The Loaded Trunk - Autumn/Winter 2021 - Santa Fe

THE

LOADED TRUNK A collection of inspiration for a life well lived.

FALL / WINTER

S A N TA F E

2021 • ISSUE 06

WHAT’S INSIDE MOOD BOARD

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Spicy chiles awaken the palate, subtle scents of desert and sage calm the soul, nubby Navajo rugs feel cozy and the beauty of art and landscape delight the eyes and mind.

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FLIGHT PLAN A visit to historic, cultural and artsy Santa Fe

INSPIRED BY NATURE

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Explore the New Mexican landscape and home of iconic artist, Georgia O’Keeffe

A HOUSE WITH A SOUL

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A visit to an artful home with a very unique story

IN THE WORKSHOP WITH

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Santa Fe artist Laura Wait

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BRING IT HOME Micaceous Clay Pottery

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PLAYLIST A fusion of cultures and influences that represent the mosaic of Santa Fe

WHAT’S BREWING

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New Mexican Chocolate Elixir

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TASTE THIS Green Chile Chicken Stew Copyright © 2021 Jonna Robison LLC All rights

NOTE FROM JONNA Santa Fe is a magical city, unlike anywhere else in the country.

In autumn, the air turns crisp and fills with the scent of chiles roasting outdoors and crackling piñon fires. The golden landscape is dusted white in winter, a spectacular contrast against the warm honey-colored adobe architecture and brilliant azure sky. Farolitos (luminarias) line the streets and rooftops, glowing with candlelight. On a recent visit, upon my arrival, I met a young woman who wished me many beautiful sunsets during my visit. I certainly saw those vivid painted skies at the close of each day, along with many other memorable sights, tastes, scents and sounds. Santa Fe is a delight to every sense, a place to be savored at every turn.

FLIGHT

T PLAN

A crossroads of history and a medley of cultures, a visit to Santa Fe is a unique experience, unlike anywhere else in the country.

Let’s begin with a bit of history…

Did you know Santa Fe is the oldest capital city in the United States? Sitting at 7199’ elevation, it is the highest altitude capital city. The first governor of the province, Pedro de Peralta, founded the city of Santa Fe in 1610 and named the region La Villa Real de la Santa Fe de San Francisco de Asís (The Royal Town of the Holy Faith of Saint Francis of Assisi), so Santa Fe translates to ‘holy faith.’

Pueblo Native Americans are recorded as inhabiting the area in the 11th century. The Spanish arrived in the 1500’s, marking Santa Fe as the oldest European settlement west of the Mississippi and the capital of the Spanish “Kingdom of New Mexico.” The Spanish planned the city in the pueblo style adobe architecture.

Unfortunately, there were years of turbulence between the native Pueblo people, outside Native American tribes (such as the Apache), and the Spanish. The historic Pueblo Revolt took place in 1680.

The Mexican American War was fought from 1846-1848, during which the city of Santa Fe was captured by the US (on August 15, 1846) and the region was officially acquired by the US at the end of the war. New Mexico formally became the 47th US state in 1912.

Today, 23 Native American tribes, Nations & Pueblos reside in New Mexico. 8 of New Mexico’s 19 Native American Pueblos are north of Santa Fe, and many of them are open to visitors (at least, when there is not a pandemic). They are particularly interesting to visit during their celebration and Feast Days when you literally step inside these native cultures and experience a fascinating fusion of indigenous, Spanish and Catholic influences.

Some of the surviving buildings from the early Spanish days include the Palace of the Governors, the oldest government seat in the entire country, built in 1610 by Pedro de Peralta.

It was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1960 and now serves as a museum. A daily Native American market takes place here, where jewelry and other artisan goods are sold.

Photo San Miguel Chapel is the oldest church in the continental United States, built as a Spanish mission in the adobe style in the early 1600’s. Prior to Covid 19, two services were held in the chapel each day, including one in Latin. On our first visit to Santa Fe many years ago, my youngest daughter became enthralled with the candles and other visitors were afraid she might burn this landmark down. Fortunately, it still stands. The chapel is charming with its simple wood beams and revered retablo. http://sanmiguelchapel.org/

Artists began coming to Santa Fe in the late 1800’s, inspired by the stark beauty of the New Mexican landscape, blend of cultures and the unique adobe architecture. Georgia O’Keeffe is arguably the most famous of these artists, first visiting this city in 1917 and drawn to New Mexico for many years, until moving permanently in 1949 and living out the remainder of her life in the state. More on O’Keeffe later in this issue.

In 2005 Santa Fe was designated a UNESCO Creative City. In fact, one in ten jobs in the city is in the arts! Many writers and authors reside in Santa Fe, making up the highest percentage in the labor force of writers in the country. A mecca for art collectors, there are more than 250 galleries in this town, making it the largest art market in the US behind New York and Los Angeles.

Prepare to expand your palate and your waistline! New any other on the planet and a mosaic of many cultures a combination of the two, locally known as “Christmas” abundance, slathered liberally and deliciously on flavor-infu amazing places to eat in and around Santa Fe.

w Mexican cuisine is an art form, a local cuisine unlike s. The key component is CHILE. Green chile, red chile or ” (the latter is highly recommended!) You will find it in used dishes. It’s certainly got some heat! There are so many . Here are a few of my tried and true favorites.

MODERN GENERAL A general store cum café, where you can shop and eat. The shelves are lined with a delightful selection of homewares, gardening tools, books and local goods and food items, such as honey, jam and more. At the counter you can order from a healthy brunch menu, bakery items, and a smoothie, juice, coffee and tea bar, along with wellness drinks. You will find a fresh, vibrant space to enjoy some flavorful bites.

637 Cerrillos Rd Website Shop @moderngeneralfeedandseed

RESTAURANTS

Image Credit: Jen Judge

This casual café is a favorite with locals. Open for breakfast, weekend brunch, lunch and dinner. From pizza, burgers and sandwiches to a huge variety of Mexican favorites, the menus are expansive and the food is delicious. The breakfast chilaquiles and huevos motuleños are tasty. No wonder locals flock to Tune Up. Pies and cakes are baked daily as well.

1115 Hickox St Website

CAFÉ PASQUAL’S This is a legendary Santa Fe favorite. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner, this popular restaurant near the plaza serves up delicious Santa Fe cuisine. Chef/owner, Katharine Kagel, has published 2 cookbooks full of her wonderful recipes. For breakfast, I highly recommend the huevos motuleños, an unexpected and tasty combination of sautéed bananas, eggs, green peas, and chile, over tortillas. Yum! Reservations recommended.

Café Pasqual’s has a gallery around the corner and upstairs with a wonderful assortment of local art and artisan-made goods.

121 Don Gaspar Ave Website @cafe_pasquals

LA CHOZA This colorful, art-filled family restaurant contains several rooms that are usually packed with loyal diners.

I usually eat at the bar to save time waiting for a table. The chile rellenos are so, so good! Order with Christmas chile (red & green). The sopapillas, plucked fresh from the fryer and served hot with honey, are divine, and I love the tangy tamarind mule mocktail. Delicious and very reasonably priced. Just thinking about this place makes my mouth water and gives me cravings!

905 Alarid St Website

RESTAURANTS

TUNE UP

SAZ

Chef Fernando Olea, who hails from kitchen, while wearing his signature moles, with a contemporary twist, are tasty meats and fish. A degustación for dessert (Dulce Sinfonia - Chef Ol cacophony of flavors that open your experience in a cozy space, filled wi of this issue, Sazon is ranked #4 res Reservations r

221 She Web

ZON

m Mexico City, creates magic in the e cowboy hat. A variety of Mexican especially fabulous when paired with n menu is offered as well. Make room lea’s signature dessert) and enjoy the r palate. This is a remarkable dining ith colorful Mexican art. At the time staurant in the USA by Tripadvisor. recommended.

elby St bsite

GERONIMO I had a fabulous, memorable meal at this multiple awardwinning restaurant, housed in an adobe home dating from 1756.

Starting with a pear & arugula salad with miniature blue cheese grilled sandwiches, I moved to the perfectly cooked elk for the main course, and could not resist completing the meal with toffee panna cotta with candied popcorn for dessert. This standout requires reservations, usually well in advance.

RESTAURANTS

724 Canyon Rd Website

Images courtesy of Geronimo

This divine house of chocolate is passionate about historic drinking chocolate elixirs, including traditional Pre-Columbian Mesoamerican, Mayan and Aztec elixirs spanning the time period 1000 BC to the mid 1900’s AD. In addition to its elixirs, Kakawa Chocolate House concoction decadent and beautiful chocolate creations, including truffles, caramels made with agave, solid dark chocolates, homemade ice cream and chocolate treats, such as their heavenly chocolate brownies with caramel and sea salt. The coffee milkshakes (made with their homemade ice cream and coffee from local roasting company 35° North Coffee) link to: https://35northcoffee.com/ are divine.

Kakawa sells a wide variety of packages of elixir combinations for you to make and enjoy at home.

CHOCOLATE SHOP

KAKAWA CHOCOLATE

Two locations in Santa Fe: 1050 Paseo de Peralta 1300 Rufina Circle #A4 Website @kakawa_chocolatehouse

Image courtesy of Kakawa Chocolate House

STA

TAY

INN OF THE TURQUOISE BEAR “The Great Gatsby of Santa Fe,” this historic adobe structure in SpanishPueblo Revival style was the villa where poet Witter Bynner lived and entertained many famous guests over many years. His guests included Georgia O’Keeffe, Willa Cather, D.H. Lawrence and his wife Frieda, Ansel Adams, Edna St Vincent Millay, Igor Stravinsky, Robert Frost, W.H. Auden, Stephen Spender, Clara Bow, Errol Flyn, Aldous Huxley, Rita Hayworth, Martha Graham, and many others. Each room is named after one of these friends of Bynner and no two are alike. Each is equipped with a kiva fireplace. Restored in 1996, the property is now on the National Register of Historic Places. The grounds and gardens are lovely and conveniently located near the Plaza, Canyon Road, and just a few minutes’ drive from the Railyard District. Breakfast is freshly made each day. Owner, Dan Clark, is very helpful and accommodating. This is my personal favorite place to stay in Santa Fe, where I have found other guests to be warm and friendly, as well as happy to share travel stories and recommendations. It’s a cozy choice with charm, character and a rich slice of Santa Fe’s history.

S TAY

342 E Buena Vista St Website

S TAY Images coutesy of 4 Birds Photography

MUSE

There is a wide array of museums to v

EUMS

visit in Santa Fe. These are just a few…

MUSEUM OF INTERNATIONAL FOLK ART This is a special museum and I LOVE to visit. It is chock full of treasures. In fact it boasts the largest collection of international folk art in the world! There are rotating exhibits, but I particularly love the Girard Wing, where 10,000 pieces of folk art, toys, miniatures, textiles and much more have been on display as a permanent exhibit since 1982, called “Multiple Visions: A Common Bond.” It is unlike any collection I have ever seen. Designer Alexander Girard (known in part for his work at Herman Miller) and his wife, Susan, were avid travelers and collectors, beginning their collection on their honeymoon to Mexico in 1939, when they drove back to the United States with a literal loaded trunk of cultural treasures, antiques and folk art. During their lifetime, they acquired a MASSIVE collection (only 10% of their collection is on display here, which is truly mind-boggling). The Girard Collection represents more than 100 countries on 6 continents. The museum features temporary exhibits as well. On a recent visit I enjoyed an exhibit of Afghan war rugs, which was beautiful, eye-opening and timely.

706 Camino Lejo on Museum Hill Website

IAIA MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY NATIVE ARTS (MoCNA) Situated in a historic Pueblo Revival building (the old post office, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places), this small museum near the plaza is focused on advancing the discourse, knowledge and understanding of contemporary native arts. It is operated by the IAIA (Institute of American Indian Arts), which is a public tribal landgrant college and is the only museum in the country that exhibits, collects and interprets the most progressive work of contemporary Native artists.

108 Cathedral Pl Website

EL RANCHO DE LAS GOLONDRINAS

Once a paraje (stopping place) along the famous Camino Real (the royal road between Mexico City and Santa Fe), this historic ranch, dating from the early 1700’s and known as “The Ranch of the Swallows” is now a nonprofit living history museum. The 200-acre property is located south of Santa Fe on a beautiful swath of landscape. It is focused on sharing the history of New Mexico in the 18th and 19th centuries. Many of the buildings are original (from the early 1700’s), some of the staff dress in the style of the times, and there are often special festivals and weekend events, showcasing the cultural heritage and celebrations of the Southwest.

334 Los Pinos Rd Website @sfgolondrinas

GEORGIA O’KEEFFE A small and wonderful museum containing approximately 150 paintings and numerous charcoal drawings by Georgia O’Keeffe, including some of her earliest art pieces as a teenager.

It is delightful to view her work and see the influence of New Mexico’s landscape as well as the influence of O’Keeffe’s international travels.

Her love of nature is clear as a bell.

Plans are underway for a new museum facility with nearly one acre community green space, scheduled to open at the end of 2024.

Note that advance ticket purchase is required.

217 Johnson St Website @okeeffemuseum

SHO GAL &

OPS LLERIES

SHIPROCK

A magnificent gallery of Native American rugs, pottery, baskets, jewelry, folk art and fine art curated by 5th-generation art dealer Jed Foutz, who was born and raised in a prominent family of Indian art traders on the Navajo Nation. The gallery displays a phenomenal collection of vintage and antique Navajo rugs, which were so valued back in the days they were woven, they were often traded for 60 horses to leaders of other tribes. They are becoming more rare. The turquoise and silver jewelry collection contain antique and vintage pieces, as well as items commissioned by contemporary Native artists.

53 Old Santa Fe Trail, 2nd Floor Website @shiprocksantafe

While visiting the Shiprock, I met a young artist, Zeke Argeanas. An art student at IAIA, he crafts jewelry using traditional Navajo methods, including whetstones, hand files and a pump drill (bead drill) to fashion beads entirely himself. Some of his practices involve singing ceremonial songs during the creation of a piece of jewelry, invoking blessings for the future wearer.

The necklace Zeke is wearing is crafted from Mediterranean coral, turquoise and abalone shell.

The stones hold significance to the Navajos. Zeke says, “We wear coral to call upon various forms of moisture, be it rain, snow and the like. Water is a scarce element for us out here in the southwestern United States, which is why we wear it. Certain water clans and medicine people will wear coral for this, and for others it can be a symbol of status. Coral is a rare gem that comes from the ocean, so to possess such an item that holds great energy is precious, as well as powerful.”

Zeke’s beautiful creations are available at Shiprock.

Photo of Zeke Argeanas pictured above

SUSAN’S CHRISTMAS SHOP Susan Weber has owned this Christmas shop for 40 years. She is a wealth of information about Santa Fe and its surrounding pueblos. She carries a lovely assortment of Christmas decorations, including ornaments and nativities crafted by local artists she personally knows in the pueblos. This is a special shop and well worth a visit… you will certainly find something unique and special. Susan has published four books: Christmas in Santa Fe, Susan’s Christmas Shop, Nativities of the Southwest and Nativities of the World.

On a Christmas visit to Santa Fe a few years back, Susan shared some really wonderful tips on where to go to enjoy some of the Christmas celebrations at nearby pueblos, which ended up being the highlight of our entire visit.

115 E Palace Ave Website

SPIRIT OF THE EARTH This lovely boutique houses a beautifully curated selection of home goods, gifts, clothing and jewelry. I particularly admire the work of jeweler Tony Malmed (he and his wife were owners of the boutique from 1983-2018). His work is made from ethically sourced gems and repurposed gold and silver and his collection is influenced by his 45+ years of travel.

108 Don Gaspar Ave Website @sote_1982 Tony’s work is also available online HERE

ANDREA FISHER This shop boasts a large collection of fine pottery made by local Pueblo potters, as well as regional tribes. There is much to see and learn about this beautiful form of Native art.

100 W San Francisco St Website @andreafisherfinepottery

SANTA FE DRY GOODS This exquisite shop is known for its gorgeous curated collections of couture clothing, footwear, fabulous jewelry, accessories and home goods from designers throughout the world. Standouts include the sophisticated mud silk clothing by Taiwanese designer Sophie Hong and chunky, modern baroque pearl and leather jewelry made by Danish company, Monies. The shop has two sister boutiques on the same street: Workshop (an unconventional selection of clothing and shoes from up and coming European designers) and Wild Life (an array of homewares from illustrious makers and artisans around the world).

53 Old Santa Fe Trail Website @santafedrygoods @workshopsantafe @wildlifesantafe

PASQUAL’S GALLERY Follow the yellow brick “trail” from Café Pasqual’s to this hidden gem of a gallery in a nearby building upstairs. You will find a terrific and well-curated collection of art, ceramics, assemblage, paper maché and more by local artists, including micaceous pottery, unique to this area.

121 Don Gaspar Ave Website

COLLECTED WORKS If you love visiting local bookshops on your travels, you’ll love this terrific bookstore with its spacious coffee shop near the plaza. You can even work on a jigsaw puzzle while you sip coffee and peruse a book.

202 Galisteo St Website

ROCKI GORMAN Rocki developed her love of jewelry as a youngster, selling her first necklace at the age of seven.

Her father mined turquoise and traded with local dealers to sell at the family boutique in New Jersey. Rocki later moved to New Mexico, where she grew into one of the top designers of Southwestern jewelry. She designs contemporary jewelry, which is crafted by Native Americans, whom she works closely with as they continue their rich traditions in silversmithing. These artisans spend five days polishing the Navajo pearls to achieve a vintage patina. Among the jewelry, her shop sells clothing and her signature “giddy up” boots (custom made vintage boots).

119 Old Santa Fe Trail (La Fonda Hotel) Website

JEWELS

Jewelry artist, Jewels, has always made jewelry for as long as she remembers. She’s an expert in her craft, and she has never had any other kind of job. Jewels was raised in Libya and educated in Switzerland.

As a child, she recalls spending many Saturday mornings with her Italian mother in the souks, treasure hunting. Her mother loved jewelry. Jewels recalls being seduced by the exotic charms of Tripoli. She later spent 20 years as a hippie in India, then ended up in Santa Fe and Marrakesh, Morocco. With a team of three people in Santa Fe and five in Marrakesh, Jewels divides her time between her homes and ateliers in both beautiful cities. She creates very unusual, beautiful jewelry pieces using antique coins, talismans, bones, African trading beads and more. She has a following of loyal collectors throughout the world and is open by appointment.

114 Candelario St Website @jewelsarts

RAINBOW MAN

Open since 1945, this shop specializes in authentic Native American and Hispanic arts and crafts, both vintage and contemporary, and is chock full of interesting items. The shop has an impressive collection of beautifully crafted turquoise jewelry from well known silversmiths and jewelry artisans. The vintage pieces are particularly interesting. There is also a delightful collection of folk art, including Pueblo storytellers, many of which are quite collectible.

107 E Palace Ave Website

MORNING STAR GALLERY

This superb gallery houses not only a wonderful collection of art but also beautifully displayed antique beaded Native American treasures and textiles as well as pottery and jewelry. Clients include serious collectors, but go even if you aren’t, because you’ll see a wondrous collection and will likely learn something interesting.

513 Canyon Rd Website @morningstargallery

CIELO HANDCRAFTED A variety of handcrafted goods by local artisans, including a variety of homewares, dishes, body products and much more. I admire the wood boards made by a local craftsman who sources his own wood, such as mesquite, and inlays turquoise. There are loads of treasures tucked into this little shop on Canyon Road.

836 Canyon Rd Website @cielohandcrafted

LESLIE FLYNT

Leslie launched her shop on Canyon Road in 1989, brimming with artisan-made home products sourced from around the globe. Wares include handwoven table linens from Guatemala and Mexico, hand painted Talavera pottery, handmade American pine furniture, clothing, my favorite cotton pajamas, body products, stationery and HEAPS more.

225 Canyon Rd Website

MEYER GALLERY Founded in Park City in 1967 and opened in Santa Fe in the 1980’s by the same owners, Meyer Gallery is one of the finest galleries in Santa Fe and beyond. It has a stunning collection of works by artists from New Mexico and across the West, including the delightful trompe l’oeil paintings by Natalie Featherston, New Mexico landscapes by Ken Daggett and Francis Livingston (those color palettes!!), bold, brilliant brush strokes in Brad Price’s vivid paintings and so much more.

The gallery also displays a stunning collection of sculptures from the estate of renowned sculptor, Dave McGary, as well as art work by the late Robert Daughters.

225 Canyon Rd #14 Website @meyer_gallery

NEDRA MATEUCCI Established in 1972, this gallery is one of the most renowned galleries in the region. The extensive property consists of a beautiful old house with large gardens, ample space to exhibit its fine works and outdoor sculptures. Paintings representing 19th and 20th century American art are displayed throughout the many rooms, as well as contemporary western art. The collection is truly astonishing. The gallery also owns Morning Star Gallery on Canyon Road. Both galleries are not to be missed!

1075 Paseo de Peralta Website @nedramatteuccigalleries

HOMEFROCKS

This is a sweet shop with a calm, organic aesthetic. On display is a collection of artful and relaxed women’s clothing of soft silk and earthy linen with unfinished seams, locally designed and made by artisan seamstresses. There are indigo dyed textiles, handwoven scarves and wraps from Oaxaca, finely woven Panama hats by Portlander, Brookes Boswell, and silver and turquoise jewelry. The airy studio is at the back of the shop, reflecting owner Nancy Traugott’s creativity.

550 Canyon Rd Website @homefrocks

ROADSIDE AMERICA’S GALLERY OF THE WEST Treasures fill the space of longtime antiques dealers Ted Birbilis and Sandy Raulston, including vintage Navajo rugs, beaded leather moccasins, silver and turquoise jewelry, and so much more. Their areas of specialty are: American Indian, American Arts and Crafts, fine art, California aRancho, Spanish Revival, The Popular Arts of Mexico, folk art, American Modernist Studio Pottery and more. I just might have walked away with some spectacular handwoven antique Navajo rugs.

905 Cerrillos Rd Website

HIGHLIGHTS

EMI ARTE FLAMENCO The longstanding tradition of flamenco in New Mexico celebrates the Spanish influences in the state. You can see flamenco at dinner shows and in some hotels. One of the most authentic flamenco performances I have seen is Emi Arte Flamenco. La Emi began studying flamenco at the age of four. She began teaching school students as a 12-year-old and studied extensively throughout Spain. She founded her own nonprofit flamenco academy and performs at the Benitez Cabaret at The Lodge in Santa Fe, where she has danced for 20 years. She is a passionate, expressive performer and an absolute delight to watch.

Website

Images courtesy of Emi Arte Flamenco

OUT OF

F TOWN

MADRID

30 minutes outside of Santa Fe, along the Turquoise Trail, lies the funky old ex-mining town of Madrid (pronounced Mad-rid, unlike the city in Spain). The street is lined with galleries and willy nilly art. It seems to be a melting pot of quirky artists

RANGE WEST GALLERY This small gallery with a front garden is a gem.

Owned by husband and wife, Joshua Gannon and Kathleen Casey, both are artists. Kathleen is a potter of mica clay, painter and jewelry maker, and Joshua chisels stone fountains, makes furniture and crafts fabulous bells and windchimes with vintage sedaline tanks. Other wonderful works are exhibited too (pottery, metal art, paintings and more) by artist friends of the owners who also live and work in this tight-knit artist community.

2863 Highway 14 Website

BANDELIER NATIONAL MONUMENT Between 500-900 years ago, the Ancestral Pueblo people lived in this beautiful canyon, carving homes in the cliffs and surviving by farming and hunting. Set on 33,000 acres, there are trails along the ruins and beautiful scenic views. It is quite a fascinating place to explore. Run by the National Park Service, Bandelier is located 45 minutes northwest of Santa Fe in Los Alamos. There is an entrance fee, but a National Parks Pass will allow you to visit free of charge.

Website: https://www.nps.gov/band/index.htm

EL SANTUARIO DE CHIMAYO A beautiful example of Spanish Colonial architecture, this small adobe church in the Sangre de Cristo mountains of Chimayo is one of the most important Catholic pilgrimage centers in the United States. More than 300,000 visitors come every year. Even prior to its construction in 1813, people of faith from Native Americans to Hispanics and others traveled here to offer prayers for healing. Pueblo Indians believed the land the church now sits on had healing powers several centuries ago. Many still believe in the healing powers of the dirt inside the chapel, and leave behind canes, wheelchairs and other emblems of miracles received.

Down the street is the charming Santo Niño Chapel. Dating from the 1850’s, it is devoted to the Holy Child of Atocha and has a storied past, having to do with New Mexico National Guardsman captured by the Japanese during World War II and sent to POW camps. Those who survived attributed their lives to their faith in the intercession of Santo Niño de Atocha. Pilgrims leave shoes intended for the Holy Child, as it is rumored the Santo Niño wanders the valleys of Chimayo during the night to bring comfort and healing to the needy. He wears out his shoes, so people bring children’s shoes as gratitude for answered prayers and a gift. The chapel’s renovations are childlike and colorful in order for it to be relatable to children.

INSP

BY NA

The area known as O’Keeffe Country is north of Santa Fe at Ab spell in 1929, when she first visited the state. She was mesmerized from the midwest and east coast landscapes where she had spen tographer, Alfred Stieglitz, and based in New York, O’Keeffe spen during those months. She purchased her first home in New Mexico 1945, she finally purchased her home in Abiquiu (after trying to bu and spent three years completing a full renovation to the crumblin cooking with the many vegetables she grew. When Stieglitz passed in both her homes in Abiquiu and Ghost Ranch until in 1984, whe

PIRED ATURE

biquiu and Ghost Ranch. Georgia O’Keeffe fell under New Mexico’s by the landscape and the cultural influences, which were so different nt her life up to that point. Married to renowned art dealer and phont the following 20 summers in New Mexico, living and working there o in 1940; Ghost Ranch (which remained her summer home). Then, in uy it for a decade) from the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Santa Fe ng adobe structure. She treasured her garden at Abiquiu and enjoyed d away in 1949, O’Keeffe moved to New Mexico permanently, residing en she moved to Santa Fe, where she died in 1986, at the age of 98.

The adobe home Georgia O’Keeffe lived in and painted at for 35 years is located in Abiquiu, 53 miles north of Santa Fe. It is one of the most important artistic sites in the southwestern United States. It is truly a highlight to visit this beautiful place, to walk through her home, visit her studio, and see her beloved gardens that grew the food she loved to cook with.

Note: Open April through November. Advance tickets are required https://www.okeeffemuseum.org/store/products/ abiquiu/abiquiu-home-studio-tour/ Of her Abiquiu home: “It’s the most wonderful place you can imagine… It’s so beautiful there. It’s ridiculous.”

(Georgia O’Keeffe, 1945)

Georgia O’Keeffe House & Studio

Ghost Ranch

Georgia O’Keeffe first visited Ghost Ranch in 1934, and was disappointed to learn it was a dude ranch (visited by some of America’s wealthiest families). She spent a night at a cottage there and fell in love with the place, staying the entire summer and subsequent summers. In 1940, she purchased a 7-acre plot of land and house at Ghost Ranch called Rancho de los Burros. When Ghost Ranch was gifted by its owners to the Presbyterian Church, O’Keeffe retained her privacy on her small parcel of land and continued to spend summers there, painting the mountains, mesas, and vistas she so loved. The Church still owns Ghost Ranch and hosts retreats, workshops, camps, reunions, weddings and much more. There are several hiking trails to enjoy, trail rides and tours, including tours such as the Georgia O’Keeffe Landscape Tour, Walking In O’Keeffe’s Footsteps Tour, and Wednesdays With O’Keeffe Tour, which combines a visit to her home and studio in Abiquiu, lunch in the dining hall and the landscape tour. The ranch is simply stunning, surrounded by striated mountains and rocky landscape. It’s no wonder O’Keeffe was so artistically inspired by this heavenly gift of nature.

A HOUSE WITH A SOUL

uring a recent visit to Santa Fe, the current homeowners, Spencer and Lauren Lee, guided my husband and I through this most interesting and lovely home, and shared it’s story with us. As we meandered through the house, we were delighted with every gorgeous detail. The Lees, both gifted artists, have nurtured this house and the 5.5 acres upon which it rests, creating the artful, peaceful respite it is today.

20 years ago, construction of this home was completed by its visionary, the owner of an art gallery in Santa Fe. The architecture was inspired by circular motifs of Mayan and Incan architecture, as well as elements of Spanish Colonial style. High windows in the living room are tapered at the top and were patterned after the Temple of the Sun in Machu Picchu. Treasures were transported to Santa Fe from Mexico and South America, including a number of antique wood doors from Peru(the front door is over 300 years old) and 22 sets of antique shutters. A spiral staircase from a 19th-century Mexican church, which reportedly burned down, was also reclaimed. The house was built entirely around these doors, shutters and the staircase. A round window directly above the staircase was placed so the moon passes directly overhead during the autumnal equinox. In the kitchen and bathrooms, counters and shelves were built to accommodate the old doors and shutters as cabinetry. The wood is raw and beautiful in its old age. Can you imagine the history these doors have witnessed over the years?

On a gentle hill with a magnificent view of the Sangre de Christo foothills and the distant Jemez Mountains sits a remarkable and unique house.

The house was built using straw bale construction techniques, supported by wood imported from Mexico and Peru. A small door in the master bedroom, called a “truth door,” opens to reveal a glimpse of the straw. In typical New Mexican style, the walls are finished in plaster and stucco. The pale apricot interior plaster exudes a soft, warm glow throughout the house. The vigas (ceiling beams) were harvested locally from the nearby Jemez mountains. Walls in the guest bathroom shower and ceiling are lined with basalt tiles, the same material used for tool making by local Native Americans. All materials seem at one with the land, including the floors of polished forest green Brazilian slate.

Artisans from Guanajuato, Mexico were brought up to build the entry rotunda and fireplace using rocks from the property, patterned after the Moorish influence in that city. Rose quartz crystals, also found on the property, were tucked in between the stones.

TRUTH DOOR IN THE MASTER BEDROOM

Eventually, the original owners moved out and another family purchased the home. Unfortunately, the property and land fell into disrepair.

In 2018, Spencer and Lauren Lee purchased the home.

They were new to New Mexico, having spent 17 years overseas in Asia and Europe where Spencer spent his career with the CIA and they raised their family. The Lees recognized the soul of this house and breathed new life into it. But it was not an easy feat. They soon discovered there were numerous issues with the interior.

One day, shortly after moving in, Lauren called Spencer and exclaimed, “It’s raining!” When Spencer responded, “I know,” Lauren added, “Inside!” Rain was coming in through the chimney stonework and vigas. It even once snowed in the guest bedroom and bathroom!

THE VANITY IN MASTER BATHROOM WAS CREATED AROUND ANTIQUE DOORS

The Lees named their home Evercotê.

Spencer explains, “It is a place name from my books—the last remains of an ancient, undying forest where two lovers, Läuril and Tælysin, retreat from the world and make for themselves an idyllic and lasting home after passing through many adventures. As it turned out, a great, final adventure remained for them.”

VIEW FROM THE BACK OF THE HOME

BRONZE SOAKING TUB ON THE PROPERTY

Image courtesy of Spencer and Laura Lee

The couple has spent the past few years repairing interior issues and cleaning up the property, clearing overgrowth, laying 600 yards of rock-lined trails to create a loop through the landscape and much more (it continues to be a work in progress). They installed a Japanese soaking tub, planted a lavender garden (160 lavender plants) and created Zen gardens, complete with handcrafted wood rakes to rake the stones. The neighbor children love to come and play at “Quartz Hill,” where they collect pink quartz and arrange into spirals and other formations. They also helped the Lees create a map of this magical property. Their three adult children and grandchildren love to visit and camp in the authentic teepee under the star-filled sky.

During their years abroad, the Lees gathered a wonderfully curated collection of antiques and objets d’art, including a collection of antique blue and white porcelain from a shipwreck in the Strait of Malacca. Every item has found its place in their home, joining the relics brought up from Mexico and South America. Both Spencer and Lauren paint, and their artwork is displayed throughout the space. Spencer is a portrait painter and is finishing up a commissioned painting for a famed world leader. He is also an author and has published a trilogy titled The Thirteenth Essene.

Lauren is a mixed media artist, currently training in Tony Ryder’s classical Santa Fe studio. Her designer’s eye is evident with her artful arrangements throughout the home.

Spencer and Lauren have tended this house and landscape as you would tend a derelict garden, with a considerable amount of love and patience. The result is absolutely exquisite. A house with a soul indeed… and with two talented souls who have dedicated themselves to making it so.

Portrait of Spencer and Lauren painted by Spender Lee

Spencer Lee’s author website If you are interested in commissioning a portrait by Spencer, you may contact him here spencernormanlee@gmail.com

IN THE WORKSH WITH...

HOP LAURA WAIT

s I entered artist Laura Wait’s light-filled studio, I was struck by light and space. The large windows on three walls framed the New Mexico landscape and

the impending storm.

Her husband built this inspiring structure for her, and she appears to use every inch to create her incredible works of art.

Finished paintings hang on white walls and works in progress stand on benches and lie on tables, awaiting the words and symbols Laura will add.

Laura always knew she wanted to be an artist. She studied art history at Barnard College in New York, then printmaking in Los Angeles. She married a British fellow and moved to London, where she attended Croydon College of Art and took courses in etching, lithography, bookbinding and calligraphy. She then earned a secondary degree in bookbinding.

‘When her marriage ended, Laura returned to the US, settling in Denver where she worked in bookbinding for 10 years, practicing traditional methods. She remarried and moved to Steamboat Springs Colorado, where she raised a son and began painting again, primarily with acrylic paints and ink.

Laura’s work is mixed media on wood panels. All of the years she spent honing her artistic skills in the areas of printmaking and bookbinding have led to the particular techniques she uses in her work today. She creates papers, often using printmaking techniques, which she then cuts into smaller pieces to attach to her panels. She has drawers full of beautiful papers that she has created to incorporate into her paintings. She also uses a form of printmaking using mylar, allowing her to transfer the marks to the panels with mediums, resulting in a super smooth paint quality.

An intriguing facet to Laura’s work is her fascination with words. While we moved about her studio, I wanted to learn more about what inspires Laura.

WHEN I FIRST SAW YOUR WORK, IT REMINDED ME OF JAPANESE GRAFFITI Well, that’s partly the idea. Some of my favorite contemporary artists use graffiti in their work. For example, New York artist Jose Parla is really well known. He paints on a huge scale and painted a mural at the World Trade Center YOU MENTIONED ON YOUR WEBSITE YOU’RE INFLUENCED BY MEDIEVAL ILLUMINATED MANUSCRIPTS. It’s the calligraphy… lots of handwriting. I study handwriting, such as old historic writing, Asian writing and ancient writing. Lately, it’s hieroglyphics. It gives me inspiration to go onward YOU HAVE A LOVE FOR WORDS AND SYMBOLS. HOW HAS THAT IMPACTED YOUR WORK? – I used to make artist books. I have always been interested in symbolism and my artist books contain much of it. I incorporated printmaking in my books. For example, I created a book about the letter X because I was always fascinated by this letter. It has an energy to it. I looked for every word I could find that started with X, and most have to do with danger, the four elements, sex, etc. In this book I experimented with lots of handwriting and letterpress.

Creating this book is what led me to all the paintings I’m doing now.

HOW HAS YOUR WORK EVOLVED OVER THE YEARS? I started painting landscapes in high school and off and on for many years, as well as painting people, primarily women and kitchens. Then I created a series of books about garden symbolism and that slowly evolved into the abstraction that I’m doing now. I had my first art exhibit in the late 90’s in Denver, where I showed books and paintings. Over time, I started using more marks. Now the marks are larger.

YOU HAVE SAID THAT YOU “CREATE WALLS WITH SCRIBBLING AND WRITING” AND THEY LOOK AS IF THEY HAVE BEEN MADE OVER TIME. SO, YOU’RE IMAGINING THE WOOD PANEL AS A WALL? Well, that’s partly the idea. Some of my favorite contemporary artists use graffiti in their work. For example, New York artist Jose Parla is really well known. He paints on a huge scale and painted a mural at the World Trade Center YOU SAID THAT SOME OF THESE WALLS ARE IMAGINED TO BE UNDER WATER IN ANCIENT TIMES AND ON OTHER PLANETS. CAN YOU SHARE MORE ABOUT THIS? Well, it depends on where my brain is working at the time. I’ve done a series of number paintings and a geography series… seas of the moon, for example.

That’s partly how I come up with titles for my work.

I look at a list of moon titles, such as a list of names for full moons in the Farmer’s Almanac, and I think those are cool names.

WHAT KINDS OF TOOLS DO YOU USE? DO YOU USE JAPANESE CALLIGRAPHY BRUSHES? Yes, lots of them. I love these brushes made by potters, inspired by Japan. They make really great marks. I use bookbinding tools all the time.

HOW DID YOU END UP HERE IN SANTA FE IN 2011?

I always liked Santa Fe. I just decided I had to live here and talked my husband into it! We have both always loved it here. I enjoy the people I have met. There are many artists and those who have come from afar who are musicians and have done all kinds of interesting things. I also appreciate the combination of cultures.

Laura Wait website Follow Laura on Instagram: @laurawaitart Laura’s work can be found at GF Contemporary in Santa Fe as well as galleries across the country HERE

BRING IT HOME

“When you look into the bowl it’s like looking at the Santa Fe night sky,” a shopkeeper told me, as I admired the hand-formed vessels made of micaceous clay at a gallery. I had never seen anything like it before. It was as if I was viewing a starry sky, including the Milky Way. Micaceous clay pottery gleams with a fine glittery effect because of the mica in the clay, which is found in volcanic regions at elevations above 8,000 feet. Potters use Native American pottery methods from over 700 years ago to create these pots and vessels, which are able to cook food directly on the fire, unlike other types of pottery. Micaceous pottery is unglazed, so the finished material is truly organic. Those who cook using these pots say the clay actually enhances the flavor of the dish cooked within, imparting a sweet, earthiness.

The clay is alkaline and balances the acidity of the food cooked within it, infusing it with a more complex flavor.

Mica is known to have insulating properties, so hot food stays warmer in these vessels, another feature that sets it apart from its clay counterparts.

Photo of Yolanda Rawlings and bl

The process of creating micaceous clay pottery is arduous… the vessels are hand formed using the coil method then smoothed, scraped, sanded and polished with slip, then with smooth stones, before firing. Vessels are fired on an open fire and a finished piece is a gleaming earthy brown, sometimes with “fire clouds” (distinctive markings from the fire). When oxygen is deprived, the piece turns entirely black. Sometimes potters attach a horse hair on the extremely hot vessel, which immediately singes, leaving behind a black wavy line.

Yolanda Rawlings learned the art of micaceous pottery from the late master potter, Felipe Ortega. Among the many one-of-a kind vessels she creates are shallow bowls with a very organic shape and nature that represent the rolling hills surrounding her home. She also makes traditional bean pots, which she describes as the quintessential indigenous shape of micaceous pottery, and the ideal vessel for cooking anything requiring a longer cooking time, such as soups and stews, since the belly of the pot keeps flavors in and the neck reduces the risk of boiling over.

lack and white photo courtesy of Yolanda Rawlings

“Cooking and using these micaceous clay vessels is a true connection to the Land of Enchantment. Earth, Wind, Water and Fire intersect in the making of the vessels.”

-Yolanda Rawlings Where to buy Yolanda’s work: Yolanda Rawlings @micaceouspottery Cafe Pasqual’s Gallery

PLAY LIS T Mis Amigos del Norte Un Trocito Del Cielo The Blue Ventures Darren Cordove Y Calo The Weary Kind The Wandering Ryan Bingham Ryan Bingham The Four Seasons Keyboard Partita No. 3 Antonio Vivaldo, Yo-Yo Ma, Johann Sebastian Bach Santa Fe Santa Fe Beirut Ottmar Liebert 4 Impromptus, Op.90 D.899: No2 Octet in E-Flat, Op.20:IV. Presto AllegroFrnz Schubert, Radu Lupu Felix Mendelssohn, James Ehnes Mi Amigo (Dos o Tres Tequilas) Brandenburg Concerto No.2 Al Hurricane, AlHuricane, Jr. Johann Sebastian Bavh

These selections are inspired by the fusion of Spanish influences, New Mexican artists and a few of the classical favorites of artist Georgia O’Keeffe, who fell in love with the New Mexico landscape and made it her home.

Click Here To Listen

WHAT’S BREWING

MEXICAN HOT CHOCOLATE A spicy, fragrant cup of Mexican hot chocolate is always a hit. With New Mexican ingredients, such as chocolate granules from my favorite Santa Fe chocolate shop, Kakawa Chocolate House, and ground New Mexican red chile from Chimayo, a New Mexican Chocolate Elixir is a heavenly concoction.

Combine 5-6 tablespoons of Kakawa’s American elixir with 8 ounces whole milk and ground red chile (I use ¼-½ teaspoon mild red New Mexico chile from Chimayo, but the amount you add depends on the heat of the chile you prefer).

Add ¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon and a dash of cayenne for an extra kick in the pants. Blend with a frother and enjoy this cup of decadence!

Chocolate from Kakawa Chocolate House Hand painted Talavera dishware and handwoven cotton napkin purchased at Leslie Flynt in Santa Fe Biscochitos (New Mexico’s State Cookies) are a lovely accompaniment to this drink (and a wonderful tea cookie as well). Click here for the recipe

GREEN CHILE CHICKEN STEW

When the weather turns cold, it seems all I want to eat are soups and stews. When I was in the kitchen experimentin recipe, my husband followed his nose upstairs and asked, “What in the world are you making? It smells amazing and some as soon as it’s ready!”

This stew is truly delicious. And for an even tastier stew, get your hands on a micaceous clay pot (see the Bring it Ho tion of this issue). I made two batches side by side, one in my micaceous clay pot and one in my cast iron pot. My hu and I both agreed the stew cooked in the clay pot had more depth and greater flavor

INGREDIENTS 3-4 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, chopped 1-½ teaspoons kosher salt 4 cloves garlic, minced ½ teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted then ground (use spice blender or mortar and pestle) 1 to 1-½ cups roasted New Mexico green chile, chopped, plus additional to save for garnish (if you can’t get Hatch chiles, you can substitute with Anaheim chiles). I roast them whole right on the flame of my stove until the skin is blistered with black spos.

6 cups chicken stock 2 cups red potatoes, peeled and cut into ½” cubes 1 cup corn kernels, fresh off the cob or frozen 3 cups cooked chicken (I like a rotisserie chicken so I can use both light and dark meat), cut up into smallish pieces ¼-½ teaspoon ground green New Mexico chile (optional)

DIRECTIONS Heat olive oil in a pot over medium heat and add onions and salt, stirring until soft and a bit translucent (5-6 minutes). Add garlic and cumin and cook for 1 minute. Then stir in chopped chiles and chicken stock.

Bring to a boil.

Turn heat to low and stir in chopped chicken, potatoes and corn. Simmer for 20-25 minutes, until potatoes are just tender.

Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Serve with additional roasted chopped chile, cilantro, lime wedges and warm corn tortillas.

Makes 6 servings.

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Concept and content by Jonna Robison jonnarobison.com Produced and designed by Sophie Robison All photographs (except where noted)

by Jonna Robison