Maine magazine February 2018 by Maine Magazine

February 2018

WINTER WARRIORS

Hundreds compete for amateur hockey bragging rights on Snow Pond A WEEKEND EXPLORATION IN ROCKLAND

Making education

for our kids.

Drive for Education is an unique program that sets aside a portion of the proceeds of each vehicle sold to make an impact in schools in our local community. For more information visit BerlinCity.com/Drive-for-Education.html

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You Tube

Innovation, now seating seven. With this much advanced technology inside, it was only fair to make room for everyone. Introducing the all-new Audi Q7 with a truly impressive array of innovations. The available Audi virtual cockpit with Google Earth™ navigation gives drivers control over the road from their own personalized command center. Leading-edge technology, such as available Audi turn assist, helps drivers avoid potential collisions by monitoring the road around them. Superior design and intelligence have come together to form the next-generation Sport Technology Vehicle.

The all-new Audi Q7. A higher form of intelligence has arrived.

MORONG FALMOUTH AUDI 187 U. S. ROUTE ONE FALMOUTH, MAINE 04105 207-781-4020 WWW.MORONGFALMOUTHAUDI.COM The features discussed are not a substitute for attentive driving. “Audi,” all model names, and the four rings logo are registered trademarks of AUDI AG. “Google Earth” is a trademark of Google Inc. ©2016 Audi of America, Inc.

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Escape the winter elements as you’re nestled by the warm comfort of Tidemark’s 2-story fireplace with beverage in hand or elemental-inspired spa services. Stormcationers and Snowcationers alike can enjoy breathtaking views of the ocean water as it hits the cliff walls below. Just an hour north of Boston, enjoy a broad array of outdoor and indoor activities while building memories that will last a lifetime, all cloaked in the comfort and warmth of authentic Maine hospitality. Call 207 361-1000 or book online at cliffhousemaine.com

· 207 361-1000 · contact your travel professional · 591 shore road, cape neddick, maine

contents

Frozen Face-Off 042

Camaraderie abounds as skaters brave the elements at the annual Maine Pond Hockey Classic by Dr. Lisa Belisle | Photography by Matt Cosby

Gulf Guardian 052

From fishing to research to Maine Marine Patrol, Corrie Roberts has found her sea legs by Philip Conkling | Photography by Nicole Wolf

Main Stay, Rockland 064

The wind is blowing big, swirling flakes, carrying us right into Rockland by Sandy Lang | Photography by Peter Frank Edwards

Narrative Structure 078

At home with Jane Goodrich, the author of The House at Lobster Cove and the creator of her very own shingle-style marvel on Swans Island by Katy Kelleher | Photography by Erin Little

on the cover

At the Maine Pond Hockey Classic, the South Portland Fire Department team plays against Mad Hatters Pub from Westbrook. Photography by Matt Cosby

on this page

South Portland firefighter Joshua Perry at the Maine Pond Hockey Classic in Sidney. Photography by Matt Cosby

THERE + THEN 016 Going out, giving back: supporting nonprofits + local businesses in the vital work they do year-round NEW + NOTEWORTHY 025 What’s happening around the state 48 HOURS

026 Westbrook, Gorham + Windham; Waterville

by Paul Koenig and Brittany Cost

A-LIST 040 Ice-Fishing Spots

by Joel Kuschke Photography by Peter Frank Edwards

LOVE MAINE RADIO 051 Interview with Barrett Takesian by Dr. Lisa Belisle Photography by Sean Thomas

EAT BLOGS

90 Rose Foods + Little Giant

by Karen Watterson Photography by Nicole Wolf

CAPTURE

James Lynch

042

EDITOR’S NOTE 011 STAFF INSIGHTS 013 CONTRIBUTORS 015 EVENTS 022

Photo © Gridley + Graves Photo

Karen Bowe, Ryan Hammond, Peter Heinz, Kerry Rasor, Tom Urban, Emily Wedick PRODUCTION MANAGER | Nichole Heady DIRECTOR OF EVENTS & EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING |

Reven Oliver

DIRECTOR OF CORPORATE GIVING & VISIBILITY |

Shelbi Wassick

Ted Axelrod, Liz Caron, Matt Cosby, Dave Dostie, Kyle Dubay, Peter Frank Edwards, Lauren Lear, Erin Little, Nicole Wolf CIRCULATION | Sarah Lynn ART COLLECTOR MAINE |

Laura A. Bryer, Jack Leonardi, Taylor McCafferty, Kendra McDonald, Emma Wilson THE BRAND COMPANY |

Chris Kast, Melissa Pearson, Angela Smith Wagner LOVE MAINE RADIO WITH DR. LISA BELISLE |

Spencer Albee, Dr. Lisa Belisle, Brittany Cost, Paul Koenig, Casey Lovejoy, Shelbi Wassick MAINE HOME+DESIGN MAGAZINE |

Rebecca Falzano, Heidi Kirn OLD PORT MAGAZINE |

Susan Axelrod, Joel Kuschke MOXIE MAINE MAGAZINE |

Brittany Cost, Heidi Kirn

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ARCHITECTS

BOOTHBAY

INTERIOR DESIGNERS

PORTLAND

BUILDERS

CABINETMAKERS

knickerbockergroup.com

Opinions expressed in articles or advertisements, unless otherwise noted, do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher, staff, or advisory board. Every effort has been made to ensure that all information presented in this issue is accurate, and neither Maine nor any of its staff is responsible for omissions or information that has been misrepresented to the magazine. Copyright © 2018, Maine Media Collective LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission, in writing, from the publisher. Printed in the U.S.A. themainemag.com

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EDITOR’S NOTE Photography by Sean Thomas

By February in Maine, much of winter’s initial luster has dulled. The glimmering powder of those early snowstorms is now caked to sidewalks and snow banks. Blizzards and bomb cyclones and polar vortexes have pummeled our bodies, houses, and spirits. But we know the warming temperatures of spring are still weeks away, so we have to keep finding ways to survive the winter. For some, that means playing hockey on a frozen pond. The Maine Pond Hockey Classic is the kind of event that can only happen in the middle of winter. Hundreds of players from around Maine and beyond compete each February on Messalonskee Lake in Sidney, helping raise funds for the Waterville Area Boys and Girls Club and YMCA (“Frozen Face-Off,” p. 42).

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For a more low-key cold-weather activity, try a weekend trip to somewhere like Rockland. Last winter writer Sandy Lang and photographer Peter Frank Edwards spent a few days exploring the midcoast city, finding plenty of culinary and cultural stops worth seeking out (“Main Stay, Rockland,” p. 64). The pork and scallop dumplings in a miso and soy milk broth at Suzuki’s Sushi Bar is the kind of meal you want to savor when you’re avoiding going back out into the cold. Some Mainers’ jobs require them to brave the elements each winter, no matter the weather. Corrie Roberts, the captain of the Maine Marine Patrol’s flagship vessel, has to be ready at all times and conditions, (“Gulf Guardian,” p. 52). Roberts is out on the water throughout the year, sometimes

encountering life-or-death situations, such as when she had to board a runaway fishing boat circling near shore with an unconscious captain. Soon we’ll be working on issues for spring and then summer, as slushy sidewalks give way to sunshine and short sleeves. Whether or not you enjoy the winter, we hope you join us in looking forward.

Paul Koenig Managing Editor pkoenig@themainemag.com

February 2018 11

CREATE BIGGER

BRAND

WE LOVE MAINE. We fill our work days creating Maine-centric media products—publishing magazines and guides, producing radio shows, managing social media sites, developing websites, filming videos, producing events—because of this simple tenet. Our staff have stayed here, come back here, or moved here because we love Maine’s rich history, its unique character, and the people who live here, and most important, because we believe in Maine’s potential. We simultaneously love the Maine we grew up in and fully embrace the reality that things change and evolve. And we bear witness to that happening here. We are cheerleaders for Maine as a place for people to live, stay, and thrive—a place for people from away to move to, a place for second homeowners to buy into, a place to raise children, a place to start and operate a business—as well as a place to visit and explore, a place to escape and heal. And, a place to be inspired. We cover Maine in a positive light. We intentionally leave the negativity and snark to other media outlets. There is a place for everything, and we honor that. But that place is not here. So if you love Maine, please turn to us with your reading eyes, your listening ears, your follows and your likes, your attendance, and your advertising and sponsorships. Explore what we believe is the best Maine has to offer, on the pages of our magazines and guides, through the airwaves, at events, and via social media.

BRAND DEVELOPMENT ADVERTISING PRINT + WEB DESIGN SEARCH ENGINE MARKETING SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGY MEDIA PLANNING

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It’s about a new direction. thebrandcompany.me 207.772.3373

maine | themainemag.com

STAFF INSIGHTS Answering questions about how we experience the state

WHERE IN MAINE HAVE YOU LEARNED SOMETHING NEW? “At Lakeside Archery in Yarmouth, my family and I learned how to hold and shoot a bow, along with safety tips, during an hour-long lesson. We were able to target practice with a recurve bow, so we could really learn the art of shooting. Thanks to Lakeside Archery, we found a new skill and activity we can continue to do together. ”

We’re the vacation planning service that will help you fall in love with Maine.

Casey Lovejoy Community Development Manager clovejoy@themainemag.com

“It’s been a little over a year since I began learning to fly, and I’m halfway to obtaining my pilot license. I train with Earle Harvey of Maine Coastal Flight at the Brunswick Executive Airport and Jeremy Harmon of Higher Ground Aviation and Penobscot Island Air out of Knox County Regional Airport. The thrill and beauty of being up in the air is indescribable. I’m looking forward to exploring every inch of this beautiful state, helping to promote the aviation community in Maine. ” Laura Bryer Gallery Manager, Portland Art Gallery lbryer@artcollectormaine.com

“Last summer I visited Quoddy Head State Park, the easternmost point in the continental United States, with my wife and some friends. Even though we were still in Maine, it felt like another planet. Standing on the beach and looking seaward, it looked like something you’d see in Christopher Nolan’s Interstellar. With a thick fog bank a few miles out and the shoreline disappearing behind us on either side, it really felt like we were at the edge of the world.” Spencer Albee Audio Producer, Love Maine Radio salbee@themainemag.com February 2018 13

yourmaineconcierge.com 207.215.4151

WE GIVE BACK.

THIS IS SO MAINE.

At Maine Media Collective our mission is to make a substantial and unique contribution to supporting Maine’s nonprofit community statewide, regionally, and at the town level. We believe that the work Maine’s nonprofit organizations do, individually and collectively, makes our lives better and Maine a better place to live. With limited budgets, Maine’s nonprofits need help boosting awareness of their specific causes and raising the funds they need. We have established long-term relationships with over 120 nonprofits and community-based organizations. We give to these organizations by providing, free of charge, services ranging from advertising to graphic design, brand development, marketing advice, online announcements, and social media engagement. We often include nonprofit organizations in our editorial coverage through feature articles and/or recaps of their events. You’ll find the latter in our “There + Then,” “Turnout,” and “Gather” sections. Over the past year, MMC has made cash and in-kind donations of more than:

$1,930,463 WE ARE PROUD OF OUR AFFILIATION WITH THE FOLLOWING ORGANIZATIONS:

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WE DELIVER. Subscribe 207 772 3373 themainemag.com/subscribe

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CONTRIBUTORS

With plenty of toe and hand warmers packed, photographer MATT COSBY spent the weekend drinking hot chocolate and watching his first Maine Pond Hockey Classic in Sidney. Growing up playing hockey himself, Cosby was right at home. It snowed the entire two days of the tournament, creating magical wintery conditions for the many teams clamoring for first place. “Frozen Face-Off,” p. 42

Art director JOEL KUSCHKE is a Maine native with a passion for the outdoors. Maine’s famously long and cold winters don’t keep him shut inside. Having never learned how to ski or snowboard, he fights off wintertime cabin fever by ice fishing as often as possible. This month he has compiled a selection of icefishing spots across the state for beginner and veteran anglers alike. A-List, p. 40

Editorial assistant BRITTANY COST loves to explore the state on weekends, whenever time and budget allow. This month she and a friend drove up to Waterville for a 48-hour-long adventure that included cross-country skiing, searching for vintage finds, and sampling local spirits. 48 Hours, p. 26

PHILIP CONKLING divides his time between

Camden and Lanes Island, Vinalhaven. His current work includes renewable energy development projects and nonprofit consulting, including the publication of People Give to People: Simple Rules for Successful Fundraising. “Gulf Guardian,” p. 52

Southwest Harbor scallop diver Andy Mays, who was profiled in the June 2017 issue of Maine magazine, lost his battle to cancer on December 28, 2017. He was 53.

February 2018 15

Jim Godbout Plumbing & Heating, Inc 48 Elm Street, Biddeford ME | (207)283-1200

Innovative plumbing & heating services for Southern Maine ENERGY CONSERVATION SPECIALISTS

THERE + THEN Photography by Dave Dostie

ALFOND YOUTH CENTER’S DISCO FEVER CHARITY BALL

A ’70s-themed party supporting youth programs Over 200 guests dressed in ’70s-themed outfits and danced to the Jim Ciampi Band at the Alfond Youth Center’s Disco Fever Charity Ball. Held at the Hathaway Creative Center in Waterville, the event featured disco balls, lava lamps, color-changing crystal columns, and a light show, as well as a raw oyster bar, chocolate and cheese fondue stations, and themed appetizers and drinks. During the silent auction, guests bid on everything from Patriots tickets to a custom gas-powered bicycle. Proceeds helped to provide scholarships for the after-school program Kid’s Kitchen, a summer enrichment program, and Camp Tracy programs for youth. Campbell’s Agway True Value, Colby College, Unity Foundation, and Eagle Rental sponsored the event. 01

Viessman boilers & radiant systems by Uponor with Taco controls

Heatpumps pumps Heat forMaine’s Maine’s for crazyclimate climate crazy by Fujitsu by L.G & Fujitsu

Building long lasting relationships and stronger communities

“What an amazing night. From boogying to bidding on a year’s worth of designer socks, it was a fun way to support the needs of Waterville’s at-risk youth.” —Brent Burger, board member at Alfond Youth Center and owner of Campbell’s Agway True Value

Jim Godbout, Owner

2015 YMCA Biddeford project

www.jimgodbout.com

01 Roby Hutchinson, CEO of Robyko, and Rosanna Córdoba Hutchinson 02 Amy Downing, program and membership manager at Retail Association of Maine 03 Matthew Bulmer, operations manager at TD Bank; Kathy McLaughlin Bulmer; Amy Downing; Toby Downing; Shannon Lockwood; and Joel Lockwood 04 Mike Loubier, Central Maine Motors Auto Group, and Meg Loubier, branch manager at Skowhegan Savings Bank 05 Gary Dugal, Good Will-Hinckley 06 Cory Moser, Bath Iron Works, and Alex Moser, teacher 07 Shannon Savage, People’s Salon and Spa, and Lisa Best

... 11th annual ...

february 16-18, 2018

â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Chefs Signature Series

ice bar

motor booty affair

feb fest

Freeport chefs and food artisans prepare award winning tastes to showcase their culinary skill + style.

Cozy up with friends to our ice bar featuring a martini luge, ice sculptures, roaring fires & groovy tunes.

Shake your groove thang to Maine's ultimate disco party band! Costumes encouraged!

Flavors of Freeport is a signature event in the month long celebration of the arts in Freeport!

Plan your winter weekend getaway in Freeport, Maine. Featuring demonstrations, live music, decadent dining events and much more, Flavors of Freeport is a culinary experience not to be missed!

Call 207-865-1212 to order a free event brochure

facebook.com/FlavorsOfFreeport Presented by

Sponsored by

THERE + THEN Photography by Kyle Dubay

STRIVE’S 13TH ANNUAL AUCTION: ADVENTURE AWAITS

Raising money to support youth and young adults with developmental disabilities STRIVE’s 13th Annual Auction, called “Adventure Awaits,” was held at the Italian Heritage Center in Portland. Over 400 guests attended to support STRIVE and its mission of serving children, teenagers, and young adults with developmental disabilities. Attendees bid on live and silent auction items ranging from trips to experiences to artwork.

THIS IS SO MAINE.

“Our auction is a great gathering of families, volunteers, sponsors, and the community who come together and support STRIVE while bidding on opportunities and items that aren’t available anywhere else.” —Peter Brown, associate director at STRIVE

WE DELIVER. Subscribe 207 772 3373 themainemag.com/subscribe 01 Terry Thompson, vice president at Bangor Savings Bank, and Susan Snowden, chief consumer officer at Bangor Savings Bank 02 Jeff Goranites, STRIVE; Caroline Cole, community services program manager at STRIVE; and Paul Koenig, managing editor of Maine magazine 03 Peter Montano, principal at Macpage, and Sara Montano 04 Ben Lawlor, Maine Cosmetic Dentistry, and Sarah Lawlor, tax specialist at BerryDunn 05 Betsy Shevenell and Kathleen Shevenell, MEMIC 06 Christine Murray; Emily Murray; and Bob Murray 07 Cindy Kennett and Kip Kennett 08 Donna Roggenthien

M. J. BENSON JOANNE PARENT F E B R UA R Y 1–28 , 2 018 O P E N I N G R E C E P T I O N : F E B R UA R Y 1, 5 P M –7 P M

M.J. Benson | Mark | 24” x 24” | Acrylic on Canvas

Joanne Parent | Clouds Gather | 30” x 40” | Oil on Canvas

1 5 4 M I D D L E S T R E E T, P O R T L A N D, M A I N E 0 4 1 0 1 A R TC O L L E C TO R M A I N E . C O M

TO REQUEST A SHOW CATALOG OR SCHEDULE A PRIVATE VIEWING PLEASE CONTACT EMMA WILSON OR LAURA BRYER AT 207.956.7105

THERE + THEN Photography by Liz Caron

NOVEMBER CINQ A SEPT

An after-work gathering of friends and colleagues November’s Cinq a Sept was held at Gather in Yarmouth. Sponsored by Maine Honda Dealers and Pinnacle Landscape and Design, the evening featured light appetizers and music provided by Spencer Albee.

THIS IS SO PORTLAND.

“Thank you to the incredible team at Gather for sharing such a lovely evening with us. It is truly a unique and welcoming space to enjoy mouthwatering food and each other’s company.” —Reven Oliver, director of events and experiential marketing at Maine Media Collective

JIM BRADY THINKS AHEAD

CREW CONVENES ON CASCO BAY

SPACE TO CREATE AT EAST END LOFTS

PORTLAND'S

CITY MAGAZINE JUNE 2017

Dockside Dining SCALES DISHES THE FRESH FLAVORS OF THE SEA

Rum Runners

THE CITY’S COCKTAIL CULTURE COMES OF AGE

PORTLAND + ART GALLERY

HITS ITS STRIDE INSIDER PICKS:

LOCAL FAVES OF THE SEA DOGS

WE DELIVER. Subscribe 207 772 3373 themainemag.com/subscribe

01Tanner Maguire, Cunningham Farm; Karen Bowe, advertising account manager at Maine Media Collective; Kerry Rasor, advertising account manager at Maine Media Collective; and Scott Bowe, artist at Art Collector Maine 02 Reven Oliver, director of events and experiential marketing at Maine Media Collective, and Candy Fontaine, manager at Maine Woolens 03 Kevin Thomas, Maine Media Collective; Wendy Polstein, Quill Design; and Matt Chappell, owner of Gather 04 Sean McCarthy, bass player in the Ghost of Paul Revere, and Ryan Hammond, advertising account manager at Maine Media Collective 05 Sheila Gibbons, director of spirits at Maine Spirits, and Kimberly Burke, brand ambassador at Barr Hill 06 Emma Tallack, owner of Emma Tallack Creativity Coaching, and Emily Wedick, advertising account manager at Maine Media Collective 07 Zeke Williams, national account manager at Browne Trading Company, and Stephanie Branch, Legacy Properties Sotheby’s International Realty 08 Joel Kuschke, art director of Maine and Old Port magazines; Joe Ybarra, developer at ThinkBean; and Margaret Ybarra, principal strategist at Impact

maine | themainemag.com

Freedom Boat Club of Maine Two Locations ~ Sebago Lakes Region & Casco Bay

Enjoy affordable, maintenance-free boating with the nation’s largest boat club. Multiple, affordable membership plans available with unlimited boat usage PLUS access to boats at 148+ locations in the U.S. and Canada.

Find Your Freedom

infoMaine@FreedomBoatClub.com • 207-650-9374

EVENTS

How sweet it is.

COMMUNITY

2.1

BERLIN PHILHARMONIC WIND QUINTET Portland Ovations 7:30 p.m. Hannaford Hall 88 Bedford St. | Portland portlandovations.org

2.2 – 2.3

BROADWAY NATIONAL TOUR OF RODGERS + HAMMERSTEIN’S CINDERELLA Portland Ovations Merrill Auditorium 20 Myrtle St. | Portland portlandovations.org

2.2

THE JUNIOR LEAGUE OF PORTLAND’S 10TH ANNUAL GALA 7 p.m.–10 p.m. Cellardoor Winery at the Point 4 Thompson’s Point | Portland jlpmaine.org

2.2

VANCE GILBERT

7:30 p.m. The Strand Theatre 345 Main St. | Rockland rocklandstrand.com

2.3

DRAMATIC READING: EDWARD ALBEE’S OCCUPANT Farnsworth Art Museum 2 p.m.–4 p.m. Adas Yoshuron Synagogue 50 Willow St.| Rockland farnsworthmuseum.org

2.3

WINTERTIDE: WAYNFLETE SCHOOL COMMUNITY AUCTION

LET’S GET THIS PARTY STARTED.

6 p.m.–10 p.m. Brick South 8 Thompsons Point | Portland wintertide2018.org

207.667.6000 | WALLACEEVENTS.COM 22

maine | themainemag.com

urban dwellings

INTERIORS

2.8

• DESIGN

• OBJECTS

THE CASHORE MARIONETTES 7 p.m. The Strand Theatre 345 Main St. | Rockland rocklandstrand.com

shop the most memorable gifts to say “be mine”

2.8

LES BALLETS JAZZ DE MONTRÉAL (BJM) Portland Ovations 7:30 p.m. Merrill Auditorium 20 Myrtle St. | Portland portlandovations.org

2.15

CONTEMPORARIES 2018 WINTER BASH: CULTIVATE 8 p.m.–10 p.m. Portland Museum of Art 7 Congress Sq. | Portland portlandmuseum.org

2.20 – 2.22

CELEBRATE CHINESE NEW YEAR! SCHOOL VACATION WEEK ART CAMP WITH AVIS TURNER 9 a.m.–noon Farnsworth Art Museum 16 Museum St. | Rockland farnsworthmuseum.org

2.24

MILLAY WITHOUT BORDERS: 126TH BIRTHDAY READING 2 p.m.–3:30 p.m. Farnsworth Art Museum 16 Museum St. | Rockland farnsworthmuseum.org

118 CONGRESS STREET PORTLAND, MAINE URBAN-DWELL.COM 207-780-6136

designing for the individual. all inquiries welcome. February 2018 23

We know the state of Maine.

WHERE TO GO WHAT TO DO WHERE TO SHOP WHERE TO EAT

+ MORE

Need advice? Ask the experts.

NEW + NOTEWORTHY by Brittany Cost Bixby and Co. has recently opened a brick-and-mortar shop at its production facility in Rockland. The store features Bixby’s own chocolate made from cacao beans, Bixby Bars and Bites, sea-salted caramels, and drinking chocolate. Schoodic Institute, a nonprofit partner of Acadia National Park, has named Don Kent as its new president and CEO. Kent has previously held positions within conservation-related organizations, including NatureServe, a nonprofit organization based in Virginia providing conservation-related data, tools, and services. Kent started his new role in early January. FocusMaine, a group launched in 2014 by business leaders to boost Maine’s economy, has chosen Kimberly Hamilton as its first president. As president, Hamilton will oversee FocusMaine’s programs to accelerate job creation in targeted high-growth sectors. She previously served as chief impact officer at Feeding America and in senior positions at the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation. A program between Thornton Academy and the University of Maine to increase Science, Technology, Engineering, and Math (STEM) scholarship, lower college costs, and encourage students to stay in Maine saw its first students enter college last semester. The program guarantees automatic admission at the University of Maine’s College of Engineering and allows students to enroll as sophomores, enabling them to graduate in three years. This past year, Caleb Bailey and Benjamin Leary completed the program at Thornton Academy and matriculated at University of Maine as sophomores.

2017 was an exciting year for Maine schools, like Dora L. Small Elementary School in South Portland. They raised $886.68 in 2017 and Hannaford Supermarkets matched $137.75 during the Challenge period. Now that’s real change. All schools in Maine are invited to join. Speak to your principal and make sure your school doesn’t miss out!

@thinkCLYNK

For more info visit www.clynk.com/clynk-for-schools

Louise Rosen, former consulting director of L/A Arts and former executive and artistic director of the Maine Jewish Film Festival, has produced Killing for Love, a new documentary examining a doublemurder case that took place in 1985 in Virginia. Convicted of killing his girlfriend’s parents 32 years ago, Jens Soering is still claiming his innocence, and a new analysis of DNA samples reveals that Soering was not present at the crime scene. After opening in New York and Los Angeles, the film is showing in select Maine theaters.

BE WHO YOU ARE, BECOME WHO YOU WANT TO BE.

OPEN HOUSE February 7th, 2018 4pm-7pm Photo courtesy of Freedom Boat Club

APPLY NOW

Freedom Boat Club is expanding into Maine with two new locations. Now run out of Yarmouth Boat Yard and Moose Landing Marina in Naples, Freedom Boat Club allows members to try out new, model-year boats, including center consoles, dual consoles, deck boats, and pontoon boats, without owning or maintaining a boat. The club currently operates out of 148 locations in the United States and Canada.

THORNTON ACADEMY WWW.THORNTONACADEMY.ORG

February 2018 25

WESTBROOK, GORHAM + WINDHAM in 48 Hours

PAUL KOENIG MANAGING EDITOR

01 Neighboring Portland and Sebago Lake, these three communities invite you to explore their historical downtowns, culinary offerings, and outdoor recreational opportunities.

FRIDAY

SATURDAY

Downtown dining

River walking and jewelry making

EVENING

PineCrest Inn is a short walk from Gorham’s downtown, which will make exploring the town easy. My friend, Zach, and I have reservations at MK Kitchen, so I walk over after checking in to my room. The restaurant is laidback but stylish, with a thoughtful menu from chef-owner Mitchell Kaldrovich that highlights his range. Kaldrovich is known for his delicate lobster cones, but we opt to start with duck liver pâté and a plate of local cheeses. Zach’s entree is a decedent duck confit cassoulet, while I order the special: seafood paella with squid, shrimp, and mussels.

maine | themainemag.com

MORNING

I start my day with a run through downtown, past the University of Southern Maine, and along Route 114’s sloping hills. I have plans to meet friends in Westbrook, so I grab a quick breakfast at a longtime southern Maine institution, Mister Bagel. I follow the Westbrook River Walk trail that runs alongside the Presumpscot River behind downtown. The trail is a little over a mile long and provides views of the river and mill buildings that were powered by its water. My friend Cat Bates, a jeweler and metalsmith, has a studio in the Dana Warp Mill, a former textile mill that has been converted into offices, artist studios, and other

WHERE WE STAYED PINECREST INN WHERE WE ATE MK KITCHEN MISTER BAGEL KIND STACK SANDWICH CO. SEBAGO BREWING COMPANY THE FROG AND TURTLE WHAT WE DID WESTBROOK RIVER WALK TOURED DANA WARP MILL MAST LANDING BREWING COMPANY BLACK DINAH CHOCOLATIERS MILL BROOK PRESERVE BABB’S BRIDGE WINDY HILL FARM MARKET

48 HOURS 02

EVENING

Burgers and more beer Zach meets me for dinner in Gorham again, this time at Sebago Brewing Company. The brewery also has brewpubs in Scarborough, Portland, and Kennebunk. A new brewery facility, which will also include a tasting room and restaurant, will open in the new year, east of downtown on Main Street. You can’t go wrong ordering a burger here, and I go with the Imperial, with cheddar, a fried egg, bacon, and chipotle aioli. Zach’s shepherd’s pie is generously sized and includes 100 percent grass-fed beef. Bonfire Rye is my favorite of Sebago’s regular beers, so I have a couple pints of this hoppy rye ale.

SUNDAY MORNING

Brunch and brook walks The Frog and Turtle’s Sunday brunch is a popular destination for locals. Unlike most brunch spots in Portland, you can make reservations here. The gastropub’s brunch menu features standard breakfast fare, including several options of eggs Benedict, but what really shines is the house-made doughnuts. They’re made from scratch and fried to order, and you can choose the toppings and fillings.

After a filling breakfast, I head to Mill Brook Preserve for some outdoor exploring. The Presumpscot Regional Land Trust owns this 130acre nature preserve in Westbrook. The preserve has about five miles of trails, which follow Mill Brook between Route 302 and Methodist Road. Sections of the trail near the middle are more difficult, but the entire route offers scenic views of the brook. During late May and early June, alewives can be seen migrating upstream. Snow is covering the trail today, but the well-marked trees make it easy to stay on the trail.

AFTERNOON

Covered bridge and candy stop Driving to Windham next, I stop at Babb’s Bridge, a covered bridge that connects Windham and Gorham over the Presumpscot River. The original Babb’s Bridge was built in the mid-1800s, but vandals burned it down in 1973. The state built a replica of the bridge and reopened it to traffic in 1976. There are rope swings located on the shore of the Gorham side. commercial spaces. I find his door after a few wrong turns down long, cavernous hallways. After showing me around his high-ceilinged studio, he demonstrates a sand casting of one of his necklaces. After hammering a mold of sand, he melts a piece of bronze, then pours in the molten metal to create the piece, a rugged yet elegant design that he’ll finish with a nylon cord.

AFTERNOON

Local brews and chocolates We head over to Mast Landing Brewing Company after Cat cleans up to grab lunch and sample a few beers. I order a Rachel sandwich from Kind Stack Sandwich Co., which is serving food in the tasting room, before picking out some beers. Opened in 2015, Mast Landing has perfected the popular, hazy New England–IPA style and offers

a range of other styles, including a surprisingly nottoo-sweet peanut-butter milk stout called Gunner’s Daughter. In the center of downtown near the start of the Westbrook River Walk is Black Dinah Chocolatiers’ factory and storefront. Kate and Steve Shaffer first opened the confectionery company in 2007 on Isle au Haut before moving operations to Westbrook three years ago. Steve gives me a tour of the production facility, including a station where Kate is sending squares of caramels down a conveyor belt that leads to a curtain of chocolate. Before leaving, I buy two handfuls worth of chocolate, including ancho chile bark, a bark with Maine sea salt and roasted pecans, and assorted truffles, as Christmas stocking stuffers for my girlfriend and other family members.

01 The Presumpscot River flowing by the Dana Warp Mill. 02 Steve Shaffer at Black Dinah Chocolatiers. 03 Jeweler Cat Bates shows a sand cast mold for a necklace. 04 Sampling at Mast Landing Brewing Company. 05 Babb’s Bridge connecting Gorham and Windham.

February 2018 27

48 HOURS 01 Chart & Map Jewelry and Accessories Handmade in Maine

1 Pleasant St, Portland, Maine 207.221.6807 | chartmetalworks.com Before heading home to Portland, I visit Windy Hill Farm Market in Windham. The store sells the farm’s beef and pork, along with lamb and chicken. It also has some specialty grocery items, an impressive candy section, and a freezer stocked with homemade pies. I grab some fresh eggs, steak, and a bag of licorice rope. The trip has highlighted the diversity of experiences—from restaurants to breweries to artisans to trails—just a short drive from home.

FOR NEXT TRIP LODGING IDEAS MICROTEL INN AND SUITES BY WYNDHAM WINDHAM SEBAGO LAKE LODGE AND COTTAGES THE ELMS BED AND BREAKFAST DINING IDEAS LENNY’S AT HAWKES PLAZA BUCK’S NAKED BBQ BREA LU ACTIVITY IDEAS SEACOAST ADVENTURE CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING AT SMILING HILL FARM 33 ELMWOOD SHOPPING IDEAS HAVEN’S CANDIES PLANET DOG WINDHAM JEWELERS ANNUAL EVENTS JUNE: WESTBROOK TOGETHER DAYS JUNE: WINDHAM SUMMERFEST SEPTEMBER: PAINT WESTBROOK

01 A cavernous room in the Dana Warp Mill. 02 Near the start of the Westbrook River Walk. 03 Mill Brook Preserve offers five miles of trails.

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Richard Serra, 4-5-6, 2000, forged weatherproof steel, as seen in the Paul J. Schupf Sculpture Court. Museum purchase from the Jere Abbott Acquisitions Fund, 2000.002; Luis Camnitzer, The Museum Is A School, 2011, site-specific installation. Gift of Seth A. Thayer Jr. ’89 and Gregory N. Tinder in honor of the staff at the Colby College Museum of Art, 2013.509. Photo © Bittermann Photography

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WATERVILLE in 48 Hours BRITTANY COST MANAGING EDITOR OF MOXIE MAINE 01

WHERE WE STAYED PRESSEY HOUSE LAKESIDE BED AND BREAKFAST WHERE WE ATE THE LAST UNICORN UNIVERSAL BREAD BAKERS SELAH TEA CAFE GRAND CENTRAL CAFE RIVERSIDE FARM RESTAURANT AND WINE MARKET WHAT WE DID MAINELY BREWS RESTAURANT AND BREWHOUSE SCHOOL STREET YOGA SIGN OF THE SUN QUARRY ROAD TRAILS MODERN UNDERGROUND HEIRLOOM ANTIQUES AND VINTAGE COMMON STREET ARTS TREE SPIRITS OF MAINE T WO CENT BRIDGE ENCHANTED HERBS AND TEAS JORGENSEN’S CAFE COLBY COLLEGE MUSEUM OF ART

Home to Colby College and Thomas College, and with a history of textile and paper production, Waterville is a city of juxtapositions where Mainers, tourists, and college students “from away” share the same space.

FRIDAY EVENING

Dinner and after-dinner drinks My friend Phi and I arrive at our home base for the weekend, the Pressey House Lakeside Bed and Breakfast in Oakland, about a 15-minute drive from downtown Waterville. With a view of Messalonskee Lake from both our suite and the living room, the bed-and-breakfast is spacious and rustic, especially since much it was previously used as a barn. It’s also decorated for the holidays, as we’re visiting ten days before Christmas. Wreaths hang on the wide windows that look out to the lake, and to a Christmas tree lit up at the end of the dock. Phi and I settle in, and then we head to The Last Unicorn, a Waterville fine-dining staple. To start, we split the pastrami-style smoked salmon, served with pumpernickel bread, cream cheese, and various

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toppings, and a plate of “dragon wings,” fried chicken wings cooked in a spicy Thai sauce. We’re almost full by the time our entrees arrive. We’ve both ordered the special layered panko eggplant and rosemary rubbed lamb rack. Leaving our to-go boxes in the car, we head to Mainely Brews, a classic Maine pub with a range of brews on tap, including six of its own microbrews, for a late-night beer.

SATURDAY MORNING

Staying active indoors and outside At 7:15 a.m. I’m awake and dressed in leggings and a sweatshirt for my morning yoga class. For breakfast, our host, Sharon, makes me a potato omelet, a blueberry scone drizzled with a sweet, lemony glaze, and sausages accompanied by a cup of fresh fruit. By 8:30 a.m., I’m seated cross-legged on a yoga mat facing Jeri Wilson, co-owner of School Street Yoga. Intended for practitioners of various levels

with some degree of experience, the class is upbeat and refreshing, ending with a longer meditation than I’m used to. Afterward, Phi and I stop by Universal Bread Bakers for a French loaf, which we save in plastic wrapping for the afternoon, and Selah Tea Cafe for coffee and snacks. Phi orders an avocado breakfast sandwich and a strawberry banana smoothie, a choice that the owner’s young daughter, Naomi, endorses from behind the bar. I drink a Kyoto rose tea, which comes with an hourglass timer for optimal brewing. We plan to go cross-country skiing next, but I forgot my gloves, so we walk to Sign of the Sun, an eclectic, colorful shop on Silver Street. I purchase red mittens and a brass tree-of-life wind chime, a Christmas present for my stepmother. Quarry Road Trails has several Community Ski Free Days throughout the winter, when the facility offers free cross-country skiing courses and ski rentals. I already know the basics of crosscountry skiing, so we skip the lesson and explore the area, which offers 10 kilometers of groomed trails, 3 kilometers of which have snowmaking capability.

48 HOURS 02

01 A Dragon’s Smooch pizza from Grand Central Cafe, topped with anchovies, roasted red peppers, red onion, garlic, and crumbled feta. 02 A home-cooked breakfast at the Pressey House Lakeside Bed and Breakfast. 03 Grand Central Cafe in Railroad Square. 04 Before several mills closed, workers would pay a two-cent toll to cross the footbridge between Winslow, where many of them lived, and Waterville.

AFTERNOON

Spirits and shopping In the early afternoon, we check out Modern Underground, a furnishings and home goods store specializing in midcentury pieces. Its name refers to more than its retro, under-the-radar finds: the shop is run out of a basement. Owner Brian Kallgren shows us his favorite item currently in stock, a 1950 built-in stereo by George Nelson for Herman Miller. Kallgren likes to tinker with old-fashioned electronics, and the stereo still works, so he plays us some music, both with the radio—it only gets the country station, he tells us— and with the record player. Phi buys a late-1940s to early-1950s typewriter by Hermès on layover. Across the street at Heirloom Antiques and Vintage, I pick out a white Saks Fifth Avenue tuxedo jacket

with brocade embroidery and black lapels and a suit jacket originally from Benoit’s, a Maine department store long out of business. Heirloom’s owner, Nicole Sulea, tells us that downtown Waterville used to be lined with mansions, whose residents shopped for couture goods, both from Maine and abroad. Her dog, Gracie, hops her front feet up onto the glass counter to get a better look at the shop’s customers. Hungry, we split an anchovy and pesto pizza called Dragon’s Smooch at Grand Central Cafe. Famous for its creative, wood-fired brick-oven pizzas, the restaurant also features bright colors and quirky decorations, such as the doll dressed in patchwork clothes that sits on the windowsill above our table. Before the sun sets, we make it to Common Street Arts, a nonprofit, collaborative arts space, for its

pop-up holiday bazaar, a juried exhibition of works by craftspeople and artists from around the state. Then we drive back to Oakland for a tasting at Tree Spirits of Maine. At the tasting room, owners Bruce Olson and Karen Heck offer us small pours of their apple, maple, and pear wines (the distillery doesn’t use grapes), their “subLimes”—brandies blended with fruit juices—and their fruit and maple spirits. The only distillers of absinthe in New England, they also serve us a taste of that spirit in a traditional threechambered reservoir glass.

EVENING

A relaxing dinner and downtime For our last meal of the day, we dine at Riverside Farm Restaurant and Wine Market in

February 2018 33

48 HOURS

03 FOR NEXT TRIP

Oakland. Softly lit and decorated with vines, the space is relaxing, and our food—crab cakes and a salad of candied walnuts, roasted squash, apples, and dried cranberries topped with salmon—is fresh and filling. Although we had wanted to catch a movie at Railroad Square Cinema, I’ve already seen most of the films being shown, so I head back to the bed-and-breakfast early while Phi drives to Auburn for work.

SUNDAY MORNING

Discovering art and scenic landmarks Still full from the night before, I grab a tea from Jorgensen’s Cafe, and feeling a cold coming on,

I stop at Enchanted Herbs and Teas for a box of tea. After warming up in the car, I walk out onto the Two Cent Bridge, a wire-cable suspension bridge connecting Waterville and Winslow. Built in 1901, the footbridge originally charged crossers a two-cent toll and was aimed primarily at mill workers. At noon, the Colby College Museum of Art opens. I’m more interested in contemporary works, and I particularly like Philip Taaffe’s Garden of Extinct Leaves and Joan Mitchell’s Chamrousse. The museum also features works by Maine-based artists, such David Driskell, Lois Dodd, and Alex Katz, the last of whom donated over 400 artworks to the museum. While 48 hours might be too short for a place like Waterville, I’ve gotten a taste of what the town offers, and since it’s only an hour and a quarter from Portland, I can always come back.

LODGING IDEAS HAMPTON INN WATERVILLE THE PLEASANT STREET INN DINING IDEAS BUEN APETITO ITALI-AH MARKET AND RESTAURANT THE PROPER PIG ACTIVITY IDEAS WATERVILLE OPERA HOUSE DOWNTOWN WATERVILLE FARMERS MARKET RAILROAD SQUARE CINEMA SHOPPING IDEAS DAY’S JEWELERS CHRISTOPHER HASTINGS CONFECTIONS MAINE MADE AND MORE ANNUAL EVENTS JULY: MAINE INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL AUGUST: TASTE OF WATERVILLE OCTOBER: HARVEST FEST

01 A late-1940s to early-1950s typewriter by Hermès at Modern Underground. 02 Open to the public, the Colby College Museum of Art specializes in work by American artists. 03 Cross-country skiing at Quarry Road Trails. 04 You will find a variety of Maine-made wines and liquors at Tree Spirits of Maine in Oakland. 05 At Heirloom Antiques and Vintage, ample shirts line the shelves below a row of vintage picture cards. 34

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A-LIST by Joel Kuschke Photography by Peter Frank Edwards

ICE - FISHING SPOTS Ice fishing isn’t just recreation—it’s a lifestyle. Joel Kuschke, art director of Maine magazine, offers his top recommendations for ice fishing around the state. Portage Lake | bait shop: Ashland 1 Stop, Ashland

Just over an hour from the Canadian border in Aroostook County, Portage Lake is a famous destination for salmon and trout. Many anglers spend winters at camps in the region and use snowmobiles as their primary mode of transportation.

Sebago Lake | bait shop: Jordan’s Store, Sebago

In southern Maine, Sebago Lake’s waters attract anglers in search of large lake trout or togue. The lake doesn’t always freeze over, so take to the ice with caution.

Long Lake | bait shop: Northstar Variety, New Sweden

Known for its wealth of salmon, Long Lake in northern Maine is the perfect spot for beers and snacks with a group of friends. After a day on the ice, grab dinner at the famous Long Lake Sporting Club, which specializes in seafood, ribs, and steak.

Moosehead Lake | bait shop: Indian Hill Trading Post, Greenville

Maine’s largest lake offers anglers a chance to catch some of the state’s largest fish. Famous for its trophy lake trout as well as a healthy population of brook trout, the lake is a can’t-miss destination for novices and seasoned fishers alike.

Hancock Pond | bait shop: Jordan’s Store, Sebago

Near both Long and Sebago Lakes, Hancock Pond is popular with anglers in search of brown trout. However, success doesn’t always come easy—patience is important in ice fishing, particularly at Hancock Pond, where fish can be slow to bite. When they do, however, you have a chance at some of the largest in the state.

Kennebec River | bait shop: Baker’s Smelt Camps

Baker’s Smelt Camps on the Kennebec River in Pittston has everything you’ll need to fish for smelt, which are small fish that migrate upstream during the winter to spawn. Rent a shack with a group of friends, bait your row of lines, and pan-fry your catch over the woodstove.

Opposite: A day’s ice-fishing catch of largemouth and smallmouth bass. February 2018 41

WELLNESS by Dr. Lisa Belisle Photography by Matt Cosby

FROZEN FACE-OFF

C A M A R A D E R I E A B O U N D S A S S K AT E R S B R AV E T H E E L E M E N T S AT T H E A N N U A L M A I N E P O N D H O C K E Y C L A S S I C

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February 2018 43

WELLNESS Pond Hockey

A LUMIN0US M00N and a sprinkle of stars have emerged above the trees that encircle Messalonskee Lake. Shuffling carefully across its frozen surface, shadowy figures break through plumes of mist, as the warmth of their breath quickly dissipates in the sharp winter air. Spectators huddle around heat lamps watching well-padded hockey players get their bearings on the rough surfaces of nine temporary rectangular rinks prepared by volunteers for this weekend’s tournament. The night is silent, save for the sound of steel on ice and the occasional joyous cheer as a practice puck hits its intended target under the floodlights. The Maine Pond Hockey Classic represents a transformative elixir: the outdoor competition and camaraderie returns adults back to the way they were as schoolchildren, skating and sliding and laughing around their hometown rinks. Founded in 2013, the Maine Pond Hockey Classic (MPHC) is a fundraiser for the Waterville Area Boys and Girls Club and YMCA at the Alfond Youth Center. It attracts participants from all over Maine as well as more far-flung locales like New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and Nova Scotia, Canada. Many of the teams are composed of former Mainers. “If you’re from Maine, there’s always something that draws you back,” says MPHC tournament director Patrick Guerette, who also works as the operations director at the Alfond Youth Center. “For people that are out of state, this is their opportunity to experience their childhood winter as an adult.” In 2017 there were 440 players on 62 teams. This number has grown every year. “I didn’t start playing organized hockey until I was a

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sophomore in high school. For me, pond hockey was all I really knew,” says Guerette, who grew up in central Maine, graduated from the University of Maine in Orono, and lived for several years in Massachusetts before returning home. Guerette explains that pond hockey differs from hockey played on an indoor rink, mainly due to the variability in surface conditions. “The ice is always going to be a little imperfect,” says Guerette. “You never know what the puck’s going to do. Pond hockey really works on fundamentals like handeye coordination. It’s much less of a skating game and more of a passing and stick-handling game.” Guerette suggested starting a pond hockey tournament after reading an article in USA Hockey Magazine. “There’s a grassroots movement back to that,” says Guerette. In pond hockey, “kids are touching the puck more and having more opportunities to try things and make mistakes.” When Guerette started working at the Alfond Youth Center in 2014, he met with the CEO and floated the possibility of a tournament. “The idea was fresh in my brain, and he challenged me to put it together. Five years later, here we are.” The Alfond Youth Center offers programs to children and developmentally delayed adults in the Waterville area. These include after-school instruction, athletic activities, summer camp, and supplementary meals. Many of those who attend the Alfond Youth Center are economically challenged: 72 percent of the students in the after-school program are eligible for the federal government’s free and reduced lunch program and pay no fees to attend the center.

Previous spread: The red-jerseyed South Portland Fire Department team plays against Mad Hatters Pub from Westbrook as flakes fly. Opposite: Moonrise above Alumni Hall at the Snow Pond Center for the Arts. This page, from left: Maine Pond Hockey Classic tournament director Patrick Guerette is the operations manager at the Alfond Youth Center. South Portland Fire Department players head back to the pond.

The tournament takes place at the Snow Pond Center for the Arts on Messalonskee Lake (also called Snow Pond) in Sidney, a short drive south of the Alfond Youth Center. For the first two years, organizers held the tournament on China Lake. As the event grew, it became clear that they would need more space for parking and other amenities. Moving to the campus of the 175-acre Snow Pond Center for the Arts has increased the visibility of the pond hockey tournament because it is close to the Sidney boat landing. “Messalonskee Lake is a very popular ice-fishing spot,” says Guerette. “We get a lot of ice fishermen who’ll say, ‘Hey, what’s going on over there? Let me check it out.’ We encourage that, because it adds something for the players, to have spectators around cheering them on.” A series of snow-crusted staircases and shoveled paths snakes its way from

Messalonskee Lake to the lodge at the Snow Pond Center for the Arts. Home to the New England Music Camp, which was established in 1937, the center also hosts the two-year-old Snow Pond Arts Academy, a free public charter high school that focuses on the performing and visual arts. This weekend the lodge has been transformed into a staging area for the pond hockey teams. Folding chairs, normally used by campers and high school students, are lined up like the waiting room of a bus station; steamer-trunk-size bags of equipment are piled high on the wooden floor. Players clad in matching oversized jerseys with their team names, such as Hat-Trick Swayze and Jurassic Puck, gather in clusters to look at the next day’s schedule. A woman tucks her blonde braid into her hat and pulls on padding as she talks strategy with a stubblefaced man who has just removed his helmet and is patting a Labrador retriever wearing

a kerchief. The faint locker-room aroma of warm bodies—mostly human, with a whiff of canine—is disrupted by a gust of chilled air as another tournament registrant enters from the porch, stomping his boots to remove the winter grit. In past years, the MPHC has erected a tent on the ice next to the rinks so that players can recuperate between games. High winds have made a tent impossible this year. Instead, people are congregating in an alternative space: a cordoned-off beer garden in an adjacent room. They seem undeterred by the change in venue, enjoying their Friday night libations as the song “Sweet Child o’ Mine” cuts through a cacophony of voices. All types of winter weather—wind, precipitation, and extremes of both warmth and cold—can impact the MPHC. Three years ago, organizers cancelled the tournament because there

February 2018 45

Members of the Mostly Ex-Ponies from Hermon take a break under the lights. Opposite, from left: Raised in Millinocket, South Portland firefighter Joshua Perry has a longtime love of the ice. Their jerseys may be different, but a love of hockey creates a strong bond between those who watch and play.

was too much heavy snow, which was causing the ice to break. “We learned a lot that year about what to do and what not to do,” says Guerette. Saturday begins with flurries, and temperatures that have not yet broken single digits. Despite this, the patchwork landscape of temporary rinks—each one 70 by 140 feet, bounded by a packed snow perimeter—is alive with skaters who have begun round-robin play. Several of the teams are staying in nearby family camps that are heated only by woodstoves. They seem none the worse for wear. Each game is played in 15-minute halves, with four players per team on the ice at one time. There are no goalies guarding the “nets” made of two-by-fours. Everyone has an understanding of the rules, and good sportsmanship is expected. “Nobody goes in the penalty box unless there’s an extreme violation,” says Guerette. “A lot of it is making sure that we have mutual respect and admiration. We all have to go to work on 46

maine | themainemag.com

Monday, so let’s not get anybody hurt; let’s have fun and play hockey.”

"GROWING UP IN MAINE, AS COLD AS THE WINTERS ARE AND AS MUCH SNOW, YOU'VE GOT TO GET OUTSIDE AND ENJOY IT."

Teams register for the tournament based on their players’ level of experience. More competitive players—those who may have played hockey in prep or high school or college—choose between the Open A or B divisions. There are also a recreational division, a 40-plus division (featuring a team that calls itself the Old Buzzards), and a Just 4 Fun division. Joshua Perry is a firefighter and paramedic for the South Portland Fire Department, which is fielding two teams in the recreational division. This morning, the red-jerseyed SoPo Fire teams are first up against Blades of Steel and Mad Hatter’s Pub. This is the second year that Perry and his colleagues have participated in the tournament. “We’re just in it to have a good time and to hang out with each other,” says Perry. “We’re a small department with three different stations and four shifts,

so we don’t always get to see some of the guys. This is a great way for us to hang out together and spend time with our other coworkers.” Perry has skated for three decades. He grew up in Millinocket. “We had a lot of lakes and ponds that we could skate on if the weather cooperated, ” says Perry. His town also had a public indoor skating rink and organized hockey teams, but he always had a fondness for outdoor ice. “You could practice different things, be creative, and just have fun with your friends,” says Perry. “You don’t have that structure and pressure from practices and games and everything.” Perry brought his hockey gear along when he joined the air force, spending three years in Montana and five years in Germany. Although he enjoyed playing out of state, “after spending eight years away I was pretty excited to come back home.” Across the ice, a group of brave souls has

gathered for the Alfond Youth Center’s yearly Polar Bear Dip. This event, which was previously separate from the MPHC, has been taking place for almost a quarter of a century. It raises money for the Kids’ Kitchen, which serves 40,000 hot meals a year to 200 children after school at the center. Many of these children say it is their last meal of the day. Polar Bear dippers sport a wide variety of festive outerwear— from chicken costumes to Hawaiian shirts—most of which is removed before they jump, in groups of two, into a hole that has been drilled through the ice. A crowd gathers to watch them plunge below the surface then climb, teeth chattering, back out again. On Sunday, teams from the Open A and B, recreational, and 40-plus divisions continue their quest for one of the coveted MPHC awards. Neither of the SoPo Fire teams make the tournament bracket, but Mad Hatter’s Pub and Blades of Steel both

continue on. Once all of the games have been played, the Mad Hatter’s Pub team will have earned itself a trophy fashioned out of repurposed hockey sticks, glued together and cut in the shape of the Pine Tree State by Kris Reynolds of Reynolds Custom Woodworks in Winslow. The Ducks, the MAHL Saints, and the Punishers receive top honors in their respective divisions. For Perry and other players, the experience of playing hockey outside with friends makes the tournament worthwhile, win or lose. “Growing up in Maine, as cold as the winters are and as much snow, you’ve got to get outside and enjoy it.” He hopes that his young son will someday feel the same way. “We’re out on the pond two blocks from our house, and this is the first year he’s really been interested in skating. To watch him take his first skates was almost as proud of a moment as watching him take his first steps.”

February 2018 47

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Get to know your neighbors. PODCAST

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VANESSA SEDER Vanessa Seder is a chef, food stylist, recipe developer, teacher, author, and founding member of Relish&Co., a Portland-based culinary design collaborative. Her new book, Secret Sauces, was published in autumn of 2017.

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Rob Whitten is the founder of Whitten Architects, a residential architecture firm based in Portland. Todd Richardson, a landscape architect, is the owner of Richardson and Associates in Saco.

SHAY STEWART-BOULEY

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Shay Stewart-Bouley is the executive director of Community Change, a nearly 50-year-old anti-racism organization based in Boston that organizes and educates for racial equity with a specific focus on working with white people. She is also the creator of the well-known blog, "Black Girl in Maine."

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BARRETT TAKESIAN

Executive director of Portland Community Squash EPISODE #325

Barrett Takesian spent his early years living near his family’s boatyard in Southwest Harbor. “Despite having sailing all around me, I was a high-energy kid, so my preferred activity in that small town was throwing a ball against the barn,” says Takesian. “When the winter came, I moved up to the attic. I thought I was Nomar Garciaparra” (the Red Sox shortstop). After relocating to Boston, Takesian took up a different high-energy pastime: the game of squash. Squash players use stringed racquets to direct a small, hollow rubber ball across a four-walled court. Well known in Europe, the sport is still gaining popularity in the United States. “In this country, we have more collegiate squash positions than we do high school squash positions,” says Takesian, who returned to Maine to play squash at Bowdoin College in Brunswick. “A lot of the collegiate teams recruit international students to come in and play for these programs.” After graduating from Bowdoin with a degree in economics and environmental science, Takesian worked briefly at Unum in South Portland before becoming the executive director of Portland Community Squash. Portland Community Squash began in 2013 as an informal league of players at the Portland YMCA. The organization soon outgrew that building’s four nonregulation courts. In January 2017 the nonprofit organization opened its own facility—this one with four regulation courts—in the building formerly occupied by the Congregation Shaarey Tphiloh synagogue on Noyes Street in Portland. In addition to offering memberships to individuals and families, Portland Community Squash serves approximately 120 students from local elementary, middle, and high schools. “There is a really powerful community at Portland Community Squash,” says Takesian. “We use it as a hook and a common ground to bring together every demographic in Portland.” Takesian hopes that his favorite sport may someday provide a path to higher education for those who might not otherwise have that opportunity. “When you walk into our facility, there are college banners hanging over every inch of the space,” says Takesian. “We’re trying to encourage two things: passion and community. We think those are the two things that’ll carry you all the way through.”

LISTEN TO THE FULL INTERVIEW Love Maine Radio airs Sundays on WPEI 95.9 FM at 7 a.m. and on WLOB 1310 AM at noon. Past episodes are available for streaming at lovemaineradio.com. Subscribe on iTunes or wherever you get your podcasts. February 2018 51

BY PHILIP CONKLING PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICOLE WOLF

FROM FISHING TO RESEARC H TO MAINE MARINE PAT R O L , C O R R I E R O B E R T S H A S F O U N D H E R S E A L E G S 52

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PROFILE by Phillip Conkling Photography by Nicole Wolf

February 2018 53

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PROFILE

orrie Roberts, the captain of the Maine Marine Patrol’s flagship vessel, walks down the pier in baggy fatigues, sea bag over her shoulder, Glock on her hip, and a crooked grin on her face, then she boards the Guardian III. At 56, she has a few streaks of gray hair, but otherwise looks the same as when we worked together a decade and a half ago, when she skippered her own marine research vessel. Roberts invites me into the pilothouse of Guardian’s nicely finished 46-foot Wesmac hull, powered by a 1,300-horsepower Man engine. This fast but solidly built vessel was specifically tailored for the Maine Marine Patrol’s offshore work. On this blustery morning at Rockland’s busy working waterfront, Roberts has just come from a whale-entanglement training meeting and is a bit behind schedule. She is one of ten specially trained Marine Patrol officers authorized to approach endangered whales in the Gulf of Maine. The training

is detailed because the risks are high. Just this past summer, a whale-entanglement specialist operating in the Bay of Fundy near Eastport was killed when trying to free a North Atlantic right whale from fishing gear. Roberts wishes that more fishermen would call in the Marine Patrol when they find a whale entangled in gear. “But fishermen want to get incriminating gear off,” she says, even though clumsy attempts to remove it can kill the whales. Roberts’s daily schedule is packed. Like other Marine Patrol officers, she works six days on, two off, followed by six days on and then three off. But even so, she says, “You are on call 24 hours—we are the ones that respond to emergencies. You can’t leave the area; you have to have your phone on you— and not on vibrate,” she adds. In October 2015 she got one of those calls from her supervisor, Matt Talbot. “Get down to the Protector now,” is all he had time to tell her. Roberts met Talbot at the Protector, a 32-foot fast rigid-hull boat with

Corrie Roberts

twin 225-horsepower outboards tied up at the Rockland Ferry terminal, and they took off. On the way out, Talbot told her that the Coast Guard had radioed in a report of a runaway boat with an unconscious male aboard. The Coast Guard was on the scene with its 44-footer, but they couldn’t get alongside the North Haven lobster boat, the Legacy, in the heavy seas being whipped into frothy whitecaps by 30-knot winds. “We were airborne on the way out in a steep chop,” says Roberts, “hitting the tops of waves.” When Roberts and Talbot arrived, the Legacy was circling at full throttle trailing a long line attached to a Polyform buoy. A local fisherman had thrown the line aboard to try to stop the engine by fouling its propeller, but this made the situation all the more dangerous. “Normally you want to board a runaway vessel on the inside,” says Roberts, explaining that, when a runaway vessel is turning toward you, it’s easier to attempt to board it, “but that wasn’t going to happen, because if we fouled that trailing line, it would be a disaster.” If the Protector’s

Previous spread: The fishing vessel Robert Michael, under contract with Maine’s Department of Marine Resources to conduct a fall trawl survey. Opposite: Captain Corrie Roberts on the stern of the Guardian. This page: The Guardian heads offshore. February 2018 55

outboard propellers had gotten wound up in the line, she explains it could have flipped the lightweight vessel over. Several Coast Guard members on the 44-footer were ready to go with jump helmets and life vests, and radioed for the Protector to take them aboard for the rescue, but they were awaiting permission from their supervisor. Meanwhile the lobster boat was getting closer and closer to the rocks. “We waited a couple of minutes, but then Matt said, ‘We don’t have time for this,’” Roberts says. She knew she would have to try to board an out-of-control vessel at full throttle on the outside. “We tried to match our speed with the speed of the lobster boat,” says Roberts. “On the first pass, I got my foot on the stern quarter, but then the boat slipped away,” she continues. “The second pass didn’t go so well either. In any of these things, you have to be hard up against the other boat—you have to be in contact with the rail.” Roberts credits Talbot with expert helmsmanship. “He and I both had a lot of heavy weather

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experience,” says Roberts. On the last pass, the timing was perfect, and Roberts “just stepped aboard and got control of the boat,” before it went up on the rocks. Roberts’s account of this rescue sounds straightforward until you watch a YouTube video of the incident shot from ashore. The Legacy spins wildly past the Vinalhaven ferry, and you catch a glimpse of Roberts crouched on the gunwale of the Protector, back-to, hanging on to handrails as they close in on the lurching vessel, waiting for that single adrenaline-fueled instant when she can board. Once aboard, Roberts hauled back on the throttle. The Coast Guard members were able to get aboard and start CPR as Roberts “booked it” for the harbor, where an ambulance waited with emergency resuscitation equipment. But the fisherman had suffered an aortic aneurysm, and did not survive. Roberts’s life on the water began with considerably less drama. Roberts had

moved to Wiscasset from California with her parents and sister in 1971 when she was ten. “We lived right on the Sheepscot River. I got involved in a sailing program on Westport Island,” she recalls, “and discovered you could get places on the water. Back when there was still a bridge at Westport, I learned you could take the mast down and shoot under the causeway into Montsweag Bay and get down to Boothbay.” The world of boats in Boothbay Harbor beckoned, and she began working in boatyards as an eighth grader. Soon Roberts had saved up enough money to buy a small Whaler with an outboard engine. When she began high school, her studies were a distinctly secondary consideration. Her parents, however, had academic aspirations for her, and sent her to Gould Academy in Bethel. It was far from the ocean, but for her senior thesis, Roberts nevertheless completed a project on the ecology of the intertidal zone off Clark Cove in the Damariscotta River, and also learned how to scuba dive. Roberts enrolled at the University of California, Santa Cruz, where

she graduated with a degree in marine biology in 1983. After college, Roberts wanted to get into marine science, but, she says, “I was never willing to pay my dues and work in a lab. I was not patient enough.” So Roberts began working on the water, doing whatever she could to make a living. She pitchforked mussels, sold oysters, and dove for scallops and urchins in an early vintage dry suit. Eventually she bought her own fishing boat, a strip-built Novi boat—20 feet long with a 90-horsepower Mercury from Stetson and Pinkham. In the late winter, when work on the water was scarce, she began to drive a truck for a fisherman who was buying groundfish and mussels in South Bristol to deliver to North End fish markets in Boston. “I like to drive big things,” Roberts says, “and I liked setting my own schedule, deciding when to stop and eat.” Roberts hired the fisherman’s brother to be her tender on her Novi boat while diving for scallops in Muscongus Bay. On a particularly memorable day, Roberts had put out her dive flags, marking the area where she was diving, and gone over the side. She collected nearly a full bag of scallops and used most of her tank of air, but unbeknownst to her, her tender had wandered away from the dive site. When Roberts heard the vibrations of another

boat overhead and saw a bubble trail over her left shoulder from a scallop drag’s wire slicing through the water, she knew she was in big trouble. Getting tangled in a scallop drag’s heavy steel gear could easily be fatal. With no time to think, Roberts instinctively spun to her right and pushed the drag off with her left hand. She barely escaped the drag, but her bag of scallops disappeared into it. After she got back aboard her boat and had some choice words with her tender, she approached the scallop dragger to retrieve her scallops. That’s when she learned another hard lesson on the water: those scallops were no longer hers. Roberts’s next waterfront gig involved driving truckloads of fish and shellfish to Boston, New York, and Philadelphia. She started out working with smaller fish businesses that had partial loads of 20 to 30 boxes of fish to sell, then graduated to driving tractor-trailer loads of mahogany clams throughout the Northeast. Through the connections she made in this business, Roberts was introduced to the O’Hara Corporation in Rockland, “who were landing hake like you wouldn’t believe during the mid-to-late ’80s.” Roberts worked driving trucks for the fishing company for a decade. “That was the heyday,” she says, before chronic overfishing depleted stocks in the Gulf of Maine. “We caught the last fish. I was still in my 20s, working hard. Finally, I said, ‘I’m

done.’ I was burned out.” Roberts moved to Orono and started a second degree in music, another longtime passion of hers. She thought she might become a studio musician, perhaps in Nashville, and to fuel this passion she began substitute teaching to earn a living. In a studio photo of her with her base guitar taken at the time, she looks every bit the part of a sideman in a country and western band. That’s when Roberts’s sister told her of a job posting looking for a certified scuba diver with experience in marine science and aquaculture to run a boat. “It’s perfect for you,” her sister told her. The project involved supporting the Penobscot Bay Marine Collaborative, a federally funded project coordinated by the Island Institute, and this is how I first met Roberts. The focus of the research was collecting ecological information on the lobster fishery in Penobscot Bay to determine whether lobsters were being overfished. Although the applicant pool included many other talented people with experience on the water, I had never met anyone with Roberts’s unusual combination of knowledge and skills, and I hired her on the spot. As the lobster project expanded, Roberts supported divers collecting baby lobsters from nursery areas and surveyed bottom types with remotely operated underwater

Whitehead Light at the southern end of the Muscle Ridge Channel.

February 2018 57

PROFILE

Corrie Roberts

IN MARCH OF 2017 THE U.S. COAST GUARD AWARDED ROBERTS THE SILVER STAR LIFESAVING MEDAL FOR HER BOARDING OF THE LEGACY.

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videos. Before long Roberts saw an opportunity to captain her own research boat. She commissioned a 36-foot Calvin Beal vessel, which she rigged as a marine research platform. She went back out on her own as owner-operator of the Alice Siegmund, named after her mother. But marine science work, like fishing, proved to be an up-and-down business. As scientists began analyzing the reams of data they had collected during the five-year Pen Bay Collaborative project, the demand for field work dropped away. After the project ended, one of the participants, Carl Wilson, who had become Maine’s Department of Marine Resources chief lobster biologist, called Roberts to let her know of an opening for the captain’s position on DMR’s flagship vessel, the Guardian, a position that involves enforcing the Department’s strict fishing regulations. Her first reaction was to laugh. Me, she thought, in law enforcement? But she had

always loved crime shows, especially those that had “chick cops,” she said, and Roberts got the job in 2006. Ever since, Roberts’s boat life has covered large portions of the Gulf of Maine. “My job is to go wherever anyone has an issue,” she told me. She deals daily with untagged lobster gear, as well as problems in the herring, scallop, and urchin fisheries. “Any type of gear conflict, we’re present.” Roberts and her team of five other Marine Patrol officers focus on hauling gear or boarding boats. They do search and rescue and assist other agencies, including the Maine State Police. “Basically we’re cops. We go to the Police Academy, but we have a passion for conservation law.” In March of 2017 the U.S. Coast Guard awarded Roberts the Silver Star Lifesaving Medal and Talbot a Certificate of Valor for their boarding of the Legacy. The Coast Guard cited their “quick and decisive action

under extremely challenging circumstances to bring a difficult and dangerous situation to a closure,” according to the citation at the ceremony where the Governor Paul LePage presented the awards. Roberts did not think too much about the award until sometime later, when she was speaking with the crew of the Coast Guard’s largest vessel in Rockland, the Abbie Burgess. That’s when she learned that the Silver Star is the highest award given to non–Coast Guard individuals. The crew of the Abbie Burgess told her they had never met anyone else who had received that award. For those, like Roberts, who have risked their life in service to another, awards are the least of it. To Roberts, an infinitely changing, relentlessly challenging life on the waters of the Gulf of Maine is her real reward.

Opposite, from top: The 46-foot Guardian glides out of Rockland Harbor. Roberts in the pilothouse of the Guardian. This page: Roberts with crew officer Matt Wyman. February 2018 59

The 2018 PMA Biennial underscores Maine’s impact on contemporary art by highlighting exciting works by artists connected to the state.

Seven Congress Square, Portland, Maine | (207) 775-6148 | PortlandMuseum.org The 2018 Portland Museum of Art Biennial is made possible by the William E. and Helen E. Thon Endowment Fund with additional support by the PMA Contemporaries.

JANUARY 26–JUNE 3, 2018

Above: Angela Dufresne (United States, born 1969), Dean Moss, 2017, oil on canvas, 59 1/2 x 78 inches. Courtesy of the artist. © Angela Dufresne. Photo by Luc Demers

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345 Main St., Rockland, Maine RocklandStrand.com • 207.594.0070

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MAIN STAY,

ROCKLAND by

SANDY LANG photography by

PETER FRANK EDWARDS

The wind is blowing big, swirling flakes, and it feels like itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s carrying us, too, right into Rockland.

Getting closer to the winter views, overlooking a cove at Owls Head State Park at the edge of Rockland Harbor. February 2018 65

Main Street in Rockland is lined with art galleries, cafes, and shops, and is home to the renovated, circa-1923 Strand Theatre (at left) and the museum shop entrance of the Farnsworth Art Museum (at right). 66 maine | themainemag.com

We’re driving in from the Camden Hills and a sudden whip of wind creates a midmorning white-gray haze across the road. There’s no line of traffic today on Route 1, now that we’re far from the season of schooners, lobster, and sunshine. All’s quieter now. It’s March on the midcoast. Turning at the sign for the Samoset Resort, we follow the road past windswept lawns that are snow-coated white, then stop near the parking area for the Rockland Breakwater, a jetty that stretches more than three-quarters of a mile into Penobscot Bay with the harbor’s lighthouse at the end. I have the idea to walk out there for seawater views in the wintry gusts, but we can’t even get close. A winter’s worth of snow from the roadway has been plowed into piles here, and there’s no clear way to get to the breakwater trail. It’ll have to remain, for now, simply a distant line out into the choppy gray bay. We have started out again when we get a few texts from an old friend who’s been snowboarding up at Sunday River and wants to join us for some fun on the coast. “Sushi or a honky tonk?” he writes, and sends a picture of a Narragansett tallboy. “Either one’s perfect.”

“Get here!” I write back (my companion, photographer Peter Frank Edwards, is driving). By then we’re passing Wasses, and I picture warmer days past—the order windows open wide and me waiting in line for hot dogs in the sea breeze, getting enticing whiffs of onions grilling. (My go-to order includes a side of fries and a chocolate milk from the serve-yourself cooler.) By the time we’re in the heart of downtown Rockland, a city of about 7,300, the fast front of blustery snowfall is finished, but the wind and chill continue. We loop around the one-way configuration of streets to scope out the stores and cafes of Main Street—some are closed for the season, but there are definitely signs of life. We pass the terminal for ferry boats to the islands of Vinalhaven and North Haven. We’re not here for a boat ride this time, but we’re soon pulling up to the angular lines of a boatbuilder’s hotel. February 2018 67

SHIPSHAPE 250 MAIN Our lodging for the next two nights is on the corner of Main and Pleasant Streets. Opened in 2016, this is 250 Main Hotel. A young man in a trim dark suit greets us, speaking in a British accent as he shows us around the lobby. Would we like a coffee? Manning the desk that afternoon, Orlando Johnson explains that the hotel serves Rock City Coffee—the longtime roaster is just next door. There will be pastries and yogurt here in the mornings, he explains, and wine will be poured at the daily guest social that begins in a few hours. (On warmer days, the social is held on the rooftop. We check out that vantage point later, carefully stepping across ice-topped snow to see the city and bay views.) Above the modern, low-profile couches and chairs in the lobby, the ceiling is lined with a mix of metal and wooden rafters. It’s a linear, calming backdrop for a collection of contemporary art originals— including a Sam Cady painting above the fireplace, of an island that looks real enough to be afloat. Our room for the next couple of nights is on the fifth-floor corner, with tall windows and views toward the bay and Owls Head. There are paintings and sculptures by local artists on display on every floor—a gallery of pieces that changes as art is sold. The next morning, we have the chance to meet the hotel’s owner. “I don’t think this kind of hotel can get stale,” Cabot Lyman explains. It’s the first such project by the Thomaston boatbuilder. Also the owner and founder of Lyman-Morse Boatbuilding, Lyman has sailed the world with his wife, Heidi, and their three sons. They fitted out the hotel with yacht-style details, including fiberglass inserts for the showers that were made at the boatyard and that, Lyman notes, are “elegant and so easy to clean.” There’s reclaimed wood throughout, including plenty of mahogany, Lyman’s favorite. Just today he stopped by to see the delivery of a mahogany coffee table for the lobby, made from a beautiful piece of salvaged wood from the boatyard. Several yards long, it fits perfectly in front of the broad fireplace. Smiling at the furniture addition, Lyman explains that, when he first came to this 68

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Yachtsman and boatbuilder Cabot Lyman at 250 Main Hotel, the modern urban lodging he built on Main Street in Rockland. Opposite: Winter sunlight warms a cozy room at the 26-unit Rockland hotel named for its street address.

area some 40 years ago to start a boatyard, “You didn’t want to go out at night.” He considers Rockland “one of the most changed towns in the U.S. in the past 15 years,” as it’s evolved from an economy built around fishing, logging, and quarries to one focused on the arts and food. And he’s proud to be part of it. The building process was stressful, he admits, “But now that it’s done, it’s pretty cool.” And for guests like us, the Main Street location means that we can walk to almost everything we want to do.

ART IN THE HEART

Back outside and on foot this time, we make our way toward the Center for Maine Contemporary Art (CMCA) on Winter Street. The building is industrial looking, like a polished and glassy shorefront warehouse. Daylight flows in from windows on the walls and above. We hang up our coats and walk through. It’s nice to view art this way, with no time pressures or distractions. We take our time to sit

February 2018 69

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Opposite: Artist and gallerist Orlando Johnson at the Black Hole gallery, 403 Main Street. This page, clockwise from top left: Windswept, white, and not even a footprint in this snowy field near the Samoset Resort. Viewing the changing exhibitions at the Center for Maine Contemporary Art (CMCA) on Winter Street. A sculpture by Ogunquit-based Jonathan Borofsky outside the CMCA’s entrance. Two-dimensional works with a threedimensional effect in a show by Maine artist Sam Cady at the CMCA.

and stand and look at the show’s realist paintings from Maine-born Sam Cady, who through much of his career has split time each year between New York and coastal Maine. Like the painting above the mantel at 250 Main, these were not created on rectangular canvases. Instead each canvas is shaped for a 3-D effect, so it looks as if there are ice-fishing shacks, floor cushions, and city fire hydrants suspended on the wall or that you could reach out and touch. The visit refreshes my perspective, and when we return to the outdoors I notice that the edges of Rockland’s buildings

look sharper and especially boxy against the steel-colored sky. A little way up Main Street we’re drawn into a storefront by sunny-bright yellow colors and penguins in the windows. Inside we see a familiar face. Orlando Johnson, who was the suitwearer at 250 Main, is now sporting yellow trousers and a sweater and has opened the Black Hole gallery for open hours. It’s his gallery (a follow-up to an earlier one named Somewhere), and he tells us of his admiration for penguins, describing them as “stoic, great creatures, holding places for each other, huddling to stay warm.” Originally from Cambridge, England,

the artist grew up spending summers in Maine and says he was strongly influenced by the works of Maine’s island-based artists, including Robert Indiana. His own paintings often include animals, and he also creates wearable and functional art, including shirts, scarves, and mugs, with repeating forms of land and sea creatures or with block lettering. I buy one of the artist’s shirt creations with the face of a laughing horse screen-printed across the front. It’s the kind of art that boosts the spirit, I think, when we’re all still wrapped in coats and waiting for spring. February 2018 71

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Opposite: Chef Keiko Suzuki Steinberger in a rear dining room at Suzuki’s Sushi Bar, 419 Main Street, Rockland. This page, from left: Breakfast with the morning sun. Classic beers and the tasty FBOM (a Thai-spiced ground chicken lettuce wrap) at Cafe Miranda, open since 1993, just off Main Street at 15 Oak Street, Rockland.

LOBSTAH LUNCH, DUMPLING DINNER We stop in the Landing Gallery and Dowling Walsh Gallery, and happen on artists hanging works for the Collective Bash, a one-night fundraiser for the Farnsworth Art Museum that’s part dance party, part pop-up art show. Between all of this rambling about for art viewing, we eat. When our snowboarding friend gets to town on our second day, we meet up at 250 Main. He wants to know where we’ve already been to eat on this trip, and I run down the list of highlights so far. The Brass Compass, I

tell him, has thick toast slices heaped with haddock or local crab, lobster in so many dishes I can’t count, and super-friendly staff who keep the hot coffee pouring. At In Good Company, we warmed up with big glasses of wine and shared a cucumber salad with sunflower sprouts and a whole head of roasted garlic with molten cheese—feta, brie, and blue. And we stopped in at Cafe Miranda for appetizers of focaccia bread and an FBOM—fabulous bowl of meat. (It’s actually not meat-heavy, but a lettuce-wrap situation with seasoned ground meat and plenty of crunchy vegetables.) Tonight, we are all eager for Suzuki’s Sushi Bar, with its deep red walls and a handful of seats at the sushi counter. While we haven’t seen crowds many places, all of the tables here are soon full of customers. In a denim apron and a wool scarf tied neatly at her neck, chef Keiko Suzuki Steinberger

is in her zone behind the counter. Once food starts to arrive, I don’t want to put my chopsticks down. We feast on a shared meal of homemade noodles, sushi, and a dish I still think about: pork and scallop dumplings in a miso and soy milk broth with napa cabbage, all suspended over a flame in a paper bowl. It looks dangerously precarious, but apparently the broth protects the paper from igniting. The presentation itself is art. Ruth Woodbury Starr, manager of 250 Main, grew up in Rockland, and earlier she suggested that we get to Time Out Pub for pool tables and the fishing crowd, and maybe karaoke. We head there next. A few guys halt their pool shots for a few seconds when they see us newcomers walk in and head to the bar. It’s definitely a locals’ scene— no singing or dancing this night, but there is some Bon Jovi playing on the sound system. February 2018 73

SOAP AND OWLS Morning comes with sun across the Penobscot Bay and warms our fifth-floor room at 250 Main. I smell the coffee downstairs and fetch a cup before venturing out onto our room’s private deck for a minute or two in the sunshine, navigating the windswept snow at my feet. After breakfast at the hotel, we walk down the street to Trillium Soaps, opening the door to bright smells of citrus and spearmint. In a work apron, Peter DiGirolamo tells us he’ll be pouring batches of soap shortly, and we’re welcome to hang around to see. Meanwhile, I check out the shop’s inventory of wooden furniture, linen bed sheets, hair combs from France, teas, vintage silverware, and blocks and hand-cut bars of more than 20 varieties of Trillium soaps. It’s like culinary cookery, I think, as I read the ingredients and smell bars with ingredients from the garden and kitchen, including poppy seeds, lavender, cinnamon, fennel, lime, and rosemary. Soon Peter’s wife, Nancy, arrives and they stir a thick mixture of olive, coconut, and palm oils, add a swirl of French green clay and the essential oils of lemon and sage, and then pour it like batter into long, rectangular molds to cool and harden before cutting. The couple met in Damariscotta and moved to Rockland, where they began soapmaking in 1992 to build a business together that could involve their two children. A draw, he says, was to be part of “a working-class town that’s a real place.” After the soap factory’s aromatic warmth, it feels crazy cold outside. Temperatures are in the 20s, and it’s windy again when we round up our friend, get in the car, and drive out to Owls Head State Park. Peter says he wants to run on the beach, no matter the weather. The excursion is a quick one—a fast dash up the steps to the Owls Head Light in a howling wind, then down and along the curving beachfront of stones as I look for flat stones to skip. We have the ocean to ourselves, and the trees and rocks stand out in sharp relief. And that’s how I’ll remember this winter-cozy getaway. From the fireplace comforts of our yacht-style hotel, we stepped outside into icy gusts, but that only added to the fun. Fewer people and chillier temperatures cleared our heads for experiencing the art, and made us hungry for the bayside city’s food and flavors. Let Rockland’s wintry winds blow us back in anytime.

From top: Peter and Nancy DiGirolamo pour mixtures of natural oils and botanicals for their handmade Trillium Soaps. Ceramics, silver, and small furniture in the Trillium Soaps shop at 216 Main Street, Rockland. Opposite: Skipping stones at Owls Head State Park, about a five-mile drive from downtown Rockland.

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February 2018 75

Great movies unite us. Discussion. Gatherings. Over 30 breathtaking films. This year’s MJFF is a can’t miss opportunity for Maine communities to celebrate great cinema—together.

Visit MJFF.ORG for times, locations and tickets MJFF-001 Maine Magazine HP r2_1.indd 2

March 10–18, 2018 12/28/17 11:02 AM

NA R R AT I V E STRUCTURE At home with Jane Goodrich, the author of The House at Lobster Cove and the creator of her very own shingle-style marvel on Swans Island

by Katy Kelleher // Photography by Erin Little

Jane Goodrich began building her Swans Island home in the early 1980s when she was just 19 years old. She based the design on historic drawings and blueprints of a shingle-style masterpiece named Kragsyde. The house has a stately fireplace in the “living hall.” Goodrich explains, “In those days, many shingle-style and Queen Anne houses had what was called the living hall, which is essentially a room large enough to live in that also works as an entrance.” The room is covered in carved ash wood paneling.

February 2018 79

Left: Goodrichâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s husband, James Beyor, did many of the intricate carvings found around the house, including these wolf- and blackbirdadorned newels. Above: The ocean-facing side of Kragsyde shows the many dormers, chimneys, and windows that help make it such a distinctive structure. After working on the house for years, Goodrich became inspired to write about the original Kragsydeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s owner, George Nixon Black.

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The house came first. Then, seeping from its sea-spray-weathered walls and dripping from graceful rooflines, came the inklings of an idea, a niggling desire to write. Then came George Nixon Black, striding into Jane Goodrich’s mind, a smartly dressed character of bear-like proportions who was half ghost, half man. The book came last. Ushered in by Black, The House at Lobster Cove is a thoughtful and meticulously researched historical fiction novel from a first-time author, longtime artist, and lifelong creator. The book is now on its third printing, and has been praised by critics and readers alike. But still, the house came first. Goodrich began building her Swans Island home in the early 1980s. She was just 19 years old, and she had just lived through the recession of the ’70s. “It was a time when things were made cheaply, cars were made poorly. It was the era of Formica and linoleum,” she says. “It seemed like everything was devolving, that people were forgetting that you could live as a craftsperson.” But Goodrich hadn’t forgotten. She had dreamed of owning a shingle-style house for years, and among the houses she had seen in books there was one in particular that caught her fancy. Its name was Kragsyde. It was designed by the

architecture firm Peabody and Stearns and built for New England philanthropist George Nixon Black in the 1880s at Manchester-bythe-Sea in Massachusetts. The design drew upon the style of the Victorian era, with a stately curved archway, octagonal towers, long open porches, and many windows tucked under gables that peered out at the ocean like eyes. But when Goodrich began researching Kragsyde, she was shocked to learn that this iconic piece of American architecture had been torn down decades before. Enamored with the style and discouraged by the trends in consumer goods, Goodrich and her husband, Jim Beyor, decided to recreate Kragsyde. The young couple purchased a two-acre piece of land on Swans Island in 1979 and set about creating their dream house. They used pictures and drawings of the original Kragsyde to figure out the layout. For the most part, they used the same materials found in the original—with a few slight upgrades. “One of the only differences between our house and the original is that we used some dimensional lumber,” Goodrich says. “They wouldn’t have had that back then.” (Dimensional lumber is wood that has been cut to standardized width and depth, such as two-by-fours.) Inside, they installed raised oak paneling and oak floors. Goodrich painted on the walls, decorating rooms with arts February 2018 81

and crafts motifs that would have felt familiar to Black (or as she calls him, Nixon). “He would know the house,” she says. (As we talk, I look around the salmon-pink living room, taking in the details: an authentic polar bear rug, a white marble fireplace, a decorative fire screen that shields two iron gargoyles from view, and a wreath of feathers affixed to the wall behind Goodrich.) “I think he might have painted some of the surfaces that we decided to leave as natural wood,” she continues. “And I know exactly what kind of furniture he had: fine, Colonial-era pieces. I’m not so fond of that.” She did furnish her house with antiques (many of which were sourced at the Brimfield Antique Flea Market in Brimfield, Massachusetts), but she favors the organic flourishes and adornment of the Arts and 82

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Crafts movement, which, as Goodrich points out, would have looked right at home in a late-1800s summerhouse like Kragsyde. Through my conversation with Goodrich, I come to realize that the house and the novel are so deeply intertwined that we can’t discuss one without talking about the other. They are both entirely Goodrich’s creations, but her work owes an enormous debt to Black. She describes the process of investigating his life in terms that seem almost mystical. “As you start to see spaces grow, as you build the house, you start to gain new perspectives,” she says. “Suddenly, as you’re building, there are windows. There are apertures to things you haven’t seen before, and you start to think—what did the people

who lived here before think? What did they perceive?” The house, in Goodrich’s telling, opened a door to the past where she found her hero. “Once we were done with the house, which took all my nights and weekends for 20 years, I started to do more research on Nixon,” she remembers. “I realized how interesting he was. For ten years, I kept fearing that I would find something about him that was nasty or cruel, and I never did.” The Black she discovered was a gay man living in an era where coming out wasn’t even a concept. But Goodrich believes that Black’s sexual orientation was an open secret. In his will, Goodrich found further evidence of both his goodness (he gave liberally to his former servants and to charitable causes) and his gayness (he left a large amount to his longtime companion, Charles Brooks Pitman, with whom he lived happily

From left: A Richardsonian arch, named after architect Henry Hobson Richardson, is one of the most distinctive features of Kragsyde. When architect Robert Swain Peabody was designing Black’s house, famed landscaper Frederick Law Olmsted suggested adding the arch to provide a place for carriages to unload. Goodrich’s front yard, looking southeast off the coast of Swans Island.

February 2018 83

Opposite: Goodrich has hundreds of books of nineneeth-century fiction as well as dozens more on American history of that century. “Eight shelves are filled with books on just Boston history,” she says. This page, from left: The teahouse, located on a pond just steps away from the main house, features birch bark wallpaper, cedar beams, and a Japanese lantern. The author at home.

for 34 years). She tracked down Black’s letters and documents, and with the same determination that allowed her to build that grand house, shingle by shingle, brick by brick, Goodrich reconstructed the story of George Nixon Black. While the ink has dried on the novel and Goodrich has, for the most part, put Black’s spirit to rest, the house isn’t finished, because houses never are. Shingle-style homes require constant care. (On the garage, I glimpse newly patched shingles, raw and unweathered.) “In many ways, I feel as though I don’t live in the modern world,” Goodrich says. “Living on an island, you have to be self-sufficient. We repair everything ourselves. If the furnace goes, we fix the furnace. If something leaks, we fix it ourselves.” When she’s not working on the house, she splits her time between Saturn Press, the letterpress company she founded in January 1986 (also located on Swans Island) and writing in her home office. “I know what I want my next book to be about,”

she says. “But it’s still in the research stages.”

“If you’ve built your own space, it’s a little like living inside a giant piece of art that you made.”

While every room in Goodrich’s Kragsyde has its own appeal, I fall a little in love with her office. On the ceiling, she has painted the constellations—a furry great bear, a scaly dragon, a muscular Hercules. They are arranged exactly as they would have appeared on the night of July 11, 1842 (Black’s birthday), if you were viewing them from the North Pole. On her desk, she has piles of books, a vintage green banker’s lamp, and a phrenology skull. Here is where she wrote, by hand, The House at Lobster Cove. “If you’ve built your own space, it’s a little like living inside a giant piece of art that you made,” she says. “Remember when you were little and you would make your own fort? That’s the same feeling.” Goodrich, surrounded by her paintings, her pens, and her words, has created something larger than the sum of its parts: she’s made her own universe, complete with a night’s sky worth of glittering stars.

T H E

K E N N E B U N K S

H O M E M A D E P A S TA S ∏ N E A P O L I TA N P I Z Z A ∏ S U N D AY B R U N C H L U N C H + D I N N E R ∏ O P E N Y E A R R O U N D ∏ VA L E T PA R K I N G P O R T S O F I T A LY. C O M ∏ 4 W E S T E R N AV E K E N N E B U N K , M A I N E 0 4 0 4 3 ∏ 2 0 7 - 2 0 4 - 0 3 6 5

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and why it belongs on your list. Read more at themainemag.com/eat/forage-market

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Our entire team is serious about a lot of things, and where to eat and why are on top of the list. Discover your next favorite dining spot in Old Port and Maine magazines, and on our blog and Instagram. themainemag.com + @eatmaine

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henever my family visited my Jewish grandmother in New York, she would offer an array of smoked fish and spreads to be eaten with bagels. There were several kinds of cream cheese, chopped herring, whitefish salad, and my favorite, salty belly lox, all served with fresh bagels that were never toasted. Rose Foods owner Chad Conley does not have the same kind of food memories as I do, but his wife, Rachel Schlein, can relate. She introduced Conley to Jewish foods when they first visited New York City together. After a subsequent trip to Toronto and a visit to Schmaltz Appetizing, Conley, who also co-owns the insanely popular Palace Diner in Biddeford, felt ready to take on another project: a Jewish restaurant. Six kinds of bagels are offered, including a daily special. Some of the other menu items, such as the soothing and flavorful chicken soup with matzo balls and chopped liver, are made in-house. And the house-made latkes that are only available on weekends are a treat—hot and crisp, served with both applesauce and sour cream. Gravlax, a salmon cured with dill, comes from Ducktrap River of Maine in Belfast.

There are two ways to order: you can choose your own spread, fish, and add-ons from the list for a custom bagel sandwich, or you can order from the list of composed sandwiches. Each sandwich is a beauty, but I’m partial to the Henry VIII with pastrami nova—smoked salmon cured with pastrami spices, such as coriander, paprika, black pepper, and brown sugar. It’s served on fairly mild horseradish cream cheese, with thin slices of red onion and parsley leaves. There’s also a big salami, egg, and cheese bagel sandwich as well as the Harbor Master with fried eggs, smoked cheddar, and kelp. The hefty pastrami sandwich on rye is a popular midday choice. Add a Rose Foods “health salad,” a mix of marinated cabbage and carrots with dill and caraway, another traditional Jewish deli item. Conley has honored his wife’s heritage at Rose Foods, even naming the place for her great-grandmother. For me the whole place feels—and tastes—familiar, right down to the sour pickles. “A lot of people have memories of this kind of thing,” he says. “But you have to appreciate the fresh and new, too.”

LITTLE GIANT

BY KAREN WATTERSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICOLE WOLF

211 Danforth St. | Portland | 207.747.5045 littlegiantmaine.com Little Giant is the second venture for Briana and Andrew Volk, who also own the popular Old Port craft-cocktail bar Portland Hunt and Alpine Club. The Volks purchased the building in Portland’s West End (with partners Ian and Kate Malin), then first opened the Little Giant shop next door with a well-curated selection of gourmet groceries, wine, sandwiches, and baked goods. Chef Rian Wyllie’s menu is broadly European, but the team doesn’t want to pigeonhole itself. There are tacos, one of Wyllie’s specialties: the corn tortillas are made in-house, and the fillings are constantly evolving. The cornmeal-fried oyster is perfect, light, and crisp, served with chipotle tartar sauce and pickled red cabbage. Wyllie is a genius with charcuterie, offering a board of all house-made meats and sausages, including wild boar jagerwurst (German “hunter sausage”) and country pork pâté with dried cranberries and pistachios. Roasted plum mostarda and pickled vegetables are nice complements to the rich meats. The chef does well with vegetables, too, especially in a unique dish of carrots slowroasted on a bed of Tandem coffee beans. The coffee imparts earthiness to the sweet carrots, which are served with a savory pistachio-ginger granola and drizzled with chili honey. We love the

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agnolotti, too, stuffed with wild mushrooms and house-made ricotta with a touch of orange zest and sage. Max Overstrom-Coleman is in charge of the bar program. The Little Giant Martini draws on his experience as a marine scientist, using local filtered seawater. Knife Fight, an eminently drinkable combination of bourbon, lemon, pineapple, and ginger, is one of the most requested cocktails. It’s fun to share the Admiral Stiggins, a rum punch–daiquiri blend topped with a pineapple frond and served in a tall crystal decanter with a spigot. For cooler weather, try the hot buttered rum, brought to the table in a stainless-steel coffee carafe to be poured into Little Giant’s signature mugs. The Volks have a reputation for creativity, style, and quality, and Little Giant checks all those boxes.

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CAPTURE by James Lynch

EVERY DAY WE COMB THROUGH OUR INSTAGRAM FEED TO FIND IMAGES FROM FOLLOWERS DOCUMENTING OUR STATE. WE SHARE A CAPTURE OF THE DAY ON @THEMAINEMAG, AND EACH MONTH IN MAINE MAGAZINE WE HIGHLIGHT ONE OF THOSE PHOTOS.

hen I was 12 years old and had just moved to Maine from New York City, I went out for the first time on a boat that belonged to a friend from school. I remember he told me about a remote island in Casco Bay, Jewell Island, that he had visited with his family. The island had been used as a fort during World War II, but now the island’s only inhabitants were occasional overnight campers, and the caretaker lived on the next island over. I desperately wanted to visit the island, but we couldn’t get ashore without a dinghy. I let go of the idea, but I never completely forgot about it. Two of my friends from out of town, Zac and HB, were coming to visit Maine last September. My other friend, Charlie, and I were discussing where we could take them. The goal was to find a unique spot on the coast without traveling too far from home. We came up with the idea of showing them Jewell Island. Charlie’s father was generous enough to offer to take us out to the island on their boat, but we would have to wade through waist-deep water to get ashore because the boat could only get so close. When the day finally arrived, we packed our stuff onto the boat and made our way to the island. When we arrived, the only thing before us was the Atlantic Ocean, and it was immediately apparent that we had disconnected from civilization. Just as the sun was going down, we set up a fire and went to work on dinner. This trip opened my eyes to how many remote places exist in Maine that I have yet to explore.

James Lynch is a lifestyle and adventure photographer based near Portland whose work is characterized by his love for the outdoors. He first picked up a camera shortly after his family moved to the coast of Maine in 2012. He is currently a junior in high school, and he strives to get out and explore every weekend. You can follow him on Instagram @jamesplynch.

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