THE
LOADED TRUNK A collection of inspiration for a life well lived.
MARRAKESH
WHAT’S INSIDE? Mood Board on
4
the Magic carpet
Flight plan
5
inspired By nature
32
in the workshop with...
37
Bring it hoMe
48
i
take you to Marrakesh where i share soMe oF My Favorite places to eat, shop and explore
escape
to the sahara desert to ride caMels and sleep under a Blanket oF stars.
MaryaM Montague
FroM
Morocco
the loaded trunk latest
Finds For your own glaMping adventure
playlist let
Me transport you to exotic
north aFrica
what’s Brewing in
My teacup this
autuMn
50 57 58 59
taste this
Moroccan chicken tagine Copyright © 2020 Jonna Robison LLC All rights reserved
NOTE FROM JONNA
“
As an interior designer, I seek inspiration for my work from many sources. Imbued with a deep and innate curiosity, I am passionate about exploring the world and its fascinating cultures, making connections with people (particularly artisans) and sourcing beautiful objets d’art from around the globe for my clients. Because I am inspired by so many facets of this world, I decided to compile my wellsprings of inspiration into a visual journey to share with others. I hope to leave you feeling INSPIRED!
FLIGHT PLAN Morocco… perched on the northwest tip of Africa, directly south of Spain, is an exotic fusion of Berber, Arabian and European influences with a fascinating history. The Red City of Marrakesh lies in western Morocco.
Marrakesh
is a feast for all the senses...
It is a visual delight, as I gaze upward at a splendid palace ceiling and marvel at the intricate paintwork. I turn my head to admire the walls and columns, sheathed with delicately carved geps (gypsum plaster) and elaborate zellij tile mosaics. In the medieval labyrinth of the souks in the ancient walled medina, my head spins at the dazzling interplay of shimmering light and exuberant color… the tall cones of exotic spices for sale, the array of brilliant leather slippers and pottery, and the cacophony of donkeys, bicycles and people jostling their way through the maze of tiny lanes. Back at my riad I admire the exquisite architectural details in the lavish courtyard, punctuated by sweet orange trees.
Around the corner I follow my nose toward the alluring aroma of meat sizzling in a public square. I sit at a cafe and sip mint tea, inhaling the fragrant steamy infusion. My palate is awakened by spicy tagine, flavored with saffron, prunes, olives, lemon and a plethora of tasty delights. Juicy oranges, spiced with cinnamon, enliven my taste buds.
Image credit: MVV
The nubby texture of flat-weave rugs and thick silky pile of handmade vintage wool carpets, woven by Berber women, tempt me with their deep vegetable-dyed hues. I rub my hands across a handwoven handira (wedding blanket), sparkling with tiny mirrored sequins, intended to ward off the evil eye. Smooth supple leather poufs, hand-stitched together, and brilliant gem-colored glass lanterns, reflecting the light, line the market stalls. Contrasting textures abound and delight the eye.
The morning stillness is broken by banging on metal as craftsmen hammer exquisite designs into brass Moroccan lanterns. Throughout the day, the call to prayer is sung out, in beautiful Arabic, from the 12th-century Koutoubia mosque, followed by similar calls from all the mosques in the city, until the air soon fills with a melody of calls from all directions, reminding Muslims to pray. I listen to the lilting music accompanying dancers and snake charmers in Jemaa el-Fna, the main public square, in the evening. But there is absolute peace and stillness when we escape the city to ride camels in the Sahara Desert under a blanket of twinkling stars, and again in the morning as the sun rises high above the vast dunes.
SIGHTS NOT TO MISS
Ben Youssef Madrasa A former Islamic college, founded in the 14th century, this was historically the largest madrasa in Morocco. The present building was constructed in the 16th century. The Moorish architecture, with its intricate tilework and carved geps, is extraordinary to behold.
Bahia Palace This grand palace is a masterpiece of Moorish art and architecture, built in the 19th century by Minister Ahmed bin Musa in honor of his wife, Bahia. It is now a museum, which is very interesting to see. Admire the carved, painted cedarwood, stained glass windows illuminated by the afternoon sun, detailed tilework and courtyard gardens.
SAADIAN TOMBS A Necropolis dating back to the 16th century, adjacent to the Kasbah Mosque. The sepulchers and mausoleums were sealed off after the fall of the Saadi Dynasty and rediscovered in 1917. The lavish zellij tilework, carvings and architectural details are worth seeing.
Jardin MaJorelle & BerBer MuseuM www.jardinmajorelle.com French painter, Jacque Majorelle, spent 40 years creating the beautiful gardens and the vivid blue villa, which color is referred to as “majorelle blue.” Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé purchased and preserved the property in 1980. It is a pleasure to stroll the gardens and enjoy the ambling paths, water features and botanical specimens. The small Berber Museum on the property is worth a visit as well. If you have time, visit the YSL Museum nearby.
Boucharouite MuseuM 107 Derb al Cadi www.lacollectionberbere.com This small and very interesting museum specializes in Boucharouite rugs (“rag rugs” woven using old pieces of clothing, thus rather sentimental). If you appreciate textiles, this is a must. I once visited the home of a Moroccan family in a tiny village, and the woman of the house was so proud to show me her handmade Boucharouite rugs. A truly unique part of the Moroccan textile world.
SHOPS
You can spend days exploring and losing yourself in the souks in the medina, browsing shops and stalls selling rugs, metal lanterns, leather slippers (as well as bags, jackets, etc), pottery, silver trays and teapots, jewelry, basketry, spices, argan oil and other beauty products, fresh squeezed orange juice and even chameleons. Do not agree to follow a young man who promises to take you to your location (a scam!). If you need to hire a guide, hire one who is licensed (and know your purchases will include kickbacks to the guide). Be sure to include Djemaa el-Fna during your visit to the souks for some fresh squeezed orange juice and a bit of action, such as snake charmers, locals playing games, and street food vendors. Here are a few of my favorite shops...
Benzarrou Jaafar
01
Tucked into a tiny corner of the medina, this small shop boasts a fabulous assortment of handmade leather slippers in every size, shape and color. Beautiful and well-made. 1 Kissariat Drouje
02
souFiane ZariB 2 Rue HoudHoud, Quartier Majorelle 3 showrooms stock a huge selection of new + vintage rugs. Start with this one by Majorelle Gardens and they can guide you to the other shops. www.soufiane-zarib.com
03 riad yiMa
Restored house turned into a shop and tea room by artist Hassan Hajjaj. Unique items made of recycled African advertisements, flour sacks, metal, and more. A really interesting and unusual place. www.riadyima.com
Valerie Barkowski A longtime resident of Marrakesh from Belgium, Valerie Barkowski has been creating timeless, bespoke home linens for over 20 years, inspired by global cultures and ancestral craft traditions. Her designs are a beautiful example of Moroccan tradition made more livable in today’s homes, and the craftsmanship is impeccable. Her lovely shop offers a sublime selection of gorgeously detailed bed linens, pillows, leather poufs, slippers and more. 142 Arset Aouzel, Dar Bacha www.valeriebarkowski.com
04
Image credit: C Zehnacher Image credit: Delphine Warin
Image credit: Tania Panova
Image credit: Tania Panova
PoPhaM Design
kessy BelDi
Americans Caitlin and Samuel Dowe-Sandes founded this fabulous encaustic tile workshop, handmade of concrete and based in Marrakesh, in 2006. They’ve taken a traditional Moroccan craft and brought it into the 21st century with their bold, modern designs. Ann Sacks is their exclusive distributor in the US. You may visit the Popham Design studio (located outside the city). by appointment.
This glass factory creates mouth blown beldi (traditional Moroccan tea glasses) from 100% recycled glass. These simple, green-tinted beauties are durable and meant for everyday use. I use mine as juice glasses in addition to the traditional mint tea. This forward-thinking company is extremely focused on sustainability. Owner, Bouchaid Harmouzi, also owns the www.pophamdesign.com/home Azalai Life Experience (see Inspired By www.annsacks.com/inspiration/meet-our-makers-popham Nature on page 32). Lot 365 Sidi Ghanem, Route de Safi (main showroom)& La Terrasse des Epices, 15 Sou, Cherifia, Sidi Abdelaziz (small shop in the medina) www.kessybeldi.com
l’art
Du
Bain
Lovely handmade organic olive oil soaps scented with honey, eucalyptus, mint and orange blossom, among others. You can find scrubs and clays for the hammam as well. This company was originally founded in Marrakesh, but they also have a shop in Nantes, France. 13 Souk el Badine, Medina
MustaPha Blaoui Welcome to Aladdin’s cave! Wander through rooms chock full of Moroccan rugs, furniture, lanterns and interesting treasures. 144 Rue Bab Doukkala
le ParaDis
Du
thé
Small shop packed to the gills with gleaming metal Moroccan teapots in a multitude of shapes, sizes and designs. Sip mint tea while you attempt to decide which delightful teapot to bring home. I love using mine (and couldn’t decide on only one!). Souk el Henna, 73 Kharrazine el Bali
R E S TA U R A N T S granD Café
De la
Poste
A heritage property, it was built in the ’20’s and became a renowned café as well as a post office. The jazzy, clubby old world ambience feels a bit like you’ve stepped back in time. www.en.grandcafedelaposte.restaurant
noMaD Located in Spice Square, Nomad is a chic spot to enjoy lunch or dinner on the rooftop, while taking in the views across the rooftops of the medina. The menu is Moroccan and international and quite delicious. In the evening, lanterns are lit and you can watch the sun set behind the Atlas Mountains in the distance. 1 Derb Aarjane (in Spice Square) www.nomadmarrakech.com
la terrasse
Des
esPiCes
A hot spot in bustling spice square where you can take a break and relax with a drink or a meal of Moroccan and international fare. 15, Souk Cherifia, Sidi Abdelaziz www.terrassedesepices.com
STAY
The range of accommodation is vast in Marrakesh. Many old riads (Moroccan homes with interior courtyards) have been restored to their former glory and turned into boutique hotels, exuding a fusion of glamour and tribal chic. They are like staying in jewel boxes! Don’t leave Marrakesh without visiting a hammam (traditional bath house). Many riads/hotels have them on the premises.
riad caMilia Meticulously restored with several absolutely beautiful and thoughtfully furnished rooms and a luxurious courtyard and splash pools. There is a pretty rooftop garden to enjoy and relax, as well as a hammam/spa. I’ve stayed here twice under its previous ownership, and it was a special experience. Our family visited together and our daughters felt like princesses. Located in a quiet corner of the medina. Really lovely. www.riadcamilia.com
el fenn Nine traditional riads combine to form this fabulously dramatic and colorful bohemian hotel. Explore flower-filled courtyards, lantern-lit pathways, hidden nooks, a fine collection of contemporary art, a plethora of plunge pools and a huge, delightful rooftop terrace on which to enjoy fine meals, practice yoga and enjoy wonderful views overlooking Koutoubia Mosque, the medina and the Atlas Mountains beyond. El Fenn is a spectacular place to stay. The rooms are each unique, infused with gorgeous hues and full of very special details, such as handmade beds, marble tubs, hand-stitched camel leather floors and open wood fireplaces. There is a lovely hammam, spa and boutique full of unique local treasures. Enjoy delicious food at the restaurant and bar. Image credit: Kasia Gatkow
Image credit: Signe Bay
Image credit: Daniel Hack
Image credit: Cecile Perrinet
Image credit: David Loftus
Image credit: Cecile Perrinet
Image credit: Daniel Hack
Image credit: MVV
Image credit: Daniel Hack
El Fenn Have a browse at El Fenn’s delightful boutique and enjoy a drink at the charming shop bar. www.el-fenn.com/boutique/
riad due Quaint and atmospheric, this funky, lively and color-splashed riad is infused with charm. It is a soothing spot to relax and take a break from the hustle and bustle of the medina, with its cool plunge pool and sunny terrace. Sleeping at Riad Due is like cozying up in a warm nook. www.riaddue.com
Images credit: Two World Production
riad Bliss Located in the heart of the medina, near the famous Jemaa el-Fna Square, this boutique riad consists of 9 unique rooms decorated in a chic Berber tribal style. The rooftop terrace features a restaurant and juice bar, where you can enjoy views of the bustling city and the Atlas Mountains or practice yoga. Relax in Pure Bliss Spa and Hammam and partake of traditional Moroccan bathing rituals and wellness.
Images credit: John Stapels, Ibiza Mon Amour & Roberto Apuzzo
Images credit: John Stapels, Ibiza Mon Amour & Roberto Apuzzo
I love the earthy tones found inside Riad Bliss. The use of organic materials and locally sourced furnishings and accessories embody a chic Berber vibe of the nearby Sahara Desert and Atlas Mountains. This traditional Moroccan bath is located in the center of the Nomade suite.
Peacock Pavilions
On the outskirts of Marrakesh lies the lovely Peacock Pavilions, an artisanal boutique hotel built on an olive grove by Maryam Montague and her husband, Chris Redecke. They often host yoga or art retreats, weddings, and design safaris, led by Maryam. There are lovely gardens, a glorious pool and a movie theater, as well as a dining tent, among several other amenities. The hotel supports Project Soar, Maryam’s non-profit organization which empowers local Moroccan girls. The brand’s mantra is “be good, make good and do good.” Read more in the section “In the Workshop With” where I interviewed Maryam and learned more about Peacock Pavilions, as well as her other projects. www.peacockpavilions.com Image credit: Maryam Montague
Image credit: Maryam Montague
Image credit: Natalie Opocensky
Image credit: Peacock Pavilions
Image credit: Natalie Opocensky
Image credit: Vik M Photography
Image credit: The Nomadic People
Image credit: Peacock Pavil-
Where TO sTay...
OUT OF TOWN
Kasbah Bab Ourika
For a quick escape, head to the lush foothills of the Atlas Mountains to the lovely Kasbah Bab Ourika for a night or two. It’s nestled on a hill in the beautiful Ourika Valley, less than an hour from Marrakesh. You can take a walk through the neighboring village, enjoy a guided hike in the surrounding hills or simply relax in the pretty gardens and take in the views. Each room has its own unique character. You can enjoy olive wood fires in your room in the evenings. Beatriz Maximo (PR and marketing director) is from Portugal but has lived in Marrakesh for 21 years. She is often on site, with her devoted little pug, Poppy, and is delightful and helpful. Staff can also help arrange tours to the desert, excursions to mountain villages and local guided hikes. www.kasbahbabourika.com
Images credit: Beatriz Maximo & Alain Keohone
Image credit: Kasbah Bab Ourika
This sweet man was a pleasure to chat with and was so proud to have his photo taken.
INSPIRED BY NATURE Roughly the size of the United States and straddling several countries in North Africa, the Sahara Desert is an incredible place to experience the largest hot desert in the world. 2.5 million people inhabit the Sahara (about 1 person per square mile). There are several places throughout Morocco where you can take a desert safari, riding camels or driving in 4x4’s to desert camps. These points of entry are several hours outside Marrakesh, but well worth the effort to get there. When our family visited, our guide told us his grandmother lived a nomadic life in the desert. He and his family would receive word on occasion, from people returning to his town from the desert, on her current whereabouts. It is quite amazing to stand among these undulating dunes that stretch much further than the eye can see, in this patch of Africa.
Image credit: Azalai Experience
My friend, Nico, who spent 8 years living and working in Morocco, highly recommends the Azalai Life Experience, a company offering luxurious accommodations in the Sahara Desert, as well as on the coast. All are opportunities for guests to be fully immersed in nature in this beautiful country. Bouchaid Harmouzi, a man passionate for sustainability and the environment, is at the helm of Azalai life Experience. He utilizes eco-friendly practices, such as recycling water, using only local materials and recycled wood for construction. www.azalailifeexperience.com
The lodge is located in the south of Morocco in the world’s largest palm desert, 9 hours by car from Marrakesh (or a short flight to Zagora and 1-hour drive). if you have the time, it is interesting to drive through the Moroccan landscape and villages, and enjoy a picnic on the way. Perhaps you want to experience sleeping in luxury tents. The camp is a few hours away (via 4x4) in the Chigaga dunes.
Image credit: Azalai Experience
The idea of the desert camp is for guests to feel totally disconnected from the modern world, as desert nomads lived 2,000 years ago, completely immersed in nature. It is literally in the middle of nowhere, under a dark sky, lit only by starlight. There are no other camps nearby, so it is a very private and special experience. The beach cottage and camp are situated on a beautiful, wild beach near Oualidia, approximately 3 hours from Marrakesh, on the coast. The chef prepares meals from the vegetable garden on the property and fresh locally-caught fish.
Images credit: Azalai Experience
IN THE WORKSHOP WITH... Maryam Montague is a humanitarian, hotelier, author, and expert on Moroccan design. She and her husband, Chris , have lived in Marrakesh for nearly 20 years and raised their children there, who are now attending universities abroad. Image credit: Christine Johnson
MARYAM MONTAGUE
In the ancient city of Marrakesh lives a remarkable woman, the doyenne of “tribal chic.” Maryam Montague wears multiple hats… social entrepreneur and humanitarian, feminist, hotelier, traveler, collector, blogger, and author of “My Marrakesh,” a fabulous design book. Born in Egypt to an Iranian mother and American father, she was raised in Tunisia and then New York. After obtaining her master’s degree in international affairs she spent many years working for NGO’s abroad. After marrying her husband, architect Christ Redecke, they started their global adventure as a couple and moved to Nepal. After a stint in Namibia, they took the opportunity to move to Morocco, settling in Marrakesh where, after starting and raising a family and launching their two children to university in different countries, they still remain, nearly 20 years later. Maryam’s mantra is “Be good, make good, do good.” I am truly inspired by her passions and her ability to juggle all that she does, as well as the fact that she lives by this mantra in all facets of her life. I knew she was the one I wanted to interview in this issue of INSPIRED, and I was thrilled when she agreed to squeeze me into her extremely busy schedule.
It was a delight to speak with Maryam and learn about her fascinating life and all the various pots on the fire she somehow manages to stir. She was so generous with her time, and we had a long, wonderful conversation in which she shared a WEALTH of insight and information. It was really challenging for me to take 32 pages of our transcribed interview and pare it down to this! She is passionate about what she does and is truly INSPIRING!! I divided this interview into 3 slices of Maryam’s life… her humanitarian work, her boutique hotel, Peacock Pavilions, and her passion for design and Morocco.
What brought you to Morocco nearly 20 years ago and inspired you to put down roots in Marrakesh?
Most people are born into their homes and some people choose them, and so that was really my case with Morocco. I just found a place that I felt really married the cultures that I had grown up with -- my Persian culture, as well as more interesting contemporary aspects, because of Morocco’s colonial history and its proximity to Europe. It’s been a really surprisingly wonderful place to raise a family and to set up a life that’s a little more adventurous, perhaps, than the typical.
Be Good Make Good do Good Image credit: Pamela Jones
h u M a n i ta r i a n You are a self-described social entrepreneur. How did you become involved in humanitarian work and what types of projects do you focus on in Morocco as well as Africa/elsewhere as a whole? My dad is also in humanitarian aid and ran the Egypt office of CARE. We grew up in a family of service, being a very important value for us. My dad would take us with him when he went on assignment during the summers, and I just thought the world was such an amazing place. I was really determined to try to find a way to be able to make some kind of social impact and to be able to travel. So I set my path that way, deciding to study international relations and earn a master’s degree in International Affairs. I went on to work for an international NGO where I was for many years, before I became a management consultant.
You founded your nonprofit organization, Project Soar, to empower girls in 2013. Tell me a bit about it and why you decide to spearhead this project. Because my background is in humanitarian aid, that’s always been a very important part of everything that I do. When we decided to move to Marrakesh, we wanted to build a place of our own. Originally, we were looking to renovate a riad. Ultimately, we decided that we wanted to build our own home. At that time, I was working a lot in war zones, and I just felt like as much as I love Marrakesh, the city is so bustling, I felt like I needed someplace that was a little quieter, that was more of a sanctuary, and I really wanted to live on an olive grove. We found this little grove, and when we went to buy it, the City of Marrakesh said that if we wanted to buy a piece of land that size, we would need to have an investment project.
What is unique about the structure that makes Project Soar effective/successful? We created a framework, which is called Project Soar-In-A-Box, which is our scalable system, and contains all the tools that you need to empower a squad of 20 teen girls. We’re currently in 48 locations in Morocco, we’ve provided 120,000 hours of empowerment, we’ve trained 174 women facilitators. We’ve now expanded to Uganda and we’re in negotiations right now to expand further in Africa, and so I think that really building to scale has been important for us. The Project Soar girl has a pretty unique profile. On average, she’s living on less than a dollar a day, so she comes from a really marginalized background. These girls are on this generational cusp where there’s so much potential for them, and we really want to help partner with the families to invest in these girls, so they are able to move ahead. We believe that this is not only a question of social justice for girls that shouldn’t be held back, but it is a real way out of poverty. So, rather than doing for girls, we are really investing in them, so they can chart their own paths. Then we have so many more scientists and journalists and mathematicians and business owners, to help build the economy together. So that’s really been our principle at Project Soar -- investing in teen girls to be the leaders of today and tomorrow.
So we kind of looked at each other and I said, “I’m a humanitarian aid worker… what are we going to do?” And so we decided that we would build Marrakesh’s “Do Good” hotel and that we would invest what we made into the cause, and we decided that our main interest really was teen girls. So that’s how Project Soar was born. Image credit: Anass Walidi
p e ac o c k pav i l i o n s Image credit: Vik M Photography
Oooh, what are some of the items you collect? We collect a lot of symbols and talismans, amulets from everywhere. A lot of hands, eyes, bones and all kinds of skulls. I collect all kinds of nests and pods, as I’m really fascinated by nature. We collect everything from tribal jewelry to Afghan hats. We have a very large embroidery and textile collection. It’s very rare that I buy new things. I’m usually on the road for work so much, and I’m always looking for things that are related to magic and the supernatural. I also love religious icons. So everything that contains some sort of leap of faith really intrigues me.
When we were moving around, I was working with the Burmese government in exile in India, but I was living in Nepal. When I traveled to India, I would buy Indian doors, antiques, tables made out of horse carts, and I would ship them back to a storage container in the US. I told my husband, “One day, we will have a home and I will bring all of this back and I will use it.” And that is what we did. It’s all in our place, and that’s a good thing about having a small hotel. If you look at it, it doesn’t really look like a hotel, it looks just like your cool friend’s house filled with unusual artifacts. And I think that’s what You and your architect husband designed and built makes it kind of special here. Morocco is so known for its a stylish home and boutique hotel from scratch, comincredible design, but we didn’t want it to look like one big prised of three pavilions on an olive grove on the out- swoop through the souks, we really wanted it to be more skirts of Marrakesh. What an ambitious undertaking of a visual diary of our travels and for it to be meaningful in a foreign country! Can you tell me more about that? in terms of our own life story. It’s a hand-built property, an artisanal build, so it was a slow, intense build project with a team of about 25 people who built it over four years. My husband is an architect, so he designed it and actually became the foreman on the job. There is a dining tent, yoga pavilion, an outdoor cinema, a gym, a little secret garden (perfect for ceremonies), an outdoor dining space with walls made of hedges... there are quite a few structures on the property. We designed it to really respect the Moroccan architecture, but kind of pare it down a little bit, so it’s just a bit cleaner and really a place to showcase some of our collections. We collect all kinds of things, and we really wanted to have the possibility of displaying them, kind of like one big cabinet of curiosities.
Image credit: Vik M Photography
Tell me about how you approached the design of your home and the Pavilions
What do you find most fulfilling about owning/running Peacock Pavilions?
I didn’t start with the structure and then think, “Okay, what do I need for this place?” I always believe that if you find beautiful things, you will find a place for them, and so that’s what we did with our place. What was important to us is that with the Pavilions, rather than a guest house where you have rooms one next to another, we would have these different spaces, which would have a lot of possibilities for living in them.
It’s definitely our clients. We have the best clients. I think the people who are attracted to the property are either interested in design, which we’re passionate about, or they’re interested in wellness, which we’re also passionate about. But we really wanted to be very culture forward. We genuinely spent time experimenting with the design culture and the food culture, we do Moroccan wine tastings and we help plan every facet of a guest’s trip. So when they leave, they feel very full. I want people to really We have multiple domes on the property, so you really appreciate the complexity of this country and to be able have that lofty feeling when your ceiling is 20 feet high. We to share that. did a lot of art on the ceilings, which is common in Morocco, because the most beautiful surface should always be the one that’s closest to God. We actually really stripped back the color so that, with so much going on, there is still a feeling of serenity within the space and you can really see the art. Of course, Morocco is so well known for all of its vibrant colors and all of its amazing patterns, but they do require some thinking, so it doesn’t feel chaotic. It’s one thing to go and see it in a beautiful palace, but to live with it, you just have to be a little judicious in the use.
What do you love most about your home and Peacock Pavilions? I would say I love my gardens. That is so important to me. And it’s been so important during the pandemic for me to be able to really be in nature. We are in an olive grove where we have about 200 olive trees, as well as many other kinds of trees that we planted. We planted hundreds of rose bushes, jasmine and bougainvillea. It’s so wonderful to see the garden change and come alive. One of my great pleasures is to get up very early in the morning and go out and prune the roses. It’s my own form of walking meditation. Image credit: Maryam Montague
You clearly have a designer’s eye, the innate ability to look at something and see what it can become. You wrote and photographed a gorgeous book, Marrakesh by Design, which is such a feast for the eyes and certainly inspires wanderlust! How did you hone your design aesthetic? I grew up with parents who are very passionate about global design. My parents traveled a great deal and collected things. I think, for me, that always felt really curious and fascinating, and inspired my own aesthetic. Because I work on social justice issues (prisoner rights and human rights), my day job can be really intense and sometimes really tough. So I started a blog many years ago that really was about Moroccan design and my own kind of quest for beauty. I think that was a way to kind of heal myself from working in the field of human rights. I wanted very deliberately not to talk about my work. I wanted to understand more about Moroccan design. So I set out to learn more and was fortunate enough to have Artisan Books reach out to me about doing a book on Moroccan design.
I know you love finding and developing relationships with artisans. How has that influenced your passion and appreciation for Moroccan design, art and craft? I spent afternoons with the Maalems (masters), learning about their craft, how they worked and what principles were important to them. That was a really lovely extension of what I was learning. I think more than anything, I’m a student of design. I’m still learning so much about Moroccan design and I always seek that everywhere I go, whether it’s Uganda or Hong Kong or Rwanda. On my travels, I’m always trying to get to the source of the design and meet with the makers so I can learn. I feel like when I buy something, I really want to understand what it is, not only what its function is, but where it came from and why it is that way.
What is it about Moroccan design that you think is attractive to other parts of the world? I think Moroccan design is all about these incredible architectural shapes, these very saturated colors, these complex patterns. It’s really an iconic design. I think it’s a place that has a culture unto itself. It’s not aspiring to be like another culture, it’s aspiring to be more of itself.
With so many passions and interests, how do you find balance in life? I’m trying to live more of an essentialist lifestyle, which means really trying to focus on the things that feel most essential to you. So that could be your family, your friends, or your cause. I use a lot of techniques to keep me on track, so I have a series of rituals that I’ve been practicing for years. I’ve been meditating daily for over 30 years. I use the Pomodoro Technique, which is a time management technique. I also listen to the Brain.fm app, which is all about improving your neural pathways, so you can get into a flow state. I swear by the Lion’s Mane mushroom elixirs, which help improve your ability to focus. And I just try not to take on too much because there are so many things I’m already invested in. I have worked with a life coach for years, which has been enormously helpful.
Your brand is socially responsible and your mantra is, “We believe that all products and experiences should be good, make good, and do good.” What inspires you to keep yourself aligned to these values? I think one of the reasons why it continues to inspire me is that I live so close to my cause. It’s not only for the good that you do, it’s how you feel about yourself. I knew growing up in a family of service, it was very important to us, but I loved the way it made me feel. I think it’s a very beautiful thing that one can do... to do a little good.
Maryam has her own online boutique, the M Montague Souk, where a percentage of each purchase goes to help support Project Soar. There is a wonderful collection of curated vintage rugs, wedding blankets, cushions and home accessories, including beautiful brass and nickel jewelry-quality hooks, which are lovely to hang your towels on www.mmontaguesouk.com/shop
Learn more about Project Soar visit www.projectsoar.org Stay at Peacock Pavilions visit www.peacockpavilions.com Follow Maryam on Instagram @maryammontague
Maryam’s favorite re!aurants
La Mamounia I love to have a drink in their gardens because it’s just my happy space. www.mamounia.com Avenue Bab Jdid Salt They will cook good Moroccan food for you to order. It’s a more private experience. www.salt-marrakech.com Berima ground Floor, 108 Rue de Berima Le Petit Cornichon For really good French-Moroccan combination food, it’s the kind of place that people linger for hours. www.lepetitcornichon.ma 27, Rue Moulay Ali Le Palace I love to go there for a drink. They usually have a jazz singer. It’s a lounge for grown-ups. Avenue Echouhada
Highly recommended
places to visit outside Marrakesh
Cactus Thiemann An elaborate cactus garden, the largest in Africa. It’s absolutely incredible (more than 150 varieties of cacti). I’ve been learning about and loving cactus. www.atlasobscura.com/places/cactus-thiemann Palm Orchids My favorite organic nursery. The owner has introduced something like 30,000 species to the country. I just love to go and wander there as a form of meditation. Oualidia A little coastal town on a beautiful lagoon, sort of off the beaten path. A great place to go if you’re a foodie, to partake of the freshest oysters and crabs as big as your plate. Val d’Argan A vineyard with its own set of wines. I really love food and wine. You’d never know how much wine is produced in Morocco! www.valdargan.com
Maryam’s
favorite shops
Maroc’n Roll Owned by a former designer for Yves Saint Laurent. Hand-painted bags and other very cool things. www.marocnroll1432.com 6 Rue Houdhoud, Majorelle Quarter Magic souk/herbal souk It’s fun to have your own talisman made. You can get a brass amulet and they will put everything in there for you (hair of a lion, bits of ore or minerals) depending on what you’re looking for. Because I’m so passionate about magic, it’s very fun to experience this. Jewels An all-women atelier (with locations in Marrakesh & Santa Fe), Jewels has created her own technique for beading and her talismans are incredible. www.jewelsarts.com Rue Hassan 2, Gueliz Immeuble Hamdane, 5th Floor, #50 Valerie Barkowski She has such beautiful linens and towels, all of those really kind of pared-down but very high quality everyday luxuries. See “Flight Plan” section for more information.
Jewels Atlelier
Image credit: Anne Staveley
Image credit: Atelier Landon
Atelier Landon Frenchwoman Laurence Landon crafts beautiful brass vessels for candles, lighting fixtures and furniture. She does a lot of custom work as well. Her artisans are amazing. I find that I really love what happens when you have a blend between western and Moroccan. There is something new that comes out of that alchemy that is so good, which makes it really livable and easier to incorporate into your home. The new candle series are handmade by Moroccan master artisans. We have many of Laurence’s lights at Peacock Pavilions. Once the candles are burned, you have a gorgeous vessel. The craftsmanship is incredible! www.atelierlandon.com 276, Industrial Quarter, Marrakesh
BRING IT HOME Do you sometimes find yourself purchasing items on your travels, then unpacking them at home and wondering why you bought them and where you’ll actually place them? Moroccan design is so dynamic, beautiful and intoxicating, you can’t visit the souks without snapping up beauties to bring home. A few items I love to bring back from Morocco for my clients include the following. Vintage Moroccan rugs look fantastic in the homes I design. They are so cozy, each is unique and completely one-of-a-kind and I love that there is a story behind every single one. The designs are often fairly simple and easy to incorporate into most homes when you want to inject some color and warmth. The wool of vintage rugs can not be compared to the newly woven rugs of imported wool you can find all over Morocco. Vintage wool is silky soft and has a different feel to it.
Vintage handira (wedding blankets) make great pillows and look fantastic strewn across the foot of a bed. The draped sparkle and add just the right touch of chic and glamour, yet the nubby handwoven wool adds an earthy, organic element.
I’m fond of the dynamic encaustic cement tiles made in Marrakesh by Popham Design. I clad a laundry room in their” Paccha Honeycomb” design, giving the room a punch of pattern and color.
Pierced metal lanterns are lightweight and easy to ship home. They add a lovely, magical ambience to any interior, as the light filters through the metalwork designs and reflects on the walls and ceiling. Designs range from more elaborate, traditional designs to simpler, modern forms.
THE LOADED TRUNK Springbar is a small company, based in Salt Lake City, that has been making canvas products, cut and sewn in their Salt Lake shop since 1944. Jack Kirkham’s Springbar® tent, in production for nearly 60 years, has a cult following worldwide. I love companies with a story, a great brand and strong ethos, and this company is just that... Jack Kirkham purchased the AAA Tent & Awning shop in 1944, where he dove headfirst into the canvas business, making goods for outfitters, ranchers, herders and miners. In the 1950’s, when camping for pleasure gained popularity among Americans, Jack put more focus on building tents. He thoughtfully spent time developing new tent construction ideas, until he invented the Springbar Tent in 1961 and later changed the company name to Kirkham’s Outdoor Products. Last year, the late Jack’s son, Jack Jr, partnered with Dwell Outdoors and the name of the company changed to Springbar®, where Jack Jr continues to work as Lead Tent Designer. I really enjoyed visiting the Springbar factory and chatting with co-owner, Pace Measom, who was gracious enough to guide around the factory. Little did he know, when I stopped by the warehouse last spring to pick up a tent, the can of worms he opened when he asked this curious gal if I wanted to have a peek in the factory. Did I ever! This kind of place is right up my alley… getting a glimpse of the process and people behind the scenes. I returned this fall for a more in depth tour and was able to learn more about this fantastic company -- and I saw my tent actually being made, which was a thrill. It was a hive of activity. About 15 employees work in the factory itself, cutting canvas and sewing a variety of tents in a range of standard colors. They often make small batches of multiple color combinations, perhaps ten tents at a time, signed by the maker, and when they’re gone they’re gone. Springbar also makes hot tents, which are equipped for their folding stainless steel Winnerwell stoves, to stay toasty during cold weather camping.
Image credit: Dan Ransom
The pole sets are also made in SLC and the canvas is finished at the best canvas finisher in Georgia. The quality of Springbar’s products is stellar, as they quite literally set the bar quite high. Currently making approximately 1000 tents per year, they are truly a small boutique tent company, focusing on durability, quality and design.
To keep up with demand, Springbar also has a factory in China where they make certain products (the Highline and Classic Jack series), as white safari-style tents are very popular with customers in Japan, Taiwan, Thailand and South Korea. Springbar has plans to open a small shop early next year in their factory/warehouse space. www.springbar.com
Image credit: Isabelle Robison
I snagged a “Traveler” tent to take glamping in the sand dunes of central Utah.
Pendleton
Pendleton’s 100% virgin wool Bridger Stripe Blanket and Scout Stripe Pillow are both new releases from this iconic American wool company. I’m a big fan of Pendleton! www.pendleton-usa.com
G"d & Well Supply Co.
Good & Well Supply Company makes 100% vegan & 100% eco-friendly candles, soaps and other body products, as well as adventure-themed gifts. I especially like their National Park line of candles. They smell wonderful and are great to take camping or when you’re at home and need a dose of the great outdoors. www.goodandwellsupplyco.com
Byer of Maine was founded in 1880 in Bangor, Maine by a Russian immigrant family. They continue to produce traditional cots, wood and canvas furniture, among other goods. I love the wood and canvas camp cots as well as the butterfly chairs and folding table from their Pangean Collection. www.byerofmaine.com
Image credit: Isabelle Robison
Playli! “Deb”
Souad Massi
“Imik Si Mik - Remastered” Hindi Zahra
“La Mamounia” Moroccan Spirit
“Passe Le Temps” Souad Massi
“Beautiful Tano - Remastered” Hindi Zahra
“Samira Meskina” Souad Massi
“Evasion”
Moahmed Rouane
“Fascination - Radio Edit” Hindi Zahra
“Fehmini” Douzi
“Oursoul - Unplugged” Hindi Zahra
“Song for Maltan (Klik & Frik Remix)” Hassan Ben Jaafar
“Silence - Radio Edit” Hindi Zahra
“Lik”
“Zina”
Oum
Babylone
.........
The first time we visited Marrakech, we had a jewel box of a riad all to ourselves, and songs by Souad Massi wafted throughout during our visit. Although from neighboring Algeria, her music always transports me back to Morocco. Along with a mix of Moroccan artists and a hint of jazz, this compilation forms a lovely north African vibe.
listen
to this on spotiFy!
WHAT’S BREWING Moroccan Mint Tea
Served in beldi, mint tea (aka Berber whiskey), is a staple in daily Moroccan life. It is typically made with fresh spearmint leaves and Chinese gunpowder tea. It is a ritual that takes place often throughout the day, and is offered when visiting someone’s home, along with freshly baked bread, with a meal or when haggling over carpets or other goods. I enjoyed a tisane on my last visit brewed with fresh mint and verveine (lemon verbena). It was lovely. Since I grow both plants in my garden, I make this concoction often and love serving it in the tea service I bought on my last trip to Marrakesh. The Moroccan Msemmen (small square, layered pancakes) are a cozy treat to enjoy with honey and orange marmalade, at tea time.
TASTE THIS
MOROCCAN CHICKEN TAGINE
A visit to Morocco is usually accompanied by meals of succulent tagines, tasty stew-like meals baked in a uniquely shaped clay vessel with a base and coneshaped lid, also called a tagine. There is a wide variety of tagines, often made with poultry, meat or vegetarian, laden with spices, dried fruit, preserved lemon and olives. The cone-shaped lid returns the condensation to the pot and keeps the food moist. I love this version made with chicken thighs. You can smell it as it bakes from outside the house… utterly tantalizing!
RAS EL HANOUT
(Moroccan Spice Blend)
1 Tablespoon ground coriander 1 Tablespoon ground ginger 2 teaspoons chili powder 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons paprika 2 teaspoons ground black pepper 2teaspoons turmeric powder 1-1/2 teaspoons ground cardamom 1-1/2 teaspoons ground mace 1-1/2 teaspoons ground nutmeg 3/4 teaspoon ground anise seed 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper 3/4 teaspoon ground fennel 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves 1/2 teaspoon lavender buds
CHICKEN TAGINE Serves 6
3 Tbsp Ras el Hanout* 6 chicken thighs (bone in, skin on) 5 garlic cloves, minced Juice from 1 lemon 2 onions, sliced 2 med sweet potatoes (or 1 large), peeled & cut into bite- size chunks 2 handfuls prunes (whole,pitted) ½ c mixed olives (green & black) 1 preserved lemon, peel sliced (pulp removed & discarded)** 3/4 cup chicken broth Parsley for garnish Sliced almonds, toasted, for garnish
Rub thighs with Ras el Hanout. Add lemon and garlic, mix and marinate (1-4 hours). Pour a few tablespoons of olive oil into the base of a tagine. Place sliced onions over oil. In cast iron frying pan, brown thighs 2-3 min per side. Place on top of onions in tagine (including marinade sauce). If you don’t have a tagine, you can use the same cast iron pan (remove chicken, add onions to bottom of pan, place chicken on top of onions). On top of chicken, add sweet potatoes, prunes, olives and sliced peel of preserved lemon. Pour chicken broth over all. Cover with top of tagine (or lid, if using cast iron pan) and bake at 375° F for 45 minutes, until chicken is done and sweet potatoes are tender. Serve over couscous and garnish with parsley and sliced almonds. *Ras el Hanout (an aromatic Moroccan spice blend) is available at specialty food shops. If you have trouble locating it, you can make your own, using a spice grinder **Preserved lemons can be found at specialty shops or you can easily make your own.
www.jonnarobison.com
Concept by Jonna Robison Produced by Sophie Robison Authored by Jonna Robison All photographs (except where noted) by Jonna Robison
