Seafood

Top: Kishorn Seafood Bar; Bottom, left to right: Mara Fish Bar & Deli, Nanny's

AW, SHACKS

There's something about seafood delivered fresh off the boat, cooked simply and eaten outdoors with a view of the sea and the hills. Caroline Rye celebrates the joy of no-frills coastal dining with a roundup of the west coast's finest seafood shacks, stalls and takeaways

Piles of creel-caught langoustines or oysters from the cold, clear waters of Scotland's west coast aren’t just for fancy restaurants or upscale hotels. Some of the best seafood can be enjoyed from the simplest of operations, no reservation required (though do remember that openings can be seasonal). Think juicy lobster in a cardboard tray, dripping with butter mopped up with a paper napkin, eaten perched on a bench at the end of the harbour or, perhaps more realistically, as you take shelter in your car or camper van.

For those getting on or off the boat at Oban, or even just visiting for the day, the Oban Seafood Hut serves everything from lobsters, cooked fresh to order, to stuffed seafood sandwiches. Grab a table beside its cheery green hut on the pier behind the CalMac terminal. Down the coast, The Oyster Bar and Restaurant at Ellenabeich on the Isle of Seil does feature four walls and a roof, but offers takeaway and outdoor seating to enjoy a plate of oysters with a view of the Atlantic.

Further south on the Kintyre peninsula, the Skipness Seafood Cabin serves filled rolls, locally caught shellfish and salmon from the Skipness Smokehouse. Enjoy outdoor seating in its pretty garden or huddle under

CREELING

Creels or pots have been used to catch crustaceans such as lobster, langoustines and brown and velvet crab around the west coast and Hebrides for generations. The creels are small, baited, basket-like traps that sit on the seabed and are hauled up at regular intervals to inspect the catch. Smaller specimens or unwanted species can then be returned to the sea alive, making this a relatively sustainable method of fishing, especially on a small scale.

Top to bottom: The Boathouse, Mara Fish Bar & Deli, The Oyster Shed the handy awning if the rain rolls in. Nip over on the ferry to Lochranza, meanwhile, and down the east coast of Arran at Corrie you'll find Mara Fish Bar & Deli serving up the local catch.

If you’re rolling off the ferry from Oban on to Mull, veer southwest to discover another wooden cabin, the Creel Seafood Bar at Fionnphort. Nestled on the pier for the crossing to Iona, you don’t need to be making the pilgrimage across to enjoy Isle of Mull scallops fried in garlic butter or bowls of cullen skink. If you like your seafood early doors, they also offer a fishy breakfast menu. Or head north to Tobermory, where the Fishermen’s Pier Fish Van serves all manner of local seafood to accompany a stroll around the famous harbour.

Venturing out to the community-owned island of Ulva, don’t miss The Boathouse for its homegrown oysters and local potted crab. On Islay, SeaSalt Bistro & Takeaway, while not strictly a shack, does offer seafood to go, with lobster burgers and seafood and chips on the menu, offering an alternative to pizza and kebabs. Heading north across the waves to Lewis, the family-run Uig Scallop Shack is another unpretentious spot; try a fat, white bread roll piled high with scallops and Stornoway black pudding. On the island of Grimsay, just below North Uist, the unprepossessing venue of a marine supplies shop also hosts the Namara Seafood Café, selling lobster, crab and mussels, including takeaway options. Returning to the mainland, whether you’re travelling via Ullapool or just visiting the area and its spectacular scenery, The Seafood Shack serves up locally landed seafood from a trailer near the ferry terminal. Dishes such as langoustines in garlic butter, crab cakes or haddock tempura fly out the serving hatch in eco-friendly takeaway packaging. As the road winds south, Nanny’s at Sheildaig, Torridon, offers squat lobster sandwiches, locallysmoked salmon and a child-friendly menu. Or for a slightly fancier affair, venture down to the head of Loch Kishorn, where the pastel blue cabin of Kishorn Seafood Bar serves everything from a fish finger sandwich to a super-sized seafood platter. At Kyle of Lochalsh, seek out Buth Bheag’s Fisherman’s Kitchen for cullen skink, seafood salads and even more langoustines, served from a timber-clad shop. Whether you travel by bridge or ferry to the Isle of Skye, The Oyster Shed at Carbost is handily located for a visit to the nearby Talisker distillery. Selling a wide selection of local fish and shellfish, including platters and unshucked oysters if you fancy the challenge, it’s testament to Skye’s popularity that this is open all year round.

The Best Produce of the West

There’s a story behind most of the produce available on board CalMac’s vessels. From the delicious morning roll you’ll order on your early sailing, to the famous CalMac and Cheese you might enjoy at lunch – each item is locally sourced with care and steeped in tradition and pride

KEENAN RACHEL PHOTO:

KEENAN RACHEL PHOTO:

CalMac’s menus showcase the best produce the west coast has to offer. The first-ever ferry company to achieve VisitScotland’s ‘Taste our Best’ accreditation, the CalMac team work with suppliers and producers all over Scotland and their west coast network to bring the best quality produce to passengers.

At breakfast, you can savour fresh morning rolls delivered to the vessels before dawn by Macleans Highland Bakery and Wooleys of Arran. They’re the perfect accompaniment to the free-range eggs sourced from the hens roaming around the pastures of family-run Balvicar Farm at the southern end of the Isle of Seil.

Order the well-known CalMac and Cheese for lunch and you’ll savour the Mull of Kintyre cheddar from the Kintyre Peninsula. It’s been crafted in the same Campbeltown creamery for more than 90 years, using timehonoured methods. Sources say it’s enhanced with the ‘angel’s share’ of whisky left over from when the creamery used to be a distillery. Maybe that’s why this dish is one of their most popular.

If you’re sailing later in the day and have the option, perhaps you’ll have the chance to sample a taste of the west in liquid form? From ales brewed on the beautiful islands of Arran or Islay; to gin made from botanicals growing freely and gathered by hand on the beautiful isle of Jura; to a dram from one of the many whiskies CalMac not only serve on board, but also help transport via their vessels to whisky bars and enthusiasts across the country and the world.

The produce CalMac spend time sourcing for their menus from the skilled master bakers, crofters, farmers, brewers and distillers of the west coast are an introduction to what passengers can expect from the bountiful larder at their destination.

You’ll certainly have a pleasant onward culinary journey when you explore this unique part of the world.