Maine magazine December 2017 by Maine Magazine

December 2017

THE

SUGARLOAF ISSUE

Let Berlin City take you places.

191 Riverside Street

Across from Maine Mall

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NAHB 50+ Housing Council

Highland Green “Best Integration of Nature & Landscaping” 2014 International Builders’ Show

The premier 55+ Active Adult Lifestyle community. Right here in Maine.

HighlandGreenLifestyle.com

7 Evergreen Circle, Topsham, Maine | 1-866-854-1200 / 1-207-725-4549

You Tube

ÂŠ2017 Porsche Cars North America, Inc. Porsche recommends seat belt usage and observance of all traffic laws at all times.

The status quo, lapped again. A near seven-decade disdain for the expected continues with the new Panamera. Redesigned inside and out, it breathes new life into classic Porsche design cues. More powerful, more advanced, and more luxuriously appointed, the new Panamera is not just a new car, but a new benchmark. Porsche. There is no substitute.

The new Panamera 4S.

Morong-Falmouth 187 US Route 1 Falmouth, Maine 04105 Tel. 207-781-4020 www.morong-falmouth.porschedealer.com

MARTHA BURKERT

C R A B A P P L E B R A N C H E S | 3 6 ” X 3 6 ” | O I L O N PA N E L

154 Middle Street, Portland, Maine | 207.956.7105

The Forevermark Tribute™ Collection

FOR ALL T H AT YO U ARE A diamond for each of your qualities

www . days j e w e le r s . co m ™

St. Mary’s Regional Medical Center Welcomes

New England Foot & Ankle Specialists, one of New England’s leading centers for stateof-the-art treatment of all foot and ankle conditions, is now part of St. Mary’s Center for Orthopaedics.

Patient Centered Orthopaedic Care Our patient-centered approach to orthopaedic care considers the impact of treatment on every aspect of your life including work, family or recreation. Together, our team of experts – orthopaedic surgeons, therapists, nurses, primary care providers and others – works with you to achieve your personal goals through an individualized care plan. Our Specialists • Gregory Pomeroy, MD • Jessica Faught, MD • Lanny Rudner, MD – Fellow Visit us at our NEW location at 117 Auburn Street in Portland or call 207-797-4791 to make an appointment.

Center for Orthopaedics A Member of Covenant Health

New England Foot & Ankle Specialists • 117 Auburn St., Portland, Maine • 207-797-4791 • stmarysmaine.com/nefas

E X PA N D YO U R

possibilities

Pella® Architect Series ® contemporary windows and patio doors provide the sleek lines and modern motifs that highlight expansive views. This new addition to the Pella of fering invites wide-open spaces to live at the hear t of your design.

contents The Sugarloaf Way 056

A new competition center celebrates community on the Sugarloaf slopes. by Dr. Lisa Belisle | Photography by Nicole Wolf

Looking Down the Path 070

Director Carolann Ouellette maps the next steps for Maine Huts and Trails. by Susan Axelrod | Photography by Nicole Wolf

Going for the Good 078

Competition is fierce at the WinterKids Downhill 24â&#x20AC;&#x201D;especially for raising money. by Susan Axelrod | Photography by Matt Cosby

Milestone Miler 088

In its 35th year, the oldest continuously run marathon in the state is famously downhill, along the Carrabassett River to Kingfield. by Sandy Lang | Photography by Peter Frank Edwards

Welcome Home 102

Two longtime Sugarloafers design a rustic yet contemporary getaway for entertaining, future grandchildren, and two sweet Great Danes. by Katy Kelleher | Photography by Erin Little

on the cover

Jen DeRose, managing editor of Maine Home+Design, hikes to the summit of Burnt Mountain for backcountry skiing. Photography by C.A. Smith Photography

on this page

Robby Kelley of Redneck Racing finishing fourth in the slalom at the U.S. Alpine Championships at Sugarloaf. Photography by Nicole Wolf

THERE + THEN 024 Going out, giving back: supporting nonprofits + local businesses in the vital work they do year-round SOCIAL MEDIA 033 Sharing memories of the state sparked by social media NEW + NOTEWORTHY 035 What’s happening around the state 48 HOURS

038 Carrabassett Valley in winter and summer

by Andrea King and Susan Axelrod

A-LIST 052 Sugarloaf Glades

by Brittany Cost Photography by C.A. Smith Photography

LOVE MAINE RADIO

with Dr. Lisa Belisle Kevin Browne

067

Photography by Sean Thomas

EAT 114 The Coplin Dinner House by Karen Watterson Photography by Nicole Wolf

EAT BLOGS

122 Urban Sugar Donuts + Rolling Fatties

by Karen Watterson Photography by Nicole Wolf

CAPTURE

Joe Gambino

056

152

EDITOR’S NOTE 019 STAFF NOTE 021 CONTRIBUTORS 023 WORDS FROM OUR READERS 029 EVENTS 030

Because youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve earned this.

Spirit prices are the same in stores all over Maine.

Live well, drink responsibly. mainespirits.com

Coming Summer 2018

Freedom Boat Club of Maine Two Locations ~ Sebago Lakes Region & Casco Bay

Enjoy affordable, maintenance-free boating with the nation’s largest boat club. Multiple, affordable membership plans available with unlimited boat usage PLUS access to the club’s fleet of boats in 140+ locations in the U.S. and Canada.

Find Your Freedom

infoMaine@FreedomBoatClub.com • FreedomBoatClub.com

Dr. Lisa Belisle, Katy Kelleher, Sandy Lang, Karen Watterson STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER | Sean Thomas STAFF VIDEOGRAPHER | Lamia Lazrak PHOTOGRAPHERS |

Matt Cosby, Dave Dostie, Peter Frank Edwards, Erin Little, C.A. Smith Photography, Nicole Wolf COVER PHOTOGRAPHER | C.A. Smith Photography PHOTO RETOUCHING | Tripp Harrington CIRCULATION | Sarah Lynn ART COLLECTOR MAINE |

Laura A. Bryer, Jack Leonardi, Taylor McCafferty, Kendra McDonald, Emma Wilson THE BRAND COMPANY |

urban dwellings

INTERIORS

• DESIGN

• OBJECTS

Chris Kast, Melissa Pearson, Mali Welch LOVE MAINE RADIO |

Spencer Albee, Dr. Lisa Belisle, Brittany Cost, Paul Koenig, Casey Lovejoy, Shelbi Wassick MAINE HOME+DESIGN |

Jen DeRose, Heidi Kirn OLD PORT |

Susan Axelrod, Kate Seremeth

Shop our favorite gifts for every occasion this holiday season

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Chief Executive Officer | Kevin Thomas Chief Operating Officer | Andrea King Chief Financial Officer | Jack Leonardi

118 CONGRESS STREET PORTLAND, MAINE URBAN-DWELL.COM 207-780-6136

designing for the individual. all inquiries welcome.

Maine is published twelve times each year by Maine Media Collective LLC Editorial and subscription information: phone 207.772.3373 | fax 888.836.6715 16 Middle Street | Suite 501 | Portland | Maine | 04101 Opinions expressed in articles or advertisements, unless otherwise noted, do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher, staff, or advisory board. Every effort has been made to ensure that all information presented in this issue is accurate, and neither Maine nor any of its staff is responsible for omissions or information that has been misrepresented to the magazine. Copyright © 2017, Maine Media Collective LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission, in writing, from the publisher. Printed in the U.S.A. themainemag.com

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EDITOR’S NOTE Photography by Chelsea Ellis

The most humbling moment during my third time on skis and first time at Sugarloaf was not tumbling down an illuminated trail in subzero temperatures as every other skier sped past my tangle of limbs, skis, and poles. It was earlier in the day when a group of waist-high children glided around me on their way to the Double Runner lift, impatient with the speed of my stilted shuffles. Making matters worse, I was wearing a timing chip on my leg as part of the WinterKids Downhill 24 charity ski-athon, so people kept waving me to the front of the line, thinking I was attempting to compete for the most number of runs. Our team finished comfortably in 42nd place (out of 46). Despite all of that, it was one of my favorite memories from last winter. Skiing under the lights—it’s the only time all year that Sugarloaf has night skiing—was exciting, but the best part of the experience was the challenge (for me that meant progressing

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from green circle trails to blue squares). More experienced skiers at the WinterKids Downhill 24 had their own set of challenges (“Going for the Good,” p. 78). Teams of ten competed for various awards, including highest fundraising total and fastest individual run. After the slopes closed for the year, 1,600 runners descended on Carrabassett Valley for the Sugarloaf Marathon and 15K, including Olympic marathon champion Joan Benoit Samuelson (“Milestone Miler,” p. 88). Benoit Samuelson, running her first marathon in Maine, competed for a greater cause than finishing 26.2 miles. She joined marathoner Michael Westphal, who has Parkinson’s disease, to raise money for the Michael J. Fox Foundation for Parkinson’s Research. In March, just a few weeks after the WinterKids Downhill 24, Sugarloaf hosted a different level of competition: the U.S.

Alpine Championships (“The Sugarloaf Way,” p. 56). It was the sixth time Sugarloaf hosted the event but the first since the opening of the Bill and Joan Alfond Competition Center, which served as the home base for the nation’s top skiers during the event, along with athletes of all ability levels throughout the winter. Whether you’re competing against Olympians on the slopes or in a road race, or you’re just trying to get down the mountain without wiping out, I hope you don’t shy away from challenges. As I learned, eventually you’ll make it back to the lifts.

Paul Koenig Managing Editor pkoenig@themainemag.com

December 2017 19

CREATE BIGGER

BRAND

WE LOVE MAINE. We fill our work days creating Maine-centric media products—publishing magazines and guides, producing radio shows, managing social media sites, developing websites, filming videos, producing events—because of this simple tenet. Our staff stayed here, came back here, or moved here because they love Maine’s rich history, its unique character, and the people who live here, and most importantly we believe in Maine’s potential. We simultaneously love the Maine we grew up in, while fully embracing the reality that things change and evolve. And we bear witness to that happening here. We are cheerleaders for Maine as a place for people to live, stay, and thrive—a place for people from away to move to, as a place for second homeowners to buy into, a place to raise children, a place to start and operate a business, as a place to visit and explore, as a place to escape and heal. And, as a place to be inspired. We cover Maine in a positive light. We very intentionally leave the negativity and snark to other media outlets. There is a place for everything, and we honor that. But that place is not here. So if you love Maine, please turn to us with your reading eyes, your listening ears, your follows and your likes, your attendance, and your advertising and sponsorships. Explore what we believe is the best Maine has to offer on the pages of our magazines, guides, through the airwaves, at events, and via social media.

BRAND DEVELOPMENT ADVERTISING PRINT + WEB DESIGN SEARCH ENGINE MARKETING SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGY MEDIA PLANNING

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Chief Executive Officer | Kevin Thomas Chief Operating Officer | Andrea King Chief Financial Officer | Jack Leonardi Maine is published twelve times each year by Maine Media Collective LLC

It’s about a new direction. thebrandcompany.me 207.772.3373

Editorial and subscription information: phone 207.772.3373 | fax 888.836.6715 16 Middle Street | Suite 501 | Portland | Maine | 04101 Opinions expressed in articles or advertisements, unless otherwise noted, do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher, staff, or advisory board. Every effort has been made to ensure that all information presented in this issue is accurate, and neither Maine nor any of its staff is responsible for omissions or information that has been misrepresented to the magazine. Copyright © 2017, Maine Media Collective LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission, in writing, from the publisher. Printed in the U.S.A. themainemag.com

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STAFF NOTE Photography by Sean Thomas

Our parents started us on skis early—as babies, my brother, Seth, and I rode in their backpack carriers. As we learned to walk they shoved us into gators and clipped us into little cross-country skis. At age four we had downhill lessons and got up the confidence to ride up the T-bar alone. As soon as we were able to get up and down the mountain without falling, we were given “mountain blanche” to go off on our own and ski the day away. Oh, the days of family trips in the ’80s! Everyone went—aunts, uncles, cousins, neighbors—and we skied on planks, wore neon, ate M&Ms on the chairlift, and every tavern had its own popcorn machine. We skied as a family, and sometimes we went off solo, always meeting up at the lodge for hot drinks and the picnic my mom had stowed away in a locker.

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Seth and I had no choice but to be hooked on skiing. We didn’t know a life without it. So it came as no surprise when the two of us went away to college together in Bozeman, Montana. There, our home mountain was the epic Bridger Bowl, with Big Sky Resort on weekends. The snow was so different! And there was so much of it. It took a few runs to get the hang of riding it. But we did, and it was glorious. We returned to New England. Some years passed. My skis got dull leaning in a corner of our barn. Thinking of skiing made me miss Montana. Then I started working at a brewery that sent me to mountains to host promos at lodge pubs. By chance, I wound up at the Widowmaker Lounge at Sugarloaf. I had been to Sugarloaf before, but not like this. There was just something about this mountain. It was the best skiing I had since

Montana—nice and tall, steep and curvy, with plenty to explore. But it was more about the people—welcoming, friendly, and inclusive. And they all seemed to know each other. They swept me up and made me a part of their community. That was the moment I became a Sugarloafer. It wasn’t after my first run in the ’80s. It wasn’t after eating my first Bag Burger at the Bag and Kettle. It was the moment that these people became my winter family, and I realized this is the place I want to be.

Mali Welch Art Director The Brand Company mali@thebrandcompany.me

December 2017 21

WE GIVE BACK.

Our mission is to make a substantial and unique commitment to supporting Maine’s nonprofit community both statewide, regionally, and at the town level. We believe that the work Maine’s nonprofit organizations do, individually and collectively, makes our lives better and Maine a better place to live. With limited budgets, Maine’s nonprofits need help boosting awareness of their specific causes and help to raise the funds they need. We have established long-term relationships with over 120 nonprofits and community-based organizations. We give to these organizations by providing, free of charge, services ranging from advertising, graphic design, brand development, marketing advice, online announcements, and social media engagement. We often include nonprofit organizations in our editorial coverage through feature articles and/or recaps of their events. You’ll find the latter in our “There + Then,” “Turnout,” and “Gather” sections. Over the past year, we have made cash and in-kind donations and services of more than:

$1,930,463 WE ARE PROUD OF OUR AFFILIATION WITH THE FOLLOWING ORGANIZATIONS:

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Chief Executive Officer | Kevin Thomas Chief Operating Officer | Andrea King Chief Financial Officer | Jack Leonardi Maine is published twelve times each year by Maine Media Collective LLC Editorial and subscription information: phone 207.772.3373 | fax 888.836.6715 16 Middle Street | Suite 501 | Portland | Maine | 04101 Opinions expressed in articles or advertisements, unless otherwise noted, do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher, staff, or advisory board. Every effort has been made to ensure that all information presented in this issue is accurate, and neither Maine nor any of its staff is responsible for omissions or information that has been misrepresented to the magazine. Copyright © 2017, Maine Media Collective LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission, in writing, from the publisher. Printed in the U.S.A. themainemag.com

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CONTRIBUTORS

ANDREA KING is an entrepreneur, adventurer,

KAREN WATTERSON is a born and bred New Englander, raised in Massachusetts, educated in Vermont, and thrilled to be living in Maine for the past 15 years. From the rocky coast to the mountains, she has the opportunity to travel all over the state in search of Maine’s best food. Eat, p. 114

ERIN LITTLE is a Maine-based photographer specializing in environmental portraiture and interiors. For this issue she had the pleasure of seeing the beautiful Sugarloaf region in the height of fall and meet the Kohler family, who really know how to entertain a crowd in their beautiful home. “Welcome Home,” p. 102

KATY KELLEHER is the author of Handcrafted Maine,

traveler, and feminist. After working in over 25 countries, she is excited to spend time discovering all the charm that Maine has to offer. A native Newfoundlander, she feels at home by the ocean. 48 Hours, p. 38

a book that intimately profiles 22 artists and makers living in the Pine Tree State. When she’s not writing, reporting, or teaching, she can be found foraging for fiddleheads in the woods of western Maine, snowshoeing around Buxton, or napping alongside a pile of dogs. “Welcome Home,” p. 102

December 2017 23

THERE + THEN Photography by Dave Dostie

WINTERKIDS DOWNHILL 24

Supporting programs that foster active, healthy children Presented by Darling’s Auto Group, the fifth annual WinterKids Downhill 24 raised $283,000 for WinterKids’s programs, which help children develop healthy habits through education and outdoor activities. The team ski challenge and fundraiser is the only annual event that incorporates night skiing at Sugarloaf Mountain Resort. Next year’s event is scheduled for March 2 and 3, 2018.

We’re the vacation planning service that will help you fall in love with Maine.

02 01

“What I love best about the D24 is the energy that surrounds the event. My 12-year-old son and niece skied for the first time last year and haven’t stopped talking about the thrill of skiing under the lights at Sugarloaf. It is a special event that is so beneficial to school children across Maine and New Hampshire.” —Lisa Trundy-Whitten, board member of WinterKids 06

yourmaineconcierge.com 207.215.4151

01 Julie Mulkern, executive director at WinterKids, and Jessica Green, program and development coordinator at WinterKids 02 Kelly Mailhot, International Fidelity Insurance Company, and Christina Christie, social worker at Franklin Health Pediatrics 03 Matt Cosby, freelance photographer, and Susan Axelrod, managing editor of Old Port magazine 04 Gabe Weiss, corporate lawyer at WEX, and Julia Clukey, recruiter at WEX 05 Chris Jordan, Professional Insurance 06 Jeff Rollo, SIGCO, and Kathryn Swenson, Maine Capital Group 07 Kate Butler; Sherry Marcoux, physical therapist; Dave Chipman; and Amy Booth, senior vice president and partner at CBRE | The Boulos Company 08 Shelby MacLeod, IDEXX

MYSA POINTS NORTH Mysa (pronounced “mee-sah”) is Chilton’s modern take on the Swedish sleigh bed. Designed and built in Maine.

w w w.ch i l to n s.co m 8 6 6 - 8 8 3 -3 3 6 6 • F R E E P O R T 2 07- 8 6 5 - 4 3 0 8 • S C A R B O R O U G H 2 07- 8 8 3 -3 3 6 6

suger m a i n e m a d e c o m f o rt

THERE + THEN Photography by Dave Dostie

SUGARLOAF CINQ A SEPT

An after-work gathering of friends and colleagues October’s Cinq A Sept was held at Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel during Homecoming Weekend. Maine Honda Dealers and Mountainside Real Estate sponsored the event. 01

portland 271 commercial

biddeford 25 alfred st

“All of us at Maine magazine enjoy being part of the Sugarloaf community.”

—Dr. Lisa Belisle, wellness editor at Maine Media Collective

06 07

crafted with joy

angelrox.com may peace prevail

01Richard Madore; Sam Punderson, broker at Mountainside Real Estate; and Shirley Madore 02 Kelsey Grousbeck, director of outreach at Camp Jabberwocky; Matt Cosby, freelance photographer; and Dr. Lisa Belisle, wellness editor at Maine Media Collective 03 Kevin Browne, architect; Shannon Richards, director of business development at Caleb Johnson Studio; Caleb Johnson, principal architect at Caleb Johnson Studio; and Jeffery D’Amico, director of sales at Maine Media Collective 04 Kevin Thomas, CEO at Maine Media Collective; Tom Fremont-Smith, president of Bigelow Mountain Partners; and Leandra Fremont-Smith, owner of Leandra Fremont-Smith Interiors 05 Jordan Milne, founder of Hardshore Distilling Company, and Lindsay Zahradka Milne, associate at Bernstein Shur 06 Stella Hernandez and Guy Hernandez, both partners at Lolita Vinoteca and Asador 07 Deborah Pierce, broker at Mountainside Real Estate; Hannah Finegold; and Jayme Lee, administrator at Mountainside Real Estate

WINTER AT CLIFF HOUSE

IT’S NOT JUST FOR SUMMER ANYMORE

No matter the season, discover a new generation of Cliff House and build memories that will last a lifetime, all cloaked in the comfort and warmth of authentic Maine hospitality. Just an hour north of Boston, enjoy a broad array of activities including snowshoeing under the stars, snuggling by the fireplace, or elemental-inspired spa services to further enrich your escape. Call 207 361-1000 or book online at cliffhousemaine.com

cliffhousemaine.com

· 207 361-1000 · contact your travel professional · 591 shore road, cape neddick, maine

THERE + THEN Photography by Dave Dostie

SEVENTEENTH ANNUAL SUGARLOAF CHARITY SUMMIT

Raising a mountain of money to help fight cancer The Sugarloaf Charity Summit featured several events, including the Sugarloaf Charity Ball and Loafers for a Cure, and benefited Maine Cancer Foundation and Martha B. Webber Breast Care Center in their efforts to fight cancer. The event has raised more than $2 million to date. On January 27, 2018, the Sugarloaf community will come together for the 18th Annual Sugarloaf Charity Summit. 01

Lunch should be just as good as dinner.

“The Sugarloaf community is unwavering in its generosity, and nowhere is this more evident than at the Sugarloaf Charity Summit. We’re fortunate to be able to work with great partners in the Maine Cancer Foundation and Martha B. Webber Breast Care Center, and we’re excited to welcome the Dempsey Center on as our newest partner for the event this winter.” —Karl Strand, general manager of Sugarloaf Mountain Resort

443 FORE STREET, PORTLAND 207 358 7830 EVOPORTLAND.COM

03 06

01 Bob Peixotto, board chair at Maine Huts and Trails; Joan Benoit Samuelson, athlete and founder of TD Beach to Beacon 10K; and Susan Peixotto, social worker 02 Angus King, U.S. senator 03 Nathalie Bishop and Erin Ovalle, executive producer and host at Maine Life Media 04 Becca Austin; Ethan Austin, director of marketing at Sugarloaf Mountain Resort; and Julia Bachelder, events manager at Maine Cancer Foundation 05 Tara Marsh Hill, executive director at Maine Cancer Foundation, and Emily Charlotte Hill, Literacy Volunteers of Massachusetts 06 Susan Fogarty and Corey Fogarty, Stonewall Kitchen 07 Dora Anne Mills, vice president for clinical affairs and interim vice president for research and scholarship at the University of New England, and Lisa Marchese, deputy attorney general 08 Jeffrey D’Amico, director of sales at Maine Media Collective, and Sarah Mather, IEP team coordinator at Maine Department of Education 09 Kate Punderson, head of school at Carrabassett Valley Academy, and Sam Punderson, broker at Mountainside Real Estate

maine | themainemag.com

WORDS FROM OUR READERS Love an article from last month? Have a place in Maine you want us to cover? We welcome comments of any kind. Send your notes to letters@ themainemag.com or message us on Facebook @themainemagazine.

o t R A E Y R U O Y s i s Thi

! S T H G I R G N I G G EARN BRA

BRING A TEAM! WEAR A COSTUME!

Thank you for posting these beautiful pictures of Maine. I am so tired of the junk that people keep posting on Facebook. Looking at these pictures of our beautiful Maine is so refreshing. Please don’t ever stop. —Patrice MacArthur, Waterville, ME I love the magazine just as it is! I believe that Maine magazine is the best, and I love the way it is laid out. Even the advertising is well done. Keep writing about Maine and its unique unknowns. —Coleman Clarke, Long Island, NY

I miss and love Maine. Austin is my new home, but it will never compare (I prefer 4 degree temps over 104 any day). I’m working at moving my Texan husband to Maine as soon as I can. They’re as loyal to Texas as Mainers are to Maine. In the meantime, I need to plant little seeds like Maine magazine throughout the house. Get that magazine to me quickly, and wish me luck!

Join hundreds of brave Mainers for the Natural Resources Council of Maine’s 10th annual

POLAR BEAR DIP & DASH! SUNDAY, December 31, 2017 East End Beach, Portland

Help raise awareness AND funds in support of our work to address climate change here in Maine! 5K “warm up” run around Portland’s Back Cove trail: 11:00 a.m. (registration starts at 9:00 a.m., Back Cove parking lot, across from Hannaford). Polar Bear Dip into Casco Bay, East End Beach: Noon (registration at 11:00 a.m., not necessary for race participants). Shuttle will return participants to Back Cove parking lot after dip. Cool prizes from local businesses for 5k winners by age class, top fundraisers, and for best costume! Learn more and sign up at nrcm.org.

—Devon Bernier, Austin, TX

Be BOLD in the COLD to help protect Maine’s environment.

SPECIAL THANKS TO OUR LEAD SPONSORS!

December 2017 29

EVENTS

WISH YOU WERE HERE.

COMMUNITY

DECEMBER

12.1–12.2 HOLIDAY ART SALE

Maine College of Art Porteous Building 522 Congress St. | Portland meca.edu

12.7

FIRST THURSDAY ART OPENING FEATURING ARTWORKS BY JULIE HOUCK 5 p.m.–7 p.m. Portland Art Gallery 154 Middle St. | Portland artcollectormaine.com

12.7

BANDA MAGDA

Portland Ovations 8 p.m. Port City Music Hall 504 Congress St. | Portland portlandovations.org

12.8–12.10 A CHRISTMAS CAROL The Public Theatre 31 Maple St. | Lewiston thepublictheatre.org

12.10

HOLIDAY DASH 5K

Portland Trails 11 a.m. Rí Rá 72 Commercial St. | Portland trails.org

12.31

POLAR BEAR DIP & DASH

National Resources Council of Maine 11 a.m. East End Beach | Portland nrcm.org

LET’S GET THIS PARTY STARTED. (207) 667-6000 | WALLACEEVENTS.COM 30

maine | themainemag.com

G AIL B LACKBURN I NTERIOR D ESIGN I N T E R I O R D E S I G N & A R C H I T E C T U R A L D E TA I L I N G stuDio

n o rt h

Photo and Cabinetry by CrownPoint Cabinetry

Dear Future Client, I would really love the opportunity to work with you and shower a little design magic on your project. I am creative, upbeat, and passionate about great design and skiing. Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s get together and see if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good interior design fit. I can meet you at your site or we could just chat on the chairlift.

D o oDle , D es ig n , D o n e !

Thank you so much! Gail Blackburn Doodleologist Maine Ski Hall of Fame 2013

c a r r a b a s s e t t va l l e y , m a i n e 603 651 9902

gbinteriordesign@gmail.com

gb -interior design.com

ALLSPEED.COM | 207.878.8741 | BC @ ALLSPEED.COM 127 MARGINAL WAY | PORTLAND, MAINE 04101

MAINEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BACKCOUNTRY SHOP ALPINE | ALPINE TOURING | TELEMARK | FAT BIKES SKI TUNING | CUSTOM BOOT WORK & CUSTOM FOOTBEDS

SOCIAL MEDIA Photography by Shelbi Wassick @Maine Magazine

@themainemag

Every day our team is exploring the state and sharing its raw, singular beauty on social media. Followers write back, sharing their own stories of the places we visitâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;memories of past beach days, family vacations, and moonlit treks. Join our growing community of 200,000 followers.

Maine Magazine | Schoodic Lake

22,783 people reached 1,080 likes, 18 comments, 158 shares

LOWER SCHOOL LIVE DECEMBER 7 Online editor Shelbi Wassick spent the first days of October vacationing with family friends at their newly renovated camp on Schoodic Lake. From the deck of a pontoon boat, Shelbi captured the early-autumn leaves and their reflection in the clear water, just as they began to change. Debbie Lynn I miss Maine so much. I remember beautiful clear lakes like this as a child. You Mainers are very blessed.

AND

JANUARY 31 Visit us during a school day. For parents of students toddler through grade 4.

Joyia Cyr Leaves? Who cares about leavesâ&#x20AC;Ślook how clear and clean that water is.

Barbara Curcio Hopefully the colors will still be there in two weeks! December 2017 33

NORTH YARMOUTH ACADEMY admission@nya.org | www.NYA.org/visit

NEW + NOTEWORTHY

We are tax ninjas.

by Brittany Cost Portland restaurateurs Jason Loring and Michael Fraser are opening two new restaurants in the former Gepetto’s and the Sidebar at Gepetto’s at Sugarloaf Mountain Resort. Opening on November 20, Hunker Down will feature Italian-influenced comfort food and Portland craft beer, and the restaurant will include an arcade room. Wax On/Wax Off, inspired by The Karate Kid, will open in the adjacent bar in late December. Head chef for both restaurants, James Tompkins has over 30 years’ experience in the restaurant industry and previously worked on the Victory Chimes schooner out of Rockland. Jennifer Czifrik serves as general manager, and Jeff Gerhards is bar manager. Hannaford Supermarkets is donating $407,000 to hunger prevention programs, including Good Shepherd Food Bank, Cultivating Community, and Full Plates Full Potential. The donation was raised through Hannaford’s Guiding Stars nutrition program that encourages customers to buy healthy food; in exchange for each Guiding Star purchase, the supermarket chain promised to contribute to hunger relief efforts.

Photography by Myriam Babin, Chris Howell

The Hinckley Company has unveiled the world’s first fully electric luxury yacht, called Dasher. Michael Peters designed Dasher’s carbon-epoxy composite hull shape to enhance performance and handling. Crafted from a lightweight handpainted epoxy composite that has the look of varnished teak and finished with 3-D printed titanium hardware and console details, Dasher relies on twin 80-horsepower electric motors and dual BMW i3 lithium ion batteries. The yacht cruises at 10 miles per hour with fast-cruising at 18 to 27 miles per hour. A team of sailors from Maine has won first place for all-female finishers in the 2017 J/24 World Championship in Mississauga, Canada. Sponsored by Sea Bags, the team also finished in 39th place out of 63 teams in the 2017 J/24 World Championship. Maine Academy of Modern Music has announced its 2017 Chords for Kids Rock Stars in Our Communities Award recipients. Honorees include Maine magazine, which received its Community Sponsor Award, and the Quimby Family Foundation, which was recognized with the Foundation Partner Award. Mark Curdo, host of WCYY’s music show Spinout, was honored with the Music Community Leader Award, and Eugene Nichols received the Maine Music Educator Award.

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FRIDAY

WHERE WE STAYED SNOWFLOWER CONDOMINIUMS

AFTERNOON:

Bluebird day on the slopes

WHERE WE ATE 45 NORTH THE WIDOWMAKER LOUNGE THE RACK BBQ BULLWINKLE’S SHIPYARD BREW HAUS JAVA JOE’S WHAT WE DID SKIED AT SUGARLOAF SUGARLOAF OUTDOOR CENTER SWAM AT SUGARLOAF SPORTS AND FITNESS CENTER SHOPPED AT THE DOWNHILL SUPPLY COMPANY, BURTON SIGNATURE STORE, AND KÜHL SIGNATURE STORE

At 4,237 feet Sugarloaf is New England’s third-tallest ski area, but in skiing and snowboarding, it’s not just size that matters—each ski area has its own identity and character, defined as much by its activities, dining, and atmosphere as by its mountain stats. 02

Experienced skiers and riders know that bona fide epic days on the mountain are defined by either heaps of fresh snow (even if it’s still falling) or full-out sunshine and blue skies. If you’re lucky, like we are this weekend, you get both: a clear blue sky, bright sun, and lots of new snow. Over the past weeks, Sugarloaf has received over five feet of snow, and it has the deepest snowpack in New England. With over 163 trails and more in the side-country terrain of Burnt Mountain, Brackett Basin, and the glades of the Eastern Territory, Sugarloaf takes more than a few days to fully explore. After fueling up with some Carrabassett Coffee at Java Joe’s and a phenomenal bowl of Powdah Chowdah at the Widowmaker Lounge (also known for its spectacular nacho platter) in Sugarloaf’s base lodge, we coast onto the Double Runner West lift for a few warm-up runs. For our first day we stick mostly to the green and blue trails off the Whiffletree and Sugarloaf SuperQuad lifts; for last run, we take the Timberline chair to the summit (Sugarloaf also boasts the only lift-serviced above-treeline skiing in the East) for a pre-sunset panoramic view. The sights of Mount Washington and Mount Katahdin are exhilarating. Our last run is top to bottom: through the Snowfields, then a long cruise down Tote Road, Spur Line, Stomping Grounds, and Candy Side to the base lodge. The sheer variety of runs, along with the diversity of challenging terrain, underscores Sugarloaf’s reputation as a mountain for skiers and riders of all tastes and abilities.

EVENING:

Après-ski and story time

01 38

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Our first stop is 45 North, a warm, chic restaurant located off the lobby of the Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel. Its menu is modern Maine cuisine, and its wine list is superb. Over a

48 HOURS

03 05

04 01 Roasting marshmallows at the Beach. 02 Investigating Moose Alley cabins. 03 Bonding on the lift. 04 En route to find Amos the Moose on this enjoyable and kid-friendly trail. 05 Skis and boards outside the base lodge at Sugarloaf. few glasses of shiraz (and hot chocolate for the kids), we sample the roasted pear salad with mixed greens, blue cheese, maple vinaigrette, and local cranberries. It goes perfectly with the fried cauliflower with parsley, lemon, capers, raisins, shallots, and spinach. A solo guitarist playing a mix of melodies adds to the relaxed ambience. Fortified, we step back into our skis for a gentle cruise down the lower Snowbrook trail below the base lodge to our ski-in place at Snowflower Condominiums. The twobedroom condo is amply appointed, including a wood-burning fireplace and complimentary use of the Sugarloaf Sports and Fitness Center (with a pool, hot tubs, gym, and more), just a short walk away.

Sugarloaf organizes kids-focused family evenings most weeks at the Sugarloaf Outdoor Center, a high-ceilinged, post-and-beam lodge located in the woods off Route 27. After a wholesome pasta and salad buffet, the staff reads stories to about 30 children huddled in front of a roaring stone fireplace. The evening is reasonably priced, and it’s easy and fun to mingle with other families. Everyone also goes home with some Sugarloaf swag.

SATURDAY MORNING:

Peak conditions and minimal lines All the new snow and sunny weather draws a lot of people, but our initial fears of lines are unfounded, as the mountain easily absorbs the crowds. With its vast terrain and 13

lifts, including two high-speed detachable quads, Sugarloaf’s uphill capacity is huge.

AFTERNOON:

A mid-mountain lunch and treats at the Beach Located at the intersection of Timberline and Windrow trails and shrouded by pine trees and snow is Bullwinkle’s, a Eurostyle, on-mountain restaurant that offers a quick ski-in, ski-out snack or a sit-down lunch of healthy comfort food. You can warm up next to a fireplace or sit on the deck in the sun. The French onion soup and mac and cheese are outstanding. On Saturday nights, visitors can journey up the mountain by snow cat for an elegant multicourse dinner. After a last top-to-bottom leg burner it’s time for S’mores on the Beach—a kind of happy hour for children hosted by Amos

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the Moose in front of Sugarloaf’s base lodge. A crowd of rosycheeked kids gathers around an outdoor fire pit and, aided by resort ambassadors, roast up deliciously gooey marshmallow s’mores.

EVENING:

Après-ski at the Rack Every good ski town has a quintessential après-ski party spot, and about a mile off-mountain, the Rack BBQ is just that. A multilevel barn-like structure, it has the feel of a good-time, honky-tonk brewpub with colored lights, pool tables, and live music. Ski memorabilia plasters the walls and ceilings, including an accessible vintage hanging gondola. Skis and race bibs hang to honor ski celebrities who have called Sugarloaf their home mountain, such as Bode Miller, Emily Cook, Kirsten Clark, and Seth Wescott, who co-owns the Rack. Locals and visitors can enjoy a phenomenal selection of beers and dine on classic ribs, brisket, pulled pork, and wings in homemade sauces. Driving up Access Road back to our condo, we see the lights of the groomers, like fireflies, high up on the mountain, preparing the mountain for another great day.

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SUNDAY MORNING:

Final runs and ski shopping Out early for one last sunny morning on the mountain, we explore some tree runs and a few lifts we haven’t encountered. We 40

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01 Story time with Blueberry Bear, Pierre the Lumberjack, and Amos the Moose at the Sugarloaf Outdoor Center. 02 Happy skiers on Sugarloaf. do a few runs through the kidfriendly Moose Alley in the woods, with its miniature log cabins and playhouses, like something out of Snow White and the Seven Dwarves. We have time to wander through a few of the retail shops at the base of the mountain, including alpine skiing and snowboarding outfitter Downhill Supply Company, the Burton Signature Store, and the Kühl Signature Store. We take photos of the snow sculptures of moose and bears and grab some delicious burgers to go from the Shipyard Brew Haus at the Sugarloaf Inn. It has struck us that—with or without kids—we’d need far more than 48 hours to cover this mountain properly. Sugarloaf is big and fun, and it’s clear why this is one of the truly great ski resorts in the East.

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CARRABASSETT VALLEY: SUMMER in 48 Hours SUSAN AXELROD MANAGING EDITOR, OLD PORT MAGAZINE WHERE WE STAYED SUGARLOAF MOUNTAIN HOTEL WHERE WE ATE 45 NORTH D’ELLIES ROLLING FATTIES THE BAG AND KETTLE TEA POND LODGE AND CABINS THE RACK POPLAR STREAM HUT WHAT WE DID ZIPLINE TOUR AT SUGARLOAF SUPERQUAD RIDE AT SUGARLOAF HOT TUB AT SUGARLOAF HIKE TO POPLAR HUT AND POPLAR STREAM FALLS SUGARLOAF SPORTS OUTLET RED BARN UPCYCLED MARKET SCENT-SATIONS

In the summer, Sugarloaf’s steep, snow-covered trails give way to green, opening up opportunities for an outdoors-focused weekend on and around the mountain.

FRIDAY EVENING:

In for the night My friend Emily Ryan and I check into our room at the Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel for our end-ofsummer weekend trip. We are thrilled to find that it’s a two-story suite with a sitting area, kitchenette, Murphy bed, and bathroom on the main floor, and a spiral staircase to a bedroom and bath on the second level. We also have a great view of Sugarloaf Village just outside our windows, which is especially busy because there are three weddings on the mountain this weekend. Intrigued by the Murphy bed, Emily calls dibs, and we head downstairs for drinks and dinner at 45 North, the hotel’s restaurant. Decorated in modern farmhouse style,

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45 North has barn wood walls hung with groupings of vintage plates, deliberately mismatched wooden chairs at each table, and pendant lights that resemble giant birds’ nests. It’s charming and comfortable, the ideal vibe for a Maine ski resort. Emily orders the Maine Mule, made with vodka, blueberry syrup, and ginger beer, and I opt for a Jamaican Old Fashioned, with rum instead of the traditional whisky. The menu features Maine-focused food, much of it locally sourced. We start with an unusual appetizer of fried cauliflower with shallots, spinach, capers, and golden raisins, served in a paper cone, and a beet salad with ricotta, hazelnuts, and wild blueberries, both flavorful and delicious. We decide to share a main course—salmon with white beans, summer squashes, and mushrooms with a saffron remoulade. The salmon fillet is nicely crispy on the outside, pink on the inside, and the rich remoulade

48 HOURS pulls the whole dish together beautifully. The fresh green beans in a side dish, enhanced by pistachio pesto, taste like they came out of someone’s garden that afternoon. A bottle of rosé is the ideal accompaniment, and we skip dessert to chat over our last glasses.

SATURDAY MORNING:

Zip-a-dee-do-dah We open the curtains to a glorious day with a cloudless, bright-blue sky. Our suite is equipped with a coffee maker, so we have our first cups in our pajamas before getting dressed and heading just across Main Street to D’Ellies. It’s hopping with wedding guests and families on the mountain for a weekend in the outdoors. We order egg and cheese bagel sandwiches to fuel up for the day, and help ourselves to coffee from Carrabassett Coffee Company, roasted just down the road in Kingfield. A sign over the coffee counter reads

“Today Will Be Awesome,” just in case there were any doubts. We snag a table on the D’Ellies patio and savor the view of the Bigelow Mountain Range across the valley. The Outpost Adventure Center, headquarters for zip line tours, SuperQuad chairlift rides, Segway tours, and kayak and paddleboard rentals, is just a few steps from D’Ellies. We check in and meet our guides: Mathias, Kirby, Kobi, Tom, and Tim. They talk us through putting on harnesses and helmets, tempering the necessary safety precautions with plenty of goofy humor. Soon we’re loaded onto a bus bumping up the mountain to the first of six zip lines that zigzag through the woods. I’m not super keen on heights, so I’m prepared to be a little nervous, but the guys make it easy and relaxed; they even put on the brakes at the end of each run, so all we have to do is fly and have fun. A few of the runs involve challenges: dropping a stone into a bucket (much harder than it looks) and getting a hula hoop over a post (ditto).

The last run is the longest—600 yards—and sends us flying out of the woods across a ski trail. It’s a blast, and we’re all a little sad when it’s over.

AFTERNOON: A trip into town

The quaint village of Kingfield, known as “the gateway to Sugarloaf,” is quiet on this offseason Saturday. We wander over to the Carrabassett River, which flows through town and over a small dam, check out Barbara Wiencek’s whimsical collection of furniture and gifts at Red Barn Upcycled Market, and browse the sale racks at Sugarloaf Sports Outlet. Our much-anticipated lunch stop is Rolling Fatties Restaurant and Bar, which owners Rob and Polly MacMichael started in an Airstream trailer and later moved to an orange farmhouse downtown. Warm and engaging, the MacMichaels chat with us as we devour their delicious food and pints of local beer—a falafel fatty with a Bigelow Brewing Avery Peak 4088 Summer Wheat for me, and a

01 The Carrabassett River flows over a dam in downtown Kingfield. 02 Rolling Fatties co-owner Polly MacMichael went to nursery school in the Kingfield farmhouse where the restaurant is now located. 03 Mathias Ringle checks Emily Ryan’s harness before sending her down a zipline at Sugarloaf. 04 The lodge at Tea Pond Lodge and Cabins is just two years old, but feels like a classic Maine camp. 05 Vintage finds are arranged in vignettes at Red Barn Upcycled Market.

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48 HOURS

01 A ride on Sugarloaf’s SuperQuad chairlift offers spectacular views of the Bigelow Mountain Range across the valley. 02 Polly and Rob MacMichael, owners of the popular Rolling Fatties Restaurant and Bar in Kingfield. 03 Sugarloaf Village viewed from the SuperQuad chairlift. fresh vegetable bowl with a Foundation Brewing Burnside for Emily. “Fatty” is a cheeky name for a fat burrito; the MacMichaels make their own tortillas and fill them with everything from maple pulled pork to cheeseburgers—all made with local ingredients. Then it’s back to Sugarloaf for a ride up the mountain on the SuperQuad chairlift. The view at the top is breathtaking and continues on the way back down. We have just enough time before dinner for a soak in the hotel’s outdoor hot tub and a drink on the patio of The Bag and Kettle, a Sugarloaf institution.

EVENING:

Dinner off the grid I met Sandy Lamontagne, the owner of Tea Pond Lodge and Cabins, at an event at Sugarloaf in the summer of 2016. Ever since, I have been curious about the old, off-the-grid fishing camp that she and her husband, Craig House, bought a few years ago and have made their own. The 20-mile trip takes us along the western edges of the Bigelow Preserve and Flagstaff Lake and down

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a dirt road that extends just over two miles. Despite the remote location, the parking lot outside the lodge is full, and the dining room is packed, with a large group gathered around the fire pit below the porch. We catch a glimpse of the lake before the sunset and join the happy crowd inside. A fried green tomato appetizer is a home run, setting the stage for the rest of the meal. My honeybourbon steak tips with mashed potatoes and local vegetables are hearty and satisfying, and Emily is delighted with a big salad featuring beets, Amish blue cheese, pickled onions, and pumpkin seeds, topped with grilled shrimp. We wrap up our fine meal with a generous slice of first-rate, very berry pie, made by Lamontagne, with ice cream, of course. Back at Sugarloaf, we stop for a nightcap at The Rack, where the Ice Out Band soon has us dancing to familiar tunes.

SUNDAY: MORNING

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four off-the-grid eco lodges in the area, has invited us up to the Poplar Hut for lunch. We meet Cayce Frigon, the organization’s marketing communications director, at the trailhead for a moderate hike through sun-dappled woods carpeted with moss. Arriving at the hut, we relax with Maine Root lemonade on the screened porch before lunch, a simple, nourishing meal of potato soup and grilled cheese and vegetable sandwiches. On the return trip, we hike down a steep trail to see Poplar Stream Falls, which tumbles down a sheer rock face into a wide, shallow—and cold— pool.

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Heading home, we make a final stop at Scent-Sations gift shop on the edge of downtown Kingfield, where owner Rose Winter stocks everything from essential oils and natural beauty products to clothing, books, and kitchenware. We joke that no “girls’ weekend” is complete without a little shopping, and Winter sends us on our way with bags in hand and satisfied smiles.

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SUGARLOAF GLADES Both daredevils and peace-seekers in search of a trail less traveled should head toward Sugarloaf’s backcountry-style glades, where trees, cliffs, and solitude make for exciting—and tranquil—skiing and snowboarding. Just make sure to comply with safety guidelines before adventuring.

Androscoggin Glade

Previously only accessible by hiking or skinning, Sugarloaf Mountain Resort recently expanded access to Burnt Mountain with New England’s first true cat-skiing operation, which will transport skiers up the mountain in 12-passenger snowcats. Androscoggin Glade on the eastern flank of Burnt offers more than 1,200 vertical feet and 68 acres of powder.

Broccoli Garden

The entrance to Broccoli Garden, named for the squat trees along the trail, is marked by a short stick on Buckboard trail. Broccoli Garden is less steep than other tree-skiing trails, so it’s more appropriate for less confident or younger skiers and snowboarders.

Barber Chair Glade

On top of Sugarloaf Mountain, Barber Chair Glade lies west of Timberline trail and runs down the mountain. At its summit, the glade provides the only above-treeline skiing on the East Coast. Barber Chair Glade is especially popular with little Loafers.

Brackett Basin

Brackett Basin holds more than a dozen backcountry-style glades featuring steeps, chutes, and cliff bands, and is accessed by King Pine or Whiffletree lifts. Only expert skiers should attempt to navigate through the maze of glades.

Rookie River

Located off Lombard Crosscut, Rookie River is a fun, mid-mountain glade that crisscrosses along a frozen riverbed. Those brave enough to attempt the steep drop-in entrance are rewarded with an easygoing schuss through the trees—the high tree-lined riverbanks lend a natural half-pipe feel to the run.

Greenhorn Glade

On Sugarloaf’s westernmost developed terrain, Greenhorn Glade is a bit of a hike from the base of the mountain, but well worth the expedition; the glade is often coated in fresh powder, even several days after a snowstorm.

Opposite page: Skiing the Androscoggin Glade. December 2017 53

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A crowd has gathered on the Narrow Gauge trail below the finish line of the 2017 U.S. Alpine Championships Super G. Red and blue gates snake down the course, which begins near the Spillway Crosscut and features a vertical drop of 582 meters. As the fans shuffle their feet and rub their hands together to stay warm, a small figure, dressed in a form-fitting racing suit and helmet, hurtles over the headwall. The edges of her skis bite into the turns with a sharp, rapid shuuush. She tucks into a strong finish and greets her Carrabassett Valley Academy (CVA) teammates with poles raised as she comes to a halt at the bottom of the run. Beginning with its first World Cup event in 1971, the slopes of Sugarloaf Mountain have tested the skills of countless elite skiers and snowboarders—many of whom came up through CVA programs. In 2016, athletes of all ability levels found a new home at the $2.1 million Bill and Joan Alfond Competition Center, just down the hill from the Narrow Gauge racecourse. The competition center, first conceived of more than two decades ago, represents a collaborative effort between Sugarloaf Mountain Resort, the town of Carrabassett Valley, the Sugarloaf Mountain Ski Club, and CVA. “I’ve done a few projects in my life, but this one was exceptional,” says Bill Alfond. He and Joan are members of a fourth-generation Sugarloaf family. “CVA gathered a phenomenal team of staff and

volunteers who worked together seamlessly to create an outstanding competition center.” The Bill and Joan Alfond Foundation gave a $1 million grant for the center. Members of the Sugarloaf Mountain Ski Club, CVA supporters, Sugarloaf, the town of Carrabassett Valley, and the community at large donated the rest. “We have a great relationship with CVA and with the town of Carrabassett,” says Karl Strand, general manager of Sugarloaf Mountain Resort. “All three of us work hard to try to promote each other. We all succeed together and help each other when we can. We all coexist as one big community. I don’t see it as three separate parts.” Located on the former site of the Sugarloaf gondolaloading terminal, the competition center is the first significant new building on the mountain in 20 years, Strand says. “Any company needs to grow,” he says. “You need to adapt to whatever is happening in the marketplace. We have generations of skiers at Sugarloaf, but every generation has new needs and wants.” Strand, who has been skiing at Sugarloaf since 1987, has been in the hospitality industry for his entire professional career—mostly in golf and skiing. He became the general manager of Sugarloaf in 2015. “It’s almost like running a little town,” says Strand, who carries himself with the surety of an athlete, and seems unfazed by the constantly ringing phones and requests coming from his

U.S. Ski Team member and Carrabassett Valley Academy graduate Sam Morse crosses the finish line of the men’s Super G. December 2017 57

office staff and others. “We have daycare, we run a ski resort, we have food and beverage, we teach skiing, there’s a small police force. You have to know a lot about different things.” The competition center is a shared facility, reflecting both the mountain’s past and its future. Sugarloafers Rick Goduti and Maggie Stanley from the Portland-based Goduti-Thomas Architects designed it; Linwood Doble of Kingfield was the construction manager. The exterior of the building is at once rustic and modern, with skyward-reaching windows flanked by warm wood. The lobby, a hive of constant activity, is dedicated to the family of the late H. King Cummings, one of the visionaries behind CVA. Recreational skiers and racers lounge next to the fireplace in the large, airy Gondola Room, which features storage cubbies and a warming kitchen. Across the lobby, U.S. Alpine Championship race officials are meeting in the Ski Club Heritage conference room, named in honor of Sugarloaf Mountain Ski Club leaders Bruce and Kathy Miles. The ski club has been in existence as long as the ski resort: Amos Winter, Stub Taylor, and other club

members known as the “Bigelow Boys” cut the mountain’s first trail, Winter’s Way, in 1950. The ski club was an early supporter and fundraiser for the competition center and continues to champion initiatives such as the Sugarloaf ski/skate program, which provides winter sports instruction for kids in local schools. The second floor of the competition center has offices for staff from the ski club, Sugarloaf, and CVA, as well as dedicated team rooms for the Colby College and University of Maine ski teams, and lockers for staff and coaches from various programs. The new facility is also a basecamp for students from CVA. Thanks to the efforts of H. King Cummings and his contemporaries, CVA opened its doors as a five-month, winter-term tutorial program in 1982. CVA is now a private middle and high school with a full college preparatory program and training for multiple snow sports, including snowboarding, freestyle skiing, and backcountry pursuits. Many CVA students come from the Carrabassett Valley region and began skiing in their earliest years. “We start the children off skiing when they are very small,” says Strand. “When they get into their teens,

The Bill and Joan Alfond Competition Center nestled at the base of the mountain. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Keeping an eye on the competition and the time clock from the finish line. Weather proved to be a challenge during the final two days of competition, with thick cloud cover limiting visibility on the top section of the course. Sam Morse signs the helmet of a young fan at the finish line.

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December 2017 59

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Opposite page: Race crews and volunteers slip the course between racers to clear excess snow and help smooth the track. This page: Kate Webber Punderson, head of school at Carrabassett Valley Academy.

Sugarloaf. They also took place here in 1996, 1997, 2006, 2008, and 2015. Beginning with the Tall Timber Classic World Cup Championship in 1971, the mountain has become known as one of the premier venues on the East Coast. The Narrow Gauge trail, named after the narrow gauge railroad that previously serviced the logging industry on the mountain, was one of the few trails at the time that had not been cut by founder Amos Winter. Much has changed since then. When Sugarloaf hosted the U.S. Alpine Championships in 2015, U.S. Olympians Lindsey Vonn and Mikaela Shiffrin took center stage. Morse is a blur of red as he skillfully maneuvers down the course. Seconds tick on the clock, and the crowd collectively holds its breath. The March air is damp, carrying with it the faint scent of grilled hamburgers from the base lodge. Morse barrels across the finish line to the cheers of his onlookers, and the reporters grab their notebooks and voice recorders as they jostle for position. Morse’s face is flushed with exertion, taking on the hue of his racing suit, but he has a broad smile. He skis toward the exit and reaches across the barrier to take the helmet of a ten-yearold boy who has presented it for Morse’s signature. He signs the helmet and gives the young skier a high five.

they go into the weekend program. We are always trying to build the sport, whether you become a recreational skier, enjoy freeriding, or want to be competitive.” CVA has more than 200 athletes in its weekend racing programs. U.S. Ski Team member Sam Morse grew up at Sugarloaf. He went through the CVA weekend programs and eventually attended school there. After graduating as valedictorian of his CVA class in 2013, he became a member of the U.S. Ski Team and

attends Dartmouth College in Hanover, New Hampshire, part time. Today he is waiting for his turn at the top of the U.S. Alpine Championships Super G course. A row of photographers looks up the mountain, their cameras’ large black lenses ready for the perfect shot. Children on skis sprawl beneath the evergreens, and “I Gotta Feeling” by the Black-Eyed Peas streams over the intercom. This is the sixth time that the U.S. Alpine Championships have been held at

“Sam Morse is a wonderful young man,” says Kate Webber Punderson, head of school at CVA. “Someone who’s always been very introspective and full of gratitude. He’s so appreciative of the opportunities he had at CVA and at Sugarloaf, and the community that has supported him, that he too wants to give back.” Like Morse, Punderson grew up on the mountain. She moved to town after her parents, Peter and Martha B. Webber, bought the Sugarloaf Inn when she was five. Her father was a ski racer and her mother a recreational skier. After graduating from CVA as the valedictorian in 1989, Punderson went on to

December 2017 61

From left: Karl Strand, general manager of Sugarloaf Mountain Resort. A Sugarloaf family celebrates the end of another day on the slopes by watching fireworks on the Beach.

ski competitively at Middlebury College in Middlebury, Vermont.   Punderson, who has been in her current position at CVA since 2011, is a thoughtful listener. She speaks of her students with both affection and gravity. “We’re very intentional about the programming we put in place to develop leadership skills, kindness, civility, and respect,” she says. “Those values really are the foundation of what we do at CVA.” Punderson enjoys seeing her students excel individually—three young women in CVA’s junior class are taking part in the U.S. Alpine Championships this weekend— but acknowledges that this does not take place in a vacuum. “Everyone will perform better and be more successful if they are

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supportive of one another,” says Punderson. “We work on that with our athletes. It’s really important.” Like Strand, Punderson sees the greater Sugarloaf community as an ecosystem that can benefit from all who live and work within it. “CVA is providing professional jobs and economic growth in Carrabassett Valley and in Franklin County,” says Punderson. “We’re able to keep families and draw families and young professionals to Sugarloaf and to Carrabassett.” In the evening, after the racers have completed their runs and the lifts have closed, Sugarloaf hosts an awards ceremony in the courtyard of the base lodge. Those who have participated in the 2017 U.S.

Alpine Championships are given credit for the day’s accomplishments to the applause of their friends and family. In the background, the Bill and Joan Alfond Competition Center stands as a living monument to the idea that those who have the fastest times are not the only ones who win. What is good for one is often good for all. “I want to help the state of Maine and continue to help keep skiing and snowboarding alive for many kids, beyond the walls of the school and out into the wider community,” says Punderson. It is likely that Amos Winter and the Bigelow Boys felt the same.

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As a licensed Maine architect, Kevin Browne enjoys being part of transformation. The founder of Kevin Browne Architecture in Falmouth, Browne is known for both his residential projects and his work as design committee co-chair for the planned expansion of the Falmouth Memorial Library. A native of Pennsylvania who now lives in West Falmouth, Browne has become an avid Sugarloaf skier and mountain biker. “It’s great to see what’s going on in Carrabassett Valley right now,” says Browne, describing the collaboration between Maine Huts and Trails, the town of Carrabassett, Sugarloaf Mountain, and the Carrabassett Region NEMBA (New England Mountain Bike Association). “All these different groups are working together to make a network of trails, because they can see that the big picture is creating a stronger economy.” Browne and his wife, Heather, became Sugarloaf homeowners several years ago. One day they were in the area to hike the Bigelow Range when their plans were foiled by rain. On a whim, they drove around the Redington neighborhood, just south of the mountain, where friends of theirs lived. They found a home they liked, and put in an offer three weeks later. “I’ve always dreamed of having a mountain camp or lake house,” says Browne. “We decided to look at spending the winters there, skiing on the weekends, and being up there just as much in the summertime.” Browne describes their three-story house, built in 1973, as modest yet comfortable. “It’s camp,” says Browne. “We have a wood stove, which we don’t have at home. It came fully furnished. We never really needed to do much to it, so over time we’ve been starting to change some things around to make it unique.” Browne’s children, who learned to ski at Shawnee Peak in Bridgton, both honed their athletic prowess in the Sugarloaf Bubblecuffer program. “They’ve become almost better skiers than my wife and I,” says Browne. The kids have also become mountain bikers. “It’s a lot like skiing: a great family thing that we all love to do,” says Browne. “When we go up to Sugarloaf in the summertime, the trails up there are great for all levels. That’s where they’ve really learned.”

LISTEN TO THE FULL INTERVIEW Love Maine Radio airs Sundays on WPEI 95.9 FM at 7 a.m. and on WLOB 1310 AM at noon. Past episodes are available for streaming on lovemaineradio.com. Subscribe on iTunes, or wherever you get your podcasts. 67

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Maine Huts and Trails executive director Carolann Ouellette outside of the Flagstaff Hut, one of four eco-lodges operated by the nonprofit in western Maine.

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PROFILE by Susan Axelrod Photography by Nicole Wolf

LOOKING DOWN THE PATH

DIRECTOR CAROLANN OUELLETTE MAPS THE NEXT STEPS FOR MAINE HUTS AND TRAILS.

efore Carolann Ouellette moved to Maine to build a career in tourism and the outdoors, she did a short stint as a PanAm flight attendant. It’s hard to imagine the executive director of Maine Huts and Trails, whose resume includes several years as a whitewater rafting guide, serving cocktails in the confines of an airplane. But her father was a PanAm pilot, so after graduating from the Cornell School of Hotel Administration, Ouellette signed on to work at the glamorous, now-defunct airline, flying out of John F. Kennedy Airport in New York. “We grew up flying PanAm, finding my dad and visiting him wherever he was,” she says. “But I was definitely not cut out to be a flight attendant.” Ouellette instead came to the Maine woods. She and her family had vacationed at Attean Lake Lodge in Jackman, where her grandparents had a long history, and Ouellette eventually worked there for a few college summers. She and her family would drive up from their home in New Jersey to join them, and Ouellette worked at the lodge for a few college summers. “I thought if I could live in a cabin in the

woods off the grid, I would be the happiest person in the world,” she says. She traded in the iconic blue PanAm suit for rain pants and a lifejacket, and trained to be a whitewater rafting guide, working for Matt Polstein at what was then the New England Whitewater Center in Caratunk, now the New England Outdoor Center (NEOC) in Millinocket. Ouellette spent eight years there, eventually working on the operations side to manage reservations and food and beverage. She considers Polstein a mentor. “He taught me about big-picture things, but then bringing it right back down to your business and how it works, what the expectations are and how they shift,” she says. In 1995, she left NEOC to open a restaurant, Moose Point Tavern in Jackman, which she operated for ten years until she was asked to apply for a position at the Maine Office of Tourism. She became the agency’s director in 2011, and was credited with helping the state’s largest industry to grow, in part by developing an innovative marketing approach with targeted campaigns for different demographics. “It was a superb opportunity for me,” Ouellette says of her six years as director of

the Maine Office of Tourism. She traveled extensively, including trips overseas, and built a large network of significant contacts. “There are so many other industries that either wanted to know about tourism in Maine or wanted to try and connect in some way.” But she missed the woods of western Maine, and a call from Maine Huts and Trails board chair Bob Peixotto offered a way to return. He invited her to interview for the position vacated by former executive director Charlie Woodworth, who ran the Kingfield-based network of backcountry trails and eco-lodges for three and a half years. Ouellette came on board in January, knowing that her primary charge would be to raise the profile of the organization, going into its tenth year. “We are really at a point where there are all kinds of ways to move and forge ahead,” she says. Conceived in the 1970s by Larry Warren, who helped turn Sugarloaf into a destination and Carrabassett Valley into a town, Maine Huts and Trails counts 2018 as its tenth anniversary because the first of its four eco-lodges—Poplar Hut—opened 10 years ago. The nonprofit organization now operates 80 miles of trails, primarily on land it does not own; December 2017 71

All of the huts have a common room stocked with books and games for unplugged entertainment and relaxation. Opposite page: Flagstaff Hut is especially popular with school groups and families because of its lakeside location. Maine Huts and Trails has a robust youth education program, working with schools to provide kids with outdoor adventures and teach them about environmental stewardship.

one of Warren’s major contributions was to negotiate with landowners, including the Penobscot Nation, for easements that would allow the trails to be built. Inspired by the Appalachian Mountain Club’s trail network in the White Mountains, hut-to-hut systems in the Alps, and New Zealand’s Milford Track, a 33-mile trail with three remote huts, Maine Huts and Trails offers an accessible wilderness experience for hikers, mountain bikers, snowshoers, and cross-country skiers. Use of the well-maintained trails is free, and guests at the huts pay a modest fee for meals and overnight accommodations in simple bunkrooms. The off-the-grid huts offer light-filled common rooms with woodstoves, modern bathrooms, and commercial kitchens—all solar- or hydropowered. Within the next three to five years, Maine 72

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Huts and Trails plans to build two more huts and an additional 40 miles of trails, extending the network west toward Rangeley. A committee has already been tasked with mapping the trails and identifying landowners along the route; the next step will be to gather input from staff, members, and guests. While the design of each successive hut has evolved, Ouellette stresses the importance of staying true to Warren’s vision, as well as being good neighbors. “We want to continue to not supersede people who are running sporting camps or traditional lodging properties, so how do we tweak the model that we have already developed?” One of the organization’s long-term goals is building the next generation of environmental stewards, both youth and adults, says Ouellette. “I want us to be seen as a go-to organization for what

environmentally sensitive economic development looks like.” In addition to the composting toilets in the bathrooms— familiar to every hut visitor because of the prominently displayed posters explaining how they work—this includes using locally sourced food and supplies to reduce the carbon footprint of longdistance transportation. The quality of the food at the huts is something Ouellette plans to promote more vigorously, crediting director of operations Sarah Pine with creating sophisticated menus and nurturing relationships with local farmers. In addition to established events like the annual Harvest at the Hut, a multi-course dinner held every fall at the Stratton Brook Hut, Ouellette sees an opportunity for more food-related programming, such as cooking classes. Another goal for Ouellette is developing the

December 2017 73

PROFILE

Carolann Ouellette

From left: Ouellette on a trail near the Flagstaff Hut. Eighty miles of trails connect the four backcountry huts. Visitors to Flagstaff Hut have access to canoes, kayaks, and paddleboards to explore Flagstaff Lake. A young paddler at Flagstaff Lake.

organization’s reputation as an “employer of choice.” Maine Huts and Trails employs 11 full-time staffers year-round, plus another 20 to 24 seasonal staff who work full-time in the summer and winter—the organization’s full-service seasons. In the spring and fall, the huts are self-service: visitors can use the kitchens to cook their own meals. “Company culture has become so important in retaining good staff, showing there is room for advancement, professional development, and time for time off,” Ouellette says. Maine Huts and Trails has entered into a partnership with the Chewonki Foundation, which operates summer camps in Wiscasset. “[Chewonki president] Willard Morgan has this incredible vision of establishing a staffsharing model for seasonal nonprofits,” she says. “Some key Chewonki people could potentially apply to work at Maine Huts in the winter.” In another partnership, Maine Huts and Trails recently signed a ten-year agreement with Colby College to operate as an offsite interdisciplinary learning center, 74

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primarily for the environmental studies and economics departments. The huts offer a platform for environmental research, as well as the study of the organization itself, says Ouellette. “One of the big things is our energy system, but also environmental impact over time, and the economic development side of it, how we enhance our connectivity to communities.” Ouellette’s tourism-marketing experience is evident in her ideas for Maine Huts and Trails—she identifies an interest, such as farm-to-table cooking, and ways the organization can tap into it. “One of the things we see as having great potential for us is the whole focus on health and wellness,” she says. “We talk about Maine Huts as an outlet for outdoor recreation, but you’ve got this whole bigger piece now of healthy lifestyles, which also means spending time with family, unplugging.” Cell phones tend not to work at the huts, and their use is discouraged. “We get feedback from guests like, ‘I spent time with

my kids playing a board game,’” Ouellette says. Promoting the value of vacation is also linked to wellness. A board member of the U.S. Travel Association, Ouellette is inspired by its initiative Project: Time Off, which seeks to prove, through research, that taking vacations benefits individual and company performance. “How can we work with businesses in Maine to encourage their people to take vacation and come to a hut and just unplug?” Partnerships, community engagement, creative marketing, and memorable meals are all about making sure Maine Huts and Trails is “in the mix,” says Ouellette. “Whether it’s as a model, or a place to learn, or a place to just come visit—whatever it is that’s keeping us in the forefront and helping us grow.” After wanting to live in a cabin off the grid as a girl, Ouellette has found her happy home in the wild and beautiful mountains of western Maine, and wants to share it with the world.

One of the organizationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s long-term goals is building the next generation of environmental stewards, both youth and adults. December 2017 75

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COMPETITION IS FIERCE AT THE WINTERKIDS DOWNHILL 24â&#x20AC;&#x201D; ESPECIALLY FOR RAISING MONEY.

Participants in the 2017 WinterKids Downhill 24, the Ski Your Buns Off team, ride a lift at Sugarloaf. The bunny and carrot costumes were not only fun; they provided an extra layer of warmth against the bitter cold. December 2017 79

at Sugarloaf, and an arctic wind whirls in icy gusts outside the base lodge, where the temperature hovers several degrees below zero. Most Loafers are in bed on this early Sunday morning, but a number of skiers are still on the mountain, where temporary lights along the wide Lower Narrow Gauge trail illuminate the blowing snow. Wearing extra layers, neoprene facemasks, white bibs, and timing chips, they race down the trail, some of them barely slowing at the bottom to get back on the chairlift for another run. These diehards, members of teams with names like the Powdah 11s and Who Kneeds Hamstrings?, have been skiing since 9 a.m. Saturday and will keep at it until the same time this morning. They are intensely competitive—vying for the fastest time and the most runs—but the primary reason they are on the mountain in the cold and dark is a philanthropic one. By 5 a.m., participants in the fifth-annual WinterKids Downhill 24 will have raised $267,000 for WinterKids, an organization with a simple purpose: to help Maine children develop healthy habits by getting them outside in the winter. “It’s a long season and our most sedentary season,” says WinterKids executive director Julie Mulkern. “We did not coin this phrase, but we are firm believers that there is no bad weather, only bad clothing.” While the organization’s programs are focused on physical activities, there is also an emphasis on getting children away from screens and connected to the outdoor environment. “Kids can identify over 1,000 corporate logos, but they can’t identify ten plants or animals native to their communities,” Mulkern says, quoting a report by the U.S. Department of the Interior’s Bureau of Land Management, which is cited in 80

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WinterKids literature. Carla Marcus, a former Sugarloaf ski patroller and children’s health advocate, founded WinterKids in 1997 as a learnto-ski program. Called WinterKids Passport and sponsored by the statewide trade organization Ski Maine, it offered free lift tickets and lessons to Maine fifth graders. The passport has been expanded to include sixth and seventh graders and a booklet of free and discounted tickets

to a variety of winter activities, including ice skating, tubing, snowshoeing, sledding, and dog sledding, in addition to cross-country and downhill skiing. Preschool to fourth-grade kids have their own version, the WinterKids FunPass, which allows them to try snowshoeing and cross-country skiing at no cost. “Carla saw the bigger picture and how we could broadly affect many more kids with outdoor physical activity options in addition to skiing,” says Mulkern. “In two

Wearing their race bibs and timing chips, skiers wait to board the lift for another run. Sugarloaf’s Lower Narrow Gauge trail was temporarily lit for the 24-hour event.

decades, 75,000 kids have had a WinterKids passport, and we are rolling out a native phone app for families and our winter sports partners in 2018.” WinterKids also works with schools in Maine and parts of New Hampshire to provide preschool and elementary school teachers with specific guidelines for

incorporating physical activity into their lesson plans. The organization’s Guide to Outdoor Active Learning (GOAL) is aligned with educational standards in both states, as well as with the Common Core. Schools are also encouraged to participate in the WinterKids Challenge, in which students and teachers agree to complete at least three GOAL activities per winter.

The organization focuses particularly on schools in Maine’s poorer, rural areas. “The first year of the WinterKids Challenge, physical activity across the board increased by 64 percent,” says Mulkern. “That’s huge—and these are kids who do not usually go outside.” In January 2018, one elementary school December 2017 81

The sun lengthens the shadow of a solo Sugarloaf skier. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: WinterKids executive director Julie Mulkern. Young skiers brightly bundled up for a lesson. WinterKids racers carve a turn. The three bunnies get set for another run.

from each of Maine’s 16 counties will compete in a new initiative, the WinterKids Winter Games. Schools can earn points for successfully completing a variety of activities focused on movement and nutrition. The top three schools win cash, and the three runners-up win prizes, such as winter equipment for the school. While the passport programs remain popular, the partnerships with schools have helped WinterKids to exponentially increase its impact. When Mulkern became executive director nearly eight years ago, the organization was reaching about 300 kids in schools. “Collectively, this year when all is said and done we will have reached 23,000 across all programs, half of which are in school,” she says. “And what’s notable about that is that we have four staff, but we know how strategic we need to be and we’re very efficient.” Mulkern also touts WinterKids’s robust board of directors, some of whom are participating in the Downhill 24. Longtime board member Will Stiles (board president 82

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from 2016 to 2017), an attorney with Verrill Dana in Portland, has skied in all five of the annual events. A veteran Sugarloafer, he was instrumental in moving the Downhill 24 from Mt. Abram to Sugarloaf in 2016. “Mt. Abram was the right place to start it, but as the event grew larger, we realized that we would need more on-mountain accommodations to meet the increased demand,” Stiles says. At Mt. Abram, some skiers slept in tents or on picnic tables between runs. “Our first year, we raised $45,000, the second year was $55,000, and the third year was $70,000,” he says. “Last year when we moved it here we raised $222,000, and it was a game-changer for our organization.” On this bitterly cold March weekend, 58 teams are participating in the Downhill 24, raising money via donations on a crowdfunding website. Even before they stepped into their ski boots, the competition was fierce, which Stiles used to up the ante. “I would see two teams that were $50 apart, and if I didn’t know them I would email

them and say, ‘Hi, I’m Will Stiles, the board president. I want to introduce you to so and so, they’re $50 behind you and coming up fast,’” he says, laughing. “It’s amazing to see what happens when you do that.” Jeff Zachau of Zachau Construction in Freeport is known as one of the most competitive participants, along with Dan Cook of Allied Cook Construction in Scarborough. The two teams have been neck-and-neck in terms of fundraising, and at one point earlier in the evening, the men were interviewed by a local TV station about the rivalry. “We get involved in other things as a company, but this one’s fun,” says Zachau. “It’s not a golf tournament, not an auction.” A loyal Sugarloafer, Zachau refused Stiles’s request to participate in the WinterKids Downhill until it was moved to his home mountain. “The first thing he said to me was, ‘I’m in and I’m going to beat you,’” recalls Stiles. “And he did.” In 2016, Zachau won the King of the Mountain award for the best combined finish in fundraising and ski racing.

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Most teams ski in shifts, making sure that at least one member is on the mountain at all times with the timing chip strapped around a leg. Around the King Pine Room inside the Sugarloaf base lodge, skiers who don’t have a bed nearby doze in sleeping bags against the walls, while others sit at tables drinking coffee and munching on energy bars, getting ready to head back out. Stiles’s two sons, 15-year-old Eli and 11-year-old Ethan Rapkin-Stiles, and their all-kids team, the Gnar’Easters, are among the hardcore skiers who insist on going all night. “I pulled the kids aside and said, ‘You know, it’s going to be negative 12 tonight and windy, so we really want you guys off the mountain at midnight—you can go back at five or six in the morning,’” Stiles says. “They said, ‘We want to see if we can do this.’ I spent the night making sure that they were OK—I didn’t get much sleep.’” When the 24 hours are up, weary yet upbeat skiers pile into the base lodge for breakfast, stripping off layers, a few men pulling chunks of ice from their beards. The 10 a.m. awards ceremony is supposed to be outside, but due to the temperature, it’s moved into the Widowmaker Lounge. The less serious awards are first. The Rising Tide Brewing Company team wins the award for most team spirit, while the Ski Your Buns Off team—four bunnies that followed one carrot down the mountain—wins Best Team Costumes. Stiles himself wins for Best One Piece Ski Suit—an ’80s-era neon pink and green number that he topped with an afro wig. He’s also one of three to get the award for Best Trash Talker. Handed the mic, Stiles calls out the team appropriately named the All Nighters. The seven guys didn’t take shifts; they all skied for all 24 hours, each clocking 72 runs. A team of eight kids, the Droppin’ Franklins, wins for Youngest Team with the Most Runs—71. When it comes time for the podium awards, the two construction companies and their owners are close. Team Allied Cook raised the most money—$34,590—but Dan Cook gets the silver ski boot trophy for individual fundraising. Team Zachau raised $29,336, while Jeff Zachau takes the top step on the podium, proudly holding the gold boot aloft. Another team—the Powdah 11s—tops them both to win King of the Mountain. They cluster around the podium wearing matching hockey jerseys with “Powdah” on the back and “Chiefs” on the front. “Our team tries to do this every year, but we don’t do it because we want to get up here and hold this trophy,” says team frontman

Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Members of the Droppin’ Franklins team. Longtime WinterKids board member and past president Will Stiles. Casey Hilfrank, Jeff Zachau of Zachau Construction, and Tom Fremont-Smith of Winterstick Snowboards share a laugh in Sugarloaf’s Widowmaker Lounge. This page: Members of the Powdah 11s, the winners of the King of the Mountain award for the best combined finish in fundraising and ski racing.

Philip Alan of Salem, Massachusetts. “We try because all of us have kids, and we love to take them out and hit the mountain. Everyone’s family deserves to do what we do.”

24 raised $273,126 (later increased to $283,000). Added to this, Tom FremontSmith of Winterstick Snowboards announces that he will donate one percent of his profits for 2017 to WinterKids.

Before the big reveal of the fundraising total, Stiles takes the mic again to thank Sugarloaf and present a check for $12,312 to the Sugarloaf Regional Charitable Trust as a second beneficiary of this year’s event. The kids from Droppin’ Franklins come back on stage holding white boards that one by one they lift above their heads to reveal that this year’s WinterKids Downhill

By the time everyone files out of the Widowmaker, a regular crowd of Sugarloaf skiers is on the mountain, taking their first runs of the day in the bright, late-winter sun. Among them are more than a few white WinterKids race bibs, worn by Sugarloaf diehards who can always find time and energy for one more run. December 2017 85

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MILESTONE MILER IN ITS 35TH YEAR, THE OLDEST CONTINUOUSLY RUN MARATHON IN THE STATE IS FAMOUSLY DOWNHILL, ESPECIALLY IN THOSE END MILES WHEN RUNNERS OF THE 15K RACE JOIN IN AND FOLLOW THE VALLEY ROAD ALONG THE CARRABASSETT RIVER TO KINGFIELD.

BY SANDY LANG PHOTOGRAPHY BY PETER FRANK EDWARDS

A warm-up run on the trail at Cathedral Pines Pathways in Eustis. Opposite page: Running into Carrabassett Valley with Bigelow Range views all the way at the Sugarloaf Mararathon.

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At 4:30 a.m. the alarm starts its tune. It’s May and the weather has been wacky. We’re up in typically cool mountain climes, but the thermometer reached the 90s a couple days ago. It’s been a weather rollercoaster lately. On this dawning day, just as light is coming across the Sugarloaf peaks, the air is in the 30s. I make hot oatmeal and step outside to test the warmth of my gear. Leg warmers and an extra shirt are needed on the way to the starting line. To get there, I join the sleepy crowd wearing sweatshirts and pinned-on race numbers in the lobby at the Sugarloaf Mountain Hotel. In turn, we board a fleet of school buses that is picking up runners for the Sugarloaf Marathon and 15K. Each takes passengers to either the marathon’s start at Cathedral Pines Campground in Eustis, or the 15K’s start at Ayotte’s Country Store in Carrabassett Valley. It’s my first time at this mountain race, and I’m here for the 15K, which joins the marathon route for the last 9.3 miles as runners make their way from the store to a park in downtown Kingfield. While everyone’s warming up with short jogs or stretching, I hear the steady rumble of an engine and watch as a small biplane rises up from the valley’s regional airport across the street. The sky is bright and clear, and I realize that I’m lucky to be bouncing around trying to keep warm early in the morning in a parking lot with mountain views. Known as a beautiful and fast route with plenty of downhill sections, this increasingly popular run sold out in preregistration. The 1,600 participants for 2017 arrived from 41 states, plus Canada and Guatemala, and the number of runners here for the weekend is just shy of the number of year-round residents in the towns where we’ll run the final miles, Carrabassett Valley and Kingfield. 90

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Bigelow Range, located north of Sugarloaf Mountain.

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This year’s Sugarloaf Marathon and 15K attracted participants from 41 states, plus Canada and Guatemala. Opposite page, clockwise from top: Olympic champion Joan Benoit Samuelson and Michael Westphal have each been running races since high school meets in Maine. Springtime green grass and budding trees were the backdrop of the 35th running of the Sugarloaf Marathon in May. With morning sun pouring across Flagstaff Lake, runners at the start of the Sugarloaf Marathon.

CATHEDRAL WALK, VALLEY STOPS, AND NACHOS Arriving the day before the race to pick up my race number and t-shirt, I immediately set out in the sunshine to do some exploring with photographer Peter Frank Edwards along the marathon route, which follows the main road through the valley. Outdoor adventure possibilities dot Route 27 for dozens of miles, including at Sugarloaf and a segment of the Appalachian Trail. At the village of Stratton we follow along the shoreline of Flagstaff Lake and the snaking causeway that crosses the reservoir lake— near the boat landing and access point for the Northern Forest Canoe Trail—and we continue the drive into a wooded area in Eustis where the trees are so tall that the road looks like a tunnel of shade. Finally, a little more than 26 miles from Kingfield, we reach the starting point at the Cathedral Pines Campground. Several other cars have pulled over here, too, and I notice many running-garbwearing passengers wandering about just like us. Some are inspecting a history marker about Benedict Arnold’s pre-traitorera stop when he rested his army here in 92

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the 1770s on the way to an attack on Quebec City. A trailhead across the street is where I want to head next. The two-mile loop is Cathedral Pines Pathways, and it’s no misnomer. Mature red pines tower straight up toward the sky, and the trail surface is unpaved, naturally cushioned forest floor. I immediately know that it will be a perfect surface for running. So I change shoes and go for a short jog, happy to be alone with my pre-race thoughts and surrounded by such majestic trees and quiet. All the while, I’m breathing deeply for more of the piney, energizing air. On the return to Carrabassett Valley, we stop at the busy Mountainside Grocers for peanut butter, oatmeal, and bananas to add to the coffee I’ve brought for breakfast. The place is packed with more of the running crowd, and everyone’s walking the aisles looking eager to find something—sports drinks, bagels, or whatever else is each person’s ritual, before-the-race foods. Some runners eat nothing in the morning, but I’ll have to have something wholesome for energy. At least that’s what I tell myself as I make my purchases. A couple hours later, after we notice a band

playing on the deck at the Sugar Bowl, my prerace food regimen gets more lenient. We end up ordering nachos and eating every last cheese-dripping chip from a platter-sized, piled-high plateful, along with a couple of pints of Shipyard beer. I’m still mulling over whether nachos and beer were a good choice to fuel me for the run when I talk with Casey Hoatson, 29, whose family had shared an order, too. She casually mentions that she’ll be running the marathon. (I’m vindicated!) Her dad and brother, Tom and Zack Hoatson, are the two musicians who are finishing a rendition of “Free Bird” with guitar solos and the famously long song’s crescendos. Her mother, Kim Hoatson, is also there, and tells me that the family has owned a house for several years off the Sugarloaf Access Road that they use for active weekend pursuits including skiing, snowboarding, and trips year-round. “It’s the best place on the planet,” Casey says, and then talks of Tufulio’s Restaurant, another favorite food and drink place in the valley that they’d also like to get to that night. “Dad, you can’t play much longer,” she calls out. “We’ve got marathon runners who need to eat dinner!”

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“The Race” is what Carrabassett Valley town manager Dave Cota calls it. He’s run it about 15 times and says the Sugarloaf Marathon is practically a rite of spring for the community.

SUGARLOAF SPRINGS FOR IT “The Race,” is what Carrabassett Valley town manager Dave Cota calls it. He’s run it about 15 times with his sister, Jeanine Cota May, brother, Ken Cota, and other family and friends. And he says it’s practically a rite of spring for the community. Just as the fruit trees are blossoming in orchards and meadows, and the tulips are blooming in the yards of historic houses in Kingfield, the weekend crowd of visiting runners gives a boost to the local economy between the ski season and summertime. Local residents dig in and help to make it all happen each year. Sugarloaf and its employees join with individual volunteers, businesses, local schools, clubs, and organizations to pull the Sugarloaf Marathon and 15K together. That includes dozens of people from the towns of Carrabassett Valley, Eustis, and Kingfield who spend the day before the race picking up trash from both sides of the road along the entire 26.2-mile race length. “The clean-up effort itself has become a big community gathering,” he explains. “As many as 60 volunteers clean up the roadside and then celebrate with a barbecue at the Carrabassett Valley Town Park that afternoon.” In all, Cota says, it’s a great community event that brings hundreds of people to the area to race, “and for what may be their first trip to the western Maine mountains.” Tom Butler, the director of skier services at Sugarloaf, is another fan of the event. He has run in the 15K before and says the course is memorable and spectacular, especially since runners get so many views along the Carrabassett River, which he notes is “wicked pretty” in May. The course includes some of his personal favorite spots and stretches on Route 27, he says, including what locals call the “dancing tree” that bends over the river, a seasonal waterfall along the rock face at the Ira Mountain bridge, the Kingfield town sign, and “the evil little incline” just past the DOT lot around mile eight of the 15K. Michael Westphal, who ran the 15K, and marathoner Joan Benoit Samuelson at the finish line. They ran together to raise money and awareness for the Michael J. Fox Foundation for Parkinson’s Research. Opposite page, from left: Admiring the race ribbon and medal. Leah Frost of Portland was the day’s fastest female finisher in the marathon with a time of 2:49:54. (P.J. Gorneault of Caribou earned the top prize for men.)

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RUNNING IN SUN, WITH STARS I’ll get to know the sting of that final hill during my own running of the 15K. My strategy is to lean forward for as much free fall as possible during the elevationdescending run—the finish is touted as about 300 feet lower than the start. And every time there’s a table of volunteers handing out water and Gatorade, I make a point to slow down enough to take a cup and at least have a tiny sip. This is both to hydrate and to give me incremental goals. I’ve run 10Ks and a few half-marathon races, but haven’t tried the much less common race length of 9.3 miles before. My goal isn’t speed, but to have a good time and to finish feeling good. Along the way, besides enjoying the scenery that’s glinting and warming up in the sunshine, I get into the rhythm of running with a line of other runners of all shapes, sizes, and ages. I also think of the superior Maine runners who gathered even earlier this morning, under the tall pines for the

marathon’s start. Olympic gold medal marathoner Joan Benoit Samuelson is in that group, and she’s celebrating her 60th birthday by running with marathoner Michael Westphal, who’s also turning 60. The two have been friends for decades. They both grew up on Maine’s coast and became friends through Westphal’s sister, Joan Westphal, also an excellent runner. “He was a track standout,” Benoit Samuelson says, “and his sister was my biggest competitor.” Westphal, who runs even though he faces the challenges of Parkinson’s disease, explains that when Benoit Samuelson saw that he was running again in the Boston Marathon in 2016, she said, “I’ve never run a marathon in Maine, and when I do, I want it to be with you.” At Sugarloaf, an injury kept him from being ready for the marathon, so he opted to run the 15K portion while raising money and awareness for the Michael J. Fox Foundation for Parkinson’s Research,

something he’s done through a series of runs. Meanwhile, even though “Joanie” is a familiar face on personal training runs on Maine’s southern coast and at the TD Beach to Beacon race that she helped found in Cape Elizabeth, it’s the elite runner’s first-ever marathon in Maine, and she’s also running it to help raise funds for the Michael J. Fox Foundation. I’m inspired by this friendship and by Westphal’s determination. He’s living his life to the fullest. In the post-race festivities at a grassy field in Kingfield, his smile and warmth quickly make any tremors caused by Parkinson’s irrelevant as he greets new friends and old. A few yards away, I have the chance to meet the fastest woman in the marathon, Leah Frost from Portland, who tells me that she and her partner camped the night before. “We froze in a tent in Cathedral Pines, and I didn’t get much sleep,” she says, adding that it was 32 degrees at the Eustis start. “But it’s beautiful here. It was worth it.” December 2017 97

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KINGFIELD’S ARTFUL FINISH After returning to the Sugarloaf condo to change clothes, I want to see some more of Kingfield before we head home. I’m still wearing my race medal when we get to Longfellow’s Restaurant and sit for a lunch of lobster rolls and a Thai quinoa salad on the sunny deck overlooking the rushing Carrabassett River—a couple of people are fly fishing out there. Also in town, we step into Red Barn Upcycled Market that’s at one end of the blue-painted, circa-1918 Herbert Grand Hotel and check out the interesting wares, including antique silver, sap buckets, earrings fashioned from found feathers, and sparkling necklaces made with pieces of chandeliers.

warmth and comfort

Then we notice the barn door open at the Stadler Gallery on Main Street and stop to have a look. Owner and artist Ulrike Stadler greets us and explains the gallery won’t officially open until June, but that we’re welcome to look around while she and her intern, Kingfield native Tatiana Maxsimic, are busy with some organizing (Stadler) and painting (Maxsimic). Stadler is a petite presence in the massive wooden barn filled with precisely stacked woodpiles and sketches, sculptures, and tall paintings of people, landscapes, and flowers. Born in Germany, she tells us in a still-thick accent that she moved first to New York City in the 1960s and then to Maine in the 1980s to create her works here in this commodious barn in Kingfield.

and joy to all . . .

It’s a finish of a different sort to end the running trip with fine art, but as we drive off, I consider that in a span of two days and 40 degrees around Sugarloaf, I’ve run in the Cathedral woods and along a river valley with hundreds of other people from across the country, and then stood looking at Stadler’s art while the barn doors and windows are open wide to the fresh mountain air. What a terrific way to celebrate spring, invigorated from physical exertion and inspired to keep waking up early and following dreams. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: During post-race exploring in Kingfield, a visit to the Stadler Gallery in a historic barn on Main Street. Ulrike Stadler has been creating art and curating exhibits of contemporary works at the gallery since the 1980s. Lunch on the Carrabasset Riverfacing deck at Longfellow’s Restaurant (yellow building at left).

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Welcome Home

Two longtime Sugarloafers design a rustic yet contemporary getaway for entertaining, future grandchildren, and two sweet Great Danes. by Katy Kelleher Photography by Erin Little

Peter and Kayla Kohler love to entertain at their Sugarloaf mountain house. Peter built this 14-foot-long, live-edge table to accommodate their many guests. Kayla frequently hosts supper parties that can stretch from three courses to nine. Opposite page: The house was designed to optimize views of the mountain, with big windows and an upside-down floor plan (the kitchen, living room, dining room, and ownersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; bedroom are all located on the second story, while the first story is devoted to guest bedrooms and the garage).

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eter Kohler fondly remembers the winter weekends of his childhood, days of floury snow and thrilling speed. His family started visiting Sugarloaf in the early 1960s, back when T-bar lifts dominated and brown-bag lunches were standard. His family’s accommodations were similarly bare-bones. “We didn’t have our own place at first, so we would go up and stay with our cousins,” he says. “It was a two-bedroom, one-bath camp with a loft. And there were four adults and nine kids in that camp—we just piled into that loft like sardines.” It was cramped, but it was also cozy. “I’ve been back as an adult, and it amazes me how two full families grew up in this little place on the weekends,” he says. “I have no idea how my parents did it.” Peter continued visiting the Carrabassett Valley ski resort throughout high school and college. In later years, his training to be an eye surgeon took him to Vermont and then Kansas City, but he never forgot the mountain of his childhood. He eventually settled in Belgrade, and in 2015, over 50 years after he first sprayed powder on the winding trails, he decided to create his own ideal vacation home at the base of Sugarloaf. When I arrive at the contemporary cabin, located a short drive from the mountain on Forest Lane, the first thing Peter does is offer to make one of his signature cocktails. His wife, Kayla, is putting a tray of chocolate chip cookies into the oven, and although I haven’t planned on drinking, I decide it can’t hurt to taste. While Kayla works in the kitchen, Peter begins mixing his Loaf House Manhattan (with a sprig of spruce and a splash of Kohler’s secret ingredient) and I take a seat at the kitchen island (which glows slightly in the dusk, lit from below with LED landscaping lights).

This, I quickly learn, is exactly how the couple prefers to entertain. They let their guests hang loose and chat while they go to work in the kitchen (her) or at the bar (him). “We designed everything together, pretty much from scratch,” Peter says as he shakes and pours. “After using it for a season, we already know that we wouldn’t change a single thing. It’s just perfect for us.” Unlike the cabins of his youth, this twostory house is built primarily for adult entertaining and enjoyment. (It does

feature a small loft over the living room, should a surplus of grandkids show up someday.) “We designed an open-concept floor plan and gave it to our builder, Merv Wilson,” says Peter. “The two of us knew in our minds how we wanted the house to flow, and he brought in his engineering expertise to make sure it would work in 3D.” Since they both love to have guests over for dinner parties—Kayla has started a popular Supper Club series at Sugarloaf—they created a large kitchen with a six-burner stove, two ovens, and a long granite-topped island that gives Kayla space to work (and her December 2017 103

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Opposite page: Peter lights a fire in their custom-built fireplace, which was based on a sketch of the mountain done by his son. The lighter stones represent ski trails. This page, from left: Although rustic in decor, the house features modern amenities like this steam room shower. Kayla gets ready to host an earlyfall dinner party.

company space to relax, drink, and observe the progress happening in the kitchen). An abnormally large walk-in pantry— complete with a refrigerator, microwave, and countertop space—gives Kayla plenty of room to do prep work (plus the option to close the pantry doors and hide any cooking mess from her guests). Kayla says they were hoping the island bar would allow guests to “sit at the bar, watch me cook and talk, but not get in the way,” she says. She rolls up her sleeves, pulls the fresh-baked cookies out of the oven, and laughs. “It doesn’t always work that way,” the semi-professional chef and part-time caterer admits. “People always end up in the kitchen. It’s where most people like to be.” While the kitchen is the undisputed heart of the home, the living and dining rooms

are also mighty inviting. Long, low-slung couches provide seating during cocktail hour or after supper club has adjourned. The plush sofas are centered around a custom-built fireplace, which is made from local stone and features a mosaic of the snow-capped mountain based on a drawing by Peter’s son, Ryan Kohler, who works as an oil painter in Skowhegan. Nearby, a liveedge, 14-foot-long dining table occupies a place of honor near the windows. (The living area, kitchen, dining room, and owners’ suite are located on the second floor, which optimizes views of the nearby mountain.) “I built that great big table from one single piece of pine,” Peter says. “She can cook these amazing nine-course meals, which last three hours, and everyone has space at that table.” Kayla blushes slightly when her husband sings the praises of her

cooking (particularly her peel-and-eat garlic lemon shrimp), but she too adores the rustic setup. “That’s my favorite part of the whole house—that table,” she says. “We always want to have space for family and friends to eat with us. Always.” While most of their parties take place upstairs—and occasionally end on the second-story covered deck, which boasts a cedar-sided hot tub—the first story was also designed with guests in mind. “The goal was to have our kids coming, and someday, they can bring their kids up,” says Peter. “And so we made the lower level a two-bedroom apartment with a bath and kitchenette with a sink, stove, and refrigerator.” There’s also a game room for days when the cold winds of the Carrabassett Valley get too bitter for young skiers to brave. December 2017 105

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The kitchen was designed to give Kayla plenty of space to cook while keeping her guests at a slight distance. (The island serves as a barrier between the chef and the party. Tucked in the back is a pantry where Kayla can store all her prepped items and stash away any unsightly messes.)

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Opposite page, clockwise from top: Every dinner at the Kohlers’ house is different, and Kayla draws inspiration from a variety of sources to create her menus. The supper club series typically includes nine courses and features one seating for the night. Peter serves as the bartender for these events; he likes to put his own spin on classic martinis and mixed drinks. Here, Kayla has prepared a decadent brunch for visiting friends. The couple’s two big dogs have their own sleeping quarters. This day their daughter’s dog joins the pair. A sliding barn door adds yet another rustic touch to this mountain getaway. This page: The couple has been coming to Sugarloaf for years, and they’ve made quite a few friends in the area. They also frequently host out-of-town visitors, and someday, they hope to have grandkids running around downstairs.

In addition to designing for future grandkids, the couple made space in their floor plans to accommodate their two Great Danes. After ascending the stairs to the Kohlers’ main living area, I was greeted by two large velvet-snouted heads peeking over a half-door. Margarita and Reggie are eager to say hello, but after they’ve

welcomed me into their mountain hangout, they retreat to their bed. “I know it’s kind of unique to have a bedroom just for our dogs, but we love them,” says Peter. The dogs’ room is a rather quirky detail, but not only does it keep the pups out of the way during parties, it also fits with this couple’s relaxed lifestyle. There is space in the house for

everyone—adult, child, and canine. “We like having a crowd around,” says Peter. “And when people come to visit, they often say, ‘We think this is the best place at Sugarloaf.’ I like to think that’s true.”

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COPLIN DINNER HOUSE PUTTING DOWN ROOTS IN THE SUGARLOAF AREA

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EAT by Karen Watterson Photography by Nicole Wolf

Opposite page: The old front porch of the farmhouse is now enclosed and a popular area to enjoy dinner. This page: The chickens spend five weeks outside in portable coops, allowing them to feast on fresh grass daily.

On a sweltering day in August, Sadie, a Portuguese water dog, greets me as I pull off Carrabassett Road in Coplin Plantation. Her enthusiastic welcome is matched by that of her owners, Heidi Donovan and Tony Rossi. They are waiting for me by the barn at the farm adjacent to their restaurant, the Coplin Dinner House. Donovan and Rossi purchased the six acres next to the restaurant property in December 2016, and have now become animal farmers as well as restaurateurs. While Sadie rolls in the grass, the couple give me a tour. Just outside the small barn, there are six Boer kids, a breed of goat used for meat. Nearby five black guinea hogs, a heritage breed, are cooling off in the mud. “The goats are a little afraid of the pigs,” says Donovan. “The pigs can be very vocal.” Today, though, they seem more interested in the visitors than intimidating the goats. “I’ve never used them before,” Rossi says, “but I understand they have very tasty meat.” Another group of happy, hungry pigs in a different pen, gathered around a feeder and water tank, runs to meet the couple when

they’re called. “We bring them restaurant scraps like corn husks and broccoli stalks every day,” explains Rossi. Just beyond the pigs are portable chicken coops filled with small white broilers, feasting on grass. “This will be some of the tastiest chicken you’ve ever had,” Rossi says. The couple had little farming experience before this summer, picking up most of their knowledge from books and websites. “I was in 4H as a child and showed cows, but this is very different,” says Donovan. They have a caring but business-like approach to the farm and its animals, seeing it as a natural extension of the restaurant. Along the edge of the property, several peach trees are just starting to bear fruit. And next to the restaurant, a large vegetable garden offers up several types of squash, tomatoes, carrots, and loads of herbs. “Having this saves a lot of money,” Rossi says. “And people bring us things from their own gardens, too.” Today, Sue Donovan, Heidi’s mother, has come from Portland to work in the garden

and take care of the couple’s two children. Sporting a wide-brimmed hat and carrying a big bucket, she tells me, “It’s much more fun to do someone else’s garden.” Behind us, a wooden coop houses a small flock of bantam chickens, providing eggs for the restaurant. You might find a few of the hens wandering in the yard and parking lot as well. Fittingly, the Coplin Dinner House was originally a farmhouse, built in 1896 as part of the largest dairy farm in the area. Rossi and Donovan had been looking to open their own restaurant, on or off the mountain, when they found the house, not far from their own home. The back door was open, and as they wandered through the abandoned building, they envisioned their dream, pointing out where the bar might go and how the porch could hold dining tables. They purchased the place in 2012 out of foreclosure. Financing was hard to come by, as banks didn’t believe diners would venture to the tiny town. “In the summer, most of our business comes from Rangeley,” says

December 2017 115

A THOROUGH RENOVATION BROUGHT NEW LIFE TO THE OLD FARMHOUSE, WHILE MAINTAINING ITS CHARM, CHARACTER, AND OLD-HOUSE FEEL.

From left: An 18-ounce “cowboy steak” with fried potato sticks is your reward at the end of an active day outdoors. Cocktails are crafted with Maine spirits and fresh, seasonal ingredients. Sweet and salty Brussels sprouts, accented with crispy pancetta, are hard to resist. Opposite page: Owners Heidi Donovan and Tony Rossi have embraced the farming lifestyle as an integral part of their restaurant.

Rossi. “And in the winter, it’s skiers from Sugarloaf and lots of snowmobilers. There are trails right behind the restaurant.” There was plenty of hard work before the couple could open the restaurant. Before they could even begin renovating, they had to have the building rezoned for commercial use, an excruciating, red-tape-laden process. A thorough renovation brought new life to the old farmhouse, while maintaining its charm, character, and old-house feel. Historic shades of yellow, gray, and lavender cover the walls in the two dining areas and a separate “pantry” room that seats six for private dining. The host area was previously a kitchen, and the new kitchen used to be the garage. The porch, now enclosed and winterized, has a casual feel, with oversized photographs of fresh produce by local photographer John Orcutt. The old wood storeroom has become a snug barroom, known as the Tigerlily Pub, with an L-shaped bar and a few copper-topped tables. An enormous dark wood-framed mirror nearly covers one wall, a piece that once belonged to Rossi’s mother. Behind the bar, her mantel has been repurposed as a shelf for liquor

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bottles. “People like to eat in here, too. It’s more diners than drinkers,” says Rossi. “The sunset is gorgeous from these windows.” The couple has been resourceful in furnishing the restaurant, buying secondhand Windsor chairs and reupholstering bar stools. The effect is comfortable and appealingly informal, making one feel right at home. There’s even a screen door that slams shut, just like it would at any farmhouse. Donovan welcomes diners as they enter the Coplin Dinner House, but she also tends bar, waits tables, and handles restaurant operations. Rossi is the chef, a role he’s played in restaurants all over the state, including in Boothbay, Gardiner, and Portland, where he worked at the acclaimed Back Bay Grill. He and Donovan met when they were both working at Gepetto’s, a longtime Sugarloaf institution. They moved on to the Shipyard Brew Haus where, in the off-season, they ran a series of locavore dinners. “We’d have 30 to 40 people come for a six-course dinner,” says Rossi. “Everything was grown or sourced locally, and we had Maine wines. The dinners were a big hit.”

The chef uses that experience as a basis for the menu at Coplin Dinner House. “I’ve never been able to define my food,” he says. “The menu changes every day, due to what’s growing or what’s in the market. I’m always trying something new, fooling around with dishes.” Right now, he’s experimenting with slow-braised chicken shawarma. “We get you to come back by always changing the menu,” says Donovan. Rossi, with help from chef de cuisine Jeff Fraser, presents an extensive roster of dishes each night that range from escargot in puff pastry and harissa beef wontons to rack of lamb and baked stuffed lobster. The sweet and salty Brussels sprouts with crispy pancetta are a major crowd-pleaser, as are porcini mushroom sacchetti, little pasta “purses” in sage brown butter. Server Steve White tells me that diners always order extra bread just to get every last bit of that butter. The mushroom bruschetta uses locally foraged chanterelles two ways—in puree and seared on top of soft goat cheese. Toasted almonds add a pleasant crunch factor, and an orange balsamic glaze brings it all together. Another starter of grilled pork belly is tender and

tempting, highly flavored with hoisin sauce and chili aioli, accompanied by crisp pickled vegetables. Main course offerings are generous; chances are good you’ll have enough left over for lunch tomorrow. There’s an 18-ounce bonein “cowboy steak,” served atop mashed root vegetables and piled high with irresistible fried potato sticks. The meat is fabulously flavorful, accented with a savory red wine sauce. Pasta and seafood lovers take great pleasure in the scallops carbonara, a creamy, decadent dish that includes applewoodsmoked bacon. The dish is accompanied by sautéed snap peas, brought to the door of the kitchen this morning by a neighbor. “These are hearty meals for active people hiking, skiing, or snowshoeing all day,” says White. When you’ve worked up an appetite, outdoors or inside, you’re going to want dessert, and with the recent addition of pastry chef Lisa Cabral, there are some very enticing options. We share a fresh, rumsoaked doughnut, topped with house-made Baileys and Oreo ice cream and fudge sauce, a heavenly treat. And we watch enviously as a server brings out a sundae glass filled with rhubarb and blueberry cobbler with ginger ice cream, a candle stuck in the center,

and wishes a diner a happy birthday. The relaxed ambiance encourages guests to order dessert, or maybe another drink, and linger a little longer. The restaurant offers a variety of dining specials throughout the week, including a $32 twofer menu on Wednesdays and a wellpriced three-course menu every evening. Thursday nights are pub nights, with halfprice specials and other offers on food and drink. The pub menu is a compendium of bar favorites such as tacos, grilled meatloaf, sandwiches, and a Maine lobster roll. Local beers go well with Rossi’s pub food, with several on tap and more in cans. Small-batch Maine spirits and seasonal ingredients are used in cocktails, like the refreshing summer mojito made with Rusticator Rum from Gouldsboro blended with fresh strawberry, rhubarb, and mint. The wine list has evolved since the restaurant opened, taking customer feedback into consideration as well as suggestions from distributors and staff. The staff at the Coplin Dinner House is made up of people who have made Sugarloaf their home for decades. “They’re all professionals,” says Donovan. “We don’t have

to teach anyone to open a bottle of wine. And they know practically everyone and their grandchildren by name.” The affable White, sporting a blue Sugarloaf belt, tells me he came here in the 1960s as a schoolteacher. He then realized there was more money in working on the mountain and in restaurants, and has been doing so ever since. “The employees are a tight group,” Donovan says. “There’s no drama, no nonsense. They’re the most important part of our business.” The Coplin Dinner House is most certainly a reflection of the kind of people Rossi and Donovan are—laid-back and low-key but committed to quality and service. They understand the Sugarloaf community, having been an integral part of it for so many years. “The farm is a big deal for us,” Donovan says. “The results will come down the road. It’ll be interesting to see in five years.” Establishing the farm is a further commitment to the area and to the restaurant’s future. We look forward to watching it grow. The Coplin Dinner House 8252 Carrabassett Rd. | Stratton 207.246.0016 coplindinnerhouse.com

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we Love gifts that can be Shared.

URBAN SUGAR DONUTS BY KAREN WATTERSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICOLE WOLF

Sugarloaf Base Lodge | Carrabassett Valley | 207.747.8823 urbansugarcafe.com indoors gave Urban Sugar a chance to expand the menu, offering even more delectable, bite-size doughnuts. That size is appealing for a number of reasons, Sandes explains. “When you open a box of our doughnuts, it’s like a celebration, it’s festive. The small size encourages sharing. And when they’re small, you can try several different flavors,” he says. Doughnuts are all fried to order, and that takes them out of the fast food realm. Skiers, and others in search of a sweet treat, follow the scent of sugar to the little cafe, where Sandes, business partner Rob Higgins (formerly of Gepetto’s), and the cheerful staff are busy mixing, frying, and topping doughnuts.

YOU ASKED US WHERE TO EAT AND WE ANSWERED WITH A WEEKLY RESTAURANT BLOG. FOLLOW THE JOURNEY ONLINE.

evin Sandes, the creator and owner of Urban Sugar Donuts, has a soft spot in his heart for doughnuts. Attending the North Carolina State Fair, he noticed that the mini-doughnut stand always had the longest line. “I knew I could take that product to the next level,” he says. In the fall of 2013 the Urban Sugar truck hit the road, and one of the first stops was Sugarloaf for Homecoming Weekend. For the past two winters, Urban Sugar has been making doughnuts from a small space tucked into a corner of Sugarloaf’s base lodge. The Sawduster chairlift is so close that riders could almost be served a snack as they pass by. Moving

ROLLING FATTIES

BY KAREN WATTERSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICOLE WOLF

268 Main St. | Kingfield | 207.399.9246 rollingfatties.com

blazing fireplace makes the space extra cozy. Rob and Polly share cooking duties, although neither of them have any formal training. They make about 300 tortillas by hand every week and keep several hundred more in the freezer. The back of the menu has a long list of local farms and producers, from Crooked Face Creamery in Norridgewock that makes delicious ricotta to Luce’s Meats in North Anson for pork.

themainemag.com/blog

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It’s hard to decide on any one flavor when everything sounds so tempting. The menu changes often, whenever the staff (and sometimes the customers) come up with new creations. Signature favorites include the Salted Caramel, topped with chocolate and sea salt, and the S’Mores, with the classic combination of chocolate, marshmallow, and brown butter graham cracker. For those who prefer a more savory snack, look for novelties like the Chicken and Waffles doughnut, with crispy chicken skin, honey sriracha, and a maple glaze. Traditional minis are always available, and sometimes nothing tastes better than a warm, freshly fried doughnut rolled simply in cinnamon sugar. Pair them with a cup of Tandem Coffee or chocolate milk, both available at the cafe. “This is about so much more than doughnuts,” says Sandes. “It’s about making people smile.”

At Rolling Fatties, it’s all about fun. The food is great—hefty, overstuffed burritos and sides made with mostly local and organic ingredients. Owners Polly and Rob MacMichael are fun and easygoing, and that attitude shines through in every part of their business. It starts the moment you walk into the 1840s orange farmhouse that is now the restaurant. The space is funky and cheerful, sweet and eclectic. A dinged and scratched wooden bar is built from an old workbench found in the barn. There’s a corrugated metal ceiling and an obvious love of chalkboards, where you can find information about farmers, producers, schedules, and specials. Two dining areas in the front are furnished with tables made by Rob and mismatched chairs. A

A “fatty” is any of these fresh ingredients rolled into one of the flour tortillas. It’s a burrito, with a base of Mexican rice, Maine black beans, fresh salsa, crema, and cilantro. You can add grass-fed shaved steak, maple pork, chicken, or even bacon jerky to your fatty. Top with pickled jalapenos or onions, a boldly flavored beet and carrot slaw, cheese, and more. You can watch as Rob piles it high and rolls it up tightly. There’s the Falafel Fatty made with Papou’s Kitchen patties, and a cheeseburger fatty with grass-fed beef or a Blue Mango veggie burger with special sauce. The Freedom Fatty is the “roller’s choice of anything on the menu.” Each one is different, with an assortment of ingredients, including some that may not even be on the menu. Rob makes one for us to try, generously stuffed with pork, pickled onions, jalapenos, guacamole sauce, and salsa verde. But if you prefer your meal without the tortilla, “We pack bowls, too,” says Polly. While you wait for your fatty, order one of the Maine beers on tap or in cans. The couple loves small breweries, and friends occasionally bring up the kegs or cans when they come to visit.

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REAL ESTATE

5008 Twin Brook Road, Carrabassett Valley This mountain lodge at the base of Sugarloaf Mountain features cathedral ceilings and seven stone fireplaces. The 7,500-square-foot home has a huge deck and entertaining areas, along with all the amenities you would expect in a mountain retreat. Listed at: $1,750,000 Mountainside Real Estate sugarloafmountainside.com

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Land , Homes & Condominiums On-Mountain

Bigelow Townhouse 4 Bedrooms 3 Baths $385,000

Bigelow Townhouse 4 Bedrooms 3 Baths $365,900

Bigelow Townhouse 4 Bedrooms 3 Baths $369,000

Birchwood III Condominium 4 Bedrooms 3 Baths $320,000

Castle Creek Townhouse 3 Bedrooms 3.5 Baths $305,000

North Woods Single Family Home 5 Bedrooms 4 Baths $1,375,000

North Woods Single Family Home 4 Bedrooms 3 Baths $565,000

Riverside Single Family Home 6 Bedrooms 4 Baths $785,000

Riverside Single Family Home 3 Bedrooms 2.5 Baths $710,000

Riverside Homesite Kennebec Circle Lot 23 $89,000

Riverside Homesite Sandy River Circle Lot 79 $89,900

Riverside Homesite Kennebec Circle Lot 95 $94,000

Riverside Homesite Sandy River Circle Lot 87 $78,500

Riverside Homesite Sandy River Circle Lot 34 $79,000

Snowbrook Condominium 3 Bedrooms 2 Baths $239,000

Snowbrook Condominium 2 Bedrooms 2 Baths $195,000

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Land , Homes & Condominiums On-Mountain

Sugartree II Condominium 1 Bedroom 1 Bath $135,000

Sugartree II Condominium 1 Bedroom 1 Bath $125,000

Sugartree II Condominium 1 Bedroom +Loft 2 Baths $200,000

Sugarloaf Inn Room Condominium Hotel Room 1 Bath $49,000

Sugarloaf Inn Room Condominium Hotel Room +Loft 1 Bath $127,500

Sugarloaf Inn Room Condominium Hotel Room 1 Bath $45,500

Sugarloaf Inn Room Condominium Hotel Room 1 Bath $45,000

Sugarloaf Inn Room Condominium Hotel Room +Loft 2 Bath $92,000

Spruce Knoll Single Family Home 5 Bedrooms 3 Baths $970,000

Twin Brook Road Single Family Home 3-5 Bedrooms 4 Baths $1,750,000

Timbers Townhouse 4 Bedrooms 4.5 Baths $598,000

Timbers Townhouse 5 Bedrooms 4.5 Baths $598,000

Timbers Townhouse 4 Bedrooms 4.5 Baths $599,000

Timberwind Condominium Studio 1 Bath $86,900

Village On The Green Single Family Home 5 Bedrooms 3 Baths $539,000

Village On The Green Single Family Home 4 Bedrooms 3.5 Baths $469,000

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Land , Homes & Condominiums On-Mountain

Village On The Green Homesite Bunny’s Lane Lot 34 $45,000

Village On The Green Homesite Village on the green Road Lot 27 $98,500

Village On The Green Homesite Eagle’s Lane Lot 56 $51,000

Winters Way Townhouse 3 Bedrooms 3.5 Baths $429,000

Village On The Green Homesite Nice Drive Lot 75 $44,000

Village On The Green Homesite Village on th green Road Lot 50 $38,000

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Land , Homes & Condominiums Off-Mountain

Sugarloaf Village Single Family Home 5 Bedrooms 4 Baths $549,000

Sugarloaf Village Single Family Home 3 Bedrooms +Loft 2.5 Baths $595,000

Carrabassett Valley Condominium 1 Bedroom +Loft 1.5 Bath $119,000

Redington East Homesite Birch Trail Road Lot 153 $19,000

Redington East Homesite Brook Falls Road Lot 148 $24,500

Redington East Homesite Fox Hollow Road Lot 175 $35,900

Redington East Homesite Birch Trail Road Lot 7 $24,500

Redington East Homesite Pond Road Lot 110 $25,000

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Kingfield Single Family Home 6 Bedrooms 3 Baths $569,000

Wyman Single Family Home 4 Bedrooms 1 Bath $159,000

Wyman Single Family Home 3 Bedrooms 1.5 Baths $139,000

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Wyman Homesite Calon Road Lot 169 $25,000

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Spruce Knoll

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INN AT BAY LEDGE BAR HARBOR MLS 1309241 | $2,000,000 John Bennett 207.460.8592

CHRISTMAS SPIRIT SHOP & BUILDING 80 MAIN STREET, BAR HARBOR MLS 1328586 | $1,695,000 Kimberly Swan kim@swanagency.com

INVESTMENT UNITS 278 MAIN STREET, BAR HARBOR MLS 1329208 | $1,299,000 Kimberly Swan kim@swanagency.com

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Wishing You Happy Holidays & A Wonderful 2018! -Amy Cameron & John Bennett Working with Buyers & Sellers on Mount Desert Island & surrounding areas. amy.cameron@swanagency.com 207.479.7877 | John.bennett@swanageny.com 207.460.8592

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December 2017 145

Meet the exclusive group of real estate consultants raising the bar and providing private, personalized, unparalleled service to their clientele in the upper-tier home market.

PORTSMOUTH, NH | 750 LAFAYETTE ROAD, SUITE 201 | 603.610.8500 YORK, ME | 4 MARKET PLACE DRIVE, SUITE 1-2 | 207.475.0999 NEWENGLANDCOASTALREALTY.COM

Sugarloaf Home Financing Since 2002 vacation homes |

condos

investment properties

As a proud Sugarloafer since 1993, I pride myself on providing you with a wide variety of loan programs paired with the financial service you deserve. In fact, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve financed over 30 home loans on the mountain since 2013. Call me, your local mountain home financing expert today!

DEAN GILBERT

Branch Manager, NMLS#22845 (207) 417-7003

www.Dean-Gilbert.com

ÂŠ 2017 Mortgage Network, Inc. NMLS ID# 2668. Maine Supervised Lender License SLM2499. This is not a commitment to lend. Restrictions apply. Equal Housing Lender. For full legal disclosure, visit www.mortgagenetwork.com License and Disclosure Information page.

Are you looking for a neighborhood that offers a true Maine lifestyle?

CONSIDER THE NEWEST PREMIER COMMUNITY IN OLD ORCHARD BEACH • Fully Customizable Plans • Common Water Frontage • Private Walking Trails • 15 Minutes to Portland • 90 Minutes to Boston

• Package Pricing Available

180 MAIN ST. SACO, ME 04072

CALL 207-956-0543 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR VISIT WWW.PONDVIEWWOODS.COM

Ski Season is just around the corner. Great Sugarloaf location! 6002 Piscataqua LN Carrabassett Valley, ME MLS # 1310877

Mark Small

Ph. 207.807.7889 mark@Landmarkrealtymaine.com

LandmarkRealtyMaine.com

SAVE THE DATE

is a proud sponsor of the:

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19th, 2018 Calling all skiers & snowboarders! Gather your team and hit the slopes to support children fighting cancer in Maine.

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Contact Lakepoint Real Estate so you can come home to Maine.

Lakepoint Real Estate

221 Main Street, Belgrade Lakes, Maine 207-495-3700 www.belgradelakepoint.com

The Thistle Inn BOOTHBAY HARBOR

and why it belongs on your list. Read more at themainemag.com/eat/the-thistle-inn

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THIS IS SO MAINE.

CAPTURE by Joe Gambino

EVERY DAY WE COMB THROUGH OUR INSTAGRAM FEED TO FIND IMAGES FROM FOLLOWERS DOCUMENTING OUR STATE. ON INSTAGRAM WE SHARE A CAPTURE OF THE DAY, AND EACH MONTH IN MAINE MAGAZINE WE HIGHLIGHT ONE OF THOSE PHOTOS.

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pring is one of my favorite seasons at Sugarloaf. The skiing is amazing, and it seems as if everyone is energized after being released from the multiple layers worn to keep warm during the winter months. Riding up the lift, you see and hear friends laughing and smiling as they make turns in the soft spring bumps below. This was one of those perfect days. After skiing all day with friends, I participated in the Mountain to Mug race, a mad dash from the top of the hill to the bottom, followed by a run down the Access Road to the Rack BBQ. The deck was packed with people cheering on the racers and celebrating one of the last weekends of the season.

After spending 12 years in Boston working in the organ and tissue transplant field, Joe Gambino now lives in Carrabassett Valley, exploring and photographing his home and points beyond. You can follow him on Instagram and Facebook @27northphotography.

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maine | themainemag.com

Mother Nature could not have provided a better send-off. As the day ended and the sun began to set, you could see the sky was about to transform. Carrabassett Valley has some of the most incredible sunsets I have ever seen, but three or four times a year, they are especially amazing. This evening was one of those times. I excused myself from the conversation I was in, jumped in my car, and drove a short distance to a semi-secluded spot just off the Access Road. I parked my car, grabbed my camera, and climbed up to the top of a sand pile to look up at the mountain and take it all in. The color splash of pink, white, green, and orange, highlighted by the sunsetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reflection in the bog, was intense. I had waited all winter to capture this exact moment. On a day full of reminders about why I moved to the valley, this moment was still the best.

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Fine home builders, general contractors, and developers

899 Post Road • Wells, ME 04090 • 207.646.6194 • Rmoodyconstruction.com