Winter Journeys

CHILL OUT

Though the Scottish islands and west coast seem to be at their most appealing when bathed in the long, bright light of summer, Donald Reid finds that there’s just as much to enjoy there in the winter months

The nightly weather bulletin isn’t, if truth be told, the best advertisement for this part of the country, with splodges of rain and large wind arrows plastered over Scotland’s western seaboard. And make no mistake, the seasons are meaningful in these parts: in summer it’s busy and bright, while in winter things are significantly darker and less populated. But life goes on, and it can be a special privilege to experience it.

OK: the weather. Sure, the ferries can be disrupted, but it’s not the norm, and if the wild weather comes in it can be dramatic and bracing, nature in the raw, the ferocity compelling. What’s more, it changes. You appreciate better how the landscape has been shaped by its proximity to the Atlantic ocean.

Being by the sea, snow and frost are rare, though you’ll get vistas of snow-capped peaks further away, and there is some winter hill climbing to be done on Skye, Arran and Jura. On cool, crisp days in winter, the sharpness of light and clarity of air can be breathtaking – and very special for photographers. When the dark falls, the star-dappled sky and opportunities to see the aurora are magical – there’s even a Dark Skies Festival in Lewis in February.

If it is a bit chilly, then all the more reason to appreciate a cosy nook, a glowing fire, a hearty meal and perhaps a warming dram of island whisky. The winter – or ‘off’ season – is the time for cheaper rates and packages at the hotels, guesthouses and restaurants, with rooms that might be out of reach (or booked up) in the summer. The level of luxury is the same all year round, and with a shorter to-do list you’ll probably find your stay all the more relaxing.

An edited choice when it comes to things to do isn’t necessarily a bad thing either. A number of island attractions remain open throughout the year, albeit with reduced hours: places such as Mount Stuart on Bute or museums and heritage centres in the main centres such as Brodick, Stornoway and Portree. Food producers don’t close their operations to fit the tourist season either, so you may well be able to pop in to see them at work, distilleries and breweries included. Local arts centres generally programme for the resident population rather than visitors, so keep an eye out for exhibitions, gigs and even a few festivals, such as Faclan, the Hebridean Book Festival, held in late October. It could be said that without the noise and distraction of all the tourists, wintertime in the west offers a more intimate insight into what life is like for those who live here. And plenty of them love it.

For further evidence of what’s going on, check out the website winterharris.com, or look for the hashtag #winterinthewild on social media.