The List #244, Oct 15, 2015

FREE

ISSUE 244 15 OCTOBER 2015

EVERY M O N T H

T H E M A G A Z I N E T H AT K N O W S

76 Things to Do in the New Territories

CONTENTS

20

06

09

05 EDITOR’S LETTER 06 HOT TICKETS The Beautiful Game Get pumped for the Asia Rugby Sevens Qualifiers

08 GIVEAWAY

10 WISHLIST

20 FEATURE

About Town

Fringe Benefits

Get Reddie for a new look in your living room

Our guide to day trips in the N.T.

Lookbook Designer Matt Hui’s favorite fashion finds

Beauty and Wellness

Home and Away Monthly goodies for our readers

Rent a lane at Sai Kung’s new island-themed bowling bar

Hipster central

Betty Grisoni

Adorable Halloween looks for kids

Hot Dates

Tai Hang

27 WOMEN IN FOCUS

Float your stresses away in these DreamPods

What’s In

09 DATE NIGHT

26 HAPPENING ’HOODS

The LGBT activist on marriage equality

50 MRS. KNOW-IT-ALL

18 RECIPES

Party People

Kiss the Cook Eco-friendly eats for barbecues

Where to get Halloween costumes and supplies

KNOW & TEL

Great Hikes p.30

Bars & Bites p.34

Heritage Sites p.38

Outdoor Activities p.42

Hidden Gems p.46

3

TH E M AGA Z I N E THAT K N OW S

HK MAGAZINE MEDIA

EDITORIAL

The List Magazine Media Ltd.

Editor-in-Chief | Luisa Tam Managing Editor | Daniel Creffield

Morning Post Centre, 22 Dai Fat Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, New Territories, Hong Kong Tel: 852-2680-8888 Fax: 852-2660-5378 Email: thelist@hkmagmedia.com

Senior Editor | Adam White Editor | Charlotte Mulliner Acting Editor | Evelyn Lok Staff Writers | Adrienne Chum, Isabelle Hon Contributor | Kate Lok

PRODUCTION Senior Art Director | Pierre Pang Designers | Elaine Tang, Joyce Kwok Production Supervisor | Kelly Cheung

FINANCE Senior Accountant | Alex Fung Accountant | Winson Yip Assistant Accountant | Coa Wong

ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION Director of Sales | Gary Wong Strategic Sales Director | Jan Cheng Senior Sales Manager | Joyce Wu Senior Advertising Manager | Kent Ma Account Manager | Fiona Lin Advertising Executives | Bonita Yung, Celia Wong Advertising & Marketing Coordinator | Yan Man Marketing Manager | Tiffany Yew Marketing Executive | Ricardo Ng

Editorial enquiry

Sales enquiry

thelist@hkmagmedia.com

2565-2222 or advertising@hkmagmedia.com

Marketing enquiry

Circulation enquiry

marketing@hkmagmedia.com

circulationadmin@scmp.com

Copyright 2015 The List Magazine Media Ltd. The contents of The List are the property of The List Magazine Media Ltd. Reproduction in whole or part without permission is strictly prohibited. The List may not be distributed without the express written consent ofThe List Magazine Media Ltd. Contact the Advertising Director for ad rates and specifications.

All advertising in The List must comply with the Publisher's terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by Apex Print Limited, 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, N.T. Before you decide to purchase or use the products and/or services that our magazine introduces, you should gather further information about the same in addition to the representations or advertising contents in our magazine. The contents in articles by guest authors are the author’s personal views only and do not represent the position of our magazine or our company. Please gather further information about the products and/or services before you decide to purchase or use the same.

4

EDITOR’S LETTER

BACK AND BEYOND We love the fall in Hong Kong, the transition from one riotous and sweaty season into a calmer, cooler one of new projects, new opportunities, and even more good food and good times. It’s the perfect opportunity to get out of the bustle downtown and pack a bag of goodies for a picnic or barbecue in the wilderness, or a family foray into the New Territories to explore Hong Kong’s most historic and unspoiled spots.

This month, we’ve put together a guide to day-tripping in the New Territories (p.20), for green thumbs, history buffs and large broods alike. For keen trailblazers, our round-up of Great Hikes (p.30) should be useful. But the New Territories isn’t just all about hiking: Find out the best places to eat, see, and things to do out there in Bars & Bites (p.34), Heritage Sites (p.38) and Outdoor Activities (p.42). We’ve also compiled a list of our favorite Hidden Gems (p.46), full of hard-to-find but totally amazing spots to check out.

After perusing our issue, we reckon you’ll be as well-versed on the ins and outs of the north as any NT local. Have fun!

The List Team

We’d love to hear from you!

Email us at thelist@hkmagmedia.com.

List_102x155mm_SimmonsAd_MadisonBed_001_Grey StripeatSide_14May15.pdf 1 18-May-15 12:07:55

C

Get a Good Night’s Sleep!

Inspirational Living

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

Stunning Tequila Kola beds are now available with luxurious Simmons® mattresses.

Try the full range of Simmons® mattresses at Tequila Kola today!.

Flagship Designer Showroom: 1/F, Horizon Plaza, Ap Lei Chau. 2877 3295 www.tequilakola.com

5

HOT TICKETS

MAKE A DATE Our picks for the month

ING COM UP

Nov 7-8

The Beautiful Game For the rugby fiends out there, the Asia Rugby Sevens Qualifiers are right around the corner. Get ready to watch 20 beautifully athletic teams compete for the right to play at the 2016 Rio Olympics, where rugby sevens will make its debut.

Hong Kong Stadium, 55 Eastern Hospital Rd., Causeway Bay. $200 from www.ticketflap.com

Oct 22-Nov 30

Wine and Dine Me Some next-level indulging coming through: The yearly booze and glutton-fest that is the Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival has expanded to a full Wine & Dine Month, featuring street carnivals aplenty alongside the signature four-day affair (Oct 22-25). You’ll get to taste-test wines, wine-paired dishes and all the foie gras and pizza cones you can stomach from 11 areas at the Central Harbourfront. Get hungry.

Central Harbourfront Event Space, 9 Lung Wo Rd., Central. $200-1,000 from www.cityline.com

6

HOT TICKETS

Oct 19-20

Leading Ladies Award-winning singers Patti Austin, Janis Siegel and Elisa Chan Kit-ling get together for two nights of red hot jazz at The Great Ladies of Song.

Jazz lovers, don’t miss out!

8:15pm. Academic Community Hall, Hong Kong Baptist University, 224 Waterloo Rd., Kowloon Tong, 3411-5182. $380-880 from www.cityline.com

Oct 30-31

Boom Boom Pow Thanks to the World Cultures Festival, Japanese drumming group Kodo is here to beat out some crazy polyrhythms. Meaning “men drumming” in Japanese, “Dadan” explores the pure physicality of the art of Taiko drumming. Yes, that means you’ll be admiring young men making good use of their well-toned arms.

8pm. Auditorium, Sha Tin Town Hall, 1 Yuen Wo Rd., Sha Tin. $130-400 from www.urbtix.hk

Oct 16-Nov 7

Raise Your Stein Kick up your heels with Die Notenhobler band, flying in from Germany to host the Marco Polo German Bierfest for its 24th anniversary this year. As is traditional, expect lots of chicken dancing, Alphorn-blowing and Erdinger. Make sure to get there early: Between 6-7pm, if you buy a glass of beer by Octopus card you get another for free. There’s also a lucky draw to win two round-trip business class tickets to Germany—for yet more Oktoberfest shenanigans, of course.

6-11:30pm. Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, Harbour City, 3 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2113-0088. $150-280 from www.hkticketing.com

7

THE LIST

GOODIES AND GIVEAWAYS Check here every month for beauty, travel and dining treats

AROUND THE WORLD AND HOME AGAIN…

PR U IZE P S TO V $3 AL ,5 UE 52 D !

Need a much needed break from work? Have a drink (or a few) on us.

Artisanal cocktail bar The Woods is offering The List readers four tickets* (valued at $488 each) to their latest “Around the World” prix fixe cocktail pairing menu, which takes you through weekly changing cocktail selections paired with light bites, inspired by the flavors of India, Korea, Ethiopia and Mexico. Bring a friend for that much needed weeknight getaway!

Learn more about the menu at www.thewoods.hk/reservations To wrap up for the slightly cooler season, G.O.D.’s light, funky scarves are just the ticket. The homegrown company is offering five scarves to our readers, worth $320 each. Each 100 percent cotton scarf is printed with bold Hong Kong designs, and can be worn in four different ways.

About the brands: The Woods The Woods is an experiential concept cocktail bar on Hollywood Road, offering guests the chance to experience their drinks through all the senses.

The bar’s seasonal cocktail menus showcase market-fresh ingredients combined with curated spirits.

LG/F, 17-19 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2522-0281 G.O.D. Founded in 1996, Goods of Desire (G.O.D.) is a lifestyle store whose concept and products have become the epitome of original, contemporary Hong Kong design. Its award-winning products range from home furnishings to fashion and premium gifts, and are always full of humor and creativity.

Various branches including G/F & 1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876 Write in to Win! What’s your favorite thing about Hong Kong? Write in and tell us in 50 words or less.

Email: thelist@hkmagmedia.com, with the subject line “The List Giveaway” Deadline: October 30 PSST… Congrats to our lucky readers Jacqueline R. and Summer M. for winning last month’s ClassCruiser passes, and Génie C. and Amy J. for each winning a $500 cash coupon for Regina Miracle.

Write in to Win! 8

*Tickets are for one reader each, valid through Nov 28 (inclusive), on Mondays to Thursdays only. Reservations essential. Vouchers are non-exchangeable for cash, and may not be used with other promotions or discounts.

DATE NIGHT

HOT DATES Couples’ night out

Have a Bowl Bowling: the classic date night idea.

Newly opened in Sai Kung, Tikitiki Bowling Bar is not your regular 10-pin alley: It features 10 lanes styled with fluorescent pins, massive screens, and authentic island furniture. Savor tropical cocktails while perfecting that strike technique, and take a break in the garden loungers overlooking Sai Kung harbor.

4/F, Centro, 1A Chui Tong Rd., Sai Kung, 2657-8488

Monkey Around

Pirata’s Booty

Picnic Weather

For a sunny weekend brunch, Japanese gastropub Three Monkeys has launched a new Sake Sundays deal.

For $458 you can tuck into a packed menu featuring their signature yakitori, pork miso soup and Asian salads, as well as speciality Japanese omelettes. Tack on an additional $140 for free flow Kubota Senju sake, wine, craft ales or two signature cocktails— Japanese Mary and Okinawa Sakegria.

Bringing the kids along? Children under 12 eat for $258.

Hong Kong’s first vermuteria-slashItalian resto Pirata’s has a new cocktail menu created by expert barmen from around the world. While you chat about your travels with your date, sip on a Flor de Jalisco, a tequila drink from San Francisco’s Tommy’s Bar; Concorde, a white chocolate and espresso concoction from Copenhagen’s Ruby; or a rum-based Spiced Tiki from Pirata’s in-house mixologist. Down to sample some vermouth instead? Tasting flights are also available.

151-155 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 3151-7771

29-30/F, 239 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2887-0270

With a let up in the stinky, sticky weather, picnic season is upon us!

Head to your favorite patch of grass with your date on one arm and an Invisible Kitchen picnic basket on your other for a decadent lunch: think miniature black pudding with Scotch egg, rosemary and garlic lamb, an artisan cheese platter and more.

A seven-course picnic menu is $395 per person, and $1,490 for two includes a chilled bottle of Moet bubbly. Just order online, and they’ll deliver to your chosen location. www.invisiblekitchen.com

Quiz Whiz On any given night Rummin’ Tings seems to be riotous fun, especially when the beautiful crowd spills onto the streets, but Mondays are quiz nights, where teams get a chance to win a $500 dining voucher, a bottle of rum, or a hand at the bar’s “rum roulette.” Impress your date by putting your trivia knowledge to the test!

Mondays, 8pm, 28 Hollywood Rd., 2523-7070. Register your team at info@rummintings.hk

9

9

WISHLIST

ABOUT TOWN Life in the Hong Kong Lane

Bless Your Dress Ever fretted about what to wear for a important event at the last minute?

Local designer rental service Yeechoo is your one-stop shop for cocktail dresses, gala gowns and accessories, all from top brands ranging from Chanel to S. Nine by Susanna Soo. With its recently redesigned website, renting your outfit is easy. It’s just like shopping online—each item comes in a range of sizes and is accompanied by customer reviews. For a fee, you can also head to Yeechoo’s Central showroom for an in-person fitting. All dresses are dry cleaned after each rental.

From $80 for a four-day rental. 3/F, 6-7 Wo On Lane, Central, 2336-9090, www.yeechoo.com

Guava Good Time The multi-city fitness pass has finally arrived in Hong Kong!

Guavapass offers you an unlimited pass to sign up for classes from more than 50 top fitness studios in the city, from aerial yoga to aqua fitness (an aerobic workout in chest-deep water), to spinning to Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu. There’s a monthly cap of three classes per studio to encourage you to try different workouts, but you can take as many classes as you want (and are capable of!) across town. Members can easily sign up for sessions in Singapore and Bangkok while on holiday—perfect for frequent jetsetters. It’s soon set to launch in other locations across Asia, Australia and the Middle East. $899 per month. www.guavapass.com

POP-UP STORE

Reddie or Not Forget the thousandth trip to Ikea to replace that Lack coffee table: Reddie is a new furniture concept in town offering completely customizable wares. Designed by Australian interior designer Caroline Olah, Reddie furniture uses solid teak and coated metals that offer a pop of color. Everything is customizable online, from size to color, made-to-order and delivered straight to your home.

Check out the pieces in person at Reddie’s pop-up store at PMQ this month.

Through Oct 31, Shop H404, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen St., Central

10

FIRST IN HONG KONG ON

Ch 17

SEASON 2

FIRST

A ND

EXCLU SIVE

S E K A T S E R E TH H G HI PREMIERES OCT 22 THURSDAYS 10PM

JUST GOT

WESLEY SNIPES

FIRST

A ND

PHILIP WINCHESTER

EXCLUSIVE

PREMIERES NOV 10 TUESDAYS 10PM

Kingdom: ©An Endemol Studios Production for DirecTV. The Player: © 2015 Sony Pictures Television Inc. All Rights Reserved.

WISHLIST

LOOKBOOK After graduating from the Royal College of Art in London, specializing in womenswear, Matt Hui returned to the SAR in 2014 and founded his eponymous label. He’s also worked with prominent Hong Kong fashion brands Shanghai Tang and Johanna Ho. He shows The List his favorite fashion finds. www.matthui.com

4

1

2

3

5

1. Sebastian Liquid Steel

3. Magnetic pen

It’s the only way that I can fix my natural curls, especially in this very humid summer!

I got it as a gift and it’s so much fun to use. I am addicted to heavy pens, and I can use it as a magnet to pick up my pins whenever I accidentally tip them over.

2. Fashionary sketchbook I guess it’s the first fashion sketchbook ever to exist. It has fashion drawing templates that I can also use as my schedule. I just mark everything on it. When it comes to meetings with clients, I can use the template to sketch out ideas on the body so people can find it easier to understand how designs would look on an actual body.

12

4. Vintage Arch of Triumph glasses Never been a fan of contacts.

The 16K gold frame is everything— it’s classic. I wear it every day.

5. Galvanic Spa Machine I make all my patterns by myself and I am not someone that cares about

6

posture. I hurt my neck years ago, but with this device I can ease up my neck in just five minutes. I can also give myself a nice facial treatment at home, which is handy since I can never make time for the beauty salon.

6. Matt Hui Sweater This is one of my favorite pieces from my own collection. It has a velvet tape weaved between the knitted sweater.

I just love it and I would wear it myself!

SEASON 4

FIRST AND EXCLUSIVE

PREMIERES NOV 11 WEDNESDAYS 9:55PM

CH 517

CH 18 ©2013 CBS Broadcasting Inc. All rights reserved.

WISHLIST

BEAUTY & WELLNESS Your guide to looking fit and fabulous

The Smile Bar

TRIED & TESTED

The Tester: Evelyn Lok The Basics: Hong Kong’s first on-the-go teeth whitening salon brings a safe and simple Swiss technology to Wan Chai this summer—brightening your chomps by means of a teeth whitening gel, activated by a special LED lamp. First-timers are urged to opt for the Double Whitening treatment ($988), which is two 20-minute sessions back to back, and continue with monthly 20-minute top-ups for lasting pearly whites.

The Experience: Scared of sterile dentists’ offices?

The Smile Bar is the complete opposite. The homey surrounds feature private booths with sinks, where customers clean their teeth before each treatment. Julien, the operations director, then sat me down in an old school Egg Chair—It’s not just for that mid-century modern aesthetic, but mainly for comfort and privacy—as he gelled up a mouth guard, guided it on and adjusted the whitening lamp over it. Your job for the next 20 minutes is to relax yet keep still, which proved to be amusingly uncomfortable despite being given headphones and an iPad to cruise you through the ordeal. While the light causes a slight heat on the gums, the most difficult part is actually holding in your laughter (and being careful not to drool).

The Takeaway: After a double session, The Smile Bar brought me from a medium beige color—14-16 on their color scale— to a surprisingly bright 8-10, and almost a 6 on the two front teeth. It’s a quick and pain-free route towards a confident, dazzling smile—which is still keeping well more than a month after treatment, combined with The Smile Bar’s after-care products.

The Smile Bar, 1/F, Hang Wai Commercial Building, 231-233 Queen’s Rd. East, Wan Chai, 2620-0615, www.the-smile-bar.com

HOT OPENING

Floating Sensation Dee Cheung, the co-founder of Stand Up Paddle (SUP) Yoga in Sai Kung, has recently launched Float On Hong Kong—the city’s first float center aimed at helping busy urbanites iron out the stresses of the day. Floating is all about total mental and physical relaxation while your body is suspended in one of the center’s DreamPods, which are filled with epsom salt, magnesium and 34 degree water—mimicking the state of being in a zero gravity environment. A 60-minute float session starts from $630.

B/F, 89 Caine Rd., Mid-Levels, 2548-2844, www.floatonhk.com

14

WISHLIST

GET THE LOOK: HAPPY AND HYDRATED

1

Like Alchemy

Want a touch of relaxing aromatherapy on your skin?

Alqvimia’s all-natural Perfect Hands brightening hand cream is a great secret weapon to keep in your desk or purse. It helps renew the skin with the power of more than a dozen herbal ingredients, from licorice to bee propolis, lavender and almond oils. $398, Alqvimia Boutique, Shop G016-017, G/F, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-2100

2

Spot On

Ultraceuticals has an all-new line of products perfect for those with oily skin or who suffer from spots and blackheads. The Ultra Clear Treatment Lotion is packed with mandelic acid, clove oil, salicylic acid and vitamin B3—ingredients which help to renew and detox your skin—as well as keep it looking fresh and soft. $680, Mannings Plus, Shop 2004, 2/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2523-9672/ 2523-9135

3

Bombshell Beauty

Inspired by 1940s pin-up designs, Aussie skincare brand Glamourflage newly launched in town this summer, bringing its signature ranges of cute and cruelty-free products which are big on hydration. Its Vera Vamp Body Cream consists of 11 moisturizing ingredients including macadamia nut and coconut oils, aloe vera and vitamin E. It’s also scented with either freesia or grapefruit, and leaves a light pearly finish.

From $150-250, Glamourflage, LCX, Ocean Terminal, 3-37 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, www.glamourflage.com.hk

15

WISHLIST

WHAT’S IN Fiona’s Prince Shop G27, G/F, Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, 3-37 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3586-1813

Orange frill dress $TBC

Orange pumpkin coat From $3,390

Bunny jacket $2,990

Racing car shoes From $998

16

WISHLIST

Checkered shirt with bow-tie $TBC

Panda jacket From $2,990

Panda boots From $1,298

17

RECIPES

KISS THE COOK Monthly recipes from Mango Menus

With humidity and temperatures falling, the next few months are the most glorious time of year to be outside in Hong Kong, which means it’s time to fire up those barbecues.

Even if you don't have outside space in your apartment, there are plenty of barbecue pits in the parks and beaches which you can rent at zero or negligible cost, and if you're lacking any of the paraphernalia, even the smallest supermarkets seem to stock it.

Here are a couple of recipes to get you in the mood, while preserving the environment you are in. The first is for lamb lollipops, which you can pick up by the ends rather than resorting to plastic cutlery, and the second uses banana leaves to wrap up fish, instead of non-biodegradable aluminum foil.

Happy barbecuing!

Yoghurt Lamb Lollipops with Kiwi and Coconut Chutney YOU’LL NEED:

METHOD:

• 1 rack of lamb, with excess fat and tendon trimmed off. I used grass-fed lamb from New Zealand.

1. Combine the marinade ingredients

Marinade:

• 150ml Greek yoghurt • 2 cloves of garlic, minced • 2 inch cube of ginger, peeled and grated • 1 tsp cayenne or chilli powder • 1 tsp ground cumin • 1 tsp ground coriander • 1 tsp ground cardamom • ½ tsp salt Chutney:

• 2 kiwis, peeled •

cup fresh coconut

• 1 cup freshly chopped coriander leaves • 2 tbsp peanuts • 1 garlic clove • 1 red chilli, deseeded • ¼ inch ginger, grated • 2 tsp coconut sugar • ½ tsp salt • 1 tbsp water

18

in a bowl.

2. Take the lamb rack and slice it

between the bones into chops.

Immerse them in the marinade, cover and refrigerate for several hours, or overnight.

3. To make your chutney, combine

the ingredients in a food processor.

Pulse rather than blend to allow some texture to remain.

4. Heat the grill to the highest setting

and place the lamb chops on a tray.

Grill lamb chops for 3-4 minutes on each side for a medium finish.

Serves 2-3 with rice and vegetables.

RECIPES

Fish Baked in Banana Leaves YOU’LL NEED:

• 2 banana leaves (sold in some wet markets and Thai shops. One leaf is enough for four parcels, but it’s safer to buy more just in case they rip!)

• 50ml coconut/olive oil • 1 pack Thai spices—chilli, lemongrass, garlic, coriander, galangal (ginger), lime (often sold together in one pack) • 800g wild snapper or Tarakihi (seabream). Allow for 150-200g per person.

• 1 tin of thick coconut cream METHOD: 1. Preheat the oven to 200°C or light your barbecue.

2. Take one large banana leaf and cut it into quarters. Hold it over a naked flame

for a few seconds on each side to soften it. Then brush the inside with a little coconut or olive oil. Cut long strips off the other banana leaves you are not using to use as ribbons.

3. Prepare your spices by mincing the garlic, chopping the chilli and coriander,

grating the galangal and finely chopping the lemongrass.

4. Place the raw fish fillet on top of the leaf with a handful of mixed fresh

Thai spices and a generous swig of coconut milk.

5. Wrap up the parcel like a present and tie the ends with your banana

leaf ribbons.

6. Bake or grill for around 10-15 minutes.

7. Plate up, allowing your guests to unwrap the parcels themselves.

Serves 4.

Founded by Helen Scott, Mango Menus creates unique, mouth-watering recipes that contain healthy and nutritious ingredients. www.mangomenus.com

19

COVER STORY

Whether you love to relive history, tramp out into the great outdoors or gather the whole family together, the New Territories has something to offer. Charley Mulliner gives a guided tour.

20

COVER STORY

For: Get your hands and feet dirty with these outdoorsy activities.

Get Wet

Be Reserved

Escape the clutches of high rises and shopping malls with a day trip to Hong Kong Wetland Park. The 61-hectare park in Tin Shui Wai opened in 2006 to educate the public on Hong Kong’s fragile ecosystem. Come up here and see it all in action for yourself: The park’s trails will take you around mudflats, mangroves, fishponds and butterfly gardens, introducing the various species that inhabit the area. Depending on the time of year, you can expect to see nesting birds, skimming dragonflies and delicate butterflies. There are also several classrooms in the Wetland Discovery Centre if you’d like a bit of further education.

Managed by WWF Hong Kong, the Mai Po Nature Reserve is a birdwatchers’ paradise in Deep Bay that sees some 60,000 migratory waterbirds pass through each winter (see our Twitcher’s Guide on p.44 for more). It’s a fiercely protected area so you have to book a special tour through WWF, but it’s worth it for the thorough introduction to the 380-hectare span of mudflats, mangroves, freshwater ponds, fishponds and reed beds that make up the reserve. As well as birds, you could be lucky enough to come across the Chinese softshelled turtle, the common rat snake (which are not so common) or the Chinese cobra.

October is also prime dragonfly season. Threehour tours available on weekends and public holidays, $120 (includes binocular rental).

Book online at www.wwf.org.hk.

Adults $30, Children $15. Wetland Park Road, Tin Shui Wai Get there: Tin Sau or Wetland Park Light Rail Stations.

Farm it Out The Mapopo Commmunity Farm is an eco-friendly, politically savvy, grassroots organization that works hard to encourage organic farming in Fanling’s Ma Shi Po Village.

As well as lobbying the government against mass urban development, Mapopo works with local farmers to help them meet their customers. Pop up here twice a week and sample the wonderful homegrown fresh fruit and veg. You can also take a tour of the farm village or sign up to a workshop to learn how to make yoghurt bread or soap. If you want to learn how to be more sustainable, then this is the friendly bunch to get in touch with. Read our interview with farm member Zoey Wong on p.37.

Tam Kon Chau Road, Mai Po Village, Mai Po, 2471-3480, www.wwf.org.hk Get there: From Sheung Shui MTR take minibus 17 or KMB bus 76K to Mai Po Village.

Walk along Tam Kon Chau Road to the Mai Po Visitor Centre, about 20 minutes.

Ma Sik Road, Fanling, 6121-8961, mapopo.wordpress.com (Cantonese only) Get there: Take minibus 56A or 52A from Fanling MTR.

21

COVER STORY

For: If you love a destination that comes with a tale, then check out these spots.

Make a Wish

Stage an Opera

To explore some of Hong Kong’s oldest communities, head out to the mountainous region of Lam Tsuen. Here you’ll find some 26 indigenous and Hakka villages, many of which date back to the 13th century. It’s easy to visit several of these villages in a day, as they’re scattered up and down Lam Kam Road. Here you’ll find temples, ancestral halls and more. If you’re superstitious, you might like to jot down your wildest aspirations on joss paper and hang them up by the famous Lam Tsuen wishing trees—just outside the Tin Hau temple in Fong Ma Po Village.

Cantonese opera is one of the world’s most curious and intricate art forms, involving drama, singing, music, martial arts and even acrobatics. The costumes are elaborate, the make up even more so—with the story often taking a back seat to the theatrics. Make sure you catch a performance at the Ko Shan Theatre, one of the city’s last venues to devote itself to this art. It was originally an open-air theater but after a few too many show-stopping storms, a 1,000-seat theater and a 600-seat covered auditorium were built. Operas are shown here daily and many are free to watch. While you’re here, check out a heritage exhibition too.

Lam Tsuen, Tai Po, 2638-3678 Get there: Bus 64K or 64P from Tai Po MTR.

77 Ko Shan Rd., Hung Hom, Kowloon, 2740-9222, www.lcsd.gov.hk/en/kst Get there: Take buses 101, 107, 108, 111, 111P or 116 from Tsim Sha Tsui.

22

COVER STORY

Go Behind the Walls

What’s in a walled village?

The Tang clan were some of the first Chinese settlers to the area of Kam Tin in the early 14th century and Kat Hing Wai is one of the largest and best preserved of the Tang villages, with some 17th century Qing Dynasty structures still standing.

The village’s wrought iron gates have a story worth telling here: They were seized by the British army as booty during the 1899 occupation of the New Territories and stored in the Irish residence of Sir Henry Blake, the then-governor of Hong Kong. It took decades and the petitioning of Tang clan member Tang Pak-kau to get the gates returned decades later—they still guard the village today.

Walled villages, or wai, date back to China’s Song Dynasty (1127-1279) when waves of Chinese—both Hakka and Punti clans—fled Guangdong and found themselves in what is now northern Hong Kong. These clans built walls around themselves to protect against infighting and piracy. The wai was a pretty uniform set-up: a symmetrical design of four walls, with a watchtower at each corner, a guarded entrance gate and a moat. Houses filled the inside courtyard in narrow rows, with an ancestral hall—the village focal point— as the centerpiece.

Kat Hing Wai, Yuen Long Get there: From Exit B of Kam Sheung Road MTR, cross the footbridge onto Kam Po Road then turn onto Kam Sheung Road.

It’s another 20-minute walk to the village.

23

COVER STORY

For: Get the whole family together for these kid-friendly diversions.

Monkey Around

Get on your Bike

Also known as “Monkey Hill” for its large population of mischievous macaques, Kam Shan Country Park offers walking trails for all abilities and four scenic reservoirs. If you’ve got the whole family in tow, opt for the Kam Shan Family Walk, or the Kam Shan Tree Walk which is alive with shrubbery. Bring some meat and fire up the coals at one of Kowloon Reservoir’s barbecue pits—just beware that you may have some uninvited guests!

There’s no way the kids won’t love this one: For a seriously fast and furious, downright filthy day out, the MX Club ticks all the boxes. It’s the only track in Hong Kong that caters to the motocross crowd, and what’s more, it offers two different levels of courses for the beginner and the advanced rider. If you want to do a proper beginner’s course, you can book a series of four lessons, each lasting two hours, for $1,800. The club provides all equipment.

Quad bikes, segways and mountain bikes are also available for hire. MX Club also offers remote-controlled car trails, a food menu and private functions such as children’s parties.

Kam Shan Road, Sha Tin Get there: From Lai Chi Kok MTR take bus 72 or 81 to Kowloon Reservoir on Tai Po Road.

Live and Learn Set in the foothills of Tai Mo Shan (Hong Kong’s highest mountain) is Kadoorie Farm and Botanic Garden, has much to entertain your family pack: It’s first and foremost an educational center, but it’s the range of rather exotic animals that provide the most appeal—think wild boar and red muntjac, flamingos, owls, monkeys and reptiles which have been rescued and rehabilitated from the wild. The park winds its way to the summit of Kwun Yam Shan with a variety of educational displays and features en route. If you’re planning a visit, look at the schedule of talks and workshops first.

Lam Kam Rd., Tai Po, 2483-7200 Get there: Bus 64K from Tai Po Market MTR.

24

Fan Kam Road, Tong Kung Leng Village, Sheung Shui, 2668-0948, www.mxclub.com.hk Get there: Take the 57K minibus from Sheung Shui Station to Tong Kung Leng, its final stop; for groups of 20 or more, call Mr. Wong on 9888-1828 to arrange a shuttle bus pick-up service from various locations, including Central (starting at $1,200) or Tsim Sha Tsui (starting at $1,100).

HAPPENING ’HOODS

Li

DAYS OUT WITH A DIFFERENCE

n Fa Ku ng

Tai Hang

St

Tin Hau MTR (15 mins walk)

es .W t

Tucked away in an area right between Tin Hau and Causeway Bay, the sleepy corner of Tai Hang is one of the city’s trendiest spots for dining. It also shares a slice of unique Hong Kong tradition.

Lin Fa Kung Garden

1

1. Lin Fa Kung Temple (Lotus Palace Temple)

ho

Sc

ol

Ki

.

St

ng

St

ow Br

.

un

Sh

a

St

.

3

W

n St .

If you look beyond the different shops and restaurants that flourish on the streets of Tai Hang, you’ll find a secluded temple nestling in the corners of the old neighborhood. Built in 1846, Lin Fa Kung is one of the oldest working temples in Hong 5 d. nR Kong. It serves as Tung Lo Wa a place of worship for the Guanyin bodhisattva—its statue is housed in a lotus-shaped house symbolizing that she will bring locals peace and prosperity. The unique architecture of the temple has earned it recognition as a Grade 1 historic building.

4

S

o ec

nd

La

2

ne

Su

h nC

Lin Fa Kung St. West Tai Ha ng Rd .

2. La Famille Fancy some sweet treats and a cup of tea after a long day on your feet?

La Famille is a dainty French style café specialized in chiffon cakes with various decadent and aromatic flavors such as yuzu, green tea and rose. The quaint shop can barely fit more than handful of people, but the charming Frenchinfluenced décor more than makes up for it, and makes the place an absolute pleasure to spend the afternoon.

G/F, 37 Sun Chun St.

3. Man Sing Opened in the 1970s, Man Sing was one of the first standalone restaurants built in Tai Hang. It’s the perfect place to try out some scrumptious home-style Cantonese cuisines without breaking the bank, and the sense of nostalgia it

26

gives is one-of-a-kind. Famous for its steamed pork patty, Man Sing makes its own with a twist by shaping ground meat into a pyramid, then topping it with a salty egg yolk and soy sauce. Be sure to come early to avoid long lines!

16 Wun Sha St.

4. Feel So Good Shopping for gifts or looking to redecorate? This trendy homeware store should definitely be on your radar.

The extremely cool looking shop is located on the ground floor of a historic walk-up. Feel So Good sells a selection of handcrafted goods and antiques, from hipster lamps to desk décor. In case you have a hard time finding the door to the shop, it’s right next to Unar Coffee Company—which also serves

some of the best coffee in the area.

Feel So Good is currently on hiatus and will reopen in November, but it’s still a great place to window shop.

4 Second Lane

5. Papabubble Got a sweet tooth? Papabubble is a popular candy store known for its personalized candy services. You can customize your own candy from rock candies to lollipops, pick your own colors and the message you want to print. They’re fantastic as party favors or personalized gifts, for kids and adults alike.

34 Tung Lo Wan Rd.

un

St

.

WOMEN IN FOCUS

THE LIST’S LEADING LADIES

BETTY GRISONI “[In the future] people will not have any sexual preference because gender will not exist.”

I told my parents I was bisexual

when I was 19 and they said, “Oh yeah, whatever.”

But I really came out to them when

Betty Grisoni (left) moved to Hong Kong from Singapore 14 years ago with her wife, Abby Lee (right).

During their 16 year marriage they have been at the forefront of LGBT rights in Hong Kong. They were the co-directors of Pink Dot 2015 and also founded Les Peches, which hosts events for queer women, and Double Happiness, which promotes marriage equality. Betty talks to Adrienne Chum about her eye-opening experiences as a young queer woman, and how she sees the future of gender and sexuality.

I moved to London, basically. So that was my coming out to myself.

I met Abby—I felt she was the one, so I introduced her to them. She asked them for my hand and that didn’t go well at all.

I eventually went to the States to

They didn’t accept her as a woman,

work as a nanny: The family I worked with lived on the corner of Castro and 21st in San Francisco.

So for a young, queer lady at 19, it was

and they didn’t accept her as a Chinese woman, so there were two layers. But that was many years ago and I guess I cannot really blame them.

not only perfect, it was an eye-opener.

And as they say, it gets better, and it

It was around 1990, so one could argue

did. Now I think my family loves Abby more than they love me!

it was pretty much the end of the AIDS epidemic.

When you walked through Castro in

I think in one or two generations,

bumpkin, really.

that time, you would see what the AIDS epidemic was doing to people, and there was a lot of advocacy going on against AIDS, like one organization called Act Up.

people will not have any sexual preference because gender will not exist. Gender stereotyping is disappearing. Even in fashion you can see it. Young people now, a lot of them don’t really care.

I was born on the small island of

That showed [me] it was good to do

Corsica, which is between France and Italy and is very mountainous. I think it’s the most beautiful island in the world—but I’m biased.

We just held Pink Dot, and the

things for the community.

slogan is “Love is Love”: If you’re attracted physically to someone, or you love someone, it isn’t by gender. And the generation that comes from the internet is just very fluid: They meet people online and gender is irrelevant.

I’m actually very much a country

Growing up in a small village of

only 300 inhabitants, I just wanted to get out.

I knew I had feelings for women, but

I didn’t really start dating women until

I studied university in Melbourne,

and loved it. It was safe, it was queer enough, it was nice, so I stayed there for seven years.

Then I worked for a company which

had a head office in Singapore, so I moved to Singapore.

In Singapore, I met my partner, Abby.

Sexuality is just weird.

Join Betty in promoting LGBT marriage equality at www.facebook.com/ doublehappinesslgbt

27

Sponsored Feature

A series of stories, recommendations and tips on Hong Kong from people in the know. Explore our city based on the travel experiences that interest you and get itineraries for off-the-beaten-path neighborhoods.

Spotlight on: Tai Po In the northeasterly New Territories, the historic market town of Tai Po is one of Hong Kong’s largest districts, with a population divided between the town and 80-plus villages. While its roots lie with these walled villages, Tai Po has grown into a modern suburb that revolves around its people and its land, and offers great food and culture.

Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral Hall

Beyond the Walls In its earliest days, Hong Kong was a series of small communities subsisting on the land and living inside walled villages, and if you travel up into the New Territories you’ll discover traditional life still exists behind these walls. In fact, you don’t need to move too far away from the heart of downtown Hong Kong to discover a region that will make you feel you’ve ventured back in time to this era, where you’ll still find ancient traditions and a more simple way of life.

Village Life The Tang clan first settled in Kam Tin in the early 14th century, and Lo Wai was the first of the five wai—or walled villages—they built. It’s enclosed on all four sides by brick walls, with a gateway and entrance tower, which protect the central ancestral hall and adjacent dwellings. Find it on the Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail.

Community Spirit An ancestral hall is the focal point for any wai villager: it’s a study hall for children, as well as a place for worshipping ancestors, for social gatherings, and for discussing important village issues. Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral Hall in Sheung Shui Wai is an elaborate example that was built in 1751 by the prosperous Liu clan, who initially settled from Fujian in the Ming Dynasty.

Organic Growth Entrepreneurial villagers have branched out to sell their produce—creating a trend across Hong Kong for locally grown, locally sourced ingredients. Po Sang Yuen Bee Farm in Fanling does a great job of protecting the environment in its enterprise, while the trendy IPC Foodlab is a restaurant that advocates eating local farm produce and practices what it preaches.

For more insider info on Hong Kong, head to www.DiscoverHongKong.com/InsidersGuide

Tai Mei Tuk Dam

Basin bonanza Many of the oldest communities are dotted around the mountainous walled village region of Lam Tsuen, a collection of 26 indigenous and Hakka hamlets including ancient ancestral halls and temples, many of which date back to the 13th century.

Market magic A village atmosphere still pervades even in the more modern parts of the town, such as in the Fu Shin Street Traditional Bazaar, which is one of the oldest remaining wet markets. The nearby Tai Po Hui Market & Food Complex Centre is

great for dining and gifts.

Natural beauty As well as cultural relics, Tai Po boasts an abundance of natural resources and precious reserves. In the valley behind the 300-year-old Hakka village of Fung Yuen sprawls the Fung Yuen Butterfly Reserve.

If you’re after outdoor activities and incredible scenery, Tai Mei Tuk Dam is a hidden gem: the 2km long stretch boasts picture-perfect views of Plover Cover Reservoir.

Head online to www.DiscoverHongKong.com/ InsidersGuide to create your personalized itinerary for Tai Po.

Get insights and tips on your tablet from Hong Kong Insider’s Guide

KNOW & TEL 30-33

Great Hikes 34-37

Bars & Bites 38-41

Heritage Sites 42-45

Outdoor Activities 46-49

Hidden Gems

Contact us: On the following pages you’ll find a huge array of practical information. We cover 120 topics a year. Tell us what you need to know!

Email: thelist@hkmagmedia.com

29

KNOW & TEL

GREAT HIKES Off the beaten path

Castle Peak Basin Standing tall above Tuen Mun is Castle Peak (also known as Tsing Shan)—the highest mountain on this northwesterly side of the New Territories and one of Hong Kong’s three sharpest peaks.

Castle Peak Basin, which surrounds the mountain, offers a strenuous trail through shrubbery that was once used as a firing range for the British Forces.

Note that this is a restricted area still in use for firing practice so be sure to check out the government website before you head off (www.isd.gov.hk).

The six-kilometer hike may be tough but you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views over Castle Bay. Get there: Take a taxi from Tuen Mun MTR to the start of the hike on Tsing Wun Road

Cloudy Hill Despite its name, Cloudy Hill in Tai Po offers one of the best views you can find while hiking in Hong Kong. Situated on section 8 of the Wilson Trail, the

30

route passes abandoned villages and disused rice fields (in spring you’ll also find pickable strawberry fields) before you begin the steep— and mostly stepless— ascent to the hilltop at 440 meters. This valley is largely unpolluted and so you can enjoy beautiful panoramas over Tai Mo Shan and down to Tolo Harbour.

Get there: Take minibus 23K from Tai Po Market MTR. Start from Fan Sin Temple on Wun Yiu Road

Kap Lung Ancient and Forest Trails The Kap Lung Ancient Trail and the Kap Lung Forest Trail are actually two paths

Castle Peak

which run in a rough loop on the western face of Tai Mo Shan, making them an ideal circular hike.

The Ancient Trail is quiet, secluded and you get a real sense of history while treading those well-worn granite steps: It’s another well-trodden trading path and it’s still paved with stones which farmers used to make the road more navigable (but still be careful in the rain). At one point on the route you have two stone paths running side by side: one recently built by the government,

KNOW & TEL off at Ng Tung Chai Village. Alternatively, a taxi will cost around $40. Walk up the slope to enter the village and you’ll find a sign leading to the route

Pat Sin Leng Country Park The eight majestic stately spears of Pat Sin Leng Country Park, often referred to as Chinese mythology’s Eight Fairies, dominate the skyline of the northeasterly New Territories. At their base sit emerald lakes—and most of the walking trails here will take you past the Lau Shui Heung Reservoir.

Sheltered in a valley and surrounded by woodland, Lau Shui Heung—which translates from the Chinese “sound of running water”—is known locally as Little Guilin thanks to its beauty.

If you’re up for more of a challenge, stages 9 and 10 of the Wilson Trail run through the park: The numerous ascents and descents make this one of the more difficult hiking routes in Hong Kong. Shun Yeung Fung is the highest peak at 591m.

Tai Long Wan

and the other by villagers many, many years ago. The stream running alongside much of the trail also makes it a prime spot for butterfly watching. This trail is straightforward—shaded and fairly flat, making it good for those new to hiking.

Get here: Take KMB bus 51 from Tsuen Wan to the Country Park stop on Route Twisk

Ng Tung Chai Waterfall Nothing beats a picnic by a waterfall.

Often overlooked because of its inaccessibility, this 4.5km route through the Tai Mo Shan Country Park is one of the most tranquil and scenic in the city.

Soon after you get started, you’ll pass the renovated Taoist temple Man Tak Yuen. Continue uphill to catch the three parts of the Ng Tung Chai Waterfall. The main section is the city’s highest falls, at 100 meters. But take care: Some of the slopes are slippery and require climbing using both hands.

Get there: Take green minibus 64K or 65K from Tai Po Market MTR Station and get

Lau Shui Heung Country Trail, Pat Sin Leng Country Park, Fanling, 2669-0737.

Get there: Take minibus 52B from Fanling MTR Station Lau Shui Heung Reservoir

Plover Cove Country Park This is a circular hike which takes you to the abandoned Hakka village of Lai Chi Wo—it was once the largest walled village in the area, but these days it’s mostly empty. Nonetheless it’s pretty well maintained, with ancestral halls and a large public square. It’s also home to a “feng shui wood,” said to bring good fortune to the adjoining village.

There’s only one serious climb for the entirety of this hike, so it’s a nice one for beginners or to walk off a good Sunday lunch. The route beats a path to the coast by Sam A Wan, which is a beautiful bay; from the ridge, you’ll be treated to views of Starling Inlet.

Get there: Take Minibus 20C (special service) from Tai Po Market to Tin Sam Village, Wu Kau Tang

Tai Long Wan Among the many trails Sai Kung’s abundant landscape offers, hiking to Tai Long Wan should be on the top of

your list for the gorgeous beach reward that is Ham Tin Wan. Take the two-hour hike from Sai Wan Pavilion or hire a boat from Sai Kung pier to take you directly there if you’ve got kids—or picnic gear—in tow. If you want to spend the night you can rent tents at Ham Tin Wan, or for a more hardcore hike carry on to Long Ke Wan, which isn’t as fully supplied but boasts clear water and fine sand.

Get there: Take minibus 29R from Sai Kung town center to Sai Wan Pavilion

Tai Mo Shan Practice Hiking Trail If you’re not totally confident about stepping out on your own, take this 1km practice hike to ease yourself into your newfound hobby. This hour-long trail has barbecue sites and plenty of amenities, so it doesn’t have to be an endurance test and can be enjoyed with the whole family. Take your time and soak up the serenity. Today is practice… tomorrow Tai Mo Shan?

Get there: Rotary Club Park. Take bus 51 from Tsuen Wan and get off at the Tsuen Kam Country Park Management Centre

Yuen Tsuen Ancient Trail This is called an ancient trail for a reason: In the past the route was a vital artery connecting the 18 villages of Shap Pat Heung in Yuen Long, and the market town of Tsuen Wan. Every day villagers would haul their goods over the mountain to Tsuen Wan to trade. That came to an end with the completion of Castle Peak Road in the 1930s, but the trail remains and it’s a lesser-known jewel. The route runs over the length of Tai Lam Country Park. It’s a steep and tiring climb initially to the top of Shek Lung Kung, which sits 400m above sea level—but you’ll be glad you did it for the views of Tsing Yi Harbor. About halfway in, the trail meets Stage 10 of the MacLehose Trail at Tin Fu Tsai, home to a campsite, bubbling stream and wooden bridge.

Get there: Take KMB bus 39M from Tsuen Wan MTR to Tsuen Wan Adventist Hospital, Tsuen Wan

Pat Sin Leng

31

KNOW & TEL

Take Four: Best Sunset Spots

32

Ha Pak Nai

Lake Egret Nature Park

Whether you’re a tripod-packing pro or an iPhone amateur, it would be hard to mess up a sunset shot at Ha Pak Nai. It’s a remote destination: right on the shores of Deep Bay, in the northwesterly district of Yuen Long—you can even spot Shenzhen across the water. The sun sinks below the horizon here, casting its multi-hued glow across mangroves and sandy flats. Picture perfect.

This Tai Po reserve is a popular spot for the ubiquitous Chinese wedding snaps as well as wedding proposals.

You’ve got 23 acres of woodland here but at its heart lies Lake Egret, which is where you want to be at dusk. There’s a small boating hut attached to the end of a pier to focus the eye. Afterwards, head to the Little Egret Restaurant for a romantic Mediterranean-style meal.

Get there: Minibus 33 from Tai Fung Street in Yuen Long

Get there: Bus 72, 72A or 74A from Tai Po Market MTR to Savanna Garden on Tai Po Road

KNOW & TEL

Shing Mun River

Sharp Island

Shing Mun River

Just off the coast of Sai Kung lies Sharp Island, a long thin isle in Kiu Tsui Country Park. Here you have the perfect sunset backdrop: sandy beaches running down into turquoise waters, reflective rock pools, a rocky spit and a remote lighthouse. Just make sure you don’t miss the last boat home!

The Shing Mun River flows through the New Territories, originating atop Tai Mo Shan and finally flowing into the waterfront at Tai Po. Anywhere along the banks at sundown can score you a good photograph— although we recommend one of the footbridges by Sha Tin Central Park, so you can catch the town’s lights reflected in the water.

Get there: Take a sampan from Sai Kung pier to Hap Mun Bay (about $40 one-way)

Hot Picks at

Get there: From Sha Tin MTR, walk through Sha Tin Central Park to the waterfront

Mamas & Papas Mamaroo 3.0

Maclaren Triumph

(Available Multi or Designer)

$3,499 Hair Dressing Case with Braun Hair Dryer

Motorola Digital Video Monitor

$275

$1,899

Folding Football Table

$3,499

from

$590

from

Ulmuka Duo Steriliser & Drier

$1,839

ANS Australian Infant Formula

$1,080

$250

Mamas & Papas Evolve Changer

Mamas & Papas Stargaze Playmat

$1,850

(11 Varieties)

$1,299

Pedder Building Store 5/F Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central T: 2522 7112 Horizon Plaza Store 21/F Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau T: 2552 5000 Stanley Plaza Store 2/F Stanley Plaza, 23 Carmel Road, Stanley T: 2555 6318 Sai Kung Store G/F 7 Wan King Path, Sai Kung, New Territories T: 2976 0223

www.bumpstobabes.com

www.facebook.com/bumpstobabeshk 33

KNOW & TEL

BARS & BITES Modern and traditional fare

Anthony’s Ranch It’s hard to miss Anthony’s Ranch, thanks to the huge plastic ox head standing guard over the door. The restaurant has an American wild weststyle interior and serves great food to match—for starters go for the crispy buffalo chicken wings with chili sauce.

As you’d expect, the burgers are equally good, as are the smoked ribs. Slathered in barbeque sauce, the juicy, tender ribs are well-seasoned and taste about as close to authentic Texas smokehouse as you’re going to get in Hong Kong.

Do the American thing and pair it all with a tall, frosty milkshake.

28 Yi Chun St., Sai Kung, 2791-6113

34

Casa

Casa The four founders of modern tapas bar Casa all hail from different countries, each bringing some far-flung flavor to the table. You can see the diversity in the varied menu, with creative tapas covering the likes of Spanish tortillas,

Japanese okonomiyaki and buffalocoated cauliflower with blue cheese sauce. And when the sun goes down Casa transforms into a vibrant bar with wines, champagnes and craft beers aplenty.

Shop 1, Sui Yat Building, 1 Sai Kung Hoi Pong Square, Sai Kung, 5594-0007

KNOW & TEL around for some 50 years. Signature dishes include roast pigeon—expect crispy skin and juicy meat—shrimp toast, and salt and pepper prawns.

45-47 Tsuen Nam Rd., Tai Wai, 2692-1175

Hebe One O One For fantastic views and low-key village vibes, head to Hebe One O One, about a 10-minute drive from Sai Kung town center. The waterfront building has several open-air floors, including a friendly bar downstairs and a more formal dining room on the rooftop where you can dig into seared scallop appetizers, bacon-wrapped chicken and a broad selection of drinks, including Japanese craft beer and Pimm’s.

And if that’s not enough for you then the seaside breeze and seagulls flying over the yachts in the harbor should seal the deal.

112 Pak Sha Wan, Sai Kung, 2335-5515

Ho To Tai Noodle Shop

Hebe One O One

Farmer Restaurant A visit to the New Territories would be wasted without a meal fresh from the land—and that’s what you can find at the aptly named Farmer Restaurant. This Tuen Mun venue serves up authentic Cantonese cuisine with ingredients farmed from the neighboring Fu Tei Village. Signatures such as rustic steamed chicken, Chinese-style “bah kut teh” beef broth, and lotus leaf steamed tofu come highly recommended.

Translating to “Best Until the End,” Ho To Tai Noodle Shop is a Yuen Long noodle stalwart. It’s been open since 1949—and the old-timey décor hasn’t changed one bit. Treat yourself to a bowl of signature wonton noodles, or buy a box of the prized strands so you can enjoy them at home.

67 Fau Tsoi St., Yuen Long, 2476-2495

Kwan Kee Beef Balls & Pork Knuckles Three guesses for what this joint serves! This Fanling establishment is one of the district’s oldest and most popular eateries—so you’re guaranteed a side of heritage with your dinner.

There are no fripperies here: You’ll find a simple menu of Guangdong delights such as pork knuckle, beef balls and fried spring rolls served alongside vintage Hong Kong décor. Be sure to get here early as these specialties are so famous that the restaurant often sells out before dinnertime.

5 Luen Cheong St., Luen Wo Hui, Fanling, 2675-6382

Lau Fau Shan Right up in the northerly New Territories, across the waters from Shenzhen, lies Lau Fau Shan, a village where oyster farming has been the principal industry for hundreds of years. Sadly it is no longer what it once was, but you’ll still find the main street populated by market stalls offering a large range of live seafood and shellfish—simply pluck your prey from its tank and take it to one of the nearby restaurants, who will cook it to order.

Shan Tung St. or Main St., Lau Fau Shan

Mandy’s Caribbean Bar and Restaurant You’ve possibly heard of Mandy’s Private Kitchen in Sai Kung, but did you know that Mandy has finally branched out and opened a similar Caribbeanthemed restaurant? It’s a small space in a backstreet near the waterfront that serves unpretentious home-cooked favourites from the chef’s time in Trinidad and Tobago. Think delicious and authentic jerk chicken, Jamaican patties, tasty curries and goat stews alongside feisty Caribbean rums.

24 See Cheung St., Sai Kung, 2791-2088, www.caribbeanhk.com

Block C, Mei Ling Court, Castle Peak Rd. (Lam Tei), Tuen Mun, 2461-2381/2461-4483

Fung Lum Tai Wai’s Chik Tak Lane and surrounding streets are home to low-key restaurants, cafés and bars, but a Tai Wai institution is Fung Lum, an oldschool Cantonese eatery that has been

Hebe One O One

35

KNOW & TEL One-ThirtyOne If you’re looking for more of a fine dining experience in the NT, then One-ThirtyOne is just the ticket. Romance abounds in this village house, as picturesque lawns lead down to the equally pretty Three Fathoms Cove. Enjoy a set menu of modern French cuisine outdoors beneath a pergola, or in the charming dining room that can seat up to 20. The chef makes use of organic produce from the neighboring farm and the selection changes daily, so the team suggests you call ahead to discuss your personal menu. Booking essential.

131 Tseung Tau Village, Shap Sze Heung, Sai Kung, 2791-2684, www.one-thirtyone.com

Ping Shan Traditional Poon Choi If you’re visiting a walled village, then you must surely eat like a (well-fed) villager with a bowl of poon choi. Not heard of this delight? It’s a timehonored village dish—actually a very big bowl—that’s piled high with layers of seafood, poultry and vegetables.

Ping Shan Traditional Poon Choi in Yuen Long is one of the city’s most traditional restaurants, as the name implies, and is actually still run by members of the Tang clan. This is an elaborate concoction that takes days of preparation, so be sure to book at least three days in advance and work up an appetite for weeks beforehand.

Wun Chuen Vegetarian Centre

hat’s then stuffed with dry shrimp and rice, and complete with delicate crispy skin. Other dishes to order include “five-finger-chicken” and pig liver dumplings. Beware—portions are big and meant for sharing. Book ahead to order the pig in advance.

1 Lam Tei Main St., Tuen Mun, 2462-7038, redseasons.com.hk (Chinese only)

offers locally farmed food on a meatfree menu. You’ll find healthy and delicious dishes that cleverly imitate meat: king trumpet mushrooms mocked up as abalone, for example. After lunch, take a peek around the 70-year-old temple and wander around its beautiful gardens that come complete with lotus ponds and picturesque bridges.

The Better ‘Ole

Lot 1561, Ping Che Rd., Fanling, 2674-2194; 2674-3933

36 Tong Fong Tsuen, Yuen Long, 2617-8000

If you find yourself on a day trip in Sheung Shui, then while away a few hours in The Better ‘Ole, a watering hole that’s been a New Territories institution since the 1970s. At one time there were at least five outlets in the northerly market towns, but this is now the only surviving branch. Caught in a sort of time warp, it’s one of the dwindling number of colonial-era, family-run businesses that used to dot Hong Kong, and serves up a legendary homemade borscht and pig knuckle.

Red Season Aroma Restaurant

35-36 Fu Hing St., Sheung Shui, 2939-2286

Hongkongers make a beeline for this humble looking Tuen Mun eatery— especially around Chinese New Year.

The reason? Succulent roasted piglet, less than 20 days old when it’s cooked to produce the tenderest meat,

36

Wun Chuen Vegetarian Centre Make a day of it in Fanling at the Taoist Wun Chuen Sin Koon Temple with a lunch stop at its Wun Chuen Vegetarian Centre, a restaurant that

Yin Yang If you like your private kitchens extra private, check out the new incarnation of Yin Yang. Formerly based in Wan Chai, it’s now tucked away on a secluded beach by Ting Kau village out in the western New Territories.

Ultra passionate about engaging with local culture and heritage, Chef Margaret Xu takes inspiration from Cantonese fishermen in this latest venture. She either uses the freshest catch from the local market or actually goes fishing herself. For an added farm-to-table touch, all the sauces are made from ingredients grown in the restaurant’s garden.

House 117, Ting Kau Village, Tsuen Wan, 2866-0868

KNOW & TEL

Loving Local The trend for organic farming and sustainable living is sweeping across Hong Kong. Zoey Wong from Mapopo Community Farm tells Charley Mulliner about the importance of buying locally.

The List: How did the Mapopo Community Farm come about?

Zoey Wong: The government wanted to demolish large areas of farmland in the northeast and turn it into a new town. We set up a farm in Ma Shi Po Village, within the development area, to stop the plans, but also to promote the importance of agriculture, sustainable living and organic farming.

The List: What work does the farm do?

ZW: The villagers have been farming here for decades. They cooperate with us and now farm organically. They sell the crops in

slow process but we hope that some greater changes will happen.

Zoe y Wong

the farmers’ markets themselves and we help with the promotion and administrative work.

The List: What problems are local farmers facing?

ZW: Local farmers do not own the land, they only rent. So when the land owners sell, they have to leave.

We help the farmers sell produce —and by doing this we want to raise awareness about the importance of local farming.

The List: Is it hard to change people’s attitudes towards buying locally?

ZW: Customers who buy from us connect with our farmers and they care about the community. It’s a very

The List: Isn’t there a lot of organic produce in supermarkets already?

ZW: Many people buy imported organic food at CitySuper, for example, but it’s not actually environmentally friendly. The food miles of this imported food is very high. I hope more people can begin to support local agriculture. Our vegetables are not expensive at all, and all the money goes into the farmers’ pockets.

Support Mapopo Community Farm, which hosts weekly farmers’ markets in Ma Shi Po Village, Fanling, Wed 2-6pm; Sunday 11-6pm. Produce is also sold at: Lively Life, Shop 02, 1/F, Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre, 30 Pak Tin St., Shek Kip Mei

37

KNOW & TEL

HERITAGE SITES Step back in time

the Ming dynasty (1368-1644) to honor China’s General Che, or “Che Kung,” who was believed to be able to cure epidemics. The big, red oblong structure, surrounded by a walled courtyard, is visually impressive, and when crowds gather on Chinese New Year, the sight of thousands of worshippers congregating to spin the “wheel of fortune” forms an iconic Hong Kong tableau.

Photo: Koon Ming

Che Kung Miu Rd., Tai Wai, 2697-2660, www.ctc.org.hk Get there: Che Kung Temple MTR

Hong Kong Heritage Museum Tsing Shan Monastery

Che Kung Temple Culture vultures should do themselves a favor and pay a visit to Che Kung

38

Temple in Tai Wai—it’s a real insight into Chinese folk tradition, especially around the holidays. It was built at the end of

Perched right on Sha Tin’s Shing Mun River, a visit to the Hong Kong Heritage Museum is an afternoon well spent.

Here you’ll find 12 exhibition halls showcasing Hong Kong culture— think displays of art, music, dance,

KNOW & TEL

Old House

handwritten by the man himself. It’s not necessarily worth the pilgrimage for the site alone, but if you fancy a day out in the park, then it’s a good cultural addition to your journey.

Chung Shan Park, Lung Mun Rd., Tuen Mun Get there: Minibus 44 from Tuen Mun Town Centre Plaza

Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral Hall

Yim Tin Tsai

history, literature and theater. The New Territories Heritage Hall holds over 300 artefacts that chart more than 6,000 years of social change in the region.

You’ll also find a noteworthy exhibition on Cantonese opera.

1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk

Hung Lau There are many monuments devoted to Chinese revolutionary Dr. Sun Yatsen dotted around Hong Kong—the founder of modern China kept the city as his home for a time. However perhaps one of the most obscure, and therefore fascinating, is Hung Lau, an early 20th century building in Tuen Mun’s Chung Shan Park. Tall tales have the controversial character plotting his uprising here—and there’s a plaque here that is even thought to have been

The ancestral hall is the revered centrepiece of any walled village and Liu Man Shek Tong Ancestral Hall in Sheung Shui Wai is one of the best showcases of this architecture in Hong Kong. Built in 1751 by the wealthy Liu clan from Fujian, the hall was at once a place for worshipping ancestors, a venue for social gatherings and a study hall for youngsters—in essence, a focal point for the village. It is a remaining example of the typical three-hall two-courtyard style and is kitted out in opulent plaster mouldings, wood carvings and murals.

Mun Hau Tsuen, Sheung Shui Get there: Shueng Shui MTR

Lo Wai As walled villages—or wai—go, Lo Wai in Kam Tin is one of the most significant for maintaining a living, breathing, community of villagers. Lo Wai was one of five wai built by the Tang clan in the early 14th century. In true village style, it’s bordered on all four sides by thick brick walls and features a gateway and entrance hall which protect its

ancient dwellings and central ancestral hall. Much of this original architecture is still standing—today you can see the protected entranceway and walls, although the rest is closed to the public to protect the villagers’ privacy.

Lung Yeuk Tau, Fanling Get there: Minibus 54K from Fanling MTR to Lung Yeuk Tau, or minibus 56K to Luk Keng

Old House Although looking somewhat tired, the Old House is the only remnant of Wong Uk Village, a settlement founded around 200 years ago by the Wongs from Guangdong. Wong Uk became a trading post on the route between Guangdong and China and thrived right through until the late 19th century until land reclamation began for the development of Sha Tin new town. The Old House is a fine two-story green brick building that displays traditional Chinese décor, including lovely murals. It was declared a protected monument in 1989.

Wong Uk, Yuen Chau Kok, Sha Tin, www.amo.gov.hk/en/monuments_39.php Get there: Sha Tin Wai MTR

Ping Shan Heritage Trail Enthusiasts of traditional Chinese architecture and clan history will love the Ping Shan Heritage Trail in Yuen Long, which was mapped out in 1993 by the Antiquities and Monuments Office. At 1.6km long, it’s not an arduous walk, but it meanders through

39

KNOW & TEL the ancient walled village of Ping Shan taking in a pagoda, numerous shrines, several ancestral halls and a couple of temples—all of which were built by the Tang Clan, the first settlers from Guangdong to claim the land.

Tsui Sing Rd, Yuen Long, 2721-2326, www.amo.gov.hk/en/pingshan.php Get there: Tin Shui Wai MTR

Tsang Tai Uk There are walled villages dotted around the New Territories (see our feature on p.20) and Tsang Tai Uk in Sha Tin is one of the largest structures still in existence. The Hakka Tsang clan moved south to Sha Tin from the mainland and built a wall around their settlement in the 19th century to protect themselves from rivals. The structure spans more than 6,000 square feet and is a great example of a typical walled village—complete with a central courtyard and ancestral hall.

Tsang Tai Uk, Sha Tau Kok, Sha Tin Get there: Che Kung Temple MTR

Tsing Shan Monastery Qingshan Chanyuan, or Tsing Shan Monastery, is located at the foothills of Castle Peak in Tuen Mun and was the birthplace of Buddhism in the city—it’s one of Hong Kong’s oldest temples with records that hark back to 1464. It’s said that Buddhist master Pei Tu lived as a hermit in the mountain’s caves, which later became a popular

Yim Tin Tsai

pilgrimage site for Buddhists far and wide. Today’s monastery was built next to this site in the early 1900s. A modern day pilgrimage will include a tour of the ceremonial arch, gatehouse, prayer halls, dormitories and even a spot known as “Devotee’s Forest.”

Tsing Shan Monastery Path, Tuen Mun, 2441-6666, www.tsingshanmonastery.org.hk Get there: Tuen Mun MTR

Yim Tin Tsai Popularly referred to as “ghost island,” Yim Tin Tsai—which means “Little Salt Field”—is an abandoned island less than one kilometer square that’s

anchored off the coast of Sai Kung.

The isle was claimed by the Hakka Chan family around 300 years ago and farmed for its salt. However as this natural industry declined, the population upped and left behind their properties: Today you’ll find spooky empty farmhouses and a general moody atmosphere that pervades the rural landscape. Make a beeline for St Joseph’s Chapel while you’re here—although it no longer has an active community, its members still congregate once a year on May 1 for the feast of St Joseph. www.catholicheritage.org.hk Get there: The Yim Tin Tsai Ferry from Sai Kung Pier runs hourly on weekends and public holidays; for weekday ferries, book on 2791-6226

Photo: Koon Ming

Tsing Shan Monastery

40

KNOW & TEL

Just Kidding Around The New Territories is brimming with activities to keep the little ones entertained.

Hello Kitty Go Green Organic Farm If your family day out needs a touch of cuteness, head to the Hello Kitty Go Green Organic Farm. The grounds are completely themed around the cartoon cat—and even feature a BBQ area and Hello Kitty gift shop— but a large emphasis is placed on organic low-carbon farming. The 50,000-square-foot farm provides farming workshops, educational programs and ample homegrown produce to take home.

Sze Pai Shek Village, Kam Tin, Yuen Long, 5579-2178, www.gogreenlife.com.hk

Hong Kong Railway Museum

Tai Tong Ecopark

A branch of the Heritage Museum, the Hong Kong Railway Museum is a little open air venue that kids will love. The museum was converted from the old Tai Po Railway Station— The building dates back to 1913 and features a traditional Chinese pitched roof. You’ll also be able to explore six historical train coaches, a narrow gauge steam locomotive and a diesel electric engine No.51 (definitely one for train spotters!). Exhibits include the history of local railways and interactive displays on the latest innovations in transport.

There’s food ripe for the picking at the Tai Tong Ecopark, where about $120 buys you a full day of plucking strawberries, lychees and a variety of vegetables, depending on what’s in season. You can plop down for a picnic on site, or pay by weight to take the produce home. Coming up is organic strawberry season, from December to April. Extra activities that are great for kids include bullock cart rides, creative workshops, horse riding and an adventure play area. $100 gets you entry and four activity vouchers.

13 Shung Tak St., Tai Po Market, Tai Po, 2653-3455, www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk

11 Tai Tong Shan Rd., Yuen Long, 2470-2201, ttlv.hk

41

KNOW & TEL

OUTDOOR SPORTS Get out and about

boat trip with tour company Jubilee.

The Squid Tour boat uses bright lights to attract the little critters so you can pull them up. Catch enough and you can dine on your bounty—the boat cooks it all up for you afterwards as well as providing some Vietnamese delights.

From $199, 3555-5555, www.jubilee.hk

Kau Sai Chau

Jubilee

For golfing enthusiasts the reputation of Kau Sai Chau precedes it: Crafted from an island in Sai Kung, this is Hong Kong’s only public golf course so it accepts anyone willing to make the trip. And it’s well worth the voyage for the not one but three 18 hole courses, plus the 60-bay driving range. It doesn’t come cheap though—playing a round will set you back upwards of $700. Just don’t get distracted by the stupendous views of the South China Sea and drive your ball into the herds of wild barking deer!

Gather your most cuttlefish-loving friends for an evening squid fishing

Kau Sai Chau, Sai Kung, 2791-3388, www.kscgolf.org.hk

Kau Sai Chau

Battle Valley Activity Centre Built in 2007, the Battle Valley Activity Centre, or Wargame Corner, is a wargame simulation zone located in Yuen Long. You’ll be playing surrounded by the beautiful green vista of the Yuen Long, but there’s also a large indoor stadium for close-quarter-battle games—modeled after the training venue of the US special forces. A whole

42

day with accoutrements starts from $300/person, with a minimum charge of $6000 per group.

D9, DD111, Ha Che, Pat Heung, Yuen Long, 2777-2800, www.hkcqb.com Get there: A taxi from Kam Sheung Road MTR costs just over $30

KNOW & TEL Ha Pak Nai. Northeast, there’s an easy biking trail towards the salt marshes of Nam Sang Wai, which leads you to prime birdwatching territory all along the Kam Tin River. In the cooler months (Nov-Apr), take a biking tour with Mountain Biking Asia (from $500): a 35km day trip around Nam Sang Wai to an old walled village and back to Yuen Long proper for a dim sum lunch.

2454-9191, www.mountainbikingasia.com

Sha Tin Park Bike Kiosk

Photo: Marvin Lee/Flickr Get there: From Sai Kung Pier, board the golf course’s 15-minute private boat to Kau Sai Chau.

Kayak and Hike The Sai Kung Volcanic Rock Region is a rare treat in the northerly New Territories, boasting 140-million-year-old geological features you’ll struggle to find anywhere else in the world.

Activities company Kayak and Hike offers kayak training plus day excursions to explore Sai Kung’s incredible rocky coastline. The day includes a junk boat from Sai Kung pier to Sha Kiu Tau fishing village, a paddle around the Hong Kong Global Geopark, swimming and snorkeling, plus a short hike for panoramic coastal views.

Sai Kung Pier, Fuk Man Rd., Clear Water Bay, 9300-5197, www.kayak-and-hike.com

Mountain Biking Asia If you’re partial to long sunset walks, you’ll want to soak up the picturesque mangroves of northwestern Hong Kong at the coastal wetlands of

As the weather cools, bring the family together and head out for a day of cycling in Sha Tin. Don’t have bikes?

Don’t worry—you can hire bicycles, helmets, baby seats and even three wheelers from the Sha Tin Park Bike Kiosk for the day. From there it’s an easy pedal to the Tai Po Waterfront. The 16km route takes you along the Shing Mun River and past the scenic Tolo Harbour. If it’s too much of an effort to cycle back, you can simply drop your wheels off at the partner bike shop in Tai Po and make your way home.

Shop 3, Sha Tin Park, Sha Tin, 2603-0498; Shop 3, Tai Po Waterfront Park, Tai Po, 9817-4698, www.power3cycle.com.hk

Sun Ping Bicycle Looking for a Sai Kung day trip? Venture off the beaten path and into the woods for the hour-long seafront walk (or 20-minute cycle) from Yung Shue O to Shum Chung. With a huge piece of grassland to roll around on, little houses dotting the field and great food at the end of the journey, you’ll forget you are even in Hong Kong. Rent a bike for the ride from Sun Ping Bicycle—beware that no cycling is allowed on Sai Sha Road on Sundays and public holidays.

21A Tak Lung Back St., Sai Kung, 2792-3116 Get there: Take a taxi or bike from Sai Kung Town Center to Yung Shue O.

Tai Mei Tuk Water Sports Centre Tai Mei Tuk Dam is a spacious yet less vaunted area of Tai Po that has a surprising amount to offer the whole family looking for a fun day out. The dam itself spans two kilometers and

Windsurfing Centre

is a popular spot for cyclists and kitefliers alike. But Plover Reservoir is where the serious fun is had: Book a one day kayaking lesson from the Tai Mei Tuk Water Sports Centre and you’ll soon be equipped with the basic skills to take yourself further afield on Hong Kong’s open waters.

Main Dam, Tai Mei Tuk Rd., Plover Reservoir, Tai Po, 2665-3591, www.lcsd.gov.hk Get there: From Tai Po Market MTR take bus 75K or minibus 20C to Tai Mei Tuk bus terminus.

Windsurfing Centre The winds are picking up for autumn, so there’s no better time to take to the water on a windsurfer. Sai Kung’s Windsurfing Centre HK offers one-day courses ($450) that will have you skimming across the water like a pro in no time. Alternatively take a more laid-back approach to water travel with a kayak and paddle around the coves of Sai Kung bay—rental is $100 a day. A trendy stand up paddle board is $180 for three hours.

Sha Ha Beach, Tai Mong Tsai Rd., Sai Kung, 9733-1228

43

KNOW & TEL

All in a Twitch There are hundreds of species of birds to be spotted in Mai Po Nature Reserve.

Here’s your handy twitcher’s guide to give you that edge of credibility.

Common Kingfisher Photo: Max Willis/WWF HK

Name: Black-faced Spoonbill Markings: As its name may suggest, the endangered

Black-faced Spoonbill is a large white wading bird with a distinctive black face—and a black beak that resembles a spoon.

Spotted: In winter these east Asian birds migrate south from their breeding grounds in Korea and China to Hong Kong, and in particular the Mai Po Nature Reserve. Some 75cm tall, they’re often found wading in shallow waters feeding on fish and shrimp.

Name: Common Kingfisher Markings: With a distinctive plumage of blue and brown,

the pretty Common Kingfisher is a smaller variety among the four kingfisher species.

Spotted: You’ll often see it in the fish ponds and gei wai (shrimp ponds) at Mai Po, always perched on reeds and

wooden posts—or hovering above the water’s surface— keeping an eye out for fish, aquatic insects and frogs.

Name: Collared Crow Markings: Mostly black like a normal crow, what sets this

species apart is its white tufty collar.

Spotted: The Collared Crow is one of the most ubiquitous birds found around Deep Bay—although it’s fast vanishing elsewhere in the world—so make the most of your encounters on your visit. During the day you’re likely to spot them foraging in drained gei wai, or at night roosting in the inter-tidal mangroves.

Name: Little Grebe Markings: The Little Grebe is a bit

like an ugly duckling: dumpy, with Little Grebe

44

KNOW & TEL

a puffy brown plumage and a pointed sharp bill. During breeding season (February to September) they change color to become dark on back and cap, with rust-colored neck and cheeks.

Spotted: This is one of the species that actually breeds inside Mai Po, so you’re highly likely to see this bird swimming about—either on its own or in a small group.

Noteworthy: When the youngsters leave their nests for the first few times, they will hitch a ride by standing on their parent’s backs!

Mai Po Nature Reserve is managed by WWF. Three-hour tours available on weekends and public holidays, $120 (including binocular rental). Book online at www.wwf.org.hk.Tam Kon Chau Rd., Mai Po Village, Mai Po, 2471-3480, www.wwf.org.hk Get there: From Sheung Shui MTR take minibus 17 or KMB bus 76K to Mai Po Village. Walk along Tam Kon Chau Road to the Mai Po Visitor Centre, about 20 minutes.

Name: Black-winged Stilt Markings: Black-winged Stilts are easy to spot, not just

Sweetwalk_halloween_TheList_FINAL_OL.ai

1

Black-winged Stilt 30/9/15

Photo: Leung Wai Ki/ WWF HK

Photo: Angus Lau

by their black wings but by their characteristically thin pink legs and poker-straight, long thin beaks.

Spotted: There are around 10 pairs nesting in Mai Po this year—and they nest out in the open so can be easily observed. Find them in the reserve’s specially designed freshwater habitats, where they live on aquatic insects, crustaceans and molluscs.

Noteworthy: The species first started to breed in Hong Kong in 2003 and Mai Po is the only location where they have been sighted.

10:34 am

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

45

KNOW & TEL

HIDDEN GEMS Seek out these spots

Chan Kee Roast Goose From a single dai pai dong selling rice to truckers on Castle Peak Road in Sham Tseng Village, one of the most popular roast goose chains Chan Kee began serving up the toasted bird in 1978—roasting the geese in front of the restaurant so passersby could watch. After that the family business expanded to eight outlets, but only two now remain: one in Mong Kok, and its original branch in Sham Tseng.

Shop A, G/F, Chan Kee Commercial Centre, Sham Tseng, 2416-8893 Get there: Take minibus 302 from Tai Wo Hau MTR, alight at Bellagio and walk for three minutes

Chinese White Dolphin Lookout It’s not often that you get the chance to see the rare Chinese white dolphin—so up your chances of success at the aptly named Chinese White Dolphin Lookout in Tuen Mun. High above the coastal village of Lung Kwu Tan, this lookout point boasts unimpeded views out to sea, and apparently to the endangered creatures. Bring binoculars and high hopes!

46

White Dolphin Lookout Lung Kwu Tan Rd., Tuen Mun Get there: Take minibus K52 from Tuen Mun MTR to Lung Kwu Tan terminus and climb the stairs to the lookout tower

Choy Choy’s Kitchen Grace Choy set up her private kitchen in Yuen Long six years ago after noticing that hungry office workers in the area had nowhere to eat. Grace personally serves up dishes that are a modern spin on classic Cantonese delights—think pan-fried Hokkaido scallops topped with caviar, spicy tiger shrimps and black

pepper soy sauce chicken. The best bit?

All her ingredients are sourced from neighboring farms in the New Territories where possible, to ensure everything is as fresh and local as can be. Expect to pay around $400 for eight dishes.

198 Kat Hing Wai, Kam Shang Rd., Yuen Long, www.facebook.com/2choy Get there: 15 minute walk from Kam Sheung Road MTR

Green Earth Society Eco-friendly store Green Earth Society offers organic produce and alternative

KNOW & TEL make it too. Instructors will provide all the raw materials and show you how to craft your 100 percent natural skincare products from plant oil or wax.

The wonderful smelling handcrafted soap is an equally great addition to your bathroom or as a gift.

Lung Wah Hotel

Thousand Island Lake

lifestyle products in a bid to combat climate change and protect the environment. Opened in 2000 by local actor/musician Lowell Lo Koon-ting, this cute little backstreet shop just on the edge of Sai Kung Town is stocked full of oh-so-good-for-you skincare and beauty products as well as cleaning products for your home.

5 Tak Lung Back St., Sai Kung, 2792-0106, www.greenearthsociety.com

Lok On Pai Siu Lam Flea Market Everyone loves a good bargain—and there’s no better place to find one than at the hidden-away Lok On Pai Siu Lam Flea Market in Tuen Mun. Over 100 community stalls are set up on the weekend (11am-7pm) selling everything from fashion essentials to children’s toys, pet goldfish and pot plants.

It’s the great location to make a day of it, with a roof terrace boasting pleasant sea views, a barbecue area and a children’s playground. Shopping and entertainment—what’s not to love?

59 Tsing Fat St., Tuen Mun, 2440-1991 Get there: Take bus K51 from Tuen Mun and alight at The Aegean stop

It doesn’t quite have the glamor of roast goose or crispy duck, but pigeon has become something of a tasty regional specialty up in Sha Tin, thanks in part to the iconic Lung Wah Hotel. It was initially built as a family home by the Chungs from Guangdong, before they transformed it into a hotel in 1951. The restaurant prides itself on its roasted pigeon—just ask the dedicated pigeon chef! While you’re here, be sure to sample the chicken congee and tofu too. Celebrities including Bruce Lee have vouched for it in the past.

22 Ha Wo Che Village, Sha Tin, 2691-1594 Get there: Shek Mun MTR

Kam Tin Red Brick House You won’t regret a journey up to Kam Tin’s quirky flea market, which is housed in an old candle factory. Kam Tin Red Brick House is home to some 50 plus independent craft shops that sell an interesting selection of homemade products: think Chinese calligraphy, pot plants, leather bags, antique cameras, bohemian threads—the offerings are vast and varied. Angel Candle, which was previously on site, still has a presence selling candles of all shapes, sizes and scents. You’ll also find a range of little cafés and juice bars to punctuate your shopping trip!

390-400 Tsz Tong Tsuen, Kam Sheung Rd., Kam Tin, 2482-2188 Get there: Kam Sheung Road MTR

Shiny Forest We love naturally inspired products created by local start ups—and so Shiny Forest is a true gem in Sha Tin. This workshop-slash-boutique was born from a natural skincare concept: Not only does it sell handmade organic produce, but it will teach you how to

Unit 24-28, 5/F, Topsail Plaza, 11 On Sum St., Sha Tin, 2686-8115, www.shinyforest.com Get there: 10 minute walk from Shek Mun MTR

Thousand Island Lake Tai Lam Country Park in Tuen Mun (not to be confused with Tai Tam on Hong Kong Island) is well worth a day trip as the second-largest country park in Hong Kong. Its hidden gem? Tai Lam Chung Reservoir, which sits at its heart.

Take one of the many walking trails around the park and you’ll get a good viewpoint over the reservoir’s dozens of islands—which were once hills, before the land was flooded by a catchwater.

Its nickname, “Thousand Island Lake” recalls its namesake in China’s Zhejiang Province.

Tai Lam Country Park, Tuen Mun Get there: 20-minute taxi from Tuen Mun MTR

Wing Wo Bee Farm The Wing Wo Bee Farm in Sha Tin was set up by beekeeper Yip Ki-hok in 1983 and is one of the city’s last remaining apiaries. This buzzing farm is still a bit of a hidden gem and visitors usually only arrive here by word of mouth, or in passing on a visit to the nearby Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery.

But those who make it here will get a treat: They will be able to watch Yip pull out frames from one of the dozens of hives—without gloves or a beekeeper’s suit. Just be sure not to wear bright colors or perfume so as not to attract or anger the bees! Honey is available to purchase from $52, with the winter honey being a firm favorite. Open daily 11am-5pm, but be sure to call ahead on weekdays.

136 Pai Tau Village, Sha Tin, 9186-4398 / 2691-7917, www.wingwobeefarm.com.hk Get there: 10 minute walk from Sha Tin MTR

47

KNOW & TEL

Into Orbit A guide to the best satellite towns in the New Territories.

Sha Tin Once a vast expanse of farmland by the Shing Mun River, Sha Tin underwent major development in the 1970s, transforming itself into “new town”. You’ll still find a good number of historical landmarks here, including temples and museums, plus parks and—of course—the obligatory shopping mall. The district still manages to retain its neighborhood feel though, with equal measures of mom-and-pop stores and small trendy eats.

See: Historic Tai Wai Village is a stone’s throw away from the MTR station. This village used to be walled to protect its villagers from bandits and clan rivalry—its walls and watchtowers have since been demolished but the traditional entrance, a 100-year-old ancestral home and temple in the village center, still remain.

Stay: Check in to the Hyatt Regency Sha Tin, an impressive hotel set against the Shing Mun River on one side and the Kau To Shan mountains

48

on the other. While you’re here, take a dip in the outdoor pool or enjoy a signature massage in the Melo Spa. 5/F, 18 Chak Cheung St., Sha Tin, 3723-7684, www.hongkong.shatin.hyatt.com

Yuen Long Traditionally a market town, Yuen Long “new town” was created in the early 1980s. The town center is pretty unremarkable compared to its lush green surrounds, where you’ll find walled villages, walking trails and wildlife-ridden wetlands.

Eat: A trip to Yuen Long is incomplete without a visit to the granddaddy of walled villages and old fashioned Cantonese cuisine, Tai Wing Wah Restaurant. The one in Yuen Long is the original of the city-wide branches, opened by local celebrity chef Hugo Leung Man-to.

Go for the signature dish of five-spice marinated chicken, Cantonese sponge cake and an array of traditional dim sum.

2/F, Koon Wong Mansion, 2-6 On Ning Rd., Yuen Long, 2476-9888

Stay: Combine old-school camping with modern glamor at Mingle Farm.

This family-friendly camp ground has caravans and tents for rent— but the highlight is the bubble igloo tents that offer a little slice of sci-fi.

Choose between varying degrees of transparent dwelling: from fully seethrough to partially concealed rooms.

From $1,200 for bubble tents.

30 Fung Ka Wai, Tin Chi Rd., Yuen Long, 2891-8263, www.minglefarm.com

Tai Po This ancient market town has transformed into a much more modern outpost. Yes you can still find historic walled villages and farmed land, but Tai Po is becoming trendier by day.

See: If you haven’t heard about Hong Kong’s newest, largest, glitziest monastery, then you clearly never leave Hong Kong Island: the Tsz Shan Monastery made headlines as the $1.7 billion investment by Li Ka-shing that’s taken 12 years to build. After opening earlier this year,

KNOW & TEL

Hong Kong International Literary Festival 2015 26 October - 8 November

50 SPEAKERS 40 EVENTS

it’s already famous for its bulletproof windows, but of more note is the Guanyin statue—the second tallest in the world. Bookings are being taken months in advance.

Tickets available at www.festival.org.hk

88 Universal Gate Rd., Tai Po, 2123-8666. Free to visit, book at www.tszshan.org

Do: Spanning Tolo Harbour, Tai Po Waterfront Park is a picnicker’s delight. Take a stroll along the tree-lined promenade, climb the 32.4-meter lookout tower or let the kids loose in the well-equipped playground.

Dai Fat St., Tai Po

Eat: If you only come to Tai Po for one thing, let it be for roast goose.

Yat Lok Barbecue Restaurant is a mom-and-pop joint famed for its roast goose—try the crispy, juicy bird served over vermicelli. Don’t neglect the char siu either.

Block A, Po Wah Building, 5 Tai Ming Lane, Tai Po, 2656-4732

49

MRS. KNOW-IT-ALL The List’s very own mom-in-theknow shares her Hong Kong tips and tricks with readers.

MELT AWAY YOUR STRESS • Receive 20% off for all 60 mins Massage • Hollywood SPA Pedicure $350 (original $450)

• Dermalogica Hydrating Facial (60 mins) $658 (original $750) (Special Package offer: buy 5 facials get 2 FREE)

Dear Mrs KIA, I’m hosting a Halloween party for my kids and their friends at school. Where can I get spooky decorations and kid-friendly costumes?

—Mummy in a Bind Dear MB,

These promotions are valid until 31st October 2015 – Join Now ! Please ask your spa concierge for details

JANE PACKER LONDON & TOMAS DE BRUYNE at The Hong Kong Academy of Flower Arrangement

• Cert. / Dip. courses • Short courses / International Classes in English available • Intensive Class / Private Tuition /Group Classes • Team Building Workshops, Corporate Training & Consultancy Services

Hotline: 2388 2979 www.hkafa.com.hk Hong Kong Branch : 15/F, Hennessy Plaza, 164-166 Hennessy Road, Wanchai, HK Kowloon Branch : 8/F, Lokville Commercial Building, 25-27 Lock Road, TST, Kln

Follow The List on Facebook www.facebook.com/ TheList.HongKong As thanks for being loyal readers, we’ll keep you in the know: follow us to find out about the best shops, events and activities.

View exclusive discounts and win free tickets to concerts and movies, plus get the chance to be on the invite list to our own happenin’ events. Love it, list it!

50

Pottinger Street and Wan Chai markets seem to be the main sources for party gear this time of year. You will find plenty of stuff for the spookfest, although the choice for kid’s costumes may be limited.

Matteo Party (www.matteoparty.com) is one of the best known fancy dress purveyors in town, providing not only party supplies but a huge range of costumes for grown-ups all the way to adorable outfits for infants. They have a well-stocked brick-and-mortar store in Causeway Bay (3/F, 530 Jaffe Rd., 2342-8887) but their newest branch at The Pulse (Shop 201C, 2/F, The Pulse, 28 Beach Rd., 2321-0812), showcases more kids’ costumes, as well as piñatas, party favors and decorations.

For stylish party décor, homegrown company Swoon Soirées (www.swoonxoxo.com) is an online store that stocks unique accessories perfect for Halloween, from spooky garlands to orange and black themed cutlery. For a girlier approach, Simply Love (Unit 7A, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-6223,

www.simplylove.com.hk) also offers all the kiddy essentials, from balloons to party favors, to plates decorated with “Frozen” characters and more.

It also carries seasonal Halloweenthemed supplies.

Candy is crucial during this holiday, and if you’re looking for fun varieties to give out, Happy Moments (2/F Shun Lee Mansion, 153 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 6575-8232, www.facebook.com/asia. happymoments) offers a sizable selection of cartoon-themed confectionary, on top of a great range of balloons and costumes.

Still can’t find what you’re looking for? Online toy store Toys Club (itoysclub.com), which only ships within Hong Kong, has great sets of kids’ props and costumes, from firefighters to doctors, which can double up for Halloween as well as for playing make-believe at home.

Hope that helps in making your house party a roaring success—make sure not to skimp on the sweets.

Happy Halloween!

Need help?

Send your questions and conundrums to thelist@hkmagmedia.com.

51

MARKET PLACE LIST-76n5X94_OP.pdf 1 27/8/2015 12:32:21

BUSINESS / PROPERTY

Hong Kong Immigration Services (managed by Ex-Immigration Official)

2151 8082

Employment Investment Dependant Training Defacto Partner Capital Investment Extensions ■

22 nd Floor

■

52

■

Lloyden Consultancy Limited 88 Lockhart Road Wan Chai ■

■

■

• Clean and climate-controlled • Wide range of unit sizes • Convenient location • Friendly and helpful staff • Transportation arranged

Hotline: 2548 4049 www.thestorehouse.com.hk

Call Now For A Free Consultation ■

• Flexible self-storage facilities • Competitive rentals • No hidden extras • Contents insurance available • 24/7 access • Secure facilities with CCTV

Whether you are looking for secure storage for your business or personal needs, The Store House has the solution for you.

info@lloyden.com www.lloyden.com

■

self-storage

Hong Kong’s Leading Self-Storage Company

H.K.

Facilities located at Western District / Kennedy Town / Ap Lei Chau / Tuen Mun For further information: Email: tshenquiry@thestorehouse.com.hk

PROPERTY Stella Abraham Head of Residential Leasing and Relocation Services, Hong Kong +852 2846 5540 stella.abraham@ap.jll.com /JonesLangLaSalleHongKong

Hong Kong’s Wild Side City, metropolitan, skyscrapers – these are words that come into mind when most people talk about Hong Kong. Its magnificent cityscape is world famous, so many visitors are surprised to learn that most of the territory is green. In fact, 75% of Hong Kong is countryside! So if you are a nature lover, fret not!

Below are a few must-see places to visit when venturing up to the New Territories:

http://stellahkrealestate.com www.jllresidential.com/hk

Stella’s 852 advice: If your kids attend schools in the New Territories, such as Harrow, and you are considering moving into the area, feel free to contact me about the latest leasing opportunities!

2. TAI PO

1

A market hub, Tai Po was once a den of pirates and smugglers, but is now home to tens of thousands of Hong Kong residents. If you are a fan of cycling, Tai Po offers bike hire and the start of a waterside cycle path loved by locals that can take you on two wheels to Tai Mei Tuk – known for its water sports and barbeque pits. Take your camera to snap photos of picturesque Plover Cove!

2

NEW TERRITORIES 1. LAU FAU SHAN Lau Fau Shan is a small fishing village on Deep Bay in Hong Kong’s north-west coast, famous for harvesting tons of oysters annually. A visit to the local seafood restaurants are a must if you are a big seafood fan!

3

HONG KONG ISLAND

LANTAU ISLAND 3. SAI KUNG

*Map NOT to scale. For reference only.

The area is known as the city’s back garden because of its beautiful hiking trails, beaches and fishing.

Cool off at one of Hong Kong’s natural infinity pools at the Double Deer stream, before checking out some of the great little restaurants serving fresh fish on Seafood Street – it can be a great way to recover from an active day!

53

CLASSES / HEALTH & BEAUTY MANDARIN 漢語/ CANTONESE 廣東話 CHINESE NANNIES Play, read stories, songs, toys, fun games and guide your kids to discover the daily life…

CHINESE TUTORS For kindergarten, primary and secondary students, Experience tutoring students from GSIS, HKIS, CDNIS, KGV, Kellet, ISF, CIS… Help prepare IGCSE, IB, SAT, HSK… Please visit www.call-a-tutor.com 2572-8989

THE YOGA ROOM (YOGA & PILATES) We are a boutique Yoga Studio in Sheung Wan offering classes in Hot Yoga, Hatha, Meditation, Ashtanga, Vinyasa, Candlelight Yin, Yin Yang, Detox Flow, Pre-natal Yoga, Yoga for kids, Pre-natal Pilates. We also offer yoga private classes at your home, office & our studios. Come and try our 1 free class now!

Tel: 2544-8398. info@yogaroomhk.com www.yogaroomhk.com

DANCETRINITY STUDIO All day classes for Salsa, Ballet, Yoga, Pilates, Jazz, Hip Hop, Tango, Ballroom, ZUMBA and more! See the schedule @ www.dancetrinity.com now! +852 9634-9770

54

宇仁龍拳 KUNG FU / SELF-DEFENSE / TAI CHI All rounded training provides ways to maintain healthy body and release stress. Adult and children classes. www.hyylk.com Tel: 2803-4603

TUTORING IGCSE / A LEVELS / IB / SAT Maths, English & Literature.

Bio, Chemistry, Physics.

Accounting, Bus Studies, Economics, Geography, History, PE, Psychology.

French, German, Spanish, Chinese.

Years 1 to 13. Key Stages 1 to 3, SSAT & UK Common Entrance 7+ to 16+.

ESF, Boarding and International Schools.

Call: Tutoring 6461-8690

CONNIE’S HEALTH STATION IN CENTRAL Paraffin Body Wrap Reduces bloating moisturizes with Vit E 45 mins Trial Offer HK$365 Tel: 6142-4466 Whatsapp: 5598-1359

PRIVATE YOGA French & English David Grunig Swiss teacher certified 500 RYT davidgrunig@gmail.com 6604-5376 www.davidyoga.org

A professional tennis coach is available for all level and all ages. Fun. Stokes production, get fit and match play. Contact Ganes 6447–0905

For advertising rates and further information on Box Ads. Call 2565-2310.

Mobile DJ Service for wedding, private, office parties. Offering disco, club, R&B or by requests.

Mixer provided. Enquiry 9215-8022, discjockeybill@yahoo.com.hk

TENNIS COACH. MOTIVATOR. FITNESS TRAINER U.S. Certified Professional. Stroke production and match play. All ages & levels.

Call Larry 9013-8344 / www.acematchpoint.com

HEALTH & BEAUTY / ENTERLIANMENT

BODY MASSAGE IN CENTRAL 20+ yrs experience First Trial: HK$300 / 60 mins Make a reservation on Whatsapp 6099-8494 Cash ONLY

TRADITIONAL THAI MASSAGE Please relax your body with us For 1 hour $450 Hong Kong dollar, Please call for an appointment Tel: 6774-6727

55

HOME / ETC

HOUSE MOVING AND HANDYMAN SERVICE Moving Painting and plastering Carpentry, Flooring Electrical and Plumbing works Remodeling and Decorations Demolition and Disposal And all kind of Handyman works, Please contact at 9858-4004 - Ringo ORJ DEVELOPMENT AND COMPANY LTD.

Counseling & Parenting Support Counseling (individual, couple, family) and consultation offered by bilingual clinical psychologist (Psy.D). Sliding scale. First free consultation. http://mettahelps.blogspot.com, livemetta@gmail.com, 9147-4234.

For advertising rates and further information on Box Ads. Call 2565-2310.

For rates and more information on Text Ads for TheList Market Place, call 2565 2310.

56

HOME / ETC

15.10.06_thelist_Autumn offers_v3_output.pdf

1

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

FOR ADVERTISING RATES and further information on Box Ads. Call 2534-9552.

HOUSE PAINTING! UK Tradesman. Fast, tidy & reliable. Call: 2815-7929, www.cdihk.com

57

6/10/1

HIDDEN GEMS

SUSHI MANDATE Just because you’re hanging out in Yuen Long doesn’t mean you can’t eat like a king. Sushi Man is a top-grade Japanese restaurant smack bang in the middle of Yuen Long. It’s operated by Chef Cupid Leung, who’ll make you fall in love with marbly hunks of toro, expertly grilled eel and generous helpings of fresh uni for a bargain compared to what you’d expect to pay downtown.

The resto offers four types of omakase menus from $600-1,300 per head.

5 Yan Lok Square, Yuen Long, 2285-9477

58