Old Port magazine June/July 2018 by Maine Magazine

THE

Lobster Issue

JUNE/JULY 2018

AN OPEN LETTER TO OUR COMMUNITY

Photography by Sean Thomas

ultivating and maintaining a positive, inclusive, and respectful company culture is imperative to the success of any organization, and Maine Media Collective, the Brand Company, and Art Collector Maine are no exception. I firmly believe that it is the people within our company, their commitment to our mission and vision, and an environment of respect, openness, accountability, and kindness that define a successful corporate culture. As CEO, it is my responsibility to ensure the well-being of our employees and partners in pursuing our collective goals and achieving results. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve evolved through many phases as a company: from an eager startup struggling to survive to a period of rapid growth to our current state of thoughtful expansion. When I became CEO in November 2017, I focused my attention on our values and vision. This has included a realignment of our culture, policies, and practices and a strengthening of our brand. I am steadfastly committed to creating a culture that is safe, respectful, and welcoming and that provides an equal opportunity workplace

free from discrimination or harassment in any form. I am proud to say that during this period, we have implemented new policies that cover the full spectrum of what can empower our employees to do their best work in a supportive environment. As a woman, business owner, and leader, I am conscious of ongoing inequalities and biases and the impact of discrimination in our society. Indeed, we hear daily that large and small businesses across America and around the globe are searching for effective solutions to these workplace issues. Moving forward, I will engage in dialogue with other business and community leaders on these important issues. This is a time for all business leaders to intensify our efforts on creating the best environment possible for our employees, partners, customers, and suppliers. You have my promise that I will do so collaboratively and purposefully. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m proud to have the opportunity to lead a team of 28 smart, creative, and hardworking women and men every day. We offer all our employees fair and equitable compensation, generous benefits, and opportunities for professional and personal growth.

Equally important, we provide them with a workplace where their ideas are heard, they are empowered to make decisions and be proactive, and they can bring issues and concerns directly to me. As we continue to grow and evolve, we will stay true to our mission: to portray Maine positively, bring inspiring content to our readers, and help local companies grow and contribute to our great state. Under my leadership, we will continue to support our Maine Media Collective, Brand Company, and Art Collector Maine partners to achieve success. I hope you will reach out to me directly to join in this important discussion. Thank you very much for your participation, partnership, and ongoing support.

Andrea King Chief Executive Officer and Publisher aking@themainemag.com

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THIS PAGE “EVERY TIME YOU OPEN UP A TRAP, YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT'S INSIDE.” –WYATT HEADER

June/July

2018 38

FRESH CATCH

MAINE'S LOBSTER APPRENTICE PROGRAM SEEKS TO BRING NEW WORKERS INTO AN OLD INDUSTRY. by Katy Kelleher Photography by Sean Thomas

LOBSTER LEGACY

PROTECTING A TRADITIONAL INDUSTRY THROUGH PROGRESSIVE MARKETING, WORKER-INFLUENCED LAWMAKING, AND POSITIVE EXAMPLE. by Katy Kelleher Photography by Nicole Wolf

INTO THE 21ST CENTURY

ART AFICIONADOS COMBINE TALENTS AND COLLECTIONS IN A MUNJOY HILL TOWNHOUSE. by Debra Spark Photography by Myriam Babin

23 TAKE NOTICE

NEWS, NOTES, AND MORE

24 DINE

FOCUSING ON MAINE'S FAVORITE SANDWICH, HIGHROLLER LOBSTER CO. HITS IT OUT OF THE PARK.

32 36HRS PORTLAND A FAMILY-FRIENDLY WEEKEND

78 A-LIST

LOBSTER, MINUS THE BIB

IN EVERY ISSUE 15 18 21

EDITORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NOTE STAFF INSIGHTS TALENT ROSTER

ON THE COVER WITH FORT GORGES IN THE BACKGROUND LOBSTER APPRENTICE JACKSON HEADER LOOKS TO DROP ONE OF HIS TRAPS IN CASCO BAY. Photography by Sean Thomas

48 58

Karen Bowe, Ryan Hammond, Peter Heinz, Tom Urban DIRECTOR OF EVENTS & VISIBILITY | Shelbi Wassick OFFICE MANAGER | Casey Lovejoy CIRCULATION | Sarah Lynn

ART COLLECTOR MAINE |

Ann Caudle, Taylor McCafferty, Kendra McDonald, Emma Wilson THE BRAND COMPANY |

Taylor Adams, Chris Kast, Maureen Littlefield LOVE MAINE RADIO WITH DR. LISA BELISLE |

Dr. Lisa Belisle, Kate Gardner, Paul Koenig, Casey Lovejoy, Sean Slaughter, Shelbi Wassick MAINE HOME+DESIGN MAGAZINE |

Danielle Devine, Joel Kuschke MAINE MAGAZINE |

Paul Koenig, Joel Kuschke AGELESS MAINE MAGAZINE |

Susan Axelrod, Sarah Prak

SUBSCRIBE | oldport.com

Old Port is published twelve times a year by Maine Media Collective LLC. Editorial and subscription information: phone 207.772.3373 | fax 888.836.6715 16 Middle Street | Suite 501 | Portland | Maine | 04101 Opinions expressed in articles or advertisements, unless otherwise noted, do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher, staff, or advisory board. Every effort has been made to ensure that all information presented in this issue is accurate, and neither Old Port nor any of its staff is responsible for omissions or information that has been misrepresented to the magazine. Copyright © 2018, Maine Media Collective LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission, in writing, from the publisher. Printed in the U.S.A. oldport.com

225 Two Lights Road Cape Elizabeth, Maine Open Daily, 11-8 March 31-October 25 •

207.799.1677

www.lobstershacktwolights.com 14 OLD PORT

oldport.com

Editor’s Note PHOTOGRAPHY BY TED AXELROD

Ted Axelrod, Myriam Babin, Kristin Teig, Nicole Wolf

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | Dr. Lisa Belisle

Connect on SOCIAL MEDIA Facebook

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As participants in the program, brothers Jackson and Wyatt Header are learning all about lobsters and how to navigate Casco Bay in their skiff (Fresh Catch, page 38).

Generations of lobstermen have dropped their traps in the salty, clean waters of Casco Bay. The older cohort tends to be reticent about telling their stories for publication, but Jeff Putnam is part of the new wave, having entered the trade after he graduated high school. Writer Katy Kelleher spent time with Putnam, a Chebeague Island resident, learning about his involvement in marketing initiatives and efforts to mentor younger fishermen to ensure the industry’s future (Lobster Legacy, page 48).

Finally, this month’s A-List includes ideas for eating lobster that don’t involve a bib, claw crackers, and dripping butter (page 78). Not that there’s anything wrong with that.

ollowing a winter that seemed like it would never end, summer is finally, really and truly here. If you’re like me, the good weather brings a steady stream of visitors from outside Maine who have one food in particular on their minds: lobster. Fortunately for them, and for us, we have plenty of it, thanks to the efforts of Maine lobstermen to conserve this important—and delicious—resource.

The waiting list for commercial lobster licenses is notoriously long. To streamline the process for Mainers under the age of 22, the Department of Marine Resources has an apprentice program, in which career lobstermen sponsor students for two years.

It’s a good bet that summer visitors will want to know where to find the best lobster roll. There are lots of options, but based on my experience, I urge you to put newcomer Highroller Lobster Co. on your list. Their signature roll can be customized with a variety of sauces and add-ons, but it’s the locally baked brioche bun that takes this sandwich over the top (On a Roll, page 24).

Happy summer!

SUSAN AXELROD Managing Editor saxelrod@oldport.com JUNE//JULY 2018

Staff Insights W H AT ' S Y O U R FAV O R I T E WAY T O E AT LOBSTER?

“The best way is on the deck of the summer house overlooking Townsend Gut and out to Indiantown Island in Boothbay Harbor. (We can wash down the deck.) The lobster has to be boiled, with lots of butter. Before we cook them, we stand the lobsters on their heads to put them into a trance—it works!” Ann Caudle Gallery Associate, Portland Art Gallery acaudle@artcollectormaine.com

“While I love lobster rolls any day of the week, my favorite way to eat lobster is in breakfast and brunch dishes. I love eggs benedict made with lobster; I love lobster in omelets. I also love it when Boda or Honey Paw includes lobster in their curry dishes.” Andrea King CEO, Maine Media Collective aking@themainemag.com

“Tourist style—with the so-famous lobster bib wrapped around your neck. Racing the family to see who can crack them open first (even though they don’t know I’m racing for the win), cracking the shells open with all the right tools, including your hands. Getting as much lobster as you can out that you don’t waste one bit of meat! Then eating it with lots and lots of butter…that’s really the only way to do it.” Casey Lovejoy Office Manager clovejoy@themainemag.com

18 OLD PORT

oldport.com

WE GIVE BACK.

Our mission is to make a substantial and unique commitment to supporting Maine’s nonprofit community both statewide, regionally, and at the town level. We believe that the work Maine’s nonprofit organizations do, individually and collectively, makes our lives better and Maine a better place to live. With limited budgets, Maine’s nonprofits need help boosting awareness of their specific causes and help to raise the funds they need. We have established long-term relationships with over 120 nonprofits and community-based organizations. We give to these organizations by providing, free of charge, services ranging from advertising, graphic design, brand development, marketing advice, online announcements, and social media engagement. We often include nonprofit organizations in our editorial coverage through feature articles and/or recaps of their events. You’ll find the latter in our “There + Then,” “Turnout,” and “Gather” sections. Over the past year, we have made cash and inkind donations and services of more than:

$1,930,463 WE ARE PROUD OF OUR AFFILIATION WITH THE FOLLOWING ORGANIZATIONS:

SUBSCRIBE | oldport.com

Old Port is published twelve times each year by Maine Media Collective LLC Editorial and subscription information: phone 207.772.3373 | fax 888.836.6715 16 Middle Street | Suite 501 | Portland | Maine | 04101 Opinions expressed in articles or advertisements, unless otherwise noted, do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher, staff, or advisory board. Every effort has been made to ensure that all information presented in this issue is accurate, and neither Old Port nor any of its staff is responsible for omissions or information that has been misrepresented to the magazine. Copyright © 2018, Maine Media Collective LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission, in writing, from the publisher. Printed in the U.S.A. oldport.com

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Talent Roster

THE PEOPLE BEHIND OLD PORT MAGAZINE

SARAH PRAK

Sarah Prak is the art director for Old Port and Ageless Maine magazines, as well as for Maine Media Collective’s annual guides. After graduating from Champlain College in Burlington, Vermont in 2012, she made her way back to the coast of Maine where she grew up. For the last five years she’s called Munjoy Hill home. Sarah can ususally be found sampling Portland’s food scene, exploring the state for unique finds, or adventuring outdoors with her boyfriend Brandon.

RYAN HAMMOND

For advertising account executive Ryan Hammond, summer isn’t really here until the fireworks are flying, the Red Soxs are going into their annual summer slump, and he’s in Maine “comfortably” enjoying a hot dog on the beach with friends.

Subscribe at

oldport.com

DANIELLE DEVINE

Danielle Devine joined the staff of Maine Home+Design as the managing editor in January 2018, after contributing to the magazine as a freelance writer. She has been writing, editing, and managing art, design, and architecture magazines for the last 12 years, and has a master’s degree in decorative arts and design from Parsons School of Design at the New School in New York City. She lives in Portland with her husband, two daughters, and dog, Merlin.

LAMIA LAZRAK

Originally from Marrakech, Morocco, video producer Lamia Lazrak moved to Portland after earning a film degree at the Savannah College of Art and Design in Savannah, Georgia. Coming from a long line of restauranteurs, she particularly enjoys the diversity and intricacy of the city's food scene and its farm-to-table approach that reminds her of home.

JUNE//JULY 2018

SUMMER ART SALE 2018

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Take Notice N E W S, N OT E S, A N D M O R E

The owners of COUSINS MAINE LOBSTER, Jim Tselikis and Sabin Lomac, have written a book about how they started and grew their food truck business. The book, Cousins Maine Lobster: How One Food Truck Became a Multi-Million Dollar Business, was published in April. Portland natives Tselikis and Lomac opened their first lobster roll truck in Los Angeles in 2012 and have since grown to 21 food trucks across the country, including one that will debut this summer at Fort Williams Park in Cape Elizabeth. The book tells the story behind the enterprise and offers advice to aspiring entrepreneurs.

THIS IS SO PORTLAND.

DEFINITIVE BREWING COMPANY is the newest brewery to land in Portland’s craft beer hub on Industrial Way. Founded by Mike Rankin and Dylan Webber, the brewery will offer four beers to start, including a classic IPA and a Kolsch-style ale. Its 1,500-square-foot tasting room is complemented by a small beer garden out front and a larger beer garden behind the building.

More food businesses are coming to inner Washington Avenue. FORAGE MARKET in Lewiston is opening a second location in the building that also houses The Shop oyster bar and Maine Craft Distilling. THE CHEESE SHOP, owned by Mary and Will Sissle, will offer a variety of high-quality cheeses from around the world, as well as regional and local varieties. It will be one of five retailers in a building created from shipping containers at 93 Washington Ave.

The fourth annual ALLAGASH STREET FAIR will take place June 23 from 1-6 p.m. on Industrial Way. The event will feature beer from the host, ALLAGASH BREWING COMPANY, as well as other local breweries. The family-friendly event will also include food, music, and other live performances. THE GREATER PORTLAND IMMIGRANT WELCOME CENTER is doubling in size at its 24 Preble St. location. The center, which includes meeting and office space for immigrants, will be expanding into the fourth floor in addition to its current third-floor space. Renovations, which were scheduled to start in April and be completed by mid-June, will add a digital language lab, coworking space, and a business hub to the center. Fourteen organizations, as well as a number of individuals, utilize the space and its resources.

WE DELIVER. Subscribe 207 772 3373 themainemag.com/subscribe JIM BRADY THINKS AHEAD

CREW CONVENES ON CASCO BAY

SPACE TO CREATE AT EAST END LOFTS

PORTLAND'S

CITY MAGAZINE JUNE 2017

Dockside Dining SCALES DISHES THE FRESH FLAVORS OF THE SEA

Rum Runners

THE CITY’S COCKTAIL CULTURE COMES OF AGE

THE MAINE ASSOCIATION OF MODERN MUSIC (MAMM) opened a second Portland location at the beginning of June. The new location in the historic Walker Manual Training School building at 45 Casco St. will provide additional rehearsal studios and lesson rooms. Since MAMM opened its main office at 125 Presumpscot St. in 2015, the organization has tripled in size and now serves over 1,000 students statewide. The hope is that the new location will be more accessible for students in downtown Portland.

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JUNE//JULY 2018

PORTLAND + ART GALLERY

HITS ITS STRIDE INSIDER PICKS:

LOCAL FAVES OF THE SEA DOGS

Dine

W H E R E TO E AT N O W BY SUSAN AXELROD

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TED AXELROD

ON A

ROL ROLL L F O C U S I N G O N M A I N E â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S FAV O R I T E SANDWICH, HIGHROLLER LOBSTER CO. HITS IT OUT OF THE PARK. 24 OLD PORT

oldport.com

Opposite page: Highroller Lobster Company's cheerful, red and white decor includes this neon lobster. This page: Highroller's signature lobster roll with lime mayo on a toasted brioche bun baked by Southside Bakery in South Portland.

mid-afternoon on a weekday in early April, a time when most Portland restaurants are quiet. At the Highroller Lobster Co., however, there’s a steady stream of visitors, excited expressions on their faces. Greeted with enthusiasm by Colin Mulcunry, they step up to the counter and gaze at the menu board hanging behind him. Will it be the traditional lobster roll on a locally made brioche bun? The cheese crisp lobster taco they saw on Thrillist? The lobster grilled cheese? As I am soon to discover, you can’t go wrong at Highroller. The food may be fun and casual, but the cooking is seriously spot-on. Three summers ago, co-owners Baxter Key and Andy Gerry launched Highroller Lobster Co. with a food cart. Depending on the day, they hawked lobster and crab rolls at Bissell Brothers Brewing (first on Industrial Way, then at Thompson’s Point when the brewery moved) or Oxbow Blending and Bottling on Washington Avenue. Last year, they took the

cart into the Old Port, parking it in front of the Custom House on Commercial Street. That’s when Thrillist came calling, filming the creation of what has become a fan favorite, the lobster taco with a crispy cheese shell. The Maine-Mexico hybrid was the result of a mistake; while making a lobster grilled cheese on the cart’s griddle, some of the cheese oozed out on to the flat top, forming a crispy wafer. “We played with the idea until we came up with the taco shell,” says Gerry. Friends since they were students at South Portland High School, Gerry and Key have long been involved in food. Gerry worked at J’s Oyster and spent several years at Harbor Fish Market. “People would come into the market all the time and ask if we sold lobster rolls,” he says. “Considering what a big thing they are, there wasn’t anywhere in the Old Port that specialized in them.” After Key helped get a couple of other Portland food trucks up and running, he and Gerry decided to start their own cart, “to make the lobster roll that we

wanted to eat,” Gerry says. That meant good bread—baked for them by Southside Bakery in South Portland—local lobster, and keeping the core menu limited. Highroller’s lobster rolls can be ordered warm or cold, and customized with a variety of sauces and add-ons, including lime mayo, lobster ghee, avocado, and bacon. “If you like lobster, you can have a different sandwich every day,” says Gerry. The transition to brick and mortar came somewhat unexpectedly. Peter Bissell, coowner of Bissell Brothers, had expressed interest in partnering with Gerry and Key on a Highroller Lobster Co. restaurant, but the timing wasn’t right. Then they heard about an ideal location on upper Exchange Street. “We said, ‘We need to do this, and we need to do it now,’ says Key. They opened the restaurant on December 1, 2017, having left the bones of the short-lived Portland Meatball Company intact while significantly livening up the space with their snappy fire-engine red and bright white color scheme. Behind the bar, a JUNE//JULY 2018

Much of what's on the menu at Highroller matches the restaurant's color scheme.

26 OLD PORT

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JUNE//JULY 2018

Dine

28 OLD PORT

oldport.com

Opposite page clockwise from top: The tiled panel with Highroller's logo slides to reveal a TV. The surf and turf burger with Old Bay Seasoning-dusted fries. The lobster cheese crisp taco and the Lobby Pop—a split lobster tail on a stick. This page: Highroller Lobster Co. owners, from left: Baxter Key, Andy Gerry, and Peter Bissell

red letter board lists eight beers on tap from Bissell Brothers and other local breweries. On the shiny red tabletops, caddies made from the same wire used for lobster traps hold silverware and napkins. Seated at a table in the window, I take my first bite of a Highroller lobster roll. I’ve ordered the lobster meat cold, drizzled with two of the homemade mayos—lime and red pepper. The buttery brioche bun, lightly toasted and warm, nearly makes me swoon. The lobster is tender and sweet—Gerry says they generally use a mixture of claw and knuckle meat—but it’s the bun that makes this an extraordinarily delicious rendition of a classic Maine sandwich. The same bun is used for the crab roll and the frankfurter, a red hot dog from Shields Meats in Kennebunk. “Southside had to hire more people so they could keep up with us,” says Gerry. I’m skeptical at first, but the cheese crisp taco shell turns out to be an inspired vessel for lobster. Made with a blend of cheddar and

IF YOU LIKE LOBSTER, YOU C A N H AV E A D I F F E R E N T S A N D W I C H E V E R Y D AY.” —Andy Gerry swiss cheeses, the warm shell adds a salty, tangy crunch that complements the seafood. The surf and turf burger also wins me over. An especially tasty brisket burger is topped with cheese, lobster, and romaine lettuce on a potato bun also baked for Highroller at Southside Bakery. It’s served with my favorite kind of fries—thin and crispy—seasoned with Old Bay. “You gotta have an over-thetop item,” says Bissell, referring to the burger, which even without the lobster rivals any in the city.

Having made a big splash in just a few short months, Bissell, Gerry, and Key already have plans to expand. They’re taking over space next door previously occupied by a tattoo parlor, and installing a large patio out back. “It will be as big as this,” says Bissell, gesturing around the restaurant. He’s thinking of parking one of the two Highroller carts outside to lighten the load on the kitchen; the other one will spend the summer down on Commercial Street. Given the crowds Highroller Lobster Co. attracts now, it will surely be a busy summer in both locations. “We had people all winter who said they came to Maine for our lobster rolls,” says Gerry with a wide grin. “Baxter and I started this because we liked making food, and now we’re bringing people here.”

Highroller Lobster Co. 104 Exchange St. 207.536.1623 highrollerlobster.com

JUNE//JULY 2018

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DANIELLE DEVINE

MANAGING EDITOR, MAINE HOME+DESIGN MAGAZINE

There’s a reason why Portland is often cited as one of the best cities to raise a family. This small city is filled with plenty of fun activities for parents, kids, and pets. 01

FRIDAY EVENING

My husband, Ryan, and I live in the Rosemont neighborhood of Portland with our two young daughters, six-year old Eva and two-year-old Hartley. They couldn’t be happier when we tell them we’ll be spending the next 36 hours downtown—and sleeping in a hotel! We pick up the kids from school, stop by the house to grab our bags for the weekend, and of course we don’t forget our dog, Merlin. Our first stop is our hotel. The lobby of the Residence Inn by Marriott Portland Downtown Waterfront is spacious enough for our young toddler to stretch her legs while we check in. Since the hotel is dog-friendly, we consider stopping at the bar downstairs for a drink, but decide instead on a cup of coffee to take up to our room. When we open the door to our home for the weekend we find two baskets filled with locally made Haven’s candy for the girls and a bottle of red wine for Mom and Dad—a promising start to our adventure. After we drop off our bags, we check out the

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new cocktail bar, soda fountain, and burger joint the Black Cow. I notice Susan Axelrod, the managing editor of Old Port, sitting at the bar with her adult son. We quickly say hi and eye their delicious spread. The restaurant is crowded and the atmosphere is trendy, with stylish lighting and old-school music playing on the jukebox. I order a vodka mule, one of the many Moscow mule variations mixed up by the talented bartenders, and Ryan gets the Substance Ale by Bissell Brothers. The kids’ grilled cheeses are perfectly melty, with aged cheddar on lightly toasted housemade English muffins. Ryan and I are both impressed by our burgers, also on housemade buns. We’ve heard good things about the basket of fried veggies that rotates based on the season. Ours is filled with a medley of root vegetables coated in a light tempura-like batter. We head back to the hotel to put the girls to bed. All of the rooms are suites, so we’re lucky enough to have all the amenities of home, including a working kitchen. The girls go to sleep in the bedroom and we relax in the living room while planning out the next day over a glass of wine.

SATURDAY MORNING

An extensive breakfast is included in the stay. We adults opt for yogurt, granola, and fresh fruit (and eggs and sausage for my husband). The kids make their own waffles at one of the many food stations. It’s still early so we decide to take Merlin for a walk down by the water. We spend a while looking at the boats from the Ocean Gateway Terminal before continuing down Commercial Street to Standard Bakery—a must for coffee and chocolate croissants. After dropping the dog off at the hotel, the Portland Science Center is our next stop, and just happens to be down the street. The Planet Shark exhibit has been on our list for a while now. We get our tickets and are instantly transported under the sea. The exhibit has touch screens to learn fun facts about sharks, models cast from real sharks, plus teeth and jaws and rare fossils, some up to 370 million years old. You can’t take your kids to Portland without a stop at Treehouse Toys on Exchange Street. The small shop is packed with a combination

of games, books, and well-crafted classic toys. Above the cash register the wall is lined with a variety of figural pendulum clocks, including a unicorn I might come back for later. We then go across the street to the children’s boutique Little for a baby shower gift. I decide on an adorable outfit by the beloved brand Tea, along with an all-natural teether in the shape of a green apple.

AFTERNOON

I made reservations at Empire for a dim sum lunch so we walk (and stroll) on over. The restaurant originally opened its doors under the name Empire Chop Suey in 1916. The building on Congress Street that houses the restaurant is a historical landmark and apparently one of the inspirations for Edward Hopper’s 1927 painting Chop Suey. We start with sautéed

pork potstickers with a tangy dipping sauce and Peking duck buns. The kids need their vegetables (don’t we all) so we get some sautéed baby bok choy and kale and noodles. The kids’ favorite dish is the bacon fried rice. After lunch I take my oldest daughter to STRIVE Rocks, the annual family-friendly weekend at the Cross Insurance Arena. When we walk in we can’t help but join everyone dancing to the live band. There are bounce houses and inflatables everywhere! While we’re there we stop by the petting zoo, take a picture with Merida, the princess from the movie Brave, and do an inflatable ninja warrior challenge. The proceeds from the event support STRIVE services and programs that help more than 900 young adults with disabilities in Greater Portland.

Meanwhile my husband and Hartley decide to do their own exploring in downtown Portland. They stroll down Commercial Street, passing the wharfs and piers, and happen upon a lovely painted rock with a heart. Hartley adores dogs, and pulls my husband towards the pet store Fish and Bone. They talk to the manager, Tracy Tingley, also known as the Hula Hoop Lady in town. Hartley is particularly fond of Tracy’s black lab, Otter. Before they leave they settle on a moose antler for Merlin (it’s his vacation too).

EVENING

It happens that the Girl Scouts’ 106th birthday is being celebrated at Happy Wheels rollerskating rink in Portland. My daughter is a Daisy Girl Scout and is excited to get on the rink. We both rent the classic brown roller skates, throwbacks to the 1970s. They play

01 Merlin sitting on a bench near the water. 02 Baskets filled with Haven’s candy, wine, and a note from Holly at the Residence Inn Portland Downtown. 03 The girls’ made these waffles with their own hands. 04 Experiencing Planet Shark at the Portland Science Center. 05 Eva weighing her Lego options at Treehouse Toys. 06 Found art on the streets of Portland. 07 Hartley and Otter at Fish & Bone. JUNE//JULY 2018

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We work up an appetite from all the rollerskating and go back to the hotel to get ready for dinner. Flatbread Company is a staple in Portland for families. It not only serves up some of the best wood-fired pizza, but also there are over 21 beers on tap. The atmosphere is exactly what we’re looking for because there’s enough surrounding noise to cancel out our kids’ singing. Our waitress couldn’t be nicer. She brings over pizza dough, along with crayons and paper to keep the kids entertained. After speaking with the manager, Tom Cancelliere, we decide to start with the house salad with the addition of Sunset Acres goat cheese and order a couple of pies. The pizza is done just right and our

favorite is the homemade sausage pizza. It is the perfect mix of savory fennel sausage with sweet caramelized onions and sundried tomatoes.

SUNDAY MORNING

We wake up, put on our bathing suits, and go downstairs to the pool for a quick swim and hot tub. Breakfast is at the Holy Donut on Exchange Street. The potato-based donuts are like nothing you’ve ever tasted. We decide to order a medley of delicious flavors: maple (to celebrate Maine Maple Sunday), chocolate sea salt, lemon, and the girls’ favorite, pomegranate. It is a sweet end to a fun-filled 36HRS family weekend. To cap it all off, it only takes us 10 minutes to get back home.

01 View from the Ocean Gateway Terminal in the Old Port. 02 The kids playing with dough and coloring at the Flatbread Company. 03 Our mouthwatering selection at the Holy Donut. 04 Waiting for the elevator to bring us up to the Portland Science Center.

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This page: Casco Bay is a fertile ground for lobsters. But while the crustaceans are plentiful, lobster licenses can be hard to come by. Young Mainers who want to get into the trade can join an apprenticeship program sponsored by the state. Opposite page: Fifteen-year-old Jackson Header examines a lobster to determine if he can keep it. Lobsters that are too large, too small, or egg-bearing get returned to the ocean.

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OVER 20 YEARS AGO,

Jamie Header was diving for urchins off the coast of Phippsburg when his skiff disappeared. It was December, just a few days before Christmas, and the water was frigid, but Jamie was comfortable inside his wetsuit. “It was rough out, but we thought we were in a good area,” he remembers. He had been harvesting urchins under a ledge, and he had amassed a good haul. “I got to the point where I couldn’t fit another urchin in my bag, so I came up and looked around. I couldn’t see anyone,” he says. His brother, Dan, wasn’t wearing a wetsuit;

he was supposed to be staying safe in the skiff. But their boat had capsized and Dan had gone over. Unbeknownst to Jamie, a life-or-death drama had unfurled while he was underwater gathering the spiny delicacies. His brother and friends had fallen into the water and been rescued by a passing lobsterman. The man’s name was Jackson Percy. “He saved my brother’s life that day,” Jamie says. “I could have swum to shore, but Dan wasn’t wearing a suit. If Jack hadn’t come at the time he did, it would have been really bad news.”

JUNE//JULY 2018

Jamie’s teenage son, Jackson, sits just a few feet away. Both of their faces are lit with the harsh spring light, which glances off the estuaries of Falmouth as the sun descends. Jackson looks out toward the water and fiddles with his cellphone as his father talks; he’s heard this story dozens of times. This is the story of how his uncle almost died, how one lobsterman was a hero, and how he got his name. Jamie has been diving for urchins for decades, but Jackson and Wyatt, his two sons, are new to the seafood business. At 14 and 15, they’re also mighty young for lobstermen. But these two boys grew up on tales of capsized boats, oddly colored lobsters, and oversized fish, so when they heard about the apprenticeship program for Mainers, it was only natural that they’d sign up. “I don’t think I could get a license right now if I wanted to,” says Jamie.

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“This is a great opportunity for the boys to get their licenses—they can each have one by the time they’re 17 if they put in the work and do the hours.” Jackson and Wyatt are members of the student apprenticeship program, which is overseen by the Maine Department of Marine Resources. Under this program, Wyatt can have 50 traps and Jackson can have 150 for personal use. They can eat the lobsters they catch, or they can sell them locally. (Jackson and Wyatt sell them to friends and family, as well as the occasional stranger who catches sight of them unloading their boat.) Each student registered in the program needs to be sponsored by a lobsterman; Jackson and Wyatt are sponsored by Tom Martin of Lucky Catch in Portland. “They can go to him if they have any questions about the laws, or if they need advice,”

explains their mother, Michele Header. While some parents might worry about sending their kids off to work on the choppy, cold waters of the Atlantic, Michele and Jamie are thrilled that their boys have decided to pursue their lobster licenses. The Headers don’t necessarily expect their sons to become lobstermen for life; they view the apprenticeship program as an opportunity for Jackson and Wyatt to learn lessons and skills they won’t find in a classroom. The boys are paying attention to where lobsters like to congregate, and they are learning how to captain a small vessel through open water. “We’re starting to learn where the big rocks are underwater, and what we need to stay away from,” adds Jackson. “We’re getting to know Casco Bay really well.” Wyatt chimes in, “We found a sunken boat out by Fort Gorgesand

Opposite page: Jamie Header, right, with his son, Wyatt, has been diving for urchins and scallops in the cold Atlantic Ocean for years. When he is not on the water, he works in construction as the owner of Port City Carpentry in Portland. This page: Last year wasn't a good one for lobster fishing, but Jackson, left, and Wyatt Header hope 2018 will be a much more lucrative season.

there were no buoys around it. It was cool.” In addition to learning about the underwater topography of Maine, the boys are gaining an appreciation for the life of a fisherman. While they’ve heard their dad’s stories, there’s nothing quite like experiencing the work firsthand. “This program has given them a sense of hard work and what that phrase really means,” says Michele. “I think we live in a society that appeases kids a lot of the time, but we both come from families that work hard. To have our kids doing physical work—that’s a good thing.” Right now, both boys talk about becoming orthodontists. (“I’m going to be a better orthodontist than you are,” Wyatt playfully taunts his older brother, “And make more money.”) Jackson is currently saving up to buy

a truck, and he views lobstering as a way to make money during his summer vacations. But they also realize that lobstering is a viable and attractive career path, should they ever want to go that route. “It’s an option,” says Wyatt. “I love being out on the water.” “Once you get your lobstering license, you can have it for life,” Jamie adds. “It will always be there in their back pockets. They can do it during the summer between semesters at college, or they can become lobstermen if they want.” This is one of the main reasons the State of Maine has instituted the program: it wants more young people exposed to the lobster fishing industry. Under current laws, it is extremely difficult for anyone over the age of 18 to get a license. This means the ranks of lobstermen are skewing ever older, and as Michele puts it, “Every industry needs

JUNE//JULY 2018

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“We're getting to know Casco Bay really well.” —JACKSON HEADER

Opposite page, clockwise from top: Halfway between a hobby and a summer job, the apprenticeship program allows Jamie to spend hours of quality time with his sons. A bucket of bait. Banding lobsters is one of many skills the boys have learned. This page: Jackson looks for the perfect spot to drop his trap.

JUNE//JULY 2018

someone to pass its skills along to. Any trade needs fresh blood.” According to a 2011 article in the Portland Press Herald, the apprentice program was “designed to fit the traditional fishing culture in Maine, where expertise is passed down through families, and those who own the lobster boats are the ones doing the fishing.” Although Jamie doesn’t fish for lobster, he has been diving for urchins for decades. The apprenticeship program offers his sons a chance to participate in the lucrative lobstering

trade, and more importantly for Jamie, it gives him something fun and character-building to do with his boys in the summertime. While some families hike and camp, the Headers like to go out onto Casco Bay, pull a few traps, make camp on an island, and fire up the lobster pot. Wyatt and Jamie have become adept at cooking their own lobsters. “The trick is to use seawater,” Wyatt says. As summer approaches, both boys are antsy to get back out on the water and try their luck with their shiny new traps. Last year

was a poor year for lobster, Jamie explains, and they’re hoping for better luck in 2018. Either way, Wyatt says he’s just happy to be fishing. When asked why he does it, his answer is simple and straightforward: “I think it’s exciting,” he says. “I kind of think of it as a holiday. Every time you open up a trap, you never know what’s inside. It could be a hundred crabs, a dead duck, or a few lobsters.” To which his brother says, “Yeah sure, but I hope it’s lobsters.”

This page: Jackson, 15, and Wyatt, 14, haven't yet decided if they want to make a career out of lobstering, but thanks to the apprentice program, they will always have that option.

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LOBSTER LEGACY PROTECTING A TRADITIONAL INDUSTRY THROUGH PROGRESSIVE MARKETING, WORKER-INFLUENCED LAWMAKING, AND POSITIVE EXAMPLE. BY KATY KELLEHER // PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICOLE WOLF Opposite page: Chebeague Island resident Jeff Putnam is part of a new wave of Maine lobstermen.

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I DON'T WANT OUR GENERATION TO BE KNOWN AS THE ONE THAT DIDN'T HELP OUT THE NEXT.”

JUNE//JULY 2018

You might assume that lobster meat is so desirable that it doesn’t need to be marketed. That’s not true. Like a well-made car that runs for decades or a sprightly white wine that tastes like the sunrise off Icaria, Maine lobster meat is a product that can command high prices thanks to its excellent reputation and its consistently high quality. While the second factor is a result of evolution, biology, and crustacean magic too complicated for me to describe here, the first is purely human-made. And Maine lobstermen, who are famously modest (even borderline secretive), are on the front line of the effort to educate the world about their catch. Jeff Putnam has a medium build and a mild manner that matches his boat’s slow-butsteady pace as we crawl across Casco Bay. Like his unassuming vessel, a 48-foot fiberglass Bellevue that he purchased in Nova Scotia in 2011, Putnam doesn’t trumpet his skills to the world. He displays them slowly, unfurling his achievements over the course of our three-hour conversation. He’s a lifelong fisherman who entered the trade soon after graduating from

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high school. He is a founding member of the Dropping Springs lobster collaborative and he serves on the Lobster Advisory Council under the Department of Marine Resources. He is part of a branding and marketing company, Calendar Islands, that seeks to differentiate lobsters caught in southern Maine from those in other locales. As if that weren’t enough, Putnam has also started a small oyster farm, which he hopes to grow into an aquaculture business that he can one day pass down to his children. He’s a proud father, an active member of his local island community, and the kind of gentleman who names his boat (the Captain B) after his ferryboat captain wife and partner, Beth. When I close my eyes and imagine a skillful marketer with an ear for language, I tend to picture a person in a suit with some slick glasses, not a soft-spoken Mainer in large rubber boots and beat-up work gloves. And yet: “The first thing our branding collaborative did was change the name we use for soft shell lobsters to ‘new shell,’” he explains. “New shell

makes you think of something seasonal, fresh, new. Get it while it’s hot.” Soft shell sounds like soft serve—a variation on a good thing, to be sure, but not a definitively superior product. But new shell? That sounds like something I want to eat. (As it turns out, new shell lobsters are also Putnam’s favorites; “I think they taste sweeter than the winter lobsters,” he says later.) Putnam is part of a new wave of Maine lobstermen. He has a diversified business— fishing and working in aquaculture—and, unlike some of his older counterparts, he’s willing to talk openly about his life and his work, even expressing the occasional (gentle) critique of the fishing industry as a whole. “I think the lobster industry is still fairly traditional,” he says. “I’m a little nervous about the future of Maine as a working-class state; I don’t see the same amount of young people going into lobstering that there was 20 years ago.” Putnam believes diversification is key to making a living as a fisherman, as is banding together with like-minded professionals. His 25-member lobster co-op is currently working

Opposite page: Putnam's boat is named after his ferryboat captain wife, Beth. This page: Putnam pulls the Captain B up to his oyster farm.

to raise awareness about the variety of lobsters that come from Maine waters, and seeks to standardize the prices for lobsters fished out of the Casco Bay region. Putnam also points out that it’s important for established fishermen (like himself ) to mentor young lobstermen, encouraging them to enter the trade. “I don’t want our generation to be known as the one that didn’t help out the next,” he says. One of the ways that Putnam works to change the culture of lobstering is through sponsoring apprentices and hiring young, green fishermen, like his sternman Chad Jordan, Jr., who began working alongside Putnam in August 2017. “I was broke when Jeff hired me,” he remembers. “I heard he needed someone for the day, and even though I was coming back from a moose hunt, I went to meet him at 2 a.m. and jumped on his boat.” They took off for two days, and it was Jordan’s second time fishing offshore. Jordan knew that getting onto Putnam’s boat was a risk, but he felt desperate enough to take it. Fortunately, the days they spent emptying traps together were peaceful in the way that

hard work can sometimes be—it clears the mind, resets the body, and eases away worries. “It’s an honest day’s pay,” says Jordan. “You can work your ass off, make decent money, and not get a headache about it all night long either.” Like Putnam, Jordan doesn’t enjoy talking about his work very much, but he would say this of his boss: “He’s a clean fisherman.” This, I learn, is high praise. Being a clean fisherman means you “go the extra mile to make sure you’re not in anyone’s way.” It means you make a daily choice, “Do you want to make somebody’s day longer, or do you want to be a decent person?” Jordan explains that Putnam doesn’t crowd other fishermen’s traps, he doesn’t play around with the law when it comes to lobster size, weight, and breeding, and he doesn’t cut corners. He treats the animals gently to ensure that all his lobsters go to market with their pincers and feelers intact (injured lobsters are considered lower quality and command less money per pound, and undersized lobsters, once injured, often don’t recover even after they’ve been thrown back). “Jeff doesn’t want to

JUNE//JULY 2018

Putnam is a founding member of the Dropping Springs lobster collaborative, serves on the Lobster Advisory Council under the Maine Department of Marine Resources, and is part of Calendar Islands, a lobster branding and marketing company.

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JUNE//JULY 2018

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Opposite page, clockwise from top: Lobster bands and banding tools; Putnam hopes he can grow his oyster farm into an aquaculture business he can pass down to his children. Putnam hauls up a box of oysters. This page, from left: Putnam lobsters all year, but puts more traps in the water in the summertime. Putnam's buoys mark the location of his traps.

do anything that will hurt the industry,” Jordan says. “He really wants lobstering to keep going on forever. He wants his kids to do it. He wants other people’s kids to be able to do it.” Lobstering has proved a reliable source of income for both Jordan and Putnam. While 23-year-old Jordan is just starting out, Putnam has been lobstering long enough to buy his own house on Chebeague Island, complete with plenty of yard space for his dog to roam and his sons to play. When he’s not on the water, he spends his time advocating for lobstermen, speaking to lawmakers, and watching his kids play hockey on their backyard rink. For Putnam, marketing lobster is a just one way of ensuring that his family has a sustainable lifestyle. Living on an island is difficult, he explains, but like lobstering, it’s a deeply rewarding choice. “Everyone on the island

watches out for the kids,” he says as we sip coffee in his kitchen. “I always know they’re safe.” Out the window, tall pines sway slightly. It’s a cold, windy day, but it’s also clear, sunny, and bright. While the rest of Maine is stuck in mud season, Chebeague feels like a tiny piece of paradise. Putnam admits that sometimes he can take his picturesque surroundings for granted; after all, he’s a Mainer. This is the world he knows, one filled with sea air and evergreens and deepfried lobster for dinner. “I know I’m lucky,” he says. “I grew up on a beautiful island and into a fishing industry that is thriving. And this is where I get to make my living.” He gestures toward the sky, and toward the Atlantic. “Some people can only dream of being able to look out on the bay from their office. I get to actually work on it.”

JUNE//JULY 2018

THIS IS SO MAINE.

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INTO THE

21ST-CENTURY Art aficionados combine talents and collections in a Munjoy Hill townhouse. BY DEBRA SPARK // PHOTOGRAPHY BY MYRIAM BABIN

eslie Hart and Kevin Schochat wanted to get out of the 1800s and into the twentyfirst century. They rent an apartment in a pre-Civil War building in New York’s Soho neighborhood and Hart used to own a fivebedroom 1840s house in the Hudson Valley region. They were ready to retire and hoped to relocate to a sophisticated city that offered country pleasures. Hart’s brother lived in Brunswick and suggested Portland, but Hart and Schochat told him he was crazy. Maine? No, sir. And yet here they are, in a Munjoy Hill townhouse designed by architect Ryan Senatore and developed by Redfern Properties. “The biggest draw for me was the Maine people,” says Schochat. “I couldn’t believe how friendly and open everyone was, and they all said they loved Portland.” It’s no surprise that this warmth should appeal to a Georgia native whose business card reads “Southern charm | New York energy,” or to the equally affable Hart. Schochat is a former child psychologist who became a photographer’s agent after attending the (now closed) Brooks Institute of Photography in California and moving to New York. There, he worked as an assistant to Ryszard Horowitz, a Polish-born photographer who studied under Richard Avedon. (Horowitz was one of the youngest survivors of Auschwitz). Schochat got to know Horowitz’s agent and realized representing photographers was something he’d like to do. Hart is a journalist with international training in Munich and Madrid. She worked for business and consumer publications on furniture, building, kitchens, and bath design before directing her own communications and advertising agency. The byproduct of their combined lives and careers is an extensive collection of photography and Southern folk art, as well as comprehensive knowledge of the many options for building, furnishing, and designing a new property. Hart and Schochat exercised a few of these options right away, having purchased their townhouse before builders Wright-Ryan Construction even broke ground. This allowed the couple to make a few requests, the most significant being to move the open-plan kitchen/ dining/living room intended for the third floor

In the open-plan main living area on the fourth floor of their condo, Leslie Hart and Kevin Schochat prepare dinner in a custom kitchen with flat panel cabinetry. The Danish-moderninfluenced dining room table is a collaboration between Tracy Davis of Urban Dwellings and David Stenstrom of Last Chance Woodworking. It is surrounded by Windsor chairs from a previous house. A custom yew server is at the right.

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to the fourth. The change afforded them expansive views of Back Cove from swivel chairs in the living room rather than from their bedroom, which is now on the third floor. On the ground floor are the entry and a garage, while the second floor has two combination guest room/offices and a hallway bath. Three of the levels are joined by openriser staircases; a final flight leads to a rooftop deck. The couple turned to interior designer Tracy Davis of Urban Dwellings for additional help. The project required Davis to consider how to combine existing antiques with new furniture and how best to present the couple’s remarkable art collection. “They are such happy and bright people on a daily basis,” says Davis, adding that she wanted colors that resonated both with their art and with their personalities. In the living room, for example, the focal point is the couple’s collection of playful, brightly painted wood animal cutouts by Louisville folk artist Marvin Finn. Davis designed open 60 OLD PORT

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shelving and flat cabinets around the fireplace to display the animals. She then picked pale fabric colors for the midcentury modern– inspired furniture, including two yellow swivel chairs, and a green sofa with purple pillows, letting the hues echo the colors of the cutouts. In the adjacent dining area, she combined a custom yew server from Mill House Antiques in Connecticut with Windsor chairs from the Hudson Valley house and a Danish-moderninfluenced maple table, a design collaboration between Davis and David Stenstrom of Last Chance Woodworking in Portland. The kitchen features large lichen-green flat panel cabinets with small pulls, and the appliances have green flat panel surfaces, so the room presents a wall of color. Folk art drove the owners’ bedroom choices, as well, with colors determined by an antique “yo-yo” quilt from Lancaster, Pennsylvania, and bed pillows comprised of fabric from assorted men’s blue and white dress shirts, handmade by New York collage artist Stewart Siskind. Here again, an antique piece (a maple dresser that Hart’s grandfather built) shares

space with a custom contemporary bedframe designed by Davis and crafted by Stenstrom. Although most of the townhouse’s walls are neutral to showcase the art, this room has a soft blue accent wall behind the bed and work by two Maine artists on other walls: a charcoal and watercolor image of oysters by Dudley Zopp and an abstracted barn by Ingunn Milla Joergensen. The many hallways and corners that surround the staircases function like a multi-story art gallery. Some of the images on show are Schochat’s own: black and white shots of a barn door in Georgia; a weathered front porch with rocking chairs; a woman bathing a girl in a washtub; and sunlight glancing off pews in an empty California church. Others are by former clients and friends, including black and white nature photos by Chip Forelli and an image of Virginia Woolf ’s bed by Patti Smith, who is a neighbor in Manhattan. Still others are items the couple has collected, like a circus performer with three dogs by Mary Ellen Mark, an iconic Edward Weston photograph titled Pepper No. 30, and an image of reeds in

Opposite: The colors of an antique yo-yo quilt from Lancaster, Pennsylvania, determined the palette of the owners’ bedroom. The pillows are made of men’s dress shirts, including some of Schochat’s old shirts. The dresser at the foot of the bed was made by Hart’s grandfather, and the painting above it is of oysters by Dudley Zopp. Davis designed the bedframe in collaboration with Stenstrom. This page, from top left: A child’s head from a Baton Rouge wax museum, which Schochat purchased at an antique sale. A photograph of Virginia Wolff's bed by Patti Smith, a friend and neighbor of Hart and Schochat’s in New York. A grid of photos made from the glass plates of Civil War photographer Mathew Brady hang on the wall of Schochat’s office and include portraits of Abraham Lincoln and Mary Todd Lincoln. The painting is an oil by Carolyn Burbage based off a photograph that Schochat took of his uncle. Other items in the room include a couch by American Leather, a rug from Mougalian Rugs, and poufs by Surya.

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“They are such happy and bright people on a daily basis.” –TRACY DAVIS lake water by Weston’s son, Brett. Schochat’s office has a double row of ten black and white portraits of Abraham Lincoln, his wife, and others, all original prints off the glass negatives of the landmark Civil War photographer Mathew Brady. A second-floor hallway once had a shallow closet. Davis removed the doors and fitted it with shelves to fashion an additional display space for curiosities like a whirligig dachshund, a collection of antique pocket watches displayed in small bell jars, and a child’s head from a Baton Rouge wax museum. A piece by folk artist Howard Finster of a flat figure holding a religious tract stands on one shelf, a two-headed iguana by Finster’s grandson, Michael, on another. Hart and Schochat are knowledgeable about the lives of the artists whose work they collect. They visited Finn half a dozen times before he died, and relate that Patti Smith responded to a compliment about one of her memoirs by saying, “Everyone has a book in them.” Schochat says that Finster (whom Schochat once met in his home in Summerville, Georgia) tells of painting a bicycle, when a face appeared on the pad of his thumb and commanded him to “Paint sacred art.” Anecdotes and stories flow easily out of both Hart and Schochat. What they loved about locals, when they first visited, is the very thing a local is likely to appreciate about them: openness and an eagerness to engage with people, creative and otherwise.

In the living room, Davis designed shelving and cabinetry to house the work of Louisville folk artist Marvin Finn. The fireplace unit purposefully blends with the wall to highlight the art. Other items include swivel chairs covered in yellow Sunbrella fabric, and a rug purchased from esalerugs.com. Schochat is a photographer who also worked for years as a photographer’s representative. Chip Forelli, who is responsible for the black-and-white photographs on the right, is a former client.

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