WHILE YOU WAIT
TWO HOURS I
OBAN
GOUROCK
Even the shortest visit to Oban is likely to include to include some food and drink: in the ferry terminal there's a café and shop run by the Food from Argyll producers cooperative, while just along the pier is the Oban Seafood Hut. For a slap-up lunch, sample the Mull scallops, Luing lobster and Loch Linnie langoustines at family-run Eeusk. Whisky fans will appreciate the Oban Distillery and Visitor Centre, one of the oldest distilleries in Scotland, predating the town itself. Their 14-year-old single malt has notes of seaweed, salt and smoke. For the sweettoothed, try The Oban Chocolate Company's handmade treats or coorie in with a hot chocolate in the café. If you're arriving by sea, you can’t miss McCaig’s Tower on the skyline. Commissioned by local banker, philanthropist and Greek architecture aficionado John McCaig, the planned museum inside was halted by a family legal challenge in 1902, leaving only the outer walls complete. The views of Kerrera, Lismore and Mull easily make the climb worthwhile, there's a car park for the less able or time-strapped, and the landscaped gardens inside are perfect for a picnic too. Alternatively, just out of town is 13th-century Dunollie Castle, built by the McDougalls of Lorn, as well as a local history museum and the popular Kettle Garden Café (seasonal).
Once a popular seaside resort, Gourock still retains that leisurely atmosphere. If you visit between May and September, then a dip at Gourock Outdoor Pool is a real treat. One of only three outdoor pools left in Scotland, this saltwater facility has benefitted from a recent £1.8 million renovation and is heated to 29 ºC, with a terrace overlooking the Clyde Estuary. For a walk, choose from nearby Lunderston Bay, a pleasant beach and great picnic spot, or head to the Greenock Cut Visitor Centre at Loch Thom a few miles inland. From here, you can access the Shielhill Glen nature trail, a one-hour walk which includes part of the 1820s aqueduct The Greenock Cut, or, if you've got more time, walk the the Cut's entire five-and-a-half mile length and enjoy sweeping views across the Firth of Clyde. In the town, popular coffee and brunch spot The Cove offers rye sandwiches, big salads and delicious cakes, with beautiful views over Cardwell Bay and the Firth of the Clyde. Kai Smokehouse serves excellent flatbread sandwiches, burgers and smoky ribs, and My Kitchen near the train station offers a large menu and a warm welcome. Some seaside traditions are worth keeping, however, and Bluebird Café is the spot for homemade icecream or a poke of sweeties.
24 The Guide to Scotland’s Islands
