While You Wait

TWO HOURS IN...

OBAN

Even the shortest visit to Oban is likely to include to include some food and drink: in the ferry terminal there's a café and shop run by the Food from Argyll producers cooperative, while just along the pier is the Oban Seafood Hut. For a slap-up lunch, sample the Mull scallops, Luing lobster and Loch Linnie langoustines at family-run Eeusk. Whisky fans will appreciate the Oban Distillery and Visitor Centre, one of the oldest distilleries in Scotland, predating the town itself. Their 14-year-old single malt has notes of seaweed, salt and smoke. For the sweettoothed, try The Oban Chocolate Company's handmade treats or coorie in with a hot chocolate in the café. If you're arriving by sea, you can’t miss McCaig’s Tower on the skyline. Commissioned by local banker, philanthropist and Greek architecture aficionado John McCaig, the planned museum inside was halted by a family legal challenge in 1902, leaving only the outer walls complete. The views of Kerrera, Lismore and Mull easily make the climb worthwhile, there's a car park for the less able or time-strapped, and the landscaped gardens inside are perfect for a picnic too. Alternatively, just out of town is 13th-century Dunollie Castle, built by the McDougalls of Lorn, as well as a local history museum and the popular Kettle Garden Café (seasonal). GOUROCK

Once a popular seaside resort, Gourock still retains that leisurely atmosphere. If you visit between May and September, then a dip at Gourock Outdoor Pool is a real treat. One of only three outdoor pools left in Scotland, this saltwater facility has benefitted from a recent £1.8 million renovation and is heated to 29 ºC, with a terrace overlooking the Clyde Estuary. For a walk, choose from nearby Lunderston Bay, a pleasant beach and great picnic spot, or head to the Greenock Cut Visitor Centre at Loch Thom a few miles inland. From here, you can access the Shielhill Glen nature trail, a one-hour walk which includes part of the 1820s aqueduct The Greenock Cut, or, if you've got more time, walk the the Cut's entire five-and-a-half mile length and enjoy sweeping views across the Firth of Clyde. In the town, popular coffee and brunch spot The Cove offers rye sandwiches, big salads and delicious cakes, with beautiful views over Cardwell Bay and the Firth of the Clyde. Kai Smokehouse serves excellent flatbread sandwiches, burgers and smoky ribs, and My Kitchen near the train station offers a large menu and a warm welcome. Some seaside traditions are worth keeping, however, and Bluebird Café is the spot for homemade icecream or a poke of sweeties.

TWO HOURS IN ...

Do you ever find yourself with a couple of hours to fill while waiting for a ferry or train connection? Ailsa Sheldon rounds up the most intriguing diversions surrounding the main ferry departure points

MALLAIG

As one of the principal landing spots for fish on the west of Scotland, as well as the destination of the Jacobite steam train and a ferry port, Mallaig is a busy wee place at times. After a potter round the harbour, visit the Mallaig Heritage Centre to learn about the area's maritime history, as well as crofting and the Highland Clearances. Browse Way Out West for some locally-made products and outdoor equipment (including midge repellent). Artisan bakery The Bakehouse is the best place to lunch, with excellent bread, sausage rolls, pastries and focaccia, while superb wood-fired sourdough pizzas – some featuring local venison or Scottish cheeses – are served in the adjacent Crannog. The Steam Inn offers pub classics including local fish and chips, and The Chlachain Inn makes a cracking cullen skink. For a walk, there are lovely options a short drive away. Head to Morar Cross from Morar train station, a short woodland walk with a panoramic view of Loch Morar and the Small Isles. Alternatively, visit the Silver Sands for pristine white beaches (car parking on the B8008, four miles from Mallaig) or make for the sand dunes at Camusdarach Beach (five miles from Mallaig then a short walk from the car park). Without needing to drive, the Mallaig Circuit walk has stunning views of Skye, but do take a map. ULLAPOOL

On the shore of Loch Broom, fishing village Ullapool is postcard perfect. A walk up Ullapool Hill is a fantastic way to get your bearings of the area (signposted from the A835 after Highland Stoneware). The path leads steeply up through the heather before opening out to reward your efforts with gorgeous views of the Summer Isles. With time to spare, head to the summit of Meall Mor, otherwise turn back after the viewpoint bench. The Ceilidh Place is an Ullapool treasure – pop in for a meal, a pint in the bar or a browse in their excellent bookshop. If you have a night in Ullapool, it’s great for live music too. The Arch Inn is a good choice for a seafood supper with wonderful sea views, while The Highland Liquor Company, from the same owners, is the place to try the new local gin, Seven Crofts. For something more casual, The Seafood Shack serves delicious fresh seafood bought directly from local fishermen. For fish and chips, you can’t go wrong with The Chippy – sustainable fish and crispy batter, even better when eaten by the harbour wall watching the boats (though watch out for seagulls). North West Outdoors is a helpful place for last minute outdoor kit, or binoculars to spot marine wildlife if you’re heading across the Minch.