Taste & Flair July 2023

WELCOME

July’s the season for eating outdoors and our latest issue is packed with ideas for dining al fresco . Any one of Claire Borg’s fast and flavourful seafood dishes are summer in a mouthful. Served together, they make a gorgeously colourful spread. Michael Diacono’s family holiday to neighbouring Sicily inspired a medley of recipes paired with Andrew Azzopardi’s recommended wines that sets just the right tone for convivial gatherings. Virgilio Martínez documents the indigenous foods of Latin America, known as the world’s pantry for the variety of ingredients it offers. We feature some of the recipes he has collected over the years in this issue. In our architecture and interior design pages we look at how heritage buildings are being transformed without rupturing the continuity of their history. We take a look inside an architect’s established home in Valletta, the transformation of parts of an iconic industrial building into contemporary lifestyle spaces, and a retrofit proposal for a 17th century building, currently exhibited in Venice, that showcases the possibility of shifting from conservation of historic buildings to their evolving use.

We’ll be taking a break over August but will be back in September.

If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.

Corinne

Feed your imagination

Publisher

The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta

Editorial Board

Paul Caruana Galizia

Andrew Caruana Galizia

Matthew Caruana Galizia

Executive Editor Corinne Vella

Editorial Assistants

Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia

Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net

Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor

Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt

Advertising Assistant

Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt

Production Manager André Camilleri

Production Assistant Conrad Bondin

Prepress & Printing Print It

All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com

No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the written prior agreement of the publisher.

Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888

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Dame mit Facher – Klimt’s last portrait painting. Gustav Klimt’s representations of women have made him the most celebrated painter of the female portrait in the early twentieth century. Dame mit Fächer (Lady with a Fan) was the last portrait he completed before his untimely death in 1918. The painting shows an unidentified woman against a resplendent, China-influenced backdrop of dragons and lotus blossoms. The painting was recently sold at auction for a record sum to an unidentified buyer in Hong Kong.

Michael Diacono’s Peperoni Ca’ Muddica

Photo by Brian Grech. See feature on page 26

CONTENTS

12

Seafood summer

Claire Borg dips into the Mediterranean

26

Bella Sicilia

Michael Diacono visits our neighbouring island

42

Tapping industrial heritage

Contemporary design inspired by iconic Maltese motifs

48

Kettled in Blending architectural languages with contemporary lifestyle

64

The world’s pantry

Virgilio Martínez’s indigenous recipes from Latin America

70

Valletta Vision

Inside an architect’s established home in the capital city

78

GĦALLIS at Palazzo Mora

Flexible retrofit design proposal for a heritage building

The Thrill of the Grill

IRRESISTIBLE FLAVOURS BROADSIDE TERRACE

Summer in Malta brings a wave of culinary delights that beckons you to venture beyond the confines of traditional indoor dining. With the sun-kissed season in full swing, it's time to indulge in the ultimate al fresco experiences, where vibrant summer flavours meet awe-inspiring waterfront vistas.

If you’re looking for somewhere that ticks all these particular boxes, it’s time to book a table at Broadside Terrace, the stylish outdoor resto-lounge perched on a secluded promontory overlooking St. George's Bay in St. Julian's. Prepare to be captivated by the alluring combination of Eastern Mediterranean inspired cuisine, award-winning cocktails, and an ambiance that transports you to a realm of pure gastronomic bliss by the sea.

At the heart of Broadside Terrace lies an authentic woodchip grill, where the restaurant’s master chefs showcase their unrivalled expertise for grilled cuisine. Whether you crave the tenderness of a perfectly cooked steak or the delicate flavours of a fresh catch, every bite is a harmonious symphony of smoky richness that will leave you yearning for more. And as if that weren't enough, every main course ordered is accompanied by a complimentary meze platter, a medley of dips, and freshly baked tandoori bread to enhance your chosen dish.

For those seeking lighter indulgences, the Broadside Terrace menu also features a mouth-watering selection of light bites. From grilled king prawns to charred swordfish marinated in zesty lemon and lime, there’s something for everyone to tuck into as you immerse yourself in breathtaking sunset views.

Broadside Terrace's cocktail menu includes an impressive selection of pretty thirst-quenchers that have earned the coveted title of "awardwinning". Sip on classic favourites such as Margaritas, Daiquiris, and Mojitos, or savour creative concoctions crafted by the expert mixologists.

Winner of the prestigious Hendricks National Cocktails CompetitionMalta,theStraightOutta the Kitchen cocktail is a masterful creation that harmonises premier gin with refreshing cucumber juice and aromatic basil. Smoky richness from smoked egg white adds a layer of depth to the experience, while mojito syrup and lime provide a balance of sweetness and tanginess.

For something more exotic, Broadside Terrace's Island Paradise cocktail - winner of the esteemed Cocktail Competition Caribbeancaptures the essence of a blissful beach getaway. Indulge in the sweet and creamy embrace of coconut rum blended with bright bursts of grapefruit and lime. Sip by sip, this cocktail conjures up images of swaying palm trees, sandy shores, and the gentle rhythm of the ocean waves.

The trepidation that often accompanies the discovery of a topnotch al fresco eatery during the peak of summer is the concern of it being uncomfortably packed out. Rest assured; such worries dissolve into thin air at Broadside Terrace. Every detail of the layout has been meticulously planned to ensure a relaxed experience for all diners, at any time. Thoughtfully arranged tables grant each guest ample space, ensuring a sense of intimacy on the spacious outdoor terrace even at full capacity. With complimentary parking provided for all patrons, dining at Broadside Terrace is truly the epitome of a laidback night out.

From the moment you arrive, greeted by a dreamy sunset and tantalising smoky aromas on the breeze, to the last bite and sip under the summer stars, Broadside Terrace offers a selection of gastronomic wonders that beckon you to return time and time again.

Indulge in the extraordinary al fresco dining experience at Broadside Terrace. Open daily from 5.30pm to midnight. Enjoy complimentary parking at the Corinthia St George’s Bay Hotel car park. Book now for an unforgettable experience.

Claire Borg dips into the bounty of the Mediterranean for her fast and flavourful dishes. The photographs are hers too.

Thiscan be served as a stew or as a sauce with pasta. It freezes well, so it can be made in advance. I used local octopus that was bought fresh, but frozen for a couple of weeks. Freezing an octopus before cooking is a way of tenderising it. If you use fresh octopus, let it simmer it for longer as otherwise it will remain tough.

Serves 4

YOU WILL NEED:

1 octopus of about a kilo

fresh mint

fresh marjoram

fresh basil

1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped

8 cloves of garlic

1 glass of white wine

1 bay leaf

2 medium potatoes

6 tablespoons of tomato paste (kunserva)

800 ml of tomato passata

8 olives

the skin of half a lemon

olive oil

freshly ground black pepper or chili to taste salt, if needed

1. Cut up the octopus into pieces of about one inch. In a large heavy-based pot, heat up some olive oil and add the chopped octopus and the bay leaf. Cook on a high flame. The octopus will start to turn pink and release its own juices. Lower the flame to medium and cook the octopus for about 10 minutes.

2. Remove the octopus from the pot and add more olive oil. Add the finely chopped onion and let it cook until soft. Add the crushed garlic and the roughly chopped herbs and return the octopus to the pot, juices and all. Mix well.

3. Cook the octopus mixture for 5 minutes, then add the wine and let the pot simmer for ten minutes. Add the olives, then the tomato paste and purée. Add the diced potato and a glass of water to make sure there is enough liquid for the potatoes to cook. Next, add the skin of the lemon (in one piece), cover the pot and let it simmer on very low heat for an hour and a half.

4. Remove the lemon skin and bay leaf and discard them. Season the mixture to taste and serve.

Theflavours here are quintessentially summer - creamy white rockfish, zesty summer lemons, and sweet cherry tomatoes, drenched in white wine and scented with fresh parsley and fragrant garlic. This makes enough for two persons.

YOU WILL NEED:

1 rockfish of about 700-800g 10-12 cherry tomatoes, halved 8 cloves of garlic, grated or crushed olive oil

fresh parsley

finely grated lemon zest

1 glass of white wine

½ a glass of water

salt and freshly ground black pepper or chili to taste 250g spaghetti

1. In a large pan, heat some olive oil. Add the halved cherry tomatoes and let them cook for a minute. Add the garlic and stir it in quickly. Add the white wine and let the pot cook for two minutes, then add the water and lemon zest.

2. Bring the pot to a simmer and add the fish. Cover the pot and let it cook for about 10 minutes or until the fish is done.

3. Meanwhile, cook the spaghetti until underdone by 2-3 minutes. Remove the fish from the sauce, add the spaghetti and toss till coated. Continue to cook the spaghetti in the juices until the pasta is done. The pasta will absorb the fish juices making the dish very flavoursome.

4. Add more lemon zest, and finely chopped parsley, season and serve alongside the fish.

Avariation on the classic pasta al pesto, this can be served warm or cold. The recipe is enough for two.

FOR THE PESTO:

1 avocado

50g of pine nuts

1 clove of garlic

a handful of basil leaves some parsley lemon zest

8 tablespoons of water

8 tablespoons of extravirgin olive oil

YOU WILL ALSO NEED: extra-virgin olive oil juice of half a lemon a splash of white wine 300 g peeled fresh local prawns seasoning, as needed 250g fusilli

1. Use a hand blender or food processor to blend everything together until smooth. Cover the pesto at surface contact with cling film to avoid discolouration while you finish the rest of the recipe.

2. In a pan, heat up the olive oil, add the prawns and turn the heat up high. Sizzle the prawns for a few seconds, add the lemon juice and wine, toss the mixture together and remove the pan from the heat. The prawns need very little heat and will continue to cook when mixed with the hot pasta.

3. Cook the pasta leaving it underdone by a minute. Drain it and reserve about a cupful of cooking water. Add the drained pasta to the pan with prawns. Add some of the cooking water and half of the pesto and cook the mixture for a minute.

4. Turn off the heat, season the pasta to taste. Next, add the remaining pesto, mix well and serve this warm or allow it to cool and serve it cold.

Aclassic summer recipe that can be made in minutes, this is perfect washed down with a glass of chilled, crisp white wine. The ingredients are enough for two people, but you can easily multiply the amounts for a larger party.

YOU WILL NEED:

300g fresh live vongole (clams)

300ml fresh cream

1 lemon

parsley

4 cloves of garlic

½ a glass of white wine

6 tablespoons bread crumbs

extra-virgin olive oil

250g pasta

1. Place the vongole in a small pan and drizzle with the olive oil. Cover the pan and bring it to a simmer. Cook for 2 minutes and turn off the heat. Set the pan aside.

2. In a small pan, heat some extra-virgin olive oil and gently toast the breadcrumbs until they are light brown. Turn off the heat and remove the crumbs from pan. Add the finely grated lemon zest and lots of finely chopped parsley. Set the mixture aside.

3. In a large pan, heat some extravirgin olive oil and very gently cook the garlic, being careful not to let it burn. Add the lemon juice and wine, cook for 2 minutes, then add the cream. Turn off the heat.

4. Cook the pasta until underdone by two minutes, drain it and reserve some of the cooking liquid. Add the pasta to the creamy sauce in the pan and turn on the heat.

5. Add the liquid from the vongole (don’t pour in the very last bit as it might contain some grains of sand). Cook everything together for the two remaining minutes, then add the vongole and fresh black pepper and mix them through.

6. Finally, add the breadcrumb mixture, stir it all well and serve at once.

Thissimple, fresh-tasting dish is packed with flavour. Enjoyed freshly cooked and warm, it’s just as tasty when served cold, which means it’s the perfect makeahead recipe for an informal dinner party. The amounts in this recipe serve two.

YOU WILL NEED:

300g of tuna roe

extra-virgin olive oil

6 cloves of garlic

fresh marjoram, chopped ½ a teaspoon of very finely chopped fresh rosemary a splash of white wine lemon zest

FOR THE ROAST TOMATOES:

12-15 cherry tomatoes

10 cloves of garlic

extra-virgin olive oil

sea salt

1. Halve the tomatoes and place them in a roasting pan. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle them with sea salt.

2. Add the whole cloves of garlic in between the tomatoes and roast them in a hot oven set on 200°C until they start to brown and wrinkle on the sides. This will take about 20 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, scrape the roe off the outer skin. Heat up some extra-virgin olive oil, add the roe, garlic and a teaspoon of fresh marjoram, some lemon zest and the rosemary. Cook for a few minutes, then add some white wine and cook for another two minutes.

4. When the pasta is done, drain it and stir it into the roe mix and add the cooked tomatoes and their juices. Add more olive oil, lemon zest and season to taste.

SERVED BY CHEFS AT Bottarga Gourmet Fish Shop

Owned by Chef Saviour Deguara, Bottarga Gourmet Fish Shop in Balzan offers a unique shopping experience, where you are served by experienced chefs who take pride in serving the freshest fish on the market, which they choose personally. From when he was a child, food was always Saviour’s passion, and he always liked to experiment with different recipes and cooking techniques. He started his studies at the Institute of Tourism Studies in 2001 and from there never looked back on his career in the catering sector. Over the last 20 years Saviour enriched his career as a chef in Malta and abroad at established hotels, restaurants, and embassies.

Running his own business was always a dream, and in 2015, after a motor vehicle accident left him immobilised for months, he had enough time to reflect and develop the idea of opening his own Gourmet Fish Shop. With the

experience he’d gained he felt it was the right time to move onto the next step of his career. Today, while serving fresh fish daily, Saviour also prepares fish gourmet dishes with his team to be appreciated by his customers in the comfort of their home with their loved ones.

From Bottarga's display counters you can choose fish served whole, filleted, smoked, marinated, or stuffed, as well as a selection of other freshly prepared dishes that can be easily cooked at home. Whether you are a fish lover or too busy to prepare a good meal, the chef team at Bottarga will be delighted to assist you, providing a variety of daily specials, fresh pasta and tailor-made menus for any special events using only fresh ingredients. At Bottarga one can find sections with frozen fish items, groceries and a variety of wines to accompany your fish meals. Bottarga also stocks a selection of fine food products which can be indulged in personally or given as the ideal gift for a special occasion.

Bottarga Gourmet Fish Shop, 177A, Balzan Valley, Balzan BZN 1402

Open Tuesday - Friday: 9am - 6pm, Saturday: 9am - 2pm, Sunday - Monday, and Public Holidays: closed. Save time. Shop and pay online. www.bottarga.com.mt

IL GUSTO DELLA SICILIA

Bring home a taste of Sicily with recipes by Michael Diacono, chef patron, Giuseppi’s Bar & Bistro.

Styling and photography are by Brian Grech

Wine recommendation: Andrew Azzopardi, Vintage 82

A recent family trip to Sicily is the inspiration for this month’s theme. Sicilia is a favourite place to visit always as it is so easy, relaxing, ever giving and incredibly beautiful too. Another plus is the food - from the very traditional and simple, where they make their local produce sing, to the younger chefs introducing new dishes with modern methods without forgetting their southern Mediterranean roots.

Tartare di Alalunga con Pistacchio e Arancia

A walk along the short but incredibly pretty lungomare in Donnalucata is a must for any Montalbano fan. The small town is also blessed with a few very good restaurants, some of them sitting practically on the sea. Alalunga is Albacore, a member of the tuna family but with a paler flesh.

Serves 4

Preparation: 20 minutes

Recommended wine: “A dry and crisp Chablis would match prefectly. If you want to up the quality to the Premier Cru Chablis, I think the added depth would definietly enhance the experience.”

YOU WILL NEED:

400g fillet of very fresh alalunga sea salt freshly cracked black pepper fresh mint

1 orange, segmented 60g toasted pistachio nuts fresh parsley leaves extra-virgin olive oil

1. Cut the fish into small cubes of about 1cm and place these into a bowl. Season with sea salt, pepper and chopped mint.

2. Use a mould to shape the fish into 4 portions.

3. Garnish with the segmented oranges and top with chopped, toasted pistachios.

4. Finish with some fresh mint and parsley leaves and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.

Spaghetti con Burro e Alici

Visiting Ragusa Ibla is always a joy, visiting Ragusa Ibla on the feast day of St George is a bit more daunting. After it took us an hour to find a parking spot, this dish helped to soothe frayed nerves - such simplicity with minimal but quality ingredients.

Serves 4 as a main course

Preparation and cooking: 15 minutes

Recommended wine: “I would reach for a bottle of Spanish Txakoli. This refreshing and slightly sparkling, low-alcohol white wine would work perfectly. If you cant get your hands on Txakoli, a Spanish Albariño would be a great alternative.”

YOU WILL NEED:

400g spaghetti

120g butter

80g good quality anchovies in olive oil

150g fresh breadcrumbs

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Throw in the pasta and stir. Meanwhile, place the butter in a large pan and melt it gently over low heat.

2. Drain the anchovies but keep the oil. Chop them roughly and place them in the butter. Stir on low heat using a wooden spoon to break the fish up, but do not allow to fry.

3. Fry the breadcrumbs for a minute or 2 in the anchovy oil to crisp.

4. Two minutes before the pasta is done, drain it and transfer it to the butter and achovy pan. Add a good ladleful of the pasta cooking water. Stir on high heat while mixing to create a creamy sauce.

5. Serve with the fried breadcrumbs on the side for everyone to add their own.

La Burrata alla Norma

Lunch in the shady back streets of Noto after the obligatory passeggiata down the main road has become a sort of ritual. This antipasto is delicious served with bread to mop up all the beautiful sauce.

Serves 4

Preparation and cooking: 60 minutes

Recommended wine: “Both rosé wine and red wine can work here. A refreshing and fruity rosé wine would work with the combination of aubergine and ricotta. Otherwise, a light but earthy Pinot Noir would be my preferred choice. I suggest leavig the Pinot Noir in the ice-bucket for 10 to 15 minutes to keep it cool on a hot summers day.”

YOU WILL NEED:

1 large aubergine, cut into 2cm cubes, skin on vegetable oil to fry

4 mozzarella burrata

80g Ricotta salata, shaved a few fresh basil leaves

sea salt and cracked black pepper extra-virgin olive oil

FOR THE SAUCE :

2kg fresh summer tomatoes (żenguli are perfect) sea salt sugar to taste

1. First, make the tomato sauce. Wash the tomatoes well, halve them and place them into a pot. Put the pot on medium heat, cover it and cook the tomatoes for 45 minutes till soft.

2. Blend the tomatoes with a stick blender then run them through a mouli legume into a clean pot. Season with salt.

3. Taste and add enough sugar to regulate acidity. Cook on low heat for a few minutes.

4. Fry the aubergine cubes in vegetable oil till golden brown then drain on kitchen paper.

5. Place some of the hot tomato sauce into the bottom of 4 deep plates. Place a mozzarella burrata in the middle and then add the still warm aubergine.

6. Garnish with the ricotta salata shavings and basil leaves. Season lightly with sea salt and cracked pepper. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil.

Risotto con Zucca, Gamberi e Menta

After the antipasti in Noto, a small assaggio of pasta and risotto was a must. This dish was served to us with pride by the signora della casa. And rightly so as the flavours were so delicate and pleasing.

Serves 4

Preparation and cooking: 60 minutes

Recommended wine: “Risotto is always the perfect opportunity to bring out the oak-aged white wines you’ve been saving. I would still opt for a relatively young and crisp chardonnay, or oak-aged Chardonnay, but a top quality, oak aged Vermentino would also match perfectly with the dish.”

YOU WILL NEED:

400g summer pumpkin, cut into 1cm dice

500g local fresh shrimp

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 white onion, peeled and diced

320g arborio rice

1 glass dry white wine

1l (approximately) of light shrimp, fish or vegetable stock Salt and pepper a handful fresh mint, chopped

1. Place 200g of the pumpkin in a food processor and pulse a few times to chop finely, but do not turn it into a paste.

2. Peel the shrimps and make a stock with the shells, if you wish.

3. Heat the extra-virgin olive oil in a pot. Add the onion and stir fry to soften, then add the finely chopped pumpkin. Cook for a couple of minutes on medium to high heat.

4. Add the rice and stir it well to coat it, then douse with the white wine and cook to reduce the liquid.

5. Add the remaining pumpkin and seasoning.

6. Start adding warm stock gradually as you stir and keep cooking till rice is al dente. Add the peeled shrimp and chopped mint.

7. To finish, beat in a glug or two of fine extra-virgin olive oil.

Dinner in a little restaurant in Modica Alta was like looking through a window onto where modern Sicilian cooking is going. There is utmost respect for what their land produces, treated with an inventive twist and a true knowledge of flavour profiles. Bravo. The crudo was actually served in a savoury cannolo, but to make things easier to prepare at home I’m using crostini.

Serves 4

Preparation and cooking: 60 minutes, plus resting time

Recommended wine: “I would choose a wine that has a weighty and savoury profile with high acidity to cut through the fat. A complex New Zealand Pinot Noir or Beaujolais Cru would work perfectly or you can even opt for a Loire valley Cabernet Franc such as Chinon. I always suggest cooling these wines for a while in an ice-bucket before serving on a hot summer evening.”

YOU WILL NEED:

20 fresh local red prawns, shelled salt and pepper juice of 1/2 a lemon • parsley a few slices of fresh fennel 8 pieces focaccia, toasted

FOR THE BONE MARROW:

2 marrow bones, split lengthways or into rings sea salt • pepper

1. First, prepare the bone marrow. Heat the oven to 220°C. Place the bones, split side up, on sturdy baking sheets. Season with sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper. Place the baking sheets in the hot oven and roast the bones for anything between 15 and 25 minutes, depending on their size.

2. When it is done, the marrow will be golden brown and bubbling. Now you have to resist the temptation of eating it at once. Leave it to cool, then scoop out the marrow from the bone into a bowl and place it in the fridge to chill.

3. Remove the bone marrow from the fridge. This will have solidified into a butter-like texture.

4. Chop the prawns into small pieces and place them into a mixing bowl. Season lightly and add the lemon juice and chopped parsley.

5. Take a tablespoon of the marrow and place it into a bowl. Beat it to soften before adding to the prawns and mixing it in. Add 1 tablespoon of finely chopped fennel.

6. Use 2 tablespoons to shape quenelles and place them on the warm toasted focaccia.

7. I garnished these with thin slices of fennel, parsley leaves a light drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a few drops of pomegranate molasses for acidity and sweetness.

Crostini con Crudo di Gamberi con Midollo

Peperoni Ca’ Muddica

Sweet sun-ripened peppers simply grilled and skinned are a joy in themselves. This method of preparation just elevates them a bit. They were served slightly warm as part of a huge array of antipasti in Scicli. I can honestly say I loved them.

Serves 6 or 8 as part of an antipasti selection

Preparation and cooking: 60 minutes

Recommended wine: “A refreshing and fruity prosecco always works wonders with an array of antipasti. The acidity will cut through the fattiness and oil, keeping the dish light and easy. “

YOU WILL NEED:

1.5kg sweet red peppers - local and sun ripened are so much better

200g fresh breadcrumbs

extra-virgin olive oil

50g capers, roughly chopped

3 cloves garlic, chopped

salt and pepper

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

basil

1. Heat the oven to 200°C. Place the washed whole peppers on a baking sheet. Roast them for 30 minutes till they are blackened and blistered, then transfer them to a bag, seal it and let the peppers cool.Peel the peppers, remove the stalk and seeds, and cut the peppers into quarters.

2. Toast the breadcrumbs in a dry frying pan to colour them.

3. Add a good glug of extra-virgin olive oil to a large frying pan. Add the chopped capers and garlic.

4. Stir fry for a couple of minutes then add the toasted breadcrumbs and peppers. Season to taste.

5. Add the vinegar and cook off for a couple of minutes on high heat.

6. Transfer to a serving plate. Cool till just warm. Garnish with basil and serve.

Paccheri con Vongole, Limone e Bottarga di Muggine

Let's face it, when we Maltese travel, we do so to get away from ourselves as much as to relax and explore, so Marsamemi is not exactly my top choice as, like Marina di Ragusa, Marsamemi turns into a little Malta in summer. Having said that, the old piazza is rather pretty and it’s a good place to stock up on prodotti ittici

Note: Bottarga di Muggine is the dried roe of Grey Mullet. It is more delicate than Bottarga di Tonno.

Serves 4 as a starter

Preparation and cooking: 30 minutes

Recommended wine: “This intrense dish would need an equally intense and bold wine. A Vermentino di Sardegna would be an ideal choice, as would be a gourmet-style Provence rosé. Bubbles is another winner here, such that any tradtional-method sparkling wine such a Franciacorta, Cava or Champagne would be an ideal pairing.”

YOU WILL NEED:

1kg fresh vongole (clams)

320g paccheri

80ml extra-virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic, chopped juice of 1 lemon

a handful parsley, chopped cracked pepper approximately 40g bottarga di muggine

1. First, wash the clams very well under running water for several minutes . Discard any that are open or broken. Let the rest drain in a colander.

2. Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Throw in the paccheri and stir.

3. Add the extra-virgin olive oil to a deep pot with a lid. Heat it and add the garlic. After a few seconds, add the clams. Stir the mixture, cover the pot and let it cook for about 4 to 5 mins till all the clams are open.

4. Add lemon juice and chopped parsley. Drain the pasta when still al dente and add it to the clams with 1 ladle of the starchy cooking water. Cook for 1 minute together on high heat. Season with pepper.

5. Add some more parsley before serving. Grate the bottarga at table onto each serving.

THAT Summer SENSATION

There's something undeniably magical about savouring a delicious meal while gazing out at stunning sea views during Malta’s balmy summers. It's a time-honoured tradition, deeply rooted in our island heritage, where families and friends come together outdoors to revel in good food, warmer days, beautiful sunshine, and flowing conversation. So, if you're on the hunt for a restaurant that embodies this summer spirit, look no further than Le Bistro, nestled within the 5-star Radisson Blu Resort in St Julian's.

As you step onto the restaurant's outdoor terrace, you'll find yourself in a secluded spot, the perfect backdrop to embark on an unforgettable al fresco dining experience, whether it’s a romantic dinner for two or a lively gathering of friends. The terrace offers a mesmerising corner that looks out onto the rugged coastline below, stretching all the way to the shimmering horizon.

What’s more, the talented kitchen team at Le Bistro has wholeheartedly embraced the spirit of the season, sprinkling in a selection of new and irresistible dishes that proudly showcase the freshest Mediterranean ingredients. Prepare to be captivated by their recently revamped summer menu, where every bite captures the very essence of this blissful season.

The Fish and Shellfish Antipasto Sharing Platter is a celebration of the sea's bounty that sets the stage for your summer dining experience at Le Bistro. With crispy fried calamari, flavourful polpette di neonati, marinated octopus in garlic and basil oil, tuna on toasted bread, and mussels simmered in white wine, this symphony of flavours transports you to the finest coastal shores. Each bite is an explosion of freshness and charm, inviting you to savour the essence of the sea. Dip those mussels in tartar sauce, squeeze that lemon, and drizzle that chilli oil for an irresistible combination that will leave your taste buds singing.

For those seeking to continue their seafood experience, the slow-stewed calamari is another definite highlight. Bursting with flavour, the calamari is so tender and flavourful that it practically melts in your mouth. It’s delicately stuffed with a medley of seafood and marjoram, creating a harmonious blend of tastes. And as if that wasn't

enough, it comes adorned with a bold olive and caper sauce that perfectly complements the subtle flavours of the calamari, resulting in a harmonious union of taste and texture that will leave you longing for more.

Naturally, Le Bistro’s culinary delights go beyond the realm of seafood. Elsewhere on the menu, brace yourself for a feast that spans the culinary spectrum—from comforting pastas and risottos to beautifully cooked meats, poultry, and even gourmet burgers that deliver a satisfying kick. Traditional Maltese cooking staples are also given a delightful creative twist. The spaghetti with rabbit is a glorious marriage of stewed rabbit meat, peas, red wine, thyme, and tomato sauce. It's a dish that pays homage to our Malta’s culinary heritage while injecting it with modern flair. While the local pork tomahawk is flame-grilled to perfection and served with your choice of salsa verde or apple sauce. It’s juicy and succulent, and simply exquisite.

Complementing these gastronomic delights, Le Bistro features an extensive collection of fine wines, carefully selected to enhance the flavours of the menu. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the perfect wine pairing, ensuring an unforgettable dining experience that combines the art of cuisine with the art of wine.

Furthermore, Le Bistro takes pride in being a fantastic restaurant for families, ensuring that every member, no matter how young, feels welcome and pampered. A special children’s menu has been carefully crafted with delightful options that are sure to please even the most discerning young palates and guarantee smiles and satisfied tummies. Parents can relax and savour their meals, knowing that their little ones are being treated to a memorable dining experience as well.

To embark on a summer dining escapade, visit Le Bistro today and immerse yourself in the bold flavours, fresh Mediterranean ingredients, and breathtaking views that define the essence of the season. Diners also enjoy up to five hours of complimentary parking at the Radisson, ensuring a hassle-free experience for all. Le Bistro is open from Monday to Sunday between 12.00 and 22.30. Make your reservation at www.lebistromalta.com and be prepared to create cherished memories that will linger long after the sun sets.

THE

Cisk Tap

Architecture and Interior Design: Openworkstudio and Forward Architects

Project Management: Simonds Farsons Cisk plc

Visual and Graphic Design: BRDN WGN, Malta

Photography: Alex Attard / Ramon Portelli

Photo: Ramon Portelli

Unlike other iconic industrial buildings from the post-war period that have now been lost, the Farsons Brewery continues to thrive. Perched above the former Simonds Farsons Cisk Brewery tower, the Cisk Tap and the underlying The Grist multi-purpose event space have been designed to work in synergy. The project is the result of the collaboration between Openworkstudio and Forward Architects, whose design teams worked with the project management team at Simonds Farsons Cisk, the company’s senior management and its marketing consultants, earning this year’s MASP Award for Interior Architecture Award for Commercial Public Building.

Capitalising on the industrial hardware present in the space, the contemporary transformation preserves the memory of an icon of Maltese heritage while paying homage to the revered Maltese beer that has become a symbol of national spirit and pride and a legacy of the brewery.

The sensitive restoration project derives inspiration from iconic Maltese motifs and cultural paraphernelia. The antiporta and parapett , intrinsic to Malta’s urban environment as transitions between public and private space, were particularly important references. Similarly, the terrazzo facade cladding and floors of shoreside Maltese properties, which seem to resist weathering and afford a change in colour when wet, inspired the architecture and design team to incorporate the material into the space. The layered process of brewing beer inspired the design of a counter consisting of layered rammed concrete in different hues. Wheat harvesting, dry landscapes, and the origins of the Cisk brand, set the tone for the colour story throughout the space.

Lighting plays an important role in architectural design, enhancing aesthetics and flow, mood and ambiance, highlighting architectural features, and promoting functionality and general occupant well-being. Light Design Solutions

advised

on the lighting design to

enhance

the project and supplied the fittings.

Photo: Alex Attard

Photo: Alex Attard

Photo: Alex Attard

VYKO Lights on. Noises O .

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Vyko LFO illuminates the space pleasantly without seeing the light source.

Taking a cue from the mirror-lined walls of village bars, as well as the iconic brown glass beer bottles, the interior of the project plays with glass and light. The surrounding enclosure frames and connects to the view of the skyline between Malta’s current and former capital cities, creating a dynamic experience in daytime which changes dramatically as daylight fades and the subdued lighting gradually takes over.

The bar counter is dressed in the warm ochres of a Maltese sunset and positioned centrally to the space to encourage encounters and conversation. The colour extends onto the terrace and in the furniture around its perimeter. These recognizable elements are designed to stand the test of time and contribute to securing Cisk’s legacy.

The roof top Cisk Tap is designed as the end point of a visitor experience at The Brewhouse but also as an evening venue. It complements the purpose of The Grist space, one floor below, a flexible area designed to host social events, business activities, entertainment and television production. Adaptable partitions reshape the space for events on different scales, working symbiotically with the rooftop bar. Using industrial machinery as its backdrop, the design of The Grist celebrates the brewing process.

In its design, detail and quality, the project is more than an expression of a much-loved brand and its story. It gives the iconic brand a new home within its original headquarters, encouraging the growth of new relationships and stories at events and gatherings, much as flowing beer did in the village bars of old.

Photo: Ramon Portelli

Photo: Alex Attard

Photo: Ramon Portelli

KETTLEDIN

A NEW CONCEPT CAFÉ BISTRO BAR TAKES INSPIRATION FROM INDUSTRIAL HERITAGE

Concept and interior design: Daaa Haus

Photography: David Zammit

The reinvention of iconic building is a daunting undertaking, particularly one that is so closely intertwined with people’s lives that they feel a sense of ownership even in the absence of legal title. Thousands of people worked at the old Farsons Brewery building in Mriehel amid the hissing industrial machinery and the scent of brewing beer. Still thousands more have driven or walked past the post-war industrial building, its familiar curved façade seared, as it were, into public consciousness. Ripping out the heart of a well-known building and replacing it with something entirely new unconnected to the past would rupture a history that demands respect.

Sunshine pours in through the large windows that wrap around the front of the building, filling the interior with natural light. Panta supplied the air condiioning that keeps the internal climate under control.

CIVIL ENGINEERING

With a strong management team, skilled workforce, heavy machinery and a wide range of equipment available, we deliver high-quality outcomes in all our civil engineering projects.

RESTORATION

AX Construction specialises in expert conservation and restoration of Malta’s built heritage, with a focus on traditional techniques and meticulous attention to detail.

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Installed in the iconic bow-windowed area of the recently refurbished The Brewhouse, The Kettles Café Bistro Bar merges architectural languages with contemporary living. The new concept outlet takes its name from the three authentic old copper kettles that were left in situ when the old Farsons Brewery was transformed into the casual co-working, cultural and entertainment destination that earned the 2022 MASP Interior Architecture Award for Commercial & Public Buildings.

Raw concrete walls are a contrasting backdrop to the smooth bespoke curved seating benches which were crafted by Woodware. These were designed to revolve around the copper kettles in natural dark woods, their shape complementing the industrial element.

“Everything revolves around the kettles, from the initial inspiration to the colour palette used and materials utilised in the design to the final result,” says Stefania Mercieca, Senior Interior Architect and partner at DAAA Haus. “The collaboration with local carpenters was a sentimental and crucial element that was incorporated in this project, in recognition of the 1,000 employees the brewery had at its peak which brought the success that we know of today.”

Visitors now emotionally engage with the nostalgic story of a brand that formed part of a pioneering vision and entrepreneurial spirit

The bar, a central focal point, is clad in a bookmatched Calacatta Venato marble, supplied and installed by Halmann Vella. This creates the sense of a massive marble slab. Modern bar equipment from ECB complements the look. The curved ceiling, clad in Italian walnut by Woodware, provides a viewing platform for visitors to the floor above. The eye-catching Esagono Fiore Bianco mosaic flooring by Ston Italia was supplied by Banju Boutique.

The environmental impact of generating new business was at the forefront of the design process: the rejuvenation of an iconic part of Maltese history, reviving the existing industrial elements that were already in place, and reusing an unoccupied area.

The project pushed conceptual boundaries by proposing a fresh idea of how the space can be used to work in harmony with the rest of the building. What was formerly an abandoned area, has been transformed through an original concept that works in the existing space. The brewery marked an important milestone in the rebirth and industrialisation of post-war Malta. The materials used are a nod to classic design tradesmanship that was used in that era.

The main bar sits opposite the main entrance. The bar’s glass units are from ECB, who also supplied the stateof-the-art kitchen installed behind the bar. Accent lighting reflects off the wood clad ceiling, visually echoing the glow of the copper kettles. Industrial styled lighting by Zambelis Lights and Faro from OK Home adds to the visual value of the project throughout, blending functionality with aesthetic appeal.

The collaboration with local carpenters was a sentimental and crucial element

WHATEVER

CHOOSE

DAAA Haus’ design approach pays homage to the industrial revolution era through the use of rough textures, deep tones and mixed media and the preservation of the original brewing kettles and the iconic bow-windowed façade. Raw concrete walls are a contrasting backdrop to the smooth bespoke curved seating benches. These were designed to revolve around the copper kettles, their natural dark woods and fabric and their form and shape complementing the industrial element.

The building’s industrial historyisseamlesslyintegrated into the contemporary look. AX Construction was entrusted withconvertingthisiconicbuilding into a visitors’ attraction. The majority of the works consisted of the restoration of the original in-situ reinforced concrete with which the building was constructed. Other works carried out included the reconstruction of damaged areas and formation of new openings in existing reinforced concrete walls and in existing slabs. The civil works also included the construction of the rooftop bar which can be accessed throughthenewstaircasesandlifts,anewplantenclosuresupportedbyaseparate steel structure, and other steel elements including the Main Entrance Steel Bridge. The Concrete Jungle Factory series of porcelain stoneware flooring by Cotto D'Este from Banju Boutique, is inspired by modern cities, industrial spaces, and great contemporary works. Banju Boutique also supplied Kromatica and Art Nouveau patterned tiles by Equipe.

The design of the chairs echoes the elements of curved seating with special focus on the use of dark woods and hand-woven cane back rest. Planters around the central kettle give the ambiance a fresh appearance. The ceiling, clad in Italian walnut wood, provides a curved viewing platform for visitors to the floor above, accessed through a dramatic curved yellow staircase.

The main bar sits facing the main entrance. In contrast to all the rough textures, the front of the bar was clad in a bookmatched Calacatta Venato marble supplied by Halmann Vella, giving the sense of a mass marble slab. Flooring in the bar area which could not be retained has been repaved with traditional hexagonal mosaic tiling.

Ripping out the heart of a wellknown building and replacing it with something entirely new unconnected to the past would rupture a history that demands respect.

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The original kettles were restored and taken as the central reference and focal point of the design of the café bistro bar, acting as a foil to the other design elements. Visitors to The Kettles Café Bistro Bar now emotionally engage with the nostalgic story of a brand that formed part of a pioneering vision and entrepreneurial spirit that created some of Malta’s most iconic brands and brews from the 1950s.

Latin

FOOD FROM LATIN AMERICA

Often referred to as the “world’s pantry,” the lands and coasts of Latin America yield an almost endless larder of ingredients, and have given rise to globally popular dishes such as arepas, empanadas, sweet breads, tacos, tortillas, tamales, and more.

Along with his sister Malena Martínez, Virgilio Martínez co-founded Mater Iniciativa, the internationally- acclaimed research arm that documents the indigenous foods of Peru and Latin America. These are some of the recipes he has collected.

Food by Virgilio Martínez

Food photography: Jimena Agois

America is one of the world’s most extraordinary geographical regions.

The Latin American Cookbook by Virgilio Martínez is published by Phaidon.

“Virgilio Martínez doesn’t settle with what is already in everyone’s imagination... He looks deeply into the unknown, into the forgotten and rejected to find a different way to embrace his culture.”

MASSIMO BOTTURA

Photo by Gustavo Vivanco

GUACAMOLE Mexico

As long as humans have been eating avocados, there has likely been guacamole. In its basic form it is just mashed with a molcajete y tejolote (Mexican mortar and pestle). In Spanish the name for avocado is aguacate (or palta in Peru and Chile), which is derived from the Nahuatle word ahuacatl , meaning testicle, likely referring to the shape of the fruit (and hopefully not the colour).

The earliest evidence of avocado consumption dates back nearly 10,000 years to Coxcatlan in the present-day state of Puebla, though domestication didn’t occur until a few thousand years later with three different landraces in the highlands of Mexico ( Persea Americana var drymifolia), the highlands of Guatemala (P. Americana var. guatemalensis), and the lowlands of Guatemala (P. Americana var. Americana). From there avocados spread throughout the region and today there are about thirty different varieties.

For most of us in the region, avocados are something that are always around. We’ll mash them and put them on bread or sandwiches, slice them on salads, or just eat them with a spoon with a sprinkle of salt. We’ll buy them ripe, soft but not mushy, so they can be eaten right away, and then unripe, so we’ll have them around when they are ready to eat a few days later.

You can speed up the ripening process a little bit by wrapping them in newspaper, or preserve a half avocado by wrapping it tightly in clingfilm and putting it in the refridgerator.

Preparation: 10 minutes

Serves 4

YOU WILL NEED:

3 ripe avocados

½ red onion, chopped

1 red chile (such as serrano), chopped

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro (coriander)

2 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced juice of 2 limes

1 tablespoon olive oil

salt and ground pepper

Place the avocado flesh in a bowl and mash it with a fork. Add the onion, chile, cilantro (coriander), and tomatoes, and season with the lime juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper.

CURRY FRIED SNAPPER

Pargo frito al curry - Panama

Preparation and cooking: 15 minutes, plus 1 hour marinating

Serves 4

Afro-Antillean communities in Colón, Bocas del Toro, and the El Chorrillo neighbourhood in Panama City prepare fried red snapper with a touch of curry and aji chombo. Serve with Tostones (fried plantains), or Arroz con coco (coconut rice).

Taste&Flair note: Aji Chombo chile peppers are widely used in Panamanian cuisine. They resemble habanero and Scotch bonnet chiles in appearance and intensity.

Plantains resemble bananas in appearance but are starchy and need to be cooked before eating

STREET CART CEVICHE

Ceviche carretillero - Peru

Preparation: 20 minutes

Serves 4

Crude forms of ceviche made of raw fish marinated in the juice of the banana passion fruit ( Passiflora mollissima), also called tumbo or taxo, were seen by Spanish conquistadors on the north coast of Peru in the 1500s, though using acidity to coagulate proteins in seafood is a culinary technique that likely existed in the region long before. Along the Pacific coast of Latin America, from Mexico to Chile, pre-Columbian people used souring agents like fruits and fermented beverages, not to mention salt and chile peppers, to flavour seafood. Thousands of recipes have developed over the ensuing centuries.

YOU WILL NEED:

juice of 1 lime

1 snapper (pargo), about 1.4kg

1 red onion, finely sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 aji chombo chiles, chopped

2 tablespoons curry powder

115g plain flour

vegetable oil, for frying

1. Squeeze the lime juice over the flesh of the fish and cut 4 or 5 slices into the flesh, about 2.5cm apart. Place the fish in a bowl and add the onion, garlic, chiles, and 1 tablespoon of the curry powder. Season with salt and pepper, and leave it in the refridgerator to marinate for 1 hour.

2. Mix the remaining curry powder and flour. Remove the fish from the bowl and roll in the seasoned flour.

3. Heat enough oil for shallowfrying in a frying pan over medium heat. Fry the fish for 3 minutes each side, or until golden and crispy. Remove to a plate lined with paper towels to absorb excess oil.

While ceviche is Peru’s national dish and a form of it has become emblematic of the country, there is no direct evidence that it originated there, but Lima is where the dish underwent its two great transformations – first when the Spanish established the Vice Royalty in Lima and introduced bitter oranges limes, and onions to the region, which were soon incorporated into ceviche; second, when Japanese migrants flocked to Peru to work in coastal plantations. Some became cooks, and in the second half of the century began experimenting with the form of ceviche.

If you ask of the cevicheros what the best fish is to use for ceviche, they’ll tell you the freshest fish. When a fish is removed from water and especially when it is frozen, its cellular structure and flavours change. Paying attention to acidity when making ceviche is important, as it can easily throw off the balance of the dish. Instead of lime, other souring agents can be used, such as grapefruit, oranges, lemons, passion fruit, tomato, tamarillo, and even chicha, a fermented maize beer.

Street cart ceviche is the most straightforward, common form that you will find in Lima’s cevicherias, not to mention in beach shacks and market stalls. It can also be served with mixed seafoods, which vary depending on region and time of year. Shrimp, octopus, squid, and scallops are common. Some like to fry one of the ingredients, usually the squid, which adds a crunchy texture to the dish.

Taste&Flair note: Aji Limo (Limo chile) is commonly used in Peruvian cuisine, particularly ceviche. When cooked, it has a lime-like flavour. It is hotter than jalapeno, but not as hot as habanero. The peppers are long and thin with a waxy appearance. Their colour ranges from green, yellow, orange to red when fully ripe. Cancha Serrana is made from large-kernel corn that is first soaked in water until it puffs up and is then fried.

YOU WILL NEED:

475ml lime juice

1 celery stalk, chopped

½ red onion, sliced

1 garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger

225g fish trimmings

½ aji limo, seeded and chopped

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro (coriander)

680g fresh white fish fillets (such as seabass or sole), cut into 2cm chunks

TO SERVE

cancha serrana (toasted Andean corn kernels)

oiled corn kernels

boiled sweet potato cut into 1 cm slices

Put the lime juice, celery, half of the onion, garlic, ginger and fish trimmings in a blender, with a couple of ice cubes. Blend for 3 minutes on high speed. Strain into a bowl.

Add the aji limo, the remaining onion, and the coriander, then season with salt. In another bowl, pour the mixture over the fish and mix together.

Serve immediately with the cancha serrana, corn kernels, and sweet potato on the side.

CRISPY PORT, RICE, AND BEANS

Chilfrijo - Costa Roca

Preparation and cooking: 50 minutes, plus 40 minutes marinating

Serves 4

In1979, Miguel Cordero, the owner of Cordero’s Bar in Tibás on the outskirts of San José, Costa Rica’s capital city, claims to have been the first to serve chifrijo, which is now found in nearly every cantina in Costa Rica. The name is a combination of the letters of its signature ingredients: chi for chicharrón and frijo for frijoles. The beans are usually frijoles tiernos, or red beans, though others are commonly used. The chicharrón can either be pieces of fried pork or the fried skin. It’s eaten like nachos with tortilla chips and served with chilera , a homemade mixture of pickled vegetables. Over the last couple of decades, the preparations have mutated, and many versions include a base of rice and extra toppings like avocados.

Taste&Flair note:

Refried black beans are made by simmering the beans until tender, then shallow frying them in oil with onion, garlic, green chiles and cumin and then mashing them into a rough paste. Pica de Gallo (“rooster beak”) is traditionally made from chopped tomato, red onion, and serrano peppers, with salt, lime juice, and coriander

YOU WILL NEED:

½ tablespoon salt

1 teaspoon chile powder

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 tablespoon dried oregano

4 tablespoons vegetable oil

225g pork ribs, cut into 2.5cm chunks

225g pork leg, cut into 2.5cm chunks

TO SERVE:

375g cooked white rice

730g refried black beans

375g Pica de Gallo

1 avocado, havled, peeled, pitted, and sliced Lime slices

1 jalapeño pepper, sliced

1. In a bowl, mix the salt, chile powder, thyme, and oregano. Use this mix to season all the pork pieces and let marinate for 40 minutes.

2. Heat the oil in a frying pan over high heat. Add the pork and lower the heat to medium. Sear well for 20 minutes, until the meat becomes golden brown and crispy, flipping once. Remove the cooked pork to a plate lined with paper towels to absorb the excess oil.

3. To serve, layer the rice first in small bowls, then the beans, portk and pico de gallo. Serve with tortillas, and slices of avocado, lime, and jalapeño on the side.

LAMB BARBACOA

Barbacoa de Borrego - Mexico

Preparation: 15 minutes, plus overnight soaking

Cooking: 4 hours 40 minutes

Serves 4

YOU WILL NEED:

3 avocado or agave leaves

1 large potato, peeled and quartered

2 medium carrots, peeled and sliced

1 medium white onion, diced

4 garlic cloves, crushed

2 tablespoons guajillo chile powder

1 tablespoon ancho chile powder

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

generally refers to a process of steaming meat inside of a brick-lined pit. The pit, which is a little more than 3 feet deep, is heated by lighting a wood fire, then once it is reduced to coals, is covered with roasted agave or avocado leaves, and topped with a pot of broth that is topped with a grill and the meat, which is wrapped in the same leaves. The meat is draped with a wet cloth and then covered with soil, plus more hot stones and charcoal, and then left to cook for the next 8 hours or so. In Guanajuato, barbacoa will probably be made with goat, while in northern states like Sonora and Chihuahua you’re more likely to find beef head. In central Mexico, lamb is the preferred meat, and pancita , made from the lamb’s stomach that has been stuffed with viscera, is usually cooked in the pit too. Consommé, made from the broth and drippings, will usually be served as well. The following recipe doesn’t require a pit, just a large pot or slow cooker.

“Barbacoa”

1 tablespoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon dried Mexican oregano

55g dried chickpeas, soaked overnight

1 bone-in lamb shoulder, about 1.8kg

1.5l water

salt

TO SERVE:

corn tortillas

diced white onion

shredded coriander

lime wedges

1. Slightly warm the avocado or agave leaves by placing them in the middle of a dry frying pan over medium heat for 4 minutes on each side. Remove the leaves and set them aside.

2. At the bottom of a steamer pot, place all the ingredients except the lamb, water, half of the onion, and the leaves. Place the steamer grill on top of the ingredients. Salt the lamb and place it on top of the grill, then top that with the leaves. Pour in the water (don’t let it cover the lamb). Cover the pot with aluminium foil and a lid. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 4 hours.

3. Discard the leaves and remove the bone from the lamb. Coarsely shred the meat and place on a platter.

4. For the sauce, skim the fat from the cooking liquid, pour into a pan, and add the remaining half onion. Cook over medium heat for about 20 minutes, adding salt if needed.

5. Mix the shredded lamb with the sauce and serve hot on warm corn tortillas, with a white onion and coriander salad on the side, and lime wedges to squeeze over.

Taste&Flair note: Guajillo chile is mildly to moderately hot and has a sweet fruity taste. The peppers are dark reddishbrown, are long and thin and have a smooth, shiny skin. Ancho chiles are one of the most used chiles in Mexico. The peppers are matured and dried, giving them an earthy flavour. They are mildly to moderately hot. Mexican oregano has a lemony, citrus flavour with liquorice tones.

VALLETTA VISION

A run-down rental has been transformed into

Architect: Mark Peregin, Son Architecture

Photography: Julian Vassallo

an architect’s home

Amid the drive to ‘brand’ Valletta as an entertainment mecca by the cacophony of commercialisation, it is easy to forget that the soul of a city is anchored by the people who live there. Buying into Valletta is now prohibitively expensive, forcing young creatives to look elsewhere. But, for a short while some years ago, there was a tiny window of opportunity where young people with a creative outlook or adventurous spirit could afford to buy a piece of dilapidated history and turn it into their home.

When Mark Peregin of Son Architects bought his current home in Valletta, he wasn’t looking to live there. That was an idea that grew on him as the project evolved. His home is a large, open-plan L-shaped space at the top of a building at the north end of Valletta in an area known as “Il-Biccerija”. Part of a sub-divided post-war building, when Mark Peregin took it on, it had recently been vacated by a troubled soul who left behind a wealth of graphic illustration and a decaying interior that had to be gutted out completely.

“This was the only property I could afford. It’s compact, but it was a way to get onto the property ladder,” Mark says, as he sits in the Valletta offices of Son Architects. “This part of the building is newer than the part on the lower levels. I wanted to keep the timber beams and stone slabs (“xorok”). I found part of the original wrought iron balcony in the common area of the building, which I had restored and reinstalled. It had been removed from its original location and replaced with an aluminium balcony. I retained and restored the timber apertures. Everything else was gutted out. The floor tiles were cracked and the floor had to be raised to run services through. I wanted to cleanse the space of its heavy energy left by the previous tenant, and had to peel all his sketches and scribbles off the walls.”

The owner wanted a minimal space with natural textures and materials. Contemporary furniture with clean lines completes the look. FORM supplied the sofa and dining table in the living area. FORM also supplied the bed for the bedroom.

“I WANTED THIS SMALLER SPACE TO BE MORE INTIMATE AND PRIVATE COMPARED TO THE OPENNESS OF THE REST OF THE APARTMENT.”

The concept for the interior was to strip the property down to its bare essentials and add functional elements required for living. Mark wanted to keep a minimal space with natural textures, using natural materials like the engineered oak flooring that has been installed, maximising natural light, and including plenty of storage so that everything is tucked away with no visible clutter and mess, creating a calming and organised ambiance. The property is north-east facing and enjoys pleasant morning light. It has access to an open roof, shared with other occupants of the building – fortunately, architects themselves who also appreciate the privilege of living in Malta’s capital city.

Mark’s design involved removing all the interior walls to create a big open L-shaped space. The living, kitchen, and dining area are just inside the entrance and the bedroom was set at the end, partitioned off by bespoke joinery. Personal touches give the place warmth and a sense of family history, like the desk which was his mother’s work desk at her own father’s company many years ago, and which Mark had restored.

The bathroom “cube” is effectively a piece of furniture installed to separate the living and bedroom spaces. Its ceiling is lower than the property’s original roof so the original ceiling beams are still visible. Storage space is hidden behind the bathroom mirror, and a washing machine tucked into the partitioned area on the side of the bathroom shower. A custom-built bathroom sink in grey quartz and microcement plastered floors, walls and ceiling give the space a clean, uncluttered look. “I wanted to use the same material for the walls, door, floor and ceiling of the bathroom cube for this to read as a completely different space to the rest of the apartment,” Mark says. “Given that this was a wet room with an open shower I chose a material that can withstand moisture and be applied to all surfaces. I also wanted this smaller space to be more intimate and private compared to the openness of the rest of the apartment.” The bedroom partition door is a full height large sliding partition clad in mirror. There is a hidden library that can be pulled back behind the bespoke wardrobe.

“I WANTED TO CLEANSE THE SPACE OF ITS HEAVY ENERGY LEFT BY THE PREVIOUS TENANT”

The flat is on the top floor of its building and faces north-east, enjoying pleasant morning light. Natural oak flooring creates a sense of warmth, giving the space a homely and welcoming feel.

Mark is fairly tall and an enthusiastic cook who likes to entertain friends, so a lot of thought went into designing the kitchen itself. The space was not large enough to install a kitchen island, which would allow the resident cook to socialise while preparing dinner for friends, and because the kitchen is in an open space, Mark did not want it to look too much like a kitchen: “I had to set the kitchen against the back wall and wanted two simple, clean volumes. The cupboards are deeper than in a standard kitchen, which gave me more storage. The top units are bigger than standard and I had mirrors placed on the cupboard doors to have a visual connection when I have guests or if there’s a projection on the opposite wall.” An innovative element is the drain behind the kitchen sink. It’s solid teak, which is water resistant, and inset, which maintains the clean lines of the lower volume.

Designing the space was an organic process, Mark says: “I knew I needed a kitchen a bathroom, but I didn’t know how much storage we needed. I first moved into the property with my girlfriend at the time who is less of a minimalist than I am and after living there for a few months I came to terms with the amount of wardrobe space she needed. Cupboards are full height, which allows us to store clothes for different seasons.” There were no major obstacles in the design process and challenges only emerged in the perennial problem of project management.

“As a young architect, it was a big learning experience to be my own client,” Mark says. “It made me more realistic about working with a budget and expected timescales. Originally, I intended this to be a rental property but when I finished it, I got excited about it and moved in and have lived there ever since. It started off as a rental but I turned it into a home and it’s been very practical and comfortable to live in. It’s easy to maintain and everything’s close by, which makes it very efficient. The space is versatile. We now need to fit in a baby pod because the family is growing.” That takes the project of rehabilitating Valletta full circle – as the next generation of new residents is born into the city.

“THIS WAS THE ONLY PROPERTY I COULD AFFORD. IT’S COMPACT, BUT IT WAS A WAY TO GET ONTO THE PROPERTY LADDER.”

GĦALLIS at Palazzo Mora

An exhibition currently on show in Venice presents an alternative approach to heritage preservation and the protection of historic assets, moving away from their conservation as relics and towards activating their evolving use.

WhenTorri tal-Għallis was built in 1658 by Grandmaster Martin De Redin of the Knights of the Order of St John, it was conceived as one in a string of defence towers encircling the Maltese islands’ perimeter. Like many of the towers built within this fortification network, Torri talGħallis, sited along the north-eastern shore of Malta, was originally designed to a square plan, with one turret to its roof and two narrow openings at each of its two floors – one facing west on the first floor, the other looking eastwards on the ground floor. Its native use was that of defence, its thick walls encasing batteries of garrisons and artillery. Over time, defence transitioned to surveillance and eventually to disuse and many of the towers within the network are now vacant.

GĦALLIS, a retrofit proposal for the 17th century Torri tal-Għallis, forms part of the European Cultural Centre's show, Time, Space, Existence, which is taking place in Venice alongside the Biennale. Time, Space, Existence features completed and ongoing projects, innovative proposals, and utopian dreams of architectural expressions. It offers a survey of ideas brewing at a different level to the main show, giving emerging practices a platform to show their work in proximity to the Biennale itself.

In bringing GĦALLIS to Venice, the project team led by Valentino Architects aims to position the design as a prompt for exploration around flexible retrofit as a counterpoint to newbuild development. GĦALLIS presents an alternative approach to heritage preservation and the protection of historic assets, moving away from their conservation as relics and towards activating their evolving use.

The exhibition at Venice’s Palazzo Mora isolates nine fragments of Għallis tower’s existing fabric and shows them in relationship with new architectural elements. In so doing, it detaches the tower from the rigid confines of time and space, encouraging instead an observation of evolving use.

“Our intention is to introduce new ideas around heritage retrofit, although the tower has several historical tangents we touch upon and that are awakened through the design,” says Sandro Valentino. “The retrofit proposal is composed of a series of adaptable architectural elements, envisioned as flexible structures that can each be inserted into the fort reversibly, with no permanent fixings to the original building fabric. The elements have been designed to be lightweight, translucent, and illuminable, with moving parts that allow for different uses and activities while open. While

Project team: Valentino Architects in collaboration with Sumaya Ben Saad, Matthew Farrugia, Luca Zarb, Tara Žikić Curated by Ann Dingli • Photography: Joanna Demarco, Federico Vespignani, Sumaya Ben Saad, Luca Zarb • Renders: Julian Vassallo

Photo: Sumaya Ben Saad Render: Julian Vassallo

closed, the elements stand as motionless light-boxes that glow within the tower, releasing more internal footprint for additional uses, such as space for making or exhibiting art.”

The elements fall into three groups: primary, auxiliary and connecting. With the first group of elements, two murphy beds fold alongside cabinetry to support rest and personal effects. The second group contains an alcoved shower and mirrored bathroom on the first floor, and a narrow bathroom booth perpendicular to the entrance on the ground floor. The connecting elements bring the tower’s historic functions back to its present, highlighting past access structures and its legacy of surveillance by introducing a retractable external staircase and interior periscope.

The double-height periscope offers visual accessibility from the ground to the upper floor, while the staircase joins the tower’s upper tier with the ground floor as temporary ladders would have when the tower was originally built. When closed, the staircase honours the stoicism of the fortification, signposting its former function as a minicitadel of impenetrability.

GĦALLIS is about flexible retrofit design, future adaptability, and the activation of heritage assets versus their treatment as relics. It makes a statement on deprogramming architecture, moving away from functional rigidity to allow buildings and spaces to perform in more ways than one.

“The aim of the exhibition is to explore how historic, fortified structures like Torri tal-Għallis might be creatively adapted, as well as their potential for becoming more accessible to wider public use,” says Ann Dingli, who curated the exhibition. “As such, the new architectural elements’ functional flexibility is driven by an end-goal of inclusiveness, resisting prescribed functions that might preclude the tower from being inhabited by a specific user or user group.

GĦALLIS is a collaboration between Valentino Architects, architecture students Sumaya Ben Saad, Matthew Farrugia, Luca Zarb, Tara Žikić, and Ann Dingli as curator. It is open at Palazzo Mora in Venice until the end of November, as part of the European Cultural Centre (ECC)’s showcase, TIME SPACE EXISTENCE, alongside the Venice Biennale. The exhibition is sponsored by Salini Resort and Claret Group; RLAUTIER; Bathroom Design; Onepercent; Bonavia Bros. Co. Ltd.; Ventura; Elektra; Schranz Ltd.; Cultural Heritage Projects Ltd.; DARI.

About the exhibition team

The exhibition team for GĦALLIS is made up of practitioners and architectural students and was born out of a university module titled “Understanding Interior Space”, part of the first year M. Arch course at the University of Malta, led by Sandro Valentino. The module covered contextual learning through invited lectures, a research phase driven by students, and a final design phase that included a project brief, site, and client. Intending to blend academic and practical learning, the module offers students authentic experience of work in practice.

This deviates from the common pattern in architectural training in Malta, which is often detached from direct practice. The design project for Torri tal-Għallis focused on revealing to students more frankly the parameters that shape practice. This experience has been extended into the creation of the GĦALLIS exhibition, which has been developed by a multi-disciplinary team through a process that wholly blends research and design.

Photo: Federico Vespignani Photo: Joanna Demarco

Photo: Federico Vespignani

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