delicate, light and excellent, almost matched by an artfully decorated rectangular plate of warm chocolate fondant with boozy black cherries and mascarpone ice-cream, and a chopping block of quince and cheese (Gubbeen, Drumloch and Dunsyre Blue). Scottish bistro mains of ribeye steak, onion rings and chip-logs, and pan-fried bream fillet, sea aster, crushed potatoes, lemon and herb oil are perhaps less exciting â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with the exception of the sea aster, a delightful discovery. Staff are, as youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d expect from a fancy hotel restaurant, very professional. But thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more formula than love in this cooking â&#x20AC;&#x201C; perhaps symptomatic of a large hotel putting out micro food on a big scale. + The haddock carpaccio is a revelation - The steak could up its game

Three Birds Restaurant

Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner & Outside Catering Open all day from 9am (Sun 10am) Available for larger bookings. 15 Salisbury Place EH9 1SL (close to Queenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hall and the Commonwealth pool)

Tel: 0131 667 4654 info@hellerskitchen.co.uk www.hellerskitchen.co.uk follow us on: facebook twitter

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3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 Viewforth, Bruntsfield, Southside (Map 3A: A3, 30) 0131 229 3252, threebirds.co.uk | ÂŁ9.50 (lunch) / ÂŁ15 (dinner)

The Three Birds, perched near the Meadows, feed many hungry maws in their busy little bistro on Viewforth. This chirpy flock bring forth a magpieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menu of curious, eclectic grubs for gaping diners to swallow, often gathered far from their Bruntsfield nest: kangaroo titaki, Jamaican mutton curry, Sumatran rendang, pistou soup with Toulouse sausage, herby labneh, and even a chilli and lemongrass-crusted tofu â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which sounds like an avian species itself. The Three Birdsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;3bâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; markings are displayed on signature platters, like â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Birds & Beastsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Big Cowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; of 45-day-aged Buccleuch ribeye, or a daily fish special, all shared on trendy chopping blocks with paper pokes of frĂŽtes for dipping into dripping. For pudding, you can peck at scrummy Turkish delight rocky road with Overlangshaw Farmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s peanut butter and strawberry jam ice-cream. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all rather good fun, and Three Birds stands out in this neighbourhood which is strangely lacking in good eating options, even though thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an element of style over substance in some dishes. + The spicy things - Seafood dishes donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t always hit the mark

Tigerlily 125 George Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 49) 0131 225 5005, tigerlilyedinburgh. co.uk | ÂŁ15 (set lunch) / ÂŁ25 (dinner)

Tigerlily pitches to the smart set, those dressing up in tux and Brylcreem, or leopard skins and curls. This glitzy bar and restaurant on George Street, named after a garish, tiger-spotted Asian flower, is where many go to feel or look classy, for hen and office parties, and celebrating success (Krug Rose is only ÂŁ230, for suited city slickers closing a deal). But staff tend all comers wonderfully, handing out a flute of pear cognac cocktail, and sobering water in cut-crystal glasses, in the fancy anteparlour of plump velvet sofas. In the food stakes, most tempting is the good-value â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Dine Outâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; option of two courses for ÂŁ15: a velvety duck liver pĂ˘tĂŠ on slate, or a plate-scraping four-cheese ravioli on giant crockery, then an odd jerked cod on smoked hickory, or an Orkney beef burger. Tigerlily is affordable nouveau riche, for aspirational types, with beating music to feel like youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re going places â&#x20AC;&#x201C; either on to a club, or up the managerial ladder. + The homemade apple sorbet is fabulous - Bit noisy for cosy conversation

Timberyard 10 Lady Lawson Street, West End See Scottish

50 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Toast 146 Marchmont Road, Southside (Map 3C: A3, 33) 0131 446 9873, toastedinburgh.co.uk | ÂŁ17 (lunch) / ÂŁ17 (dinner)

The last outpost on Marchmont Road before it peters out into residential anonymity, Toast has a friendly neighbourhood vibe, thanks to its warmly painted walls and jumble of original artworks. Overall, it concentrates more on comforting rather than challenging food â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the sort of place that should, and does, do a roaring trade for those wanting to venture out for breakfast or a weekend brunch, with the likes of French toast, pancakes and eggs Benedict to the fore. The evening menu, scribbled on a blackboard in chalk, is not to be sniffed at either, and although the options are limited, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good spread across meat, fish and fowl. A warm black pudding and pancetta starter is both tasty and well presented, while lovers of white fish will be happy with the crisp and chunky roast cod fillet that sits atop a tidy mound of smoked haddock kedgeree. + Easy-going and unpretentious neighbourhood diner - Burgers inexplicably lack garnish

Urban Angel â&#x20AC;˘ 1 Forth Street, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 26) 0131 556 6323, urban-angel.co.uk | ÂŁ12 (lunch) / ÂŁ12 (dinner) â&#x20AC;˘ 121 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 89) 0131 225 6215, urban-angel. co.uk | ÂŁ13 (lunch) / ÂŁ15 (dinner)

At its two centrally located branches, Urban Angel continues to serve seasonal, mostly local and ethically sourced, feelgood factor food. Big appetite or small, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something here for you. Share a few little plates, or indulge in a biggie for yourself. Salads and specials change on a daily basis, so keep an eye on those blackboards. And donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t you just love an almost all-day brunch menu? They do that here too. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s loads of choice encompassing organic and free-range continental or mixâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;match Scottish cooked breakfast choices. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re into hot drinks, this could well be the destination for you. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve recently upped their game by enlisting the help of two resident and knowledgable baristas. Seasoned coffee lovers will delight in the espresso from Alchemy and the filter coffee by Square Mile Coffee Roasters of Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s East End. And if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a novice, what a place for an initiation. Ask for a demo, but be prepared to sample without milk: these guys treat their brew like a fine wine. Startling hot chocolate blends, like Scots pine, juniper and smoked salt, are by Edinburgh chocolatiers Edward and Irwyn. Why not pair up with a homemade cake or pastry while youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re at it: raw chocolate torte, anyone? You can leave feeling almost virtuous. + All-round reliability, as ever - Be prepared to queue for a table at lunchtime

The Voodoo Rooms 19a West Register Street, New Town (Map 1B: B6, 47) 0131 556 7060, thevoodoorooms.com | No Kids | ÂŁ14.95

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps and links, go to

food.list.co.uk

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CAFES Reviewed by locals focusing on the area of the city they know best, Edinburgh’s café scene becomes more vibrant, varied and competitive every year. Specials boards proclaim seasonal local sourcing, and free-from options are now de rigueur, but successful specialisation is this year’s theme: explore gelato emporiums, tea specialists and chocolate havens. Efforts are no longer solely focused on cupcakes and coffee: handblended teas and couverture hot chocolate are increasingly turning afternoon tea into a serious business. Reviewers: Justin Anderson, Poppy Baggott, Hannah Ewan, David Kettle, Chiara Pannozzo, Fraser Paterson, Tracey Reilly

Affogato 36 Queensferry Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 11) 0131 225 1444, affogatogelato. co.uk | Closed Mon

David Bann (page 44): inventive, modern vegetarian food with global influences in stylish Old Town surroundings (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Whiski Rooms

Who has the power? What power? The power of voodoo. Who do? You do. Thankfully this Victorian gothic bar and bistro above the Café Royal is dark. Black, in fact – blacker than goths watching an eclipse, with black leather booths and black walls, broken by gold cornicing, oak panels of Empire, and ornate windows of – aaargh – bright light, enough to keep Dracula hiding in a cupboard, or Moriarty in the shadows smoking opium. Slowly, potion by potion, Bloody Mary by cock-a-leekie, eggs Benedict by voodoo hot platter, followed by a spell of banana waffle in rum toffee sauce, the chefs’ black magic breathes life back into the dead. Will this creature live – live – li-ive like Frankenstein’s monster? Hopefully angry locals won’t end up killing it with their pitch forks. + A den of decent food, drink and folk, very far from a nightmare - The old menu wasn’t pretentious – let’s pray the new one isn’t either

4, 6 & 7 North Bank Street, Old Town See Scottish

The Water of Leith Café Bistro 52 Coburg Street, Leith See Cafés

The Wild Restaurant 21 Newington Road, Southside (Map 3C: D3, 24) 0131 667 1210, thewildrestaurant.webs.com | Closed Sun/Mon | £12 / £15 (set dinner)

Having moved into the space vacated by the Wild Elephant, young couple Nico Masecchia and Lili Johnson are developing a unique take on affordable, sustainable dining. It’s the latest food trend, of course, but there’s meant to be something endurable about sustainable too. The couple are motivated less by profit than to allow and encourage everyone to eat good food. In tandem with this is what they call The Sustainable Philosophy: a determination to make everything from scratch when ordered (including unmissably good pasta), to use home-grown ingredients where possible – veg from their organic garden, eggs from their rescued battery chickens – and to reduce and compost waste. ‘Two-tone soup’ is concentric circles of the smoothest of organic squash and mushroom soups; breast

of duck in lavender and red pepper sounds dangerous, but turns out to be a lavender-hinted sauce, aromatic, inventive and hugely successful. Some aspects of their philosophy, however, aren’t being realised on the plate – supermarket shopping is in evidence, as are ingredients touting sustainability question marks, such as farmed salmon. However, they are open and honest that their project remains a work in progress: a gap has deliberately been left on the signage so they can declare themselves a sustainable restaurant when they get there. Give them a chance, and indulge the eccentricities: the fug that invades the dining room as beef is smoked to order in the kitchen, for example, and the no-budget décor. Wild lacks the media-friendly polish that abounds on Edinburgh’s restaurant scene, but if they work it all out it’ll be one of the most heartfelt and genuine places in town. + The most charming and expansive service possible - Not everyone will be comfortable with the quirks

Could this be the finest ice-cream in Edinburgh? Strictly speaking, it’s actually gelato that Anna Campbell’s friendly West End establishment both creates (on the premises) and serves from its revolving display – with a fraction of the fat of ice-cream, a softer texture and a richer flavour. Choose from the more traditional chocolate, coffee or peanut butter right through to liquorice or apple and thyme, plus seasonal specialities – and Anna’s happy to try out customer suggestions. Take away a generously filled cone or relax with a tub or two on one of the spacious café’s welcoming sofas. Also on offer are crisp, freshly cooked waffles with an inventive selection of toppings (bitter cherries with amareno gelato makes a winning combination), plus panini, artisan cakes, good, strong coffee and a flavoursome collection of teas. But the gelato’s the star here – and it’s well worth a special trip to Queensferry Street to seek it out. + Delicious, gelato in ever-changing flavours - Hard to choose which flavour – you may just have to have a second tub

Anteaques 17 Clerk Street, Southside See Cafés: Wee Places

Artisan Roast Wildfire Restaurant and Grill 192 Rose Street, New Town See Scottish

• 138 Bruntsfield Place, Southside • 57 Broughton Street, New Town See Cafés: Wee Places

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Belgian Brasserie & Terrace Lava steakstones | Mussels & Frite s Gourmet Neapol itan pizzas 9 North Bank Str eet | Edinburgh | EH12LP Tel 01312261178

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 51

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EDINBURGH

The Bakehouse Co. 42 Broughton Street (Map 1B: C4, 23) 0131 557 1157, thebakehousecompany. co.uk | £6 (lunch)

The name evokes images of flourycheeked bakers knocking out freshly baked treats on demand, and although the former aren’t on show the latter certainly are. This is an establishment that prides itself on the art of baking – everything from cakes and cookies to pies and potatoes. If you can bake it and eat it then it’s likely to find its way onto the menu. The place itself is a delight to step into; the bright front window casts light across the old display cases and cupboards which charmingly house fresh baps and bakes, and the apothecary stylings evoke feelings of food as healing and restorative. Mismatched antiquelooking furniture adds to the cosy feel. The food, as you’d imagine, is strongest when it comes to breads, scones and the like, but doesn’t match those heights on the other parts of the menu: the stews can sometimes tip into the stodgy territory, and pie and quiches could probably lose an ingredient or two. However, for simple pleasures of lovingly baked goods this place is on surer footing and offers a welcome and welcoming retreat. + A charming hideout on Broughton Street - Stodgy stews

4 La Barantine 202 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: A4, 33) 0131 229 0267 | £6.95 (set lunch)

TIP/,67 FOR TAKING THE DOG • The Blue Bear Stop off for a coffee and cake during a brisk walk along the Water of Leith 52 • Cross and Corner From kids to dogs, all are welcome at this Canonmills newcomer 28

For an authentic taste of France, you could schlep off on the Eurostar, or you could pop up to Bruntsfield Place, where owner and chef Vincent Alpincourt’s café is now comfortably established. A charming Gallic shrug of acquiescence greets almost any request relating to food or events: La Barantine is as keen to host to a party as it is to welcome the Sunday escapee with their newspaper; they also do a mean takeaway and are happy to deliver for office lunches or parties. The menu is simple, with a focus on quality rather than quantity. Food is locally sourced, with bread courtesy of Petit France and cheese and charcuterie from local deli Henri’s. The patisserie, soups, sandwiches and quiches are made on site, and possess a refreshing simplicity of presentation and depth of flavour. Meanwhile the chocolate éclairs, deserving of their increasing fame, are a great accompaniment to an espresso or hot chocolate, a combination with which any Francophile would struggle to find fault. + Fantastic food and excellent service - Hugga mugga seating

The Beach House 57 Bath Street, Portobello (Map 5A: E1, off) 0131 657 2636, thebeachhousecafe. co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch)

Oh, we do like to be beside the seaside. Come rain or shine, the Beach House in Portobello is packed with pre-schoolers and their grown-ups, lunching ladies and the odd laptop worker trying to concentrate amid the hubbub. They come here to warm up with a hot chocolate or cool down with an ice-cream sundae, and even though the place is literally twice as big as it used to be following a major renovation, tables are still at a premium almost all day. Lunch can be as light or as substantial as you like, with good-value soup and sandwich combos and a few interesting daily specials and seasonal salads. The cakes are local legends: the scones and huge slices of Victoria sponge, all made in house, practically have their own fan club, and there’s an admirable range of gluten-free options too. In the summer, the tables

spill out on to the Esplanade, bringing just a hint of Riviera life to the capital. Tiddly om-pom-pom. + Hard to beat an ice-cream on a warm sunny day - Gets pretty hectic at lunchtime

Bijou 2 Restalrig Road, Leith See Bistros & Brasseries

Black Medicine Coffee Company • 7/8 Barclay Terrace, Southside (Map 3A: B2, 23) 0131 625 5630, blackmed. co.uk | £5.50 (lunch) • 2 Nicolson Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D4, 73) 0131 557 6269, blackmed.co.uk | £7 (lunch)

With custom-made furniture and a charming mezzanine area, this Bruntsfield café is a cosy, private and relaxed environment. Black Medicine also has an outlet on Nicolson Street, which has longer opening hours, and both it and Barclay Terrace are very popular with students, who can barely be seen behind their laptop screens, and are welcomed with free wifi and efficient, friendly service. Food is of the soup and sandwich variety, with flavour-packed combinations like a bagel with chicken, bacon, Caesar sauce, red onion, sundried tomato and mozzarella. Vegetarian, fish and meat options are available, and the soup comes in a cuppa, not a bowl. Freshly made chocolate and banana milkshakes make a great accompaniment. There is an over emphasis on delivering piping-hot food to the table, meaning the odd charred panino finds its way on to a plate, but these are rare slip-ups in an otherwise reliable and friendly neighbourhood café. + Interesting and varied fillings for the bagels and panini - No specials or meal deals available

The Blue Bear 9 Brandon Terrace, New Town (Map 1B: A1, 5) 0131 629 0229, cafebluebear.co.uk | £9 (lunch)

One year old in January 2014, the Blue Bear is an excellent addition to the

Canonmills café scene, where owners Ben Gillespie and Jemma Blake are proud to front the cosy yet contemporary space. Relaxed and upbeat, the café is home to those with work to do, friends to meet, hangovers to cure, and is also an outlet for the local artists whose work adorns the walls. An additional dangling carrot for patrons is a downstairs room with table-tennis table and an iPod dock, so that you can play to your own tunes. The café’s eco-credentials are impressive: everything that is not edible is recyclable or compostable, and the food is low on mileage as well as being fresh and seasonal. The menu does not bamboozle with choice, focusing largely on breakfast/brunch options, which range from a simple bowl of porridge to a truly formidable fry-up. Eggs Benedict and Florentine are particularly praise-worthy, and it would be a crime to leave without making a selection from the cakes and pastries. + Great service, fantastic food - Toilets are a trek downstairs

The Bluebird Café 5 Canonmills, Stockbridge (Map 1B: A2, 7) 07809 126230, thebluebirdcafeedinburgh.com |

Inspired by the Bluebird Café in Nashville, Texas, where owner Kylie MacGregor has family, this recently opened Canonmills corner establishment is a small but beautifully formed café with an emphasis on warm, friendly service and its homely atmosphere and cooking. Much of the produce is made on the premises, including cakes, brownies and up to ten scones per day, as well as four daily soups. The Southern influence continues onto the main menu, with Tennessee buttermilk pancakes complementing bacon, bananas and maple syrup on sourdough toast, and nachos sitting alongside sandwich (or pitta, bagel, etc.) options strong on pastrami, chilli cheese, jalapeños and homemade chilli and pulled pork. Helpings are hearty, as evidenced by the meaty frankfurters, which come heaped with chilli and cheese or pulled pork if you’re up to the challenge. It’s

• Falko Konditormeister Coffee, cake and canines at this classy Bruntsﬁeld cafe 55 • Freemans Coffee Doing its best to welcome all local residents, from kids to students to pooches 55 • Nobles This Leith pub has a good heart, and plenty of space for hounds 36 • Old Chain Pier Head here after a bracing walk along the sea front with Rover 36 • The Southern Bar A welcoming haven for the Southside’s four-legged friends 39 • Toast Dogs join the students and after-school crowd at a Marchmont institution 50 Mimi’s Bakehouse (page 57): from gooey to indulgent layer cakes, Mimi’s is all about the cakes 52 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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comfort food with an American spin, and the imminent introduction of monthly acoustic music nights suggests a café which aspires to be a home away from home for its regulars. + Hearty food with Southern style - The seating area’s very small

Bon Papillon

tempting option of American pancakes served with maple syrup and organic bacon from Peelham Farm. A popular hangout for local workers and families, this welcoming deli is well worth seeking out while in the Broughton Street area. + Colourful seasonal salads - The cakes often sell out by the afternoon

15 Howe Street, Stockbridge See Arts Venues

Cafe Hub

Brass & Copper Coffee 18 William Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 4) 0131 226 4735, brassandcoppercoffee. co.uk | Closed Sun | £6 (lunch)

There’s no denying that food and drink options are limited at Brass & Copper, with just a couple of sandwiches and a single tasty and filling homemade soup on offer, plus one or two cakes and pastries, teas and coffees. But what it does, it does well. Rolls are generously filled with quality ingredients on tasty bread, for example, and coffee is dark and rich, prepared with care. The light and elegant interior, with wicker chairs and local art on the walls, makes it a pleasant place to take a break, and tables are widely spaced so you’ll never feel on top of other diners. + Good-quality food and drink served in an elegant interior - Limited menu choices

Castlehill, Royal Mile, Old Town (Map 2A: B2, 31) 0131 473 2067, thehubedinburgh.com | £6 (set lunch)

Cafe Hub provides a relaxed, bright and stylish atmosphere, where a mixed clientele of tourists and locals enjoy attentive service, delivered with a smile. Soups and daily specials feature on a menu designed to keep you going all afternoon, and an emphasis on Hub Made means that much of the food is produced on site. Haddock risotto with a perfectly cooked poached egg is a recommended main dish, and the soup and sandwich combo is a fair lunch deal. Gluten-free rolls can be served with sandwiches or burgers, and a separate menu for children – plus games to keep little ones entertained – makes this a venue for all the family. + Excellent service - Few choices for a lighter lunch

117–119 Buccleuch Street, Southside See Round the World

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art One, 75 Belford Road, West End See Arts Venues

Brew Lab

Café Modern Two

6–8 South College Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D4, 74) 0131 662 8963, brewlabcoffee.co.uk | £8 (lunch

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art Two, 73 Belford Road, West End See Arts Venues

Melding traditional and innovate brewing techniques to create a unique coffee experience is what this place is all about. It has a very lively, student-oriented environment, and the wifi is turned off at peak times on weekdays to ensure turnover is maintained. Even so, seats are still extremely difficult to come by. The lunchtime menu, which features a short changing list of sandwiches and soups, is placed on the floor at the side of the entrance, and the coffees and other hot drink options on the wall take a bit of understanding. The service is a bit impersonal, and the staff could do more to explain how things work to a first-time visitor. That said, all the offerings are of superb quality, especially the soups sourced from Forrest Road’s Union of Genius. If prepared to stomach the rush and quickly find your own feet, then one of the finest quality lunches in the area is to be had. + Quality of all offerings - Impersonal service

Broughton Delicatessen 7 Barony Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 20) 0131 558 7111, broughton-deli.co.uk | £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

Brightly coloured paper snowballs hang from the ceiling and illustrations by local artists adorn the walls of this vibrant delicafé, which is as popular for a takeaway salad box as it is for a relaxing coffee and cake pitstop. In a menu packed with enticing options, salads, crêpes and daily specials are a strong suit and these, like almost everything except the bread, are made in house. Owner Ailith Anderson encourages her team to create colourful, tasty food with plenty of texture and flavour – the type of thing you want to make at home, but never seem to have the time. The delicately spiced ramen is a nourishing bowlful, packed with noodles and fresh crunchy veg (and chicken if you so desire) and the occasional hint of garlic. Breakfast is served until the civilised hour of 2pm, and includes the

Casa Angelina 42 London Street, New Town See Cafés: Wee Places

Café Nom de Plume 60 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 15) 0131 478 1372 | No Kids (under 5) | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

‘This is the friendliest café in town’ is the kind of proclamation likely to be overheard on a visit to Café Nom de Plume. Walk into this venue and you immediately feel transported into someone’s living room: a fully stocked bookshelf, the owners’ art and the general layout make this place particularly welcoming. The menu has a good selection of lighter bites and larger main dishes and caters well to vegetarians and vegans, while the drinks list boasts a good selection of wines and all the usual spirits. Manna House bread is served to mop up your soup, and the portion sizes mean that even salad eaters won’t go hungry. The coffee is very good and can be accompanied by a selection of sweet treats, including pastries, biscuits and delicious homemade sultana scones. + Great vegetarian options - No children under five allowed

4 HITLIST

CAFES 4 La Barantine Authentic French simplicity in cooking and sourcing, with justifiably famous patisserie.

4 Circle by Di Giorgio New ownership has only reinforced the popularity of this Canonmills institution.

4 Earthy Market Café Seasonal

Castello Coffee Co

organic produce in a charming and quirky Southside café.

7 Castle Street, New Town See Cafés: Wee Places

4 Edinburgh Larder Café

Centotre Café Modern One

Brazilian Sensation

are just part of the deal. There’s also an interesting line-up of sarnies, salads and specials, like kiln-roasted Loch Fyne salmon with new potato salad or a classic Reuben sandwich (renamed here as the Hillside) featuring pastrami, emmental, sauerkraut and Russian dressing. For a more leisurely afternoon there’s a selection of wines by the glass or bottle and WEST beers on tap – particularly appealing when the sun shines on the outdoor tables. Seasonal evening openings (Fridays in the colder months, and more frequently in summer) feature the likes of burgers, fish pie and veggie tagine. Offers pop up on Facebook from time to time, and the ample downstairs area is available for private events. As neighbourhood cafés go, it’s pretty hard to beat. + Getting a seat outside when the sun shines - It’s a pretty little basement, but it’s still a basement

103 George Street, New Town See Italian

La Cerise 199 Great Junction Street, Leith (Map 5A: B2, off) 0131 555 6065, lacerise.biz | Closed Sat/Sun | £6 (lunch)

La Cerise is bright, welcoming and bustling with regulars. Service is friendly and flexible – owners Claire and Martin Wilson will always try to accommodate a customer’s requirements if something is not on the menu. Smoothies, milkshakes and the 22 flavours of award-winning homemade ice-creams are the crown jewels of this establishment, and the Wilsons are always experimenting. Recent innovations include their take on a classic snack, in the form of peanut butter and jam ice-cream. Elsewhere on the menu you’ll find soup and three hot dishes each day, with strong vegetarian options and gluten-free bread available. The entire menu (except the croissants) is homemade, and the cakes are pretty as well as delicious. La Cerise is well worth a visit if you’re in the neighbourhood. + The ice-creams, milkshakes and smoothies - Toilets are downstairs – not ideal for those less able

The Chocolate Tree 123 Bruntsfield Place, Southside See Cafés: Wee Places

Scotland’s finest, most sustainable ingredients turned into well-priced and imaginative dishes.

4 Glass & Thompson A smart, licensed café focused on quality across the board.

4 Milk An independent West End café serving breakfast, lunch and wholesome snacks all day long.

4 Mimi’s Bakehouse Yes, there are good savoury choices, but cake is the real business at vintage-themed Mimi’s.

4 Peter’s Yard Swedish style, famously good baking and creative, simple lunches make this an outpost of good taste and quality.

4 The Water of Leith Café Bistro Family-run warmth and a French-inspired menu: Leithers can’t keep this one for themselves.

4 Circle by Di Giorgio 1 Brandon Terrace, Canonmills, New Town (Map 1B: A1, 6) 0131 624 4666, thecirclecafe.com | £10 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Joining the hotbed of café competition in Canonmills, Circle by Di Giorgio opened under new owners Nadia and Ivan Di

Café Portrait Scottish National Portrait Gallery, 1 Queen Street, New Town See Arts Venues

Caffe Espresso 15 Bank Street, Old Town See Cafés: Wee Places

Café Renroc 91 Montgomery Street, New Town (Map 5B: A5, 21) 0131 629 3727, caferenroc. co.uk | £10 (lunch) / £11.95 (set dinner)

Renroc is the type of café every neighbourhood should have. Coffee pitstop, working lunch with laptop or picnic to take to the local park, it’s all here. Drop in on any given day and you’ll most likely be greeted by name, either by owner Pelham Hill or one of his friendly staff. Top-notch Illy coffee, homemade cakes and all-day breakfasts

22-24 Easter Road, EH7 5RG, 0131 652 2349 themannahousebakery.co.uk The List Eating & Drinking Guide 53

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Giorgio in August 2013 and has already earned its stripes. Straddling the divide between bistro and café, a strong Italian influence runs through Circle’s veins, evident not only in the passion, skill and imagination with which the menu and food are put together, but also in the relaxed buzzy atmosphere and rural rustic meets city chic décor. While the vibe is Italian, the menu is not strictly so, and changes often; an unctuous slow-cooked lamb ragû with tagliatelle or lamb kofta with tzatziki sit alongside a variety of burgers as hearty mains; antipasti or arancini balls are lighter bites, and a variety of breakfast options are available all day. + Palpable passion for food and drink - Trying to choose just one thing from the menu City Art Centre, 2 Market Street, Old Town See Arts Venues

‘golden gates’ to the hungry masses at 7.30am Mon–Sat, the first whiff of bacon and fresh roasted coffee drifting out and defying the most resilient of souls to resist its allure; and those who succumb will not be disappointed. A bright and cheerful place should you wish to sit in, and quick efficient service if you takeaway, Coffee Angel ticks all the boxes. Focusing on quality convenient food, the menu features tried and tested old favourites, like ham and cheese and chicken salad, but also showcases some newcomers, such as a black pudding, goat’s cheese and beetroot panini – a surprising but pleasing combo. The smoothies and milkshakes are made on site with fresh fruit, and are in a different class altogether from their poor preprepared bottled relations, while for those cursed with a sweet tooth, the cake and pastry counter may prove irresistible. + Adventurous sandwich fillings - Being defeated by the size of the smoothies

Coffee Angel

Connect Café

24–27 Brandon Terrace, New Town (Map 1B: A2, 4) 0131 622 6235, coffee-angel. co.uk | £6 (lunch)

153–155 Comely Bank Road, Stockbridge (Map 1: A2, off) 0131 315 2003 | Closed Sun | £7 (lunch)

The aptly named Coffee Angel opens its

Jewel-like red walls, rustic wooden tables and a cheering display of homemade cakes make celebrity foodie and travel writer Nell Nelson’s co-owned cafécum-gift shop a popular venue for the daytime ‘coffee housers’ of Edinburgh. Situated away from the main hub of Stockbridge on Comely Bank Road, the café is conveniently placed opposite Waitrose, so the weekly shop can be combined with meeting friends, or just a quick coffee and cake pick-me-up. The provision of locally sourced food cooked in ‘farmhouse kitchen style’ is the ethos behind this café, and it succeeds in showcasing some of Scotland’s best food in a simple and wholesome way. The daily soup comes with some good crusty bread, while a selection of unpretentious sandwiches and toasties are sure to satisfy. + A warm welcome guaranteed from staff and other patrons - Chairs a little hard for lingering

City Art Centre Café

TIP/,67 FOR BREAKFAST & BRUNCH • La Barantine Croissants and pastries for breakfast with a French accent in Bruntsﬁeld 52 • The Blue Bear This Canonmills cafe is dedicated to the all-day breakfast 52 • Cafe Marlayne Le petit dejeuner and le brunch are two things this French enclave does particularly well 72 • Centotre Pancakes, porridge and eggs every which way are another string to this Italian restaurant’s bow 81 • Glass & Thompson This New Town stalwart does weekend breakfast in ﬁne style 55 • The King’s Wark A walk along the Water of Leith followed by brunch here should sort out that Sunday feeling 35 • Leo’s Beanery Book in advance for weekend breakfast at this cosy New Town coffee shop 56 • Toast Form an orderly queue for weekend brunch, said to be one of the best in town 50 • Urban Angel Creative and vibrant food from early in the morning 50

54 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Copper Bird Café 129 Morrison Street, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

Cucina LC 68 Haymarket Terrace, West End (Map 4: A3, 68) 0131 467 2671 | Closed Sat/Sun | £9 (lunch)

A choice of 29 salads on the blackboard menu – not to mention dozens of sandwich options, as well as daily specials – might at first seem a bit overwhelming. But it’s entirely in keeping with owner Lorena Crolla’s generous spirit in this lively Haymarket deli-café – and in any case, just tell her your favourite ingredients and she’ll rustle you up something delicious, and substantial, from among her Asian/Italian inspirations. There’s a choice of daily changing soup – pea and smoked ham is a rich, deeply flavoured creation – plus fresh quiches, unusual baked potato toppings and a sumptuous array of cakes (white chocolate blondies and fresh strawberry Victoria sponge, to name just two indulgent highlights), all proudly made on the premises. Breakfasts range from the healthy (muesli, fruit salad) to a full Scottish, and friendly waiters are on hand to guide you through the options. Sofas invite you to linger, but elsewhere tables are close, so that as many people as possible can enjoy the exceptional cooking – as well as being surprised by the low prices. + Generous choice of delicious food prepared with care

- Be prepared to wait at peak times

Cuckoo’s Bakery 150 Dundas Street, New Town (Map 1A: D1, 34) 0131 556 6224, cuckoosbakery. co.uk | Closed Mon | £9 (lunch)

The chequerboard tiles over an L-shaped counter, wooden floor and relaxed welcome could easily convince you that you’d stumbled into a friend’s country kitchen, rather than the New Town oasis of Cuckoo’s Bakery. The counter is stacked with imaginative cakes and pastries, offered alongside coffee, hot chocolate and 17 different teas, while the menu offers intriguing brunches or a lunch selection of fresh soup, ciabatta melts and huge sandwiches that are not so much doorsteps as flood defences. But it is the sentry-like display cabinet that houses the crown jewels: the cupcakes. Each day, 12 lovingly decorated varieties beckon customers with a promise of unusual delights. Flavours like Baileys and white chocolate, Mars bar cheesecake and chocolate chip cookie dough explain not only why people come from all over town for a Cuckoo’s cupcake, but also why they have a successful delivery business and supply Waterstones. They’re that good. + The amazing array of unusual cakes - Perhaps a touch on the pricey side

Dovecot Café by Stag Espresso Dovecot Studios, 10 Infirmary Street, Old Town See Arts Venues

The Drill Hall Café 34 Dalmeny Street, Leith See Arts Venues

Earthy Canonmills 1–6 Canonmills Bridge, Stockbridge See Bistros & Brasseries

4 Earthy Market Café 33–41 Ratcliffe Terrace, Southside (Map 3C: D5, 31) 0131 667 2967, earthy.co.uk | £13 (lunch)

Hidden among Causewayside’s Dickensian range of antique shops, Earthy Market Café has a somewhat subterranean feel, and with its rustic décor and laid-back atmosphere it is no wonder that it’s a popular venue for those in the know. Boasting ample inside and outside seating, as well as a new covered area with an open fire, the appeal is hard to resist. Adding considerably to this café’s charms is a palpable awareness of food and its origins: local, seasonal, organic and free range dictate the menu, but this does not diminish the diversity, creativity or taste in any way. Ordering from the counter, you are faced with an impressive array of heart-warming salads – autumnal root vegetables, pulses, cheeses, nuts and seeds, with hints of crisp peppery rocket and flat leaf parsley; chunky crusty breads are made on site, and are served alongside salads or soups. Cakes also feature vegetables, with courgettes popping up in lemon cake and beetroots in with the chocolate. Those who don’t live nearby and are daunted by the trip don’t need to lose heart: Earthy have an equally welcoming café and shop in Canonmills + Local, seasonal, organic food in a charming environment - Off the beaten track

4 Edinburgh Larder Café 15 Blackfriars Street, Old Town (Map 2B: A3, 8) 0131 556 6922, edinburghlarder. co.uk | £7 (set lunch)

This understandably popular café has a rustic style yet warm feel, where the welcome is genuine and the soft background music would never

interfere with conversation. The menu contains a feast of local ingredients and some from across Scotland: the deli platter, for instance, features meat from Berwickshire and cheese from the Highlands. Manager Will Bain likes his curries, regularly featuring these as daily specials among the soups, sandwiches and platters of the regular menu, and least one vegetarian dish is available daily. Sweet treats range from scones and jam to generous helpings of homemade cake. Teas from eteaket and Artisan Roast coffees sit alongside a range of Scottish beers and ciders. Lunchtimes are always busy in this cosy café, but service remains brisk and efficient, so it’s worth waiting for a table even at peak times. + Quality of produce and service - Some of the tables are a little cramped

Embo 29 Haddington Place, Leith Walk, New Town See Cafés: Wee Places

Empires 24 St Mary’s Street, Old Town See Round the World

The Engine Shed 19 St Leonards Lane, Southside (Map 3C: E2, 15) 0131 662 0040, engineshed. org | £8.50 (set lunch)

The Engine Shed helps young people with learning difficulties to develop skills which will enable them to move into mainstream, paid employment. Trainees prepare, cook and serve all the food, and the bright, spacious room attracts a mixed clientele who enjoy good counter service with a basic menu of generously portioned vegetarian dishes. At the heart of the lunchtime choices are various baked potatoes and salads, a standout of which includes mushrooms, herbs, red apple, hazelnuts and yoghurt dressing. There are two daily specials, one of which is always a quiche made with seasonal veg. As well as baking all their own bread in house – and even making their own tofu – the Engine Shed also engages local suppliers including East Coast Organics and Fife Creamery. There’s a good range of tempting cakes, including gluten-free options and a delicious vegan chocolate cake with a rich chocolate icing. + Bright, spacious and welcoming - Not that easy to find

Eteaket 41 Frederick Street, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 70) 0131 226 2982, eteaket.co.uk | £14.99 (set lunch)

For a nation of tea drinkers, is it an unreasonable challenge to find a good, perhaps interesting, cup of tea in an unrushed setting? New Town based Eteaket doesn’t seem to think so. Devoted customers, including an expanding range of business operators who have joined their loyalty programme, settle in across the day – some for a morning meeting in a personal setting, some ‘ladies who tea’, others tourists seeking respite and a recharge from George Street. With more than 40 carefully chosen blends and varieties from around the world, spoiled for choice is a pretty accurate description. Throughout the day, fresh, overfilled sandwiches come forth from the kitchen. Cakes and pastries might sometimes arrive as a slightly wobbly slice but that speaks volumes for them being just-baked, homemade by one of a roster of local, small-scale suppliers. Nothing mass produced about this. Yes, it can get busy and service isn’t always quickfire, but genuine friendliness can count for a lot more and what would you prefer when sitting down to a lovely pot of tea?

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their creativity. It’s not an easy feat, but Freemans manages to offer something for everyone – and dogs are welcome too. + Serious coffee education - Toilets also hark back to school days

French Press Coffee Company 25a Dundas Street, New Town See Cafés: Wee Places

The Fruitmarket Gallery Café Fruitmarket Gallery, 45 Market Street, Old Town See Arts Venues

Gaia Delicatessen 32 Crighton Place, Leith Walk, Leith See Cafés: Wee Places

The Gateway Restaurant John Hope Gateway Centre, Royal Botanic Garden, Arboretum Place, Inverleith See Arts Venues

4 Glass & Thompson

PHOTO © CAITLIN COOKE

2 Dundas Street, New Town (Map 1A: D3, 40) 0131 557 0909 | £5.45 (set lunch)

Valvona & Crolla Caffè Bar (page 60): after 80 years in business, this Edinburgh institution is as popular as ever + A great place to hide away and put the

world to rights - Eventually your boss may realise you’re not at your desk

Falko (Konditormeister) 185 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: A4, 35) 0131 656 0763, falko.co.uk | £9.50 (lunch)

It is perhaps not odd that one of Scotland’s most highly regarded cake and bread shops isn’t Scottish at all, when you consider that in Germany you must work for five years and pass craft exams before you can call yourself a master pastry chef, or Konditormeister. Falko Burkert earned this title years ago, and still insists that his sponges are fluffed not by raising agents, but by the traditional Viennese method of beating air into the eggs. His strudel is made with paper-thin bent dough rather than puff pastry, and packed thickly with spiced apple and rum-soaked raisins, and mighty gateaux can easily be shared between two. Cakes, rather than savoury food, are the focus, but the latter doesn’t disappoint. Simple open sandwiches, a Germano-Scottish sourced meat and cheese platter or popular wurst salad all come with the excellent bread that stocks retail shelves behind the counter, hunted down with relief by homesick German students. The décor harks to the traditionalism of the baking: lined with dark wooden panelling and antique copper baking equipment, it avoids being pigeonholed into catering for office lunches, yummy mummies or students, managing to appeal to all camps. + The melted couverture hot chocolate - Popular with families, but no space for baby changing

Fleur de Sel 61 Frederick Street, New Town See French

Foodies at Holyrood 67 Holyrood Road, Old Town (Map 2B: C3, 27) 0131 557 6836, foodiesatholyrood.com | £7 (lunch)

Situated a short walk off the Canongate, at the foot of Holyrood Road, Foodies

is in a convenient location for Dynamic Earth, Holyrood Park and the Scottish Parliament. With its busy lunch trade, particularly for takeaways, it has more of a pitstop feel than somewhere to sit back and relax awhile. Thanks to its Old Town location and proximity to a number of hotels and businesses, the clientele is a wide mix, and covers a range of ages from kids to pensioners. Quality ingredients include coffee beans from the Bean Shop in Perth, milk from the Fife Creamery and sausages from Edinburgh’s own Crombies. The regular menu has something for most tastes, with soups, sandwiches and generous baked potatoes supplemented daily by freshly made cakes. + The quality of the food - Big portions leave no room for dessert

The Forest Café 141 Lauriston Place, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 1) 0131 229 4922, blog.theforest.org. uk | £6 (lunch) / £6 (dinner)

The Forest Café, a hippy-ish, vegetarian café in a glass-fronted corner on Lauriston Place, affords excellent views for people-watching both outside and in. Here, in dusty nooks, an army of volunteers bustle among mismatched, recycled chairs and crockery, painted tables, felt stalactites and graffiti murals on concrete walls, in a hub for likeminded artists and creatives, described as a collectively owned free-arts and events project. The blackboard lists cheesy beans, burritos served with three salads, pitta bread with hummus and signature zhug (a chilli green pesto). The wrap of the day might be a delicious goat’s cheese, beetroot, spinach and walnut, and the nachos topped with salsa, melted cheddar and sour cream come in molehill or mountain size. Traybakes and cakes are good, as is the unusual ‘Mexi chai’ Mexican-spiced coffee. The Forest Café’s appeal is perhaps more its niche than its food, but it’s all fresh, honest and good value, so you’ll leave feeling as goodhearted as the staff. + The place has a unique charm - Cakes perhaps a little perfunctory

Freemans 2–6 Spottiswoode Road, Southside (Map 3C: A2, 34), freemanscoffee.co.uk | £10 (lunch)

It’s like being back at school. This popular coffee haven, just down the road from one of the city’s best secondary schools and in the heart of residential studentville, is packed with ancient school chairs, communal tables and classroom maps adorning the walls. The coffee is an education too: it’s taken seriously here, with self-confessed geekery at play, and different blends depending on whether you’re taking it black or with milk, while brewing options include espresso, V60 filter or French press (cafetière). Giant sandwiches come packed with interesting ingredients like Arbroath smokie with salsa verde or pastrami with smoked cheese and gherkins, while at the weekend the brunch menu offers eggs various ways to go with the hangoversolving coffee. The free wifi attracts students, who chat in myriad languages while collaborating over course work, and parents and kids are welcomed with cakes and a giant chalkboard to unleash

Taking pride of place at the top of Dundas Street, Glass & Thompson know a thing or two about great food. A deli-style menu delights with a great range of options, from homemade quiches to charcuterie boards, served with the freshest of breads. The soups are hearty, as are the salads, and if it’s a lazy weekend brunch you’re looking for, you’ll be hard pressed to do better than Glass & Thompson’s scrambled eggs with smoked salmon. The sort of place you could never feel rushed, it’s a great place for relaxing with a cup of coffee, one of the wide array of papers and magazines that adorn the shelves, and one of their spectacular sweet treats (their brownie is up there with the best of them). The staff are knowledgable advocates of their trade, and year after year this establishment continues to charm. + Delicious artisan bread - Cakes can sell out early

Gorgie City Farm Café 51 Gorgie Road (Map 4: A4, off) 0131 337 4202, gorgiecityfarm.org.uk | £5 (lunch)

A working farm, it makes sense that this café isn’t a pastel-coloured cupcake grotto. Instead there’s plenty of practical space between tables for the pushchairs that herald their main market: children. The menu is geared towards simple meals and snacks that won’t take up too much of mum’s attention – baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and soups. The latter is made onsite, as is a daily quiche – brie, ham and red pepper perhaps – occasional hot specials, and the baking. You’ll not find the elaborate

Porto & Fi 47 Newhaven Main Street Edinburgh EH6 4NQ

t: 0131 551 1900 e: enquiries@portofi.com

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cake creations of more specialised cafés, but you might find soup made from veg harvested 20 metres away, and if you arrive before noon you’ll definitely find morning rolls filled with farm-reared sausage (whose relatives you can then go and say hello to) and scrambled eggs that are guaranteed free-range, and quite possibly come from Gorgie chickens. Prices are family-friendly as well: nothing on the short kids’ menu tops £4, and most of the rest is well under a fiver. + A unique location - Loos a little too rustic

Gran Caffè The Signet Library, Parliament Square, High Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 20) 0131 226 1064, thesignetlibrary.co.uk/ gran-caffe | Closed Sat/Sun | £8 (lunch)

Case notes and legislation literature pack the shelves of the Georgian Signet Library, and tables from 1815 await their culinary offerings. Its position beside the courts means lunchtime clientele are mainly of the legal profession, although other local workers and locals in the know are also to be found here. It is advisable to book for lunch, where the menu is short but classy and staff are helpful and accommodating. A soup and scone or ciabatta at £8 is expensive for the area, but the quality and exquisite surroundings make it worth it. Gluten-free breads and cakes are always available, and join a menu of

TIP/,67 TEA & CAKE • Anteaques Eighty brews and tea-themed scones in a tiny, quirky set-up 61 • Casa Angelina Simply one of the best afternoon teas in town 61 • The Chocolate Tree Bean to bar creativity and chocolate cakes galore 62 • Cuckoos Bakery Cupcakes dominate at this New Town cafe, with a large selection of teas to choose from 54 • Earthy Market Café Organic cakes that feel healthy thanks to some innovative use of vegetables 54 • Eteaket These very ﬁne teas are to be found in discerning cafés across town, including their own 54 • Lovecrumbs Supplying beautiful cakes to cafes around town, but keeping some for their own 57 • Mimi’s Bakehouse Big portions of brilliant bakes and cakes 57 • Patisserie Madeleine Artful patisserie and masterful macaroons 64

56 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

soup, bread and seafood platters. plus a bountiful choice of homemade cakes, scones, brownies and macaroons, which are the Gran Caffè’s crowning glory. + Beautiful interior - Only one hot main course available

The Grassmarket Café The Grassmarket Centre, 86 Candlemaker Row, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 39) 0131 225 3626, grassmarketcommunityproject.co.uk | Closed Sat/Sun

The new building designed by Gareth Hoskins Architects in the space between Greyfriars Kirkyard and the Grassmarket houses the social enterprise Grassmarket Community Project. Alongside workshops and a flexible community hall that can be used for Festival theatre and conferences is a public café offering a simple but satisfying array of sandwiches, drinks and cakes including a soup and hot dish of the day. With much of the work front and back of house being taken on by volunteers working alongside members of the community seeking vocational training and experience, it’s both a worthwhile cause and a sanctuary away from the bustle of the Old Town, with fair trade and locally sourced ingredients (including herbs from the Kirkyard garden) as well as pleasant outdoor seating. + A breath of fresh air in the touristy Old Town - Food is basic, but that’s the point

The Haven 9 Anchorfield, Leith (Map 5A: A2, off) 0131 467 7513, havencafe.co.uk | £7 (lunch)

Opened in 2011 as an outlet for the considerable baking talents of owner Natalie Kwek, The Haven is a fun, characterful Newhaven café cluttered with quirky memorabilia and fairy lights. Mismatched furniture and crockery add to an eclectic vintage vibe and the cake counter groans with fabulous traybakes, biscuits and scones. Crowd-pleasers such as carrot cake and rocky road jostle for attention alongside such heavenly treats as cheesecake brownies, empire biscuits and lemon and almond loaf. The Haven opens its doors at 8am on weekdays and 9am at weekends to catch earlybirds in search of breakfast. To accompany your Artisan Roast coffee or Suki tea, the cheery staff cook a generous Scottish fry-up (meat or veggie, available all day long) to order and are always busy flipping their famous pancakes – plain, served with bacon and maple syrup, or the special pancake of the day such as raspberry and dark chocolate. At lunchtime, there’s at least one soup and a standard array of sandwiches. + Pancake of the day, dowsed in maple syrup - Sliced-bread sandwiches just don’t feel special enough

Henderson’s @ St John’s St John’s Terrace, 3 Lothian Road, West End (Map 4: C1, 18) 0131 229 0212, hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk | £11.50 (lunch)

Henderson’s has been the standardbearer for fun, informal vegetarian and vegan dining in Edinburgh for decades and the St John’s branch, which opened in 2009, is an extension of the all-welcoming Henderson’s vibe. Occupying an extraordinary stonevaulted room in the basement of the church on the corner of Princes Street and Lothian Road, it attracts locals and tourists alike, who slip down to the ‘terrace community’ under the church for sanctuary from conspicuous

commerce and the promise of a thoroughly decent scone. Lunchtimes are often busy but the spacious dining room retains an air of peace, and in summer the terrace outside is an equally tranquil spot. Classic Henderson’s dishes are on offer here, canteen-style, such as frittata, lasagne, substantial salads and, of course, the much-loved vegetarian haggis – a delicious mix of pinhead oatmeal, lentils, kidney beans, vegetables and spices. There isn’t a separate menu for children but small portions are available for smaller appetites. And Henderson’s extends its wide embrace of good living to include live music on Fridays and regularly changing displays of artwork. + Seasonal, organic, feel-good food - A bit dark and chilly in winter

Henri of Edinburgh • 48 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, 3) 0131 332 8963 • 376 Morningside Road, Soutshide (Map 3B: A4, 6) 0131 447 8877 henrisofedinburgh.co.uk | £15 (lunch)

You can’t get much more French than Henri of Edinburgh. The original Morningside branch presents an impressive selection of French cheeses, charcuterie and wines. Brought in direct from our cousins across the water, it’s the sort of fare that will impress dinner party guests any night of the week. It has limited seating – quite the contrary to its sister branch in Stockbridge, which boasts a large café serving Henri’s food on the premises. The menu is dominated by a selection of authentic French sandwiches, stuffed with charcuterie and oozing with cheese. There are also soups and tarts on offer, and as you might expect, sharing platters and cheese boards direct from Henri’s own deli. The food is tasty and fresh, and nobody who has eaten in France would deny that the food here is authentic. Since Henri is licensed, you can enjoy a glass or two of chardonnay while nibbling on some saucisson and brie. And if it’s a café au lait and something sweet that you’re after, there are plenty of treats: the traybakes, pastries and cakes are incredibly tempting. Be sure to leave yourself time to wander around the shop and deli before you leave, but be warned – the smell of cheese is irresistible. + Truly authentic French fare - Tables are a little close together

Hernandez & Co. 31a Queensferry Street, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

Hula Juice Bar and Gallery 103–105 West Bow, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 34) 0131 220 1121, hulajuicebar. co.uk | £6.50 (set lunch)

This extremely popular café is usually packed with a youthful clientele, giving it a buzz of excitement. The warm red walls with bright paintings result in a relaxed vibe, where service is efficient and friendly. There’s a wide choice of fruit smoothies, milkshakes and juices, including three hot ones. The Roastin’ Ruby Red with beetroot, fennel, apple and lemon is an exciting warmer. The small selection of wraps and salads is boosted by bagels, soups and optional extras. A lunchtime soup and wrap/ bagel combo is among the best value in the Old Town. Local ingredients abound: fruit and vegetables are supplied from Bruntsfield, coffee beans from Edinburgh-based Artisan Roast, and even the food packaging and cups are compostable. Definitely a place to consider when in the vicinity. + Plenty of vegetarian and gluten-free options throughout the menu - Soup not as exciting as it could be

Jacob • 42 South Bridge, Old Town (Map 2A: D3, 78) 0131 337 1791 • 62 Haymarket Terrace, West End (Map 4: A3, 67) 0131 347 8884 jacobsbakery.co.uk | £10 (lunch)

South Bridge is the second café outpost for this popular Gorgie-based bakery and patisserie, following on from the opening of a site at Haymarket in 2013. While still in its infancy, the South Bridge incarnation already has plans to extend downstairs to create a restaurant space that would allow them to cater for evening trade. There’s plenty at both branches, however, to satisfy daytime punters, with puffy quiches, daily soups, spinach and feta parcels, and a tempting mix of salads that dare to stray from the standard – roasted aubergine with sesame seeds, for example, or broccoli, artichoke and carrot. Don’t forget to save a space for that chocolate croissant, or a handmade pistachio and dark chocolate truffle, or perhaps a giant violet meringue, all crafted in Jacob’s bakery. And on your way out, maybe grab some freshly baked spelt bread or sourdough for tomorrow’s breakfast. + Choosing which truffle to have - Limited seating

Kiki’s 28 Grindlay Street, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

Leo’s Beanery 23a Howe Street, New Town (Map 1A: C3, 31) 0131 556 8403, leosbeanery. co.uk | £9 (lunch)

One of those well-loved neighbourhood reliables where regulars are greeted by name, Leo’s is a beanery in the serious coffee sense, not in the ‘cheap restaurant’ sense. It’s very much a café, for a start, and is the only place in Edinburgh to serve (and sell bags of) Hands On coffee. Everything other than artisan bakery Dough Re Mi’s bread is made on site, including gluten-free brownies that many an entrepreneur has tried to deduce the recipe for. Each day brings a different quiche, soup, burger, paté and special – a chunky slice of duck and pork pie, for instance – alongside semi-permanent salad and sandwich combinations. The quiche – think aubergine, sun-dried tomato and feta – is excellent; served with bread and salad, it leaves just enough room for a sweet-sharp lime and ginger slice. Packed with bacon and black pudding from Stockbridge butcher Bowers, the breakfast menu is served until 1.30pm on weekends – but despite extending the cosy basement into what was a private dining room (it can still be booked for events), you’ll probably still face a wait for your reclaimed wooden table if you turn up without booking. + Super-friendly family-run service - The pies would be even nicer warmed up

La Locanda 61 Cockburn Street, Old Town See Italian

Loudon’s Café & Bakery Lochrin Square, 94b Fountainbridge, West End (Map 4: C3, 51) 0131 228 9774, loudons-cafe.co.uk | £9 (lunch)

A groaning table of tempting cakes, pastries, scones and breads is the first thing to greet you as you walk in Loudon’s door. And such is the freshness, range (from spelt scones to raspberry meringues) and sheer tastiness of the spacious café’s offerings – all baked on the premises – that Loudon’s is right to feature them so prominently. It’s a large, airy space, cunningly divided into more intimate sections for sofa loungers or laptop tappers (plenty of plug sockets,

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the Picnic Parlour in the Canongate. Bringing Mimi’s name and legendary cakes into the heart of the Old Town, this venue is a great deal smaller and serves a predominantly takeaway crowd. Soups, sandwiches, stovies and, of course, cake entice the lunchtime hordes. + Fabulous layer cakes - Short on vegetarian savoury options

Mint Café 3 Exchange Buildings, 3 Semple Street, West End (Map 4: C2, 49) 07561 197584 | Closed Sat/Sun | £6 (lunch)

PHOTO © CAITLIN COOKE

Tucked away amid the glass and chrome office buildings in Exchange Place off Fountainbridge, Mint Café is a bright and airy place, combining sleek modern furniture (spacious green and white tables for four and comfy sofas) with more rustic crafts and art by Scottish makers. There’s fresh home baking every day, with spot-on scones and an indulgent selection of cakes on display – the Aero chocolate biscuit traybake is a particular winner, and toffee shortbread makes a generous mouthful. Soups and specials change daily, and the ‘Seriously Good Cheese Toastie’ (with tangy Isle of Mull cheddar, leek and garlic on artisan sourdough bread) more than lives up to its name. With a secluded outdoor seating area for the warmer weather, it’s a comfortable spot for lunch or a treat. + Seriously good cheese toastie - Service can be on the impersonal side Embo (page 62): a warm welcome and excellent food await at this charming Leith Walk café

too, and reliable wifi) with no-nonsense, Scandinavian-style fittings. For breakfast there’s quinoa with fruit, a full fry-up or a fine eggs Benedict (currently weekends only, planned to go all week). Lunchtime offerings include soups, pizzas, quiches and sandwiches, all made freshly on the premises – and vegans and vegetarians are well served (gluten-free, too, in a pleasingly wide choice of cakes). It’s not the cheapest option in town, but it’s a welcoming place to meet, work or simply while away an hour or several. + Cakes, breads and pastries, all made in house, are second to none - On the pricey side

Lovecrumbs 155 West Port, Old Town (Map 4: D2, 29) 0131 629 0626, lovecrumbs.co.uk | £5 (coffee and cake)

Lovecrumbs occupies the premises of a former Victorian grocer’s shop, with the original fireplace and large windows adding to the atmosphere and appeal. You can even have your tea and cake served atop the lid of a piano, where students from the nearby art college sometimes sit with their MacBooks. The wide choice of tea and Artisan Roast coffee is enhanced by wonderful hot chocolate from Edinburgh’s Coco, with flavours ranging from plain to rose and cardamom. Highlights from the bountiful cake display include a cheese scone with butter and Marmite – a welcome savoury option – and a gorgeous orange and violet cake. All cakes are homemade, generously portioned and served, as the name suggests, with love. The choice of bakes changes daily, and there is always at least one wheat-free option. This is a relaxing and rather off-beat spot for cake and people-watching. + Cracking value for money - Small cup for the hot chocolate

Maialino 34 William Street, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

The Manna House 22–24 Easter Road See Cafés: Wee Places

Le Marché Français 9a West Maitland Street, West End See French

Marie Delices 125 Comiston Road, Southside See Cafés: Wee Places

Mary’s Milk Bar 19 Grassmarket, Old Town See Cafés: Wee Places

Maxi’s 33 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, 4) 0131 343 3007 | £4.95 (set lunch)

Maxi’s is the quintessential café. No highfalutin’ promises, no nonsense, no disappointments. Situated on Stockbridge’s main drag, it is totally at home, and competes happily with the plethora of other little gems in this part of town. Very rarely without a bit of bustle, Maxi’s is popular with locals and visitors alike; the scrubbed pine tables seat plenty for breakfasts, brunches, lunches or teas, but can be over-subscribed at the weekends when the lure of a late breakfast overcomes even the most resilient, and parents eager to escape the house converge with buggies and toddlers for a slice of cake and a coffee. The menu is simple but the food is absolutely top notch, showing that good quality ingredients put together properly can make even the simplest fare a feast. + Cakes and bakes - Seating is slightly hugga mugga

4 Milk 232 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 57) 0131 629 6022, cafemilk.co.uk | £6 (lunch)

It’s the sheer tastiness of Milk’s creative food (all, apart from breads, made on the premises) that marks the place out – from a chorizo burrito for breakfast through to black bean, sweet potato and quinoa chilli at lunchtime. Tucked into a gleaming, tiled space on Morrison Street, Milk’s bare benches and no-nonsense enamel tableware rightly make the food the star. With healthy bircher muesli or a high-class fry-up for breakfast, or a

selection of soups, salads, sandwiches and hot dishes for lunchtime (Chiang Mai noodles and carrot and halloumi fritters hit the spot nicely), it’s an impressive offering, full of bright flavours. Special dietary requirements are carefully noted and catered for, and ingredients are organic wherever possible. Service is swift but unhurried, and there’s a modest selection of cakes and flapjacks to end your meal on a sweet note – and fine coffee, too. Look out for a Calton Hill outpost in summer 2014, when Milk opens a branch at the Collective Gallery. + Interesting dishes, made with good ingredients and care - The café’s modest size and hard benches discourage lingering

Nardini’s 1 Merchiston Place, Southside (Map 3A: A4, 34) 0131 228 4641, nardinis.co.uk | £10 (lunch)

The Bruntsfield outpost of Largs’ celebrated café and ice-cream parlour is a gleaming, retro-themed place – chrome

Milk at Collective City Observatory & City Dome, Calton Hill, New Town See Arts Venues

4 Mimi’s Bakehouse & Mimi’s Picnic Parlour • 63 The Shore, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 26) 0131 555 5908, mimisbakehouse.com | £12 (lunch) • 250 Canongate, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 23) 0131 556 6632

Cake, cake and more cake. Marvel at the selection of sweet treats on offer at both Mimi’s Bakehouse and Mimi’s Picnic Parlour, as this family does its utmost to increase the size of our waistlines with its indulgent layer cakes, gooey brownies and moreish traybakes. The original Mimi’s on the Shore is a wide, open space, with an interior celebrating all things vintage. If you’re in need of something savoury to offset all of those sweet treats, you’ll find a good range of options. Daily specials include the likes of luxury stovies and hearty salads, and the soup and half-sandwich deal is great if you’re not quite hungry enough for one of the generous main dishes. Afternoon teas are decadent, featuring finger sandwiches and a selection of Mimi’s famous baked goods, and you can always upgrade your afternoon tea to include champagne if you’re in the mood to celebrate. A new addition to the Mimi’s family is The List Eating & Drinking Guide 57

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fittings, sparkling tiles and even little vibrating pizza slices to summon you to the counter when your food’s ready. Although not as extensive as that of the west coast emporium, the Edinburgh menu runs to freshly prepared panini with a good choice of fillings (beef, gherkin and horseradish is a moreish highlight), plus good-quality pastries and cakes – and, of course, the all-important ice-cream. Flavours tend towards the traditional – raspberry ripple and mint choc chip through to hazelnut and tablet – but there’s a rich array of dozens of generously filled sundaes on offer, from modest children’s offerings through to the mighty 12-scoop Clyde Coast Extravaganza, and enthusiastic staff to help out with choices. Kids are in their element, and adults can take advantage of the long opening hours and all-day menu for an indulgent breakfast or a late-night treat – while perhaps not challenging their ice-cream taste buds too much. + A huge range of indulgent ice-cream sundaes - Might have to queue for a table at busy times

New Town Deli • 42 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 19) 0131 558 3837 • 23 Henderson Row, New Town (Map 1A: D1, 35) 0131 622 7090, thenewtowndeli.com | £7.50 (sandwich & smoothie)

The lunch and breakfast rush hours see suits, skirts and sweats come together at New Town Deli, confident in the knowledge that while some things in life are uncertain, good food here is a sure thing. Blackboards above the display counter list a tempting range of smoothies, hot and cold pittas, wraps, sandwiches and some more substantial options such as meatballs and chips; all fillers are made on site, and a chicken, bacon and guacamole spinach wrap, cooked seconds before serving, is both zingy, filling and wickedly juicy. Breakfast boasts a board all to itself, with enough choice to cater for all tastes. Space may seem limited at first glance, but don’t be deceived, there is room aplenty, with people-watching perches round the windows, or a large square table in the centre, perfect for lunching with friends or colleagues, or just companionably eating alone. If Henderson Row is a step too far, fear not, New Town Deli also has a presence on Broughton Street. + Hot wraps - Difficulty finding a seat at lunchtime

Oink 34 Victoria Street, Old Town See Cafés: Wee Places

Palm Court The Balmoral Hotel, 1 Princes Street, New Town (Map 2A: D1, 2) 0131 556 2414, thebalmoralhotel.com | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Judging by the dressed-up couples, chatty groups and resident harpist playing ‘Happy Birthday’ every 15 minutes, it’s clear that people come to the Palm Court for special occasions. And there’s no denying this is a special place, where the neoclassical features, sparkling chandelier and aforementioned harpist are the icing on the cake of the faultlessly polite staff. Although open all day for breakfast and coffees, afternoon tea is the main draw and feels like an institution in its own right. A selection of somewhat prosaic finger sandwiches is followed by warmed scones with clotted cream and jam, then a trio of mini cakes and something sweet from the trolley. Your choice from a plethora of teas is brewed and then theatrically poured into a fresh 58 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

The Pantry: a day-to-evening neighbourhood cafe serving the best of Scotland’s larder

pot at your table to ensure its freshness, and you can add a glass of champagne to make the occasion extra-special. + The feeling of being looked after for an afternoon - The feeling that the food doesn’t quite live up to the surroundings or the price

The Pantry 1–2 North West Circus Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 25) 0131 6290 206, thepantryedinburgh.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

The Pantry pretty much epitomises relaxed neighbourhood dining. With whitewashed and mosaic-tiled walls, wooden tables and eclectic art, it’s all clean lines and laid-back cool. From breakfast fry-ups or leisurely lunches to coffee and cake or a sophisticated weekend dinner, they have it covered. There’s a roll-call of local suppliers that reads like a veritable bible of Scottish food producers, including many traders from the neighbouring Stockbridge Sunday market. With produce including Bower’s bacon, Liddesdale chicken and Lathockar lamb (supplied by former rugby international Rob Dewey), the Pantry proudly displays its local food credentials. At lunchtime, try the truffled Mull mac and cheese, a generously proportioned Reuben on rye sandwich featuring home salted beef and all the trimmings or a daily-changing stew or quiche. Evening dining sees things step up a notch, with a shortish menu offering the best of seasonal produce, such as steak with béarnaise sauce, tempura onion rings and hand-cut chips or roasted cod with samphire, calamari and a tomato and saffron velouté. + With a menu providing all-day dining options, you could easily spend the day here - Slimmer pickings for vegetarians

The Pastures 24 Marchmont Crescent, Southside (Map 3C: A2, 35) 0131 623 3606, pasturesedinburgh.co.uk | £4.50 (soup & sandwich)

The Pastures is homely with a community focus, from supporting local businesses to the broad mix of clientele. Owner Jane Kermack is extremely welcoming and attentive to her customers, and knows their every whim, just like a good pub landlady.

Not only is all food homemade, it’s also cooked to order. The Scotch beef burger is moist and succulent, and presented in a perfectly toasted bun with a range of sauces to choose from. Specials might include stovies and a chilli pasta bake. The sticky flapjack with oats, seeds, honey and syrup is a delight. Jane works closely with the local community, providing catering and working with them to create special evening events such as poetry nights and murder mysteries. For some good comfort food and a friendly chat, The Pastures is well worth a visit. + Quality of the beef burger - Due to popularity, seating is scarce

Patisserie Madeleine 27b Raeburn Place, Stockbridge See Cafés: Wee Places

Pekoe Tea 20 Leven Street, Tollcross See Cafés: Wee Places

Fashion is fickle, but at present, Scandinavia is the ‘new black’: the theme of scraped-back rustic simplicity is recurrent, and whether it is applied to the recent string of gripping and gritty murder mysteries, or to interior décor, food and drink, it is undeniably all that is achingly cool. Peter’s Yard, Edinburgh’s Swedish artisan bakery, personifies this theme, operating out of a gleaming glass building on the Quartermile. Plentiful seating is provided inside and out, and the vibe is upbeat and upmarket, tempered by the palpably comforting Scandinavian capability with which it is run, and the down-to-earth insistence that despite being mobbed by Edinburgh’s bright young student population, the focus is always the food. This is a bakery – and a damn good one! Chunky soups, sandwiches, cakes, bakes and scones can be selected from the display counter, and the content is guaranteed to be as wholesomely healthy as the portion size. + The wonderful bread - Seating is at a premium

Pep & Fodder 11 Waterloo Place, New Town (Map 1B: C6, 43) 0131 556 5119, pepandfodder. com | £7 (lunch)

In a stretch of town not exactly brimming with fine cafés, this little pearler from the Bon Vivant stable is a godsend. Just off the east end of Princes Street, Pep & Fodder captures the passing tourist and office trade, with a sprightly all-day menu ranging from breakfast staples – porridge, granola, bacon rolls – to great panini. It’s a simple room of wood panelling and vivid-green tiles, big picture windows onto the street and a row of high tables and stools (outdoor seats in warmer months too). There are hearty daily soups – say split pea and barley one day, red pepper the next – and a revolving lineup of salads, such as tuna, five bean, tomato and red onion. Quality is stamped through the menu, from smashing inhouse cakes and bakes – including a top-notch cheese scone – to coffee from Glasgow’s Dear Green roasters and tea from Eteaket. + Great cakes and bakes - Battling the lunchtime office trade

4 Peter’s Yard 27 Simpson Loan (Quartermile), Southside (Map 2A: B5, 57) 0131 228 5876, petersyard.com | £9 (lunch)

Peter’s Yard Stockbridge 3 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 12) 0131 332 2901, petersyard. com | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Plush and upmarket Meadows-based café Peter’s Yard has found a natural second home for itself in Stockbridge, where ladies and families who lunch can enjoy a superior selection of cakes, salads and Scandinavian-style open ryebread sandwiches during the day, with the menu opening out in the evening to encompass a sharing smorgasbord of meat and cheese with crispbread and chutney, as well as a signature sourdough pizza topped with salami ventricina, anchovies, Parma ham or a blend of vegetables. Like the pizzas (which are also available from noon Fri--Sun), all of the excellent variety of sourdough bread is cooked in-house, and is available by the loaf to take away. It’s a place which invests everything it does with a sense of quality, taking real care over flavour in, for example, the lemon and garlic cream cheese dressing on the smoked salmon or the beautifully smooth beetroot soup. The cakes also offer an intriguing selection, from a slice of iced parsnip cake to a pistachio-topped toffee triangle. + High-quality and inventive food - Not a lot of room for buggy access

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Porto & Fi

The Purple Pig Café

47 Newhaven Main Street, Leith (Map 5A: A2, off) 0131 551 1900, portofi.com | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

12 Leven Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 14) 0131 261 8067, thepurplepigcafe. co.uk | £8 (lunch)

The Newhaven area is not oversubscribed with dining options, and as such Porto & Fi is something of a lighthouse to lost souls wandering along the harbour. The bright, warm interior, perfumed with roasted coffee and wholesome home cooking, is the perfect antidote to the grey seascape outside, but if you are lucky enough to be in Edinburgh when the sun shines, the views across the Forth are breathtaking. Staples such as fish pie and burgers shore up the menu, augmented by some surprises like pheasant and pork belly, and the breakfasts (served all day on Sunday) are gratifying in both portion size and number of options. The cake and patisserie display is impressive, the generous portion of banoffee pie being particularly daunting and irresistible. + Great views over the Forth - Food is simple but pricey

This bright café, with its distinctive white and purple colour scheme, was opened in 2012 by a career-changing sister and brother duo, Laura Watson and Jason Coles. The steady stream of customers suggests that they have clearly found a niche in the local market. Open for both breakfast and lunch, the Purple Pig has a compact but well crafted menu. Diners can choose from homemade options such as bacon rolls, porridge or pancakes for breakfast or soup, sandwiches or quiche for lunch. There are also a range of simple traybakes and sweets, of which the millionaire’s shortbread with its crisp base and oozy caramel is especially good. Popular with parents, the café is well equipped for children, with several highchairs, a children’s toy box, changing facilities and a kids’ menu. The Purple Pig also does its best to help the local food economy survive as they source their meat, along with their fruit and vegetables, from local shops within a few metres of the premises. You can’t get much more neighbourly than that. + Straightforward, homemade food in a relaxed, kid-friendly environment - Molten macaroni cheese could do with less heating-up time

Printworks Coffee 42 Constitution Street, Leith (Map 5A: D2, 21) 0131 555 7070, printworkscoffee. co.uk | £7.50 (lunch)

One of those typically modern Leith food and drink conversions which benefits from a great space that would undoubtedly be prime property in the city centre, Printworks Coffee enjoys light from the ceiling-height windows that line the storefront. It’s a warm and relaxingly convivial space, which makes a feature – as the name might suggest – of the quality of its coffee. It’s one of the only places in the city to stock Monmouth, a strong and flavoursome brew particularly favoured by coffee-lovers and made here by qualified baristas. Their local sourcing is excellent, with cakes from Love Pure, bread from Dough Re Mi, soups from Union of Genius and teas from Pekoe tea, while the food offerings are simple but effective – breakfast baps and porridge during the week, French toast or smoked salmon and eggs on sourdough for weekend brunch, and a lunch menu of wraps, panini and antipasti sharing plates. + Great coffee - Not a wide range of food

Pulp Fiction Café Bookstore 43 Bread Street, Old Town (Map 4: D2, 30) 0131 229 4444, pulp-books.com | £5 (lunch) / £5 (dinner)

Tables and chairs are set between bookshelves in this small independent bookstore, specialising, as the name suggests, in fiction. During the day, casual browsers wander unhurriedly round the shop, and of an evening budding and published writers attend one of the writers’ groups that meet here four times a week. Stephen, the owner since autumn 2013, provides a warm welcome that creates a lovely atmosphere in which to enjoy a hot chocolate, small range of coffees and wider range of teas, with cow’s milk if you wish. Everything else is vegan or raw on a short menu including soups, fruit smoothies, a fruity cheesecake with nuts and dates, and falafel wraps. However, while hot drinks can be enjoyed daily, the smoothies and food are only served sporadically. It’s a good option for those on restricted diets – and, of course, it’s a treat for bookworms. + Warm welcome and relaxed environment - Food only provided on a very sporadic basis

Punjabi Junction 122–124 Leith Walk, Leith See Indian

Rabbie’s Café 6 Waterloo Place, City Centre (Map 2B: A1, 1) 0131 226 3133, rabbies.com

The highly successful Rabbie’s tour group has expanded its empire into the café trade. The first of several planned openings takes up residence in the group’s very glam new headquarters on Waterloo Place, a Georgian masterpiece of a building with views along Princes Street and across to Register House. Just opening as the guide went to press, the café plans to welcome passing trade and also service the many tour groups departing from the new mothership. This grand setting, with its oversize sash-and-case windows, modern tartan drapes and impressive stag horn chandelier, will dish up a menu of salads, panini, sandwiches, smoothies and juices, alongside 100% arabica beans from Brazil, roasted by Glasgow’s Italian Aroma, and teas from Edinburgh’s Eteaket. There’s plenty of experience behind the operation, with Davi Bersi, who formerly ran Café Mediterraneo on Broughton Street, in charge of the eco-friendly company’s hospitality. + The grand city-centre location - Negotiating the tour groups

The Roamin’ Nose 14 Eyre Place, New Town (Map 1B: A2, 11) 0131 629 3135, theroaminnose.com | £9 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Welcoming young families, local business people and visitors alike, this is a warm, friendly neighbourhood eatery open from breakfast fry-ups to late-evening cocktails – and it cuts no corners with its good, simple Italian cooking. Owner-chef Stefano Agostini’s lunchtime pastas are exceptionally well cooked and full of fresh flavours – the superb malloreddus (a bit like Sardinian gnocchi) with sausage, mushroom and tomatoes is a highlight – and there are flavoursome frittatas and burgers too, as well as daily specials. An Italian tapasstyle menu is on offer in the evenings, when lights dim in the stylish but comfortable bare-brick interior, and it’s complemented nicely by an inventive all-Italian wine list. Homemade cakes (including a moreish peanut butter chocolate slab) and desserts round off a

menu that’s small but beautifully judged – leaving room only for the good, strong Italian coffee. + Exceptionally well-cooked pasta, full of flavour - You may have to wait for a table at busy weekday lunchtimes

Rocket Café 41 Morningside Road, Southside (Map 3B: A2, 3) 0131 447 0377, rocketcafe. co.uk | £6 (lunch)

Colourful images adorn the walls of Rocket and there’s a lively atmosphere of constant conversation between customers of all ages in this popular Morningside café. Soup and sandwiches are the order of the day here, with options chalked up on boards behind the serving area. Aside from the lentil soup, two other hearty offerings change daily and there’s also a staff-recommended toastie each day. Cakes range from gluten-free brownies to a particularly popular New Zealand flapjack with golden syrup, coconut and sunflower seeds, as well as apple slices and carrot cake. Takeaway service caters to local workers and passing shoppers, making Rocket a handy pitstop when in the area. + Wide range of vegetarian options - Service can be rushed when busy

Ronde Bicycle Outfitters 66–68 Hamilton Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B1, 16) 0131 260 9888, rondebike.com | £8 (lunch)

A unique venue on the Edinburgh café scene, Ronde seamlessly blends a love of cycling with a love of good coffee and even better cake. Suki Bakes and Cuckoo’s Bakery are among many local suppliers that help to give Ronde a real community feel. If savoury is more your thing, tuck into one of two Union of Genius soups that are on offer daily. Future plans include developing the premises, which would benefit from a much larger café space, and with that would come further food options in the way of salads, sandwiches and the like. The surroundings, although perhaps somewhat unconventional, do work, and you’re sure to find yourself lost among the cycling-themed paraphernalia, even if you’re not a fanatical cyclist. A place where everyone seems to know everyone, Ronde is nothing if not welcoming. + Very welcoming atmosphere - Limited food options

S Luca of Musselburgh 16 Morningside Road, Southside (Map 3B: A1, 2) 0131 446 0233, s-luca.co.uk

S Luca have been making ice-cream since 1908, and clearly practice makes perfect: a couple of scoops of vanilla served in a retro ice-cream glass is a faultless spoonful of pleasure. Channelling the bright hubbub and strip-lit vibe of a 70s diner, S Luca is accessed via a spiral staircase that rises up from a chocolate shop, which Willy Wonka would have given a hearty seal of approval. The café bustles with children in for an après-school bite, and mothers with toddlers and babies, who, undaunted by the stairs, converge for a gossip and a coffee, safe in the certainty that noise levels won’t rile other patrons. Paninis, chips, soups, burgers and sandwiches are all on offer as a sideline to the main event, which is, of course, the ice-cream. + Vanilla ice-cream - Can be quite noisy

St Giles’ Cathedral Café St Giles’ Cathedral, High Street, Old Town See Arts Venues

The Scottish Café and Restaurant National Gallery of Scotland, The Mound, New Town See Scottish & Arts Venues

Skylark Café 40 Hamilton Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 15) 0131 225 4444, skylarkcafeedinburgh.com | £9.50 (lunch)

It’s a sweet little café on the edge of Stockbridge that holds its own with the area’s more established vendors, but where the Skylark Café really comes into its own is in its destination facilities for parents with young children. The entire back room has been converted into a large and well-stocked play area for kids, with sizeable baby-changing facilities and decent natural light from the back window. What’s more, owner Sandie Briggs’ mother runs a well-regarded, twice daily on weekdays Song Circle group for kids (book in advance or just drop in to Saturday’s event) as well as a participatory folk singing session every Friday night. The food choice is modest, but everything you could hope for from a local café, especially when entertaining small kids: there are sandwiches, homemade soups and nice cakes, as well as a small set of kids’ choices and good coffee and bacon rolls. The latter makes Skylark an undeservedly overlooked earlymorning breakfast stop in the face of more well-known local competition. + Excellent children’s facilities - No on-street parking nearby

The Skylark 241–243 High Street, Portobello See Bistros & Brasseries

TIP/,67 FOR COFFEE • Artisan Roast Edinburgh’s leading purveyors of the serious black stuff 61 • The Beach House Warm up with a coffee and slice of something scrummy by the seaside 52 • Brass & Copper Coffee Excellent lattes using Union Roasted beans 53 • Brew Lab Coffee geekery for the Southside cognoscenti 53 • Castello Coffee Co. Refreshingly independent coffee in the heart of the city centre 61 • Freemans Top brews and blends in a hip local hub 55 • French Press Taking bean counting seriously in the New Town 62 • Machina Espresso Serious coffee geekery and novel brewing methods in Tollcross 62

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TABLE Talk

CHARLIE CORNELIUS ON CYRENIANS FARM Cyrenians Farm is a social enterprise located just to the west of Edinburgh, near Kirknewton. It’s an inspiring place: a working farm, producing fruit, vegetables and free-range eggs, but it’s also home to a community of vulnerable young people, many with backgrounds of homelessness. By growing and selling the food, the farm in turn helps to provide a range of opportunities for individuals to develop skills and confidence and take steps towards a more settled lifestyle. As well as supplying a handful of shops and restaurants in Edinburgh, you can find them at the Balerno Farmers’ Market. Every week I speak to Stephen, the farm manager, to find out what is fresh and ripe for harvesting. Once I’ve made our order with him, I then decide where I am going to get the rest of our fresh vegetables from. Every Thursday, a couple of their guys deliver trays of eggs and whatever veg they have available. It’s more complicated than placing an order with our main organic vegetable supplier, Phantassie, but I’m happy to do it in the knowledge that this income stream increases their capacity to offer those sorts of opportunities and provide support to the young trainees. Not only that, but they also farm in a way that absorbs CO2 into the soil and helps to prevent soil erosion. At Iglu, we’re a Community Interest Company – a business whose primary objectives are to help benefit people and communities – and it’s in line with our core aims to aid and encourage a sustainable food system here in Scotland, as well as supporting other social enterprises wherever we can. Q Charlie Cornelius is kitchen director at Iglu, which was named Scottish Sustainable Restaurant of the Year at the 2014 Sustainable Restaurant Awards (see page 96). theiglu.com

Social Bite

Terrace Café

• 131 Rose Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 58) 0131 220 8206 • 89 Shandwick Place, West End (Map 4: B1, 23) 0131 220 8206, social-bite.co.uk | Closed Sat/Sun | £5.50 (lunch)

Royal Botanic Garden, Inverleith Row, Inverleith See Arts Venues

With two sandwich shops already open in Edinburgh, this young, expanding social food enterprise not only hopes to rival its high street competitors, but is also trying to tackle social injustices in Scotland and across the globe. Social Bite is an ambitious project set up by Alice Thompson and John Littlejohn after they were inspired by the notion of a ‘social business’ that seeks to make a positive change to society rather than personal wealth. In doing so, all profits are donated to Shelter Scotland, Vision Eye Care Hospital in Bangladesh and MicroLoan Foundation in Malawi and Zambia, as well as offering employment to ex-homeless people who make up a quarter of the staff. In addition to all this, the ‘Suspended’ coffee and meal scheme in the way of 99p or £2.50 donations invites the homeless people of Edinburgh to drop in throughout the day and enjoy a free hot drink or bite to eat. The menu that is put together by Michelin-star chef Mike Mathieson offers healthy breakfasts, soups and sandwiches. However, while their claim of local sourcing appears to add to this altruistic mission, the perfectly sliced brown bread sandwiches (filled with avocado and Spanish chorizo) suggest otherwise. + Commendable interventions that contribute to alleviating local social issues - Cavalier interpretation of ‘local’ and ‘seasonal’ ingredients

Edinburgh Festival Theatre, 13/29 Nicolson Street, Old Town See Arts Venues

Spoon 6a Nicolson Street, Old Town See Bistros & Brasseries

Th’eatery

Toast 146 Marchmont Road, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

The Treehouse 44 Leven Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: B2, 19) 0131 656 0513 | £7 (lunch)

Right next to Bruntsfield Links, the friendly, laid-back Treehouse Café is well located for a fresh, filling sit-in lunch, or a picnic to take out onto the grass. While the café came under new ownership in spring 2014, just as this guide was going to press, it carries a reputation as a place that proudly serves its community: students, NHS workers and Filmhouse/Cameo members get a 10 per cent discount, and kids are positively welcomed. Expect generous portions of nononsense, fresh and delicious food at surprisingly reasonable prices. Things start early with creamy scrambled eggs and smoked salmon or freshly made American pancakes for breakfast, and there’s daily changing soup, stackem-high club sandwiches and stuffedfull toasties for lunch. Come in as a Treehouse newbie and you’ll leave feeling like one of the regulars. + Good, fresh food in generous portions - The introduction of wifi might encourage diners to stay longer and try the enticing range of cakes

Two Thin Laddies The Storytelling Café Scottish Storytelling Centre, 43 High Street, Old Town See Arts Venues

The Suburban Pantry 12 Hillhouse Road, Blackhall See Bistros & Brasseries

103 High Riggs, Tollcross (Map 4: D2, 47) 0131 229 0653, lacasacastilla.co.uk | £9 (lunch)

Two Thin Laddies has a homely, welcoming atmosphere, helped along by a mixed clientele of loyal locals locals who create a warm vibe that works well with the friendly, relaxed service. New

management took over in December 2013, and there are plans to introduce some Spanish options on to the menu, as well as a hoped-for alcohol licence. The Spanish influence in the generously portioned chicken quesadillas already makes a lively dish. The specials are not extensive, but worth a look, and there’s gluten-free bread available. If the proposed changes come to fruition, Two Thin Laddies will become a talking point in the Tollcross area, assuming the passion of the new staff feeds through to the quality of the food. + Friendly and helpful staff - Super busy at lunchtimes

Union of Genius 8 Forrest Road, Old Town See Cafés: Wee Places

Urban Angel • 1 Forth Street, New Town • 121 Hanover Street, New Town See Bistros & Brasseries

Valvona & Crolla Caffè Bar 19 Elm Row, Leith Walk, New Town (Map 5B: A5, 24) 0131 556 6066, valvonacrolla. co.uk | £25 (lunch)

Even making it through to the light and airy café at Edinburgh institution Valvona & Crolla (which celebrates its 80th birthday during summer 2014) is a bit of a challenge – first you have to negotiate the astonishingly well-stocked deli area out front, where meats, cheeses, pastas, wines and sundry other fine Italian items will probably waylay you. And they’re ingredients you can sample

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps and links, go to

food.list.co.uk

Gran Caffè (page 56): seafood platters and bountiful cakes amid the legislation literature 60 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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in the upstairs café’s small but carefully considered menu – a fine antipasto selection, for example, offers meltin-the-mouth mozzarella, tasty cured meats and rich roasted veg. Elsewhere, homemade pizzas are crisp and tasty, pastas are nicely cooked, and there are good meat and fish dishes from liver to monkfish. Desserts revolve around tasty gluten-free cakes – both marmalade and chocolate varieties are deeply flavoured, for example. A reliably good, authentic taste of Italy. + Reliably good food made using highquality ingredients - High prices make it something of a treat

CAFES: THE WEE PLACES

11 Multrees Walk, New Town See Italian

This newest section of the guide celebrates the eclectic range of tiny delis, artisan bakehouses, tea specialists, hog roasters and some of the finest coffee hangouts in town. Some have no seats, others just a few perching stools, and few have room for more than half a dozen people, but all bring their own brand of colour and personality to the capital. They might be wee places, but they’re certainly worth knowing about.

4 The Water of Leith Café Bistro

Reviewers: Poppy Baggott, Hannah Ewan, David Kettle, Chiara Pannozzo, Fraser Paterson, Tracey Reilly

Valvona & Crolla Vincaffè

52 Coburg Street, Leith (Map 5A: B2, 34) 0131 555 2613, thewaterofleithcafebistro.co.uk | £10.95 (set lunch)

Tucked away on a quiet back street in Leith, the Water of Leith Café Bistro boasts a loyal following, won over by the truly family-friendly atmosphere and excellent, well-priced bistro fare. Owners Ana and Mickael Mesle clearly love what they do, and their passion infuses every inch of the operation. Ana provides the warmest greeting front of house while classically trained Breton chef Mickael whips up traditional French dishes – the croque monsieur is justifiably legendary – and a dazzling array of cakes and desserts. The daily specials are particularly appealing, with such offerings as baked four-cheese macaroni, and chicken and ham hock pie served with bubble and squeak. At £10.95 for two courses and £13.95 for three, it would be rude to say no to mango and pineapple pavlova, a slice of flan pâtissier or a beautifully moist pear and almond tart. With a regularly changing art display, a communal knitting bag and the happy hubbub of well-fed families, this is simply one of the nicest spots in the city in which to indulge yourself for a few hours. + Great food and great service – an allround gem - Not open evenings except for large groups

Word of Mouth 3a Albert Street, Leith (Map 5B: A4, 15) 0131 554 4344, wofmcafe.com | £4.50 (set lunch)

Word of Mouth has a polished, clean interior, with a hint of French in its décor. The mix of clientele enjoy a relaxed atmosphere where staff are approachable and helpful and children are very welcome. The basic menu runs from breakfast through lunch – swaps are not possible with the breakfast choices, but options are varied. A lunch deal of soup of the day and a sandwich with a choice of two fillings is available during weekdays. Variety comes in the form of six generous and very tasty croques, and daily made scones. In fact all of the bakes are homemade, and make a lovely accompaniment to award-winning Suki tea, or ethical coffee from Matthew Algie. + Quality service - Menus are beginning to look a bit shabby

Yellow Bench 31 Crighton Place, Leith Walk, Leith See Round the World

The Zulu Lounge 366 Morningside Road, Southside See Cafés: Wee Places

Affogato 36 Queensferry Street, West End See Cafés

Anteaques 17 Clerk Street, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 10) 0131 667 8466, anteaques.co.uk | Closed Mon–Thu | £6 (lunch)

One of a kind in Edinburgh, this tea room is in the middle of a curios shop where various collectables and vintage items tempt the wallet while you savour a pot of delightful brew. Jazz and classical music fills each room, as does a predominantly student clientele with an appreciation of the surroundings. Staff provide friendly and attentive table service, and are happy to answer questions about the tea and the antiques. The shelves are lined with tea caddies filled with over 70 different blends of loose tea, and there’s a relatively small choice of food – just five homemade cakes on offer – all served on vintage china and pretty cake stands. At the weekend a selection of speciality tarts is also available, including one glutenfree and one vegan option. The locally made organic truffles are very rich, making it a challenge to have more than one. Booking is advisable due to the size of the place and its popularity, but visit once and you’ll be determined to become a regular. + Delightful setting and excellent service - No toilets

Appetite Direct 42 Howe Street, New Town (Map 1A: C3, 33) 0131 225 3711, appetitedirect.com | Closed Sat/Sun | £7.50 (lunch)

Though the little Stockbridge-adjacent takeaway is a second string to this events catering business’s bow, it’s certainly not an afterthought. It wouldn’t be fair to describe this as a sandwich shop: they have a range of filled baguettes in the chiller, but the main space is given over to reheatable daily specials like spaghetti with chunky meatballs or minted lamb burgers. At least four daily salads might include a medley of roast veg with purple potatoes or smoked chicken with elderflower and tarragon dressing, and can be piled into a takeaway carton or eaten alongside the curries they’re best known for: aromatically spiced dhal is particularly good. There are just four chairs inside and a few more outdoors; it’s really a lunch pitstop popular with local mums and office workers, who welcome the Artisan Roast coffee too. + Restaurant-quality lunches at takeaway prices - Not a lot in the way of pudding selection

Artisan Roast • 138 Bruntsfield Place, Southside, Map 3A: A3, 31) 07956 355054, artisanroast. co.uk | £7 (lunch) • 57 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 24) 07590 590667, artisanroast. co.uk | £4.50 (coffee and cake)

A renaissance of coffee drinking in Edinburgh, and burgeoning appreciation of beans, blends and baristas, can largely be attributed to one company and two tiny cafés. Seeking to purge Scotland’s capital of mediocre coffee, and raise up the café experience to an irreproachable level, the seemingly unachievable has been achieved: all hail Artisan Roast! Arguably the purveyors of the best beans in town, Gustavo Pardo’s Bruntsfield and Broughton Street cafés are now an integral part of the Edinburgh experience; aesthetically well-worn, wooden and cosily dark inside, the vibe is intimate but unobtrusive: with the focus on the coffee and the conversation, this is a place to take a friend not a laptop. The menu spotlights the coffee, with the only other sustenance being teas, some rather unusual hot chocolates and cakes and soup from local suppliers. With coffee tastings on Thursdays, story telling evenings, and live music every couple of months, there is absolutely every reason to check this place out. + Attitude, atmosphere and great coffee - Quite tight on space in both branches

The Baked Potato Shop 56 Cockburn Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 13) 0131 225 7572 | £4.99 (set lunch) / £7 (dinner)

This tiny, six-seat café bursts with character even when quiet. Posters covering everything from gypsy orchestras to tattoo conventions adorn the walls. Most of the trade is lunchtime tourists going up to the Royal Mile from Waverley, and a strong vegetarian and vegan clientele thanks to the shop’s nomeat stance. The Baked Potato Shop’s long-standing mission is to provide ‘the hottest tattie in town’, proving that a hot flavour does not need to be carnivorous. A small potato will satisfy most appetites, although medium and large options are also on offer. There is a tremendous choice of hot and cold fillings, the vast majority of which are vegan, and these delicious fillings can also be packed into a roll for a cold lunch on the hoof. A small range of snacks and salad are also available, plus a few cakes including a vegan carrot cake which, although could do with more punchy flavours, has its heart in the right place, just like this little café. + Generous portions - Plastic cutlery prone to breaking

La Barantine 202 Bruntsfield Place, Southside See Cafés

Bollywood: The Coffee Box 99a Bruntsfield Place, Southside See Indian

4 Caffè Espresso 15 Bank Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C2, 19) 0131 220 4400 | £7 (lunch)

Tiny Caffe Espresso is packed out at lunchtimes, with a loyal takeaway clientele of local office workers and a smattering of tourists. The atmosphere is jovial, with banter provided by owner Stephano while preparing all sandwiches fresh to order. A choice of ten baguettes are available, including their famous signature Number 9 – chicken halal with a choice of three hot sauces. There are also ciabattas, focaccias, wraps and bagels, all with ingredients that can be mixed and matched. Two soups and two pastas are offered at lunchtime,

4 HITLIST

CAFES: WEE PLACES 4 Caffè Espresso Fight the many regulars for a seriously pleasing sandwich and a side of cheery Italian banter.

4 The Chocolate Tree The best, most ethically sourced hand-made chocolates and cakes Edinburgh can offer, in charmingly boho surroundings.

4 The Manna House A bakerycum-café whose attention to detail attracts loyal followers city-wide: everything here is made on site.

4 Union of Genius A trailblazing soup café serving big, healthy flavours with artisan bread. Extra points for environmental awareness.

including one vegetarian option, and usually with an Italian flavour. Some of the bread and cakes are home baked, and gluten-free bread is available, as are vegan cakes and shortbread. A word of warning though: seating is limited to just seven spots, so get there early if you plan to sit in, or phone your order in advance if you want to skip the queues. + Happy atmosphere generated by Stefano that fills the whole café - Very limited seating and no toilets

Casa Angelina 42 London Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 14) 0131 558 1002, casaangelina. co.uk | Closed Mon | £10 (lunch)

It can’t be often that patisserie and fancy dress coincide, but when they do it’s a marvellous thing. Casa Angelina is run by two pastry chefs with a passion for cakes and vintage styling. Soups, croques and sandwiches on homemade bread are the savoury options before the main cake event – and oh, what beautiful cakes! Repeat custom will be necessary just to try them all. The afternoon tea (book ahead) is one of the best in town – think mini salads, tartlets and bruschetta followed by fresh-as-can-be scones then eclairs, fruit tarts, cheesecakes . . . If you can finish it all, hats off to you. Children are more than welcome, and the tearoom can be booked for any type of private party that would benefit from cakes and fancy dress – from hen parties to baby showers. Oh, and you can take your own fizz if you want to do it in style. + Arguably the capital’s best afternoon tea - The kids’ toy box could do with a refresh

Castello Coffee Co. 7 Castle Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 55) 0131 225 9780, castellocoffee.co.uk | £4.80 (set lunch)

Owner Sandro del Greco began Castello Coffee Co on the basis of its high-quality coffee and is proudly still the only place in Scotland that serves Allpress Espresso roasted in London. The List Eating & Drinking Guide 61

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Non-coffee drinkers can expect the same effort made over their hot drinks, with teas from Welsh producers Waterloo Tea and hot chocolate from the local chocolatiers Edward and Irwyn. Bagels, paninis and sourdough toasties are prepared on site using bread delivered each morning by Dough Re Mi in Polwarth. Another local bakery, Leo’s Beanery, is called upon for their pastries and cakes. Sandro puts his own twist on the croissants, filling some with Parma ham and Gouda cheese, and others with chocolate and banana. It is not only encouraging to find an independent café surviving in the heart of Edinburgh’s main shopping strip, packed out otherwise with chain businesses, but one that selects other independent producers to supplement its menu and keep the standard high. + The big-flavoured soups cooked on their tiny stove - Still no toilet

4 The Chocolate Tree 123 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: B3, 29) 0131 228 3144, thechocolate-tree.co.uk | £8 (lunch)

An especially ethical and lovely experience is to be had in the Chocolate Tree, which makes all cakes, truffles and ice-cream at their country kitchen in Haddington. This is certainly a wee place: with only twelve seats available it is always advisable to book in advance. A mixed bunch of students and shoppers frequent this cosy café, where service is friendly and knowledgable and the

TIP/,67 FOR SNACKS ON THE GO • The Baked Potato Shop A host of vegetarian and vegan options fill fluffy tatties for lunch or dinner 61 • Bollywood: The Coffee Box This true one-off brings a splash of colour to Bruntsfield Links 75 • Henderson’s Shop & Deli to city-centre veggies at any time of day 62 • Los Cardos Hearty burritos and spicy quesadillas for a snack with bite 84 • Mimi’s Picnic Parlour Grab a picnic and head to Holyrood Park – and don’t forget the cakes 57 • Oink Hog roast rolls with crackling and apple sauce – now with two outlets in the Old Town 63 • Tupiniquim Classy crêpes and soulful smoothies for a Meadows lunch 90 • Union of Genius Some of the capital’s best soup is bolstered by summertime salads for lunch in the park 64 62 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

menu is a chocolate-lover’s paradise. Ice-cream flavours include pistachio and mandarin, and there’s a vast choice of organic, single-origin hot chocolates with some special flavour combos including almond and amaretto, and almost as wide a variety of teas, ranging from bagged to herbal. Small dishes of all sorts of chocolate products are dotted around the shop so you can try before you buy. Chocolate bars are prepared from scratch, from bean to bar using organic cacao beans. This is a must-visit place if you’re serious about chocolate – and it’s worth a trip across town to get here. + Quality of produce combined with focus on ethical sourcing - Very limited seating

Copper Bird Café 129 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 52) 07746 942830, copperbird.co.uk | Closed Sat/Sun | £4.70 (set lunch)

Edel Porter’s hobby used to be making cupcakes, until a friend encouraged her to start selling them and she moved from behind a desk at big finance companies to behind a cake stall in their canteens. Her coffee and cake shop, opened in spring 2013, will have perked up the lunches of Edinburgh’s business district. Stylishly old-fashioned in its décor, there are copper-topped tables and a welcomingly independent vibe, with vintage chairs that Porter reupholstered herself and bird-themed art work by her sister. She now makes her feather-light cupcakes – from banoffee to apple and custard – for the café, alongside the likes of dairy milk tiffin, lemon crunch cake and chocolate brownies. The menu is kept deliberately simple, featuring a few daily cakes, soup and sarnie deals (using Patisserie Joldo’s artisan bread) and her popular wraps: rice, pick-and-mix fillings and sauces, and slow-cooked meat from Bower’s in Stockbridge – every day is chicken or falafel day, with alternating pork and beef. + Seriously reasonable prices across the board - A bit out of the way for non-financiers

Embo 29 Haddington Place, Leith Walk, New Town (Map 5B: A5, 18) 0131 652 3880, embo-deli.com | Closed Sun | £8 (lunch)

Be prepared to grab a bar stool or share a table where you can amid the quirky furnishings and decorations of Mike Marshall’s bijou Leith Walk café. His generous, flavoursome food, though, more than makes up for any seating area size issues. The menu isn’t huge, but it’s well thought out and expertly executed – daily changing smoothies, hot dishes and treats show a creative flair (a warm, homebaked spinach muffin with pesto, for example, is light and moreish), and salads are piled high with good, fresh ingredients – the hot-smoked trout choice is particularly fine. Things start early with breakfasts of a nicely creamy pesto scrambled eggs and more smoked trout, plus pastries and robust coffee, and service comes with a warm welcome and pride in the establishment’s good food. If you’ve any room left, sample one of the several homemade cakes that adorn the counter. It might be little, but it’s a gem of a place. + Good, simple, fresh food at reasonable prices - You may have to wait for a space to sit, or share a table

French Press Coffee Company 25a Dundas Street, New Town (Map 1A: D3, 36) 0131 556 4336, frenchpresscoffeecompany.co.uk | Closed Sun | £7 (lunch)

Rubbing shoulders with the gallerists and art dealers on a stretch of the New Town

famed for its commercial galleries, French Press Coffee Company is a tiny space with a carefully curated menu. Husband and wife team John and Gail Thomson opened the stylish establishment in April 2012 to showcase hip gourmet brands such as North Berwick’s Steampunk coffee and specialist tea suppliers Canton Tea Co alongside a sandwich list created in collaboration with award-winning Edinburgh chef Paul Wedgwood. From early in the morning, worker bees stop in for granola or a breakfast muffin to accompany their artisan coffee, which comes in the familiar espresso-based concoctions or as a filter brew by means of V60, aeropress, French press or chilled over ice. There’s a tempting hot chocolate selection including rose and black pepper or chilli, cinnamon and vanilla. The sandwich menu is judiciously short and appealing – try the house-favourite venison salami with gherkin mayo and rocket for a savoury and tangy bite. + A coffee shop offering real culinary craftsmanship - Minimal places to sit and enjoy

Gaia Delicatessen 32 Crighton Place, Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A3, 13) 0131 553 7333, gaiadeliedinburgh.co.uk | £8 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

It’s a surprise from the modest shop front slotted in along Leith Walk that this family-run café and deli reaches as far back to include 15 covers, a deli and kitchen. Floor-to-ceiling shelves filled with imported Italian foodstuffs span the middle section and lead on to the main display counter filled with cold meats and cheeses. The Dragotta family stress their home cooking as the ethos behind what they do and even prepare a homemade ‘Sicilian Feast’ to take away as an evening meal. In addition to their menu, changing specials include three pasta dishes, a soup and three panini fillings. It’s the father, Nunzio, who heads the kitchen and his pasta puttanesca carries a flavour that’s nothing short of the heady anchovy, black olive and tomato mix you’d hope for from an experienced Italian cook. As your belly begins to fill, which it will, take time over an Italian coffee and sweet specialities including tiramisu or Sicilian cannoli. + The deli allows you to take everything you enjoyed home - At maximum capacity, it’s perhaps a little too cosy

Henderson’s Shop & Deli 92 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 85) 0131 225 6694, hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk | £5 (lunch)

This welcoming deli-café is the more bustling upstairs half of the city’s famous basement vegetarian restaurant on Hanover Street. Like its downstairs partner, Henderson’s Shop & Deli celebrated its 50th birthday in 2013. Quiches, focaccia pizzas and potato croquettes are just some of the warm lunchtime mains that can be boxed up alongside a terrific selection of salads from what is certainly one of the best salad bars in town. The deli’s mix and match meal deals cater for the steady buzz of worker bees at lunchtime, while the few tables by the window provide an excellent spot to sip on a freshly ground coffee (or squeezed fruit juice) and watch the world go by. Homemade soups are changed daily and served with bread baked on the premises every morning, loaves of which can also be purchased in the shop. The dark wood shelves are well-stocked with wines, ground coffees, chutneys and other luxury items that would make up an enviable larder. + High-quality ingredients throughout - Limited seating

Henri of Edinburgh 376 Morningside Road, Southside See Cafés

Hernandez & Co. 31a Queensferry Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 12) 0131 225 5332, hernandezandco.com | Closed Sat/Sun | £3.50 (set lunch)

Scan the shelves of Maite Hernandez’s sunny little sandwich shop and you’ll quickly notice a theme: a chorizo, roast chicken and paprika mayo baguette; a serrano ham and Manchego filled croissant; a potato, Cantabrian linecaught tuna, egg and piquillo pepper salad . . . her Spanish roots infuse almost all the food on offer here. Ex-pats ask her to source packets of Spanish lentils for them, and flock nostalgically for Cola Cao, the hot chocolate every Spanish child has with breakfast, in takeaway cups or retail packs. Hernandez sources her main ingredients from Spain, but uses some good local suppliers too, predominantly Au Gourmand bread and Equal Exchange’s organic, ethical ‘Grown by Women’ coffee range. Daily soups are chunky with the likes of pinto beans, chorizo and morcilla (Spanish black pudding), or potato and chorizo. The only areas limited in choice are patisserie (a brownie or pain au chocolat to choose between) and veggie options. + Fantastic spicy chorizo - A bit more greenery would be welcome in sarnies

Kiki’s 28 Grindlay Street, West End (Map 4: C1, 33) 07534 429699 | Closed Sun | £3.70 (set lunch)

Deliberating over the Italian cheeses and meats for your toasted panini can take time in this family-run sandwich shop. Thankfully, owners Tiziano Nardone and Annalisa Coppola are more than happy to guide you through the provolone and Bel Paese, prosciutto crudo and salami Milano options. Soups and sandwiches can be guaranteed daily, but come on the right day and there will also be lasagne and pasta with homemade pesto, bolognese or meatball sauce. Right across from the Traverse Theatre, you can sit in on stools at the bench in the window, and enjoy a quick bite before or after matinee performances. Regulars takeaway their coffee, often with a slice of peanut butter or marshmallow brownie that quickly sells out. A catering service aimed at neighbouring offices is also available and orders from further afield can be delivered. + The moist Victoria Sponge loaded with fresh cream and strawberry jam - Serving with plastic cutlery, paper cups and bowls when dining in

Machina Espresso 2 Brougham Place, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 10) 0131 229 3495, machinaespresso.co.uk

A serried rank of coffee machines line one wall of this bright and welcoming little Tollcross café, showcasing the latest Chemex, V60 and Aeropress coffee systems plus a range of filters, grinders and accessories. Staff here really know their stuff (the word ‘geek’ is used regularly) and are happy to answer any coffee-related questions you might have, while a huge blackboard gives a visual guide to the various brew methods, helping to work out the right style for you. The espresso blends used in the lattes, flat whites and piccolos change regularly and are sourced from Glasgow’s Dear Green and North Berwick’s Steampunk. Food is limited to soup and locally baked cakes, scones and pastries, although there are plans to offer more over the summer. And although

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Natural Foods Etc 55 Clerk Street, Southside (Map 3C: D2, 13) 0131 662 0820, naturalfoodsetc. co.uk | £9 (lunch)

The rather decadent burnished copper frontage of this late 2013 arrival contrasts a little with its clean living ethos, but with positivity emerging from every pore, the bold approach does reflect a warm, confident aura. Essentially a retail space with organic, free-from, fair-trade and speciality whole foods and goods stacked along each wall, a long, central wooden table allows it to double up as a café. With a downstairs kitchen offering a range of soups, crêpes, salads, smoothies, cakes and hot drinks – mostly sourced from small artisan operations in and around Edinburgh if not created in house – it makes a pleasantly unusual spot for lunch. The set-up includes two therapy rooms for complementary health and beauty treatments. + Positive ethos - Set-up doesn’t encourage lingering

New Town Deli 42 Broughton Street, New Town See Cafés

New Town Deli Pig in a Poke (page 64): keeping things simple, with 18-hour roast pork rolls, crackling and stuffing

this place is clearly focused on coffea arabica, there is also tea from Anteaques and some properly good hot chocolate to be had. + One of the best flat whites in Edinburgh - Not having £1500 to spend on a coffee machine

Maialino 34 William Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 59) 0131 477 7778, maialino.co.uk | £5 (lunch)

Claudio Sapienza has focused his stylish new deli/café on the simplicity of good cheese and charcuterie, from his native and adopted countries Italy and Britain. Bresaola, finocchiona (fennel salami), speck and pastrami are sliced to order from the joint, wrapped in soft artisan baguettes and accompanied by such hand-made flourishes as fig relish, pickled cucumber, cranberry chutney or walnut pesto. Pancetta is his best seller, with smoked scamorza cheese and caramelised red onion chutney – the pancetta is also very popular with local office workers in breakfast rolls. Seasonal, gluten-free soups are made fresh every morning – sweet potato and chilli is silky smooth – and salads are healthily interesting: roast butternut squash, for example, with baby spinach, feta, toasted walnuts and blackcurrant dressing. Undo all that with a sweetly wrapped – but more important fudgily delicious – raspberry cheesecake brownie. With Sapienza’s barista background good coffee is a given, but tea is also well sourced from local company Eteaket. + Good value, good quality, good flavours - Remembering the name

4 The Manna House 22–24 Easter Road (Map 5B: C5, 29) 0131 652 2349, themannahousebakery.co.uk | £7 (lunch)

Half bakery, half café, the Manna House shows all-round dedication to excellent food, whether that’s a best-selling pain de campagne loaf to take home, a creamy slab of quiche or an elegantly chocolatecrammed patisserie with Eteaket tea. Absolutely everything is made on site, and it’s that rare sandwich shop where the bread is as important as the fillings. Porchetta is paired with light rye donker bread; mozzarella with a spelt and honey roll. Salad isn’t a boring dish either,

when your five choices include a melee of curried cauliflower, cannellini beans, pecans and chard. Every day of the week they hand-make croissants and Danish pastries, a process that takes three days. The setting is laid-back, unstyled but not un-stylish, with industrial tin lampshades that look like they were there before featuring them became interior-design law. Seating for 16 fills up quickly at lunch and weekends, but they do an increasingly roaring takeaway trade. + Cake for everyone, vegans and glutenintolerants included - Sharing the staff loo

Marie Delices 125 Comiston Road, Southside (Map 3B: A5, off) 0131 447 1909, mariedelices. co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon

A little corner of France in south Morningside, Marie Delices is the fruition of French native Marie-Claire Lafont’s long-held passion for Brittany and its most famous foods – les crêpes. Bright pink and lilac mark out this friendly café on Comiston Road. Inside, the room is brought to life by pretty crockery from Quimper and a collection of antique furniture that once belonged to Marie’s grandparents, and there are French magazines dotted around the place, so you can improve your French while you’re here. The crêpes and galettes are made in the traditional Breton way, using buckwheat flour imported from a family-run mill in France. This naturally gluten-free flour gives a distinctive nutty flavour to the crêpes, which can be filled with sweet or savoury ingredients, comme vous voulez. There are also cakes and biscuits made fresh by Marie each morning, and as if that wasn’t enough, the café is licensed so you can sample a Breton cider with your lunchtime galette. + Les crêpes! - Those who don’t live locally will be envious

Mary’s Milk Bar 19 Grassmarket, Old Town (Map 2A: A3, 37) 0131 629 6526, marysmilkbar.com | Closed Mon | £5 (lunch)

Inspired by the milk bars that flourished in the mid-20th century, Mary Hillard’s gelateria mixes pretty Art Deco pastel style with up-to-date flavours. A professional chocolatier with an art

degree as well as a spell at Bologna’s Carpigiani Gelato University behind her, presentation is as important as taste here. Gelato flavours change as experimentation, the seasons or requests dictate, but always include chocolate, something nutty (beer and cashew, for example), something plain and a dairyfree sorbet such as poached pear and Marsala, so smooth it could be mistaken for ice-cream. Bovril is the only savoury thing on the menu, so relish the sweet drinks: little cups of thick, rich, hot chocolate in flavours like orange and cardamom, with or without an ice-cream float, or milkshakes from the retro shakemaker. Hand-made chocolates, jars of salted caramel and 750ml ice-cream tubs can be bought to take away, and Hillard runs ‘Sundae School’ tasting evenings so you too can become a gelato expert. + Trying all the flavours at once in the mighty Challenge Cup sundae - After sampling this, a Mr Whippy just won’t cut it any more

23 Henderson Row, New Town See Cafés

Oink • 82 Canongate, Old Town (Map 2B: D2, 30) 07584 637416, oinkhogroast.co.uk | • 34 Victoria Street, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 27) 07771 968 233, oinkhogroast. co.uk | £5 (lunch)

Everyone’s favourite wedding buffet, the roasted hog takes centre stage in the windows of both Oink branches. It’s all about the pig here: the takeaways are an

Meadowberry 100 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: B3, 28) 07592 147363, meadowberry. co.uk | £2.85 (small frozen yogurt)

A little ray of sunshine on Bruntsfield Links, Meadowberry is all about frozen yoghurt. Specifically the health benefits of froyo, which has the same ‘treat’ factor as ice-cream but without the fat or added sugar. In an area that has historically been home to some thriving small businesses but is now increasingly seeing the arrival of big chains, Karolina and Daniel at Meadowberry make a point of supporting local businesses and suppliers, such as Freemans for coffee and Stoats for their porridge oats. In the bright, welcoming (and tiny) café there’s a menu offering smoothies, muesli and sometimes pancakes, but the main attraction is of course the frozen yogurt. There’s a choice of two flavours – natural and a second one that changes every couple of days, maybe berry, maybe coffee – or you can have some of each. Add your choice of topping and dive in. If the sun’s shining, it’ll taste even better. + A friendly independent doing things their way - Not enough sunny days to celebrate

Mimi’s Picnic Parlour 250 Canongate, Old Town See Cafés The List Eating & Drinking Guide 63

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outlet for the owners’ own farm animals, which you’ll also see at Edinburgh Farmers’ Market every Saturday. The pork is pulled directly from the piggy in the window, and serving choices are simple: brown or white roll, haggis or sage and onion stuffing (or both), apple or chilli sauce, crackling or not. That’s it, in a variety of sizes – sorry, vegetarians, this one’s not for you. Juicy, gigantic and requiring a lot of napkins, it’s a brave luncher who goes for anything above the classic ‘oink’ in size. Expect to takeaway; seating is particularly limited on Victoria Street (to eight chairs). The larger Canongate outlet opened in August 2013: it’s a better bet for sitting in, though don’t bring a coach-load of friends as it still counts as a ‘Wee Place’. + Quick, delicious, and impeccable provenance - Falling asleep at your desk afterwards

Papii 101 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 91) 0131 220 5682 | £4.25 (set lunch)

Merely entering Papii on a dreich Edinburgh lunchtime feels revitalising: the pale-blue walls, brushed white wood furniture and bright shutters adorning the walls evoke a beach-hut feeling, even before you cast your eye over the goodies on offer. The holiday vibe continues throughout the menu with an eclectic mix of Oreo milkshakes, waffles and spanakopita nuzzling up against more traditional panini, patisserie and sandwiches. Even with the café staples, the locally sourced bread and fresh, wellprepared ingredients are imaginatively combined into stand-out signature creations such as the Meatball Hero – a rich, spicy, gooey feast for which the term ‘sandwich’ feels inadequate (and puts certain high-street sandwich chains’ limp offerings to shame) – while eggs are Florentined and Benedicted to perfection. At Papii a quick pitstop lunch can feel like a sunny treat – no matter if the weather agrees. + A break from the city, in the city - Heading back to work afterwards

shop. Order from the selection of Oolong teas and watch the traditional Gongfu tea-making ritual take place. The Shui Xian variety, a dark green leaf, is smoky on the first pour and develops a creamy taste when the pot is refilled with fresh hot water. The staff are extremely informed about the products they carefully source and are willing to share their knowledge with you when you stop by. The weekly drop-in tea club on Thursday evenings is a particularly good and informal opportunity to learn more. + Macarons supplied by the local Patisserie Madeleine - It will take along time to get through the entire tea menu

Pig in a Poke 95 Rose Street, New Town (Map 1A: C5, 62) 0131 226 1616, piginapoke.co | £5.80 (set lunch)

Opened in late 2013, Pig in a Poke is run by Niall Middleton, who has a longstanding track record in providing hogroasts at festivals and other events. The pig is pretty much the whole point of this place and the 18-hour roasted porker is proudly displayed in the window to tempt passers-by. It’s a cheery wee spot once inside, with retro pendant light fittings, diner-style menu boards and a chunky wooden counter top. There’s a corner bench to perch on while you snarf your sarnie and sip your coffee (from Artisan Roast) and they also serve soup from Union of Genius. Pork rolls come in two sizes, regular and with extra meat, and can be served in white or wholegrain rolls or wraps. Condiments include mustard, chilli, BBQ or apple sauce, with optional coleslaw or red cabbage on top. You can further pimp your piggy by adding or omitting crackling or stuffing. The rolls are soft; the pork is moist and tender and the crackling snaps satisfyingly: this little piggy has it in the bag. + Proper crunchy crackling - Little said about where their pork comes from and how it is reared

Pulp Fiction Café Bookstore

The Pastures

43 Bread Street, Old Town See Cafés

24 Marchmont Crescent, Southside See Cafés

S Luca of Musselburgh

Patisserie Madeleine

16 Morningside Road, Southside See Cafés

27b Raeburn Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: A1, 5) 0131 332 8455, patisseriemadeleine. com | Closed Mon

The veritable rainbow of macaroons adorning the display counter at Patisserie Madeleine offsets a somewhat clinical lack of colour, clutter or artwork in the café’s décor. But this blank canvas showcases what must truly be baking perfected to an art form, so much so that to refer to it as mere ‘baking’ seems inadequate. An afternoon meander through Stockbridge becomes a minibreak to Paris if you succumb to this café’s allure: ambient French music sets the mood, and it would be possible to while away a happy hour with a magazine, a delicious tea (the white peach is particularly refreshing) or Mayan hot chocolate, and an edible masterpiece, completely oblivious to Edinburgh buzzing by outside. + The cakes - The clinical lack of colour in the décor

Pekoe Tea 20 Leven Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C2, 16) 0131 477 1838, pekoetea.co.uk | Closed Sun

This small spot in Tollcross once served as the hub for all Pekoe Tea activity – the shop, the office and the warehouse. Now having successfully built its reputation as a tea specialist, the company has largely expanded out of the original site, leaving it free to serve as a devoted tearoom and 64 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Social Bite • 131 Rose Street, New Town • 89 Shandwick Place, West End See Cafés

Thyme 44 Earl Grey Street, Tollcross, Tollcross (Map 4: D2, 46) 07946 819982, lunchthyme. co.uk | Closed Sat/Sun | £5.50 (lunch)

Now into its second decade, Thyme’s fanbase is office workers, either as they flood through the doors for lunchtime wraps, salads, rolls and soups, or outside catering platters. The substantial menu has a healthy bent, and owner Pauline Thorburn relishes coming up with imaginative combinations across the board: chicken and cashew salad is a bestseller, an enormous plate (or takeaway box) piled high with chicken, bacon, baby roast potatoes, cashew nuts and salad with smoked paprika aioli dressing, and there are 29 different roll or wrap combos to decide between as well as a makeyour-own option. All salads come with couscous and/or leaves, and homemade dressing. Daily soups include gluten- and dairy-free options, but as that might be a spicy patatas bravas or sambar dahl, you don’t need to be free-from to want to order them, and gluten-free bread is also available. The fresh juice mixes come with nutrient notes, and include a breakfast smoothie or mango mojito – with its

promise to optimise energy production and performance, you can imagine tired Friday financiers popping in for an afternoon boost. + Spectacular salads - After all that choice, pudding is limited to a few traybakes

Tupiniquim The Green Police Box, Middle Meadow Walk, Lauriston Place, Old Town See Round the World

4 Union of Genius 8 Forrest Road, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 53) 0131 226 4436, unionofgenius.com | Closed Sat/Sun | £5.50 (set lunch)

A warm welcome awaits at this tiny café. Takeaways are extremely popular, partly due to the lack of seats but mainly due to its growing reputation as one of the finest purveyors of soups in Edinburgh. The six globally themed creations sell out quickly, so be early to ensure your choice. A great-value combo includes soup with a choice of artisan bread, a Coke or water, crisps and fruit or snack bar for a mere £5.50 – one of the best deals in the area. If sitting in, the extra option of a bowl of soup encased in bread is available. Honey cakes and brownies are from Lovecrumbs, and the West End’s Love Pure Cakes provide a gluten-free bakewell cake with flaked almonds and lemon zest, which is just heavenly. + Imaginative and varied soups - Difficult to get a seat

Urban West Coffee House 33 William Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 2) 0131 225 8584, facebook.com/UrbanWest-Coffee-House | Closed Tue | £3.50 (set lunch)

The chef at Home restaurant until it shut its doors in 2012, Richard Logan took over this small West End sandwich bar in early 2013. While he has fewer opportunities these days to let out the creative inner chef with a comfortably familiar line-up of lunchtime sandwiches, baked potatoes and soups, his awareness of good ingredients, a confident hand with flavours and popular specials such as each Friday’s roast pork rolls earn Urban West its local loyalty. Logan’s friendly banter, along with a soup/sandwich/fruit meal deal and decent coffee, tick the place over each weekday, but keep an eye on Facebook for homebaking, the odd cheffy special and an update on the daily soups and hot dish. An outside catering service is handy for local businesses or events looking for some tasty items made with a sure touch. + Being tempted away from your desk by the Facebook updates - Roast pork only available on Fridays

The Zulu Lounge 366 Morningside Road, Southside (Map 3B: A4, 5) 0131 466 8337, thezululounge. com | £6.50 (set lunch)

The Zulu Lounge is a boldly decorated café with South African colours and trinkets. Anthony and Natalie’s warm welcome, and keenness to help with selections, makes for a relaxed and friendly atmosphere with excellent service. Popular with professional adults, school pupils also start arriving at 3.30pm of a weekday. Take time to study the menu boards before ordering, for a plethora of choices present themselves. If you’re very hungry, a foot-long Gatsby baguette ought to satisfy. There is a limited range of vegetarian options, but then that’s probably to be expected in a South African café. Zulu sundaes and smoothies are elaborate concoctions packed with fruit and make a satisfyingly sweet addition to lunch. + Friendly service and expert advice - Not disability friendly

CHINESE Love Chinese food? Edinburgh’s become an increasingly good place to explore. Traditional mainstays like lemon chicken and spring rolls soldier on, but many new avenues have opened to curious diners. Hot pot joints with steam-cloaked windows draw eager participants. Dumpling specialists produce dozens of filled pillows for gobbling up. Dim sum hubs see patrons hidden behind heightening towers of bamboo baskets. Selecting northern, southern, high-end or lowkey dishes, the question increasingly being asked is ‘what would the Chinese order?’ Reviewers: Frances Bentley, Stan Blackley, Courtney Peyton, Susan Smith

B&D’s Kitchen 214 Dalry Road, West End (Map 4: A4, off) 0131 261 9248, bdskitchen.co.uk | Closed Mon | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

In keeping with Edinburgh’s growing trend of exciting, punch-packed restaurants in pocket-sized shop front venues, B&D’s Kitchen is a hot spot to enjoy. The surroundings are simple, the seating limited, but the menu is worth exploring long before the delightful Mrs Betty Law or her effusive daughter Ling seats you. Why? Because some of the most interesting, not-seen-on-other-menu options must be ordered 24–48 hours in advance to allow for preparation. Chicken with powdered ginger is subtle in its light gravy but the flavour builds impressively. Crispy roast pork crackles as you bite through the super-crisp skin and into the tender flesh of pork belly, touched by the deep musty sweetness of hoisin sauce. Didn’t plan ahead? The majority of the menu items can be ordered on arrival, with no less care given to delivery. Salt and chilli squid, cut in generous rectangular slices, is meaty but not chewy under its flash-fried coating. Familiar dishes fill out the menu but sufficient attention is paid to detail that they prove better than usual. Chef David Law may need a bigger dining room soon. + Genuinely good food that makes you feel cared for - Bigger groups really must book ahead

4 China Town 3 Atholl Place, West End (Map 4: B2, 58) 0131 228 3333, chinatownedinburgh. com | No Kids (under 7) | Closed Tue | £9.30 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Quack, quack! The roast Cantonese duck at China Town, one of Edinburgh’s most stylish Chinese restaurants, is truly impressive. Soft and succulent on the inside with a perfect sweet, crispy exterior, it is impossible to resist finishing off the entire sizeable portion. Originally from Hong Kong, chef Thomas Chan brings authentic dishes and presents them with a perfection aimed at wowing high-end diners. From the traditional instruments adorning the walls to the blue-fern patterned furnishings and the pristine white tablecloths, China Town proves Chinese restaurants can be classy. Torpedo king prawns in a light breadcrumb coating are a good starter, or for those hoping to conserve their appetite, a hot and sour vegetable soup is thick and spicy. If an entire half-duck feels too adventurous as a main, fat and juicy king prawns with seasonal Chinese vegetables come in a light but mouth-

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fried dumplings, steamed buns and the popular cheung fun stuffed rice noodle roll. A takeaway menu, set banquets and a superb value three-course lunch deal are available and the long ‘European Chinese’ menu contains easily recognisable rice and noodle dishes, meat-and-sauce mains and a selection of Thai dishes, but those who are feeling more adventurous can eat from the impressive ‘Traditional Chinese’ menu, featuring ingredients such as fish head, jellyfish, chicken feet, duck tongues, frogs’ legs, shark’s lip, pig’s ear, pork liver, giblets and tripe, as well as ginseng, lotus root, seaweed, yam, mooli and much more. The dining room sits directly above a Chinese supermarket so, whatever you choose, you can fill your stomach and your larder in one trip. + Authentic Szechuan and Cantonese cuisine tailored for both Europeans and Asians - Some of the ‘traditional’ dishes may not be suitable for unadventurous eaters

Jasmine Chinese Restaurant

PHOTO © JANNICA HONEY

32–34 Grindlay Street, West End (Map 4: C1, 35) 0131 229 5757, jasminechinese. co.uk | £9.50 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Chop Chop: Chinese dumplings make great sharing food for friends

wateringly good garlic sauce. There’s a huge choice on the menu, and preparing it all freshly is a tall order, which is perhaps why the service, elegantly fronted by Kittie Chan, is rather slow. + High standards create authentic tasty food - Perfectionism requires patient customers – service is slow

Chop Chop • 248 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 61) 0131 221 1155, chop-chop.co.uk | £19.75 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner) • 76 Commercial Street, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 7) 0131 553 1818, chop-chop.co.uk | £19.75 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Fast food Chinese-style, Chop Chop’s canteen-like interior lends an authenticity to the experience that transforms diners to perhaps the campus of Peking University. With simple wooden tables and bright-yellow walls, the Haymarket branch is jam-packed on a Friday or Saturday night with groups. If you’re looking for a more intimate meal, the modern Leith branch is decorated with simple natural colours brightened up with Chinese lanterns. Both restaurants offer identical menus designed for sharing. This feels like the Chinese version of tapas, and gives diners a chance to try lots of little dishes. The speciality is dumplings, jiao zi (boiled) or guo tie (fried). The prawn guo tie are packed full of tasty prawns while the vegetable jiao zi provide a simpler taste worth dunking in your soya sauce. Meat and fish eaters have plenty of alternative choices including stodgy fried fish balls, fresh spicy squid with garlic, and light sliced beef strips. The menu doesn’t offer a huge variety of flavours – there’s a lot of teriyaki sauce and garlic – so make sure to prioritise some of the vegetable dishes, most notably the excellent stir-fried green beans and chilli. Unusually, it’s definitely worth trying dessert – the peanut or mixed-fruit dumplings are delicious with vanilla ice-cream. + Chinese-style tapas is great to share on a night out with friends - Simple, repetitive flavours limit the

actual choice on offer

Golden Dragon Castle 21 Castle Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 57) 0131 225 7327, thegoldendragon.eu | £9.90 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Any restaurant celebrating its 50th anniversary, part of the New Town furniture, would have had its ups and downs, but the delightful Mr Chan’s Golden Dragon Castle is definitely on the up. It’s the attention to detail that makes the difference. Dim sum enhance the starters menu but have been limited to a selection of half a dozen so they can all be homemade, and it shows. Har gow dumplings are simply stuffed with prawns. Won tons in the soup are terrific – the filling chunky, nothing mushy about it. Seafood is treated with reverence, and spiced king prawns in garlic sauce are moreish, holding up to the sauce with enough zing to make an afterdinner mint later seem wise. Mellow option, braised beef and vegetables, embodies that wonderful slow-cooked all-day tenderness and fills that space if you’re weary and needing comfort. Not sure what to choose? The ever helpful Mrs Chan has created attractively photographed menus emphasising favourites with Chinese and with Japanese guests, while another highlights top choices with regulars. Just another way you’ll feel looked after. + Classics done well, but still some unexpected surprises await - Desserts could use a bit more attention

Imperial Palace 36 Inglis Green Road, West End (Map 4: A4, off) 0131 443 6898, imperialpalace. org.uk | £7.80 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Sitting beside a nondescript main road, Imperial Palace’s ornate red brick façade and pan tile roof make it hard to miss. Serving authentic Szechuan and Cantonese cuisine, its huge dining room seats 180 people and is often packed, particularly with families and groups from Edinburgh’s Asian community. An extensive dim sum menu is available between noon and 5.30pm and includes

For seventeen years Jasmine Chinese has positioned itself as a high-end proprietor of Asian food in the heart of the city centre. The cheery red and yellow dining room is slightly overcrowded but well run by somewhat understated staff. The menu, however, is where your focus will rest. Jasmine continues to uphold its reputation for expertly cooked seafood. Prawns and scallops with cashew nuts glisten alongside bright bursts of crunchy broccoli. The seafood is stir-fried until just cooked through and its natural sweetness drawn out, without a moment of

4 HITLIST

CHINESE 4 China Town Quality Chinese food in a tranquil setting.

4 Stack Dim Sum Over 40 inventive dim sum, all made in house every day.

toughness. Although Jasmine’s signature poultry dish, crispy almond chicken with orange sauce, is also one of their most popular choices, there is another bird that is a real stand out. The meaty chunks of stir-fried duck in black bean and orange peel is dressed, but not overwhelmed, in deep earthy richness contrasted by the sharp citrus burst. Portions are substantial, although accompanying dishes are surprisingly costly for what’s delivered. Desserts are fairly standard fare, but after the success of the preceding courses you may not mind or notice. + High quality ingredients that prove their own worth - Surprising lack of pre-theatre dining deals given the location

Open 7 days a week for lunch & dinner

32 Grindlay Street Edinburgh EH3 9AP Opposite the Lyceum and across the road from the Sheraton Hotel

www.jasminechinese.co.uk

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Karen’s Unicorn

Karen’s Unicorn is defiantly different to other Chinese restaurants in the city. The interior is serious, the menu is serious, the wine list is serious and the staff are serious too. This is a restaurant which has, for many years, been singlehandedly trying to re-write the rule book with regards to what Edinburghers think a Chinese restaurant can do. While this can come across as a little po-faced, the overall experience is a positive one in lifting what can be seen as a cuisine based on the fast and basic into something that’s worthy of the accolades it receives. A smart monochrome dining room with pink accents is tended by efficient staff with microphones, providing some of the best service and the best Chinese food-friendly wine list in the city for their well-to-do locals. It can lack atmosphere on quieter nights, but the food more than makes up for it. The menu is large, but shows off a variety of styles of Chinese cuisine and is very good, if a little predictable. What isn’t predictable is the high quality of all the ingredients and lightness of touch to seasoning, which allows the freshness of the monkfish to shine, or the pork and ginger to stand out as special. The rule book hasn’t quite been re-written for Chinese dining, but there’s certainly a line drawn as to what Karen’s Unicorn is capable of achieving. + A watershed moment for quality

PHOTO © HANNAH EWAN

• 8b Abercromby Place, New Town (Map 1B: B4, 61) 0131 556 6333, karensunicorn.com | Closed Mon | £8.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner • 112 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: C2, 17) 0131 220 6659, karensunicorn.com | Closed Tue | £16 (dinner)

Lian Pu: regional Chinese dishes and bubble teas in a bright and convivial Southside canteen

Chinese dining - There’s the bill at the end, of course

Kweilin 19–21 Dundas Street, New Town (Map 1A: D3, 37) 0131 557 1875, kweilin.net | Closed Mon | £10.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

A collection of Georgian rooms on Dundas Street house an Edinburgh institution in Kweilin. Under new management the previous red and lantern-lit interior has been replaced with

an elegant European décor including chair covers and stark whites alongside hints of gold and red. The menu is still unashamedly Cantonese with sweet and sour and noodle dishes forming the base of the cooking. Lunchtime specials are reasonable value and provide classics like a spicy and sweet chilli chicken alongside more westernised tit bits like prawn toast. The evenings offer a broader menu with clay pot cooking, good vegetarian options as well as daily specials. There are interesting forays into Szechuan flavours in a few dishes but in general the menu is very recognisable and safe for novice palates (it even includes a dessert section of the usual banana fritters and ice-cream sundaes). Kweilin continues to provide good cooking and classic flavours. [Not recently visited.] + Classic Cantonese cooking - Few desserts worth the calories

Lian Pu 14 Marshall Street, Southside (Map 2A: D5, 68) 0131 662 8895, lianpu.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Named after the Chinese opera masks tradition, Lian Pu’s fast-food interior is just as colourful. Stepping back from the Cantonese-style food we’ve come to equate with ‘Chinese’, the aim is to introduce people to less familiar regional dishes: their most popular order, Hong Shao Roo, is a sweet dish of tender belly pork in a soy and ginger-based sauce. The pan-Asian favourites aren’t completely ignored, however, with excellent Japanese dumplings and noodles of every incarnation. They’re big fans of manyflavoured bubble tea, with bursting fruit drops or divisive tapioca – sugary and milky, it makes a good pudding. Prices are student-cheap, with a particularly good value bento box. + Some unusual Chinese dishes - Bubble tea may be an acquired taste

Kwok Brasserie 44 Ratcliffe Terrace, Causewayside, Southside (Map 3C: C5, 32) 0131 668 1818, kwokbrasserie.co.uk | £5.99 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

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Kwok isn’t the best known name in Edinburgh’s restaurant scene, and on arrival you can understand why. Located in a part of town best known for real-ale boozers, some dispiriting kebab joints and a lot of boarded-up premises it’s easy to ignore the uninspiring front of Kwok. Not much improves when you enter – with grubby banqueting chairs and a distinctly 80s vibe to the interior, it doesn’t really promote a good atmosphere. Which is a shame really, as the food is good. The menu is the usual Chinese restaurant fare (there’s probably a template out there), but the drive is clearly in the Szechuan dishes and the specials. The classics are fine examples, with ribs sticky and generous and an aubergine hot-pot that avoids the usual issue of being greasy and slimy. Fish here is a real winner: caught by a friend of Rebecca Kwok it’s incredibly fresh but very well handled, lightly cooked and gently seasoned to do the raw ingredient absolute justice. The vegetarian elements are often overlooked, but there an admirable real depth of choice and quality at Kwok. Though the settings aren’t glamorous, and you really do need to BYO, Kwok is worth a visit as the many regulars will attest. + Friendly, bustling restaurant - Not exactly a beauty

Loon Fung 2 Warriston Place, Canonmills, Inverleith (Map 1B: A1, 2) 0131 556 1781/557 0940, loonfungedinburgh.co.uk | £8.50 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

It’s 1974 and the Loon Fung is one of the coolest restaurants in Edinburgh, famous for its lemon chicken and Cantonese cuisine that surpasses all competitors. Fast forward to today, and it is the city’s longest-running Chinese restaurant and still bustling. The Loon Fung’s continuing success is not reputation alone: this is one of the trendiest looking Chinese restaurants in town with bamboo shoots hanging form the ceiling like stalactites and geometrical room dividers. The menu also still has a lot going for it, specialising in freshly caught fish. Dim sum lovers may try the pork and prawn filled Har Kow for starters although a less filling choice is the lightly fried crispy pancake rolls. The fish specialities are heavily promoted and if you haven’t quite the appetite or wallet for the popular fresh lobster, sweet and juicy jumbo prawns in ginger and spring onion are a good alternative. The famous lemon chicken is worth a try if you’re a fan of the dish but it doesn’t stand out among the subtle flavours a good Cantonese menu has to offer. It may not survive another forty years, but the Loon Fung is not disappearing any time soon. + A hint of history in Edinburgh’s oldest Chinese restaurant - The décor has stood the test of time a bit better than the menu

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Red Box Noodle Bar 51–53 West Nicolson Street, Southside (Map 2A: D5, 60) 0131 662 0828, redboxnoodlebar.co.uk | £8.50 (set lunch) / £8.50 (dinner)

In the heart of student territory, Red Box Noodle Bar is busy and bustling: half takeaway, half restaurant. Seeking to live the maxim ‘do one thing well’, Red Box serves up noodles in various forms. Order at the counter and choose your noodle, meat, sauce and vegetables. There is a host of options for your red box like ramen or ho fun, duck, chicken or prawns, as well as a wide selection of veg. The sauces range from the tasty black bean to the spicy Thai red curry. There are weekly specials like Chinese leaves or char siu pork for something new. Once ordered you can add starters like wings, ribs or squid rings before finding your seat with a soft drink or beer. The service is swift and the generous portions are enough for a substantial appetite. While the range on offer will not wow, the convenience and consistency makes it a popular spot before a night out or in between festival shows. + Noodles how you like them - Dishes can lack spice

Saigon Saigon Restaurant 14 South St Andrew Street, New Town (Map 1B: B6, 49) 0131 557 3737, saigonrestaurant.co.uk | £8.99 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Anyone would be forgiven for having walked past Saigon Saigon’s entrance a thousand times and having dismissed it as a buffet canteen kitchen, and during the day that’s exactly what Saigon Saigon does, catering to gaggles of shoppers laden with bags and prams. At night, the atmosphere is transformed and the restaurant becomes an enjoyably noisy venue which has a few tricks up its sleeves. The menu is, in typical fashion, long and fairly traditional until you hit the dim sum – and this is where the kitchen shines. Mundane chicken stir-fry, beef with limp green pepper and black bean all fade into the background when you taste the shrimp jiaozi. That over-seasoned beef and green pepper dish? All forgiven when the pork baozi arrives and shows the kitchen can really excel when the chefs are left to their specialities. Service can be frustratingly slow, but if you’re not in a hurry, this is a pleasant surprise in a city where Chinese cuisine doesn’t always shine. + Great dim sum - Ordering anything else is brave

4 Stack Dim Sum Bar 42 Dalmeny Street, Leith (Map 5B: B3, 8) 0131 553 7330 | Closed Wed | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

From outside, the unprepossessing shopfront of Stack Dim Sum barely catches the notice of most passers-by. Step inside however and the bustle of trays laden with steam baskets of dumplings, buns and won tons draws your attention around the room. Diners of all ages wield chopsticks like talons on hungry herons. And why not? Over

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40 creative dim sum choices await, all homemade, every day, and when they’re gone, they’re gone. The standard favourites, like sui mia pork and prawn dumplings, are there, but so is alternative crab meat siu lun bao, replacing the prawn with crab, sweetening the flavour but also mellowing the texture in delicate casings. A wonderful addition is the golden flash-fried squid cake, the seafood chopped but still fleshy and firm to the bite. Or try the soya skim crispy roll in oyster sauce, an omelette-type arrangement of soya tucking prawns, chicken, pork and vegetables inside. OK, surroundings are simple and tables are plain, so maybe not the place to take your mum for her birthday…unless, of course, she’s a genuine foodie. + Simply wonderful dim sum offered by truly friendly people - It isn’t bigger on the inside – so book ahead

Wing Sing Inn 147–149 Dundee Street (Map 4: B4, 73) 0131 228 6668 | £12.50 (lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

Unassuming Wing Sing Inn at Fountainbridge doesn’t sell itself with its basic exterior and brightly lit, canteenlike interior. However, fans of authentic Chinese food will want give it a go – after all where else in the city will you get the chance to try salt and pepper frog legs? Hailing from Shandong province in north-east China, chef Yongpei Fan doesn’t pander to westernised ideas of Chinese food, so there’s plenty of unusual choices to try out and with small or large portions on offer, diners can enjoy a range of different tastes. Start with the generous guotie – pan-fried pork dumplings that arrive embedded in a dumpling pancake, amazingly crispy on the outside and gooey on the inside. The battered frogs legs are worth a try for the novelty value, although adventurous diners may be better rewarded with shredded pig maw or jellyfish with cabbage. Beautifully tender strips of sizzling beef in pepper sauce will definitely appeal to the more traditional Scottish palate, as will sizzling prawn with chilli. The wine list is basic, so best to BYOB for just £3 corkage. + Dumpling delight - Dungeon-like atmosphere

Wok and Wine 57a Frederick Street, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 74) 0131 225 2382, wokandwine. co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | Closed Tue | £12 (dinner)

Low lights and a blast of opera don’t usually suggest Chinese cuisine – unless you are a guest of Stephanie Lo at Frederick Street’s Wok and Wine. Among the leather-backed chairs and nooks and crannies of this well-appointed basement restaurant she continues in her twelfth year to bring the best local ingredients to Edinburgh, the Hong Kong way. Order a banquet and a bottle at a reasonable cost and enjoy starters of duck, ribs, and the generous money bags – crisp pastry dim sum filled with a tangy, curry hit that leaves you mournful when they’re gone. Main courses are mostly Cantonese style, like fillet steak slathered in a piquant black bean sauce or hunks of John Dory battered and dusted with a sweet and salty five spice coating (as moreish as cinema popcorn). The cooking has western palates in mind, but you can ask for something a little more authentic and the kitchen is happy to oblige. If you’re not sure what to order, stump for a selection of smaller plates. + Friendly, knowledgable staff and proprietor - The musical atmosphere isn’t for everyone

FAR EAST FUSION, JAPANESE, MALAYSIAN, KOREAN Choice and quality in Far East dining just keeps going from strength to strength. Vietnamese, Korean, Malaysian, Japanese cuisines each lead their ingredients in distinctive and innovative directions, playing with expectations – sweet with vinegar, spicy but sour, umami. The appeal may be health driven, much of the cuisines being non-dairy, low fat and often lighter than western meals. Possibly it’s the communal nature of multiple plates being shared between friends, or the great diversity of flavours, spices and colours. Maybe it’s just delicious. Reviewers: Frances Bentley, Stan Blackley, Courtney Peyton, Susan Smith

Bar Soba FUSION 104 Hanover Street, City Centre (Map 1A: D4, 86) 0131 225 6220, barsoba.co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Enter the bright and slightly industrial feel of Bar Soba, geared to the young or certainly those with great hearing. Drinks are plentiful and good deals abound so the bar is the draw. Dining is a pick and mix of Asian dishes, offering something of everything. The menu is large enough to offer serious diversity but not so huge to be overwhelming and dishes arrive looking good. Pulled pork gyozas live alongside California maki but each, though tasty, is slightly soggy. Cambodian seafood laksa, bowled up with much sea bass, tiger prawn and squid, sits in a mildly spicy broth, while tender Vietnamese duck pho swims in hot and sour stock. Both should be good, filled with tasty, fresh ingredients. Both land somehow disappointingly flat, something sadly getting lost between the menu, the recipes and the kitchen staff. Perhaps it will get found again. Meantime, front of house make every effort to look after customers even when every table is filled, which is quite a trick, so enjoy the cocktails. + Good deals on drinks - Food has the potential to be better with some attention

Bonsai Bar Bistro JAPANESE 14 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 28) 0131 557 5093, bonsaibarbistro. co.uk | £4.90 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Bright and confident, Bonsai Bar’s New Town bistro has settled nicely into one of Edinburgh leading foodie neighbourhoods. The menu is unchanged from its Richmond Street big sister but the mood is distinctly different. In Broughton Street it’s young professionals, parlimentarians, trendies and locals who embrace the multitude of plates. Sharing remains the name of the game. Sashimi, sushi, teppanyaki are rapidly plucked up, dipped and vanish amid the steady hum of lively conversation. The blackboard of specials changes frequently as what’s good goes. Tempura roast eel sushi roll is almost too rich, but the rebalancing of sticky rice and the rush of wasabi make it a high point. Yaki hotate, seared scallops, bathe in a light ginger and orange glaze and tako salad, of purple, marinated octopus

and tomato salad, gives just enough chew to get your attention. It’s easy to over-order, but such is life. Still, try to save room for Bonsai’s trademark sake sorbet. Dry, oh so cleansing and slightly sweet, counterpoint it with the citrus rush of a scoop or two of passion fruit or mango. + Good daily specials that deserve attention - Fitting all the many plates on the table is tricky

Bonsai Bar Bistro JAPANESE 46 West Richmond Street, Old Town (Map 2B: B5, 15) 0131 668 3847, bonsaibarbistro.co.uk | £4.90 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Fancy a relaxed neighbourhood Japanese? Want to kick back with a cold drink and a steady cascade of dumplings, tempura, sushi and sizzling teriyaki that won’t end in a painful bill? Often the anticipated atmosphere for Japanese dining is formal or a bit of chromey flash. Not Bonsai Bar. Maybe it’s influenced by the university vibe, but the wooden panelling, benches and colourful posters all speak to the lowkey, good-value sensibility. The menu is extensive but not overwhelming, with plenty to keep veggies and non-sushi eaters happy, while offering the unusual too. Flash-fried softshell crab karaage and steamed takoyaki octopus dumpings disappear all too quickly, only for long golden sticks of crispy prawn tempura to take centre stage. The beef tataki, thinly sliced and edge-seared, has a sweetness from the caramelised meat that marries harmoniously with its mustard miso dressing. Salmon, tuna and prawns factor high in the gaijin-zushi stakes. Overall, Bonsai Bar could be a training camp in Japanese dining. But how many camps are this relaxing and close with a bowl of palatetantalising sake sorbet? + So relaxed you could convince yourself you’re still a student - Layout won’t easily suit large groups

Café Andamiro JAPANESE 113 Buccleuch Street, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 11) 07894 165 789, cafeandamiro.co.uk | Closed Sun | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Partly pastry café, partly casual restaurant, Café Andamiro, newly arrived in 2014, joins the Far Eastern dining community expanding around the University of Edinburgh. The setting is low key and not homey, but has style. The menu is a genuine mix of Japanese and Korean classics, kicking off with meaty pan-fried dumplings and thin, pan-seared potato pancake. Seafood okonomiyak, a stir-fried ramen noodle dish, is tastily seasoned with yakisoba sauce but a bit short on the promised seafood. The oyakodon, a Japanese rice bowl, however, is plentifully scattered with chicken and mushrooms, the eggs and glutinous rice merging to form their moist, generous setting. Deep bowls of miso soup accompany both. Soupy bowls of Korean spicy noodles arrive bubbling at tableside, generously enhanced with vegetables and tofu. But save room for the homemade pastries. Green tea roll, light sponge of shocking green but delicate flavouring, filled with cream and berries, holds its own again tempting mango cheesecake. Accompany this with flowering tea, blossoming in its glass pot while infusing, and relax. Perhaps a macaroon alongside? Choose from sesame, cranberry or green tea. + Interesting food, wonderful cakes, delightful teas - It’s a pity it’s closed on Sundays The List Eating & Drinking Guide 67

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Harajuku Kitchen JAPANESE 10 Gillespie Place, Tollcross (Map 3A: B2, 20) 0131 281 0526, harajukukitchen. co.uk | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

This Japanese newcomer is run by former journalist Richard Lumgair and sushi specialist Kaori Simpson. Funky modernist murals evoking Japanese icons and wooden design with organised rusticity make for a modern dining room. Flavours and style are inspired by its namesake district of Tokyo, serving hot dishes like chawanmushi, a creamy and savoury egg custard over nuggets of mushroom and prawn, as well as freshly made pork gyoza and a rafute – pork belly, slow cooked in sake. Larger dishes include karaage, tempura and katsudon. Sushi is an obvious strength: with a catch of the day as well as salmon or tuna there is a guarantee of fresh, well-cut sashimi. Nigiri and futomaki rolls are expertly made and show a serious kitchen that’s keen on tradition. With a pastry chef on staff, Harajuku offers a choice of at least two desserts, such as moreish chocolate mochi, or a tangy Oreo cookie cheesecake. This is a place to broaden your palate beyond generic teriyaki and conveyor-belt sushi bars. + Sublime sushi - Service can seem disjointed

4 Kampong Ah Lee Malaysian Delight

4 Kanpai

MALAYSIAN

8–10 Grindlay Street, West End (Map 4: D1, 32) 0131 228 1602, kanpaisushi.co.uk | Closed Mon | £15 (lunch) / £25 (dinner)

28 Clerk Street, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 9) 0131 662 9050, kampongahlee.co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

A traditional, family-run Malay food stop in the heart of Edinburgh, Kampong Ah Lee has been serving diners looking for a hearty, authentic slice of southeast Asia since 2007. Head chef Peter Lee’s decades of experience show in plate after plate of Malaysian, Chinese and Indonesian staples. Starters are generous: chicken satay skewers are piled under a homemade peanut sauce; ribs are stacked high and the star of the show – two flakey, buttery roti breads with a tangy curry sauce – are impossible to leave alone. A highlight of the main courses is the sambal, which hits the expected sweet, spicy and sour notes with perfect pitch. The great-value laksa is a substantial meal on its own that most would struggle to finish. Packed full of seafood and noodles, it is not a dish to attempt in your best shirt. There are few desserts to speak of; instead finish off with a Malaysian coffee sweetened with condensed milk. Kampong is a great place to start the night or stop off for a late meal. + Roti cenai - The cafeteria style won’t suit everybody

Hay Sushi JAPANESE 15 Dalry Road, West End (Map 4: A3, 65) 0131 337 7522, haysushi.com | £9.90 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Hop across from the newly redeveloped Haymarket Station to embrace an expansive Japanese dining opportunity. Whether a quick bite or a leisurely, multiplate feast, Hay Sushi has a lot that’s good to offer. How do they make those ebi goyza prawn dumplings so light? Dwell on this as the steam rises from the savoury pouches, then carefully gather up a salmon rose, huddling bright gasps of avocado and a dappling of fish eggs, while seeking out just enough wasabi. Teriyaki sirloin beef, extended over a bed of udon noodles lifted by the tang of soy, is a sound reminder that western menus haven’t cornered the market on delivering a great steak. But on one of Edinburgh’s wetter days, a bowl of ramen noodle soup supporting nourishing mixed vegetables or the moreish fried breaded chicken breast can be hard to resist. The answer, of course, is to bring lots of friends to this roomy space, order lots and share, share, share. And if you need a helpful steer, charming chef Alex Sy will help you feel a regular in no time. + Hard to choose, but photo-filled menu really helps - Wish there was an ‘all you can eat’ dumpling option

Kampung Ali Malaysian Delight MALAYSIAN 97–101 Fountainbridge, West End (Map 4: C3, 48) 0131 228 5069, kampungali. com | £7.80 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

A real family affair, this big sister to the Lee clan’s Kampong Ah Lee is housed in a cavernous, brightly decorated dining room. The ceiling is bedecked with massive, framed snapshots of Malaysia, including scenes from the small village from which the proprietors come. The menu is welcoming and unashamedly Malaysian. For those on their first foray into the cuisine it is worth taking time deciding and talking to the incredibly friendly staff about the food and flavours before leaping in. Starters like the tangy spare ribs or the buttery roti will tickle the taste buds, but the real stars of the show are authentic, main course, Malay classics. Plates of sambal or rendang curry are substantial both in size and flavour, balancing the hot and sour notes of the cuisine well. There are specials and new dishes appearing regularly, like butter prawns or beef belly. A good selection of vegetarian options and a proper choice of desserts add to the experience. + Rendang chicken – a super version of a Malaysian dry curry - Not a cosy dining room

JAPANESE

Smooth, sleek and quietly sophisticated, Kanpai remains calming even when serving a full house. Staff flow by tables, steadily gracing eager patrons with artfully arranged dishes of crunchy tempura and paper-thin encased pan fried veg and chicken dumpling, only just released from the ever watchful kitchen. And ingredients rule. The fish has the clean, open sweetness essential to its light adornment of soy or wasabi accents, set forth by the numerous nigiri and sashimi (squid, sea bass and surf clam among the more unusual choices). For those whose preference is not to the raw, a dragon roll – rice-encircled pink tempura prawn, fixed in seaweed, dressed in avocado – is strikingly delicious. Vegetarian maki sushi, highlighting cucumber, kanpyo or Japanese pickle, in no way plays second fiddle to their aquatic colleagues. Meat-eaters might feel limited, but are rewarded in straying beyond their comfort zone. Made-toorder is the byword, so don’t plan on a rushed meal. Instead, enjoy a sequence of moments, each plate arriving as it is ready, each making a clear and confident statement about quality, counterpoint, beauty. + That seared tuna with homemade miso dressing - Last orders means last orders. You have been warned

4 Kim’s Korean Meals KOREAN 5 Buccleuch Street, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 2) 0131 629 7951, kimsminimeals. com | Closed Sun | £15 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Wouldn’t it be great to have a long-lost Korean family, who would warmly welcome and generously feed you whenever you rolled up? Great news. Head to a check-by-jowl affair in the midst of Buccleuch Street. Perplexed as to what to order? Not a problem. Generous owner Harkwoon Kim is at hand to walk you through the flavours and formula of Korean dining, from spicy to sour to gentle comfort food. Still confused? A photo-enlivened menu gives confidence to explore, while small bowls of tastebud-awakening marinated vegetables and terrines arrive, tempting you onwards. Perhaps try a ricey bowl of dolsot bibimbap, overflowing with mince, vegetables, egg thickened and spiced with red pepper paste. Or spicy seafood jjigae – prawns, squid and large green mussels swimming in a deep, resonant broth, alongside mushrooms and tofu. But first explore massive platters

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food.list.co.uk of starters (two would easily feed three). Feast on pajeon, a crispy-edged, eggy seafood pancake, or japchee – springy, sesame-laced light glass noodles. And, great news – since they aren’t actually family, there’s no washing-up to do! + You won’t be hungry again for days - Not open late, so plan ahead

Nanyang Malaysian Cuisine MALAYSIAN Unit 1, 3–5 Lister Square, South Pavilion, Quartermile, Southside (Map 2A: A5, 56) 0131 629 1797, nanyangrestaurant.com | £9.45 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

If you can find Nanyang, deep in the maze of modern glass blocks that form Quartermile, you should reward yourself by taking the time to explore this dynamic cuisine, still underrepresented in Edinburgh’s restaurant scene. Minimalist but comfortable, the open-aspect dining room feels right for couples and groups, tourists and office workers. The chunky, handsomely gloopy satay complements generous skewers of grilled chicken or lamb. Roti tenderly flakes apart when scooping out thick curry sauce, but the salt and chilli pepper soft-shell crab is a bit heavy on the batter. Ample mains options should suit most palates, and while the clay pot lamb risks being a bit bland (despite chunks of ginger), the ikan bakar – grilled sea bass wrapped in banana leaf with sambal sauce – is superb. On sight, the dense sambal layered over bright green beans would seem to overwhelm the firm fish flesh, but not so. The dried shrimp and palm sugar composing the paste are gently enveloping, somehow earthy and surprisingly rich. Interesting puddings, though slightly too sweet, can be explored if you still have room. + A wide range of well-prepared Malaysian classics - Finding the restaurant!

No 1 Sushi Bar JAPANESE 37 Home Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: B1, 7) 0131 229 6880, no1sushibar.co.uk | £22.50 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Modern, cute and authentic, this little restaurant in the city’s Tollcross is a

A unique and exciting Japanese eating experience in the heart of Edinburgh. Authentic, traditional, home-cooked hot dishes, and sushi, made with fresh, local ingredients. 10 Gillespie Place Edinburgh, 0131 281 0526

&/7 harajukukitchen.co.uk

AUTHENTIC | AFFORDABLE | FUN

DRAGON ROLL £8.95

14 Broughton St, Edinburgh Tel: 0131 557 5093 46 West Richmond Street, Edinburgh Tel: 0131 668 3847

www.bonsaibistro.co.uk 68 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

CALIFORNIA ROLL £7.95

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good place to stop off before a trip to the nearby Kings Theatre or Cameo Cinema. From raw, thinly sliced sashimi to maki sushi (fish rolled with rice on a sheet of seaweed), nigiri sushi (cooked or raw fish on a ball of rice) and temaki sushi (a hand roll), it’s all here. Munch on a generous portion of vegetable tempura while you make your choice and look out for a rainbow roll maki of tuna, salmon and avocado, which stands out for its variety of flavours all packed into one and topped with a sprinkle of pink roe. Sea bass sashimi is a good choice for those adventurous enough to knock back simple, unaccompanied raw fish, while salmon nigiri sprinkled with soy sauce and dipped in wasabi is familiar to Western sushi eaters. If sushi isn’t your thing, there’s also a good choice of udon or soba noodle dishes. Wash it all down with an Asahi beer and pretend you’re in Tokyo. + A broad range of freshly prepared, authentic sushi - Better use of set menus would help the uninitiated

Oishii JAPANESE 176 Rose Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 53) 0131 225 5286, oishiiscotland.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £7.50 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

With a functional black interior and generous servings, Oishii on Rose street is a one-stop shop for the adventurous lunchtime crowd craving more than just a sandwich. Priding itself on healthy food served authentically, there are a number of solid staples. The tempura is crunchy and light, the gyoza packed with pork or prawns, and the teriyaki arrives piled on a mountain of bean sprouts. The service is fast and efficient but friendly and helpful with it. There are three-course lunch deals during the day for £7.50 but the evening slows down and diners can ponder the extensive menu over a flask

of sake. The full menu has a lot to take in, including curries and stir-fry dishes. Sashimi is standard, but the hosomaki rolls of spicy tuna have a good kick and the level of rice to fish in the sushi is nicely balanced. Not a place to linger given the wooden benches, but if you fancy a quick Japanese bite in the West End, Oishii is for you. + Fast and friendly service - Cramped and uncomfortable seating

Ong Gie KOREAN 22a Brougham Place, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 11) 0131 229 0869, onggie.com | Closed Sun | £12 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Evolving from its pocket-sized origins across town, Ong Gie has landed on its feet in Tollcross. Uniquely, among Edinburgh’s Korean restaurants, Ong Gie features Korean BBQ for diners who desire some food participation. Choose your favoured protein, await your table-top grill to hit sizzle, have lettuce leaves dressed with special bean paste for filling, chop sticks at the ready and Min Jun’s your uncle! While you wait, crispy, homemade spring rolls filled with glass noodles or pan-fried pork dumplings, articulated with a kimchi bite, take the edge off hunger. Some dipping sauces can be a bit sweet, so use wisely. If playing chef doesn’t take your fancy, Wan Loo’s kitchen takes the load. Many stir-fried or deep-fried dishes fill the menu, often dressed in a sweet Korean soy sauce or sweet chilli sauce, but for something slightly different, consider one of the many main-course soups. Served with rice alongside, these steaming bowls of lightly spicy broth hosting seafood, meat and/or tofu offer deep satisfaction, and will certainly take the edge off a long day. + Already a popular neighbourhood destination - Careful when reaching across the table – that BBQ’s hot

4 Pho Vietnam House VIETNAMESE 1–3 Grove Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 54) 0131 228 3383, vietnamhousescotland.com | £10 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

My, how we’ve grown! Only four years ago Pho Vietnam House was a tiny holein-the-wall hideaway, with a limited menu but lots of spirit. Well that spirit has blossomed, as the capacity has doubled, and while the menu’s more expansive, it’s no less authentic or rewarding. Owner Jodie Nguyen still gives her restaurant that warm, personal touch, from her friendly welcome to convincing her mother to make wonderful Vietnamese puddings ‘like nothing else in town’. Pride of place for starters is still held by the fresh spring rolls – steamed prawns, nestled with vermicelli noodles and fresh mint wrapped in delicate rice paper – for many an essential part of a Vietnamese meal. Still a favourite, the braised catfish, so firm and fragrant a fish yet so rarely on Edinburgh menus, clings to its ricey bed with sweetened shallots and ginger. But now it competes with recent ‘street food’ additions, like the grilled pork with lemongrass, garlic and shallots, slightly sticky from the pan, piqued with fresh chillies. It’s easy to over-order but hard to know when to stop or why you should try. + Truly does Vietnamese food proud - They’ve yet to open another branch

Shilla KOREAN 13b Dundas Street, New Town (Map 1A: D3, 39) 0131 556 4840, shilla-edinburgh. com | Closed Sun | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Such is the sensory trick played by Shilla with sounds, aromas and décor that only the tell-tale sign of New Town brickwork shows you are in Edinburgh and not Seoul. The menu of this basement venue is traditionally Korean, with pa

4 HITLIST

FAR EAST 4 Kampong Ah Lee A lively atmosphere, friendly welcome and a wonderful introduction to authentic Malaysian food.

4 Kanpai Sleek, confident and driven by quality, Kanpai delivers magnificent sushi, maki, nigiri, and is a worthy sibling to the much lauded Sushiya.

4 Kim’s Mini Meals The venue is mini but feasts flow from the kitchen of this family run Korean treasure.

4 Pho Vietnam House Growing from strength to strength, promoting the joys of Vietnamese flavours with creativity, verve and a very warm welcome.

jeon (seafood omelette) the standout on the broad list of starters. Great lunch offerings include a range of noodles and authentic Korean hotpots, or you could sample a traditional bibimap, a large bowl of rice, meat and fried egg which you seasons yourself with the local hot sauce. More refined delights lie on the grill, with dishes like squid and marinated pork, which alongside a plate of homemade kimchi (Korean pickled and fermented cabbage) provides the sweet, spicy, salty and sour balance of earthy Korean flavours. There’s also a regular specials board to sample as you sup barley tea or imported Hike lager. There’s little in the way of desserts on the menu, but you could always have an extra plate of kimchi or ask the knowledgable and friendly staff to recommend something a little more leftfield. + Balanced and tasty traditional cuisine - No desserts worth the time

Sushiya JAPANESE 19 Dalry Road, West End (Map 4: B3, 66) 0131 313 3222, sushiya.co.uk | Closed Mon | £14 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Bonsai (page 67): now with two branches, there’s excellent sushi and teriyaki for the Old and New Towns

After eight years in business Sushiya must get tired of hearing how tiny yet perfectly formed it is. But there you are – it is astounding that so many beautifully cooked and presented dishes can be conjured so efficiently in so petite a venue. The menu is anything but small, yet the kitchen produces sheer delight on every plate. Paper-thin dumplings encasing vegetables and chicken are pan-fried, perfectly caramelising the undersides. The sweet resonance of the miso-glazed grilled aubergine is fleshy and earthy in its shell. Teriyaki steak, grilled to rare perfection, clings against a bed of shortgrain rice, accompanied by a deep cup of soothing miso, the meat in perfect balance with the broth. Despite all this kitchen activity, the sushi station, perched in sight of customer seating, is abuzz with the made-to-order assembly of sushi, maki and nigiri. Pert rolls of maki sushi make a beautiful mouthful The List Eating & Drinking Guide 69

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of sea flavour. Salmon, swordfish, squid, scallops, sea bass, surf clams – the list swims on to be glorified in melt-away sashimi. Wonders never cease in this bright shiny treasure trove of Japan. + Everything on the menu. Every last thing! - Getting a table will be tricky if you’ve failed to book ahead

Tang’s JAPANESE 44 Candlemaker Row, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 45) 0131 220 5000, tangsgohan. com | £15.50 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Japanese eateries tend to be quite trendy, so this cute little place on Candlemaker Row feels quaintly old-fashioned with its simple wood furniture and traditional Japanese crockery. Owner Qun Tang previously ran a sushi restaurant in London and visits Tokyo once a year to make sure that his Edinburgh establishment is up to date with changing culinary trends. As such last year he introduced the popular ramen, a hearty pork and vegetable soup ideal for a cold winter’s day, and this year sees grilled chicken yakitori added to the menu. A cold sharing platter for two makes a tasty starter, full of flavour and likely to include a seaweed salad and kimchi, Korean picked cabbage. Tang’s sushi can’t be faulted, with lovely fresh fish beautifully arranged and presented – try the salmon and tuna sashimi platter to get a good mix. Unusually, it’s also worth leaving room for a traditional red bean paste filled dessert, such as a fluffy dorayaki or a chewy mochi. Wash it all down with a light Jasmine tea for a lovely lunch or dinner. + More than just sushi, there’s a range of Japanese cuisine here - What a confusing menu – seek guidance before ordering

Wagamama NOODLE & SUSHI BARS 1 Castle Terrace, West End (Map 4: C1, 24) 0131 229 5506, wagamama.com | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

With fast, friendly and efficient service this pan-Asian eatery continues to be an Edinburgh favourite. The westernfriendly menu is a perfect starting point for those stepping out of their flavour comfort zone. The authentic food doesn’t push boundaries, with the exception of a few Korean-inspired dishes like an eye-watering chilli chicken dish called the firecracker. This is a safe menu, with a variety of gyozas, salads and yakitori to start before heading to the robust main courses where bowls of slurpable ramen await. If soup noodles do not take your fancy the menu offers fried noodle tepannyaki dishes or rice-based curries and stir fries. All are prepared to order and will arrive when they’re ready at the long communal tables, so don’t stand on ceremony. There is a healthy streak running through the menu with a seasonal option of stir-fried greens, big salads and a variety of fresh juices on offer. But you can indulge in a handful of standard desserts. No booking is required, but a weekend lunch time may find you queuing.

+ Precise cooking and service - In some cases the flavours are too

reserved for Asian cuisine

Wagamama NOODLE & SUSHI BARS Ocean Terminal, Leith (Map 5A: A1, 1) 0131 553 7036, wagamama.com | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Wagamama’s second Edinburgh branch and sixth in Scotland overall is located on the top floor of Ocean Terminal. Once ensconced within it’s easy to forget you’re in a shopping centre, though reality may be harder to shake if you’re sitting at one of a handful of tables stationed outside the restaurant’s doors. The chain’s signature wooden bench seating conveys functionality, but the atmosphere remains laid back and welcoming. The menu, meanwhile, caters for most appetites. For delicately flavoured, veg-packed and virtuous opt for the itame, a coconut and lemongrass soup base, topped with either chicken, prawn or tofu and given a zingy finish by lime and coriander. It’s gluten-free and, for those with intolerances, staff have a list of which dishes are allergen-free or can be adapted to suit. For comfort food, you can’t go wrong with the deepfried, Panko-breadcrumb-coated chicken katsu curry served with chopstickfriendly sticky rice. The lack of branch individuality – even the background music is the same in every branch – may stop it feeling like a fine-dining experience, but it’s a very pleasant one nonetheless. + Welcoming staff - Kirin may be a premium beer but £5.75 for 500ml is a premium price

FISH Scotland’s rugged coasts and chilly tides are as bountiful as they are beautiful. In Edinburgh’s fish restaurants you can spend a little or a lot. A platter of lobster, langoustine and oysters is special-occasion fare for most, but a bowl of blue Shetland mussels or smoky Cullen skink is still an inexpensive treat. And if you care as much for tomorrow’s catch as for today’s, watch out for an increasing number of menus noting provenance and sustainable sourcing. Reviewer: Margaret Craik

Café Royal Circle Bar 19 West Register Street, New Town See Bars & Pubs

Café Royal Oyster Bar 19a West Register Street, New Town (Map 1B: B6, 46) 0131 556 1884, caferoyaledinburgh.co.uk | £30 (lunch) / £30 (dinner)

Does the revolving door into the Café Royal Oyster Bar have magical properties? It almost might. A spin through that door and you’re timetravelling back to 1863 when this gorgeous Victorian building welcomed

its first patrons and gave fashionable Edinburgh ladies and gents a taste of Parisian café society. Fine stained glass and intricately gilded plasterwork recall the café’s high Victorian heyday. Oysters can be had in a variety of ways – perhaps Rockefeller with mornay sauce and spinach, or wrapped in pancetta Kilpatrick-style, or simply over crushed ice and lemon and washed down with a bottle of the house favourite Lanson Black Label NV. Platters bring together lobster, crevettes and shellfish with garlic butter, white wine and fresh herbs, and there are also ‘main event’ dishes of typical Scottish meat as well as fish. Despite its name, the Oyster Bar is definitely a restaurant operation with prices and style to match, but the adjacent Circle Bar provides an equally splendid setting for a dram or Scottish cask ale, with burgers and sandwiches on offer in addition to the seafood. + Oysters in glorious period surroundings - Food not so strong apart from the simple seafood

Fishers Bistro 1 The Shore, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 15) 0131 554 5666, fishersbistros.co.uk | £13 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Imagine your wish list for a great seafood bistro. What about a centuriesold signal tower dockside in the Port of Leith, with outside tables for when the sun’s over the yardarm, a snug

Yes Sushi JAPANESE 89 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 93) 0131 220 1887, yessushi.co.uk | £9.90 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Japanese dining has certainly taken off in Edinburgh but Yes Sushi has an edge for casual dining. ‘All-you-can-eat’ often has the worrying sentiment of truck stops and student cafs but Yes Sushi’s maki and hot pot special is good quality, widely varied, fun and, yes, seemingly endless. Maki options are many, from raw to roasted. Moist roast duck rewards non-fishy types but salmon skin is a good segue into a light aquatic moment. Order as many as you like, but pace wisely given what’s ahead. Mix and match ample, visibly fresh seafood, meat and veggies – no tired ingredients here. Table-filling platters laden with razor clams, mussels and squid chum funghi, kelp and leafy greens. Thinly sliced towers of lamb, beef and pork might overwhelm the unprepared but be brave. Torn between spicy or subtle stock? Pots subdivide! A dipping sauce station enables simplicity or complexity, but recipes provide a steer. Not all diners choose to hot pot (these tables need to be requested) and a vast menu of tempura, sushi, soups, noodles and more await. Either way, if you feel hungry, and adventurous, dive in. + Wanting to eat the whole lot - Forgetting to stop while it’s still possible to stand

ONLINE LISTINGS PHOTO © CAITLIN COOKE

For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps and links, go to food.list.co.uk Accessible on all devices including smartphones and tablets, food.list. co.uk includes extended write-ups, connected events, linked features and search functions for food and drink venues across Scotland. Fishers Bistro: pull up a stool to one of the city’s best-loved seafood bars 70 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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wood-panelled bar and a chalk board of specials majoring on unfussy fishy freshness? There’s some lovely stuff going on here, from the simple mussels and fish soup on the weekday fixedprice deal, right up to the £80 hot shellfish platter or 20oz chateaubriand, both requiring 24 hours’ notice. Topnotch smoked haddock is great comfort food, whether served hot with spinach and Charlotte potatoes to sook up the hollandaise, or given a bright modern twist in a carpaccio-style starter topped with a dollop of crème-fraîche and a scattering of chilli and purslane. There’s the odd eye-off-the-ball moment: coley, even fresh in from Scrabster, needs a punchy supporting cast to lend flavour while Tarbert cockles with capers is a bit too much of a salty fisticuffs. But with its friendly bistro atmosphere and engaging style, Fishers in Leith remains a stalwart. + Relaxed dining in atmospheric old Leith building - No sunshine on the outside tables of this corner of Leith till well on in the day

4 Fishers in the City 58 Thistle Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 79) 0131 225 5109, fishersrestaurantgroup.co.uk | £13 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

This converted warehouse on Thistle Street has been a benchmark for seafood dining since Fishers in the City opened here in 2001. With dark wood balustrades and a sociable bar, it’s a relaxed and polished establishment smart enough to keep old favourites rolling while working plenty that’s fresh, intriguing and seasonal into the monthly menu changes. Prime Scottish lobster and hand-dived Orkney scallops shine with a simple tarragon and chervil butter, while at the more modest end of the price spectrum are perennials such as plump fishcakes and crunchy beerbattered haddock. Between the top-end fishy big boys and the homely favourites sits the à la carte, where the likes of Scottish halibut and lemon sole mix it up with global influences, seasonal vegetables and foraged herbs. To finish, the only downside of desserts such as a stem ginger and treacle tart with maple and walnut ice-cream is that it might mean passing on the artisan cheeses. And if the Montrachet Grand Cru at £400 a bottle is too much of a stretch, there are still 20 wines to choose from by the glass. + The noon–6pm fixed-price deals are no poor relation to the à la carte - Fixed-price offers apart, fine seafood doesn’t come cheap

The King’s Wark 36 The Shore, Leith See Bars & Pubs

Loch Fyne Seafood and Grill 25 Pier Place, Newhaven Harbour, Leith (Map 5A: A2, off) 0131 559 3900, lochfyne-restaurants.com | £10.45 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

This 19th-century former fish market makes a fine setting for a seafood restaurant, with arched floor-to-ceiling windows flooding the airy dining space with light and outdoor tables from which to appreciate the view of the port of Newhaven and the Firth of Forth. Seafood for both the restaurant and the onsite fishmonger is still to some extent sourced from the Loch Fyne shellfish operation in Argyll, although the restaurant itself is now separately owned and part of a UK-wide chain. The menu has pretty much all bases covered, and isn’t confined solely to seafood. So whether you have children in tow and

are looking for an inexpensive fixedprice lunch, fancy picking and choosing your own seafood platter or even crave a burger or steak, there should be something to suit. [Not recently visited.]

The Mussel and Steak Bar • 110 West Bow, Grassmarket, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 38) 0131 225 5028 • 15 Jeffrey Street, Old Town (Map 2B: B2, 3) musselandsteakbar.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

‘I’ve been cooking it for nine years but the customers won’t let me take it off the menu.’ Despite the chef’s mock despair, the customers’ point is pretty clear, with folk piling in for the walletfriendly set lunch, plus daily specials and the pricier-but-worth-it à la carte. Surprises really aren’t the deal at this fast-paced Grassmarket eatery, but what might surprise anyone not in the know is just how well they do what they do – and they’re opening another Old Town branch in spring 2014 to prove it. Grassfed Scotch beef aged for 38 days means superlative steaks, chargrilled precisely as requested. Mussels are sustainably rope-grown; oysters and queen scallops are pearly and plump. At under £20, the hot roast seafood platter is great value and features shellfish, crevettes and fish of the day, all glazed and glossy with a lick of aioli and lemon. A warm tattie scone kicks any blini into touch as a partner for Arran smoked salmon, while other goodies include nobbly crabcakes and rib-sticking puds. There’s a decent drinks menu, and the 20-plus malts include five whisky flights starting from £14 for three. Didn’t somebody say the customer is always right? + Cooking, service and sourcing, it’s all good - The TV screen doesn’t add anything, even if it’s off or showing restaurant promos on mute

Mussel Inn 61–65 Rose Street, New Town (Map 1A: C5, 66) 0131 225 5979, mussel-inn.com | £7.50 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

How to sum up the Mussel Inn? Seven words: does what it says on the tin. Scottish mussels in garlicky, gingery, hot and sour sauce; mussels with leeks, punchy Dijon mustard and cream; briny blue mussels tucked into seafood platters with scallops and tiger prawns, or by the brimming potful, their provenance proudly chalked up on the blackboard each day beside the catch of the day. Shellfish this fresh conjures up a breezy Shetland seashore rather than Edinburgh’s Rose Street. This brightly lit and buzzing caféstyle eatery is as popular for the short order £7.50 express lunch as it is for casual evening dining. If you want to go upscale and spend more, they will chargrill king scallops for you and match their sweetness with a tasty carrot and mascarpone purée, or stir-fry tiger prawns with noodles, Thai style, or even rustle up an Aberdeen Angus beefburger in a sourdough bun. But with scallops, oysters (and, yes, mussels) this good, maybe best keep it simple. Just like it says on the tin. + Top notch, sustainably sourced Scottish shellfish - Not much elbow room

4 Ondine 2 George IV Bridge, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 22) 0131 226 1888, ondinerestaurant.co.uk | Closed Sun | £22 (set lunch) / £35 (dinner)

The original Ondine was a water nymph. And if she was anything like her restaurant namesake, she must have been quite a girl. Dark and coolly elegant, dressed in shades of silver,

black and shimmery charcoal greys. The kind you might see on a Friday evening, perching cocktail in hand at the horseshoe-shaped oyster bar watching the chefs at work, or seated at one of the surrounding tables and gazing dreamily out of one of those big first-floor windows at the Old Town street scene below. Stylish she may be, but this Ondine is also friendly and fun, the sort that can sparkle with friends over an Innes and Gunn beer with haddock and chips, or dive right into the finger-lickingly garlicky fabulousness of a roast shellfish platter piled with rock oysters, hand-dived scallops, langoustine and native lobster. Owner-chef Roy Brett doesn’t pander to the sort of culinary gymnastics designed to win stars but with his uncompromising sourcing and focus on presenting seafood in a style that is both approachable and delicious, Ondine is right on the money. + From a half dozen Loch Fyne oysters to a bowl of Pernod-infused French style fish stew or a perfect halibut boulangère, seafood doesn’t get better than this - Prices aren’t greedy, but for those on a budget, it may still be dream on

The Ship on the Shore 24–26 The Shore, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 17) 0131 555 0409, theshipontheshore. co.uk | £18 (lunch) / £30 (dinner)

Not, in fact, a ship but a longestablished waterside venue specialising in fine wine and fine Scottish seafood. Dark wood and stained glass make for a cosy and comfortable atmosphere, while old Admiralty charts hark back to the times of Leith’s seagoing and wine-importing heyday. The Ship’s day starts with a hearty breakfast, and continues with menu dishes or seafood platters and a ‘crustacea and mollusc’ offering from available noon till late. Quality seafood is underlined by credentials such as membership of the Sustainable Restaurant Association, while Dunfermline merchants L’Art du Vin provide a strong wine list which features a notable number by the glass. [Not recently visited.]

4 HITLIST

FISH 4 Fishers in the City A menu with a seasonal slant and an easy charm that suits most occasions.

4 Ondine Classy venue consistently delivering one of the best seafood dining experiences in the city.

to shame, including 17 by the glass or carafe plus sherries and wines matched to the (excellent) desserts. + Friendly wee place that’s quick to make you feel like a regular - Just a touch of nostalgia for the original Melinda’s hippy vibe

Twenty Princes Street: Grill & Smokehouse 20 Princes Street, City Centre See Scottish

Whighams Wine Cellars 13 Hope Street, West End See Bars & Pubs

The Skerries Dunstane House Hotel, 4 West Coates, West End See Scottish

Sweet Melindas 11 Roseneath Street, Southside (Map 3C: B2, 36) 0131 229 7953, sweetmelindas.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | Closed Sun/Mon | £7.95 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

This wee bistro has been charming the neighbourhood with its friendly personality and good cooking for over 15 years. But times change, and new owners Chris Hepburn and Alasdair Wilkie are quietly going about a gentle reboot to the formula. Summer 2013 saw the arrival of fresh cream and grey paintwork, while decluttering the pictures down to a few crisp black and white photos has let the space breathe. The menu’s still short, made from scratch, and inspired by whatever Eddie the fishmonger next door has fresh on the slab each day. Sardines relish the sharpness of lemon and capers, while dark caramelised onions sit perfectly with creamy goat’s cheese topped with roasted fig. Presentation fits the food, so ribbons of pale horseradish and puréed purple beetroot gracefully encircle an elegant sliver of silvery mackerel, while a capacious bowl does right by a rustic stew of red snapper with chorizo. Wine suggestions for each dish come from a list that would put many ‘up the toon’

Passionate about Seafood 61-65 Rose Street Edinburgh EH2 2NH Reservations 0131 225 5979 157 Hope Street Glasgow G2 2UQ Reservations 0141 572 1405

www.mussel-inn.com The List Eating & Drinking Guide 71

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FRENCH The Auld Alliance has long been strong in Edinburgh and is particularly successful when it marries French techniques with Scotland’s fabulous natural larder. While the city’s top tables share an undoubted French focus (as evidenced by a certain Monsieur Michelin) that’s not the whole story. An equally clear emphasis on regional cooking means it’s just as easy to kick back with bread, wine and cheese if that’s what takes your (French) fancy. Reviewers: John Cooke, Jo Laidlaw

Bistro Provence 88 Commercial Street, Leith (Map 5A: B1, 4) 0131 344 4295, bistroprovence. co.uk | Closed Mon | £12.50 (set lunch) / £21 (set dinner)

Although a relative newcomer (opening September 2013), there’s plenty of experience behind Bistro Provence, with stints in La Garrigue, Plumed Horse and The Kitchin between the team. For a place that’s still establishing itself on the scene, the monthly changing set menu is good value and hits a strong stride. The most successful dishes heavily feature typically Provençale ingredients – tomatoes, olive oil, garlic and other sunshiny things – like a starter of baked scallops which sings with summer colour. That said, a more wintry pigeon breast served with a Brussels sprout potato cake and juniper is a fantastically earthy combination. Sea bass is beautifully cooked, with plenty of creamy mash, while roast rabbit is delicious, although the accompanying noodles and creamy mustard sauce could stand a tiny bit more pep to cut through the creaminess. It’s all served up in a pleasant conservatory space with friendly service, where, come the sun, you could even convince yourself you’re on holiday. + Funky herb garden bar - Desserts don’t quite match up to the rest of the experience – yet

Café St Honoré 34 North West Thistle Street Lane, New Town See Scottish

Café Cassis Salisbury Hotel, Salisbury Road, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

Café Marlayne (Antigua Street) 13 Antigua Street, New Town (Map 1B: D5, 40) 0131 558 8244, cafemarlayne. com | £14.50 (lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

Don’t come here to snap pictures of your grub before you scoff it. Not that what’s on your plate is unappetising, or entirely uneasy on the eye. Rather, this is more relaxed French-influenced café than starched-linen restaurant. It’s an all-day affair. Start early with a Belgian waffle or full fry-up, sit and sip a coffee, grab a lunch panini or croque monsieur from an all-day ‘snack’ menu, satisfy your cake cravings and, finally, enjoy a few courses of French-ish food when supper rolls around. With high, pitched ceiling, mirror ball, eclectic artworks and high-flowered wallpaper, it contrasts with its very little cousin up on Thistle Street. Yes, there’s boudin noir and pork cheek bourguignon, but a chunky cheeseburger with (rather wimpy) chips, or a Thai fishcake are more United Nations than purely Francophile. The cheeses, however, are French to the core and the huge (11 – count ’em) dessert choices hail direct from the land of delicious. + Pleasing most of the people, most of the day - Flaccid French fries

Café Marlayne (Thistle Street) 76 Thistle Street, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 71) 0131 226 2230, cafemarlayne.com | £12 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

If anywhere deserved the hoary old estate agent’s term ‘compact and bijou’, it’s this lilliputian bistro on Thistle Street’s restaurant row. Closely packed tables in a cosy room are good for eavesdroppers, but not gossip merchants preferring privacy. The menu is not overtly French, although there is a touch here or there, like the boudin noir among the starters. Rather, the accent is on middle-brow,

mid-priced gastro-pub faves served in generous portions. Scallops, mussels, pork belly and lamb cutlets are all present and correctly cooked. The lamb is properly pink with a dab of herb crust, on a comforting bed of spinach. Unfortunately, a side order of vegetables gets a cold shoulder from the kitchen, resulting in an over-filled bowl crowded with nondescript mash, plus carrots and beans and broccoli – more school dinner than evening out. However, even Fettes College doesn’t boast a choice of eight desserts, as well as an Iain Mellis cheeseboard (with good French representation). This is casual neighbourhood dining, as comfortable as an old sweater – nothing too chic, but all the better for it really. + Très casual - Give veg a chance, please

Castle Terrace 33/35 Castle Terrace, West End See Scottish

Chez Jules 109 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 90) 0131 226 6992, chezjulesbistro. com | £7.90 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Cheap and cheerful is the name of the game at Chez Jules. Customers here can enjoy classic, unfussy French cuisine at seriously bargain prices; where else in the centre of town can you enjoy a decent steak for under fifteen quid? A starter of cuisses de grenouilles – traditional frog legs in garlic and parsley, white wine and cream – can be ordered for a group to share. It’s weird, but hey, that’s all part of the fun. Main courses are standard basics cooked well, and if you’ve the appetite, surf and turf is a real highlight with a half Scottish lobster in garlic and brandy butter and a plump ribeye steak served straight up with beautifully crisp French fries. In keeping with the menu, the interior is basic, but with a rustic, Gallic charm, along with a smattering of proprietor Pierre Levicky’s slightly eccentric original artwork adorning the walls. [Not recently visited.]

L’Escargot Blanc 17 Queensferry Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 13) 0131 226 1890, lescargotblanc.

4 HITLIST

FRENCH 4 L’Escargot Bleu Hearty food with a hearty welcome – a winning combination from this classic Broughton Street bistro.

4 La Garrigue Jean Michael Gauffre brings a very genuine taste of the Languedoc to Edinburgh.

4 Petit Paris This Grassmarket institution proves you can keep on keeping on with the classics, if they are done consistently well.

4 The Pompadour by Galvin A ravishing room putting out equally ravishing plates. Madame de Pompadour would heartily approve.

4 Restaurant Martin Wishart Technically perfect food that doesn’t put a foot wrong – long may its star shine.

4 21212 Paul Kitching continues on his own sweet way with a brand of collage cooking that’s Michelinstarred, but always highly individual. co.uk | Closed Sun | £10.90 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

Perhaps the less well-known of the two ‘snails’, L’Escargot Blanc undoubtedly suffers from an uninspiring entrance. But it’s worth climbing the stairs to be greeted by a charmingly French welcome and a huge deli-fridge with promises of good things to come: colourful salads and terrines firming up for tomorrow’s service. Scottish sourcing and slow cooking are the names of the game here – the beef for a special of boeuf bourguignon is marinated for a couple of days, gently cooked for at least a whole afternoon, then served with deserved ceremony at the table from a gleaming copper pot. Slow-baked rabbit has been similarly loved, served with a lake of mustard sauce you can’t help but keep spooning up long after your appetite is sated. Fish soup is classic, un-muckedabout-with, pretty much perfect. There is a real generosity here, and that translates to hearty portions, so if you can’t quite manage the tarte tatin for pud then a wee glass of boozy morello cherries is just the thing to nibble on while you contemplate life, food and your immediate relocation to the south of France. + Slow, loving cooking - The entrance really does need some work

4 L’Escargot Bleu 56 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 17) 0131 557 1600, lescargotbleu. co.uk | Closed Sun | £12.90 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

21212 (page 75): artful and witty, the innovative cooking here keeps everyone on their toes 72 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

L’Escargot Bleu is the kind of place that compels you to burst into your dimly remembered and slightly embarrassing school French. It’s just . . . so French. In fact, it’s everything you’d expect from a

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French bistro, except (whisper it) with better ingredients, as most produce (apart from cheese, wine and the odd bit of horse and rabbit) is sourced in Scotland. That means snails from Barra, duck from Gartmorn and fabulous beef from one of three breeds, including Dexter. This is best sampled in the steak tartare, piquant and yielding and mixed to your taste at the table. A special of rose veal is beyond tender and could single-handedly bring this Scottish, high-welfare product back into fashion, while plaice and prawns surprisingly hold their own against a ComtĂŠ cheese sauce. Desserts include a tarte au chocolat (mais bien sĂťr!) which manages to be intensely chocolatey yet light at the same time, and a not-soFrench-but-still-fantastic sticky toffee pudding. Vegetarians are perhaps a tiny bit of an afterthought but overall the cooking here is warm, generous, joyful and clearly straight from the heart. + The veal - Tables are a bit squashed together

Fleur de Sel 61 Frederick Street, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 75) 0131 225 7983, fleurdeselcreperie.co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon

A young, third-generation restaurateur from Brittany by way of Versailles, Julien Testault didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to spend long in Edinburgh to notice that among the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection of genuinely French and pseudo-French restaurants, there wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a decent crĂŞperie to be found. Taking over the city-centre premises occupied by La pâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;tite folie for the last 17 years, he uses buckwheat and flour imported from Brittany to produce a range of (savoury) galettes and (sweet) crĂŞpes, alongside half a dozen salads and omelettes. Fillings range from the classically simple â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ham and emmental galette, or honey crĂŞpe â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to luxurious but still essentially uncomplicated combinations of regional French specialities such as a galette Savoyarde with reblochon, potatoes, lardons and onions. An easy venue for families, vegetarians and tourists, the place has a smart yet not extravagant gun-mental grey colour scheme dotted with coastal images. Lunch deals are available, along with a late-afternoon special of a crĂŞpe with coffee or hot chocolate for ÂŁ4. [Not open for full review at time of going to press. See list. co.uk for updates.]

carried off the award for best regional selection in the UK, beating many more illustrious names. Relax, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in good (French) hands here. + Le real deal - A somewhat soggy soufflĂŠ

Henri of Edinburgh 48 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge See CafĂŠs

The Honours

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58a North Castle Street, New Town See Bistros & Brasseries

Hotel du Vin Bistro 11 Bristo Place, Old Town See Bistros & Brasseries

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The Kitchin

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78 Commercial Quay, Leith See Scottish

Maison Bleue 36â&#x20AC;&#x201C;38 Victoria Street, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 28) 0131 226 1900, maisonbleuerestaurant.com | ÂŁ9.90 (set lunch) / ÂŁ25 (dinner)

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Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to spot the North African influence of the Algerian owner and chef at this multi-storey labyrinth on Victoria Street. The comfortable low, cushioned seating that greets you is more souk than chateau, while the menu has many nods to the immigrant cuisines now a familiar part of Franceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. (For good measure, there are also haggis balls, Thai-style Cullen skink and Creole gumbo here.) Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an inoffensive mixture, delivered with a chic finesse in an atmospheric setting thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all creaky bare floorboards, spiral staircase, giant mirrors and bold paintings. What comes to the table is often strongly flavoured, always artfully presented. Peppery Merguez lamb sausages, lamb tagine, saffron and harissa couscous turn up the spice levels. A â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;surprise calamariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; dials it up to 11, and might be a chilli too far. Dishes like a slow-cooked duck leg deliver the Gallic touch, though a Frenchman might object to the quality of the rather watery bean cassoulet in which it rests. A salade verte also meanders off the classic leafy green path, including a plethora of peppers. But, as they say in France, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;vive la difference!â&#x20AC;&#x2122; + Boho-chic atmosphere - Haggis balls? Really?

Galvin Brasserie de Luxe Caledonian Hotel, Princes Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

4 La Garrigue 31 Jeffrey Street, Old Town (Map 2B: B2, 2) 0131 557 3032, lagarrigue.co.uk | ÂŁ12.50 (set lunch) / ÂŁ25 (dinner)

On the very short list of French restaurateurs whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve imported a genuine taste of their homelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s regional cuisine to Scotland, La Garrigueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jean Michel Gauffre will certainly be near the top. Here youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find the professionalism and ĂŠlan of a proper French outpost, with a degree of equalitĂŠ that means special night-outers get the same care, attention and charm from the eagle-eyed patron as do the regulars, some of whom dine here daily. Like the summery paintings on the walls, the colours, tastes and textures of Jean Michelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s food bring to the table a real sense of the Languedoc, in the bountiful south â&#x20AC;&#x201C; without losing too much in the translation. Terrine of rabbit, hare and pickled walnuts, with a lentil salad, sets you up for a perfectly crisped fillet of sea bass, or something like a substantial cassoulet, or rabbit filled with a green olive tapenade. Oh, and the wine list â&#x20AC;&#x201C; so exceptional an introduction to the viniculture of the Languedoc that it

Le MarchĂŠ FranĂ§ais 9a West Maitland Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 63) 0131 221 1894, lemarche-francais.co.uk | Closed Sun | ÂŁ8.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ16.95 (set dinner)

The human dynamo that is Pierre Pelletier has had his hands full lately, keeping his French Market alive and turning out excellent-value, classic bistro-style French food while horrendous tram works created carnage outside his front door. Now thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s over, his eye is on a full, much-needed refurbishment, but without deviating from a well-proven culinary formula. So, there are breads and patisserie fresh out of the in-house bakery from early doors, then coffees and snacks all day, simple well-priced sit-down lunches, and (Friday and Saturday evenings) a dinner service featuring familiar French favourites at a very modest price point. Boeuf bourguignon, escargots, crĂŞpes, confit de canard, tartiflette â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all are present and correct, along with les salades aplenty and a handsome choice of desserts. Floor-to-ceiling shelves also carry a fair selection of French wines, from a modest, easy-going house merlot to a push-the-boat-out vintage from the Rhone Valley. In keeping with the name, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a smattering of French cheeses,

Tudor House 9 Randolph Place Edinburgh Tel: 0131 225 8678 ZZZ ODSWLWHIROLH FR XN

9 Randolph Place. Tel 0131 538 1815. ZZZ OHGLYLQ FR XN

Virginie, the owner regularly visits Ethiopia and supports 800 orphans with a feeding program LQIR#ODSWLWHIROLH FR XN _ LQIR#OHGLYLQ FR XN

11 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH, EH10 4HN

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macarons and tinned specialities on sale too, but these play a minor role as Monsieur Pelletier doggedly keeps on keeping on. + Incredible value - Refurbishment well overdue

Marie Delices 125 Comiston Road, Southside See Cafes: Wee Places

Patisserie Madeleine 27b Raeburn Place, Stockbridge See Cafes: Wee Places

4 Petit Paris 38â&#x20AC;&#x201C;40 Grassmarket, Old Town (Map 2A: A3, 35) 0131 226 2442, petitparisrestaurant.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | ÂŁ11.90 (set lunch) / ÂŁ20 (dinner)

Like a classic song that never quite loses its power â&#x20AC;&#x201C; despite multiple plays â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a good dish can continue to hit the spot. Like a generous venison stew arriving in a copper pan, rich with a properly reduced winey sauce, with a simple, well-dressed green salad on the side. A dish worthy of plenty of bread to mop up the very last drop. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the kind of keep-it-classique approach thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s made this modest, two-roomed, white-walled bistro in the heart of the Grassmarket a bit of an Edinburgh institution. A fish soup with proper croutons, garlicky rouille and gruyere cheese is a reliable starter. And how about crĂ¨me caramel for dessert? Why not. This is definitely not nouvelle cuisine; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the French greatest hits playing here, on repeat. And if you like that type of thing, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll leave singing a praise or two. Even if the cheeseboard is a bit of a mystery to the staff, just shrug and order another carafe of the decent house red wine, as they do in Paris.

Cafe Marlayne (page 72): informal neighbourhood dining, French style + Comfort eating, French-style - Fromage not so grande

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/Âś(VFDUJRW %OHX French Twist using the Best of Scotland 0131 557 16 00 56 Broughton Street Edinburgh, EH1 3SA

www.lescargotbleu.co.uk facebook.com/LescargotBleu twitter.com/Lescargot_B

La Pâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;tite Folie Tudor House, 9 Randolph Place, West End (Map 4: B1, 8) 0131 225 8678, laptitefolie.co.uk | Closed Sun | ÂŁ11.50 (set lunch) / ÂŁ21 (dinner)

A decade of unswervingly French service to diners in the West End has built a loyal following of patrons from business lunches to family gathering and romantic evenings in the fenestrationlavished upper dining room at Randolph Place. The kitchen remains inventive, not resting on old laurels. So while steamed mussels remain a frequent favourite, herb-crusted carpaccio of venison adds a wink of surprise to the starters. Pan-fried calfâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s liver, so often absent from menus around town, sits proudly on celeriac and wholegrain pomme purĂŠe, while grilled fillet of sea bass is gently nestled in tagliatelle, crab and white wine cream. Tempting desserts may be out-manoeuvred by the loyal French cheese board, which given the serious wine list to accompany is perhaps unsurprising. + Consistently appealing menus delivered in a charming setting - Vegetarians deserve more attention from this successful kitchen

Pierre Victoire 18 Eyre Place, New Town (Map 1B: A2, 10) 0131 556 0006, pierrevictoirerestaurant.co.uk | ÂŁ7.90 (set lunch) / ÂŁ12.90 (set dinner)

No story of Edinburghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dining scene in the last two decades can be fully told without Pierre Victoire being mentioned. Through thick and thin, ups and downs, Pierre Levicky is still part of the scene; these days heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s operating in relative seclusion at the lower end of the New Town near Canonmills. The medium-sized, and still popular, restaurant of today is probably not the PV of old â&#x20AC;&#x201C; although the accents, the scribbled blackboards and the everpresent classic dishes of garlic snails, frogâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s legs and moules frĂŽtes are as 74 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

essential as the bentwood cafĂŠ chairs and red-checked tablecloths. The sense of spontaneity â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which on different nights and to different folk can be translated either as enjoyable buzz or impending chaos â&#x20AC;&#x201C; is attractive, and thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always likely to be something on the menu to draw you in. A focus on keen prices means that cheaper cuts are a regular feature: featherblade, for example, is the focus of a hearty and delicious main. At other times, a lack of due care and attention mars simple dishes: an over-dressed salad or a slapdash cheese board. [Not recently visited.]

4 The Pompadour by Galvin Caledonian Hotel, Princes Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 21) 0131 222 8777, thepompadourbygalvin.com | Closed Sun/Mon | ÂŁ58 (set dinner)

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one of the prettiest dining rooms in Edinburgh: a Grade 2 listed hand-painted froth, elegantly spruced-up during the Caleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recent refurb and wholly revitalised by the arrival of the Londonlauded Galvin brothers and their appointed head chef, Craig Sandle. As youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d expect, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fine dining, with its accompanying silver, linen and precision of service â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a warm heart beating under the formality and staff genuinely want you to have a good time. (Which you will, with food this good.) Squab pigeon is tender, almost smoky, while the presentation of a Skye crab tartlet is worthy of a still-life painting. Venison is technically accomplished, balancing cocoa nibs, Brazil nuts, quince and orange. Monkfish is moist, meaty and more than lives up to both the bourguignon accompaniments and a juicy red from the wine tasting menu (going by the glass is a good way to tackle a heavy-duty wine list and theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll happily mix and match for you). Finally desserts â&#x20AC;&#x201C; theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re just beautiful. At ÂŁ58 for 3 courses, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not cheap, but the care, attention and surroundings mean the Pompadour adds

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up to some of the best value around. + All this available for £30 pre-theatre midweek? A steal - It is a touch hushed

4 Restaurant Martin Wishart 54 The Shore, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 24) 0131 553 3557, martin-wishart.co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon | £28.50 (set lunch) / £75 (set dinner)

You know that moment at the theatre when the lights go down, just before the curtain goes up? The bit when the audience holds its collective breath? That’s what an encounter with Martin Wishart’s tasting menu is like. You scan the menu before you eat, of course, but mere words don’t – can’t – prepare you for the fanfare of exquisite little performances that then parade their way across your table. Yes, this is food as theatre, delivered by a chef at the height of his powers and a team who are almost fanatical in delivering a near-perfect experience. True, it’s not entirely a laid-back experience, but talking in the theatre is rude anyway. Far better to settle back and enjoy a ceviche of halibut which is so fresh the fish is practically still dancing; loin of Ayrshire hare so tender it’s a love scene; langoustine with white chocolate, as well balanced as the perfect double-act. Cleverly matched wines provide the musical accompaniment, and there’s an amuse-bouche, surprise courses . . . heck, even the salt-sharded butter doesn’t put a foot wrong. So settle back. Give yourself over to pleasure. Enjoy the performance. + Special kudos for the fantastic vegetarian menu - Yes, it’s expensive. But it’s worth it

4 21212 3 Royal Terrace, New Town (Map 5B: A6, 27) 0845 22 21212 or 0131 523 1030, 21212restaurant.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | Closed Sun/Mon | £22 (set lunch) / £53 (five-course set dinner)

Paul Kitching has been cooking his own sweet way since his Michelin-starred fine-diner opened five years ago. It starts with a menu beating a distinctive 2-1-21-2 rhythm of choices at each course. The two ‘ones’ are soup and cheese courses, punctuating the starter, main and dessert ‘twos’. Phew. Kitching’s cooking isn’t simple either, layering multiple ingredients – as many as ten in some cases – to create a kind of collage cooking. It’s a distinctive, light, texturally interesting experience, as you spear myriad bite-size morsels with an artful fork deliberately missing its middle tines. There’s some wit (and a good beefy hit) in a ‘meat pie’ that is anything but. A riff on West Indian pork, rice and beans is miles from Montego Bay. Desserts keep the tongue-in-cheekiness going with a nod and surreal wink to Turkish Delight(ful) – get it, get it? Oh, and the cheese course is a night out in itself, with at least a dozen small portions of French, English and Welsh cheeses. It’s slick, entertaining stuff – and the wine cellar certainly doesn’t let the side down either. Proof that individuality can have its place. + Bits of brilliance - Sometimes less is actually more

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps and links, go to

food.list.co.uk

INDIAN From quirky cafés to highend sophistication, the Indian dining scene in Edinburgh has never been more eclectic or diverse. While the classic curry house model is very much in fine fettle, flavours of the subcontinent’s southern region are being fully explored, as is cuisine from further afield such as Pakistan, Tibet and Nepal. From fusion restaurants to traditional thali, and more modern tapas-style restaurants, diners can enjoy a huge variety of tastes not just in and around the city, but from a single plate. Reviewers: Tom Bruce-Gardyne, Beth Darbyshire, Miranda Heggie, Christopher Lambton

4 Bindi 45 St Patrick’s Square, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 3) 0131 662 1807, bindiedinburgh.com | Closed Mon | £5 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Entering Bindi you are met with welcoming smiles and a pleasing waft of incense and spices. Charismatic owner-chef Bindiya Kanani has created something special here: a marriage of vegetarian East African and Indian flavours that draws on family tradition. The menu has some unknowns, but the Bombay chowpatty taster and the nashto sampler offer a definitive overview of the starter menu, punctuated with lush chutneys, cassava and juicy pomegranates (to name a few). The well-crafted thali is incredible value, bursting with heat and layers of spice. Save room for the inventive pudding menu: the mithai taster offers tangy and sweet selections for a satisfying end to the meal. With a truly eclectic style and delicious food, Bindi will have you coming back for more and telling your friends to do the same. + Food, service and menu are crafted by loving hands - When word gets out, it’ll be hard to get a table

Bollywood: The Coffee Box 99a Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: B3, 27) 07814 603938, facebook.com/ BollywoodTheCoffeeBox | Closed Mon | £6 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

One day Nutan Bula would love to open her own Indian restaurant, but for the last three years she has made do with an old police box – the only one in town serving curry. It is an impressive feat, cooking up dishes to order in such cramped conditions on a single-ring electric stove. Customers are offered spoonfuls to taste to see if it’s to their satisfaction, and depending on the weather, the 10–15 minute wait passes quickly enough with such a bubbly owner to chat to. In the summer Nutan plans to have a table and chairs, though you can easily picnic on the adjoining Bruntsfield Links. The blackboard menu changes regularly, but expect samosas and tasty vegetable pakoras, warming rasam soup, as well as simple curries like chicken or chickpea and potato. The curries are more savoury than creamy, and as spicy as you like. Compared to neighbouring takeaway chains, the Coffee Box is a real one-off. + Great alfresco value - Fickle Scottish weather

Britannia Spice 150 Commercial Street, Ocean Drive, Leith (Map 5A: A2, 2) 0131 555 2255, britanniaspice.co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Polished wood, brass and an array of nautical chandlery give the impression that you have stumbled into the first-class dining saloon on board an East India Company steamship. The waiters are scrubbed up in white with gold epaulettes and they even refer to the large dining area as the ‘deck’. But Britannia Spice is firmly anchored in an old bonded warehouse in Leith, where the proximity of the Ocean Terminal shopping centre (and the eponymous Royal Yacht) means a steady flow of diners. The menu is multi-ethnic: Nepalese, Indian, Bangladeshi and Thai. Signature dishes include Shatkora Gosht, lamb cooked with lime leaves and Bengal chillies, and Geang Kewow Wan, a green curry with coconut milk and lemongrass. Most popular is a Bangladeshi dish with king prawns wrapped in chicken, while the north Indian garlic chicken appears anxious not to offend and needs extra green chillis to make it sing. The wine list is well chosen, including Syrah, Nero d’Avola, and Shiraz all punchy enough to cut through even the spiciest dish. + Bright and welcoming - Slightly tame

Ignite 272–274 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 62) 0131 228 5666, igniterestaurant.co.uk | £8.50 (set lunch) / £19.50 (dinner)

Not far from Haymarket you’ll find an inviting venue for a pre- or post-journey bite. Inside Ignite, Moroccan-style pendant lights and burnt-umber walls make the restaurant feel cosy – far from the hustle of a busy commute. Extending the metaphor of warmth, matching crockery with sun emblems adorn the white table linens. Among the starters, the bhari combi (spiced batter covered mushrooms stuffed with lamb mince) feel a bit elementary. But the salmon kebab, with its flavoursome and redemptive qualities, will make you forget anything that came before. The lamb vindaloo is textbook – a molten tomato sauce with tender potatoes and a seemingly endless amount of pink chunks of lamb – and excellent value, perfect for those who like serious heat. If you are feeling a bit richer, try the king prawn tandoori. When they say ‘king’, they aren’t exaggerating: these enormous prawns with nice char and heat are sure to please. Weary travellers looking for a splash of warmth and sophistication will find Ignite entirely agreeable. + Warm and cosy atmosphere - Service seems sleepy at times

Iman’s 4–8 Lochrin Buildings, Gilmore Place, Tollcross (Map 3A: B1, 12) 0131 221 1115, imans-restaurant.co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Downhill from Bruntsfield Links, between the Cameo and the King’s Theatre, Iman’s claims to offer ‘a true taste of Punjab’. This is backed up with ‘Mum’s home cooked specials’ – eight desi saag, (traditional spinach, potato and fenugreek) dishes prepared at home by the head chef’s mum and available nowhere else in town. The spacious, modern, slightly boxy interior is decked out in caramel coloured pebble-dash and lends itself to group bookings more than cosy dinners for two. Yet on the whole what Iman’s lacks in atmosphere is offset by the range of mains, including a good selection of seafood dishes, the hearty portions and reputedly the best naan bread in Edinburgh. Highlights include masala fish pakora, light and perfectly spicy; the rich, creamy desi saag lamb and the chutney-infused chicken shahi. Although unlicensed, there’s no charge for BYOB if you want to stock up on

4 HITLIST

INDIAN 4 Bindi Modern, exciting and fresh, Bindi showcases the best in Indian vegetarian cooking in a relaxed setting.

4 Mithas Innovative dishes with style and finesse, in equally stylish surroundings.

4 Rivage Passionate home cooking, with a refreshing menu which moves with the seasons.

4 Suruchi Authentic thali plates give customers their own personal buffet, while larger curry dishes are cooked with aplomb.

4 Tanjore Authentic Southern Indian cuisine served at great value prices.

4 Tuk Tuk An original and modern take on Indian street food which lets diners mix and match traditional curries with more inventive fare.

beer or wine at a nearby off-licence. + The hunger-busting portions - The risk of dining beside a raucous hen party

Kalpna 2/3 St Patrick’s Square, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 6) 0131 667 9890, kalpnarestaurant.com | Dec–Jun: Closed Sun | £8 (set lunch) / £15.50 (dinner)

Vegetarian dining can be a minefield of narrow and samey choices. Not the case at Kalpna, whose menu declares a dedication to the pleasures of Indian vegetarian food. The interior is curiously decorated with mirrored mosaics and plaster relief under comfortable and romantic lighting. The menu is as interesting as the interior, drawing inspiration from various styles of cooking from Punjabi and Gujurati to South Indian. The rajma galouti starter (grilled lentil and bean patties on crispy bread) with its delightfully contrasting textures and punchy flavours earns top marks. Their signature main dish, dam aloo kashmeri (potato ‘barrels’ stuffed with paneer, veg and nuts dressed in sweet honey, ginger, almond and saffron), is sure to please. Save room for dessert and sample the fluffy gulab juman or the skilfully crafted kulfi, both made in-house. After 30 years in the game, Kalpna is still creating top-notch vegetarian food with an inventive menu that will have you salivating, no matter your dietary persuasion. + Inventive and exciting menu - The sweet sauces can be overpowering

Kama Sutra 105–109 Lothian Road, West End (Map 4: C2, 39) 0131 229 7747, kamasutrarestaurants.com | £7.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

If you’re looking for a spot of The List Eating & Drinking Guide 75

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nourishment in between hitting a couple of Lothian Road’s bars and pubs, then Kama Sutra may serve as your pit-stop. With a menu incorporating classic curries as well as slightly more unfamiliar dishes, there’s plenty here to cater for all tastes. A starter platter for two arrives with a variety of tasty morsels, such as pleasantly spiced chicken pakora and light and feathery onion bhajis. The main courses don’t quite match up to these high standards, however, with an over-sweetened murgh chettinad that falls short of its two-chilli rating on the menu. Murgh Jaipuri is pleasantly spiced but excessively oily, as are the chapatis and nans. Service is mixed, and staff run the risk of leaving some diners feeling ignored. + Relaxed setting for a curry and a pint - Oily main dishes

Kasturi

Kasturi has a curious green and purple glow that lights up Shandwick Place like a nightclub. Tartan-clad wait staff and crisp white linen await you in this central Edinburgh locale, open since 2010. The menu boasts an impressive amount of choice, which can be slightly daunting. The deliciously light tandoori salmon tikka is a menu highlight and a nod to a Scottish menu staple not often seen coming out of a tandoor oven. Tastily charred on the exterior but tender inside, it delivers a serious kick of heat. The rack of lamb is well cooked and seasoned, and goes particularly well with the unexpected rosemary naan. Declaring yourself ‘gourmet’ is quite a tall claim to sophistication of which Kasturi, with its less than noteworthy salads and puddings, falls short. Nevertheless, the food is fresh with clean flavours and the wine list is decent. + Expertly cooked meat and fish - Uninspiring salads and puddings

Kebab Mahal 7 Nicolson Square, Old Town (Map 2A: D5, 69) 0131 667 5214, kebab-mahal. co.uk | £7.50 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

The well-worn décor and slightly greasy menu at Kebab Mahal may not have changed greatly over the years since opening in 1979, but neither have the prices. Busy with students and locals, it has the feel of a classic Indian takeaway right down to the slowly rotating doner kebab beside the charcoal grill behind the bar. Yet its popularity is not solely down to it being such good value. The hands-on owner, Mr Khan, has kept things simple, with a spread of tasty dishes that are plonked down with no pretensions. The succulent lamb cooked in a richly reduced stock makes the aloo ghoust a particular highlight, while the slightly more expensive karahi ghoust is a touch less tender. Among generous starters, which would easily do for a swift lunch, the gently spicy fish pakora is the only fish dish on the menu, while the chickpea vegetable pakora is filling if a little stodgy. Kebab Mahal may be more for meat-eaters, and only soft drinks are available, from Indian lassi to the perennial Irn-Bru. + Sense of authenticity and value - No fish curry

Khushi’s 10 Antigua Street, New Town (Map 1B: D5, 39) 0131 558 1947, khushis.com | £5.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

If at first glance you thought the stylish interior of Khushi’s restaurant, with its warm, vibrantly coloured patterns stencilled on to muted grey walls, seemed 76 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

PHOTO © CAITLIN COOKE

35–37 Shandwick Place, West End (Map 4: B1, 22) 0131 228 2441, kasturied.co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

Punjabi Junction: make tracks to the foot of Leith Walk for great value, home-style North Indian cooking

a little modern to belong to Edinburgh’s oldest Indian dining establishment then you may be right. For although it first opened its doors back in 1947, this family-run restaurant has occupied a number of premises before making the move to Antigua Street in 2011. Though the location may have changed, the Khushi family’s dedication and commitment to high-quality cooking and ingredients has not. The beautifully presented Peshwari lamb chops arrive with a tower of spiced potatoes and a pleasantly refreshing side salad. The intricately spiced murgh kolhiwara balances flavours of cashew and peanuts with poppy and mustard seeds in a light, creamy coconut sauce. While not being overly spicy, the chicken korma still maintains a good depth of flavour, and the enormous Peshwari naan, although sweet, is by no means sickly and still provides a savoury kick. + A great place to go with a large group of friends - Due to its busyness, waiting staff can be a tad brusque

Mezbaan South Indian Restaurant 14/14a Brougham Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 4) 0131 229 5578, mezbaan.co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Mezbaan has been going for nine years, serving up dishes from its South Indian arsenal that sets it apart from the mostly North Indian restaurants found in Edinburgh. Inside it looks stark, even minimal. Among the starters, the not-somini masala dosa is a winning choice, served with a sweet and savoury coconut chutney and sambar that can compete for the title of ‘best’. The wajidi ali (declared by the menu to be ‘dedicated to Maharajas of South India’) is well presented, with a rich aromatic sauce and chunks of tender chicken – fit for a king. The menu features some interesting choices and it could take a while – or a few repeat visits – to sample them all. The bread, pickles and

rice are all expertly executed and deliver big flavours, leaving you wanting to take some home – which you can, because the place also offers a takeaway service. + Excellent accompaniments - Give the puds a miss and order another side dish

Mintleaf 28 Bernard Street, Leith (Map 5A: D1, 18) 0131 555 5552, mintleafrestaurant.co.uk | £12 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Still a relative newcomer to the Leith dining scene, Mintleaf’s dusky, opulent interior sets a sophisticated undertone to this Thai and Indian restaurant. Having separate head chefs for the two menus, Mintleaf can almost seem to incorporate two restaurants in the same building. This is by no means a bad thing, as diners can freely pick and mix their way through each menu, incorporating the best of both cuisines into their meal. A Thai side of mun tod – sweet potato fritters with a sesame seed coating – could do without their saccharine dusting, but provide a lovely accompaniment to the tandoori chicken. By the same token, the crisp and fluffy garlic naan is perfect for soaking up the fragrant coconut sauce which envelopes tender pieces of chicken in the chicken Massaman. Desserts are a little uninspired, although pistachio kulfi makes for a refreshing end to both an Indian and Thai meal. + Ability to mix and match two cuisines - Indian curries are a little greasy

4 Mithas 7 Dock Place, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 8) 0131 554 0008, mithas.co.uk | No Kids (under 8) | Closed Mon | £12 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

Though Scotland’s capital may be teeming with Indian restaurants and curry houses, Mithas on Dock Place is truly one of a kind in Edinburgh. With an innovative and exciting menu which features stylish and exotic twists on Indian favourites, as well as original dishes, this restaurant

provides a fine-dining experience. Grilled scallops are plump and juicy with a fragrant coconut sauce, and fresh spinach and fig tikki, a spinach cake stuffed with fig and fresh herbs, has a delightful mix of flavours with a nice balance of sweet and savoury. A highlight of the menu is tawa lobster, a whole lobster served in the shell with a wonderfully rich tomato and honey sauce. Desserts are equally sophisticated and inventive: saffron poached pear with cinnamon ice-cream comes garnished with a sesame tuile, and the pear’s spiced cream cheese stuffing is a delicious surprise. A platter of British and French cheeses is perfectly paired with Indian accoutrements, such as sweet, fried Indian bread and spiced apple chutney. + One of a kind in Edinburgh - Cheese is straight from the fridge

The Mosque Kitchen 31–33 Nicolson Square, Southside (Map 2A: D5, 64) 0131 667 4035, mosquekitchen.com | Closed Fri 12.50– 1.50pm. | £10 (set lunch) / £7 (dinner)

Whether the original Mosque Kitchen is actually here or by the Central Mosque a few streets away is largely immaterial. All that matters if you are meeting someone is that this is the one on Nicolson Square, and that Friday lunch starts late after prayers. With an ethos of ‘keep it fast and simple’, the place has the feel of a spacious, modern sixth-form canteen with bright orange walls and plate-glass windows overlooking the square. Grab a tray, join the queue and you will be served in no time from a choice of half a dozen staples from chicken curry to lamb rogan josh, or try the tasty vegetarian roast pepper and aubergine curry. With rice included, servings are generous and wonderfully cheap, but it comes without frills. It is paper plates and plastic forks upstairs, though the £10 threecourse buffet downstairs on Fridays and weekends comes with real plates. + Great value - The cardboard-like naan

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Mother Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CafĂŠ 3â&#x20AC;&#x201C;5 Infirmary Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D4, 77) 0131 524 9801, motherindiascafeedinburgh.co.uk | ÂŁ15 (lunch) / ÂŁ15 (dinner)

The Indian â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;tapasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; concept is here presented with such assurance that it is puzzling not to see it replicated in curry houses across the city. The menu consists of around 50 dishes, each at around a fiver, all about the size of a generous starter. Four between two people is about right. The dishes are randomly listed â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a familiar staple such as chilli garlic chicken next to a creamy daal, or Karahi lamb next to spiced baked haddock. Maybe itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designed to throw off the scent those seeking a traditional curry blow-out. If so, it is a successful ploy: the atmosphere is crisp cafĂŠ bustle rather than velour indulgence. Parisian globe lights, arty black and white photos and bare stone walls all add to an air of sophistication. Try the daily specials â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ginger chilli lamb is fiery but beautifully judged. Food arrives quickly and all at once. Given the large number of staff it is a pity that empty dishes are not cleared and replenishments offered, which would allow genuine flexibility. + Unusual approach to curry-house dining - Service a bit hasty when busy

Namaste Kathmandu 17â&#x20AC;&#x201C;19 Forrest Road, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 52) 0131 220 2273, namastektm. co.uk | ÂŁ7.25 (thali lunch) / ÂŁ16 (dinner)

Pale wood floors, plate glass mirrors and faintly antiseptic lighting set Namaste Kathmandu apart from the cosy dĂŠcor of a traditional curry house. It is, in fact, more of a Nepalese restaurant that deftly keeps a foot in the door of the traditional Indian to woo late-night curry hunters. The menu is divided in two. The Indian section offers standard meat or veg dishes from a delicate korma to the more potent jalfrezi â&#x20AC;&#x201C; extra chillies can be added for heat fiends. The Nepalese section is more adventurous, with starters such as mo-mo (steamed dumplings like delicate crimped pasties) and veggie mains with black-eyed beans and bamboo shoots hinting at Chinese influence. A spice mix based on Szechuan pepper and garam masala packs a punch, mercifully without the added sugar that creeps into many restaurant curries. The red snapper with tomato, onion and lemon is chock full of carefully cooked pieces of fish. Compared to the current fad for monster naan breads, these are quite small, served neatly quartered in a wire basket. The service is swift and charming. + Excellent spicing - Efficient but not much buzz

The Original Mosque Kitchen and CafĂŠ Edinburgh Central Mosque, 50 Potterrow, Southside (Map 2A: D5, 62) 0131 662 9111 | ÂŁ7 (lunch) / ÂŁ7 (dinner)

Debates over its actual â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Originalityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; rage on, with the (unconnected) Mosque Kitchen over the road claiming copyright, but the Original Mosque Kitchen remains a popular spot, still resolutely lo-fi, ladling curries from school dinner drums on to paper plates. Seating is either in the low-ceilinged servery itself, or on some decking under a tarpaulin outside. That it remains a popular spot, whatever the weather, is down to two things. Firstly, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very cheap and the servings are plentiful. Secondly, and more importantly, despite the oldschool styling, the food is wholesome and satisfying in a way that puts many ostensibly finer Indian restaurants to shame. The chicken samosas are light and crisp and the lentil dhal is smooth and buttery, its richness offset with a deep and subtly warming spiciness. Your choice may be from a limited menu, but it comes served with plentiful pilau rice or a naan bread. [Not recently visited.]

Pataka 190 Causewayside, Southside (Map 3C: C4, 30) 0131 668 1167, patakarestaurant. co.uk | ÂŁ8 (set lunch) / ÂŁ16 (dinner)

At first glance this could be an Edinburgh tea shop, but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be fooled by the Rennie Mackintosh exterior, inherited from its previous incarnation as a Scottish restaurant in the early nineties. The decorative theme extends indoors, giving Pataka a smart if slightly quaint feel with ornate booth seating in the main restaurant separated from the adjoining â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;white roomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; where larger parties are catered for. Along with eight vegetable curries, there is a good spread of classic Bengali and north Indian dishes with the meat well-marinated and tender, and the sauces just the right consistency â&#x20AC;&#x201C; especially true of the mild, almondflavoured lamb passanda. For something more spicy try the chicken jalfrezie or jhal bhuna, and there is also a better than an average selection of locally sourced fish curries. Over the years Pataka has built up a loyal fan base among Causewayside locals, and occasionally attracts the writer Ian Rankin, who slipped the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name into two of his Rebus books. High praise indeed. + The cosy, neighbourhood feel - Menu sticks with the classics

staffed by volunteers, Punjabi Junction has a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;down homeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; simplicity that Leithers are happy to lay claim to. The interior has an endearing blue and orange railway theme and the menu is succinct and full of comforting favourites. The vegetable momo, a steamed dumpling served with an addictive sesame chutney, is like a spicy and satisfying hug. The chicken curry (served with a generous pile of pillowy chapattis) is great for those with a taste for the standards. The potato-stuffed aloo parantha is ideal for sharing, though you might not want to. You can take home pickles, sweets and chutneys, all made lovingly in-house, and even sign up for a cookery class. If you are looking for a little sunshine on a budget in the heart of Leith, Punjabi Junction is worth the journey. + Tasty, cheap and lovely - Home delivery not yet available

4 Rivage 126â&#x20AC;&#x201C;130 Easter Road, Leith (Map 5B: C4, 30) 0131 661 6888, rivagerestaurant. co.uk | Closed Tue | ÂŁ8.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ18 (dinner)

Meandering down Easter Road, you could easily walk past the humble exterior of Rivage. But once inside, your senses are rewarded with alluring aromas from the tandoor oven, which is visible from the main dining room. Since opening in 2007, Rivage has become a neighbourhood favourite and for good reason. The menu is packed with interesting dishes that carnivores and vegetarians alike will appreciate. The Goan fish curry, generous with tender chunks of monkfish in a moreish Kashmiri chilli sauce, shows off some serious spice prowess. And for a tasty and indulgent main, try the chicken

and cashew nuts in black spices. For a sweet end to the meal, a warm gulab jamun dumpling with ice-cream is just the ticket. The modest drinks selection is well chosen to accompany spicy food, or you can always take advantage of their free BYOB option. Decidedly more small-town cosy than uptown chic, Rivage is well worth a visit. + Great food at great prices - DĂŠcor is slightly disjointed

New Saffrani 11 South College Street, Old Town (Map 2: D4, 75) 0131 667 1597, newsaffrani. co.uk | ÂŁ13 (lunch) / ÂŁ13 (dinner)

Lurking in the deep shadow of Old College, New Saffrani is indeed new, having supplanted its predecessor in the autumn of 2013. A spartan and somewhat makeshift interior belies the commitment of a young team with a clear eye on the market and ambitions to match. Rather than compete with the local proliferation of cut-price student lunch menus, New Saffrani opens at 2pm, thus scooping up late lunchers and those hungry enough to eat their evening meal in the afternoon. A slight unevenness in the cooking speaks of inexperience, rather than lack of skill, as the spices are well judged and differentiated between dishes. The spiced lamb chop starter burra chap attracts aficionados from all over the city and the Goan fish curry is over-sauced but it is presentation, not cooking, that is at fault here. Lamb garlic handi is tender and nicely marinated, and the haggis pakoras are worth trying. Watch this space: with a lick of paint and improved lighting it will soon be better known. + Great range of flavours - Drab dĂŠcor

Kasturi INDIAN GOURMET RESTAURANT

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Punjabi Junction 122â&#x20AC;&#x201C;124 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A1, 2) 07865 895022, punjabijunction. org | Closed Sun | ÂŁ5 (set lunch) / ÂŁ11 (dinner)

Set up by the Sikh Sanjog charity and

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TABLE Talk

STUART MUIR ON FINDING SUPPLIERS If you ever get the chance to take a trip in a two-man creel boat, just make sure there aren’t going to be four of you in it first. With a couple of folk in them, they are perfectly poised, and it all looks serene from the shore. Any more, however, and it knocks the balance off kilter – and Neil Prentice, who supplies some of our lobsters and langoustines, assured me that was on a calm day too! It’s also backbreaking work laying out and hauling in his 40 or so creels by hand, especially when you consider that a very good day’s fishing for him means that each basket might have one crustacean in it. It’s a lot of effort. They also process our hand-dived scallops in a wee but ’n’ ben on the harbour side at Tarbert. Neil lives on the other side of the bay, and rows to work each morning. In the evenings, on the way home, he dumps all the shells back into the loch. It’s the ultimate in food-waste recycling. Cuddybridge Apple Juice, which is made by Graham and Julia Stoddart, is another of our suppliers which make good use of the waste product. They use the pomace – the squashed leftovers – to feed rare-breed pigs. Everything is hand-pressed and the only other ingredient is a pinch of ascorbic acid which acts as an antioxidant. I stumbled upon them by sheer luck a few years ago when Graham was doing a pressing demonstration in the Botanic Gardens, and I was there for a walk with my kids. The juice tastes fantastic and my kids thought so too; it’s as if you’re actually eating the apple. Graham and I just got chatting, and that was that. Q Stuart Muir is executive chef at Forth Floor Restaurant (see page 94) and Brasserie (see page 45). harveynichols.com/forth-flooredinburgh

78 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Mother India’s Café (page 77): tapas, Indian style, in a buzzy café atmosphere that’s great for big groups

Shezan 24 – 25 Union Place, New Town (Map 1B: D5, 37) 0131 557 5098, shezanedinburgh. co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Following a major refurb in 2011, the iconic bright red paintwork of this Leith Walk curry joint has been replaced with a sleek, monochrome exterior. Inside, the vibe is very much Bollywood bling, complete with a sparkly bar and glittery walls. The menu is still full of the old favourites: a generous starter of mixed kebab arrives with a trio of spicy, tangy sauces, and the chicken, lamb and seekh kebab have a wonderful smoky flavour, fresh from the tandoor. A main course of Punjabi garlic tikka masala has a deliciously sweet, strong but not overpowering flavour of roasted garlic through the sauce. Titled only as ‘Chef’s Special’, a curry with chicken, lamb and prawns has a spicy taste lifted by fresh, minty, citrus hues. Traditional Indian desserts such as kulfi and gulab jamun feature on the menu, alongside, perhaps more surprisingly, a host of flavours of luxury Swiss ice-cream. Though the restaurant’s recent facelift may be a little over the top for some, the quality of ingredients and cooking are the same standard they have been for the past four decades. + A great spot for people watching from the floor-ceiling windows - Menu could do with some more inventive dishes

Spice Lounge Kitchen 1 Craigmount View, Corstorphine (Map 4: A4, off) 0131 476 9999, spiceloungekitchen.co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Despite the size and layout of an anonymous chain pub/restaurant, Spice Lounge Kitchen in Corstorphine is stylishly designed with a modern and sophisticated interior, and makes good use of its vast proportions. Customers can enjoy drinks with small tapas-style dishes, or even Indian-inspired pizzas and burgers in the comfortable bar area, or venture into the elegant (and huge) dining room for something more substantial. Described as ‘the king of kebabs’ a starter of galouti kebab

features little patties of minced lamb sat on individual puris and topped with half a red grape. A main course of chicken shakuti Goa, a dish from Southern India, comes in a delicately spiced sauce, with the heat of red chillies cooled by creamy coconut milk. Panjabi tikka masala has a lovely rich sauce but is sadly rather mild, despite the maximum three-chilli rating on the menu. Garlic naan is light and crispy, and for those who can’t decide, a variety bread basket is available with your choice of Indian breads. + Well presented and tasty food - Service can be hit and miss

The Spice Pavilion 3a1 Dundas Street, New Town (Map 1A: D3, 38) 0131 467 5506, thespicepavilion. co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Tucked into an unassuming New Town basement, one could be forgiven for thinking Spice Pavillion was just your typical neighbourhood Indian. But a look inside the restaurant will make you think again. Its elegant yet warm, welcoming surroundings make guests feel instantly at home, and its popularity, despite being a little off the beaten track, is surely a good sign. An extensive menu features many well-known Indian dishes, as well as slightly more unusual fare, cooked with refinement and finesse by chef and co-owner Parwaiz Khan. King prawn puri is zingy, spicy prawns on a bed of puffy unleavened deep-fried bread, and their chicken kolhapuri is a beautifully spiced dish with the spicy heat perfectly offset by ginger and lemon juice. Breads are remarkably light, as are side dishes like sag paneer, which has a gorgeous, fresh and almost zesty flavour. + Exceptionally warm hospitality - Desserts are bought in

4 Suruchi 14a Nicolson Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D4, 70) 0131 556 6583, suruchirestaurant.co.uk | £5.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

One of the best-kept secrets of the Old Town, nestled above a sandwich franchise and a music shop on Nicolson Street, Suruchi provides an inconspicuous oasis of calm in the bustling district of

Newington. As Scotland’s first Thali restaurant, this hidden gem has been dishing up reasonably priced platters as well as more substantial curries since 1992 to students and theatre-goers alike. Climbing the unassuming staircase, customers are led up to a tastefully decorated, if a little old-fashioned dining room, where waiting staff are more than happy to cater to their every need. The restaurant’s main attraction is the Thali: individual bowls of curries, served with rice and two golden puris to soak up the unctuous sauces, let diners sample a range of flavours, and are available as both vegetarian and non-vegetarian. Making great use of Scottish produce, a main dish of venison maharaja has deep and earthy flavours, with chilli and fenugreek running through the sauce. + A phenomenal lunch deal - Scruffy exterior doesn’t match the inside

4 Tanjore 6–8 Clerk Street, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 7) 0131 478 6518, tanjore.co.uk | £8 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Although a relative newcomer, Tanjore is becoming an increasingly popular spot for diners in the know. And quite rightly so. Tanjore exquisitely exhibits the best of south Indian cuisine, a lot of which is not to be found on menus in other Indian restaurants in Edinburgh. The famous dosas – long, rolled, crispy yet substantial pancakes made from rice flour and black lentils – can be ordered either as a side or as a main meal, stuffed with an array of meat and vegetable fillings. Other delicious mains include Kerala fish curry – flaky pieces of fish in a creamy coconut sauce, with elaborately concocted layers of spice and flavour – and lamb Karaikudi packs a punch with its bountiful blend of deep south Indian spices. If you have room for dessert, the carrot halwa is definitely worth a try; light and refreshing and bustling with cardamom and cashew, this is a far cry from the heavy puddings often associated with Indian food. + Fantastic food at great-value prices - The casual surroundings don’t quite do the dishes justice

indian cuisine

Illustrious, award winning and stellar are three words to describe The Shezan restaurant located in Edinburgh’s bustling city centre With a solid reputation built up over the past 30 years, the family-run Shezan Restaurant is well renowned as the capital’s best loved Indian eatery and has even bagged a string of awards for it’s delectable dishes

Sunday to Friday noon - midnight, Saturday noon - 00.30 Pre-theatre meal: 4 till 7 every day 3 course meal only £14.95 call or book in advance

#ShezanEdinburgh

Shezan Edinburgh

enquiries@shezanedinburgh.com • www.shezanedinburgh.com 24/25 Union St, Edinburgh EH1 3NQ 0131 557 5098 • 0131 557 5099

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 79

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10 to 10 In Delhi 67 Nicolson Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D5, 63) 07536 757770 | £5.95 (set lunch) / £7 (dinner)

Like stepping into someone’s front room, complete with lots of brightly coloured cushions to sink into, 10 to 10 in Delhi is homely, comfortable and somehow manages to fit in more customers than it looks like there is space for. Their quiet hubbub of conversation balances with contemporary Indian vocal numbers on the hi-fi to set the scene for the speedy arrival of deftly prepared dishes with sharply defined flavours. Unpretentious and keenly priced, 10 to 10’s small kitchen, nestling behind a glass counter crammed with cans, cartons and bottles of soft drinks, produces honest chicken, seafood and vegetarian dishes of six Dilse (‘from the heart’) specials as well as the more adventurous curry wraps featuring roti – unleavened Indian flat bread. Fresh juices made from exotic fruits like guavas and lychees are refreshing, with mango stepping up to provide the primary flavour for yoghurt-based lassi. A good selection of teas are traditionally brewed, and there are encouraging deals for students. + Super handy for Edinburgh Uni students and staff - It’s a bit cramped

4 Tuk Tuk 1 Leven Street (Map 3A: B1, 13) 0131 228 3322, tuktukonline.com | £12.50 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Since opening in late 2012, Tuk Tuk has brought a dash of modern India to this corner of Tollcross. On offer is a westernised take on the Indian street food delivered in small bowls, saucepans and tin plates by Tuk Tuk wallahs dressed in black aprons and dazzling orange T-shirts. The well-lit interior spread over three rooms resembles a trendy work canteen with a touch of shanty-town chic – lots of exposed metal, scaffolding and distressed wood. From a fun menu featuring over thirty dishes including chicken lollipops and Mumbai burgers, you are urged to pick three or four per person. Alternatively, to avoid dithering over the menu, you can choose the £16.95 ‘all you can eat buffet’. On the whole the tapas-sized portions are generous, though they could be more bountiful with the rice. Meat, cooked on the bone, is succulent and tender, especially in the railway station lamb curry. Vegetarians are well served with pakoras, dhal and channa puri (deep-fried chickpeas). There are Indian soft drinks and smoothie-style lassis to drink, otherwise come armed with some tasty craft beer or wine from nearby Drinkmonger to enjoy Tuk Tuk’s corkage-free BYOB policy. + A relaxed, easy-going take on modern Indian street food - A slight lack of fire and spice

Vinyasa 34 St. Marys Street (Map 2B: B3, 19) 0131 556 6776, vinyasaedinburgh.co.uk | £6.50 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Taking its identity neither from Indian place nor produce, Vinyasa is less predictably named after a style of

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps and links, go to

food.list.co.uk 80 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

yoga. It’s quite appropriate really, as the experience of eating in this rather upmarket, still newish addition to Edinburgh’s curry scene is one that results in a satisfyingly agreeable state of mind. With a friendly, family feel to proceedings, the star is Nana (aka Grandad), who appears in full chef regalia from the kitchen to chat to diners, checking that they are happy. King prawn with puri has a surprising kick, if marginally too sweet and oily, but the lassi sauce of mango, yoghurt and mint is a lovely partner for assorted fish kebabs as a starter. Main dishes are of generous proportions, appearing on plates cheerfully circled with decorations of red and green drizzled zig-zags. In a wide range of specials based on chicken, lamb and prawns, the heat could be turned up for what they describe as very, very hot, but otherwise dishes such as Shajahani chicken with spinach, or spicy mixed vegetables, are reliable and fresh tasting. + Elegant décor combined with a warm welcome - Choice of only two wines by the glass

Voujon 107 Newington Road, Southside (Map 3C: D3, 26) 0131 667 5046, voujonedinburgh.co.uk | £8.50 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Behind an anonymous plate glass façade, the elegant interior of Voujon comes as a bit of a surprise. Crisp linen tablecloths, fanned napkins and an array of wine glasses on each table give the impression that a French restaurant from the city centre has been transplanted to the southern end of trendy Newington. The slightly upmarket image is difficult to pull off in an area full of cheap and cheerful eateries, but Voujon tries hard, with unusually shaped crockery and a menu that stops short of being classic post-pub Indian. The large number of fish dishes, including a strangely addictive starter called sardine bhorta, testify that chef Enamal Hock is keen to try out his native Bangladeshi cuisine, albeit with Scottish fish (Bangladeshi fish are very bony and difficult to eat). More conventional curry fare, such as ginger murgh or the popular Keralan chicken, is firmly spiced, but with less emphasis on chilli than you might expect, and many dishes feature the unique citrus flavour of the shatkora fruit. + Clean and elegant - Lacks bustle

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award for upholding the traditions and quality of Italian restaurants. Proud owner Graziano Spano and his tiny team bring the basics-done-well way of his native Bari to appreciative locals and grateful expats. Dinner starts with Puglia favourite purea di fave, a peasant-to-riches soup of almond-beige beans. From country to coast, proceed to paccheri al Branzino – homemade pasta tubes filled with soft, subtle sea bass purée – and stay seaside for secondi such as rana pescatrice Mediterranea, monkfish served as-thename-suggests with pine nuts, basil and cherry tomatoes. Desserts like hazelnut brûlée display the same care, affection and pride that’s bestowed on everything else here. + Quality regional Italian cookery - Unglamorous location may not please some

Amarone Pizza, pasta and panacotta; gelati, Chianti and waiters called Luigi: Edinburgh’s many Italian restaurants satisfy the neverceasing demand for Italo-British classics and the box-ticking Italian eating experience. But if you’re yearning for ‘proper’ Italian cooking, seek and you shall find proud chefs showcasing favourites from home, as if to say: this is how it should be done; this is what they eat in Rome, in Bari, in Palermo. And it’s bella! Buon appetito! Reviewers: Louise Donoghue, Sian Hickson, James Teideman

Al Dente 139 Easter Road, Leith (Map 5B: C4, 32) 0131 652 1932, al-dente-restaurant.co.uk | Closed Sun | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

OK, it’s on Easter Road. There’s no pizza. Get over it. Al Dente eschews both uptown glitz and cliché: here it’s all about the food. Time-rich retirees lunch on mussels in a living room-sized trattoria plastered with pictures of Puglia while workies walk past the Ospitalia Italiana gold

13 St Andrew Square, New Town (Map 1B: A6, 51) 0131 523 1171, amaronerestaurant.co.uk | £13.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

The façade of Amarone couldn’t be much grander, with large arch-shaped windows overlooking St Andrew Square attracting a clientele from the surrounding businesses, plus tourists and some locals. With its chic interior, vast amounts of space, incredibly high ceilings and impressive lighting features, their ethos is to reflect the importance of food and cooking in Italian culture. This restaurant and pizzeria serves the expected array of pasta, pizza, steaks from the grill, salads, fish and meat dishes. Starters include mixed antipasti, cured meats, grilled and marinated vegetables, and buffalo mozzarella in various guises. Verdi pizza has a tasty light dough with fresh spinach, rocket, ricotta cheese, parmesan, garlic and chilli oil. Complete your visit with their semifreddo, a moreish dessert of iced chocolate and praline cream, or go for their most popular choice: a mascarpone, honey and ginger cheesecake on a crushed gingernut biscuit base. With a stunning interior and a front of house who run a tight ship, the food being served at Amarone is certainly a pleasant surprise. + Good choice for large groups - Some dishes drowning in sauce

Zest 15 North St Andrew Street, New Town (Map 1B: B5, 56) 0131 556 5028, zestrestaurant.co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

No longer obscured by the once seemingly never-ending tram works, Zest, among other local businesses, has reappeared into sight at the top of Dublin Street. With its high-backed chairs and white linen tablecloths, this restaurant offers a peaceful and elegant ambience which seems a far cry from its busy city-centre surroundings. A menu incorporating traditional Indian favourites as well as more unusually named dishes such as P279 special, named after the owner’s own taxi license plate, makes for an interesting dining experience. A starter of king prawn puri arrives with four very cute individual scalloped-edged puris adorning each corner of the plate, while a main of Himalayan crushed chilli chicken has an intriguing blend of flavours and spices, giving the dish just the right amount of kick. Naans are crisp and not overly oily, and pilau rice is fragrant and fluffy. + Good food in elegant surroundings - Lack of proper coffee to end a good meal

La Favorita: the log-fired pizzas are local legends

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4 Café Domenico

Croma

30 Sandport Street, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 11) 0131 467 7266, cafedomenico.co.uk | £10 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Odeon, 118 Lothian Road, West End (Map 4: C2, 44) 0131 228 2916, cromapizza. co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Café Domenico’s mix and mis-match dining room of mirrors, red and white checks and home shop bits is a little bit of laid-back sanctuary by the Shore. While its side trade is sandwiches for Leith office lunchers, behind the counter its menu is short, shaped by what’s in, what’s fresh, whatever’s off the boat. If you like this, but not that – or maybe you’d like it with this instead of that – they can do it. As the house plonk goes down, dive in to scallop and black pudding on pea purée-smeared crostini, or delve into mussels to order: garlic, chilli, black pepper, wine, tomatoes . . . just as you fancy. Like the sound of linguine with chorizo and king prawns, but your heart says seafood stew? Have it all with a pile of pasta and steaming shellfish dotted with morsel clams. For afters, go homely with secret-recipe banana bread or, for a showman’s finale, alcohol-drowned ice-cream affogato. Linger a little longer over a digestivo – the world can wait for your return. + Tailor-made menu strong on catch-ofthe-day seafood - Familiarity of service is not for fans of the formal

If you thought the Odeon cinema had disappeared from Lothian Road, fear not. It is still there; it has just been nudged out of plain sight by a pizzeria that is partnering with a couple of similar cinema sites across the country. This recent venture is run by three former members of the Pizza Express team, and it shows in the décor, the menus and the clientele. Their mixed antipasti is good, providing the cured meats and accompaniments you’d expect, and is served with impressive freshly baked rosemary bread, although slightly scrimping on the buffalo mozzarella. The pizza menu is divided into three and is pretty self-explanatory with classics, Croma originals and gourmet pizzas. Gourmet pizzas like chicken piri piri seem overloaded with ingredients – spicy chicken breast, red onions, green peppers, jalapeños, field mushrooms, garlic, mozzarella and tomato – but still prove a popular choice. Desserts steer off the Italian track with key lime pie and banofee mess. It is certainly serving a better quality of food than the glass and neon façade suggests, but their claim to originality seems unfounded. + Offers a quick bite before a film - Décor fails to entice

4 Centotre 103 George Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 60) 0131 225 1550, centotre.com | £13.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Centrotre is something of an Edinburgh institution and is due to celebrate its tenth birthday this year. A family-run restaurant occupying the grand premises of a former bank in a prime city location, their ethos is about fresh and authentic Italian produce, with a weekly delivery driven from the Milan market. They have their own kitchen garden and source fish, meat, and herbs locally, alongside their passion for perfectly cooked Scottish sustainable fish. The quality of the ingredients is certainly reflected in the menu and you may find yourself spoilt for choice. Classic pasta such as contadino is a delicious combination of orecchiette with fresh piccante sausage, cremini mushrooms, dried porcini, rocket, fresh cream and parmigiano reggiano. They are keen to cater for dietary requirements with their gluten-free and vegetarian menu and these dishes are just as impressive as their à la carte menu. Each month the chef showcases specials concentrated on different areas of Italy. All that and delectable homemade ice-cream to boot. Let’s hope they’re here for at least the next ten years. + An array of high quality, authentic Italian dishes - Must book ahead to be guaranteed a cosy booth

HITLISTED SINCE 2012

4 Cucina Hotel Missoni, 1 George IV Bridge, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 21) 0131 240 1666, hotelmissoni.com | £15.95 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

Situated within the glass and glamour of George IV Bridge’s Hotel Missoni, style is of the essence in Cucina’s artfully lit dining space, with the signature zigzags sported by the finely tailored staff set against a muted riot of clashing print and colour. The clientele are a mixture of older well-heeled fine-diners and business travellers, catered to by a seasonal menu that manages the neat trick of balancing unusual and bright flavours and Italian staples without ostentation. Overtures feature a selection of handmade breads – a crunchy rosemary and sea salt focaccia with bold virgin olive oil is like a mouthful of Tuscan sun. Mains include a creamy sea-fresh lemon sole and a flavoursome steak with roasted red onions and mashed potatoes. The adept sommelier leads patrons through an attractive if rather grandiose wine list, and the dessert selection alone would justify a visit, with a superlative almond-foam exposition on the theme of tiramisu and chocolate ice-cream that comes close to defying description – serendipitously for the citizens of Edinburgh, plans for an outdoor dessert concern are afoot. Behind the glitz, this is a class act with culinary clout.

+ Celestial ice-cream is a must have - Overly pungent parsley sauce

Divino Enoteca 5 Merchant Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 43) 0131 225 1770, divinoedinburgh.com | Closed Sun | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Having begun life as a wine bar with tapas, Divino Enoteca has evolved into a classy restaurant and ‘wine library’. Shelves and racks of wine line the exposed stonework of its chic basement setting in the shadows under George IV Bridge. As you’d expect, the wine list is extensive: Italian vintages of every age and region plus a small international selection, with no fewer than 42 available by the glass. You can also serve yourself from Scotland’s only Enomatic wine dispenser (buy a prepaid card) or take a ‘wine flight’ of 4–6 small glasses with tasting notes. If you can tear yourself away from the oenological delights, the seasonally changing menu offers traditional Italian cuisine. The ubiquitous pizza is shunned in favour of a well-chosen range of pasta, meat and fish dishes. Ingredients and presentation are more upmarket than its sister restaurant Vittoria upstairs: crispy gnocchi with roast chicken and broad beans, or scallops and fennel-accented Italian sausage on squid ink polenta are successful combinations, and the simpler pasta dishes don’t disappoint. However, there’s no mistaking the wine is the real star here. + Unmissable for a wine buff - Desserts are the usual suspects

4 HITLIST

ITALIAN 4 Café Domenico A versatile neighbourhood Italian restaurant that has a strong focus on seafood.

4 Centotre Ten years on, the Continis remain committed to serving the freshest and most authentic Italian food.

4 Cucina Superior Italian cooking in slick surroundings.

4 Nonna’s Kitchen This friendly

Ecco Vino

neighbourhood restaurant presents Italian food cooked with care.

19 Cockburn Street, Old Town See Bars & Pubs

4 Origano A note-worthy pizzeria

La Favorita 325–331 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A3, 10) 0131 554 2430, vittoriagroup.co.uk | £22 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

There’s nothing phoney about La Favorita. From the homemade dough that forms the foundations of its pizzas to the cheerful gesticulations of its staff, there’s an air of Italian authenticity about the place – even the most stalwart Anglophones will find themselves subconsciously slipping the occasional ‘prego’ into conversation by the end of the meal. Pizzas, unsurprisingly, are the main attraction for most diners and these are clearly prepared with dedication – the dough for the bases being prepared four days in advance, before being topped with all manner of ingredients, many of which are sourced direct from Italy, and then finished off in a revolving logfired oven, which is rumoured to be kept burning around the clock, in case of a local quattro stagioni emergency. The final product certainly doesn’t disappoint, although those curious to venture off piste might consider sharing a pizza and saving part of their appetite for some antipasti,

that does the simple things well.

which are good enough to suggest that non-dough-based secondi piatti are also well worth sampling. + Escapism should taste this good - Best not to plan any ballet practice after a 14” valtellina

Gaia Delicatessen 32 Crighton Place, Leith Walk, Leith See Cafes: Wee Places

Giuliano’s 18–19 Union Place, New Town (Map 1B: D5, 35) 0131 556 6590, giulianos.co.uk | £22.50 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Bang opposite the Playhouse, big, booming Guiliano’s captures the theatre crowds pre- and post-show, springing into life like a waterhole in the rains. That’s when it’s at its best: a packed house, a hen do or two, with tartan-waistcoated waiters working the room. A twist of black pepper, some parmesan perhaps,

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& & The List Eating & Drinking Guide 81

ITALIAN

list.co.uk

EDINBURGH

and the lights dim as a be-candled cake enters to strains of ‘happy birthday’. The sprawling menu should please the crowds, with standards from garlic bread and buffalo mozzarella through big-ticket pastas, 20-odd pizzas and risottos to seafood and meaty main courses. Best to avoid the disappointing pizzas; you’d be better going for in-season specials such as slow-braised venison or the more adventurous agnello chimichurry – lamb chops with spiced barbecue dressing. If you like food on the piccante side, several dishes feature the secret recipe house chilli. Supersize sundaes brought to neighbouring tables cause clamour from the kids: they want one too. But they can’t have the giant coppa Guiliano’s, a spectacular and startlingly alcoholic concoction that will set up your night on the town – who needs cocktails? + Great atmosphere on weekend nights - Avoid pre-theatre rush hour if you’re not seeing a show

£7.50 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

This new venture occupies the site of a former popular Italian restaurant on Dalry Road. The motto is ‘good friends, good times, good food’ and the aim is to serve simple, unpretentious Italian fare. With a brick kitchen and bar in the middle of the restaurant, and a seating area on each side, this simple theme is reflected through the décor of whitewashed walls and wooden floors. It’s a busy, bustling place with lots of passing trade and lots of atmosphere – but unfortunately this rush sometimes results in a lack of attention to detail and some advertised ingredients appear to be missing from dishes. King prawns panfried with a sambuca and saffron sauce are bland, with the saffron distinctly lacking. In a similar vein, pork ribs oven cooked in garlic, white wine, onions and tomato sauce lack seasoning. Sea bream with white wine, olive oil, garlic, courgette and walnut has a bitter sauce muffling the taste of good fish. The clientele appear to be enjoying themselves, however, entertained by a very accommodating team of staff. + A great atmosphere - Cooking is less impressive

Giuliano’s on the Shore 1 Commercial Street, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 13) 0131 554 5272, giulianos.co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Gusto 135 George Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 48) 0131 225 2555, gustorestaurants. uk.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Gusto’s slick operation from the Living Ventures Company is a very popular choice with the George Street crowd. The sleek black and white interior is adorned with chandeliers and snaps of typical Italian scenes, and the atmosphere is lively – family friendly during the day and more of a cocktail supping crowd dropping by in the evenings. Settled into booths or spread across long tables, diners tuck into deli boards, pasta and risotto, salads, seafood and meat dishes. Creamed celeriac and chestnut soup with truffle oil and Pecorino cheese impresses, as do hand-rolled meatballs in a spicy tomato sauce. The pizza dough is tasty, but there are not too many Italian classics here – rather a leaning towards more American influences, with toppings such as BBQ chicken or pepperoni and chillies, with Peking duck on a hoi sin base thrown in for good measure. Plump for the homemade desserts such as the decadent Nutella and mascarpone calzone or the tangy baked Venetian rice pudding served with pistachio ice-cream. + Stylish hangout that caters for families - Menu choice can be hit and miss 82 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Nardini’s 1 Merchiston Place, Southside See Cafés

PHOTO © CAITLIN COOKE

Leith’s Shore may have seen much alteration over the past decades, but perched on the corner of Commercial Street this unassuming eatery has stood the test of time, blithely continuing to serve classic fare to both locals and a staunch cohort of older-generation Italian immigrants seeking a taste of home in each other’s company. The atmosphere is welcoming and unfussy, and it’s clear that the place enjoys a loyal following: singer/accordionist Robert Enzo has being charming the patrons every Monday night for nigh-on twenty years to the chink of glasses and gentle applause. The food is fine, though nothing revolutionary. A tasty and spicy selection of cold meats and some good homemade breads are followed by agnolotti ai porcini with a thick, full-flavoured sauce and unabashedly cheese-laden pizze. Desserts are this Giuliano’s Achilles heel: a two-dimensional panacotta comes in a store-bought sauce, and the tiramisu, topped with a glacé cherry, is soggy and bland. Overall, though, it’s not so much about the food – this is a neat little neighbourhood joint with a sweetness all of its own. + Bonhomie and real Italians - Desert before the desserts

4 Nonna’s Kitchen 45 Morningside Road, Southside (Map 3B: A2, 4) 0131 466 6767, nonnas-kitchen. co.uk | Closed Mon | £14.50 (lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Café Domenico (page 81): a homely, laid-back sanctuary by The Shore

Italian Kitchen 18–24 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 11) 0131 315 2860, italiankitchen.net | £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Escape to southern Italy – or the next best thing, a cosy basement on Stockbridge’s main street. Italian Kitchen offers seasonal dishes and Italian staples based on the cuisine of the Lazio region. The setting is intimate and relaxed and the staff display both a passion for the menu and an evident camaraderie. A loyal band of locals frequent, favouring homemade ravioli of the day and delicious linguine con gamberoni aglio e olio (king prawn pasta with chilli, parsley, white wine and rocket). The pizza is just as impressive, with a thin crispy base and appetizing combinations like mozzarella, slowroasted cherry tomatoes, oregano and fiery Calabrian salami. Ingredients are sourced from the local Stockbridge butcher and fishmonger, to create seasonal specials such as escalope de veal with lemon, caper and anchovy, served with chilli roast potatoes. The emphasis is on authenticity, from the menu to the coffee, and the reasonably priced wines are imported straight from Italy. + Good-natured staff and good food - Cosy surroundings may mean you miss out on a table

Jamie’s Italian Assembly Rooms, 54 George Street, City Centre (Map 1A: D5, 67) 0131 202 5452, jamieoliver.com/italian | £15 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

The unstoppable proliferation of Oliver’s army resulted in the establishment in 2012 of this branch within the Georgian grandeur of the revamped Assembly Rooms. Wine-red walls, soft lighting and a central hub bedecked with cured hams and strings of dried produce create a soothing atmosphere marred only by mysterious draughts that leave guests scrambling for knitwear. The fare feels undistinguished, and the chummy faux-vintage menus somewhat safe, although elevated by interesting touches such as buttery olives on ice with tapenade and heart-warmingly spicy arancini. The wine (lamentably

served warm) is no great shakes, and pasta proves a surprising weak point, with an undercooked and underseasoned carbonara very light on pancetta, and panzerotti with squash and rosemary a limp option only partly enlivened by the addition of crumbled amaretti. Sharing planks – a selling point – offer diners the chance to sample a range of tasty cured meats or chargrilled marinated vegetables with pecorino cheese; sides include fresh greens and ‘funky’ chips seasoned with parsley and garlic. Children are well catered for with a fairly priced range of appealing options; adults however may feel the individuality factor lacking. + Competent service and sharing planks - Warm wine and cold draughts

La Locanda 61 Cockburn Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 8) 0131 622 7447 | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Surrounded by a sea of anonymous tourist havens in the Old Town, it’s comforting to walk in and be welcomed by name in La Locanda – which will probably happen by your second visit. Owner Marina Crolla and her son Dominic run the show at this little corner of Italy on Cockburn Street, where a mix of savvy tourists and local workers congregate for a hearty lunch of pasta with meatballs or a generous slice of homemade fritatta. Quality ingredients are to the fore here, and there are salads and panini aplenty – try one stuffed with a chicken escalope and lemony mayonnaise, a local legend. Later in the afternoon it might be time for a coffee and cake, or a glass of prosecco and slice of bruschetta as an after-work treat. Open for breakfast every day and also dinner Thu–Sat, La Locanda makes a welcoming pit stop from work or sightseeing – and if you let yourself relax enough, you can even imagine you’ve been transported to Milan. + Feeling like part of the family after two visits - Hard to get a seat at lunchtime

Mia 96 Dalry Road, West End (Map 4: A4, 70) 0131 629 1750, mia-restaurant.co.uk |

In a genre in which the term ‘authentic’ can be too liberally doled out, the familyrun (and family-friendly) Nonna’s is the real deal. The décor of the small but bustling space nestled at the crook of Morningside Road is muted and unobtrusive, serving as the stage for some fine traditional Sicilian cooking. The extensive specials list, recited from memory by one of the impeccably charming staff, can feature delicately flavoured monkfish and a pumpkin ravioli with pine nuts capable of inducing loud and rapturous exclamations of delight. There’s a slight unevenness in the midsection – although perfectly cooked, the entrecote is somewhat flaccid and lacking in taste, but this is a rare hiccup in an otherwise impressive performance. The fare on offer is fresh, well-seasoned and accompanied by a balanced and thoughtful wine list; desserts include a sublime amaretto ice-cream and a decadent creamy cheesecake with a pleasingly salty edge. The homemade pasta could rival anything produced in the finest restaurants in the city – well worth a visit, but you’ll have to book. + A well-run establishment offering delicious classic cooking - Flavourless entrecote

4 Origano 277 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A3, 6) 0131 554 6539, origano-leith.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Origano owners Simon and Dominik were once colleagues at a popular pizza chain, and were convinced they could do it better themselves. And they do. Now with their reputation earned, Dominik disappoints a procession of on-spec customers with an apologetic sigh and a double look at the reservations book. This unassuming pizzeria on Leith Walk is low-key, low-lit and easy on the Italiana. A big blackboard details the meat, veg or mixed antipasti: prosciutto, bresaola, bruschetta, rocket and grana padano. Gorge on a large-for-two sharing platter and that 16-incher will then be a challenge. Similarly sizable are the salads, showing an all-too-rare generosity and pride in the product. There are stock pastas too but it’s really all about the pizzas, in three appetite-accommodating

ITALIAN

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sizes. From the veg-piled house pizza to the fulsome spinachio with gorgonzola and egg, you can’t go wrong. All bread is made on-site, as is the tiramisu, which is thankfully the right side of sweet and creamy when deep down you know you’ve had enough. Next time just a salad, perhaps. Because there will be a next time. + Big homemade pizzas with fresh ingredients - Small tables a bit of a squeeze

Papavero 18 Howe Street, New Town (Map 1A: C3, 29) 0131 225 8204, papavero-restaurant. co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Papavero is a relative newcomer to the Edinburgh restaurant scene, occupying the former premises of A Room in the Town on Howe Street. One of the chefs of that previous establishment has taken the helm of this venture, which offers a range of Italian and Scottish dishes. The interior design is muted, with black leather chairs and little in the way of wall decoration. There’s a lot on the menu to choose from: steaks are one of the favourites here, along with black pudding, haggis and rack of lamb. Scattered among these dishes are the Italian staples you’d expect – pizzas, pastas, risottos and Italian breads. Penne di carne – pasta with spicy sausage, pancetta and meat ragû – is satisfying comfort food, but lacks the authenticity of true Italian cooking. Busy at weekends, Papavero seems to be pleasing both the local clientele and passing trade. They also offer a range of discounts, with half-price pizza and pasta on specific days early in the week. + A warm welcome from the staff - Sedate surroundings lack atmosphere

QuattroZero 40 Queensferry Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 16) 0131 220 5622, quattrozero.co.uk | £5.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

In an area of town peculiarly rich in pizzapasta joints, QuattroZero needs a USP, and it’s price. Simple, diner-style décor is colourful, brightly lit and family friendly, and at £5.95 for a starter and main course over lunchtime – with great big portions – you certainly won’t feel short changed. The speciality is wood-fired pizza, which comes in sizes up to one metre long and with all the classic toppings. No claims are made over sourcing or seasonality – this is hunger-sating stuff, covering all the most popular bases: al’Amalfitana spaghetti is loaded with seafood, including giant, nicely cooked calamari rings and mussels that taste fresher than the king prawns. Starters are strong on antipasti and sharing boards, and desserts major on size and sugar with knickerbocker glories and a sweet pizza among them. The takeaway, accessed through a separate door but joined to the main restaurant, and noteworthy late food service times complete the informal vibe. + Gluten-free pizza available - The customary post-pizza salt thirst

Rocca@Holyrood Macdonald Holyrood Hotel, 81 Holyrood Road, Old Town (Map 2B: D3, 29) 0131 550 4520, roccaedinburgh.co.uk | £10.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Susan and Adrian Pieraccini brought the successful Rocca brand (‘Scottish food with an Italian twist’) from St Andrews to Holyrood in 2013. Still establishing its own identity, Edinburgh’s Rocca has the inescapable feel of a hotel restaurant thanks to the ‘Royal Mile’ artwork, the cream-and-aubergine décor, the uniformed service, the toilets through reception and the hotel-resident clientele. But these are not faults. It’s a smooth operation, allowing the food to have attention. To start, succulent scallops and bite-sized bits of black pudding, with a pea purée

slick, is ambitiously priced, but a red, white and yellow trio of beetroot with good goat’s cheese and basil dressing is indicative of the imagination and effort applied throughout. Standards are high and presentation immaculate. Assured brasserie-style mains, with that Italian touch, include belly pork served with heritage carrots and colourful cavalo nero, and baked cod with mussels and potato gnocchi. Desserts – tiramisu with glistening cocoa sorbet; sugar-crusted bread and butter pudding with syrupy apricots – follow the same doctrine, and are executed with aplomb. + Beetroot trio starter - The price of scallops these days

Strada 15 Castle Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 56) 0131 225 2213, strada.co.uk | £19 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

(Map 5B: A4, 16) 0131 556 6171, vittoriarestaurant.com | £10 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Vittoria is an Edinburgh institution, still going strong after 44 years. Visiting either of the Crolla empire’s two august establishments is a bit like touring a theme-park version of Rome – a little plastic, undeniably naff, but ultimately rather enjoyable if you embrace the fact of the improbably accented staff and try to find a quiet spot all to yourself. The menu, like the restaurants, is loud, large and labyrinthine, with 22 pasta options jostling for space with a cavalcade of grills, salads and specials. The fresh and distinctive pizzas score a surprising hit: a Valtellina with rocket, bresaola and thick balsamic glaze and an ‘Nduja with spiced sausage and dolcelatte are interesting patchworks

of strong flavours well worth sampling. There’s a popular half-and-half pizza and pasta option, as well as the rather brilliant concept of the mari e monti – half calzone and half pizza, which is described as ‘seafood on the coast’. Ingredients are doled out with a refreshingly liberal approach, and those with allergies should feel well catered for with a substantial range of gluten-free iterations available. When it comes to puddings, best stick to ice-cream. Sundaes are a genuine crowdpleaser and come in suitably Vesuvian proportions; those on the hop can take advantage of the range of gelati on offer from a pavement kiosk outside the branch on George IV Bridge. + Family-friendly and fun - Meat dishes are not a patch on the pizzas

Straddling the demographic between corporate diners and daytime shoppers weary of the schlep down George Street, this mid-market restaurant enjoys a splendid aspect at right angles to the castle, which diners in the brief weeks of summer can enjoy from Strada’s outdoor tables. Inside feels somewhat less distinctive, decorated with enlarged black and white images of typical Italian scenes and rather on the dim side of low-lit. The menu offers the expected classics with some variations, among which triangles of pesto pomodoro bread make for a standout starter with sweet and robust tomato and clean basil flavours. Less successful are a risotto frutti di mare, which suffers from somewhat careless preparation, and an overly gelatinous panacotta. The affogato fares better, with or without the optional shot of amaretto. Service is brisk, the house white wine pleasantly acidic, but the overall experience of Scotland’s only branch of Strada is the feeling that, in this town, you can do much better. + Delicious pesto pomodoro bread - Bland atmosphere

Valvona & Crolla Caffè Bar 19 Elm Row, Leith Walk, New Town See Cafés

Valvona & Crolla Vincaffè 11 Multrees Walk, New Town (Map 1B: B5, 55) 0131 557 0088, vincaffe.co.uk | £29 (lunch) / £29 (dinner)

In 2004 the venerated octogenarian Valvona & Crolla opened its uptown offshoot VinCaffe. A decade on, its downstairs café serving lattes and lunches still draws shoppers, suits and ladies in cashmere. On summer days its terrace is among the city’s most coveted spaces for seeing, being seen and sipping prosecco in shades. The restaurant upstairs is large, leather seated, woodfloored and mirrored, with a desirable private dining room for just eight. V&C’s dedication to keeping up their culinary heritage is evident throughout, from the 40-strong list of wines by the glass to the sourcing and obvious quality of the ingredients. Antipasti include capesante – good-sized scallops served with crispy pancetta and butternut squash cream – while sformatino is a not-quite-soufflé of broccoli and smoked scamorza cheese. Be warned that mains such as classic rana pescatrice (monkfish) or lamb chops with wild mint lack sides so be sure to add (unless you just want a plate of chops). Round off with a reliable, rich torta di cioccolato or for the not-so-sweetly inclined, polenta cake with pistachios. + Fascinating wine list - Lack of sides mean small main courses

Vittoria • 19 George IV Bridge, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 42) 0131 225 1740 • 113 Brunswick Street, Leith Walk

Inspired by classic Italian cuisine. The freshest, seasonal ingredients. Hearty flavours. The best of the best simply and authentically prepared. 1 George IV Bridge Edinburgh EH1 1AD +44(0) 131 220 6666 cucina.edinburgh@hotelmissoni.com www.hotelmissoni.com

11 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH, EH10 4HN

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Zucca 15–17 Grindlay Street, West End (Map 4: C1, 34) 0131 221 9323, zuccarestaurant. co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon (unless performance at Usher Hall/Lyceum). | £10.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Adjoining the Lyceum Theatre, Zucca’s primary selling point is its on-location pre-theatre deal. Managing the daily rush requires a slick operation, and it’s impressively executed: away with the coffees, get the coats and usher the tweedand-twinset throng through the back door and into the theatre. While abuzz preshow, the atmosphere exits at curtain-rise, leaving remaining diners to study the starstudded show posters in peace. Although it changes for each show, keeping it refreshed for regulars, the theatrical menu delivers little of the performance it promises. Citrusy red mullet salad with fennel is fine, but less so plaice with herb crust, while John Dory with baccala bon-bon ball, chewy razor clams and tomato ‘fondue’ that is just tomatoes betrays a disappointing difference between description and reality. Desserts are in the same vein: pistachio and white chocolate crème brûlée and vanilla panacotta with ginger and clementine sound lovely but don’t quite live up to the billing. A solid pre-theatre option then, particularly when dishes follow through on their promise. + Slick pre-theatre operation - Some dishes don’t live up to billing

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps and links, go to

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MEXICAN Long established as one of Edinburgh’s favourites, this category is still flourishing. And a flurry of new arrivals cropping up across the city continues to enhance the choice, particularly when it comes to takeaway food. Epitomised by a party mood, casual dining and a clientele of all ages, Mexican restaurants offer something for everyone. Subtle or spicy, a feast or a filler, quality is assured and a lively atmosphere guaranteed. And then there’s the tequila! Reviewer: Colin Renton

The Basement Bar and Restaurant 10–12a Broughton Street, New Town See Bars & Pubs

4 The Blue Parrot Cantina 49 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 18) 0131 225 2941, blueparrotcantina.co.uk | Closed Mon | £13.50 (dinner)

Some things about the Blue Parrot Cantina appear little changed since it opened in 1993. There are still outdoor toilets, albeit just a couple of steps from the dining room, while the décor and furniture remain somewhat rustic. But that’s part of the allure of this place, which is as popular as ever, as the steady turnover of tables among regulars and tourists testifies. And a glance at the menu underlines why. Chef David Downie produces food of a consistently high standard from his kitchen beside the entrance. Hidden among the usual suspects are a clutch of dishes that make the Blue Parrot a little different from its peers. Examples include starters such as

mushrooms in a tomato, basil and chilli sauce, with crispy tortilla, or a spicy bean soup with a fiery aftertaste. By contrast, mains include a more subtle combination in the form of haddock baked in a jalapeño and coriander sauce with a tangy lime breadcrumb topping. Among the desserts, fruit chimi (Kahlua with apple or banana wrapped in tortillas and deep fried) is an indulgently sweet finale. + Imaginative menu and clever use of limited floor space - The thought of outdoor loos – but it’s not as bad as it sounds

Bodega 62 Elm Row, Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A5, 17) 0131 556 7930, ilovebodega.com | £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

What you see is what you get at this simply furnished restaurant with a single row of tables and room for only 20 diners. A relative newcomer to the capital’s Mexican scene, Bodega is steadily building a local clientele drawn by a short menu of tacos that is packed with imaginative flavour combinations. Among the starters is a fine example of ceviche from the skilled Peruvian chef, who also delivers typical Mexican favourites such as chilli beef. For mains a range of tacos – two pairs per diner is the recommendation – span flavours as diverse as beer and poblano-glazed tofu, roast mushrooms and chilli squash, breaded cod bites and pulled pork with charred pineapple salsa, ensuring there is something to suit all palates. Desserts are chosen from the specials list and could include an apple burrito, spiced with cinnamon and served with whipped cream. While soft refreshments are available, the absence of a drinks licence means diners can bring their own booze for a small corkage charge, and if you can’t make it in to the restaurant don’t panic – they offer delivery via their website. + Tacos to suit all tastes - Lunch time opening only at weekends

Illegal Jack’s 113–117 Lothian Road, West End (Map 4: C2, 40) 0131 622 7499, illegaljacks.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

PHOTO: CHRISTINA KERNOHAN

Although much of its businesses is in the takeaway market, Illegal Jack’s also plays to the sit-down crowd, as frequent full houses for lunch and at peak evening times will testify. Simple décor and well-spaced tables create a casual ambience, but freshly made food is the main attraction. Diners placing an order at the counter might label it a fast-food joint, but food delivered to the table, with proper cutlery, and a waitress popping by to check all is well are in keeping with a more formal set-up. The paper menu offers four-step guidance on how to construct a main of burrito, taco or quesadilla with a filling of beans and salsa. Meanwhile fajitas, for dine-in only, come with a range of fillings. Meat fans will love the tender steak, marinated overnight to maximise flavour and brought to the table sizzling in the skillet and washed down by a Brewdog beer, Thistly Cross cider, wine, or refillable soft drink. And then, perhaps, a return visit to the counter to be tempted by the cakes and desserts. + No-nonsense, freshly made Mexican staples - No bills, so diners pay on each visit to the counter

Los Cardos 281 Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A3, 7) 0131 555 6619, loscardos.co.uk | £8.50 (lunch) / £8.50 (dinner)

Bodega: a colourful, slimline tacqueria newly arrived on Leith Walk 84 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, Neil Miller’s face should be the colour of the extra-hot red salsa

he dispenses. He plotted his foray into the Edinburgh restaurant market while travelling around the USA, and the outcome was this eatery on Leith Walk, which satisfies demand on several levels. Up to ten diners can sit at tables to enjoy familiar dishes, and some that are less well known. For others, Los Cardos is a takeaway stop, and there is also a burgeoning delivery service for orders made by telephone or online. A two-step process invites diners to choose from tacos, quesadillas or burritos (also available in a bowl without a tortilla), then to select a filling and extras. These include the traditional meat and vegetables accompanied by a selection of salsas, guacamole and sour cream, as well as an unlikely but delicious match with haggis. A favourite of author Irvine Welsh on his trips home, it is a combination Los Cardos claims to have created. That it is now appearing on Mexican menus elsewhere gives extra kudos to Mr Miller. + Create your own tasty combination - Delivery limited to three miles

Mariachi 7 Victoria Street, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 25) 0131 623 0077, mariachi-restaurant. co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The Grim Reaper’s presence may prove disconcerting, but thankfully it is a temporary distraction as one of Edinburgh’s ghost tours pass by. Inside, Mariachi continues to thrive. Friendly staff buzz around a dining area that benefits from warm décor and a lively vibe enhanced by the frequent turnover of tables as some diners opt for a quick bite while others linger. A downstairs space is available for private functions, and an outdoor terrace is ideal for sunny days. The bar stocks an impressive range of tequilas, served as shots or in cocktails sipped while selecting from a menu including staples such as nachos, thick with cheese and lightly spiced salsa. Alternatively, chilli adds just enough of a kick to camarones served with garlic and lime to enliven the palate for fajitas with unlimited tortillas or a pair of tacos served with a choice of fillings including pork belly carnitas, accompanied by rice and refried beans. The mains are well prepared, if somewhat predictable. Not so the dessert list featuring affogato Mexicana, a novel take on the Italian offering, with the amaretto replaced, of course, by tequila. + Lively atmosphere and solid cooking - Easy to overdo the tequilas

4 Miro’s Cantina Mexicana 184 Rose Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 52) 0131 225 4376, miroscantinamexicana.com | £12 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Tables at Miro’s may be squeezed into the compact space but the hubbub of diners and the clatter of cutlery on plates combine with the background music to ensure that the atmosphere is cosy and chilled rather than cramped and intrusive. And in summer, outdoor tables open up the possibility of people watching. Prominent on the list of starters is ceviche pacifico, a combination of fish and seafood in lime, chilli and spices, which work in harmony to ooze freshness and enhance the dish. Alongside the regular options such as fajitas, which emerge sizzling from the kitchen, are the chef’s taco daily specials. These showcase the chef’s creativity, with options that could include tacos de pato con mole poblano – a flavour-packed combination of crispy shredded duck with peppers and onions in tortilla and accompanied by a chilli and chocolate sauce. Adding to the authenticity of the dining experience is a wine list featuring

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several Mexican bottles, and to finish there’s the Hispanic favourite – churros with chocolate sauce – in a portion suitable for sharing. + Enterprising menu shows imagination - Usually need to book during the summer

Pancho Villa’s 240 Canongate, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 25) 0131 557 4416, panchovillas.co.uk | £8.50 (set lunch) / £16.50 (dinner)

Pancho Villa was a Mexican revolutionary, whose followers were labelled ‘Villistas’. This restaurant bearing his name has been servicing demand from regulars and tourists for more than two decades. It is also pitching at the student market and seeking to benefit from the city’s reputation as a destination for hen and stag parties. However, the split-level layout ensures a natural division between boisterous diners and smaller, more intimate groups. The food also offers something for most tastes. Starters could include a deliciously gooey queso fundido – melted cheese – studded with chorizo or mushrooms. Mains span a range of spiciness and richness. Barbacoa comprises open tortillas with garlic and chilli-marinated lamb, served with two salsas, while albondigas en chipotle – spiced meatballs with cheese and a chilli tomato sauce – are a step up the spice scale. And if it’s proving tricky to decide between having a drink or tucking into a dessert, tequila sticky toffee pudding is a tempting compromise. With a lively atmosphere, particularly at weekends, and a solid menu, it’s little wonder this establishment has its own band of Villistas. + Buzzing atmosphere and cheery service - Big groups can become a bit boisterous

Sabor Criollo 36 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge See Round the World

Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen 38 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D5, 69) 0131 629 1892, tacomazama. co.uk | £8 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

After proving a hit in Glasgow, Taco Mazama moved east in the summer of 2013 and is promising to be equally popular in the capital. Simply decorated and big enough for several tables with wooden benches or settees, the premises sit between George Street and Princes

4 HITLIST

MEXICAN 4 The Blue Parrot Cantina Quirky, reliable Stockbridge institution where an experienced chef delivers consistently good Mexican dishes.

4 Miro’s Cantina Mexicana A bustling venue renowned for the chef’s imaginative creations and a lively atmosphere.

Street, and a delivery service covers a huge swathe of the city. Nutritional values displayed on the wall help diners through a three-step process, choosing a type and size of meal, selecting a filling from several meat and vegetable options, then salsas or sauces. The result is anything from a small burrito or fajita that will see off hunger pangs, to a conquistador – a feast that should satisfy even the biggest appetite. Alternatives include tacos, salad bowls or a burrito bowl featuring all but the tortilla. And if there’s still room, churros or waffles should complete the job. Hearty eaters may also be drawn by the occasional Tuesday challenge which offers free food and a place on the wall of fame to anyone who eats a triple burrito in less than ten minutes. + Fast food Mexican-style, made to order - Delivery times don’t allow for traffic jams

Tex Mex II 64 Thistle Street, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 78) 0131 260 9699, texmex2.com | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

The flaming fajitas at Tex Mex II certainly live up to their name, served in tequila which is set alight just before they are delivered to your table. While the theatrical show is repeated several times on an average night, there are many other reasons why this establishment is popular with clientele spanning the age groups. The compact layout offers an intimate atmosphere, although the lack of space between some tables means it may be too cosy for some. Moreish popcorn appears as standard and is a tasty precursor to starters that include a small portion of a mild chilli con carne served with tortilla chips rather than the rice which accompanies the larger maincourse version. Alternatively, crisp flautas stuffed with chicken are packed with flavour and set the tone for mains such as tacos de la casa with roast beef and Mexican trimmings, or chargrilled steaks – and vegetarians also have plenty of choice. And, if there’s still room, a bitter chocolate tart is a lovely way to finish. + Top-notch fajitas and much more in a central location - Limited space between some tables

Viva Mexico 41 Cockburn Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 7) 0131 226 5145, viva-mexico.co.uk | £8.50 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

The chocolate and chilli cheesecake is a final stamp of authenticity from a kitchen in which chef Luis Mayoral – a native of Veracruz – weaves his magic. In the three decades since the Gonzalez family opened Viva Mexico, the restaurant has earned a reputation as the home of genuine Mexican cuisine, drawing its custom from tourists and a group of loyal regulars. The dining space is split over two floors, with the upstairs area adorned by old sombreros and monochrome images of bygone Mexico. The menu leans heavily on tradition, with starters including ceviche featuring chunks of white fish given a refreshing tang by its lime marinade, and a sopa de tortilla – a thick tomato soup poured over tortilla chips, packed with flavour and enhanced by avocado, cheese, sour cream and chilli. For mains, alongside popular staples such as flautas stuffed with shredded chicken, the management have yielded to demand by adding fajitas to the menu although strictly speaking they are not Mexican. Another recent addition is taqueria street food which features an array of tapa-style dishes. + Authentic Mexican sights, sounds and flavours - No taqueria on Friday and Saturday evenings

NORTH AMERICAN The special relationship may have the occasional bump along the way, but the North American dining scene in Edinburgh remains perennially popular and gloriously diverse. As a section, this covers a lot of geography, and history, and there’s definitely more on offer than just diners, burgers and steaks. North American food is rich in taste, big on hospitality and just as fond of artistry as it is of quantity. That said, if you do feel like some of the best burgers in town… Reviewers: Stan Blackley, Teddy Craig, Steve Morton, Justin Tilbury

Bell’s Diner 7 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 23) 0131 225 8116 | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Is it possible to review Bell’s Diner without mentioning that it’s an institution? Apparently not, but after 42 years of serving up burgers and steaks, this neighbourhood restaurant has surely earned it. Working with the old adage ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’, Bell’s has maintained a devotion to keeping things simple and consistent. From the top, the starters are hardly exotic, ranging from a deliciously buttery garlic bread to a series of fairly staid salads, and it’s obvious that the main draw here are the burgers. Quite right too. Available in three sizes, ranging from manageable to substantial to outrageous, the burgers are a heady mix of chargrilled, lightly herbed patty with copious toppings from straight cheese to bacon and egg to pepper via Roquefort and garlic butter. Served alongside a hefty pile of fries and with a gloriously bewildering selection of sauces, these delicious beasts make desserts rather redundant, but if you have room, the toffee sauce and ice-cream sundae pancake is a delightfully over-thetop finish. + Easy-going, unpretentious dining - Booking essential: this tiny place fills fast

Buffalo Grill • 12–14 Chapel Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D5, 59) 0131 667 7427, buffalogrill. co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner) • 1 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B1, 6) 0131 332 3864, buffalogrill.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Both the Buffalo Grills have a downhome, easy familiarity and not just because the older of the two has been dishing up steaks, burgers and other chargrilled favourites for 28 years. It’s more likely to be the incredibly friendly welcome and the warm, lived-in look of the place. In both Chapel Street and Stockbridge venues, booths and tables jostle together in the small space, underneath various Native American themed pictures and artwork. Despite a recent menu change the emphasis remains steadfastly on the grill, but for a starter it’s well worth checking out the nachos, which deliver a satisfying smack of heat alongside the cooling guacamole, salsa and gooey cheese while still remaining light and crispy. Carnivores are well served here: the ‘El Diablo’ burger is a juicy, smoky treat, covered in layers of cheese, sour cream, guacamole and jalapeños. The vegetarian ‘Andybub’ burger is rather anonymous, however, as

4 HITLIST

NORTH AMERICAN 4 Calistoga Relaxed ambience, refresing flavours and a great wine list . . . much like California itself.

4 Diner 7 A neighbourhood diner with friendly staff, great burgers and fantastic steaks. Too far? Maybe you should change neighbourhood.

4 52 Canoes Cracking cocktails and plentiful ‘PolyMexiCana’ fusion food in a fun-filled venue.

the focus is really on the meat. Desserts are rather few but a toffee Dime Bar cake is a guilty rush of caramelly pleasure. + Your friendly neighbourhood steak and burger joint - Consistent rather than exceptional

Burger 94A Fountainbridge, Tollcross (Map 4: C3, 50) 0131 228 5367, burgeruk.co.uk | £8 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

Burger may be a new opening this year, but it buzzes like a well-established local eatery and a second outlet is already planned for Shandwick Place in summer. As the name more than suggests, Burger specialises in, erm, burgers. Behind huge picture windows in the urban loft-style

TIP/,67 THE EDIN-BURGERS • Bar Kohl The best burgers in town? This spot is now a contender 23 • Burger This new kid on the block buzzes like a well-established diner 85 • Cambridge Bar Famously good patties and pints 26 • City Café Comfort-food staples in an Old Town institution 28 • Diner 7 This unpretentious diner in Leith is still a winner 86 • 52 Canoes Excellent burgers from this West End newbie 86 • The Southern Bar A reinvented Southside pub delivering quality burgers for students and locals 39

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interior, you pay at the counter and take a seat while your food is cooked to order, fast and fresh. The short menu consists of beef, chicken and veggie burgers accompanied by fries and a range of interesting dips. The brioche buns are from local artisan bakers, the meat is locally sourced, the super-crunchy fries are made with russet potatoes and they are all served in compostable packaging. The specials are changed on a regular basis, the ice-creams and sorbets are made fresh on the premises each day, and a range of hot dogs are available on weekends. With dairy- and gluten-free options, kids’ portions and breakfast rolls and bagels in the morning, Burger has hit on a straightforward formula that should prove both popular and reproducible throughout the city. + Fast and fresh, no-nonsense burgers with a buzz - If you don’t like burgers, this place isn’t for you

food and wine offerings. These start with the Congressional tasting, including a guided tasting of four wines and a threecourse meal. At £32 a head, it’s excellent value, as is their two-course lunch/pretheatre menu. The regularly changing menu is a fusion of all-American and pan-Asian flavours. From the starters, spiced lamb wontons with cucumber raita perfectly balance the richness of the meat with the light, refreshing qualities of the raita. From the mains, lemon and garlic chicken is delicate yet packed with flavour and the sweet chilli sauce is a world away from the pre-packaged version that is so often expected. If you’ve room left, round things off with comforting doughnuts and coffee icecream. Calistoga really is a hidden gem. + Sophisticated yet unpretentious ambience - Location could lead to it being overlooked

4 52 Canoes The City Café

4 Calistoga 70 Rose Street North Lane, City Centre (Map 1A: C5, 61) 0131 225 1233, calistoga.co.uk | £12 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

The unassuming location on a lane off Rose Street doesn’t prepare you for what awaits within – which is a true experience. Offering a taste and snapshot of the Californian lifestyle, over 100 wines from the area populate the recently refurbished restaurant’s wine list. Calistoga’s wine tastings are a great way to experience the best of both their

starters, the cashew-coated chicken goujons are a successful twist on the usual breadcrumbed variety and the accompanying sweet chilli and orange dipping sauce has a pleasant tang to it. From the mains, burgers and steaks are the specialities of the house, with Borders beef being used for each. The wide array of toppings on offer means that you can create quite the bespoke experience with the pleasingly homemade burger that awaits you. The ribeye steak, meanwhile, is as tender and juicy as you’d expect from a restaurant that obviously prides itself on its meat dishes. If you’ve got room for a dessert then you’ll find the specials board offering up a whole host of rich and sticky treats. + Laid-back ambience - Good range of bottled beer but none on draught

19 Blair Street, Old Town See Bars & Pubs

4 Diner 7 7 Commercial Street, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 12) 0131 553 0624, diner7.co.uk | Closed Mon | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

There’s a charm to Diner 7 from the moment you walk in the door. It’s cosy, with a hint of kitsch to the decorations and cheery big band tunes playing on the stereo. The friendly staff continue the vibe and, thankfully, the food matches up to the surroundings. Of the

13 Melville Place, West End (Map 4: A1, 6) 0131 226 4732 | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Take a deep breath, descend the stairs, and enter 52 Canoes Tiki Den. Part surf shack, part underground drinking lair, its low ceiling and deep-red walls are covered with an eclectic and entertaining array of the kitsch and colourful. Essentially a bar that serves food, the emphasis here is on fun. Service is laidback and friendly and the atmosphere is hip but doesn’t take itself too seriously. The bar is well stocked and the cocktail list is well worth a look, with many showcasing a massive selection of 130+ rums. With late opening and entertainment seven nights a week, including live music, beer pong, pub quizzes, cocktail masterclasses and drinks promotions, there’s loads to take in here, but it’s the food that steals the show. Billed as ‘PolyMexiCana’, it’s a funky fusion of Polynesian, Mexican and American dishes and includes greatvalue sharing platters, nachos, burgers and burritos augmented by a changing list of interesting daily specials. Don’t miss the ‘infamous waffles’ and do imagine you’ll be paddling home in a canoe . . . after a cocktail-fuelled feed-up at 52 Canoes, anything’s possible. + Cracking cocktails and funky food - Potential sensory overload

Katie’s Diner

PHOTO © JANNICA HONEY

12 Barclay Terrace, Southside (Map 3A: B2, 24) 0131 229 1394, katiesdiner.com | No Kids (under 5) | Closed Sun/Mon | £16 (dinner)

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Katie’s Diner’s husband and wife team sees Katie take the bookings and prepare the food, while Geoff manages the buzzy hubbub on the ground floor, weaving between the close-set tables and maintaining a friendly and easy banter with regulars and new patrons. A quirky, scattershot approach to décor has black and white shots of New York, Vettriano prints and an electric guitar jostling for attention, but there’s something charming about this slice of the Big Apple in Bruntsfield. The focus here is on simple, skilfully prepared food, and the strengths lie in the steaks and burgers that make up a large chunk of the menu. A charred, peppery and juicy burger is topped with cheese and a small tower of crispy, salty bacon. Steak easily outstrips its reasonable price – the rump a tender, meltingly soft centre with an expertly seared exterior and a sharp, creamy topping of blue cheese. Desserts are of the rich and sticky variety, and come served with lashings of ice-cream. + Feels like being a welcome guest in a slightly eccentric household - Bony chairs mean you won’t outstay your welcome

Miller & Carter Cramond Brig, Cramond (Map 1A: A1, off) millerandcarter.co.uk/ millerandcartercramondbrig

Having closed abruptly just before Christmas 2013, the Cramond Brig has been treated to a six-figure facelift by new owners Miller & Carter and the opening of their new outpost is notable in that it marks their first venture beyond Hadrian’s Wall. Expect the meat to be treated appropriately – the steakhouse chain claims to sell more than a million steaks each year across its thirty establishments, with all chefs undergoing specialist training at their own ‘steak school’ before being allowed anywhere near the grill. All the regular cuts will be offered, with a handful of options also served bone-in, including a porterhouse and T-bone. The steaks are aged for a minimum of 28 days (hung for a week and then matured off the bone for another three) and the intention is to use only Scottish beef. [Not yet open at time of going to press. See food.list. co.uk for updates.]

The New York Steam Packet 31 Rose Street Lane North, New Town (Map 1A: D5, 68) 0131 220 4825, newyorksteampacket.co.uk | Closed Sun | £15.95 (set dinner)

The New York Steam Packet has the feeling of a secret club, hidden away up a lane off Rose Street, with its spiral staircase leading to a small cosy dining room. Even if you did happen to wander past and fancy popping in, you risk being unlucky enough to have hit on a night when it’s closed: the restaurant only opens midweek when it’s already had advance bookings for that night. Once inside, it proves a charming bolthole serving simple but satisfying fare with an American leaning. At £14 for three courses midweek (£15.95 at weekends) you can’t argue with the value. Add in that it’s a BYOB restaurant and it becomes an ideal choice for a group night out. Steaks and burgers are NYSP’s speciality, with the Scottish-American fusion haggis burger a good comfortfood choice. From the desserts, the toffee crunch Dime Bar cake is as rich as it sounds. If you’re looking for a reasonably priced, centrally located but quirky venue in which to hook up with friends, you may just have found it. + Great value - Booking is crucial or it may be closed

Smoke Stack 53–55 Broughton Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 25) 0131 556 6032, smokestack. org.uk | £10.45 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

With its urban-vintage loft-style interior, bluesy soundtrack and friendly laid-back service, Smoke Stack is a little portion of bustling Brooklyn on busy Broughton Street. Popular with confirmed carnivores who enjoy a nice big slab of quality meat simply cooked, the place serves up chargrilled rump, ribeye, sirloin and fillet steaks, burgers, chicken and fish – as well as salads, sandwiches, smoothies and shakes. Smoke Stack works hard and works well, with a bit of something for everyone, including express lunches, weekend brunches, pre-theatre deals and a good children’s menu. You can also order online or book a lunchtime takeaway using a smartphone app. As a member of the Scotch Beef Club and Sustainable Restaurant Association, the restaurant takes pride in the local sourcing of quality ingredients, particularly the signature 21-day dry-aged beef from the Scottish Borders. With crowd-pleasing starters such as nachos, chilli, calamari, mussels and ribs, and in-demand desserts like cheesecake, brownies and ice-cream sundaes, no one will leave here hungry, especially as the portions are big enough

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to burst even the bulkiest of bellies. + Belly-bursting portions to satisfy the most confirmed carnivore - Squeezing your bursting belly between some of the tables might be difficult

Tex Mex II 64 Thistle Street, New Town See Mexican

Wannaburger 7–8 Queensferry Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 15) 0131 220 0036, wannaburger. com | £8 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

Offering competitively priced Americanstyle burgers and hotdogs, the refashioned Wannaburger is a bold move to provide a locally owned alternative to the big burger chains. Its brightly lit shopfront premises hold a row of booths and white wipe-clean tables and chairs that are uncomfortable enough to ensure that you eat and go. You order at the kitchen counter, take your seat and wait for your little black box to vibrate, telling you that your cooked-to-order food is ready for collection. The farm-assured Scotch beef burgers are served in artisan-baked buns and can be complemented from a list of toppings, sides and dips and washed down with shakes, sodas and floats. There are vegetarian options and there’s plenty of choice for kids. Taking on the big burger chains inevitably means that you need to compete with them at their level. In doing so, Wannaburger has emulated some of their more wasteful practices and has recreated their no-frills dining experience. Given its prominent position, seven-day opening, meal deals and loyalty schemes, Wannaburger will compete, but it won’t attract those who already choose to avoid burger chains as it’s just not different enough. + A locally owned fast-food alternative to the big chain burgers - Emulates the big chain burgers too closely

TIP/,67 FOR STEAK • Blackwood’s Impressively crusty steaks from the unpronounceable Josper grill 92 • Kyloe Attention-worthy steaks and quality sides in the West End 96 • McKirdy’s Steakhouse Owned by butchers, the steaks are well sourced and delicious 97 • Mussel & Steak Bar Grass-fed Scotch beef aged for 38 days results in superlative steaks 71 • Shebeen Quality meat prepared on site in downto-earth surroundings 90 • Smoke Stack Just the place for people who enjoy a big slab of quality meat cooked simply 86 • Steak Blow-thebudget steaks for special occasions 99

ROUND the WORLD Edinburgh has always been a cosmopolitan city, but has there ever been a wider and more diverse range of restaurants from all over the world? Take advantage of the city’s manageable size, which allows you to travel around the culinary world in just a few miles. From the sizzling spices of Brazil to the rich mezze of Lebanon; from warming Polish bigos to the chargrilled kebabs of Turkey – wherever you choose, a warm welcome awaits. Reviewers: Stan Blackley, Teddy Craig, Steve Morton, Justin Tilbury

4 Beirut MIDDLE EAST 24 Nicolson Square, Southside (Map 2A: D5, 67) 0131 667 9919, beirutrestaurant. co.uk | £6.50 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Despite being only a few years old, Beirut has firmly established itself on the capital’s dining scene by offering quality fare at affordable prices. Although there’s a full range of mains, including shish tawouk – succulent chicken skewers with garlic, spicy and tahini dips – regulars often opt instead for a selection of starters. With around two dozen to choose from, including a plethora for veggies, this is where Edinburgh’s first Lebanese restaurant really earns its stripes. Moutabal baba ghanouj is a smoky aubergine treat; falafel is crisp on the outside but breaks apart beautifully to reveal its light centre and Beiruty hummus is fiery in both colour and spice level. The lunch menu is a bargain entry point for those new to this cuisine and the cheery, attentive staff will be happy to help you choose. There’s no alcohol licence but a wide range of coffees, teas and soft drinks are available and the BYOB corkage is modest. + Setting the standard for Edinburgh’s Middle Eastern restaurants - No weekend bookings in August

Boteco do Brasil BRAZILIAN 47 Lothian Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 48) 0131 220 2487, botecodobrasil. com | £5.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Inhabiting the long narrow space that used to be Negociants, Boteca Do Brasil is a busy, bustly burst of colour and sound. Graffiti-style murals on the walls jostle for space with drinks offers and birthday packages, and the floor is filled with tables and leatherette booths. The emphasis here is on having a good time, and the menu reflects this bright and breezy attitude, offering up a choice of tapas or a more traditional starter and main. To the tapas then, and the chorizo sausage comes sliced, coated in chillies and accompanied by light and crisp fried cassava. It’s rich, sharp, spicy and pungent, but if you fancy something more delicate, try the Pão de Queijo – soft and chewy cheese balls. From the mains, a trio of fish is a rewarding dish of chargrilled sea bass, salmon and king prawns, although the balance is tipped slightly in favour of quantity over quality, but the feijoada (a stew of black beans and smoked meat) is a deep, dark, unctuous and sticky treat. + Not just food and drink – there’s a huge range of activities downstairs - Conversation difficult if sitting too close to the speakers

Brazilian Sensation AMERICAS 117–119 Buccleuch Street, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 12) 0131 667 0400, braziliansensation.co.uk | Closed Sun | £6.50 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

If ever there was an example of a restaurant that hides its light under a bushel, it must be Brazilian Sensation. At first glance it looks more like a café than a restaurant, but to walk past it would be to truly miss out – this is one of the very best Brazilian restaurants in Edinburgh. There’s a great deal of enthusiasm on display here, and the sense is that this is a labour of love for owners John and Lucia. Try kicking things off with some Brazilian cheese breads – small, chewy and deliciously cheesy, these are probably only outdone by some smoked fish croquettes, crisp breadcrumbs coating a light, fluffy and aromatic centre. Of the mains, the batata doce – sweet potato, ginger and coconut – is a lovely balance of salt and sweet, with just a glimmer of spice, while the black beans with onion and garlic are restorative, especially with a few drops of chilli oil on the side. Special mention has to go to the homemade desserts, which feature a beautifully refreshing, sharply sweet passion fruit ice-cream. Open mainly for lunch, they also take evening bookings for dinner parties of eight or more. + Cheap, incredibly cheerful and unapologetically exotic dining - Outside the festival, only opens in the evening on request

Circus MIDDLE EAST 8 St Mary’s Street, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 21) 0131 556 6963, circusbistro.com | £13 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Centrally located just off the Royal Mile, Circus fulfils a number of roles throughout the day. The bright, woodpanelled room opens early for breakfast with very much a café feel, then caters for those looking for a light lunch or just coffee and cake in the pretty rear garden if the elements allow. By evening, candles have completed the transformation into a cosy, stylish bistro, decorated with original local art. Daytime and night menus both lean towards the Middle East, though burgers, pasta and steak are there for the more traditionally inclined. Vegetarians are spoiled for choice as the majority of starters are meat-free, and indeed cigar borek – delicate filo pastry tubes of feta and parsley – is a better bet here than the calamari. For mains, chickpea curry is light and elegantly spiced, again winning the head to head against skewered marinated chicken. The accompanying brown bread is tasty if a little incongruous, and the short wine list is augmented by an encouraging range of Scottish bottled beers. + Something for everyone, at all hours - Humdrum salad

David Bann 56-58 St Mary’s Street, Old Town See Bistros & Brasseries

Empires TURKISH 24 St Mary’s Street, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 20) 0131 466 0100, empirescafe. co.uk | £15.95 (five-mezze set dinner)

Hidden away behind an unassuming exterior halfway down St Mary’s Street you’ll find Empires, part restaurant, part enchanted grotto. Split across two levels, or three if you count the raised window table with a commanding view of the room, the dark-wood interior is lit by dozens of twinkling coloured lamps which can even be purchased if you

4 HITLIST

ROUND THE WORLD 4 Beirut Smart service and consistently good food make this hard to walk by.

4 Indaba An unusual mix of influences combine to brilliant effect.

4 Pomegranate Plain-looking restaurant hiding some unexpected and special experiences.

4 Shebeen A real sense of craft meets generous portion sizes in this South African steakhouse.

wish to recreate the effect at home. The straightforward menu consists of around 20 mezze dishes, from which you choose five to build a platter alongside warm bread and salad. All the usual suspects are here including hummus, falafel and grilled halloumi cheese. Veggies are particularly well catered for with only a handful of choices off-limits such as sucuk (Turkish garlic sausage) and kiremet kofte (beef and herb meatballs in a tomato sauce). Soft drinks and a decent range of teas are available and the BYO policy means that you can come prepared if you fancy a tipple. Live music is a feature at weekends so the upper floor may be a better option for those wishing to chat. + Quick, no-nonsense mezze platters in a very pretty room - Some hot dishes are nearer tepid

Fatma LEBANESE 92 Commercial Street, Leith (Map 5A: B1, 3) 0131 554 4000, fatma.co.uk | Closed Mon | £9.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

From the outset it’s obvious that Fatma is an accomplished proposition. Although only a year old, it feels established, with a maturity and style that belie its youth. The chocolate-hued interior is classy and the welcome is courteous and considerate – the feeling is one of walking into an upmarket boutique hotel. If anything, though, this sober look is quite misleading, as the food is anything but conservative – it bursts with life and variety, the striking, contrasting flavours and textures of each dish conjuring up a real sense of the exotic. The mezze dishes are a great way to experience the best of the menu. Fresh hummus topped with chilli, garlic and lemon is a refreshing and unctuous accompaniment to some lamb sausages, spiced with cloves and cooked with pomegranate sauce and rosemary. The halloumi is rich, sharp and salty and the vegetarian kibbeh – soft, small spheres of bulgur wheat, spiced with chilli and lemon – are both delicate and spicy. Desserts are select, but delicious, homemade and accompanied with coffee that is strong, dark and cardamom spiced. + Outdoor patio for sunshine and sheesha pipes - Commercial Quay can be awfully quiet on a week night The List Eating & Drinking Guide 87

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TABLE Talk

GERRY NEILSON ON BUTCHERY I hail from Drumchapel and first started as a butcher on Glasgow’s Byres Road when I was just 14. A few years later, I moved through to Edinburgh: a world away! I couldn’t understand them and they couldn’t understand me. People would come in and ask for cuts I’d never heard of. A popeseye steak was called a heugh bone steak, which was totally new to me. One of the cheaper cuts, now usually called the chuck tender, was known in Edinburgh as a Glasgow fillet. More than once, I remember having to sneak through the back of the shop to phone someone to find out what it was the customer was actually after. In those days, housewives knew just what they wanted and how to cook it. Now, people mainly buy their meat from supermarkets, but they only offer a limited range and that in turn means a lot of that wisdom has been lost to the public. At Campbells, we’re unique in that we still cut exactly what people want and work with them to find what they’re looking for – even if they don’t know the name for it. However, slowly but surely, people are starting to want to know more about where their meat comes from again. A good butcher will work closely with the farmer, and so should be able to tell you all about the product. I go up to the North Highlands myself to see how some of our very best meat, Mey Selections, is reared, and that knowledge I can then pass on to our customers. I love talking to the chefs and household cooks we work with, and it means we get it right for them. If you enjoy cooking meat, the best advice is simple: get to know your butcher. Q Gerry Neilson is one of the master butchers at Campbells Prime Meat, who supply many of the venues featured in the Eating & Drinking Guide. campbellsmeat. com

88 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Hanam’s KURDISH 3 Johnston Terrace, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 29) 0131 225 1329, hanams.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

When a restaurant’s most popular dishes are named after the owner’s children, you know you’ve found a restaurateur who takes pride in what they do. Jamal Ahmed, owner of Hanam’s and its sibling eateries Pomegranate and Laila’s, clearly lets his passion for fast and friendly Kurdish and Middle Eastern food come to the fore. Decorated in rich red with ornate furniture, cushions, wall hangings and lamps, Hanam’s has a warm, welcoming feel and serves an extensive menu of charcoal-grilled kebabs, shawarma and wraps with plenty vegetarian options, as well as mezze-style starters and sides and some interesting desserts. With a variety of superb-value set meals, banquets and taster menus, Hanam’s has something for everyone – except alcohol, however it does sell nonalcoholic wines and beers and generously offers BYOB at no charge. A whole lamb can be prepared for private parties in the downstairs dining room, and you can smoke a shisha pipe with a cup of smoky Arabic coffee on the outside terrace. Humble though it is, Hanam’s rivals Edinburgh Castle as an attraction at the top end of the Royal Mile. + Food so good the restaurateur names dishes after his children - No bookings taken during the Edinburgh Military Tattoo, just walk-ups Laila’s Bistro: flavour-packed Mediterranean food just off the Royal Mile

Hanedan TURKISH 41 West Preston Street, Southside (Map 3C: D3, 21) 0131 667 4242, hanedan. co.uk | Closed Mon | £9.95 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Behind a modest shop frontage on West Preston Street, tiny Hanedan is often crammed with regulars who have come to love its unpretentious charm and keen prices. But check opening times: chefproprietor Gursel Bahar is very much his own man and locals are slightly wary of unpredictable closures. If you turn up on spec and it’s full, the charming Mr Bahar will suggest you retire to the nearby Cask and Barrel until a table is free, and he may well come and fetch you when it is. Once seated, olives and pitta bread are brought immediately, along with a torch so you can read the menu: this is short and simple with humuz, herkes bayildi (stewed aubergines) and other dippy things to start and chargrilled meats and fish for mains. The kuzu shish lamb is beautifully seasoned and tender too. Service is swift, but not hurried, and the staff are adept at making a very small space seem commodious. [Not recently visited.]

4 Indaba AFRICAN 3 Lochrin Terrace, Tollcross (Map 3A: B1, 8) 0131 221 1554, edindaba.co.uk | Closed Sun | £17 (dinner)

Ploughing its own idiosyncratic furrow since 2010, just round the corner from the Cameo cinema, the modestly sized and quirkily decorated Indaba combines tapas with South African and Venezuelan influences to delightful effect. Although the menu takes in Spanish favourites such as patatas bravas and a kicking gambas pil-pil, a little adventurousness can lead you to the sensational chicken and apricot sosaties, a Cape Malay speciality, or the arepa section where lightly fried corn patties enclose fillings such as Macsween’s haggis or chorizo and fried egg. Vegetarians are particularly well accommodated and those with gluten-intolerances can choose from an extensive selection. Some semblance of

self-control when ordering is advisable as the homemade desserts such as melktert custard tart and rich Cape brandy pudding are well worth leaving room for (the indecisive can opt for three different half portions). Add in an interesting selection of beers and a concise, modestly priced wine list supplemented with a BYO policy (wine must be bought at the local wine shop) and you have all the ingredients for a successful, crosscultural night out. + Accomplished food in a pleasingly unconventional room - Its appeal means you’ll probably need to book at the weekend

Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant MONGOLIAN 43 Assembly Street, Leith, Leith (Map 5A: D1, 19) 0131 555 0005, khublaikhan. co.uk | £22.95 (set lunch) / £26.95 (set dinner)

The banqueting room’s throne, ideal for a stag/hen or someone celebrating a birthday, gives a hint of Khublai Khans’ appeal for group nights out. It’s worth pointing out that ‘Mongolian barbecue’ refers to the cooking style more than the recipes or ingredients – just in case the presence of kangaroo, springbok, and crocodile has you reaching for that natural history atlas. Starters and desserts are selected from the menu. Of these, the cumin-flavoured minced wild boar pastry parcel is a palate-pleasing beginning, while the richness of the plum crème brûlée is nicely offset by the refreshing addition of cardamom. Main courses are put together yourself, to be cooked up and brought to your table. This can involve the aforementioned exotic meats but more everyday options are available too. You select a rice or noodle base and add vegetables and meat of your choice. Various oils, sauces and spices allow you to get creative, though you can follow recipe suggestions to avoid things going awry. Having control of your own spices should please diners at both ends of the adventurousness scale. + Being able to cross so many exotic

meats off your bucket list - Perhaps too much focus on novelty

Laila’s Bistro MEDITERRANEAN 63 Cockburn Street, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 9) 0131 226 5097, lailas-bistro.co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

This recent entrant to Edinburgh’s dining scene is brought to you by the people behind Hanam’s and Pomegranate and the menu is in very much the same territory, with a mix of Mediterranean dishes supplemented by the occasional bistro favourite like hand-made pasta and fish and chips. Dips of hummus, baba ghanoush and tzatziki served with the restaurant’s own Iraqi samoon bread are an excellent way to start. Full-flavoured spicy lamb sausage casserole arrives in a ceramic pot alongside a generous portion of rice, and chilli prawn skewer on bulgur wheat has a fantastic chargrilled flavour with the sauce served separately so you can decide how hot to make it. Baking, including the obligatory baklava, forms the majority of the dessert menu and smoky, cardamom-scented Arabic coffee is just one of a wide range of hot and cold drinks available. Corkage-free BYOB further enhances this newcomer’s appeal. + Window seats have a superb view up to the Royal Mile - Space is at a premium so luggageladen tourists may cause a kerfuffle

Los Argentinos AMERICAS 28–30 West Preston Street, Southside (Map 3C: D3, 20) 0131 668 3111, losargentinossteakhouseinedinburgh. co.uk | £22 (dinner)

This Argentine steakhouse does exactly what it says on the tin and, more importantly, does it well. The restaurant is fairly understated, with nods to the Argentine theme coming through in the menu rather than in any overt décor choices. homemade chimichurri sauce is already on the table, ready to be added to whichever meat feast you choose to order as a main course. It also comes

ROUND THE WORLD

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in handy for adding a bit of lubrication to the enjoyable empanadas (Argentine meat and corn pasties). From the mains, the gran parillada mixta for two offers you and your dining partner the chance â&#x20AC;&#x201C; almost rather the challenge â&#x20AC;&#x201C; of sampling a huge selection of meat dishes. Grilled chicken breast, sausage, and a variety of steaks (cooked to your preference, naturally) all appear, with chips supplied too in case you somehow have any room left. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an impressive and very enjoyable spread, but does mean that dessert is likely to be beyond you. Still, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve come to Los Argentinos to experience carnivore heaven, not the ice-cream. + Tender steaks - Probably not somewhere to take a vegetarian friend

of tekally brzaw is chargrilled kofta kebab, chicken and lamb skewers with satisfyingly singed edges served with salad and a large naan bread that is wafer thin yet light and fluffy. Nawroz doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t serve alcohol but BYOB is available at no charge. The service here is fast and friendly and the food tasty and affordable, making it suitable for all budgets and occasions. + Tasty and affordable food for all budgets and occasions - Slightly uninspiring dessert menu

My Big Fat Greek Kitchen

Situated on a brightly lit corner opposite the Playhouse Theatre, Pomegranate looks like a convenient place to grab a good value pre-theatre fill-up before catching a show, but take a closer look and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more here than immediately meets the eye. The main event is to eat mezze style in the bright and welcoming ground-floor restaurant, selecting from a long list of tapas-sized hot and cold Middle Eastern dishes to share, as well as kebabs, shawarma and rice dishes and plenty of veggie options. The service is super-friendly and the fill-up comes fast and tasty. While Pomegranate chooses not to use its alcohol license, BYOB is available at no charge. As well as all this, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s well worth checking out the sideshow. Descend the steps outside the restaurant and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll plunge into an unexpected, sweetsmelling basement terrace area with four cosy, under-pavement â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;cavesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; where you can smoke a shisha pipe with friends, or host a get together in the Arabian Nights room with its tented ceiling, floor cushions and traditional low tables where the experience can be as special as any show taking place over the road. + A reliably good value restaurant hiding some unexpected and special experiences - Gets busy on theatre nights, so eat late after the theatre crowdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gone to the show

GREEK 6 Brougham Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 3) 0131 228 1030, mybigfatgreekkitchen.co.uk | Closed Mon | ÂŁ19 (dinner)

The name may conjure a loud and brash image, but in fact this restaurant offers an elegantly understated experience that allows the food to speak for itself. The dark wood furnishings and blue dĂŠcor make for pleasant surroundings in which to sample a variety of traditional Greek dishes. You can either opt for a full main course, such as the rich and warming cinnamon tones of the tender beef stifado, or for a combination of mezethes. These small plates, the Greek equivalent of tapas, offer surprisingly generous portions so if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re torn between ordering three or four as a main course, stick with three and you can always add to them later. Of these, the pleasingly meaty prawns in feta and tomato sauce that make up the garides saganaki are a seafood loverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dream, while the courgette rissoles manage the trick of feeling both light yet substantial. The relaxing environment and palate-pleasing cuisine, washed down with Greek wines or Mythos beer, make for a genuinely enjoyable dining experience. + The rich taste and aroma of the beef stifado - No disabled toilets

4 Pomegranate MIDDLE EAST 1 Antigua Street, New Town (Map 1B: D5, 38) 0131 556 8337, pomegranatesrestaurant.com | ÂŁ7.50 (set lunch) / ÂŁ16 (dinner)

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Sabor Criollo AMERICAS

Nawroz KURDISH 26â&#x20AC;&#x201C;30 Potterow, Old Town (Map 2A: D5, 66) 0131 667 2299, nawrozrestaurant. com | ÂŁ7 (set lunch) / ÂŁ16 (dinner)

Nawroz is named after the Persian New Year holiday, but you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to be marking a special occasion to sample this restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s authentic Kurdish and Middle Eastern cuisine. The dĂŠcor is a clash of modern and traditional, the dark tiled floor, bare brick walls and slick black tables paired with colourful hanging tapestries, paintings and ornate lamps. The long frontage is made up of giant sliding windows that can be opened in summer so the restaurant remains light and airy and a good spot to do some people-watching while smoking a fruity shisha pipe. A hot starter of mix dolma is melt-in-the-mouth, rice-stuffed aubergine, green pepper and vine leaves served with salad while a sizeable main

36 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B1, 10) 0131 332 3322, saborcriollo. co.uk | ÂŁ17 (lunch) / ÂŁ17 (dinner)

Once down the steep steps from the bustle of Stockbridge, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re hit with a burst of colour and music from Sabor Criollo â&#x20AC;&#x201C; so much so that it makes the rest of Edinburgh feel monochrome by comparison. From the trompe lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;oeil on the red walls depicting windows flung open to cloudless skies, the thatched bar to a tree in the corner, complete with roosting parrot â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this little basement restaurant feels like a holiday in its own right. The sense of a warm and inviting sun is a feature of the dishes too â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a starter of quesadillas is crisp, but with a rich and sharp filling, and the croquetas de bacalo are soft, light and friable as can be, if a little light on cod, and accompanied by a tart green pepper sauce. Among the mains, the Pabellon Criollo is a stand out â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a joyful plateful

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps and links, go to food.list.co.uk Accessible on all devices including smartphones and tablets, food.list. co.uk includes extended write-ups, connected events, linked features and search functions for food and drink venues across Scotland.

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 89

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of warmly spiced, juicy beef, fried plantain, refried beans, rice and salad. Alternatively, enjoy the dramatic entry of some sizzling fajitas, their bold and earthy tones matched with some cooling crème-fraîche and salsa. + You may leave with a tan - Guacamole and desserts taste store bought

4 Shebeen AFRICAN 8 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: C2, 42) 0131 629 0261, shebeenbar.co.uk | £23 (lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Sometimes with restaurants that are located upstairs, you can find yourself looking at a stairwell and trying to work out whether to take a chance on them. With Shebeen, you definitely should. This cosy and welcoming South African steakhouse manages to blend high quality with generous portions, while retaining a down-to-earth feel. If you’re dining with a companion then kicking things off with the fanagalo sharing platter is a great idea. Sausages, ribs, kebabs, meatballs and pork belly all arrive, giving a good opportunity to sample a variety of flavours. A steak is the obvious choice for a main course and this is where the restaurant really comes into its own. Animals are hand selected in advance and the meat is hung for a minimum of five weeks before being brought to the restaurant and butchered on the premises. The eventual steaks are rich, tender and cooked to perfection. The restaurant’s signature coriander-seed rub adds an unusual and palate-pleasing kick to things. Shebeen offers a hugely enjoyable steakhouse experience with a refreshing twist. + Coriander-seed rubbed steaks

- Difficult to get a sense of the

restaurant’s feel from outside

Tupiniquim BRAZILIAN The Green Police Box, Middle Meadow Walk, Lauriston Place, Old Town (Map 2A: C5, 55) tupiniquim.co.uk | Closed Sun | £8 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

There’s been plenty written about the TARDIS-like properties of the burgeoning range of street food stalls springing up in former police boxes around Edinburgh, but the range of the foods cheerfully cooked up by Fernando and Gardenia Miranda from this tiny space can only be accounted for by a rift in the space/time continuum. Take your place in the queue, often lengthy at lunchtimes, and select from one of the select but rich menu options. There’s a wait of around ten minutes per order, but it’s worth it for the likes of chicken curry piri-piri, the crisp crêpe crammed full of citrus-scented spicy chicken, its heat tempered with creamy coconut and avocado and a scattering of pecans to add some crunch. Vegetarian options don’t feel like an afterthought either, with the pumpkin a la papai delivering a rich, creamy sweetness, nicely tempered by the addition of sundried tomatoes, cheese and spinach. Of course, there are tempting sweet options too, all freshly prepared, imaginative and delivered alongside a delicious range of juices. + All this and special feijoada Saturdays and (limited) roast lamb on Thursdays - The food may be full of sunshine, but waiting in the Edinburgh rain is less so

Turkish Kitchen TURKISH 120–122 Rose Street South Lane, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 54) 0131 281 1360,

EDINBURGH’S KURDISH & MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT

• Open 7 days 12 noon to late • Private dining area • Outdoor terraced seating • Dedicated Shisha area • Regular special events

• Fixed price lunch deal • Loyalty card scheme • New indoor Shisha Bar • Extensive Dry Bar • No corkage charge BYOB

3 Johnston Terrace, Edinburgh, EH1 2PW T: 0131 225 1329 or 07888 677 613 E: hanams@hotmail.co.uk

(just beside Edinburgh Castle)

www.hanams.com

Hitlisted: The List Eating & Drinking Guide 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012 & 2013 Runner up at Scottish Entertainment Guide Restaurant Awards 2013 ‘One of Britain’s top 5 Middle East restaurants’ The Telegraph

90 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

turkish-kitchen-edinburgh.co.uk | Closed Sun | £6.50 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Situated just off the main drag of Rose Street, a few steps down a slightly unwelcoming lane, you might only find Turkish Kitchen by accident, but don’t be put off: you’ll have stumbled upon a welcome alternative to the usual West End chain eateries and theme pubs. Inside, Turkish Kitchen has the relaxed feel of a small, unpretentious café and takeaway, with basic-butchunky wooden furniture and an open kitchen to the rear from which proprietor Seyhmus Aslanalp delivers – you’ve guessed it – authentic Turkish cooking, such as mezze starters of hummus, baba ghanoush, vine leaves, calamari and spicy sausage and a selection of mains based around kebabs, lamb, chicken and seafood. There are vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options and a choice of good-value meal deals, all of which can be washed down with a Turkish Efes pilsener, a glass of Raki or a strong Turkish coffee. Turkish Kitchen feels slightly schizophrenic, acting as it does as both lunchtime and evening takeaway and a sit-down restaurant, but it gets away with it thanks to its diminutive charm and distinctive, homely cooking. + A welcome alternative to the usual West End chain eateries and theme pubs - Its hidden position down the lane may put people off

Yellow Bench POLISH 31 Crighton Place, Leith Walk, Leith (Map 5B: A3, 14) 07510 861842, yellowbench.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

The yellow bench outside carries the message that sitting on it means you are open to speaking to a complete stranger – an insight into the laid-back but friendly atmosphere within this little café. Its extra room downstairs, used as a meeting place for various arts and music groups, evokes a sense of Krakow’s trendy Kazimierz area. In the café itself, the light colours, wooden furnishings and hanging art make you feel like you could easily while away some time here. The menu offers a broad range of Polish fare, from expected classics like pierogi and bigos to another food that’s a Polish staple but less often associated with the country: crêpes. Soups at Yellow Bench can be of the filling ‘meal in themselves’ variety if choosing the kapusniak cabbage soup, or lighter options like the clear barszcz beetroot soup, which comes in a mug. Of the mains, the use of prunes in the bigos gives the stew a delicious sweetness while the schabowy pork cutlet is a real plate-filler. + Relaxed ambience . . . - . . . won’t suit those in a rush

or large; chicken kebabs are tender and moreish and the accompanying chilli dip can be given added zing if you like things spicy. Dishes arrive at the table when they’re ready, which works especially well for groups who are sharing, and veggies, vegans and gluten-avoiders won’t be stuck for choice. There’s a short, modestly priced, mainly European wine list, plus plenty of teas, coffees and soft drinks for those abstaining. + Late-running lunch menu makes this a great venue for a gossipy catch-up in the afternoon - Ensure you’re hungry before ordering the stodgy arancini

Zupa GLOBAL / DIETARY SPECIALITIES 57 Elm Row, Leith (Map 5B: A5, 19) 07564 388624 | Closed Tue | £11 (dinner)

Barely 10 feet across and with Banksystyle prints of Clint Eastwood and Bill Hicks sprayed into gaps left from squares cut out of the black, flock wallpaper, you might think tiny newcomer Zupa represents a unique dining proposition. Just wait till you see the menu. Offering up the capital’s first venue for those following the paleo/ primal diet, owner Monika Lisicka also promises to cater for veggie, vegan, raw and gluten-free customers. The international menu includes starters of khobez flatbread with homemade hummus or meaty/meat-free bigos, a comforting cabbage stew known as a national dish of Poland. Curries feature heavily among the mains and can be accompanied by Bombay potatoes or buckwheat in addition to the more traditional rice or, ahem, chips. Chicken roulade, rolled breast with bacon, cheese and garlic is one of the most expensive entrees but everything is under a tenner so a bit of experimentation won’t set you back too much. Close with a delicious decaf coffee with chicory or something from the milkshake bar. There’s no actual bar so take advantage of the free BYOB if wine or beer is part of your own diet. + An ambitious, interesting concept, ideal for those with unusual dietary requirements - The single perfunctory dessert is unlikely to be the highlight of anyone’s visit

Yeni MIDDLE EAST 73 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 94) 0131 225 5755, yenirestaurant. com | Closed Sun | £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The framed, retro posters on the wall are a clue as to what lies in store. With images of Côte d’Azur and España lining up next to invitations to visit Greece, this offshoot of Aberdeen’s Nargile Turkish restaurants has spread its wings and embraced all things Mediterranean while sticking with the small dish mezze approach. Shaksuka is the star of the show – satisfying chunks of aubergine with tomato, onion and garlic – but hummus, lightly fried calamari and heavily chargrilled halloumi are all contenders. Don’t ignore the Mini Mains section of the menu as they can be served small

Kyloe Restaurant & Grill (page 96): quality st

SCOTTISH

In association with

EDINBURGH

SCOTTISH Where once it had connotations of staid plaid and Royal Mile rip-offs, ‘Scottish’ is now more synonymous with local, seasonal and sustainable thanks to a growing coterie of talented chefs eager to showcase quality Caledonian produce. The Michelin brigade continue to lead the way, kept on their toes by the new breed who are creating interesting spaces and filling them with fresh ideas and inventive cooking, each making eating out more rewarding than ever. Reviewers: Doug Bond, Hannah Ewan, Claire Ritchie, Keith Smith

A Room in Leith 1a Dock Place, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 9) 0131 554 7427, aroomin.co.uk | £12.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

The ‘Room in . . .’ enterprise has undergone some big changes since 2013, having closed A Room in the Town and expanded the Leith outpost of Teuchters Landing pub – but the biggest change has been the shift to bigger premises for A Room in Leith, across the courtyard and into the series of adjoining rooms that once housed Skippers. The wood panelled walls are adorned with cask lids, beer signage and pictures of old Edinburgh, and the waterfront location offers prime alfresco dining when the weather allows. The menu wears its provenance on its sleeve, with everything from Newtonmore venison to Buckie crab name-checked on the page, and there’s a strong emphasis on Scottish favourites, with haggis, neeps and tatties and fish and chips present and correct. Kilo and half-kilo pots of mussels come with a variety of sauces, and there’s a reasonably priced seafood platter and some interesting vegetarian options among the main courses – think parsnip and goat’s cheese risotto with chilli and toasted pine nuts. Desserts are along the more workaday lines of cheesecake and banoffee pie. A Room in Leith has a loyal clientele and is nearly always busy – pay off for doing what it has done well for a couple of decades: welcoming large groups, local offices, children and tourists in equal measure, and serving comforting

Scottish food at reasonable prices. + Affordable Scottish bistro dishes and great for large groups - Some erratic seasoning in evidence

A Room in the West End 26 William Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 3) 0131 226 1036, aroomin.co.uk | £13.45 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

A Room in the West End’s signature dishes – haggis, neeps and tatties to start and their famous banoffee pie to finish – signal their strengths. This place excels at well cooked, comfortable dinners that will interest but not dominate the conversation. This isn’t a criticism: they do it very well, and a succession of modern touches stop the menu from being clichéd. A starter of poppy seed and sage polenta chips with Drambuie marmalade, for example, or a black pudding bridie with saddle of venison – a fun little pasty that you’d happily eat three of for lunch. Similarly, veggie dishes like sage and goat’s cheesecake or ‘black pudding’ Wellington will catch the eye of omnivores as well. The menu speaks of a strong sourcing policy, with less obvious fish like ling and sardines justifying their Fish2Fork restaurant status, and a nine-strong Scottish cheese board to choose from. Beneath the always-heaving Teuchters pub, the cellar dining room has rolled with its subterranean setting, going with almost cave-like décor, where russet-painted stone walls are dominated by an enthusiastic mural, and two small snugs are carved like smugglers’ caves out of the back wall. + Best of booze worlds: access to Teuchters’ drinks list and/or BYOB - Weekend drop-ins need not apply: booking is essential

Amber Restaurant The Scotch Whisky Experience, 354 Castlehill, The Royal Mile, Old Town (Map 2A: B2, 33) 0131 477 8477, amberrestaurant.co.uk | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Primarily targeted at visitors to the capital and its historic Old Town, Amber is something of a secret for locals unless they turn tourists in their own city. The name is, of course, inspired by the hues of the almost 400 different whiskies that line the walls of a classy yet casually comfortable dining room and bar. Haggis is inevitable as part of the unusual concept that is Scottish tapas. More interesting in this sampler selection of starters is inspirational cured herring, and tangy

teaks and impressive seafood dishes with a great view of the castle

salmon with matching mousse. Beef, fish, game and herbs all come from known local sources of high repute which is reflected in the taste of main courses such as guinea fowl breast stuffed with venison chorizo or sirloin steak from the Tweed Valley and nourishing pots of traditional stovies or Cullen skink. Desserts include a chocolate delice which disappears without trace very quickly and there’s a good range of Scottish cheeses, which, like pretty much everything on the menu, can be washed down with whisky to match, knowledgably selected by obliging staff. + Bespoke cheese and whisky pairing - Limited wine list

Angels with Bagpipes 343 High Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C2, 15) 0131 220 1111, angelswithbagpipes. co.uk | £14.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Given its location in tourism central it is surprising to find Angels with Bagpipes offering such a good-looking menu that avoids the usual tourist clichés. Each dish focuses on a quality central ingredient from Scotland’s bountiful larder, combining it with some interesting and creative flourishes. The standard of the food is consistently high and some dishes are excellent. A beautifully pink lamb rump is accompanied by the contrasting textures of sweetbreads, crushed white beans and crisped kale. In another dish, the complementary sweetness of scallop, vanilla and parsnip is offset by earthy pig cheek. Service is polite but could be a little sharper, while the simple, modern décor lacks a bit of character. Some pretty hefty drink mark-ups reflect the tourist-friendly location and the wine list could do with some more interesting choices in order to justify these. Overall, however, this impressive restaurant delivers serious food that’s worthy of the attention of locals as well as tourists. + The kitchen delivers some excellent dishes - Décor slightly lacks the wow factor to match the food

The Apprentice Edinburgh College, Granton Campus, 350 West Granton Road, Leith (Map 5A: A2, off) 0131 559 4030, zeroonebooking. ed-coll.ac.uk | Closed Sat–Mon | £7.50 (set lunch) / £14.95 (set dinner)

Fascinating. You’d never know it was there, tucked away on the Edinburgh College campus. But what a loss that would be, because this is a true dining adventure with rewarding prizes at each turn. The Apprentice is the publicfacing dining room of the campus’s hospitality course, where Scotland’s young cheffing stars learn the ropes. Fear not: they are very good and well supported by expert staff before earning a turn delivering the elaborate fivecourse dinner or three-course lunch. The menu offers four choices for starters, mains and puddings, two for soup, plus a palate cleanser (daiquiri sorbet since you ask). Starters might be mandolin sliced beetroot formed into ravioli with macadamia-tarragon cheese, bell pepper purée and roasted pistachios. Expecting soup to be low key? Choose between oh-so-rich lobster bisque and cream of celery and walnut soup. Carefully plated mains may include rarely seen, just-pink pan-fried goose breast with cherry and elderflower reduction, gamey but with a clear floral lift. Beautiful puddings are followed by handmade petit fours. Book now to avoid disappointment. (Note: for training purposes, diners must arrive for the set times stated. Late arrivals cannot be served.) + Superb meal and incredible value for money - Meal start times are restrictive and adhered to, so be prepared to fit in

4 HITLIST

SCOTTISH 4 The Atelier Flawless but affordable cooking in a modern setting from this new kid on the block.

4 Café St Honoré Meticulous sourcing and skilful cooking in a cosy, romantic dining room.

4 Castle Terrace Beautifully presented dishes combine creativity with unashamedly bold flavours from a restaurant still on top form

4 Dining Room @ 28 Queen Street Creatively brilliant cooking that ranks among the city’s finest.

4 Field A welcoming room serving seasonal, imaginative meals, this neighbourhood bistro is earning a city-wide reputation.

4 The Gardener’s Cottage A unique experience offering paredback, ingredient-led food in a charming setting.

4 The Kitchin Elegant, precise and resourceful – a masterclass in seasonal cooking.

4 Restaurant Mark Greenaway This chef may be showcasing his creative flair, but there’s no compromise on taste.

4 Timberyard Sophisticated destination dining in a stunning modern setting, with seasonality and sourcing at the heart of it all.

4 The Atelier 159–161 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 55) 0131 629 1344, theatelierrestaurant.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £11.90 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

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The List Eating & Drinking Guide 91

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Exposed brickwork and flickering candlelight mark out this double shop front on Morrison Street, where the atmosphere fizzes gently and family parties sit alongside romantic dinners for two. This place exudes a touch of class, where the welcome is effusive but not fawning; the pre-appetiser of bread and herb oil is fresh and delicate but not over the top; the wine list is interesting and reasonably priced, with a focus on old world varietals. Opened in the summer of 2013, The Atelier has quickly made its mark – unsurprising given the calibre of the owner-chefs Matthew and Mattias, who earned their stripes at some high-end restaurants in Edinburgh and beyond before deciding to strike out on their own. What comes out of the kitchen is created with obvious passion and an eye for food trends, but without veering towards faddy. The menu buzzes with bon bons, pickles and confits, with beautifully cooked fillets of sea bass and plump crab ravioli sitting alongside 40-day-aged steak from the Scottish Borders. Desserts shy away from the tried and tested, instead offering a blood orange and rosemary tart with lime sorbet, or caramelised white chocolate mousse with pressed pineapple. And that’s the thing about The Atelier – it’s down to earth but with an eye on the stars. + Wanting to eat everything on the menu - Not having these chefs to cook for you at home

The Atholl at The Howard The Howard Hotel, 34 Great King Street, New Town (Map 1B: A3, 12) 0131 557 3500, thehoward.com | £30 (lunch) / £30 (dinner)

Once reserved for guests at the five-star hotel, The Atholl is one of Edinburgh’s smallest restaurants seating just 14 people. There is a touch of formal grandeur about the room with its Georgian proportions and starched linen although it can’t completely avoid the rather staid feeling of hotel dining. Similarly, the short menu is high on classicism rather than creativity, featuring dishes such as grilled salmon with beurre blanc or twice-baked goat’s cheese soufflé. The five-star stand does come through in their execution, however. Fish is cooked with perfect timing; both salmon and scallops are moist with crisp

exteriors. The soufflé is evenly risen and even sticky toffee pudding has a touch of refinement in its uncommonly airy sponge. Service is surprisingly nervy although there is clearly an eagerness to please. Given the talent in the kitchen, The Atholl is capable of offering a classic, fine-dining experience. At present, though, things feel a bit too disjointed to match the five-star standard of the hotel. + Skillful, classical cooking - Lacks the five-star experience overall

Bistro Moderne 15 North West Circus Place, Stockbridge See Bistros & Brasseries

Blackwood’s Bar & Grill Nira Caledonia, 10 Gloucester Place (Map 1A: B2, 26) 0131 225 2720, niracaledonia.com | £24 (dinner)

Blackwood’s, the bar and restaurant of New Town boutique hotel Nira Caledonia, is one of just two Edinburgh venues to boast a Josper (you enunciate the first syllable like you’re clearing your throat, apparently). It’s a specialist charcoal-fired grill-oven that costs a pretty penny, and cooks meat unlike anything else. It works like a super-hot indoor barbecue, but with a door locking moisture in, resulting in a beautifully caramelised crust on the outside, but a tender, succulent interior. With such a tool at his disposal, head chef David Scott understandably chooses to cater for carnivores, a variety of Scottishsourced cuts making up the majority of the menu. Ribeye steak, dry-aged for 21 days courtesy of Highland Drovers, is a coalition of seriously seared and soft, pink flesh, arriving with crisp, salty skinny fries and an unctuous, buttery Bearnaise. Lamb cutlets – five of them – are toothsome, sweet but with a smoky tang. A side of vegetables even gets the Josper treatment, adding extra flavour. Only desserts, it seems, skip that step, content instead to rely on their own charms. + A real treat for meat lovers - Not nearly as much choice for vegetarians

Blonde 75 St Leonard’s Street, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

4 Café St Honoré 34 North West Thistle Street Lane, New Town (Map 1A: C4, 77) 0131 226 2211, cafesthonore.com | £15.50 (set lunch) / £18 (set dinner)

Barring the name and the elegant Parisian bistro-style interior, it’s been a few years since Café St Honoré has had much to do with French food. With chef Neil Forbes at the helm the restaurant has turned its focus to using the best of seasonal Scottish produce – even name-checking each and every supplier on the daily menu – and has earned awards from the Sustainable Restaurant Association for its efforts. This is good-for-the-soul bistro food, where wild rabbit is turned into a hearty terrine, line-caught mackerel is paired with the clean taste of fennel, and justpicked vegetables are transformed into imaginative vegetarian dishes. It’s all about what’s available right now. If the main courses might seem to lean towards the worthy, desserts are anything but, and a dark chocolate and almond pithivier served with Artisan Roast coffee custard will have you dreaming of licking the plate and begging Chef for the recipe. All this plus a competitively priced menu of Café Classics, daily gluten- and dairy-free menus, occasional Slow Food events and heartwarming dedication to its suppliers – it’s no surprise that Café St Honoré continues to attract a diverse loyal following that makes it one of the most atmospheric restaurants in town. + The outstanding produce is king - The downstairs seating is no match for the main dining room

4 Castle Terrace 33/35 Castle Terrace, West End (Map 4: D1, 27) 0131 229 1222, castleterracerestaurant.com | No Kids (under 5) | Closed Sun/Mon | £28.50 (set lunch) / £46 (dinner)

Delivering the full fine-dining experience beloved of Michelin inspectors, Castle Terrace continues to justify its reputation as one of the city’s finest restaurants. Discreetly expensive décor is reminiscent of a luxury spa, although a few tables are surprisingly close together. Local, artisan sourcing extends past the food and into the attractive sugar bowls, canapé plates and bread baskets. The warmly earthy sourdough loaf that comes in the latter has a refined

rusticity mirrored in much of what is to follow. An appetiser of ‘baked potato with cheese’ shows some playful creativity in the kitchen. Subsequent dishes are elegant and beautifully presented without being afraid of using ingredients outside the classic luxury canon. Spelt risotto makes frequent appearances; one of chef Dominic Jack’s signature dishes combines it with ox tongue and confit veal heart, creating an engagingly delicious mixture of bold flavours and textures. A dish of sea kale, accompanied by poached egg and black truffle, is a plate of wonderful savoury, umami richness. Be warned: wine markups are eyebrow raising and will add substantially to the bill. However, the talented sommelier has assembled a great wine list, so don’t scrimp. + Beautiful dishes that are both creatively bold and refined - Be prepared to spend big for wine of similar quality

Channings Restaurant 12–16 South Learmonth Gardens, Comely Bank, West End (Map 4: A1, off) 0131 315 2226, channings.co.uk | £18.50 (set dinner)

It’s not a venue you’d just stumble across: in the basement of a hotel in a residential area of Stockbridge, Channings is part of a mini Edinburgh hotel group. It’s quite a sprawling space inside, with a lovely outdoor terrace where dinner is served on fine evenings in summer, and a large bar serving a full pub/bistro menu. The restaurant has recently undergone a full change of management with a new head chef, and plans for a menu that changes every day or two. The approach remains a safe one, however: a smoked salmon starter with a small non sequitur of potato salad; an excellent bit of Borders beef; a spot-on chocolate fondant pudding. While it’s a well-cooked and moderately priced menu, it lacks some finesse – bread cut a while ago, some humdrum accompaniments. The friendly but formal service sits alongside heavy fabrics and some tired décor to make the whole feel a little dated. The bar has a more welcoming vibe, and a good selection of whisky, including a recreation of the dram Ernest Shackleton, who lived here for a time, took on his adventures. + Good sourcing of Scottish meats and cheeses - Hasn’t shaken off the rather awkward atmosphere of a hotel dining room

Daft Jamie’s

PHOTO: CHRIS MACKENZIE PHOTOGRAPHY

5 Hunter Square, Old Town (Map 2A: D3, 83) 0131 225 5428, daftjamies.com | Closed Sun | £12 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Forth Floor Restaurant (page 94): classical cooking with spectacular views (and food) 92 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Daft Jamie met his, likely gruesome, end at the hands of the infamous Burke and Hare, apparently in the vicinity of this trendy new establishment, opened in early 2014. Thankfully the meat sourcing policy of Daft Jamie’s is far more ethical, and there is a real focus on good quality Scottish produce, mixed with a passionate desire to deliver simple, quality dishes that will appeal to all. Haggis, neeps and tatties is a surprisingly light way to begin, followed by beef, chicken, sea bream or Ayrshire pork belly – all offering hearty flavours, and leading to full bellies. As well as food, Daft Jamie’s has a passion for whisky, with a focus particularly on lost malts from closed and forgotten distilleries. The Silent Stills Dining Room may be booked on request, alongside the whisky tasting menu where food and spirit merge – all dishes being cooked with and served with the matching malt. Service is friendly and professional, and the surroundings are functional, an eerie

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Located in the heart of Edinburgh's New Town, The Magnum Bar & Restaurant prides itself on combining Scotland's best local ingredients with traditional flavours, providing warm and welcoming surroundings, an appetising lunch and dinner menu offering Scottish dishes as well featuring fresh seasonal game and seafood. Opening Times: Mon to Thurs 12pm - 12am Fri and Sat 12pm - 1am Sunday 12.30pm - 11pm

Voted 10th most popular hidden gems in the UK by toptable.co.uk

Food served: 12pm - 3pm & 5.30 pm - 10pm

Edinburgh Capital Silver Award 2009

1 Albany Street, Edinburgh, EH1 3PY 0131 557 4366

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V E G E TA R I A N â&#x20AC;&#x153;Apart from the food, the atmosphere, the service and the approachable flexibility of the menu, the other commendable thing about David Bann is that his prices represent good value. â&#x20AC;? Joanna Blythman, The Herald

TABLE E SERVICE FROM 5P PM

56-58 St Maryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Street, Edinburgh (off The Royal Mile and The Cowgate) www.davidbann.com

0131 556 5888

HENDERSONSOFEDINBURGH.CO.UK

Eating and Drinking Open 7 Days from 11am The List Eating & Drinking Guide 93

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TABLE Talk

prevalence of the colour red reminding customers of the fate of the eponymous innocent. + Lemon posset with shortbread, pomegranate and popping candy - Slightly unfinished feel to the surroundings

David Bann 56-58 St Mary’s Street, Old Town See Bistros & Brasseries

4 The Dining Room

RICHARD TAYLOR ON BEER Unless you flurry back through time to the late 19th century, there’s never been a better time to be a beer drinker in Edinburgh and Glasgow than right now, as brewery numbers are on the rise again. One of the sheer joys of the moment is variety – there are just so many beers out there to try. This dizzying and incessant choice certainly helps fuel interest – but there’s a vital third side to this beery triangle: information. Tap takeovers in bars, pairing evenings in restaurants, better beer lists and, most importantly, approachable, knowledgable staff, all serve to grow momentum just as much as surging brewery output. With all this at hand, it’s an easy (and welcome) task to park yourself somewhere cosy and enjoy Scotland’s resurgent brewing industry. The great thing about our two cities is the diversity of establishments in which to apply that beery handbrake. Established players such as Blackfriars and Inn Deep in Glasgow, and the Bow Bar and Hanging Bat in Edinburgh, are being joined weekly by timehonoured pubs ‘craftifying’ – stripping back and relaunching, for better or worse. Yet when you’re there, what to try? Look for Glasgow’s Drygate project to make a splash, as the eastern end of the city centre gains another brewery, courtesy of the collaboration between Tennent’s and Williams Bros. In Edinburgh – or rather, Leith – Pilot Beer are set for a breakout year, plus expect big things from Livingston’s Alechemy Brewery; they added a dozen bottled beers to their lineup last year. And just outside the city, Forth Bridge Brewing have truly enormous plans for South Queensferry. Q Richard Taylor is an Edinburghbased beer writer. thebeercast. com

94 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society, 28 Queen Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 83) 0131 220 2044, thediningroomedinburgh. co.uk | No Kids | Closed Sun | £35 (threecourse lunch) / £35 (three-course dinner)

With fine food, personable service and an impressive setting, The Dining Room at 28 Queen Street sits comfortably among the stars of Edinburgh’s fine-dining scene. Chef Jason Freeman’s dishes combine excellent ingredients, classic technique and creative twists that are intelligent rather than cleverly cheffy. Venison tartare contains beetroot ketchup as a harmonious contrast to the rich meat, while a Vadouvan curry veloute is sensitively spiced, providing interest without overpowering the crisp skate wing it accompanies. Tasteful modern décor counters the circular room’s grandiose Georgian dimensions, creating a relaxed rather than intimidating atmosphere. Service may be less attentive than that found in Michelin-starred places but it is also less stiffly intrusive. The wine list features some interesting bottles, more reasonably marked up than at restaurants of similar stature. The optional whisky/ wine flights matched to each course offer better value. Whiskies from the adjoining Scotch Malt Whisky Society are described passionately and informatively, with the option to enjoy a drink before or after in the members’ bar. + Simply some of the finest food in Edinburgh - Bar upstairs is great for whisky but not for other drinks

The Dogs 110 Hanover Street, New Town See Bistros & Brasseries

EH15 The Club, 24 Milton Road East, Portobello (Map 5A: E1, off) 0131 344 7344, theclubedinburgh.com | £5.50 (lunch) / £14.95 (set dinner)

Everyone has to start somewhere, and Edinburgh College is where some of tomorrow’s budding chefs cut their teeth. The students on the Hospitality programme have a professional kitchen as their training ground, where real-live customers pay for lunch and dinner and where the students are assessed on their participation and abilities both in the kitchen and front of house. But don’t be fooled – this in no way resembles school dinners. The menu changes on a sixweekly rotation, and might feature the likes of haddock and chips with tartare sauce (no ketchup in sight) and risotto primavera. There are soups and salads for starters, and dessert might be a decadent chocolate brownie or a Bakewell tart with Chantilly cream. A three-course lunch will set you back a mere £7.50, and there’s also a licensed bar. Portion sizes may be a little inconsistent, the wait for food can take a while and staff can appear nervous, but that’s all part of the charm. The incredibly low prices and views out over Arthurs Seat from the third-floor restaurant more than make up for it. And you never know, you might be cooked for by a future star. + Rock-bottom prices for praise-worthy cooking - Not for when you’re in a hurry

Café St Honoré (page 92): a celebration of Scottish seasonal produce

4 Field 41 West Nicolson Street, Southside (Map 2A: D5, 61) 0131 667 7010, fieldrestaurant. co.uk | Closed Mon | £11.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Some addresses seem to doom a restaurant from the get-go; others attract those who just get what it is that people want for a meal out. Having successfully taken the reins from long-loved Home Bistro a year ago, Field is the latter. There’s nothing unique about its uni-ville location, or the tiny room’s fresh, low-key décor: the winning formula is a genuine welcome from Richard and Rachel Conway, and excellently priced food and wine that puts a smile on your face for the whole evening. Chef Gordon Craig’s background includes Gleneagles and the Plumed Horse, where he and Richard met, and it shows: it’s not every neighbourhood bistro that includes a cool, super-smooth Jerusalem artichoke cheesecake (that, admittedly, could taste more vividly of artichoke) among its starters. More conventional mains have value-adding accompaniments: a chunky ham hock rissole with ideally cooked sea bream, and rich chorizo cabbage with the sticky ponzu pork belly. The flair reappears for pudding, where ice-cream enthusiasts will be in heaven, for each dessert comes with a different flavour: a dense, rich honey cake, for example, with citrus panacotta and smooth parsnip ice-cream. + Wine that’s taken as personally and priced as fairly as the food - Too wee to be a safe bet for big groups

First Coast 97–101 Dalry Road, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

Forth Floor Restaurant Harvey Nichols, 30–34 St Andrew Square, New Town (Map 1B: B5, 44) 0131 524 8350, harveynichols.com | £25 (set lunch) / £32 (dinner)

The top floor of Harvey Nichols boasts perhaps the most spectacular setting for dining in the city. The vista stretches over the Forth to Fife on one side, offering an unimpeded perspective of the Castle on the other, with St Andrew Square and George Street immediately below. Views from the table are matched by those on it: presentation of a starter of rabbit loin, crisp confit leg and rhubarb is precise and elegant, as are Shetland scallops with a seafood boudin. Classical techniques and influences marry with innovation, while provenance and sustainability play a big part in proceedings too. Lamb from Inverurie, Orkney beef and Ayrshire pork is butchered on-site, and executive chef

Stuart Muir ensures nothing is wasted. Forget nose-to-tail eating, a dish of trotters stuffed with honey roast ham and sweetcorn comes served with crispy ears, taking you from head to toe in one plate. Dessert options are limited but follow in a similar vein: a yoghurt micro-sponge, served with rhubarb three ways, might divide opinion, but a caramel-laden lemon thyme and chocolate crémeux strikes the perfect balance between old and new. (See also Table Talk, page 78.) + A feast for the eyes wherever you look - The feeling that those eating in the adjoining brasserie are staring at you as much as the views

4 The Gardener’s Cottage 1 Royal Terrace Gardens, New Town (Map 5B: A6, 26) 0131 558 1221, thegardenerscottage.co | £23 (lunch) / £30 (set dinner)

Critically lauded Gardener’s Cottage has won acclaim for its back-to-basics approach of communal tables and pared-down, ingredients-led cooking. A five-course set dinner menu changes daily (you can find the current day’s on Twitter or Facebook) and is based around whatever ingredients are available. Some vegetables and herbs are grown in the restaurant’s garden while the remainder come from East Lothian, meaning the food is genuinely seasonal and local. Meat is also well sourced from the likes of Peelham Farm in Berwick and only sustainable fish, landed in Scotland, are used. Simple dishes showcase the quality of each individual ingredient, especially the vegetables, such as the purple sprouting broccoli that accompanies squid and lardo. There are a few stumbles with under-seasoned soup and overcooked squid but there are also some flashes of creative genius in the likes of smoked pumpkin tea cakes. The décor is simple but cosy, adding to the feeling of communality. + An alternative dining experience offering high-quality local, seasonal food - Communal tables means its not the place for a tête-à-tête

Ghillie Dhu 2 Rutland Place, West End See Bars & Pubs

The Grain Store 30 Victoria Street, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 24) 0131 225 7635, grainstore-restaurant. co.uk | £12.50 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

Given its proximity to Edinburgh’s main tourist route, the Grain Store could easily be the sole domain of Royal Mile ramblers and stuffy club

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THE FORTH FLOOR The best contemporary eating and drinking in Edinburgh, with unparalleled views of the city skyline. Book now to dine at the Forth Floor Restaurant, Bar or Brasserie by calling 0131 524 8350 or by visiting harveynichols.com

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ties, but despite what the Old Town address might suggest, the menu here is far from unadventurous: chef Carlo Coxon manages to imbue the familiar with a sense of individuality. A starter of scallops and cauliflower, for instance, brings a hint of the Indian subcontinent, the florets delicately deep-fried pakorastyle, a smudge of purée coupled with a smattering of curry oil for a delightfully subtle smokiness. Elsewhere, stalwarts like Perthshire venison saddle and wood pigeon are inch-perfect, never nearing humdrum thanks to some inventive and inspired cooking. Desserts are perhaps the most traditional of all the dishes on offer – Bakewell tart and apple tart tatin, for instance – but they too are excellent, enjoyable in their relative simplicity. A succession of vaulted stone rooms and wooden floors evoke the Edinburgh of Raeburn, Scott and Stevenson, although the sense of historical intimacy is muted a little by a few tired fixtures and fittings. + Terrific bread made fresh each day - Cheap pub-style menus and cutlery

Hellers Kitchen 15 Salisbury Place, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

Henderson’s Vegetarian Restaurant 94 Hanover Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 85) 0131 225 2131, hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk | Closed Sun | £9.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Established over half a century ago and now in its third generation of family ownership, Henderson’s is an Edinburgh institution. Tucked away down a small flight of stairs, its spacious, basement rooms are popular with ladies who lunch and those looking for sanctuary from the noisy city outside. As Edinburgh’s original vegetarian restaurant, Henderson’s has ridden the changes by staying true to its roots and retaining its unique, quirky character while constantly evolving. The latest stage in this evolution is the introduction of table service after 5pm. The food here is hearty, wholesome and satisfying, and the portions are big, with stalwarts such as veggie and vegan lasagne, burgers, haggis, frittata, fritters, risotto, curries and stews augmented by a huge array of colourful salads, home-baked cakes and interesting daily specials. The ingredients are locally sourced, seasonal and organic wherever possible and there’s a good choice of organic and biodynamic beers, wines, spirits and soft drinks available. Eating at Henderson’s is an uplifting experience; one in which you can get your five a day and a rejuvenating break from the rat race in one welcoming sitting. + Hearty, wholesome and satisfying vegetarian food at an Edinburgh institution - The idea of vegetarian food may put off confirmed carnivores – but it shouldn’t

Hewat’s Restaurant 19–21b Causewayside, Southside (Map 3C: D3, 22) 0131 466 6660, hewatsrestaurant.co.uk | Closed Sun | £23 (dinner)

In an opulently furnished room with chandeliers and dark-red walls, husband and wife team Margaret and Richard Hewat have been welcoming customers to their neighbourhood bistro for almost a decade. Their friendly service and uncomplicated home cooking is a recipe for success, as loyal customers return and social media twitters about the cracking deals to be found here. Scottish produce is at the forefront, including the likes of Cullen skink, Stornoway black pudding and Aberdeen Angus 96 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

EH15 (page 94): praise-worthy cooking from the chefs of tomorrow at Edinburgh College

steak, and the fish is well sourced and skilfully cooked. Eschewing food trends and modern cheffy touches, the menu packs in bistro favourites. A medley of sea bass, salmon, prawn and scallop with crushed potatoes and broccoli is like a deconstructed fish pie, strong on flavour and with beautifully cooked fish, but perhaps lacking a little finesse. Vegetarians are given slim pickings, but a tasty wild mushroom, baby leek and brie tart is made with crisp pastry. Desserts are of the sticky toffee and crème brûlée stable and are comforting if not likely to set the world on fire. Overall this is a good Southside option for a casual catchup with friends over some well-cooked bistro food. + Beautifully cooked fish - Desserts lack the wow factor

Howies 10–14 Victoria Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C3, 23) 0131 225 1721, howies.uk.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Back under the watchful eye of founder David Howie Scott for long enough for it to feel like it was ever thus, the relaxed atmosphere, reasonable pricing and easy-going cooking so familiar of the Howies trio (two in Edinburgh, a third in Aberdeen) keep it busy throughout the week. The relatively traditional menu features classic dishes like haggis and Cullen skink, with Scottish supplier names peppered throughout indicating a sourcing policy they’re proud to highlight. Presentation could sometimes be improved: a starter of partridge breasts with black pudding is well cooked but the breasts appear very small against a pile of leaves, and further down the line vanilla panacotta is flatly flavoured, with a rather measly side portion of sliced poached pear. These complaints are isolated though: generously sized main dishes might include the riot of flavour that is smoked hake with chorizo and roast leeks; homemade basil sorbet is sublime, and vegetarians get a couple of thoughtful choices in each course. The restaurant is divided into two connected sections making it big enough for groups without feeling like an empty hall if not full, and is scheduled for a full makeover in spring 2014. + Great value set lunch menu - Some draught beer would be welcome

Howies at Waterloo 29 Waterloo Place, New Town (Map 1B: C6, 42) 0131 556 5766, howies.uk.com |

£9.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

4 The Kitchin

The Howies brand is firmly established within Edinburgh and is known for delivering reliable mid-priced Scottish bistro food. It may not set the culinary heather alight but the likes of braised beef shoulder, game terrine and banoffee pie are cooked with skill and served by pleasant staff in impressive surroundings. Indeed, following a freshening of the décor in 2013, the impressive Georgian main room rather steals the show with its soaring ceilings and spacious feel. Daily casseroles are suitably rich and warming, as is a creamy Cullen skink, although desserts sometimes miss the mark: a chocolate tart made with milk chocolate lacks the flavour intensity and endorphin hit of the real thing. Overall, Howies remains a dependable choice for a goodvalue meal, especially the two-course lunch deal. The BYOB option in the evening is an added attraction, although the wine list is reasonably priced and well put together. + Comfortable, reliable and good value - Not wildly original

78 Commercial Quay, Leith (Map 5A: C1, 6) 0131 555 1755, thekitchin.com | Closed Sun/Mon | £28.50 (set lunch) / £51 (dinner)

Iglu 2b Jamaica Street, New Town (Map 1A: C3, 27) 0131 476 5333, theiglu.com | Closed Mon | £13 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Possibly Edinburgh’s best intentioned restaurant, Iglu won the title of Scottish Sustainable Restaurant of the Year 2014 and has operated as a social enterprise since 2013. Currently 90 per cent of fresh ingredients are Scottish and organic, with the aim being to raise this to 100 per cent. In addition to charitable donations, profits are used to fund training and courses in sustainable cooking. The quality of the ingredients comes through in mini haggis sausages from Whitmuir Farm and the rich, meaty base of a cottage pie. Changes in the kitchen around the time of going to press should see more consistency in quality and output that matches the feel-good vibe. The pared-back décor has mismatched chairs and bare stone walls offset by bright, primary colours creates a pleasantly easy-going atmosphere. Add in Black Isle beers, Demijohn liqueurs and a reasonable wine list and you have a pretty good bar. If the cooking can be matched to the quality of intentions and ingredients, then Iglu could be a very fine restaurant. (See also Table Talk page 60.) + Impeccable ethical credentials - Food has been up and down in the past

Treasure maps tend to be jealously guarded, prised from cold, dead hands or relinquished reluctantly at gunpoint. The Kitchin, however, does things differently, presenting each diner with a wee scroll depicting Scotland in relief, X marking the spots where the menu’s riches are sourced. Along with the accompanying crudités – field-fresh nibbles presented like a potted plant straight from the nursery – it provides the first hint at chef patron Tom Kitchin’s now familiar mantra ‘from nature to plate’. The proof, as they say, is in the eating and it’s a concept that stands up to the test. From individual dishes to grander themes, such as a tasting menu composed entirely of game which evolves with the hunt, ideas are firmly rooted in uber-seasonality, Kitchin at pains to ensure the first batch is on the table immediately, be it snipe or asparagus. Hogget – a cache of rump, liver, sweetbreads, heart and tongue – served with pearl barley and spring pea risotto, tastes like springtime on the farm, verdant green and judiciously canny. Sea buckthorn, foraged at Gullane, is combined with chocolate to create a potently rich, intense gateau and a wonderfully tart sorbet. Fun without being frivolous, passionate but not pofaced, this is edible treasure hunting at its most rewarding. + Home to a chef at the very top of his game - Its popularity makes it difficult for an impromptu visit

Kyloe Restaurant & Grill The Rutland Hotel, 1–3 Rutland Street, West End (Map 4: B1, 19) 0131 229 3402, kyloerestaurant.com | £12 (set lunch) / £29 (dinner)

With a cow outside and a name that means cattle in Scots, it is easy to guess the focus of Kyloe’s menu. Meat. In particular steaks, with eight different cuts all aged a minimum of 28 days on the bone. With decent sides, such as dripping-fried chips, and excellent quality meat, they are certainly worthy of attention. This is no one-trick pony, however, with some other impressive meat and seafood dishes on offer, plus a well-chosen wine list. Braised pork cheeks with kohlrabi and apple are surprisingly subtle and delicate.

SCOTTISH

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Venison loin sits pinkly among a very concentrated reduction, the richness of the sauce making up for what initially appears a rather dainty sized portion. Desserts are a bit of an afterthought and easily skipped; you would need a monstrous appetite to really want one anyway. The mirrored pillars, cowhide chairs and cow-themed Warhol pastiches add a note of high kitsch to the dĂŠcor. Like the food, some people will love it and others may find it a bit full-on. + Delivering top-quality steaks in a setting thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s full of character - Some people might find it all a bit much

The Magnum Restaurant & Bar 1 Albany Street, New Town (Map 1B: B4, 59) 0131 557 4366, themagnum. webeden.co.uk | ÂŁ12.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ25 (dinner)

Largely successful in straddling the line between pub and restaurant, the Magnum offers both bar food and a more expensive restaurant menu. The central horseshoe bar divides the interior, with the restaurant area falling naturally on one side and the bar area on the other. It is possible to eat from both menus on either side. Pitched at both an after-work crowd and local regulars, pub staples such as fish and chips and burgers are permanent fixtures. Similarly, the fancier restaurant dishes generally stick to solid renditions of Scottish bistro classics. A substantial portion of duck Wellington is well executed, the pastry fully cooked while the duck breast remains pink inside. A wild mushroom lasagne could use a bit more mushroom to raise it above the level of pleasant but unexceptional. Desserts are stronger, in particular the ice-cream, an unusual malt flavour providing a savoury counterpart to its accompanying orange tart. Given the name, it is a shame the wine list doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t feature more interesting options by the glass, although hopefully plans to offer some different wines each month will address this. + Good mix between pub and restaurant food - Wine list could be stronger

McKirdyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Steakhouse 151 Morrison Street, West End (Map 4: B2, 53) 0131 229 6660, mckirdyssteakhouse.co.uk | ÂŁ23 (dinner)

In recent years thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been a resurgence in Edinburgh restaurants specialising in all things bovine, each eager to give due deference to the art of the steak. If those newcomers could be considered the nouveau riche â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all ostentatious dining rooms and shameless name-dropping â&#x20AC;&#x201C; then McKirdyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s represents the old money; slightly shabby and unfashionable, but with an unquestionable pedigree, nobility of the red-blooded kind. Owned and directly operated by a family of butchers, their lineage is every bit as traceable as the meat they serve, stretching all the way back to 1895. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s something quietly reassuring too about the fact the jovial server taking your order is the same person who selected, prepared and butchered it. When the meat comes, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no fanfare or fancy presentation, just good-quality cuts, expertly cooked. A juicy ribeye steak comes with chunky chips suited to mopping up the liquid leftovers, while the mixed grill is a mammoth undertaking even for the most committed carnivore, loaded with rump steak, chicken, lamb cutlets and McKirdyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very own â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and very tasty â&#x20AC;&#x201C; sausages, haggis and black pudding. + Unpretentious, friendly atmosphere - Interior could use a bit of a spruce up

Michael Neave Kitchen & Whisky Bar 21 Old Fishmarket Close, Old Town (Map 2A: D3, 82) 0131 226 4747, michaelneave. com | Closed Sun/Mon | ÂŁ12.95. (set lunch) / ÂŁ23 (dinner)

At first glance, it would be easy to dismiss Michael Neave as just another headstrong young buck, intent on convincing the world of his unrecognised genius. Yet heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the first to acknowledge that he is far from the finished article, the decision to strike out on his own in 2012 aged just 21 based not on ego, but rather a preference for making mistakes on his own terms instead of cookingby-numbers in someone elseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kitchen. Having served his apprenticeship at the Bonham, heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s certainly no rookie, demonstrating a flair for technique and flavour. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautifully cooked venison saddle with a marmalade and Glenmorangie Nectar Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;or jus, and an equally good roasted duck breast with black pudding gnocchi. The balance and finesse of the dishes isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t quite there yet â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the former overwhelmed by a surfeit of chestnut purĂŠe, the latter served with an untidy heap of braised red cabbage â&#x20AC;&#x201C; while the direction of the dishes oscillates between high-end bistro and fine dining. These, however, are inconsistencies that can be smoothed out with experience, which this promising young chef is gaining by the day. + The set menus (especially the daily changing lunch) offer tremendous value - Greasy-spoon-style salt and pepper shakers on the tables

TIP/,67 FOR SET LUNCH DEALS

N NB P O N N NO M 68 F - M N N C F F

â&#x20AC;˘ The Apprentice The training restaurant of Edinburgh College proves fertile ground for a great lunch deal 91 â&#x20AC;˘ The Atelier For under ÂŁ12 the set lunch is phenomenal value for this level of cooking 91 â&#x20AC;˘ Fishers in the City Seasonal offerings abound in this city-centre bargain lunch 71 â&#x20AC;˘ Kalpna A Southside institution offering copious curries in its buffet lunch 75 â&#x20AC;˘ Michael Neave Kitchen & Whisky Bar Lunch is a great intro to this young chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bold cooking 97 â&#x20AC;˘ Mussel Inn Muscling in to the lunchtime deals on Rose Street 71 â&#x20AC;˘ Timberyard Sample Ben Radfordâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inventive modern cooking for a great price 100 â&#x20AC;˘ Wedgwood the Restaurant Stunning value for this quality of cuisine on the Royal Mile 100

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Monteiths 57–61 High Street, Old Town See Bistros & Brasseries

+ Luxury food in luxurious surroundings - Those used to more casual dining

might find those surroundings a little intimidating

No. 11 Brunswick Street 11 Brunswick Street See Bistros & Brasseries

One Square 1 Festival Square, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

Number One 1 Princes Street, New Town (Map 2A: D1, 2) 0131 557 6727, restaurantnumberone. com | £68/ £75 (set dinner)

Having held a Michelin star for over a decade, Number One is a go-to for Edinburgh diners desperate for the Michelin experience. Spotless tablecloths, weighty cutlery and trolleys groaning with breads and cheeses all play to the fine-dining formula, and the interior – plush banquettes and red lacquered walls (imported from Hong Kong no less) – adds to the sense of occasion. Staff read the clientele well, adjusting to meet expectations accordingly, and the food is carefully crafted. Borders lamb is both fragrant and earthy, smoked aubergine and black olive crumb serving as an interesting counterpoint to the sweet infusion of apricot and rose. Likewise, fillet of Scotch beef with cavolo nero and Barwheys is sumptuously comforting, although it could do with a little more tarragon mustard to aid the balance of the dish. Those with a sweet tooth are particularly well rewarded: desserts such as a smile-inducing caramel and praline mousse come sandwiched between predessert and petits fours. Canapés and an amuse-bouche preceding the starters only add to the ceremony. It comes at a price, however, meaning a visit is either a saved-for treat, or for those still fortunate enough to call on expense accounts.

The Outsider 15/16 George IV Bridge, Old Town See Bistros & Brasseries

Plumed Horse 50–54 Henderson Street, Leith (Map 5A: C3, 30) 0131 554 5556, plumedhorse. co.uk | No Kids (under 8) | Closed Sun/ Mon | £24 (set lunch) / £55 (set dinner)

To begin at the end – and a mighty fine end indeed, distinguished by desserts as delightful on the eye as the spoon. A vibrant gingerbread mousse contrasts with sweet, crunchy ‘rocks’ of honeycomb, a thing of true beauty. Then nougat parfait, delicately sandwiched between crunchy layers, accompanied by a deeply satisfying winter fruit salad. Of course, such elegant desserts are quite in keeping with the style of this U-shaped room in deepest Leith. The rest of the menu will not disappoint those in search of fine-ish dining with a degree of amuse-bouched, petit-foured splendour. But despite its pedigree, the Plumed Horse is no fussy thoroughbred. Sautéed calves’ liver, unpink, meets thick, salty pancetta on horseradish mash. Roast breast of guinea fowl has mash too, with an exuberant plate-smear of carrot purée. You get the picture. Tony Borthwick’s food still looks, and tastes, like, well, food. The wine keeps pace with this approach: thorough and full of reward. Which brings us to the end, and those desserts . . . [Not recently visited.]

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98 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Caledonian Hotel, Princes Street, West End See French

Purslane 33a St Stephen Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 21) 0131 226 3500, purslanerestaurant.co.uk | No Kids (under 6) | Closed Mon | £12.95 (set lunch) / £22.95 (set dinner)

Paul Gunning bought Purslane’s premises almost on a whim, and his bet on the teeny restaurant has paid off. Packed out even midweek in winter, the combination of unfussy but interesting, well-sourced and presented food appeals to couples and small parties looking for a step up from a jeans-and-t-shirt neighbourhood restaurant. Despite Gunning’s background in Michelinstarred kitchens his cooking isn’t especially ‘cheffy’: a tiny lamb pie makes a deeply flavoured starter with beautiful pastry (though the kofta-like meat is a little dry) and sharp, startlingly passion fruity sorbet steals the show alongside white chocolate mousse. He mixes quintessentially British dishes like rice pudding (with prunes, armagnac and candied rosemary) with cosmopolitan touches from his culinary travels: a starter of arancini, say, or his popular crispy barbecued chicken with shredded veg and noodle salad. The small space means tables are necessarily close and well suited to couples, making it feel a little like Valentine’s day, but larger groups of six to eight do book up on weekends. It’s not ideal for children for the same space reasons, but this helps create an enjoyably grown-up atmosphere, reinforced by on-the-ball service. + Feeling like you’ve found a sophisticated little secret - Though the loos aren’t as classy

Restaurant at the Bonham 35 Drumsheugh Gardens, West End (Map 4: A1, 1) 0131 226 6050, thebonham.com | £12.50 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

This intimate wood-panelled dining room belies its status as a hotel restaurant. No soulless design vacuum, the Restaurant at the Bonham is instead a warm, inviting refuge that’s often at capacity, even on a snowy Tuesday night, which does much for the atmosphere as couples of all ages dine beside solo business travellers and chatty groups. The food lives up to the surroundings, thankfully, as quality Scottish seasonal produce is cooked with skill and care, and given some creative flourishes by head chef Maciej Szymik. A starter of delicate smoked haddock is paired with cauliflower, raisins and curry foam to great effect, while an oldfashioned crab cocktail gets a new lease of life with some smoked tomato and confit lettuce, only slightly let down by being served ice-cold from the fridge. Beautifully cooked pork is matched with traditional flavours of cider and apple, and roast cod fillet benefits from its accompanying smoky aubergine purée, a scattering of mussels adding sweetness. Desserts are playful: think pineapple ‘carpaccio’ with mango sorbet and Malibu foam, or rhubarb with gingerbread and mouth-tingling honeycomb. Genial staff and some wallet-friendly offers seal the deal, ensuring regular custom from locals as well as hotel guests. + Quality Scottish ingredients, skillfully prepared - Service can be overly brisk – but if your meal ends early you can always retire to the bar for a digestif

film set of a high-budget period drama. Actually, not many films would have the budget for 400-year-old props – you can play ‘spot the date’ on paintings by artists dead since the late 1600s, and the leather that lines the walls of one of three aperitif/ digestif drawing rooms is older than the 17th-century section of the house. The dining room (named in honour of the original owner’s introduction of rhubarb to the country) is sumptuously russettoned, the baroque theme extended down to black table candles. John McMahon has been head chef for six years, and the food doesn’t miss a beat. Cooking is understated compared to the surroundings, so first impressions of dishes can be a bit flat when pricing is considered, but this fades on tasting. Butter-poached guinea fowl, for example, is expertly tender, with bold Moroccan flavours in the accompanying couscous. Scallops are as sustainably sourced as possible – a theme throughout – with a clever combination of rich Jerusalem artichoke purée, chestnuts and clementine. It’s a place for Valentine’s liaisons, proposals, milestone birthdays and expense accounts – but families also come, for afternoon tea that’s merely treat-priced, and good-value Sunday lunch. + Enjoy the gardens all year round from the balcony, terrace or gothic tea house - Friendly and professional service, but in places a bit vague on the food details

Rocca@Holyrood Macdonald Holyrood Hotel, 81 Holyrood Road, Old Town See Italian

4 Restaurant Mark Greenaway

The Scottish Café and Restaurant

69 North Castle Street, New Town (Map 1A: B4, 41) 0131 2261155, markgreenaway.com | Closed Sun/Mon | £16.50 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

National Gallery of Scotland, The Mound, New Town (Map 2A: B1, 1) 0131 226 6524, thescottishcafeandrestaurant.com | £16.95 (set lunch)

Most fine dining can be a bit like being in church – all bowed heads and reverential hushed tones in a music-free zone – and while there’s clearly a worship of food going on here, there’s also an element of playfulness that’s perhaps lacking in some other restaurants who can take themselves too seriously at times. Here at Mark Greenaway’s eponymous dining room the tablecloths are white, the décor tones are muted, the staff are attentive – but there’s also light jazz playing on the stereo and a sense of fun and innovation at work on a menu that is at once a guide through some of Scotland’s greatest produce and a masterclass in the art of food presentation. A signature starter of Loch Fyne ‘cannelloni’ is served with a glass bowl of smoked cauliflower custard, the smoky fragrance billowing out theatrically when opened. The produce shines in ‘a tasting of Borders lamb’ and 11-hour slow-roast belly pork, while artistry is at the forefront of a roasted fillet of hake served with lobster tortelloni, purple mash and a pour-your-own ginger and spring onion broth. And that’s without mentioning the desserts, which are worth a trip in themselves. Come here for a special occasion and be wowed by the skill, precision and confidence in Mark Greenaway’s cooking – it’s a joy. + Fun fine-dining that’s serious about produce - Vegetarians are given slim pickings

Stopping for lunch here gives almost as much insight into Scotland’s food culture as the adjoining galleries give into its fine art. Awarded a rare three stars by the Sustainable Restaurant Association, this focus shines through the restaurant menu (for more on the café, see page 21). A typical winter gratin uses Clava brie from Connage Highland Dairy, Carroll’s heritage potatoes and local leeks, and is served with seasonal Jerusalem artichokes. The only criticism is that some will find the salt shaker too liberally employed. A starter of oysters with sea purslane vinaigrette and Scottish rapeseed oil exemplifies the restaurant’s strapline ‘fresh, simple, Scottish’. Even the drinks list plays this tune, listing Borders apple juice, East Lothian beer and Orcadian fruit wine. The décor is also fresh and simple, a wall of windows giving a view over Princes Street Gardens that’s charming in sunlight and cosy in rain. Thoughtful service starts with seating: while very pram-friendly, they attempt to give childfree groups some space by placing them on the mezzanine. Staff are used to a queue stretching out the gallery doors (booking’s a good idea) which makes it unsurprising that there’s occasionally a bit of a wait for service. + Enjoying seasonal produce from their kitchen garden - Puddings taste great, but choice is limited on the set menu

Restaurant Martin Wishart

The Scran & Scallie

54 The Shore, Leith See French

1 Comely Bank Road, Stockbridge See Bars & Pubs

Rhubarb

The Skerries

Prestonfield House, Priestfield Road, Southside (Map 3C: E5, off) 0131 225 1333, prestonfield.com | £18 (set lunch) / £40 (dinner)

Dunstane House Hotel, 4 West Coates, West End (Map 4: A4, off) 0131 337 6169, dunstanehotels.co.uk | £20 (dinner)

Suit up and step into what feels like the

A recent refit has brought modern soft furnishings and a stylish colour palette to

SCOTTISH

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SPECIALIZING IN THE BEST OF SEAFOOD AND MEATS FROM THE HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND

0131 337 6169

Twenty Princes Street Grill & Smokehouse (page 100): city-centre dining with a confident swagger

this elegant hotel dining room, removing any sense of stuffiness and providing a welcoming atmosphere. The name is an homage to the ownersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Orcadian roots, and their aim is to offer a celebration of Orkneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest produce â&#x20AC;&#x201C; namely meat, fish and whisky. With two menus on offer, diners can choose to mix and match between the more informal Stane menu â&#x20AC;&#x201C; comfort food like fish and chips, burgers, 28-day-aged steaks â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and the fine-dining Skerries menu, which brings a touch of finesse to proceedings. The Cullen skink is delicately creamy and smoky, while poached smoked haddock with pomme purĂŠe, leek and mustard cream is like a very tasty deconstructed fish pie. Daily specials might include pan-fried scallops with broad bean risotto, and there are a couple of decent options for vegetarians. In an area otherwise bereft of eating options, The Skerries makes a good stab at attracting local residents as well as hotel guests. + Admirable sourcing - Hard to escape the hotel atmosphere

Stac Polly 29â&#x20AC;&#x201C;33 Dublin Street, New Town (Map 1B: B4, 60) 0131 556 2231, stacpolly.com | ÂŁ30 (dinner)

Twenty years ago, Stac Polly was in the vanguard of contemporary Scottish cooking â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an outrider in the mid-priced desert, flanked by non-gastro pub grub and once-a-year fine dining. Edinburghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s food scene is a different landscape now, but this trio (the second restaurant is in the Old Town and thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the brasserie/ bar upstairs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; see page 39) has carved out a new niche. On friendly terms with upmarket local hotels, it caters to a steady stream of tourists after an authentic taste of Scotland. And it is authentic, as tourists arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t its exclusive trade: the stone-walled cellar restaurant still feels like a New Town secret, and the tastefully thistled curtains and now rather traditional menu hold local appeal too. Scotlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous ingredients make a guaranteed appearance: the haggis filo parcels starter has been on the menu for 24 years, and beef and venison are present and correct. Consistently good cooking means the sweetness of west coast queen scallops isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t lost under their flavoursome lemon and chorizo crumb, and roasted guinea fowl remains tender, though its side of green beans eschews seasonality. As

youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d expect from a patriotic restaurant, after-dinner drams arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t neglected: over 50 whiskies sit behind the bar. + Smart and versatile private dining room - Mains are much pricier than starters and puds

Stac Polly Bistro 38 St Maryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Street, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 18) 0131 557 5754, stacpolly.com | Closed Sun | ÂŁ16 (lunch) / ÂŁ25 (dinner)

Providing the quintessential modern Scottish bistro experience, it is easy to understand Stac Polly Bistroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s enduring popularity. Attractively simple dĂŠcor; wooden tables with tasteful, modern tartan trim; contemporary portrait of Edinburghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skyline; haggis bon bons and roast lamb rump are all present and correct. The food is understated and perfectly pleasant, and combined with the relaxed atmosphere and friendly service it makes for an enjoyable meal. The plum chutney that accompanies the haggis bon bons is as zingy as the menu claims, providing contrast to the offally goodness. While it would be nice to at least have the option of taking the lamb rump rare, the accompanying richly reduced game jus keeps it moist and flavoursome. A tart cassis sorbet is well matched with lemon curd cheesecake, and cranachan or Iain Mellis cheeses provide an equally fitting end to your meal. It might not dazzle with originality but that isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t necessarily a bad thing. For a simple, relaxed and enjoyable evening, Stac Polly Bistro manages to tick the right boxes. + Relaxed atmosphere for casual dining - Tables quite close together

Steak 14 Picardy Place, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 33) 0131 556 1289, steakedinburgh.com | ÂŁ35 (dinner)

Steakâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dining room is one of the cleverest examples of interior design in town: a big top of a room, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s divided into loose sections by hanging beams and open shelves. This gives the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;private dining roomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in the centre the illusion of personal space, surrounded by bookshelves, but still with the buzz of a busy restaurant. It also manages, somehow, to be a good space for a date (the stylish grey walls, original features and cool vibe will impress) and for a big party, as the roomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s large enough for you not to annoy your neighbours. Though

4 West Coates, Haymarket Edinburgh, EH12 5JQ www.thedunstane.co.uk

itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s true thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no such thing as good cheap steak, here the higher than average pricing marks it out for special occasions. Staff are excellent at explaining the difference between an Orkney ribeye, an on-the-bone Limousin fillet and an Aberdeen Angus chateaubriand, the latter theatrically carved table-side. While mains are all about hunks of beef, head chef Jason Wright has fun with the rest: mussels are unconventionally but very successfully cooked in red wine, and desserts include playful, super-sweet peanut butter sâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;mores, served on what can only be termed a pudding bridge. + Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget the frĂŽtes: triple-cooked chips are a hit - The restaurant and Twelve Bar can feel a tad understaffed

The Stockbridge Restaurant 54 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 19) 0131 226 6766, thestockbridgerestaurant.co.uk | Closed Mon | ÂŁ28 (dinner)

Follow the fairy lights down the steps to this snug restaurant and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find the relaxed, warm atmosphere of an excellent neighbourhood bistro, serving food that moves it into the realms of destination dining. This is reflected in the relaxed mix of mostly older, well-heeled Stockbridge regulars, a few younger couples and the occasional tourist. Deep-coloured walls, thick curtains and table linens leave you feeling cosily ensconced while chef/ proprietor Jason Gallagherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s menu is traditional in the best sense. Kitchen time is spent preparing stocks, making bread and the slow preparation of less traditional cuts (cheeks, ears and tails) rather than experimenting with the latest fads. Duck breast comes with savoy cabbage, potato terrine and jus and all the components are excellent; the jus made from well-reduced, good quality stock. An accompanying duck confit spring roll adds an extra note of interest to a familiar dish. Similarly a pre-dessert of passion fruit sorbet is simple, well executed, intensely flavoured and delicious. A good-value set menu served Tuesday to Friday and a well-chosen, fairly priced wine list add the final touches to a solidly enjoyable restaurant. + Everything you could want in a neighbourhood restaurant - Perhaps not creative enough to draw people across town

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The List Eating & Drinking Guide 99

SCOTTISH

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4 Timberyard 10 Lady Lawson Street, West End (Map 4: D1, 28) 0131 221 1222, timberyard.co | Closed Sun/Mon | ÂŁ14 (set lunch) / ÂŁ26 (dinner)

Where to start with Timberyard? Perhaps itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s with the stunning surroundings of the old timber yard itself, the dĂŠcor post-industrial yet homely, with tartan blankets and dripping candles to soften the edges. Could it be the obvious dedication to good service and customer happiness, with a warm welcome offered by the Radford family and their staff who canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do enough for you. Possibly itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the bar, where fascinating cocktails (crab apple fizz, filthy pig) or just a darn good gin and tonic are the order of the day pre- or post-dinner and where attention to detail runs down to making all syrups, cordials and soft drinks in house. But probably it should be with the beautiful food. The menu, designed to be taken as four courses â&#x20AC;&#x201C; bites, small, large and sweet â&#x20AC;&#x201C; is a to-the-point exercise in celebrating seasonal Scottish produce. With description kept to the minimum, the produce itself tells a story: thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wild fish and foraged herbs; meat, game and an intriguing number of unusual ingredients (ramsons, primrose, spelt, ramps) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; not to mention inventive use of home-smoking along the way. The menu changes all the time, depending on what comes in each day, but one thingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s for sure: the desserts are always a work of art. An intriguing bare-bones description â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;chocolate, frozen bramble, black pepper, oatsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; only hints at a dish of complexity and sophistication to be found in both palate and plate. So, where to start with Timberyard? Go and see for yourself â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t regret it. + Food, service, setting, drinks â&#x20AC;&#x201C; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all fantastic - The toilets are a bit of a trek

Tower Restaurant National Museum of Scotland, Chambers Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 46) 0131 225 3003, tower-restaurant.com | ÂŁ15.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ32 (dinner)

From the suited gentlemanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s discreet greeting at the front door to the muted dĂŠcor and incredible views over Edinburghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Old Town, the Tower experience is all class. And thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s before you get to the lobster thermidor. Like its sister restaurants, The Witchery and Rhubarb, the Tower is as much about the surroundings as it is about the food, combining in a seductive package that entices customers back again and again. An admirable sourcing policy concentrating on fine Scottish produce results in a menu packed with Sound of Cumbrae oysters, Dingwall black pudding, steaks from Cairnhill Farm and a clear focus on seasonal vegetables. The

aforementioned lobster sits alongside some blow-the-budget scallops and steaks, but there are also some genuinely interesting vegetarian options such as a smoky aubergine and chickpea cassoulet served with olives and little feta bonbons. Desserts play to the gallery, with crowd pleasers like apple tart tatin or chocolate and honeycomb terrine. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a goodvalue set lunch, daily afternoon tea and the option to eat outside on the roof terrace when the weather allows. This is special-occasion dining with a setting to match. All the better if someone else is paying. + That view - Those prices

The Turquoise Thistle Hotel Indigo, 51â&#x20AC;&#x201C;59 York Place, New Town (Map 1B: C5, 30) 0131 556 5577, hotelindigoedinburgh.co.uk/dining | ÂŁ12 (lunch) / ÂŁ18.50 (dinner)

Since opening, Hotel Indigo â&#x20AC;&#x201C; part of a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;boutique chainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; from the InterContinental Hotels Group â&#x20AC;&#x201C; has known nothing other than doorstep disruption. But now, finally freed from the grip of the tramworks, its Turquoise Thistle restaurant finds itself ideally located to provide pre-theatre meals or afternoon tea for flagging shoppers. Decorated, as the name suggests, with bold swathes of turquoise, the moniker is also indicative of what to expect on the plate, with a generous use of Scottish ingredients. Pairings are fairly orthodox, but well negotiated. Braised shin of beef yields nicely to the fork, a warm beetroot chutney and smoked mash adding depth of flavour. Likewise, confit pork belly with chorizo, pea and barley straddles the line between wholesome and toothsome. A starter of toasted muffin, topped with wild mushrooms and a poached egg is tasty, thanks in part to a subtle saffron hollandaise. However, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a dish clearly more at home on a brunch menu, while desserts in particular, like the uniform chocolate ganache tart, hint that the kitchen, for now, is more accustomed to catering for one-plate room service rather than a three-course dining experience. + Early-dining deals offer value for money - Hard to shake the feeling that breakfast is still the main meal of the day here

Twenty Princes Street: Grill & Smokehouse 20 Princes Street, City Centre (Map 1B: B6, 48) 0131 556 4901, twentyprincesstreet.co.uk | ÂŁ23 (lunch) / ÂŁ23 (dinner)

With a grand parquet floor, black and gold fittings and striking Old Town skyline views, Twenty Princes Street â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the first phase to emerge out of extensive renovations to the Royal British Hotel â&#x20AC;&#x201C; out-swanks the glut of

Award Winning Cookery School in Central Edinburgh

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100 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

self-consciously flashy neighbours one street up. The confident swagger extends to the menu: Kallin crab comes paired with a finger-lickingly good Innis & Gunn chipotle fondue, and for dessert thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s deconstructed Jaffa Cake. Eager to dabble with modernist techniques and expensive gadgets, the kitchen boasts a much-coveted Josper grill â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a charcoalfired oven capable of producing extreme heat and intense flavour. The Secreto de Iberico demonstrates its potency, a maple glaze and paprika mash both adding to the sweet smokiness of the chargrilled pork, although it probably deserves a punchier accompaniment than saffronbuttered green beans. Yet despite all the neat tricks, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the relative simplicity of the roasted shellfish platter, cooked plainly with garlic and butter, which lingers longest in the memory. A tray brimming with langoustines, razor clams, mussels, cockles and a king scallop â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and half a lobster â&#x20AC;&#x201C; makes for an impressive feast and outstanding value compared to many of its contemporaries. + Service strikes the right balance between friendly informality and accommodating attentiveness - Most of the rest of the venue still a work in progress, with tatty entrance and scruffy toilets

Wedgwood the Restaurant 267 Canongate, Old Town (Map 2B: B3, 24) 0131 558 8737, wedgwoodtherestaurant.co.uk | ÂŁ12.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ27 (dinner)

The Wedgwoods in question are Paul and Lisa, who set out in 2007 to deliver the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;perfect night outâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. They succeeded in their aim to design dining thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s special without being pretentious, and both ingredients-driven and imaginative. The menu changes with the seasons, though certain signature dishes consistently crop up â&#x20AC;&#x201C; lobster thermidor crĂ¨me brĂťlĂŠe, for example, the main ingredient often sourced direct from the boat by chef Paul, and served with a Bloody Mary sorbet that could be a touch bolder with its flavours. Wild food is woven thoughtfully into dishes: seaweed-crusted lamb, a side of foraged leaves, a sweet cicely sorbet or nettle soup. Tender, blush-pink roast duck is perfectly cooked, with typically seasonal accompaniments: Jerusalem artichoke and hazelnut crumble, chorizo roasted sprouts, and a duck leg croquette. Hazelnut mousse with liquorice icecream is a fantastic pudding, although the flavours in both elements could be more concentrated â&#x20AC;&#x201C; not something that could be said of their famous sticky toffee pudding. Newly refurbished, the small restaurant is stylish by day, romantic by night. The best atmosphere is upstairs, but wherever your table is: relax, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s yours all evening. + Ethical shellfish, organic meat â&#x20AC;&#x201C; total ingredient confidence - Wanting a jug rather than a shot-glass of the sublime palate cleanser

Whiski Rooms 4, 6 & 7 North Bank Street, Old Town (Map 2A: C2, 18) 0131 225 7224, whiskirooms.co.uk | ÂŁ22 (lunch) / ÂŁ22 (dinner)

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Love makes the world go round? Not at all. Whisky makes it go round twice as fast.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; That could be the motto of this popular shop and eatery, where there is whisky galore. Despite its obvious tourist appeal, the food in Whiski Rooms, situated off the Royal Mile in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle, is pretty good. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s traditional Scottish fare with a modern twist, which matches the dĂŠcor in this cosy wood-panelled and stone-walled bistro. Starters include a creamy and well seasoned Cullen skink or juicy haggis spring rolls in a plum sauce for

those seeking Caledonian classics. The steaks are a draw but hefty price tags mean cost-conscious diners may prefer a shin of beef that dissolves onto a plate of curly kale and confit potatoes and is set off with a subtle beetroot sauce â&#x20AC;&#x201C; perhaps washed down with a dram of Bunnahabhain. A juicy seabass fillet served with a tangy sauce vierge is a good choice for fish lovers. Desserts are not the most exciting, but the crunchy rhubarb and apple crumble is a winner. + Good Scottish grub and whisky galore! - Disappointing desserts

Wildfire Restaurant and Grill 192 Rose Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 51) 0131 225 3636, wildfirerestaurant. co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | ÂŁ11.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ25 (dinner)

With its rowdy reputation, Rose Street isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t exactly where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d expect to chance upon this calm wee gem. Intimate and cosy, all pastel pale green walls and soft lighting, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a hint of rustic charm too, the exposed stone walls and deep hearth hinting at the buildingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one-time incarnation as a blacksmithâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one of those rarities: suitable for a romantic assignation, dinner out with a group of friends or as an escape from midweek kitchen drudgery. Steak is their main forte. A plump Aberdeen Angus ribeye comes adorned with a knob of garlic butter, appealing to the eye, and every bit as good to eat. To think of it purely in those terms is a disservice though, and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be just as happy ditching the grills and going off-menu. A special of Cajun-spiced sea bream is crisp skinned and well balanced, served with a medley of chargrilled Mediterranean vegetables and a cool, sharp tzatziki. Other daily creations, like a steak and ale stew, offer decent value and portions are generous, exemplified by the deep-bottomed bowl of creamy, comforting Cullen skink. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s welcoming, tasty neighbourhood dining, slap-bang in the city centre. + Unfussy, relaxed and reliable - The bathrooms could do with updating

The Witchery by the Castle Castlehill, Royal Mile, Old Town (Map 2A: B2, 32) 0131 225 5613, thewitchery.com | ÂŁ15.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ35 (dinner)

The Witcheryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reputation as one of the UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most opulent venues has not been exaggerated: equally dramatic, the two dining rooms have distinct identities. The Secret Garden is an enclosed courtyard entirely lit by candles which glimmer dimly off the dark wooden beamed ceiling. A huge tapestry covers one wall, and the tables are luxurious with crisp white cloths, flowers and candles. The elaborately panelled, leather-seated Witchery dining room was a 16th-century merchantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s house: itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just as stunning, but a better bet for non-romantic evenings. Head chef Douglas Roberts has been here for nigh on 20 years and his menu is adroitly tailored to showcase the best, most famous Scottish ingredients to tourists â&#x20AC;&#x201C; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s strong on seafood, because Scotland is â&#x20AC;&#x201C; while still keeping foodsavvy locals interested. Juniper-smoked venison loin is a particularly successful main, so grown-up with its smoketouched meat and rich swirl of chocolate oil. The food is about flavour rather than fireworks, but there are playful touches: hand-dived scallops en croute are fun (though tricky to eat) hidden under a shell-shaped pastry lid, and the six-onone-plate pudding selection is a charming recognition that this is a special-occasion venue, and having it all is the ultimate luxury. + A 500-strong wine list that doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t neglect good house bottles - Glimpses of service-by-script

SPANISH

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4 HITLIST

SPANISH Edinburgh’s small number of Spanish restaurants are well worth seeking out for a warm welcome and an increasingly authentic taste of the Iberian peninsula. Tapas remain perennial favourites but with lots of places mixing up small and larger dishes and experimenting beyond Spanish omelette and calamares, there’s always something new on the menu. Expect to enjoy filling, homestyle dishes packed with rich, earthy flavours like tomato, paprika, chorizo, red wine and garlic. ¡Que aproveche!

SPANISH 4 El Quijote Some of the best Spanish regional cooking in Edinburgh can be found behind the doors of this cosy Tollcross restaurant.

Reviewer: Hilary Lloyd

Café Andaluz

Café Andaluz is the Spanish offshoot of an Italian restaurant family which includes Amarone and Di Maggio’s in Glasgow. It’s less a café than a busy, bustling restaurant which stretches back like a Tardis from its George Street frontage. Nevertheless it manages a cosy feel through its many booths and benches, the hardwood furniture complementing Moorish influences in the colourful wall tiling and hanging lanterns. While the interior references southern Spain, the menu is more ecumenical with a wide range of popular tapas from across the peninsula. There’s some evidence of culinary adjustment for local palates: ‘Pil Pil’ prawns are sweet and juicy but definitely lacking chilli punch. However, Andalusian black pudding and braised pig cheeks in red wine are satisfyingly rich and it’s one of the few places to offer individual servings of paella. Good-value lunch and pre-theatre menus keep the place buzzing throughout the day and into the evening (the restaurant’s size makes it a great option for large parties). The most centrally located of Edinburgh’s Spanish eateries, its friendly atmosphere and crowd-pleasing menu should ensure its continuing popularity. + Exuberant décor from floor to ceiling - Less flair on display in some of the food

4 El Quijote 13a Brougham Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 5) 0131 478 2856, quijotetapas.co.uk | £20 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

A short trot from the centre of Tollcross brings you to the doors of El Quijote,

beach it’s named after. + Quality ingredients are allowed to shine - Can be very quiet midweek

PHOTO © CAITLIN COOKE

77B George Street, New Town (Map 1A: C5, 64) 0131 220 9980, cafeandaluz.com | £14.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Rafael’s

Tapa (page 102): red and gold Iberian warmth down by Leith’s Shore

named after the famous knight-errant of La Mancha. Inside, you’ll find a friendly welcome from the Spanish owners and food that any wandering Spaniard might recognise. El Quijote cooks up dishes from all over Spain, with lots of regional specialties: pimientos del padrón from Galicia, cheese from Asturias, salmorejo (a dramatically garlicky, thick soup made with tomato and bread) from Andalusia. Although billed as a tapas bar, many dishes are available as either tapas, a larger ración for sharing, or a main course. Stand-alone mains include a generous steak of Iberico pork, perfectly griddled so it’s still juicy inside, and ‘Sancho’, a big hug of a dish with ham and fried eggs baked on top of chorizo and ratatouille. El Quijote himself surveys the room from an imposing spot on the bar (he has 12 smaller doppelgangers around the restaurant) and the wooden furnishings, heavy beams and hangings lend a bit of a tavern feel. Swing up your boots and fill them too. + Lives up to its billing of ‘real’ Spanish food - Desserts are an acquired taste (aniseed custard cream, anyone?)

Indaba 3 Lochrin Terrace, Tollcross See Round the World

Malvarosa 262 Portobello High Street, Portobello (Map 5A: E1, off) 0131 669 7711, malvarosa.co.uk | Mon/Tue | £7.90 (set lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

A welcoming splash of colour on Portobello High Street, Malvarosa beckons the hungry of east Edinburgh with its swinging ‘tapas’ sign. After a decade working in the city, Alvaro Bernabeu missed the taste of home so much he opened his own restaurant to recreate it. For him, Spanish cuisine is all about simple flavours and great ingredients, honestly made. That philosophy comes to life in dish after dish: crusty home-baked bread, creamy fabada (a moreish butter bean stew with chorizo and black pudding), a delicious, feather-light (and gluten-free) almond cake. Vegetables are also given their due: a winter salad of sweet asparagus and broad beans is perfectly paired with salty Serrano ham. The setting is relaxed and informal, with a chatter of Spanish orders from the open kitchen and amiable banter from Alvaro himself behind the bar. Malvarosa is very much a neighbourhood restaurant that appreciates and is appreciated by its local clientele; however, it’s worth a trip from further afield to taste authentic Spanish food in a place that feels as sunny as the Valencia

2 Deanhaugh Street, Stockbridge (Map 1A: B2, 13) 0131 332 1469, rafaels-bistro. wikidot.com | Closed Sun/Mon | £22.50 (dinner)

Step down into the cosy warmth of Rafael’s basement restaurant and prepare to be charmed by this intimate, family-run bistro. Couples chat at tables decked in white tablecloths in the compact dining room decorated with Spanish ephemera. Chef-patron Rafael Torrubia is a genial presence, regularly emerging from the kitchen to whisk away plates and chat with diners. His food, inspired by his native Spain with wider Mediterranean influences, has a homely feel in the best sense of the word: generous, flavoursome and not overly fussy. The daily changing menu, delivered to your table on a blackboard, is a traditional three-course affair (no tapas or sangria here). Perhaps unsurprisingly, the Spanish dishes taste most vivid and authentic: garbanzos de Andalucia is a moreish chickpea and chorizo stew infused with red wine, garlic and smoky paprika. A twice-baked cheese soufflé is puffed and tangy, and hearty main courses such as steak with salsa brava come with buttery steamed vegetables. A low mark-up on the wine list is a welcome bonus. Expect to emerge feeling well fed and part of the family. + Genuinely warm and welcoming service from Rafael and his team - Atmosphere may feel a little subdued for some

Traditional Spanish Tapas Restaurant

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11 BRUNTSFIELD PLACE, EDINBURGH, EH10 4HN

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 101

THAI

list.co.uk

EDINBURGH

La Sal 6–8 Howden Street, Southside (Map 3C: D1, 5) 0131 667 3600, lasal.co.uk | £14.50 (lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

Behind an unassuming frontage on a quiet Newington street, you’ll find La Sal and Alba Flamenca, the flamenco dance school with which it shares premises. The restaurant comes first, tucking in some small tables at the windows before you come to the main room at the back, ideal for larger parties. In between is the dance studio, where performances are held on the popular ‘tablao flamenco’ dinner and dance nights. Whether or not you’re lucky enough to have a flamenco soundtrack to your meal, there’s a lot to like about this cosy Spanish restaurant with its laid-back vibe and hospitable feel. The food, while not entirely a virtuoso performance, delivers Spanish flavour in an array of traditional, home-style dishes. Huevos Alba Flamenca, a satisfying hash of potatoes, chorizo and spicy tomato sauce, keeps hunger at bay while you wait for steaming saffron-yellow paella, made to order and served with a flourish in a cast-iron pan. Octopus ‘a la gallega’, teamed with potato and paprika, strikes an odd note amid an otherwise reliable menu from this colourful and welcoming neighbourhood restaurant. + Some of the best Iberico ham in Edinburgh - Tattered menus don’t create the best first impression

THAI Infused with the distinctive flavours of lime leaves, coconut and lemongrass, Thai cuisine offers a rich variety of dishes. This diversity is reflected in Edinburgh’s Thai restaurants: from street food served in takeaway boxes through to highend glitz, there is something for most wallets and most occasions. This section also includes some neighbourhood gems offering relaxed dining and excellent value. Whatever venue you choose you’ll find hearty helpings, vibrant flavours and a warm welcome. Reviewers: Martin Crawford, David Cummins, Tracey Reilly

two is great value, and the selection of curries has something for everyone. The seafood specialities use good-quality ingredients and the whole menu has a helpful spice rating from zero to three chillies – it’s worth trying anything that involves the homemade chilli paste. Presentation is excellent, and there is a level of attention to detail in the food that is not preceded by the surroundings. If you have space, and a very sweet tooth, the crêpe with Thai sweet coconut sauce will satisfy. While it may be more relative than absolute, this is a little neighbourhood gem in Edinburgh’s Thai scene. + Perfectly cooked sirloin in green curry - Living-room ambience

Bangkok Bar

keenly priced lunch and pre-theatre deals, while the à la carte menu has an emphasis on stir-fried dishes. Starters include fish cakes infused with the delicate flavour of kaffir lime leaves and spices, plus spring rolls, dim sum or a tom yum soup. From the mains, the chef’s recommendations are generally a solid bet. Panang curry combines the aromatic flavours of coconut and lime with a decent chilli hit while the tod yum – fried sea bass fillets with mango, lemongrass, cashew and chilli lime dressing – has a good flavour, although a slightly papery batter. Desserts such as black sticky rice pudding, sorbets or banana fritters are prettily presented and worth trying if you can fit them in. + Good-value menu and an interesting and varied wine list - Bathrooms could do with a spruce up

36 Broughton Street, New Town See Bars & Pubs

Chaophraya

Celadon Absolute Thai 22 Valleyfield Street, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 15) 0131 228 8022, absolutethai. co.uk | Sunday | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

The ambience of Absolute Thai is rather more unfinished than the name suggests. The dining room is a tight squeeze and décor is a strange mixture of disparate furniture and trinkets that would be at home in a gap student’s living room. The menu is extensive, clear and welljudged, however, with a mixture of favourites and more unusual dishes. The platter of starters for a minimum of

49–51 Causewayside, Southside (Map 3C: D3, 23) 0131 667 1110, celadonrestaurant.co.uk | Closed Mon | £7.99 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Slightly off the beaten track, Celadon’s southside location means that it attracts an eclectic blend of locals, tourists from nearby guest houses and students. The restaurant offers a comfortable environment with stripped-back walls, fairy lights and hefty wooden tables, with only a few intricate carved wooden decorations alluding to the Thai theme. There are several menu options, including set menus and some

Tapa 19 Shore Place, Leith (Map 5A: C2, 27) 0131 476 6776, tapaedinburgh.co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

At five years old, Tapa is already a veteran of Edinburgh’s late-developing Spanish restaurant scene – but it’s certainly maturing well. Housed in a historic bond warehouse tucked behind the Shore, the restaurant spans two airy rooms which nevertheless manage to feel cosy in the evenings. Vintage bullfighting posters and splashes of red and gold evoke Iberian warmth, as do the friendly and knowledgable staff. The menu offers a wide selection of generously sized tapas, including many vegetarian options, but meat – especially pork – provides the star dishes. Think nutty, intense Iberico salami, slow-cooked pig cheeks with caramelised apples, or morcilla (Spanish black pudding) topped with a perfectly fried quail’s egg. Yes, the usual suspects are present and correct, but this is definitely a place which rewards experimentation. Dessert is no exception: sample crispy churros or a wonderful creamy rice pudding with crispy caramel topping. The well chosen, if short, Spanish wine list offers the chance to try some vines less travelled. Tapa is deservedly popular and, if you haven’t been for a while, worthy of rediscovery. + Taste the authentic flavours of Spain in imaginative dishes - Standard tapas options pale by comparison

If you are looking for a destination dining experience featuring Thai food, then Chaophraya should fit the bill perfectly. With its city-centre rooftop location, intricate lighting arrangements and stunning view of the castle, this place is all about creating a sense of occasion. The menu is fairly broad with the usual suspects of tempura and satay skewers appearing alongside Scottish inspired options such as seared scallops and black pudding with mango, chilli and palm sugar. From the main courses, a lamb massaman has tender meat in a light and aromatic sauce while the duck salad has plenty of well seared meat but could do with something to counter the slightly overwhelming effect of both spring and red onions. Service, from the liveried waiting staff, is helpful and swift – most tables are on a two-hour booking slot. However, if you are not ready to make your exit you can always retire to the stylish Palm Sugar bar to admire the view and sample their signature cocktails. + High-end dining in a blinging venue - Mood lighting so dim that you struggle to read the menu

Dusit 49a Thistle Street, New Town (Map 1A: D4, 81) 0131 220 6846, dusit.co.uk | £12.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Dusit has become a byword for fine Thai dining in Scotland. It is the place to take people, and recommend to people, knowing they won’t leave disappointed. The English names of the dishes give the menu a narrative quality, inviting you to tell a story through your meal – think of ‘Two Brothers’ ‘In Harmony’ with a ‘Run Away Fish’ – while the impeccably consistent cooking and quality local produce compel you to talk about it. Excellence has been pursued here to the extent that authenticity may have inadvertently been left behind, but what is wrong with excellence? Koo Saneha is a delightfully simple scallop and king prawn dish – named ‘A Loving Couple’, the chef’s skill brings harmony and flavour to the relationship. Curries are the speciality here, and one to look for is the signature Dusit Curry with its tender Scottish sirloin and ‘mysterious’ red curry sauce. If you have room there’s a small selection of desserts that are worth the inevitable strained stomach. + Outstanding quality produce - No sticky rice

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Imperial Palace Chaophraya: slick cooking and rooftop location create a sense of occasion

102 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

33 Castle Street, New Town (Map 1A: B5, 59) 0131 226 7614, chaophraya. co.uk/venues/chaophraya-edinburgh | £13.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

36 Inglis Green Road, West End See Chinese

THAI

In association with

Krua Khun Mae 29 Cockburn Street, 1 Craigâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Close, Old Town (Map 2A: D2, 6) 0131 225 7007, changthai-restaurant. co.uk | ÂŁ7.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ19.95 (set dinner)

Krua Khun Mae translates as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kitchenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, a name chosen by new owner Anan to reflect the homely nature of the menu and ambience. Originally called Chang Thai, this cosy subterranean restaurant is tucked into a tiny alley which runs down from Cockburn Street to Waverley station. While the dĂŠcor (wood-panelled beach shack) has changed very little from the previous tenants, the menu has been given a welcome revamp. In addition to wellcooked Thai favourites, such as green curry and various stir fries, there are a selection of dishes straight from the family dinner table and even a couple of fusion dishes thrown in for good measure. Jungle curry is indeed a wild concoction, with lemongrass, chilli and grachai root packing a powerful flavour punch, though the sauce is a bit watery. Haggis kai jeow illustrates an interesting twist on a traditional Thai dish, with peppery haggis joining spring onions and herbs in a huge puffy omelette. From the dessert choices, the small mountain of banana fritters is delicious, smothered in toffee sauce and scattered with roasted cashews. + Handsome portions - Tired dĂŠcor

Levenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 30â&#x20AC;&#x201C;32 Leven Street, Southside (Map 3A: C2, 17) 0131 229 8988, levensrestaurant.net | Closed Wed | ÂŁ8.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ20 (dinner)

Since opening in 2008, Levenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s has

been known for two things: its suave contemporary interior and its quirky, sometimes strange, fusion cuisine. The dĂŠcor remains impeccable, but Levenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seem to have abandoned their fusion ambitions. So, say goodbye to chicken curry lasagne and hello to an almost entirely Thai selection of soups, salads, stir fries and curries. A couple of dishes pay lip service to the chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s previous cross-border experimentation. The prawn and vegetable tempura makes a pleasingly light starter, whereas the dairy-free coconut panacotta is a more confusing prospect. This beautifully presented dessert features golden toasted sesame and fresh mango but the main attraction possesses a strange lumpy texture. An excellent salmon green curry demonstrates the skill of the kitchen â&#x20AC;&#x201C; juicy grilled salmon fillet has glistening crisp skin, sauce is intense yet creamy and vegetables are cooked to perfection. In addition to an extensive Ă la carte evening menu, Levenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is a good choice for pre-theatre dining due to its efficient service and proximity to the Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Theatre. + Delicately spiced, succulent scallops - Mouth-numbingly hot salad

Mintleaf 28 Bernard Street, Leith See Indian

4 Passorn 23â&#x20AC;&#x201C;23a Brougham Place, Tollcross (Map 3A: C1, 9) 0131 229 1537, passornthai. com | Closed Sun | ÂŁ9.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ22 (dinner)

It is no surprise that Passorn has built up a strong following of regular customers from in and around the capital. The operation is slick from top to toe. Waiting

L E V E Nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S THAI

Discover the ultimate al fresco dining experience

FUSION

CUISINE

Open 7 days a week for lunch & dinner Levenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Restaurant 30-32 Leven Street Edinburgh â&#x20AC;˘ EH3 9LJ Tel: 0131 229 8988

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The List Eating & Drinking Guide 103

THAI

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EDINBURGH

4 Port of Siam (Barony Street) 1 Barony Street, New Town (Map 1B: C4, 21) 0131 478 7720, portofsiam.com | Closed Mon | £9.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

The slightly labyrinthine premises of the New Town branch of Port of Siam are spread over several rooms with entrances from both Barony and Broughton Streets. It shares the same menu – and the same husband and wife chef team – as its sister restaurant in Newhaven. Scottish and Thai culinary influences are deftly intermingled, with the best of Scottish produce being enhanced by the addition of herbs, spices and aromatic sauces. Venison skewers show the benefit of a few hours’ marinating; the tender, gamey meat is well complemented by a rich tamarind sauce while a Thai winter salad

features pomegranate, apple and herbs, with the tartness of the fruit balanced by a feisty sweet chilli dressing. For mains, choose from traditional Thai or more contemporary dishes – the latter might include an aged Buccleuch beef sirloin, served still sizzling and dressed with a whisky and hoisin sauce. If you have a sweet tooth there are Thai-influenced takes on panacotta or rice pudding, plus a range of ice-creams including a subtle and unusual pandanus leaf flavour made to the restaurant’s own recipe by local ice-cream manufacturers Di Rollo’s. + Cheery, upbeat service and a menu with a distinctive take on Thai food - Series of separate rooms means it lacks the cosy atmosphere of the Newhaven branch

4 Port of Siam (Newhaven) 3 Pier Place, Leith (Map 5A: A2, off) 0131 467 8628, portofsiam.com | Closed Mon | £9.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Tucked behind an unassuming frontage opposite Newhaven harbour, Port of Siam offers a stylish and modern take on Thai cuisine. The menu’s two sections are divided between contemporary and more traditional dishes. Following the traditional route will bring you the likes of crisply fried vegetable or seafood tempura, or a tasty yellow bean and monkfish stir fry. More contemporary choices offer a fusion-inspired marriage of Thai flavours and local produce, such as crumbed fish-cakes of fluffy mashed potato and haddock served with chilli dipping sauce, or marinated grilled lamb with a mint and chilli sauce. Those who struggle to decide or who simply want to graze should take advantage of the Tuesday night Thai tapas offer, which

PHOTO © CAITLIN COOKE

staff glide in and out unobtrusively in bespoke uniforms; surroundings are spotless and tasteful; dishes come beautifully presented and are of the finest quality. And very little tradition appears to have been sacrificed in pursuit of this fine-dining experience. Signature dishes include Pla Samun Pri (crispy monkfish in a turmeric and coconut sauce) and a delightful leg of lamb in Massaman curry sauce, available in spice ratings one to five to suit your bravery. There is also a special menu that changes every quarter to keep the regulars interested. The philosophy of owner Cindy Sritsotorn is an absolute commitment to good cooking, the finest, free-range produce and authentic Thai flavours, and the passion and commitment is evident in every detail. + Fantastic quality produce - Only two house wines

Ting Thai Caravan: precise, modern Thai cooking in a fun environment

includes four tapa-sized portions and a glass of wine. Desserts are no mere afterthought and continue the fusion theme, with a soft and creamy lemongrass panacotta providing a refreshing finish to the meal. This is food that justifies venturing out of the town-centre culinary norm, with a well-considered menu served in a sleek yet unpretentious environment. + Eclectic mix of Thai spices and local ingredients - The crème brûlée is a touch heavy

Ruan Siam 48 Howe Street, New Town (Map 1A: C3, 32) 0131 226 3675, ruanthai.co.uk | No Kids (under 5) | £9.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

You might have to venture underground to get to this cosy little hideaway, but it’s no underdog. Diners melt into the mood-lit, jazz-infused oasis, surrounded by authentic smells and friendly, welljudged welcomes. The menu opens with a short explanation of the restaurant’s ethos, and makes a proud statement about the locally sourced produce, underpinned by extensive field research. What follows fuses Thai tradition and Scottish experimentation to great effect. Kanom Jeep (chicken and prawn dumplings) are delicate and flavoursome, and the sea bass two ways is an ambitious blend of flavours and ingredients that really works. From the small dessert selection, the coconut rice with mango is one of those rare Thai-influenced puddings that is well worth saving room for. To wash it all down Ruan Siam has a small but surprising selection of Thai wine, including a rosé. + Sticky rice - Heavy cutlery

Spirit of Thai 44 Grindlay Street, West End (Map 4: C1, 36) 0131 228 9333, spiritofthai.com | £9.50 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Open 7 days a week for lunch & dinner 44 Grindlay Street Edinburgh EH3 9AP Tel: 0131 228 9333 www.spiritofthai.com

104 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

In a location so unequivocally Scottish, it is no easy task to bring, as this restaurant aims, a little Spirit of Thai. Once inside however the bustling tourist crowds seem distant. Asian chillout music, authentic smells, and décor that has been put together with apparent attention to both detail and authenticity, make everything feel just right. Thai staff wearing Thai dress and a Thai demeanour are welcoming, organised and attentive, without being overbearing. The authenticity of the place is woven with that of the menu: curries, seafood

specialities, and a wide selection of vegetarian options are presented beautifully, with traditional flourishes that display the knife skills of the chef. The tastes do not disappoint, and delicious sauces send diners further from home, with quality meat used throughout. The standard banana fritters are available for dessert, or a cup of jasmine tea poured from a pot that feels as hand-made and traditional as the food. Stepping back into Edinburgh should be delayed for as long as possible – it feels a world away. + The fishcakes - No sticky rice

Suree Thai 42 St Stephen Street, New Town (Map 1A: B2, 22) 0131 226 5111, sureethai. co.uk | Closed Mon | £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Formerly the owner of several catering establishments in her native Thailand, Maneewan ‘Eev’ White named her new Edinburgh restaurant venture after her late mother. The homely atmosphere reflects her desire to showcase the best of Thai cuisine and hospitality at an affordable price. Simply furnished with dark tables and neutral wall colours, the small space is lifted by some attractive wee features such as the carved wooden cornicing. The menu largely sticks to the well-worn favourites of red and green curries and stir-fries although those who are already familiar with Thai food are encouraged to ask for any old favourites ‘off-menu’. Starters of sweet potato fritters topped with sesame seeds and spring rolls are amply proportioned, if a little on the bland side. Main courses pack a heftier flavour punch: larb salad of pork mince, ground rice and herbs is bursting with the vibrant tang of fish sauce, lime leaves and chilli, while fruity red duck curry successfully marries sweet and salty flavours and is attractively presented in a copper pot. Service is personal and eager to please, if occasionally absent-minded. + Service is infused with a genuine desire to keep customers happy - Bland starters

Thai Lemongrass 40–41 Bruntsfield Place, Southside (Map 3A: B2, 25) 0131 229 2225, thailemongrass.net | £8.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Poised between Tollcross and Bruntsfield, Thai Lemongrass is well positioned to pick up local custom. The glass-fronted dining area is tastefully

THAI

In association with

4 Thai Orchid 5A Johnston Terrace, Old Town (Map 2A: B3, 30) 0131 225 6633, thaiorchid.uk.com | £8.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

The king and queen of Thailand preside over Thai Orchid from high above the bar and what a happy scene they survey. The warm colour palette of brown, pumpkin and ochre is matched by the relaxed geniality of the serving staff. For newcomers, a mixed appetiser is a good starting point, featuring four of the twenty (yes, twenty) mouthwatering starters. Chargrilled chicken skewers have an addictively aromatic peanut sauce, and there are tender Thai spare ribs and prawns wrapped in rice paper, but the star of this little show must be the ‘kari pup’. These tiny Thai samosas are pale and understated on the outside, but bite in to release a flavour explosion of curry chicken, chilli and coriander. Another dish that typifies the cooking style at Thai Orchid is ‘yum’, a refreshing seafood salad which truly deserves its simple moniker. An intricate tapestry of flavours and textures is woven together from the heat of ground fresh chillies, the sweetness of plum sauce and palm sugar and a sour saltiness from citrus and fish sauce. + Flavour is king and queen - Portions are ample, not huge

Time 4 Thai 45 North Castle Street, New Town (Map 1A: B4, 45) 0131 225 8822, time4thai. co.uk | £11.80 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Time 4 Thai prides itself on its sleek interior and tranquil ambience, where shades of purple and green blend harmoniously with soothing Thai music and the softly spoken waiting staff are elegantly dressed and eager. The main culinary attractions here are the interesting starters, seafood and a multitude of curry dishes. A starter of succulent shredded pork comes with

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4 HITLIST

picked out in muted shades of red, green and beige and a golden Buddha – together with a slightly incongruous fish tank – oversees it all. It’s clear from the first plate of food that they don’t rely on any ready-made trickery here. Sauces and accompaniments are freshly made, right down to the hand-carved decorative roses of radish adorning the jade-green plates. It’s that kind of attention to detail and stylish but unfussy presentation which elevate this above your average neighbourhood restaurant. Sweet, nutty chicken satay is tender and its cucumber salad adds a nice note of contrast, while pork neck comes with a richly flavoured chilli, tamarind and lime sauce. The chef’s recommendations are reliably sound: a sirloin steak has crisp greens, seasoned with generous amounts of the eponymous lemongrass, chilli, herbs and lime and the monkfish red curry must be among the best in town. Waiting staff are courteous and knowledgable about the menu and ingredients and service purrs along at a brisk-but-not-quite-brusque pace. + Generous helpings of fresh herbs make for clean and vibrant flavours - Can be a bit chilly in winter months

Lemongrass

THAI 4 Passorn East meets west, as traditional flavours and philosophies combine with the finest Scottish produce.

4 Port of Siam A dynamic duo of venues that effortlessly fuse together traditional and contemporary influences.

4 Thai Orchid Bold, energetic, skillfully balanced Thai flavours within the shadow of the castle.

4 Ting Thai Caravan Riding the crest of the street-food trend, with some refined and properly authentic cooking along the way.

zingy tamarind sauce – a sophisticated sweet and sour experience. An artfully arranged seafood creation sees fillets of grilled sea bream expertly flavoured with lemongrass, chilli and holy basil. In another main course, soft slices of roast duck luxuriate in a creamy red curry with crisp chunks of apple adding a welcome bite and acidity. In addition to the extensive evening à la carte menu, Time 4 Thai have set-price lunchtime options, offering excellent value and choice. Dishes range from chicken satay and Thai fishcakes through to green curry and fiery prawn stir-fry. All dishes are beautifully presented with a lightness of touch and precision that’s mainly but not always echoed in the cooking skill. + Yummy tamarind sauce - Quality inconsistent between dishes

R E S T A U R A N T

Open 7 days a week for lunch & dinner 40-41 Bruntsfield Place • Edinburgh EH10 4HJ Tel: 0131 229 2225 24 Renfrew Street • Glasgow G2 3BW Tel: 0141 331 1315 www.thailemongrass.net

4 Ting Thai Caravan 8–9 Teviot Place, Old Town (Map 2A: C4, 49) 0131 225 9801 | £7 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Since the doors opened in late 2013, uni students, office workers and local residents have been keeping chefs Ting and Ae busy. The décor, low prices and food served in disposable cartons ride the crest of the current street-food trend, but the food itself is something more refined. Chef Ting learned his craft at his parents’ apron strings, serving street food in Thailand, but he went on to cook for the King – and while he’s not reproducing royal banquets here, neither has he dumbed down for Western tastes. The menu is separated into rice and noodle boxes, curries, soups and ‘small bowls’ – perfect for sharing and exploring the chefs’ skill at packing fresh, clean flavours into their dishes. Great picks are miang pla, rich mackerel coated with coriander and shallots; lemongrass and lime leaf infused beef (plaa nua mamuang); and khao mun gai tod, crispy fried chicken with coconut and ginger, which instantly became one of their most popular orders. + The flavours of Thailand presented for the 21st century - Sharing tables won’t appeal to everyone

Edinburgh's 1st Contemporary Thai Restaurant Open 7 days a week for lunch & dinner 45 North Castle Street, Edinburgh EH2 3BG Tel: 0131 225 8822 www.time4thai.co.uk

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 105

425 R E V O SGOW , GLA URANTS A RESTAFES AND C ARS B

Glasgow CITY OF

here haven’t been many years as important to Scotland, and particularly Glasgow, as 2014. Nationally, the Year of Homecoming celebrations coincide with the referendum on independence that will determine the nation’s future, while for the city the eyes of the sporting, and more sedentary, world will be focused on Glasgow for the summer’s Commonwealth Games. The response to the Clutha Bar tragedy in November 2013, when a helicopter crashed onto the roof of the bar resulting in the deaths of nine people, demonstrated Glaswegians’ sense of solidarity, of community and compassion for its fellow citizens. While by no means unique, that sense of citizenship, of belonging and believing in one’s home and heritage, is particularly strong in Glasgow, borne of industry and hardship. The city’s inhabitants demonstrate loyalty, independence and a roll-yoursleeves-up entrepreneurial spirit that filters into much within the city, whether that be the dynamic, globally recognised music and arts or, as highlighted throughout the following pages, the vibrant eating and drinking scene. Full of independent operators, many of whom are Glasgwegian to the core, the hundreds of restaurants, bars and cafés in this guide offer a bewildering collection of dining options. From neighbourhood

106 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

CULTURE

cafés doing the basics with flair and the several artisan coffee roasteries, to high-end fine-dining restaurants and everything in between, be it a curryhouse, craft brewer or casual Italian trattoria, Glaswegians are spoilt for choice when looking to go out, eat good food and enjoy themselves. There’s a sense of adventure, too, particularly over the last year when the street food pop-up scene has flourished with dedicated vendors such as Scoop helping the Street Food Cartel attract huge crowds and plaudits, as well as long-standing bricks-andmortar establishments such as Stravaigin joining in the fun. And then, of course, there are the burgers, with gourmet creations burgeoning at a surprising rate over the past year. As these trends come and go, and areas of the city rise up to signal their credentials, such as Finnieston and Kelvinbridge recently, it’s our job at The List to keep track of the evolutions on the scene. We report on what is new and exciting, as well as giving an annual update on what the old favourites are busy creating and cooking up. We’ve highlighted the best in each section with our Hitlists, while the Tiplists throughout identify the places worth seeking out for their strengths whether it be a cup of tea and cake, a curry delivery or a glass of wine. Here’s to good eating and drinking, and a taste of this great city.

TABLE Talk

• Warren Bader • Kate Clark • Richard Dupupet • Stefan Spicknell • Chris May • Jonathan MacDonald

116 128 138 148 160 166

TIP/,67

THE EATING & DRINKING GUIDE TEAM’S RECOMMENDATIONS

FOR A SENSE OF PLACE • • • • • • • • • • • •

An Clachan Art Lover’s Café Café Source Cottier’s The Edwardian Kitchen Restaurant Fino The Grill Room at the Square Inn Deep Rogano Singl-end Ubiquitous Chip WEST Brewery

137 112 170 134 113 174 170 123 153 163 173 130

FOR NEIGHBOURHOOD DINING • • • • • • • • • • • •

Bibi’s Cantina Cafezique Celino’s Coia’s Café Cookie Ian Brown Food & Drink Rhubarb Simply Fish Sisters Jordanhill St Louis Café Bar Tibo Wee Lochan

164 133 160 160 133 171 135 153 172 167 136 173

FOR KIDS & FAMILIES • • • • • • •

An Clachan Biscuit Brooklyn Café Buddy’s Bar Diner Grill Cookie Di Maggio’s The Italian Bistro

137 138 139 166 133 161 162

Simply Fish

• • • • •

Ketchup No 1 Chocolate Factory St Louis Café Bar Tony Macaroni WEST Brewery

166 143 167 163 130

FOR DIETARY REQUIREMENTS • • • • • • • • •

Avenue G Charcoals Cookie Dakhin The Hidden Lane Tearoom Lychee Oriental Naked Soup Panevino Red Onion

137 156 133 157 114 149 143 163 135

• Rhubarb • Roots and Fruits • Stravaigin

135 147 172

FOR GROUPS & LIVELY PARTIES • • • • • • • •

Balbir’s The Calabash Restaurant Chaophraya Citation The Corinthian Club The Dhabba Di Maggio’s Juan Chihuahua

156 167 174 133 133 157 161 164

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 107

Lucky 7 Canteen

New Zealand’s Most Awarded Wines

To ﬁnd out more about Villa Maria in Scotland contact 01344 871800 or info@hatch.co.uk www.villamariaestate.co.uk

• • • •

La Bodega Tapas Bar Loon Fung Sapporo Teppanyaki WEST Brewery

173 149 151 130

FOR WINES BY THE GLASS • • • • • • • • • •

Bar Gandolﬁ Boudoir Wine Bar La Brava Cail Bruich Gandolﬁ Fish Guy’s Restaurant & Bar Hotel du Vin Bistro The Italian Caffè Panevino Restaurant at Blythswood Square • Ubiquitous Chip • Vroni’s Wine & Champagne Bar

115 118 160 170 152 135 170 162 163 171 173 130

FOR BUDGET DINING • • • • • • • • • • • •

Asian Gourmet 148 Banana Leaf 156 Cailin’s Sushi 150 The Calabash Restaurant 167 Charcoals Café 156 Cook and Indi’s World Buffet 167 Dennistoun Bar-B-Que 166 Dumpling Monkey 148 Lucky 7 Canteen 135 Restauracja U Jarka 168 Riccardo’s Italian Kitchen 163 The Shandon Belles 136

FOR TAKING THE DOG • An Clachan • Brel • Cottier’s Bar and Restaurant • Den Bar & Restaurant • The Finnieston • Inn Deep • McCune Smith Café • The 78 • Stravaigin Café Bar • The Tearooms @ The Butterﬂy and the Pig • The Two Figs 108 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

137 118 134 120 152 123 142 128 136 144 129

• WEST Brewery

130

FOR OUTDOOR DINING • • • • • • • • • •

An Clachan Art Lover’s Café Cafe Source Too Chinaski’s Citation The Finnieston Inn Deep Sonny & Vito’s Tchai-Ovna House of Tea The Tea Room at the Botanics • Ubiquitous Chip • WEST Brewery

137 112 170 120 133 152 123 144 144 114 173 130

FOR A ROMANTIC MEAL • • • • • • •

Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or Citation Cottier’s Bar and Restaurant Gamba Hotel du Vin Bistro La Parmigiana Restaurant at Blythswood Square • Rogano • Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery • Ubiquitous Chip Gamba

155 133 134 152 170 163 171 153 153 173

• Urban Bar & Brasserie • Wee Lochan

136 173

FOR PRE-THEATRE • • • • • • • • • • • •

Amber Regent Le Bistro Beaumartin Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or Cail Bruich City Merchant Dakhin Epicures of Hyndland Guy’s Restaurant & Bar No. Sixteen Red Onion Ubiquitous Chip Urban Bar & Brasserie

147 154 155 170 170 157 134 135 171 135 173 136

FOR ITS SOURCING POLICY • • • • • • • • • • • •

Cail Bruich Cookie Emirates Arena Café The Fish People Café Gamba Lebowskis Martha’s McCune Smith Café Roots and Fruits Siempre Bicycle Café The Sisters Tapa

170 133 113 152 152 124 142 142 147 144 172 144

FOR BYOB • Banana Leaf • Brooklyn Café The Hanoi Bike Shop

156 139

• • • • • • • • • •

Cail Bruich Charcoals Café Cookie Fanny Trollope’s Mother India Nur Roastit Bubbly Jocks Shilla The Sisters Jordanhill Thai Lemongrass

170 156 133 134 158 168 172 151 172 174

FOR LATE DINING • • • • • • • • • • • •

Ashoka Ashton Lane Asian Gourmet Café Gandolﬁ Cafezique The Calabash Restaurant Charcoals The Hanoi Bike Shop Juan Chihuahua Loon Fung Rawalpindi Tandoori The Shandon Belles Stravaigin

155 148 132 133 167 156 150 164 149 159 136 172

FOR LIVE MUSIC • • • • • • • • • • • •

Bar Gumbo Bloc+ Broadcast The Howlin’ Wolf King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut MacSorley’s Mono Nice ‘n’ Sleazy The Roxy 171 Slouch Stereo The 13th Note Café/Bar

165 117 118 123 124 124 125 126 128 128 128 129

FOR VEGETARIAN OPTIONS • • • • • • • • • • • •

Artisan Roast Babu Bombay Street Kitchen Banana Leaf Cookie Mono Roots and Fruits Saramago Café Bar The 78 Stereo Tapa Tchai-Ovna House of Tea The 13th Note

137 156 156 133 125 147 114 128 128 144 144 129

Also look out for Tiplists on the following categories in various sections through the guide Beer & Whisky

123

Wine & Cocktails

124

Good Pub Grub

129

Breakfast & Brunch

140

Coffee

142

Tea & Cakes

144

Snacks on the Go

147

Curry Couriers

157

Pizza

162

Burgers & Dogs

165

Set Lunch Deals

173

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Glasgow Food Events 17 MAY GLASGOW’S WHISKY FESTIVAL The Arches, glasgowswhiskyfestival.com Coinciding with World Whisky Day, this festival of the national tipple covers distillers and bottlers from in and around the city and beyond. 7–8 JUNE GLASGOW MELA Kelvingrove Park, glasgowmela.com Scotland’s largest multicultural gathering brings global music, Bollywood ﬁlms and various stalls featuring global cuisines to this family-friendly event. 6–29 JUNE WEST END FESTIVAL Various venues, West End, westendfestival.co.uk This burgeoning festival tantalises all the senses with music events, a carnival and art exhibits, with restaurants and bars joining in the fun with special events.

TIP/,67 TOP TAKEAWAYS BKK THAI 946 Argyle Street, West End, 0141 243 2337, bkkthai.co.uk, Closed Mon Finnieston takeaway offering fragrant aromas and delicious Thai flavours, from fresh and zingy curry to tasty wontons and steamed dumplings. BUDDY’S BBQ & BURGERS 44 Skirving St, Southside, 0141 632 5417 A spiritual home for US-style food fans. Buddy’s original still rides high, serving up tasty burgers, ribs and wings. (See also p166 for Buddy’s new diner.) CC’S WOOD-FIRED PIZZA PIE COMPANY 685 Clarkston Road, Southside, 0141 637 8883, ccpizza.co.uk CC’s delivers crispy, light wood-fired pizzas with a low-salt, high-health dough and sauce. CURRY POT 139 Dumbarton Road, West End, 0141 334 1549, currypots.co.uk Among the West End’s tastiest Indian takeaways, where freshness dominates home-style cooking. HONG KONG EXPRESS 437a Sauchiehall Street, City Centre, 0141 332 2008 Hong Kong Express’s café-takeaway does the classics, but also a range of less-familiar specialities with plenty of distinctive flavours.

110 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

24 JULY–3 AUG MERCHANT CITY FESTIVAL Various venues, Merchant City, merchantcityfestival. com The swanky part of town celebrates culture at this diverse festival, with comedy, theatre and art events, accompanied by lots of food and drink. 6–7 SEP LOCH LOMOND FOOD AND DRINK FESTIVAL Loch Lomond Shores, lochlomondfood anddrinkfestival.co.uk Tasty tipples and nibbles on the banks of Loch Lomond, with free cookery demonstrations and food markets plus tasting sessions and a real ale tent. 6–21 SEP SCOTTISH FOOD & DRINK FORTNIGHT Various venues, scottishfoodand drinkfortnight.co.uk Annual celebration of

FOOD SHOPS FANTOOSH FISH 537 Great Western Road, West End fb.com/FantooshFish GEORGE MEWES CHEESE 106 Byres Road, West End georgemewescheese.co.uk LOCAVORE 66 Nithsdale Road, Southside glasgowlocavore.org THE GOOD SPIRITS CO. 23 Bath Street, City Centre thegoodspiritsco.com HIPPO BEERS 128 Queen Margaret Drive, West End hippobeers.co.uk RODGERS BUTCHERS 180 Byres Road, West End rodgersbutchers.com ROOTS AND FRUITS 455–457 Great Western Road / 1137 Argyle Street, West End rootsfruitsandﬂowers.com

Scotland’s fantastic larder offering more than 200 festivals, farmers’ markets and tasting events around the country. 16–19 OCT OKTOBERFEST Glasgow Green, glasgowoktoberfest.co.uk Party like you’re in Bavaria, minus the plane fare. Drink the beer, eat the bratwurst, and grab a stein. 17–19 OCT BBC GOOD FOOD SHOW SCOTLAND SECC, glasgow. bbcgoodfoodshow.com The food and drink extravaganza heads north of the border again for another serving of celebrity chefs and star culinary attractions. Also, for Glasgow’s pop-up food and festival happenings: • Street Food Cartel events streetfoodcartel.com • Kiltr Feastivals kiltr.com

TIP/,67 HOT CHIPPIES GANDOLFI FISH TO GO 86 Albion Street, Merchant City, 0141 552 9475, cafegandolfi.com Sharing the fish restaurant’s kitchen, this typically classy offering from Gandolfi does cooked-to-order carryouts that are elevated by a professional touch. MARIO’S 3 Fenwick Road, Southside, 0141 633 1760 Giffnock favourite offering quality suppers, with chunky chips and large double fillets of haddock. MERCHANT CHIPPIE 155 High Street, Merchant City, 0141 552 5789, merchantchippieglasgow.co.uk Popular chip shop with quality favourites, including a great-value haddock supper, with biodegradable boxes, good mushies and lively service. PHILADELPHIA FISH AND CHICKEN BAR 445 Great Western Road, West End, 0141 339 2372 The long-standing Philly offers quality skin-on, bones-in haddock with cheerily swift service. Owned by La Parmigiana, so pizzas are good, too. WEE FRY 159 Milngavie Road, West End, 0141 942 8797 MacCallum’s of Troon’s suburban chippy offers top-quality suppers, ranging from haddock to langoustines and Thai fishcakes.

THE FAMOUS FEASTIVAL ON SUNDAY 25TH MAY 2014 A celebration of food, whisky, chocolate and music Have lunch with top Scottish chef Tom Kitchin Blend your own whisky with The Famous Grouse Master Blender Create delicious treats in our chocolate making masterclass Visit www.thefamousfeastival.net to book now!

The Famous Grouse Experience, Glenturret Distillery, The Hosh, Crieff, Perthshire, PH7 4HA, Scotland. Tel: 01764 656565 • Open 7 days. Guided tours available throughout the day. See website for details. Enjoy Responsibly www.drinkaware.co.uk

2 FOR 1

ON AN EXPERIENCE TOUR CHILDREN UNDER 12 GO FREE Visit www.list.co.uk/offers/ for details TLFF14 AT S C OT L A N D ’ S O L D E S T D I S T I L L E RY

VALID UNTIL 31.05.2014 • TERMS AND CONDITIONS APPLY

•

EST 1775

FARMERS’ & FOOD MARKETS • Glasgow Farmers’ Market Mansfield Park, Hyndland Street, citypropertyglasgow.co.uk/markets/farmers-markets 10am–2pm, second & fourth Saturday of the month • Glasgow Farmers’ Market Queen’s Park, entrance from Victoria Road citypropertyglasgow.co.uk/markets/farmers-markets 10am–2pm, first & third Saturday of the month • Paisley Farmers’ Market County Square, ayrshirefarmersmarket.co.uk 9am–1pm, second & last Saturday of the month • Lanarkshire Farmers’ Market Clarkston, Station Car Park, lanarkshirefarmersmarket.co.uk 9am–1pm, first & third Saturday of the month • Milngavie Farmers’ Market Douglas Street 10am–2pm, first Wednesday of the month

A MONTH OF BRILLIANT MOMENTS Packed with brilliant moments, Whisky Month 2014 is a celebration of Scotland’s national drink. Across the country, explore exciting events, highlighting the very best of Scotland’s food and drink, music and culture.

www.homecomingscotland.com/whiskymonth

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ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS Glasgow has a brilliant collection of arts venues and most of which do, at worst, a reasonable job in providing catering for visitors, too. While, for most, of course, this is not their primary function, this selection of eateries understandably offers a mixed bag in terms of setting and food served. All, however, manage to provide a decent cup of coffee at the very least, and many excel in the accompanying cake. There are a few surprises to be had in the unlikeliest of locations and, indeed, some spots are worth visiting for food alone. Reviewers: Michelle Flynn, Laura Muetzelfeldt

All That is Coffee South Block, 60 Osborne Street, City Centre (Map 7: B3, 38) 0141 271 4777, allthatissolid.co.uk | Closed Sat/Sun | £6 (lunch)

As you step inside, the smell of roast coffee, rich and full, is a pleasant assault and the steady stream of regulars proof the coffee is worth returning for. With the Dear Green Coffee roastery visible across the car park outside, it’s hard to find better examples of local sourcing; their Goosedubbs house blend is perfectly balanced and a guest blend is also on offer. Sandwiches – such as pastrami, Swiss cheese and dill pickle – are made fresh by Where the Monkey Sleeps and disappear fast. Handmade fruit and nuts bars come by way of the excellent Temper Chocolate, and cakes, such as orange and cranberry loaf, are hard to resist. The white, echoey space showcases regular exhibitions, but even with blank walls the café is a focus for artistic people of all types. Given its location and clientèle, it’s perhaps no surprise that the coffee here is a work of art. + Great care with every cup of coffee - Sandwiches limited after lunch

The Arches Café Bar & Restaurant 253 Argyle Street, City Centre (Map 6: D6, 123) 0141 565 1035, thearches.co.uk | Closed Sun (unless performance on) | £10 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

In the shadow of Central Station, under the railway arches which give the venue its name, the Arches is wonderfully schizophrenic. Sweat coats the walls and beats reverberate during club nights like Pressure – also the name of a cocktail in the bar. Theatre, performance art and gigs draw a different crowd, and the café/bar’s menu reflects this eclectic mix, ranging from bar snacks to refined dining. Alongside more traditional items is the already notorious pork and Buckfast burger served with hand-cut chips – skin on and deliciously earthy. Chicken fajitas arrive on a sizzling skillet with pots of sauces for self-assembly. Under a fleet of flying saucer lights, the tables nearest the bar are livelier, perfect for a pre-club drink. A more conventional restaurant set-up can be found towards the rear, where intriguingly odd pictures, and the classy Market Menu, remind diners this is part of a larger creative space. + Homemade salted caramel ice-cream gives a stellar performance - Outstanding starters almost make mains feel like understudies 112 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Emirates Arena Café: a gold standard operation from city council caterers Encore at the new sporting venue

4 Art Lover’s Café House for an Art Lover, Bellahouston Park, 10 Dumbreck Road, Southside (Map 8: B1, off) 0141 353 4779, houseforanartlover.co.uk | £11.99 (set lunch)

A kind of effortless elegance informs both the CR Mackintosh-designed building and the bistro it houses. Stylish without being stuffy, this is – from start to finish – an experience to be savoured. Starters arrive looking almost too good to eat: the asparagus, parmesan and baby leaf salad is delicious. Perfect flavour combinations abound and, thanks to skilfully made sauces, magically add up to more than the sum of their parts; the potato torte with sun-blushed tomato perfectly complements the grilled sea bass and creamed cabbage. For dessert, warm rice pudding with Armagnacsoaked prunes is both extravagant and comforting. Lighter options can be found by way of salads or the Café Lites menu, ideal for al-fresco dinning with a glass of chilled Sauvignon Blanc. With a nod to the Music Room upstairs, white tablecloths add to the charm, and charismatic 1920s-inspired condiment sets playfully add to the sense of place. Nothing is left to chance; noise-reducing ceiling tiles are more proof that the attention to detail Mackintosh put into his designs can also be found in abundance here. + Beautifully designed dishes that taste as good as they look - Longer opening hours would allow art lovers to linger longer

4 The Balcony Café Upstairs @ The Glasgow Climbing Centre, 534 Paisley Road West, Southside (Map 8: A1, off) 0141 427 9550, glasgowclimbingcentre.com | £5 (set lunch) / £8 (dinner)

If scaling a wall with only a rope for support doesn’t get your blood flowing then a meal at the Balcony Café certainly will. Chef Liam McAlpine loves to spice things up and regularly updates his mouthwatering menu to keep diners on their toes. And this modest eatery at

the top of the Glasgow Climbing Centre, a converted church, certainly packs a punch. Sandwiches with names like Joey Tribbiani (a pastrami and cheese feast) and Socrates, featuring falafel, hummus and tzatziki, are available on a variety of breads – including gluten/wheat free – and can come accompanied by a tasty soup for just a fiver. As well as the popular haggis nachos, the specials board showcases generously portioned main courses like cumberland sausage with chorizo mash, and chicken salad with Stor noway black pudding and roasted veg; all cooked from fresh on-site. Tapa coffee and a fab cake selection are well worth climbing (the stairs) for, too. + Watching climbers as you eat feels like being part of a performance art piece - Parking can be tricky at busy times

Bar Varia Snow Factor, Xscape, Kings Inch Road, Southside (Map 9B: A1, off) 0141 885 7078, snowfactor.com/activities/barvaria.php | £9 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

From its newspaper-style menu to a wall of vintage skis and DJ booth made from a Nevis Range Gondola, there’s something reassuring transportive about a visit to Bar Varia. Even more so because the chalet-style bar/restaurant is found at Xscape, a ‘family entertainment destination’ known predominately for generic restaurant chains. A window seat allows visitors to watch skiers and snowboarders hurtling (and, let’s be honest, make the occasional fall) down a real snow slope. Or adventurous types may prefer to burn some calories first then cross the slope-to-bar bridge to enjoy some après-ski. The beer list – arguably the best in the city – features more than 30 German beers and a host of others from across the globe, many sourced from the WEST Brewery in Glasgow. Burgers, pizza and pasta are menu standards but the two sharing platters, a filling feat of German sausages, sauerkraut, coleslaw, paprika fries and dips, offer a great introduction to Bavarian dining. + Free and easy parking – though take a

taxi so you can enjoy the beer list! - You might not have room for ‘Ann’s Big Smiler’, a legendary Nutella cheesecake

The Burrell Café The Burrell Collection, Pollok Country Park, 2060 Pollokshaws Rd, Southside (Map 8: A4, off) 0141 632 3910, glasgowmuseums.com | £10 (lunch)

If you’ve never taken time to visit the vast and eclectic collection on display at the Burrell Collection in Glasgow’s Pollok Country Park then, well, there’s no time like the present; the museum is due to close in 2016 ahead of a four-year revamp project. While you’re there, pop by the ground-floor café to enjoy amazing views out to the woodlands via panoramic floorto-ceiling windows. The food choices are standard lunch fare (hot food is available until 3.45pm) and served cafeteria style. Choose from a selection of packed sandwiches and two homemade soups, baked potatoes with hearty warm filings like haggis, veggie chilli and Spanish chicken stew, and generous servings of haddock and chips. Home-baking and pastries make a great accompaniment to smooth Matthew Algie coffee, and visitors can even enjoy of a glass of wine or a beer with lunch. How very European. + An ideal setting for a post-lunch walk - Menu could be more inventive

Café Source 1 St Andrew’s Square, Merchant City See Scottish

Café at GOMA Royal Exchange Square, Merchant City (Map 6: F5, 105) 0141 287 3058 | £4.95 (set lunch)

Thanks to Glasgow’s infamous Duke of Wellington statue (aye, the one with the traffic cone on its head), standing proudly outside the Gallery of Modern Art, this café is easy to find. A basement pitstop – tucked away in one of the city’s top visitor attractions – a short stroll away from the country’s busiest shopping street, yet it offers a peaceful hideaway from city life. It is frequented

ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS

In association with

4 HITLIST

of the cafe with sky and the courtyard beyond would be a strong draw in the summer. Cake, coffee and Suki teas are already popular with locals; the new menu (due to be introduced soon after press) might temp those from further afield. Dishes like confit of salmon and quesadilla were traditionally more West End than Maryhill. Not anymore. + Cakes Mary Berry would be proud of - Cosier seating might better complement the café’s community feel

The Doocot Café and Bar

ARTS VENUES 4 Art Lover’s Café Exquisite food, matching the best of Glasgow’s bistros, in a building designed by CR Mackintosh, pleasing art lovers and food lovers alike.

4 The Balcony Café The awesome and regularly updated sandwich menu is worth a visit alone, but the view often tempts visitors into climbing the walls. Literally.

4 The Edwardian Kitchen Restaurant With 1920s glamour in an informal dining setting coupled with refined dishes to match, lunching here is a special occasion. 4 The Hidden Lane Tea Room Heavenly home-baking and delightful afternoon teas make this tearoom worth seeking out, and then returning to, again and again.

4 Saramago Café Bar Vegan food that everyone will love. Saramago serves comforting, quality dishes in an effortlessly cool and arty environment.

by gallery and library visitors, regulars from offices nearby and even a writers’ group on Thursday evenings. There’s isn’t a huge menu to choose from but all the sandwiches and paninis are made on-site, and the homemade soup and sandwich deal is both tasty and good value at £4.95. A decent cake selection, including carrot cake and a section of tray bakes, as well as Wooden Spoon gluten-free biscuits, and a friendly welcome accompany the smooth Matthew Algie coffee. + The location, squarely in the centre of town - The size – bigger could mean a greater menu selection

Café Cossachok Trongate 103, 10 King Street, Merchant City See Round the World

Clean Plates Café Maryhill Burgh Halls, 10–24 Gairbraid Avenue, West End (Map 9A: H1, off) 0141 946 8392, maryhillburghhalls.org.uk/cafe | £5 (set lunch)

The historic stained-glass windows in Maryhill Burgh Halls picture bricklayers, blacksmiths and other workers previously local to Maryhill. A fitting detail as the hall was, in part, saved by local people. Moving with the times, it now houses – among other things – a recording studio and this quietly ambitious café. The all-day breakfasts are standard fare but the sandwiches betray daring aspirations: Parma ham, mozzarella and pesto on ciabatta. The seating areas are functional rather than homely – think bright lighting, expensive but robust chairs. However, near floor-to-ceiling windows flood part

The Lighthouse, 11 Mitchell Lane, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 112) 0141 276 5367, thelighthouse.co.uk/venue/eat | £7 (lunch)

If the dizzying view of Glasgow rooftops found at the top of the Lighthouse leaves you in need of an (effortlessly stylish) seat, this café/bar is worth a try. Twin strips of windows stretching the length of the high ceiling give the space an airy feel and generous gaps between tables safeguard any gossip shared over cappuccinos and carrot cake. The food is reliable albeit unchallenging; sandwiches, paninis and baked potatoes make up the majority of the straightforward menu. Here, the location and space are the star: the free exhibitions in Scotland’s Centre for Design and Architecture below are a surprising find just minutes from Buchanan Street and the Doocot (Scottish for ‘dovecote’) succeeds in being somewhere you could go for an afternoon date, as well as somewhere you could take your gran for a Malteaser slice. + Space to breathe next to Glasgow’s busiest shopping street - More sophisticated diners might be disappointed

leaner, fresher, healthier breed of stadium food – with not a burger in sight. This, along with seasonally inspired menus, helped it become the first leisure facility to achieve the admirable Gold Food for Life Catering Mark. Transparency – all ingredients for salads and sandwiches are visible – also allows for a tailor-made approach to taking on fuel between training sessions. And choice is key: virtuous tubs of fresh fruit sit beside jolly tubs of strawberry cheesecake. A commitment to quality ingredients is evident: Ayrshire ham, ribboned with thin strands of fat, is worlds away from squares found in supermarket packets; black olives are shrivelled and salty and sun-drenched with flavour; and a range of fresh past os made with organic flour. All this, along with the clean, modern design – and large window onto the arena itself – make this an appealing place to satisfy the appetite you’ve worked up while working out. + Mango Tango smoothie is Olympic standard - Closed during the Commonwealth Games (food vans will be outside)

THE

ART OF

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The Glad Café 1006a Pollokshaws Road, Southside See Cafés

Herald Café Bar Mitchell Library, North Street, West End (Map 9B: G2, 53) 0141 287 2917, glasgowlife.org.uk/libraries/themitchell-library/herald-cafe-bar/Pages/ home.aspx | Closed Sun | £7.50 (lunch)

This modern, welcoming space provides a bright escape for students, amateur genealogists and other visitors to one of the city’s most recognisable buildings. As well as the day’s newspapers, which

www.thegoodspiritsco.com

4 The Edwardian Kitchen Restaurant Pollok House, Pollok Country Park, 2060 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: A4, off) 0844 493 2202, nts.org.uk/Property/ Pollok-House | £17 (lunch)

Despite being tucked away in the servants’ quarters of Pollok House, the food here is definitely fit for the gaze of the oil paintings in the formal dining room upstairs. Reading the menu inspires anticipation; starters include baked camembert with red onion marmalade and warm toast. The actual food doesn’t disappoint; the sauce accompanying the grilled smoked haddock is flecked with mustard seeds and good enough to eat on its own. Daily specials include a racy ‘tart of the day’ and fresh soup, such as butternut squash and roasted pepper. Ingredients are, where possible, locally sourced and the menu is updated seasonally, incorporating food grown in the garden. Inside the restaurant, original features add to the charm of the already grand setting – a massive cast iron range occupies one wall of the Edwardian kitchen and pale green tiles climb to the ceiling, which supports an imposing 24-bulb chandelier. The art collection upstairs, including paintings by William Blake, and the extensive gardens complete the experience. Downstairs eating never tasted so good. + Indulge your inner countess with afternoon tea and bubbly - Lack of signage makes it hard to find

Emirates Arena Café 1000 London Road, Southside (Map 7: B5, off) 0141 287 7000, encorehospitalityservices.co.uk/Venues/ Emirates-Arena | £5.45 (set lunch)

It’s not always listed on the menu, but they do serve chips. Not noteworthy for a stadium eatery, perhaps, but worth mentioning here as Emirates Arena Café, run by Glasgow CIty Council caterers Encore, is setting the pace for a new

a place for everyone www.nts.org.uk

THE EDWARDIAN KITCHEN RESTAURANT Open daily 10am–5pm

Enjoy a delicious lunch, afternoon tea or home-baking in the atmospheric setting of the Edwardian kitchen at Pollok House - Scotland’s answer to Downton Abbey!

Pollok Country Park, 2060 Pollokshaws Road, Glasgow, G43 1AT 0844 493 2202 The National Trust for Scotland for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty is a charity registered in Scotland, Charity Number SC 007410

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seems apt as the Glasgow paper helped fund the Herald Café’s refurbishment in 2007, patrons can enjoy various hot dishes such as warm potato and chorizo salad, generous melting brie and sundried tomato on a potato, filling pasta dishes, and selection of omelettes. Breakfast, served until 11.45am, looks after early risers and there is an array of club sandwiches, two homemade soups and paninis for diners needing a quick bite. The cake selection is seriously tempting, too. Look out for collaborations between the library team and the eatery following a sell-out pilot scheme in early 2014, which combined guided library tours in a package with a tasty afternoon tea. + Floor-to-ceiling windows - Busy with babies on Monday after library play sessions

4 The Hidden Lane Tearoom 8 Argyle Court, 1103 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 31) 0141 237 4391, thehiddenlanetearoom.blogspot. com | £6.50 (lunch)

Mismatched patterned teapots and harlequin sets of chairs create a perfect setting for afternoon tea in this secretive lane near Kelvingrove. Dainty sandwiches, cream-filled meringues and miniature cakes are served on vintage tiered cake stands. All made in-house, apart from wheat-free options, they are what people dream of when someone says afternoon tea: moist, delicious, crumbly and moreish. The gluten-free cakes are some of the best around, expertly baked locally by Amo Torta. As with the décor, care and attention to detail prevails in all things, from swirling frosting on red velvet cupcakes to sandwiches such as hummus, grated carrot and beetroot. A generous selection of tea, all from Tchai-Ovna, includes the Yogo Yogi Chai, milky-sweet and lovingly spiced. A recent expansion created more gallery space and pictures add to the charming quirkiness, but it’s for the home baking that you’ll return. The kind of place you’ll want to shout about, but won’t, in case next time there are no seats. + Finger sandwiches and homemade mini sweet treats - Somewhere to linger rather than stop for a quick bite

KG Café Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, Kelvingrove Park, Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 2) 0141 276 9530, encorehospitalityservices.co.uk | £12 (lunch)

Arguably one of Europe’s best-loved museums, Kelvingrove is home to countless interactive exhibits with the playful use of technology. This spirit continues in the café, where customers can use handheld pods to summon staff at the push of a button. Just as the proud tradition of Scottish art is represented upstairs, so traditional Scottish dishes are celebrated here. In Cullen skink, smoked haddock and vegetables combine in a hearty chowder, while cranachan, the Scottish dessert that should be better-known, is thick and creamy, with muddled raspberries and a splash of whisky. But, like the galleries above, a well-judged mix of national and global interests prevails. Baked broccoli and blue cheese tart sits alongside haggis, neeps and tatties. Fish and chips is popular, as is the excellent grilled Cajun salmon fillet. Although the lunch menu stops at 3pm, soup, sandwiches, and pastries are available till 4pm, leaving time to find Dali’s dizzying Christ of Saint John of the Cross or to gaze up at Sir Roger, the elephant. + Sitting in the warm conservatory 114 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

when it’s raining - No outside seating for when it’s sunny

The Pipers’ Tryst The National Piping Centre, 30–34 McPhater Street, City Centre (Map 6: E1, 28) 0141 353 5551, thepipingcentre. co.uk | Closed Sun | £9.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Bagpipes may have the Marmite effect on even the staunchest of Scots but the restaurant attached to The National Piping Centre, with a menu packed full of crowd-pleasing dishes and locally sourced produce, should win anyone over. Starters are substantial but not stodgy, including a hearty Cullen skink, a game terrine flavoured with pistachio and apricot, and a perfectly portioned haggis, neeps and tatties (veggies can enjoy a spiced lentil and bean version). The ‘Taste of Scotland’ platters, a fairly recent addition, are also a great way to share a selection of the most popular offerings. As well as plenty of fish mains (the supper of the day is worth singling out), there is a wonderfully comforting macaroni cheese with Arran cheddar and a reasonably priced sirloin steak (£13.95) with garlic mashed potatoes. The occasional live traditional session takes place in the restaurant, particularly each Thursday during Whisky Month (May), but usually the musical accompaniment is laid-back modern Scottish pop. + The pre-theatre menu - Can be a little cool inside if inclement outside

Riverside Café Riverside Museum, 100 Pointhouse Place, West End (Map 9B: A1, off) 0141 287 2720, encorehospitalityservices. co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch)

The main café for the renamed Transport Museum occupies a corner at the back, overlooking the Clyde. The view is spectacular: a Tall Ship moored outside and, further east, the Science Centre reflecting the ever-changing Glasgow sky. As you’d expect inside this instantly iconic building, the café is architecturally interesting; one wall, two stories high, is all window. Cafeteriastyle tables and chairs reflect the large amount of traffic, but everything is clean and new. The impressively varied menu offers something for everyone: lighter bites range from caesar salad to soup and pies; sandwiches, such as peppered pastrami, are made to order, and the kids’ menu is very popular. Mains, such as Italian lamb stew, are filling and straightforward. Desserts pack a bigger punch – crack the sugar on the crème brûlée and you’re in for a treat. Cakes are also available at the first floor café, along with kids’ lunch boxes and sandwiches. Although smaller, equally dramatic views make this a comfortable place to rest after pretending to drive old subway cars in the European Museum of the Year 2013. + Spectacular views of the Clyde - Hard to find as signs are a little confusing

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps and links, go to

food.list.co.uk

St Mungo Museum Café 2 Castle Street, East End (Map 7: D1, off) 0141 276 1627, glasgowlife.org | Closed Mon | £4.50 (set lunch)

Religious contemplation, art appreciation and historical musings aren’t the typical backdrops to conversations in a City Centre café, but with a breathtaking Peter Howson artwork hanging in the gallery, a rare viewpoint of the Necropolis and a location in the heart of medieval Glasgow, the St Mungo Museum of Religious Life and Art offers more than the casual visitor might expect. The same rings true of its ground-floor eatery with handsome arched windows allowing views out to the serene Zen Garden. Standard lunchtime fare includes baked potatoes, paninis and a soup and sandwich deal, featuring a range of filings and homemade soups, and all available at a reasonable price. But the menu also contains a few noteworthy hot meals (served until 3.30pm) like a hearty quiche lorraine, vegetable and chickpea curry and stovies with crusty bread. Smooth coffee and a tempting cake selection – especially the caramel shortcake – also hit the spot. + A quiet spot in the centre of town - The Scottish climate doesn’t permit sitting in the Zen Garden all that often

4 Saramago Café Bar CCA, 350 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: B2, 17) 0141 352 4920, cca-glasgow.com/cafe | £12.50 (lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

Teeter down the steep hill from Glasgow School of Art and you’ll find the CCA, a constantly-evolving space that’s not just about contemporary art; as well as galleries, bookshop and club nights, it’s host to the well-travelled Saramago. Although the vegan menu has a Mediterranean bias, this café/bar is not afraid to roam the world, and you’ll be glad they did. The Morroccan tagine is a warming blend of spices, chickpeas and butternut squash served with tabbouleh starred with ruby-red pomegranate seeds. Deeply satisfying gnocchi arrabiata from Italy might follow salty edamame beans from Japan. Cashew and almond dukka sits alongside haggis fritters. The handcut potato chips are some of the best around and there are puddings you won’t want to share, such as poached pears in spiced red wine. Despite cavernous ceilings, there’s a warm, cosy feel; staff are friendly, with the ease of a laid-back but efficient host. With the upstairs bar providing a livelier setting for drinks (and the same menu), you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d travelled a lot further than Sauchiehall Street. + Comforting food, perfectly cooked - Limited morning menu

The Tea Room at the Botanics Botanic Gardens, 730 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: D1, off) 0141 276 1640, encorehospitalityservices. co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch)

Busy weekend and summer lunchtimes are proof this tearoom’s firmly claimed its place on the West End café circuit. Efficient use is made of inside space and gallery-white walls showcase regular exhibitions by local artists. But it’s sitting outside, on ornate metal chairs, that make this such a popular summer destination. Dogs are welcome in this area and there’s space to park a buggy after wee ones have run themselves in circles on the main lawn, which doubles up as a beach given more than five minutes’ sunshine. Reliable food includes soup, decent sandwiches and macaroni cheese for the kids. Plus, with Loch Fyne smoked salmon and

scrambled eggs on toast, and roast ham and Arran mustard sandwiches on offer, it’s clear the menu has been created with sourcing locally in mind. For those with a sweet tooth, try brightly coloured cupcakes, meringues or ice-cream and, after refuelling, the lovingly restored Kibble Palace is nearby, where a world of botanical wonders await the curious. + A relaxing way to enjoy the leafy location on sunny days - Can get busy inside on rainy days

Tramway Café Bar 25 Albert Drive, Southside (Map 8: D1, 1) 0141 276 0953, tramway.org/Pages/ cafe-bar.aspx | Closed Mon | £6.50 (set lunch)

Found at the rear of one of the country’s most recognised art-spaces, this roomy yet intimate café-bar attracts an eclectic range of patrons. Mums’ groups utilise the row of high chairs, ballet dancers refuel after rehearsals (Scottish Ballet’s HQ is upstairs), and even churchgoers from nearby St Ninian’s enjoy a postservice coffee and cake. The venue’s broad appeal is reflected in a relaxed menu of breakfast choices, including plenty of veggie options, served until noon. Homemade soups and generously filled sandwiches, as well as a range of burgers and salads are freshly prepared in-house and available the rest of the day. Seasonal specials are noted on the board but the tasty halloumi salad with roast vegetables is certainly worth a mention. If it’s sunny then opt to have you order served outdoors at The Hidden Gardens, its award-winning sanctuary. + Lots of veggie options - Closed on Mondays

Tron Theatre 63 Trongate, Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 37) 0141 552 8587, tron.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

The Tron is much more than a theatre space; it’s a Glasgow institution. As well as a base for the Tron Theatre Company, this vibrant venue provides a home to a broad programme of theatre, comedy and music. Visitors are well looked after at its eatery, a stylish meet-up spot in the heart of the city. The service is welcomingly laid-back yet efficient; the music choices, like gentle indie rock from Gomez, provide a relaxed but thoughtful accompaniment; and, importantly for Glasgow’s foodies, the locally sourced menu also offers a deviation from the norm in terms of dishes and layout. Lunchtime bites of ciabatta sandwiches and baked potatoes sit alongside the regular menu of ‘small plates’ cum starters – such as tasty garlic, chilli and lemon mushrooms on toast, ‘big plates’, including hangover-busting ham, eggs and chips, and substantial pepper and goat’s cheese frittata, and burgers, available with a full gambit of toppings. Meaning whatever your appetite or time frame, there’s something to suit. + The new pre-theatre offerings - Finding a table can be tricky pre-show

Wild Cabaret & Wicked Lounge 18 Candleriggs, Merchant City See Bars & Pubs

The Willow Tea Rooms 217 Sauchiehall Street (Map 6: D2, 44) 0141 332 0521, willowtearooms.co.uk | £12 (lunch)

Feel like a tourist at home by dining at The Willow Tea Rooms. The building, designed inside and out by Charles Rennie Mackintosh in the early 1900s, forms an integral part of architectural history and is a great insight into his work. But the eatery’s afternoon tea is almost as appealing. Finger sandwiches,

ARTS VENUES & ATTRACTIONS

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GLASGOW

including a classic cucumber, tasty cakes, meringues and one of the finest scones the city has to offer; all washed down with a selection of more than 25 varieties of loose leaf teas. There is even a kids version for little ladies (and gents) that lunch. Breakfast, such as yummy pancakes with fruit and maple syrup, is served all day. The menu also features standard lunch choices (baked potatoes and sandwiches) and a range of Scottish dishes. Everything is created using a bounty of local produce and favourites include the Arbroath Smokie, served with optional clootie dumpling, and a new addition, mince and tatties. + With some prior notice, afternoon tea can be tailored to meet any dietary requirements - The Grade A building is in need of a bit of TLC

The Willow Tea Rooms 97 Buchanan Street, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 119) 0141 204 5242, willowtearooms. co.uk |

A touch of elegance pervades at this loving recreation of the White Dining Room, originally designed for Miss Cranston by CR Mackintosh. Poised, tall-backed chairs contrast with white wood panelling and lime-green art nouveau panels. Afternoon tea is a favourite, especially with mothers and daughters taking a break from the frenetic shops; crust-less triangles, home-baking and champagne make this destination for tourists also and, in the Blue Chinese room upstairs, classy hen nights. Savoury options like baked potato with chilli are hugely satisfying and gluten-free alternatives, such as scones with cream and jam, are available. It can get busy because of the location but the experience is worth the wait. Part of the fun is the process: remembering to use the strainer, the smell of jasmine or Kenya leaves, the clink of teacup on saucer. As it should be, tea here is an event. + Friendly waiting staff in Edwardian outfits - Waiting for a table if you forget to book

BARS & PUBS It’s been a busy old year on the Glasgow bar scene, with arguably the biggest year in the city’s recent history laying the foundations of opportunity. As the city’s food and drink offerings have improved and grown, so has the bar and pub scene, now offering some great, fresh food and quality refreshments. No longer are sad burgers or fish ’n’ chips the only choices for customers. There is now a scene thriving with exciting, ambitious independent operators, serving up cracking food, washed down with an ever-growing selection of fine craft beers, real ales and quality wines – not to mention some of the finest entertainment around. As opportunity knocks, Glasgow’s bars and pubs seem to be delivering. Reviewers: Laura Forsyth, Piers Hunt, David Kirkwood, David McPhee, Emma O’Bryen, Kevin Scott, Fraser Wilson

Ad Lib 111 Hope Street, City Centre See North American

The Admiral 72a Waterloo Street, City Centre (Map 6: C4, 82) 0141 221 7705, theadmiralbar. com | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

As numerous bars across this fair city attempt to do many things at once, few could claim to be doing it quite as successfully as the Admiral on Waterloo Street. It seems to comfortably court all sections of society at once and a cursory glance around the bar will take in professionals, hipsters, students and devoted regulars. Its city centre location makes it ideal for a quick pint before the train home or a place to grab a bite to eat while watching some football. Where it deserves a hearty salute is in its provision for the music lover. Downstairs

it hosts popular club nights at least once each weekend and has many fresh and established bands strumming for your listening pleasure. + Great place to watch the football with a beer - More bar stools would be handy

The Arches Café Bar & Restaurant 253 Argyle Street, City Centre See Arts Venues

Baby Grand 3–7 Elmbank Gardens, City Centre See Bistros & Brasseries

Bar Gumbo 71–77 Byres Road, West End See North American

Bar Varia Snow Factor, Xscape, Kings Inch Road, Southside See Arts Venues

4 Bar Gandolfi 64 Albion Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 18) 0141 552 6813, cafegandolfi.com | No Kids | £19 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

The wee sister of long-term Glasgow culinary heavyweight Café Gandolfi, this wooden-clad attic hideout is a real gem in the Merchant City. High quality food is what the Gandolfi name is renowned for and it is the same food on offer in the café that you’ll find in the bar, just in more relaxed surroundings. This is coupled with a comprehensive pizza menu and well-informed staff. A variety of dishes on offer utilise the best of the Scottish larder, influenced by an ItalianAmerican style – and dishes come with a wine recommendation from their long and thoughtful list. The setting is worth a mention, with beautifully crafted wood stools and tables setting the tone, and a high, wide wooden bar providing an ideal vantage on the well-stocked provisions. Entertainment comes in the form of live music and gallery space with rotating artist contributions. + Top quality food and setting - Can be quiet mid-week

Bar 91 91 Candleriggs, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 23) 0141 552 5211, bar91.co.uk | £11.50 (lunch) / £11.50 (dinner)

Bar 91 nestles inconspicuously into the Candleriggs, but inside is airy, with stone floor and bare brick lending a minimal, industrial feel, and in the event of sunny weather the whole frontage opens out, colonising the street. The emphasis is on good food and craft beers, old favourites from WEST brewery on tap along with rarities rotated in, such as Innes & Gunn or the wickedly strong Weisenbock wheat beer. At night, regular DJs liven up the bustling bar, where brass sculptures hang over an impressive array of spirits, while daytime offers a more relaxed experience. Burgers are the main event, made to the same recipe for 20 years, irregular hand-made patties using beef from their favourite butcher. Pulled pork is slow-cooked in the back along with the roast for the ‘best ever’ beef sandwich. The evening menu swaps lunchtime sandwiches for pizzas, spicy beans and falafel. Best ever? Pretty close. + Juicy fresh burger with a good pint - Sliced pork rather than pulled pork

Bar Soba • 11 Mitchell Lane, City Centre • 116–122 Byres Road, West End See Far East

Bar Ten 10 Mitchell Lane, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 113) 0141 572 1448, navantaverns.com/ bar10 | No Kids | £6.25 (set lunch) / £10 (dinner)

A funky little bar tucked away just off Buchanan Street, there’s more to Bar Ten than the beer. The building is listed, with an interior designed by artist Ben Kelly,

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CALLING

TIME ON BAD BOOZE

www.thegoodspiritsco.com Brel (page 118): great Belgian beers and quality food at this popular bar on Ashton Lane, with al fresco options The List Eating & Drinking Guide 115

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TABLE Talk

WARREN BADER ON BEES AND THE BUTTERY I manage beehives, and I look after the two beehives on the roof of Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery. The restaurant benefits from having its own hives, of course, as they end up with a unique product for use in recipes. But more than that, having a beehive shows a commitment to sustainability and customers appreciate that. I first became interested in bees through growing heritage fruits and vegetables. I grew all sorts such as the Carse of Gowrie and the Bloody Ploughman apples. I started reading about all these disappearing heritage fruits. The Clyde Valley used to be filled with wonderful orchards. They have almost all gone. It seemed to all come down to the bees. Fruit farms are dependent on bees and modern farming makes it so hard for them. Fields are vast and they are cultivated right up to the very edges instead of having thick borders of natural wild flowers. I felt something had to be done to support biodiversity. So I gave up my job in advertising and started Plan Bee, a beehive managing business. We had 40 hives in the first year, 124 in the second and 500 in the third. Bees love cities as there is a great diversity of flowers and weeds. We owe a debt to the natural world – Glasgow’s wealth was built on nature: a river, tobacco, cotton and coal. I believe if we put the needs of nature first we will all benefit. There is a huge wisdom to be gained from bees. Although they are all individuals, the hive functions as a super organism. Decisions are made on the basis of what is best for the hive – where to forage and what kind of nectar to seek, for example. Humans could benefit from being more like bees. Q Warren Bader runs Plan Bee, a beehive management business. planbeeltd.com (See page 153 for The Buttery.

116 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Bloc+: Bath Street basement bar offering a lively atmosphere for enjoying bargain deals on pizzas and burgers

and, being across the lane from the Lighthouse, it’s clear that Bar Ten takes its art very seriously. Hosting regular exhibitions by local artists, the monthly launch parties are a big event in the bar’s calendar. There are some great local beers on tap, while the cocktails, a few classics and a couple invented by the bar staff themselves, are boozy enough to raise an eyebrow – and a grin. Food runs to burgers, sandwiches and chilli nachos, homemade and simply done, with a select few plates available all night as ‘late bites’, handy when the weekend can see DJs on until midnight. A great little hang-out for those in the know. + Bar staff know how to mix a cocktail - Some saggy old seating

The Bath Street Palomino 207 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 21) 0141 221 9444, bathstreetpalomino. co.uk | £9 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Slightly off the beaten track but well placed for both lunching shoppers and theatre-goers, this is a bar worth seeking out. Decked out like a swish cocktail bar – and serving excellent mixed drinks such as the Fennel Destination with rum and fennel flavours in a martini glass, or the Nutkraker, a long drink of fresh strawberries and cracked pepper – it would be easy, and very unfortunate, to miss the real star of the show: the imported US pit-oven. Whether it’s the Korean-style pork belly, ginger-rubbed beef brisket, or, for the real meatheads, the tasting smoke plate, the food is beautifully juicy, blackened and suffused with delicious smoky, barbecued flavour. Everything is served with the house coleslaw and pickle, but the deep-fried pickle just has to be tried, while a fresh, full-bodied Boston lager on tap keeps the North American theme going. + Exciting cocktails and meaty menu - Baked cheesecake baked a little too long

The Belle 617 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: E1, 59) 0141 339 2299 |

A welcome haven in what is a rather quiet stretch of Great Western Road; the Belle occupies a space within the West End consciousness like very few other bars. Due to its popularity, acquiring a table can at times be a trial in public relations, but once attained the exertion

is entirely worthwhile. The roaring fire and dog-friendly attitude makes for a relaxing atmosphere in which to enjoy a pint, namely San Francisco’s Anchor Steam which you’d be unlikely to see elsewhere. The wine and malt selections are broad (if slightly on the pricey side); however, the rotating malt of the month will do little damage to your finances. A cosy little bar with bags of character that has the feel of a country pub while still retaining its West End credentials. + Worth visiting for the Anchor Steam alone - It can be tricky to get a seat

The Ben Nevis 1147 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 23) 0141 576 5204, thebennevis. co.uk | No Kids

Taking pride of place on the corner of the lively Finnieston area, the Ben Nevis is home to an outstanding range of whiskies alongside some interesting rums and beers. Once inside, it’s easy to imagine you have stepped into a pub deep in the Scottish mountains with conversation flowing between jolly locals and walkers who have stopped in for a top-up. The authentic Scottish Folk music sets a relaxed and friendly tone, and the fire burns quietly in the corner – all that’s needed is to arm yourself with a good Scottish dram to put some warmth in your chest. Whisky lovers will appreciate the range selected from all corners of the country, but those who prefer a pint will be easily satisfied with the variety of ales from local breweries. + Range of whiskies - Some simple nibbles would entice some to stay longer

Beresford Lounge 468 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: B2, 2) 141 331 2003, beresfordlounge. com | £10 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

What was the nearby GSA’s union bar while building work was being done up the hill is now a bar focusing on beer promos, good-value pub grub and live music with bands and open mic nights taking place further back in a venue that includes a mezzanine and pool table. The art deco styling chimes well around here, with the Beresford building towering above and Variety Bar and King’s Café chippy round the corner. Beresford Lounge wears its stated American 1920s

theme fairly lightly, certainly the menu offers up much more contemporary bar favourites including pizzas, burgers, wings and hots dogs, as well as afternoon tea. A spot that has always been prime for groups starting the nightlife gauntlet that is this stretch of town looks set to keep drinkers and diners coming through the door, or utilising the outdoor areas when the sun bothers itself. + Deals on beers - Concept not quite carried off

Black Rabbit 526 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: E1, 61) 0141 339 1199 | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Everyone knows noisy neighbours are a pain, but it’s the quiet, unassuming ones you have to watch out for. And that’s certainly the case with the Great Western Road big boys, while the softly spoken Black Rabbit quietly serves up tasty bar food, fine beers, and a funky pre-night out warm up. Pizzas and burgers are the speciality in this small venue, which whispers out charming music, a relaxed environment and fine drink for students and young professionals alike. Come seven o’clock and the volume goes up a notch as does the intensity, with live DJs and other entertainment providing the ideal pre-game for those looking to go out in nearby clubs. Well priced, Black Rabbit offers good value for money and is the café culture at its finest – a bar, restaurant, coffee shop and place to chill. + Great pub grub - DJ can be loud in such confines

Black Sparrow 241 North Street, City Centre (Map 9B: G2, 50) 0141 221 5530, theblacksparrow. co.uk | £15.50 (lunch) / £15.50 (dinner)

Intriguingly dark and a little mysterious from the outside, the Black Sparrow is a cool local bar worth a visit on your way into the City Centre. The interior instantly sets a moody and relaxed tone reflected in the schmoozy music. Studded leather booths downstairs with decadent chandeliers hanging from the high ceilings, this place feels reminiscent of a traditional New York bar. Contemporary aspects like the eclectic equestrian art and grand mezzanine level add a modern twist. The majestic bar stretches down the length of the room, exposing exotic rums, tequilas, whiskies amid other interesting

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spirits. Traditional pub grub is modest but satisfying; the blue sparrow burger with blue cheese, caramelised onions and bacon is a treat. Or the slow-roast pork belly is a rich and generous alternative. Be sure to have a beer and catch some rare summer sun when it arrives in the beer garden at the back. + Impressive range of spirits - Menu is modest pub grub

4 HITLIST

117 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 39) 0141 574 6066, bloc.ru | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Blue Dog 151 West George Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 76) 0141 229 0707, bluedogglasgow.com | No Kids

While many Glasgow bars have a cocktail menu, Blue Dog is a bona fide cocktail bar, with all the bottletwirling, glass-flaming theatre that goes with it. Open until 3am, but certainly more intimate and civilised than most late-night City Centre haunts, there is entertainment most nights, be it a live pianist or a magician working close-up from table to table. In the low-lit, sultry space the eye is drawn to the dizzying array of obscure spirits and extravagant liqueurs behind the bar. Drinks range from long, sweet, colourful concoctions to the 3 Wood Old-fashioned, a dark, smoky mix of bourbon, sours and orange peel. Staff are well-versed in the language of cocktails, and are happy to mix off-menu, while there is a sly humour in the signature Blue Dog, which looks just like a Slush Puppy. + Sophisticated and intimate - Mixing drinks can slow down service when busy

Bobar 383 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: D1, 52) 0141 341 6516, bovinerestaurant. com/essentials/bobar | £6.95 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Connected to the Hilton Hotel on Byres Road, you expect a serving of class in this well-furnished and elegantly decorated bar. This clean, mellow watering hole offers a fantastic range of cocktails and wines as a fancy stop off before any West End clubbing jaunts or as a low-key resting point during the afternoon with the family. The recently downsized menu mainly consists of burgers, sandwiches and sides but the limited selection of cuisine is presented well and in hearty portions. Although the food may not match the ambience of the place, it still makes for an enjoyable evening for a classy drink and light chatter. Staff seem eager to help when approached and are very skilled in their drink-making as evidenced by some

LOUNGE

LIve Music

Bloc+

A former art gallery on the popular Bath Street, Bloc+ has been a regular haunt for students and office workers since the turn of the century. A fine establishment that ticks all the boxes for an inexpensive bite to eat and good beer in a convivial atmosphere with mates, Bloc+ offers top-notch pizzas, burgers and hot dogs. And, with the hot sauce and spice revolution sweeping Glasgow’s more niche corners, you can add a little fire with the help of the kitchen staff. Their hellboy dog is certainly tasty, although lacked the spicy punch that hardened heat-lovers need to create a tear in their eye. Knowledgeable and attentive staff, fine background music, a cool atmosphere and regular bargain food deals make this a handy nugget to keep stored away if lacking inspiration for a place to imbibe and enjoy. Bloc on. + Atmosphere - Carb-free food

BErESFOrD OV THREE FLOORS OVER 7 NIGHTS A WEEK

BARS & PUBS 4 Bar Gandolfi A by-product of one of Glasgow’s favourite restaurants, the bar operation of the Gandolfi stable expertly serves up great food in a relaxed and captivating interior.

4 Chinaski’s A whiskey-soaked love letter to Charles Bukowski, serving quirky, style-driven food, premium beer and the finest bourbons.

4 Den Bar & Restaurant The commitment to restaurant quality food in a bar environment is exhibited in the quality of well-sourced ingredients amid a stylish backdrop.

4 Lebowskis Good beers and great US-style bar food, all with a careful eye on provenance and quality – and more white Russians than even the Dude could put away.

4 Meat Bar This basement bar has a meat obsession and an unashamed dedication to mouthwatering burgers and steaks, served with flavour and aesthetics in mind.

4 Mono Music, food and literature unite in this unique and vibrant bar where all dishes are homemade, inventive and above all vegetarian.

da Nee ue? n veREE HLIVIREEB!!ANDS F FER FOR D OF WE ND FOO 250 A P TO E U PL PEO

Mondays

OPEN STAGE SESSIONS FROM 7PM, O & LIVE COMEDY ON MEZZANINE

Tuesdays

TROUBADOUR TUESDAY SESSIONS FROM 6PM, & LIVE COMEDY ON MEZZANINE

Wednesdays

BLUES JAM FROM 7PM & LIVE COMEDY ON MEZZANINE POLISH WEDNESDAY WITH POLISH DJS, BEERS & VODKA

Thursdays

LIVE JAZZ + ALTERNATING GIGS, SESSIONS ON A RUG (ACOUSTIC) IN THE LIVE LOUNGE AND CURRY KARAOKE

Fridays

ALTERNATING GIGS, ACOUSTIC SESSIONS + DJS FROM 6PM

Saturdays

SNAKESKIN BOOGIE FROM 4PM ALTERNATING GIGS + ACOUSTIC SESSIONS, LIVE COVER SETS FROM KNOWN BANDS FROM 2PM + DJS FROM 6PM

Sundays

ALTERNATING BETWEEN BYERS ROAD BIG BAND AND THE ROCKABILLY BAND FROM 2–6PM + OPEN MIC FROM HAZY DAYS FROM 4PM LIVE FOLK BAND FROM 3PM + REGGAE NIGHT FROM 7PM

4 The Pacific Grass skirts, garlands and sand beneath your feet are the only things missing from this exciting Polynesian-themed West End newcomer.

4 The Squid and Whale With one of the finest selections of beers in town, this Kelvinbridge bar serves up a different slice of Americana, bringing the Deep South to the West End.

4 WEST Brewery Unique surroundings, fantastic beer, and great food – the mix of German and Scottish culture works incredibly well at this warm, welcoming and comfortable brewery bar.

of the flavoursome creations produced behind the bar and the smiling faces in front of it. + Relaxed and classy setting - Food not matching the setting

La Boca 189 Hope Street, City Centre See Spanish

La Bodega Tapas Bar

Budweiser

£2 ALL DAY, EVERYDAY

Cocktails £3.95

COCKTAIL CLASSES EVERY FRIDAY American Diner Menu BEEF CHILLI | PULLED PORK PIZZAS & BURGERS

BREAKFAST 10AM EVERY SATURDAY & SUNDAY LUNCH 12PM FRIDAY, SATURDAY & SUNDAY

468 SAUCHIEHALL STREET | GLASGOW | G2 3LW 0141 331 2003 | BERESFORDLOUNGE.CO.UK \BERESFORDLOUNGE

1120 South Street, West End See Spanish The List Eating & Drinking Guide 117

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GLASGOW

Booly Mardy’s 28 Vinicombe Street, West End (Map 9A: D1, 51) 0141 560 8004, bloodymarys. co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Amid the vibrant and eclectic West End, Booly Mardy’s sets the bar high for a great cocktail. Inside is simple and understated, letting the well-stocked gantry do the talking. The impressive range of spirits provides the basis for the decadent array of top-notch cocktails. The drinks menu boasts an educated array of cocktails aided with a taste map to help you decide what you’re in the mood for. El Presidente is a rum based cocktail, mixed with vermouth, triple sec, grenadine and bitters – totally moreish and utter bliss. The twists on a classic Bloody Mary are well worth a try, particularly for a refreshing pick-me-up on a Sunday morning. The food menu is a straightforward diner-pub selection with something for everyone. Burgers come with a light brioche bun, salad, hand-cut chips and Booly Mardy’s relish – a generous portion size without being too heavy. The outdoor seating is used year round as it enjoys a little suntrap to relax and watch the world go by. + Range of cocktails - Can be a touch pricey

Boteco do Brasil 62 Trongate, Merchant City See Round the World

Boudoir Wine Bar Merchant Square, Candleriggs, City Centre (Map 7: C2, 20) 0141 552 4774, boudoirwinebar.com | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Situated in the Candleriggs area, attached to Merchant Square, Boudoir Wine Bar is, as the name suggests, a romantic and sultry abode. Attracting the local cosmopolitan crowd, both the younger and the wiser will feel at home here. The wine list consists of a wonderful range of old world classics from France and Italy mixed with some more contemporary new world wines from around the globe. Many wines are available by the glass, or alternatively the wine samplers are a great option offering four 100ml glasses of red, white or two of each for those who want to experiment a little. A modest food menu comprises of cheese and charcuterie options that delicately complement the wines. Cocktails are also worth a try, as is the European beer selection. Live acoustic performances add to the continental wine bar vibe in the evening. A sophisticated and elegant wine bar without being intimidating or overpriced. + Affordable, approachable wine list - Live music can feel a little too loud for romance

The Brass Monkey 1004 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: E3, 37) 0141 243 2170, thebrassmonkeyglasgow.co.uk | No Kids

Located on the currently buzzing Finnieston strip, the Brass Monkey is a cool little corner bar, dedicated to boozing for the connoisseur. With eleven beers on tap, it surely has one of the finest selections of beer in the city. It’s certainly one of the only places where you can find Thistly Cross cider, Fyne Sanda Blonde or Budvar Half and Half on draught. Behind the artfully backlit bar is a truly formidable array of spirits, with not a mainstream brand among them. Cocktails are a treat, a tight menu of unusual concoctions with one always available at £5 as cocktail of the week. Bright and sunny during the day, at night it is low-lit and all dark leather and exposed stone, perfect for relaxing with a single malt. 118 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

LIttle Urban Achievers Club (page 124): a more student-friendly offering from the dudes behind Lebowskis + Fantastic choice of beers - Décor not unique for this street

Brel 39–43 Ashton Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 31) 0141 342 4966, brelbar.com | £8 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Brel prides itself on top-quality beer and succeeds in offering the best Europe and the world has to offer to the welcome taste buds of its mixed clientele. In tribute to the establishment’s namesake Jacques Brel, they have a plush selection of Belgian beer including Delirium Tremens, whose 8.5% explains the translation ‘shaking frenzy’, or as we know them here, the dreaded DTs. They also have the best that Scotland has to offer with Kelburn ales by the pint, which combined with a steaming pot of moules frites from the enticing bistro menu will have many a diner singing this bar’s praises . . . and possibly singing in the street. Food ranges from light bites and sharers such as baked whole cheese for dipping into to comforting classic mains. The conservatory brings the outside inside without the irritation of Glasgow’s erratic climate, and the garden offers plenty of outdoor seating when the sun graces us with its thermic presence. + Super side dishes - Some ‘big’ mains can be rather small

offers, which are packed full of quality and flavour. This place is great for a mellow Sunday session to ease you back into the week or for a catch-up with friends. You can leave your suits and tie at home for this one as the brick walls, warm wooden furnishing and banterous staff define the Brewdog brand as a friendly, approachable watering hole. + Supreme quality of beer - Limited food menu

Broadcast 427 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: A2, 4) 0141 332 7304, broadcastglasgow.com | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Home to one of Scotland’s biggest gig promoters, Broadcast sits ready for competition with various music-oriented neighbours at the nightlife business end of Sauchiehall Street. With regular gigs in the downstairs venue there might not be much time for eating from the comprehensive bar menu, which features a range of burgers, diligently hand-prepped pizzas, a few mains such as staple fish ’n’ chips, and the odd salad for health-conscious musos. + Gigs with added good food - Gets busy pre/post gig

Brutti Compadres 3 Virginia Court, Merchant City See Bistros & Brasseries

BrewDog Glasgow 1397 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 1) , brewdog.com | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

With venues dotted about the UK, this well-located bar opposite Kelvingrove Gallery offers the Fraserburgh crafter brewers renowned line-up of craft offerings and an ever-changing selection of their bottled beers. Brewdog brews are famously free from preservatives, additives and chemicals, which gives you the perfect excuse to guzzle a few more bottles than you probably should (always wise to verify the ABV beforehand). And what better way to complement your brew than with one of their tasty 2-for-1 hotdog and burger

Brutti Ma Buoni Brunswick Hotel, 106 Brunswick Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B2, 10) 0141 552 0001, brunswickhotel.co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Tucked away in the middle of the Merchant City, Brutti Ma Buoni is suitable for all sorts of hungry wanderers with both students and mature groups settling well together within one kookily decorated room. The banknotes and postcards from around the globe plastered against the wall make this an interesting setting and contrary to the bar’s definition of ‘ugly but good’ there’s nothing offputting about this place. The signature

bread dishes are indeed extremely good packed with plenty of colours and flavours; the perfect stomach lining if you fancy hitting the adjoining Brunswick Hotel club afterwards. As well as the delicious range of Italian comfort food, there’s some pretty advanced cocktails and classy mixes on offer if you fancy making this your stop off for the entire night. But be warned, after a few plates of the heavy cuisine and boozy brews, it may be difficult to get up afterwards. + Very good service, unique drinks - Too much selection

Burger Meats Bun 48A West Regent Street, City Centre See North American

The Butchershop Bar & Grill 1055 Sauchiehall Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

The Butterfly and the Pig 153 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: D2, 43) 0141 221 7711, thebutterflyandthepig.com | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Plotting a unique course through the slick bars of Bath St, the well-loved Butterfly and the Pig is the shabby-chic antidote. The menu aims to provide traditional pub-grub favourites, the twist being that everything is homemade using high-quality local ingredients. The dishes’ names are ridiculous, so relax in one of the vintage sofas with a pint of draught Blue Moon, served with a slice of orange, and see if you can decipher the food available. The fishcake comes in an iron skillet, piping hot, a delicious mess of mashed potatoes, fish and green onions, with an egg cracked on top. The house burger is made from a mix of pork and beef, topped with pickle, and served with a pile of thick, crunchy homemade chips. Curiosity, or a few drinks, might lead you to try ordering the haddie hannon finny fanon. + Really top-notch fish dishes - Pork in the burger means you can’t have it pink

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BARS & PUBS

list.co.uk

GLASGOW

The Butterfly and the Pig West 2 Partick Bridge Street, West End (Map 9A: B3, 14) 0141 337 1200, thebutterflyandthepig.com | £7.65 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Moving in on Partick Cross is the Butterfly and the Pig’s new West End venture, combining cosy pub and restaurant with a wide, sunny tearoom upstairs. Prepare for a surprise, as behind the modern buff-brick, plate-glass façade they channel the same shabby chic vibe as the Bath St. original, with the trademark mismatched crockery and odd knick-knacks in strange corners. Afternoon tea is the word here, dainty cake-stands heaving with doorstop sandwiches, fancy cakes from the Bath St. pastry kitchen, and, teetering at the top, salmon and cream cheese oatcakes with sweet pickled cucumber. A wide range of teas takes in liquorice and peppermint to straight-up English breakfast, but sadly few loose-leaf options. Downstairs the bar has huge saggy sofas, perfect for enjoying a bottle of Dark Island Reserve or Jeremiah Weed, and very comfy if you can only get to them first, while off to the right a more formal restaurant area, serving the same menu as Bath St, for those still craving the Butterfly and Piglet burger, with those thick, crunchy chips. + Sandwiches made with thick, freshbaked bread - Cakes look more beautiful than they taste Skinny’s (page 128): Glasgow’s taste for gourmet burgers continues at this Otago Street newcomer

4 Chinaski’s 239 North Street, West End (Map 9B: G2, 51) 0141 221 0061, chinaskis.com | £5.95 (1 course) (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Charles Bukowski testified that it was “very important . . . to take leisure time”, and within the bar that bears the name of his notorious alter-ego Henry Chinaski there is plenty the man himself would consider faithful to this philosophy. It’s hard not to be impressed with the interior, where elegance mixes with clever little touches such as the portrait of Bukowski himself, drink in one hand, floozy in the other. On tap there are some quality lagers such as the seldom seen Asahi from Japan. The menu offers a selection of well-crafted plates with many displaying an understanding of, and flair for, Eastern and European flavours. The house burger is a wonderfully succulent number, good-looking and full of quality ingredinets. Yet where this bar leads the way is in its vast assortment of bourbons and a willingness by staff to recommend a whiskey tailored to individual requirements. A great choice for anyone wishing to maximise their ‘leisure time’. + Exudes film noir chic - The sloping floor at the entrance can come as a surprise

Citation 40 Wilson Street, Merchant City See Bistros & Brasseries

Clockwork Beer Co 1153–1155 Cathcart Road, Southside (Map 8: D6, off) 0141 649 0184, clockworkbeercompany.co.uk | £8 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

If there is one bar South of the river that everyone in the city knows, it’s Clockwork. Five minutes walk from Hampden and with huge 3D TVs mounted on the walls, even this cavernous space can be bustling on a match day. But what really makes Clockwork stand out is the beer. There’s regular guest ales from across the UK, and fine imported beers, Weihenstephaner and Erdinger on tap, fridges bursting with bottled beer from around the world, and the micro-brewery on the premises, 120 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

the pipes running over the heads of patrons tucking into the hearty familiar pub grub in the more expansive dining area. With the provenance of food and drink increasingly important, it is very satisfying to sip a beer at its source, or even take some home in the handy twopint takeaway cartons. + Sampling their home-brew - Food seems a little mass produced

Cocktail & Burger 323 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: B2, 15) 0141 353 0953, cocktailandburger.com | £8 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

Doing exactly what it says on the tin, Cocktail and Burger could be hailed as one of the best locations for buns and brews. The Coney Island fires are a colourful take on standard chips, mixing them with a volcanic eruption of chilli, cheese and flavour. The burgers themselves, encased in a sweet brioche bun hold the juicy thick burger together well, with the patty very well seasoned and nicely cooked. You can add as much as you like to this, ranging from an extra patty, shredded pork or anything else worth stuffing into the bun. The barmen are masters when it comes to cocktailmaking and the staff are extremely welcoming. If you don’t fancy anything on the extensive drinks menu (but why wouldn’t you?) they will mix up a unique cocktail to your taste, whether virgin or lethal. Comfy seating and a fabulous ambience, the only problem is it can get busy so maybe wise to book your seats in advance. + Staff very attentive - Bit of a wait for some dishes

Curlers Rest 256–260 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C1, 44) 0141 341 0737, thecurlersrestglasgow.co.uk | £8.50 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Not your typical West End haunt, this enticing bar is perfect for kicking back with a pal for a two-for-one burger deal, accompanied by a beer from their extensive international selection.

Or if you fancy teaming some good quality pub food with your companion’s lunchtime patter, the mellow jazzy music and cosy interior make it a great resting point before you embark on any wanderings. The rustic mahogany interior and comfortable seating makes this a great place to escape from the jostling streets of Byres Road or for the guys to relax in front of the footy while their other halves wander through the nearby shops. With tasty offerings ranging from pizzas to steaks coupled with the bar’s laid-back setting, Curlers Rest is one for students, professionals or blokes simply on the hunt for a mellow pint. + Fresh and locally sourced food - Waiting time

Darcy’s The Courtyard, Princes Square, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 110) 0141 226 4309, socialanimal.co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Based on the Princess Square location alone, you know this place is going to be a sophisticated dining and drinking spot before you even set foot in the polished restaurant. The clean, bright space has a range of seating for any occasion, with either cushioned benches to relax in the corner for a catch-up lunch or an elegant candlelit table for evening dinner dates. The drinks are garnished beautifully and the food is presented with a very elegant and intricate touch. Though fancy, you don’t have to spend a massive amount of money on their quality cuisine as they have a decent set menu catering perfectly for veggies, kids and fussy eaters. Whether you fancy pasta, pizza, meat or a burger they have it all and everything is prepared with style, making this the perfect stop off if you fancy a bit of zing in your dining experience. + Quality produce without overspending - Can get busy

4 Den Bar & Restaurant 128 Drymen Road, Bearsden (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 942 7272, den-bearsden. com | £12.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The Den makes no bones about its

commitment to restaurant-quality food within a bar setting and this is evidenced by the abundance of fresh, locally sourced ingredients and an insistence on making as much in-house as possible. The interior is subtly furnished with open brickwork and natural wood panelling, which makes for a comfortable yet elegant setting. A glance at the menu alerts you to not expect the usual bar fare experience here, where staples like beer-battered fish and chips sit alongside thyme-roasted chicken supreme with creamed leeks and parsley mash. Where the Den really stands out, however, is in the quality of its steak menu. The simplified menu and attentive staff guarantee a perfectly cooked cut every time. Combined with a sumptuous glass of Bordeaux, this is a meal that is certainly worth the journey to Glasgow’s fringes. + Very attentive and friendly service - Cold smoked salmon salad was a bit bland

Distill 1102–1106 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 27) 0141 337 3006, distillbar. co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

A cutting-edge bar in the centre of trendy Finnieston, Distill offers an unpretentious safe-haven to enjoy a creative cocktail or two. With rum cocktails being the speciality here, the raspberry rum cobbler is particularly moreish if you like yours fresh and fruity. There are twists on wellknown classics, so for those who like them bitter, the Gebroni is a must. Light starters are ideal for a nibble, and it’s a tough choice between the burgers and pizzas thereafter, both with innovative fillings and toppings. The venison burger with celeriac remoulade is lighter than imagined, and the optional smoked aubergine dip tops it off. Eclectic music is played by an in-house DJ over the weekend. Listen while you recline on the chesterfield sofas or at the window watching passers-by. A great local haunt to get your night started. + Extensive cocktail list - No late licence

kingtuts.co.uk facebook.com /kingtutswahwah hut

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272a St Vincent Street Glasgow G2 5RL 0141 221 5279

A year of Brilliant Moments

2014

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The List Eating & Drinking Guide 121

BARS & PUBS

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GLASGOW

The Doublet 74 Park Road, West End (Map 9A: F2, 81) 0141 334 1982 | No Kids

The Doublet is a gem of a pub. With a fine selection of real ales, whiskies and gins, there is choice in this ‘old man’s pub’ for the most choosy of purveyors. Opting not to go down the route of mainstream lagers and beers on tap helps give the pub – now in its 53rd year – a modern appeal for students, regulars, and creative Westenders alike. Resisting the temptation to follow suit by installing well-known sports channels, or stepping away from its roots, has meant the pub is loyally followed, seen by many as one of the best in the area. Nods to pubs of old, with bar snacks including a filled roll, or a pie and beans, as well as traditional job titles for staff, such as ‘chargehand,’ mean the place has lost none of its charm over the years. An enjoyable place for sampling good beer and a nip with friends, or perfect for after walking the dog on a Sunday. + Choice of beer - Wouldn’t have minded some background music

The Drake 1 Lynedoch Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

DRAM! 232–246 Woodlands Road, West End (Map 9A: G3, 88) 0141 332 1622, dramglasgow.co.uk | £6 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Formerly West End favourite Uisge Beatha, Dram has managed to fill the shoes of its predecessor, ensuring it remains a watering hole at the tip of everyone’s tongues. A sultry, warm venue offering a fantastic range of beers and wines, Dram is an ideal place to bunk down with a large group for the night and enjoy the welcoming atmosphere. Ideal for catching sport with your mates, it is also an great venue for functions, as well as offering one or two dark corners for a nice romantic drink. The food on offer is familiar bar food and rather tasty, such as an enjoyable steak sandwich; however, this is not a bistro-styled bar and some may find the menu limited – unlike the great offers to be taken advantage of, with two of their satisfying pizzas for £10 on offer daily, as well as two-course meal deals coming in at £6. + Great choice of beer - Limited choice of food

Dukes Bar 41 Old Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9B: C1, 8) 0141 339 7821, dukes-bar. co.uk | No Kids | £9.50 (lunch) / £9.50 (dinner)

There’s always been a Dukes in Yorkhill and it’s been reinvented more times than Madonna, with each incarnation chiming with regulars in the way only a truly reliable local pub can. Bright and minimal with a couple of cosy booths, the bar is equally good for whiling away a quiet afternoon or providing a raucous night out with weekend DJs, where dancing in the tiny space is not unheard of. Draught beers are cherrypicked with precision, Samuel Smiths’ organic lager and cider, Williams’ Birds and Bees, Krusovice, and Tennents just to keep it real, while the fridge provides further choice, including a dizzying array of Rekorderlig fruit ciders. Spirits are taken equally seriously, with Angostura 1919 rum, Scandinavian vodkas, a fine cocktail list and not a blended whisky in sight. A small menu takes in veg or beef lasagne, pulled pork and jalapeño wraps, and the delicious beer-smoked chilli con carne, served on nachos, smoky sweet and peppery. 122 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

The Sparkle Horse (page 128): good food and fun quizzes at this appealing neighbourhood pub in Partick + Wide selection of quality tipples - Menu only suited to snacking

The Halt Bar

The Finnieston

What seemed like a slow downward spiral at this long-standing Woodlands bar has been reversed after new owners took over in 2013. Sympathetic to the bar’s heritage as a traditional local and its reputation for comedy and music in the adjoining venue Halt Two, the appealing old-school look hasn’t been altered much – a tidy up of the lovely horseshoe bar, a lick of paint and a good scrub. Entertainments range from weekday blues and comedy nights to DJs, open mic nights and a weekend jazz afternoon. A selection of local and international beers are served by staff who pride themselves on knowing their booze. From cask ales and unusual ciders on tap to interesting global craft beers from Scotland, the US and elsewhere, there is also a focus on whisky with around two dozen carefully chosen malts. No kitchen means just pies keep punters fed. A welcome return to form of a Glasgow classic, back to its best thanks to some much needed TLC. + The marvellous Old Rosie on tap - Pies the only non-liquid sustenance

1125 Argyle Street, West End See Fish

Firebird 1321 Argyle Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

The Grosvenor Café The Grosvenor Theatre, Ashton Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 33) 0845 166 6028, grosvenorcafe.co.uk | £12 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Situated on Glasgow’s cobbled Ashton Lane, the Grosvenor Café is a fine place to go for drinks and socialising, particularly ideal for big groups. The listed building remains charming and comfortable for a space that is so big. The quality of drinks are good, showing attention is taken to looking after the beer pipes and in the preparation of cocktails. Unlike many places in Glasgow, the elevated dish is a pie, with pie of the day or a steak and stout number being accompanied by mash or chips. Service can be stretched, and the food perhaps shows a little style over substance, with pies lacking a gourmet edge. Good for drinking and functions, and very welcoming to families, with weekend morning seeing the venue turned into a would-be crèche. + Good beer - Food needs some TLC

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps and links, go to

food.list.co.uk

160 Woodlands Road (Map 9A: G3, 90) 0141 353 6450, thehaltbar.co.uk |

The Hill 94 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: D2, 25) 0141 339 8558, thehillbyresroad.com | £14.25 (lunch) / £14.25 (dinner)

Situated on a well-known corner of Byres Road, the Hill takes pride of place in an area which had long been dormant. Nostalgic images of the West End of Glasgow are hung against decadent wallpaper and contrasting exposed brick. This is a place to ‘Eat, drink and be happy’, where bistro style plates offer effortless dining. A rich Cullen skink with haddock and onion makes a luxurious first course, while hearty mains, such as the homemade beef burger, enhanced with a slither of Cashel blue or a moreish peppercorn sauce will keep many satisfied. Other options include some reassuring comfort food to be enjoyed year-round. Accompanying the laid-back menu, the Hill poses an accessible wine list for all. Utilising a revolutionary

cocktail dispense, house cocktails are poured from draught and served in period style glasses. An elegant and sophisticated experience with a nod to its home roots combined with a New York style twist. + Chilled out New York cocktail bar vibe - TV can be distracting for romance

Hillhead Bookclub 17 Vinicombe Street, West End (Map 9A: D1, 50) 0141 576 1700, hillheadbookclub. co.uk | £8 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

With its curved, ornate ceiling, the interior of Hillhead Bookclub offers glimpses of its past role as a picturehouse. Venerated by students thanks to retro games machines, a table tennis cage and a good range of beers and cocktails, the huge venue has the feel of a club, but the atmosphere of a pub, which is no bad thing, even if there’s not a single book in sight. Food is best enjoyed from the mezzanine and is straightforward, unabashed pub grub with a hugely entertaining menu which offers mains that ‘yer maw almost certainly does better’, such as beef brisket (which in reality, your mum likely does do better). The finger food is excellent through – with a half pint of whitebait crisp and salty, and ham ribs doused in a molasses sauce. There’s a range of activity on, too, from games nights to a vintage fair every second Sunday, keeping customers new and old coming through the door. + Tempting range of well-priced cocktails - Not a place for a quiet weekend drink

The Hope 6/8 Waterloo Street, City Centre (Map 6: D5, 128) 0141 226 2482, thehopeglasgow. co.uk | £8 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

After the successful launch of their craft ale pub Munro’s last year, Maclay Inns have added yet another site to their already impressive roster of Glasgow bars (the Clockwork, Three Judges, the Landsdowne). Meet the Hope (which is actually just off Hope St), a gentrification of what was a shabby drinking den, now with bleached wood and a separate dining section at the back where Banksy-esque re-imaginings of Renaissance art adorn the walls (God creating man becomes God

BARS & PUBS

In association with

pouring man a whisky). There’s Pilsner Urquell and Sam Adams on draft, with mainstream modern pub favourites like haggis, neeps and tatties, or glazed salmon with mash, to eat. There are no surprises here, but some ‘on-trend’ touches like parmesan and rosemary fries, or pulled pork, or a sharing plate of all three desserts (rhubarb crumble, chocolate cake and doughnuts). They’re open from 8am and the corporate crowd is what the Hope looks to, rather successfully. Dependable food in a nice space. + Pub with character in a street lacking them - Menu plays it very safe

The Howlin’ Wolf 100 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 37) 0141 332 3224, thehowlinwolf.co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Does Glasgow need another music bar? Definitely maybe. This recent opener, replacing the Monkey Bar, is from the successful team behind long-standing Maggie Mays as well as impressive rock n roll basement Slouch down the road. This bluesy late opener (3am all week), is impressive inside, stretching back to the back lane, and illuminated by lots of twinkly lights, with booths for dining on an enticing menu that runs all day. Expect chunky sandwiches at lunchtime, and pizzas and a range of quality burgers later on (plus bar bites till the early hours), such as the mighty double-pattie Big Bad Wolf with black pudding, onions rings and more (and the challenging tagline ‘Are you afraid of the Big Bad Wolf?’). Elsewhere imaginative specials such as the Whole Hog – pork pattie, black pud and pulled pork, and kitschy desserts, such as Mars bar calzone, will keep soulfooders well fed and happy and good tunes and live gigs will entice the city’s many music fans. + Quality addition to the city’s scene - Basements not the best in daytime

Hyde 9–17 Partick Bridge Street, West End (Map 9A: B4, 17) 0141 334 9568, hydeglasgow.com | £10 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

After a very protracted opening, this new bar and restaurant is aiming to bring a bit of bling to Partick Cross at the bottom of Byres Road. It’s a troublesome corner of town that sees regular openings and closings, only the Three Judges stands tall and proud, but Hyde looks set to have some longevity with a smart interior housed in a brand new building that includes separate bar and restaurant and even a sun terrace upstairs. Food offerings range from breakfast such as the full, veggie and eggs numerous ways, through to later bar stables such as burgers, fish and chips and a good line in mac and cheese dishes, as well as make-up-yourown hot bowls of Asian. Offers such as £5 at lunch and pre-theatre for a choice of carefully prepared cocktails and one course from a set few dishes, add to the enticement. It’s a little hyped, but Hyde has substance behind the sophisticated stylings. + Classy vibe, with sun terrace - Food not as sophisticated as the setting

Inn Deep 445 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: F2, 71 0141 357 1075, inndeep.com | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Tucked beside the river Kelvin, Inn Deep is somewhere to hide away from the world with a great beer in hand and a huge plate of food. Supplied mainly by Williams Bros Brewing Co, there is an impressive range, with three guest kegs and cask ales changing regularly, making for something different on each return. Enticing pub grub is bolstered by its unique selling point: the

Bros’ beer has been incorporated into the menu to modernise old classics. Angel cut haddock is battered in their Joker IPA and comes with a chunky homemade tartare sauce – a truly man-sized portion. Live entertainment varies throughout the week – with every second Tuesday seeing a packed out bar and restaurant for a dose of ‘Spoken Word’ for discussions on a range of topics. The outdoor seating area is a secretive treat not to be missed. + Beer range – particularly guest cask and kegs - Outdoor access can let the weather in

Jacker de Viande 111 West Regent Street, City Centre See North American

Kelvingrove Café 1163 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 21) 0141 221 8988, kelvingrovecafe. com | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Despite temporary closure in mid 2013 for hygiene and licensing violations, the damage to your health at this sohip-it-hurts bar squarely on Finnieston’s enticing dining and drinking strip will most likely be through the range of diligently prepared cocktails on offer, expertly concocted by some of the city’s top mixers. Your wallet might take a hit, too, depending on how much you like to mix your drinks. Food offerings blend bar snacks such as sliders, hot dog and wings with substantial and sophisticated mains such as fillet steak and haunch of venison. [Not recently visited.] + Supreme cocktails . . . - . . . don’t come cheap

TIP/,67 FOR BEER & WHISKY • Bar Gumbo Tasty Transatlantic treats at this soulful bar 165 • Bar Varia Fatherland favourites at this Xscape attraction 112 • The Ben Nevis Whiskydoused local with folk music and cosy ﬁre 116 • The Brass Monkey Beers for connoisseurs at Finnieston 118 • Brel Belgian specialists with the mighty Delirium Tremens 118 • Brewdog Nuclear penguins and dead ponies at famed crafters 118 • Inn Deep Williams Bros’ own refreshments on the banks of the Kelvin 123 • The Pot Still Whisky looms large at this traditional city pub 126 • Three Judges Partick pullers of top beers, ales and stouts 129 • WEST Brewery Glasgow’s Germanic brewers at Glasgow Green 130

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GLASGOW

King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut 272a St Vincent Street, City Centre (Map 6: B3, 52) 0141 221 5279, kingtuts.co.uk | Closed Sun (unless gig on) | No Kids under 16, except for over-14s gigs | £5.50 (set lunch) / £10 (dinner)

King Tut’s is well known for its musical pedigree but is less celebrated for the quality of its food. Choosing to do away with tapas, the kitchen has decided to focus on what they do best. The ‘Almost Famous’ fish and chips exhibit real skill in presentation and execution while the variety of burger options – served with their own slaw – will have any carnivore salivating. It can be particularly bustling during the lunchtime period, or any night when there is a gig on upstairs – however, the bar has had a makeover in the last couple of years which has really brightened up the interior. A particular treat is the WEST brewery King Tut’s lager, a light and refreshing companion to any meal, or great simply on its own. + Hand-cut chips are a treat - Mushy peas are disappointing

The Lansdowne Bar & Kitchen 7a Lansdowne Crescent, West End (Map 9A: G2, 83) 0141 334 4653, lansdownebar. co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

MacLay Inns do bars very well and one of their oldest in Glasgow is no exception. A fantastic local tucked away in a basement just off Great Western Road, the Lansdowne is an enticing place for after-work drinks and bar food. More than this though, it’s a great venue for weekend entertainment and as a function space for all occasions. With a vast array of bottled beers and ciders, the bar also offers plenty of wines, craft beers and real ales from around the globe. Comfortable surroundings with lively staff, live sport

TIP/,67

The Hope (page 122): an enticing newcomer that is Maclay Inns’ first foray into the City Centre

and good music make this a perfect Saturday afternoon haunt. The food, as often with MacLay Inns, hits the spot for standard pub fare. In-house specials, pizzas and bar bites shine, though the à la carte menu could do with a little brightening up. + Beer and wine selection - Standard bar food

FOR WINE & COCKTAILS

Las Iguanas

• Bath Street Palomino Classy cocktails at this slick bar 116

4 Lebowskis

• Blue Dog City slicker with sophisticated offerings 117 • Blythswood Square Salon All hail the mighty Bar Book at this classy salon 171 • Booly Mardy’s Brunch specialists deliver the perfect tonic 118 • Boudoir Wine Bar Specialist vintners at Merchant Square 118 • The Finnieston Ginbased diligence at this ﬁshy favourite 152 • The Hill A West End newcomer with cocktails on tap 122 • The Tiki Bar Kitschy and cool drinking den on Bath Street 129 • Vroni’s Sophisticated sipping with a spot of shopping 130

124 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

16–20 West Nile Street, City Centre See Round the World

1008 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: E2, 36) 0141 564 7988, lebowskis.co.uk | £9 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Lebowskis has far more class than the name implies, but though the Dude has undoubtedly been ejected from worse places, the legendary slacker from the Coen brothers’ film would surely approve of the drinks menu, featuring 28 variations on his favourite tipple: the White Russian. The Donny, for example, is Amaretto, Kahlua and milk, with crumbled amaretto biscuit. The menu, streamlined to a faithful American-style range of burgers, hotdogs and pulled pork, is deftly put together using well-sourced and high-quality local ingredients. The signature burger, the Big Lebowski, is a double stack of patties using Cairnhill 28-day aged beef – good enough to go without the huge range of toppings, cheeses and sauces available. The plush leather booths are in high demand for the near-nightly entertainments, from regular live music and poetry nights to pub quizzes, and open mic evenings, for which the bar will even provide the instruments to impulsive enthusiasts. + Gourmet burgers and fine beer - Booths can be a tight fit

The Left Bank 33–35 Gibson Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

Little Urban Achievers Club 508 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: F1, 63) 0141 237 4040, luac.co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

A new venture from the owners of the Finnieston and Lebowskis brings us a cool new bar with a retro American vibe. LUAC, or Little Urban Achievers Club, has an impressively long bar amid a mixture of seating including booths and high tables suited to those looking to catch a bit of sport on the wide screen TVs. Barbecue baby back ribs get you stuck in from the start and are fingerlickingly good. Handmade authentic German sausages, sourced locally, include bratwurst, frankfurters or the krakauer with imaginative fillings, which make for a tough choice. In the mood for pizza? You’ll be impressed by the light pizza base and range of toppings. The Old School is dressed with crispy bacon, Lanark Blue cheese, rocket and a honey mustard drizzle – a great flavour combination. With a wide range of beer and cocktails available to wash it all down, make sure you leave room for a highly recommended sundae. + Hot dog feast - Limited wine list

Lucky 7 Canteen 166 Bath Street, City Centre See Bistros & Brasseries

MacSorley’s 42 Jamaica Street, City Centre (Map 6: E6, 121) 0141 248 8581, macsorleys.com | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

One of the city’s oldest pubs, MacSorely’s is a good call if you fancy popping in for a pint and hearty dinner. There’s a surprising selection on the menu, not your typical burger and beer kind of pub grub, with the likes of sea bass and tasty homemade soups making an appearance, which contrasts deeply with the pub‘s dark and moody furnishings. The grungy vibe and the low rock music makes this a low-key hangout for pre-clubbers, tired shoppers or peckish passersby. Plus there’s usually live music on, which keeps the place jangling with energy and makes this a staple location for anyone looking to support Scottish tradition in music, grub and history. + Great for music lovers - Can get loud

Maggie May’s 60 Trongate, Merchant City See Scottish

Malone’s Irish Bar 57–59 Sauchiehall Lane, City Centre (Map 6: D2, 36) , malonesbarglasgow. com | £5 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Taking over the secretive spot vacated recently by the Universal, Malone’s shouldn’t be confused with long-standing neighbour and similarly named Molly Malone’s round the corner on Hope Street. Run by Irish folk for Irish folk, this place, like many an Emerald Isleinspired bar wears its origins on its sleeve with décor dripping in Guinness logos and shamrocks. It’s a small attractive space, benefiting from its backlane location away from Sauchiehall’s main drag, but it’s no secret judging by the packed-in people much of the time, creating a lively, buzzing atmosphere. That they manage to dish up bar food of various burgers, Irish breakfasts and stews, and sharing plates, as well as a regular line-up of traditional Irish live tunes in the corner seems a logisitical triumph. A function room upstairs opens up for big events such as football or rugby on the big screens. + Lively bar secreted away - Can get busy busy

4 Meat Bar 142 West Regent Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 41) 0141 204 3605, themeatbar.co.uk | No Kids under 5 | £14.50 (lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

Rather than merely relying on the excitement that their name might create among ravenous carnivores, this bar – an early encumbent on booming West Regent St – has opted to take a meticulous approach to customer satisfaction, where skilled staff are happy to describe and recommend dishes catered to customer wants. Meat is key – helped by judicious use of a pit oven for slow cooking smoked options such as ribs. Burgers are a stacked gravitational marvel, and come with a range of accompaniments, while the tender and flavoursome flash skirt steak will have any meat-eater howling at the moon. The

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bar also delivers on taste, with a weekly guest beer, an enticing range of bottled world beers and the refreshing Aspal cider on tap. Obsessive carnivores can overload here, with cocktails featuring meaty garnishes. The dark reddish light and private booths may create a surreptitious atmosphere – after sampling Meat Bar, however, there will be very few keeping quiet about its talents. + Perfectly cooked flash skirt steak - Unnecessary window into the toilet

Molly Malones 224 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: E2, 34) 0141 332 2757, mollymalonesglasgow.co.uk | £10.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

There are hardly a shortcoming of Irish themed bars across the globe, and indeed Glasgow is hardly short of its own. But done right, you’d have to look hard to find a better kind of bar to enjoy an evening with friends or to catch up on a weekend’s sport. And Molly Malone’s does the whole Irish and pub package very well. On the cusp of Cowcaddens, the Hope Street bar is a Glasgow favourite and with good reason. Comfortable, welcoming surroundings, friendly staff and a great offering of beers, Molly’s offers good sport coverage and live entertainment. A good pint of Guinness can be tricky to find but Molly’s does a commendably tasty pint of black. The food on offer is ideal for those seeking some quick nourishment, or those looking for a sit-down meal with friends. An enjoyable evening to be had whether with a group of pals, or a couple’s evening out with a bit of character. + Atmosphere - Not a healthy dining option

4 Mono 12 Kings Court, King Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B4, 42) 0141 553 2400, monocafebar.com | £5.95 (set lunch) / £10 (dinner)

With lots going on, seemingly at once, this open and airy bar/venue is an old hand at giving its clientele exactly what they want. Its staunch dedication to vegetarian and vegan food is as impressive in ethos as it is on the palate. Starters of homemade beetroot, walnut and dill pâté with rye bread or hummus with flatbread showcase their focus on fresh flavours, while the array of savoury sensations to be found within the nasi goreng take you on a joyous voyage to Indonesia. Taste seems to be at the centre of everything at Mono where they even brew their own lemonades and the gingeriest ginger beer around. With the venue, Monorail Music and Good Press in the wings you could be forgiving for thinking it’s all a bit much; however, the only question it summons up is ‘Why aren’t more places like this?’ + The freshest of fresh ingredients - Bar service can be a touch slow

THE STAND COMEDY CLUB 333 Woodlands Road | Glasgow | 0844 335 8879 StandGlasgow

@StandComedyClub

Get your fill of the tastiest live comedy

Moskito 200 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 23) 0141 331 1777, moskitoglasgow.com | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Where some bars are fashionable, some are just cool – as with Moskito, which has been drawing in a young crowd for 14 years, a sprawling late-night basement bar with a mix of open spaces for weekend revelry, intimate high-backed booths, sheltered outside terrace and pool tables. There’s fine drinks, too, with Estrella Damm and Erdinger on draught, Innis and Gunn in the fridge and a good selection of cocktails, many

OPEN 7 NIGHTS A WEEK

www.thestand.co.uk

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of them twists on classics like the fruity strawberry Gin mojito. There’s highquality spirits behind the bar, and the house vodka is reassuringly Absolut. The menu changes regularly, but at the time of writing, the signature Moskito burger came with a rich slice of black pudding and chorizo nestling in the bun alongside the pink, juicy patty. + Long fruity cocktails - Booths fill up quickly

Mulberry Street Bar Bistro 778 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: C3, 13) 0141 424 0858, mulberrystbarbistro.com | £6.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

With its wide windows looking out towards Queen’s Park and seating spilling out over the leafy street corner it occupies, this family-run bar-bistro is surely a contender for most relaxed bar in Glasgow. There’s always a couple of interesting guest ales on draught alongside the continental beers, and a handful of fine malts behind the bar. Swapping the cosy leather chairs for the tables of the separate dining room, an eclectic menu, channelling a vaguely New York-Italian vibe, offers a quick nibble or a three-course meal where most is homemade. A thick, meaty burger on ciabatta bread comes with pleasingly crunchy hand-cut chips, while the Mulberry St fishcakes, light and fluffy but crisp outside, come with fresh salad and fresher tangy dip. Get out of bed for the Sunday brunch, which runs from a full breakfast with haggis and square sausage, through eggs Florentine, to light pancakes with maple syrup and caramelised banana. + Great place for a sunny afternoon - More seats outside than in the bar

Munro’s 185 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: H3, 91) 0141 332 0972, munrosglasgow.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Specialising in rotating craft beer and cask ales, Munro’s has become a popular venue in Glasgow’s West End. A warm and comfortable welcome helps to make this one of the best watering holes around, with well-priced bar bites and dinner options catering for cashstrapped students, or working couples looking for a relaxed meal. The busy, all-day kitchen offers sharing platters, pizzas, sandwiches and mains. Beer snacks can be whipped up for a few pounds, but Munro’s two-for-one pizza and burger offers reign supreme. Bar bites are plentiful in size and flavour, and the artisanal freshly made pizzas are worth shouting about. The Thursday night quiz is now legendary, being a worthy challenge for the ‘Masterminds’ of this world. Live open-mic Tuesdays and a welcome for sports fans tick the remaining entertainment boxes. + Enticing beer selection - No surprises on the à la carte

Nice ’n’ Sleazy 421 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: A2, 5) 0141 333 0900, nicensleazy.com | No Kids | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

With almost 25 years in the business of entertaining the discerning music lovers of Glasgow, this city centre bar has successfully (if not quietly) been going about its business with minimal pomp while gaining in reputation. In the affectionately named Sleazy’s, upstairs is for thinking while downstairs is for dancing. The bar itself seems eternally thronged by the hipster set enjoying what must be one of the last surviving CD jukeboxes in the western world. The kitchen conceivably boasts the best burgers in town thanks to the 126 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Nice ’n’ Sleazy: live music and great food courtesy of Meathammer in the kitchen on Sauchiehall Street

residency of Meathammer Ltd since 2011. You can choose to take it easy with The Chunk or do epic battle with the stilton and slow-cooked brisket filled Behemoth. Downstairs you’ll find live bands, DJ nights and strangely esoteric film screenings. It’s certainly not for everyone; and that’s the way they like it. + Burgers and Boston baked beans are very special - The toilets are like entering the depths of Mordor

1116 Argyle Street, Finnieston 1116 Argyle Street, West End (Map (9B: D2, 25) 0141 249 9885 | Closed Mon | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

The ‘Finnieston Pop-up’ has decided to stay around. Having proved a popular addition to this vibrant stretch of the West End, what was going to be temporary is now part of the permanent collection, with a new name. The DIY ethic remains: unique cocktails are created, and then deleted after three months, never to exist again. There’s only one bottled (Moretti) and one draft (Heineken) beer -- available in increasingly popular two-third pint ‘schooner’ glasses. Music comes from mixtapes created by staff -- hip-hop, funk, electro, soul, played through an old cassette deck. With the tunes and the darkness and the cool demeanour, you really could be in Barcelona or Madrid. The tapas menu is designed by the same chefs as nearby Spanish restaurant Fino. A smoked bull slider tastes like the delicious place between piggy smokiness and steak’s meaty texture, chorizo ‘lollipops’ have good flavour, and the bravas have a crispy, well-seasoned exterior. Portions and prices are small, the emphasis on bite-size portions to accompany drinks and chat in true Iberic style. + Dark and moody without having an attitude problem - Only one beer on tap

4 The Pacific 562 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: A3, off) 0141 334 9000, pacificglasgow.com | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

The Pacific Tiki Bar and Kitch Inn brings the best of the dreamy Pacific isles right to our doorstep (minus the sunshine, of course). This bamboo-clad bar is decked

out with a sumptuous range of rums and exotic cocktail ingredients ready to ease you into your Pacific experience. The menu hosts an eclectic range of dishes, mostly Thai-inspired with other Indonesian influences added to the mix. Salt and pepper squid with mixed spices warm up the taste buds. Follow with a Thai curry and be sure to preference how hot you can handle, they come hot as you like. Baja fish tacos have chunky white fish and homemade accompaniments, or there’s the big kahuna burgers which are well-seasoned and come with a light brioche bun. Wash it all down with a fruity rum cocktail; a Hurricane will do the trick. A few hours of tropical escapism, right in the heart of Partick. + Real blow fish make awesome lamp shades - All that’s missing is a grass skirt on arrival

The Pot Still 154 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 57) 0141 333 0980, thepotstill.co.uk | £4 (lunch) / £4 (dinner)

’I love Scotch, down in my belly, Scotch, Scotch, Scotch.’ If, like Ron Burgundy, you have a love of the water of life, then you could do far worse than visiting the Pot Still on Hope Street. A quiet moment is a rare thing in the Pot Still, one of the most popular bars in town. A fine selection of beers, ales, and wines are spectacularly surpassed by a whisky collection that would make Johnny Walker himself weak at the knees. Charming, attentive, knowledgeable staff serve up the amber stuff and Glasgow patter in equal measures. A traditional pub in many ways, first-time punters will be forgiven for gawping at the mesmerising whisky collection that looms over the bar in spectacular fashion, suitably supported by paraphernalia depicting the history of Scotland’s whisky trade. A hot spot for tourists, the Pot Still is a pub that must be experienced, whisky lovers or not. + Whisky selection - Food choice

Rab Ha’s 83 Hutcheson Street, Merchant City See Scottish

97) 0141 204 0706, republicbierhalle. com | No Kids | £5.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The Bier Halle, as it’s distinctively known, has been successfully pulling in punters since before the millennium and shows no sign of halting. If the vast selection of beer on offer wasn’t enough, from old favourites to new imports, then the 2-for-1 pizza deal further heightens its popularity. The bottled and draft beers on offer come from far and wide as do the patrons, lured in by the likes of Cuba Nero Fuerte from Cuba, German’s Augustiner and Tui from New Zealand. The Bier Halle is serious about table service with staff sashaying around with what appears like several orders in their head at once. There are grand plans for expansion also with a German Bier dispenser planned for the outside seating area on Gordon Street and a further area on Buchanan Street for the Commonwealth Games. + It’s all about the beer - Music can hinder conversation

The Richmond 144 Park Road, West End (Map 9A: F3, 77) 0141 334 3571, therichmondglasgow. com | £9.50 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Located next to Kelvingrove Park, The Richmond presents a stylish and relaxed destination spot for any day of the week. The interior is in keeping with current trends featuring exposed brick combined with a clever use of wood, a little like ship decking – well suited to the nearriverside location. The high bar is a great feature and central to the restaurant, home to some well-made cocktails. The menu has a subtle Indian influence running throughout, a flair which enhances the dishes and sets it apart from your average West End bar-bistro. Pulled pork and chorizo salad is rich and tender. Alongside ubiquitous bistro mains, a traditional Goan-style seafood curry with oven-roasted coconut comes with a generous range of fish and flat bread and is perfectly portioned. The wine menu pairs well with the food, creating a complete dining experience. + Feature bar - Mains on the pricey side

The Rio Café Republic Bier Halle 9 Gordon Street, City Centre (Map 6: E5,

27 Hyndland Street, West End See Cafés

Locally Sourced Seasonal Menu Scotlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Best Gourmet Burger Menu Acoustic music sets Beer garden Cocktails, Wines and Real Beers

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Lebowskis Glasgow 0141 564 7988 hello-westend@lebowskis.com Lebowskis Edinburgh 0131 466 1779 hello-edinburgh@lebowskis.com

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A Finnieston gem ideally situated for the City Centre, West End & SECC

The finest fresh, local food served 7 days a week

Great Selection of Draught Beers, 300+ Spirits, Premium Cocktails & Wonderful Wine

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1004 Argyle St, Glasgow, G3 8LU Tel: 0141 243 2170 www.thebrassmonkeyglasgow.co.uk info@thebrassmonkeyglasgow.co.uk bookings@den-bearsden.com www.den-bearsden.com

Malone's Glasgow is a family run pub in the heart of Glasgow city centre offering delicious home cooked dishes and definitely the best pint of Guinness in town! 57-59 Sauchiehall Lane Glasgow, G2 4AB 0141 332 8899 malonesbarglasgow.com

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TABLE Talk

KATE CLARK ON THE HEALTHY APPROACH We have just been awarded the Healthy Living Award. It is very unusual for a takeaway – it’s usually given to caterers in hospitals and colleges. It has taken a lot of work meeting so many strict requirements, but it has been a real aim of mine. Taste and flavour always come first, of course, but I have also always valued healthy living especially for busy professionals. At Martha’s, we teamed up with a nutritionist to devise a menu to tackle the ‘3pm slump’ – that time in the middle of the afternoon when you start to flag because the calories from lunch have been used up. I remember this very well from my days in an office. We really wanted to address it. We began to discover all kinds of slow-burn foods that release calories over a longer period of time. So we started to use slow-burn grains such as quinoa and freekeh in our salads. We also show how many calories there are in each dish, and indicate the fat and salt content. This healthy focus has enabled us to talk to company bosses – a key market for us as we are surrounded by offices – in a completely new way. We can approach them from a staff welfare angle instead of a commercial one. I love doing this. We can help them to meet targets on wellbeing so it ticks a lot of boxes for them. And the green credentials have helped too. Fast food inevitably means having a lot of packaging, but we are able to source compostable, vegetable-based products from Vegware in Edinburgh. This helps the local businesses that we cater for to meet their targets on recycling and waste. It’s a healthy approach to people, a healthy approach to the planet and it’s a healthy approach to business. Everybody wins. Q Kate Clark is co-owner of Martha’s (see page 142). mymarthas.co.uk

128 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Rockus 1038 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 35) 0141 204 5075, rockus-glasgow.co.uk | £11.50 (lunch) / £11.50 (dinner)

Aiming to capitalise on passing trade created by the Scottish Hydro this classic rock bar may well prove to be an inspired addition to the selection of new bars springing up along the Finnieston strip. The dark interior, AC/DC German Beer and Jagermeister Tap Machine shows a canny knowledge of its client base, and with a permanent 2-for-1 burger and pizza deal it’s sure to be popular with what can seem like an underprovided for section of the Glasgow music community. The new menu still lacks sophistication but where this bar succeeds is in its dedication to the rock fan. The free jukebox, pinball machine and loud and proud approach to the background music draw in like-minded individuals, and the growing popularity of their Sunday Blues Night suggests Rockus is certainly in this for the long haul. + Impressive selection of bottled beer - Many, many high tables and stools

The Roxy 171 171 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: H3, 92) 0141 331 1901, theroxy171. co.uk | £5 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Since the demise of the Captain’s Rest way back in 2012, Great Western Road has been in need of a surrogate music haunt. The Roxy 171 may not have the grime but where it aims to compete is in its abundant and ethical approach to live music. This bar is serious about its ethos of promoting new undiscovered music and is staunchly against any ‘pay to play’ policy in its cosy downstairs venue. The upstairs bar offers an assortment of premium beers on tap, an elegant wine list and an extensive rum selection. The food menu presents a range of choices from a delicious grilled lamb kofta, generously topped burgers and its own ‘chilli cook off’ BBQ pulled pork chilli con carne, making it a fine choice for musos and foodies alike. + Extensive rum selection - Position of the bar goes against logic

Saramago Café Bar CCA, 350 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre See Arts Venues

The 78 10–14 Kelvinhaugh Street, West End (Map 9B: C2, 15) 0141 576 5018, the78cafebar. com | £9 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

As part of the vegan/vegetarian empire which compromises the likes of Stereo and Mono, the 78 brings a laid-back West End vibe to meat-free proceedings. Known locally for its commitment to quality Reggae and dancehall, this bar offers a range of attractive choices for the discerning veggie with its falafel platter, classic 78 and daily special burgers. Argonaut Sounds host the Dutchy Pot on Thursday nights and it’s not to be missed if you like scrumptious grub, laid-back tunes and a range of cask ales to excite even the most demure of punters. The price-conscious patron should also note the low cost of selected spirits (a malt of the month coming in at a pocket friendly £2.25) and a set two-course meal for under a tenner on Meat Free Mondays. + Laid-back staff - Laid-back staff

Skinny’s 61 Otago Street, West End (Map 9A: F2, 72) 0141 339 8455, skinnysbar.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Skinny’s is a bar going through what can only be described as a sea change. Upon the realisation that competing with long-established neighbours is not paying off they have resolved to concentrate on where they feel their strengths lie: in their food. With an earlier opening time of

8am comes a new and untested breakfast and brunch menu and if as much effort is taken over this as is given to the current evening menu then popularity is likely to follow. Situated in a snug little section of Otago Street it conforms to what would be considered as a ‘neighbourhood bar’ and comes with the relaxed feel of such an establishment. The menu presently offers a competitive range of burgers and mains; however, their desire to move into the breakfast and brunch market firmly puts this bar in the ‘wait and see’ category. + Pleasantly situated location - Needs to find its identity

complement the food, an approachable wine list has been well thought out with most wines available by the glass, including a prosecco for those who fancy some fizz. A diverse range of music on the stereo adds to this lively yet understated bar – sure to continue as a true gem among its West End competitors. + Understated and family friendly - No disabled toilets

Sloans

The West End is full to bursting with eateries and bars. Some good, some not so good, and then the ones you want to rave about, and in the Squid and Whale Great Western has a new heir to the throne for king of the road. Formerly Bar Gambrino, the venue came under new ownership in 2013, and specialises in South American, Mexican and Louisiana Creole dishes that utilise fresh, locally sourced produce. Simple, yet artistic surroundings are brought to life with a whole heap of flavour and a nice bit of spice. To wash down the fantastic dishes, that range from pulled pork and chicken to burgers, jambalaya and sweet waffles, is a great selection of lagers, beers, porters, and ciders from around the world. Fine food at a reasonable price comes with week-night specials that make eating out with friends even more affordable. A playlist to die for, chilled-out vibe, great staff and a relaxed atmosphere, make this place definitely welcome among the myriad of West End hotspots. + Food and beer choice - This reviewer only just discovered it

62 Argyll Arcade, City Centre (Map 6: F6, 119) 0141 221 8886, sloansglasgow.com | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Tucked down a cobbled lane off busy Buchanan Street, this venerable bar’s covered trestles are probably the nicest outdoor seating in the city’s epicentre. Inside is packed with period features, polished wood and brass, Victorian tiles and a claim to being the oldest pub in Glasgow. Not content to rest on this claim, Sloan’s has ceilidhs every Friday night in its grand upstairs ballroom, regular meal-and-a-movie nights, afternoon tea on Sundays and raucous musical bingo. There are Kelburn ales on draught to bolster the line-up of regular lagers, classic cocktails and a good clutch of single malts. Food ranges from the traditional pub fare of pies and burgers to grilled veg deli sandwiches and hummus platters. There’s a taste of Scotland, too, in the Cullen skink, so thick and chunky it’s almost a stew, rich and creamy with a hint of rosemary. Also recommended is their famous macaroni cheese, with flavours of the month, smoked haddock, or bacon and Gruyère. + Historic surroundings - Noisy coffee machine next to the table

Slouch 203–205 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 22) 0141 221 5518, slouch-bar.co.uk | £5 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

What do you get when you cross a well laid out basement bar with a fantastic rock vibe, good food and a fine selection of booze? Slouch – a somewhat obscure gem in Glasgow’s city centre offering tasty bar food at a good price, with one or two unexpected surprises. Their tasty dogs, fine pizza and quality burgers sit next to dishes you’d expect to see on the à la carte menu of more high-reaching establishments. Welcoming couches and bar stools, offer the ideal place to park up and enjoy said food, or simply catch up with friends sampling the many bottled beers on offer. With a distinct pre- and post-gig vibe, there are plenty of fine whiskies and bourbons on show, as well as various of cocktails to get the party really started. Lots of live music is offered, along with private hire, at a place that can quickly make a regular out of a first-time visitor. + Discovering a hidden gem - Disappointing cocktail

The Sparkle Horse 16 Dowanhill Street, West End (Map 9A: B3, 10) 0141 562 3175, thesparklehorse. com | £9–12 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

A welcoming and inviting atmosphere is felt from the outset when visiting the Sparkle Horse. The quirky laid-back décor quickly reassures that this is a place to spend a lazy afternoon with family, or to enjoy an evening catching up with friends. Menu highlights include chicken liver pâté with a homemade apple and raisin chutney – a must, and incredibly moreish. Pork loin stuffed with Stornoway black pudding and wrapped in pancetta comes with mash and chive cream sauce – a delicious pairing of salty and creamy flavours. To

4 The Squid and Whale 372–374 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: G2, 84) 0141 339 5070, squidwhale.com | £10 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Steampunk Café 1 Drury Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 89) 0141 204 2929, steampunkcafe.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Steampunk is a sci-fi, fashion and art genre inspired by an alternative Victorian era where steam power prevails. Think HG Wells, aviator goggles and hissing cogs. It’s an emerging trend, and this cocktail bar and diner is a bold embodiment – a gigantic, stretching space of burgundy chesterfields and chandeliers, the soundtrack is swing and they hold cabaret nights. Alongside burgers the menu has ‘punk pockets’ – conical stuffed tortillas – that taste decent enough, and though neither the pork nor the brisket stand up to the depth of flavour found nearby, Steampunk’s focus lies elsewhere. Mini combos, where wee versions are delicately arranged on a wooden board with ickle condiments in the middle, are a typically stylish little touch. + Steampunk is pretty cool - Not all that steampunk here

Stereo 20–28 Renfield Lane, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 88) 0141 222 2254, stereocafebar.com | £6.50 (set lunch) / £11.50 (dinner)

An alternative haven tucked away on a cobbled lane, Stereo offers plenty of reasons for a visit. The basement of the venue hosts bands covering every niche imaginable while the boisterous weekend atmosphere sees hipsters flock for cuttingedge DJ sets and a great range of Scottish beers. With a 3am weekend licence it’s a perfect spot for non-clubbers who want an extended night out. Before all that though, the vegetarian menu is something worth exploring. Tapas including veg tempura and haggis fritters are served in a dry, crisp batter and generously portioned – and on a Monday some are in a five for £12 deal. Mains themselves also excel – with the cheese-free pizzas standing out. Try the haggis version, which comes with spicy muhammara and olives. With all bread

BARS & PUBS

In association with

GLASGOW

The Vintage Drygate Brewing Company, Duke Street, East End (Map 7: D1, off)

One of Glasgow’s biggest openers looks set to transform Duke Street as the Drygate Brewing Company launches this May. This collaboration between craft brewers Williams Bros (also owners of Inn Deep at Kelvinbridge, and The Vintage in Edinburgh) and Tennent’s Lager producers Tennent Caledonian Breweries will, with the help of local designers Graven Images, convert a former box factory into one of the destination drinking spots in the city and beyond. Spread over two floors and with views taking in the nearby Cathedral and Necropolis, a capacity for hundreds will see all manner of happenings from micro-brewing to dining and shopping, with various live entertainments on offer, as well as lots of great craft beer, with labels designed by Glasgow School of Art alumni. [Not yet open at time of going to press.]

Vespbar 14 Drury Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 90) 0141 204 0060, vespbar.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

WEST Brewery (page 130): excellent Teutonic beers and food at Glasgow Green

baked on site each morning, and particular attention to dietary intolerances, Stereo is a winner all day long. + The pizzas, the beers, the tunes - Doesn’t cater for the carnivorous

is always lively, and while they avoid showing the football, they are proud to screen the rugby. + Dedication to fantastic beers - Pokey ladies’ loo

Stravaigin Café Bar

The Tiki Bar

28 Gibson Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

214 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 20) 0141 332 1341, tikibarglasgow.com |

pudding or the figgylicious cocktail – or even both. + Great lunchtime deal - Jellied fruit on daily cheesecake

Variety Bar

The 13th Note Café/Bar 50–60 King Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B3, 39) 0141 553 1638, 13thnote.co.uk | £8.50 (lunch) / £10.50 (dinner)

Situated in a great little section of the city, The 13th Note exudes hipster cool without appearing unapproachable. A recent redecoration has freshened up the interior without losing any of its much loved ‘lived in’ look. The décor aside, people make a specific effort to come here to catch the seven-day gigs, sample the extensive vegetarian and vegan menu and the top-quality beers they supply on tap. The grilled tandoori halloumi and red pepper kebab is a flavoursome treat as is the haggis, neeps and tatties or the sticky mushroom risotto. Ethical sourcing is paramount here where even the wine is selected on principles. A bar which self identifies as ‘very dog friendly’, it’s the ideal place to bring the hound and enjoy man’s other best friend: beer, as each week brings a fresh and tasty Williams Bros guest ale. + Great place for an afternoon beer with the dog - The back tables and chairs aren’t in keeping with the rest of the décor

Three Judges 141 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 15) 0141 337 3055, threejudges.co.uk | No Kids

Presiding over Partick Cross, the Three Judges is the most honest-to-goodness traditional boozer in Glasgow. With no jukebox, the noise coming from the chatter and laughter of the patrons, they have arguably the finest selection of beers in the city. Along with fine beers like Williams Caesar Augustus on tap and rarities such as Fraoch heather ale in the fridge, a board by the door displays nine constantly changing guest ales, porters, bitters, milds, and at least one cider, from across the UK. Beers are available to takeaway in two-pint cartons, and throughout the year there are ale and stout festivals. Live jazz on a Sunday afternoon

It’s a standard Bath Street basement bar at first glance but look again and discover a retro-funky Hawaiian beach hut with killer cocktails. Past the decking terrace, it’s warm and cosy inside with a 50s surf chic décor, dimly lit with kooky furnishings, a fussball table and some very comfy booths. Twisting tradition, they mix classic cocktails using rum instead of the usual spirit, and a colourful list of their own creations uses fresh fruit and homemade ingredients like Irn Bru syrup. Drinks are served in glasses, jam jars, or to the trustworthy in fancy ceramic tiki mugs. While the Clyde Fog Cutter boasts a buckiki wine float, sociable groups go for the Volcano, a flashy camera-phone magnet of a drink that arrives in a big bowl for sharing – but remember to blow the flame out before the straws melt. + Fun atmosphere and mind-blowing cocktails - On a busy night the bar queue gets big

The Two Figs 5 and 9 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 13) 0141 334 7277, thetwofigs.co.uk | £5 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Chilling out at the quiet end of Byres Road, the Two Figs has great food and relaxing atmosphere in equal measure. An extensive cocktail list, a sophisticated menu and stylish décor show that the management have left nothing to chance. Split into two rooms, one with the bar (where you can spy a bottle of local Pincer vodka nestled among homemade cocktail syrups), the other with plush velvet booths, you can watch the world go by surrounded by figgy motifs. Foodwise, great emphasis is put on local seasonal produce. The house super-food salad, packed with beans and sprouts is perfect for the health-conscious, and can be boosted into a main meal by adding chicken or halloumi skewers. For something meatier, the juicy burger, served with hand-cut rosemary chips, or the caramelised pork are extremely tempting. To finish, try the sticky figgy

401 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: A2, 7) 0141 332 4449 | No Kids

Sauchiehall Street is awash with bars, often chains or pop-up premises that don’t last the distance. But, force your way through the crowds of stag and hen parties this ‘strip’ attracts, and you’ll find one or two cracking bars. And one such unpolished diamond is Variety. A dark, amber-lit bar, ripe for music aficionados, it is hardly the place for a romantic night out, but it is an ideal place for a crisp pint and some great music in lively company. Reminiscent of an American biker bar, with a definite air of grunge, the service is friendly and efficient, the music is top notch and the beers flow freely. A good selection of whiskies and gins offer something different for the more discerning, with a well-stocked fridge offering a good selection of bottled beers, ciders and wine. + Good music and beer - A low dimmer switch on the lights

Velvet Elvis 566 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: A3, off) 0141 334 6677, velvet-elvis. com | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Where once stood a 1910 butchers’ shop now hosts a cool, understated neighbourhood bar ideal for relaxing with friends any day of the week. Something about the mismatched furniture, high ceilings and Edwardian tiles creates an inviting atmosphere that makes you feel instantly at home. Menus come printed on an old butcher shop invoice backed with old LP record covers – one of many quirks of the Velvet Elvis. West Coast mussels are a great place to start and come with a generous chunk of bread for dipping into the creamy white wine sauce. Mains are a combination of some old favourites alongside some homely options. The rack of herb-crusted lamb is a succulent dish certainly worth the extra few pennies. For those visiting to sample what the bar has to offer there are a decent range of beers, spirits and a comprehensive wine list to enjoy while choosing the next tune on the jukebox. + Laid-back vibe - Seats not the most comfortable

Nevermind fashion, style, chauvinism or political bribery – pizza, pasta, and coffee: that’s what Italy does best. And that’s what Italian-themed bar Vespbar does so very well. The small, quaint venue down Drury Street’s cobbles is renowned for its five-nights-a-week comedy offerings, but if food, not entertainment, is what you’re after, then the well-made, hearty and healthy Italian fayre will see you leave with a smile. With a food menu offering up antipasti, salads, pizzas, and pasta, Vespbar is value for money in à la carte terms. However,

TIP/,67 FOR GOOD PUB GRUB • Bar Gandolﬁ Quality dining from Merchant City’s matriach 115 • Bar Gumbo Deep South done with style and sounds 165 • Bath Street Palomino No horsing about with a new pit-oven menu 116 • The Butterﬂy and the Pig Hearty Scottish favourites in a kooky basement 118 • Mulberry Street Bar Bistro Special Southside spot for quality dining 126 • Nice ’n’ Sleazy Meathammer magic from the kitchen 126 • Stereo Hipster hangout with gigs and great veggie food 128 • Slouch Bath Street bar with a rocking menu 128 • The Two Figs Excellent bar-bistro offerings on Byres Road 129

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 129

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GLASGOW

if you’re watching the pennies, then their pre-theatre offering will leave your tummy and your pockets satisfied. A fantastic range of drinks, comfortable, funky surrounds, attentive staff and soulful musical offering make this a great City Centre choice. + Cool atmosphere - Changing menu meant limited options

Vroni’s Wine & Champagne Bar 47 West Nile Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 70) 0141 221 4677, vronis.co.uk | No Kids, over 21s only | £7.95 (set lunch)

Vroni’s, part of the stable of experienced publican Alan Tomkins, is a beautiful place to go for drinks with the other half, or to meet a group of friends after work. A dark, sultry, wood-clad venue, it is reminiscent of a tasting room in a French winery, with flowers, fairylights and mountains of bottles of wines and Champagnes looming over patrons. Relaxing, romantic music and good service ensures a pleasant evening sipping some of the huge range of wines by the glass on offer. Light bites are sufficient to match the genteel vibe, but make sure to get in early, with food not served after 7pm. A haven for City Centre traders and office workers seeking an enjoyable glass of wine after work, Vroni’s is also a hidden treat for couple’s looking for some romance after a day’s shopping. + Wine choice - Food service finishes early

The Waverley Tea Room 18 Moss Side Road, Southside (Map 8: A4, 18) 0141 616 6818, socialanimal. co.uk | £10.99–£12.99 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

This member of the G1 family is a great place to bring your family or to have a chat over lunch with friends. The brightly lit and somewhat rustic interior gives the space a lovely relaxed atmosphere both in the summer with the fancy glass panelling or in winter within the depths of the thick brick walls. There’s a play area right at the top so it’s very family friendly; however, there’s also a suitable quiet space at the end away from the kids. The food is top quality and very enjoyable, presented by a group of very polite and helpful staff. Mellow jazz and swing tunes play lightly through the place making it easy to relax and get a good gab with your dining partner. The wine shelves used for decoration across the wall stay true to its meaning as there is a good selection of quality wine to enjoy with the range of elegant and traditional meals. + Quality cuisine in a bright setting - Bumped by kids if near play area

4 WEST Brewery Building 4 Templeton Building, Glasgow Green (Map 7: D5, off) 0141 550 0135, westbeer.com | £14.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Who would have thought you could set up a Bavarian brewery in the East End of Glasgow and establish yourself as one of the most talked about places in the city? Not many, but Petra Wetzel

has done it with a charm, success, and character second to none. Set in the old Templeton building on Glasgow Green, WEST Brewery is one of the most admirable ventures in town. The beautiful architecture outside is continued inside, where a traditional German design offers great comfort to a very vast space. A grand piano, sturdy wooden furniture, a huge bar and views of the on-site brewery help make it feel very comfortable. Great German beer is matched with great German food using the best of Scottish produce – except their sausages, which are imported from the Fatherland. A great place for a candle-lit dinner, group meals, and family functions. Dogs and kids as welcome as the umpa band. + Quality of food - Lack of vegetarian options

The White Elephant 128 Merrylee Road, Southside (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 637 5774 | £9.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

The White Elephant, on the site of the former Merrylee Road Bar and Kitchen, is an all-round good-time kind of place. There is music, food and plenty of cocktails to enjoy on a Friday night. In short it is probably exactly the kind of place that is needed in this slightly overlooked neighbourhood of the Southside. The menu offers a lively mix of bistro favourites and seafood options, occasionally veering into more colourful territory. There is a joy about the place that is very appealing. The décor is playful and the social media pages promote the regular music nights and Sunday roasts. A welcome addition. + Appealing atmosphere - À la carte on the pricier side

BISTROS & BRASSERIES For years the bistro section has been the place for innovation and excitement, offering great value and variety to Glasgow’s food scene. But this year the new kids in town seem to be eschewing the somewhat undefined bistro and brasserie format. Instead you will see their likes serving handmade cookies or discussing Guatemalan coffee beans in a café. Or they might be behind the bar, pulling pints of craft beer while explaining the provenance of the venison burgers. They could be setting up a geographically inspired eatery, perhaps Mediterranean or North American. On the one hand it is a good sign, Glasgow diners are better-informed, more interested in specialisation and quality. And on the other it means former hitlisters have not been particularly challenged by newcomers Reviewers: Rowan Anderson, Tiff Griffin, Malcolm McGonigle, Andrea Pearson

Art Lover’s Café House for an Art Lover, Bellahouston Park, 10 Dumbreck Road, Southside See Arts Venues

Baby Grand Wild Cabaret & Wicked Lounge 18 Candleriggs, Merchant City (Map 7: B3, 28) 0141 552 6165, wildcabaret.com | Closed Mon | £20 (lunch) / £30 (dinner)

Glasgow’s second dedicated cabaret bar to appear in recent years, and the first on the scene to go the full distance, with a black velvet and gold sleek interior which gently tips its hat to art deco. This is the raucous underbelly of Glasgow’s thriving cabaret and music scene, but grown up a little and with a hunger for more finely-crafted bar snacks. Sausage rolls are made with a thin pastry and combine wild mushroom and truffle to rich, meaty effect, while a concise evening menu features corn-fed chicken, lamb rump and Shetland salmon with duck egg – imaginative cooking, locally focused, and getting towards the high-end scale of prices. The venue boasts a separate restaurant and cabaret area with shows on display for diners; the stage is intimate yet features a wide variety of acts – cabaret singers, circus performers, showgirl cancans and even sword-swallowers. Meanwhile live bands kick up a storm in the Wicked Lounge, the place for postcabaret carousing, which is well stocked with cocktails such as the bourbon mai tai. + Novel concept with great cooking to back it up - Not really a place for a casual lastminute meal

3–7 Elmbank Gardens, City Centre (Map 6: A2, 9) 0141 248 4942, babygrandglasgow.com | £7.95 (set lunch) / £14.50 (dinner)

Serving up music and main courses to Glasgow diners for 20 years, it’s clear they might be on to something here and there’s no sense they want to fix what isn’t broken. There’s a faded charm, though the traditional menu isn’t quite cheek to cheek with the art deco panels, glowing candles, or this late-night bar’s much-loved vintage piano. After a while, it somewhat melts away while the tinkling melodies blend with the busy hum of conversation. While the mains are solid if not groundbreaking, the market catch fish catches the eye and is good value – fresh grilled mackerel served whole with salsa for bite. The Spanish meat platter is great for the table – toasted bread with olive oil, juicy chorizo and nutty jamón. Crisp Birra Moretti is ideal for accompanying the satisfying mains, although a cocktail might suit the vintage surrounds a little better. Warm, welcoming and as instantly familiar as the songbook filling the room. + A slice of retro-chic in the city - Could spritz up the classics on the menu

Barça Tapas and Cava Bar Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre See Spanish

Le Bistro Beaumartin 161 Hope Street, City Centre See French

Black Sheep Bistro 10 Clarendon Street, West End (Map 9A: H3, 93) 0141 333 1435, blacksheepbistro.co.uk | Closed Mon | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Secreted away on a sidestreet off Maryhill Road, Black Sheep Bistro is a 130 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

4 HITLIST

BISTROS & BRASSERIES 4 Brasserie 19 A winning blend of friendly neighbourhood dining, a diligent kitchen and great service – enough to get city slickers out to the suburbs.

4 The Brasserie at the Chip Fun, flavour and lots of adventure on the plate in unique surroundings from this solid and confident West End institution.

4 Café Gandolfi Traditional Scottish food given the bistro treatment at a place where not much changes and it’s all the better for it. An old friend and enduring favourite rolled into one.

4 Central Market This Merchant City restaurant is a classy spot for enjoying top-quality bistro dishes cooked with skill and imagination.

4 Cookie It has changed little since opening, but with a winning formula of well-sourced and beautifully cooked seasonal produce, why would it? It has put Strathbungo on the foodie map, and other innovators have followed.

4 Epicures of Hyndland Whether it’s splashing out on lunch or an evening meal, this is refined but relaxed neighbourhood dining that’s classy but not too posh to nosh.

4 Fanny Trollope’s Welcoming, cosy little bistro in the heart of hip and trendy Finnieston with impressive cooking, seasonal ingredients and generous portions.

4 Stravaigin Café Bar Still deserving of its reputation for creative culinary alchemy, the food at this Gibson Street stalwart looks excellent and tastes better.

4 Urban Bar and Brasserie Elegant interiors coupled with firstrate cooking are the hallmarks of this plush yet accessible City Centre bistro.

charming and popular family-run bistro serving up traditional Scottish and home-cooked comforts. More café by day with folks in for brekkies, bites and coffees, it goes distinctly more bistro on an evening with diners enjoying generous helpings of the likes of Cullen skink, scallops and black pud, beef olives, mac and cheese, and lamb shank, with indulgent desserts to finish. [Not recently visited.] + Home-style cooking - Maryhill lacks the draw of other parts of town

THE NEW GLASGOW CLASSIC

Behind Hutchesons clean white facade lies a café bar and brasserie in a grand European setting, serving breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner

WWW.HUTCHESONSGLASGOW.COM INFO@HUTCHESONSGLASGOW.COM

158 INGRAM ST GLASGOW G1 1EJ

FACEBOOK.COM/HUTCHESONS @HUTCHESONSGLA

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

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GLASGOW

La Bonne Auberge 161 West Nile Street, City Centre See French

The Bothy 11 Ruthven Lane, West End See Scottish

4 Brasserie 19 19 New Kirk Road, Bearsden, West End (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 942 0865, thepartnersrestaurants.co.uk/ brasserie19 | Closed Mon. | £11.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

When the salmon and crab parcel arrives, dressed with avocado and elegantly arranged orange slices, it’s obvious there’s more than the regular out-of-town bistro at work. Buttery crab meat and zesty orange combine strikingly and it’s all very easy on the eye. On the great-value market menu, standards like Scottish-reared steak with tangy peppercorn sauce are delicious. Dessert finishes it all with aplomb – a delicate and refreshingly light lemon tart, balancing citrus against sweet ice-cream. What’s distinctive about Brasserie 19 is the combination of relaxed neighborhood dining with quality cooking and presentation. The chicken and haggis parcel is homely and highly satisfying, with the menu promising more of the same elsewhere, with seafood casserole, pork belly and Gressingham duck all tempting a repeat visit. Tucked away in Glasgow’s leafy outskirts, it’s easy to miss highlights like this while rushing to the city’s restaurants. Watching busy staff find time to chat to a steady stream of regulars, it’s clear the locals might just be on to something. Who said the ’burbs were boring? + Starters are worth leaving room for - It’s a bit out of town

The Brasserie at Òran Mór 731–735 Great Western Road, West End See Scottish

Epicures of Hyndland (page 134): sophisticated setting and classy food for Glasgow’s affluent Hyndland area

4 The Brasserie at the Chip

Brutti Compadres

12 Ashton Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 34) 0141 334 5007, ubiquitouschip.co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

3 Virginia Court, Merchant City (Map 7: A2, 1) 0141 552 1777, brutticompadres. com | £9 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Ashton Lane’s most mature resident continues to outrun the ever-growing competition by keeping a stern eye on quality and culinary entertainment amid a laid-back, West End vibe. Every corner of the former stable is pressed into service as a set of niche bars surrounding the leafy courtyard, with the Brasserie slung high on a mezzanine overlooking the main restaurant. Vibrant flavours and playful creativity endure. Highland crowdie is an enticing starter of fluffy cheese dunked in a rich, smoked honey sauce scattered with tiny flecks of chive, whisky flavoured raisins, crunchy oatmeal wafers and nuts. It sounds messy but melds beautifully on the tongue underlining the chef’s imagination and expertise. Mains may include a thick yielding chunk of slow-cooked pork shoulder exuding the flavours of a good Sunday roast but lifted with intense notes of rosemary pesto and yeasty mead sauce. The Brasserie has a less fussy feel than its big brother but is served by the same kitchens, and though prices are lower, diners here still get the full Chip treatment: affable service, exciting food, knowledgeable sommeliers and access to the comprehensive wine cellar. + Imaginative, tasty and orginal cooking - Slimmer portions than the restaurant so order a side or two

Tucked away in Virginia Court, Brutti Compadres brings a vibrant and fun Mediterranean vibe to the Merchant City. The contemporary bar is light and arty with chic modern furniture encouraging a casual, informal atmosphere. There’s an impressive choice of refreshments on offer from continental lagers on draft to proper Italian coffee. Food comes tapas style, with a wealth of choices from an extensive menu. Chickpea stew is hearty with chunks of halloumi adding a rich and creamy dimension, while albóndigas are juicy and served with a salsa full of fresh tomato and garlic flavours, and hot chorizo is spicy and sizzling. Angry prawns, enraged by chilli, are lip-tinglingly fresh and fiery while at the opposite end of the heat scale a perfectly moist lemon chicken offers zingy and herby flavours. Brutti Compadres has something for everyone, including breads, pastas, salads and wonderful homemade mini pizzas. There’s also ample outdoor seating and a bargain lunch deal. A little piece of Barcelona only a few minutes away from Buchanan Street. + Relaxed holiday vibe - Can be hard to find

Brel 39–43 Ashton Lane, West End See Bars & Pubs 132 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Brutti Ma Buoni

This chic Southside eatery is every bit as trendy as its West End cousins, the Two Figs and the Left Bank. Large windows and stripped-back walls give a cool urban vibe – the restaurant offers a cosy place for families taking advantage of childfriendly neighbourhood dining, while the post-work crowd can enjoy the extensive wine list and daily specials – appealing both for the innovative use of flavours and value for money. The menu centres on wholesome, well-cooked food that has an eclectic, global feel. Chickpea hummus is smooth and creamy, a whisper of paprika adding a smoky warmth. Wild mushrooms, full of rich truffle flavour – salty parmesan contrasting well with the sweet earthy fungi. North Sea haddock is deep-fried in a vivacious herb batter, which goes perfectly with the tartness of mushy peas and homemade chips while succulent roast chicken is filled with sage and walnut stuffing, the nutty flavours permeating the meat beautifully. For dessert, poached pear has a delicate flavour beside praline ice-cream and rich chocolate sauce. A relaxed, friendly place that has atmosphere and appeal. + Neighbourhood dining with a global menu - Toilets could do with a bit of TLC

The Butchershop Bar & Grill

Brunswick Hotel, 106 Brunswick Street, Merchant City See Bars & Pubs

1055 Sauchiehall Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 14) 0141 339 2999, butchershopglasgow.com | £13.95 (set lunch) / £28 (dinner)

The Bungo Bar & Kitchen

In plain view of Kelvingrove Art Gallery, the Butcher Shop is in a location as prime as the cuts on the menu. Animated and buzzing even on weeknights, the

17–21 Nithsdale Road, Southside (Map 8: C2, 7) 0141 423 0023, thebungo.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

subdued wood tones of the bar, leather booths of various sizes and the occasional overhanging plant combine to create an intimately luxurious atmosphere. It’s well matched to the allure of the sizzling steaks appearing from the kitchen. For adventurous palates, expertly seasoned steak tartare is intense and richly textured, while route-one diners will savour the velvety wallop of the ribeye. While the meat takes centre stage, dressed crab with wasabi mayo makes a light starter, leaving room for the bovine delights to follow. Knowledgeable staff recommend béarnaise sauce as the ideal accompaniment. They aren’t wrong – it’s great for dunking crispy hand-cut chips in. Of course, meat like this demands an accompanying red wine and both the house red – a dark yet fruity Sangiovese – and the Rioja match the quality of the steaks. Indulgent but sociable, and highly recommended. + One of the best steaks in town - Can be a little noisy

4 Café Gandolfi 64 Albion Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 18) 0141 552 6813, cafegandolfi.com | £17.50 (lunch) / £17.50 (dinner)

It’s the waiter that’s been working there for 30 years, affectionate portraits of Glasgow’s great cafés lining the walls and the quirky wooden chairs that sum up Gandolfi. A celebration of enduring tradition and a hint of faded grandeur. Seasonal Scottish produce fills the menu: Barra scallops, Rannoch venison and a chunky lamb stew with bacon and cabbage. More refined is the creamy haddock and king prawn pasta, whose subtle hint of saffron brings a delicate fragrance absorbed by the rich sauce. You

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

In association with

can sample classics like Cullen skink or sourdough pastrami, but the combination of Highland quail and oriental seasoning is too intriguing to miss. There’s a warm, lively atmosphere, under windows big enough to let in light by day but set high enough up the wall to block out the Merchant City’s bustle. The daily cheesecake is tempting but the raspberry pot, with sharp fruit and indulgently gooey white chocolate, is proof that less is often more. Linger, sample an impressive wine list, or a sociable half carafe of peppery house red, and enjoy the oldschool glamour. + Class, style and substance - No pre-theatre

Cafezique 66 Hyndland Street, West End (Map 9A: B2, 6) 0141 339 7180, delizique.com | £15 (lunch) / £19 (dinner)

With its scuffed shop front, Cafezique has the feel of a casual eatery (or indeed an old dairy, as the reclaimed shop sign announces), but beyond the large windows awaits a welcoming modern interior with open kitchen, trendy bar and stripped stone walls. Everything is cooked on the premises and many of the artisan ingredients, including fabulous fresh bread, are shipped in from its sister operation next door. A seasonal approach means menus change throughout the year and impeccable sourcing ensures the highest quality. From the ‘small’ section, Orkney crab risotto is light and mild, with hints of basil and lime while a special of Shetland mussels comes in a bowl of creamy coriander broth. A main of pork sausage stew, although enjoyable, lacks drama, served in a soup bowl with a bit bread. But the Zique burger, with its bacon, beetroot relish and polenta chips is a livelier prospect, being smoky, tangy and filling. A popular lunch destination for Westenders, Cafezique also specialises in breakfasts and late dining. + Top quality ingredients - Plastic bucket chairs

4 Central Market 51 Bell Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 19) 0141 552 0902, centralmarketglasgow.com | £20 (lunch) / £23 (dinner)

The food at Central Market appears to be almost effortlessly accomplished. The bistro’s impressive oyster and champagne bar takes centre stage in the cleverly designed, two-tier space – with airier ground floor looking out through huge windows on to a less-travelled corner of the Merchant City and a more discreet mezzanine. Premium seafood sourced from Scotland’s waters is heavily featured, but also on offer are a range of more straightforward and familiar staples, such as steaks and burgers, alongside items that are rarely seen on menus in Glasgow. These include, for example, an enjoyable starter of beef brisket with sriracha mayo and mushroom kimchi and a main course of spatchcock poussin with chipotle, root vegetable salad and blue cheese dressing. On the dessert menu, there’s a Scottish classic with an enticing twist – apple cranachan. The chefs’ talents are to the fore throughout, quite rightly, as they work away, quietly conjuring up platefuls that delight in both taste and texture. The industrial interior and minimal menu descriptions signal a bistro that is modern in outlook, dishing up plates of top food. + Crab tart brimming with exciting flavours - Industrial minimalism can feel a little detached

Chinaski’s 239 North Street, West End See Bars & Pubs

Citation 40 Wilson Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B2, 9) 0141 559 6799, citation-glasgow. com | £11.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

It would be great if waiting staff in this stunning, former sheriff court building, said: ‘You’ve been served!’ as they handed over the food. But there is no such cheesiness here; it’s just a good, honest (naturally) bistro in the heart of the Merchant City. And you certainly don’t need to rob a bank to go these days – the regularly changing pre-theatre deals and all-in special offers make it an affordable option. The menu offers steaks, chicken and a daily risotto with a few exciting flourishes such as the pot roast Highland venison or the wilted kale with anchovy, chilli and garlic served with pan-fried Scottish salmon. The dishes don’t always live up to the descriptions – the kale, for instance, is transformed into a spinach-like paste with the saltiness of anchovy but no discernible chilli. But aside from the slight oversell in the menu, it is an ideal place for a convivial evening out with the option of spilling down the stairs to the comfy piano bar afterwards. + Grand party setting with modest prices - Inevitably a few corners are being cut

City Café Bar and Grill Hilton Garden Inn, Finnieston Quay, West End (Map 9B: G3, off) 0141 227 1010, hiltongardeninn3.hilton.com | £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Nestled on the river Clyde, adjacent to the spectacular Clyde Arc, the location of City Café impresses. The outdoor seating area is a pleasant spot for riverside refreshments in the sun. Inside, minimalist décor and linen napkins give this hotel restaurant an elegant feel, while large windows give spectacular views of the river. Caesar salad comes generous, crispy and appropriately dressed though lacks the zing of parmesan-anchovy flavours expected. Warm brie tartlet sounds invitingly creamy; however, the addition of pistachios offers more texture than taste. Succulent chicken beside garden vegetables lacks a flavour edge, but the lamb is cooked to a perfect fall-off-the-bone tender. Cheesecake is creamy and cool and partnered perfectly with a refreshingly tart fruit coulis. City Café has aimed its operation towards the hotel diner or drop-in music fan on the way to the Hydro. A bit more attention to detail regarding flavours, colours and cohesion might attract a more discerning diner. + Outdoor seating and extensive wine list - Lacking impressive flavours

4 Cookie 72 Nithsdale Road, Southside (Map 8: C2, 6) 0141 423 1411, cookiescotland. com | Closed Mon | £11.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

After nearly five years Cookie is now well established in the Southside, but it has not taken its foot off the gas for a second in its drive to be a cut above your average neighbourhood eatery. There is a constant desire to deliver a good, affordable, seasonal menu that showcases Italian fare. The menu changes daily according to supplies, but there will always be a tart and a soup of the day, a good range of rustic, slow-cooked meats served on a wholesome bed of perhaps puy lentils, and some theatrical showstoppers for the chefs to perform in the open kitchen – a pan-fried sea bass with a bright flash of fresh lemon juice. The prices are remarkable, there’s a two-course pre-theatre menu at £11.95 (a tenner if patrons can actually produce a theatre ticket from the Citz) while an express lunch of pork belly with borlotti beans and red peppers is available for

a fiver. The last Sunday in the month is given over to Chef Wars – a friendly competition to help new and aspiring cooks. Cookie has a laudable attitude to seasonal produce, cooking and the community. + Perfectly poached pear - Toilets could do with some TLC

The Corinthian Club 191 Ingram Street, City Centre (Map 7: B2, 3) 0141 552 1101, thecorinthianclub. co.uk | No Kids | £12.50 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

It’s hard not to be impressed on entering the cavernous Corinthian dining area. Soaring walls, ornate plasterwork and a majestic glass dome create the impression of a sumptuous ballroom from a former era. The floor is lined with tall, curved, purple booths and lit by outsized table lamps. Waiters work the room dressed in black formal attire offset by trendy Converse trainers. In any other city the Corinthian would be exclusive and pricey, but the G1 group know their customer base and shrewdly aim their menu toward the mainstream bistrogoing punter (albeit with a few luxurious touches like oysters and côte de boeuf from the grill). A starter of eggs Benedict is nicely handled with a perfectly poached egg and punchy homemade hollandaise while a main of coq au vin has firm and juicy chicken thighs steeped in rich tomato sauce with bright herby highlights accompanied by spinach and crisp roasted spuds. Cocktails are popular here and quite inexpensive for a central venue, but vino enthusiasts be warned, the wine list is restricted to four each of red and white. + Friendly and efficient service - Limited wine choice

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My food is Real Food. I do not follow trends or fads. Every dish on my menus is there because I like to cook and eat it. My sushi, raviolis, mince and tatties are prepared applying the same attention to detail, fabulous standard of ingredients and passion as every other plate I serve. Desserts are lovingly crafted in my kitchen from the ice cream to the crumble. Guy’s Restaurant & Bar 24 Candleriggs, Merchant City Glasgow G1 1LD Tel: 0141 552 1114 Email: info@guysrestaurant.co.uk

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Cottier’s Bar and Restaurant

perfect antithesis to creamy cheese. Honey oak-smoked hot salmon is flaky – the delicately smoky flavour given an exotic edge by a vibrant fresh mango salsa. Pan-seared wood pigeon is cooked to a perfect pink, well matched with smoked bacon, savoy cabbage and a creamy mash, while braised ox cheeks, eight hours in the making, are tender and tasty in a port and red wine reduction. Third courses may be a challenge – however, the tempting chocolate hazelnut and peanut butter shortcake is luscious, the pistachio anglaise contrasting nicely with the chocolate. + Locally sourced, expertly prepared ingredients - Tables are close

93–95 Hyndland Street, West End (Map 9A: B2, 4) 0141 357 5825, cottiers.com | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

With leaded windows, fairy lights and gently flickering candles, Cottier’s does romance well. Hidden in the attic of a restored church and complete with gilded ceiling, the restaurant is elegant and intimate. The glamorous yet unpretentious feel of the building is echoed in the food. Asparagus in beurre blanc sauce crowned with a poached duck egg is a velvety delight, fresh and expertly prepared. Handmade ravioli are filled with a punchy goat’s cheese and sweetened by a red pepper paste, all decadently drizzled in sage butter. Harissa-glazed chicken is heady and fragrant, partnered with a warm herb couscous which has enough warm, earthy flavours to star in its own right. A refreshing mint salad brings a welcome cool that counters the heat of the harissa perfectly. Slow-cooked pork belly is rich, sticky and succulent with the accompanying creamy tower of dauphinoise. Rich sticky toffee pudding makes for a very happy ending. A meal of such decadence needn’t be overly exclusive with Cottier’s offering an excellent value prix fixe menu. + Understated elegance of food and venue - Signage for restaurant could be clearer

Firebird 1321 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 10) 0141 334 0594, firebirdglasgow. com | £7.50 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Delizique 70–72 Hyndland Street, West End See Cafés

The Drake 1 Lynedoch Street, West End (Map 9B: F1, 43) 0141 332 7363, thedrakebar. co.uk/bar | £7.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

The Drake is a gastro pub tucked into a tenement in Woodlands. It balances the welcoming cheer of a neighbourhood boozer – with sports on the telly and big, comfy sofas – with a contemporary Scottish eatery. The bar is a stopover for locals and clubbers – there’s a DJ at weekends and folk night on a Sunday. Through the week food is served in the basement bar but at weekends a candle-lit and comfortingly old-fashioned dining area is opened up on the floor above. Despite the traditional surroundings of big fireplaces and sash windows, the food is far from old-school. Scottishness and creativity are showcased in the seasonal menu and a new grill has been added to offer a range of burgers, steaks and chops. Traditional fare is given a contemporary treatment. Uig Lodge smoked salmon is formed into rich, buttery risotto balls; perfectly pink pigeon is served simply on a bed of rocket; and a hearty pork chop is spiced

Tempus Bar & Restaurant (page 136): exciting food in an opulent setting

up by a rich Stornoway black pudding mash. Fasting before a visit might be good as it is a button-busting calorie fest. + Exciting menu - Rich food overload

Eat Café 69 Kilmarnock Road, Southside See Cafés

Eat Deli 16 Busby Rd, Clarkston, Southside See Cafés

4 Epicures of Hyndland 159 Hyndland Road, West End (Map 9A: A1, 1) 0141 334 3599, epicuresofhyndland.com | £12 (set lunch) / £17.50 (dinner)

The laid-back but stylish atmosphere is happily not too refined to make

you feel guilty for ordering the boozy knickerbocker glory for dessert. It’s a gloriously indulgent mix of ice-cream, chunks of brownie and liqueur. Therein lies the strength of this rather continental bistro – casual European sophistication and high-quality cuisine in the setting of one of Glasgow’s most affluent neighbourhoods. Rich and intensely flavoured scallops or the lightness of crab spring rolls in delicate pastry are a fine start. After that, wonderfully tender steak, with the quirky addition of onion rings speared to the board, is an altogether heartier affair. Despite the option for more formal dining upstairs, the inviting ground floor space makes long elegant windows ideal for people watching. Cod fillet in lemon sauce is an intriguing combination and popular with the regulars. Of which there are many: the commuter rush for coffee and breakfast, an afternoon coffee-and-cake crowd and the evening clientele ranging from couples to families. A local favourite for good reason – chic yet unaffectedly so. + It’s a touch of class all round - Music lets the side down

4 Fanny Trollope’s 1066 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 32) 0141 564 6464, fannytrollopes. co.uk | Closed Mon. | £22 (dinner)

This cosy bistro located in the heart of hip and trendy Finnieston offers simple yet impressive cooking centred on an ethos of high quality and locally sourced ingredients. Tables are arranged galley style, with works by Scottish artists dotting the walls, creating a cosy homely atmosphere, a theme continued by the welcoming waiting staff. Although the restaurant is small, the portions are large. A starter of tangy roquefort is served with apples and pickled walnuts – the 134 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

As befits a good neighbourhood venue, the atmosphere here is warm and welcoming. A chic interior of stripped stone and orange walls plays host to the thrumming backdrop of chattering locals who surely consider themselves lucky to have such a fine eatery on the doorstep. Renowned for wood-fired pizzas, which have a thin, smoky crust (available in gluten-free versions, too) the Firebird kitchen has also been developing a vibrant bistro menu to keep those regulars entertained. Starter of smoked ham hock is a triumph, the pulled meat being rich, dense and aromatic, scattered with little hits of blue cheese alongside a sweet salad of peas and watercress plus a sharp mustard spread adding serious uplift to proceedings. From the mains, confit of duck is moist and tender, bundled with chunky squash gnocchi on a bed of sweet roasted veg with crispy sage – a nicely balanced set of flavours that reveal the chefs’ flair for creative twists. With flavours this good and a burgeoning creativity, it’s easy to see why Firebird’s reputation is on the up. + Relaxed atmosphere with engaging, cheery service - A bit pricey for a local bistro

Gandolfi Fish 84 Albion Street, Merchant City See Fish

The Gannet 1155 Argyle Street, West End See Scottish

The Giffnock Ivy 219 Fenwick Road, Giffnock, Southside (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 620 1003, giffnockivy.co.uk | Closed Mon. | £11 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

The Ivy is an upmarket restaurant across the road from the foodie-haven of Whole Foods Market in Giffnock. It is smart and welcoming, and the menu dazzles with good ideas and continental dishes that don’t always appear in such outlying districts. These range from an outright sensible fresh market fish of the day and an oven-baked ratatouille to the rather more obscure confit of salmon Napoleon. However, staff are clearly on message and able to answer any questions. Food is presented with flair on pristine white china and a two-course evening meal at £15 offers great value. Where it falters at times is in taste. A goulash contains beautifully cooked, tender beef pieces but lacks a paprika kick and a Baileys chocolate mousse must contain little more than a thimbleful of actual liqueur – or indeed chocolate. However, the immaculate presentation and polite staff ensure it continues to be a draw with social diners. + Good chicken liver parfait - Style over substance

BISTROS & BRASSERIES

In association with

GLASGOW

The Grill on the Corner

The Italian Bistro

21–25 Bothwell Street, City Centre (Map 6: D4, 83) 0141 248 6262, blackhouse. uk.com/glasgow | £12.95 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

1051 Great Western Road, West End See Italian

The atmosphere in the Grill on the Corner is one of a party for grown-ups. There is chilled jazz playing in the background and a cluster of patrons chat in the cocktail lounge. Its signature cocktail is the Smoky Old Fashioned, combining a peaty malt and maple syrup for a Celtic twist on a classic. But in the food there are few such twists. Priding itself in serving ‘honest simple food’, the menu focuses on familiar options of steaks, burgers and seafood. But as one outlet in a small collection of restaurants in the Blackhouse group, it is tied to a UK-wide supplier of beef. That said, the steaks – and there is a wide and very clearly explained range to choose from – are excellent nonetheless. The sides and starters, however, don’t quite match up to the quality of the main attractions. But staff are engaging and generous with their advice so a good night out, as well as a great steak, is guaranteed. + Fillet steak - Conservative menu

7a Lansdowne Crescent, West End See Bars & Pubs

Guy’s Restaurant & Bar 24 Candleriggs, Merchant City, Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 34) 0141 552 1114, guysrestaurant.co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

To paraphrase an estate agent: early dining recommended. Guy’s offers well-sourced ingredients and exquisite cooking at rather gob-smacking prices in its pre-theatre menu. And the cut-off time is a very generous 9pm midweek. The deal includes such great choice – five starters, six mains and four generous desserts. The restaurant is rightly famed for its pasta (cooked for exactly four minutes and 32 seconds) so the seasonal ravioli – duck or crab perhaps – tends to sell out by the end of the weekend. Owing to the restaurant’s hi-tech wine-storing system, a mouthwatering 30 wines are available by the glass. But it is not all serious and sciencey. For the last year, Guy’s has been offering a tongue-in-cheek Scottish tapas. Now its most popular dish, the mini showcase of finest Scotch meat features a steak pie, mince ’n’ tatties, a wee Macsween’s haggis and a poke of chips. Among the healthier options, the simple green salad, delicate strips of cucumber lightly tossed in a lemon and olive oil, is a perfect counterpoint to the Scottish protein overload. These guys know what they are doing. + Quality at a knock-down price - Tables a bit close together

Hutchesons 158 Ingram Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B2, 6) , hutchesonsglasgow.com |

Glasgow has had a few openings to look forward to recently but Hutchesons in the Merchant City looks like it could be something rather special. Coming from the same stable as the enjoyably classy steakhouse the Butchershop Bar & Grill (see page 132) at Kelvingrove Park gives the place plenty of food credentials but it is the setting that looks set to impress the crowds. Owner James Rusk is converting the A-listed Hutchesons’ Hall, which has lain empty for five years, to create a distinctive three-floored café-bar and restaurant that will show off good food amid the grandeur of the imposing edifice. [Not yet open at time of going to press – see food.list.co.uk for updates.]

iKafe 138 Nithsdale Road, Southside See Cafés

The Lansdowne Bar & Kitchen

The Left Bank 33–35 Gibson Street, West End (Map 9A: E3, 75) 0141 339 5969, theleftbank.co.uk | £15 (lunch) /£17 (dinner)

Informal service and a confident kitchen are the hallmarks at the Left Bank where tall windows and high ceilings create a sense of space in the wood-panelled, brick-studded room. Waiters exude a laid-back vibe among a diverse clientele from young families to student groups to romancing couples. Starters of herby meatballs are a chunky mix of lamb and pork in an intense tomato sauce with a hint of chilli, while crunchy balls of chickpea fritters have a springy core and an abundance of spiky flavours – chilli, coriander and mint. Mains are served all day and may include fruity Goan chicken in a light coconut broth with a green chilli zing or the impressive kebab of juicy grilled halloumi served on roasted chickpeas and tomato ragoût – spiced and seasoned to perfection. Sides like Lebanese potatoes, chips or pitta flatbreads are reasonably priced and recommended as portions may need shored up here and there. Brunch is always popular especially at weekends, and the 3/2/1 deal (3 courses for two people plus a bottle of wine) is fantastic value at just £30. + Classy and chilled - Limited wine list for such a classy place

Lucky 7 Canteen 166 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 45) 0141 331 6227, lucky7canteen.co.uk | Closed Sun/Mon. | £9.50 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

In a street packed with competitors, an appealing mix of value and quality keep this bistro up with the rest. Standout value lunch menus keep the office crowds happy, and the attractive selection of £7.77 mains reference the numerical theme. Though gourmet burgers and fish and chips don’t reinvent the wheel, there’s no need when done simply and served fresh, plus veggies will welcome five choices on the daily menu. Elsewhere there are some familiar sights – crisp and juicy pork belly comes with rich apple-tinted gravy while the coq au vin is heartily robust and packed with flavour. Knowingly retro desserts match the studied shabby chic décor. Those that make it that far can enjoy a classy version of an ice-cream van double nougat, with eye-catching presentation. Carefully mismatched wallpaper panels, booth seating and long canteen tables create a laid-back late-night ambience, with thoughtfully chosen playlists adding to the mood. It’s something of a chameleon: weekends liven up with a busy bar and up-tempo atmosphere, though like the weeknights, its hip without being hipster. + Bistro quality food at bar prices - Menu could wander off the beaten track a bit

Malmaison 278 West George Street, City Centre See French

Metropolitan Merchant Square, Candleriggs, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 20) 0141 553 1488, metropolitan-bar.com | £8.95 (set lunch – Sat only) / £24 (dinner)

Tucked into a corner beneath the twinkling colourful canopy of Merchant Square, Metropolitan is the kind of flamboyant destination Glasgow does

so well. The classic Victorian façade of the former Fruitmarket is dressed with art deco fittings, colourful lighting and contemporary drapes to act as a glamorous backdrop to a bustling lounge, restaurant, private rooms and champagne bar. The bistro occupies two balconies overlooking the courtyard and is surprisingly roomy with a menu that honours the staples: mature steaks, rack of lamb, free-range chicken breast, and Stornoway salmon, although there’s enough complexity in the sauces and accompaniments to keep the dishes fresh and exciting. A starter of seared scallops comes in a sweetcorn purée sprinkled with the tiniest crumbs of chorizo and two medallions of honeyed chicken wings adding smoky sweetness to the main feature. Elsewhere, a rack of lamb, cooked to perfection, is doused with a sharp rosemary jus and lined up alongside delicately layered chunks of potato and pumpkin dauphinoise and buttery cabbage to create a blinged-up twist on the conventional roast. + Robust portions and engaging service - Low on atmosphere when the square is quiet

Moyra Jane’s 20 Kildrostan Street, Southside See Cafés

Mulberry Street Bar Bistro 778 Pollokshaws Road, Southside See Bars & Pubs

Mussel Inn 157 Hope Street, City Centre See Fish

No. Sixteen 16 Byres Road, West End See Scottish

Ox and Finch 920 Sauchiehall Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 19), oxandfinch.com

Jonathan MacDonald has been at the forefront of the latest trends in dining in Glasgow. The former McLaren F1 team head chef runs events caterers Scoop, a major force in the the city’s exciting street food scene via the conglomerate of vendors that is the Street Food Cartel. The cartel’s pop-up dining events saw them grab a spot in last year’s Hot 100 – wherein The List highlights the most influential people and groups across the country. His latest venture sees a more bricks-and-mortar approach, opening up a bar-bistro on the old Konaki site just round the corner from all the supertrendy food happenings in Finnieston, and a stone’s throw from the park. Expect diligently prepared small plates, with a sharing element, taking in plenty of global flavours, plus a craft beer focus. See also Jonathan’s Table Talk on page 166. [Not yet open at the time of going to press – see food.list.co.uk for updates.]

Williams Bros keep the Scottish theme going. Popularity with online voucher schemes means a quick turnover of tables and occasionally overstretched staff, and bargain prices may mean missing out on lingering over dinner. + Marvellous mussels - Inconsistent mains

Plum Tree 6 Wilson Street, Merchant City, Merchant City See Cafés

Red Onion 257 West Campbell Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 42) 0141 221 6000, redonion.co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £19.50 (dinner)

The presentation and imagination here tells you there is more than the average Glasgow chef at work. With over 20 years under his belt, restaurateur and head chef John Quigley’s diners are in experienced hands. There is finesse and rustic simplicity in the food – tender roast chicken comes with luxuriously textured gravy and the crayfish risotto is bursting with Mediterreanean flavours, thoughtfully matched with the accompanying grilled sea bream. By contrast, crisp potato cakes and smoked salmon make for a more subtle opener. The décor may not accompany the contemporary menu as well as it might, yet the skill of the kitchen is a swift distraction. Dessert showcases this best – sliced banana caramelised for a combination of soft and crunch, set against subtly intense vanilla cheesecake and drizzled salted caramel sauce. Gluten-free diners can enjoy a specially prepared à la carte menu, with Thursdays the day to come. With a consistently high standard throughout, the set menu and lunch offers give the chance to sample these dishes at an attractive price. A reliably classy option in the city. + Skill and style throughout - Décor needs refreshed

Rhubarb 122–124 Nithsdale Road, Pollokshields, Southside (Map 8: B2, 4) 0141 424 4600, rhubarbglasgow.co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Rhubarb is a terrific neighbourhood bistro. Its neat stone walls and deerprint cushions give it a sophisticated alternative vibe – like the kind of place one might stumble upon in a sidestreet of Brighton or Vancouver rather than Pollokshields. It sources most of its ingredients on the doorstep – including some veg from a local allotment and meat from Cranston’s up the street. Rhubarb features on the menu in the signature dish of rhubarb and lemon chicken served with a brandy sauce. The

The Pelican Café

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A former List best newcomer parked right opposite one of Glasgow’s most recognisable landmarks, the elegant Kelvingrove Art Gallery. Scottish with a twist and local seafood fill the menu: the classic moules marinières are juicy and smothered in rich creamy sauce, exactly as they should be. A generous hunk of hake in sweet Provençal sauce tastes of Mediterranean sun, with a hint of smoke from the chargrilled vegetables. From the Pelican Classics menu, pork belly with vegetable casserole doesn’t hit the heights of its constituent parts so perhaps going with fish is the key. The langoustines for two seems excellent value while a range of beers from the

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sour fruit offers a delicious counterpoint to the rich creamy sauce. Some dishes are quite pricey; a fairly simple salmon salad is almost at the £10 mark. However, the execution is consistently good and there are some great deals – the soups are terrific and a sandwich combo comes in at £6, and there’s a two-course pre-theatre available midweek. It all makes for an enjoyable dining experience – either in the day as the sun streams in through the huge, glass folding doors, or at night as candles flicker on the tables. + Great food from and on the doorstep - Pre-bagged salad leaves let the sides down

Roastit Bubbly Jocks 450 Dumbarton Road, West End See Scottish

Rock Lobster Bar & Grill 1/4 Virginia Court, Merchant City See Fish

Rogano 11 Exchange Place, City Centre See Fish

The Shandon Belles 652 Argyle Street, City Centre (Map 9B: G3, off) 0141 221 8188, twofatladiesrestaurant.com/ shandonbelles | £15 (set lunch) / £15 (set dinner)

The Shandon Belles sits underneath Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery. Planned as a lighter, quicker, cheaper alternative to the well-known fine-dining establishment, it offers no-fuss, fixed price lunches and dinners. This, and the cheerful, quirky décor, makes it an ideal spot for friends or colleagues who want to avoid the stress of divvying up the bill. It is also a few minutes’ walk from the new Hydro. As would be expected from the pedigree of the Two Fats parent group, the food and the service is very good. It is not exactly groundbreaking but it is very well put together and with three courses for £18 it offers fantastic value for money. There are other benefits of the group ties. Diners are welcome to enjoy the plush Buttery bar first and – because of the steep steps – wheelchair users and their guests can, by prior arrangement, eat from the Shandon Belles menu upstairs. And, as an extra nod to people and the planet, there are two Plan Bee hives on the roof enabling Two Fat Ladies to produce its own honey. + Quality dining at great value - Feels like a basement

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps and links, go to

food.list.co.uk confit is a fruity and gamey adventure, bombarded with Asian notes of soy, ginger and lychee on coconut-dressed salad. A main of bread and butter savoury pudding dispels any fears of it being a ‘posh piece’ on first chomp – its moist soft texture imbued with rich cheese and carmelised onion accompanied by sweet carrot purée, shredded leeks and little chunks of pickled cauliflower – capturing perfectly the Stravaigin dictum of Scottish ingredients with global flavours. Although the café bar is served by the same kitchens as the restaurant downstairs, it’s a less formal affair with colourful reclaimed panels, cosy booths, wooden tables and junk shop paraphernalia dotted around the walls. Sundays are special here too, where the ‘brunch only’ menu features all the classics from 11am until 5pm. + High-end adventurous cooking in relaxed surroundings - High-end prices

Tempus Bar and Restaurant Grand Central Hotel, 99 Gordon Street, City Centre (Map 6: D4, 86) 0141 240 3700, hotelgrandcentralglasgow.co.uk | £25 (dinner)

This fine-dining establishment would be a perfect date-night choice. It is worth pausing in the reception of this multi award-winning hotel to see the John Logie Baird plaque, and perhaps the picture of Alex Salmond, in whose honour staff created the Salmond 75 cocktail (Hendricks gin with cucumber). The menu has an international flavour that suits the international clientele, but there

are Scottish flashes such as the signature dish of haggis with ‘Bard’s bree sauce’. The menu in Tempus is always exciting – bolognese sauce is made with wild boar, monkfish tail is served with braised gem lettuce in a lightly spiced laksa sauce, and the pork belly with pear cider jus is carved at your table. There is plenty of choice – a range of dishes can be served as nibbles, starters or main courses. And there is a confidence in the execution of even the simplest dishes – the beetroot, butternut squash and feta salad has a delicate hazelnut oil dressing that balances the flavours perfectly. Overall the opulent setting is romantic and there is a true sense of occasion. + Exciting menu well executed - Quiet music means other diners whoops a little disturbing

Tibo 443 Duke Street, Dennistoun, East End (Map 7: D1, off) 0141 550 2050, cafetibo. com | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

There’s much more of this informal cosy bistro than appears through its large windows on a corner of Duke Street. Arranged over two levels divided by a lush bar, the back area is overlooked by a plethora of colourful oil paintings while the lower level nearer the door boasts coffee and cream walls with large-print drapes and views out to the street. A buzzy atmosphere persists all day and night as Tibo is ideally placed to catch breakfast, lunch, coffee and dinner hunters with a busy kitchen that works seven days a week. A set of pick and mix menus encourages dabbling in anything from French toast to pizza to kedgeree. A generous starter of warm salad with yielding chunks of ham hough is rustic and filling amid beetroot, apple and Ayrshire Dunlop cheddar in a lively lemony, mint dressing. Main of lamb tagine is rife with sparkling authentic Moroccan spices and lots of chunky soft meat with deep, dark, almost chocolatey flavours served on a light coconut couscous. Friendly, enthusiastic waiting staff help keep the Tibo experience relaxed and entertaining. + Great value, quality ingredients and

generous portions - Small sweet menu

Tron Theatre 63 Trongate, Merchant City See Arts Venues

Two Fat Ladies • 88 Dumbarton Road, West End • 118a Blythswood Street, City Centre See Fish

The Two Figs 5 and 9 Byres Road, West End See Bars & Pubs

4 Urban Bar & Brasserie 23–25 St Vincent Place, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 98) 0141 248 5636, urbanbrasserie. co.uk | £14.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

The classical exterior of this former bank building gives way to a large suitably opulent room lined with sumptuous leather booths, white tablecloths, tall lamps, globe lighting and leafy plants alongside a lush cocktail bar. As befits the air of swish formal dining, waiters in classic black and white uniforms work the floor with a studied grace. Chef David Clunas knows his stuff and makes the most of seasonal ingredients. A starter of crottin goat’s cheese and fig tart has a sharp bite with gooey caramel undertow on a sweet tomato and red pepper base with crumbly pastry. From the mains, confit duck is moist and rich, its dark rosemary-tinged juices brought to life by thick slices of vivid Toulouse sausage, while a fillet of bream steamed in a paper parcel abounds with sea-fresh flavours and holds its own against a sharp teriyaki sauce. A small but nicely balanced wine list adds further finesse to proceedings and completes the feel of a restaurant that has the style and expertise of a fine-dining destination – at bistro prices. + Excellent cooking in atmospheric surroundings - Limited vegetarian choices

Wee Lochan 340 Crow Road, West End See Scottish

Simply Fish 111 Cleveden Road, West End See Fish

The Sisters Jordanhill 1a Ashwood Gardens, 512 Crow Road, West End See Scottish

The Sisters Kelvingrove 36 Kelvingrove Street, West End See Scottish

Sloans 62 Argyll Arcade, City Centre See Bars & Pubs

4 Stravaigin Café Bar 28 Gibson Street, West End (Map 9A: F3, 74) 0141 334 2665, stravaigin.com | £12.95 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

Since its debut almost 20 years ago, this outlet has maintained a reputation for creative and interesting food that won’t be under threat any time soon. A bistro that boasts cucumber cannelloni, fried cuttlefish and crispy pig’s ear on its lunch menu isn’t looking for an easy life but neither is it being clever for its own sake. Case in point: a starter of shredded duck 136 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Urban Bar & Brasserie: sophisticated dining at this restaurant and cocktail lounge close to George Square

CAFES

In association with

GLASGOW

CAFES Glasgow’s diverse collection of cafés ranges from super sandwich purveyors and deli extraordinaires to expert tea brewers and Global culinary specialists. The bind that ties them all is a dedication to good cooking and ensuring diners leave with a smile on their face. Cafés can come and go at an alarming rate but many in this section are old hands, featured in these pages for years, and are well practised in giving patrons an enjoyable feed or an uplifting brew. Of course, there are plenty of new openers, setting out stalls and competing in a marketplace that is undeniably crowded but full of passion, commitment and heaps of coffee. Reviewers: Kat Borrowdale, Sucheta Dutt, David Kirkwood, Kirsty Logan, Malcolm McGonigle, Andrea Pearson, Lewis Renton

venture from the original owners of Tribeca in Partick, who recently sold their American diner to set up this smaller but no less US-flavoured operation, signalled by shiny Vespas outside. On offer are enjoyable breakfasts, including filled croissants and pancake stacks with lashings of butter and syrup, and lunchtime sustenance such as panini melts and wraps with Transatlantic themes, as well as enticing French dip rolls of various meats for dipping in gravy. Takeaways for the local business-brains drive much of the footfall but the revamped interior, long and thin with a smattering of Americana, is a good spot for taking a little more time over a good brew, US-sized cupcake or indulgent icecream shake featuring flavours such as Orio cookies or Cherry Pie. A weekend menu offers a more leisurely approach with big brunches including the Double Double (two hits of various breakfast items) and eggs done various ways with the likes of black pudding and Loch Fyne salmon. + Chilled weekend brunch when the office folk are at home - Awkwardly laid-out venue

Artisan Roast 15–17 Gibson Street, West End (Map 9A: F3, 76) 07449325247, artisanroast.co.uk | £7 (lunch)

No matter how serious you are about coffee, the staff of Artisan Roast are more serious. Their friendly diligence is worth it, as they serve some of the best coffee in Glasgow. No fancy syrups, no 1-litre lattes: just high-quality coffee, all roasted on-site once a week. Food-wise there’s a high-quality and daily-changing selection of soup, sandwiches, brioche and cake. The caramelised onion brioche is perfectly balanced, with the sweetness coming from the onion rather than the bread dough. Also recommended are the huge fruit scones and the salted caramel and date slice. If you’ve had enough caffeine, there’s a wide choice of loose-leaf tea and hot chocolate. All the food is vegetarian and made in-house by the staff from locally sourced ingredients. However, don’t be late if you want options: the food is all prepared daily so when it’s gone, it’s gone. Everything on offer is fresh, delicious, and prepared with real care and knowledge. A delight for even the pickiest coffee-lover. + The black stuff - No sandwiches on Sundays

All That is Coffee Alba 481 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: F2, 66) 0141 237 7902, albacafe. wordpress.com | Closed Sun/Mon | £7 (lunch)

There’s a cosy, homely feel to Alba with an upstairs space not unlike an attic living room with sofas and chairs to enjoy whiling away on wifi or reading vintage comic and cookbooks displayed on the sideboard. What’s more, exclusive to the solo diner is a perfectly pitched bar stool and table with a heightened view of GWR. The food on offer is well above-average café offerings, so don’t be surprised to find all the baking, quiche tartlets, soups and specials all freshly prepared on site by hospitable owners Brendan and Anne, with organic bread supplied from the renowned Tapa bakery. The Italian sausage roll is generously filled with meat and could either be served with salad and coleslaw or rather differently, spicy beans – options which help define the café’s individual approach to food. An old Scottish recipe paradise cake, is sweet and fruity and couples well with the rich and smooth Lucaffe coffee. + Artisan food, cosy surroundings and hospitable service - The table space downstairs may be too small for some

South Block, 60 Osborne Street, City Centre See Arts Venues

4 Avenue G

An Clachan

‘We Enjoy Serving Great Coffee,’ proudly declares the Avenue G website, and their very skilled barista staff certainly do not fail to live up to their billing. Coffee comes in all shades and forms – and for those who do not consider themselves connoisseurs, the staff are on hand to discuss the wide array of options. Better still, each coffee is served with accompanying tasting note, including details of the geographical origin of the beans and what flavours should be expected, ensuring that after a brief visit you will wander back out on to Byres Road feeling like an expert. The food menu is extensive, covering everything from breakfast and light dishes, to altogether more hearty offerings, such as the bowl of chilli served with fresh bread. Saturdays and Sundays are home to ‘The Weekender’ – a humongous platter of breakfast treats that is sure to satisfy even the largest appetite. + Tasting notes with coffee improve customer knowledge - Upstairs seating is a little cramped

Off La Belle Place, West End (Map 9B: E1, 42) 07846 463614, kelvingroveparkcafe.co.uk | £8 (lunch)

Still a little bit of a secret located in the corner of Kelvingrove park, this café has much to recommend it: scenic setting, local and seasonal ingredients, solid cooking, imaginative recipes and great veggie and gluten-free choices. With a name meaning ’the village’ in Gaelic, it’s appropriately full of families and park-goers alike. Daily specials like red pesto, leek and onion sausage rolls and seasonal selections of vegetables in stew, chilli or wraps means regulars don’t get bored, while good kitchen choices – such as pairing chorizo and tomato with a fruity butternut squash in the chorizo wrap – ensure a tasty experience. Gluten-free cardamom and lemon cake is beautifully balanced, while carrot cake is sweet but wholesome. An Clachan also plays host to creative writing workshops and craft activities during the summer months. + Great variety of attentively created lunch dishes - Cakes can be a little too expensive

All Star Brunch Bar 531 Sauchiehall Street, West End (Map 9B: G2, 48) 0141 222 2848 | £8 (lunch)

This Charing Cross café is the latest

[Another] Piece 387 Great Western Road, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

291 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C1, 46) 0141 339 5336, avenue-g.com | £6.25 (set lunch)

Avenue G Speciality Coffee House 321 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: G2, 86) 0141 339 1334, avenue-g.com | £7 (lunch)

4 HITLIST

CAFÉS 4 Avenue G Great coffee, top-quality food and welcoming, knowledgeable service – all the components of a great café, and more. 4 Delizique A West End favourite where dedication to detail and deft delivery are hallmarks that keep diners returning for more. 4 The Glad Café A creative hub for arts and music in the Southside, with a diverse lunch menu and seductively comfortable sofas.

4 Kember & Jones Fresh deli food coupled with homemade bread and great coffee – what more could anyone want?

4 Martha’s Healthy, tasty food done with style in the city centre, plus it is fast yet uncompromisingly good quality for takeaways. 4 McCune Smith Café A cultured newcomer that celebrates the Scottish Enlightenment, Glasgow’s history and the best local suppliers in a bright and airy spot on the East End’s periphery. 4 Siempre Bicycle Café This relaxed and friendly West End café takes its commitment to ethical, nutritious and delicious food seriously. 4 Sonny & Vito’s Great food and deli items bring a touch of the Mediterranean to the West End – especially when the sun is out. 4 The Tearooms at the Butterfly & the Pig Quirky décor and a stuffed-to-bursting cake cabinet make this the perfect spot for an indulgent afternoon tea.

A brand new addition to the West End’s

4 TED HITTHLIS E LIST’S

IN NG & DRINKI EATINGGU IDE 2013/14

SMILE CAFÉ

BSA COFF AWAR EE D 2013/1 S 4

102 QUEEN MARGARET DRIVE | GLASGOW | G20 8NZ TEL: 07528661275 | smilecafe@live.com

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 137

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list.co.uk

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TABLE Talk

RICHARD DUPUPET ON GALLIC GLASGOW I remember the first time I came to Glasgow. I really felt the ‘coup de foudre’ (love at first sight), and that’s why we moved here. I didn’t even check if there were any other French places, discovering later that our cuisine is quite difficult to impose. I didn’t realise as well that it’s tricky to win the heart of the Glaswegian – and people often remind me that French places don’t stay open long here. Well, it’s already two years since we opened and we sell our snails, beef bourguignon, pinot noir wine, and tarte tatin. It’s progressing slowly, it’s true, but this year we opened a French deli and grocery shop in the West End, where there is a new energy for the little independent food shops instead of the chains. The current move to eating fresh, healthy foods and discovering new flavours is a good thing. We have a programme where we receive school children studying French, or sometimes we go to them to talk about the importance of eating properly and they then come to sample our cuisine. We really enjoy this and have had really good feedback about the children’s experience – it’s not all about chips and pizza. We’ve received around 500 kids already, who are really curious and it’s a real pleasure. Similarly, for adults, we created a French food and wine club, with free membership, to discuss wines and test different dishes. After a few voucher deals, which we found a negative experience, we decided to organise entertainment. Every month we have a three-course dinner with a show, and this year we have the pleasure to receive Christine Bovill, an excellent singer who performs her Edith Piaf show – Christine was born in a very little French place called Glasgow. Q Richard Dupupet is co-owner of Le Bistro Beaumartin (see page 154). lebistrobeaumartin.co.uk

138 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Cottonrake (page 146): this relocated bakery now has a few seats for enjoying fantastic breads and bakes

ever-growing coffee scene, Avenue G Speciality Coffee House is a new venture for the team who have seen their Byres Road unit gain a reputation as one of the city’s best cafés. While great coffee is now on offer in both locations, the recently opened Great Western Road spot specialises in this field, offering a basic food menu, such as croissants and light sandwiches, to partner the wide variety of interesting coffees available. There are a number of single origins roasts to choose from, which the informative staff will happily manipulate in all manner of fashions to broaden your coffee knowledge. The back of the shop houses a roaster that, in due course, shall supply carefully selected single-origin beans to both cafés, a move that is sure to please Avenue G’s legion of fans. + Even coffee experts will find something new to try - Food menu is limited

Babu Bombay Street Kitchen 186 West Regent Street, City Centre See Indian

The Balcony Café Upstairs @ The Glasgow Climbing Centre, 534 Paisley Road West, Southside See Arts Venues

The Bay Tree Restaurant 403 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: G2, 81) 0141 334 5898, thebaytreewestend.co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

A café that has served over 50 years from the same site can’t be doing much wrong. As one of the first Arabian restaurants in Scotland the Bay Tree has built a reputation for fresh food and generous servings. The interior makes good use of the small space, being light and airy with bench seating and comfy leather armchairs in both large windows. Originally completely vegan, the menu still has a good selection of vegetarian and vegan choices alongside Mediterranean staples like spiced lamb and marinated chicken. A broad range of starters may include tasty aubergines – lightly fried slices with a sweet texture

topped with a piquant salsa and a warm tortilla to mop up. Main of marinated coal-fired chicken kebab is moist and chunky accompanied by a heap of nicely scented couscous and minty yogurt sauce. The café changes mood throughout the day – trad Scottish fare for breakfast, sandwiches around lunchtime and busy bistro by late afternoon/evening. Perhaps it’s this willingness to be all things to all sorts that has kept it thriving through the years. + Friendly and relaxing environment - Tables in the centre feel the brunt of passing trade

Big Mouth Coffee Bar and Café 167 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 9) 0141 337 7023, bigmouthcoffeecompany.co.uk | £4.95 (set lunch)

Nestled at the jam-packed junction of Byres Road and Dumbarton Road, this coffee-centric café is not what it first appears. A first glance of its chromeplated exterior suggests stripped-back functionality with all the emphasis on the superlative coffee. But Big Mouth is effusively full of personality, with hearty sandwiches and wraps, handpainted murals, and a constant mix of young professionals, students and urban dwellers enjoying the laid-back, welcoming atmosphere. A chalkboard proclaims ‘we don’t stop laughing because we grow old, we grow old because we stop laughing’. Ethically sourced coffee from Matthew Algie is also full of this fresh exuberance, with not a hint of bitterness. Freshly made smoothies are on offer to mitigate an irresistible lemon and raspberry cake, reminiscent of jam pudding with hints of citrus and rich butter icing. A café well worth talking about. + Welcoming surroundings and amazing service - Menu not very seasonal

Biscuit 17 Skirving Street, Southside (Map 8: A5, 21) 0141 632 3466, biscuitcafe.co.uk | £10 (lunch)

Skirving Street in Shawlands is packed

with foodie outlets. There is Buddy’s BBQ & Burgers, Nachos, Beanscene, and the wonderful 1901 Deli all close together. Biscuit sits in the midst of it all but despite the competition it is regularly packed out. One of the reasons may be that the chef is a great baker. No two days on the cake counter are the same. One day the show-stopper might be walnut and banana, the next a lemon chiffon. And there is always a display of homemade brownies and tray bakes. The breakfast and lunch menu combines the usual mix of soups, sandwiches and burgers with more contemporary additions such as pulled pork, homemade nachos, and Stornoway black pudding brunches. The free wifi and deceptively spacious area at the back means it is a good place for freelancers to meet clients or catch up on emails over a light bite or coffee. It is also extremely child-friendly, with an extensive children’s menu and plenty of space. + Extra thick chocolate shake - Limited choice for non-wheat eaters

Black Sheep Bistro 10 Clarendon Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

Bocadillo 569 Sauchiehall Street, West End (Map 9B: F2, 47) 0141 221 0069, bocadillo. co.uk | Closed Sat/Sun | £4.95 (set lunch)

This reliable lunchtime spot serves up chilli, sandwiches and coffee in clean, bright surroundings, making it one of the best options in the area for a quick and competitively priced meal. With lots of salad and sandwich options, the menu is full of solid British and American favourites and even boasts a baked potato topped with haggis, neeps and sauce. Cakes are a particular highlight, with the Maltesers cake a sweeter than sweet treat, and a toffee apple muffin being a dark, dense delight. Bocadillo is under relatively new management but has kept to the solid menu choices and friendly ethos that ensures its popularity. + Quick, friendly service - Menu lacks an imaginative edge

CAFES

In association with

Booly Mardyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 28 Vinicombe Street, West End See Bars & Pubs

Bread Meats Bread 102â&#x20AC;&#x201C;104 St Vincent Street, City Centre See North American

Brooklyn CafĂŠ 21 Minard Road, Southside (Map 8: A4, 16) 0141 632 3427 | ÂŁ12 (lunch) / ÂŁ14 (dinner)

Now in its 85th year of business, the family-owned Brooklyn CafĂŠ is a real Southside institution. The menu covers all three meals: breakfast is a juicy bacon roll or a traditional Scottish fry-up; lunch is a choice of soups, salads and sandwiches; dinner is a huge range of pastas, pizzas and burgers. The coffee is top-notch, and there are milkshakes and smoothies for kids or the non-caffeinated. The new grill menu is always expanding â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the newest additions are chilli ribs, steakhouse pepper ribs and pulled lamb or pork, all smoked in-house. The portions are generous, but the relaxed atmosphere means there plenty of time to rest before youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re ready to tackle a tablet and butterscotch sundae. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a real sense of place, too, with photos of the cafĂŠâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history adorning the walls. The value-for-money menu and reasonable BYOB corkage makes Brooklyn CafĂŠ a great choice for a budget-conscious â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but still delicious â&#x20AC;&#x201C; meal out. + Ice-cream â&#x20AC;&#x201C; authentically Italian-made to a family recipe since 1900 - Limp, watery coleslaw

Brown Sugar 48 Battlefield Road, Southside (Map 8: C6, 26) 0141 237 9457, brownsugardeli. com | Closed Sun | ÂŁ3.50 (set lunch)

A great example of quality and friendliness in local dining, Brown Sugar is a cafĂŠ to make the Southside proud. Co-owners and sisters, Lauren and Lois, show a great attention to detail, clear in the calm dĂŠcor and generously filled sandwiches. For lunch thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a valuefor-money soup and sandwich deal, and a wide choice of gourmet pieces â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Antipasto (focaccia stuffed with salami, prosciutto, mozzarella, tapenade and salad) is flavoursome and filling. The bread is so good that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also sold by the loaf, fresh every morning. As well as high-quality coffee and tea, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a selection of classic cakes and bakes. The orange, almond and yogurt loaf goes perfectly with a vanilla chai tea. The menu changes seasonally so expect a salad of the week and extra outdoor seating in warmer months. Seating space is very limited, so avoid peak lunchtimes if you prefer to linger. + Good value and high-quality ingredients - Closes early

The Burrell CafĂŠ The Burrell Collection, Pollok Country Park, 2060 Pollokshaws Rd, Southside See Arts Venues

The Butterfly and the Pig West 2 Partick Bridge Street, West End See Bars & Pubs

CafĂŠ Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Jaconelli 570 Maryhill Road, West End (Map 9A: H1, off) 0141 946 1124 | ÂŁ6.50 (lunch)

Very little has changed at this venerable cafĂŠ, not since the last refurb some 60-odd years ago, though this is no threadbare caff but a cared-for neighbourhood diner that seems more like a labour of love than a for-profit business. A regular parade of customers slide into the big red booths, marvel at the shelved goodies and listen to the old-

school jukebox, be they locals in for a brew, long-suffering Partick Thistle fans grabbing a big fry-up before the game from the good-value traditional menu (rolls, pies, chips etc), or kids in to enjoy the homemade ice-cream offerings. With an interior that attracts film crews on a regular basis, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a cafĂŠ that should be up there with the nearby Rennie Mackintosh church as a must-see for visitors, or indeed any local whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never enjoyed its charms. + A Glasgow institution to be savoured - . . . but not too often if a healthy diet is your thing

CafĂŠ at GOMA Royal Exchange Square, Merchant City See Arts Venues

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CafĂŠ Hula 321 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: E1, 29) 0141 353 1660, cafehula.co.uk | ÂŁ8 (lunch) / ÂŁ12 (dinner)

Idiosyncratic, undeterred by trends, and certainly unique, CafĂŠ Hula is the sort of place that can create ambivalence in folk. Some people love the chilled vibe, the somewhat scraggy edges, the laid-back staff and lazy window-gazing, whereas for others itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a bit too off the beaten track, both in location (though itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s prime territory opposite the Theatre Royal, just not much else around) and attitude. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to deny for anyone is the good food from a menu that is in no need of the overhaul it hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t had in years, mixing up big brunch options, beefy deli sandwiches, mains such as pasta, Spanish stews and Moroccan casseroles, with good cakes to finish. + One of a kind - Not the kind that everyone goes for

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CafĂŠ JJ 180 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 11) 0141 357 1881, cafejj.co.uk | ÂŁ9 (lunch) / ÂŁ11.95 (set dinner)

A long-standing resident in Partick, Cafe JJ is a warming, welcoming spot for a quick coffee pitstop or something more substantial from their menu that changes through the day. Morning breakfast options and lunchtime soups and sandwiches plus more substantial mains such as pasta, burgers or crepes are available through the day, while late-opening evenings at the weekends see the place go a bit more bistro with a short, changing menu offering the likes of tarts, pies, enchiladas, curry or a hearty casserole. Home-style food, lively staff and reliably good, nicely priced food have kept this place going for three decades and it looks set for many more. + Comforting, homely dining - Easy to miss amid the street bustle

CafĂŠ Lovestruck 751â&#x20AC;&#x201C;753 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: C3, 14) 01413878664, lovestruckcheesecakes.co.uk | Closed Mon | ÂŁ5.95 (set lunch)

The new kid on the block in a row of popular Southside cafĂŠs, Lovestruck is heavy on thrift-chic charm with books stacked on the windowsills, hand-painted tables, and knitted tea cosies. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plenty of choice of teas to go under the cosy, too: green, chai, matcha, wild berry and the cinematically-named Manhattan fog. The small lunch menu changes daily, with a choice of soups and sandwiches including hummus and salsa, ploughmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, and pĂ˘tĂŠ with chutney. Lovestruckâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s speciality is their cheesecakes, baked with Scottish crowdie and British beet sugar on a base of homemade spelt and oat biscuits. Flavours change daily, but the coconut, chocolate, and cherry and cinnamon are recommended. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re good for the The List Eating & Drinking Guide 139

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list.co.uk

GLASGOW

health-conscious, with 40% less fat than regular cheesecake, though the unusual texture won’t appeal to everyone. + Encourages relaxing with a good read - Sandwiches expensive with no side salad, crisps or coleslaw

Café Phoenix 262 Woodlands Road, West End (Map 9A: G3, 87) 0141 339 3020 | £7 (lunch)

With its cosy couches, overflowing bookshelves and cabinet of homemade cakes, Café Phoenix is the perfect spot for hungry bookworms. For early birds, the value-for-money breakfast plate comes with bacon, sausage, egg, potato scone, tomato and toast. Lunch specials change daily, and always include soup, sandwiches and salads. The three-bean salad is nutritious and tangy, while the goat’s cheese, cranberry and rocket ciabatta is sweetly tart. The cakes are a real highlight – most are made on the premises, with scones and croissants fresh-baked every morning. Book launches and reading groups meet regularly, the staff are friendly, and patrons are encouraged to browse through the second-hand book selection (all of which are for sale). Perfect for those who like to linger with a coffee and a paperback. + Friendly, welcoming ambience - Sandwiches could be filled more

Café Pop 657 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: E1, 57) 0141 339 3400 | £5.50 (set lunch)

This cosy café carries 1960s pop art connotations through to pop culture in the 21st century – although, of course, a large close-up of Twiggy still reigns on the wall. It succeeds at being distinctive yet surprisingly charming, with its

TIP/,67 FOR BREAKFAST & BRUNCH • Avenue G Gets the day started with a smile 137 • Café Gandolﬁ Merchant City favourite for a lazy brunch 132 • Cookie Southsiders swear it’s the only way to start the day 133 • Cottonrake Artisan bakers provide a superfresh start 146 • Eat Café Breakfast specialist worth lingering over 141 • North Star Italiantinged café with quality awakeners 143 • Old Salty’s Early risers enjoy brekkie in a cool chippy 152 • Siempre Bicycle Café Healthy start before jumping on the bike, or Subway 144 • Stravaigin Legendary spot for lazy weekend brunches 136

140 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Crolla’s Gelateria: a newcomer to the West End, dishing up delicious ice-cream concoctions

kitchen tucked away up a quaint flight of old wooden stairs and good use of space. The James Gandolfini sandwich is a fitting tribute to the late great actor; it’s substantial, attention-grabbing and packs a mean punch. Full of soft, marshmallowy buffalo mozzarella, sharp emmental and lashings of fresh, peppery pastrami, the thin yet wholesome and soft ciabatta makes sure the fillings are fully experienced. A tabbouleh wrap is amply served in a tortilla, with a great balance of lemony dressing. + Really great ingredients served generously - The lack of toilets might dissuade you from longer visits

Café Wander • 110a West George Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 72) 0141 353 3968, cafewander.com | Closed Sun | £6.75 (set lunch) • 1032 Argyle Street, West End, 0141 572 0232, cafewander.com | Closed Sun | £6.75 (set lunch)

The walls of the quirky basement city centre venue are adorned with available artwork, making its personality evident from the off. Like most cafés, its menu begins in the morning with a wide breakfast range that includes meat from Ramsay of Carluke. A steady stream of lunchtime customers keeps smiling staff on their toes, but it’s easy enough to find a seat if you’re not rushed. Hot and cold products are plentiful – a steak sandwich with wedges providing a hearty option. Burgers, too, are popular, along with fresh soups – the daily lentil is both vegan and gluten-free, while a maple-cured parsnip soup is sweet, sharp and satisfying. Frappés and smoothies are popular and the usual array of hot drinks, including Jenier teas, are best washed down with one of a number of cakes from local bakers. Another branch on Argyle Street, close to the Finnieston foodies’ epicentre is smaller, with less choice but still offers an enjoyable lunch with cheery staff. + Packed menu for a venue this size - Busy queues can disrupt the ambience

Clean Plates Café Maryhill Burgh Halls, 10–24 Gairbraid Avenue, West End See Arts Venues

Coffee, Chocolate and Tea 944 Argyle Street, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

Coia’s Café 473–477 Duke Street, East End See Italian

Cookie 72 Nithsdale Road, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

Cottonrake 497 Great Western Road, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

Cranachan Unit 51, Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 110) 0141 248 6257, cranachancafe.co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

A great location on the top floor of Princes Square and an aspirational Scottish menu give this place promise, which on the whole it delivers. A main of haddock is lightly battered and delicately cooked, with not-too-mushy peas particularly good. Thyme-roasted chicken breast with caramelised bacon is gorgeously presented, with both the bacon and skin of the chicken sticky, smokey and moreish. Haggis balls are full of oats and mushrooms, with a peppery finish, and a whisky sauce is a great touch although perhaps more like a whisky gravy. Cranachan cake is in the form of a soft spongey pudding with layers of raspberry and cream, finished with blueberry and oat dusting. A fair selection of wines is on offer including a dry house Pinot Grigio. + Dining in the rafters of Princes Square - Naming of dishes is not always accurate

This Glasgow-based ice-cream company put down roots on Byres Road a year ago, and has proved that the influx of dessert parlours to Glasgow’s West End was not just a fad. This immaculately styled outlet is not just a place to get gigantic chocolate fudge ice-cream sundaes and waffles, it also does a laudable menu of savouries. A salmon bagel is served on a wooden board with a pot of cream cheese so you can add your favoured amount, and a side salad is nicely gathered with grated beetroot and a subtle dressing. Baked potatoes and toasted focaccia breads are also on the menu. There’s an air of 1950s Americana that really suits this place, while delicious ice-creams and sorbets include flavours such as coconut, cookies and cream, chocolate and even Kinder Surprise. + Great presentation of dishes - Chocolate sundae needs more flavours

Cup • Tea Lounge: 71 Renfield Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 61) 0141 353 2959, cupglasgow.co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner) • Tea Room: 311 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C1, 47) 0141 357 2525, cupglasgow.co.uk | £9 (lunch)

Tea specialist Cup have two venues in town, a smart, modern West End café on bustling Byres Road and a listed City Centre building complete with portraits of Queen Victoria and original wall tiles. Afternoon tea is king here, with the likes of brioche rolls, rosemary focaccia and cakes tiered to delight, plus there is an extensive choice of teas and other beverages from around the world. The central venue opens late on weekends, with added platters served, meaning it’s an alternative to the pub for those who fancy an afterhours tea. [Not recently visited.] + Afternoon tea - Prices can add up as the tiers do

Cushion & Cake Crolla’s Gelateria 221 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C2, 39) 0141 341 0465, crollasgelateria.co.uk | £8 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

35 Old Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9B: C1, 9) 0141 339 4114, cushionandcake.com | Closed Sun/Mon | £6.20 (set lunch)

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A pastel paradise for cake-lovers and crafties alike, this charming cafĂŠ is sweet in the right measure. Hosting craft afternoons, tea-fuelled catch-ups and even hen parties, the walls are covered in fabric designs, pieces of work by local makers and handcrafted decorations. A concise but fulfilling menu boasts several pages of tea to choose from â&#x20AC;&#x201C; thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a strongly spiced chai, iced teas for the summertime, as well as great afternoon tea food such as salmon and cream cheese sandwiches. A sharing Mediterranean platter is recommended, with soft flavoursome prosciutto ham, salami and a light hummus. As you might expect, Cushion and Cake is not short on antique china tea sets, music from the roaring 1920s and, of course, a good selection of cakes baked freshly on the premises. Gluten-free lemon and polenta cake has the immediate sweetness of fresh lemons and an almond finish, while chocolate brownies are truly superlative. + Distinctive ambience and vintage living room atmosphere - Not a good cushion:cake ratio

Deli 1901 11 Skirving Street, Southside See CafĂŠs: Wee Places

4 Delizique 70â&#x20AC;&#x201C;72 Hyndland Street, West End (Map 9A: B2, 5) 0141 339 2000, delizique.com | ÂŁ11.50 (lunch)

This relaxed cafe-bistro is part of a wider neighbourhood family including next doorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cafezique. It pulls off the feat of being stylish yet cosy, with an authentically European feel. Bread and cakes baked on the premises are the star attraction, from dainty brownies and scones to the unusual sourdough pizzas. These come with mozzarella crumbled on top after cooking, a welcome change that lets out the natural flavours. Combine dense sourdough bread with the intense, rich sobresada and lunch is taken care of â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you just might order more though. Daily homemade salads provide lighter options while big-bite sandwiches match healthy appetites. Rustic boards of hot smoked salmon or pork shoulder with apple chutney match the painted brick work and wood panels, worn from the back of relaxing diners. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a place to unwind and spoil yourself: the all-day breakfast is an invitation to kick back and let the day slide by. A windowed front fills the space with light, while the galley kitchen next to the tables provides more entertainment than a TV screen could offer. Subtly addictive. + Bread fresh from the oven - Mains without bread

The Doocot CafĂŠ and Bar The Lighthouse, 11 Mitchell Lane, City Centre See Arts Venues

Eat CafĂŠ 69 Kilmarnock Road, Southside (Map 8: A5, 24) 0141 649 6705, eat-deli.co.uk | ÂŁ5 (set lunch) / ÂŁ15 (dinner)

Southsiders love a good brunch, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to better Eatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all-day breakfasts and choice of cakes. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a wide selection of brunch items, with the Stornoway stack a particular highlight: a toasted muffin topped with black pudding, poached egg, and hollandaise sauce. For lunch, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the light and creamy chestnut mushroom puff pastry, the spicy Cajun chicken burger with crunchy skin-on fries, and a dailychanging choice of hearty soups. For the sweet-toothed, the giant meringues come in pistachio, chocolate or raspberry and are served with fresh cream and fruit. The cappuccino is strong, creamy and beautifully prepared by the friendly

staff. Eat has a cosy, industrial-quirky ambience, with fairy lights glowing across the stone walls and exposed ceiling. Service can be slow at busy times, so ensure that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve set aside plenty of time to enjoy a leisurely brunch â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and do leave room for a cake. + Cake selection â&#x20AC;&#x201C; including mini tarts and pastries for those with smaller appetites - Parking can be difficult

Eat Deli 16 Busby Rd, Clarkston, Southside (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 638 7123, eat-deli.co.uk | ÂŁ11 (lunch)

Clarkstonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s once thriving high street has dwindled as local retailers have been replaced by charity shops and chains. But Eat Deli stands out as a notable exception. It has been a hub for Clarkston foodies since it opened in 2002. What makes it conspicuous, and what has kept customers returning â&#x20AC;&#x201C; is the freshness and quality of the ingredients. Since it obtained an alcohol licence there is a more convivial atmosphere and it has just started a supper club on the last Friday of the month. The menu offers a small range of exciting but unfussy dishes. Opening early with breakfasts and various coffees â&#x20AC;&#x201C; decaf and soya available if required â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it serves paninis, salads, burgers and pastas as well as daily specials throughout the day â&#x20AC;&#x201C; simple-sounding dishes but creatively executed. A linguine pesto is livened by a beautifully zingy goatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cheese, while the vegetarian special is a winning combination of mushrooms with slivers of fiery red chilli, baby potatoes, sunblush tomatoes and a perfectly fried egg. Among the desserts are an indulgent gluten-free chocolate mousse cake and a selection of tarts, including chocolate and salted caramel, pear, lemon and banoffee. + Delightful mushroom special - Tables tightly packed

The Edwardian Kitchen Restaurant Pollok House, Pollok Country Park, 2060 Pollokshaws Road, Southside See Arts Venues

Emirates Arena CafĂŠ 1000 London Road, Southside See Arts Venues

Fifi and Ally Unit 51â&#x20AC;&#x201C;52 Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 110) 0141 229 0386, fifiandally.com | ÂŁ7.65 (set lunch)

A favourite among ladies-who-lunch, Fifi & Ally is a good choice for a special occasion shopping break. The cake selection is impressive, with the red velvet cake a speciality. Its bready texture and cream cheese frosting goes perfectly with the gunpowder mint tea. The unusual tea options also include green sencha and whole rosebuds, as well as the usual suspects. For breakfast, healthier options are scrambled eggs and salmon, organic granola with berry coulis, and porridge with caramelised banana â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or for a treat, try the belgian waffle with bacon and maple syrup. On the lunch menu, the open boards look great and are big enough for two to share: the celtic open board consists of Scottish meats, cheese, chutney and oatcakes, while the moroccan comes with dips, salads and flatbread. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a strong commitment to local sourcing too, with supplier details listed on the back of the menu. + A wide selection of herbal tea and cakes - Only one (communal) bathroom

The Flavour Co 517a Great Western Road, West End See CafĂŠs: Wee Places

4 The Glad CafĂŠ 1006a Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: B4, 15) 0141 636 6119, thegladcafe.co.uk | ÂŁ13 (lunch) / ÂŁ13 (dinner)

This immediately welcoming venue feels like the heart and soul of the Southside arts and music community, and with unconventional menu items, attentive cooking and entertainment galore, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plenty to be Glad about. The cafeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own arts and literature magazine the Glad Rag is equally supportive of local talent, and the recent opening of a thrift store as part of the enterprise makes the relatively small entrance easier to spot on busy Pollokshaws Road. Sardines are strikingly presented and full of flavour, while a soft yet punchy beetroot, lime and ginger cake also impresses. The Glad burger is a firm favourite, with great quality seasonal meat such as spicy Italian sausage, and a side of fiery Cajun sweet potato fries warms the palate. The combination of comfortable sofas, rustic dĂŠcor with an artistic twist and great cooking makes this spot one of the most compelling cafĂŠs this side of the Clyde. + A Tardis-like interior is a pleasant surprise for visitors - Seafood chowder is a bit on the flavourless side

Gusto & Relish 729â&#x20AC;&#x201C;731 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: C3, 12) 0141 4241233, gustoandrelish.com | ÂŁ7.80 (set lunch)

Gusto and Relish have been on the scene for a while now, supplying delicious deli ingredients as well as a flourishing cake counter full of home-baked treats. A recently refurbished interior boasts bright fabrics and furniture for a modern yet homely feel, while the menu has retained a healthy selection of breakfast options including a substantial baked egg royale served in a cute ceramic dish. Sandwiches and toasties are given an extra kick by rich onion marmalades and mango chutneys, and the admirable attention to detail that punctuates great presentation. A goatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cheese bruschetta is topped with frisĂŠe leaves, carrot, wilted spinach and walnuts to great effect. However, a trip to this welcoming Southside spot is not complete without sampling the range of cakes, which includes a sweet yet fiery ginger crunch cake and a moreish Guinness chocolate cake. + Cakes are worth crossing the river for - A few more soft furnishings would tempt longer visits

The Hidden Lane Tearoom 8 Argyle Court, 1103 Argyle Street, West End See Arts Venues

The Hyndland CafĂŠ 96 Clarence Drive, West End (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 334 2719, thehyndlandcafe. com | ÂŁ7 (lunch) / ÂŁ12 (dinner)

A local stalwart successfully serving popular breakfast and lunchtime staples by day, where by late afternoon a different guise is taken on by trying something new. Through a brotherly endeavour where one is a travelled professional chef, a Spanish theme emerges after 4pm where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find on offer a select, but thoughtful range of tapas like wild mushrooms in a herb and garlic butter, tortilla Espanola, meatballs in tomato sauce and cheese and ham croquettes. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inventive to see how a small cafĂŠ space can be used differently â&#x20AC;&#x201C; particularly when the quality of food and the personable, attentive service from the chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brother stands up to the transition. At a time when alternative dining is in demand itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a doorstep option locals should grasp so the concept widens in

its appeal. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inexpensive, casual dining where you can bring your own bottle too. + Delicious, inexpensive and wellpresented Spanish tapas - Music would help add to the evening atmosphere

iKafe 138 Nithsdale Road, Southside (Map 8: B2, 2) 0141 423 8128, ikafe.co.uk | ÂŁ10 (set lunch) / ÂŁ13 (dinner)

Now in its fourteenth year of business, iKafe is situated on the edge of Pollokshieldsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s village triangle of shops and cafĂŠs. For lunch, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a wide selection of sandwiches, jacket potatoes, salads and pasta. Evenings offer better value for money, with fairly priced mains and a wide choice of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;little platesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;: the chicken liver pĂ˘tĂŠ comes with a tangy mango chutney, and the seafood salad of salmon, prawns and anchovies is topped with capers. The lime and spinach chicken is rich and spicy, though itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s served with potatoes when noodles or rice seems more appropriate. The allwhite dĂŠcor and bright lights are great for sunny days, but can feel a little cold for evening meals, where a sense of intimacy would be more welcome. With iKafeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s generous portions and set-price deals, neither your stomach or your wallet will leave empty. + Big, value-for-money portions - Menu prices are confusing

Jelly Hill Cafe/Bar 195 Hyndland Road, West End (Map 9A: A1, 3) 0141 341 0125, jellyhill.com | ÂŁ8 (lunch) / ÂŁ8 (dinner)

A popular destination for breakfast trips and coffee catch-ups, Jelly Hillâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recent changes to their menu have placed further emphasis on its merits as a great lunch

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The List Eating & Drinking Guide 141

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and dinner option. Known locally as a cool hangout for an evening drink, the new addition of a supper club as well as lunchtime deals has given the café a more rounded feel, taking advantage of its snug interior and spacious outdoor seating area to entertain customers all day. Brunch, however, is still undoubtedly the main draw. Locally sourced eggs in the usual variety of styles provide a hearty base for numerous dishes, notably the jelly Benedict, comprising eggs and bacon on toast, topped with melted cheese. Keep an eye out for the introduction of a new loyalty card system that gives regulars great value-for-money discounts. + Local sourcing of produce - Small preparation space prevents more imaginative menu

KG Café Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, Kelvingrove Park, Argyle Street, West End See Arts Venues

4 Kember & Jones Fine Food Emporium 134 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C2, 28) 07717 828930, kemberandjones. co.uk | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Long-standing favourite Kember & Jones’s reputation continues to flourish, its wide and varied menu along with excellent deli offerings and all manners of baking, maintaining its position as a citywide favourite. The Italian sharing platter is a sight to behold, overflowing with delectable treats including homemade pesto, mozzarella and copious

TIP/,67 FOR COFFEE • All that is Coffee Artist’s spot dedicated to Dear Green’s roasts 112 • Artisan Roast Gibson Street’s popular roaster extraordinaire 137 • Avenue G Speciality Coffee Shop Byres Road fave’s new Kelvinbridge sister roastery 137 • Coffee, Chocolate & Tea Small espresso bar that’s big on beans 146 • Laboratorio Espresso Slick cuppas at this smart city centre newcomer 146 • Papercup Coffee Company Brilliant black stuff at this cool café hangout 143 • Riverhill Coffee Bar Wake-up to wonderful coffee in the city centre 147 • Smile Café Diligent brewing at this Botanics paninoteca 147 • Tapa Venerable roasters in Dennistoun and the Southside 144

142 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

McCune Smith Café: an enlightened café with impeccable sourcing and an interest in Glasgow’s history

varieties of meats and vegetables. Whichever mouthwatering dish you opt for, selecting the accompaniment of homemade breads and tapenade is a must. Styles such as sourdough, rye and raisin, wholemeal spelt and pain de champagne are all baked daily by the team; the sheer variety on offer ensuring there is something to suit all tastes. Recently, a selection of staff have undergone barista training and the improvements on the coffee front are evident; roasted in their Maryhill unit and manipulated wonderfully to act as the ideal partner to the espresso cake – or any other cake for that matter. + Homemade bread – the perfect accompaniment to all dishes - Somewhat pricey for a café – but worth it

The Kitchen Window 187 Hyndland Road, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

La Tea Doh 136 Nithsdale Road, Southside See Cafés: Wee Places

Laboratorio Espresso 93 West Nile Street, City Centre See Cafés: Wee Places

ciabattas and salads. + Pizzas – fantastically light and flavoursome - Delivery not available on Mondays

Lola and Livvy’s 254 Argyle Street, City Centre (Map 6: D6, 122) 0141 258 0161, lolaandlivvys.co.uk | £5.20 (set lunch)

A window display full of freshly baked pasta dishes, cakes and cheese topped focaccia breads gives away some of the secrets tucked away in this haven underneath the Hielanman’s Umbrella. As might be expected, lunchtime takeaway compromises most of the passing trade, but this is a great spot for dining in. Touches like a giant tree branch adorned with fairy lights, vintage items and olive décor give this compact and charming café an upmarket feel. Food is highly affordable, with focaccia bread baked inhouse, a range of pasta dishes and toasted sandwiches. Lasagne is well-balanced, with generous portions of lamb and a mature cheddar enhanced by parmesan. Coffee is nicely served in a macchiato, while chocolate brownies and caramel nut tartlets are suitably decadent. A real find for lunch in an often overlooked spot. + Distinctive atmosphere in a central location - Bread a bit dry

Juggling the demand of constant takeaway orders and the attention of sit-in customers is not an easy task, but the staff of this undoubtedly small but sharply turned-out café make light work of the situation, ensuring that any visit is sure to be enjoyable. The pizzas, prepared with homemade dough, are light and come adorned with all manner of fresh ingredients. Particular note should be paid to the house pizza, a vibrant Mediterranean mix of feta cheese, sunblush tomatoes and olives. All pizzas are also available as calzones, while there is the option to build your own mini version to match your own taste – great for dining with children. A variety of wellpriced lunchtime deals see local office workers descending en masse during the day, while those opting for a light bite are able to choose from a wide selection of

142a St Vincent Street, City Centre (Map 6: D4, 80) 0141 248 9771, mymarthas. co.uk | Closed Sun | £7 (lunch)

A bit of an oasis in a City Centre full of greasy takeaways, Martha’s will make you wonder why more cafés don’t emulate this simple ethos of quick, healthy and hearty food, with their seasonally responsive menus, ethically sourced local suppliers and a range of culinary influences from Indonesia to North Africa. The commitment to healthy eating can be seen in featured ‘hero’ ingredients each season. Their flavoursome green smoothie is both refreshing and exciting for the tastebuds, featuring spinach, celery, mint, orange and mango, while a spicy pork ramen soup is in a delicious red chilli broth. Vegetarians/vegans will love the option to add a ‘twist’ to vegetarian salads so carnivores can add meat and fish selectively, and a Thai veggie curry is a delightful fusion of sweet root vegetables, vibrant spices and pulses. If this is the future of takeaway, it’s high time to build a time machine. (See also Kate Clark’s Table Talk on page 128.) + Speedy, healthy food that will leave you feeling energised - Meat in soup a tad over-stewed

4 McCune Smith Café

The Little Café 1361 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 4) 0141 337 2068, thelittlecafe.co.uk | £5 (set lunch) / £11 (dinner)

4 Martha’s

LUV Café 1121 Govan Road, Southside (Map 9B: A1, off) 0141 445 0200, luvcafe.co.uk | Closed Sat/Sun | £6 (lunch)

This much-needed enterprise has settled into a fitting niche of bistrostyled café; it’s a well-loved venture that’s a sign of the rejuvenated Govan neighbourhood, and any profit goes back into the community. With the emphasis on affordable food and warm atmosphere, LUV café is full of wooden hand-carved tables and decorations commissioned by local artists, with the park just outside. Breakfast offers scrambled eggs, bacon, beans and toast, while lunch options include cheese-topped Tasca breads stuffed with balsamic vegetables and soft mozzarella. This self-proclaimed hidden gem of a café is like one big local living room, and certainly a labour of love. + Distinctive, attractive environment - No fried or poached eggs for breakfast, just scrambled

3–5 Duke Street, East End (Map 7: D1, off) 0141 548 1114, mccunesmith.co.uk | Closed Sun | £8 (lunch)

The sign looks like its for a legal practice, but it represents something way more interesting. The café beneath is named after Dr James McCune Smith, the black intellectual and abolitionist who was the first African American to hold a medical degree (from Glasgow). He was both a product of and a force in the Scottish Enlightenment – something café owner Dan Taylor is incredibly passionate about (you can read books inside). Sandwiches are named after figureheads of the movement, like David Hume (smoked roast salmon with cream cheese on a fennel bagel) or Lord Kames (jerk chicken and homemade pineapple salsa on sourdough). Flavours are vibrant, breads and sauces are as fresh as you like, and sourced locally (Seb & Milli’s Bakery, Dear Green coffee, Glasgow Chilli Guy). Two soups per day feature

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both veggie and gluten-free. Sweet stuffs range from unashamedly rugged slabs of banana-pecan bread through to scones with jam that are made by a retired couple in the Southside. The ethos is proper; the atmosphere relaxed. With the East End’s regeneration well underway, and the Tennent’s brewery along the road looking cooler than it ever has, this place rightfully sits at the beginning of what could be a Duke Street reborn. + A refreshing new venue in a neglected stretch of town - No hot food . . . yet

Moyra Jane’s 20 Kildrostan Street, Southside (Map 8: B2, 5) 0141 423 5628 | £9 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Moyra Jayne’s café has been a feature of Pollokshields for years. But it is only in recent times that new owners have opened it up as a bistro in the evenings. You won’t find blaring loud music, a range of trendy barbecue ribs and craft beers. But you will find a cheerfully friendly atmosphere, some 6 Music type sounds and relaxing low lighting. The menu barely changes with the seasons but there are daily specials on the board. Scottish fish features – such as salmon, Cullen skink and a scallop shell filled with Arbroath smokie pieces in a hollandaise sauce. The goat’s cheese with poached pear starter is a real winner, livened by a delicious chutney. And the mains feature a range of really creative comfort foods, such as a five-bean chilli and a zingy Thai chicken curry. And of course the cakes, meringues and puds are among the many reasons why Moyra Jayne’s is such a hit café through the day. It doesn’t go in for faddy events and social media promotions, but this unpretentious eatery is getting on with doing things just right. + Goat’s cheese and poached pear with divine chutney - Giant 1990s-style menu cards

Naked Soup 6 Kersland Street, West End (Map 9A: D1, 56) 0141 334 8999, nakedsoup.com | £5.40 (set lunch)

Naked Soup is one of just a handful of West End cafés that manages to attract both local families and huge numbers of students in equal measure, ensuring that there is always a bustling atmosphere. Its popularity can, in fact, prove to be an irritation, as tables can be hard to come by during the busy lunchtime rush. It is easy to see why the café has built up such a varied customer base in the nine years since it was opened by proprietor Michael Ferguson, with great all-day breakfasts, appetising homemade soups and a great value set-lunch deal, priced at £5.40. Pick of the soups is undoubtedly the lacto-free, gluten-free and veganfriendly lentil, sweet potato and coconut, which is a regular on the menu, while those with a sweeter tooth may opt for the mouthwatering stack of pancakes garnished with maple syrup. + Lentil, sweet potato and coconut soup alone is worth the visit - Sharing tables with other customers when busy

Nardini’s 215 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C2, 38) 0141 339 2221, nardinis.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

For anyone who has ever been to Nardini’s impressive Largs ice-cream parlour and diner (surely half or more of Glasgow’s residents), then their Byres Road café is a big draw. Although on a much smaller scale, it has plenty to please – mainly in the form of ice-cream, ranging from grab-and-go cones (often the best option when the seats quickly fill

up) to giant sundaes you need a whole family to help eat. Savouries get a minor look in with a range of sandwiches, but those who come tend to come for one thing -- and that’s all most need given the quality of Nardini’s famed gelato. + Ice-cream heaven - Ice-cream overload

No Way Back 38 Nithsdale Road, Southside (Map 8: C2, 8) 0141 423 6506 | £7 (lunch)

Another fine example of the way Glasgow is finding its café groove this year. Stonking hot soups, internationally inspired flavours and a regularly updated range of salads, sandwiches and tacos. There’s a commitment to small, local producers and making things in-house – coffee is supplied by Dear Green coffee roasters and instead of dull old ketchup every table is fitted with a fine bottle of Too Far Gone chipotle hot sauce. Not everything runs smoothly and cakes might run out from time to time, but it has terrific style – the walls are covered in original art and entertaining artefacts and one of the cake stands is made from 12-inch and seven-inch vinyls. Genius. Nithsdale Road is just getting better and better. + Vinyl cake stand - Operational hiccups

North Star 108 Queen Margaret Drive, West End (Map 9A: D1, off) 0141 946 5365 | £8 (lunch)

Since 1999, the name and reputation of cosy, little North Star remains robust among the local community it serves. Accenting the traditional daytime café menu, current co-owner and chef Maurizio delivers a refreshingly grounded and understated Italian food philosophy where a sandwich with chicken will always be fresh and panfried and the chorizo will be of the fresh sausage variety and not cured. Underlining the menu are two daily changing specials that really are, quite special. Featuring modestly priced dishes like red mullet with sautéed courgettes, seafood risotto and tagliarini with goat’s cheese, cherry tomatoes and basil; quality overrides choice here as it’s hard to find such an authentically simple, Italian food offering elsewhere and within small café surroundings. Trying their finely perfected pastries and cakes (many of which are gluten-free) is also a must. + Modestly priced authentic Italian daily specials made fresh to order - It may be too compact for some

No 1 Chocolate Factory 63 St Georges Road, West End (Map 9B: G1, 45) 01413536017, 1chocolatefactory. com | £7.50 (lunch)

Sip on a molten lake of chocolate, tuck into sharing platters or bring the kids along to learn about how it’s made; this café is a world away from factory settings. Several years ago, chocolatemaking hobbyist Chris Davie hit on the idea of chocolate workshops for kids – two years later, No 1 is still following a successful formula. The menu of hot chocolate is kept simple, with a luxury version best sampled in gooey spoonfuls, and a classic hot chocolate with syrups such as coconut and lemon to taste. Sharing platters, sandwiches and hot dogs are also on offer. Continental chocolatier clichés are avoided, with lime-greens, reds and greys taking over the upholstery in a style reminiscent of a sophisticated soft play area, and adults will appreciate the soft window seats. + Unbeatable hot chocolate - Sharing platter would benefit from fresh seafood

Old Salty’s 1126 Argyle Street, West End See Fish

Once Upon a Tart 45 King Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B3, 40) 0141 552 0305, onceuponatart. co.uk | £8 (lunch)

When Alice fell through the looking glass, this is surely where she landed. With its kitschy décor of cuckoo clocks, fairy lights and mismatched chairs, Once Upon a Tart is unashamedly cute. Luckily, it’s not all style over substance: the home-made, daily-changing cakes are beautifully presented under glass domes and are a treat for the palate as well as the eye. If the Black Forest gâteau or lemon and blueberry cake are on offer, snap them up. Tea purists may turn up their noses at the tea served in a cup with the teabag already removed, rather than in a teapot. As well as two daily soups, there’s a sandwich selection huge enough to stress out the indecisive diner -- the brie, cranberry and grape ciabatta, Welsh rarebit on crusty bread, and tuna melt ciabatta are recommended. + Excellent cakes - Laid-back staff

Papercup Coffee Company 603 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: E1, 58) papercupcoffeecompany. bigcartel.com | £8 (lunch)

With its arty, stripped back décor and a coffee menu laden with technical terms, it would be easy to conclude that Papercup is a pretentious hangout for caffeine gurus. In fact, they just really know their coffee, and refreshingly, the welcoming staff go out of their way in order to impart some of their vast barista knowledge to customers. The aeropress comes recommended, an alternative take on a cafetiere, while the Papercup Coffee Club caters for those who fall for any of the blends on offer – all roasted on-site – allowing customers to take beans home for their own use. A recent development has been the introduction of a food menu, the quality of which is surprisingly high considering the limitations imposed by a tiny preparation area. Specials, such as the fresh and zesty poached salmon sandwich, are altered weekly, and act as a great supporting act to whichever caffeine concoction takes your fancy. + Staff will broaden your coffee horizons - No card facilities - cash payments only

Piece 1056 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 33) 0141 221 7975, laucknerandmoore.com | £6.95 (set lunch)

If you find yourself in Finnieston around lunchtime you are almost certain to see a scrum developing outside the sandwich

haven that is Piece, as what feels like half of the local population descend in order to grab their midday sandwich. Bestknown is the pastrami special, featuring thick slices of pastrami, Swiss cheese, gherkins, coleslaw and sweet chilli mayo. The Ole sandwich with roast chicken, chorizo, manchego and chunky salsa is also a hit, particularly when followed with sweet delight from the extensive cake selection – all of which is crafted in their nearby bakery. A handful of seats are available, and the welcoming and highly organised staff ensure that the dining experience of those opting to sit-in is not affected by the steady flow of takeaway customers. Quite simply, if you are looking for a top-notch lunchtime bite in the West End, Piece is the place to be. + Sandwiches are up there with the very best - Home deliveries require a £20 minimum spend

Plum Tree 6 Wilson Street, Merchant City, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 25) 0141 552 6980, theplumtree.uk.com | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

A fortuitous location opposite Merchant Square and walls stacked with craft beers, preserves and appetising cooking ingredients suggests a plummy atmosphere, but this café is that rare mix of relaxed, familiar service with upmarket food and setting. Vinyl records are spun from a turntable open to all budding DJ guests, who can bring their own records. A toastie is stuffed with thick slices of cured ham and a mellow cheddar, accompanied by a thick and flavoursome butternut squash soup. Just a few freshly baked cakes are on offer, but a coconut and lemon sponge is tangy, moist and light in the right measure. For those wanting a large lunch, the burger is a good offering, with tomatoes, jalapeños and a touch of garnish. A relaxed deli with personality. + Laid back atmosphere - Burger a bit dry

Pudding Lane Café 1109 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: A4, 17) 0141 328 7074 | Closed Mon | £6.50 (lunch)

For tea aficionados, it’s worth a trip south just for Pudding Lane. Their wide range of loose-leaf teas are served in pots adorned with hand-sewn tea cosies complete with pompoms. As well as the usual green, white, mint and fruit teas, there’s the Teddy Bear’s Picnic (strong and fruity) and the Almond Cherry Rooibos (tastes like a Bakewell tart). Sandwiches are generously filled – the New Yorker with pastrami, gherkins, Gruyère and mustard on sourdough is tangy and delicious. New additions to the

An independent cafe in the heart of the City Centre. Wander in for a tasty breakfast, a leisurely lunch or a coffee and cake. 110 WEST GEORGE STREET • GLASGOW • G2 1Q • 0141 353 3968 WWW.CAFEWANDER.COM • @CAFEWANDER

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menu include a daily selection of pies, made in-house and served in traditional blue and white enamel pie dishes. For the truly hungry, try the 4-Pudding Special – black, white, haggis and fruit puddings on spelt sourdough with mushrooms and tomatoes. There’s a friendly community vibe, with the space let out free to local musicians, drama and music acts performing regularly, and Southside Fringe events throughout May. + A wide selection of loose leaf teas – not a teabag in sight - No outdoor seating

appearance in an alluring range of cakes and Scottish ice-cream, while an ample selection of Williams Bros bottles and draft are behind the bar. Furnishings might be in need of a little love, but otherwise it’s hard to not feel affectionate about this quirky and distinctive venue, which swings deftly between daytime family café and happening night spot. + Always something interesting happening here - Can be too packed to eat in the evenings 24 Gordon Street, City Centre See Cafés: Wee Places

chairs and tables is a relaxing retreat from the bustle of Byres Road, serving a range of waffles, scones, Portuguese vanilla cakes, and multi-flavoured muffins. The eating area has an air of contented calm with many slogging away on laptops or chatting over fine coffee. The speciality London Fog is an Earl Grey tea with steamed milk and vanilla syrup, while a turkey and Swiss bagel served with coleslaw and Mexican tortilla chips, is large and soft with enough filling to satisfy a hungry luncher. An outdoor seating area also offers a chance to bask in any available sunshine. + Good for breakfast - Tables for two only

Riverside Café

4 Sonny & Vito’s

Riverside Museum, 100 Pointhouse Place, West End See Arts Venues

52 Park Road, West End (Map 9A: F2, 79) 0141 357 0640 | £5 (soup/sandwich) (set lunch)

Riverhill Coffee Bar Rhubarb 122–124 Nithsdale Road, Pollokshields, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

The Rio Café 27 Hyndland Street, West End (Map 9A: A3, 7) 0141 334 9909 | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Filled with live music, cabaret, spoken word and open-mic nights, this retrostyled bar and café is a well-loved local lynchpin between the West End and Partick, and is a downright splendid place to while away the hours. Substantial, tasty meals such as lasagne and fish and chips have a delicious familiarity to them, while being compromised of tasty, seasonal ingredients, and a halloumi and red pepper salad is just as filling. Flaky, moreish Portuguese nata make a welcome

TIP/,67 FOR TEA & CAKES • Biscuit Big on cakes and big on cuppas at this Southside fave 138 • Coffee, Chocolate and Tea Over 40 teas accompany homemade cakes and choccies 146 • Cup Tea Room / Tea Lounge Specialists in the City Centre and West End 140 • Cushion & Cake Retro brews galore at this charming tearoom 140 • The Hidden Lane Tearoom A secretive spot for wow-factor afternoon tea 114 • La Tea Doh Enduring Southside café-deli still delights 146 • Pudding Lane Café Cute cosies cover copious teas on the Southside 143 • The Tearooms at The Butterﬂy and the Pig Blending vintage chic with quality cakes and tea 144 • The Willow Tea Rooms Mackintosh-inspired teatime treats in the City 114

144 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Roast 1299 Argyle Street, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

Roots and Fruits 455–457 Great Western Road, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

St Mungo Museum Café 2 Castle Street, East End See Arts Venues

St Louis Café Bar 734 Dumbarton Road, West End See North American

4 Siempre Bicycle Café 162 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 12) 0141 334 2385, siemprebicyclecafe.com | £10 (lunch)

Siempre’s philosophy of ‘independent, passionate and creative’ shines through every aspect of this welcoming café and bike shop. The teas, coffees and fruit juices are all organic and ethically sourced, with no compromise – you won’t find any Coca-Cola or Nestlé products. As much as possible is made in-house, including the hummus, mackerel pâté and cakes. The sandwiches are generous with well-balanced flavours: the Crayfish Po’boy with spicy Creole mayo, and the Vietnamese with roast chicken bahn mi, pickled carrots and radish are highly recommended. The hot chocolate with cinnamon and cardamom, made from hand-rolled, 73% cocoa chocolate, is creamy and not too sweet. Cyclists are welcome, with space for bike parking inside and outside, and much of the menu is geared towards them, such as the Energiser sandwich with peanut butter, honey and sliced banana, and the vegan Uber bars of raw dried fruits, nuts and seeds with coconut oil and dark chocolate. From eggy breakfasts to bright salads to sharing platters, everything is nutritious, delicious and prepared with real care. + Genuine commitment to local, ethical sourcing - Not enough comfy seating

Smile Café 102 Queen Margaret Drive, West End See Cafés: Wee Places

S’mug 167 Great George Street, West End (Map 9A: C1, 43) 0141 334 6671 | £6.55 (set lunch)

Since fewer outlets are opening before 10am these days it’s good to see a café that appreciates the joy of a good breakfast. Opening it’s doors at 7.30am on weekdays S’mug enjoys a brisk trade from students and workers storing up on bacon bagels, rolls and croissants before a busy day. The L-shaped room with a long leather bench along one side and metal

From its perfectly positioned outdoor tables that maximise any available sunshine long into the evening, to the large oak table that sees customers sit side by side, and its well-stocked deli with all manner of Italian and Spanish products, Sonny & Vito’s exudes an overwhelmingly Mediterranean feel. Lunchtimes are jam-packed with diners enjoying light bites such as the warm chorizo and red onion sandwich or the daily soup offering, served with a chunk of organic bread. Whatever your selection, aim to save a space for a slab of the moist homemade carrot cake; the highlight among a wide array of freshly prepared baking. The introduction of an alcohol licence last summer has added another dimension to this well-established café, first opened in 2007, with a new flow of customers arriving in the evening to kick back with a glass of the Sicilian house wine and enjoy Kelvinbridge’s own slice of continental Europe. + Outdoor seating located in a wonderful sun-trap - Communal seating arrangement is not to everyone’s taste

Tapa Bakehouse 21 Whitehill Street, Dennistoun, East End (Map 7: D1, off) 0141 554 9981, tapabakehouse.com | £6.95 (set lunch) / £8 (dinner)

It’s the smell as you walk through the door that gets you. Tapa’s café is effectively the front room of their organic bakery, which is in full view of diners, and makes a visit to this Dennistoun favourite a delightful experience on the nose as well as the taste buds. There’s been a change of ownership this year, but apart from a sprucing up of the décor, it’s unchanged. All veggie (and lots of vegan) food sees simple but big tasting sandwiches – think pesto, peppers, tomatoes and hummus – alongside a soup of the day, and cracking pine nut and lentil sausage rolls that have that reassuringly flaky and misshapen handmade quality. Daily specials look to North Africa and further east, and the quality of ingredients always leaves you feeling full but not stuffed. Home-baked cakes change daily, flanked by everpresent croissants and pain au raisins. And while the East End of Glasgow isn’t quite hot enough to grow coffee, Tapa do roast their own beans. + The only certified organic bakery in town - Not that many seats

Tapa Coffeehouse 721 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: C3, 11) 0141 423 9494, tapabakehouse. com | £7.85 (set lunch)

Tapa’s burgeoning reputation is founded on the quality of its two key products; coffee and bread. As well as underpinning the majority of dishes on offer at the

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps and links, go to

food.list.co.uk Coffeehouse, both are available at a wide variety of other cafés and delis across the city. Freshly baked bread comes in varieties as diverse as spelt and quinoa, pane Italiano and bartard, and is served as an accompaniment to the soup, which alters daily, or with the mixed platters, which ooze fresh and vibrant ingredients. The coffee also comes highly recommended. Roasted in the lower level of the café – which acts as an overspill seating area during the frenzied weekend breakfast rush – their single origin beans attract customers from all across the city. Keen to show their baking skills are not solely restricted to bread, there is a wide offering available to those with a sweet tooth, including a number of mouthwatering gluten-free treats. + Bread and coffee are among the best the city has to offer - Weekends can be a little hectic

Tchai-Ovna House of Tea 42 Otago Lane, West End (Map 9A: F2, 73) 0141 357 4524, tchaiovna.com | £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

It’s fun watching older people crossing the threshold of this eccentric little bolthole, a bemused smile is sure to appear as they flashback to some bohemian hippy flat circa 1967. Ceramic Turkish lamps, printed drapes, mismatched furniture and hessian screens conjure the air of a flower-power love nest, complete with cool jazz and scatter cushions. TchaiOvna moves to its own beat, taking its lead from Czechoslovakian cafés which specialise in global teas. China, Japan, Vietnam, Nepal and many more are represented in its hefty menu, including a spirited Chinese dragon eye – light and refreshing with a breezy lemony lilt. In the shadow of the main attraction, a vegetarian food menu is small but interesting. Snack-sized bites like dolmades, baba ganoush and sandwiches set the scene for mains like chipotle chilli – a feisty mix of smoky coconut, roasted veg, beans and sweetcorn, served with rustic pitta. But don’t expect table service – grab a menu on your way in (to the right of the door) then approach the kitchen with your order. + A tea jennie’s paradise - Be warned – nothing moves fast here

The Tea Room at the Botanics Botanic Gardens, 730 Great Western Road, West End See Arts Venues

4 The Tearooms @ The Butterfly and the Pig 151 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: D2, 43) 0141 243 2459, thebutterflyandthepig. com/thetearooms | £8.75 (set lunch)

If vintage chic is your choice for a cuppa, look no further than the Butterfly and the Pig’s Tearooms. As well as church pews, mismatched flowery china on piles of doilies, and old films showing on the TV, they also offer some of the best cake in Glasgow. Breakfasts are of the traditional variety, including kippers with poached egg and tomato on toast. For lunch there’s a big sandwich selection, as well as salads, soup, and a highly recommended warm goat’s cheese on walnut toast with

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a rhubarb, plum and apple chutney. Do make sure to leave room for a generous wedge of thickly iced cake – served from a vintage glass cake cabinet, of course. Particularly popular is the ‘high tea’ from 5–8pm, which includes a main meal, sides, cake, and plenty of tea. With its unique décor and delicious food, this is truly a teashop to savour. + Quirky décor and welcoming atmosphere - Not wheelchair accessible

Tempo Tea Bar 83 Queen Street, City Centre See Cafés: Wee Places

Tibo 443 Duke Street, Dennistoun, East End See Bistros & Brasseries

has had a serious shake-up. Not only has the branding been super-charged but it’s become the Tribeca Group with another branch open on the Southside in Giffnock and one planned for summer 2014 on Ingram Street in the Merchant City. The original is still dripping with Americana in décor and food with a focus still on big US-style breakfasts and burgers, with an evening menu offering the likes of small plates and a build-your-own-burger option – which could be the one to take as the daytime burger in generic seeded bun feels a bit lowly in these gourmet times. With chips whose lack of crispness isn’t improved by being submerged in a metal bucket, there’s a sense of style over substance from the new brand. + Compact and cosy café - The wrong seat can mean being bumped regularly

Tinderbox • 189 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C2, 29) 0141 339 3108 | £7 (lunch) / £7 (dinner) • 118 Ingram Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 11) 0141 552 6907 | £7 (lunch) / £7 (dinner) • Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 110) 0141 221 5557 | £9 (lunch) / £9 (dinner)

Hard to miss, with its large windows and metallic signage, the Byres Road branch of Tinderbox has been plying its brand of metro-chic coffee house style for over 15 years now – and it’s still the business. Aside from a set of thin new booths along the back wall, the interiors haven’t changed much. A line of high stools along one window gives a view of the bustle outside while the back area sports a two-tiered floor space with varied table and booth arrangements inducing a relaxing intimate feel. Food choices have been revamped of late and the large counter displays a wide array of externally supplied (mainly locally produced) selections. New arrivals include bento boxes, sushi and French toast sandwiches alongside wellstuffed wraps, salad boxes, waffles and bagels. As always, the cake selection is bountiful with lots of quirky flavours that blend nicely with a fine roasted coffee. Constantly busy, Tinderbox buzzes along to a chic indie soundtrack day and night with that ineffable cool only achieved through confidence and experience. + Groovy atmosphere all hours of the day - Service occasionally distracted

Tramway Café Bar 25 Albert Drive, Southside See Arts Venues

Trans-Europe Café 25 Parnie Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 41) 0141 552 7999, transeuropecafe. co.uk | £8 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Soon to celebrate ten years, but feeling every bit like a much more venerable Glasgow café, Trans-Europe café offers an appealingly quirky, Euro-tinged vibe, with a heavy travel theme (bus seats, map décor, sandwiches named after continental cities) and a good line in sustenance. On offer from the semi-open kitchen are breakfast and brunch options and lunches, mainly sandwich-based options including burgers and steak, although there are salads too, which tend to offer the sandwich fillings without the bread and with extra greenery. + Unique stylings - Getting a bit scraggy at the edges

Tribeca 102 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 18) 0141 576 0122, tribecacafe. com | £10 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Having come under new management in 2013, this popular NY-themed café

CAFES: THE WEE PLACES One of the guide’s most diverse sections, Wee Places brings together a motley mix of small venues (defined by having from zero seats up to about a dozen) whatever their offerings. Included are gourmet sandwich carryouts, delectable delis, static vans and enticing espresso bars. Reviewers: Kat Borrowdale, Kirsty Logan, Malcolm McGonigle, Lewis Renton, Kevin Scott

[Another] Piece Via Italia 115 Union Street, City Centre See Italian

The Wee Guy’s 51 Cochrane Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B1, 4) 0141 552 5338, guysrestaurant. co.uk | £8 (lunch)

Owner of Guy’s Restaurant on Candleriggs, Guy Cowan has drawn on his many years catering for movie stars for his enticing café just off George Square. Classic film posters and location photos from Glasgow-shot movies, including World War Z (filmed right outside the door), adorn the bright walls and, coupled with the outlook across to the City Chambers, make the place much more hip NY deli than Glasgow tearoom. It’s geared towards the many worker bees that buzz about the area during the week with sandwiches and salad bar to go. But it’s worth settling down for a full breakfast, heartier daily special or messily enjoyable steak baguette at one of the big wooden tables or window stools to soak up the city bustle. Homemade cakes and bakes, interesting soups and good coffee add to the enticement. + Easy to imagine you’re world’s away from Glesga - Gets busy at peak periods

387 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: G2, 82) 0141 334 9697, laucknerandmoore.com | Closed Sat/ Sun | £7 (lunch)

Although it looks small, the kitchen in the back of this shop is the powerhouse of the Lauckner and Moore empire. Fresh food is prepared here every day to supply corporate clients and other Piece outlets in Finnieston and Govan. Luckily it serves the takeaway counter too. As expected the accent is on quality ingredients and sophisticated, tasty combinations. Meat, chicken, fish and vegetarian options are available with a choice of breads. Signature pastrami special has thin peppery meat, sweet chilli mayo and swiss cheese in a mix of fresh crunchy homemade coleslaw that signals quality on every bite. The proprietors also blend and roast their own coffee, which is smooth and dark with chocolatey notes – available to take home from all of their outlets. An impressive operation. + Tasty food, well prepared - Only room for one table

Il Cappuccino 491 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: F2, 65) 0141 337 3001 | £6 (lunch)

Affectionately known as ‘Il Cap’ by regulars, this bustling sandwich shop has been attracting customers in their droves since opening in 1989. The deli is jam-packed with potential sandwich ingredients, allowing customers to assemble their own ideal lunchtime bite. Alternatively, set sandwiches can be ordered from the menu; favourites include the Italian Stallion, renowned as their signature product, featuring slices of tender chicken, bacon, tomato lettuce and dollops of marie rose sauce. There is also a soup of the day on offer, as well as a selection of pastries and muffins, perfect when washed down with a slurp of the surprisingly high-quality takeaway coffee. For great value for money, opt for the meal deal; a sandwich, bag of crisps and a can of juice for only £4.20. + Endless amount of mouthwatering sandwich options - Takeaway only

Cherry and Heather Fine Foods 7 North Gower Street, Southside (Map 8: C1, off) 0141 427 0272, cherryandheather. co.uk | Closed Sat/Sun | £8 (lunch)

Cherry and Heather have an understandably great reputation and are still providing a tempting and unusual take on café culture. Asian noodle dishes, gluten-free baking, deli pasta dishes and sandwiches all feature on a diverse menu, while the cosy four-table dining space manages to feel spacious and bright. Bitesize cakes are delectable and small enough to go guilt-free – cherry brownies are dense, sticky and with a sugary outer layer, and a delicious custard berry slice is stuffed with sharp fruit and topped with berry-topped clotted cream. A laksa alam chicken noodle dish is a glorious fusion of red chillis, sundried tomatoes and coconut. There’s a great selection of teas, too. A splendid spot in a

Where the Monkey Sleeps 182 West Regent Street, City Centre (Map 6: C3, 47) 0141 226 3406, monkeysleeps.com | Closed Sat/Sun | £7 (lunch)

With non-stop rock on the stereo and album covers papering the walls, this basement café’s love for music is clear. Breakfast is hangover-friendly, with filled rolls, eggs and french toast. For lunch there’s a spicy, meaty selection of sandwiches, toasties and bagels, all delightfully named. Witchfynder comes with chorizo, smoked cheese, spring onion and chilli mayo; and Thar She Blows features haggis, red onion marmalade and mature cheddar. Takeaway business is mostly from nearby offices and lunchtimes can be hectic, but there’s a lovely sense of community and staff get to know regulars, remembering their name and sandwich order. There’s even a sandwich named after a regular customer: The Man from Iran, a spicy mix of roast chicken, smoked cheese, chargrilled peppers, and hot sauce. Its Glasgow School of Art roots are honoured with free, no-commission gallery space for local artists. + Great for rock fans - Could be warmer inside when cold outside

The Willow Tea Rooms • 97 Buchanan Street, City Centre • 217 Sauchiehall Street See Arts Venues

Roast (page 147): small in stature but with mighty, meaty sandwiches The List Eating & Drinking Guide 145

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neighbourhood scarce on cafés, whether for takeaway, relaxing or working. + Flavoursome noodle soups - Noodles could be more substantial

Coffee, Chocolate and Tea 944 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: E3, 39) 0141 204 3161, coffeechocolateandtea.com | Closed Sun | £7 (lunch)

The exposed sandstone and brick feature walls combined with the presence of a stunning red coffee roaster give CC&T a very artistic feel. Couple these with the various photography exhibitions often showcased along the café wall and you begin to understand the essence of this place, where creativity and aesthetic excellence are exemplified in abundance. Every Monday, the staff put their striking machinery to good use, roasting their house blend as well as guest varieties, which alter on a weekly basis. For tealovers, one wall displays 40 different test tubes giving customers the opportunity to smell and view the astounding variety of blends on offer. The back section of the café is designated to the creation of sweet delights in the form of handcrafted chocolates and cakes, including a selection of gluten-free pastries, while a small number of lunch dishes are available, most notably their renowned Cullen skink. + Simply exceptional coffee - Only a dozen perches

4 Cottonrake 497 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: F2, 64) 07910 282040, cottonrake. com | £7 (lunch)

Despite a growing reputation as a great lunchtime hang-out, there is no question that Cottonrake is a bakery at heart. From the minute the doors open, the bakery team produce all sorts of patisserie delights to keep the streaming queue of customers satisfied. Like a true working bakery, the breakfast pastries and croissants hit the shelves first, followed by savoury tarts and rolls which appear from mid-morning. The succulent pork shoulder and black pudding sausage roll most certainly hits the spot, while the artistically presented fresh and zesty bruschetta with olive tapenade, feta cheese and rocket is perfect as a light bite. Absolutely everything on offer is baked on-site, including the variety of sourdough and spelt loaves that, as well as forming the base for the sandwich offering, are available to take away. Without a doubt a newcomer to the West End scene that is sure to be a favourite for years to come. (See also Stefan Spicknell’s Table Talk on page 148.) + Pastries are heavenly - Seating arrangement a little cramped

Crêpe à Croissant 1 Ashley Street, West End (Map 9B: G1, 44) 07720 330 471, crepe.org.uk | Closed Sun | £8 (lunch)

Crêpe à Croissant has two cafés around the city (183 Hope Street and 396 Byres Road), but their spiritual home is the static van just off Woodlands Road that has braved the elements for over two decades. They do fill normal sandwiches, baguettes, wraps, and of course croissants, but it’s the crêpes – made fresh on specially imported pans and by well-trained staff – which top the bill. Savoury ‘crêpes for carnivores’ include such alliterative delights as radical roast (roast beef, mustard and cheese), tantalizing tikka and perfect pesto (chicken pesto with emmental) or, for veggies, there is the fabulous feta or ravishing ratatouille. The sweet crêpes are pure danger and include banana chocolate dream – smeared with nutella, nuts and cream – or Cupid’s cup, filled 146 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

The Wee Guy’s (page 145): another tempting offering from Guy Cowan joining his Merchant City restaurant

with After Eights, cream, crème de menthe and flaked almonds. + Crêpe specialists - Brand could do with a bit of revitalising

Deli 1901 11 Skirving Street, Southside (Map 8: A5, 20) 0141 632 1630, deli1901.co.uk | £6

A reliable deli that has managed to hold its own as stiff competition springs up around it. Specialising in quality delicatessen foods whether made in house or carefully sourced from around the globe, which can be taken home (or even ordered for their delivery service), enjoyed in-house in their spacious sit-in area and or go al fresco and watch the comings and goings from the street. There’s good homemade soup, well-filled sandwiches, gourmet pies and enjoyable salads, plus good coffee and delicious sweet treats. For those in for some shopping there is plenty of groceries on offer, much from Scottish producers, as well as a good wine selection. + Great homemade food and enticing groceries - Get there early for most choice

The Flavour Co 517a Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: E1, 62) 0141 339 5967, flavourshop.co.uk | Closed Sun | £6.50 (lunch)

A small shop with big ambitions, The Flavour Co specialises in a vast range of fresh smoothies and fruit juices, created and pressed on the premises. The snug space has just enough seating for eight people but serves a passing trade of takeaway regulars attracted by lively, fresh flavours. Strawberry, avocado and pineapple is thick and creamy with a glowing zing, while a green smoothie is fibre-rich with a herby kick pulsing with leafy veg and fruit juices – ideal for a morning or lunchtime boost. The menu includes daily homemade soup alongside toasties, paninis, wraps and chunky sandwiches, freshly made using organic sourdough. All this, plus excellent coffee, daily deliveries, cleansing juice regimes and online shopping makes Flavour Co a tasty and healthy food stop. + Uplifting green juices - Limited seating

Grays Kitchen 305 Crow Road, West End (Map 9A : A1, off) 0141 562 9493 | Closed Sun | £5 (lunch)

A small bright deli stuffed with fresh out-of-the-oven delicacies like cheddar muffins, cakes and wholegrain bread, Grays is a forward-thinking family venture with a great selection of eats. The cheddar muffins are pleasingly light and combine red onion marmalade and cherry tomatoes. Gluten-free visitors will be pleased to find a selection of pies in the freezer as well as gluten-free bread and biscuits. Beef sausage rolls are parcelled in light, soft pastry and are nicely seasoned. Fudge-like dark chocolate brownies are also a particular highlight from a well-stocked counter of cakes. + Great range of well-thought out deli food - No seating

The Kitchen Window 187 Hyndland Road, West End (Map 9A: A1, 2) 0141 339 3303, thekitchenwindow. co.uk | £6 (lunch)

A relative newcomer on the shopping and dining stretch of Hyndland Road, this compact café is rather aptly named with open kitchen and not much space beyond seats at the window watching Hyndland’s always entertaining life pass by, though more seating is available on a mezzanine. The Kitchen window offers an appealing spot for good coffee, a range of sandwiches, soups, salads and pies. For those after a quick cake with the brew then they’ll be well served by the sweet treats on offer here. They run a catering service, too. + Cosy and compact - No place for prams

and chargrilled vegetables is tart and creamy. Cakes are a highlight: the apple and almond tart goes beautifully with the strong, flavoursome coffee. There’s also an appealing deli section including tea, Italian cold meats, pasta, rice, sauces and syrups, as well as the basics of eggs, milk and bread. Take a seat at the window, linger over a coffee and croissant, and watch the world go by. + Coffee – strong and full-bodied - Sandwich filling could be more generous

Laboratorio Espresso 93 West Nile Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 67) 0141 353 1111, laboratorioespresso.com | £5 (set lunch)

In a city centre awash with national coffee chains, it’s good to see independents gaining ground. Laboratorio Espresso is one such venue. It may be small but it’s beautifully constructed, literally from concrete moulds and wood reclaimed from Glasgow School of Art – a design that has seen it shortlisted for an architectural award. Primarily a coffee and cake emporium, the café has its own special blend from Dear Green, along with a weekly guest blend, plus an array of Italian treats that continue the small is beautiful theme. Sandwiches, like the cakes, are supplied from local Italian specialists, and whether eaten cold or toasted are impressive. An Italian breakfast menu ensures bustling trade all day and while it’s all too easy to grab a takeaway coffee, such is the exquisiteness of the café’s architecture, it would be remiss not to enjoy it with a slice of Sicilian orange cake. + An architectural delight - Not many sandwiches to chose from

La Tea Doh 136 Nithsdale Road, Southside (Map 8: B2, 3) 0141 424 3224, lateadoh.co.uk | Closed Sun | £6.50 (lunch)

Nic’s NYC Deli

La Tea Doh may be small, but it’s nicely formed, with a selection of sandwiches, sweet treats and shelves packed with gourmet gifts. Breakfast options are nofuss, with toast, croissants or bacon and egg rolls. The pulled pork and coleslaw on toasted panini is spicy and sweet, and for vegetarians the goat’s cheese

Transforming the former Crêpe à Croissant venue in St Enoch Square, Nic’s NYC Deli takeout is well placed to get plenty of footfall for the range of US-influenced food that is currently the thing to consume in Glasgow. With the griddles used for crêpes now utilised for cooking up pancake stacks with various

50 St Enoch Square, City Centre (Map 6: E6, 120) 0141 226 3075 | £6 (lunch)

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smotherings, there is little remant of the former shop now taken over by a range of hot dogs, US-sized sangers such as the Manwich, racking up the chicken, ham and pastrami, or the Heart Stopper with slow-coooked barbecue pork. And, of course, there’s doughnuts, too -- even some with savoury fillings. Sure, it isn’t going to do Glasgow’s health any good, but it’ll put a smile on your face. + Top dogs - Health-conscious beware

4 Riverhill Coffee Bar 24 Gordon Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 94) 0141 204 4762, riverhillcafe.com/ coffee-bar | £7.50 (lunch)

With its City Centre location, imaginative sandwich flavours, and cakes that have to be tasted to be believed, Riverhill Coffee Bar is worthy of daily visits. There’s a serious commitment to high-quality, locally sourced ingredients, with Dear Green coffee, Puddledub meats, and fish from the Fish People. For a breakfast treat, go for the signature Puddledub sausage roll – a black pudding core wrapped in minced pork and flaky pastry. The sandwiches are attractively presented in waxed paper tied with string, in meattastic flavours ranging from chicken club to spicy mexican BLT. The cakes are a real highlight – the Billionaire’s Shortbread consists of a biscuit base, a thick caramel centre, and a bitter cocoa topping, while the Tres Leche cake is moist and sweet. However, with only 10

TIP/,67 FOR SNACKS ON THE GO • Babu Bombay Street Kitchen The place to go for spicy street food in the city 156 • Brown Sugar Southside sisters sandwiching between homebaked bread 139 • Cottonrake Kelvinbridge’s new bakery delivers the baked goodies 146 • Delizique Grab and go with a slice of the ‘big piece’ 141 • McCune Smith Café Local sourcing to the fore near the Cathedral 142 • Nic’s NYC Deli US-style snacks to go at St Enoch Square 146 • Piece Grab a gourmet sandwich in Finnieston or Kelvinbridge 143, 145 • Roast Addictive, meaty offerings near Kelvingrove 147 • Smile Café Italian inspired treats from this paninoteca 147 • Yiamas Greek Taverna Greek gyros to go from this terriﬁc taverna 168

seats it gets very busy at lunchtime and weekends, so it’s not the ideal place to linger over a cappuccino. + Amazing cakes - Difficult to get a seat

4 HITLIST

4 Roast 1299 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 11) 0141 334 1413, roastglasgow. com | Closed Sun | £6.50 (lunch)

’Serves You Right’, the tagline for Roast, a sandwich specialist close to Kelvingrove museum, could be as much a reflection of its modern take on the takeout as it is the pleasant neighbourly demeanour exuded. In her first venture, Lynn Girasoli is dishing out the humble piece – though not so humble here – from a compact shop, ringed by thin bars and a dozenish perches. Breakfast items are a step up, made with quality pork products, but the real star here is the oven and the range of roasts created within. Counter coldcuts are all homecooked, but many customers don’t see past the special roast of the day, ranging from slow-cooked pulled pork or beef brisket done overnight, the Philly steak and cheese, piri piri chicken or a messy but mesmerising Moroccan lamb on a flatbread with minty yogurt. Between herself, her supplier Rodgers of Byres Road and that oven, Girasoli is making magical meat to go in memorable sandwiches. + Passionate about the piece - Choice can be limited - and specials can go quick

4 Roots and Fruits 455–457 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: F2, 67) 0141 339 3077, rootsfruitsandflowers.com | £8.50 (lunch)

With a few seats dotted throughout its renowned deli, Roots and Fruits does not offer a conventional café atmosphere. What it does offer, however, is exceptional food, with customers only have to swivel around on their stool and gaze around the shop to assure themselves that all components of each dish are as fresh as can be. The menu is vibrant and varied, and includes a number of vegan salads as well as a vegan curry. A recent addition is their hotpot, which allows the preparation of dishes such as meaty stews, while those after a slightly less hearty feed will not be left disappointed with the wonderfully light and refreshing salmon and dill fishcakes. Having satisfied your hunger, customers can spend time perusing the shelves, which contain all manner of wholefoods and fresh fruit and veg, while browsing the deli may see you leaving with enough healthy, pre-prepared dishes to last a week. + All ingredients are of exceptional quality - It is a shop first so café service not always that slick

4 Smile Café 102 Queen Margaret Drive, West End (Map 9A: D1, off) 07528 661275 | Closed Mon | £7 (lunch)

Not many places serve a marocchino this good. The broad, striated layers – pouring dark chocolate, espresso, hot milk, and cream – beg to be stirred, so it’s no surprise this café was named a 3 Cup Excellence Outlet by the Beverage Standards Association. The secret? Like the salads, soups and sandwiches served here, the coffee’s artfully made by two Italians who are incredibly passionate about what they do. Like the best Italian cooking, straightforward dishes dazzle thanks to quality ingredients – either imported from Italy or sourced locally. An impressive selection of sandwiches make this a popular place to pick up

CAFÉS WEE PLACES 4 Cottonrake One of the best artisan bakeries in the city with a few seats and perches for experiencing the intoxicating blend of fresh bread, cakes and coffee.

CHINESE There’s never a great deal of movement in this section and this year is no exception. But the standard is generally high, and most places here have something unique about them -the ability of good Chinese chefs to extract flavour and balance tastes is unceasingly impressive. Cantonese cooking and Scotland’s waters have always liked each other and the best places know their local seafood. Duck, pork and (increasingly popular) Scottish lamb are worth trying too. There is great eating to be done, and you can have any beer you like, as long as it’s Tsingtao. Reviewers: Tiff Griffin, David Kirkwood

4 Riverhill Coffee Bar Beautifully presented sandwiches and delicious cakes in a City Centre location that is the perfect spot for people-watching.

4 Roast A smart sandwich shop dishing out the classics with quality ingredients as well as more inventive, and exceptionally enticing, creations.

4 Roots and Fruits Healthy, wholesome and heartfelt, this popular grocery and deli operation specialises in quality lunch options at Kelvinbridge.

4 Smile Café A genuine taste of Italy, with award-winning coffee and superb sandwiches using fresh, homemade bread – all lovingly prepared, with a smile, by Santino and Rocco.

lunch – spicy salami, Asiago cheese, sundried tomatoes on homemade focaccia is always a favourite. With biscuits imported from a patisserie in Sienna, decadent cakes – like torta Caprese – baked on premises, and range of Italian store cupboard items for sale, Smile is essentially a mouthwatering food holiday to Italy, without the plane ticket. + Award-winning coffee lovingly made by Santino or Rocco - Can get busy at weekends

Tempo Tea Bar 83 Queen Street, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 106) , tempoteabar.com | £2.95/£3.95 (regular/large)

The first taste of bubble tea can be revelatory – a manifestation of childhood fantasies where drinks are full of chewy sweets and magical ingredients that burst and pop and delight. Glasgow’s first dedicated outlet for the Taiwanese tea-based, tapioca-filled drink, Tempo is small, colourful and fun, full of clean lines and smiley faces. Creative concocting is to the fore - start with the basic tempo of milk or fruit tea, add a melody of flavours from vanilla to various fruits, then round off your composition with a final harmony of chewy tapioca balls – aka boba, fruity jelly pieces or pobbing pearls that burst in the mouth and disgorge their juicy filling. + Deliciously different drinks - Not much seating for sipping

Veldt Deli 407 Great Western Road, West End See Round the World

4 Amber Regent 50 West Regent Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 60) 0141 331 1655, amberregent. com | £9.50 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

There’s an old-fashioned charm to the Amber Regent which is reassuringly steadfast. Nothing much changes here – top-end cooking, seafood, and prime Scottish meats, served on white-linen tables by super-efficient waiting staff. Fish, be it seabass, halibut or Dover sole, is expertly steamed in high quality soy and spring onions, then filleted at your table. Food is treated sensitively. Thin slices of lamb are stir-fried in a sauce that has a remarkable kick of black pepper. Venison is another offering seldom found in a Chinese restaurant. Prices are high but the cooking is highly skilled. Even the crispy beef dumplings stand out, with a hint of pink to the meat and a touch of five-spice to the aftertaste. Special mention must go to the desserts: the cheesecake of the day might be something unashamedly decadent like a strawberry and white chocolate number, while the coconut surprise has flakes of coconut whipped through a giant ball of vanilla ice-cream. Their early evening deal allows you to try all main courses at half price, and it runs all evening Sunday to Tuesday. There is much to love. + Bold combinations of Chinese flavours and Scottish produce - Only Tennent’s lager on draft

Asia Style 185–189 St George’s Road, West End (Map 9A: H4, 95) 0141 332 8828 | £19 (dinner)

Asia Style has been joined by a couple of nearby rivals of late, and some of its (many) long-term customers have started to suspect a star that’s waning. In response, this Chinese-Malaysian mainstay has given itself a refit, of sorts, with new signage, sweatshirts and a brighter, more spacious interior. It’s still very much the same vibe though, a late-night caférestaurant with complimentary jasmine tea for all customers. Its signature dishes are still brilliant. Crispy pork with green beans is a moreish dish of spicy, savoury, chewy and crispy, while their soft shell crab (a legend in this town), flash-fried with salt, pepper and chilli flakes, is still as good as you’ll taste (and a few places have copied them). Pork is normally nice, and the Malaysian options have a real vibrancy to their heat and their flavours. The more common dishes (your Szechuans and your satays) are where it feels like others have caught it up, and it might be a tad pricey for the basic interior. Waiting staff will tell you what’s good and what’s popular, and these are particularly sensible starting points in a venue that can still be well The List Eating & Drinking Guide 147

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TABLE Talk

STEFAN SPICKNELL ON LIFE AND BREAD Life, increasingly seems to be filled with a million tasks that need doing yesterday. Of late my routine is to finish my shift in the bakery, shop for whatever seems to be the perfect meal we’re in the mood for that evening, and collect my 2-year-old. Getting home and into the house is a juggling act. As I start it seems an impossible task in one trip, but I always manage to give it a go. I get through the front door laden with all my shopping, and now a small child soaking wet from jumping in all the puddles, and somehow a pile of letters have made it into my mouth. I make a dash for the kitchen counter, where everything is thrown with a massive amount of drama and relief. My lovely boy is already demanding choo-choo and pointing at a box. I set the train track up and, on completion, I realise the shopping is still all over the kitchen, warming. So I run round to start the big put-away, knocking the breakfast stuff over as I go. Putting the shopping away, I see a small freshly baked baguette and it stops me, I can’t help it. I take it in hand and break the perfectly crusty end off and already start to unwind. Butter knife in hand, I scoop a small knob of butter on to the end and I eat. I have a perfect moment. I slow and just savour the taste and textures in my mouth -- just that one thing and nothing else. Bread can do that. I think it might be its simplicity. It takes us back to something basic from our past, to simpler times we all crave for and seldom find. I love it. Q Stefan Spicknell is owner and head baker at Cottonrake (see page 146). cottonrake.com

148 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Ho Wong: carefully sourced seafood ensure a quality dining experience in suitably plush surrounds

worth a visit if you choose wisely. + Complimentary tea - Inconsistent quality on the menu

Asian Gourmet 17 West Princes Street, West End (Map 9A: H4, 94) 0141 332 1639 | £14 (dinner)

First descend to a basement that feels like one you might not re-emerge from. Then there’s two-tone tiling reminiscent of an upmarket spa. And carpet that doesn’t match. And also the fact that, because of the food, none of that matters. Appearances can be deceptive and none more so than when the first waft from the kitchen reaches you. Complimentary green tea and prawn crackers fill a mercifully short gap until dishes from the traditional menu arrive. The salt and chilli squid is among the best in the city and the mains the same. King prawn and tofu with ginger and spring onions, Szechuan pork and Chinese greens and shredded beef come bursting with simple, classic Oriental flavours. Huge portions are worth savouring to the last noodle – luckily it’s so relaxed that staff happily doggybag it at your table. When the bill comes you’ll wonder how so much that was so good cost so little. + Stunningly authentic flavours - Outside doesnt invite you in

Banana Leaf 67 Cambridge Street, City Centre

See Far East

China Blue 96 Renfield Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 63) 0141 333 1881, chinableu.co.uk | £5.95 (set lunch) / £21 (set dinner)

China Blue has one of those ‘blink and you’ll miss it’ entrances that leads up to a first floor restaurant with no pretensions. Gingham tablecloths and bright, abstract paintings are the décor, with genuinely charming waiting staff topping up drinks and checking up on the table at regular intervals. The sharing platter is a good way to start. Most Chinese places will do something similar – a spread of deep-fried favourites – but here, the spring roll is a giant specimen with proper chunks of chicken, the prawn toast actually tastes of prawn, and the centerpiece is crispy shredded seaweed on a lettuce leaf. It’s great value, as is their tasting menu which at £21 is one of the cheapest in town. Mains are dependable and generous – chicken, beef, prawns and, pleasingly, sliced lamb, all available with various familiar sauces like lemon, garlic, black

bean et al. The kung-po comes with fresh red chillis and dried cayenne ones too, and is both vibrant and fiery. Interesting choices include Malaysian curries and the ‘jiang nan’ sauce – a creamy, tangy, fruity number which isn’t for everyone, but is one of China Blue’s most popular dishes. Early evening is when the restaurant is at its busiest and buzziest. + Staff who put a smile on your face - Struggles for atmosphere when it’s quiet

Chow 98 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C2, 26) 0141 334 9818, chowrestaurant.co.uk | £6.50 (set lunch) / £15.50 (dinner)

notable dishes include fillet steak slices with red peppers in a peppercorn sauce – lovely and tender for a stir-fry, or the Stornoway black pudding spring rolls – a nice merging of our two cultures. Garlic is a favoured ingredient, including the garlic-fried rice, which is a nice variant from the ‘boiled or fried’ choices in other venues. Dragon-i might not be the brave new upstart it was when it opened ten years ago but it still enjoys a healthy trade, especially from theatregoers to the Theatre Royale opposite. + Bold combinations that work - Bold combinations that don’t work

Chow is a family-run neighbourhood affair that just so happens to be in the hustling-bustling, student-heavy stretch that is Byres Road. The simple wooden seating and lovely mezzanine provide a thoroughly agreeable backdrop for the Chinese favourites they serve to West End regulars. No surprises here, but the classics are done well. For starters, wuntun soup is a crisp, clear broth with the delicate finish of sesame oil, while the prawn dim sum are nicely steamed, properly glutinous and served with a freshly made dipping sauce of salty-fishy goodness. Mains are well portioned. Chicken cashew’s beaten slices and still-crunchy nuts are tossed with diced carrots among a light sauce, and char-sui pork is well seasoned and nicely textured. Chinese restaurants can sometimes wallow in old-fashioned faux-formality or lacklustre cooking. Not Chow. With its modern décor, relaxed atmosphere, the quality of the food and the reasonable prices, it compares very well. + Accessible, fun and cheap - Struggles for intimacy

Dumpling Monkey

Dragon-i

Other Chinese restaurants exclaim their ‘seafood specialist’ credentials. But Ho Wong shades it, with nearly 50 fish and shellfish dishes between starters and mains. Their lemon sole is as good a dish as you’ll taste in this section – thick chunks dusted in cornflower, salt and pepper then flashed in the pan. It takes a bit of know-how with a wok not to ruin such a delicate fish, and no sauce is needed, such is the deftness of the hand that seasons. MacCallum’s of Troon supply everything – the satay seafood platter showcases their fat scallops, juicy prawns and meaty wedges of monkfish, seared and sizzling as they come out of the kitchen, alongside an Indonesian-style satay paste that takes no prisoners. It was monkfish that Rick Stein had, too, when

311–313 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: E2, 30) 0141 332 7728, dragon-i.co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Twinkling wine glasses and gleaming cutlery on the table tell you Dragon-i’s Chinese–Malaysian-fusion cuisine comes in a westernised, fine-dining setting (no chopsticks here). A good wine list and muted lighting add to its potential for intimate dinner dates. The concise menu has always aimed to stand out with bold combinations of Scottish produce and far-Eastern cooking styles. Sometimes it feels overly bold. King prawns topped with strawberries is a flavour contrast too far for some, but they’ve been an everpresent on the menu for many years now so they clearly have their admirers. Other

121 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 16) 0141 583 8300 | Closed Sun | £6.50 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Although the rather cool, cartoony stylings have disappeared from the exterior to make way for a much more confusing PC repairs type sign spanning this Partick dumpling shop and neighbour. Smaller lettering on the signage is now the only give-away to the Chinese delights inside this small, cafeteria-style set-up that offers a compact menu featuring top-quality dumplings, be they boiled or fried up as ‘pot-stickers’, and coming as portions of ten with choice of pork, beef or veggie. Elsewhere on the menu, bowls of noodle and wonton soup, filled steamed buns and tapioca tea, all at reasonable prices, add to the enticement at this funky little diner. + Top dumplings - Confusing signage

Ho Wong 82 York Street, City Centre (Map 6: C6, 125) 0141 221 3550, ho-wong.com | £11.90 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

CHINESE

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4 HITLIST

CHINESE 4 Amber Regent Scotland’s formidable larder is marvellously embraced in this old-fashioned and classy affair in the City Centre.

4 Loon Fung From afternoon to the early hours, big portions and big flavours are pared with deft touches at this Cantonese favourite.

he featured the restaurant in his ‘Food Heroes’ TV show. He’s not alone – even midweek there’s a buzz about Ho Wong, with everyone from visiting businessmen to families celebrating a special occasion (the décor is accordingly plush). Szechuan and ‘gumbo’ sauces are vibrant, tangy options for the chicken and meat dishes if fish isn’t your thing. They’re equally wellcooked. Nothing’s cheap (slices of fillet steak with crispy garlic is a lovely starter but £10 is hefty), and there’s no pre-theatre either. But it’s great eating, for certain. + Selection of fish dishes - Service can be overly efficient

Ka Ka Lok 175 St Georges Road, West End (Map 9A: H4, 96) 0141 353 6528, kakalok.weebly. com | £15 (lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Close to established favourites Asia Style and Asian Gourmet, Ka Ka Lok is the latest addition to what’s now a hub of Oriental eateries near St George’s Cross. Similar in style and décor to those nearby, the interior is minimal and unfussed: this place is all about the food, though modest prices and generous portions add to the allure. Fresh, uncomplicated Chinese classics fill the menu, from ginger and spring onion prawns to char siu pork. Clay pot dishes showcase the freshness, quality and authenticity of the cooking, while the salt and chilli squid packs both heat and flavour into one of the menu’s highlights. Service is swift from staff with natural, unaffected warmth and takeaway customers are offered jasmine tea while they wait. Excellent in its own right, this newcomer may well keep neighbouring rivals on their toes - great news for Glasgow’s Chinese fans. + A worthy challenger to nearby rivals - Basic interior

4 Loon Fung 417–419 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: A2, 6) 0141 332 1240, loonfungglasgow.co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

On the back wall, a dragon (in Cantonese: Loon) and a phoenix (Fung) watch over their 40-year-old dining room, basking in the many reasons it’s still one of Glasgow’s most popular Cantonese restaurants. In the afternoon they will see lots of the local Chinese community come in for the dim sum, while early evening means big groups meeting for multiplecourse ‘banquets’ served on turning tables, and the early hours will bring with them an eclectic array of workers, revellers and night-owls. Seafood is sourced locally,

and handled skilfully. Salt and pepper king prawns are tossed through roasted garlic chips and fresh chilli to leave a savoury zing in the mouth without overpowering, while monkfish is delicately battered and served with a thickened sweetcorn sauce to delicate, comforting effect. And they seriously know how to handle duck. The kung-po option is packed with juicy, meaty flavour and a portion that is beyond generous (they all are). Western palates are catered for with an appetiser platter of the usual deep-fried suspects, or the impossibly bright, sharp sauce that makes the lemon chicken. But there is so much more to Loon Fung than that – to which a phoenix, a dragon, and many, many regulars will testify. + Duck dishes - Service can be brisk

Lychee Oriental 59 Mitchell Street, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 117) 0141 248 2240, lycheeoriental.co.uk | £9.80 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Each day the Lychee Oriental chefs brew up a stock pot for two hours and they use this, rather than plain water, in much of the cooking to intensify the flavour. It’s a nice touch – one of many here. Veg is crunchy, ingredients are local, and the overall sensation is of dishes that are simple but classy. Beef with asparagus combines all these elements, contrasting textures in a light but meaty sauce. West coast mussels are served ‘European style’ in a bowl, but with a punchy black bean sauce clinging to them. The menu borrows from other South-East Asian countries too – chicken ‘morning glory’ looking to Thailand for its vibrant foretaste of aniseed, and satay skewers coming with an Indonesian-style dip with proper crumbs of peanut through it. Each dish has little characteristics of its own, and the menu changes every six months or so (not often the case in this section). There’s care and attention all round (including a gluten-free menu upon request). Clean lines, muted lighting and lots of foliage make up the décor, and it’s probably got the best bar in this section, including Sun Lik lager on draft. + A lovely balance of classic and modern - Lacks warmth when it’s not busy

Master Sun’s Hot Pot 87 Cambridge Street, City Centre (Map 6: D1, 26) 0141 258 4179 | £16.99 (dinner)

Hotpots are popular all over China and Southeast Asia, but this is one of the few places you’ll find them here. They’re a sort of cross between a fondue and a stew – choose your soup base (chicken stock, pork stock, miso, hot and spicy) and then cook all sorts of meat, fish, veg and dumplings in it. Sliced lamb and pork are done in a minute or so, with cooking times increasing as you work your way through lobster balls, potatoes or turnips, tofu, wonton or black fungus, up to five minutes for squid or brown crab. The broth infuses the food, and perhaps coolest of all, you get to make your own dipping sauce from sesame and chilli oils, oyster and soy sauces, garlic, crispy onions, etc. Expect salty, fiery results, (the hot and spicy broth can pack a serious kick, too). It’s a fun (and healthy) way to eat. In the narrow confines of Master Sun’s, custom is principally Chinese students who know the score, but staff are happy to talk newbies through the process. It feels a bit DIY, for sure, but it’s a matter of personal taste, of being able to experiment without having to gamble an entire meal on an ingredient you’ve never tried before. It’s an enjoyable journey, more often than not. + Like snowflakes, every hotpot is different - Easy to lose track of what’s in the broth and how long it’s got left

See Woo Restaurant The Point, 29 Saracen Street (Map 6: D1, off) 0141 331 6105, seewoorestaurant.com | £9.80 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Size matters at See Woo. The restaurant is actually a gigantic banqueting hall, attached to the largest Chinese supermarket in Scotland. Even the tables are massive. It is a bit out of town, but there are lots of reasons why it’s worth the jaunt, none more so than the Cantonese barbecue – fiery red pigs, ducks and chickens glistening and glowing on the spit like they do in the Chinatown windows of London and Manchester. The ‘3-Roast’ allows you to try suckling pig, roast duck and best of all, pork belly – packed with spices, the outside crisped up to disintegration point, the inner a thick wedge of fatty, flavoursome meat. Elsewhere, ‘Szechuan style hot and fiery chilli’ beef isn’t as fierce as the name suggests, but it’s remarkably tender (and beef in Chinese restaurants often isn’t), coated in a light batter and fried with chillis that make the cooking oil spicy. Liplicking stuff. The dim sum are great too, elegant dumplings of, say, chicken with peanuts, or minced pork with radishes, both showing the kitchen’s ability to delicately balance flavours and textures. A skill that is to be expected whatever you order – from Western-leaning numbers like chicken in black bean sauce, through to traditional dishes like duck tongue. And (of course) portions are big. + The most unique Chinese restaurant in Glasgow . . - . . . but also the most difficult to get to

FAR EAST FUSION, JAPANESE, MALAYSIAN, KOREAN Luscious, sexy, freshly chopped herbs, wild, mischievous little chillies and welcoming, earthy ground spices: welcome to the Far East section where the food has wok-loads of personality. If you think of Asian cuisine you may think of ‘street food’: hot, steaming, cooked-fresh-in-frontof-you food, casually dished up to eat on the move with a plastic fork and a satisfied grin. The restaurants in this section have all that – and a touch more class. From the spicy, rich flavours of Malaysia to the delicate, intricate dishes of Japan, delve into this section for a variety of Asian flavours. Reviewer: Erica Goodey

Banana Leaf MALAYSIAN

67 Cambridge Street, City Centre (Map 6: D1, 27) 0141 333 9994, bananaleafglasgow.com | Closed Mon | £9.50 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Malaysian food is known as a soupedup version of Chinese cuisine (though not literally) in that a lot of dishes are similar, though flavours can be more intense. With two brothers out front running the joint and their father out the back, cooking up the goods, this place

nipponkitchen Authentic Japanese restaurant in the heart of Glasgow

PRIVATE DINING ROOMS AVAILABLE 91 WEST GEORGE ST GLASGOW, G2 1PB

0141 328 3113 nipponrestaurant.co.uk & The List Eating & Drinking Guide 149

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4 HITLIST

shrimp crackers and refreshing little pickles. With plenty of drink promotions in the bar and special deals, it’s no wonder that this place draws in plenty of local students. + Badass design features - Bar might be too noisy for some

4 Bar Soba FUSION

11 Mitchell Lane, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 114) 0141 204 2404, barsoba.co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £16.50 (dinner)

FAR EAST 4 Bar Soba These two barrestaurants both do fantastic fusion food served up in super stylish surroundings with a laid-back, funky groove.

4 The Hanoi Bike Shop Beautiful, fresh ingredients and a pinch of passion make this Vietnamese venture from the owners of Ubiquitous Chip really special.

4 Nanakusa Glasgow meets Japan in this casual yet cultured restaurant which serves up hearty plates of tasty food.

is a real family-run restaurant – which means you can overlook its slightly tired interior. On the menu you’ll find plenty of dishes that you might find at your local Chinese: try the prawn and pork crispy fried wontons to start – the juicy meat is complemented by perfectly crisp pastry, or the chicken satay, saturated in strikingly fresh zingy spices. Then there are the dishes you probably won’t find at your local, such as a king prawns delicately cooked with milk, butter, curry leaves and chewy sticks of lemongrass, or salmon crackers, which are thicker and more moist than their prawn cousins. A dish of slowcooked chicken with rice is a little bland compared to flavours elsewhere, while a gelatinous palm sugar and milk dessert is a hue of blue that’s practically luminous. + Some flavoursome, delicious dishes - Some food falls short of the mark they set

4 Bar Soba FUSION

116–122 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C2, 27) 0141 357 5482, barsoba.co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £16.50 (dinner)

The younger, more studenty twin of the City Centre Soba is made up of a restaurant, which only opens during weekends or busy periods, and a lively bar, which can attract loud crowds. The hip urban interior features funky graffiti, exposed brickwork and mangainspired murals on shanty-town style pieces of corrugated metal. The fusion menu is overwhelmingly large in a good way (though you may want to try everything). There are wok and broth dishes, curries, rotis, sushi, steamed buns and a variety of starters that range from Hong Kong dumplings to Thai fishcakes – with every other Asian flavour inbetween. The inside-out crazy boy maki is a delicious change from normal sushi: crab meat and cucumber are wrapped in rice then lightly fried in tempura batter, giving the rolls a satisfying warmth. Nasi goreng is a feast of spicy Indonesian fried rice topped off with a fried egg, while chicken skewers come with a thick, rich peanut sauce, 150 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

It’s all about the design at Bar Soba – especially since this incarnation of the bar-diner had an upgrade in 2013 to keep up with its younger sibling. With plenty of reclaimed wood, bare bricks and concrete furnishings, there’s an underlying industrial feel to the interior, although it is layered with contemporary Asian-influenced highlights, such as beautiful, colourful murals downstairs and funky, Japanese-style graffiti upstairs. The massive menu comprises various delights, from curries, rice and noodle dishes to sushi and steamed buns. A starter of chicken bon-bons include three deep-fried balls of shredded chicken, brought to life by a sweet and spicy bed of crunchy lemongrass with fresh red chillis. Duck curry is beautifully presented with wee side pots of chilli flakes and fish sauce. Choice continues to dishes, such as a terrific Cambodian seafood laksa, or even a Bangkok burger, infused with fresh herbs and spices and served with Thai slaw. With a wide range of exotic cocktails, a laid-back ambience and DJs pumping out deep, dark funky soul, it’s no wonder that this place draws in a hip, young City Centre crowd. + Fabulous cocktails - Chewy duck

Bull Leader JAPANESE

55 Union Street, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 116) 07898 481111 | £17.99 (set lunch) £17.99 (set dinner)

Cook your own food? Whatever next: bring your own food? At this rate, staying in for some home-cooked food might be the next trend. This Japanese buffet diner on Union Street, rather canteeny in appearance, is the equivalent of Chinese Master Sun’s Hot Pot near Garnethill, offering diners a chance to make a mess of their own food at the all-you-can-eat set-price option of £17.99 – that rather surprisingly doesn’t reduce at lunchtime. Diners, mainly Asian, have an oiled hot plate on the table and proceed to cook the range of meaty offerings themselves (or be assisted if newbies), from safe-bets such as prawns, white fish and pork or beef skewers to the more adventurous options such as pigs’ ears, ox hearts or duck gizzards. Spice mixes and chilli sauce are available as condiments, as well as sushi on offer – it’s fun and lively, easy enough to get the hang of for budding tabletop grillers. + Fun food experience - Same price for lunch as dinner

Cailin’s Sushi

NOODLE & SUSHI BARS 1136 Argyle Street, City Centre (Map 9B: D2, 24) 0141 334 8637, cailinssushi.co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

If you’re a sushi lover be warned: you will want to try everything that this tiny sushi shack offers. Cailin’s is probably more of a takeaway than a restaurant. There’s just enough room inside for a fridge full of pre-prepared sushi, bottled drinks (no alcohol here, but there are some intriguing – and very fun – Japanese soft drinks to try) and a couple of benches, which can be jammed full of hungry passers-by. The range of sushi is impressive, delicious

and, apart from a couple of nigiris in plastic wrappers, really quite beautiful. The king prawn tempura roll comes wrapped up with cucumber, omelette, wasabi fish roe and teriyaki sauce – the crispy battered prawns at the centre of the encasement of soft rice are a delight. The rainbow roll features pretty thin layers of salmon, tuna and seabass layered on top of rice, cucumber and avocado, and, like everything here, is incredibly fresh. Try a rice burger – a choice of chicken, beef or fish in a ‘bun’ made out of dryfried rice – it’s tasty, relatively healthy, and probably unlike any other burger in Glasgow. + Seriously authentic sushi - Casual dining only

noodles mixed with flash-fried chicken and seafood, simple and tasty. There are also katsu curries and rice dishes on the menu, but the real delights lie in the sushi and side orders. The salmon maki rolls are super-fresh, while the hot sirloin steak maki are rolled up and fried with garlic sautéed mushrooms, soy sauce and a noticeable slug of sake. The fact that these restaurants have each been open for well over decade without signs of slowing down show the consistent reliability of quality food and service. + Some awesome morsels of yumminess - Can’t avoid overhearing your neighbour’s conversations

4 The Hanoi Bike Shop

441 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: A2, 3) 0141 332 6303, nanakusa. co.uk | £5.95–8.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

VIETNAMESE

8 Ruthven Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 40) 0141 334 7165, thehanoibikeshop. co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

With culinary institutions such as Ubiquitous Chip and Stravaigin as sisters, it’s no surprise that this casual Vietnamese restaurant is nothing short of brilliant. A couple of retro bicycles out front, a rainbow of beautiful bulbous lampshades, and casual little plastic baskets filled with exotic sauces and chopsticks all contribute to the authentic, relaxed vibe. The staff are real foodies who put the effort in, especially talking through the menu. A tapas-like mishmash of different plates to share is recommended – pink, juicy sesame seedcrusted chicken livers, or the surprisingly moist Vietnamese rice cakes with salty nuggets of crispy fried fish. Homemade tofu comes served in huge chunks, while a range of ‘pho’ includes varieties such as cuts of beef in a marrow broth. A special dish of pigeon breast – served rare and marinated in spices and garlic on warm beansprouts – really steals the show. From the tangy basil ice-cream to the range of Vietnamese beer and the coffee – which like in Vietnam, is of a remarkable quality – it’s the small details that makes this place really special. + Casual, authentic and decently priced - Sitting on a stool = back ache

Ichiban Japanese Noodle Café NOODLE & SUSHI BARS

• 50 Queen Street, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 118) 0141 204 4200, ichiban.co.uk | £7.50 (set lunch) / £12.50 (dinner) • 184 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 8) 0141 334 9222, ichiban.co.uk | £7.50 (set lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

These stalwarts of Glasgow’s oriental dining scene have been serving up hot noodles, sushi and bento boxes to hungry weegies for many years now. The Queen Street branch has been on the go since 1998 and the West End branch since 2002. The informal canteen-style dining rooms feature long, wooden benches. Don’t come to Ichiban if you’re expecting privacy. Do come here if you’re looking for simple, fresh Japanese-style cuisine that’s easy on the wallet. Both restaurants feature plenty of noodle dishes, such as the wok-fried Ichiban yakisoba – a hearty heap of

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps and links, go to

food.list.co.uk

4 Nanakusa JAPANESE

Nestled among the bars and kebab shops of Sauchiehall Street, you wouldn’t realise from Nanakusa’s funky-looking wooden front that the restaurant inside is anything but pedestrian. Casual and down to earth, yet subtly stylish, the interior features an odd mix of simple, contemporary furnishings blended with high-ceilinged, elegant cornicing. Starters mainly consist of deep-fried things: king prawns, chicken, dumplings, etc. Mashed potato and chicken cakes are coated in a crispy, lightly spiced batter and – of course – deep fried, with just a hint of cinnamon. Main courses feature noodle dishes and teppanyakicooked meats and fish. The niku noodles are stir-fried with wonderfully tender strips of beef, peppers, spring onions and a sweet chilli sauce. The sushi is a must try – such as sweet potato maki mono where white rice crumbles and gives way to soft, tender, sweet potato in a light tempura batter. The sushi is so fresh that the potato is still slightly warm. To finish black sesame ice-cream is a real treat; although it looks a little murky, its sweet, nutty, creaminess is incredibly addictive. + Trendy take on Japanese cuisine - No backs to the chairs

Nippon Kitchen JAPANESE

91 West George Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 71) 0141 328 3113, nipponrestaurant.co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Like sister restaurant Nanakusa, Nippon Kitchen just about manages to blend an uncommon mashup of classic Glaswegian architecture and subtly stylish Japanese interior design. The building is listed both inside and out, hence the aged oak panelling, high ceilings and marble pillars. If you hire a private dining room, don’t be surprised by the odd office layout upstairs – inside, the rooms are elegant and stylish. Starters include sushi and sashimi (a vast platter can be had as a main course), dumplings, grilled meats, or mixed tempura of king prawns and vegetables such as hot, sweet butternut squash. A main of thin strips of lightly seared salmon served on top of generous noodles, crunchy wok-fried vegetables and a zesty ginger sauce. Other mains include yakimono – meat or fish grilled on the teppanyaki, served with rice and pickles. All the food is elegant and immaculately presented. The impressive drinks menu features unfiltered sakis, cocktails and Japanese whiskies. The Suntori Hakushu 12-year-old malt carries a slight smokiness of a Scotch but all the caramel flavours of a bourbon, making it unique and delicious. + Unusual drinks menu - Dry duck

FAR EAST

In association with

GLASGOW

Opium

FUSION 191 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 56) 0141 332 6668, opiumrestaurant. co.uk | £10.50 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Opium deserves its reputation as a top spot for enjoying Far East fusion food. The interior of the restaurant, especially for eastern cuisine establishments, has a style that is uncomplicated and modern but not bare. It has a cuisine that matches this and which is built on simplicity and authenticity. Dim sum, one of their specialisms, are well presented, and the Malay Spicy Tiger Prawns had the hallmarks of freshly prepared ingredients handled with care in the kitchen. In a restaurant of this ambition you need to expect and get portions that are moderate in size at prices that edge towards the top end for Far Eastern food in town. In an era of excellent Scottish and other local beers, the choice on offer of only premium international brand beers is disappointing, though the wine list is broad and there are also cocktails to enjoy. + Superior oriental food in a stylish settting - Poor choice of beers

Rumours Kopitiam MALAYSIAN

21 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 66) 0141 353 0678 | £8.50 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Rumours could be great to pop into for a quick, tasty bite to eat after work or after a hard day’s shopping. The interior is quite plain but big windows make it a great spot for people watching. The menu features a few dishes you might see on a Chinese menu, such as chicken kung po, which is jazzed up with deepfried pieces of chicken, dried chillis and colourful chunks of pepper. There’s also a range of vegetable, chicken, meat, seafood, rice and noodle dishes. Like the Blue Lagoon across the road, the starters mainly involve deep-fried treats: the sweetcorn croquettes are creamy and tasty while the golden-yetteensy chicken satay sticks come with a gorgeous, thick, spicy peanut sauce. Try the salt and chilli king prawns, which are covered in nuggets of crunchy batter. The main course of steamed sea bass is a pleasing alternative from the other deep-fried food: tender fillets of sea bass come in a bath of Malaysian sauce, which combines the pleasing warmth of chilli and tangy notes of fresh oranges. With tasty tidbits and peppy service, this place is dandy for those in need of a feed. + Does the job - Pretty basic interior

such as duck pancakes. Meat and fish is then cooked in front of you. The lemon sole works particularly well, the flash-frying on the hot metal grill gives the fish a crisp shell, while the inside remains delicate and moist. The Porterhouse steak isn’t as impressive given the £27 tag, being rather flavourless and fatty. At Sapporo, there’s a sense you are paying for the fun of the teppanyaki experience as much as for the food. + Great sushi selection - One trick pony

Shilla

KOREAN 1138 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 20) 0141 334 5566, shilla-edinburgh.com | Closed Sun | £12 (lunch) £18 (dinner)

Obviously capitalising on the fact that its Glasgow’s only Korean restaurant, Shilla’s tiny dining area can be packed with customers perched on casual red plastic stools at the windows or at the cramped tables on the ground floor and mezzanine. Main courses come from different areas of the kitchen: chicken and potatoes in the chef’s special sauce from the hot pot; sizzling mackerel with Korean radish mustard from the chargrill; or one of the chef’s specials like salt and chilli king prawns, almost delicious but the whole dried red chillies when stir-fried don’t add much flavour and are chewy. To start, pork dumplings with tofu and glass noodles are warm and satisfyingly fatty. For a side order try Korea’s answer to coleslaw, Kimchi: a cold, fermented cabbage dish in a chilli sauce which is pleasingly spicy and sour at the same time. As with many Asian restaurants, expect the food to come out when it’s ready and the service to be a little haphazard. + Tasty pickled vegetables appetizer - Not that welcoming

Wagamama

NOODLE & SUSHI BARS 97–103 West George Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 71) 0141 229 1468, wagamama.com |

The enduring popularity of Japanese food in the UK is in no small part down to this national chain of dependable and popular noodle bars. The original Glasgow branch in West George Street is easily reached

from all the main shopping thoroughfares and City Centre offices, while its younger sister is to be found in the Silverburn shopping centre. Both can get pretty busy at peak times, though queues move quickly, as customers are whisked down to their bench seats by hip young staff - occasionally over-whisked. There is also a lengthy takeaway menu for those in even more of a rush. Favourite orders include katsu curries and teppan-fried noodle dishes; side orders like gyozas (steamed Japanese dumplings) and yakitori (skewered, marinated chicken). But more than any of these, diners tend to opt for the ‘ramen’ – zesty, hearty big bowls of ramen noodles in broth, filled with thinly sliced meat (or seafood) and lots of eastern vegetables. Slurping is encouraged. + Fast, feisty noodles - Not a place for a relaxing linger

FISH The West Coast of Scotland produces some of the best seafood in the world whether it be mussels, scallops, lobsters or langoustine. And where better to eat it than Glasgow? From buzzing café scenes, cool hangouts and slick bars to the precision and opulence of fine dining, there is sure to be something to suit all in this growing and respected category. Reviewer: Kirsty Bush

Arisaig 1 Merchant Square, Merchant City See Scottish

City Merchant Wudon

JAPANESE 535 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: E1, 60) 0141 357 3033, wudonnoodlebar.co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch) / £13.50 (dinner)

Instead of stools or cafeteria-style benches, Wudon carries off an unhurried sophistication, felt in the contemporary furnishings, grey slate walls, comfy seating and large murals featuring kimono-clad figures. However, it is also a good place to come for a quick bite. For the novelty factor alone, try the giant prawn crackers while you’re mulling over the menu, which features Japanese, Thai and Chinese dishes such as wok-fried noodles, sushi, and rice dishes. The Thai red curry ho fun comes with your choice of meat, crunchy stir-fried veg and sticky flat noodles. The sauce is much thinner, less spicy, more tangy than a typical coconut Thai curry, still flavoursome and fragrant. A range of ‘wee plates’ can be had as starter or tapas-style main meal, such as steamed scallops with ginger, wok-fried pak choi, or chargrilled prawn, pork and shiitake mushroom dumplings. Staff can border on the over attentive, but they are super friendly and can be particularly accommodating for those with dietary intolerance. + Lovely, modern interior - Not enough fierce fl avours

97–99 Candleriggs, Merchant City See Scottish

4 Crabshakk 1114 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 26) 0141 334 6127, crabshakk.com | Closed Mon | £24 (lunch) / £24 (dinner)

Crabshakk is probably Glasgow’s smallest restaurant – night after night punters squeeze into a handful of tightly packed wooden tables or sit on black leather high stools at the bar drinking champagne, eating oysters or langoustines – all freshly caught that day, as is all the fish served here. Noise levels are high with chattering diners, upbeat young staff and the clattering of pans from the tiny open-plan kitchen. The staple menu never varies but it’s the ever-changing handful of daily specials that entice you back over and over again – try pan-roasted halibut sitting on top of a piquant chorizo paella, the fish bold enough to not be overwhelmed by the powerful Spanish flavours. Crab claws, mussels and scallops all feature along with an impressive fish and chips, creamy smoky chowder and their own fish club sandwich – the fish changes daily and could be salmon layered with cod on lightly toasted doorstop bread, a hefty slick of mayo and some crisp leaves adding the finishing touch. Don’t skip pudding, a slab of sticky dark chocolate

Sapporo Teppanyaki JAPANESE

2–6 Ingram Street, Merchant City (Map 7: D2, 13) 0141 553 4060, sapporo. co.uk/restaurant-glasgow | £16.95 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

‘One, two, open your mouth’ shouts the chef as a fried potato goes flying from his spatula towards your head. Everyone around erupts in cheers as it miraculously lands in your mouth. This type of hammed-up teppanyaki cooking takes place every single night at Sapporo, along with plenty of spinning of instruments and the odd burst of flames flaring up from the grill. With hordes of punters crowded round the restaurant’s sizzling teppan bars, there’s no denying Sapporo’s fun, buzzy atmosphere. There’s a vast array of sushi, including a Glasgow roll (no, not filled with chips and cheese, rather a smoked haddock and asparagus tempura) and some warm appetisers

Old Salty’s (page 152): Finnieston fryer with quality suppers in probably the coolest chippy in town The List Eating & Drinking Guide 151

FISH

list.co.uk

GLASGOW

cake and a dollop of sweet double cream is worth popping in for alone. + Fresh fish and changing specials every day - Too tight and bright for some

The Finnieston 1125 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 30) 0141 222 2884, thefinniestonbar. com | £25 (lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Over the last couple of years Finnieston has been transformed into a buzzing hub of restaurants and bars, rivalling the cool hangouts of Byres Road and Ashton Lane. The Finnieston, a gin cocktail bar and seafood restaurant, fits in well with the area’s new image. The bar is an imposing and impressive structure, fashioned from dark polished wood and lined with comfy bar stools – ideal for perusing the 60-plus gins on offer. After an apéritif, begin with hot-smoked Troon rainbow trout – earthy fish and crisp skin are nicely complemented with a sweet beetroot sauce and creamy celeriac remoulade. Elsewhere expect a few meaty mains such as steak, rabbit and duck to sit alongside hake, lemon sole and monkfish, or perhaps a panfried salmon fillet drenched in garlic butter, which can be more greasy than flavoursome, although the same cannot be said of their hand-cut chips which are up there with the best. On a mild day, seek out the hidden beer garden to enjoy a little al fresco libation. + An enitre night out under one roof - More attention needed to accompanying sauces

4 The Fish People Café 350 Scotland Street, Southside (Map 8: D1, off) 0141 429 8787, thefishpeoplecafe.co.uk | £21 (lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Café is a loose term – a stunning marble bar, sparkling glassware and black clothed waiting staff suggest far more than the name implies. Yes, the location is in the middle of nowhere and a subway, taxi or designated driver is a must but the food is so good it simply does not matter. Regardless of the evening, booking is essential as fish-lovers pack in to sample the changing menu and daily specials on offer. Their fish stew is a must – chunky nuggets of cod, salmon, prawns, mussels and clams engulfed in sweet tomato sauce with a kick of Pernod. On the side, creamy garlic and saffron mayonnaise accompanies with crisp croutons and mature Gruyère which adds layer upon layer of taste and texture. Another stand-out dish arrives in the form of whole Anglesey sea bass, rubbed in tandoor spices then baked with curry oil and lemon, the flavour combinations are simple yet the execution of the fish is outstanding. Prices are more than reasonable as are the wines. All of these factors combine to make this restaurant one of the best in its category. + Every dish is better than the last - A more inspiring bread basket would be nice

Gamba 225a West George Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 53) 0141 572 0899, gamba. co.uk | £18 (set lunch) / £32 (dinner)

Over the last 15 years, Gamba has sat at the top of the pile as one of best places to eat fish in town. The basement dining space is bathed in neutral tones with an abundance of seafood artwork adorning the walls. Soft jazz plays in the background while waiting staff dressed in formal attire provide a more relaxed and chatty service than their uniform would suggest. To start, amuse-bouches may come in the form of a small, crumbly pastry case, filled with a tartare of salmon, sprinkled with 152 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery: exceptional dining at one of Glasgow’s most venerable restaurants

sesame seeds – setting the tone for the meal as classic flavours rub shoulders with more Asian-inspired offerings to make an interesting and varied menu. A 1970s favourite, prawn cocktail, is given a new lease of life with king prawns, crayfish and hints of lobster bound in a light creamy seafood sauce laced with a wicked kick of chilli jam and a generous punch of lime, a dollop of Avruga caviar sits on top adding seasoning with a touch of luxury. Elsewhere expect sea bream, king scallops and monkfish all with Far Eastern twists. A few classics remain in their purest form, try lemon sole meunière – cooked on the bone and dripping in nutty brown butter sauce, simply delicious. + On-point cooking using the best ingredients - Bring a full wallet, quailty has a high price tag

4 Gandolfi Fish 84 Albion Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 17) 0141 552 9475, cafegandolfi.com | £14.95 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

The small but perfectly formed Gandolfi empire again impresses with their dedicated fish outfit. Black, white and chrome blend together giving a sleek upmarket feel to the open-plan space, and the full-length windows allow for some Merchant City people-watching – or hop up on a high stool and sit at the bar with a drink and something from the shellfish section of the menu, perhaps freshly caught langoustines or lobster – both served natural or with a dollop of moreish garlic butter – complimentary warm bread makes moping up the juices a joy. The rest of the menu will not disappoint, whether it be a comforting fish pie, a light salmon Wellington with

crisp filo pastry, or restaurant favourite monkfish and prawn scampi – crisp breading yields to large, soft nuggets of fish, the accompanying coleslaw with purple cabbage and homemade mayonnaise is a delight in both flavour and texture. Keep space for a deeply satisfying chocolate truffle torte with Chantilly cream and dark chocolate sauce – rich, decadent and utterly delicious. + Great food, fantastic service - Going home!

Mussel Inn 157 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: D4, 77) 0141 572 1405, mussel-inn.com | £23 (lunch) / £23 (dinner)

As the name would suggest, this vibrant and upbeat restaurant is all about the mussels. They may not always be the largest specimens but they are Scottish, fresh and served in kilo or half-kilo pots with an array of sauces that include a simple shallot and white wine through to the Mediterranean flavours of roasted red pepper and basil pesto. Shellfish pasta, a staple on the Glasgow menu, is consistently a satisfying choice – al dente fettuccine is combined with an appealing mix of mussels, prawns, queen scallops and crayfish tails bound in robust yet creamy shellfish bisque. The large open space, with bare wooden tables and matching chairs may feel more like a café with laid-back service, while noise levels can reach fever pitch at busy times, but there are sophisticated dishes to be enjoyed. Try the hot seafood platter, impressive with king and queen scallops, tiger prawns and mussels precisely cooked, poached in a rich, silky seafood sauce, topped with a grilled sea bass fillet, the skin blisteringly crisp. Savour all dishes with complimentary warm, soft

bread that makes mopping up leftover juices a joy. + Lots more to enjoy than just mussels - Window seats are drafty

Old Salty’s 1126 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 25) 0141 357 5677, oldsaltys.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

At first glance Old Salty’s looks like another funky bar/restaurant to add to the plethora of similar hang-outs popping up in Finnieston, but it’s actually a traditional chippy. Exposed brick with dark wood furnishings dominate while stained-glass and chalkboard menus add to the traditional feel. The menu is impressive with starters such as crispy calamari or curried scallops. Hake, haddock and cod make up the staple fish offerings along with old-school suppers like black pudding, sausage or haggis. Whatever you try, the batter is delicious – so crisp it shatters like the top of a crème brûlée. Pies are good, too, macaroni or chicken curry being particularly tasty – try with a side of proper thick bread and butter, onion rings or good old chips. Takeaway is also available, as is breakfast for early risers from 7am. + Probably the best chippy in Glasgow - Chips could be crispier

Rock Lobster Bar & Grill 1/4 Virginia Court, Merchant City (Map 7: A2, 2) 0141 553 2326, rocklobsterglagow. co.uk | £14 (lunch) / £22 (dinner)

A funky little bistro combining food with rock ’n’ roll music and memorabilia. The owner and his team offer a relaxed yet upbeat vibe hidden within Virginia court. Pictures of music icons hang from the wall while the retro plastic seating adds to the feel of a 1950s diner. Menu

FISH

In association with

wise, fish and meat eaters are equally catered for. King prawns are fat, fresh and pink, though slightly lost under a super sweet chilli and coriander sauce, while a chilli bean steak is deftly cooked. Try the pan-seared scallops with lobster and shellfish sauce â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a hefty portion of wonderfully fresh fish, the sauce to accompany is creamy and delicate with a good scattering of herbs that bring out the flavours of the sea. As would be expected, lobster is a main player, and many diners pop in for the daily caught, freshly cooked sweet meat, simply grilled with garlic butter and served with hand-cut chips â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a temptation to this secretive spot. + Fab fish in stylish surroundings - Meat dishes need work

Rogano 11 Exchange Place, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 109) 0141 248 4055, roganoglasgow. com | ÂŁ16.50 (set lunch) / ÂŁ30 (dinner)

You would be hard pushed to find many Glaswegians who have never heard of Rogano, one of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest institutions. Enter under the neon lobster signage and step into a bygone era. The impressive art deco interior dates from 1935, when the restaurant was fitted in the same style as the Cunard liner, The Queen Mary. Regularly appearing in many Glasgow guides across the world, diners tend to include an eclectic mix of ladies who lunch, romantic couples and tourists enjoying the novelty experience. Service is formal as befits the surroundings â&#x20AC;&#x201C; white linen-draped tables and sparkling glassware add the final touch. Both fish and meat dishes are well represented across the menu. Expect to taste super-fresh oysters, sweet and succulent lobster and langoustine, along with plenty of turf-based dishes from goose to pheasant and steak. The start of the meal is the most impressive with two amuse-bouches served â&#x20AC;&#x201C; one may be a cappuccino cup filled with moreish mushroom and truffle soup, the other a dainty pastry case topped with rich foie gras mousse. A selection of warm bread is offered while pondering the menu and soaking up the utterly unique atmosphere. + A unique dining experience that you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find anywhere else in the city - Ă&#x20AC; la carte can be expensive

Simply Fish 111 Cleveden Road, West End (Map 9A, A1, off) 0141 334 0111, simplyfishglasgow.com | Closed Mon | ÂŁ7.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ22 (dinner)

Having changed from successful neighbourhood Italian La Famiglia to a seafood restaurant this year, Simply Fish is attracting an appreciative following thanks to chef-owner Nico Simeoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s affinity with seafood, for he has won respectable accolades early in his young career. Not much has changed inside this cosy bistro, secreted amid a humdrum block of local shops â&#x20AC;&#x201C; dark browns, leather seating and mirror-lined walls remain. Cullen skink, a fishy staple, is rich and creamy though the promised haddock chunks are a little sparse. An accomplished smoked mackerel mille feuille layers crisp puff pastry and zesty smoked mackerel pĂ˘tĂŠ â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a light tomato, chervil and spring onion vinaigrette cuts through the richness to cleanse the palate. Expect seabass, cod and bouillabaisse for main course, the latter is full of mussels, prawn and crab flavoured with the herbs and spices of Provence â&#x20AC;&#x201C; saffron garlic mayo accompanies giving the necessary kick to the stew, while thick crusty bread helps mop up the residual juices. An excellent pre-theatre menu at ÂŁ7.95 ensures tables tick over all week long. + Great value pre-theatre - Occasional underseasoning

4 HITLIST

FISH 4 Crabshakk Yes itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cramped, yes itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s noisy but the quality of the dishes coming out of the kitchen means that you simply donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t care.

Local Seafood Restaurant

4 The Fish People CafĂŠ Simple dishes that showcase the fantastic seafood from their own fishmongers. You canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t beat this place.

4 Gandolfi Fish Slick surroundings with an interesting and varied menu coupled with incredible service ensure this restaurant is one of the best in Glasgow.

4 Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery High-end dining together with old-world glamour cements this restaurant at the top of any list when choosing a special occasion venue.

Two Fat Ladies

Passionate about Seafood

Daily menu of fresh scottish seafood Gin Cocktail Bar South Facing Champagne Garden

61-65 RoseStreet Street 157 Hope Edinburgh EH2 2NH Glasgow G2 2UQ Reservations 0141 0131 572 225 1405 5979 Reservations

Award winning Cocktails Local Beers and Ales

157 Hope 61-65 RoseStreet Street Glasgow G2 Edinburgh EH22UQ 2NH Reservations Reservations 0141 0131 572 225 1405 5979

1125 Argyle Street G3 8ND 0141 2222 884 info@theďŹ nniestonbar.com

www.mussel-inn.com

88 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 19) 0141 339 1944, twofatladiesrestaurant.com | ÂŁ14.50 (set lunch) / ÂŁ24 (dinner)

The Two Fat Ladies are no stranger to our Hitlist and are well known around Glasgow for serving top quality fresh seafood. The original location, with a small entrance almost hidden away, continues to live up to their reputation. Elbow room is tight but this does nothing to hinder the youthful team as they weave in and out of tables filling wine glasses and offering convivial chat. Cullen skink, fishcakes and mussels in varying Asian broths regularly appear in the starter section or perhaps try the mini fish pie; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surprisingly light, full of prawns, cod and salmon all snuggled under a bold crunchy blue-cheese crust. A couple of meaty mains feature beside the standard fishy offerings of salmon, coley and plaice. Or enjoy a combination of both â&#x20AC;&#x201C; fat scallops, dotted between cubes of mild Stornoway black pudding, the accompanying crab mornay sauce is bold coral in colour yet delicate in flavour and rounds the dish nicely. Finish with a delicious Baileys panacotta â&#x20AC;&#x201C; just the right amount of wobbly set custard, coated in a rich white chocolate sauce served with a crunchy pistachio biscotti. + Cosy romantic restaurant with lots to enjoy on the menu - Farmed salmon can be a bit flabby

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4 Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery 652 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: G3, off) 0141 221 8188, twofatladiesrestaurant.com | ÂŁ16.95 (set lunch) / ÂŁ32 (dinner)

Taken over by the Two Fat Ladies chain seven years ago, the Buttery has a distinguished past from its early beginnings as the Shandon Belles pub, through to the several finedining restaurants it has been since. Inside, dark leather, wood and marble

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dominate the bar area – reminiscent of an exclusive gentleman’s club. Walk through to the restaurant and find white linen tableclothes, tartan carpets and an abundance of china decorating the walls. Service is formal as befits the surroundings while the menu nods to quality fish and meat produce. Start with light homemade ravioli filled with rich spicy Italian sausage – the gutsy filling balanced by a sweet red pepper cream. Mains may consist of whole lemon sole, king scallops or perhaps a loin of pork with Welsh rarebit, which marries deep savoury flavours of pork, mustard and cheese precisely, bold Madeira sauce adds the necessary sweetness to really elevate the dish. Finish with a toffee banana crêpe, bitter chocolate pot or simply a puro fair trade coffee with petits fours – expect tasty little morsels of macaroon, chocolate fudge, shortbread and tablet. A special dining experience from start to finish. + Dining here always feels like a special occasion - Glaring spotlights affect several tables

fillet, blue cheese, celery and pine nut salsa challenges the palate – the bream is deftly presented though the cheese has the potential to overpower the more delicate flavours in the dish. Mains have a nearly equal split between fish and meat – Gressingham duck breast arrives pink, soft and juicy – bacon lardons alight the tastebuds with salty nuggets of flavour, the roast shallot sauce adding sweetness to the finish. No trip to any of the fat ladies would be complete without trying the Two Fats grand dessert – a huge platter of all the sweet treats available on the night – which may include a dark orange tart, apple and blackberry crumble, Irish cream panacotta and sticky toffee pudding, all homemade, all delicious. + Two Fats grand dessert – fantastic at all three outfits - Pricey wine list

Urban Bar & Brasserie 23–25 St Vincent Place, City Centre See Bistros & Brasseries

FRENCH Ten years ago there were more than a dozen restaurants in Glasgow identifying themselves as ‘French’. Now there are only five in this section, and most of these are only nominally Gallic. Perhaps, with the French approach to seasonality now the norm in high-end Scottish restaurants and moules marinières on the menu of even modest local pubs, ‘French’ just isn’t different enough for Glaswegian diners anymore. It’s a shame, because our Auld Ally across the Channel still knows how to cook, serve and eat in style – and a little more of that style would be welcome over here. Reviewer: Martin Cross

dishes tend to the simple; steak frîtes, rabbit in a creamy mustard sauce, sea bass cooked en papillote, snails with garlic butter. There’s nothing to hide behind with straightforward classics like these, and chef Andrew Stott handles his excellent raw materials with a sure hand. The lunch menu features a particularly appealing selection of tartines – things on toast – including pâté, ratatouille and ham – which come with sautéed potatoes and either soup or a salad for around eight pounds. There’s also a prix fixe menu (both lunch and pre-theatre) of two courses and a glass of wine for £13.95. With French co-owner Richard Dupupet in charge of front-of-house and regular Frenchthemed entertainment (a tribute to Edith Piaf by Christine Bovill, for example), Bistro Beaumartin is currently the most convincing Gallic experience on Glasgow’s restaurant scene. (See also Richard Dupupet’s Table Talk on page 138.) + Delicious sourdough bread - Downstairs area could be smarter

4 Le Bistro Beaumartin Two Fat Ladies in the City

ONLINE LISTINGS

118a Blythswood Street, City Centre (Map 6: C3, 46) 0141 847 0088, twofatladiesrestaurant.com | £16 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps and links, go to

The location of the Two Fat Ladies city centre branch makes a natural choice for business lunches, while the evening brings a more relaxed and informal atmosphere. Twinkling fairy lights illuminate the entrance, while inside, mirrors do their job of expanding the long narrow space, with a couple of booths at the rear allowing for a more intimate experience. To begin, an interesting combination of sea bream

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161 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: D4, 78) 0141 226 4442, lebistrobeaumartin.co.uk | Closed Sun/ Mon | £13.95 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

In France a bistro is generally less formal than a restaurant, and here at Beaumartin the relaxed, neighbourhood feel of the Parisian model translates into mismatched tables and chairs, a wood-burning stove and some comfy old leather armchairs for relaxing with a digestif. In authentic bistro style,

La Bonne Auberge 161 West Nile Street, City Centre (Map 6: F2, 32) 0141 352 8310, labonneauberge.co.uk | £16.95 (set lunch) / £26 (dinner)

La Bonne Auberge enjoys an enviable location close to several theatres, cinemas and the Royal Concert Hall, so it’s often busy with locals on their way to a show as well as guests from the Holiday Inn of which it forms a part. Prix fixe and pre-theatre are

Le Bistro Beaumartin Glasgow’s Authentic French Bistro

Monday onday a to Saturday a Set lunch, steak frites lunch, pre theatre , A la Carte menus and private dining available Check out our website for events and our bi-monthly, dinner and show with Christine Bovill's PIAF

0141 2264442 lebistrobeaumartin@gmx.co.uk lebistrobeaumartin.co.uk

& /

Le Bistro Beaumartin: experience a little Gallic flair and flavours at this city centre bistro 154 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

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4 HITLIST

main courses, an evening here is likely to remain a rare treat for most of us, but a pre-theatre offers two courses of equally fine-dining for under twenty quid. + Elegant, well thought-out dishes - Central London prices in Glasgow

Hotel du Vin Bistro 1 Devonshire Gardens, West End See Scottish

Malmaison 278 West George Street, City Centre (Map 6: B3, 51) 0141 572 1000, malmaison.com | £15.95 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

FRENCH 4 Le Bistro Beaumartin The nearest thing to a proper French bistro experience in town. Good value, well-cooked classics with a certain je ne sais quoi.

4 Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or The food here is some of the best in Glasgow regardless of category, with chef Brian Maule applying a classic French approach to peerless Scottish produce.

naturally important here, and the à la carte helpfully declares that if you’re in a hurry, you should let the staff know so they can ensure you’re served in time. Service is efficient and professional anyway – although if you do want to linger there’s an excellent wine list, together with a fairly comprehensive choice of single malt whiskies. The French theme doesn’t run particularly deep; there’s choucroute and onion soup on the menu, but there’s also a burger, fried haddock, and a haggis starter. Steaks and other simple grilled and panfried dishes, including duck breast and salmon fillet, are handled with precision and presented nicely. Prices are quite high, but a prix fixe is available at all times. + Excellent service - Chain hotel atmosphere

4 Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or 176 West Regent Street, City Centre (Map 6: C3, 49) 0141 248 3801, brianmaule.com | Closed Sun | £18.95 (set lunch) / £35 (dinner)

Glasgow doesn’t currently have a Michelin-starred restaurant, but Chardon d’Or delivers an experience that’s pretty close. Chef Brian Maule spent eleven years with Michel Roux Jr at Le Gavroche, and his experience shows in elegant, precisely constructed dishes. A starter of roast red mullet with creamed leek and tempura anchovies combines flavours and textures to great effect, as does cod with truffle purée and cauliflower-cheese beignet. Indeed fish is a strong point on an à la carte menu that also features some newly fashionable cuts of meat like beef cheeks, here braised until melting and served with excellent dauphinoise potatoes and jerusalem artichokes. Vegetarians get their very own menu, too, with dishes just as interesting as the carnivorous options. Service is formal without being too stuffy, and while the location ensures a high proportion of expense account customers, the ‘Golden Thistle’ would make a good choice for a special date. At around £26 for most

The Glasgow branch of the Malmaison hotel chain occupies a striking former church in the Georgian Greek-revival style, but downstairs in the vaulted, richly panelled crypt there’s a fairly convincing facsimile of a Parisian brasserie. Polished wood and seasoned leather create a comfortable, clubby atmosphere, while several booths and nooks feel particularly French – and conducive to discrete liaisons, whether for business or pleasure. The food owes less to Gallic tradition than the décor, however, with international standards like burgers, chicken tikka masala and a smoked haddock fishcake sharing menu space with steak frîtes and lamb forestière. Chicken ‘lollipops’ make a fun and rather generous starter, and calf’s liver with mash is a comforting, unfussy plateful. At the quiet end of West George Street and away from most of the city’s action, the restaurant seems to depend largely on hotel residents, at least in the evening. A generous and fairly priced Sunday lunch offering shows some effort to pull in locals. Great to see around 30 different wines available by the glass. + A comfortable interior to encourage lingering - A shortage of stand-out dishes

Restaurant at Blythswood Square 11 Blythswood Square, City Centre See Scottish

La Vallée Blanche 360 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: D1, 49) 0141 334 3333, lavalleeblanche.com | Closed Mon | £12.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

A first-floor location above Fopp Records makes La Vallée Blanche an easy place to miss, and as you climb the unassuming staircase from the street it’s quite a surprise to find a big, busy dining room, panelled in roughhewn timber to resemble a ski lodge and lit with candles and fairy lights for a cosy, rather romantic effect. The Alpine theme extends to a menu which straddles the Franco-Italian border, the steak frîtes rubbing shoulders with osso bucco and risotto. Main courses are oddly inconsistent in generosity – a fillet of halibut on a bed of puy lentils is faultless but tiny, while fresh fettuccine is a seriously hefty plateful, the ragoût of venison coming in the form of large chunks rather than the expected mincebased sauce. A smartly turned-out, polyglot waiting team serve in pairs – in the formal French style – and details like complimentary canapés add to a sense of occasion. With a well-priced lunch and pre-theatre menu, La Vallée Blanche sees a good proportion of its business in the early evening. There’s also a very impressive all-French wine list, and some excellent choices by the glass. + Excellent wine list, great choice by the glass - Inconsistent main courses

INDIAN Glasgow’s love affair with the food of the Indian subcontinent is as vibrant and passionate as ever. The buffet remains a stalwart of Indian restaurant dining but look out, too, for ‘desi’ dishes giving diners a chance to sample more authentic, homestyle cooking. In many cases the option of tapas portions or a traditional mixed thali allows for a greater range of choice without expense. And while the cuisines of North and South India are well represented across the city, there’s also a thriving fusion scene bringing Indian flair to traditionally Scottish ingredients. Trends to watch out for include street food and a focus on specifically regional dishes. Reviewers: Jane Allan, Bronwen Livingstone, Colette Magee

Akbar’s 573–581 Sauchiehall Street, West End (Map 9B: F2, 46) 0141 222 2258, akbars. co.uk | £14 (dinner)

From the huge crystal chandeliers and neon pink highlights in the upscale dining room, to the ‘King of Curry’ strapline on the menu, there’s nothing understated about Akbar’s. The Charing Cross restaurant is the sole Scottish outpost of a Bradford-based chain, and the menu reflects its origins – many Glasgow standards are absent, replaced, in part, by a large balti section. A starter of chicken liver tikka arrives sizzling hot and pleases with its coriander-ginger-garlic spicing and toothsome texture. Succulent king prawns are fiery with chilli, and a main of lamb and ginger balti carries real depth of flavour, with zingy notes from the generous application of shredded ginger. Akbar’s naan breads are a talking point in themselves – larger than average and served impaled on a tall metal stand. Spiced-up pasta dishes satisfy Western tastes, while true authenticity lurks in a small section of Pindi-style dishes, featuring the likes of brains and sweetbreads. A better-than-average selection of desserts rounds out the menu, including the moreish Ferrero Rocher cheesecake and a sweet and salty peanut butter chocolate stack, served with delicate coconut ice-cream. + Incredible hanging naans - Glitzy dining room feels a bit soulless

Ashoka • 19 Ashton Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 36) 0141 337 1115, ashokarestaurants. com | £7.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner) • The Quay, Springfield Quay, Southside (Map 8: D1, off) 0141 429 4492, harlequinrestaurants.com | £7.95 (set lunch) / £14.50 (dinner) • 9 Kirk Road, Bearsden (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 570 0075, harlequinrestaurants. com | • 268 Clarkston Road, Southside (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 637 0711, ashokasouthside. info | £17 (dinner) • 1284 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 13) 0141 339 3371, ashokarestaurants.com | £14.50 (dinner)

There is a carefully selected mix of contemporary and classical Indian music on the stereo but it is barely audible, so loud is the buzz generated in a successful restaurant. Ashoka Ashton Lane, at the heart of the West End dining scene, has a deservedly high reputation for individually crafted curries, dosai and tandoori and a superlative range of

4 HITLIST

INDIAN 4 Babu Bombay Street Kitchen A quirky and unique presence in the City Centre and at various pop-ups and markets, serving delicious Indian street food and snacks

4 Charcoals Complex and fresh flavours abound at this curryhouse, with excellent service and dietary considerations to match.

4 Dakhin The beguiling flavours of Southern India continue to draw well-heeled diners to this classy Candleriggs institution.

4 The Den at Dining In with Mother India A cosy member of the famed curryhouse group, serving delicious deli-style dishes at goodvalue prices.

4 The Dhabba North Indian specialties served up in a classy and contemporary upmarket canteen in the Merchant City.

4 The Glasgow Curry Shop Ashton Lane is the special setting for this member of the Mother India group, showcasing quality curries and a slice of local spice history.

4 Masala Twist Tikka and Tapas Bar Mince and tatties or aloo keema? Either way, it’s Indian food with a Scottish twist, in an atmospheric restaurant near the Theatre Royal and Pavilion.

4 Mother India’s Café The Mother India brand is a good indicator of quality and this is no exception – expect elegant and inventive cooking in a relaxed setting.

sides, rices, breads and chutneys. The menu offers all the favourites without being overwhelming and there is an all day meal deal and a quick thali lunch at very reasonable prices. Inevitably some of the more tantalising dishes attract a surcharge such as the Bengali king prawn cooked in a green chilli, ginger, onion, turmeric cardamom and coconut sauce, which complements the golf ball-sized king prawns to perfection. The bhindi dopiaza, a vegetarian dish of okra and onions tossed with garlic and ginger, is fresh and plentiful and comes as a side or a main. The drinks list includes Lal Toofan on tap – a Mumbai brewed light and spicy lager offering a hint of rice to the palate. The four other restaurants sharing the Ashoka name are strategically positioned across Glasgow in Clarkston, Bearsden, at the Clydeside cine complex and close to the burgeoning Finnieston gastro-pub and restaurant scene. These are franchises and each manager has The List Eating & Drinking Guide 155

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the remit to maintain traditions and reputation while also developing each restaurant as a unique venue. The menus and deals vary to cater for the local clientele as indeed do some prices. The Harlequin Group which manages all the Ashoka restaurants has its own cook school as well as monitoring standards and consistency and maintaining the informative websites. + Fresh, high-quality ingredients in all dishes - Rather lengthy gap between being seated and drinks order

Assam’s 57 West Regent Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 59) 0141 331 1980, assams.co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

A spacious restaurant that offers goodvalue food in a more upmarket setting than the prices would suggest, Assam’s is conveniently located for office workers and shoppers to take advantage of its many special offers. It’s decorated in restful neutrals with varied textures of brown contrasting with the crisp white tablecloths and silver settings, and a partitioned mezzanine which looks out on the street below. The menu is full of traditional North Indian favourites, familiar to any curry-lover. It may be a safe, steadfast menu but it is delivered via a number of formats to cater to all appetites – there’s a set lunch, à la carte, banquet menus for four or more diners, daily specials, tapas-sized plates, and a buffet. Highlights include naans the size of a duvet but with a light, crispy texture, and homemade mango chutney with a twist of cinnamon. + Varied and good value - Butter chicken has lots of chicken but little flavour

4 Babu Bombay Street Kitchen 186 West Regent Street, City Centre (Map 6: C3, 48) 0141 204 4042, babukitchen.com | Closed Sun | £5.50 (set lunch)

This unique venue manages to hit every sweet spot going. It offers fresh, oil-free, innovative, tasty vegan, vegetarian and meaty food in the form of curries, rotis and other spicy snack treats. The space is relaxed, with simple seating areas and a quirky design sense. Babu Kitchen also has a strong presence on the city’s burgeoning pop-up and street food scene, and will be found at the Commonwealth Games and the Glasgow Mela as well as at farmer’s markets. Traditional tiffin lunchboxes and take-home curries for hungry working couples are also on offer. Frankie goes to Bollywood is an eggdipped and fried chapatti stuffed with one of the curries of the day and served with salad. It should not be compared to a sandwich – it’s too delicious. Breakfast, brunch, lunch and early dinner options are all on offer and a cup of aromatic chai or cardomon tea with a moist cardamom brownie are a sweet treat. And, of course, the Morton’s roll as a substitute for a traditional pau is a stroke of fusion genius. Drop in for guaranteed pleasure and fun. + An innovative menu where everything including the graphics offers an unusual twist - Doesn’t have a toilet but staff one can be used on request

Balbir’s 7 Church Street, West End (Map 9A: B3, 20) 0141 339 7711, balbirsrestaurants. co.uk | £21 (dinner)

Dining at Balbir’s is a sumptuous experience. The large elegantly designed space creates an immediate sense of wellbeing while the interesting, reasonably priced wine list and well-stocked bar 156 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Babu Bombay Street Kitchen: innovative Indian street food close to Blythswood Square

ensure that all tastes are catered for. Negotiating the menu can be complex and diners who sidestep the excellentvalue banquet-style tasting menus may find themselves with an unexpectedly large bill. However, signature dishes such as butter chicken and paneer palak are indeed uniquely crafted. The outstanding starter of mussels malabar in a garlic, mustard and tamarind infused broth has been devised and tested by Balbir himself who after 40 years developing the internationally renowned Glasgow curryhouse scene continues to instigate new recipes and directions. Although the menu takes an eclectic approach to the cuisine of the subcontinent, a distinct inclination to Goan and South Indian is discernible in the range of unique fish dishes on offer. Fish is delivered fresh every day by the unbeatable MacCallum’s of Troon, and a Bengali machi of monkfish simmered in yogurt with mustard, tomato and green chilli washed down with a delicately spiced St Mungo’s ale provide a satisfying fusion of the best of Scotland and India. + Elegant setting - A rather bland Jaipuri jeera

Banana Leaf • 76B Old Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9B: B1, 7) 0141 334 4445, bananaleaf-glasgow.co.uk | £7/£7.50/£8 (set lunch) / £7.50 (dinner) • 105 Albert Drive, Southside (Map 8: D1, off) 0141 423 9692, thebananaleaf.co.uk | £3.99 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

The food of Tamil Nadu with its intriguing sauces and eye-candy dosai, idly and vada is perennially seductive. The outsize lamb dosa is a lentil pancake with a spicy lamb filling, tamarindinfused sauce and two delicious chutneys one coconut and one tomato and chilli. Indeed this principally vegetarian establishment is noteworthy for its skill with non-vegetarian dishes. The chicken korma is a delightful discovery – its mild yet aromatic yogurt-based sauce supplements the accompanying basmati rice and crispy paratha to create a goodvalue meal. As befits the cuisine of South India, the range of vegetarian meals on

offer here is unparalleled on the Glasgow curry scene with the cabbage fogath demonstrating that the skilled addition of Indian herbs, spices and oils can totally transform the humble brassica. Because much of the food uses rice and lentils as a base, this restaurant is excellent for those with dietary intolerances. The transition from takeaway to café or restaurant has its challenges and although the food in the Banana Leaf is undoubtedly taste-bud tantalising, the dining experience in a cramped and poorly laid out space is not for everyone. + Wondrous dosai - Slapdash service and uninviting setting at West End branch

Café India 29 Albion Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 31) 0141 552 5115, cafeindiaglasgow. com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Since it opened in 1987 Café India has had mixed fortunes, thriving in Charing Cross before it burned down, moved across town and suffered a revolving ‘under new management’ sign over the door. In October the original owner bought it back so technically it’s now under old management. This latest change leaves the premises unaltered, a thoughtfully laid-out grid of richly upholstered private booths and square tables set comfortably apart. Outside catering and the karaoke room in the basement are worth a mention to party planners, but the main draw is confidently prepared classics. A mixed tandoori platter for two offers excellent value to start at £7.95, with plenty of variety and doubles of each item to prevent fights over the last piece of tender chicken chaat. There’s a western corner of the menu, so while South Indian garlic chilli chicken has complex spicing and tastes lively and fresh with an underlying note of sweet and sour, if this is too much flavour for one plate, they’ll do you fish and chips instead. + Light, crispy and dessert sweet Peshwari naan - Menu omits to mention that all curries can be ordered as veggie version

4 Charcoals 26A Renfield Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 74) 0141 221 9251, charcoals.co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

The depth and complexity of flavours of a Charcoals curry result from the judicious use of freshly ground spices and herbs. Lamb desi served on the bone comes in a rich and abundant sauce while, by contrast, chicken saag is served in a yogurt sauce with fresh spinach, coriander and curry leaves. The formica tables are closely packed, only the large linen napkins provide a nod to restaurant style. Starters such as chicken with green herbs and lightly spiced pakora in a tempura-style batter are delightful although the drinks list is standard. Popular and well placed in the City Centre there can often be queues, and on busy nights it is essential to book although the newly opened nearby Charcoals Café is available for overflow. The carefully honed service style of manager Ali and his young staff maintain his award-winning standards. Of particular note is the gluten-free character of all the food except the naan, even the chapattis are made from maize flour. Particular efforts are made to cater for special dietary needs and plans are afoot to enhance the sweet menu with fruit platters and sweet rice dishes. + Carefully spiced and individually prepared dishes - Restaurant can be noisy and crowded

Charcoals Café 74 Trongate, Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 35) 0141 258 6482, charcoalscafe.co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Friendly and dynamic with food of the same fantastic quality as its sister restaurant on Renfield Street, Charcoals Café more than justifies a special trek down to Trongate. It opened in August 2013 and serves up North Indian cooking that’s delicate and light while demonstrating balanced layers of spicing, with many dishes available in tapas-style portions. You’d be challenged to find something on the wide-ranging menu that didn’t appeal – the tandoori offerings alone are vast, including salmon, mango

INDIAN

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chicken and even paneer tikka. A starter of Lahori fish pakora is fried in a batter that’s tempura light, tricking the palate into thinking it’s as much a healthy choice as the tandoor-cooked masala poppadoms. Their signature ‘chicken tikka Charcoals’ is great to share as there are two pieces of chicken marinated in each of three spice combinations – mulai tikka with black pepper, cinnamon and mint; mango tikka with a note of cloves; and hara kebab stained green with mint, coriander and crushed chillis – all sizzling on a bed of onions with sauce on the side. + Charming, good-looking and ever so tasty - Lights too bright for date night

Chillies West End 176–182 Woodlands Road, West End (Map 9A: G3, 89) 0141 331 0494, chillieswestend.com | £5.50 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

With its zero-corkage BYOB policy, relaxed ambience and warmly contemporary décor, Chillies couldn’t be better located than the Woodlands student heartland. And Oddbins is round the corner. They do takeaway shop staples like kebabs, pizzas and burgers, but the menu is mainly styled as Indian tapas, with two to three starters recommended per couple and three to four mains. This is ambitious ordering once you add rice and bread, as their curries come rich and filling. In starters, Punjabi haddock comes as a whole grilled fillet, dusted with chilli and other fragrant spices that don’t overpower the flavour of the moist, flaking fish, while brie pakora is light and fresh tasting for what is essentially a piece of deep-fried cheese. It’s a lengthy menu with plenty of choice and some unusual items – like goat’s cheese naan – that are always more tempting to try when you’re sharing. + Great for greedy groups on a budget - Salted lassi is as salty-sour as one would expect

4 Dakhin 89 Candleriggs, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 24) 0141 553 2585, dakhin.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £22 (dinner)

Dakhin was the first South Indian restaurant in Scotland and, ten years after it opened, it still hits all the right notes when it comes to high-end Indian dining. The menu covers chicken, seafood, lamb and vegetarian choices, with regional specialities aplenty. Expect to find coconut, mustard seeds and addictively fragrant curry leaves playing key roles in many dishes. In ennai kathrikai, aubergine meets peanuts, sesame seeds and tamarind with great success, while mamsam nilgiri brings some spice to the traditional marriage of lamb and mint with the addition of coriander, coconut and slow-burning green chillis. The signature three-foot long paper dosas are a ‘wow’ accompaniment for groups, while the more restrained eater might choose pathram for a taste of three different types of pancake bread. The varied wine list is well chosen to complement the cuisine and waiters are pleased to offer recommendations. The menu uses coloured dots to indicate dishes meeting various dietary requirements (gluten-free rice flour is favoured in the South) so even the most restricted eater should find something to enjoy. + Seductive South Indian flavours - Limited vegetarian starter choices

4 The Den at Dining In with Mother India 1347 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 6) 0141 334 3815, motherindiaglasgow.co.uk | £14 (lunch)

/ £14 (dinner)

The bistro-like ambience of The Den relaxes and intrigues while the thoughtfully selective menu reassures the discerning diner that this is no mere Indian takeaway sit-in. Dishes are tantalisingly described by their ingredients. A range of fresh fish supplied by Bernard Corrigan includes haddock, hake, prawns and scallops cooked to order with inventive ingredients. Firmly fleshed and perfectly cooked, the hake with ginger and puy lentils is a triumph, while the special of king prawns with a zingy sauce of sweet whole garlic cloves, chili, onions and tomato has a memorable depth and complexity. The green herb chicken karahi with its coriander and curry leaf-infused sauce resurrects the chicken curry in a unique way. Indian breads include roti and paratha as well as naan, the deliciously flaky paratha oozing sweet white radish makes a tasty snack or starter with beer or wine from the straightforward wine list. Positioned at the confluence of Sauchiehall and Argyle streets close to the university, Kelvingrove Art Gallery and the Western Infirmary, the Den offers a sophisticated all-day snacking or dining experience for an incredibly reasonable price. Book in advance to avoid disappointment. + Amazingly good value for top-drawer fish curries - Rather limited wine and beer list

4 The Dhabba 44 Candleriggs, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 26) 0141 553 1249, thedhabba.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

A very modern curryhouse styled as an upmarket diner, The Dhabba has an atmosphere as lively as its food and the frequent weekend queues at the door. The menu is classy and authentic North Indian, specialising in dum pukht, which are slow-cooked curries with all the juices and aromas sealed under an edible lid. These take a little longer than standards like rogan josh but a bowlful of meat soft enough to cut with a fork in an intensely flavoured sauce repays the wait. If patience isn’t an option, try something from the tandoor like haryali murg tikka – chicken marinated in mint, coriander and spinach served dry with a choice of sauces (staff consultation is invaluable here). Starters include battered button mushrooms stuffed with paneer and a fragrant, nutty spice paste that offers a sophisticated vegetarian alternative to pakora. This is a destination restaurant which feels cosmopolitan and grown-up, borne out by the absence of a children’s menu – recognising the vagaries of youth, the chef asks kids what they like and cooks their food to order instead. + Part of many great Merchant City nights out - A few beers in, blokey banter can drown out all other sound

4 The Glasgow Curry Shop 29 Ashton Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 35) 0141 357 5280, weecurryshopglasgow.co.uk | £5.80 (set lunch) / £16.50 (dinner)

One of Mother India’s offspring, the small dining room’s décor pays homage to Glasgow’s proud curry heritage. Despite it’s size, the layout cleverly makes use of the space and it doesn’t feel cramped. The menu is reassuringly small and populated with quite a few unusual choices. The cuisine is not specific to one region of India, and dosas from Southern India sit side by side with lamb achari from the North. There is pakora, of course, and as well as the obligatory haggis variety, they also serve a more interesting haddock, pea and potato version. The lentil cakes are large, a little on the dry side. Mains include Malabar

cod which is not available on Mondays or Tuesdays as they pride themselves on getting fresh fish locally. It’s a generous portion, as is the Ashton Lane beef with okra, where the meat is slow-cooked and melts in the mouth. The thali selection represents a good pre-theatre deal and is a great way of experimenting with the enticing menu at this rewarding curryhouse. + Dishes out of the ordinary - Dessert uninspiring

Green Chilli Café 1293 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C2, 12) 0141 337 6378, greenchillicafe. com | Closed Mon | £8 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

It may be part of the Harlequin empire, but Green Chilli Café is forging its own identity. The red and beige décor is smart and modern, with framed Indian artefacts adding style and cultural reference points. And while the menu features several of the Ashoka stand-bys, there are plenty of uncommon choices such as dhaba gosht – a thick cinnamon-scented stew of slow-cooked lamb and potato. Vegetarians are well catered for with options including a rich and comforting dish of aubergine in buttery tomato sauce and aloo bonda, fried potato-paneer balls served with spicy tomato chutney. Home-style cooking is the order of the day, so no tandoor, no lurid tandoori options – and no naan either. However, paratha, roti and fried puffy bhatura make worthy substitutes. Most dishes are available in tapas or main-course size and many are flagged as glutenfree. Look out, too, for the good-value offers such as 3 tapas for £9.95 or the belly-busting unlimited tasting menu for £21.95. + Good value, home-style cooking - Not so home-style toilet cubicle

India Quay 181 Finnieston Street, West End (Map 9B: G3, off) 0141 221 1616, indiaquay. com | £6.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Sitting on the corner of Lancefield Quay, India Quay is a reliable choice in a part of town that’s not particularly well-provided with restaurants. Its huge wraparound windows allow a panorama that takes in the Hydro, the Clyde Arc and the lights of the riverside, while the dining room itself is bright and contemporary in feel. The menu covers much of the usual North Indian fare, with a nicely varied vegetarian selection. Machi pakora are generous chunks of pearlescent cod in a crisp, air-light batter and served with a minty yogurt dressing. Saag paneer has well-flavoured sauce with chunks of spiced fried paneer, and exhibits a good balance of texture and taste. The chef’s specials are primarily chicken variants, mostly on the mild side, and lamb or prawn can be swapped in for a supplement. While the dishes are familiar, the execution and style keeps them interesting. Serving until midnight, it’s also a popular spot with concertgoers from the nearby SECC complex and, in a nice nod to continuity, the stereo will be playing whoever’s been gigging that night. + Fantastic fish pakora - Miserly servings of rice

Indian Cottage 42 Albion Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 30) 0141 552 4754, indiancottageglasgow.com | £6.99 (set lunch) / £13 (dinner)

This recently established Trongate restaurant with adjacent takeaway showcases the award winning cooking skills of its chef owner Manoj Singh. There are no real surprises on the

menu, however traditional favourites are individually created from fresh ingredients. The chicken bhoona with its thick and plentiful spiced tomato and onion sauce or the lamb saag infused with dark and delicious spinach and mustard leaves are tasty and plentiful. Indian breads such as naan and paratha are crisp and hot from the oven and hotplate The starters are more run of the mill items with the excitingly named spinach healthy kebab looking rather like greenish brown pennies. The service is eager and efficient and the restaurant doubles as a karaoke and hen and stag party night venue which is clearly attracting an eager crowd at weekends as the prices are more than reasonable. The ambience is rather quirky especially the entrance passage which takes you back to to 80s India however the main dining area lacks atmosphere when there are only a few diners. + Individually crafted, good-value mains - A rather unique ambience

Indian Platform 1051 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: D1, off) 0141 339 5575, indianplatform.co.uk | £13 (dinner)

Nasreen Aksi is a stalwart of the Harlequin Ashoka chain and the owner of a couple of their most successful restaurants in Glasgow, to the extent that while some may haggle about the local curry king, there is few that will dispute that she is the city’s spice queen. It was some surprise then that she took over the Italian Bistro at the old railway station near Gartnavel – but little surprise that she has recently converted the

TIP/,67 FOR CURRY COURIERS • Babu Bombay Street Kitchen Terriﬁc Tifﬁn delivery for City slickers and beyond 156 • Balbir’s Venerable curryhouse covering the West End locale 156 • Banana Leaf A min. order of £15 will buy you a South Indian feast 156 • Café India Merchant City favourite offering spice to your door 156 • Chillies West End Weekend delivery for those within a three-mile radius 157 • Green Chilli Café Harlequin outlet with huge coverage across the city 157 • Kebabish Grill Locals love the grilled treats on the Southside 158 • Masala Twist Scotsinspired spice with added alcohol delivery 158 • Rawalpindi Tandoori Venerable Sauchiehall spicers that cover three miles 159 The List Eating & Drinking Guide 157

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upstairs into Indian Platform dishing up traditional North Indian cuisine. It’s a lovely building,with the added benefit of a balcony overlooking the leafy surrounds. All dishes are available as smaller tapas portions at a reduced cost, although food is good-value at £2.95 for most starters and £6.95 for a main (a tad more for king prawns). Favourites such as bhoonas, kormas, South Indian chicken, and the like are available alongside specialities such as Indian peri-peri chicken and Bengali king prawns. Only open from 5pm currently, there are plans to extend hours to lunchtime. For setting, quality and cost, it’s well worth the trek out along Great Western Road. + Smart setting - Car needed to get there for most, but lots of parking available

Kebabish Grill 323–325 Victoria Road, Southside (Map 8: D2, 10) 0141 424 1879, kebabish-grill. co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Kebabish Grill’s lime green neon sign has been a landmark on Victoria Road for almost ten years, and its enduring popularity with its primarily Asian clientele is easy to understand. On entering the cheery, well-lit restaurant you first pass a huge charcoal grill – the largest in Scotland, apparently – with chefs expertly slinging hunks of meat and fish onto the flames. Accordingly, the menu devotes a full section to grill specialities such as whole fillet of fish with a spice rub and yogurt-marinated lamb chops, and is well worth sampling. Other choices include the eponymous kebabs, traditional dishes such as lamb cooked with fennel and almonds, along with plenty of meat-on-the-bone choices and dry curries. Iced desserts are mainly bought-in, but a homemade, hot, sweet carrot halwa is an unusual and pleasant way to finish. There’s a relaxed, family atmosphere – perhaps due, in part, to the strict no-alcohol policy. Replacing the booze is a dreamy mango lassi, which provides soothing contrast to some of those fiery grill offerings. + A cut above the average, run-of-themill meat ’n’ curry sauce - View of Victoria Road, Glasgow, not Victoria Terminus, Mumbai

Koh-i-Noor 235 North Street, West End (Map 9B: G2, 52) 0141 221 1555 / 0141 204 1444, kohi-noor-glasgow.co.uk | £7.50 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

The Koh-i-Noor is Glasgow’s oldest Indian restaurant. Celebrating its 50th birthday in 2014, its longevity is testament to a formula that clearly works, and it’s something they’re very proud of – a photocollage of famous visitors is displayed on the wall as you enter, and the paper placemats detail the establishment’s history. Many regulars come for the famous Koh buffet. It’s laid out around a large stone water feature, and there is plenty of choice for meateaters and vegetarians alike. Starters include several varieties of pakora and a tangy channa chatt. The curries are, for the most part, old-school favourites such as lamb rogan josh, chicken tikka masala and bhuna. There’s usually also a desistyle staff curry in the mix and manager Waseem is happy to augment the buffet with requests from the à la carte menu. From the chef’s specials section, chicken lyallpuri is a chilli-laced concoction and proves a popular choice with those wishing to prove their mettle, while chicken tikka handi is less ferocious, but equally pleasing, and sugar-laminated rogni naan is a surprisingly good accompaniment. + Old-school Indian restaurant - Artificially coloured curries

KoolBa 109 Candleriggs, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 21) 0141 552 2777, koolba.com | Closed Mon | £9.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Two Iraqi brothers own and manage this restaurant – indeed one of them is the head chef. The service and style of KoolBa reflect the attention to detail that only deep involvement and commitment can achieve. The menu has unusual touches of Persian cuisine, which is altogether lighter and more aromatically spiced than its Indian counterpart. It is worth selecting a variety of dishes in order to undertake the spice route journey so eloquently described on the menu. It is in the sides and starters such as naan and vegetable pakora that the delicately spiced lightness best emerges.

Always a test of Indian cooking, the lamb biryani is subtly spiced, with tender lamb chunks. Dipping sauces such as mango, chilli and tomato, and yogurt and mint have an unusual lightness and depth of flavour. There is a wide-ranging and reasonably priced wine list but the unique element comes in the global beers section; there are 15 of them, all selected to complement spicy food with many unusual offerings such as the Argentinian Quilmes or Polish Zyweic. Then, to finish, a spicy Arabic coffee. + Impeccable and sensitive service - You need to dig deep in your pocket for the à la carte

Masala Twist 192–194 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C2, 37) 0141 339 3777, masalatwist. co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

It shares the same apricot colour scheme and genial atmosphere as its sister establishment and, with an additional first-floor dining room, Masala Twist can easily accommodate a crowd. And while there’s no shortage of eating establishments on Byres Road, it’s the attention to detail that keeps Masala Twist in the must-visit list. An overnight marinade and a long slow cook makes tandoori lamb chops deeply flavoured, while beautiful salmon tikka flakes at the lightest touch. A particularly pleasing element of the extensive menu is the section of regional classics – fancy a taste of Rajasthan? Consider the zyakedar hiran, a robust dish of tender venison in a thick aromatic sauce. In the mood for Maharastra? Chicken kolhapuri uses complex spicing to give its onion-garlic-tomato trinity an authentic taste. Vegetable paratha makes an ideal accompaniment, its flaky layers punctuated by slivers of different vegetables. A short dessert menu is on hand to round out the meal, or perhaps choose one of Masala Twist’s dessertinspired cocktails, such as tiramisù espresso martini or limoncello sunrise. + Unusual regional dishes - Limited wines by the glass

4 Masala Twist Tikka and Tapas Bar 261 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: E2, 35) 0141 332 6002, masalatwistscotland.

co.uk | £6.95 (buffet) (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Look past the tongue-twisting name and you’ll see this is not a novelty party bar but rather a tidy little restaurant with a lot to recommend it. A whisper of incense scents the air, the ceiling is swagged with strings of fabric birds and a small shrine sits unobtrusively between tables. The whole effect is colourful, cheerful and easy on the eye. The menu of tapas-sized dishes nods towards Scottish cuisine with ingredients such as rabbit, venison, and the famous mince and tattie curry, a chilli-warmed variation of the traditional dish. It’s also home to the (selfproclaimed) hottest curry in Scotland, but why sear your tastebuds when there are more delicate flavours to enjoy? Duck tikka enhances tender meat with a zingy spice rub and sweet mint sauce, while lamb desi is a home-style curry, its thick sauce aromatic with cinnamon. Garlic and coriander naan is well-executed: bubbly, light, and liberally doused in pungent garlicky butter and herb shreds. The diversity of choice and quality of cooking mean Masala Twist Tikka and Tapas Bar is a mouthful worth savouring. + Diverse and delicious food with a Scottish accent - Uneven staircase up to restaurant

Mother India 28 Westminster Terrace, Sauchiehall Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 29) 0141 221 1663, motherindiaglasgow.co.uk | £11.50 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

After a decade and a half, having spawned a dynasty stretching to the East Coast, the original Mother India is the Chesterfield sofa of the local curry scene – well worn and a bit battered round the edges but still a much loved and sought after piece of furniture. Each of its three floors has a distinct personality but throughout is an abundance of traditional textures, candlelight and dark wood everywhere you look – it’s panelling walls and framing windows, as well as the furniture. The menu has a more modern outlook with attention given to creating healthy options of popular dishes, although the sauces are generally rich with flavour rather than fat anyway – malai chicken tikka is merely marinated in cream, rather than swimming in it. While a ginger crab and prawn dosa starter is rather bland with barely a hint of fishy flavour, other dishes pack more punch, like the delicious lamb mussalum with ladyfingers, in which diced beetroot adds just the right note of robust earthiness to soft melting lamb in a rich spicy gravy. + A stalwart with gravitas and class - Service is well meaning but patchy on detail

4 Mother India’s Café 1355 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: C1, 5) 0141 339 9145, motherindiascafeglasgow.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

Banana Leaf (page 156): great-value South Indian cuisine on Old Dumbarton Road 158 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Mother India’s Café offers all the culinary style and finesse you’d expect from the brand in an informal setting. Classy burgundy and gold flock wallpaper nods knowingly towards Indian restaurant style of old, while dark green subway bricks are reminiscent of tenement hallways. The walls are hung with atmospheric photographs of staff, family members, suppliers and even a few loyal customers, speaking volumes about the ethos here. Dishes are offered in tapas sizes, allowing customers to mix and match from a wide choice, but the sizes are generous, so three to four dishes will easily serve two people. Chicken achari packs a zingy punch with a hefty dose of lime pickle, while channa aloo is sweet and sour with just the right amount

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of ‘give’ in the chickpeas. In addition, each day of the week is assigned a special dish – Sunday it’s roast duck, while Thursday sees haddock and lentils take the spotlight. Regardless of the day, though, the extensive and creative menu should please even the choosiest diner. + First-class cooking in informal surroundings - No bookings taken, so be prepared to wait

The New Café Salma 523 Sauchiehall Street, West End (Map 9B: G2, 49) 0141 221 7636, cafesalma. co.uk | £5.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

It’s a wonder people keep previous restaurant names, sometimes with minimal additions such as the ‘New’ bit in this reincarnation of the excellent old Café Salma. The problem is that comparison is warranted, even demanded, and there is little contest here because, besides good curries, what elevated the old place was owner Hassan – a gregarious and utterly inimitable front of houser. His absence is felt despite a makeover with ground floor kitchen moving downstairs (still staffed by some of the previous crew) to create more seating and a cosier, quieter vibe compared to the bustling kitchencafeteria of old. The Moroccan menu is slimmed to tagines and couscous, perhaps best sampled in the North African-flavoured room downstairs. Food is enjoyable if lacking an edge or USP. Specialities such as koftas and kormas are gone, though grilled lamb chops are still tremendous, mixing juicy, spicy and tandoor tinge to special effect. Plenty of classic curry mains include a potent, zingy ginger bhoona, ordered on the desi scale of preferred heat. Probably the biggest change is the availability of alcohol - you’ll need to ask (or BYOB), as if in a hushed manner, respecting the old incumbent who never let a drop through his door. Cheers, to old and New. + Lamb chops still superb - Hassan the man is gone

Punjabi Charing Cross 157–159 North Street, City Centre (Map 9B: G2, 54) 0141 221 3926, punjabicharingcross.co.uk | £5.95 (Thu/ Fri) (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The area around Charing Cross is a well-known curry hotspot, but Punjabi Charing Cross is capable of holding its own among the big boys. The menu is primarily composed of familiar North Indian standards with a selection of daily specials to add some variety and freshness. Complementary poppadums and onion chutney are a nice touch. A starter of fillet of sea bass on mashed potato uses careful spicing to enhance, not overwhelm, the delicate fish, while a chunky haggis pakora packs more of a punch. Chicken tikka malaidar is creamy and rich with a few chilli slices lurking among the spinach to add an occasional pop of heat. For a more unusual dining experience, look out for curries featuring Perthshire goat on the bone, although best to phone ahead to ensure it’s on the menu. The vibe is more neighbourhood eatery than destination dining – perhaps influenced by the distinctly pub-style décor – but for solid competent cooking and convivial dining, Punjabi Charing Cross is worth a visit. + Super sea bass - Not great for vegetarians

Rawalpindi Tandoori 321 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: B2, 16) 0141 332 4180, rawalpinditandoori.co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Turn your back on Sauchiehall Street and you could be in a good Indian restaurant

anywhere from Jakarta to Singapore to Bradford to Glasgow. A Bollywood video is screening, the service is impeccable with iced water and sparkling whitelinen napkins on the well-spaced tables. The speciality is, of course, tandoori – the salmon, marinated in lemon juice, coriander, ginger, garlic and masala spices, is succulent and plentiful and in itself worth a return visit. The curries come in a wide range of chef’s specials. The thali for one person is a real bargain offering two of the specials: a Bombay bakhra of lamb fillet and spinach with black cumin adding a surprising but welcome kick, and butter chicken, which both make for a particularly delicious combo served with basmati rice, raita and salad, proving ample for two. A tray of condiments is fresh and good value, and the dessert menu is more authentic than many sweet menus offering tropical fruit sorbets, coconut ice-cream, kulfi and, of course, gulabjamun. Drinks are of the standard variety with good Italian red, white and rosé by the glass and carafe and a well-stocked bar. The Rawalpindi offers the diner a delicious traditional treat undiluted by current fads. + Thali which allows the diner to sample two of the special curries - Some rather highly coloured sauces

The Wee Curry Shop • 7 Buccleuch Street, City Centre (Map 6: D1, 25) 0141 353 0777, weecurryshop. co.uk | £5.75 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner) • 41 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 23) 0141 339 1339 | Closed Mon | £5.75 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The Wee Curry Shops are similarly small in dimension but diverge on the décor with Byres Road looking like a kitsch 1970s living room whereas the one nestled at the foot of Garnethill is done out like a mini library, all wood panels and fake bookshelf wallpaper. They also share the same high-quality food, each with an open kitchen offering a compact menu showcasing deft ways with traditional North Indian favourites with a little inventivemess thrown in. The basics shine as much as the rest: warm fluffy, crisp-tinged naans and perfectly cooked rice, while green herb pakora is heavy and aromatic with shredded leaves, a succulent lamb karahi is satisfyingly rich, and chicken saag heady with sweet garlic aromas. They may be wee but they punch enough above their weight to take on any of the heavies in town. + Reliably enjoyable Indian cuisine - Don’t expect to just turn up and get a table

Yadgar Kebab House 148 Calder Street, Southside (Map 8: D1, off) 0141 424 3722 | £8 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

The Yadgar has remained unchanged for 20 years, serving desi-style homecooked curries to its predominantly Asian clientele in Govanhill. There is a printed menu if you care to look at it but the large fridge cabinet displays the day’s specials, so the pointing and asking option is always available. The range can look a bit fleshy – there are a lot of pieces of lamb and chicken of various cuts in various dark and pale sauces on show – but some of the best dishes are the veggie staples. These include a densely textured dhal, a spinach and potato that packs a pleasing mini-chilli punch, and the ever faithful chana. Breads on offer include homemade chapattis and for afters there’s a selection of gulab jamin and other fragrant curd sweets. Customers are welcome to sit in, but the small dining room to the side is a basic, strip-lit affair, so your sofa might be a comfier option. + Delicious meat and veg dishes - Basic interior

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ITALIAN 4 Battlefield Rest Quirky and cosy with a distinctive and confident menu, make this a popular favourite – booking advised.

4 La Brava This informal deliWith a rich heritage across Glasgow and West Scotland, it’s no wonder that the Italians have made their cuisine such a popular part of the city’s eatingout experience. While things may have been a little quiet in the section recently in the face of the rise of burger bars and street food trends, there is still plenty of flair and passion at work at this range of informal eateries, deli-diners and plusher restaurant options. Reviewers: Jennifer Armitage, Carolyn McTaggart, Suzy Mercer, Andrea Mullaney

Amarone 2 Nelson Mandela Place, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 69) 0141 333 1122, amaronerestaurant.co.uk/glasgow_ amarone | £13.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Day or night, midweek or weekend, Amarone is constantly busy. Its combination of warm service, simple but contemporary surroundings, and eclectic menus, ensures it remains popular throughout the year. Set across two levels, this large restaurant is divided into more intimate sections by a central island. One quickly gains a sense that Amarone is efficiently run, as staff buzz about, polite and cheerful. The lunch and pre-theatre menu offers good value and a reasonable range of dishes, including a number with supplements allowing diners to sample premium options without switching to à la carte. Risotto with duck, red wine, savoy cabbage and peas, is more subtle than expected, but has a pleasingly peppery aftertaste. Like many options, this dish has a rustic aesthetic, which contrasts with the modern surroundings. Baked cod is delicately seasoned and accompanied by an an über-fresh salsa of bell peppers, olives, carrots and capers. Roast potatoes and broccoli complete this light but hearty feast. Amarone offers reliable and comfortable Italian dining in the heart of the city, and its popularity shows no signs of fading. + Great for any occasion - Some dishes are under-seasoned

Barolo Grill 92–94 Mitchell Street, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 96) 0141 221 0971, barologrill. co.uk | £13.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Vying for the sophisticated diner, Barolo’s interior is just that little bit swankier than its parent DiMaggio’s restaurants. High-backed leather booths

come-restaurant keeps legions of local customers satisfied from 9am until well into the evening.

4 Celino’s Whether it’s the welcoming buzz, the fantastic deli selection or the excellent cooking, this warm-hearted neighbourhood trattoria will have you coming back.

4 Italian Caffè For instant luxury in sophisticated surroundings, settle into this Merchant City diner with a glass of wine and a selection of good quality Italian tapas.

4 Panevino Authentic and stylish Enoteca pairing fine regional wines with eye-catching antipasti and wellbalanced flavour-texture combos among its main dishes.

4 La Parmigiana Top-end cuisine from one of Glasgow’s perennially favourite Italian restaurants, popular for special occasions and celebrations.

4 Riccardo’s Italian Kitchen Finnieston local with great-value food that’s befitting of a high-end bistro, from delicious pizzas and pastas to hearty bruschetta and fresh seafood.

4 Singl-end Newcomer hosting a grassroots Italian experience – well-sourced ingredients, simplicity, passion, and a big dash of creativity – all in a strikin etting.

edged with frosted glass at the front and mid-section of the venue make for an intimate dining experience. The signature hot grill provides a focal point at the rear where seating is open plan to accommodate the party crowd. Classic old photos adorn the walls juxtaposed with a faux flame plasma screen. Champagne cocktails and wine flow depending on your wallet size. There’s an assortment of antipasti starters, focaccia and sharing plates. First up, steamed mussels and goat’s cheese with caramelised pear are simply executed, no-frills affairs, while the promise of Gold Standard steaks from the grill dominate meal deals beyond pizza and pasta options. The seafood kebab suffers from a lack of grill time, while the grilled chicken breast with accompanying vegetables is decent but doesn’t quite spark the senses. Occasional inconsistencies aside, homemade apple strudel shows more flair along with a generous cheeseboard that pairs well with The List Eating & Drinking Guide 159

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TABLE Talk

CHRIS MAY ON UNGLAMOROUS DINING Some of the best food I’ve eaten is from places that the average person would turn their nose up at. I thought I had eaten real Mexican food until I stopped at a nameless, roach coach-style taco truck while hunting for a Cadillac part in Reno, Nevada. The tacos were soft, white corn tortillas loaded with confit pork shoulder, braised beef tongue or pit-smoked lamb, with cilantro, red onion, tomatillo salsa and lime. I can’t go back to Tex-Mex imitations now. To find Bowen’s Island Restaurant in South Carolina, you had to follow a dirt road until your tyres crunched over a hundred years’ worth of oyster shells. It was not much more than a large wooden shack on stilts over a swamp. The menu was oysters, steamed in their shells on a sheet of metal over an open fire in the corner. The visibly drunk pitmaster would scoop a shovelful onto your newspaper-covered table, hand you a blunt knife to shuck them and an unopened packet of Ritz crackers. Sadly, it burned down a few years back. I think you can imagine what happened. South Beach, Florida, is famous for its style and glamour. Fancy restaurants line the world-famous Ocean Drive. I’m not there though. I’m two streets back eating deep-fried pork chunks with dirty rice and yuca in a fluorescent-lit Cuban cafeteria that wears its 1960s’ décor without any retro irony, . The first Buddy’s was, and is, a bit divey-looking. I opened the place with next to no money, and had to improvise with what I had. The budget was spent on equipment and did not stretch to décor. Despite this, people came for the food. I’m glad I’m not the only diner who doesn’t judge a book by its cover. Q Chris May is owner-chef at Buddy’s Bar Diner Grill and Buddy’s BBQ & Burgers (see page 166).

160 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Singl-end (page 163): superb Italian food and groceries to go at this unique newcomer on Garnethill

a fine Barolo wine or liqueur to finish. + House Barolo - Some style over substance

4 Battlefield Rest 55 Battlefield Road, Southside (Map 8: D6, 27) 0141 636 6955, battlefieldrest. co.uk | Closed Sun (open special occasions) | £9.50 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

With fairy lights in its windows, The Battlefield Rest sparkles on its traffic island. Distinctly bistro, tightly packed tables are decked with attractive oilcloth and candles. With a number of specialities that aren’t commonplace in Glasgow restaurants, dishes pack a flavourful punch. One such option is tagliatelle rustiche,offering a delightful cacophony of flavours. With salty, crispy pancetta, earthy chestnuts, spinach, cherry tomatoes, and garlic and chilli oil, every mouthful surprises afresh. Likewise, fried sea bass served on a smoked haddock risotto does not shy away from complex and contrasting flavours, with the duo of fish offset by peas and spinach. Starters are substantial and are, in some cases, transposed to mains on the lunch menu, such as the vegetarian crêpes stuffed with broccoli, spinach and Taleggio cheese, served with crostini and olive pâté. Bubbling pot gambizo is scalding hot, with prawns and chorizo steaming as they are forked out of chilli-specked oil. Fortunately considerate staff alert you to the heat with every course. Celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2014, The Battlefield Rest is an independently run bistro with a style all of its own. + Well-paced service - May need to wait for a table

4 La Brava 679a Clarkston Road, Southside (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 569 6257, la-brava.co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Sashaying from lattes and eggs Fiorentina, via paninis, into the evening’s sharing platters and clinking glasses, La Brava does a roaring trade from school bell until last bus. With a largely local customer base, it pays attention to quality and allows patrons to curate their own experience. The menu is predominantly Italian tapas, or asaggini, ranging from

prosciutto dolcelatte to sea bass fillet. Cakes and pastries are made on the premises, and everything, including an off-licence range, can be ordered to go. From the prix-fixe option, three simple tapas make an excellent shared starter or light meal. Battered strips of chicken are accompanied by pungent aioli, and the salumi misti have distinctive flavours. All pasta, risotto and gnocchi dishes are available in full or small portions. Pasta alla norcia is rich and satisfying – sausage, cream, white wine, and the fresh pop of fennel cutting through the sauce. From the specials board, a veal burger is hard to resist. The soft pattie, zinging with red onion, is served with a pepper sauce and flawless fritte. Staff are warm and witty, and it’s easy to see why its many regulars have taken La Brava to heart. + Extensive menu will make every visit unique - Small premises mean booking is advised

Carluccio’s 7 West Nile Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 92) 0141 248 1166, carluccios.com/ restaurants/glasgow | £10.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Carluccio’s ideal City Centre location attracts a broad clientele from busy shoppers looking to rest their Gucci bags to the suited and booted seeking sanctuary from the boardroom. It’s a deli, food shop and kitchen-style caffè restaurant all in one. The entrance display will excite the senses from colourful charcuterie, mouthwatering pastries to eye-popping meringues the size of Alpine peaks. Floor to ceiling shelves stacked with Italian allsorts – pastas, tapenades, oils, truffles, biscotti and the like – packed and ready to go. While the all-day menu including small plates, antipasti, pasta and risotto may not be the most adventurous, gluten-free, veggie and vegan preferences are covered. Tortino di tonno – tuna and caper fishcake – is light moist and flaky on the inside with a super-crispy coating, shame vinegary capers are verging on overpowering. Gnocchi al gorganzola balances flavour and texture well – dreamy creamy cheese envelopes small yet plentiful gnocchi pieces and is delicate enough

to let the fresh spinach breathe. Highly recommend, the handmade tiramisù, which is soft and fluffy with a jolting boozy finish. + Lovely Sicilian wine - Some flavours lack depth, as can service

4 Celino’s 620–624 Alexandra Parade, East End (Map 7: D1, off) 0141 554 0523, celinos.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Celino’s is a lovely neighbourhood venue in the East End of the city, with a cosy feel created by the friendly staff, the buzz of conversation, nostalgic photos of the Celino family on the walls and a treasure chest of a deli chock full of Italian treats, behind the huge counter, hanging from the ceiling and stacked round the edges. What looks like a relatively run of the mill menu, covering antipasto, pasta, risotto and pizza as well as steaks and speciality dishes such as seafood of the day in a tomato and chilli broth, is made special by the quality of the ingredients, the cooking and the ambience. The portions are generous – the antipasto starter includes a vast range of treats from the deli counter; the arancini are the size of tennis balls and the mains also substantial – but somehow everything gets entirely demolished. The pudding section has emphasis on desserts based on sweet creams, which frankly should be a struggle after the hefty starters and mains – but the torta della nonna is a surprisingly light and delicious lemony pine-nut treat served up with locally produced Soave’s ice-cream. + Being able to cram that pudding in - Generic sweet chilli sauce

Coia’s Café 473–477 Duke Street, East End (Map 7: D1, off) 0141 554 3822, coiascafe.co.uk | £10.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Coia’s is a family-owned East End institution with many strings to its bow: a deli, a takeaway featuring all the chippie favourites and a gelateria, as well as the café itself. The vast menu covers all sorts – breakfasts, burgers, toasties, pizzas, pastas – even mince and tatties. It’s a popular neighbourhood destination always buzzing with regulars tucked in cosy booths or round numerous tables. Coia’s success may be built on catering

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for all – but it can feel like there is almost too much going on, in the venue and on the menu. The cooked breakfasts are good; there’s an endless range of components but the scrambled eggs are delicious and they also do great coffee. The mains are generous, but the detail sometimes goes awry; the should-be luxurious king prawn and scallop pasta was rather overcooked, and the roast chicken and rocket salad came with a hefty intermix of unadvertised cooked peppers. However, the homemade ice-cream would perk anyone up; you can choose from a wide variety of flavours on display in the funky rotating fridge. + Cosy booths for watching the buzz - Business-like service

Di Maggio’s • 21 Royal Exchange Square, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 107) 0141 248 2111, dimaggios. co.uk | £17 (lunch) / £17 (dinner) • 1038 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: A4, 17) 0141 632 7924, dimaggios. co.uk/shawlands | £8.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner) • 61 Ruthven Lane, West End (Map 9A: C1, 42) 0141 334 8560, dimaggios.co.uk/ west_end | £8.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner) • 163 West Nile Street, City Centre (Map 6: F2, 31) 0141 333 4999, https://www. dimaggios.co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Di Maggio’s have been a familiar fixture on the Glasgow dining scene for 30 years serving up an accessible and family friendly mix of Italian-American food covering pizzas, pastas, ribs, wings and much much more in between. Though you wouldn’t guess it from its unassuming exterior, DiMaggio’s Royal Exchange Square flagship restaurant is a cavernous art deco treasure where hundreds of diners can relax amid its dark wood and

sweeping curves. Given its premium location, this restaurant concentrates on an à la carte menu throughout the day, but the generous portions mean the DiMaggio’s chain consistently offers value for money. Starters could easily suffice as light mains, such as the large breaded mushrooms stuffed with pâté and accompanied by aioli. Daily specials are popular, with a few favourites circulating regularly. mAt the Ruthven Lane branch, the most recent fit out sees the large upstairs venue converted into a cosy and stylish interior, with red walls, banquette seating, industrial ceiling lamps hung low over booths and vintage Life covers on the wall. The restaurant caters particularly well for young children; there is an unobtrusive play area that can also be hidden away when private dining takes place. Psychic nights are a recent innovation – a surprising but apparently popular addition. The Theatreland branch occupies the ground floor of the Holiday Inn Express, handily located just round the corner from the Royal Concert Hall, cinema, Theatre Royal and Pavilion theatre. And, a Southside stalwart, DiMaggio’s Shawlands venue was one of the first restaurants from these major players in the Scottish restaurant scene., catering to couples, friends and great for families.

La Fiorentina 2 Paisley Road West, Southside (Map 8: D1, off) 0141 420 1585, la-fiorentina.com | £8.50 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

The labyrinthine layout of La Fiorentina, packed as it is is with sculptures and curios, is pleasantly disorientating. Set in a multicultural and vaguely industrial district on the Southside of the Clyde, it is quirky and relaxed. Polpettine to start are saucy and spicy, and parmigiana de

melanzane is thick with chunks of garlic. Tostini with haggis, bacon and a poached egg, may seem more Scottish than Italian but it fits the restaurant’s ethos of simple ingredients and big flavours. Salmon risotto from the pre-theatre menu expertly blends flavours and textures, which is often difficult to achieve. Nutty saffron rice is peppered with soft chunks of fish, as well as whole, miniature onions that burst, sharp and sweet, in the mouth. From the à la carte, tagliatelle with fillet steak and wild mushrooms is a treat, with the tender, chunky beef you would expect in a stew, but none of the stodge. Thin pizza bases collapse under toppings, and inflate at the perimeter. Clearly recognisable by the angel atop its roof, La Fiorentina is worth the pilgrimage to the edge of the city. + A secretive gem, handy for the Hydro and SECC - Décor could be distracting

Fratelli Sarti • 42 Renfield Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 73) 0141 572 7000, sarti.co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner) • 121 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 40) 0141 204 0440, sarti.co.uk | £10 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner) • 133 Wellington Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 38) 0141 248 2228, sarti.co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Fratelli Sarti have three City Centre venues, all sharing the same à la carte menus; and all have a devoted patronage solidly built on authenticity and warm service. The Renfield Street branch has an inviting, candle-lit, wood panelled and marbled interior. The menu covers familiar territory across pizzas and pastas but also has a particularly strong seafood offering; mains are a mix of more unusual

choices based on traditional dishes such as coniglio in umido alla spezzina – slowcooked rabbit with black olives, rosemary and white wine; along with classics such as osso bucco – veal with risotto Milanese. Despite all this talk of rabbit and veal, vegetarians are served well and gluten-free options are available. The quality and freshness of the ingredients, many of which are imported, is apparent throughout; be it the buffalo mozzarella and herbs on the Primavera pizza or the delicious Spaghetti alla Scoglio, a seafood pasta with chilli and herbs. The extensive wine list is drawn from across 16 Italian regions; and if you’re feeling adventurous, a selection of pricey but interesting Italian craft ales is also on offer. + Excellent seafood - Wine selection on the costly side

Gambrino 333 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: G2, 85) 0141 339 4111, gambrino. co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

A few years back Gambrino dominated both sides of Great Western Road – pizzeria on one side, bar on the other. Returning to a single venue restaurant seems to have paid dividends. Atmosphere is lively and informal, akin to the bustle of a rustic Neapolitan trattoria with appetitearousing aromas twitching the nostrils as soon as you enter. Food has been elevated a notch, evident in its sourcing policy from some of Scotland’s finest organic fruit and veg, fish and meat suppliers. Daily blackboard specials add an imaginative dimension to more traditional antipasti, salad, hand-baked pizza and pasta options. Take the generous portion of chicken liver pâté with toasted Italian bread and red onion chutney, or bistecca Rob Roy – chargrilled juicy sirloin stacked

rava

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“Great food, great service, great coffee too - bravo La Brava” The List La Brava 679a Clarkston Road, Glasgow East Renfrewshire G44 3SE 0141 569 6257 www.la-brava.co.uk

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with haggis and black pudding on whisky sauce. Fresh catch are the plump sweet West Coast scallops beautifully caramelised and cooked to perfection with wilted spinach, garlic, chilli and lemon. Clean plates all round. Room for dessert? If you prefer your tiramisù on the creamy side then this one’s for you. Great value whatever the occasion – lunch, dinner, or takeaway. + Authentic Neapolitan flavours - Half a lemon stuck in middle of scallops

Menu. A pricey starter of five langoustines is drizzled with slightly greasy dressing, but another of beef carpaccio is pleasingly textured, heaped with rocket and parmesan. Portions are generally generous – a lasagne is simply crammed with wild mushrooms in a creamy sauce and piled high with asparagus. Finishing touches include liqueur or regular coffees. Though the train doesn’t stop here anymore, it’s still just the ticket. + Elegant surroundings - Off the beaten track

The Italian Bistro 1051 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: D1, off) 0141 339 5575, italianbistroglasgow.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £20 (dinner)

4 The Italian Caffè

The main road and nearby Gartnavel Hospital seem to vanish once inside this striking former Kelvinside railway station, as the slightly art deco touches create a classy and distinctive atmosphere. Run by Ashoka partner and former Scottish Asian businesswoman of the year Nasreen Aksi (who also owns Indian Platform upstairs in the building’s function suite), the room downstairs is dominated by a stunning, old-fashioned bar. One unusual touch: a cabinet of jewellery for sale. The jewels in the crown of the menu, however, are stone-baked pizzas, pastas and seafood, but with a few fancy touches particularly on the afternoon/early evening Market

Smart and sleek, the Italian Caffè is more wine bar than the laid-back café its name suggest. With its polished interior, all smoky mirrors and leather, the Caffè is sophisticated, yet warm and relaxed. Inspired by Italian ‘enotecas’, outlets for local wine producers, the focus is on good quality wine and tapas-style dining. While there are pasta and risotto mains available, the wide range of small plates offers the opportunity to mix and match Italian classics, such as aubergine parmigiano and bruschettas, with mini-meals such as pork cheeks on a bed of creamy mash, and crab risotto – the pork dissolves in the mouth, and risotto is subtle and warming. Specials live up to their name, such as juicy fillet steak served with king prawns and a port sauce, or monkfish wrapped in pancetta. The desserts are equally commendable and, accompanied by a glass of prosecco, would be worth a visit in their own right. Whether gazing out through the generous windows on to Glasgow’s Merchant City, or tucked in a cosy booth, diners can soak up the Caffè’s metropolitan buzz. + Perfect panacotta - Knowing when to stop

TIP/,67 FOR PIZZA • BrewDog Inventive toppings to soak up innovative brews 118 • Brutti Ma Buoni Unbeatable Brutti breads in the Merchant City 118 • Delizique Superlative sourdough delights at this Hyndland favourite 141 • Firebird Crispy edged pizzas, tinged to perfection 134 • Gambrino Great Western restaurant with top topped treats 161 • The Little Café Small is beautiful with perfect pizzas to match 142 • NY Slice A taste of the Big Apple in Dear Green Place 166 • O Sole Mio Traditional wood-ﬁred treats in the city centre 162 • Riccardo’s Italian Kitchen Neighbourhood diner with fresh, homemade offerings 163 • Stereo Vital vegan versions on homemade dough 128 • Vespar Italian bar on the cobbles with pizzas by the metre 129

162 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

92 Albion Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 16) 0141 552 3186, theitaliancaffe. co.uk | £7.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

The Italian Kitchen 64 Ingram Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 12) 0141 572 1472, italian-kitchen. co.uk | £10.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

In a crowded field, the Italian Kitchen’s USP is its use of top quality ingredients and a commitment to cooking from scratch. The restaurant has a relaxed contemporary feel and despite being one large open space, manages to stay warm and welcoming thanks to stripped stone, wood and strong feature walls; the layout is particularly suited to accommodating large groups comfortably. As with the décor, the menu is modern, accessible, but never dull. The use of first-rate ingredients, including imported artisanal products, means the kitchen can offer simple dishes such as pizza margherita with a confidence many mainstream outlets would struggle to match. The antipasti includes rabbit ravioli and asparagus gratinati with a balanced parmesan cream; the excellent stonebaked pizzas have toppings such as pancetta with mushrooms, dolcelatte and fresh thyme; pastas range from bolognese to a luxurious spaghetti with king prawns, langoustine, crab, baby calamari and mussels. As with the rest of the menu, desserts are made on site; and while this is the least adventurous course, the panacotta is nonetheless light and delicious. + Great pizza base - Salty fish

Jamie’s Italian 1 George Square, City Centre (Map 6: G4, 104) 0141 404 2690, jamiesitalian.com | £15 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Love him, hate him or just wonder why he insists on referring to vegetables as ‘Mr Carrot’, Jamie Oliver’s ebullient personality is all over his chain of mid-price Italian eateries. Sausages are

sourced from ‘my mate Jimmy Doherty’, declares the menu, while cheese doesn’t just come with chilli jam, it’s ‘amazing chilli jam’. Housed in the listed former Post Office building facing George Square, what could be a large empty barn is given a lively atmosphere, particularly at weekends, by this sense of personality, along with staff encouraged to taste and describe each dish. A good range of delistyle starters includes their trademark planks of meat or veg selections, while the range of 15 pastas – all made on site every day – includes a sausage pappardelle in red wine that contrasts braised meat with a rich sauce and crunchy breadcrumbs to make a satisfying main course. Other mains include dry-aged steaks and lamb lollipops, which are chargrilled under a brick to a sweet tenderness, but trying to dip them into small bowls of salad, nuts and yogurt is an awkward, fiddly business. The toppings available for their good quality ice-cream (smashed honeycomb, crushed nuts, etc) are much more helpfully piled on for you. + Well-informed waiting staff - Noisy atmosphere at busy times

Mediterraneo 159 Ingram Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B2, 7) 0141 552 0460, medglasgow.com | £5.95 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

This extensive glass-fronted venue encompasses both Italian restaurant and champagne bar. It’s big, and needs people to give the contemporary décor soul, but has no problem pulling a crowd with its good-value deals. Available from lunch to early evening, the set-price menu is in a wildly different price range to the à la carte and the lunchtime hordes bear testament to its popularity. Bruschetta caprese is bursting with flavour, heaped with tasty fresh herbed tomatoes; the battered squid and king prawns are light and the lemon mayo tangy. The mains are less exciting; the pollo ripieno is a tad overcooked but accompanied by moreish roast potatoes somewhere between a spud and a hand-cut chip. It may well be that the à la carte is simply suffering from neglect next to the set deals; the wise diner should go with the multitudes and eat fixed price while enjoying the buzz and the likeable service. + Great bruschetta - Rubbery calamari

Lamora 1166–1170 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 17) 0141 560 2070, lamorakitchen.co.uk | £10.95 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Mia Roma

This lively, family-owned West End joint with a bright, simple and appealing interior, offers the familiar pasta and pizza dishes alongside a small selection of well-presented traditional favourites. A starter of carpaccio di bresaola keeps its air-dried beef moist, dressed with rocket, parmesan and mustard aioli, while the gnocci with wild mushrooms and cheese is a satisfying appetiser. Fresh pastas are nicely al dente and come with, for example, a juicy prawns, mussels and cherry tomato, or a rich and creamy wild mushroom and white wine sauce. Good quality gelati rounds off the meal, though more indulgent desserts like tiramisù, marscarpone gratin and panacotta are also available. The restaurant offers a goodvalue pre-theatre menu and lunch choices include ‘light bites’. The adjoining takeaway offers a peer into the restaurant kitchen and quality pizza and pasta to go. + Buzzy atmosphere - Staff pushing drinks too much

Mia Roma’s selling point is almost purely pizza by the slice – or al taglio. Large square pizzas on the counter range from plain old margaret with tomato sauce and cheese to plusher, more imaginative options such as ricotta and prawns, pesto with cherry tomatoes, and sausage with leeks and chilli. Given a quick blast in the oven, the slices are served on wooden boards or in on-thego cardboard boxes. Depending on the time of day and footfall, they can be super fresh or be feeling a little sorry for themselves. Sparsity in the décor is often a wipe-clean necessity for Sauchiehall’s late nighters such as this place (4am on weekends), but it’s easy enough on the eye, with blacks and reds chiming with the brandings of Kimbo coffee – an added attraction, as is the local Equi’s ice-cream. + Kimbo coffee - Pizzas could be fresher

302 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 24) 0141 332 1098 | £9 (lunch) / £9 (dinner)

North Star La Lanterna 35 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: D5, 124) 0141 221 9160, lalanterna-glasgow. co.uk | Closed Sun | £11.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Time flies in La Lanterna. The relaxed, easy atmosphere and rustic surroundings make it easy to while away a few hours, and a few courses, without a thought for the outside world. Tucked in a basement on Glasgow’s busy Hope Street, and just moments from Central Station, La Lanterna has been offering high-quality Italian cookng since 1970. Meals are traditional but lovingly evolved to include indulgent and unexpected combinations. Not a place for a quick pizza, the focus is on pasta, meat, and fish, in generous but manageable portions. Paper thin bresaola is a warm, pinky red, topped with rocket and creamy chunks of parmesan. It announces itself as a tricoloured explosion that echoes across the senses. Rigatoni with fillet steak and salsiccia is rich and hearty, and deservedly one of the most popular dishes on the menu. Daily specials are confidently recommended by staff. Roasted halibut is first grilled to lock in moisture, and its flavour hints at outdoor cooking regardless of season. The tiramisù is a restaurant and family favourite – a light, confident, classic. + A haven of hospitality - Garlic bread not that garlicky

108 Queen Margaret Drive, West End See Cafés

O Sole Mio 34–36 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 64) 0141 331 1397, osolemioglasgow.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Tucked at the east end of Bath Street, O Sole Mio has been faithful to this City Centre neighbourhood for close to half a century. Its friendly hospitality and no-fuss approach leaves a long-lasting impression that keeps folks coming back – good food, good wine, good cheer. Dishes are eye-catchingly colourful with fresh flavour combinations such as crostini O Sole Mio. It’s a hearty bite of toasted ciabatta topped with wafer-thin swirls of deep-red Parma ham scattered with honey-drizzled figs and a hint of fennel. Calamari is refreshingly not that deep-fried rubber ring variety but instead succulent squid strips rolled in sweet polenta crust nestled in a bed of crunchy fragrant rocket. Fresh seafood and vegetarian pasta dishes have Amalfian coast authenticity, while the traditional wood-fired oven delivers a true taste of Napoli – deliciously thin and charred, crispy-edged pizzas. For carne lovers there’s veal, wild boar, Tuscan sausage and steaks, too. A step from the city’s shopping mile, Royal Concert Hall and

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apple crumble ice-cream and smooth apple confit served on a slate platter. + Sourcing policy - Pasta starters pricey

Piccolo Mondo 344 Argyle Street, City Centre (Map 6: C5, 126) 0141 248 2481, piccolomondo. co.uk | Closed Sun | £12.50 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

Piccolo Mondo initially seems a strange combination – a slightly insalubrious location and what appears at first sight to be starchy fine dining. It’s actually a far more welcoming proposition; an old-fashioned ristorante with traditional values – good service, good food and a sense of occasion. There is a confusing range of menus but all feature established Italian and non-Italian dishes such as veal Milanese or pork stroganoff, along with some unexpected choices – delicious potted prawns are a speciality; scampi and chips appear, too. Desserts also focus on classics such as the surprisingly light sticky toffee pudding. The set menus offer great value for money and cheery staff work hard to keep diners happy, with success; the restaurant enjoys a high level of repeat custom of all shapes and sizes, from genteel older couples to corporate types from the nearby business hotels. Roman statuary and doilies do feature, along with easy listening piano classics; but that’s all part of the charm. Piccolo Mondo feels a little out of step, a little out of time – and is all the better for it. + Good old-fashioned service - An abundance of doilies

4 Riccardo’s Italian Kitchen 512 St Vincent Street, West End (Map 9B: F3, 40) 0141 248 9174, riccardoskitchen. com | £7.50 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

The Italian Caffè: exceptional tapas-style dining in a stylish restaurant

Cineworld multiplex makes it the ideal pit-stop for express lunch, pre-theatre or less-formal dinner. + Wood-fired pizzas – that’s amore! - Sad wee glacé cherry on the panacotta

command the wide-open bar, or swish up the sweeping steps to larger tables on the mezzanine. + Hand-made ravioli like no other - Wanting it all in one sitting

4 Panevino

4 La Parmigiana

1075 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 34) 0141 221 1136, panevino.co.uk | £7.50 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

447 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: F2, 68) 0141 334 0686, laparmigiana. co.uk | £17 (set lunch) / £30 (dinner)

This bustling wine bar ‘enoteca’ in Finnieston’s trendy heartland makes you all a-glow inside. A sensory experience that’ll bring pizazz to your palate – whether for aperitivo, brunch, pre-theatre or dinner. Pick and mix fine Italian cured meats, cheeses and marinated vegetables such as formaggio stagionato con vino Barolo with honeycomb pot – it’s the bee’s knees. Panevino’s finer hospitality sets it apart from sister venue Little Italy on Byres Road, and expertly executed flavour texture combinations deliver plenty of ‘wow’. Plump juicy West Coast scallops bathe in a sizzling skillet of buttery anchovy bubbles, while flavours meld harmoniously in the aubergine and ricotta ravioli with sage butter, delivering a self-assured nod and smile. Meat options include Milanese speciality osso buco, oven-roasted veal shank with white wine jus and saffron risotto. Battling for supremacy in the sweet department is divine hot pear cannelloni with walnut caramel sauce and brittle, with pistachio ice-cream. Take a ‘flyte of fancy’ or peruse pairing notes from over 30 regional wines. Comfy leather stools

Scotland is blessed with some of the best natural produce in the world, and through adopting this rich larder, La Parmigiana delivers classical dishes with flair. The elegant dining room is all white tablecloths, deep red walls and mood-lit alcoves. And there’s a rather impressive old dark wood dresser. It’s an intimate affair with discreet service that’s not too stuffy – perfect for a special occasion, wooing business clients or a pre-theatre treat. While seafood and pasta starters tip the balance, second course options will keep carnivores happy. Pan-fried fillet of MacDuff Scotch beef with crushed peppercorns is among the best – so tender it melts on the tongue. Tarragon cream sauce complements it well, adding a sharp dimension to this delicate cut. Mains are unaccompanied so a side of sauté potatoes comes recommended. Cacciucco alla Livornese, a zesty fish and shellfish bouillabaisse packed with fresh catch of mussels, scallops and langoustines may leave little room for dessert. But temptation is overcome when food and art unite – a sumptuous pot of Calvados-laced crème brûlée, crunchy

It’s not just its retro stylish looks that make this café-bar pizzeria stand out among Finnieston’s burgeoning dining scene, but also its great-value food that’s befitting of a high-end bistro – neither skimping on quality ingredients nor fresh flavours. Daily lunch/evening specials, including soups, stews and seafood keep things dynamic beyond signature pizza and pasta options. Rustic and chunky bruschetta makes a hearty starter – the goat’s cheese and caramelised red onion version is highly recommended, while the fresh bowl of moules marinière with added red chilli is hard to beat. Fresh homemade pizza capricciosa has a winning combination of anchovies, egg, capers, tomato and mozzarella atop light crispy dough. While lemon sole and juicy prawn parcels pair beautifully with a silky smooth mornay-style sauce, that doesn’t overpower. On the cusp of the main strip, Riccardo’s is a gem of a place to meet friends in relaxed and informal setting. It’s fully licensed and a welcome halfway house between Charing Cross and the Hydro. So park the Piaggio and enjoy a coffee, lunchtime croquemonsieur or pre-theatre dinner. + Great value delicious food all round - Only Tennent’s on tap

Ristorante Teatro 61 Elmbank Street, City Centre (Map 6: A2, 8) 0141 332 3565, teatrorestaurant. co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Named for the King’s Theatre around the corner, Ristorante Teatro is an Italian restaurant from the same team that owns the nearby Alla Turca. Popular as a pretheatre spot, Teatro offers pizza, pasta, and risotto as well as some speciality dishes. Accommodating customers who want to choose quickly, there is an allinclusive menu that offers three courses plus wine for £29 per person. The cream leather interiors with glistening gemstones are unexpected, but original

woodwork and stained glass hints at a romantic past. With 60 covers, the restaurant makes good use of its space, with plenty of nooks and crannies so large groups and couples can dine comfortably alongside each other. The signature dish is a mixed Italian grill: mini fillet steak, chicken breast and Italian sausage providing a protein hit for hungry carnivores. Pollo alla teatro is also generous, with large slices of chicken breast in a mushroom, white wine and dolcelatte sauce. Overall this restaurant is a an unpretentious affair that knows its audience, with some endearing touches such as the complimentary Kir Royale with dessert. + Friendly, chatty staff - 10% service charge on all bills

4 Singl-end 265 Renfrew Street, City Centre (Map 6: A1, 1) 0141 611 7270, singl-end.com | Closed Mon | £9 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Off the beaten track, Singl-end is a destination venue for curious and discerning diners. Housed in a basement warehouse, imaginatively transformed into a rustic food shop, café and spacious kitchen restaurant with decked terrace for al fresco eats. Chef Gianni understands what Italian regional cooking is all about – provenance of ingredients, simplicity, passion, and a big dash of creativity. Much like an art installation, the décor is a talking point, while the fresh, quality ingredients speak for themselves. Screens with scrolling menus suspend from industrial metal tracks, and cast-iron Singer sewing tables double as sinks. Exposed copper pipes and shutters adorned by local craft-designer fabric keep things toasty. A five-course taster menu is the best way to experience the kitchen’s versatility and veritable Italian ‘pot luck’ – bringing a sense of theatre and authentic flavours of Puglia to the table. Sample rustic, market-fresh antipasti that comes spread-eagled on a pizza-box lid, wonderful wild sea bass steak with pistachio crust and lime fishtail, gnocchi with deliciously intense crab bisque or veal T-bone steak with lardo potatoes. There are enjoyable wee bitesize ‘dolci’ pastries and mini pots of tiramisù to finish, with great-tasting coffee, too. + Experimental dining the Apulian way - Novelty menu screens not very practical

Tony Macaroni • 4 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 21) 0141 334 5959, tonymacaroni.co.uk | £4.95 (one-course) (set lunch) / £18 (dinner) • 17 John Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B1, 5) 0141 552 6009, tonymacaroni.co.uk | £10.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner) • 133 West George Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4) 0141 221 4718, tonymacaroni. co.uk | £4.95 (one course) (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Family-friendly chain Tony’s began in East Kilbride and is now spreading across Scotland, familiar through their regular ads and sponsorship of Livingston FC. But the vibe inside is purely Italian, with the Byres Road branch dominated by a huge screen showing classic movies like La Dolce Vita, while a shiny Vespa is positioned on a high ledge (don’t ask how they got it up there – the staff shudder at the memory). The menu has all the usual fare and is quite extensive, but what’s impressive is the cooking of fairly simple dishes. For instance, fillets of sea bass are cooked only with lemon butter and herbs, letting the gentle flavour of the fish emerge, while the veal Milanese is crunchy and comes with spaghetti in a light sauce. Kids and large groups have their own menus, while the lunch/teatime Presto menu is good value. Excellent gelato and good quality, The List Eating & Drinking Guide 163

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proper pizzas also add to the generally cheerful atmosphere, which is particularly popular with families on Sundays. Tony Macaroni’s Merchant City venue is homely and relaxed. With a quaint spiral staircase, wrought-iron balcony and classic Italian films playing in the background, the restaurant is convincingly continental. However, the over-riding atmosphere is that of an Italian-American diner. The latest addition in Glasgow is the City Centre venue, in the heart of the bustling vibe, with a corner spot and great windows for watching the action outside. Tony Macaroni is the sister company of legendary ice-creamery Nardini’s, make sure you leave room for a super sundae at their restaurants. + Perfect for comfort food - Great starters and desserts can overshadow the mains

Via Italia 115 Union Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 87) 0141 222 2368 | £8.50 (lunch) / £8.50 (dinner)

Inspired by Italian street food and the slow-food movement that celebrates natural, organic, and fresh ingredients, Via Italia is ideally placed to attract office workers, students, and the late-night crowd. There are three main options; piade, pasta and salad bowls. Choose the base, add fillings such as meatballs or chilli king prawns, and top with dressings, cheese or salad. This building block concept works well with Asian cuisine and it has potential here, but the combinations are not infallible. The piada, an Italian flatbread, is the jewel in the crown, but this wrap containing spaghetti doesn’t deliver a carb hit quite as convincingly as a chip butty. The signature via carne is an overwhelming combination of salted beef, gherkins, rocket, pasta, and enough mustard to make a hot dog blush, wrapped in a piada. While fusion is fashionable, it’s probably best to build your own dish if you’re looking to capture a familiar flavour of Italy. However, with a location next to Central Station, its good quality coffee

and pastas to-go are likely to appeal to commuters. + Endless combinations for the openminded - Signature dishes need honing

La Vita • 161 Queen Street, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 100) 0141 248 3533, lavitapizzeria. co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner) • Spuntini: 199–201 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C2, 30) 0141 339 4222, lavitapizzeria.co.uk | £6.99 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

The flagship of La Vita’s group on Queen Street, packing them in particularly at weekends, is a traditional Italian winding its way up several levels with the staff nipping up and down or fetching plates from an old-fashioned dumb waiter. Service is friendly but brisk, though it may take some time to choose from the slightly over-large menu, covering a multitude of pastas, risottos, pizzas, antipasti, meat, fish and chicken dishes. The dishes are on the large side too: stone-baked oven pizzas are made fresh daily and come with toppings including the unusual Scozzese – Italian pepperoni with Stornoway black pudding – but they’re a bit too huge for one person. Bruschetta is excellent here, with fresh bread piled high with warmed tomatoes and fresh garlic, drizzled with balsamic. Great quality coffee, served with a small glass of sparkling water and a wee cube of tablet, sets off the meal. The main focus at the striking Byres Road incarnation is on little dishes intended for sharing. The mix of standard Italian choices – bruschetta, quattro stagione, pasta carbonara – and the more unusual such as black pudding and duck in a redcurrant jus or lobster ravioli, will keep both traditionalists and adventurers happy. The Italian tapas concept has proven appealing and this, along with the friendly staff, range of special deals and great location, makes Spuntini popular with a diverse range of diners looking for a novel take on Italian cuisine. + Excellent coffee - Some tables are cramped

MEXICAN From a cosy neighbourhood diner, to street food-style setups and a livey tequilaria, the Mexican food purveyors in this section are a mixed bag, dishing out tasty tacos, fabulous fajitas and, of course, great cocktails. While a Mexican note can be found in many bars, cafés and bistros these days, these are the specialists, dedicated to providing Glaswegians with a true taste of a fun, fresh and popular cuisine. Reviewers: Tiff Griffin, Emily Henderson, Donald MacInnes

4 Bibi’s Cantina 599 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: A3, off) 0141 579 0179, bibiscantina. com | £6.25 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Even on an unremarkable evening during the week, Bibi’s Cantina is packed, clearly a popular neighbourhood restaurant. With only 35 covers, it’s a snug place to dine but the food is fantastically fresh and thoughtfully prepared. The friendly staff members bring you a shot of frozen margarita and a basket of corn chips as you choose your food. You will need a large glass of iced water close by if you opt for the very filling and spicy starter of chilli rellenos – jalapeño chillis stuffed with soft cheese, coated in breadcrumbs and deep fried, served with salsa. The goat’s cheese, roasted red pepper, olives and coriander wrapped empanada style in puff pastry served on a spinach bean salad with patatas bravas, comes in an overly large portion but is an excellently constructed main. There are plenty of other choices such as burritos, tacos and fajitas as well as baked and marinated fish dishes. The desserts are imaginative, too, with delicious concoctions including fruit

margarita sorbet and cinnamon tortilla chips drizzled with honey and served with ice-cream. Off the well-trod track a bit, but worth every step of the way. + ‘Early bird’ offer - Need to book in advance

4 Juan Chihuahua 373 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: B2, 11) 0141 333 3940, juanchihuahua.com | £6.95 (set lunch) / £14 (dinner)

It is easy to be put off by the nightclub look of Juan Chihuahua, not to mention the strange name, but once you are inside and sampling the fresh and flavoursome Mexican food, you will forget any reservations you may have had. Owned by the same group that has the Garage on its book, the cantina and tequilaria (there are 50 to try) is colourfully decorated, with the menu is done in the style of a newspaper - The Daily Juan. The starter of mini chorizos wrapped in ham, crispy fried and tossed in hot sauce with sour cream, are a bit chewy, but a bargain at £3.95. There are steaks, fish dishes, tacos and burgers, but opt for the fajitas – especially with prawns marinated in tequila and banana wax chillis with crunchy peppers, spring onion and cherry tomatoes. For dessert, the churros with chilli chocolate sauce are indulgent, or round off your meal with a Cadillac Margarita made with tequila, triple sec, lime juice and Grand Marnier, worth every penny of the £7 price tag. + Wine comes in stylish clay cups - Below a nightclub

Nachos 15 Skirving Street, Southside (Map 8: A5, 22) 0141 616 6666, nachosglagow. co.uk | Closed Mon | £15 (dinner)

An Incan mural dominates the décor in a large dining room filled with natural looking wooden furniture and a slightly incongruous living room style carpet. Tuesday and Wednesday nights are tapas nights and there’s quite a range. Not all are Mexican either – with a few Spanish dishes such as patatas bravas and chorizo a la parilla in the mix – the latter more like pepperoni sausage than chorizo. Other more successful offerings include the refried beans and the chipotle mushrooms. No doubt the tapas are good value with some from as little as £1. The à la carte is available on tapas nights, too. The beef chimichunga, however, features lacklustre meat that is on the al dente side, wrapped in a deep-fried tortilla that absorbs too much cooking oil. More successful is the mole poblano featuring moist chicken breast in a chilli and chocolate sauce. Desserts are not homemade and the churros, strips of deep-fried doughnut with a chocolate sauce, are more calorific than terrific. + Refried beans - Cooking that leaves a lot to be desired

Pancho Villa’s 26 Bell Street, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 27) 0141 552 7737, panchovillas. co.uk | £8.50 (set lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Bibi’s Cantina: exceptional Mexican cuisine and cocktails at this welcoming neighbourhood diner 164 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Pancho Villa’s has been open since 1997 and is still a popular restaurant with Merchant City dwellers and shoppers. The walls are painted pink and yellow, adorned with eye-catching paintings. To start, the deep-fried jalapeño chillis stuffed with cheese begin a meal with just the right amount of spice. The fajitas are light and floury, but the mixed vegetables are slightly burnt. There are lots of good options for vegetarians, including enchiladas with lentils and mushrooms in spicy tomato and cheese sauce. The other mains are appealing, too, especially the cracked

MEXICAN

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4 HITLIST

MEXICAN 4 Bibi’s Cantina A true neighbourhood diner past Partick delivering delicious food, with great cocktails – all served in a lively, welcoming atmosphere

4 Juan Chihuahua Amid the Sauchiehall scuffle, this newcomer shines with flavoursome food, a lively buzz and tequilas galore

crab enchiladas made with peppers and spring onions in a cream cheese and chipotle sauce, with rice and salad, priced at a very reasonable £8.95, or meatballs with coriander filled with cheese, hot chilli and tomato sauce. The side orders available seem unnecessary, like onion rings and French fries. Wash it all down with a deliciously potent margarita. High quality food can always be depended on at Pancho Villa’s, giving good value for money and a fun dining experience. + Crisp and crunchy churros - Loud Spanish music on the stereo

Pinto Mexican Kitchen • 5 Gordon Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 95) 0141 248 3364, pintomexican. com | £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner) • 115 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: D5, 85) 0141 243 2321, pintomexican. com | £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner) • 138 Queen Street, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 101) 0141 221 9330, pintomexican. com | £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

Mexican street food means fast, fresh and no fuss and Pinto lives up to that billing. From the tacos, crispy or soft, nachos for sharing or hefty burritos, there’s something for every appetite. Fill them up with juicy slow-cooked pork, marinated steak or chilli beef and choose from salsas going from mild to feisty chipotle. Add any or all of the usual trio of guacamole, cheese and sour cream and it makes for a sizeable portion. More interesting are the pinto beans – that give the chain its name – or nutty black beans that are great for texture. Though the wraps can get a little over-laden with sauce, the ingredients are fresher than other quick and easy options in the city, and the food gets rolled and wrapped before you can say ‘olé’. Thankfully missing are sombreros and neon chillis along the walls, but a selection of Mexican beers add to the atmosphere if the salsa makes you thirsty. From office workers and shoppers to young crowds fuelling up for an evening out, a steady stream of hungry mouths fill the counters and tables whatever the hour. + Keeping it simple works - Don’t bury your burrito

Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen • 6 Renfield Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 93) 0141 248 8940, tacomazama. co.uk | £5.99 (set lunch) / £7 (dinner)

• 263 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: C1, 45) 0141 337 3399, tacomazama. co.uk | £5.99 (set lunch) / £7 (dinner)

Mexican dining in Glasgow can be, appropriately enough, something of a desert. Which makes Taco Mazama an oasis, with its fresh, light offerings a welcome sight for fans of Latino cuisine. The menu is standard enough: the three amigos – burritos, fajitas and tacos – make up most of the options. What’s exceptional is the quality of the fillings and sauces – tender chicken, tangy barbacoa beef and buttery, biteable slow-cooked pork the pick of the bunch. Another key ingredient in Mexican food is handled with aplomb as the house salsas go from a gentle, citrusy pico de gallo to the tomato and chipotle, much more of a mouth fiesta. Portions are generous and prices more than reasonable, with the burrito packed with rice tricky to finish in one sitting. More a snack bar than sit-down dining affair, the location along Byres Road makes it popular throughout the day as laid-back canteen style benches regularly fill up at lunchtime. Evening opening hours add further appeal and there are few better stops for a freshly made late-night bite. The Renfield Street branch offers an even more strippedback takeaway experience – handy for city slickers, and the planned Central Station branch will mean commuters can grab a quality burrito on the way home. + Authentic flavours - More floor space wouldn’t go amiss

TIP/,67 FOR BURGERS & DOGS • Ad Lib Old favourite still delivering the goods 165 • Bar 91 Enduring Merchant City bar with banging burgers 115 • Bread Meats Bread Great value patties and dogs at this newcomer 166 • Bloc+ Bath Street basement offering the Hellboy dog and more

NORTH AMERICAN Burgers have evolved from the domain of comfort food to being at the apex of fashionable dining. Demand has resulted in a competitive market and allowed establishments to expand their reach, with pulled pork, brisket and even poutine (a Canadian dish of chips topped with gravy and cheese) adorning menus across the city. As such, Glasgow now boasts a series of impressive restaurants specialising in US-style cuisine – an import matching our enduring affection for chips and cheese. Reviewers: David Kirkwood, Rory McGinley

Ad Lib 111 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: D4, 84) 0141 248 6645, adlibglasgow. com | £15 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Ad Lib has held residence adjacent to Glasgow’s Central Station since 1983 yet its appeal is far broader than a mere whistle-stop for weary and hungry travellers. A tunnelled entrance opens out to a more expansive restaurant which, complete with prints of New York cafés and iconic Beat writers (mainly Jack Kerouac), gives the setting its recognisable American identity. The diner vibe is offset by the building’s high ceiling, delicate cornicing and tables of furnished wood. This contrast is carried through to the menu as diner classics such as mac ’n’ cheese and sticky back ribs sit alongside more refined dishes such as seared fillets of sea bream and whole lobster. Considerate sourcing of meat from Kittle Hill Farm ensures Ad Lib stands well above the generic diner with four top-quality cuts of steak (including a monstrous 14oz T-bone) on offer. An On the Road menu – a further nod to Kerouac – promises a culinary journey across the States with differing cuisines each month. This, plus the addition of a ‘Street Eats’ selection, gives Ad Lib a definite sense of vibrancy and individuality in its state-side quest. + Chilli fried greens fantastic - Vegetarians will struggle for choice

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• Buddy’s Bar Diner Grill Southside soul food now with sit-in option 166 • Burger Meats Bun Well-sourced meat, beautifully assembled in a bun 166 • Jacker de Viande Arguably the best burgers Glasgow has to offer 166 • LUAC Lebowskis’ younger bro letting the dogs out 124 • Nice ’n’ Sleazy Meathammer knocks top burgers into shape 126

33 Ingram Street, Merchant City (Map 7: D2, 15) 0141 552 5736, adlibglasgow. com | £18 (lunch) / £18 (dinner)

Like its older sister, Ingram Street’s Ad Lib remains in vogue through an intriguing portfolio of changing menus, with regular foodie events, such as chilli con carnival and best burger competition, proving to be a big hit. Similarly, their monster burger challenge, which consists of 3lb of Aberdeen Angus beef and ‘a wall of cheese’, ties in perfectly with the whole Man vs Food craze (disclaimer: contact restaurant 24 hours in advance to tackle the monster). Evening dining offers ample choice, with pastas and steaks supplementing the US-focused menu. A battered basket of fish is plentiful with bream, haddock and prawns, while a barbecue brisket of beef has been given the requisite cooking time to ensure the meat is sweet, sticky and tender. There’s always the possibility that chain restaurants will be overshadowed by their more popular siblings, whether through location or just general quality. The Ingram Street branch of Ad Lib just about stands up to the standards set in

4 HITLIST

NORTH AMERICAN 4 Buddy’s Bar Diner Grill Striking just the right tone in its immersion in the American-diner theme, Buddy’s has justifiably seen its popularity translate into a considerable and rapid expansion over the last year.

4 Burger Meats Bun With a head-chef who doubles up as a coowner, there is an assurance and confidence in the food. Specials are often Asian-inspired, underlining the kitchen’s creativity, and making every visit different.

4 Jacker de Viande Delivers what it promises: ‘meat, cocktails and love.’ Keeps it simple and rightly so as it is the stand-out burger haunt on West Regent Street and the wider city.

its flagship restaurant in Hope Street; a uniform menu guarantees consistency and a changing specials board provides scope for variation. + Gourmet burgers live up to billing - One shade décor could be brightened up

All Star Brunch Bar 531 Sauchiehall Street, West End See Cafés

Bar Gumbo 71–77 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 24) 0141 334 7132 | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Bar Gumbo is set apart from the recent and popular movement towards North American cuisine by adopting a regional identity. The New Orleans vibe is keenly felt through dishes that include Dixie-battered catfish and shrimp gumbos, while sides, such as homebaked cornbread, offer further evidence of a deep Southern flavour. Pumpkin pie scores on originality but lacks in execution; soggy pastry undoes what could be an innovative dish. Bar Gumbo boasts (arguably) the most impressive array of North American lagers and ales in the city, with the lesser known Dixie and Anchor Steam adorning the fridges. A similar amount of attention is paid to a Southern-inspired cocktail menu, with the Cajun Bloody Mary a highlight and perfect Sunday afternoon tipple. Somewhat surprisingly, Bar Gumbo stands as one of the few bars on Byres Road to host live music; the Bluesthemed bands who perform over the course of the weekend present a further deviation from the status quo. The bar/ lounge divide ensures diners can enjoy live music, a complementary backdrop to the soul food on offer. + Midweek po-boy lunch fantastic value - Southern fried vegetables disappointing The List Eating & Drinking Guide 165

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TABLE Talk

JONATHAN MACDONALD ON GLOBAL FOOD I used to travel a lot as head chef of the McLaren F1 team. It was great experience, but it was never really the glitz and glamour or the VIP parties that excited me. The thing I loved most was that I had to source the produce in every country the F1 season toured. My favourite time of the race week was always the Monday or Tuesday when we arrived and I’d get to go food shopping. One week I’d be in the trendy markets of cosmopolitan cities such as Melbourne or Montreal with incredible butchers, delis, fishmongers and grocery stalls. Places such as Monaco, Barcelona and Monza in the height of the summer had markets full of colour and smells with white peaches, vine tomatoes, fragrant green herbs, and giant juicy lemons, plus the amazing selection of regional cheeses and charcuterie. Those markets really did write the menu for me. I’d buy dried fruits, spices, olives and sticky balaclava from Istanbul’s ancient spice souk. I could have spent the week in Japan engrossed in the ingredients and precision. In Shanghai the gulf between where ordinary working people shop and the luxury food halls for the super-rich was a real eye-opener. Some of my most memorable meals have been eaten sitting on wee plastic stools in the night markets of Kuala Lumpur and Singapore – chilli crab, prawn laksa, fresh roti and a big ice bucket of beers. Another favourite was my first experience of churrascaria in Sao Paulo. I’ve been obsessed with food for as long as I can remember. Being lucky enough to cook and eat all over the world has fuelled my passion and had a big influence on a lot of the food at scoop and Ox & Finch. Q Jonathan MacDonald is ownerchef at Ox & Finch (see page 135) and Scoop. scoopevents.co.uk.

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Bread Meats Bread 102–104 St Vincent Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 75) 0141 249 9898, breadmeatsbread.co.uk | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

This later arrival to the Glasgow gourmet burger scene makes a serious case for a seat at the top table. Dry-aged Scotch beef burgers come in red label (mixed with spicy nduja pork sausage) and black label (premium cuts) as well as the house blend. Their Classic is juicy and full of flavour. It’s big, and it’s good value. Other inexpensive options like buttery, comforting grilled cheese sandwiches (with a soup dip), and full-beef hotdogs make Bread Meats Bread a very attractive option for street food that’s good food that’s not too dear food. The lack of alcohol and the street-level, airy layout also mean minimal restaurant-cum-bar vibes. This is no such place, and a pleasant change for it. There are favourites like cheesesteak on white (great onions) and smoked brisket on a pretzel bun. And they do chips, and sweet potato ones, but better still, poutines: a Quebecois dish of potato fries, curds and sauce. That’s right, Glasgow now has gourmet chips, cheese and gravy – we live in exciting times. + Quality, meaty treats - No alcohol

4 Buddy’s Bar Diner Grill 677–681 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: C3, 9) | £14 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Buddy’s, perhaps more than any other, epitomises the all-encompassing boom of the American-diner throughout the city. What began as a reasonable-sized takeaway now stands as a 60-seater restaurant that holds court on Pollokshaws Road. The recent addition of another takeout, plus residence at Kokomo, means the Buddy’s chain has expanded to four within the space of a year. Demand is such that a wait is likely although the high turnover of patrons means a swift turnaround of tables. Placemats, plastic baskets and bright lighting give the impression of a children’s party yet the food is seriously grown-up – The Duke, comprising of two patties, cheese and coleslaw is a mammoth yet thoroughly worthwhile undertaking. The Buddy’s Special – a homage to the original takeout? – is similarly impressive, arriving with bacon, mushrooms and caramelised onions. Each burger comes with the option of BBQ brisket or pulled pork, both of which have been braised with care and attention. Hickory smoked ribs are superb – tender, juicy and with a decent hit of mixed spices. In such a short time, Buddy’s has established something akin to a cultish following, and with four outlets, diners are now spoilt for choice. + Best ribs in the city - Garlic fries disappointing

4 Burger Meats Bun 48A West Regent Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 58) 0141 353 6712, burger-meatsbun.co.uk | Closed Mon | £13 (lunch) / £13 (dinner)

While the proliferation of burger joints throughout Glasgow has driven competition and upped the overall quality of the star attraction, it also brings the danger of uniformity. In many ways, Burger Meats Bun represents everything that has become synonymous with each incarnation – exposed brickwork, gingham placemats, burgers wrapped in greaseproof paper – yet there is a clear emphasis on detail that distinguishes it from the rest. Mains number six in total yet there is strength in this limitation; the Fiery burger is neatly assembled with chipotle mayo, jalapeños and crisp lettuce. Meat is sourced from the reputable Aberfoyle butcher and cooked to the merest hint of pink. Confit leg of chicken is used for

the Cluckin’ BLT – served with homecured and smoked bacon – giving the meat a richness that is nicely set-off with a punchy salsa verde. Thai chips are fantastic, triple-cooked, topped with spring onions, fresh chillis and melted cheese. House slaw, crunchy and not laden mayo, is a refreshing side that cuts through the carb indulgence. Dessert is the only disappointment, with mini donuts (very mini) paired with a thinned-down chocolate sauce. + Innovative cocktail menu - Restricted wine list

Buzzy’s Restaurant and Bar Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 110) 0141 248 3969, princessquare.tv | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Princes Square has become somewhat of a dining haven for shoppers. Among the eclectic range of dining options is Buzzy Wares, which has held residence in the square’s courtyard for over 25 years. The North American / Mexican menu plays it relatively safe (think nachos and quesadillas) but executes most to a high degree. Enfrijoladas – crisp tortilla topped with chipotle pork – makes for a sizable and punchy starter that is topped with pico de gallo and refritos. A salmon and pea fishcake is boosted by the addition of smoked fish and lifted by a sharp, homemade tartar sauce. A series of burgers, including a surprisingly well paired cajun spiced and blue cheese combination, accompanies fajitas, enchiladas, and meat dishes in a lengthy main course list. Artisan hot dogs, with a suggested pairing of Prosecco, also make an on-trend appearance. Cheesecake is a house speciality and justifiably so; the New York style of baking the dessert can prove tricky yet this is a fine example of how it can work. + Great for families - Menu very confused

Dennistoun Bar-B-Que 585 Duke Street (Map 7: D1, off) 0141 237 7200 | £10 (lunch) / £10 (dinner)

The Dennistoun Bar B Que is as rough and ready as it gets – formica tables, chipboard counter, with thick Glaswegian accents behind it. This new member of the ciy’s gourmet burger gang is certainly the most spartan, but prices are fair and it feels like a neighbourhood café that’s done its homework and updated its menu more than anything else. The pulled pork and the brisket are smoked for 18 hours and are firm favourites – all the juicy, smoky tenderness one expects, with red cabbage coleslaw and skinny fries (lots of). Burgers – made by a local butcher – are decent enough, but not the full-on flavoursome and pink ones that can be found elsewhere, mac ’n’ cheese needs to be cheesier, and presentation is a wee bit sorry, everything placed on a tray, no baskets, no wax paper. Its best selling point may be its East End location. Nowhere else nearby is doing this, and as Glasgow’s love affair with ‘dude food’ continues, there’s a smokyAmericana joint in every neighbourhood – this is Dennistoun’s. + Pulled pork comes to the East End - Décor is very basic if you sit in

Di Maggio’s Various Branches See Italian

4 Jacker de Viande 111 West Regent Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 54) 0141 243 2405, jackerdeviande. co.uk | £12 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Jacker de Viande’s owner Nick MacIntyre hit the headlines earlier this year due to his appearance in the fly-on-the-wall documentary, The Street. The programme laid bare the challenging and harsh reality

of the catering business. While coverage will have generated attention to his latest venture, this shouldn’t detract from the merits of its success. Situated on the most saturated burger strip in Glasgow, West Regent Street, Jacker de Viande sports the tagline: ‘meat, cocktails and love.’ Meat lovers will be buoyed to hear burgers are cooked to order, with the ‘classic’ served just the right shade of blushing pink. There is, too, a glorious celebration of pork, with bacon and pastrami topping two patties. Mac ’n’ cheese is all grown-up, topped with garlic breadcrumbs and a hint of truffle oil. The décor, commissioned to an art school student, is somewhat garish, with blood-red walls and animal heads on human bodies, reminiscent of a David Lynch scene. The interior is certainly a talking point, yet the meat-lovers paradise that is Jacker de Viande means that it more than stands up to its hype. + Innovative and changing cocktail menu - Lack of single vegetarian dish on menu

Ketchup • 44 Ashton Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 32) 0845 166 6011, ketchupwestend.co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner) • 1179 Pollokshaws Road, Southside (Map 8: A5, 23) 0141 649 0944, ketchupsouth. co.uk | £16 (lunch) / £16 (dinner)

With so many bars and restaurants on offer, Ashton Lane is, frequently, its own night out; you don’t have to move very far to find your next destination. By not taking bookings and providing an electronic buzzer for all waiting tables, Ketchup has recognised how self-contained the cobbled lane is. As whimsical as the names of their burgers are – Zorba the Greek and The Incredible Hulk are standouts – Ketchup is serious about its primary dish. Aberdeen Angus meat comes from the reputable Simon Howie butchers and with its provenance stated on the menu, responsible sourcing is stressed. Highland venison and kobe burgers provide a departure from the norm, with the former mixed with redcurrants and nicely paired with an apple and ale chutney. Homemade ketchup (hence the name) is delicious and a fairly unique selling point – although hot sauce, of any variety, is conspicuous in its absence. Considering the current proliferation of burger joints, Ketchup deserves credit for being ahead of the curve – it opened in 2008 – by maintaining the quality of its central feature, chances are it will stay on trend. + 2-for-1 burger offer throughout the week (with matric card) - Limited drinks menu

NY Slice 369 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: B2, 12) 0141 353 1698, nyslice.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £11 (dinner)

Rather easy to overlook amid Sauchiehall Street’s nightlife, NY Slice offers New York style ‘pies’ that are among the best pizzas in town. Born of the owner’s experience of an old pizza place in Greenwich Village, there’s a dedication at this informal diner to authentically replicating that unique NY style via matured dough, made and spun in house, then stone-baked to create an enticingly crispy yet chewy and foldable base. Fresh ingredients, from hand-crushed tomatoes and in-house marinaded meats to fresh-cut pineapple and garlic, create pizzas that are a real pleasure, vibrant with flavours rarely found on similar offerings. Ranging in size from grab-and-go slices to full 18-inchers, pizzas also come in square Sicilian deep-pan style with a lighter, fluffier base. Buffalo wings, pasta dishes, subs and enjoyable garlic knots that come with a meaty sauce for dipping bolster the menu. The smart tile-and-brick style interior includes a handful of tables, or use the delivery service covering G1–G5, and

NORTH AMERICAN

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beyond by arrangement. + Pizza pie flying high - Smack bang in Sauchiehall’s nightlife epicentre

Nic’s NYC Deli 50 St Enoch Square, City Centre See Cafés: Wee Places

St Louis Café Bar 734 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: A3, off) 0141 339 1742, stlouis-cafebar. co.uk | £9 (lunch) / £14 (dinner)

Distressed wood, mismatched chairs and informal service have become features of self-stylised restaurants looking to strike a feel of bohemianism. St Louis on Dumbarton Road pulls this off with an effortless charm and no sign of pretension – you get the distinct impression you are dining in a friend’s living room. Expect weekend service to be packed as St Louis has struck upon a residential area badly in need of a top-quality, laid-back brunch spot. Evening dining is loosely American but bistro classics, such as gourmet sausages and hearty pies, frequently make an appearance on the specials board. A goat’s cheese starter, served with homemade beetroot chutney and walnuts, wouldn’t be out of place in most upscale restaurants. Piggy in the Middle burger is impressive in both bulk and flavour, with pulled pork topping the patty and Cajun onion rings layered alongside. With the property owned by the Williams Bros, fridges and taps are well-stocked with craft beers. Open mic nights, plus regular readings, furthers the bohemian vibe and ensures St Louis is Dumbarton Road’s answer to Greenwich Village. + Best breakfast in Partick - Chicken and chorizo gumbo a bit bland

Skinny’s 61 Otago Street, West End See Bars & Pubs

Tribeca 102 Dumbarton Road, West End See Cafés

ROUND the WORLD This section is characterised by chains and family-run restaurants that take you on a culinary journey that includes South Africa, Poland, Greece and Brazil. Variety means that the quality is not uniform, but you can find real authenticity and a few pleasant surprises along the way. There is charm and good old-fashioned home-style cooked food out there. So choose your destination, be prepared to try something new, and you won’t be disappointed. Reviewers: Martin Cross, Donald MacInnes

Anatolia Chargrill TURKISH

140 St Vincent St, City Centre (Map 6: D4, 79) 0141 221 8777, anatoliachargrill. co.uk | £4.95/£6.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

The flames from the grill seductively lick the skewered meat in the open kitchen at the rear of this smart dining room. It’s real charcoal – not gas – and it all adds to the flavour of the cooking. The menu here is long, so the hot or cold lux meze platter is the ideal way for the indecisive diner to get a handle on the starters on offer. The lahmacun or Turkish pizza with minced meat, onion, peppers, tomatoes and parsley are a thin and crispy joy to eat either as a starter or a side. The pizza base is the homemade pide or Turkish flat bread which is in plentiful supply – just as well as it’s great. Some of the more unusual suspects among the mains include ciger, a chargrilled lamb’s liver dish. It can be a little dry, though, as it’s unadorned on the sauce front. The lamb in the yogurtlu

shish, however, is moist, tender and well cooked. Served with a yogurt and tomato sauce, it shows that they can cook a decent, tasty, traditional kebab. + Some unusual chargrill offerings - Filling up on the addictive bread

Boteco do Brasil

SOUTH AMERICAN 62 Trongate, Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 33) 07772 847311, botecodobrasil.com | £5 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

There’s always something going on at this enterprising pub-cum-restaurant near the Trongate. Open till 3am every night, there are weekly salsa classes, open-mic nights and plenty of live bands and DJs – as well as drinks promos and seasonal party nights. There’s also football on the big screen (watch out for World Cup action from Brazil this summer). Among all this frantic activity the food is rarely centre stage, but it’s (perhaps surprisingly) good, and affordable. A moqueca mista, for example, combines prawns and white fish with coconut, coriander, tomatoes and peppers in a huge casserole dish, with rice and farofa (cassava) on the side, for about £12 – the fish is delicate, the prawns generous in size and quantity, and the sauce is rich, mild and comforting. Other typically Brazilian dishes include feijoada – black beans with various meats – and xinxim, a chicken, cashew and peanut stew. Elsewhere the menu veers towards international pub food, namely pizza, pasta and burgers. You’d probably come here mostly for the atmosphere, cocktails and friendly Brazilian and Italian staff, but the food shouldn’t disappoint. + An excellent caipirinha cocktail - Shabby-chic décor is a bit more shabby than chic

Café Cossachok EUROPEAN

Trongate 103, 10 King Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B3, 36) 0141 553 0733, cossachok.com | Closed Mon | £6.95 (set lunch) / £18 (dinner)

There’s a genuine feel to Café Cossachock – as if it’s run as a service for homesick Russians rather than as a mere business opportunity. Dishes are the real deal – for example, beef stroganoff here is not the mushroomsand-sour-cream concoction we Brits enjoyed in the 1970s, but a rich tomato and paprika stew served with delicious straw potatoes, and a buckwheat blini is a thin, handkerchief-sized crêpe rather than a doughy little hors d’oeuvre. As well as meaty mains served with spuds, there’s a good line in blintzes – stuffed pancakes – and the ravioli-like pelmeni. Dishes from other ex-Soviet countries, like a herby Georgian chicken casserole and a Moldavian vegetable stew, add variety, and there’s a good choice for vegetarians. As much café as restaurant, Cossachock has an excellent choice of cakes, and you can nibble on a starter (or singlecourse lunch at only £4) if you don’t want to push the boat out. Décor is folksy without being over the top – they’ve used traditional shawls to line the ceiling, but they haven’t resorted to matryoshka dolls or Soviet posters. A busy events calendar includes lots of live music, including traditional Eastern European sounds as well as jazz. + Interesting, genuine food at affordable prices - Wine list is short and a bit dull

4 The Calabash Restaurant AFRICAN

57 Union Street, City Centre (Map 6: E5, 115) 0141 221 2711, thecalabashafricanrestaurant.co.uk | £9.50 (set lunch) / £12 (dinner)

Veldt Deli (page 168): authentic South African deli delights

4 HITLIST

This Union Street basement is as much a

ROUND THE WORLD 4 The Calabash Restaurant A little piece of Africa beneath Glasgow Central Station, Calabash delivers hearty, inexpensive food, a unique atmosphere, and a very warm welcome.

4 Nur Egypt on a plate. Everything is cooked fresh with no short cuts, from ingredients that are lovingly sourced and very well prepared.

4 Restauracja U Jarka Not much to look at, this small, charmingly authentic restaurant serves Polish food for Poles and enlightened diners who appreciate hearty great-value, no-frills food.

4 Veldt Deli A great addition to Glasgow’s West End café scene, serving authentic South African food cooked with lots of passion and skill.

meeting place for Glasgow’s tiny African community as it is a restaurant, with folk dropping in for a beer on the way home from work, catching up with friends and watching football on the big screen TV. Whenever you visit, chances are at least part of the space will be given over to a celebration – and as it’s really just one room divided by a beaded curtain, you’re kind of invited to the party. The food here seems almost secondary to the atmosphere, but it’s absolutely delicious stuff. Hearty, meaty African stews, soups and grills are the focus. Some are familiar – the Asian influence in East Africa accounts for curry and chapatis – while others are likely to be new to most Scots, like egusi soup made with melon seeds, goat meat and crayfish, served with pounded yam. With a clientele made up largely of expats, owned by a Kenyan couple, an African chef in charge of the kitchen and beers from the continent behind the bar, authenticity is beyond question. Great fun, and very inexpensive. + Interesting, authentic food - Erratic service

Cook and Indi’s World Buffet GLOBAL

• 46 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: E3, 62) 0141 332 3215, cookandindisworldbuffet.com | £6.99/£7.99 (set lunch) / £12.50 (dinner) • 410 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: B2, 13) 0141 333 9933, cookandindisworldbuffet.com | £6.99/£7.99 (set lunch) / £12.50 (dinner)

While many have been lamenting the demise of Dino’s on Sauchiehall Street, around the corner a new breed of diner is emerging with its sixth restaurant and second in Glasgow’s City Centre. Cook and Indi’s serves the ‘world on a plate’ in speedy. There’s Italian, naturally; then food from the next wave of UK immigration – Indian and Chinese; and The List Eating & Drinking Guide 167

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finally, the back-packers’ favourites of Thai and Japanese, with the recent additions of Mexican and Spanish food in their seeming plan for world (cuisine) domination. It would be easy to dismiss the idea as preposterously gimmicky and foodies may sniff at the buffet-style shifting of copious amounts of food. But the chefs, working in an open kitchen, replace dishes regularly given the amount of footfall the restaurants attract and the food is remarkably good. With a midweek lunch at a staggering £6.99 (and only a pound extra at weekends) it is easy to see why Cook and Indi’s has been so successful, and looks set to continue so. + Bargain buffet - Starting to feel like a big chain

Elià

GREEK 24 George Square, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 102) 0141 221 9988, eliagreekrestaurant.com | £6.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Recently refurbished, this restaurant is bright, airy and welcoming which matches the service, which is efficient, enthusiastic and knowledgeable. It’s a family affair and with olives grown and pressed in the family groves in Crete, the quality of ingredients is high. The starters offer a real taste of Greece, Crete in particular, and are the highlight here. The unusual dakos – or hard baked bread topped with tomatoes, feta and lashings of olive oil – is a hearty Cretan bruschetta style meal in itself. The smoked aubergine, feta fusion of the melitzanosalata, is a rich garlicky dip which transports you to the Med, while minced beef, rather than lamb, forms the basis of a rich moussaka. Medallions of beef in the soufrito are complemented rather than overpowered by the garlic and lemon. A greek Mythos beer or glass of retsina completes the Hellenic experience and, if you’re facing away from the windows, which look out on to George Square, you might just imagine you’ve been transported to a Greek isle. + Mezedes - Slightly dry moussaka

Frosoulla’s GREEK

39 Sinclair Drive, Southside (Map 8: D6, 29) 0141 649 7588, greekgoldenkebab. com | Closed Mon | £9.95 (inc. glass wine) (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Having moved across the road, the Greek Golden Kebab, has a new name to match it’s smart new two-storey dining room. A bottle of Greek beer or an elderflower gin and tonic is the ideal aperitif as you browse the menu. To start, the grilled halloumi comes with beautifully smoked Cyprus ham adding flavour to the traditional goat and sheep’s milk cheese. Kleftiko is the house speciality and the lamb, as promised, falls from the bone, beautifully cooked with herbs. Of the main courses, it’s a stand out and a better option than the less successful afelia, or pan-fried pork fillets. For dessert, try the Greek mix, a portion of kataifi (a sweet shredded filo pastry), alongside paklava (crispy filo pastry layered with nuts and honey). The set menu or mezedes is an ideal way to try a good range of the dishes on offer and at £19.95 for four courses, is good value. The welcome is warm and friendly and the restaurant is busy, proving that the regularly returning patrons approve of the move. + Kleftiko - beautifully cooked lamb on the bone - Disappointing pork fillets

Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant MONGOLIAN

26 Candleriggs, Merchant City, 168 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 29) 0141 552 5646, khublaikhan.co.uk | £8.95 (set lunch) / £22.95 (set dinner)

Mongolian barbecue may be a gimmick, but it can be a lot of fun, and this large Merchant City establishment is the place to experience it. It works like a buffet, but you pick the food before it’s cooked, assembling the ingredients for a stir-fry from selections of raw meat, seafood, vegetables, rice and noodles. You add your chosen combination of sauces, spices and herbs from another bewildering selection and hand your bowl to the chef, who throws it onto a huge, flat griddle, where it’s flipped around until cooked and brought to your table in a little metal bowl. You can go back as often as you like (if you’re paying for the full-feast; there’s a limit for pre-theatre and lunch), working your way through a good selection of exotic meats like alpaca, zebra and kangaroo as well as more familiar beef, chicken and monkfish. There are suggestions for combining sauces and spices, or you can make it up as you go along. Starters and dessert are part of the deal, but hardly necessary. Potentially a good choice for a boozy night out with friends from work, it’s the kind of place you’re likely to love or hate. Lots of people love it. + Exotic meats - Erratic combinations

Las Iguanas

SOUTH AMERICAN 16–20 West Nile Street, City Centre (Map 6: E4, 91) 0141 248 5705, iguanas.co.uk | £11 (lunch) / £17 (dinner)

Newly opened in early 2014, the Glasgow outpost of Las Iguanas had already created sufficient buzz to fill up midweek soon after arriving – and with room for 200 diners plus a few at the bar, it’s a big place. There are now over 30 restaurants in the chain (and there are more to come, including Edinburgh) so the concept is clearly working. It’s a kind of pan-Latin mix of spicy food, powerful cocktails, sinuous music and appealing interior design, including beautiful ceramic floor tiles and great lighting. The menu hops around a bit, with Mexico and Brazil the main points of reference. Guyanese pepperpot is a rich mutton stew with clove, orange and cinnamon mingling to create a complex and satisfying flavour. Tacos with crisply battered fish and sweet chilli sauce may not be particularly authentic, but provide an ideal foil for sharp margaritas and caipirinhas. A flexible menu includes burgers and salads, while a ‘sharing tray’ and (mostly Tex-Mex style) tapas lend themselves to light snacking with drinks. Main-course portions are generous, but it’s worth leaving room for good-looking puds. + Great atmosphere when busy - There’s no forgetting it’s a chain experience

4 Nur

AFRICAN 22 Bridge Street, City Centre (Map 6 : D7, off) 0141 258 2326, nur-restaurant.co.uk | Closed Mon | £18 (dinner)

Bacon and scrambled eggs might sound like an odd way to start a meal – but when the bacon is basterma (Egyptian air-dried beef) and the eggs are infused with Egyptian spices, and it’s cooked fresh by chef patron Ali Hammudah, it works very well. It sets the bar high and the rest of the culinary offerings do not disappoint. This is simply a great place to eat, where humble hummus and charcoal-grilled cuts are elevated to surprising heights. Baba ghanoush, a deliciously, creamy, garlicky, aubergine dip is made using homemade yogurt. In fact, there are no shortcuts here – even

the beetroot garnish is home-cooked. Chicken shawerma is creamy and baked to melting perfection. The dessert menu is short but a date and toffee pudding is a moist lighter version of the more commonly available sticky toffee version. The surroundings may be a little tired and predictable but the quality of the food will soon take your mind off the soft furnishings. + Food is cooked from scratch – no short cuts - Not the most accessible location

4 Restauracja U Jarka POLISH

Sikorski Polish Club, 5 Parkgrove Terrace, West End (Map 9B: D1, 18) 07756 970306, polskarestauracja.co.uk | £12 (dinner)

Substance over style is the best way to describe this wonderfully authentic family-run Polish eatery. The food is the main attraction here and words like hearty, wholesome and bargain are best to describe it. The soups deserve special mention with Polish borsch and dumplings a delicious beetrooty way to start. All the portions are generous and the breaded pork filled with spinach and garlic is rich, moist and tender. The duck with apple and cranberry may not be pretty, but is large, well cooked and packed with flavour. Dumplings stuffed with soft cheese are a must – they are all different shapes, proving that these are made by hand. Everything is homemade here and the apple and fruit tart dusted with cinnamon is a great finale. Don’t come if you like your food in small bitesize chunks, or if you like your restaurant to have a plush interior. Do come if you like great tasting, authentic, heart-warming food that leaves you smiling, replete and charmed. The secret is out. + Great grub - Needs a refurb

Tropeiro

SOUTH AMERICAN 363 Argyle Street, City Centre (Map 6: C5, 127) 0141 222 2102, tropeiro.co.uk | £10.95 (set lunch) / £21.95 (set dinner)

This is a rodizio, a Brazilian style, all the meat you can eat meal. Set your coaster to red and the meat stops coming – leave it at green and the busy, eager, waiter will keep offering you more slices of chicken, lamb, beef, or pork. The results are mixed. The pork sausages, for example, were pretty plain and would not have looked out of place in a full Scottish breakfast. The picanha, the cap of rump (Brazil’s favourite cut), however, is a delicious piece of beef cooked mediumrare with lots of flavour. The leg of lamb is also well worth a try marinated in sea salt, garlic, rosemary and lime. So save yourself for the best cuts of meat and don’t fill up on the salad bar either. Although that won’t be too much of a challenge – it’s a little uninspiring, though hardly the reason people come here. + The Picanha. Well cooked cap of rump steak - The salad bar

4 Veldt Deli

SOUTH AFRICAN 407 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A, F2, 80) 0141 237 3352, veldtdeli.co.uk | £7.50 (lunch)

Meaty bunny chow is a South African dish consisting of a hollowed out, small bread loaf, filled with chicken or lamb Cape Malay curry. Chef/patron Gisela Hans, a native of Cape Town, ensures the curry is deliciously tangy and delicately spiced. Served with flaked almonds and a coriander-infused tomato salsa, it’s a wholesome, filling lunch that tastes

as good as it sounds. Veldt deli is a daytime venue that deserves attention. The biltong is great. Silverside beef, home-dried, spiced and sliced to provide a really good South African style meaty snack. Ask for some as you peruse the small but well-formed menu that provides some culinary diversions away from the usual café suspects. Red bush tea is very evident, as you might expect, but the red coffee selection, made with the red bush leaf, offers an interesting alternative to the cocoa bean version – which is also available should you feel the need for caffeine. This is a great place to try something a little different, that won’t take you too far out of your comfort food zone. + Traditional South African food made with love - Closed in the evening

Viva Brazil

SOUTH AMERICAN 87–91 Bothwell Street, City Centre (Map 6: C4, 81) 0141 204 0240, vivabrazilrestaurants.com | £14.95/£17.95 (set lunch) / £24.95 (set dinner)

The rodizio style of serving at Viva Brazil is a committed carnivore’s dream, with virtually unlimited quantities of freshly grilled meat served at your table until you’ve had enough, for one inclusive price. Rump, sirloin and rib of beef, as well as lamb, chicken and pork, are grilled on long sword-like spits over a charcoal pit, then entrusted to carvers who take it from table to table. You accept a slice or two of anything you fancy, remembering there are 15 to try – if you miss the smoked gammon or the chicken heart, there’ll be another one along in a minute. Meanwhile a buffet table provides carbs and salads, and waiting staff take orders for cocktails, beers and wine from an impressive list including hard-to-find Brazilian and other Latin American bottles. The quality of the meat is high but the variety of cuts naturally means you’ll enjoy some more than others – a cap of beef rump with garlic is irresistibly tender and flavourful, while pork coated in parmesan is perhaps an acquired taste. The hangar-like space (it seats 250) doesn’t make for an intimate experience, but the rodizio only works well with lots of people, and it makes for a cheerful, busy atmosphere. + Delicious flame-grilled meat - Cavernous interior - you’ll love it or hate it

Yiamas Greek Taverna GREEK

16–20 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: F3, 65) 0141 353 1386, yiamasglasgow. webs.com | £6.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Utilitarian yet authentic, Yiamas dishes up enjoyable Greek food just off the main shopping drag of Buchanan Street from its open kitchen complete with charcoal grill. Meze starters include hummus and spanakopitakia – filo stogies sealing in a mix of feta, spinach and dill. Bakes such as moussaka, and kleftico (lamb) and stifado (rabbit) stews feature alongside souvlakia of skewered grilled meat with pitta, salad and chips, including a herby lamb version. Greek salad is big with chunky vegetables and feta and doused in olive oil and wine vinegar. All desserts are homemade, such as baklava, and wines are Greek. Yiamas also do good gyros, available to go, comprising gyro (marinated pork shoulder), spit-grilled and wrapped up in a pitta with tzatziki, tomatoes and peppers. [Not recently visited.] + Hero gyros - Not the cosiest venue

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SCOTTISH With the Commonwealth Games, Ryder Cup and the Year of Homecoming, 2014 is a big year for Scotland the brand, and with tourists set to descend upon Glasgow it is set to be a busy year for the city’s Scottish restaurants. While Scottish cuisine in the city has always sat in shadow of its Michelinfriendly east coast neighbour, there are a number of venues which have been producing world-class dishes for years, and in some cases, decades. These have been joined by a number of innovative, progressive chefs, giving Glasgow locals and visitors to the city a diverse range of restaurants serving up the very best that Scotland’s world famous larder has to offer, from classic fine dining to fresh new contemporary spots in the trendiest parts of the city. Reviewers: Malcolm Jack, Kevin Scott

Arisaig 1 Merchant Square, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 20) 0141 553 1010, arisaigrestaurant.co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

They pay a great deal more than lip service to local sourcing at Arisaig. See the whole pig from Berwickshire’s Peelham Farm that they keep in the fridge – manager Naveed Rashid will gladly show you a photo on his phone if you ask – for the celebration of pork among other dishes, or the full Fife deer they carve up and store towards wild venison casserole or duo of game (as paired with wood pigeon). Merchant Square is the urbane setting, with the restaurant, like its neighbours, sprawling out of its compact premises into the covered courtyard, for that outdoors-indoors feel (there’s also

a mezzanine above, presently used for special events or as an overspill on busy days). Poached pear and blue cheese salad makes for an agreeably light starter, with the mains generally erring on the heavier side, though picking out the fruit and fromage among a forest of rocket is harder than it should be. The hand-cut sirloin steak comes with a big bowl of thick-cut chips, fried whole mushrooms and more rocket, and while not the best cut of meat you’ll find in its price-range, it’s well cooked and will satisfy the biggest of appetites. Try the crunchy cranachan ice-cream to finish. + Real, demonstrable commitment to local sourcing - Giant TV screen in the square is a bit of a conversation killer

Bo’Vine Meats and Wines 385 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: D1, 53) 0141 341 6540, bovinerestaurant. com | £26 (dinner)

The phrase ‘chain hotel steakhouse’ doesn’t exactly scream culinary excellence, but this restaurant in the Hilton at the top of Byres Road mostly outstrips expectations by some margin, and is in truth quite a bit less focused on cow cuts than the name suggests, with Scottish fish, seafood and lamb also featuring heavily. Refurbished within the last year, the décor is gentlemen’s-club smart, if relatively anonymous between the standard-issue red leather-backed chairs and stone-effect wall panels. The hot-smoked salmon croustade – served marooned in the middle of an oversized white plate – tastes light and creamy and very fresh. The steaks are expertly handled; the chargrilled 9oz sirloin is smoky without being too dry, and feels about bang-on value at £19. You get a choice of two sides or sauces included with everything from the grill – the Dunsyre Blue cheese butter (not nearly as fatty as it sounds) is recommended, as are the chunky triple-cooked chips. The desserts are where the chefs really show off their chops – blackberry sponge is an unconventional delight, the cake’s

tartness offset with crispy chips of honeycomb and luscious lavender and honey ice-cream. + Steak – many restaurants will charge more for an inferior piece of meat - Awkward tables made with scant consideration for where to put your feet

The Bothy 11 Ruthven Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 41) 0141 334 4040, bothyrestaurant. co.uk | £12.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

Few other restaurants in Glasgow wear their Scottishness quite as literally as G1’s the Bothy, tucked away down Ruthven Lane in the heart of the West End – see the waiting staff’s signature kilts for proof. Exposed stone walls and a rustic old chunky wooden fireplace add to the Highland hideaway feel, while the menu promises ‘traditional Scottish fayre and a warm welcome’. It’s all a bit shortbread tin, but it’s popular with tourists and visiting students and lecturers at nearby Glasgow University, and underwritten by a genuine commitment to local and seasonal sourcing, much as that same willingness to go the extra mile doesn’t always seem to extend to the preparation and presentation. The Cullen skink is a Scottish classic well done – thick, flavoursome and filling. The rump of Ayrshire lamb with sautéed potatoes’ weakness is in the serving – stacked in a bowl, the black pudding quickly becomes a gooey swamp mixed with the red wine jus. Still, the Braw Deal of two courses for £12.95 all day until 6pm offers braw value, while the two private dining rooms – the Scullery upstairs and the smaller Snug down – are a good shout for special occasions. + Garden is a great little sun-trap on summer evenings - Service is brisk but staff seem spread thin

Brasserie 19 19 New Kirk Road, Bearsden, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

The Brasserie at Òran Mór 731–735 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: D1, 54) 0141 357 6226, oran-mor.co.uk | Closed Mon | No Kids except Sun | £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Cail Bruich (page 170): masterful cooking in a classy setting

After the adjoining concert venue and function facilities and buzzing barrestaurant, the Brasserie at Oran Mor is probably the least well-known and frequented part of this multi-faceted old church complex at the corner of Byres and Great Western roads. But under new management as of late 2013, much is being done towards more fully realising its undoubted potential. A previously confusing array of menus have been boiled down to a trim pre-theatre and à la carte, with a business lunch added to try and pull in more daytime clientele. Visually it’s all the neo-gothic moodiness you’d expect of a former 19th century church building – dark oak floors and panelling, Rennie Mackintosh-esque ornate fittings – but with a cosy, almost speakeasy feel in the huge booths that line one wall and especially the cocktail bar corner (they’re open until 3am at weekends). Warm Sainte Maure cheese with honey-roast almonds and courgette ribbons is a simple starter elegantly done. The roast pork loin is a tad dry, not helped by a parsimonious dribble of Calvados jus, though juicy braised red cabbage is practically a dressing in itself. Dessert wise, you could do a lot worse than lemon tart with Earl Grey ice-cream for a refreshing finish. + Great value pre-theatre deal - Loos are a trek – three floors up by elevator

The Brasserie at the Chip 12 Ashton Lane, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

The Cabin 996–998 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: A3, off) 0141 569 1036, cabinglasgow.com | Closed Mon | £13.95 (set lunch) / £13.95 (set dinner)

Only just taken under new management at time of visiting, this small restaurant on the Whiteinch stretch of Dumbarton Road is understandably still in a state of flux – with just a two- or three-course set-menu available to choose from all day long as the à la carte menu, pre-theatre menu and wine list are finalised. But the friendly, unfussy feel that’s made it a firm neighbourhood favourite – albeit one without too much competition close by – has been successfully carried over, and the quality of the cuisine remains high. The art deco-style exterior immediately sets The Cabin apart from its relatively featureless surrounds, and good use has been made of the living-room sized space, which is decorated with vintage nautical miscellany in honour of its Clydeside heritage. Fishcakes with salad, sweet chilli sauce and garlic mayo, or spiced venison meatballs served on egg noodles are among typical starters – simple but smartly presented. A main of duck with dauphinois potatoes is given a sophisticated twist by a brandy and orange sauce. Dispensation may have to be granted for awkwardness in the service, especially when it’s busy, but once new owners bed in it’s easy to imagine this place continuing to enjoy faithful local patronage. + Nice buzz and atmosphere - Halogen heater in the dining room

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Café Source 1 St Andrew’s Square, Merchant City (Map 7: C4, 43) 0141 548 6020, cafesource. co.uk | £13.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

There aren’t many grander approaches to a restaurant in Glasgow, with the majesty of St Andrew’s church looming as you approach this stylish venue. Despite low ceilings it feels open and modern, like a chic cavern equally accommodating of large groups and romantic couples. Buzzing with life before events upstairs, chef Kenneth Donachie has marshalled the kitchen since the venue opened in 2000 and the passion for quality local dishes is apparent from the chalk-drawn maps of Scotland upon the walls, each illustrating the links between areas of the country and the menu. Starters include a deep, creamy Cullen skink, while mains such as a slowbraised daube of beef on a bed of haggis mash are on the right side of rich. Some dishes have continental cues; a lamb shank rests on smoky chorizo and potatoes. For those dining on something lighter, a sandwich and burger menu provides plenty of choice, including an appealing haggis beefburger. Desserts are carefully considered and Orkney fudge cheesecake is a glorious way to end. + Depth of variety on the menu - Long bar can make it feel a bit pub-like

proper signage on nearby streets. But its hidden-away feel is one of its qualities, too. When the West End’s few betterknown beer gardens overflow on rare sunny days, this bar’s rows of unshaded pitch-side picnic benches are well worth bearing in mind – especially if you like rugby. A modern build with a glass frontage, white walls and stainless-steel fittings and furnishings, Café Source Too looks a little on the sterile side, but staff do much to make your welcome warm, and the food is consistently of a very good standard. The Ramsay of Carluke’s haggis fritter is well complemented with a tangy beetroot chutney. There’s always a couple of specials on the board, with fish featuring prominently – the beer-battered coley served with thick hand-cooked fries and garden peas is a classy take on a simple favourite. You’ll feel like hitting the club gym just after reading the description of the Scottish ice-cream sundae. Laced with tablet, macaroon and caramel shortcake bits, it’s a marvellous mess of a finish. + Quality continental lagers and guest cask ales – a properly good bar - Clubhouse feel won’t appeal to all

Cail Bruich that feels a little special. It could be the informal yet sophisticated atmosphere, or the professionalism of the staff. Or the conceptual amuse-bouche, or the incredible standard of the cooking itself. However, it’s a combination of all these parts that makes it stand out. An impressive tasting menu is available, while the market menu, at £17 for two courses, is a steal. Among the mains is a beef cheek in beer sauce. Combined with gratin, kale and three types of onion, no two mouthfuls are the same. This is a trick repeated on the à la carte menu, with chef Craig Charlambous plundering Scotland’s natural larder to create culinary art – scallops with curried cauliflower and capers is a masterful starter, while duck with pear and walnut continues the theme of a restaurant that goes beyond what is expected – for example, it doesn’t have to offer 26 wines by the glass, yet it does. A substantial upgrade is earmarked for later this year, which could see Cail Bruich hit even greater heights. + Masterful and creative cooking - Closed Mondays

Central Market

Café Gandolfi

51 Bell Street, Merchant City See Bistros & Brasseries

64 Albion Street, Merchant City See Bistros & Brasseries

City Merchant

Café Source Too Hillhead Sports Club, 32 Hughenden Road, West End (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 357 6437, cafesourcetoo.co.uk | £5.95 (Mon–Fri) (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Cafezique

Situated in Hillhead Sports Club nestled down a lane in residential Hyndland, this sister venue to Café Source at St Andrew’s in the Square fights an ongoing battle literally to be noticed, with the council preventing them even putting up

4 Cail Bruich

66 Hyndland Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

725 Great Western Road, West End (Map 9A: D1, 55) 0141 334 6265, cailbruich. co.uk | Closed Mon | £14.95 (set lunch) / £31 (dinner)

There’s something about dining in

dining restaurant with an unpretentiously stylish air. With its floor to ceiling windows, bare brick walls and wood and metal fittings, close rows of tables at the front and on the mezzanine and a contemporary art-adorned low-lit back room, it feels Brooklyn chic. The menu sharply reminds you you’re still in the land of Ardunan pork and George Mewes cheeses, but doesn’t lower the hip tone an iota. A basket of fresh bread arrives still-warm out of the oven. A Scotch egg starter makes a motorway service-station staple look uncharacteristically trendy, by placing a big gooey-yoked duck egg in a thin crust of Stornoway black pudding and crispy breadcrumbs. A special of crab risotto can on request be swiftly re-tooled for veggies and still taste sensational. An apple, cinnamon and hazelnut crumble dessert is aromatically complemented by clove ice-cream. With owner-chefs Peter McKenna and Ivan Stein in the kitchen, you can be sure of the bosses putting their money where your mouth is with every bite. + Pre-Hydro early-dining menu makes this a great choice before a concert - They’re missing a trick with such a limited beer selection

The Giffnock Ivy 97–99 Candleriggs, Merchant City (Map 7: C2, 22) 0141 553 1577, citymerchant. co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

It’s a measure of a venue’s success that after 26 years of trading it can still pack them in midweek as well as at weekends. City Merchant has cleverly made the most of the demand for setmenu promotions but importantly, has not shirked on quality. The pre-theatre, at £12.50 for two courses, is excellent value, but throughout, the emphasis is on freshness, and the à la carte menu and specials board contain some of the best fish dishes in the city, all in warm surroundings with stained glasstopped partitions offering intimacy. Oysters offer a tempting start, with tabasco and vodka on hand to wash them down, while a salmon Scotch egg is perfectly cooked, yolk oozing out into the accompanying lemon curd. The bouillabaisse components change with the catch, and feature the likes of hake, scallops, mussels and langoustines among a carnival of seafood presented in a tangy tomato broth. Meat dishes are less expressive, but equally worthy. An in-depth wine list gives plenty to consider, while the convivial atmosphere makes dining a pleasure. + Fish doesn’t get much better - Bubbly only available by the bottle

Cottier’s Bar and Restaurant 93–95 Hyndland Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

219 Fenwick Road, Giffnock, Southside See Bistros & Brasseries

The Grill Room at the Square 29 Royal Exchange Square, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 108) 0141 225 5615, grillroomglasgow.com | £15.50 (set lunch) / £32 (dinner)

It’s all about the meat at the Grill Room. The menu is dominated with steak dishes, from three weights of New York-style sirloin, to ribeye, mignon, chateaubriand, T-bone and an eye-wateringly expensive kobe fillet. The venue itself is on the first floor of private members’ club 29, and is suitably attired, though it is beginning to tire a little and some loving attention would return its air of exclusivity. The typical crowd ranges from couples to shoppers and those on business. Starters include an attractively presented salmon rillette or haggis fritter served with its familiar accompaniments. Fish changes daily, though the cod fillet on spiced couscous is let down by a flavoured mayonnaise dressing. Steak is king though and an eight-ounce fillet is photogenic, to say the least. Charred and perfectly cooked to the diner’s specification it comes with a range of complementary sauces and sides – though the wilted spinach could be livened up with some garlic or lemon. If possible, bag a window seat and watch Royal Exchange Square go about its business while you dine. + Huge variety of top-quality steaks - Mayonnaise doesn’t cut it as a dressing at this level

Crabshakk 1114 Argyle Street, West End See Fish

Fanny Trollope’s 1066 Argyle Street, West End See Bistros & Brasseries

Gamba 225a West George Street, City Centre See Fish

4 The Gannet 1155 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 22) 0141 204 2081, thegannetgla. com | Closed Mon | £15 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Of all the new openings within the last couple of years on the altogether transformed Finnieston strip on Argyle Street, the Gannet is arguably the most roundly welcome – an affordable fine170 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

4 Hotel du Vin Bistro 1 Devonshire Gardens, West End (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 339 2001, hotelduvin.com | £21.95 (set lunch) / £40 (dinner)

From the plush entrance vestibule and manager’s greeting, to the opulent décor and restrained atmosphere of the bistro itself, Hotel du Vin knows how to do formal dining like no one else in Glasgow. For those with plenty of change jangling in their pockets, the tasting menu is £69 plus £40 for matching wine. We’re at the high end of the price scale here, but the quality is high end too, as exemplified throughout a visit. The menu changes regularly, but could feature the likes of scallops to start, served with oyster, caviar and squid ink noodles, the sum more than equalling the parts on the plate. For mains a daube of beef is densely flavoured yet light, while a chunky cut of monkfish

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4 HITLIST

SCOTTISH 4 Cail Bruich Artistic creations from a thoroughly progressive chef continue to make this West End venue among the best that Glasgow has to offer.

Number 16: compact and cosy dining at this West End favourite

topped with a lemon crust combines perfectly with a citrus risotto. Chef Barry Duff is new to the kitchen, but his combinations show that personality can accompany fine dining. This ‘formality with a smile’ is a philosophy shared by staff. And with a range of artwork desserts and a 600 bin wine list, the quality never wavers. + Setting standards in Glasgow dining - Chairs a little worn around the edges

Ian Brown Food and Drink 55 Eastwoodmains Road, Southside (Map 8: A5, off) 0141 638 8422, ianbrownrestaurant.co.uk | Closed Mon (except over Xmas) | £13 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

There’s something wonderfully reassuring about finding quality cooking outside the City Centre, so major kudos to former Ubiquitous Chip chef Ian Brown for opting to open his first restaurant in suburban Giffnock back in 2010. It’s hardly out of reach, with Williamwood station a five-minute walk away, but the vast majority of customers are locals, and most of them are regulars. That in itself says a lot. The venue is a modest family restaurant with contemporary décor and handmade wooden tables, buzzing with life thanks to staff whose service borders on the charismatic. A starter of bacon-wrapped monkfish with a spicy chickpea stew and pea purée gets the balance of a complex range of flavours spot on. Imaginative specials such as an open salmon tart with chargrilled veg, crispy and soft with every forkful, again impresses, though from the à la carte mains, a chicken with asparagus risotto is satisfying without reaching the same heights. Desserts are enormous fun, from tablet cheesecake to a gorgeous baked Alaska, and are treated with lots of care and attention – just like every customer. + Staff that make you feel as though you belong - Oblong plates can be a little awkward

Maggie May’s 60 Trongate, Merchant City (Map 7: C3, 32) 0141 548 1350, maggiemays.info | £6.95 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

There’s an undoubted rock and roll swagger to Maggie May’s, from the spirits bottles packed onto the circular bar gantry, to dark furnishings, low lighting and stereo volume often past the point of comfortable for refined dining. But no one stepping into the separate dining

area at this Trongate hotspot is there for a quiet supper. Aiming to serve familiar dishes with a Scottish twist, the menu – full of fish suppers and steak pies – is more aligned to pub fodder than white tablecloths. Standards are high though; among the vast range of burgers are a number of original creations – the Whole Hog is packed with flavour, pulled pork balancing the dryness of a black puddingtopped pork burger. And beneath perfectly golden potato slices, the chicken and haggis hotpot is as homely as your mum’s Sunday lunch. Desserts, too, maintain the Scottish focus – with the infamous deep-fried Mars bar an irresistible offer. With a late-night bites menu in full flow until the wee hours, there’s plenty to lure customers all day and night. + Wide range of quality burgers - Can become noisy at weekends

Metropolitan Merchant Square, Candleriggs, Merchant City See Bistros & Brasseries

Number 16 16 Byres Road, West End (Map 9A: B3, 22) 0141 339 2544, number16.co.uk | £11.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

You could live in the area for ages and possibly not even spot this tiny little bistro towards the foot of Byres Road, unflatteringly tucked away between a bookies and an Indian takeaway. With a mezzanine level squeezed in at not much above head-height, boosting capacity to just 40 covers, it’s beyond cosy. But what Number 16 lacks in space it makes up for in buzzy atmosphere and dishes with a high attention to detail, clashing the Scottish larder with cosmopolitan flavours. Chunky warped wood tables reflect a wholesome, earthy feel in the food – the poached ham hock starter is thick with spelt, barley and pickled vegetables, while a main of pan-fried sea bream fillet is served on a bed of braised split peas and sautéed kale. Pork belly is given an Asian twist with soy and shaosing broth and stir-fry greens. A Turkish delight dessert continues the world tour, as does the banana and peanut crumble, which again has Far Eastern flourish. Staff keep it personal – you may feel a little bit like you’re eating in someone else’s home kitchen at times – but never intrusive. Small but . . . well, you get the idea. + Lively vibe even in quiet spells

- Not for those who like their space while

dining

Rab Ha’s 83 Hutcheson Street, Merchant City (Map 7: B2, 8) 0141 572 0400, rabhas. com | Closed Sun–Tue (rest. only) | £11.95 (set lunch) / £19 (dinner)

This corner pub, restaurant and recently upgraded four-room boutique hotel is titled after 19th-century Merchant City native Robert Hall, whose overenthusiasm for good grub was so famous it earned him the nickname ‘the Glasgow Glutton’. Certainly, you ought to bring your appetite to Rab Ha’s. They don’t scrimp on the portions, be it the fantastic West Coast seafood chowder starter floating with mussels, shells and all, served with a pile of fresh bread, or the sticky toffee pudding, sponge stacked twice-high. The upstairs bar, with its open fire, is cosier than the tartanwallpapered basement restaurant which – open Wednesday to Saturday – can feel a tad gloomy. Likeable staff do their bit to brighten the atmosphere, and the food is satisfying, if not entirely apt to description: the roast pork belly comes with a medley of colcannon mash, honeyglazed root veg with Scottish cider, Ayrshire-smoked bacon and thyme jus – everything except much pork, the fat and crackling layers being by far the heavier. You can count on getting a good Scottish pint with your meal here – there’s always a native guest cask ale on tap, be it Fyne Ales’ Jarl or brews from Isle of Skye and Cromarty brewing companies. + Excellent seafood chowder - Waiting staff could dress up a bit

4 Restaurant at Blythswood Square 11 Blythswood Square, City Centre (Map 6: C3, 50) 0141 248 8888, blythswoodsquare.com | £18.50 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

Inhabiting the handsome former RSAC building dominating Blythswood Square, the Blythswood Hotel remains best-known for its excellent cocktail bar. But the ground-floor restaurant is a similar handshake between style and substance. The dining room is bright and high-ceilinged, with signature red-frilled contemporary black lampshades and seats so comfy – be it a custom-made Harris Tweed cocktail chair or couches fit for inappropriate slouching – that you won’t want to get up. The market menu

4 The Gannet Understatedly stylish in both décor and its imaginative cuisine. A thoroughly welcome new addition, not just to on-the-up Finnieston but Glasgow at large.

4 Hotel du Vin Bistro Its formality may not be to everyone’s taste, but there’s no doubting how special an evening in this bistro can be, from the service to the surroundings and the high-end food itself.

4 Restaurant at Blythswood Square Forming a mean partnership with the cocktail bar upstairs, the Blythswood’s restaurant does glamorous Glasgow-style, with a refreshing lack of pretension.

4 Ubiquitous Chip Impossible to overlook on current form, and surely up there with its best in over 40 years of trading. Dishes are full of not just foodie flair but flavoursome integrity.

4 Wee Lochan Warm and welcoming with impressive cooking, proving that neighbourhood dining can rival the best of the city centre.

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offers great value and flexibility (£18.50 for two courses or £22 for three, day long) and is updated daily for seasonality and freshness. The pan-fried sea bass with sweetcorn cassoulet is fiddly to eat but otherwise a smart little dish. It’s hard to see past the grill for a main, be it steak, seared tuna loin, or succulent slices of duck breast served with chips thick as Jenga blocks. Brightly decorated with wings of thin chocolate, the white chocolate cheesecake topped with raspberry and pink peppercorn macaroons looks like it might fly away if you don’t eat it fast enough. If you can face hoisting yourself back onto your feet, head upstairs to the cocktail bar, where waiters will intuitively custom mix a drink to your taste and mood. + Possibly the comfiest restaurant in Glasgow - Ice-cream/sorbet at £2 a scoop

Roastit Bubbly Jocks 450 Dumbarton Road, West End (Map 9A: A3, off) 0141 339 3355, roastitbubblyjocks.co.uk | £14 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Back in the 18th century, turkeys were reared on hills not far from where this popular, contemporary neighborhood venue now resides. When cooked, the birds were known as Roastit Bubbly Jocks, so while the restaurant’s name stands out for its seemingly abstract etymology, it’s perfectly fitting and in-tune with the owners’ philosophy of locally sourcing produce for the carefully chosen menu. Dishes change seasonally, but firm favourites such as scallops with Stornoway black pudding and apple purée provide a biting, peppery introduction. A pork belly and black pudding salad with mango chutney isn’t as successful,

the component parts feeling too heavy, the leaves too light. Mains include a huge portion of chicken with chunky boulangère potatoes that will satisfy the most hungry of diners. The specials board is always worthy of examination – sea bream tastes so fresh it could have been caught from the Clyde after the order was placed, its skin perfectly crispy. The drinks range is limited due to space, but the wine list is well selected and the atmosphere always welcoming. + Warm neighbourhood vibe - Pork and black pudding salad too heavy

black pudding wrapped in a soft pastry roll with caramelised onions and whisky cream, or vegetarian haggis attractively served in a big upturned portobello mushroom. Specials can include a hearty homemade pork, leek and mushroom pie topped with butter pastry. Desserts like puff candy meringue with honeycomb ice-cream and hot butterscotch sauce will leave you with a childlike feeling of sugary sweet contentment. + Comfortable and homely feeling - Décor looks dated

The Sisters Kelvingrove The Shandon Belles 652 Argyle Street, City Centre See Bistros & Brasseries

The Sisters Jordanhill 1a Ashwood Gardens, 512 Crow Road, West End (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 434 1179, thesisters.co.uk | Closed Mon | £14.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

With its own private car park outside and Jordanhill train station located literally right across the street, inaccessibility is no excuse for putting off a visit to this suburban restaurant situated in the attic of a row of shops on Crow Road (entrance up some steps to the rear), which is twinned with the Sisters Kelvingrove. But judging by the intimately convivial atmosphere, and the first-name-terms greetings staff exchange with several patrons, there’s a feeling that most regular diners at the Sisters Jordanhill don’t travel far to eat here. This is neighbourhood dining on a homely Scottish theme, and owner-chef Pauline O’Donnell does much more imaginative, cliché-avoiding things in her kitchen than the slightly cheesy tartan upholstery in the compact but cosy dining room would imply. Like Macleods

36 Kelvingrove Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 28) 0141 564 1157, thesisters. co.uk | £15.95 (set lunch) / £25 (dinner)

Having benefitted from a refurbishment that includes murals by Philip Raskin, Sisters Kelvingrove feels slick, clean and modern. Lively banter from tourists and locals alike fill the restaurant with a heartening warmth that is replicated in every dish. The focus here is home cooking with bells on, something that co-owner Jacqueline O’Donnell has been perfecting for a decade. A philosophy of provenance pulses through the menu, from Uist scallops or Shetland mussels

ONLINE LISTINGS For full opening hours, further details on facilities, individual location maps and links, go to

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to Arran pumpkin croquettes – huge deep-fried fingers resting on a tangy salsa. Ramsay’s ham is good enough to generate audible exclamation, and portions won’t leave diners wanting for much either. Similarly, a cod fillet on grilled chorizo in a spiced broth shows that Scottish ingredients are well suited to global influences. It’s the sort of venue that makes you want to stay for dessert and after-dinner drinks – which if the chocolate fondant with coconut ice-cream is anything to go by, is a solid decision. And 2014 is set to be a big year, too – with O’Donnell starring in a reality TV cooking programme, so interest in the venue could soon rocket. + Scottish hospitality and provenance all in one - Limited choice of wines by the glass

Stravaigin 28–30 Gibson Street, West End (Map 9A: F3, 74) 0141 334 2665, stravaigin.com | £12.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Named from an old Scottish word meaning ‘to wander aimlessly with intent’, Stravaigin, more than any other restaurant in Glasgow, brings Scottish produce together with global ideas and influence, and harvests an eclectic menu that keeps exciting even those who’ve dined there for 25 years. The bar upstairs is brimming with locals, vibrantly lit and welcoming, but descend into its basement restaurant, past the open kitchen, and you’re in for a real treat. To start, a crab and cucumber cannelloni is fresher than a westerly breeze, the accompanying Waldorf salad packed with flavour. For mains, it’s worth looking beyond staples such as haggis, fish suppers and burgers, to more intriguing dishes such as venison loin accompanied by a venison stew in

MARKET MENU Enjoy a 2 or 3 course set menu lunch or dinner fresh from the local Glasgow Markets. 2 Courses £18.50 3 Courses £22.00

LIGHT BITES

AFTERNOON TEA

Enjoy a selection of sandwiches, salads, tapas and sharing platters.

Enjoy our traditional tea or try something a bit different. ‘Tea Tox’ for those ‘being good’ and ‘Blasad Albannach’ a celebration of all things Scottish.

Ideal when you need a snack whilst enjoying one of our famous Blythswood Square cocktails. What better way to relax than a Boozy Snoozy afternoon. 3 courses from our Market Menu, coffee and bottle of Prosecco. £88 for a table of 4

BOOZY SNOOZY 172 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

Priced £22 per person

No.11 Blythswood Square Glasgow, G2 4AD reserve@blythswoodsquare.com T: 0141 248 8888

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gingerbread casing – it’s perhaps too bold, but markedly different. A hake fillet complete with chicken wings is a triumph, the flavours faultless, the accompanying salad balancing both. Desserts, too, hold many surprises, and come complete with matching wines – of which the full list is hugely impressive, while the beer offer keeps improving. Stravaigin remains a Glasgow institution for countless reasons, each as thrilling as the next. + Eclectic and exciting menu . . - . . . but some dishes have too much going on

Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery 652 Argyle Street, West End See Fish

4 Ubiquitous Chip 12 Ashton Lane, West End (Map 9A: C2, 34) 0141 334 5007, ubiquitouschip.co.uk | £15.95 (set lunch) / £28 (dinner)

Any one of various elements alone merit visiting Ubiquitous Chip. The setting is unique, relaxed and stylish, in a covered greenery-draped cobbled courtyard with delightful little design quirks such as sliced-in-half vintage glass drinks decanters hung as lampshades (and their stoppers turned into a kind of chandelier). The service exudes at once confident authority and down-to-earth charm. The wine list is long, and the food is near-flawless. All of these elements in combination make the Chip still one of Glasgow’s quintessential fine-dining experiences after more than 40 years on the scene. A starter of dulse-cured salmon served with a bright blood orange and caper salad and langoustine oil typifies dishes finely balanced between theatrical presentation and loads of substance in terms of ingredients and flavours. Grilled sea bass fillet flakes pleasingly off the skin, and is complemented wonderfully by a light saffron and mustard cream. The Caledonian oatmeal ice-cream continues to live up to its ‘famous’ self-styling, though even better is the chocolate cake with Earl Grey ice-cream. Gorgeous little macaroons and cubes of Turkish delight laid-on with coffee are irresistible no matter how satiated. This is food so good it leaves your hunger no place to hide. + Various bars and restaurants give the place a buzz even on a quiet afternoon - À la carte prices jump up compared to very reasonable lunch/pre-theatre deal

4 Wee Lochan 340 Crow Road, West End (Map 9A: A1, off) 0141 338 6606, an-lochan.com | £11.95 (set lunch) / £23 (dinner)

Entering Wee Lochan feels less like stepping inside a restaurant and more like taking a seat in a friend’s living room. From the fireplace, to the dark carpet and artwork (which is for sale), there’s a familial allure to the venue. It’s no wonder that local couple Aisla and Rupert Staniforth continue to lure diners from across the city to their neighbourhood hotspot. The food is the main attraction, of course, faithfully Scottish with Mediterranean and FarEastern twists in some cases. The parsnip soufflé shows the extent of the ambition – fantastic looking, with a light, airy interior beyond the crisp cheesy exterior. A port sauce accentuates the subtleties of the venison haunch, accompanied by fluffy parsnip fritters, while fish dishes includes a sea bass with citrusy couscous. Desserts are pleasing, and the Scottish dedication continues with a small but impressive range of local beers. And to top it all off, Aisla’s stories of life as a restaurateur, which accompany the menus, are an absolute joy. + Ambitious creations across the menu - Some tables a little close together

SPANISH

TIP/,67 FOR SET LUNCH DEALS • Arisaig Affordable lunchtime luxury at the Merchant Square 169 • Cail Bruich Inventive Scottish dishes impeccably cooked 170 • City Merchant A tenner for top quality Merchant City dining 170 • The Gannet Finnieston’s ﬁnest serving imaginative cuisine

170

• Guy’s Restaurant & Bar Exceptional food at this impressive favourite 135 • Ian Brown Food and Drink Classic cuisine from an accomplished chef 171 • Mother India Cooly priced curries from the spicy matriach 158 • Number 16 Small lunch bill to match this compact diner 171 • Simply Fish Bargain menu at this neighbourhood restaurant

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• Ubiquitous Chip A tantalising taste of the city’s best at Ashton Lane 173

Glasgow’s Spanish options have a much-needed shot in the arm this year with a number of new openings aiming to bring a taste of tapas to the city. For casual dining, the tapas way is popular, not just in this section but across others, showing that a little Iberian flair and style in the kitchen is a big draw for diners. Reviewer: Emily Henderson

Barça Tapas and Cava Bar Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, City Centre (Map 6: F5, 110) 0141 248 6555, barcatapas.co.uk | £9.95 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

Located on the top floor of the lovely Princes Square shopping centre, Barca Tapas is a classy establishment. Grab a seat at one of two terrace areas, and peruse the extensive menu boasting about the ‘delicious simplicity’ of dishes. This is best demonstrated by the lovely starter of Spanish Serrano ham with olive oil, or rocket, plum tomatoes with pine nuts and coriander. A good mixture of meat, fish and vegetable tapas is advised as they are equally strong in quality. The mackerel grilled with chilli, lemon and garlic and parsley is one of the standout dishes, making a fish dish – which could become overpowering – wonderfully fresh. The goat’s cheese portion size could be more generous, but the beetroot and pepper salsa it is served with makes for an interesting mix of flavours. Some dishes feel a tad overpriced, but generally the food is great value for money, including appealing offers such as the lunch and early dining menu. + Slow braised pork belly with Spanish beans - Service a tad leisurely

La Boca 189 Hope Street, City Centre (Map 6: D3, 55) 0141 237 7575, labocaglasgow.com | £12 (lunch) / £12 (dinner)

After years of living in Spain, owner and manager Steve Gilmour has returned home and opened La Boca with the aim of bringing authentic tapas to Glasgow.

Decorated simply with blue tiles and eye-catching prints of matadors, the restaurant opened in early 2014 and despite being rough around the edges still with slightly unreliable service, it definitely has great promise and potential. While the Russian potato salad is not the most successful dish, others on the menu such as the traditional pork and tomato stew and fried aubergine with sugar cane honey are well thought out and deftly prepared, and also offer great value. There is a good balance of meat, seafood and vegetable dishes as well as those from the grill including pincho moruna – pork and pepper in an Andaluz sauce – plus a hamburger for those not in the mood for tapas. The dessert menu could handle a bit of expansion, but with great tapas on offer for between £2.50 and £6, these will satisfy without breaking the bank. + Burgos black pudding - Under-cooked gambas pil-pil

4 La Bodega Tapas Bar 1120 South Street, West End (Map 9A: A3, off) 0141 581 3401, labodegaglasgow. com | £8 (lunch) / £8 (dinner)

Driving down South Street, a part of Glasgow populated with warehouses and scrap yards, you will find La Bodega, the epitome of a ‘hidden gem’. Housed in a building formerly owned by ship builders Harland and Wolff, the interior is decorated in a self-confessed shabby chic style, but oozes character and charm. Alexis, the owner, for whom the restaurant (and dance studios upstairs) has been a labour of love for over ten years, greets diners and shows them to tables facing a small stage, where dance and music nights regularly take place. The dishes are sometimes slightly on the small side, but this is a good excuse to try as many as possible. The marinated anchovies are strong and salty, and the estofado (stew with vegetables and herbs) is rich and filling. Most dishes come in tapas and larger portions as well as meal sizes. The desserts could be more varied, with only three on offer, but check the blackboard above the bar for any specials, such as the churros – wonderful Spanish donuts drenched in sugar. + Bags of charm and authentically Spanish food - Location will sadly put many off

Windows Restaurant Carlton George Hotel, 44 West George Street, City Centre (Map 6: G4, 105) 0141 354 5070, carltonhotels.co.uk | £20 (dinner)

Accessed by a lift to the seventh floor of the Carlton George Hotel, Windows is a ceiling away from being the ‘rooftop’ restaurant it’s billed as, though the views of Glasgow’s skyline are impressive. It’s a comfortable enough space, and on summer’s day when drinks can be taken on to a small terrace, it doesn’t get much better, but the full potential remains untapped. The food itself is decent, with an open preparation area adding a visibly satisfying element to the evening. A set menu provides interesting starters such as burger sliders, and from the à la carte, a sea bass fillet with chorizo and broad beans signals the chef’s capabilities. Among the mains, however, a mousseline-packed chicken breast is let down by a mushroom ragu that lacks depth. The wine list errs towards hotel prices though the house white is an excellent Chenin Blanc. For Windows to really make the most of its prime location it needs to raise itself beyond the allencompassing eatery where hotel guests take breakfast. To enjoy the view in daytime, an afternoon tea option is well worth considering. + The view - Doesn’t live up to potential

Fino (page 174): tapas food in an iconic building with great views The List Eating & Drinking Guide 173

SPANISH

list.co.uk

GLASGOW

4 HITLIST

is a minor criticism. The cheeses in the platter selection are a bit dry, but wash them down with a pitcher of deceptively potent sangria, served with chopped fresh fruit. + Prime city centre location - Always busy, so best to book

Cubatas 108 Elderslie Street, West End (Map 9B: F2, 41) 0141 243 2227, cubatas.co.uk | £5.95 (3 tapas) (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

SPANISH 4 La Bodega Tapas Bar Its shabby-chic and out-there location could be held against it, but this unique place oozes charm, character and authentic Spanish food.

4 Malaga Tapas Cosy, unpretentious Southside diner with tapas of the highest order, coupled with a welcoming vibe for all who pass through.

Café Andaluz 2 Cresswell Lane, West End (Map 9A: D1, 48) 0141 339 1111, cafeandaluz.com | £9.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

The West End branch of Café Andaluz is something of a Glasgow institution, tucked down a cobbled lane. The interior is softly lit and decorated in colourful tiles and dark wood. It is always busy, be sure to book ahead or else you might end up behind a pillar or sitting very close to other diners. The staff are well practised at dealing with a packed restaurant, however, so order three tapas per person to make sure you sample a good cross-section of the menu. The vegetarian dishes are very appealing, and include a salad of roasted beetroot, orange and green bean salad topped with crumbed goat’s cheese and croutons. The crispy fried baby squid with garlic mayonnaise and lemon is one of the stand-out dishes, along with the black pudding with apple and onion chutney. The set price two-course dinner is priced very reasonably at £13.95, but the house wine is a surprisingly steep £15.95. The atmosphere in Café Andaluz is always relaxing and enjoyable, and perfectly encapsulates the buzz of the West End so well worth a visit. + Right in the heart of the West End - Seating can be a bit cramped

Café Andaluz 12–15 St Vincent Place, City Centre (Map 6: F4, 99) 0141 222 2255, cafeandaluz.com | £10.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Describing the dining experience at Café Andaluz as ‘reliable’ doesn’t do justice to what is a fine restaurant, although it always delivers great food in a relaxed environment. Bigger and more spacious than its cramped West End branch, it has the same stylish décor of brightly coloured tiles, dark wood furniture and warm lighting, the staff helpful and attentive. Nibbling on lovely olives and fresh bread will help you pick tapas from the excellent choices available – try the cod fillets marinated with lemon juice, paprika garlic and cumin, the grilled goat’s cheese with sweet and sticky Seville orange and chilli marmalade or the Moroccan-spiced minced lamb in a pocket of mashed potato and breadcrumbs, with chilli yogurt. A few more vegetarian options would enhance the menu further, but this 174 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

The Ashoka (the non Harlequin Group one) had stood on this corner of Elderslie Street for more than two decades, dispensing its curryaoke from the basement and decent curries on ground level. A rather downhill trajectory over recent years resulted in closure with tapas bar and restaurant Cubatas opening in early 2014. The overhauled interior is almost unrecognisable, save for the same wood-sculpted drinks bar greeting diners as they enter. Décor isn’t draped in Spanish knick-knacks, possibly because the bosses are Asian rather than Iberian, but the large dining area has a pleasant mix of stone walls, deep terracotta colours and tiled floor. Claims of authenticity are credible if one takes this as a fairly standard British tapas restaurant rather than a practitioner of modern culinary techniques from Spain. Food is good, if a little erratic – meatballs (albóndigas) are enjoyable, as are crisp-edged patatas bravas – but dishes aren’t helped by Iceberg lettuce used at every opportunity and tomato sauces making dishes rather samey. Draught beer is, surprisingly, the Czech Kozel although Estrella is behind the bar. + Smart interior - Huge gap between tapas being served

Fino 28 Tunnel Street, West End (Map 9B: D3, off) 0141 375 1111, finorotunda.co.uk | £9.90 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Opened in November of last year, tapas restaurant Fino is located on the top floor of The Rotunda, once the entrance to the former Clyde tunnel, and situated in a prime spot just a stone’s throw from the new Hydro. Grab one of the window booths amid appealing surrounds and gaze out across the Clyde at what is surely one of Glasgow’s best views. Spain is to the fore on a menu that is loaded with complex and complicated meat dishes, with familiar Spanish flavours – though choices are limited for vegetarians. The filling of the croquettes, made with stew and mushroom, may not look the most appealing but creates a winning dish that is hearty and rich. Garlic prawns in filo pastry are lovely and crisp, or try the quality paella with saffron-infused chicken, pork and vegetables. Crowdpleasing mini burgers – chicken, haggis and black pudding, and squid and cuttlefish – can feel a little out of place among the authentic tapas. The lunchtime menu of three tapas for under ten pounds offers a simpler selection and great value for money. + Perfect location for a pre-concert dinner - A tad pricey for tapas

4 Malaga Tapas 213–215 St Andrew’s Road, Southside (Map 8: D1, off) 0141 429 4604, malagatapas.co.uk | £6.95 (set lunch) / £13.50 (set dinner)

Malaga Tapas is a friendly, familyrun restaurant with attentive staff. Cheerfully decorated with bright red walls and pictures of Spanish dancers, it is popular with locals and only its Southside location means it doesn’t get as much custom as it deserves, but this just makes it even more of a find. The sardines with parsley, garlic and lemon

are very strong, almost overpowering, and even the most enthusiastic fish lover will find the taste potent, but the stew of tuna and swordfish with vegetables and tomato sauce is more appealing. Try the calamari, too, which treads the delicate line between crisp and pleasantly chewy. Four types of paella are available, served with chicken and chorizo and vegetables, for between £10 and £12. The meat selection is lovely, ranging from lamb in a white wine sauce with ginger and mangoes, to homemade Spanish black pudding with quince sauce. In the vegetarian selection, opt for the goat’s cheese served with pomegranate molasses and rocket, a rich and complex combination of flavours. Cosy and unpretentious, this restaurant is a great choice for a couple’s night out or family occasion. + Set menu for two people - Music volume can be distracting

Tinto Tapas Bar • 138 Battlefield Road, Southside (Map 8: D6, 28) 0141 636 6838, tintotapasbar. co.uk | £8.50 (set lunch) / £15 (dinner)

It’s good to see a selection of sherries by the glass on offer at this popular Southside tapas restaurant, and they are the ideal aperitif to enjoy while perusing the pretty vast selection of tapas on offer. There are daily specials, too, so making your selection might take a while. It’s a small restaurant with returning regulars, but it’s not shy when it comes to some adventurous cooking, especially evident among the specials on offer. Razorclams, for example, may be a more common sight on high-end menus, but here they are, well cooked in a saffron cream and sherry sauce. The chicken and Spanish black pudding with caramellised onions is creamy and full of flavour, while calamares are deliciously tender, not chewy, fried in herb flour rather than batter. To finish, the tarta Santiago, a traditional Spanish tart, is a great choice. It’s moist and the flavour of almonds comes through loud and clear. Homemade cheesecake’s a little run of the mill but that apart, this restaurant punches well above it’s weight. With a recently opened branch north of the Clyde in Hyndland, Tinto looks set to bring some tapas treats to the West End. + Some unusual tapas well cooked and well served - It’s cosy rather than spacious

Torres 327 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: B2, 14) 0141 332 6789, kamasutrarestaurants.com | £5.95 (set lunch) / £20 (dinner)

Torres, with pictures of flamenco dancers hanging on the walls and red tiles on the floor brings a splash of Spanish colour to grey Sauchiehall Street, with an atmosphere that is warm and inviting. The selection of tapas on offer is good, such as the perfectly seasoned gambas al pil-pil and the deep-fried squid, or the wonderfully fresh asparagus drizzled with light olive oil. The slices of manchego cheese come arranged artfully in a pyramid shape, but are a little dry. Despite the great Spanish choices on the menu, diners can unusually also try dishes that are described as ‘a fusion of Mexican and Spanish old recipes’, which include chilli con carne, fajitas and green chillies deep-fried and filled with melted cheese. This is where Torres tries too hard; if it focused on just being the impressive restaurant it is and didn’t also pitch itself as a wine bar and purveyor of Mexican food it would be able to simply focus on serving well-conceived and tasty Spanish food. + Ten tapas for £34.95 - Unispiring desserts

THAI While Glasgow’s Thai scene is Thai-ny in comparison to certain other curry-dominant cuisines, it’s all about quality and not quantity. Each of these venues offers something different from its rivals, carving out its own special niche in a market that is proving increasingly hungry for the fragrant and delicately spiced dishes they have to offer. Reviewer: Colette Magee

Chaophraya The Townhouse, Nelson Mandela Place, City Centre (Map 6: F3, 68) 0141 332 0041, chaophraya.co.uk | £13.95 (set lunch) / £24 (dinner)

The Glasgow branch of this UK chain is a popular date venue in a beautiful listed building; inside it’s sumptuous, luxurious and very bling. Opportunities to eyeball the décor abound as you traverse the red carpet between floors – trendy lounge bar Palm Sugar is on the elevated ground, a gilded palace dining room upstairs, with several differently styled private dining rooms above that. The menu is westernised (only in Britain could scallops be paired with black pudding in a Thai starter) but the classic Eastern dishes are prepared with authenticity. In a more traditional starter, spicy, lightly textured satay sauce has a bit of crunch and makes a good foil for the moist chicken skewers, although its accompanying garnish of toast seems out of place. To follow, red curry balances the richness of coconut milk with delicate flavours of sweet basil, lemongrass and chilli, and there are plenty of baby aubergines and meaty three-bite king prawns. If choosing is tough, there are several set tasting menus (for two or more) that steer you through a selection of complementary dishes. + Eating here has a real sense of occasion - On busy nights there’s a two-hour table limit

4 Kitsch Inn 214 Bath Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 20) 0141 332 1341, tikibarglasgow.com | £8 (set lunch) / £16 (dinner)

Vibrant and cute in teal blue and black vinyl, this Thai restaurant exudes similar retro cool to the 1950s surf-chic Tiki Bar downstairs, but is rather more grown-up. It’s light and airy with covetable window booths and a secluded snug for groups. Staff clearly enjoy working here, which enhances the sociable atmosphere. In the kitchen, a Thai chef takes local palates into account when throwing in the chillis, creating classic dishes that are delicately spiced and not burny-hot (unless asked). The menu is concise and traditional, using core ingredients that are fresh and local where possible, but still offers plenty of choice. Garlicky green mayo accompanies a soft, spicy salt and pepper squid starter and also makes a great dipping sauce for prawn crackers, if any are left from the bowl that greets you. Desserts are the devil here – whether it’s fresh and creamy coconut and mango panacotta or a couple of pineapple fritters where the sweet sharpness of the fruit still cuts through crisp coconut flecked batter, and they’re lying when they say they’re ‘only small’. + Fresh, tasty and fun - Seats near the stairs catch a draught

4 Thai Lemongrass 24 Renfrew Street, City Centre (Map 6: E2, 33) 0141 331 1315, thailemongrass.net | £9.80 (set lunch) / £21 (dinner)

Gorgeously opulent in gold, cream and red, the interior of this City Centre restaurant is as beautifully presented as

THAI

In association with

its Thai staff and the food they deliver â&#x20AC;&#x201C; quite a surprise on this rather dingy street. Weekends demand a booking and midweek itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s popular with business travellers who have the lucky instinct to wander in from nearby hotels. Many of the starters are deep-fried but thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no thick claggy batter here â&#x20AC;&#x201C; prawn cakes wrapped in seaweed with sweet chilli sauce are crisp, crunchy but above all light. While the chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recommendations are well worth taking, the menu tempts one to defy them with interesting seafood dishes and salads as well as traditional classics. Massaman curry wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t disappoint, the tender lamb on the bone comes in a deliciously dense sauce with chunks of sweet potato. For an unusual and refreshing dessert, try chilled banana with coconut milk, palm sugar and pandanas leaves â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a big bowl of crushed ice, in a pale green soup whose sweetly nutty flavour perfectly complements the fruit that studs it. + Beautifully presented authentic cuisine - Only two wines available by the glass

Thai Siam 1191 Argyle Street, West End (Map 9B: D2, 16) 0141 229 1191, thaisiamglasgow.com | ÂŁ8.90 (set lunch) / ÂŁ18 (dinner)

Cosy and friendly in a comforting, slightly old-fashioned way, this wee restaurant is a far more dynamic and popular venue than its dĂŠcor and exterior signage suggest. New rivals open on an almost monthly basis in this area, but Siam stays busy, its friendly staff serving traditional Thai to a regular stream of neighbours in the know. The menu offers the usual curries, stirfries and noodle dishes, but their pad see ew â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a delicious mix of broad, flat noodles in soy sauce with a choice of meat or vegetables â&#x20AC;&#x201C; uses authentic river noodles, a rare occurrence in the UK that proves the integrity of its cooking. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more heat to the curries here as well, green chicken curry has fragrance and delicacy but also a real lingering chilli bite to it. Thai Siam isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t cheap, but the food is great and a decent pre-theatre deal makes it attractive for an early dinner before hitting the Finnieston bars. + Warm, welcoming and tasty - Passers by likely to pass on by

Thairiffic 303 Sauchiehall Street, City Centre (Map 6: C2, 19) 0141 332 3000,

4 HITLIST

THAI

Discover the ultimate private dining experience

4 Kitsch Inn Above the associated Tiki Bar, this City Centre diner is sociable, fun and proof that not all Thai restaurants are pricey.

4 Thai Lemongrass Beautifully presented plates of deliciously authentic food are dished up at this enduringly popular restaurant. thairifficrestaurant.com | ÂŁ9.90 (ÂŁ6.95 express) (set lunch) / ÂŁ21 (dinner)

Overlooking the drunken circus of Sauchiehall Street, this informal first floor restaurant offers a chatty, friendly welcome that puts lone diners at their ease, even amid couples and boisterous groups. The dĂŠcor is homely and modern, with rosy neutral hues on the wall that soothe the eyes in preparation of an exhausting scroll through their epic menu. As well as authentic Thai curries and stir-fry dishes, the kitchen here challenges the Scottish palate with salads, steak and a tempting list of seafood dishes featuring lots of sea bass, king prawns and squid. A simple som tum salad makes a healthy starter and the mix of papaya, carrots, green beans, tomatoes, lime, chillis and crunchy peanuts is spicy and refreshing. Milder dishes like panaeng chicken curry (also available with veg, tofu or other meats) donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t suffer from the lack of heat and the creamy coconut balances with fragrant spices and a bit of squeaky crunch from the beans and peppers. + Dessert menu reaches the same high standard as the savoury - They donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t deliver

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Chaophraya: stunning surrounds for top Thai cuisine in the city The List Eating & Drinking Guide 175

MAP 1 • NEW TOWN EDINBURGH

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EDINBU RG CASTLE H

arket Grassm

n Ca

41 44 43 42

High Street13

40 79

Cowgate

o er R ak

George IV Bridge

dl Merchant Street

l ne

Keir

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF SCOTLAND

n Pl

48 th Lo

n ia

Teviot Pl ace

FESTIVAL THEATRE

S tree

73 72

75 74

et t re Potterrow

ac e

51 53 54

South College Street

Nicolson

rre st

Pla

risto

Infirm

76 e lac oP ist Br

iot

Lau

78 77

Chambers Street

GEORGE HERIOT'S SCHOOL

Her

Stre

ST. GILE S CATH HEDRAL 14

South Bridge

est Po rt

Blair Street

Lady Wy nd

11 9

Niddry Street

High Street

Lawnmarket

31 29 21 27 24 30 22 Victoria Str 28 ee 23 26 25

Str ee

Stevenlaw 's Clos e

rrace ston Te

John

Borthwick' s Close Old Fis h market Close

Cockb urn

George IV Bridge

k Stre et

17 18

C astleh ill

Bank Str eet

Mound Place

North Bridge

The Mound

SNG

Market Street

1 Waverley B ridge

MAP 2 OLD TOWN

EDINBURGH

Meuse Lane

le Wa y

56 Simp

son L oan

1 2 2 2 2 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

The Scottish Café & Restaurant The Balmoral Bar Hadrian’s Brasserie Number One Palm Court Scotch The Fruitmarket Gallery Café Jake’s Place Ecco Vino Krua Khun Mae Viva Mexico La Locanda Laila’s Bistro City Art Centre Café North Bridge Brasserie The Inn on the Mile The Baked Potato Shop St Giles’ Cathedral Café Angels with Bagpipes

Sq u

21 22 46 98 58 39 20 34 30 103 85 82 88 18 48 34 61 21 91

178 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

16 17 18 19 20 21 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33

The Devil’s Advocate Crafters Barn Whiski Rooms Caffè Espresso Gran Caffè Bar Missoni Cucina Ondine Howies (Victoria Street) The Grain Store Mariachi The Bow Bar Oink (Victoria Street) Maison Bleue Hanam’s Thai Orchid Café Hub The Witchery by the Castle Amber Restaurant

30 28 100 61 56 23 81 71 96 94 84 24 63 73 88 105 53 100 91

34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52

Charles Street Lane

65 63 62

Crichton Street

58 We

George

Hula Juice Bar & Gallery Petit Paris Dragonfly Mary’s Milk Bar The Mussel and Steak Bar The Grassmarket Café Bar Kohl The Outsider Vittoria Divino Enoteca Under the Stairs Tang’s Tower Restaurant Museum Brasserie Boteco Do Brasil Ting Thai Caravan Hotel du Vin Mums Great Comfort Food Namaste Kathmandu

56 74 30 63 71 56 23 48 83 81 40 70 100 20 87 105 46 48 77

53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70

Hill

so n

ol Nic

Union of Genius Malone’s Irish Bar Tupiniquim Nanyang Malaysian Cuisine Peter’s Yard (Quartermile) Sylvesters Buffalo Grill (Chapel Street) Red Box Noodle Bar Field The Original Mosque Kitchen & Café 10 to 10 in Delhi The Mosque Kitchen The Potting Shed Nawroz Beirut Lian Pu Kebab Mahal Suruchi

eet

Str

Nicolson

2A WEST

t Chapel Stree

Cha alme lm mer ers rs Stre St et

tinga

Mid dle Me are ado Lan wW e alk

Nigh

65 35 90 68 58 49 85 67 94 77 80 76 37 89 87 66 76 78

MAP 2 • OLD TOWN EDINBURGH

CITY CABS APP BOOK AND TRACK YOUR TAXI THROUGH GPS Go to www.citycabs.co.uk for more info or to download

C alton Hill

Waterloo Place

gen tR oa

Calt

on H

lto

ill ent

Reg

oad

LE E EY N

Ab b

North Bridge

Calton

hi ll be y nd Horse Wy

Queen's Drive

Holy roo

d Ga it

es Ro a d

Ric hm

sR oad bie dyk e

gs ry Cra

Salisbu Brow

n Str eet

ane dL on

Nicolson

71 Th’eatery 72 Spoon 73 Black Medicine Coffee Company (Nicolson Street) 74 Brew Lab 75 New Saffrani 76 Rascals 77 Mother India’s Café 78 Jacob Artisan Bakery (South Bridge) 79 BrewDog Edinburgh 80 Café Voltaire 81 The City Café 82 Michael Neave Kitchen & Whisky Bar 83 Daft Jamie’s

Dum

Vie w

nce

ond Street

Pleasa

ond Place Richm

edyk

Ric st We

S tre

lac

ce Hill Pla

eet

Str

craig

rgh P

S tree

so n

rive n's D

Quee

View

Nicolson

L E

Roxbu

eet

tr ond S Drumm

b ik

ce san

oad ood R Viewcraig St re

Holyr

a Ple

t y Stre e

17 16

lose

19 18

's C

IS TISH CO TIS SCOT SC T THE NT NT AMEN AM IAME IA LIAM PARL PA

Re id

y lose Entr on's C tle's Gen

25 26

Infirmar

t Crich

Stre

22 21

hn St Jo

Saint Ma ry's Street

Sout S o h Bridge

South Gray's Close

Bl i

Niddry Street

30 Canongate

treet

High Street

Road Lochend Clo se

on Street nst

3 5

Old T olbooth Wynd

tre e

Je f

New Street

et S

fre

Mark

Cra

Chalm ers Clo se

No rt h Gr ay 's Close Carrubber's Clo se

East

lC eyhil rescent

2 3

race

Ter

22 49 52 53 77 38 77 56 24 26 28 97 92

2B EAST

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Rabbies Café La Garrigue The Mussel & Steak Bar (Jeffrey Street) The Storytelling Café Monteiths Whiski Itchycoo Bar & Kitchen Edinburgh Larder Blackfriars Bar 50 Pilgrim Dovecot Café by Stag Espresso The Brass Monkey The Southsider Bonsai Bar Bistro (Pleasance)

59 73 71 21 47 41 47 54 43 23 37 20 24 39 67

16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

The Holyrood 9A David Bann Stac Polly Bistro Vinyasa Empires Circus The White Horse Mimi’s Picnic Parlour Wedgwood the Restaurant Pancho Villa’s The Canon’s Gait Foodies at Holyrood Hemma Rocca@Holyrood Oink (Canongate) The Kilderkin

33 44 99 80 87 87 41 57 100 85 28 55 33 83 63 35

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 179

MAP 3 • SOUTH EDINBURGH

CITY CABS LTD EDINBURGH’S PREMIER TAXI FLEET

lc ro

e Plac

ert

Alb

Pla c

fi eld

Bru

all ingv in Spr

fie

ad Falcon Ro

lie

Bruntsfield Links

27 Br

erra

lie

e tp on M

ey T

Falcon Avenue

Stre

ont

P ar Warrender

Place

chm

ION DOMINIO EMA NEM CIN

War Mar

Newbattle Terrace

e rend

race

Ter

Loa

d ar

3 4

Lea

use ho

nts

ite

e Cr

Bruntsfield Links

CHURCH C HILL THEATRE

h rt fo ew Vi

on gt in rt Ha

t en sc

24 25

2 Greenhill Park

race Glengyle Ter

W rig ht

ll Gi

e ac Pl

Leven Stre et

e pi es

19 21

Valleyfield Street

H ouses

14 15

Lonsd

k Par ford ots Abb

Street

Chamber

Morningside Road

eet s S tr Haile

lace ore P Gilm

arf

r pe

h nW

ing

Tarvit KI G’S KIN AT E THEATR T

Pla

Le ven Terrace

ce Pla

Lo th pa ow lT a n Ca ion e Un lac eP or lm i rG we Lo

Panmure Place

9 11

i ch

am gh ou

CAMEO CINEMA

4 St

Plac chrin

m ea

t r y an Stree

ug h

reet Home St

Fou

dge

bri

in nta

t es W

Br o

t trree

ss c ro

ll To

ark ton P

en S

et re St

et tre nS to

n Po

1 or e

nt sce Cre

tre e eS rov

MAP 3 SOUTH

EDINBURGH

i ta

n ou

Bruntsfield Ga

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Springvalley Gardens

rra

illar Crescent Milla M

rrac hill Te

Green

3A TOLLCROSS & BRUNTSFIELD 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

The Forest Café The Ventoux My Big Fat Greek Kitchen Mezbaan South Indian Restaurant El Quijote The Cloisters No 1 Sushi Bar Indaba Passorn Machina Espresso Ong Gie Iman’s Tuk Tuk The Purple Pig Café Absolute Thai Pekoe Tea Leven’s The Blackbird

180 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

55 40 89 76 101 28 68 88 103 62 69 75 80 59 102 64 103 23

19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35

The Treehouse Harajuku Kitchen Henricks Bar & Bistro The Apartment Bistro Black Medicine Coffee Company (Bruntsfield) Katie’s Diner Thai Lemongrass Bisque Bar & Brasserie Bollywood: The Coffee Box Meadowberry The Chocolate Tree Three Birds Restaurant Artisan Roast Montpeliers Bar & Brasserie La Barantine Nardini’s Falko (Konditormeister)

treet

60 68 33 42 52 86 104 42 75 63 62 50 61 47 52 57 55

Ba lc

Canaa

Jordan Lane

Hermitage Ter race

Pla

n Lane

Forbes Ro ad

s Bruntsfield Ga rd en

Bru ntsfield Crescent

d Morningside Roa

en Greenhill G ard

c er

sS t re

3B MORNINGSIDE 1 2 3 4 5 6

Bia Bistrot S Luca of Musselburgh Rocket Café Nonna’s Kitchen The Zulu Lounge Henri of Edinburgh (Morningside)

42 59 59 82 64 56

MAP 3 • SOUTH EDINBURGH

CITY CABS APP BOOK AND TRACK YOUR TAXI THROUGH GPS Go to www.citycabs.co.uk for more info or to download

Me le

al k W

ea do w

Ga te

or th

dd Mi

Bra idw oo

lk Wa ow ad

ac e Pl ad ow

ce nt

e ns

Presto

n S tree

24 25

Place

Salisbury Road

Dryden Place

side

Blacket Avenue

Minto Street

r escent

Middleby Street

G rantull y Place

Mayfield Terrace

Alfred Place

South G ray Street

Ratcliffe Terrace

Blacket Place

Duncan Street

Grange Loan

Upper Gray Street

Causeway

e Findhorn Plac

ple C

Eas t

oad eith R

Dalk

Stre

Newington Ro ad

Seton Pl ace

ern Park

lr ym

to n

d Cres c ent

e's P lace

Cumin Place

bury

eL oa

Mayfie

ld Terr ace

West Ma y field B

res

kw oo

eri n

Pla

ath

Caus ewayside

Sa int C

Lauder Road

Mansionhouse Road

Lover's Loan

Wyv

Dick Pl ace

Ro ad

Blac

T ant all

a rd

Salis

Loa

S tre

st P

e Roa d

der

rd's

nne

Oxford Street

Scie

Grang

Lau

Lutton Place

ent

nes G

sid

ona

e rh all

rra ce

St Le

Scien

Bernard Terrace

South Clerk Street

ff Te

Cre sc

ston R oad

Palmer rt Road

4 ng

crie

erra ce

ers

He r

Mon

ne T

Beaufo

Hope Par k T errace

Gla dsto

lace

Rankeillor Street

Montague Street

er ra

ings tone P

Cha lm

ien

QU EN’S QUE HALL

Melvi lle T

Liv

e Cr

tto

t P lace

Bowmon

Melville Drive

way

its

alk

Pla

m rch

11 12

Gifford Park

use

ch hlo ug ro Bo

sce

sca

St Leonard's Hill

kC re

r os

Street Street ds ds narnar St Leo St Leo

Cowan's Clo se

llb

Sy lva n

Str

e Ri

Pla ce

Roa d

Eas

en Street

rra

Howd

Lan

k al W

Arg yle

ild W alk

se n

tree

mon t

en S

Ro s

Clerk Street

Mead

w do ea M

Mar ch

Ard

Tow

e Walk

nsw o men 's Gu

ce Pla h at chmont Cresce nt ne ar se M

Pa rk

uch P lace

h rt No

Wa rr

oad

Buccle

ee t

end er

C igad Boys Br

n Str

Buccle uch St reet

walk

k alk eW bon

Jaw

Gran

ad tainhall Ro

3C MARCHMONT & SOUTHSIDE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

56 North Kim’s Korean Meals Bindi Greenmantle La Sal Kalpna Tanjore The Auld Hoose Kampong Ah Lee Malaysian Delight 10 Anteaques 11 Café Andamiro 12 Brazilian Sensation

30 68 75 32 102 75 78 22 68 61 67 87

13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

Natural Foods Etc Blonde The Engine Shed Aizle The Southern The Royal Dick Bar & Bistro Clerk’s Bar Los Argentinos Hanedan Hewat’s Restaurant Celadon The Wild Restaurant Apiary

63 44 54 42 39 48 28 88 88 96 102 51 42

26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36

Voujon Café Cassis The Salisbury Arms Hellers Kitchen Pataka Earthy Market Café Kwok Brasserie Toast Freemans The Pastures Sweet Melindas

80 44 39 46 77 54 66 50 55 58 71

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 181

MAP 4 • WEST END EDINBURGH

CITY CABS LTD EDINBURGH’S PREMIER TAXI FLEET

Gr as sm a

sto n

Pl ac e

High Riggs

ur is to n

Stre et

br idg e

ou We st To llc r ro s s ol lc

We st T

et tre S n eve

es us Wright's H o

t en

es c

ore

Pla ce tsfield

spie Gil le

Brun s

den Gar all sth We

ens ard gto nG

r tpe lie

an Wa y ean ea Ocean

Street Constitution

Bus h Timber

e Str eet Maritim

r Street

Street

Mitchell Street

Cadiz

Mitchell Str eet

et tte Stre

arlo Queen Ch ynd

28 29

Gile

s St

ree t St reet

John's Pla ce

Joh

an 's L

Tolb oot hW

d Lane

Hend

Wynd

i lm rG pe rtin Ha

24 25

W 32

eet

Str

21 20

Broad Wyn d

erson

rry Fe

an ill L

tre

ark

ff P

eri

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Stree

hi al Co

et i th Path re of Le St rg ater u b W Co

le a

nt St re et

Te rr a

Re ge

in ce

tio

Cou

nc Ju

182 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

rS t

ltic

Burgess

d Bernar Stre et

ate

Stre et

Wate

North Leith Mill

Tower Str eet

Shore

Ho pe f

Up e lac nP gto rtin Ha

Towe

15 16

c Sh ore Pla

nt ain

dge bri tai n ce Pla re mo Gil e

e Dock Plac

Drive

ion Plac e

field T

Constitut

l Street mmercia

t un Br L Brunts

r of L e it h

ri D n ce a O

sle

l Quay

Isle ie's nn Re

l Quay Commercia 6 7

Commercia l Quay

Commercia

Vie wfo rth

9 8

Quay Victoria

gyle

arf Wh

sI ie'

Oce a Oce n Driv e an Dri ve

la ce

lT ow

ld Place

ge rid nb ai

na e

ace

ra er

ion th

Dri

Un rr

err

ho us e

lac

n en

N EA OC INAL RM TE

MAP 5 LEITH

EDINBURGH

ppr We

et Str e Duff

cean

Downfie

Pete

rs P

Place

Lea

gto

Gi gwell

min

st A

Ocean

Fo u

Vie wfo rth

Cathca rt Plac e

Sprin

e ac Pl

oac

ton

ing

e or lm Gi

t Str

eld ndfi Br a

lac

os s

r wa De

nt ce Cr

ll P

S pittal

t mbridge S Ca tree

West A pproach Road

ce Pla

Dalry Ro ad Or

y Ro ad

oad

er st Ea

l ry

ar k m ay

e Park

Ea st F

Sh an dw ic

scen t

ry le til

yn d

Gilmor Caledo nian Place

a lk

in W

ne La

Road

tre

iel

e all

Caledonian

Melv

ace Richmond Terr

C re sc en

t ee

Pla

’S NG RE KI AT E TH

e ac

lac

vo De

Circus

ris

O ME A CA NEM CI

ugh

Dalry Place

51 50

We st A ppro ach Roa d Upp er G rov eP lac e

rra

65 66

r Mo

rk ma

rrison

T KE AR N M TIO AY TA S

en sc

s te

Lin

C re

a Co

be r

Lo Un we ion rG Ca ilm na or lT eP ow lac pa th e

eet

Str

aitla

do ns

st M

Grosven

or C res ce n

e Cre s cent

Cre scen t

irn ca

r's

Bro

Mo rrison

rd ne

treet

Brougham S

Gl en

Str

Dr um

rris

tre

ur is

Street

s on

n Str eet

Ear lG rey Str ee

Morriso

risto

Lau

d r ya

Pla

53 55Gr 54

e Str on rris Mo

hen

60 63 61 et 62 on Stre

Str

e n Stre

phic

lac

a ew

eet

rris

e Str

Lad

31 30 d rea

39 40 42 43

Street

28 29

re St

tre

e ich

34Grindlay Street 32 36 35 33

wson

Palm ers ton Pla ce

Lady La

on st

EUM LYC TRE A THE

ER USH L HAL

t es

Pla

Corrn nwall Str eet

lac e

Rutland Street

t Lane e

S tree

Alva Stree t

u La

nor

Tor

Eglinto nC res cen t

P la

rt Po

Palm

ton

sC re sc en t

liam

Pla

SE VER TRA TRE A THE

nor

e Terr ac

Coa te

Wil

Str eet

tr e et Pla

Cas tl

Ch est er S

nor

King's Sta bles Roa d

K ing

At h Can o ll Cr esce nin nt L ane gS Can tre nin et L gS an e tr e et

Rot

tre

les R oad tab 's S

ee t

4 3

lke rS

Str

ll C

hes

eet

Qu een sfe rry

Me lvil le S

r Str

ers

tr e et

ard ens

tr e et L ane

heu gh G

Me lvil le S

Dru ms

lac e

ay P

EDI NBU CAS RGH TLE

n ia th Lo

Ro Rothes th e ay say Te Pla rra ce ce

ffo

lke

16 t

a Ro

Sta

La ne fe errrry e y Sttr ee

an hi

heu

Dru

Queens

t Lo

en ard

e re

Lan

lace

doc

e Lyn

Queensferry Street

9 10 11

Lynedoch Place

Brra e B

Bells

R iller

Randolph C

sce re

MAP 4 WEST END

EDINBURGH

Br id

A fast, efﬁcient, reliable and safe taxi service - Book online or call 0131 228 1211

MAP 5 • LEITH EDINBURGH

CITY CABS APP BOOK AND TRACK YOUR TAXI THROUGH GPS Go to www.citycabs.co.uk for more info or to download

Str

ad's

ir St Cla

ad r Ro

et y Stre

Dalmen

St Cla ir S tre et

Al bi

ert

eet

Str

Alb

ce R on

i Alb

well

nf ie

a nf ield

Al la

Both

c erra Edina

d e nT nto Bru

Wellin nt

esce

e Cr lsid

Hil

don

lt Car

Blenheim Place

Roa

Lon

23 24 Elm Row

Gayfield Place G

ce rra

reet gton St

t e tre

n Pla ce

ingto

Hadd

eS lsid Hil

tre

are

Maryfield

Roa ter Eas

un sw

reet Elgin St

et L a

a Pla

Edin

Ross

eet ery S tr Montgom

Stre

Stree

ide

T Elgin

nfie

Dic k

Sunnys

oad

Alla

eld sonfi

Allanfiel d

Lane

All

Croall Place

erra

Middlefie

Shru r b Place P

Dru

tre

13 14

Leith W alk

et Dick

Stre

tS Ellio

Iona

t Spey S tree

n ter Eas etery m Ce

son

Sloan

6 7

and ale Stre

Poplar Lane

Street

r St

Poplar Lane

ide

Jameson Place

k ic

th Lei s k Lin

Place

Easte

Links

20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34

Stre

Road

Halmyr

Str

reet Sloan St South et oan Stre South Sl

Lorne Street

Pattison Street

S treet

er ra

88 36 59 34 35 75 35 57 102 28 44 98 41 39 39 61

Elbe Street

e Street

ar dfi e

Ann

Street

rig

l ta

Thorntre

fie ld

e Street

lfo

70 75 87 72 24 96 65 76 91 40 81 86 82 47 70 49 71 76

Gordon

Pla

Wagamama (Ocean Terminal) Britannia Spice Fatma Bistro Provence Bond No. 9 The Kitchin Chop Chop Mithas A Room in Leith Teuchters Landing Café Domenico Diner 7 Giuliano’s on the Shore Malmaison Brasserie Fishers Bistro The Shore Bar & Restaurant The Ship on the Shore Mintleaf Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant Nobles Bar Printworks Coffee Isobar The King’s Wark Restaurant Martin Wishart Leith Beer Co. Mimi’s Bakehouse Tapa The Compass Bar Credo Plumed Horse The Vintage Sofi’s The Roseleaf The Water of Leith Café Bistro

C et re St

se ro

Ste

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

5A THE SHORE

n ur

Manderston Stre

Buchanan Str eet

68 70 71 72 73

st Ea

Pla

94 75 38 63 77 36 80

36 68 69 56 54 82 45 32 67

r He

34 60 34

tre

ield anf

65 66 67

25 26 27 28 29 30

60 70 38 22 92 100 57

Jan

74 76

Ne w

22 23

Kirk Street

23 Joseph Pearce’s 24 Valvona & Crolla Caffè Bar 25 Jeremiah’s Taproom 26 The Gardener’s Cottage 27 21212 28 The Regent Bar 29 The Manna House 30 Rivage 31 The Mash Tun 32 Al Dente

All

96 32

56 62 97 69 91 38 57 64 63 35 65 75 73

40 24 62 90 61 83 84 62 90 41 53 48

Leith Walk

20 21

56 34

52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64

68 57 85

Duke St1 reet

lace Murano P

49 50 51

44 90 35 81 33 64 60

Windsor Street

45 87 83

42 43 44 45 46 47 48

35 77 23 41 40 82 84 67 20 81

15 16 17

53 36 86 41 74 40 34 51 62 72

65 104 48 20 75 84

11 The Tourmalet 12 The Brass Monkey Leith 13 Gaia Delicatessen 14 Yellow Bench 15 Word of Mouth 16 Vittoria (Leith) 17 Bodega 18 Embo 19 Zupa 20 Windsor Buffet 21 Café Renroc 22 No11 Brunswick Street

5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

36 37 38 39 40 41

The Lioness of Leith Punjabi Junction Boda Bar Woodland Creatures Victoria Origano Los Cardos Stack Dim Sum Bar Drill Hall Arts Café La Favorita

Arthur St re

64 40

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

3 3

5B LEITH WALK

23 68 62 84

Pir rie

Restaurant at the Bonham Urban West Coffee House Teuchters A Room in the West End Brass & Copper Coffee The Melville 52 Canoes The WestRoom La P’tite Folie Sygn Indigo Yard Affogato Hernandez & Co. L’escargot Blanc Edinburgh Larder Bistro Wannaburger QuattroZero Whighams Wine Cellars Henderson’s @ St John’s The Huxley Kyloe Restaurant & Grill Ghillie Dhu Galvin Brasserie de Luxe The Pompadour by Galvins Kasturi Social Bite (Shandwick Place) Wagamama (Lothian Road) Red Squirrel Traverse Bar Café Castle Terrace Timberyard Lovecrumbs Pulp Fiction Café Bookstore

The Blue Blazer Kanpai Kiki’s Zucca Jasmine Chinese Restaurant Spirit of Thai One Square Filmhouse Café Bar Kama Sutra Illegal Jack’s Bread Street Brasserie Shebeen Lebowskis Croma The Hanging Bat Thyme Two Thin Laddies Kampung Ali Malaysian Delight Mint Café Burger Loudon’s Café & Bakery Copper Bird Café McKirdy’s Steakhouse Pho Vietnam House The Atelier Priory Bar & Kitchen Milk China Town Maialino The Mad Hatter Chop Chop Ignite Le Marché Français The Mercat Bar & Restaurant Hay Sushi Sushiya Jacob Artisan Bakery (West End) Cucina LC Mia First Coast The Fountain Wing Sing Inn

31 32 33 34 35

mb rid ge Pil Av rig en Co ue tta ge s

4 WEST END

eB rae

ace

err

al T

Roy

arlton T err ac

Terrace

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 183

MAP 6 • CITY CENTRE GLASGOW PROVIDING LOCAL BUS SERVICES IN SOUTH WEST SCOTLAND | BUY YOUR BUS TICKETS ON A SMARTCARD - WWW.STAGECOACHSMART.COM

Garne

t Stre e

es R oad oa

S t. G e org

Hill S tree

Sauc

4 5

hieha

ll Str ee

11 12

d Stre et Hollan

St Vin ce

nt Str ee

t Terrac e

m Street

William

S tree

112 162 148 163 168 122

Wate

rloo S tr

Argyle

Stre

McAlpine Street

Balaclava Street Washington Street

Stre

124 125 126 127 128

150 128 146 124 142

ton

119 120 121 122 123

130 151 150 140 161 156 166 117 152 154 167 142 168 115 135 165 165 136 164 128 128 129 168 160 165 147 165 159 126 136 174 164 165 168 173 162 112 147 161 170 153 120 140 141 145 166 173 115 113 115 150 167 150 149

Elmbank Crescent

New

171 155 124 152 166 173 151 126 166 156 147 140 167 148 162 168 151 146

174 159

Piccadilly Street

144 114 135 154 145 156 155

71 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 110 110 110 110 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118

Chaophraya Amarone Vroni’s Wine & Champagne Bar Wagamama Nippon Kitchen Café Wander Fratelli Sarti Charcoals Bread Meats Bread Blue Dog Mussel Inn Le Bistro Beaumartin Anatolia Chargrill Martha’s Viva Brazil The Admiral The Grill on the Corner Ad Lib Pinto Mexican Kitchen Tempus Bar and Restaurant Via Italia Stereo Steampunk Café Vespbar Las Iguanas Carluccio’s Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen Riverhill Coffee Bar Pinto Mexican Kitchen Barolo Grill Republic Bier Halle Urban Bar & Brasserie Café Andaluz La Vita Pinto Mexican Kitchen Elià Windows Restaurant Jamie’s Italian Café at GOMA Tempo Tea Bar Di Maggio’s The Grill Room at the Square Rogano Darcy’s Cranachan Fifi and Ally Tinderbox Buzzy’s Restaurant and Bar Barça Tapas and Cava Bar The Willow Tea Rooms The Doocot Café and Bar Bar Ten Bar Soba The Calabash Restaurant Bull Leader Lychee Oriental Ichiban Japanese Noodle Café Sloans Nic’s NYC Deli MacSorley’s Lola and Livvy’s The Arches Café Bar & Restaurant La Lanterna Ho Wong Piccolo Mondo Tropeiro The Hope

India Street

158 124 123 161 117 164 124 135 118

68 69 70

Cheapside Street

51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67

163 116 150 118 126 149 129 163 130 159 164 166 167 174 120 159 114 175 129 174 116 128 125 162 159 149 149 114 139 148 161 154 174 125

44 45 46 47 48 49 50

Singl-end Beresford Lounge Nanakusa Broadcast Nice’n’Sleazy Loon Fung Variety Bar Ristorante Teatro Baby Grand Punjabi Charing Cross Juan Chihuahua NY Slice Cook and Indi’s World Buffet Torres Cocktail & Burger Rawalpindi Tandoori Saramago Café Bar Thairiffic The Tiki Bar Kitsch Inn The Bath Street Palomino Slouch Moskito Mia Roma The Wee Curry Shop Master Sun’s Hot Pot Banana Leaf The Pipers’ Tryst Café Hula Dragon-i Di Maggio’s Theatreland La Bonne Auberge Thai Lemongrass Molly Malones Masala Twist Tikka and Tapas Bar Malone’s Irish Bar The Howlin’ Wolf Fratelli Sarti Bloc+ Fratelli Sarti Meat Bar Red Onion The Butterfly and the Pig The Tearooms @The butterfly and the pig The Willow Tea Rooms Lucky 7 Canteen Two Fat Ladies in the City Where the Monkey Sleeps Babu Bombay Street Kitchen Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or Restaurant at Blythswood Square Malmaison King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut Gamba Jacker de Viande La Boca Opium The Pot Still Burger Meats Bun Assam’s Amber Regent Cup Tea Lounge Cook & Indi’s World Buffet China Blue O Sole Mio Yiamas Greek Taverna Rumours Kopitiam Laboratorio Espresso

Stree

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 19 20 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35

Lane

Elmbank Street

KING’S THEATRE

Bath

North

MAP 6 CITY CENTRE

GLASGOW

36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 43

184 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

MAP 6 â&#x20AC;˘ CITY CENTRE GLASGOW

Street

92 94

Gordon St re et

Gordon Stre et

CENTRAL C S STATION

115

124

126

100

105 108 106

111 110

118 119

122 Street

Argyle

rt Lan

Argyle

Stree

ms Co u

121

104

GOMA

109

107

Street

Jama

York Street

117

101

114 112

Ada

James Watt Street

125

Oswald Street

120

Osbo

rne

Broom

How

ard

Str

eet

tre

Stoc

kwe

Str

t Ho

ane

eet

pS tr

River Clyde

ow B ridge

Dix

Str eet

ielaw

eorge V Bridge

Carrick Street

123 Robertson Street

law Broomie

Brown Street

Argyle

Crimea Street

West Nile S treet

113

Street

Argyle

127

ica Str ee

Street

GEORGE SQUARE

102

St Vin cent P lace

97 96

Mitchell S treet

s Stree Dougla

Argyle

Union Street

eet

116

Holm S treet

103

e Stre et

Citize n Lan e

Street

Georg

ton Lan e

Drury

128

Welling

ane

93 84

r y's L

eld L ane

QUEEN EN STREET STATIO STATION TI

West

Virginia

Waterl oo Str eet

Renfi

Hanov er Stre e

Miller Stree t

ell La ne

St Ma

gton

Wellin

Stree

Blyth s

wood

Bothw

Cadogan

Stree

Doug

67 72

nt Str eet

ell Str eet

80 79

St Vin ce

Bothw

r's Lan

e Stre e

or La

Georg

77 78

Wate rloo L ane

las S tr

nt Lan e

nt La ne

Anch

West

Camp

Rege

Stree

St ree

t bell S tree

ge La

St Vin ce

St Pete reet

Geor

56 55

L ane

Quee n

r eet

Bath

58 60

nt St

nan S treet

Rege

65 Bath

Nile S tree

West

ont Str ee

GLASGOW ROYAL CONCERT HALL

Lane

West

eet

Pitt S treet

iehall

West

Sauch

Blythswood Square

Killerm

Lane

treet

49 48

hihall

36 40 39

orge S

Sauc

w Lan e

i le Stre

nt Str eet

Lane

ll Str ee

West N

Rege

hieha

Renfr e

Bath

Stree

35 Sauc

w Stre

eld S tree

Bath

BUS S ST IIO STATIO STATION S STATI

33 32

Renfre

Renfi

21 22

ew Str eet

Union Place

Pitt S treet

Holla nd Str eet

47 West G e

Renfr

44 Blyth swoo d Str eet

Lane

West

Bucha

19 Doug las Str eet

iehall

GLASGOW GOW CALEDONIA ON AN UNVERSIT RS TY

THEATRE E ROYAL

Rose

24 Sauch

s R oad

ridge

Stree

17 18 16

28 adden

Camb

14 15

Aitke

Rose Stree t

Rose

Stree

ew Str ee

Cowc

Hope

Renfr

Stre e t

Scott

Stree

Hill S tree

Roa d

Du ndasvale

n Roa d

D t

Lane

Stree

ousi e

Dalho usie S treet

Dalh

eet ne Str

Garn ethill

Milton

oad da s R

uch S tree

Dunbla

Buccle

ee rt Str

leuch Lan

Larbe

Bucc

reet

Stre

COACHES FROM GLASGOW TO AYRSHIRE UP TO 4AM ON FRIDAY & SATURDAY NIGHTS | THE BIOBUS IN KILMARNOCK RUNS ON 100% BIO FUEL

ll Pl a

rd S tr ee

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 185

MAP 7 • MERCHANT CITY & EAST END GLASGOW

St re et

Str ee

tle ut

ow na ge R

Str eet

rso

are

nS so at

et tre

ir S

Charl

tre et ee

end

yke

Str

eet

Lanark

Stree

Str

ll S

Tur nb u

t rke tma

Ste

otte S treet

Kin

e an

Pa rs onage S qu

tre

Ton

tine

Lan

Str eet ion

tr ee

Spo

King

New

t Stree

Wynd

Old W ynd

Stock well S tr eet Br idg e

ate

Gre

Glasgow Green

rt B

rid

Str ee

Vic tor ia

ane

Rop

ork L

eet

pS tr

nlo

43 treet Mart S

Lane

186 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

132 152 133 145 163 135 162 171 133 118 145 162 151 110 165 162 152 110 115 132 133 118 135 169

t treeth

ar S

ndin

ate

Riv Cly er de

Brutti Compadres Rock Lobster Bar & Grill The Corinthian Club The Wee Guy’s Tony Macaroni Hutchesons Mediterraneo Rab Ha’s Citation Brutti Ma Buoni Tinderbox The Italian Kitchen Sapporo Teppanyaki Merchant Chippie Ad Lib The Italian Caffè Gandolfi Fish Gandolfi Fish to Go Bar Gandolfi Café Gandolfi Central Market Boudoir Wine Bar Metropolitan Arisaig

rs Ro a

Bridge g

hant

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 17 18 18 19 20 20 20

ckfria

Mole

bbs

Merc

Bla

llo

re et

sedu

ie St

Ga rde ns

S treet

Howa

Goo

rd S tr ee

ree

Str ee t

orne

38 39

ipb

Str

Osb

ll Pl a

Parn

Sal

kwe

Stoc

33 32

36 Stock well S tree

wa rd

gate

Alb

Tron

16 17

MERCHANT M AN SQUARE RE

rne

lerig g

Osbo

lle

CITY HALLS

Bel l St ree 27 t

Cand

Stree t eson

21 22 23 24 25

Hutch

Stree

s St re

Hi gh

n Str eet

hola

lls

Wilso

Ni c

Street

k Str ee swic

utm

t on Str ee Hutch es

t ford S tree Glass

Street Virginia

11 Ingram

reet

ond S tree

Rotte

ge St

Albion Stre et

treet

Richm

Geor

Miller Stree t Argyle

eet

Montr ose S treet

rane S

Brun

n St r ee t

Montr o

t Stree John t

Stree

Coch

Quee

e et

er Stre

Richm ond S tr

Geor ge Str ee

Hanov

GOMA

Squa r

Vin ncent Place

GEORGE SQUARE

Geor ge

Anch or L a

itizen Lane

John

e Stre e

Georg

and S treet orth Portl

MAP 7 MERCHANT CITY & EAST END

GLASGOW

West

North

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21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43

KoolBa City Merchant Bar 91 Dakhin The Plum Tree The Dhabba Pancho Villa’s Wild Cabaret & Wicked Lounge Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant Indian Cottage Café India Maggie May’s Boteco do Brasil Guy’s Restaurant & Bar Charcoals Café Café Cossachok Tron Theatre All That is Coffee The 13th Note Café/Bar Once Upon a Tart Trans-Europe Café Mono Café Source

158 170 115 157 143 157 164 130 168 157 156 171 167 135 156 167 114 112 129 143 145 125 170

MAP 8 • SOUTHSIDE GLASGOW COACHES FROM GLASGOW TO AYRSHIRE UP TO 4AM ON FRIDAY & SATURDAY NIGHTS | THE BIOBUS IN KILMARNOCK RUNS ON 100% BIO FUEL

Leslie

St re et

Ba rr la nd

app S tr

eet

ure S tree

Fo F orth

Keir

Str t e eet

Stre et

Her

Kenm

Glen

Alb

ert

Stre

Driv

TRAMWAY

Melvi

lle Str

eet

Driv

Coplaw

tre

Leve

Cuthbe

rtson

Kinga

rth St ree

5 ve e Dri

dale

d Ro a

t nd Stre e orela Westm

ad d oa rris

d ale

Street

e ar

rri

sda

le S

tree

Sq rie

ve ri D

Avenue

Mayban

ar ic lv Ba

nk St

Mayba

Albert

reet

dd Ni

Titwood Road

k Lan e Lan

en's

Que

Driv

rley Ga rd en

Qu e

's D

lyf d

Qu ee

gsid e La ne Bu rto nL an e

Wave

R ie id

riv

d Ni

rie

et re

H al

16 t

re et

Queens Park

ke r

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Tramway Café Bar iKafe La Tea Doh Rhubarb Moyra Jane’s Cookie The Bungo Bar & Kitchen No Way Back Buddy’s Bar Diner Grill Kebabish Grill

La ser

erd

114 141 146 135 143 133 132 143 166 158

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Tapa Coffeehouse Gusto & Relish Mulberry Street Bar Bistro Café Lovestruck The Glad Café Brooklyn Café Di Maggio’s The Waverley Tea Room Pudding Lane Café Deli 1901

ad e

ge an

ld R

oad

l Mi

ale

Str

eet

Pla

144 141 126 139 141 139 161 130 143 146

d oo llw Be

et re St

ael

Batt lefie

ra e

e ve nu lA

VICTORIA CT INFIRMARY

llw

oo d

Gr an g

Ed Ed gem ge o m nt on S t S tre tre et et

St re et

n La

Pl ac e

e Dr iv

Queen

rle

25 St ua rt

st o an De al

M ou nt

St ua rt St re et

Le th in gt on

M ou nt

20 21 22 S

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

ttl efield Gard ens

La ngside Road

r St

et re St

arth

reet

lif

an St

aw llo ks h

Po re

ley

ad Ro

ley

P ay

Street

lac

a Ro

nt ge Re

t ca ris

Bowm

rie

ths

King

e al sd

Beaton Road

Fotheringay Road

March Street

hsdal

Nit

rive

ale D

Nithsd

Te Terre T er gles Avenue

y nle

Victo ria Roa d

y Lan

er Nurs

Glencairn Lane

Street

Asco

n Gardens

air nc

eet

rnle

Shield s Road

Leslie Road

n Str

Glencairn Drive

Street

g Stre et

ark

th Lane

New

Kingar

oa d

oad

et Craigie Stre

MAP 8 SOUTHSIDE

GLASGOW

un R

Biscuit Nachos Ketchup Eat Café Buddy’s BBQ & Burgers Brown Sugar Battlefield Rest Tinto Tapas Bar Frosoulla’s

ew vi le Va

e ac rr Te

138 164 166 141 110 139 160 174 168

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 187

MAP 9 • WEST END GLASGOW

et re St un lto

oa d

t tree don S Cale

ll L an

35 31

Suth er

Elie S

University Place

Stree

t GLASGOW OW UNIVERSITY VERS VER

Scienc

ell

Torness

22 21

art

16 17

Street

Moy Street

t Dum b ree rid ge Street

Co oBpena er' lder Str s

Church Street

l Stre anhil Dow

tre

eet

Mansf

18 ad

Dun aski

Cail Bruich Naked Soup Café Pop Papercup Coffee Company The Belle Wudon Black Rabbit The Flavour Co

170 143 140

63 Little Urban Achievers Club 64 Cottonrake 65 Il Cappuccino 66 Alba 67 Roots and Fruits (shop) 68 Roots and Fruits (café) 69 La Parmigiana

143 116 151 116 146

St r

1 re et

ton

lvi nW Ke

Roa

10 11 12

Blackie S treet

S treet Lumsden

b ar

Overnewton Stree t

urn

Street

d Stre et

Cooper ad

age Pl

ace

Sandyf or

ugh

inha

Kelv

Stre

Street

Teviot St reet

Gilbert

u Ha

Stre

Carfrae

Ro oss

Place ewton Overn

b Lym

ll Pa rad

C ay

or ay nt M ge Re Yorkhill Street

Nairn Street

Esmond Street

Yorkhi

Dum

110 147 163

4 5 6

7 Old

124 146 145 137

n Roa d

KELVINGROVE E ART GALLERY RY & MUSEUM M

e ou s nh Bu Old Dum barto

e Way

White

treet

Cre ss

34 33 32

Lily ba n

te Beau mont Ga

t Elie S tree treet

26 25

nce S

Elie S tree reet

44 43

reet

Lawre

Elie St

t ield S tree

anhil Dow l Stre et anhil

d Stre et

Hynd lan

t Stree land

28 27

Hynd

St re

Queen

Cr o wn C irc us

Dow

Avenue Hyndland

Sa lt o un

e 's Plac

Prince's Place e

Sydenham Lan

l Stre et

King K in sb

kland Lane

North Gardne r Street

ansid41 e La ne

lock S tree

tre

Dalnair Street

Do wa Do 39 nsi wa nsdi e R de o 38 Road ad

Have

Dow

188 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

143 155 138 137 159 116 120 158 113 159

e Ro

Stree

Dalcr os

146 163 174 137 134 146

ad Ro

169

As h ton

126 152 151 120 172

114 134 143 163 128 124 118 110

White

nald Be

132 128 175 162 168 135 151 123 170 116 150

158 152

59 60 61 62

o ht

25 26 27 28

157 156 122 140 134 147 157 155

29 Mother India 30 The Finnieston 31 The Hidden Lane Tearoom 32 Fanny Trollope’s 33 Piece 34 Panevino 35 Rockus 36 Lebowskis 37 The Brass Monkey 38 BKK Thai 39 Coffee, Chocolate and Tea 40 Riccardo’s Italian Kitchen 41 Cubatas 42 An Clachan 43 The Drake 44 Crêpe à Croissant 45 No 1 Chocolate Factory 46 Akbar’s 47 Bocadillo 48 All Star Brunch Bar 49 The New Café Salma 50 Black Sparrow 51 Chinaski’s 52 Koh-i-Noor 53 Herald Café Bar 54 Punjabi Charing Cross

llor St

15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

118 114 135 142 158

Stree

Chance

alk

55 56 57 58

Lawrenc

t ee

174 155 122 118 117

reet

Stree

Café Andaluz La Vallée Blanche Hillhead Bookclub Booly Mardy’s Bobar Bo’Vine Meats and Wines 54 The Brasserie at Òran Mór

Havel

urg

e Street

ock St

7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

BrewDog Glasgow KG Café The Pelican Café The Little Café Mother India’s Café The Den at Dining In with Mother India Banana Leaf Dukes Bar Cushion & Cake Firebird Roast Green Chilli Café Ashoka West End The Butchershop Bar & Grill The 78 Thai Siam Lamora Restauracja U Jarka Ox and Finch Shilla Kelvingrove Café The Gannet The Ben Nevis Cailin’s Sushi 1116 Argyle Street, Finnieston Old Salty’s Crabshakk Distill The Sisters Kelvingrove

tre

Fordyce Street

9B SOUTH 1 2 3 4 5 6

ane

48 49 50 51 52 53

Have

5 6

Chancello r

tre

rgh Road

ll Gu

Highbu

White

Lawre

White Street

165 137 140

ad Ro

Caird Drive

Lawrie Street

132 173

ansid

lock S tree

Dow

nce St reet

142 145 164 118 166 122

157 155 158 143 140 150 169 161 144 120

At ho le L

ee Vict ns o Ga ria C rd Ki en resc nn s en o t

Crown Terrac e Crown Ro ad South

se rv at or yR

Princes Garden s Lane

n la

oad

s Ga rden s

L ul

Princes Terrac e Lane

nd Hy

120 129 148 123 145 153 156 163 171 159 165 122 148 150

y Roa d

irc ia C

rnberr

138 128 139 144 129

Prince Albert Road Princes Terrac e

Crown Road North Crown Garden

2 3

150

rso

46 47

36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45

rin

34 35

an e ne

Stewartville Stre et

29 30 31 32 33 34

ce L

Gardner Street

15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28

Vic tor

10 11 12 13 14

134 146 141 134 141 133 144

Epicures of Hyndland The Kitchen Window Jelly Hill Café/Bar Cottier’s Delizique Cafezique The Rio Café Ichiban Japanese Noodle Café Big Mouth Coffee Bar and Café The Sparkle Horse Café JJ Siempre Bicycle Café The Two Figs The Butterfly and The Pig West Three Judges Dumpling Monkey Hyde Tribeca Two Fat Ladies Balbir’s Tony Macaroni Number 16 The Wee Curry Shop Bar Gumbo The Hill Chow Bar Soba Kember & Jones Fine Food Emporium Tinderbox La Vita Spuntini Brel Ketchup The Grosvenor Café The Brasserie at the Chip Ubiquitous Chip The Glasgow Curry Shop Ashoka Ashton Lane Masala Twist Nardini’s Crolla’s Gelateria The Hanoi Bike Shop The Bothy Di Maggio’s S’mug Curlers Rest Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen Avenue G Cup Tea Room

oad

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

R l nd dla Hyn

MAP 9 WEST END

GLASGOW

9A NORTH

Kings bo

PROVIDING LOCAL BUS SERVICES IN SOUTH WEST SCOTLAND | BUY YOUR BUS TICKETS ON A SMARTCARD - WWW.STAGECOACHSMART.COM

MAP 9 • WEST END GLASGOW arde

et M ou nt S tre tre et

pie r sh all S Na e riv

el lS

ds D

w m Cr o

et re St

tre

to ng rri Ca et re

tre

hle

on gt lin

et re St ol ne La es R oad

S t. G e org

iehall

Stree

52 Bath S tre e

MITCHELL LIBRARY

Lane

53 Bath

Lane

St Vincent Street

uld

Lane

Elliot

S tr eet

lie Elders

t Street

Dorse

Elmbank Crescent India Street

Street

38 39

Bu rn ba nk T

ive Dr

As hle y

e doch

Ba li

Sauch

50 51

Stree

reet Dover St

ow ne

48 49

North

ad Kent Ro

a Stre et

126 128 130 148 147 149

ingro

Kelv

Lyn

ad Kent Ro

Hill S

n Newto

rk ele

El b

ve Str eet

et tre

rb yS De Str

94 95 96

oad

Co run

Geor

Terrace

Str

Street

rin

ad Kent Ro

Way

Lane Terrace Newton

Berkeley

ree

a St

46 47

Terrace Newton

va M iner

Place Lane

ne Place La

Place Newton

Berkeley

v iner

Place

Street

Place Sanford

lio

e Terrace

Woodside

re et

Lane

Beltane

43 e e Terrac

Street Granville

31 nc

35 34

Terrace La

et ie Stre Eldersl

Woodsid

Woodside

Berkeley Str

y Stre

och Cresc do

eet

Woodside

s t Garden Clairmon

Sandyford

tre

Munro’s The Roxy 171 Black Sheep Bistro Asian Gourmet Asia Style Ka Ka Lok

rrac

Somerse

tre et

91 93 93 94 95 96

137 140 122 157 122

27 26

124 128 161

ace

Lane Fitzroy

Street

sc Royal Cre ent

Woodsid

Brechin

22 23

Street

20 24 25

t Place

Clifton Pla

Lynedoch Terr

lac

Quee n'

Elderslie

Woodlands Gat

irc

ws t Place Me Somerse

Allee La Belle

Royal Terrace Lane

Claremont Te

Stree t

ll S

Par

E lderslie

Street Clifton

ce La

Place La Belle

tre

Royal Terrace

Lan

Cir

ds Terrac e Claremont T erra

t ont Stree Clarem

St re

rk Pa

cu s

Woodlan

tre

ace

Cir

Street Lynedoch

rr.

hie

Kelvingrove Park

err

yT e

rra

rov

rkg

gW erin ine Eng in W

a err

& Kitchen 84 The Squid and Whale 85 Gambrino 86 Avenue G Speciality Coffee House 87 Café Phoenix 88 DRAM! 89 Chillies West End 90 The Halt Bar

138 145

lan

The

Kelv

144 136 172 135

137 126 122 144 168

all

lac

Artisan Roast The Richmond The Doublet Sonny & Vito’s Veldt Deli The Bay Tree Café 82 [Another] Piece 83 The Lansdowne Bar

rsh

76 77 78 79 80 81

110 123 128

aig

rde

rin

ive

a err

pie

nti

if Cl

D Be

an t

70 Philadelphia Fish and Chicken Bar 71 Inn Deep 72 Skinny’s 73 Tchai-Ovna House of Tea 74 Stravaigin Café Bar 74 Stravaigin 75 The Left Bank

Pa rk Dr ive

rkg

Park Q uad r

Kelvingrove Park

Eldon St reet

Crescent

Fron

ive

ton

ing

rr Ba

r Cla

South

Yarr ow G

Cr Ro

Wo od lan

Ota go S

Pa rk

tre

kfi eld

Belmo

73 son 74 Str e

Gib

Bu rnbank

go L

ane

rri ng ton

Ota

eet

ad Ro ds an

HUNT HU TERIAN MU USEUM

ag ue

Str

eet

a n sd

pe Ho

e Cr

Lan e nt Be lmo

Mo nt

rge

Str

Ro ad

o ide R

oods

St .G eo Srgt .eG 'se R oro gaed

e Lan v en

Belm ont

Co Co leb leb Be ro ro lm ok ok on eS eL tS tre an tre e et et

rid

Nort h Fro nt GLA LASG GOW UNIVERSITY ERSIT

hW Nort

nL ane

lvi

a ss

dl oo

Squa

Str Ba nk

Cow

Eto

eet

67 65 66 70 68 69 71

Street

St ree

eet

Ave ield Oa kf

thp ark Sou

Gre at K

Tillie

tre

nue

Ter rac e

sgo

Crescent

lhe

Par

Sou

Str

Vie wfie ld L ane

r Ga

Str

ity

ee t

rs Hil

Lan

Gre a

son

ven

ave

ark thp

lgr

Gla

Lan e

Sou

e Bute

Lan

But eG ard ens

b an k Ga Lily

e iv Un

ity Aven ue

Gib

GLASGOW UNIVERSITY

Univers

tre

So Ave uthp nue ark

lhe

thp ark

Str eet

G ra nby tre

Oa kfie ld A

Lan e

Cec il S

Sar din ia

elv in L ane

ter Rusk n R in oa Ter rac d

Ha mil ton

Ota go Str eet

Cow

57 58

tre et

Lan e

nd sla

Ave nu e

Str ee t e

Hil

rden s La

org

ce Gr ea

Raeberry

rra

nG a chm rdens ill Ro ad

rrio

tree

Str

e hL an

ort

Ker

Cra

Cra nw

eet

Bur gh Lan e

tre hS

nw ort

ane

Lan

La Wilton Cr esce nt

ert S

ing

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The List Eating & Drinking Guide 189

INDEX

Index

A Room in Leith (5A: C1, 9) 91 A Room in the West End (4: B1, 3) 91 The Abbotsford (1B: A6, 50) 22 Absolute Thai (3A: C1, 15) 102 Ad Lib (6: D4, 84) 165 Ad Lib (7: D2, 15) 165 The Admiral (6: C4, 82) 115 Affogato (4: B1, 11) 51 Aizle (3C: E2, 16) 42 Akbar’s (9B: F2, 46) 155 Al Dente (5B: C4, 32) 80 Alba (9A: F2, 66) 137 L’Alba d’Oro 16 All Star Brunch Bar (9B: G2, 48) 137 All That is Coffee (7: B3, 38) 112 Amarone (Edinburgh) (1B: A6, 51) 80 Amarone (Glasgow) (6: F4, 69) 159 Amber Restaurant (2A: B2, 33) 91 Amber Regent (6: E3, 60) 147 Amicus Apple (1A: C5, 65) 42 An Clachan (9B: E1, 42) 137 Anatolia Chargrill (6: D4, 79) 167 Angels with Bagpipes (2A: C2, 15) 91 [Another] Piece (9A: G2, 82) 145 Anteaques (3C: D1, 10) 61 The Apartment Bistro (3A: B2, 22) 42 Apiary (3C: D3, 25) 42 Appetite Direct (1A: C3, 33) 61 The Apprentice (5A: A2, off) 91 The Arches Café Bar & Restaurant (6: D6, 123) 112 Arisaig (7: C2, 20) 169 Art Lover’s Café (8: B1, off) 112 Artisan Roast (Edinburgh Southside) 61 (3A: A3, 31) Artisan Roast (Edinburgh Broughton Street) (1B: C4, 24) 61 Artisan Roast (Glasgow) (9A: F3, 76) 137 Ashoka Ashton Lane (9A: C2, 36) 155 Ashoka at the Quay (8: D1, off) 155 Ashoka Bearsden (9A: A1, off) 155 Ashoka Southside (8: A5, off) 155 Ashoka West End (9B: C1, 13) 155 Asia Style (9A: H4, 95) 147 Asian Gourmet (9A: H4, 94) 148 Assam’s (6: E3, 59) 156 The Atelier (4: B2, 55) 91 The Atholl at The Howard (1B: A3, 12) 92 The Auld Hoose (3C: E1, 8) 22 Avenue G (9A: C1, 46) 137 Avenue G Speciality Coffee House (9A: G2, 86) 137 B&D’s Kitchen (4: A4, off) 64 Babu Bombay Street Kitchen (6: C3, 48) 156 Baby Grand (6: A2, 9) 130 The Baked Potato Shop (2A: D2, 13) 61 The Bakehouse Co. (1B: C4, 23) 52 Balbir’s (9A: B3, 20) 156 The Balcony Café (8: A1, off) 112 The Balmoral Bar (2A: D1, 2) 22 Banana Leaf (Cambridge Street) (6: D1, 27) 149 Banana Leaf (Albert Drive) (8: D1, off) 156 Banana Leaf (Old Dumbarton Road) (9B: B1, 7) 156 Bangkok Bar (1B: C4, 22) 22 Bar 50 (2B: A3, 10) 23 Bar Gandolfi (7: C2, 18) 115 Bar Gumbo (9A: B3, 24) 165 Bar Kohl (2A: C3, 40) 23 Bar Missoni (2A: C3, 21) 23 Bar 91 (7: C2, 23) 115 Bar Soba (Edinburgh) (1A: D4, 86) 67 Bar Soba (Glasgow Byres Road) (9A: C2, 27) 150 Bar Soba (Glasgow Mitchell Lane) (6: E5, 114) 150 Bar Ten (6: E5, 113) 115 Bar Varia (9B: A1, off) 112 La Barantine (3A: A4, 33) 52 Barça Tapas and Cava Bar (6: F5, 110) 173 Barolo Grill (6: E5, 96) 159 The Basement Bar and Restaurant (1B: C5, 29) 23 190 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

list.co.uk

The name of each establishment is followed by its map reference (map number, grid, point number) in brackets and then by the page number of the review The Bath Street Palomino (6: C2, 21) 116 Battlefield Rest (8: D6, 27) 160 The Bay Tree Restaurant (9A: G2, 81) 138 The Beach House (5A: E1, off) 52 Beer & Skittles (1B: C5, 34) 23 Beirut (2A: D5, 67) 87 The Belle (9A: E1, 59) 116 Bell’s Diner (1A: B2, 23) 85 The Ben Nevis (9B: D2, 23) 116 Beresford Lounge (6: B2, 2) 116 Bia Bistrot (3B: A1, 1) 42 Bibi’s Cantina (9A: A3, off) 164 Big Mouth Coffee Bar and Café (9A: B3, 9) 138 Bijou (5B: C1, off) 42 Bindi (3C: D1, 3) 75 Biscuit (8: A5, 21) 138 Bisque Bar & Brasserie (3A: B3, 26) 43 Le Bistro Beaumartin (6: D4, 78) 154 Bistro Moderne (1A: B2, 24) 43 Bistro Provence (5A: B1, 4) 72 BKK Thai (9B: E3, 38) 110 Black Medicine Coffee Company 52 (Barclay Terrace) (3A: B2, 23) Black Medicine Coffee Company (Nicolson Street) (2A: D4, 73) 52 Black Rabbit (9A: E1, 61) 116 Black Sheep Bistro (9A: H3, 93) 130 Black Sparrow (9B: G2, 50) 116 The Blackbird (3A: B2, 18) 23 Blackfriars (2B: A3, 9) 43 Blackwood’s Bar & Grill (1A: B2, 26) 92 Bloc+ (6: D3, 39) 117 Blonde (3C: E2, 14) 44 The Blue Bear (1B: A1, 5) 52 Blue Dog (6: E3, 76) 117 The Blue Blazer (4: D2, 31) 23 The Blue Parrot Cantina (1A: B2, 18) 84 The Bluebird Café (1B: A2, 7) 52 Bo’Vine Meats and Wines (9A: D1, 53) 169 Bobar (9A: D1, 52) 117 La Boca (6: D3, 55) 173 Bocadillo (9B: F2, 47) 138 Boda Bar (5B: A2, 3) 23 Bodega (5B: A5, 17) 84 La Bodega Tapas Bar (9A: A3, off) 173 Bollywood: The Coffee Box (3A: B3, 27) 75 Bon Papillon (1A: C3, 28) 18 The Bon Vivant Stockbridge (1A: A1, 7) 23 The Bon Vivant (Thistle Street) (1A: D4, 80) 23 Bond No. 9 (5A: B1, 5) 24 La Bonne Auberge (6: F2, 32) 154 Bonsai Bar Bistro (Broughton Street) (1B: C5, 28) 67 Bonsai Bar Bistro (Pleasance) 67 (2B: B5, 15) Booly Mardy’s (9A: D1, 51) 118 Boteco do Brasil (Glasgow) (7: C3, 33) 167 Boteco do Brasil (Edinburgh) (2A: C4, 48) 87 The Bothy (9A: C2, 41) 169 The Bothy Restaurant & Drinkery (4: A4, off) 24 Boudoir Wine Bar (7: C2, 20) 118 The Bow Bar (2A: B3, 26) 24 Bramble (1A: D4, 88) 24 Brass & Copper Coffee (4: B1, 4) 53 The Brass Monkey (Edinburgh Old Town) (2B: A4, 13) 24 The Brass Monkey (Glasgow) (9B: E3, 37) 118 The Brass Monkey (Edinburgh Leith) (5B: A3, 12) 24 Brasserie 19 (9A: A1, off) 132 The Brasserie at Òran Mór (9A: D1, 54) 169 The Brasserie at the Chip (9A: C2, 34) 132 La Brava (8: A5, off) 160 Brazilian Sensation (3C: D1, 12) 87 Bread Meats Bread (6: E4, 75) 166 Bread Street Brasserie (4: D2, 41) 44 Brel (9A: C2, 31) 118 Brew Lab (2A: D4, 74) 53 BrewDog Glasgow (9B: C1, 1) 118

BrewDog Edinburgh (2A: D3, 79) Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or (6: C3, 49) Britannia Spice (5A: A2, 2) Broadcast (6: A2, 4) Brooklyn Café (8: A4, 16) Broughton Delicatessen (1B: C4, 20) Brown Sugar (8: C6, 26) Brutti Compadres (7: A2, 1) Brutti Ma Buoni (7: B2, 10) Buddy’s Bar Diner Grill (8: C3, 9) Buddy’s BBQ & Burgers (8: A5, 25) Buffalo Grill (Chapel Street) (2A: D5, 59) Buffalo Grill (Stockbridge) (1A: B1, 6) Bull Leader (6: E5, 116) The Bungo Bar & Kitchen (8: C2, 7) Burger (4: C3, 50) Burger Meats Bun (6: E3, 58) The Burrell Café (8: A4, off) The Butchershop Bar & Grill (9B: C1, 14) The Butterfly and the Pig (6: D2, 43) The Butterfly and the Pig West (9A: B3, 14) Buzzy’s Restaurant and Bar (6: F5, 110) The Cabin (9A: A3, off) Café Andaluz (Glasgow West End) (9A: D1, 48) Café Andaluz (Glasgow City Centre) (6: F4, 99) Café Andaluz (Edinburgh) (1A: C5, 64) Café Andamiro (3C: D1, 11) Café Cassis (3C: D3, 27) Café Cossachok (7: B3, 36) Café D’Jaconelli (9A: H1, off) Café Domenico (5A: C2, 11) Café Gandolfi (7: C2, 18) Café at GOMA (6: F5, 105) Cafe Hub (2A: B2, 31) Café Hula (6: E1, 29) Café India (7: C3, 31) Café JJ (9A: B3, 11) Café Lovestruck (8: C3, 14) Café Marlayne (Antigua Street) (1B: D5, 40) Café Marlayne (Thistle Street) (1A: C4, 71) Café Modern One (4: A2, off) Café Modern Two (4: A2, off) Café Nom de Plume (1B: C4, 15) Café Phoenix (9A: G3, 87) Café Piccante Café Pop (9A: E1, 57) Café Portrait (1B: A5, 58) Café Renroc (5B: A5, 21) Café Royal Circle Bar (1B: B6, 45) Café Royal Oyster Bar (1B: B6, 46) Café Source (7: C4, 43) Café Source Too (9A: A1, off) Café St Honoré (1A: C4, 77) Café Voltaire (2A: D3, 80) Café Wander (6: E3, 72) Cafezique (9A: B2, 6) Caffè Espresso (2A: C2, 19) Cail Bruich (9A: D1, 55) Cailin’s Sushi (9B: D2, 24) The Calabash Restaurant (6: E5, 115) The Caley Sample Room (4: B4, off) Calistoga (1A: C5, 61) The Cambridge Bar (1A: B4, 44) Candy Kitchen & Bar (1A: B5, 50) The Canons’ Gait (2B: B3, 26) Il Cappuccino (9A: F2, 65) Carluccio’s (6: E4, 92) Casa Angelina (1B: C4, 14) Castello Coffee Co (1A: B5, 55) Castle Terrace (4: D1, 27) CC Blooms (1B: D5, 36) CC’s Wood-fired Pizza Pie Company (8: A5, off) Celadon (3C: D3, 23) Celino’s (7: D1, off) Centotre (1A: B5, 60) Central Market (7: C2, 19) La Cerise (5A: B2, off)

24 155 75 118 139 53 139 132 118 166 110 85 85 150 132 85 166 112 132 118 120 166 169 174 174 101 67 44 167 139 81 132 112 53 139 156 139 139 72 72 18 18 53 140 16 140 18 53 26 70 170 170 92 26 140 133 61 170 150 167 26 86 26 26 28 145 160 61 61 92 28 110 102 160 81 133 53

Channings Restaurant (4: A1, off) Chaophraya (Edinburgh) (1A: B5, 59) Chaophraya (Glasgow) (6: F3, 68) Charcoals (6: E4, 74) Charcoals Café (7: C3, 35) Cherry and Heather Fine Foods (8: C1, off) Chez Jules (1A: D4, 90) Chillies West End (9A: G3, 89) China Blue (6: E3, 63) China Town (4: B2, 58) Chinaski’s (9B: G2, 51) The Chocolate Tree (3A: B3, 29) Chop Chop (West End) (4: B2, 61) Chop Chop (Leith) (5A: C1, 7) Chow (9A: C2, 26) Circle by Di Giorgio (1B: A1, 6) Circus (2B: B3, 21) Citation (7: B2, 9) City Art Centre Café (2A: D2, 10) The City Café (2A: D3, 81) City Café Bar and Grill (9B: G3, off) City Merchant (7: C2, 22) Clean Plates Café (9A: H1, off) Clerk’s Bar (3C: D2, 19) Clockwork Beer Co (8: D6, off) The Cloisters (3A: C1, 6) Cocktail & Burger (6: B2, 15) The Codfather Coffee, Chocolate and Tea (9B: E3, 39) Coffee Angel (1B: A2, 4) Coia’s Café (7: D1, off) The Compass Bar (5A: D2, 28) Connect Café (1A: A2, off) Cook and Indi’s World Buffet (Sauchiehall Street) (6: B2, 13) Cook and Indi’s World Buffet (Bath Street) (6: E3, 62) Cookie (8: C2, 6) Copper Bird Café (4: B2, 52) The Corinthian Club (7: B2, 3) Cottier’s Bar and Restaurant (9A: B2, 4) Cottonrake (9A: F2, 64) Crabshakk (9B: D2, 26) Crafters Barn (2A: C2, 17) Cranachan (6: F5, 110) Credo (5A: D2, 29) Crêpe à Croissant (9B: G1, 44) Crolla’s Gelateria (9A: C2, 39) Croma (4: C2, 44) Cross & Corner (1B: B2, 8) Cubatas (9B: F2, 41) Cucina LC (4: A3, 68) Cucina (2A: C3, 21) Cuckoo’s Bakery (1A: D1, 34) The Cumberland Bar (1B: A4, 13) Cup Tea Lounge (6: E3, 61) Cup Tea Room (9A: C1, 47) Curlers Rest (9A: C1, 44) Curry Pot Cushion & Cake (9B: C1, 9) Daft Jamie’s (2A: D3, 83) Dakhin (7: C2, 24) Darcy’s (6: F5, 110) David Bann (2B: B3, 17) Deli 1901 (8: A5, 20) Delizique (9A: B2, 5) Den Bar & Restaurant (9A: A1, off) The Den at Dining In with Mother India (9B: C1, 6) Dennistoun Bar-B-Que (7: D1, off) The Devil’s Advocate (2A: C2, 16) The Dhabba (7: C2, 26) Di Maggio’s (Pollockshaws Road) (8: A4, 17) Di Maggio’s (Royal Exchange Square) (6: F5, 107) Di Maggio’s (Ruthven Lane) (9A: C1, 42) Di Maggio’s Theatreland (6: F2, 31) Diner 7 (5A: C1, 12) The Dining Room (1A: D4, 83) Distill (9B: D2, 27) Divino Enoteca (2A: C3, 43)

92 102 174 156 156 145 72 157 148 64 120 62 65 65 148 53 87 133 18 28 133 170 113 28 120 28 120 16 146 54 160 28 54 167 167 133 62 133 134 146 151 28 140 44 146 140 81 28 174 54 81 54 30 140 140 120 110 140 92 157 120 44 146 141 120 157 166 30 157 161 161 161 161 86 94 120 81

INDEX

In association with

The Dogs (1A: D4, 87) The Dome Grill Room (1B: A6, 52) The Doocot Café and Bar (6: E5, 112) The Doublet (9A: F2, 78) Dovecot Café by Stag Espresso (2B: A4, 12) Dragon-i (6: E2, 30) Dragonfly (2A: A3, 36) The Drake (9B: F1, 43) DRAM! (9A: G3, 88) The Drill Hall Café (5B: B3, 9) Dukes Bar (9B: C1, 8) Dumpling Monkey (9A: B3, 16) Dusit (1A: D4, 81) Earthy Canonmills (1B: A1, 3) Earthy Market Café (3C: D5, 31) Eat Café (8: A5, 24) Eat Deli (8: A5, off) Ecco Vino (2A: D2, 5) Edinburgh Larder Bistro (4: B1, 14) Edinburgh Larder Café (2B: A3, 8) The Edwardian Kitchen Restaurant (8: A4, off) EH15 (5A: E1, off) El Quijote (3A: C1, 5) Element (1A: C5, 63) Elià (6: F4, 102) Embo (5B: A5, 18) Emirates Arena Café (7: B5, off) Empires (2B: B3, 20) The Engine Shed (3C: E2, 15) Epicures of Hyndland (9A: A1, 1) L’Escargot Blanc (4: B1, 13) L’Escargot Bleu (1B: C4, 17) The Espy (5A: E1, off) Eteaket (1A: C4, 70) Falko (Konditormeister) (3A: A4, 35) Fanny Trollope’s (9B: D2, 32) Fatma (5A: B1, 3) La Favorita (5B: A3, 10) Field (2A: D5, 61) Fifi and Ally (6: F5, 110) 56 North (3C: D1, 1) 52 Canoes (4: A1, 6) Filmhouse Café Bar (4: C2, 38) The Finnieston (9B: D2, 30) Fino (9B: D3, off) La Fiorentina (8: D1, off) Firebird (9B: C1, 10) First Coast (4: A4, 71) The Fish People Café (8: D1, off) Fishers Bistro (5A: C1, 15) Fishers in the City (1A: D4, 79) The Flavour Co (9A: E1, 62) Fleur de Sel (1A: C4, 75) The Flying Dog (5A: C3, off) Foodies at Holyrood (2B: C3, 27) The Forest Café (3A: C1, 1) Forth Floor Brasserie (1B: B5, 54) Forth Floor Restaurant (1B: B5, 44) The Fountain (4: B4, 72) Franco’s Fratelli Sarti (Bath Street) (6: D3, 40) Fratelli Sarti (Renfield Street) (6: E4, 73) Fratelli Sarti (Wellington Street) (6: D3, 38) Freemans (3C: A2, 34) French Press Coffee Company (1A: D3, 36) Frosoulla’s (8: D6, 29) The Fruitmarket Gallery Café (2A: D2, 3) Gaia Delicatessen (5B: A3, 13) Galvin Brasserie de Luxe (4: B1, 21) Gamba (6: D3, 53) Gambrino (9A: G2, 85) Gandolfi Fish (7: C2, 17) Gandolfi Fish to Go (7: C2, 17) The Gannet (9B: D2, 22) The Gardener’s Cottage (5B: A6, 26) La Garrigue (2B: B2, 2) The Gateway Restaurant (1B: A1, off) Ghillie Dhu (4: B1, 20) The Giffnock Ivy (8: A5, off) Giuliano’s (1B: D5, 35) Giuliano’s on the Shore (5A: C1, 13) The Glad Café (8: B4, 13) The Glasgow Curry Shop (9A: C2, 35) Glass & Thompson (1A: D3, 40) Golden Dragon Castle (1A: B5, 57) Gorgie City Farm Café (4: A4, off) The Grain Store (2A: B3, 24) Gran Caffè (2A: C3, 20)

44 45 113 122 20 148 30 134 122 20 122 148 102 45 54 141 141 30 45 54 113 94 101 30 168 62 113 87 54 134 72 72 30 54 55 134 87 81 94 141 30 86 20 152 174 161 134 45 152 70 71 146 73 32 55 55 45 94 32 16 161 161 161 55 62 168 20 62 46 152 161 152 110 170 94 73 20 32 134 81 82 141 157 55 65 55 94 56

The Grassmarket Café (2A: B3, 39) Grays Kitchen (9A : A1, off) Green Chilli Café (9B: C2, 12) Greenmantle (3C: D1, 4) The Grill on the Corner (6: D4, 83) The Grill Room at the Square (6: F5, 108) The Grosvenor Café (9A: C2, 33) The Guildford Arms (1B: B6, 44) Gusto (1A: B5, 48) Gusto & Relish (8: C3, 12) Guy’s Restaurant & Bar (7: C3, 34) Hadrian’s Brasserie (2A: D1, 2) The Halt Bar (9A: G3, 90) Hamilton’s Bar and Kitchen (1A: B2, 14) Hanam’s (2A: B3, 29) Hanedan (3C: D3, 21) The Hanging Bat (4: C2, 45) The Hanoi Bike Shop (9A: C2, 40) Harajuku Kitchen (3A: B2, 20) The Haven (5A: A2, off) Hay Sushi (4: A3, 65) Hector’s (1A: B1, 9) Hellers Kitchen (3C: D3, 29) Hemma (2B: D3, 28) Henderson’s Shop & Deli (1A: D4, 85) Henderson’s @ St John’s (4: C1, 18) Henderson’s Vegetarian Restaurant (1A: D4, 85) Henderson’s Bistro (1A: D4, 84) Henri of Edinburgh (Stockbridge) (1A: A1, 3) Henri of Edinburgh (Morningside) (3B: A4, 6) Henricks Bar & Bistro (3A: B2, 21) Herald Café Bar (9B: G2, 53) Hernandez & Co. (4: B1, 12) Hewat’s Restaurant (3C: D3, 22) The Hidden Lane Tearoom (9B: D2, 31) The Hill (9A: D2, 25) Hillhead Bookclub (9A: D1, 50) Ho Wong (6: C6, 125) The Holyrood 9A (2B: B3, 16) Hong Kong Express The Honours (1A: B4, 42) The Hope (6: D5, 128) Hotel du Vin Bistro (Edinburgh) (2A: C4, 50) Hotel du Vin Bistro (Glasgow) (9A: A1, off) Howies (Victoria Street) (2A: C3, 23) Howies at Waterloo (1B: C6, 42) The Howlin’ Wolf (6: D3, 37) Hula Juice Bar and Gallery (2A: B3, 34) Hutchesons (7: B2, 6) The Huxley (4: B1, 19) Hyde (9A: B4, 17) The Hyndland Café (9A: A1, off) Ian Brown Food and Drink (8: A5, off) Ichiban Japanese Noodle Café (Queen Street) (6: F5, 118) Ichiban Japanese Noodle Café (Dumbarton Road) (9A: B3, 8) Iglu (1A: C3, 27) Ignite (4: B2, 62) iKafe (8: B2, 2) Illegal Jack’s (4: C2, 40) Iman’s (3A: B1, 12) Imperial Palace (4: A4, off) Indaba (3A: B1, 8) India Quay (9B: G3, off) Indian Cottage (7: C3, 30) Indian Platform (9A: D1, off) Indigo Yard (4: B1, 10) Inn Deep (9A: F2, 71) The Inn on the Mile (2A: D2, 12) Iris (1A: D4, 82) Isobar (5A: D2, 22) The Italian Bistro (9A: D1, off) Italian Kitchen (1A: B2, 11) The Italian Caffè (7: C2, 16) The Italian Kitchen (7: C2, 12) Itchycoo Bar & Kitchen (2B: A3, 7) Jacker de Viande (6: D3, 54) Jacob Artisan Bakery (Old Town) (2A: D3, 78) Jacob Artisan Bakery (Haymarket) (4: A3, 67) Jake’s Place (2A: D2, 4) Jamie’s Italian (Edinburgh) (1A: D5, 67)

56 146 157 32 135 170 122 32 82 141 135 46 122 33 88 88 33 150 68 56 68 33 46 33 62 56 96 46 56 56 33 113 62 96 114 122 122 148 33 110 46 122 46 170 96 96 123 56 135 34 123 141 171 150 150 96 75 141 84 75 65 88 157 157 157 34 123 34 46 34 162 82 162 162 47 166 56 56 34 82

Jamie’s Italian (Glasgow) (6: G4, 104) Jasmine Chinese Restaurant (4: C1, 35) Jelly Hill Café/Bar (9A: A1, 3) Jeremiah’s Taproom (5B: A6, 25) Joseph Pearce’s (5B: A5, 23) Juan Chihuahua (6: B2, 11) Juniper (1B: B6, 48) Ka Ka Lok (9A: H4, 96) Kalpna (3C: D1, 6) Kama Sutra (4: C2, 39) Kampong Ah Lee Malaysian Delight (3C: D1, 9) Kampung Ali Malaysian Delight (4: C3, 48) Kanpai (4: D1, 32) Karen’s Unicorn (Abercromby Place) (1B: B4, 61) Karen’s Unicorn (St Stephen Street) (1A: C2, 17) Kasturi (4: B1, 22) Katie’s Diner (3A: B2, 24) Kebab Mahal (2A: D5, 69) Kebabish Grill (8: D2, 10) Kelvingrove Café (9B: D2, 21) KG Café (9B: C1, 2) Kember & Jones Fine Food Emporium (9A: C2, 28) Ketchup (Ashton Lane) (9A: C2, 32) Ketchup (Pollockshaws Road) (8: A5, 23) Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant (Edinburgh) (5A: D1, 19) Khublai Khan Mongolian Barbecue Restaurant (Glasgow) (7: C3, 29) Khushi’s (1B: D5, 39) Kiki’s (4: C1, 33) The Kilderkin (2B: D2, 31) Kim’s Korean Meals (3C: D1, 2) King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut (6: B3, 52) The King’s Wark (5A: C1, 23) The Kitchen Window (9A: A1, 2) The Kitchin (5A: C1, 6) Kitsch Inn (6: C2, 20) Koh-i-Noor (9B: G2, 52) KoolBa (7: C2, 21) Krua Khun Mae (2A: D2, 6) Kweilin (1A: D3, 37) Kwok Brasserie (3C: C5, 32) Kyloe Restaurant & Grill (4: B1, 19) La Locanda (2A: D2, 8) La Tea Doh (8: B2, 3) Laboratorio Espresso (6: E3, 67) Laila’s Bistro (2A: D2, 9) Lamora (9B: D2, 17) The Lansdowne Bar & Kitchen (9A: G2, 83) La Lanterna (6: D5, 124) Las Iguanas (tiki) The Last Word Saloon (1A: B2, 20) Lebowskis (Edinburgh) (4: C2, 43) Lebowskis (Glasgow) (9B: E2, 36) The Left Bank (9A: E3, 75) The Leith Beer Co. (5A: C2, 25) Leo’s Beanery (1A: C3, 31) Leven’s (3A: C2, 17) Lian Pu (2A: D5, 68) The Lioness of Leith (5B: B1, 1) The Little Café (9B: C1, 4) Little Urban Achievers Club (9A: F1, 63) Loch Fyne Seafood and Grill (5A: A2, off) Lola and Livvy’s (6: D6, 122) Loon Fung (Edinburgh) (1B: A1, 2) Loon Fung (Glasgow) (6: A2, 6) Los Argentinos (3C: D3, 20) Los Cardos (5B: A3, 7) Loudon’s Café & Bakery (4: C3, 51) Lovecrumbs (4: D2, 29) Lucky 7 Canteen (6: C2, 45) The Lucky Liquor Co (1A: C4, 76) LUV Café (9B: A1, off) Lychee Oriental (6: E5, 117) Machina Espresso (3A: C1, 10) MacSorley’s (6: E6, 121) The Mad Hatter (4: B2, 60) Maggie May’s (7: C3, 32) The Magnum Restaurant & Bar (1B: B4, 59) Maialino (4: B2, 59) Maison Bleue (2A: B3, 28) Malaga Tapas (8: D1, off)

162 65 141 34 34 164 35 149 75 75 68 68 68 66 66 76 86 76 158 123 114 142 166 166 88 168 76 62 35 68 124 35 146 96 174 158 158 103 66 66 96 82 146 146 88 162 124 162 168 35 35 124 135 35 56 103 66 35 142 124 71 142 66 149 88 84 56 57 135 35 142 149 62 124 35 171 97 63 73 174

Malmaison (6: B3, 51) Malmaison Brasserie (5A: C1, 14) Malone’s Irish Bar (Glasgow) (6: D2, 36) Malone’s Irish Bar (Edinburgh) (2A: C4, 54) Malvarosa (5A: E1, off) The Manna House (5B: C5, 29) Le Marché Français (4: B2, 63) Mariachi (2A: B3, 25) Marie Delices (3B: A5, off) Mario’s Martha’s (6: D4, 80) Mary’s Milk Bar (2A: A3, 37) Masala Twist (9A: C2, 37) Masala Twist Tikka and Tapas Bar (6: E2, 35) The Mash Tun (5B: C4, 31) Master Sun’s Hot Pot (6: D1, 26) Maxi’s (1A: A1, 4) McCune Smith Café (7: D1, off) McKirdy’s Steakhouse (4: B2, 53) Meadowberry (3A: B3, 28) Meat Bar (6: D3, 41) Mediterraneo (7: B2, 7) The Melville (4: B1, 5) The Mercat Bar & Restaurant (4: B2, 64) Merchant Chippie (7: D2, 14) Metropolitan (7: C2, 20) Mezbaan South Indian Restaurant (3A: C1, 4) Mia (4: A4, 70) Mia Roma (6: C2, 24) Michael Neave Kitchen & Whisky Bar (2A: D3, 82) Milk (4: B2, 57) Milk at Collective (1B: D6, 41) Miller & Carter Cramond Brig (1A: A1, off) Mimi’s Bakehouse (5A: C2, 26) Mimi’s Picnic Parlour (2B: B3, 23) Mint Café (4: C2, 49) Mintleaf (5A: D1, 18) Miro’s Cantina Mexicana (1A: B5, 52) Miso & Sushi Mithas (5A: C1, 8) Molly Malones (6: E2, 34) Mono (7: B4, 42) Monteiths (2B: A2, 5) Montpeliers Bar and Brasserie (3A: A4, 32) Moskito (6: C2, 23) The Mosque Kitchen (2A: D5, 64) Mother India’s Café (Edinburgh) (2A: D4, 77) Mother India (Glasgow Westminster Terrace) (9B: D2, 29) Mother India’s Café (Glasgow Argyle Street) (9B: C1, 5) Mother’s (1A: C3, 30) Moyra Jane’s (8: B2, 5) Mulberry Street Bar Bistro (8: C3, 13) Mums Great Comfort Food (2A: C4, 51) Munro’s (9A: H3, 91) Museum Brasserie (2A: C4, 47) The Mussel and Steak Bar (Jeffrey Street) (2B: B2, 3) The Mussel and Steak Bar (Grassmarket) (2A: B3, 38) Mussel Inn (Edinburgh) (1A: C5, 66) Mussel Inn (Glasgow) (6: D4, 77) My Big Fat Greek Kitchen (3A: C1, 3) Nachos (8: A5, 22) Naked Soup (9A: D1, 56) Namaste Kathmandu (2A: C4, 52) Nanakusa (6: A2, 1) Nanyang Malaysian Cuisine (2A: A5, 56) Nardini’s (Edinburgh) (3A: A4, 34) Nardini’s (Glasgow) (9A: C2, 38) Natural Foods Etc (3C: D2, 13) Nawroz (2A: D5, 66) The New Café Salma (9B: G2, 49) New Town Deli (Broughton Street) (1B: C4, 19) New Town Deli (Henderson Row) (1A: D1, 35) The New York Steam Packet (1A: D5, 68) Nic’s NYC Deli (6: E6, 120) Nice ‘n’ Sleazy (6: A2, 5)

155 47 124 35 101 63 73 84 63 110 142 63 158 158 36 149 57 142 97 63 124 162 36 36 110 135 76 82 162 97 57 20 86 57 57 57 76 84 16 76 125 125 47 47 125 76 77 158 158 36 143 126 48 126 20 71 71 71 152 89 164 143 77 150 68 57 143 63 89 159 58 58 86 146 126

The List Eating & Drinking Guide 191

INDEX

99 Hanover Street (1A: D4, 92) 36 Nippon Kitchen (6: E4, 71) 150 No Way Back (8: C2, 8) 143 Nobles Bar (5A: D2, 20) 36 Nonna’s Kitchen (3B: A2, 4) 82 North Star (9A: D1, off) 143 North Bridge Brasserie (2A: D2, 11) 48 No 11 Brunswick Street (5B: A5, 22) 48 Number One (2A: D1, 2) 98 No 1 Chocolate Factory (9B: G1, 45) 143 No 1 Sushi Bar (3A: B1, 7) 68 Number 16 (9A: B3, 22) 171 Nur (6 : D7, off) 168 NY Slice (6: B2, 12) 166 O Sole Mio (6: E3, 64) 162 Oink (2B: D2, 30) 63 Oink (2A: B3, 27) 63 Oishii (1A: B5, 53) 69 Old Chain Pier (5A: A2, off) 36 Old Salty’s (9B: D2, 25) 152 Olive Branch Bistro (1B: C4, 18) 48 Once Upon a Tart (7: B3, 40) 143 Ondine (2A: C3, 22) 71 One Square (4: C2, 37) 48 1116 Argyle Street, Finnieston (9B: D2, 25) 126 Ong Gie (3A: C1, 11) 69 Opium (6: D3, 56) 151 The Orchard (1B: A1, 1) 37 Origano (5B: A3, 6) 82 The Original Mosque Kitchen and Café (2A: D5, 62) 77 The Other Place (1B: B2, 9) 37 The Outhouse (1B: C5, 32) 37 The Outsider (2A: C3, 41) 48 135 Ox and Finch (9B: D2, 19) The Pacific (9A: A3, off) 126 Palm Court (2A: D1, 2) 58 Pancho Villa’s (Edinburgh) (2B: B3, 25) 85 Pancho Villa’s (Glasgow) (7: C2, 27) 164 Panda & Sons (1A: B4, 43) 37 Panevino (9B: D2, 34) 163 The Pantry (1A: B2, 25) 58 Papavero (1A: C3, 29) 83 Papercup Coffee Company (9A: E1, 58) 143 Papii (1A: D4, 91) 64 La Parmigiana (9A: F2, 68) 163 Passorn (3A: C1, 9) 103 The Pastures (3C: A2, 35) 58 Pataka (3C: C4, 30) 77 Patisserie Madeleine (1A: A1, 5) 64 Pekoe Tea (3A: C2, 16) 64 The Pelican Café (9B: C1, 3) 135 Pep & Fodder (1B: C6, 43) 58 Peter’s Yard (2A: B5, 57) 58 Peter’s Yard Stockbridge (1A: B2, 12) 58 Petit Paris (2A: A3, 35) 74 La P’tite Folie (4: B1, 8) 74 Philadelphia Fish and Chicken Bar (9A: F2, 70) 110 Pho Vietnam House (4: B2, 54) 69 Piccolo Mondo (6: C5, 126) 163 Pickles (1B: C4, 16) 37 Piece (9B: D2, 33) 143 Pierre Victoire (1B: A2, 10) 74 Pig in a Poke (1A: C5, 62) 64 Pilgrim (2B: A3, 11) 37 Pinto Mexican Kitchen (Queen Street) (6: F4, 101) 165 Pinto Mexican Kitchen (Gordon Street) (6: E4, 95) 165 Pinto Mexican Kitchen (Hope Street) (6: D5, 85) 165 The Pipers’ Tryst (6: E1, 28) 114 Plum Tree (7: C2, 25) 143 Plumed Horse (5A: C3, 30) 98 Pomegranate (1B: D5, 38) 89 The Pompadour by Galvin (4: B1, 21) 74 Port of Siam (New Town) (1B: C4, 21) 103 Port of Siam (Newhaven) (5A: A2, off) 104 59 Porto & Fi (5A: A2, off) The Pot Still (6: E3, 57) 126 The Potting Shed (2A: D5, 65) 37 Printworks Coffee (5A: D2, 21) 59 The Priory Bar & Kitchen (4: B2, 56) 38 Pudding Lane Café (8: A4, 19) 143 Pulp Fiction Café Bookstore (4: D2, 30) 59 Punjabi Junction (5B: A1, 2) 77 Punjabi Charing Cross (9B: G2, 54) 159 The Purple Pig Café (3A: C1, 14) 59 Purslane (1A: B2, 21) 98 QuattroZero (4: B1, 16) 83 Queen’s Arms (1A: C4, 72) 38 192 The List Eating & Drinking Guide

list.co.uk

Rab Ha’s (7: B2, 8) 171 Rabbie’s Café (2B: A1, 1) 59 Rafael’s (1A: B2, 13) 101 Rascals (2A: D4, 76) 38 Rawalpindi Tandoori (6: B2, 16) 159 Red Squirrel (4: C1, 25) 38 Red Box Noodle Bar (2A: D5, 60) 67 Red Onion (6: D3, 42) 135 The Regent (5B: C5, 28) 38 Republic Bier Halle (6: E5, 97) 126 Restauracja U Jarka (9B: D1, 18) 168 Restaurant at Blythswood Square (6: C3, 50) 171 Restaurant at the Bonham (4: A1, 1) 98 Restaurant Mark Greenaway (1A: B4, 41) 98 Restaurant Martin Wishart (5A: C2, 24) 75 Rhubarb (Edinburgh) (3C: E5, off) 98 Rhubarb (Glasgow) (8: B2, 4) 135 Riccardo’s Italian Kitchen (9B: F3, 40) 163 The Richmond (9A: F3, 77) 126 48 Rick’s (1A: C4 , 73) 144 The Rio Café (9A: A3, 7) Ristorante Teatro (6: A2, 8) 163 Rivage (5B: C4, 30) 77 Riverhill Coffee Bar (6: E4, 94) 147 Riverside Café (9B: A1, off) 114 The Roamin’ Nose (1B: A2, 11) 59 Roast (9B: C1, 11) 147 Roastit Bubbly Jocks (9A: A3, off) 172 Rocca@Holyrood (2B: D3, 29) 83 Rock Lobster Bar & Grill (7: A2, 2) 152 Rocket Café (3B: A2, 3) 59 Rockus (9B: D2, 35) 128 Rogano (6: F5, 109) 153 Rollo (1A: A1, 2) 38 Ronde Bicycle Outfitters (1A: B1, 16) 59 Roots and Fruits (9A: F2, 67) 147 The Roseleaf (5A: C2, 33) 39 The Roxy 171 (9A: H3, 92) 128 The Royal Dick Bar & Bistro (3C: D2, 18) 48 Ruan Siam (1A: C3, 32) 104 Rumours Kopitiam (6: E3, 66) 151 59 S Luca of Musselburgh (3B: A1, 2) Sabor Criollo (1A: B1,10) 89 The Safari Lounge (5B: C5, off) 39 New Saffrani (2A: D4, 75) 77 Saigon Saigon Restaurant (1B: B6, 49) 67 St Mungo Museum Café (7: D1, off) 114 St Giles’ Cathedral Café (2A: C2, 14) 21 St Louis Café Bar (9A: A3, off) 167 La Sal (3C: D1, 5) 102 The Salisbury Arms (3C: E4, 28) 39 Sapporo Teppanyaki (7: D2, 13) 151 Saramago Café Bar (6: B2, 17) 114 Scotch (2A: D1, 2) 39 The Scottish Café and Restaurant (2A: B1, 1) 21, 98 The Scran & Scallie (1A: A1, 1) 39 See Woo Restaurant (6: D1, off) 149 The 78 (9B: C2, 15) 128 The Shandon Belles (9B: G3, off) 136 Shebeen (4: C2, 42) 90 Shezan (1B: D5, 37) 78 Shilla (Edinburgh) (1A: D3, 39) 69 Shilla (Glasgow) (9B: D2, 20) 151 The Ship on the Shore (5A: C1, 17) 71 The Shore Bar & Restaurant (5A: C1, 16) 49 Siempre Bicycle Café (9A: B3, 12) 144 Simply Fish (9A: A1, off) 153 Singl-end (6: A1, 1) 163 The Sisters Jordanhill (9A: A1, off) 172 The Sisters Kelvingrove (9B: D2, 28) 172 The Skerries (4: A4, off) 98 128 Skinny’s (9A: F2, 72) Skylark Café (1A: B2, 15) 59 The Skylark (5A: E1, off) 49 Sloans (6: F6, 119) 128 Slouch (6: C2, 22) 128 Smile Café (9A: D1, off) 147 Smoke Stack (1B: C4, 25) 86 S’mug (9A: C1, 43) 144 Social Bite (Rose Street) (1A: B5, 58) 60 Social Bite (Shandwick Place) (4: B1, 23) 60 Sofi’s (5A: C2, 32) 39 Sonar Gao 16 Sonny & Vito’s (9A: F2, 79) 144 The Southern (3C: D2, 17) 39 The Southsider (2B: A5, 14) 39 The Sparkle Horse (9A: B3, 10) 128 Spice Lounge Kitchen (4: A4, off) 78 The Spice Pavilion (1A: D3, 38) 78

Spirit of Thai (4: C1, 36) Spoilt for Choice Spoon (2A: D4, 72) The Squid and Whale (9A: G2, 84) Stac Polly (1B: B4, 60) Stac Polly Bistro (2B: B3, 18) Stac Polly Brasserie, Wine and Gin Bar (1B: B4, 60) Stack Dim Sum Bar (5B: B3, 8) The Stand (1B: B5, 57) Steak (1B: C5, 33) Steampunk Café (6: E4, 89) Stereo (6: E4, 88) The Stockbridge Restaurant (1A: B2, 19) Stockbridge Tap (1A: B1, 8) The Storytelling Café (2B: A2, 4) Strada (1A: B5, 56) Stravaigin (9A: F3, 74) Stravaigin Café Bar (9A: F3, 74) The Street (1B: C5, 31) The Suburban Pantry (4: A1, off) Suree Thai (1A: B2, 22) Suruchi (2A: D4, 70) Sushiya (4: B3, 66) Sweet Melindas (3C: B2, 36) Sygn (4: B1, 9) Sylvesters (2A: D5, 58) Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen (Edinburgh) (1A:D5, 69) Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen (Glasgow Byres Road) (9A: C1, 45) Taco Mazama Mexican Kitchen (Glasgow Renfield Street) (6: E4, 93) The Tailend Tang’s (2A: C4, 45) Tanjore (3C: D1, 7) Tapa Bakehouse (7: D1, off) Tapa Coffeehouse (8: C3, 11) Tapa (5A: C2, 27) Tchai-Ovna House of Tea (9A: F2, 73) The Tea Room at the Botanics (9A: D1, off) The Tearooms @ The Butterfly and the Pig (6: D2, 43) Tempo Tea Bar (6: F5, 106) Tempus (Edinburgh) (1B: A6, 53) Tempus Bar and Restaurant (Glasgow) (6: D4, 86) 10 to 10 In Delhi (2A: D5, 63) Terrace Café (1B: A1, off) Teuchters (4: B1, 3) Teuchters Landing (5A: C1, 10) Tex Mex II (1A: C4, 78) Thai Lemongrass (Edinburgh) (3A: B2, 25) Thai Lemongrass (Glasgow) (6: E2, 33) Thai Orchid (2A: B3, 30) Thai Siam (9B: D2, 16) Thairiffic (6: C2, 19) Th’eatery (2A: D4, 71) The 13th Note Café/Bar (7: B3, 39) Three Birds Restaurant (3A: A3, 30) Three Judges (9A: B3, 15) Thyme (4: D2, 46) Tibo (7: D1, off) Tigerlily (1A: B5, 49) The Tiki Bar (6: C2, 20) Timberyard (4: D1, 28) Time 4 Thai (1A: B4, 45) Tinderbox (Byres Road) (9A: C2, 29) Tinderbox (Ingram Street) (7: C2, 11) Tinderbox (Princes Square) (6: F5, 110) Ting Thai Caravan (2A: C4, 49) Tinto Tapas Bar (8: D6, 28) Toast (3C: A3, 33) Tonic (1A: B4, 46) Tony Macaroni (Byres Road) (9A: B3, 21) Tony Macaroni (John Street) (7: B1, 5) Tony Macaroni (West George Street) (6: E4) Torres (6: B2, 14) The Tourmalet (5B: A3, 11) Tower Restaurant (2A: C4, 46) Tramway Café Bar (8: D1, 1) Trans-Europe Café (7: C3, 41) Traverse Bar Café (4: C1, 26) Treacle Bar and Kitchen (1B: C5, 27) The Treehouse (3A: B2, 19) Tribeca (9A: B3, 18) Tron Theatre (7: C3, 37) Tropeiro (6: C5, 127) Tuk Tuk (3A: B1, 13)

104 16 49 128 99 99 39 67 21 99 128 128 99 40 21 83 172 136 40 49 104 78 69 71 40 49 85 165 165 16 70 78 144 144 102 144 114 144 147 49 136 80 21 40 40 85 104 174 105 175 175 22 129 50 129 64 136 50 129 100 105 145 145 145 105 174 50 40 163 163 163 174 40 100 114 145 22 40 60 145 114 168 80

Tupiniquim (2A: C5, 55) 90 Turkish Kitchen (1A: B5, 54) 90 The Turquoise Thistle (1B: C5, 30) 100 Twenty Princes Street (1B: B6, 48) 100 Two Fat Ladies (9A: B3, 19) 153 Two Fat Ladies at the Buttery (9B: G3, off) 153 Two Fat Ladies in the City (6: C3, 46) 154 The Two Figs (9A: B3, 13) 129 21212 (5B: A6, 27) 75 Two Thin Laddies (4: D2, 47) 60 Ubiquitous Chip (9A: C2, 34) 173 Under the Stairs (2A: C3, 44) 40 Union of Genius (2A: C4, 53) 64 Urban Angel (Forth Street) (1B: C5, 26) 50 Urban Angel (Hanover Street) (1A: D4, 89) 50 Urban Bar & Brasserie (6: F4, 98) 136 Urban West Coffee House (4: B2, 2) 64 La Vallée Blanche (9A: D1, 49) 155 Valvona & Crolla Caffè Bar (5B: A5, 24) 60 Valvona & Crolla Vincaffè (1B: B5, 55) 83 Variety Bar (6: A2, 7) 129 Veldt Deli (9A: F2, 80) 168 Velvet Elvis (9A: A3, off) 129 The Ventoux (3A: C1, 2) 40 Vespbar (6: E4, 90) 129 Via Italia (6: E4, 87) 164 Victoria (5B: A2, 5) 40 The Vintage (5A: C3, 31) 41 Vinyasa (2B: B3, 19) 80 La Vita (6: F4, 100) 164 La Vita Spuntini (9A: C2, 30) 164 Vittoria (George IV Bridge) (2A: C3, 42) 83 Vittoria (Leith Walk) (5B: A4, 16) 83 Viva Brazil (6: C4, 81) 168 Viva Mexico (2A: D2, 7) 85 The Voodoo Rooms (1B: B6, 47) 50 Voujon (3C: D3, 26) 80 Vroni’s Wine & Champagne Bar (6: E4, 70) 130 Wagamama (Glasgow) (6: E4, 71) 151 Wagamama (Edinburgh West End) (4: C1, 24) 70 Wagamama (Edinburgh Leith) (5A: A1, 1) 70 Wannaburger (4: B1, 15) 87 The Water of Leith Café Bistro (5A: B2, 34) 61 The Waverley Tea Room (8: A4, 18) 130 Wedgwood the Restaurant (2B: B3, 24) 100 The Wee Curry Shop 159 (Buccleuch Street) (6: D1, 25) The Wee Curry Shop (West End) (9A: B3, 23) 159 Wee Fry 110 The Wee Guy’s (7: B1, 4) 145 Wee Lochan (9A: A1, off) 173 WEST Brewery (7: D5, off) 130 The WestRoom (4: B1, 7) 41 Where the Monkey Sleeps (6: C3, 47) 145 Whighams Wine Cellars (4: B1, 17) 41 Whiski (2B: A2, 6) 41 Whiski Rooms (2A: C2, 18) 100 The White Elephant (8: A5, off) 130 The White Horse (2B: B3, 22) 41 Wild Cabaret & Wicked Lounge (7: B3, 28) 130 The Wild Restaurant (3C: D3, 24) 51 Wildfire Restaurant and Grill (1A: B5, 51) 100 The Willow Tea Rooms (Sauchiehall Street) (6: D2, 44) 114 The Willow Tea Rooms (Buchanan Street) (6: E5, 111) 115 Windows Restaurant (6: G4, 105) 173 Windsor Buffet (5B: A5, 20) 41 Wing Sing Inn (4: B4, 73) 67 The Witchery by the Castle (2A: B2, 32) 100 Wok and Wine (1A: C4, 74) 67 Woodland Creatures (5B: A2, 4) 41 Word of Mouth (5B: A4, 15) 61 Wudon (9A: E1, 60) 151 Yadgar Kebab House (8: D1, off) 159 Yellow Bench (5B: A3, 14) 90 Yeni (1A: D4, 94) 90 Yes Sushi (1A: D4, 93) 70 Yiamas Greek Taverna (6: F3, 65) 168 Zen Kitchen 16 Zest (1B: B5, 56) 80 Zucca (4: C1, 34) 84 The Zulu Lounge (3B: A4, 5) 64 Zupa (5B: A5, 19) 90

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