Old Port Magazine August 2017

THE EVOLUTION OF THE CITY’S FOOD SCENE

WHERE TO EAT NOW: A RESTAURANT GUIDE TO GREATER PORTLAND

PORTLAND'S

CITY MAGAZINE AUGUST 2017

THE PORTLAND FOOD ISSUE

Won For All

BIG TREE HOSPITALITY TEAM BRINGS PORTLAND ANOTHER JAMES BEARD AWARD

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Presenting four sculptors—European by birth, but American by self-determination— who found their way in a new society, and redefined modern American sculpture.

A NEW AMERICAN SCULPTURE, 1914-1945: Lachaise, Laurent, Nadelman, and Zorach

Through September 8

A New American Sculpture, 1914-1945: Lachaise, Laurent, Nadelman, and Zorach has been organized by the Portland Museum of Art, Maine, and the Amon Carter Museum of American Art. Generously supported by Isabelle and Scott Black.

Corporate Sponsor: Government Support: Foundation Support: Media Sponsors: William Zorach (United States, born Lithuania, 1889–1966), Mother and Child, 1922, mahogany, 31 x 12 x 12 1/2 inches. Portland Museum of Art, Maine. Anonymous loan, 2.2002. © Reproduced with permission of the Zorach Collection, LLC. Photo

by Bruce Schwarz

(207) 775-6148 | Por tlandMuseum.org

A dining experience that will take you far away from the ordinary.

The restaurant at The Danforth • www.tempodulu.restaurant • danforthinn.com

Southeast Asian Cuisine

Because you’ve earned this.

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For the cocktail curious and lovers of elevated street food.

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All

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ME

Pageant Perfect in Portland with Nuance Dental Specialists

Brooke Harris, Miss Maine 2017

is competing for the title of Miss USA. She of course chose Miles Cone, DMD to finalize her stunning look.

Justin Hammond Photography

“2.5 million viewers will be looking at her teeth on national television...

They have to be flawless.”

W

hen Brooke walked into Nuance Dental the first time she was exhausted and worn out. Brooke was working two jobs, one of which involved back-to-back overnight shifts at Biddeford Medical Center as a post-surgical/oncology nurse. She’d been burning the candle at both ends for nearly a month. During our patient interview Brooke mentioned she had a big get together coming up and that she really wanted veneers to fix a few of her crooked and misshaped teeth that had always bothered her. As we wrapped up our consultation, I asked her just as she was leaving “By the way, Brooke, what event are you preparing for?” She replied “The Miss USA Pageant in Vegas next month.” Oh…

Q. What was the final treatment that you performed for Brooke and did you use any special techniques or materials for her case?

Q. Brooke isn’t your only patient in the national spotlight - do you ever get nervous knowing that so many people will be seeing your work?

A. After a long discussion with Brooke, we both made a decision that she would be best treated with minimally invasive laminate veneers.

The manner of preparing teeth for ultra thin veneers isn’t special, per se, but it is quite technique sensitive. The porcelain we used for Brooke’s case is an extremely strong and aesthetic lithium disilicate ceramic. My laboratory technician and I were the first ones in New England to test the product out several years ago before it was released to the public. I feel very fortunate that we had a role in bringing it to market - it was perfect for this case (see photos above).

A. Not at all. Do you want to know what makes me nervous? When I’m on television! One of the dental companies that sponsors me, GC America, decided that Brooke’s case would be great to film so that they could highlight the gorgeous ceramic material we used for this case. There were cameras and microphones and hot lights all over the room - literally floating 3 feet over my head while I was working. I never know where I’m supposed to look or what I’m supposed to say. For me, I just like to focus on the patient and the art of the process…l am just fine letting others have the spotlight.

NUANCE DENTAL SPECIALISTS

Q. Was there any challenge managing the different personalities between you and Brooke during treatment?

A. Brooke is probably my most down to Earth patient. She would text me things like “Dude, I’m running late…I need a coffee”, then she would show up with wet nails, her hair up in buns from the salon downstairs, and lycra running pants so that we could tweak and finish her work prior to running off to interviews and guest appearances.

Her friends would stop by in the middle of treatment and they would take selfies together and joke non-stop.

To see more, check out the video for Brooke’s case at nuancedental.com, by clicking on the page link titled “Making Miss Maine”.

193 Middle Street Suite Level 3, Portland, ME, 04101 207.536.7509 | nuancedental.com | info@nuancedental.com

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AUGUST THE PORTLAND FOOD ISSUE

2017 72 GREATER PORTLAND DINING GUIDE Where to eat now in and around the city

T H I S PAG E :

Lamb chops at Tiqa.

Photography by Greta Rybus.

30

TRIPLE PLAY

Big Tree Hospitality has a winning formula for restaurants.

by Karen Watterson Photography by Myriam Babin

66

CIRCLE OF FRIENDS

Veterans and newcomers reflect on the Portland food scene past and present.

by Susan Axelrod

D E PA RT M E N TS

23 TA K E N OT I C E News, notes, and more

42 ACT I V E L I F E

Annual MS Regatta celebrates sailing and raises money to help Mainers.

48 L O O K

Yo u r g u i d e t o g a l l e r y h o p p i n g

58 P RO F I L E

A n d r e w Ta y l o r, M i k e W i l e y , a n d A r l i n S m i t h o f B i g Tr e e H o s p i t a l i t y

94 Q + A

J a m e s B e a r d Aw a r d w i n n e r s R o b Evans and Sam Hayward

107 GAT H E R

MECAMORPHOSIS 2017 and Portland Stage Supper Club Soiree

112 I N S I D E R P I C KS Notable Portlanders dish on their favorite restaurants.

I N EV E RY I SSU E 17 EDITOR’S NOTE 19 STAFF NOTE 21 TALENT ROSTER 100 ON THE BLOCK

O N T H E COV E R :

B i g Tr e e H o s p i t a l i t y p a r t n e r s , f r o m l e f t : M i k e W i l e y , A n d r e w Ta y l o r, a n d Arlin Smith, pose on the Bangs Island Mussels float in Casco Bay.

30 66

PUBLISHER & CEO | Kevin Thomas ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER & COO | Andrea King EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | Rebecca Falzano MANAGING EDITOR | Susan Axelrod ART DIRECTOR | Kate Seremeth DIRECTOR OF SALES | Jeffrey D’Amico ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGERS |

Karen Bowe, Anna DeLuca, Jessica Goodwin, Ryan Hammond, Peter Heinz, Tom Urban PRODUCTION MANAGER | Joel Kuschke DIRECTOR OF EVENTS & SPONSORSHIPS |

Terri Coakley

ONLINE EDITOR | Shelbi Wassick EDITORIAL ASSISTANT | Brittany Cost OFFICE ADMINISTRATOR | Grace Skerritt COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT MANAGER |

Casey Lovejoy

ART INTERN |

Laura Douglas

SPECIAL PROJECTS | Emily McConnell

THIS IS SO PORTLAND.

COPY EDITOR | Katherine Gaudet PROOFREADER | Skye Adams FOOD EDITOR | Karen Watterson CONTRIBUTORS |

Dr. Lisa Belisle, Katy Kelleher PHOTOGRAPHERS |

Ted Axelrod, Myriam Babin, Liz Caron, Dave Dostie, Peter Frank Edwards, Erin Little, Greta Rybus, Christina Wnek, Nicole Wolf COVER PHOTOGRAPHER | Nicole Wolf PHOTO RETOUCHING | Tripp Harrington CIRCULATION | Sarah Lynn ART COLLECTOR MAINE |

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SPACE TO CREATE AT EAST END LOFTS

PORTLAND'S

CITY MAGAZINE

Chief Executive Officer | Kevin Thomas Chief Operating Officer | Andrea King Chief Financial Officer | Jack Leonardi

JUNE 2017

Dockside Dining SCALES DISHES THE FRESH FLAVORS OF THE SEA

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Old Port is published ten times a year by Maine Media Collective LLC. Editorial and subscription information: phone 207.772.3373 | fax 888.836.6715 75 Market Street | Suite 203 | Portland | Maine | 04101 Opinions expressed in articles or advertisements, unless otherwise noted, do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher, staff, or advisory board. Every effort has been made to ensure that all information presented in this issue is accurate, and neither Old Port nor any of its staff is responsible for omissions or information that has been misrepresented to the magazine. Copyright © 2017, Maine Media Collective LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission, in writing, from the publisher. Printed in the U.S.A. oldport.com

16 OLD PORT

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EDITOR’S NOTE PHOTOGRAPHY BY TED AXELROD

M

ost people who know me also know that earlier in my career, I owned a restaurant. They know because I am deeply proud of that fact, and also proud that 18 years after I sold it, the restaurant is still going strong, bearing the name I gave it—a tribute to its location near a park in the center of a quaint New Jersey town. Although Village Green was busy and popular during my ten years there, nothing I have done professionally has ever been as hard. People look at the restaurant business as glamorous and fun, and while it can certainly be the latter, it’s rarely the former. Long hours, product perishability, equipment maintenance, and dealing with difficult customers are just some of the challenges. And there are far easier ways to make a living. Because for most restaurateurs, that’s what it is: a living, not a road to wealth.

As the old joke goes: “What’s the best way to make a small fortune in the restaurant business?

Start with a large one.”

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That background is why I have so much admiration for restaurateurs and chefs, and why I am so excited about this special Portland Food Issue. The idea was prompted

by Eventide Oyster Co. chefs Mike Wiley and Andrew Taylor winning the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Northeast this spring.

But as extraordinary as that accomplishment is, they and their partner Arlin Smith would agree that it didn’t happen in a vacuum. The three successful restaurants they operate as Big Tree Hospitality have flourished in Portland’s exceptionally rich culinary environment. Not only is the ocean in our backyard, so are farms, orchards, cheese makers, and foragers. The city’s previous James Beard Award winners, Sam Hayward and Rob Evans, were offering “farm-to-table” menus well before the term was in common use.

But the abundance that characterizes Portland’s restaurant community goes beyond ingredients

to the support that restaurateurs and chefs show each other. They eat and drink together, collaborate for special events, and are generous with their knowledge. While our food scene may be on the national map, those who are a part of it share a close-knit culture—one of many qualities that often make our city feel like a small town.

We hope you will use this issue to discover new restaurants and learn more about the ones you already know. And also that you will share our pride in Portland’s latest James Beard Award, which, in addition to great food, celebrates hard work, creativity, and connectedness.

SUSAN AXELROD Managing Editor saxelrod@oldport.com

AUGUST // 2017

17

CREATE BIGGER

BRAND

WE GIVE BACK.

Our mission is to make a substantial and unique commitment to supporting Maine’s nonprofit community both statewide, regionally, and at the town level. We believe that the work Maine’s nonprofit organizations do, individually and collectively, makes our lives better and Maine a better place to live. With limited budgets, Maine’s nonprofits need help boosting awareness of their specific causes and help to raise the funds they need. We have established long-term relationships with over 120 nonprofits and community-based organizations. We give to these organizations by providing, free of charge, services ranging from advertising, graphic design, brand development, marketing advice, online announcements, and social media engagement. We often include nonprofit organizations in our editorial coverage through feature articles and/or recaps of their events. You’ll find the latter in our “There + Then,” “Turnout,” and “Gather” sections. Over the past year, we have made cash and inkind donations and services of more than:

$1,930,463 WE ARE PROUD OF OUR AFFILIATION WITH THE FOLLOWING ORGANIZATIONS:

BRAND DEVELOPMENT ADVERTISING PRINT + WEB DESIGN SEARCH ENGINE MARKETING SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGY MEDIA PLANNING

317 Main Community Music Center | American Diabetes Association | AIA Maine | Alfond Youth Center of Waterville | American Lung Association | Barbara Bush Children’s Hospital | Bicycle Coalition of Maine | Biddeford Ball | Biddeford/Saco Rotary Club | Boothbay Harbor Fest | Boothbay Region Chamber of Commerce | Boothbay Region Land Trust | Boys & Girls Club of Southern Maine | Bowdoin International Music Festival | Camden Garden Club | Camden International Film Festival | Camden Opera House | Camp Sunshine | Camp Susan Curtis | Cape Elizabeth Education Foundation | Cape Elizabeth Land Trust | Casco Bay Islands SwimRun | Castine Arts Association | CEI | Center for Furniture Craftsmanship | Center for Grieving Children | Colby Museum of Art | Cross Insurance Center | Dempsey Challenge | Easter Seals Maine | Elias Cup | Bayside Bowl | Environmental Health Strategy Center | Faily Hope | Farnsworth Art Museum | Fort Williams Park Foundation | Frannie Peabody Center | Friends of Casco Bay | Friends of Windjammer Days | Full Plates Full Potential | Georges River Land Trust | Gulf of Maine Research Institute | Good Shepherd Food Bank | Goodwill of Northern New England | Greater Portland Land Marks | GrowSmart Maine | Harbor House | Immigrant Legal Advocacy Project | Institute for Family Owned Business | Junior Achievement of Maine | Junior League of Portland | Kennebunk Free Library | Kennebunkport Conservation Trust | Kennebunks Tour de Cure | Kittery Block Party | L/A Arts | Life Flight of Maine | Lift360 | Maine Academy of Modern Music | Maine Audubon | Maine Cancer Foundation | Maine Center for Creativity | Maine Children’s Cancer Program | Maine College of Art | Maine Crafts Association | Maine Development Foundation | Maine Discovery Museum | Maine Flower Shower | Maine Interior Design Association | Maine Island Trail Association | Maine Jewish Film Festival | Maine Lobster Festival | Maine Preservation | Maine Restaurant Association | Maine Science Festival | Maine Start Up and Create Week | Maine State Ballet | Make-A-Wish Foundation of Maine | March of Dimes | Mercy/Gary’s House | MEREDA | Mitchell institute | Museums of Old York | MyPlace Teen Center | Natural Resources Council of Maine | New England Craft Brew Summit | North Atlantic Blues Festival | Ogunquit Museum of American Art | Ogunquit Playhouse | Osher Map Library | Passivhaus Maine | Portland Downtown | Portland Museum of Art | Portland Ovations | Portland Symphony Orchestra | Portland Trails | PORTopera | Portland Stage Education Programming | Ronald McDonald House Charities | Royal River Land Trust | SailMaine | Salt Bay Chamberfest | Scarborough Education Foundation | Share Our Strength | sheJAMS | Strive | Talking Art in Maine | TEDxDirigo/Treehouse | Teens to Trails | Travis Mills Foundation | The Strand Theatre | The Telling Room | University of Maine Gardens | United Way of Greater Portland | Viles Arboretum | Vinegar Hill Music Theater | Wayfinder Schools | Wells Reserve at Laudholm | Wendell Gilley Museum | WinterKids | Wolfe’s Neck Farm | Woodlawn Museum | Yarmouth History Center

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Chief Executive Officer | Kevin Thomas Chief Operating Officer | Andrea King Chief Financial Officer | Jack Leonardi Old Port is published ten times each year by Maine Media Collective LLC

It’s about a new direction. thebrandcompany.me 207.772.3373

Editorial and subscription information: phone 207.772.3373 | fax 888.836.6715 75 Market Street | Suite 203 | Portland | Maine | 04101 Opinions expressed in articles or advertisements, unless otherwise noted, do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher, staff, or advisory board.

Every effort has been made to ensure that all information presented in this issue is accurate, and neither Old Port nor any of its staff is responsible for omissions or information that has been misrepresented to the magazine.

Copyright © 2017, Maine Media Collective LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission, in writing, from the publisher. Printed in the U.S.A. oldport.com

18 OLD PORT

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STAFF NOTE PHOTOGRAPHY BY TED AXELROD

W

hen Hugo’s owners Arlin Smith, Andrew Taylor, and Mike Wiley were thinking of opening a new restaurant, they asked themselves, “What is Portland missing?” At the time, the answer was “an oyster bar,” and Eventide Oyster Co. was born. A few years later, when space became available, they posed the same question again.

This time, they noticed a need for house-made noodles with an Asian accent and stepped up to the plate with The Honey Paw. This thoughtful approach by the team, and many others who are opening restaurants in the Portland area, keeps our city growing and

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thriving. There’s always room for a good idea, from coffee and doughnuts to inventive takes on lobster, from ethnic eateries to ice cream.

Portland’s food scene has a contagious energy and vibrancy, with new places to discover almost weekly. The Old Port may be restaurant central, but the scene spreads beyond the peninsula too. The Woodfords area is taking off, with places like Woodford Food & Beverage and Tipo filling a need for neighborhood gathering spots with really great food. And just beyond the city limits, towns like Yarmouth and South Portland offer new and exciting options, as well as perennial favorites. Here at Old Port magazine, we felt it was time to put all

the choices in one place. Hold onto this guide, and next time you’re hungry use it to find what you crave.

We have a delicious embarrassment of riches here in Portland. We who live here are spoiled and those who visit are envious.

KAREN WATTERSON Food Editor kwatterson@thebrandcompany.me AUGUST // 2017

19

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Photo: Nora Hefner

THE PEOPLE BEHIND OLD PORT MAGAZINE

BRITTANY COST

NICOLE WOLF

Nicole is a commercial photographer based in Portland. She has recently returned from Haiti, where she was photographing for the Mainebased public health organization Konbit Santé.

“One of the best things about my job is how vastly different each shoot is for me,” she says.

“This month, photographing my friends from Eventide on the Bangs Island Mussels float was a creative and hilarious adventure!”

Photo: Dave Dostie

After living in Canada for several years, editorial assistant Brittany now lives on Munjoy Hill near two of her favorite restaurants, Blue Spoon and Lolita Vinoteca and Asador. She is spending her summer searching the city’s bars and brunch spots for the perfect outdoor patio.

RYAN HAMMOND

Advertising account manager Ryan is a North Carolina native who fell in love with Maine and never left. In his spare time he can be found bouncing between Portland, Peaks Island, and Chebeague Island enjoying time with friends, and taking care of his two cats. He’s still searching for the best BBQ sandwich in Maine.

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TERRI COAKLEY

The director of events and sponsorships, Terri, along with her daughter Sabrina and their cute little dog, Charlie Girl, recently became East Enders. Terri loves the location; Sabrina loves that she can walk to town and Hilltop Coffee; and Charlie Girl is settling in to her time on the Prom. These three are looking forward to summer and calling Portland home.

AUGUST // 2017

21

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TAKE NOTICE NEWS, NOTES, AND MORE

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UNION BAGEL is opening a s e c o n d re t a i l l o c a t i o n o n Ve r a n d a St re e t . T h e b a g e l delicatessen celebrated its f o u r t h a n n i v e r s a r y i n Ma y.

C a p e El i z a b e t h re s i d e n t s Gi n g e r C o t e a n d Pe n n y Pr i o r h a v e p u r c h a s e d t h e f o r m e r Gr i f f i n C l u b i n Knightville. The pair plan t o re n ov a t e t h e b u i l d i n g into a neighborhood re s t a u r a n t a n d v e n u e c a l l e d BIG BABE’S.

Photos: Erin Little

Tw o l o c a l e n t re p re n e u r s h a v e t e a m e d u p t o o p e n Ya r m o u t h’s f i r s t c r a f t b re w e r y, B R I C K Y A R D H O L L O W B R E W I N G C O . , i n t h e f o r m e r A n t h o n y’s Dr y C l e a n e r s b u i l d i n g o n Ma i n St r e e t .

Fr a n k Gr o n d i n , c o - ow n e r o f H a n d y’s Ma r k e t a n d C a f é i n Ya r m o u t h , a n d Br a d Mo l l , a d e v e l o p e r, p l a n t o i n c l u d e a f u l l k i t c h e n a n d re s t a u r a n t , a s w e l l a s o u t d o o r s e a t i n g . Br i c k y a rd Ho l l ow Bre w i n g C o. o p e n s t h i s f a l l .

Creator of the popular bait bags, designer ALAINA MARIE H A R R I S h a s p a r t n e re d w i t h K e d s t o re l e a s e a n e w, l i m i t e d e d i t i o n s n e a k e r. H a r r i s h a s d e s i g n e d t w o n a u t i c a l - t h e m e d “m e s h w a v e” s n e a k e r s i n c o r a l a n d a q u a p r i n t s f o r K e d s’s L a d i e s f o r Ladies Collection, a series that highlights female makers.

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AUGUST // 2017

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DINE

W H E R E T O E AT N O W

BY KAREN WATTERSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY MYRIAM BABIN

“THE BEAUTY OF HUGO’S IS THAT IT’S ALWAYS EVOLVING.” –ARLIN SMITH

Opposite page: Hugo’s offers an intimate dining experience, with top-notch service and an innovative, seasonal menu. This page, from left: At The Honey Paw, crudo dishes often appear as specials. A Grey Lady cocktail at The Honey Paw.

I

f Big Tree Hospitality has a lucky number, it must be three. The trio of partners, Arlin Smith, Andrew Taylor, and Mike Wiley, owns three restaurants. The chefs, Taylor and Wiley, have been nominated three times for the James Beard Award, the food industry’s highest honor. In May, they brought home that prestigious award in the category of Best Chef: Northeast. They were recognized for their work at Eventide Oyster Co., up against some heavy-hitters from the Boston area and

Providence (the category also includes New York state, Connecticut, New Hampshire, and Vermont). Best Chef nominees, according to the James Beard Foundation, have worked as chefs for at least five years and “have set new or consistent standards of excellence in their respective regions.”

Onstage to accept the honor, Taylor thanked Smith, saying, “This award is 33 percent yours.” In addition to Eventide, the trio also co-owns Hugo’s and The Honey Paw—all in a row on Middle Street. The restaurants and

the team are a trifecta of talent, thoughtful planning, and hard work. Getting Taylor, Wiley, and Smith together for an interview in the wake of their win, announced at a gala in Chicago, was a rare and sometimes rollicking occasion.

The trio came together several years ago at Hugo’s, when the restaurant was owned by another James Beard Award winner, chef Rob Evans. Evans had established Hugo’s reputation by combining regional AUGUST // 2017

31

“EVENTIDE WAS A FIRE-BREATHING DRAGON RIGHT OUT OF THE GATE.” –MIKE WILEY

This page: Dining on this stretch of Middle Street is a celebration of great food and good times, thanks to Big Tree Hospitality.

Opposite page: The creative seafood dishes at Eventide Oyster Co. earned its chefs a 2017 James Beard Award.

32 OLD PORT

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and seasonal ingredients with innovative techniques not previously seen in this area.

The restaurant became synonymous with a certain style of cooking—experimental, luxurious, groundbreaking. Both Taylor and Wiley had gone to college in Maine, and were looking for a reason to return. Smith

arrived first, followed by Taylor, who came from Boston, where he had been working for acclaimed chef Ken Oringer, himself a James Beard Award winner. And Wiley, who had been in Colorado, answered a Craigslist ad seeking a fish cook. The three watched how Evans and his wife, Nancy Pugh, successfully handled two restaurants—the more refined Hugo’s and the immensely popular casual eatery across the street, Duckfat. “Rob would use the staff at Duckfat sort of as a farm team for Hugo’s,” Taylor explains. “They would get trained there, with the promise of being brought over to work at Hugo’s, if all went well. That model made a whole lot of sense

DINE

to us.” Owning two restaurants also gave them more efficient and economical access to food and supplies. Adds Wiley, “Having two different price points captures a bigger swath of the dining public.”

Eventually Evans decided to focus solely on Duckfat and approached Taylor about buying Hugo’s. “I didn’t want to own that business at that time,” Taylor says.

“Hugo’s is an amazing restaurant that does incredible food, but when it’s slow in the winter, it’s really slow. That’s why you need a second restaurant, to keep things going.” Then three things happened that

changed his mind. Taylor’s wife, Rachel, was expecting their first child. “I thought, ‘I can’t be just a cook now. I have to really figure things out,’” he says. Then the space next door that had been occupied by Rabelais bookstore became available. “I came in the next day,” Taylor continues, “and talked to Mike and Arlin. It was time to think seriously about buying Hugo’s and opening another restaurant next door.” But it was the day the three of them were asked to host potential buyers from New York that their mission became clear. “There was no way we were going to let Hugo’s be sold to New Yorkers. We realized we wanted to see Hugo’s continue, and these buyers would have changed that,” says Smith. Like pieces in a kaleidoscope, it all started to come into focus for the three of them, and the project moved forward quickly. Smith credits Taylor with seeing the big picture.

“Andrew has an incredible brain for seeing things in a different light than most. He told us his thoughts and how the partnership would work, and the idea for the shared kitchen.” By March of 2012, Hugo’s belonged to Taylor, Wiley, and Smith. They formed a management group, Big Tree Hospitality.

“Initially, nothing changed. We were pretty much running the place anyway,” says Wiley.

But things did change in the minds of some diners, and the team had to figure out how to navigate that. “We knew we might lose some customers based on the fact that Rob was no longer here,” he says. “I felt a little terrified taking over this place that has such an incredible reputation, but pretty much like everything else, you just keep your head down and work hard.” Taylor adds, “I knew we could usher Hugo’s into the next generation.”

AUGUST // 2017

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DINE

that food,” Taylor adds. “But we knew we needed to nail down a good lobster roll. We didn’t want to do a traditional version.” A steamed pork bun had been on the menu at Hugo’s and was a starting point for what would become Eventide’s signature item. “We started playing around with the dough, but we knew if we were going to use it, it would have to be split-top, a nod to traditional New England style. There was a brown butter period at Hugo’s, too,” he says.

By putting those two elements together, a superstar was born. The rest of the menu changes nearly every day, but the wildly popular lobster roll remains a constant.

In fact, when asked why the team won the James Beard Award for Eventide and not Hugo’s, Wiley’s answer was simple: the brown-butter lobster roll.

And they have, with a 2013 renovation that better reflects their personalities and goals.

“We wanted to breathe a little more life into the dining room,” Wiley says. “And since Andrew and I are both cooks, we wanted to make the kitchen really nice and much bigger.” Now the curved bar wraps around the open kitchen, where the talents of the staff are on display. It’s fascinating and fun to watch the action, as dishes are created and arranged and cooks calmly execute orders. “We thought it would be better if guests could see the chefs and for the crew to learn to talk with diners while they work,” says Wiley. “The beauty of Hugo’s is that it’s always evolving,” adds Smith.

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Next door, Eventide Oyster Co. was in the process of establishing a reputation and earning a following. “It was a fire-breathing dragon right out of the gate,” says Wiley.

The team had done research in Boston and New York, and were surprised to find little in the way of creativity at oyster bars. They realized there was an opportunity to provide a unique and exceptional experience. “It’s what Portland was missing,” says Smith.

Over Belgian beers and wings at the Great Lost Bear, the three met to strategize. “That is where we decided how the oysters would be presented and the idea for ices to go with them,” Smith says. “The first two courses on the tasting menu at Hugo’s have almost always been crudo, so we knew how to do

But you don’t win a Best Chef James Beard Award on the strength of your lobster roll alone, however phenomenal it might be.

The entire Eventide menu calls out for exploration. The lobster stew with green curry and coconut is a sweet and savory revelation with a fathomless depth of flavor.

A crunchy battered hake with housemade tartar sauce may not sound all that exciting, but it’s hot, crisp, and addictive. Crudo and ceviche dishes celebrate Maine’s best resource, simply prepared to let the fresh seafood shine. And the oysters, of course: Displayed in an enormous, ice-filled granite basin atop the bar, they are mostly local.

Cocktails are carefully considered as an extension of the food. The savory celery gimlet complements seafood beautifully, and the ET Cooler refreshes the palate with gin, cucumber, sake, and lemon soda.

An extensive list of sparkling wines also enhances the Eventide experience.

What else could a massively successful venture like Eventide need? More kitchen space. “We searched all over the peninsula for a commissary,” Smith explains. “But nothing felt right. Then we found out the corner space next to Eventide was becoming available.” Wiley adds, “We weren’t out to have a third restaurant, but with the available space, we stepped up to the plate.

Again, we asked ourselves, ‘What does Portland not have?’” This serendipitous opportunity was the birth of The Honey Paw, a hip and casual Asian noodle joint.

“WHEN THE BOSTON LOCATION OPENS, WE COULD GO THROUGH AS MANY AS 6,000 LOBSTERS EACH WEEK.” –ANDREW TAYLOR

Opposite page: Bartender Kevin Nelson mixes up a cocktail at The Honey Paw. Drinks at all three restaurants reflect ingredients found on each menu. This page, from left: Outdoor tables are coveted at Eventide and The Honey Paw. Plates ready to be served at Hugo’s.

is definitely the ability to move people around,” says Wiley.

“There was already an Asian sensibility to our food. And Mike was nerding out with all kinds of noodle ideas,” says Smith. “It’s a rare thing for a restaurant to make all their own noodles,” Wiley says. “But we do it all, and we’re proud of our technique.”

With the establishment of The Honey Paw, Big Tree Hospitality could build a kitchen that stretched the length of all three restaurants, servicing each one separately, but with easy crossover of basic ingredients, ideas, and more. The group might receive a whole tuna, prompting one of the chefs to call out for tuna on every menu. “It’s a wonderful experience for young cooks who are excited to break down a huge fish,” says Taylor. There’s crossover among the kitchen staff as well, an advantage to all. “When someone takes a job at one of our restaurants, they’re really taking a job at all three, with 14 different positions to learn from,” he explains. “Having the three restaurants together creates a sense of loyalty among cooks, and creates opportunities for them to learn different roles. It might be the best thing about having all three restaurants together.” As an example, Taylor’s cousin, Lars Taylor, has come up through the system, working at every station possible and earning himself the chef de cuisine position at The Honey Paw. “The biggest benefit to the one kitchen

This month, Eventide Oyster Co. will expand beyond Maine’s borders. Big Tree Hospitality is opening a fast-casual, counter-service version of the restaurant just a block from Fenway Park. Bostonians who have visited Portland are looking forward to indulging in all of Eventide’s greatest hits, including the brown-butter lobster roll. It’ll be a more streamlined, but no less delicious, model, and one that the group hopes to replicate further, if it works as well as they expect. In order to expand the brand, a true commissary with production facilities became a necessity. They found their space not in Portland, but in Biddeford at the renovated Pepperell Mill complex. “It was important to us to have a place with some aesthetic beauty, that the people who work there could be proud of,” Taylor says. The commissary acts as a central distribution location, a test kitchen, and a lobster processer. “When the Boston location opens, we could go through as many as six thousand lobsters each week,” he continues.

At the facility, they’re steamed and the meat is picked. The Asian-style buns are also produced there, making this spot command central for the essentials of the beloved lobster roll.

When Taylor and Wiley accepted the James Beard Award, the first thing they did was thank their staff. There are more

than 100 employees, and everyone plays a vital role in maintaining the quality and reputation Big Tree Hospitality has worked hard for. “The award was gratifying for all of us,” Taylor says. “I’ve said it before and I’ll say it a million times; we have the best staff. Everyone has a part in this.” Smith continues, “What happened with Eventide was totally unexpected. We wanted to do a little oyster bar, but every aspect of it was carefully considered, from the color on the wall to the material of the bar, the look of the menu, and the beverage program. All these things really matter. Nothing was an afterthought.” That diligence is evident, has been well documented, and is now being rewarded. It’s fascinating istening to the trio describe their evolution and hopes for their future. The James Beard Award affirms what we in Portland already knew. Three is a lucky number.

Hugo’s 88 Middle St. | Portland 207.774.8538 hugos.net Eventide Oyster Co. 86 Middle St. | Portland 207.774.8538 eventideoysterco.com The Honey Paw 78 Middle St. | Portland 207.774.8538 thehoneypaw.com AUGUST // 2017

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The annual MS Regatta takes sailors around Casco Bay. The course was designed by local sailing legend Merle Hallett, founder of Handy Boat and co-founder of the regatta. He considers the waters of Casco Bay to be some of the best sailing grounds on Earth.

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ACTIVE LIFE HOW PORTLAND KEEPS MOVING

BY KATY KELLEHER PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIN LITTLE

O

n the morning of August 20, 2016, a group of sailors about to compete in the 35th annual MS Regatta on Casco Bay gathered for a skippers’ meeting—a standard practice before any sailing race to go over the course and the rules. “We were given bags that had been decorated by someone suffering from MS,” recalls Lauryn Smith, skipper of the 25-foot Catalina Polaris.

Inside the bag, Smith found a letter from a fellow Mainer, which she brought to her crew.

It was a note from someone who suffers from MS, and it described how the money raised by the regatta would benefit people with her condition. Instead of beginning her day talking about strategy or weather, “we talked about this person with MS,” Smith says. “We talked about the people the race would benefit. We knew we were going to do pretty badly, but for us, it wasn’t about racing. It was about research. It was about people.”

Smith didn’t win that day. In fact, her boat was the slowest one in the race. But her all-female crew of beginners did receive another award: Most Spirited. “We called ourselves the ‘Flying Clams,’” she laughs. “We had a blast. It was an incredible day.”

Sailboats of all sizes compete in the annual regatta, which is part of the MS Harborfest,

a three-day series of nautical events that takes place on the Portland waterfront. Festivities kick off on Friday evening with a silent auction and end with a lobster boat race and a tugboat race on Sunday afternoon. The cornerstone of the weekend is the Saturday MS Regatta in Portland Harbor.

The 12-mile course draws in big boats and small ones. There are seasoned sailors like Connecticut resident Arthur “Kitt” Watson, owner and captain of the 80-foot ketch Too Elusive, whose company, Watson Enterprises, is also the major sponsor of the event; and there are recent converts, like Smith, who lives in Portland. People come from Massachusetts, Florida, and beyond to raise their sails for the cause. “I’ve been in the MS Regatta for over 17 years now, and it’s a great charity that takes place in a very fun place to sail,” says Watson.

“I have a big enough boat that I can take as many people as I want onto the race, which gives people who have never been on a sailboat an opportunity to experience a race from the water.” For Watson, the charitable aspect is the most important part of the MS Regatta, but sharing his passion for sailing comes in a close second. “I always bring beginners out with me.

I love to teach them. And I love watching the smiles people get when the boat heels over—it thrills me to share that moment with them.”

Last year, I had the privilege of observing the race from the deck of Too Elusive. Also on board were Maine sailing legend Merle Hallett and his wife, Barbara. While Barbara handled navigation, Merle stood alongside Watson, his longtime friend, at the helm of the boat, watching as crisp white sails dipped in and out of sight in the thick afternoon fog. While on shore the August day had felt oppressively hot, the temperature on board was brisk, chilled by the vast waters of the Atlantic and the breeze that swirled through the bay, shifting directions swiftly and carrying droplets of water from the surf. The big boat cut neatly through the waves, and once the fog lifted, I could see the bulk of Fort Gorges from my perch on the deck.

“This course was designed to be really fun for sailors,” Hallett says. “It’s not a straight shot.”

Sometimes, he tells me, sailors like to go out and run the racecourse on their own, just for fun. “The turns are what make it enjoyable, and the islands are what make Casco Bay so beautiful,” he says.

Although he wasn’t captaining his own vessel, the race was still a win for Hallett, who, along with fellow sailor Dan Wellehan, came up with the idea for this charitable regatta back in 1982.

The men and a group of friends had an open weekend in August, a passion for sailing, and an interest in giving back to their community.

AUGUST // 2017

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ACTIVE LIFE

But when Wellehan—former owner of the shoe company Sebago, Inc.—suggested that the race benefit a disease called multiple sclerosis, Hallett looked at him blankly.

“A whole bunch of us said, ‘What the heck is that?’” he recalls. “And I said, ‘Look here, if nobody knows what it is, than that’s clearly the one we should do.’ And that’s just what we did.” The first year, the race started with 24 boats. Before Hallett retired in 2008 from his Falmouth-based business, Handy Boat, 44 OLD PORT

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they were up to around 140 participating boats. Over the years, the MS Harborfest Weekend has raised over $3 million for the National Multiple Sclerosis Society. These funds help propel cutting-edge medical research and provide services to the more than 3,000 Mainers living with the condition.

“There’s a really strong sailing community in Maine, and they’re all very supportive of the regatta,” says Barbara Hallett. While there is an element of competition—“There are always

competitive guys who really want to win,” adds her husband—most people are happy to see their fellow sailors do well. “Any time I have questions about sailing, I can always turn to someone locally—people in Maine want to help each other learn,” says Smith.

When it comes to racing, Smith has learned the importance of starting out strong. “Our only objective in the regatta was to have a really strong start, and to get across the line quickly,” she says. In order to achieve this “micro-goal,”

Opposite page, clockwise from left: The crew of the Too Elusive hauls up the mainsail. Anchor chain on the Too Elusive. Merle Hallett checks out the competition. This page, from top left: Sailboats of all sizes compete in the MS Regatta. Boats tack back and forth to prepare for the start. Barbara Hallett, l e f t , a n d C l a i r e Wa t s o n , d a u g h t e r o f o w n e r a n d c a p t a i n K i t t Wa t s o n , a t t h e n a v i g a t i o n s t a t i o n o n board the Too Elusive.

“THIS COURSE WAS DESIGNED TO BE REALLY FUN FOR SAILORS.” – MERLE HALLETT

as Smith puts it, she arrived early to practice.

Before the race, she sailed back and forth parallel to the starting line, timing each run.

Using lobster buoys as her markers, she figured out where she needed to be five minutes before the starter horn, where she needed to be three minutes before the horn, and so on. She paid careful attention to the weather, which can change quickly on Casco Bay. As her crewmates called out the time, Smith focused on managing the boat’s speed. “It was all about controlling the trim of the sails. At ten seconds, our sails

were trimmed and we were going as fast as we could. We timed it perfectly so we were crossing the line right as the horn sounded.” She adds, “No one expected our boat full of girls to have a good start, and I think they underestimated us.”

Watson, like Smith, recognizes the value of setting simple intentions and following through on seemingly small goals. He has taught many children to sail (including his own) and one of his favorite things to do is step back from the helm and ask a student sailor to navigate

into the harbor. “When you can bring a boat back to harbor on your own, there is such a confidence in that,” he says. “In today’s world, it’s important to get away from tablets and screens and focus on something bigger.” Sailing, he says, teaches values like personal pride, safety, and integrity. “But self-confidence, that’s the main thing,” he adds. “When you have confidence, you can thrive.”

AUGUST // 2017

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Claudette Gamache, Breaking Through 2, pastel

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03 JILL HOY Portland Art Gallery | August 3–31 artcollectormaine.com 04 THE LOVED ONES: SMITH GALTNEY & MATTHEW PAPA Speedwell Projects | July 1–September 1 speedwellprojects.com

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P RO F I L E

THE PEOPLE WHO MAKE PORTLAND

BY DR. LISA BELISLE PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICOLE WOLF

Arlin Smith: HOSPITALITY AND HELPING THE HUNGRY

“N

utrition is something that we, as a society, overlook,” says Arlin Smith, co-owner and general manager of Big Tree Hospitality. “The fact that there is childhood hunger out there is crazy to me.” The co-owner and general manager of Eventide Oyster Co., Hugo’s, and The Honey Paw restaurants on Middle Street in Portland, Smith is active locally and nationally with organizations such as Cultivating Community and Share Our Strength. “I feel like it’s my responsibility to keep giving back,” he says.

Smith first developed an interest in hunger relief as a student at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, New York.

“I worked with some chefs that were really passionate about giving back, and I saw the benefits of that,” he says. Originally from Buffalo, New York, Smith was the first one in his family to go to college. “I did everything I could to get by as an honor student, as close as possible, but really I did not like academics that much,” he says, ducking his head shyly. Smith did enjoy assisting his father, a plumber. “I was more hands-on, more vocational,” he admits.

Growing up, he enjoyed football, wrestling, and swimming, and began working in kitchens when he was 15. He found satisfaction in this creative and social space. “Pretty early on I knew I wanted to be in the culinary world,” says Smith.

Although he trained as a chef, Smith prefers to stay out of the kitchen. “I don’t do it professionally because I’m meant for hunting polar bears; I don’t like the heat,” he jokes.

“Being out front allows me to take care of guests, which is something I really enjoy.”

After graduating from the CIA in 2005, Smith furthered his education in hospitality by working in front-of-the house management at several well-regarded Hudson Valley restaurants.

In the winter of 2009, Smith was living in Rhinebeck, New York, when he and his thengirlfriend decided to make a trip to Portland, prompted by some friends. “They sort of grabbed me by the neck and said, ‘Please go to Portland. That’s your city. Everything about it,” he says. Booking a room at the Regency Hotel and Spa on Milk Street, Smith and his girlfriend learned that Hugo’s chef and owner Rob Evans had been nominated for a James Beard Award, and that the restaurant was offering a multicourse chef ’s tasting menu for $120—a bargain compared to New York prices.

“We didn’t realize how big of a deal it was for them to be doing it,” says Smith. “It was a very mom-and-pop joint.”

“ T H E FA C T T H AT T H E R E I S CHILDHOOD HUNGER OUT THERE IS CRAZY TO ME.” –ARLIN SMITH

This meal convinced Smith that he needed to be a part of the Portland food scene. “I was eating things that I had never experienced before. I could not believe that this city was supporting something like that.” A month later, he and his girlfriend moved to Portland.

Soon after, Smith went to the Congress Street restaurant Local 188 and had a conversation with owner Jay Villani. “I noticed he had a little

bit of an accent, and I called it out,” says Smith.

“He was from Staten Island—that’s where my family’s from. We hit it off, and the next day I had a job.”

In April 2009, Evans won the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Northeast and not long afterwards, Smith went to work for him. “They never had a front-of-the-house manager,” says Smith. “It was always his wife, Nancy. She’s a rock star.” Smith transitioned into this management role, and spent three years working side-by-side with Evans, before purchasing the restaurant in March 2012, along with his partners, Andrew Taylor and Mike Wiley. They opened Eventide Oyster Co. next door two months later; the Honey Paw followed in 2015.

Although being a restaurateur is more than a full-time job, Smith still finds time to relax. He frequently visits his daughter, Stellar, who lives in New York. When in New England, he likes to hike in the White Mountains, escape for a quick trip to Wolfe’s Neck Woods State Park in Freeport, or play pool at Old Port Tavern. He is particularly fond of Scarborough Beach. “I was there two days every single week for the first three summers I was here,” he says.

Smith still likes to play with food. “Being able to cook for friends is a lot more fun for me than being on the line,” says Smith. “I’m always doing steaks and pork chops, things that are not too labor intensive, but have a quick satisfaction.” He also remains dedicated to nourishing those who need it most by using his culinary skills at fundraising events.

For Smith, offering hospitality—whether in his restaurants, at home, or in the name of hunger relief—is a gift that keeps on giving. “It’s connected me to a lot of great people,” he says, “And it’s very rewarding.”

AUGUST // 2017

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PROFILE

Andrew Taylor: FISHING, FATHERHOOD, AND BEING AN AWARD-WINNING CHEF

C

hef Andrew Taylor may be more familiar to his colleagues on the national food scene than he is to people in the suburban Maine town in which he lives. “I was a ghost in Cumberland for the first four or five years I lived there,” says Taylor. “I was gone early, came back in the middle of the night. My wife’s friends joked, ‘Do you really have a husband? I see pictures, but does this guy really exist?’” Taylor has been busy: the father of three boys under the age of five, he is the winner of a 2017 James Beard Award and a partner in Big Tree Hospitality, which owns three restaurants in Portland (plus one in the works in Boston).

Taylor grew up in Newton, Massachusetts. He had an early love of the outdoors and locally sourced delicacies—especially those gleaned from a nearby lake. “My four best friends and I used to disappear from our houses and meet at the lake and fish virtually every day, oftentimes before sunrise,” says Taylor. During the summer, he visited his grandparents’ house on Cape Cod. “If there was a genesis of my culinary career it would probably be there,” he says. “I spent most of my time fishing and digging clams and catching crabs and stuff like that.”

After graduating from Buckingham Browne and Nichols School in Cambridge, Massachusetts, Taylor attended Bates College in Lewiston. Like many family members before him (including his father), he majored in economics. Also like many family members before him (again, including his father), Taylor considered becoming an attorney. He was traveling back from his grandfather’s funeral when he mentioned this possibility to his dad.

“He shook his head and said, ‘No, don’t do that. I don’t think you’ll like that career,’” says Taylor. “He knew that I was restless in nature, and wouldn’t enjoy sitting behind a desk. I’ve thanked him many times for steering me away from it—even if he partially denies it still.”

Taylor’s father suggested that he pursue a career that enabled him to work with his hands. “I

think he probably had in mind orthopedic surgery or sports medicine,” says Taylor.

Watching his high school and college friends enter the financial and legal professions, Taylor had previously felt an expectation to do the same. His father’s words gave him permission to be different. “It was reassuring to hear that I could do something that I enjoyed.”

After graduating from Bates in 2003, Taylor and his future wife, Rachel, spent several months driving across the country before moving to Seattle, Washington. “We had no jobs, no place to stay, and no friends out there, but we made it work pretty quickly,” says Taylor. He enrolled in culinary classes and picked up a job as a prep cook. In his spare time, he learned what he could from chef Thierry Rautureau, 1998 winner of the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Northwest.

“I walked in the back door of the best French restaurant in town and said, ‘I’m going to spend whatever free hours I have here,’” says Taylor.

“I did everything there from peeling shallots

“ I ’ V E A LWAY S BEEN ONE TO PILE IT ON, A N D TA K E O N AS MUCH AS I P O S S I B LY C A N . ” – A N D R E W TAY L O R

and garlic to breaking down Dungeness crab.”

Returning to Boston, Taylor worked at Clio, under the 2001 James Beard Award winner for Best Chef: Northeast, Ken Oringer. “He was an incredible example of how to run restaurants

and how to expand responsibly,” says Taylor.

“We keep in touch to this day.” In 2009, Taylor moved to Portland to become the sous chef at Hugo’s restaurant, under (yet another) James Beard Award-winning chef, Rob Evans.

While at Hugo’s, Taylor met Arlin Smith and Mike Wiley, both of whom would go on to purchase that restaurant with him in 2012.

That same year, Taylor, Smith, and Wiley opened Eventide Oyster Co. next to Hugo’s on Middle Street. Two weeks later, Taylor’s first son, Lincoln, was born. A third restaurant— The Honey Paw—and two more children would follow.

“There have been several times when I’ve tried to persuade Mike and Arlin to open another restaurant or expand, and they’ll say, “I don’t know. Not right now,” says Taylor. “Then I’ll say, ‘Rachel’s pregnant. We’re having another kid. We need another restaurant.’” He grins.

“I’ve always been one to pile it on, and take on as much as I possibly can.” Taylor gives much credit to his wife, who is a graphic designer. “Rachel’s just been unbelievable in understanding what it takes to run a growing and expanding business.”

Taylor, who won his own James Beard Award for Best Chef: Northeast this year, has not strayed far from his outdoor-oriented boyhood self. He continues to enjoy hiking and fishing, as well as foraging for wild foods: ramps and morels in the spring, chanterelles and black trumpets in the summer. In spare moments, he explores the islands of Casco Bay, looking for sea lettuce, kelp, and laver.

Taylor has evolved as a chef, and these days, he is no longer a ghost in his adopted hometown.

“I just did a speech at the Cumberland Elks club, and it was great to meet some people in the community,” says Taylor. His oldest son enters kindergarten in the fall. “I look forward to that. I hope to be coaching his Little League team, and really being a part of that moving forward.”

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62 OLD PORT

oldport.com

PROFILE

Mike Wiley: AN ACADEMIC’S ADVENTURES IN THE KITCHEN

S

affron bucatini; peekytoe crab chawanmushi; fried Heiwa tofu: taken from the menus of Portland’s (arguably) best-known trio of restaurants, these are the syllables around which Big Tree Hospitality chef and co-owner Mike Wiley now fashions his days. “I have always loved words,” says Wiley. Born in Portland, Wiley graduated from Colby College in Waterville with a bachelor’s degree in creative writing and religious studies. He would go on to complete a master’s degree before turning his attention to the culinary pursuits that would eventually earn him a James Beard Award for his efforts at Eventide Oyster Co., one of three Portland restaurants he owns with Andrew Taylor and Arlin Smith.

his father recommended that he read the book It. “Honest to God, for three or four years— maybe even five years—I would run past storm grates and sewer drains. And flush the toilet and sprint out of the bathroom. It absolutely ruined me for Stephen King.”

“Reading is big in our family,” says Wiley.

Growing up, his parents would frequently discuss books with Wiley and his brother at the dinner table, and make specific recommendations. His father, a longtime anesthesiologist at Dartmouth-Hitchcock Medical Center in Lebanon, New Hampshire, suggested titles like Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. “He went to med school out in California in the 70s and got really into transcendental meditation,” says Wiley. With his characteristically dry sense of humor, Wiley jokes, “He ruined lots of cocktail parties.” Wiley’s mother, a former intensive care nurse, changed careers when Wiley was in elementary school. After finishing a doctorate in English, she became a professor at Colby Sawyer College in New London, New Hampshire. “I had it from all angles,” says Wiley.

After graduation, Wiley moved to Colorado at the suggestion of a girlfriend, who found them employment at Elk Creek Ranch in Meeker.

“I was hired as a bartender, and then quickly they said, ‘You’re not any good at this at all.

We thought that anybody could do this, but

Wiley has fond memories of his early years in Hanover. “It’s a really wonderful place to grow up,” he says. “Right on the banks of the mighty Connecticut River, with its amazing rope swings.” Wiley skied a lot as a kid, and went mountain biking. He also continued reading: Michael Crichton’s Jurassic Park and Orson Scott Card’s Ender’s Game were favorites.

He was, briefly, a fan of Stephen King. Then

While at Colby College, Wiley participated in a study abroad program in Nepal. In addition to learning the Nepali language, he studied the yak herding culture of the Solo Khumbu Valley.

“Nepal is an incredibly beautiful country; everybody I met was just very warm,” he says.

“And I got a great sweater out of it, that [my business partner] Andrew Taylor is fond of making fun of—it’s made out of yak fur and it cost two dollars and fifty cents.”

“ I A LWAY S LOVED MAINE AND I KNEW I WA N T E D T O COME BACK.” –MIKE WILEY

it turns out you’re the exception to the rule.’”

Fortunately, a place opened up in the kitchen.

“It was great because in my first cooking job I got to work with truffles, and really incredible beef and local vegetables,” says Wiley.

After five years of being a “skiing and climbing bum,” which he financed through working as a

chef, Wiley decided to return to the academic life. He opted for a master’s degree in rhetoric at the University of Colorado at Boulder. While eating with his parents one night at a local restaurant, Wiley had a revelation that would change the course of his future. “I was looking at the cooks and I thought, ‘I miss doing that.

Those guys are really lucky. I miss being in a kitchen.’”

Rather than apply for a PhD, Wiley returned to the East Coast in 2010. “I’ve always been kind of a Yankee at heart,” says Wiley. “All my ski buddies were guys from Vermont, guys from New Hampshire.” Fortuitously, James Beard-award-winning chef Rob Evans had recently placed an ad on Craigslist. “I wrote a really pompous cover letter, talking about how I longed to return to my natal state and wear flannel proudly,” says Wiley.

Despite the letter, Evans hired him at Hugo’s, where he began working with his future partners, Arlin Smith and Andrew Taylor.

In March 2012, the trio purchased Hugo’s, opening sister restaurant Eventide Oyster Co. later that same year. They founded The Honey Paw in 2015. After two previous nominations, Taylor and Wiley won the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Northeast in May. Wiley now lives in Portland with his fiancée, Abby Farnham, a food access project coordinator with the Maine Farmland Trust.

They will be married next June. His adventures in academia seem to have fostered not only a fondness for literature, but also a willingness to explore unknown terrain—a necessity as he continues to grow his career. But Wiley is happy to have found a familiar base camp.

“I was born in Portland. I went to college in Maine. My parents used to bring us up here when we were kids. I always loved Maine, and I knew I wanted to come back.”

Hear more from the owners of Big Tree Hospitality on Love Maine Radio with Dr. Lisa Belisle. lovemaineradio.com

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Great food for your catered affair Serving classic, creative and delicious food throughout Massachusetts, New Hampshire & Maine.

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15 Chestnut Street Portland, Maine | 207.828.4422

restaurantgrace.com

CIRCLE of Friends

Veterans and newcomers reflect on the Portland restaurant scene past and present.

BY SUSAN AXELROD

Opposite page: Fish, fiddleheads, and fingerling potatoes at Local 188. Photography by Nicole Wolf.

This page, from left: Jay Villani, right, and former chef de cuisine Christina Seeley at Local 188, one of Villani’s three Portland restaurants. Photography by Nicole Wolf. David Turin in front of his two eponymous restaurants in Monument Square. Photography by Myriam Babin.

I

n late July 2000, former New York Times restaurant critic Bryan Miller praised the Portland dining scene in the newspaper’s travel section. “For a city of only 65,000, Portland, Me., boasts more high-quality restaurants than most cities twice its size,” he wrote. Some of the places he praised are long gone, including Bakehouse Café (on the corner now occupied

by Elevation Burger), and the “towering, blocklong bazaar” that was the Public Market before it moved to smaller quarters in Monument Square. But 17 years later, Miller’s other recommendations—Back Bay Grill, Fore Street, Street and Co., and Gilbert’s Chowder House—are still going strong, among the old guard in a city where the food scene’s rapid growth shows no signs of slowing down.

David Turin opened his eponymous Portland restaurant in 1992 on the corner of Middle and Market Streets. Other than Street and Co. and the original Walter’s, “there really wasn’t much going on,” he remembers, but rents were cheap, and landlords had empty spaces they were eager to fill. “Portland’s pretty special in that the ocean’s right there, and the farms are right here,” Turin says. “There’s also a financial dynamic that makes it possible for driven, slightly crazy chef-types to get in and pursue what they can’t pursue in other places.” Six years later, he moved David’s to its current location in Monument Square, and in 2007, he opened David’s 388 in South Portland. Despite the current boom, he believes that the cost of opening a restaurant in Portland is a bargain compared to larger metropolitan areas. “I think

Portland was just an early place to get noticed,” he says, citing Minneapolis and Cleveland as two other smaller cities with newly notable food scenes. “It comes down to economics, because the absolute enemy of my craft is always having to consider the bottom line and the business model—nothing creative starts that way.”

Krista Cole is one of Portland’s newest restaurateurs, having opened Sur Lie on Free Street three years ago with her partner Antonio Alviar and chef Emil Rivera. Alviar was an industry veteran, having worked at restaurants in Portland, and then in Denver where Cole, who had been a nurse, got her master’s degree in management and organization. “In a big city, that’s where the investors come into play, and you don’t know the faces behind some of those restaurants,” she says. “But we know the faces behind Lolita, and Duckfat, and Piccolo— people that are chasing their own dream and who bring a lot of heart and hard work to the industry.” Both Cole and Turin stress the cooperative spirit that continues to define the AUGUST // 2017

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“Portland’s like a neighborhood city, so all the chefs, we’re all friends.”

–JOSH BERRY

city’s dining scene. “I’ve said for years that one of the awesome things about being a chef in Portland is that it was never competitive, it was always collegial,” says Turin.

“It’s a city that works like a small town,” says Leslie Oster, recalling the early 2000s, when she moved from Cape Cod to work at Aurora Provisions. She served as the general manager and creative director there for 16 years, until it was sold in June, and is now an events director for the nonprofit Full Plates, Full Potential. “That’s when we started bringing in lots of farmers, and we started forming these relationships—maybe somebody got a pig and they couldn’t use all of it.” Oster has deep appreciation for the path paved by chefs and restaurateurs like Sam Hayward, Dana Street and Rob Evans, who were “passionate about 68 OLD PORT

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what it meant to live in Maine, and what it meant to be seasonal and inclusive,” she says.

“I still do feel like we operate in this very special, privileged bubble, but now there are more kids on the block—the Goulds, Damian (Sansonetti) and Ilma (Lopez), the Volks, to name a few—who came in with a great respect for what was here and who continue to put new pavers on the path.”

The proprietor of three busy Portland restaurants, Jay Villani is an artist who landed in the industry somewhat by accident. He opened Local 188 in 1999 as a gallery with a small menu of tapas, in the storefront now occupied by Pai Men Miyake. “Longfellow Square was an empty, fallow place and rent was cheap up in that neighborhood,” he says.

In 2007 he moved the restaurant to its current

spot on upper Congress Street. “Everyone thought I was nuts moving into that big space; we went from 25 seats to 100 seats and the first night open we served about 300,” Villani says, shaking his head and smiling at the memory.

In addition to Local 188, he now owns Sonny’s and Salvage BBQ; he is also a partner in Bunker Brewing. “I was very lucky to be able to surround myself with the right people,” he says.

“It’s not about me getting fat; it’s about how we get to where we all want to go.”

Villani and other chefs acknowledge that the sheer number of restaurants in Portland has ramped up the challenge of finding and retaining quality staff. “They’re out there, but you gotta pay them; that’s the bottom line,” Villani says. Ten years ago, Matt Ginn worked two jobs—at Five Fifty-Five in Portland and

Opposite page, from left: Owners Antonio Alviar and Krista Cole, and chef Emil Rivera (right), at Sur Lie. Josh Berry in the lounge at Union. Photography by Peter Frank Edwards. This page: Matt Ginn at Evo. Photography by Greta Rybus.

the Black Point Inn in Scarborough—to afford his $700-a-month apartment on State Street.

“Someone told me the rent there now is $1,300 a month,” says Ginn, the executive chef at Evo and the Chebeague Island Inn. “And wages have not changed that much in correlation.”

What has changed, Ginn says, is the quality of restaurant food. “I think even the old vanguard of Steve Corry (at Five Fifty-Five) and Larry Matthews at Back Bay Grill would admit that even though 10 years ago they were all doing good food, they’re doing much better food now. The diners’ awareness of ingredients and technique has elevated.” Other developments Ginn has seen over the course of his career include more ethnic restaurants, and expansion off the peninsula. “It’s not just on Congress Street, Fore Street, and Commercial Street anymore,” he says. “Chris Gould is brilliant out there at Tipo, and Woodford Food and Beverage is doing great—they set the standard for that neighborhood.”

The executive chef at Union, Josh Berry says he was surprised by the warm welcome he received when the restaurant opened two years ago. “To have a city embrace us so fast, especially with the number of restaurants that were here, and

“The diners’ awareness of ingredients and technique has elevated.”

–MATT GINN

great restaurants, some that I really looked up to and still do, I think it speaks volumes to the Maine ‘you gotta stick together’ thing,” he says.

In late June, Berry, along with Turin, Sur Lie’s Rivera, Guy Hernandez of Lolita, and Ilma Lopez of Chaval and Piccolo, collaborated for a dinner at Sur Lie to raise funds for the Maine’s Children’s Cancer Program. “Portland’s like a neighborhood city so all the chefs, we’re all friends,” Berry says. “Owning a restaurant is a lot of hard work, and a lot of people get energy from giving back to the community,” says Cole.

“It’s really cool, the culture that we have here.”

AUGUST // 2017

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Photos: Lucas Sharpe, Maine Imaging (top right)

Latitude 43° 45’ 1”

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3856 Washington Rd. (Rte. 220) Waldoboro, Maine 04572

555 Congress Street 207 761 0555

46 Market Street

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207 553 7044

207 553 2555

COR R Y R E S TA U R A N TG RO UP.C O M Portland, Maine

Rehearsal Dinners ¥ Private Dining Room ¥ Full Restaurant Buyouts ¥ Cakes & Sweets Inquire directly with our party planner, Hayley: hayley@fivefifty-five.com

339 Fore Street, Portland, Maine

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207-536-4702

Greater Portland

Dining Guide WHERE TO EAT NOW IN AND AROUND THE CITY

72 OLD PORT

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33 Elmwood

33 Elmwood Ave. | Westbrook 207.536.7061 33elmwood.com

There’s something for everyone at this enormous and stylish complex housing 14 bowling lanes, four bocce courts, a bustling bar, and a bistro turning out surprisingly innovative food. You’ll find unexpected twists that take traditional dishes to the next level, like fried deviled eggs, Korean barbecue meatballs, and a steak and cheese pizza, with the kitchen constantly pushing the bounds of creativity. There’s a steady rotation of local brews on tap, as well as superb and fun cocktails.

The Armory Lounge 20 Milk St. | Portland 207.774.4200 theregency.com

Tucked away in the lower level of the Portland Regency Hotel, the Armory offers a quiet and relaxed hideaway for drinks and a bite to eat. Expertly mixed cocktails and classic pub favorites, including the famous lobster croissant, are on tap at lunch and dinner.

Asmara

51 Oak St. | Portland 207.253.5122 asmaramaine.com

Named for the capital of Eritria, Asmara serves the deeply flavorful food of that country on spongy, slightly sour flatbread called injera. Instead of utensils, diners use pieces of the bread to scoop up dishes like sauteed lamb and spinach with onions and berbere— a spicy red pepper paste that is a staple of the cuisine.

Aurora Provisions 64 Pine St. | Portland 207.871.9060 auroraprovisions.com

A favorite gathering spot in the West End, meeting all your dining needs from morning coffee, scones, and breakfast sandwiches to freshly prepared take-out dinners. Sandwiches are offered midday, and you can top lunch off with a treat from the tempting selection of cookies and bars. There’s a fine selection of gourmet grocery items and wines as well. Aurora is a go-to caterer in town for everything from meetings to weddings.

The Back Bay Grill

65 Portland St. | Portland 207.772.8833 backbaygrill.com

A perennial favorite, Back Bay Grill has diners returning year after year with its sophisticated but welcoming atmosphere, top-notch service and consistently wonderful food. Chef and owner Larry Matthews may be the most universally well-regarded chef in the state. He consistently meets high expectations, with classic dishes like beef tartar and lavender-marinated duck. The bar, with its award-winning wine list, is an elegant spot to meet for a drink or supper.

Baharat

91 Anderson St.| Portland 207.613.9849 baharatmaine.com

The bricks and mortar version of the beloved CN Shawarma food truck,

Baharat serves up old-favorites like their fried potatoes with garlic sauce and delicious new dishes. The menu changes daily, focusing on fresh ingredients and complex spice blends.

Bright and tasty cocktails are created to complement the food.

Baobao Dumpling House 133 Spring St. | Portland 207.772.8400 baobaodumplinghouse.com

Award-winning chef Cara Stadler offers affordable and tasty Asian comfort food here in her sophomore effort.

The menu focuses on exceptionally well-made dumplings with a variety of meat, seafood, and vegetarian fillings, with salads and cold dishes rounding out the menu. The room is casual and spare, but always filled with an energetic, food-loving crowd. Sake, wine, local beer, and Asian-inspired specialty cocktails are a big part of the draw.

Bayside American Cafe 98 Portland St. | Portland 207.774.0005 baysideamericancafe.com

A favorite for those in search of an outof-the-ordinary hearty and delicious breakfast, brunch, or lunch, Bayside (formerly Bintliff’s) offers it all. Lobster Benedict, specialty pancakes, and some of the best scrambled eggs you’ve ever had are available seven days a week. In warm weather, the treehouse deck is the place to be.

Bayside Bowl

58 Alder St. | Portland 207.791.2695 baysidebowl.com

It may come as a surprise to find truly delicious food at a bowling alley, but Bayside has a menu full of unusual and fun choices. Lobster grilled cheese and the Drunk on Lane 9 burger with sweet potato fries are just two favorites. There are also several vegan and vegetarian items, and the bar has a full list of beers and cocktails. A new rooftop deck features an Airstream trailer serving up tacos and a margarita bar.

Becky’s Diner

390 Commercial St. | Portland 207.773.7070 beckysdiner.com

Becky’s is the early-morning gathering spot on the waterfront for everyone from lobstermen and lawyers to tourists in search of a down-home Maine experience. A family-owned and run business since 1991, you would be hard-pressed to meet any Portlander for whom Becky’s doesn’t hold a special place in the heart, and stomach, for pancakes and lobster rolls. The diner also serves dinner, as well as beer and wine.

b.good

15 Exchange St. | Portland 207.747.5355 200 Gorham Rd. | So. Portland 207.356.4406 bgood.com

The mission is real food, fast. Ingredients are sourced from local farms and used in veggie and grain bowls, seasonal salads, burgers, hand-cut oven fries, and shakes. Everything is freshly made and healthful without feeling like you’re missing out on anything.

Big Fin Poké

855 Main St. | Westbrook 207.591.0171 bigfinpoke.com

Fast, fresh, and fun is the best way to describe the poké bowls at Big Fin. You can order one of the suggestions from the menu, or build your own from an array of ingredients, starting with rice and a raw fish base (chicken, beef, and tofu are also available). Add toppings and sauces, from avocado and edamame to shoyu and creamy wasabi.

It’s a healthy, delicious way to eat.

Bird Dog Roadhouse 517 Ocean House Rd. Cape Elizabeth 207.799.0270 birddogroadhouse.com

The restaurant formerly known as Rudy’s of the Cape has a new name, but this favorite Cape Elizabeth eatery maintains everything else it has going for it—a welcoming and casual neighborhood vibe, loads of dining options, and an awesome bar. Dishes range from Daddy’s Crispy Fried Chicken and burgers to wood-fired pizzas and bountiful salads. Brunch is perennially popular, featuring deviled eggs and huevos rancheros with pulled pork.

The Point Restaurant at Black Point Inn 510 Black Point Rd. Scarborough 207.883.2500 blackpointinn.com

The historic inn with dramatic views of the Atlantic is one of the most iconic seaside resorts in Maine. Its restaurant has maintained high standards for luxury dining for decades, with white tablecloths and a special-occasion feel.

Chef Dan Dumont amps up New England classics with original touches and top-notch ingredients.

Blue Rooster Food Co.

5 Dana St. | Portland 207.747.4157 blueroosterfoodcompany.com

Blue Rooster’s tater tots and hot dogs have a cult-like following. The tots come in buffalo, nacho, Thai-style, and other delicious treatments; the dogs come from Maine Family Farms Meat and can be topped with house-made kimchi or a pile of all-beef chili, for starters. Excellent sandwiches and crispy Brussels sprouts make Blue Rooster a lunchtime must for Old Port workers.

Blue Spoon

89 Congress St. | Portland 207.773.1116 bluespoonme.com

An East End fixture since 2004, Blue Spoon is known far and wide for a fabulous bistro burger made with caramelized onions, red wine, and herbs.

Chef-owner David Iovino sources fresh, local ingredients for a varied and innovative menu. The wildly popular happy hour, simply called Wine Time, offers daily wine specials and small bites.

Blyth & Burrows

26 Exchange St. | Portland 207.613.9070 blythandburrows.com

Opposite page: An artistic small plate at Evo. Photography by Greta Rybus. This page, from top: Foie gras with raspberries at Back Bay Grill. Photography by Nicole Wolf. A cocktail at Sonnys. Photography by Liz Caron.

No detail has been overlooked in the Old Port’s newest craft cocktail

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This page: Squid ink pasta at Lolita. Photography

by Nicole Wolf. Opposite page: The dining room at Scales offers views of the water front. Photography by Myriam Babin.

bar with a raw bar and small but enticing menu of bar bites. The impressive décor, on four levels, pays homage to Portland’s maritime heritage. There’s also a secret back bar (enter through the back alley), called the Broken Dram, and an intimate Victorian lounge. Drinks are both creative and classic, using local spirits and ingredients.

gained an enthusiastic following.

Maine seafood and hearty Irish fare share the menu, with specialties like shepherd’s pie, fish and chips, and lobster rolls. Order up a Guinness or a dram of Irish whiskey and enjoy the Old Port view.

Central Provisions

Boda

414 Fore St. | Portland 207.805.1085 central-provisions.com

Far from the standard Thai restaurant, Boda focuses on the cuisine of hawker stalls in the streets of Bangkok. In addition to the perennial favorite Brussels sprouts and fried quail eggs, there’s a variety of special salads and noodle dishes, each bursting with a combination of fresh, tart, sweet, and spicy flavors.

Boda is the place to challenge your palate and come out delightfully thrilled.

Chaval

671 Congress St. | Portland 207.347.7557 bodamaine.com

Boone’s Fish House & Oyster Room

86 Commercial St. on Custom House Wharf | Portland 207.774.5725 boonesfishhouse.com

Boone’s has a long legacy on Portland’s waterfront, and now chef-owner Harding Lee Smith is running the show. His menu features an extensive selection of updated seafood classics, including an enormous lobster roll, seafood Newburg served in a popover, and a fried scallop BLT. Sit on one of two outdoor decks and take in the sights, and tastes, of Casco Bay.

BRGR Bar

11 Brown St. | Portland 207.835.0786 brgr-bar.com

Super creative burgers with a multitude of toppings, made from Maine Family Farms Meat grass-fed beef, are the stars here at BRGR Bar, but other options include turkey, bison, fish, and veggie burgers. Milk shakes, of both the adult and nonalcoholic varieties, are irresistible.

Try sea salt-caramel-pretzel or the Oreo Lift with crushed cookies and espresso vodka.

Bueno Loco Restaurante

240 U.S. Route 1 | Falmouth 207.619.7057 buenoloco.net

Many agree that the Mayaninspired Mexican cuisine here at Bueno Loco is in fact “crazy good” as the name suggests. Everyone from meat lovers to vegans will find menu items to fulfill their cravings for fresh, well-prepared dishes, like blackened shrimp tacos, carne asada, and chipotle pulled pork.

Try a specialty margarita at the lively bar.

Bull Feeney’s

375 Fore St. | Portland 207.773.7210

An authentic Irish pub and restaurant celebrating Portland’s immigrant history, Bull Feeney’s has

Chef Chris Gould’s astonishingly creative food spans a wide variety of styles, cultures, and portion sizes, allowing diners to create their own tasting menus. From crudo and beef tartar to the most imaginative rendition of bread and butter you’ve ever experienced, the menu is progressive yet approachable.

Vegetables are treated with loving care and creativity. Outstanding cocktails at the downstairs bar are not to be missed.

58 Pine St. | Portland 207.772.1110 chavalmaine.com

New owners of the former Caiola’s, Damian Sansonetti and Ilma Lopez of Piccolo, have renovated and reincarnated the old favorite into Chaval. The couple brings vast experience in Spanish, French, and Italian cuisine. Expect an affordable wine list, excellent cocktail program, and Ilma’s heavenly desserts.

The outdoor patio will be open and private dining is offered as well.

Chebeague Island Inn 61 South Rd. Chebeague Island 207.846.5155 chebeagueislandinn.com

There are few places more inviting on a summer evening than the wrap-around porch and expansive lawn of the inn. Enjoy an excellent cocktail there while the sun sets, then head to the screened porch or handsome dining room for dishes that match the impressive view.

Overseen by chef Matt Ginn, the menu features imaginative seafood dishes, pasta, and meats, all prepared using local ingredients, some grown on the inn’s own property.

Cheevitdee

363 Fore St. |Portland 207.747.4795 cheevitdeeportlandme.com

Cheevitdee is a welcome addition to the Old Port, offering Thai food that’s fresh, light, and incredibly flavorful. This newcomer has already won fans with dishes like grilled fish curry, shrimp crepe, and lemongrass chicken skewers. There’s an excellent selection of vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options, as well as beer and wine.

Clayton’s Cafe & Bakery

447 U.S. Route 1 | Yarmouth 207.846.1117 claytonscafe.com Clayton’s is a longstanding Yarmouth gathering spot busy throughout the day. Locals often start with coffee and breakfast

sandwiches on oversized English muffins or freshly baked scones.

When lunchtime hunger sets in, order on overstuffed sandwich, like their famous chicken salad or turkey BLT, or a great soup or salad.

You’ll also find a selection of wine, candy, and huge cookies.

The Cockeyed Gull

78 Island Ave. | Peaks Island 207.766.2800

It’s just a short walk from the ferry to the Cockeyed Gull, where you can grab a seat on the inviting deck and take in the view of Portland from afar. This family-owned restaurant features a varied menu that includes Asian and French specialties as well as fresh seafood, all made in-house. And they’re open year ‘round!

Congress Bar and Grill

617 Congress St. | Portland 207.828.9944 congressbarandgrill.com

This popular gathering spot has earned its reputation for tasty, wellprepared food. Generous salads are crowd-pleasers along with great

sandwiches and hand-cut fries. A late-night menu hits all the right notes with poutine and popcorn chicken. Daily specials keep things interesting, along with a big beer selection.

Congress Squared 157 High St. | Portland 207.517.8831 congresssquared.com

Clean lines and neutral hues set a relaxing tone in the beautiful space just off the lobby of the Westin Harborview Hotel. The sleek centerpiece bar is a chic spot to enjoy beautifully crafted cocktails and happy hour specials that some claim are the best in town. Talented chef Brian Anderson creates small plates that highlight fresh ingredients, such as the exceptional lobster sliders.

Corner Room Italian Kitchen & Bar

110 Exchange St. | Portland 207.879.4747 thecornerroomkitchenandbar.com

display here, with hand-pulled mozzarella, beautiful house-made pasta dishes, and crisp-crusted pizza. Arancini or a generous antipasti board is a great way to start, while perusing the all-Italian wine list, recognized by Wine Spectator for its excellence. The bright space and open kitchen evoke the feel of an Italian osteria.

Crooners & Cocktails 90 Exchange St. | Portland 207.536.0469 croonersandcocktails.com

Crooners and Cocktails serves up classics drinks, like Dean Martin’s Flame of Love martini, in a fun and sexy supper-club atmosphere, in an homage to the Rat Pack era.

The kitchen keeps up, turning out new takes on favorite standards, such as beef carpaccio, scallops carbonara, and a top-notch charcuterie platter. A popular happy hour includes cocktail specials and a bar snack menu.

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East Ender This page: A cocktail at Te m p o D u l u , l o c a t e d i n t h e Danforth Inn. Photography

by Greta Rybus. Opposite page: The house burger a t Wo o d f o r d F o o d a n d Beverage. Photography by Myriam Babin.

The Dockside Grill

215 Foreside Rd. | Falmouth 207.747.5274 thedocksidegrill.com

Take in panoramic views of Casco Bay and watch the boats from the sprawling mahogany and stone bar at Dockside at Handy Boat Marina. Wall-to-wall glass folding doors are left open to the sweeping ocean breeze in fine weather.

Lunch brings fresh and flavorful versions of lobster rolls and fish tacos; dinner offerings include steaks and more seafood specialties.

Drifters Wife

63 Washington Ave. Portland | 207.805.1336 drifterswife.com

This wine bar is the extension of the natural wine shop, Maine and Loire, tucked in the back. It’s a sweet and quiet spot offering a carefully curated and intriguing selection of natural wines by the glass. A small but enticing menu offers an array of sophisticated dishes from the tiny kitchen, with chef Ben Jackson employing seasonal ingredients. Owners Peter and Orenda Hale are helpful and hospitable.

Duckfat

43 Middle St. | Portland 207.774.8080 duckfat.com

David’s 388

very special treat, whether you’re stopping by for a glass of wine and light dinner or the full tasting experience.

388 Cottage Rd. So. Portland 207.347.7388 davids388.com

This is the ultimate neighborhood restaurant, a simple, comfortable room and accessible menu that keep diners coming back for more. Chef David Turin packs the crowds in with a thoughtful mix of modern interpretations and comforting staples. Creative fare, such as pistachio-crusted scallops and pork belly buns, along with seasonal specialties all at reasonable prices, are Turin’s hallmark.

David’s Opus Ten

22 Monument Sq. | Portland 207.773.4340 davidsopus10.com

David’s Opus Ten is a restaurant within a restaurant that offers multi-course tasting menus and elegant small plates, prepared in chef David Turin’s signature “moreish” fashion. Diners enjoy the intimate setting and stellar service at this hidden gem. You’re in for a

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David’s Restaurant

22 Monument Sq. | Portland 207.773.4340 davidsrestaurant.com

Chef David Turin’s flagship restaurant, a longtime favorite in Monument Square, has been given a refreshed look and continues to maintain the high standards that patrons have come to expect. His passion for American and Asian food is reflected in the menu, full of food that people really want to eat. Dishes are multi-layered, bold, and always delicious.

Diamond’s Edge Restaurant & Marina

1 Diamond Ave. | Great Diamond Island 207.766.5850 diamondsedgerestaurantandmarina.com Take the Casco Bay Lines ferry from Portland, or your own ves-

sel, to Great Diamond Island’s quiet cove, the stunning setting for Diamond’s Edge, set in a historic building. Elevated Maine fare is the focus, with excellent seafood prepared with creative touches.

Traveling by boat turns a meal into an experience and the sweet memory of dining on the lawn by the water will keep you warm all winter.

You can’t miss Duckfat. It’s the tiny restaurant with throngs of people lined up outside, waiting their turn for a cone of Belgian-style French fries cooked in duck fat and served with dipping sauces. Charcuterie, paninis, soups, and salads are also available, and why not order a thick milkshake made with gelato as well? A killer beer and wine list completes the awesomeness that is Duckfat.

DiMillo’s on the Water

Dutch’s

A fixture on Portland’s waterfront and a multi-generational family business, DiMillo’s floating restaurant is always the answer when anyone asks where to go for the quintessential Maine lobster dinner. Every table offers up a stunning view of the harbor, and the outdoor foredeck puts you right on Portland Harbor. Feast on chowder, steamers, and other seafood dishes, both original and traditional. The bar is warm and welcoming all year-round.

The day starts early for Lucy and Ian Dutch, who arrive at 5 a.m. to make multiple types of bread and many pastries for their eager fans.

The menu reads like a greatest hits list, with all the things you crave.

Egg sandwiches on warm biscuits or smoked salmon on a fresh bagel start the day, while a crispy chicken sandwich, old-fashioned grilled cheese, or pulled ham sandwich hits the spot at lunch. Do not miss the irresistible hash browns.

25 Long Wharf | Portland 207.772.2216 dimillos.com

28 Preble St. | Portland 207.761.2900 dutchsportland.com

47 Middle St. | Portland 207.879.7669 eastenderportland.com

Chefs and co-owners Karl Deuben and Bill Leavy have all-star resumes, but the East Ender has a low-key, casual vibe and no attitude. The varied menu showcases their enormous talent with dishes inspired from a myriad of cultures.

There’s everything from pork-belly cheese fries to a lobster melt with bacon jam and amazing burgers.

Brunch is fabulous, too, featuring house-smoked bacon and tasty cocktails.

Easy Day

725 Broadway | So. Portland 207.200.2226 easydaysopo.com

Easy Day has it all—a fun, enormous menu that includes nearly every kind of pub food imaginable, from tacos and tater tots to Detroit-style deep dish pizza, ten lanes of state-of-the-art bowling, a large bar, and an outdoor patio with a water view. Be sure to check the website for a full schedule of live music, as well as the best beer and wine list you’ll find at a bowling alley. Private events are a specialty.

El Rayo Taqueria 26 Free St. | Portland 207.780.8226 245 U.S. Route 1 Scarborough 207.494.1000 elrayotaqueria.com

With a new Old Port locale, we can once again get our El Rayo taco fix in two spots. Fish tacos, al pastor, and carne asada are all favorites, served to hungry patrons craving fresh Mexican food. An astonishing collection of tequilas and icy Mexican cervezas are the perfect complement. You can even grab a breakfast burrito at the Portland spot.

Emilitsa

547 Congress St. | Portland 207.221.0245 emilitsa.com

Traditional and updated Greek dishes star at Emilitsa, served with elegance, creativity, and a lot of wonderful olive oil. The grilled octopus is charred and tender, veal shoulder is slow braised, and a whole grilled fish evokes a Mediterranean tavern. A trio of spreads and fresh pita are just the thing to go with the all-Greek wine list.

Empire Chinese Kitchen

575 Congress St. | Portland 207.747.5063 portlandempire.com

Everyone has a favorite dish on Empire’s mouthwatering menu, so go ahead and order them all.

Empire raises the bar in Portland for Chinese food, with garlic green beans, duck fried rice, lobster longevity noodles, and a nice selection of dim sum. Classics like kung pao chicken and orange beef are well represented, too, all in an

energetic, cheerful atmosphere. A full schedule of music and other events is presented upstairs.

Enio’s Eatery

347 Cottage Rd. So. Portland | 207.799.0207 enioseatery.com

Robert and Laura Butler were inspired by the trattorias of Florence to create a cozy neighborhood eatery, where Italian-American comfort dishes like cavatelli with broccoli rabe and sausage are served alongside wood-grilled meats and fish. Choose a glass from an outstanding, reasonably priced wine list while snacking on freshly baked bread with one of the “jars,” a variety of spreads such as trout mousse with capers.

Eventide Oyster Co. 86 Middle St. | Portland 207.774.8538 eventideoysterco.com

Much has been written about the glory that is Eventide, so let’s just say the place will challenge your assumptions about fresh seafood. Offering a staggering array of oysters from Maine and away, beautifully displayed and with a full range of traditional and surprising accoutrements, Eventide’s menu goes far

beyond the ordinary. Their brownbutter lobster roll, served in a steamed Asian-style bun is now the new standard. A glass of something bubbly is the preferred beverage.

Eve’s at the Garden 468 Fore St. | Portland 207.775.9090 evesatthegarden.com

The hidden courtyard of the Portland Harbor Hotel is filled with lush greenery and flowers, making Eve’s a delightful, cool oasis on a summer day. And cold weather brings the opportunity to cozy up by the fireplace. Chef Tim Labonte brings creativity to the menu, from breakfast on through the day, with his award-winning pork belly waffles in the morning to an exciting array of entrees in the evening, using fresh ingredients from local markets.

Evo Kitchen & Bar 443 Fore St. | Portland 207.358.7830 evoportland.com

Chef Matt Ginn’s extraordinary talent is on full display with every stunning plate that comes out of the compact, open kitchen.

Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine is the focus, and every dish

is bright, fresh, and bold. There are choices here for all types of eaters, from vegetarian to adventurous meat lovers, created with local produce and authentic spices.

Well-versed servers suggest pairings and recommend wines. With wellcrafted cocktails and a lively scene, Evo is a prime meeting spot in the Old Port.

Five Fifty-Five

555 Congress St. | Portland 207.761.0555 fivefifty-five.com

Chef-owner Steve Corry holds up the reputation of 555 as a true dining pleasure. Dishes such as truffled lobster mac and cheese, seared Maine scallops, and grilled Caesar salad are favorites, but the menu changes often to include the best of the season. Big, bold flavors reach beyond contemporary American to global locales for inspiration, and desserts are a deliciously grand finale.

Flatbread Co.

72 Commercial St. | Portland 207.772.8777 flatbreadcompany.com Flatbread is a worthy alternative to the classic pizzeria, offering delicious, chewy, crusted pizzas hot

from the wood-fired oven, made with high-quality, mostly organic ingredients. Vegetarians and carnivores both have excellent options, including adventurous daily specials. Every Tuesday, a portion of sales benefits a local community organization.

Fore Street

288 Fore St. | Portland 207.775.2717 forestreet.biz

From sports fans watching the game in the lounge with a plate of nachos and a beer to families with kids of all ages, Foreside Tavern is the neighborhood hub for everyone. The spacious dining area hosts groups of all sizes for sandwiches, salads, and generous but affordable main dishes that exceed expectations about tavern fare, with ingredients that are as local as the diners.

The restaurant that first put Portland on the culinary map still remains one of the most popular dining destinations in the state.

Chef and co-owner Sam Hayward goes to great lengths to secure the best ingredients on a daily basis, with professional and hospitable crews in the kitchen and the front of the house. Simple but beautifully cooked food is prepared in an entirely open kitchen featuring an impressive wood-fired oven, a well-seasoned turnspit, and a wine list driven by food pairings. If you can’t get a reservation, try the convivial bar.

Foulmouthed Brewing

Foreside Tavern

3 Bridge St. | Westbrook 207.591.4185 thefrogandturtle.com

270 U.S. Route 1 | Falmouth 207.781.4255 theforesidetavern.com

15 Ocean St. | So. Portland 207.618.6977 foulmouthedbrewing.com

Practically in the shadow of the Casco Bay Bridge in the Knightsville neighborhood, Foulmouthed is a beer geek’s dream. Owner Craig Dilger breaks traditional brewing rules to produce a creative variety of beers, while the kitchen turns out dishes to match the brews —pulled pork nachos, poutine, grilled cheese, and more.

It’s a fun spot for groups, and we recommend the beer cocktails.

The Frog & Turtle

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The tabbouleh at Evo shines with local produce. Photography by Greta Rybus.

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tagne runs this neighborhood favorite, which also draws fans from surrounding towns. He draws on the French-Canadian food of his childhood as well as classic comfort food, including seafood chowder, poutine, burgers, and custom flatbreads. Brunch is wildly popular, due in part to the housemade doughnuts. There’s live music several times each week.

The Front Room

73 Congress St. | Portland 207.773.3366 thefrontroomrestaurant.com

Harding Lee Smith’s first restaurant, it’s the quintessential Portland neighborhood joint, where hungry East Enders and visitors to the neighborhood dine on updated and improved classic comfort foods. Examples include the grilled meatloaf, pastrami-style salmon on brown bread, and shepherd’s pie, not to mention a brunch menu filled with enticing selections, served every day. Those fortunate enough to score a perch at the bar tend to stay awhile, and all seating is on a first-come, first-served basis.

Fuji

29 Exchange St. | Portland 207.773.2900 fujimaine.com

The sushi is fresh and interesting, but there is much more to Fuji, an Old Port favorite for Asian food.

Warm up to Korean-style staples like bibimbap and bulgogi, as well as Japanese dishes like udon and katsu, best enjoyed with shoes off in a tatami room. Downstairs, the hibachi tables are both entertainment and dinner, perfect for groups and fun celebrations.

Gather

189 Maine St. | Yarmouth 207.847.3250 gathermaine.com

Gather offers a warm welcome to all who seek great food in a friendly, casual atmosphere.

Everyone will be pleased with the farm-to-table menu that includes pizza with unusual toppings, seasonal salads, burgers with crispy fries, seafood preparations, and inspired vegetarian options. A large communal table in the center of the room invites socializing for larger groups. Sunday brunch at Gather is a delicious way to catch up with friends.

The Good Table Restaurant

527 Ocean House Rd. Cape Elizabeth 207.799.4663 thegoodtablerestaurant.net

Serving up “good, honest food” three times a day makes this a popular go-to south of Portland. The extensive menu includes salads, sandwiches, burgers, and seafood, with a special emphasis on classic Greek specialties, like spanakopita and souvlaki. The Good Table has earned its excellent reputation for brunch, with homemade hash and freshly baked treats.

Grace

15 Chestnut St. | Portland 207.828.4422 restaurantgrace.com

An ambitious renovation of the 19th-century Gothic Revival building that housed the Chestnut Street Methodist Church has led to one of Maine’s most visually stunning dining venues. A fully open kitchen sits where the altar once did, while a massive circular bar serves up cocktails inspired by the place’s history, such as the Redemption and Original Sin. The menu features the ever-popular Grace Burger, with cheddar, tomato confit, and pickled onion, and daily specials offer innovation from the kitchen.

The Great Lost Bear 540 Forest Ave. | Portland 207.772.0300 greatlostbear.com

Everyone’s been to the Great Lost Bear, a Portland favorite for over 35 years. It’s a friendly and funky neighborhood place with 78 beers on tap and all the food that goes with them. With a menu that includes a giant burger served between two grilled cheese sandwiches, pulled pork in a jar, all kinds of wings, and several vegetarian options, pretty much all of it made from scratch, Great Lost Bear is always a good call.

Green Elephant

608 Congress St. | Portland 207.347.3111 greenelephantmaine.com

Bright, colorful, and irresistible flavors are the key to vegetarian Asian food so hearty you’ll never miss the meat. Influences from Thailand, Malaysia, Japan, and beyond inform the mouthwatering menu of fresh stir-fries, noodle dishes, curries, and some of the best Brussels sprouts you’ll ever eat. Green Elephant gladly accommodates special diets and requests.

The Grill Room & Bar 84 Exchange St. | Portland 207.774.2333 thegrillroomandbar.com

Chef and restaurateur Harding Lee Smith’s urban steakhouse, the Grill Room reaches far beyond chops and filets. Wood-grilled seafood and pizza are deliciously prepared, and the lunch menu offers big, excellent salads and specialty sandwiches. As with all of Smith’s establishments, the extensive wine list is priced fairly, and cocktails are expertly mixed. We recommend an order of sea salt fries while you wait for your drink.

The Honey Paw

78 Middle St. | Portland 207.774.8538 thehoneypaw.com

The best New England ingredients are used to their best ability, turned into fantastic Asian dishes using techniques, traditions, and lots of skill. The focus is on handmade noodle dishes, and every plate, from the Vietnamese masa crepe

to lamb khao soi, is a complex layering of flavors and textures.

Daily specials round out the menu, and no meal is complete without an order of caramelized honey soft serve ice cream with magic shell.

homey destination with spot-on dishes, many made for sharing.

Korean-style short ribs, sashimi, and savory vegetable pancakes are all good choices, especially when paired with a ceramic cup of sake.

Hot Suppa

J’s Oyster

703 Congress St. | Portland 207.871.5005 hotsuppa.com

Deservedly at the top of everyone’s list for breakfast and brunch (corned beef hash!), dinner should not be overlooked. Specialties with a Southern accent include shrimp and grits, catfish tacos, and fried chicken on a waffle. Regulars will tell you to stop by during happy hour for the dollar oyster special.

Wash it all down with a refreshing Porch Swing or classic Sazerac cocktail.

Hugo’s

88 Middle St. | Portland 207.774.8538 hugos.net

The trio now behind Hugo’s, Arlin Smith, Andrew Taylor, and Mike Wiley, brings a wealth of experience and constant evolution to a name synonymous with refined dining. The beauty of the food— contemporary, eclectic fare that is best enjoyed through the tasting menu—matches its surroundings. This is one of the city’s most unforgettable dining experiences, with an extraordinary wine list to match it.

The Inn on Peaks Island

33 Island Ave. | Peaks Island 207.766.5100 innonpeaks.com

Just steps from the ferry landing, the Inn on Peaks is an easy island getaway for lunch, dinner, or cocktail hour on the front porch overlooking Casco Bay. The restaurant puts out a full range of pub fare, including lots of seafood, plus generous salads and burgers.

Shipyard Brewing’s complete line of beer and sodas is available to quench summer thirsts.

Isa Bistro

79 Portland St. | Portland 207.808.8533 isaportlandme.com

Isa (chef Isaul Perez’s nickname) has an eclectic and seasonally driven menu reflective of the chef ’s background. Every dish displays close attention to detail and technique, from the tender grilled octopus to meatballs and marinara.

It’s an inviting place, done up in simple black and white, with a secret courtyard for outdoor summer dining. Lunch and brunch are worthy of attention.

Izakaya Minato

54 Washington Ave. | Portland 207.613.9939 izakayaminato.com

A newcomer to the East End dining scene, this Japanese gastropub has a name that translates as “stay sake shop.” It’s a casually hip yet

5 Portland Pier | Portland 207.772.4828

Located on Portland’s working waterfront, J’s is as classic and no-frills as it gets. Piles of raw oysters and steamed clams are served alongside generous drinks.

This city mainstay is its own microcosm, resisting change amidst a sea of dining trends, and that’s just how the regulars like it.

Katahdin Wood Fire Grill & Bar 27 Forest Ave. | Portland 207.774.1740 katahdinrestaurant.com

Katahdin’s concept is simple in its appeal: fresh, local ingredients and an impressive wood-fired grill. Specials, including the day boat catch, make the best use of seasonal ingredients with imaginative and well-prepared dishes. Ownerbartender Winnie Moody has been greeting patrons for over a decade and is widely regarded as one of the best in the business.

LB Kitchen

249 Congress St. | Portland 207.775.2695 lbkitchenportlandme.com

Chef Lee Farrington has returned to Congress Street with an entirely new concept: healthful, fresh, quick, and casual food. There’s avocado toast and sweet-and-salty oats for breakfast, quinoa veggie bowls for lunch, and “liquid gold” bone broth any time. Tandem coffee, fresh juices, smoothies, and much more are available at this sweet, low-key spot.

LFK

188A State St. | Portland 207.899.3277 lfkportland.me

Housed in a dimly lit corner space in the West End with eclectic retro furniture, LFK could be filed away as a true drinker’s establishment.

There’s an extensive selection of beer on tap and in the bottle, and mixed drinks like the Mainehattan.

But it would be a mistake to overlook the fine food coming out of the kitchen, including pub classics like deviled eggs, skillet mac and cheese with bacon, and a burger served on a grilled pretzel bun with a liberal dollop of pimento cheese.

Lazzari

618 Congress St. | Portland 207.536.0368

ice cream for affogatos, and a great bar.

Liquid Riot Bottling Co.

250 Commercial St. Portland | 207.221.8889 liquidriot.com

This brewery, distillery, and restobar on the waterfront checks all the boxes, with 16 of its own beers on tap and a variety of house-distilled spirits to be enjoyed straight, in cocktails, and used in almost every dish. The menu also fulfills every desire, offering well-prepared small plates, sliders, and snacks that incorporate their beverage products, like beer cheddar popcorn and mussels with pale ale.

Little Tap House

106 High St. | Portland 207.518.9283 littletaphouse.com

Their motto, “drink fresh, drink local,” explains the 14 beers on tap, all from Maine, which can be tasted four at a time in beer flights.

Tap takeovers, daily bar and barrel specials, and other events means there’s always something new.

Fresh, inventive food is on the appealing menu, from indulgent snacks to share to larger entrees and a killer ice cream sandwich. It’s all made in-house, often with the same beer that’s poured at the bar.

Local 188

685 Congress St. | Portland 207.761.7909 local188.com

There’s a casual, appealing bohemian vibe that has made Local 188 a perennially popular gathering spot for drinks, dinner, and brunch.

The menu’s roots are in Latin cuisine, but you’ll find influences from all over the Mediterranean.

Choose from an ever-changing list of excellent tapas, and don’t miss the paella with house-made chorizo. The progressive wine and cocktail selection complements the menu beautifully.

Lolita Vinoteca & Asador

90 Congress St. | Portland 207.775.5652 lolita-portland.com

Food and wine get equal billing at this exceptionally pleasant spot on Munjoy Hill. Small plates, snacks, pasta, and wood-fired oven dishes have Mediterranean influences, all prepared thoughtfully. Staff is highly knowledgeable about the well-curated wine list. Lolita is a charmer and hosts Guy and Stella Hernandez assure that your experience will be first-rate, whether you’re stopping in for a glass of wine or a multi-course meal.

The centerpiece at Portland’s newest pizza place is an enormous, wood-fired copper oven that turns out fabulous and authentic pies.

Owner Tom Barr, also of Taco Escobarr, has made the space into a handsome and welcoming spot, with a menu that also includes roasted meats, salads, soft-serve

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Maple’s This page, from left: A c o c k t a i l a t Te r l i n g u a .

Photography by Myriam Babin. A whole roasted branzino at Diamond’s Edge Restaurant & Marina. Photography by Greta Rybus. Opposite page: A miso-steamed oyster served on a bed of hot rocks at Bao Bao Dumpling House.

Photography by Peter Frank Edwards.

881 U.S. Route 1 | Yarmouth 207.846.1000 maplesmaine.com Since baker Robin Ray took over this small gelato shop, it’s become a Yarmouth morning hub for some of the best bagels anywhere, delicious scones, muffins, and more. Some new delight is found at nearly every visit, with Ray constantly expanding the offerings to include more savory items. The staff, largely made up of family, is as sweet as the baked goods.

Miss Portland Diner

Mami

339 Fore St.| Portland 207.536.4702 mamifoodtruck.com

The popular Japanese street food truck has found a permanent home in the Old Port, so you’ll never have to track them down again.

From snacks such as Japanese-style fried chicken and kobayashi hot dogs to the Big Mami burger, all your favorites are here. The restaurant is a bright and casual place, with the same friendly attitude as the truck.

140 Marginal Way | Portland 207.210.6673 missportlanddiner.com

oldport.com

A brand new addition to South Portland’s waterfront, North 43 Bistro sports big picture windows and two decks overlooking Casco Bay and the Portland skyline.

Chef/co-owner Stephanie Brown brings a creative touch to seafood and seasonal specialties, with global and local influences. Her business partner, Laura Argitis, contributes years of restaurant experience as owner of Old Port Sea Grill.

the-top dishes, from the heaping Apocalypse Now burger, stacked with pork belly, seared foie gras, and American cheese to cones of piping hot bacon-dusted fries and sweet potato nachos. Local beer companies are well represented at the bar, and the restaurant hosts often hosts brewery tap takeovers.

Nosh is everything you crave, even the things you haven’t thought of yet.

MK Kitchen

The North Point

35 Silver St. | Portland 207.899.3778 northpointportland.com

Novare Res Bier Cafe

With its focus on providing a welcoming and unhurried experience, this snug spot is tucked away on a quiet side street in the Old Port. It’s a favorite at happy hour with daily drink specials, and offers not only a comprehensive cocktail program but also over 20 wines by the glass. Flatbread sandwiches, design-your-own meat and cheese plates, sweet crepes, and more make up an appealing menu for a snack or a full meal.

Novare Res, considered to be one of the top beer bars in the country, is tucked into a shady courtyard off Exchange Street. Whatever beer style you prefer, you’ll find it here with an enormous selection of brews from around the globe, on draught and in bottles. There’s a menu full of beer-friendly food, from meaty sandwiches and bierwurst to Belgian waffles.

2 School St. | Gorham 207.222.2588 mkkitchen.net

The city’s landmark diner, first opened in 1949, was reborn with new ownership in 2007. Native Tom Manning returned to Maine to preserve this piece of history, and he’s done it well. Classic diner breakfasts are a given, but come back later in the day for the house-roasted turkey dinner, baked mac and cheese, and other tasty comfort food.

Chef Mitchell Kaldrovich and his wife, Lisa, are the hospitable and talented co-owners of this stylish spot in her hometown. The menu draws on the chef ’s heritage and international experience from Argentina to the Mediterranean to California, with familiar comfort food and a healthful sensibility.

But don’t miss dessert, as Kaldrovich started as a pastry chef and his skills in that area, as in others, are exceptional.

Miyake

North 43 Bistro

468 Fore St. | Portland 207.871.9170 miyakerestaurants.com 80 OLD PORT

Traditional Japanese cuisine is the starting point for the extraordinary culinary experience that is Miyake.

Acclaimed chef Masa Miyake uses French and Italian influences to produce an array of creative dishes, each presented as a work of art. Omakase, the chef ’s multicourse tasting menu, is a dazzling adventure in flavor, technique, and surprising ingredients. A sake sommelier will guide you in choosing a beverage that enhances your meal.

1 Spring Point Dr. So. Portland 207.747.4009

4 Canal Plaza, Suite 1 | Portland 207.761.2437 novareresbiercafe.com

Nosh Kitchen Bar

The Old Port Sea Grill

Who can resist a menu full of over-

The Old Port Sea Grill has been

551 Congress St. | Portland 207.553.2227 noshkitchenbar.com

93 Commercial St. | Portland 207.879.6100 oldportseagrill.com

serving fine American cuisine, with an emphasis on fresh Maine seafood, on Portland’s waterfront for over a decade. A diverse raw bar offers a rotating selection of oysters, clams, and more, making this an excellent spot for you and your out-of-town guests to enjoy lunch or dinner. The lobster roll is a Portland favorite, and so is the excellent happy hour.

Owl & Elm

365 Main St. | Yarmouth 207.847.0580 owlandelm.com

An exciting addition to Yarmouth’s dining scene, Owl and Elm pub has quickly established itself as a locals’ favorite meeting spot.

Hearty comfort food from scratch is the basis for a varied menu that ranges from fresh jalapeno poppers and a fantastic burger with fries to seafood stew and indulgent desserts. Local beers on tap and great cocktails attract friends and neighbors to the handsome bar.

Weekend brunch extends the fun.

Paciarino

470 Fore St. | Portland 207.774.3500 paciarino.com

Simple, authentic, and delicious, Paciarino is the Old Port’s beacon for fresh, handmade pasta, including delicate ravioli and a meltingly luscious lasagna. With a mission to “concentrate on doing one thing absolutely right,” the menu is small, but very appealing. The rustic room has the relaxed feel of a trattoria, complete with a warm welcome from the Italian owners, and a nice selection of Italian wines by the glass.

Pai Men Miyake

188 State St. | Portland 207.541.9204 miyakerestaurants.com

Although the name translates to “100 noodles,” Pai Men, chef Masa Miyake’s crosstown noodle joint, has grown into much more. In addition to the traditional paiten-, shoyu-, and miso-style ramen with several add-on options, make sure to try the sushi rolls, outstanding pork buns, and addictive Brussels sprouts. There’s an intriguing list of beers, including foreign and local brews. It’s almost always busy and boisterous.

Petite Jacqueline

46 Market St.| Portland 207.553.7044 bistropj.com

Portland’s only French bistro has settled into their charming space in the Old Port that feels tres chic at all hours of the day. Come for coffee, crepes, and croissants in the morning or salads and quiche at lunchtime. Evening fare includes French cuisine’s greatest hits, like steak frites and cassoulet, but also fondue and foie gras. House wines by the carafe are a nice touch.

Piccolo

111 Middle St. | Portland 207.747.5307 piccolomaine.com

This intimate eatery is from the uber-talented husband-and-wife team Ilma Lopez and Damien Sansonetti. They deliver the flavors of Southern Italy with passion and flair, using ingredients typical of the area, in new and clever dishes.

Everything is made in-house, from cheese and focaccia to Lopez’s sumptuous desserts. Italian wines dominate the intriguing and extensive list.

Pom’s Thai Taste 435 Cottage Rd. So. Portland 207.767.3599 thaitastemaine.com

One of many highly successful Thai ventures from owner Pom Boobphachati, Thai Taste focuses on authentic ingredients and a rich palette of spices in stir-fries, noodle dishes, and curries. Specials make use of seasonal produce, keeping things fresh and current. Thai Taste sets itself apart from the pack with beautifully presented dishes, skillfully prepared.

Portland Hunt & Alpine Club

75 Market St. | Portland 207.747.4754 huntandalpineclub.com

The Hunt and Alpine Club is one of the most innovative and celebrated craft cocktail bars in the country, with owner Andrew Volk being named to top bartender lists on a regular basis. He and his wife, Briana, are careful to maintain the foundations of classic cocktails, but also push the limits with exciting and original drinks.

Chef Stan Dzengelewski complements the creations with gorgeous smorgasbords and other bites with Scandinavian influences.

Portland Lobster Co. 180 Commercial St. Portland | 207.775.2112 portlandlobstercompany .com

It’s a simple but satisfying experience, and feels like a warm hug on a cold day.

Rhum

98 Cross St. North| Portland 207.536.1774 rhumportland.com

Cross an urban lobster shack with a rocking live music scene, and you’ll get Portland Lobster Co. The waterfront patio, complete with an outdoor bar, draws locals and tourists nearly every night in the warmer months. There are families enjoying the full-on lobster dinner, as well as those just looking to have a few beers and a good time.

It’s a can’t-miss experience in the Old Port.

This kitschy, kicky subterranean spot turns up the tiki to an eleven, with a grass roof over the huge bar and plenty of lounge seating. Top mixologist Trevin Hutchins puts a sophisticated twist on classic tiki cocktails, crafting Mai Tais, Painkillers, daiquiris, and much more with panache. The menu is full of fun food with Asian flair, from ham fries and spring rolls to pupu platters and kimchi rice bowls.

Ramen Suzukiya

Ribollita

This unassuming corner spot, run by a father-son duo, does one thing, and does it very, very well.

House-made ramen noodles are the star, served in big bowls with flavorful broths, topped with egg, bok choy and, if you’d like, meat.

For over a decade, chef Kevin Quiet has been cooking traditional Italian fare filtered through a Maine lens. He uses local seafood and other ingredients to create flavorful dishes using handmade pasta, including delectable ravioli and tortellini en brodo. The restau-

229 Congress St. | Portland 207.761.0905 ramensuzukiya.com

41 Middle St.| Portland 207.774.2972 ribollitamaine.com

rant’s namesake, ribollita, is hearty and thick with vegetables and bread. Simple decor and an excellent Italian wine list have earned Ribollita a cadre of followers.

RíRá

72 Commercial St. | Portland 207.761.4446 rira.com/portland

With a recent renovation of the second floor, RíRá has seriously improved its dining scene. The big space sports stylish seating and an inviting fireplace, plus a spectacular view of Portland Harbor.

Downstairs maintains the look and feel of a traditional Dublin pub.

Imported and local brews are on tap, and the bartenders mix a mean cocktail as well. The menu goes far beyond Old Country classics, with plenty of fresh seafood, local produce, and inventive takes on traditional dishes.

Rivalries

10 Cotton St.| Portland 207.774.6044 2 Hat Trick Dr.| Falmouth 207.747.4020 rivalriesmaine.com

Every type of pub food is present

and accounted for at Rivalries, including wings, nachos, pizza, burgers, and even fried pickles.

Ask for the addictive sweet chili buffalo sauce to be added to nearly anything. There’s no shortage of big screens to enjoy the big games while sipping on a beer from the extensive roster.

Royal River Grill House

106 Lafayette St. | Yarmouth 207.846.1226 royalrivergrillhouse.com

With its stunning renovation, the Royal River Grill House is sophisticated and stylish, yet it remains very much a local hangout. The food is an excellent match for the ambiance, featuring fresh seafood, meats, pasta dishes, and imaginative seasonal specialties. There’s a comfortable bar area, three-season enclosed porch, and outdoor seating with fire pits, all perfect spots for enjoying cocktails and the gorgeous view.

Saltwater Grille

231 Front St. | So. Portland 207.799.5400 saltwatergrille.com AUGUST // 2017

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Asian flavors take center stage at The Honey Paw. Photography by Peter Frank Edwards.

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Saltwater Grille lures you in with a panoramic view of Portland from across the harbor, but the food and service will keep you coming back.

A seat on the deck in summer or by the fireplace in winter is best for dining on updated seafood dishes, steaks, and pasta. Lighter bar fare and snacks go well with one of their excellent cocktails.

Salvage BBQ

919 Congress St. | Portland 207.553.2100 salvagebbq.com

Spicy, smoky, saucy, and briny— the best flavors of barbecue are all represented here at restaurateur Jay Villani’s quick-service restaurant with communal seating. Gigantic portions of melt-in-your-mouth brisket, ribs, and a variety of house-made sauces satisfy your carnivore cravings while classic sides like mac and cheese, cornbread, and slaw round out a hearty meal in this. Bring the family for live music on Saturdays, and keep your eyes open for other fun special events.

Scales Restaurant

68 Commercial St. | Portland 207.805.0444 scalesrestaurant.com This seafood-with-a-view establishment, from the unbeatable team of Dana Street and Sam Hayward, is as close to Portland’s working waterfront as you can get. Dishes featuring Maine’s best are inventive and well prepared, including panroasted lobster, smoked fish chowder, and seafood cassoulet. The bar is a busy place, with an extensive wine list and signature cocktails named for local landmarks.

Schulte & Herr

349 Cumberland Ave. Portland | 207.773.1997 schulteundherr.wordpress .com

Homemade, authentic German food is served in this tiny restaurant with just eight tables. Specialties include spaetzle and roasted bratwurst, plus the hands-down favorite, cured lox with potato cakes and creamy horseradish sauce. Sunday brunch is legendary, with a rotating roast option, which is best served atop slices of hearty house-made toast. Be sure to save room for dessert and note that it’s BYOB.

Sea Glass Restaurant at the Inn by the Sea 40 Bowery Beach Rd. Cape Elizabeth 207.799.3134 innbythesea.com

With a breathtaking view of Casco Bay just beyond the wide green lawn, Sea Glass is a celebration of fresh seafood and local farms. Chef Andrew Chadwick creates dishes in a style that’s progressive but unpretentious, always in tune with the season. Flavors are pulled from global sources—Southern, Asian, and Mediterranean. Score a seat on the patio, order a Maine blueberry martini, and enjoy.

Sichuan Kitchen

612 Congress St. | Portland 207.536.7226 sichuankitchenportland.com Owner Qi Shen and her kitchen team, that includes her parents, have brought authentic Sichuan cuisine to town. Sweet, sour, salty, and spicy flavors blend beautifully in traditional dishes like gong bao chicken, twice-cooked pork, and mapo tofu.

Silly’s

40 Washington Ave. Portland | 207.772.0360 sillys.com

Kitschy, funky, and fun, Silly’s is the place for absolutely everyone in your party. Vegans, gluten-free eaters, carnivores, and food lovers will be exclaiming over the massive menu, with sandwiches, salads, stir-fries, and much, much more, all with silly names. The place is tightly packed and cozy, with excellent service. Don’t miss the milkshakes!

Slab Sicilian Street Food

25 Preble St. | Portland 207.245.3088 slabportland.com

Street and Co. has been a mustvisit in the Old Port for over 25 years, proving its staying power with rustic Mediterranean-style seafood. Signature items such as linguine and clams in white sauce, lobster fra diavolo, and sole française are brought to the table in sizzling sauté pans, hot, fragrant, and utterly delicious. The wine list is thoughtful and comprehensive, and the bar is a terrific spot to enjoy a glass or two.

Sur Lie

11 Free St. | Portland 207.956.7350 sur-lie.com

Sur Lie has secured a spot as an Old Port favorite, with a constantly evolving menu created by the very talented chef Emil Rivera. Most dishes are conducive to sharing, allowing diners to experience the depth of the chef ’s knowledge and cross-cultural experience. With its well-curated wine program, sophisticated cocktails, and terrific service, Sur Lie hits the mark.

Taco Escobarr

548 Congress St. | Portland 207.541.9097 tacoescobarr.com

Best known for the legendary thick-crust pizza, this Sicilian street food restaurant offers dishes beyond the “slab.” Fresh soups, enormous sandwiches, and creative specials, many utilizing the famous Luna bread, are freshly prepared.

Draught beer is mostly local, with some interesting exceptions. A big outdoor patio sets the scene in summer for al fresco dining and special events.

Festively decorated and often packed with those in search of fun, Taco Escobarr is the place for great Mexican food and margaritas. Start with the stellar guacamole and one of six kinds of wings (sriracha agave!) then move onto tacos, burritos, and more. There’s a long list of beers, both domestic and Mexican, and specialty margaritas to quench your thirst.

Solo Italiano Restaurant

163 Danforth St. | Portland 207.879.8755 tempodulu.restaurant/en-us/

100 Commercial St. Portland | 207.780.0227 soloitalianorestaurant.com

Traditional and creative Italian food is the mission for chef Paolo Laboa, a previous World Pesto Championship winner and Genoa native. The menu changes daily, offering house-made pasta lovingly cooked with local ingredients.

Crudo preparations are artfully presented with the freshest seafood.

Apertivo Hour is wonderful, with Italian cocktails and small bites.

Sonny’s Restaurant & Lounge

83 Exchange St. | Portland 207.772.7774 sonnysportland.com

One of Portland restaurateur Jay Villani’s three establishments, Sonny’s is always a good time.

The emphasis is on the bold flavors of Mexico, specifically Oaxaca, and the American Southwest, thoughtfully prepared with local ingredients. Brisket enchiladas, duck ramen, and six kinds of salsa are all menu favorites. The cocktail program is innovative and lively, and happy hour is an Old Port rite.

Street & Co.

33 Wharf St. | Portland 207.775.0887 streetandcompany.net

Tempo Dulu

Located in the elegantly restored Danforth Inn, Tempo Dulu brings unparalleled sophistication to the food of Southeast Asia. The menu incorporates both local and luxury ingredients into traditional and updated preparations, presented with panache. Service is exceptional and highly personal. The chic lounge, Opium, is a lovely gathering spot for enchanting cocktail creations.

Terlingua

52 Washington Ave. Portland | 207.808.8502 terlingua.me

Small-batch barbecue comes off the smoker daily, so make sure to get to Terlingua early for your share. The menu changes often but other dishes, inspired by Mexico, the Southwest, and the Caribbean, can include ceviche, chilis, and even vegetarian plates. There’s an extensive collection of tequila for excellent margaritas as well as a focus on beer, both perfect companions for the smoky, wellspiced flavors. Brunch is wildly popular, too.

The Thirsty Pig

37 Exchange St. | Portland 207.773.2469 thirstypigportland.com

It’s all about links and drinks at the Thirsty Pig, where both can be

enjoyed on their lively back deck.

There are homemade sausages in a wide variety of flavors, from classic ballpark to Thai chili, as well as mouthwatering specialty hot dogs and small plates to share. The beer selection focuses on local brews, including new releases. Brunch and live music are also a draw.

Timber Steakhouse

106 Exchange St. | Portland 207.805.1469 timbersteakhouse.com

For lovers of big, flavorful steaks and extraordinary cocktails, Timber delivers. But the menu also offers other excellent options, such as big salads, fish of the day, and lobster. It’s well loved for happy hour with decadent delights like batter-fried bacon strips with maple syrup and truffle fries. The place is beautifully designed, and a lovely outdoor patio is the place to be in summer.

Tipo

182 Ocean Ave.| Portland 207.358.7970 tiporestaurant.com

This new project from Central Provisions’s Chris Gould is all about pizza, pasta, and other assorted plates of Italian fare. The wood-fired oven turns out pies with a gorgeous crust and creative toppings like clams with hot sopressata. Pasta is handmade and perfectly prepared, but do try the small plate offerings as well, such as wood-oven clams, and meatballs and gravy. Service is friendly and the cocktails have an Italian accent.

Tiqa

327 Commercial St. Portland | 207.808.8840 tiqa.net/restaurant

“Tiqa” is Iraqi slang for kebab, and you’ll find several variations on the menu full of traditional panMediterranean specialties. Chef Bo Byrne cooks with an eye towards the seasons, varying the menu to include fresh, local produce. The restaurant is beautifully designed, with a chic lounge area and colorful dining room, plus a fabulous outdoor patio. Award-winning cocktails and an outstanding wine list complete the Tiqa experience.

Top of the East

157 High St. | Portland 207.526.1996 thetopoftheeast.com

Take in the 360-degree view of the city and Casco Bay from atop the Westin hotel. Popular with visitors and locals alike, this sophisticated lounge boasts comfortable seating and a warm, intimate vibe. Pair your drink of choice with a selection of fresh shellfish from the raw bar, a grilled cheddar cheese sandwich with tomato soup dip, or to wrap up an evening, chocolate fondue.

Trattoria Fanny

3 Deering Ave. | Portland 207.233.6662 trattoriafanny.com

Italian fare, prepared as she would have—simply, true to its roots and with fresh, seasonal ingredients.

Spaghetti alla carbonara and lasagna will transport diners to the rustic trattoria of Italy, especially when served with a glass of wine.

The place is low-key and mellow, thoroughly devoted to the tastes and traditions of Fanny’s homeland.

The Treehouse Cafe & Lounge

484 Stevens Ave. | Portland 207.874.0706

The charming, eclectic dining room and enchanting outdoor patio, with the look and feel of an actual treehouse, are perfect for both date night and a group of friends. Mediterranean-style pasta dishes, including their signature ravioli crisps, seafood, salads, and meats from Pat’s Meat Market downstairs are all on the menu.

Enjoy expertly mixed cocktails and a glass of wine from their excellent list at this best-kept secret.

Twenty Milk Street at the Regency 20 Milk St. | Portland 207.774.4200 theregency.com

Tucked into the Old Port hotel, Twenty Milk Street is a quiet and lovely spot for a business breakfast or lunch, as well as a special occasion dinner. The big fireplace is welcoming and so is the service.

The menu is full of updated American fare with New England specialties leading the way. The wine list is impressive and so are the martinis.

Union

390 Congress St. | Portland 207.808.8700 unionportland.com

Chef Josh Berry and his team stay true to their New England roots, but bring global flair to a menu that often changes, highlighting the very best seasonal ingredients.

They use a myriad of surprising and innovative techniques to create extraordinary dishes you won’t find anywhere else. The space is sleek and sophisticated, but service is warm and caring. An expansive marble bar gives diners a view of the open kitchen, and expert mixologists can see to your every need.

Vena’s Fizz House 345 Fore St.| Portland 207.747.4901 venasfizzhouse.com

Vena’s is a one-of-a-kind place, specializing in carefully crafted cocktails and mocktails made from a seemingly unending variety of botanicals, house-made syrups, and bitters. The cozy room evokes a certain nostalgia, inviting you to stay and sip awhile. A limited but enticing menu includes snacks to share, often using similar ingredients to the drinks.

David Levi of Vinland pays homage to his Italian grandmother, Fanny, with authentic northern AUGUST // 2017

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tasty bar snacks. Lunch and dinner in the dining area offer so many tempting choices, you immediately vow to return soon to try them all. Chef-owner Jeff Buerhaus turns out a delicious mix of Asian, Caribbean, and Mediterranean flavors, from favorite fish tacos to a Japanese Caesar salad. Definitely save room for a decadent dessert.

The Well at Jordan’s Farm

21 Wells Rd. | Cape Elizabeth 207.831.9350 jordansfarm.wix.com/thewell

Reserve a gazebo or a seat at the counter for one of the most captivating dining experiences in Maine. Located on Jordan’s Farm, the menu changes daily according to the availability of ingredients grown just a few feet from where you sit. There’s a tasting menu and a family-style option, but it’s always BYOB and freshly made doughnuts are always on the dessert list.

Woodford Food & Beverage

660 Forest Ave. | Portland 207.200.8503 woodfordfb.com

Woodford Food and Beverage has filled a neighborhood need for a place that’s both family-friendly and hip. The menu is based on elevated comfort-food favorites, like steak frites, oysters Rockefeller, and roast chicken, prepared expertly by chef Courtney Loreg. Carafes of wine are available along with a good beer selection and phenomenal cocktails, both classic and original. The restaurant also shines at Sunday brunch.

Woodhull Public House

30 Forest Falls Dr. Yarmouth | 207.847.0584 woodhullpublichouse.com

Veranda Noodle House

Verbena

The Old Port location of this popular local franchise offers traditional Vietnamese and Thai dishes that satisfy curious palates, balancing sweet, sour, salty, and spicy flavors.

The expansive menu includes delicious and warming pho, fresh spring rolls, vermicelli noodle dishes and stir-fries. Lunch specials are popular with the downtown office crowd, and the ambiance is relaxed and friendly.

This gem of a café has a loyal following for its wide variety of high-quality menu items, from potato and grilled veggie hash in the morning to homemade soups and creative salads at lunch. Friendly service and a casual, inviting atmosphere make Verbena a popular meeting spot all day long.

245 Commercial St. Portland | 207.526.1996 verandanoodlehouse.com

103 Ocean St. | So. Portland 207.767.2011 verbenaonline.com

Vignola Cinque Terre 10 Dana St. | Portland 207.772.1330 vignolamaine.com

One of the original adherents to

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farm-to-table cuisine, Vignola Cinque Terre presents a full menu of simple, delicious Italian fare, all made with local, seasonal ingredients. Much of the produce is grown on the owners’ farm in Greene.

Cheese and charcuterie platters are full of items sourced locally and from Italy, as is the wine list. The space oozes rustic Italian charm.

Vinland

593 Congress St. | Portland 207.653.8617 vinland.me

Vinland takes the discipline of eating locally and seasonally to its highest level: chef-owner David Levi only serves that which can

be grown, caught, or foraged in Maine, relying on his creativity to develop brilliant dishes year-round.

Everything served at the sleek, spare restaurant is organic and gluten-free. At the bar, you’ll find an exceptional list of natural wines and interesting cocktails using house-made spirits and bitters.

Walter’s

2 Portland Sq. | Portland 207.871.9258 waltersportland.com

Walter’s is an under-the-radar favorite that’s quiet and soothing, with a very comfortable lounge area serving up excellent cocktails, wines, and a separate menu of

With a cool, vintage surfer vibe, and a menu that runs the gamut from Mexican corn fritters and pork belly skewers to chicken pho and Thai papaya salad, Woodhull brings fun to the evolving Yarmouth dining scene. Whatever you’re in the mood for, you’re likely to find here, where the theme is street food and cocktails based on the owners’ travels. Beer is just as important, with an exceptionally long list of cans.

Yosaku

1 Danforth St. | Portland 207.780.0880 yosakumaine.com

Yosaku continues to draw diners who adore its extensive menu as well as the tranquil outdoor Japanese garden. It’s known for excellent quality sushi, with crowdpleasers like broiled salmon cheeks, tempura-fried Yosaku roll, and spicy scallops, but there are hot and cold noodle dishes and vegetarian options as well. Service is friendly and kids love to get their own special bento box.

Opposite page: Grilled octopus at Sur Lie, Photography by Peter Frank Edwards. This page: A lobster roll at Union, Photography by Nicole Wolf.

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R O B E V A N S B E S T C H E F : N O R T H E A S T, 2 0 0 9

BY BRITTANY COST PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRISTINA WNEK

When ROB EVANS won the James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef: Northeast, he and his wife, Nancy Pugh, owned two Portland restaurants: the fine-dining landmark Hugo’s, which they had purchased from the original owner in 2000, and the casual sandwich shop Duckfat, which they opened in 2005. In 2012, the couple sold Hugo’s to focus on Duckfat. Evans reflects on his win and Portland’s changing culinary scene.

Q. How did you react when you won the James Beard Award?

A. I was elated just to be nominated. For

each of my three nominations, I just gave myself over to the experience, and then the third time around, we won. It was very validating.

Q. How did you react when you

found out Andrew Taylor and Mike Wiley won?

A. I happened to be at The Honey Paw on

the night of the ceremony. Their staff was glued to their phones the whole night. When they won, the staff told me right away, and I immediately reached out through a text and congratulated them. Andrew and Mike also thanked me for their opportunity with Hugo’s; they bought the restaurant from me.

Q. Why do you think you won the award?

A. To be recognized, you’ve got to separate yourself from the pack and take chances.

I think it’s important to take risks, learn from them, and listen to the feedback coming from all different angles, including customers. We stood out at a time in Maine when we didn’t have the thriving foodie scene we do now, and I’m proud to have been on the frontier of this movement.

Q. Did Taylor and Wiley take risks?

A. I think Eventide’s genius is in simply

taking a Maine model that has not been totally refined. We just didn’t have an oyster bar that represented all the species of oysters in the state. They established a concept around oysters and lobster rolls. There was a safeness to that, but it also involved a lot of risk taking.

Q. How do awards like this affect the Portland restaurant community?

A. James Beard Award winners bring

in food tourists, and the dynamic food scene has played a big part in Portland’s development. Food is the foundation for a thriving community. I love going out to eat in this town. It’s also different from New York or Boston in that you can hit all these spots in 20 minutes, just walking.

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Q+A

S A M H A Y W A R D B E S T C H E F : N O R T H E A S T, 2 0 0 4

BY BRITTANY COST PHOTOGRAPHY BY GRETA RYBUS

In 2004, Fore Street’s SAM HAYWARD became the first chef from a Maine restaurant to win a James Beard Foundation Award, when he won Best Chef: Northeast. While he is no longer behind the stove, Hayward remains a partner at Fore Street and at Scales on the Portland waterfront.

He explains why the city’s food scene continues to astound its critics.

Q. How did you react when you won the award?

A. When I won, it was my third

nomination. I thought, if I don’t make it this year, I’ll contact the judges and say, please don’t nominate me; it’s not going to happen, and I want to move on. When my name was announced as the winner, I turned to my wife and said, “It’s a mistake.” I thought I would be on my way down the aisle, and someone would say, “Oh, sorry, Sam, you didn’t win,” like what happened at the Oscars this year. I’m still so grateful.

Q. Who are you grateful for?

A. Everybody who’s ever dined here,

everybody who ever voted for us, and any of the writers who supported us in publications, articles, and books. I’m also grateful to everybody who’s ever worked here, and I’m grateful to Portland for supporting the restaurant as much as it has.

Q. Why do you think there are so

many James Beard Award winners from Portland?

A. In the book Imagining New England,

Joseph Conforti writes that as new roots join the New England mix, our New England roots show more visibly. Look at the immigration waves that have happened here, especially in Portland, and professional chefs from around the country are moving here, too. And yet, we seem to be more Maine than ever in interesting ways. We still base our food as much as possible on New England roots, at least in the ingredients that we use and the farms that we patronize.

Our roots show. I think it’s those roots that chefs are referring to when we talk about “authenticity” in our food. This is not Civil War-era cooking that we’re finding in Maine restaurants. It’s evolved. In many ways it’s better, but it’s still firmly planted in enduring Maine values.

Q. What advice would you give to ambitious young chefs?

A. I try to remind young cooks, don’t

neglect your craft. Cook well. Learn to use salt and pepper. Don’t be afraid, and practice integrity and courage at every level of your career.

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ANNOUNCE IT WITH STYLE! CUSTOM INVITATIONS | STATIONERY | PENS AND JOURNALS | FINE PAPER | GIFTS | GREETING CARDS

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Phoenix Studio

Restoration and Design of Fine Art Glass Since 1976

B ayview G allery

Maine’s source of custom Art Glass for any application.

Custom Designs, Restorations and Repairs, Windows, Doors, Lighting, Kitchen and Bath, Fusing, Painting, Sandblasting, and more...

• 630 Forest Ave Portland, ME 04101 • 207.77.4154 • www.phoenixstudio.com •

Seaside Bouquet by Thomas Adkins, oil on linen, 20” x 16”

58 Maine Street, Brunswick ME 04011 • 800-244-3007

BAYVIEWGALLERY.COM

F A B U L O U S S O C K S F O R E V E RYO N E !

207.805.1348

Enjoy a waterfront trail run, craft beer, pizza, massages, yoga, healthy snacks, and a dance party at the finish line!

18th Annual

RACE + W ALK

All proceeds support 70 miles of trails in Greater Portland.

SEPTEMBER 17, 2017

Register @ trails.org/t2a

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Make an ordinary trip, extraordinary We invite you to make an ordinary trip extraordinary, and enjoy affordable luxury travel witout the worry. Maine Limousine Service specializes in corporate travel, airport transfers, weddings and all special occasions. Situated just minutes from the Portland International Jetport, Maine Limousine Service has been providing professional, reliable, luxury transportation for Northern New England since 1987.

Toll Free: 800-646-0068 • Local: 207-883-0222 Online Reservations available at www.mainelimo.com Email inquires to info@mainelimo.com

H

Historical charm, enviable location, outdoor space, and modern updates: this three-bedroom, three-bath, West End townhouse has it all. Meticulously restored, the circa 1840, 3,316 square-foot home boasts a formal living room with floor to ceiling windows and the original interior shutters.

French doors lead from the adjacent dining room to a terrace overlooking a private, landscaped back garden. Five of the eight fireplaces, including the one in the master suite, have

been fitted with gas inserts. The spacious cook’s kitchen is open to a beamed-ceilinged family room and offers a view of the Fore River, as does a balcony off the bedroom on the third floor. The light-filled lower level also has a full kitchen and direct access to the garden. Currently used as a single-family, the property is zoned as a two-family, offering flexibility in addition to stylish living and proximity to Portland’s many attractions.

200 DANFORTH STREET, PORTLAND, MAINE • $1,095,000 TOWN & SHORE ASSOCIATES, LLC • TOWNANDSHORE.COM WHITNEY HARVEY, ASSOCIATE BROKER • 207-671-2360 LYNN HALLET T, ASSOCIATE BROKER • 207-671-8187

BenchmarkMaine.com BenchmarkMaine.com

How How Portland Portland does does new new condo condo living living

66 Loft Loft Style Style 1-2 1-2 Bedroom Bedroom Condos Condos •• Munjoy Munjoy Hill/East Hill/East End End Portland Portland •• Move Move In In Fall Fall 2017 2017 ••New Newconstruction, construction,but butwith withsoul, soul,uniqueness, uniqueness,and andauthenticity. authenticity.

••High Highdesign designmeets meetsdesign designwith withpurpose purposein inthese theseclean, clean,modern, modern,and andwelcoming welcomingunits. units.

••Light, Light,bright, bright,and andbeautiful beautifulunits unitsbathed bathedin innatural naturallight, light,with withhigh highceilings, ceilings,large largewindows, windows,French Frenchdoors, doors, ••Built Builtto toexacting exactingstandards, standards,super superinsulated, insulated,and andclose closeto toworry-free/zero worry-free/zeromaintenance maintenanceas aspossible. possible.

••A Alocation locationthat thatisisquiet quietyet yetconnected connectedand andaccessible accessibleto toall allPortland’s Portland’slifestyle lifestyleamenities. amenities.

••An Anassociation associationthat thatencourages encouragescommunity, community,welcomes welcomespets, pets,enjoys enjoysthe thelowest lowestpossible possiblefees, fees,provides providesabundant abundantstorage, storage, shares sharesultra ultrafast fastwifi, wifi,and andmore… more…

VISIt VISIt our our SHowrooM SHowrooM at at 100 100 CongrESS CongrESS St, St, PortLand PortLand (BEnCHMark'S (BEnCHMark'S EaSt EaSt End End oFFICE) oFFICE)

30Lofts.com 30Lofts.com

MUNJOY MODERN At 30Lofts, an all–local team creates smart spaces for urban living

by Susan Axelrod // Photography by Jonathan Reece

Unit 6 at 30Lofts boasts sweeping views of Casco Bay. All the units have large, eastern-facing windows, French doors, an open-flow design, and a clean, modern aesthetic.

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ealtor and developer Tom Landry has spent most of his career doing restoration and renovation work—giving old homes new life and repurposing dilapidated buildings into modern housing. While he is fond of saying, “the greenest house is the one you never build,” sometimes, old structures are impossible to save. Such was the case at 30 Merrill Street on Munjoy Hill, where Landry and his team at CornerStone Building and Restoration are constructing six thoughtfully designed condominium units in a new, energy-efficient building named 30Lofts.

Residents of 30Lofts will enjoy light-filled spaces with nearly ten-foot ceilings, plenty of storage, and offstreet parking. The one- and two-bedroom units all have large windows and French doors opening onto balconies

overlooking the street, and many have glimpses of the water. In Unit 5, water views from the open-concept living/ kitchen area are significant, and its two spacious bedrooms open onto a large, sun-filled south-facing balcony. Unit 6 boasts over 1,600 square feet, two master suites, flexible living space, and both a wrap-around deck and a private sky deck affording 360-degree views, from Casco Bay to Mount Washington.

“We’re locals, we understand Portland,” says Landry. “It’s a new building, but it has architectural interest—inspired by its surroundings as well as being state of the art for today.”

One of his partners in 30Lofts is Rich Robinov, a fellow Portland native whose first project with Landry was his own home on Munjoy Hill, built by CornerStone two years ago. “Tom has a very keen eye for detail and longstanding

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“

It’s a new building, but it has architectural interest, inspired by its surroundings...”

Flexible living spaces such as this one allow for a variety of furniture placement options.

162 MAINEHOMEDESIGN.COM

Clockwise from above: The facade of the building is enhanced by planters, bay windows with French doors, and Juliet balconies; the 360-degree view from the sky deck in Unit 6 includes Casco Bay; along with the modern design, super-efficient heating and cooling creates a cozy environment; the development team behind 30Lofts (from left: Tom Landry, Rich Robinov, and Mike Boissonneau).

be some of the lowest in the city. “Because of the thoughtful choices we made during construction, residents will have many years of stress-free and worry-free living,” Landry says.

Landry’s third development partner is Portland native Mike Boissonneau, whose uncle owned the house at 30 Merrill that couldn’t be saved. “The location is my favorite aspect, and the views from the top are spectacular,” he says. “As an architect, Evan is wonderful to work with—not only his designs, but his thoughtfulness. We all agree we’re putting the best product forward as we possibly can—for the neighborhood, and for Portland.”

.

Photo: Courtesy of Benchmark Residential & Investment Real Estate

timelessness,” Robinov says, citing the combination of 30Lofts’ modern design elements with traditional clapboard siding, a nod to the older residential buildings of the East End. “It’s going to be a signature property for the neighborhood.”

To design 30Lofts, the team turned to Evan Carroll of Bild Architecture, who describes the project as “right on the front edge” of contemporary development on Munjoy Hill.

“The building is close to the sidewalk but not right on it—it’s pleasing to pass by,” says Carroll. “There’s a sense as you walk by that it’s someone’s space, and as a resident, a sense that it’s your space and it’s welcoming.” Carroll deliberately kept the interior spaces uncluttered, giving owners a blank canvas that can be customized “while making sound urban design decisions on the outside,” he says. Buyers will be given a credit for choosing cabinet pulls and for having closets finished to suit their needs. “If people buy in relatively soon, they’ll have more control with the finishes—tile, flooring, and cabinet color,” says Tom Gagne, lead project manager for CornerStone, adding that the “reductive” design helps create a feeling of spaciousness in each unit. “The result is that we are giving people a great place to spend time, whether it’s their second home or primary residence,” says Carroll.

Ranging in price from $389,900 to $895,000, the units are designed to meet the needs of a variety of owners, “from millennials to baby-boomer empty-nesters,” says Landry. “We put a modern spin on intergenerational living.” He expects the pet-friendly building to attract active residents who will appreciate easy, in-and-out access to storage for items such as kayaks and bicycles. They will also appreciate the builders’ use of no-VOC paints and green driveway pavers. “We’re doing our part to create healthy living environments both inside our units and out,” says Gagne. The no-water landscaping, lowmaintenance exterior, super-efficient envelope, LED lighting, ultra-efficient heat and air-conditioning, and more mean that the overall cost of ownership and monthly condo fees will

30Lofts will be move-in ready by October 2017 Tom Landry Office 207.775.0248 Cell 207.939.0185 30lofts.com

ONE IN FOUR MAINE CHILDREN EXPERIENCE FOOD INSECURITY.

THIS SCHOOL YEAR, LET’S RENEW OUR COMMITMENT TO ENDING CHILD HUNGER. We’re working hard to end childhood hunger in Maine by connecting kids to effective nutrition programs like school breakfast, lunch and summer meals.

Here at Full Plates Full Potential, we know which programs are effective to combat hunger. We know where to target resources to reach the highest numbers of hungry kids. And with your support, we will end childhood hunger.

fullplates.org

They say if you’re not bor n here, you’ll never be a Mainer.

We disag ree.

We’ve been making Mainers for more than 60 years!

(Back Row): Mark Fortier, Brenda Cerino-Galli, Bob Knecht, Lucy Foster-Flight, Joi Kressbach, Whitney Harvey, Gail Landry, Tish Whipple, Susan Lamb, Pete Molloy, Sue Lessard, Jeff Davis. (Front Row): Sandy Johnson, William Davisson, Dianne Maskewitz, Steve Parkhurst, Lynn Hallett.

www.townandshore.com | 207.773.0262

one union wharf . portland

GATHER

G O O D T I M E S , G R E AT C A U S E S

MECAMORPHOSIS 2017: MECA’S ANNUAL RUNWAY FASHION SHOW Photography by Dave Dostie

Each year, Maine College of Art hosts a runway fashion show in the Institute for Contemporary Art to celebrate the graduation of its Textile and Fashion Design program students. Featured pieces this year were created in Introduction to Fashion and Apparel and Machine Knitting courses as well as by majors in Fashion Design studio classes.

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“This year’s spring event was our most spectacular yet, building on the energy and momentum of the last four years. Thanks to the support of our sponsors, contributors, and ticket buyers, we raised over $27,000 for student scholarships—and we had a blast doing it.”

–Dietlind Vander Schaaf, development officer at Maine College of Art

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01 Jill McGowan, designer and professor at MECA, and Kim Ortengren, owner and designer at Wallace James Clothing Co. 02 Dietlind Vander Schaaf, development officer at MECA; Betsy Scheintaub, chair of the Textile and Fashion Design department at MECA; and Louise Tuski, program coordinator of the Continuing Studies department at MECA 03 Laura Freid, president of MECA, and Candace Pilk Karu, trustee emeritus and DFA 2013 04 Work by Justin Desper, class of 2017 05 Work by Jackiellen Bonney, class of 2018 06 Work by Nic Gadzik, class of 2019 07 Mary Allen Lindemann, cofounder and community builder at Coffee By Design; Lucille Holt-Sottery, Collaborations and Malone Commercial Brokers; and Gillian Britt, Eat Drink Lucky 08 Stu Kestenbaum, former interim president at MECA, and Erin Hutton, director of exhibitions and special projects at MECA

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When you see Karen out and about tell your server, “I’ll have what she’s having.”

Maine magazine food editor Karen Watterson and a shot of some incredible cocktails she recently sampled at Woodford Food & Beverage.

Join Karen’s dining adventures. Subscribe, read, like, follow.

themainemag.com + @eatmaine

GATHER

G O O D T I M E S , G R E AT C A U S E S

PORTLAND STAGE SUPPER CLUB SOIRÉE Photography by Liz Caron

Supporters and fans of Portland Stage gathered at Portland House of Music and Events for Supper Club Soirée, an event that raises money for the theater’s educational programs and new work development. The evening featured small plate offerings from Five Fifty-Five, Woodford Food and Beverage, and East Ender, and music was performed by Edward Reichert, the musical director of last summer’s The Irish and How They Got That Way. Affiliate artists and singers entertained with songs by Sinatra and Streisand.

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“It was wonderful to have such a strong showing of support for all that Portland Stage is accomplishing in our community.”

—Anita Stewart, executive and artistic director at Portland Stage

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01 Dustin Tucker, affiliate actor at Portland Stage, and Sally Wood, affiliate director at Portland Stage 02 Samara Yandell, development manager at Portland Stage; Dawn Hagin, board member at Portland Stage; and Susan Axelrod, managing editor of Old Port magazine 03 Guests celebrate at Portland House of Music. 04 Gil Hagan, supporter of Portland Stage, and Anne Wade, supporter of Portland Stage 05 Barry Holmes, board member at Portland Stage, and Brenda Holmes 06 Angela Campbell, literacy specialist at MSAD #51, and Kira Pridham, senior business analyst at Aetna 07 Avery Windham, director of marketing at Hyatt Place Portland Old-Port, and Jasmin White, realtor at the Swan Agency Sotheby’s International Realty 08 Bill Bergquist, president of the Professional School of Psychology, and Kathleen O’Donnell, volunteer mentor at Score Maine

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We know Portland.

WHERE TO GO WHAT TO DO WHERE TO SHOP WHERE TO EAT

+ MORE

Need advice?

Ask the experts.

N

ot only do we cover Portland, we live it everyday. We seek out the people, places, and things to do that make this such an incredible place to live and work. This city is ever-evolving and we keep up with it. When you’re ready to head out and about and explore Portland, ask for our expertise. We won’t steer you wrong.

asktheexperts@oldport.com

INSIDER PICKS L O C A L S G I V E T H E I R R E C O M M E N D AT I O N S

BY SUSAN AXELROD PHOTOGRAPHY BY GRETA RYBUS

For this issue, it seemed fitting to ask some notable Portlanders:

What are your go-to restaurants and favorite dishes?

“The lobster stew at the Cumberland Club; popcorn and an old fashioned at Portland Hunt and Alpine Club; the chicken Parmesan at Bruno’s; the steak tartare at Petite Jacqueline; the double real Italian with Genoa and provolone, extra pickles, at Amato’s … shall I go on?”

“I love Isa. Everything they do is perfect in every way, every time. The shaved fennel salad is a standout.”

–Brenda Garrand, CEO, Garrand Partners

–Sheila Gibbons, director of spirits, Pine State Spirits

“There is nothing that I like more than a bowl of miso ramen with extra garlic paste at Pai Men Miyake. I love the way it smells, the music that they play, the servers who have taken the time to get to know me, especially Shea, and the fact that the ramen is so good.”

–Lucas St. Clair, board president, Elliotsville Plantation

“Lobster rolls at Eventide; quail eggs at Boda; burger at Nosh; donuts at HIFI; buns at Empire; green smoothie at Union (for breakfast); chickenrice bowl at El Rayo.”

–Shannon Richards, director of business development, Caleb Johnson Architects + Builders

“Central Provisions is my favorite in part because the food changes frequently.

We also are big fans of the seafood at Street and Company. We frequent Flatbread a ton now with the kids.

My two-year-old is crazy about the pepperoni-mushroom pizza.”

–Melissa Smith, CEO, WEX

112 OLD PORT

oldport.com

“My favorite restaurant in Portland is Asmara.

The owners are great people, their Eritrean food is delicious, and eating with your hands turns an ordinary dinner into a fun and unique experience.”

–Justin Alfond, co-owner, Bayside Bowl; former state senator

“My favorite continues to be The Blue Spoon. The extravagance of its menu is its simplicity—great food prepared expertly and served by a staff that makes you feel welcome no matter how crazybusy they might be.”

–Fred

Williams, director, Old Port Advisors

“If I must pick one, Back Bay Grill is flawless and one of my favorite dishes there—however they prepare it—is foie gras. I had it last week as my starter and it was so rich and silky.”

–John Golden, broker, Compass Commercial Broker; blogger, The Golden Dish

True stories of journey creativity & triumph.

Told by the people who are shaping Maine.

THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 21 University of Southern Maine’s Hannaford Hall Portland, Maine

Watch videos from past Maine Live events online: themainemag.com/maine-live

maineliveevent.com 207 772 3373 events@themainemag.com

Brought to you by Photo: Stuart Kestenbaum, Maine’s Poet Laureate, at Maine Live, March 2017.

WHAT MAKES A DISH “WOW” WORTHY? A culinary mind that never stops creating.

CHEF

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Exciting Maine palates for over 25 years.

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