Taste & Flair February 2021 by The Malta Independent

ISSUE 136 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

FEBRUARY 2021

FEBRUARY 2021 ISSUE 136

Feed your imagination

Feasting and foraging, wining and dining, interiors and collecting

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T&F EDITORIAL Claire Borg’s Crown Daisy and Lemon Cake. See feature starting on page 28. Photograph: Claire Borg

Welcome B

almy February days are an early sign that spring is not too far away, and bring in the first of seasonal crops. Artichokes are versatile, and plentiful right now. They are also one of Michael Diacono’s favourite ingredients. In this issue, he serves up a medley of dishes that are easy and fun to prepare, and delicious served with fresh, warm bread and paired with the right wines. Andrew Azzopardi has some sage advice on what to drink with those seasonal dishes, and how to choose quality wines for every day drinking. (Spoiler alert: the secret’s in the grape variety.) Botanist Edwin Lanfranco introduced Claire Borg to the world of foraging and edible wild plants. That inspired creative experimentation in her kitchen with interesting and tasty results. Seville oranges are much overlooked as a cooking ingredient, and often left unharvested. But there’s lots more you can do with them than simply turn them into marmalade. Mandy, Amy, and Megan Mallia turned a basketful of Seville oranges into spread of bakes and pastries flavoured with nostalgia, and an infusion that can be enjoyed all year round, or gifted to family and friends. In our interiors section, we take a closer look at the past year’s cultural phenomenon – the bookshelf backdrop. If we are what we read, what do our shelves say about us? There’s a peek inside Valletta interiors, and a visit to a dreamy townhouse with a fabulous painted ceiling. We hope you enjoy this issue as much as we enjoyed bringing it to you. If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.

Corinne

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 or 21 345 888 ext 123 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the written prior agreement of the publisher. Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

The first buds of the Judas tree will emerge in the coming weeks, heralding the arrival of spring.

ISSUE 136 FEBRUARY 2021

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T&F CONTENTS

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p54

CONTENTS

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Glorious globe artichokes Michael Diacono’s seasonal dishes

Bottles of flavour Seville orange infused gin

Foraging and feasting Claire Borg’s creative ways with wild greens

Sweet nostalgia Mandy and Amy Mallia's Homely bakes and pastries

Storecupboard ‘sushi’ Megan and Amy Mallia’s food for fun

Contemporary classic Iggy Fenech visits a reinvented townhouse

Shelf-expression What collecting says about us

Valletta pied-a-terre Two maisonettes get a makeover

Easy drinking Andrew Azzopardi on wine

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T&F IN SEASON

GORGEOUS

GLOBE ARTICHOKES Artichokes are plentiful and in season right now. Michael Diacono, chef patron at Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro, whips up a medley of dishes that are easy and fun to prepare and delicious served with heaps of bread and good wine. Wine recommendation: Andrew Azzopardi Styling and photography: Brian Grech

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IN SEASON T&F

“One of my favourite ingredients to use when they are in season, which is right now.”

The globe artichoke is a strange vegetable – flower bud actually – which has been cultivated in the Mediterranean for ages. It was described by Pliny in 77 AD as one of earth’s monstrosities. Cousin to the thistle, it is thought that the artichoke was ‘domesticated’ about 1000 years BC, making it one of the oldest vegetables known to us. The artichoke is rich in fibre, low in fat and loaded with vitamins and minerals. It is also one of my favourite ingredients to use when they are in season, which is right now. ISSUE 136 FEBRUARY 2021

T&F IN SEASON

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IN SEASON T&F

GRILLED WHOLE GLOBE ARTICHOKES

Serves 4 as a starter Cooking time 20 minutes Recommended wine: A bone-dry Spanish Txakoli or Fino sherry YOU WILL NEED:

4 whole globe artichokes 8 cloves garlic 1 handful parsley extra virgin olive oil salt and pepper

1. Leave the artichokes whole and

just cut off the spiny tips of the bracts. Bang the artichokes upside down on a hard surface to loosen and slightly spread the bracts then wash them in plenty of water. Leave them to drain upside down.

The best time to prepare this recipe is at the beginning of the season when artichokes are still extremely tender – ‘L-ewwel qata’, the first harvest. To grill later in the season, it is best to boil the whole artichokes first.

2. Peel and chop the garlic and wash and chop the parsley. Mix the garlic and parsley together in a large bowl and season. Share out this mix between the artichokes, pushing it down between the bracts. Drizzle with a good amount of extra virgin olive oil. 3. Heat up the grill or BBQ then simply place the artichokes to cook over the coals. Turn them occasionally and baste them with extra virgin olive oil. Let them cook for about 20 minutes. 4. To serve, discard the burnt outer bracts and drizzle the grilled artichokes with olive oil, cracked pepper and sea salt flakes.

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T&F IN SEASON

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking time: 90 minutes Recommended wine: Northern Rhône Valley Viogniers or Australian Viogniers YOU WILL NEED:

4 large globe artichokes 200g fresh breadcrumbs 50g grated pecorino or dried ġbejniet 100g prosciutto crudo, chopped 200g ricotta (use sheep’s milk ricotta, if available) parsley finely chopped. salt and pepper 2 eggs, lightly beaten extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion 2 cloves garlic 12 cherry tomatoes, halved a few basil leaves

1. Dry-fry 100g of the breadcrumbs till lightly toasted. Transfer them to a mixing bowl and let them cool down. 2. Remove the tough outer bracts from the artichokes

and cut off the spiny tips. Wash the artichokes well and let them drain upside down. Beat them lightly on a table to separate the bracts.

3. Add the pecorino, prosciutto, ricotta and parsley to the toasted breadcrumbs. Use a wooden spoon to mix them well. Season lightly (be careful with the salt). Divide the mixture between the artichokes, pressing it down between the bracts to compact the stuffing. 4. lace the artichokes into a dish where they fit upright snugly. Pour the beaten eggs gradually over the artichokes, waiting for them to seep down before adding more, then press the remaining untoasted breadcrumbs over the tops to form a plug. Transfer the dish to the fridge and leave it there for 1 hour. 5. Heat a good glug of extra virgin olive oil in a large pot

big enough to hold the 4 artichokes. Carefully fry the artichokes upside down to seal and colour the tops then turn over right side up. Add the chopped onions and garlic and cook for 2 minutes before adding the cherry tomatoes. 6. Add enough water to reach a quarter of the way up

the artichokes, and bring the pan to the boil. Season again, lower the heat, cover the pot and let it simmer for 45 minutes till the vegetables are tender. 7. Add fresh basil before serving with

heaps of fresh Maltese bread.

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CHEESE STUFFED ARTICHOKES This is a different approach to stuffing artichokes, a bit richer than the traditional recipe but all the better for it.

IN SEASON T&F

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T&F IN SEASON

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IN SEASON T&F

CARCIOFI AGLI AGRUMI Artichoke hearts simmered in a light, sweet and sour citrus sauce. This can be served as a starter, as part of an antipasto selection, or as a side dish with some grilled fish. The discarded bracts may be boiled till tender then scraped and used in a risotto made with the artichoke broth.

Serves 6 as a starter Preparation and cooking time: 60 minutes Recommended wine: Italian or Spanish style rosé YOU WILL NEED:

6 globe artichokes juice of 3 Maltese oranges juice of 3 Maltese lemons ½ glass white wine vinegar 3 tablespoon sugar 50g capers 100g toasted and crunchy breadcrumbs 6 anchovies salt and pepper extra virgin olive oil

1. For this recipe we only need the

hearts of the artichoke so remove all the bracts. Remove the furry choke and peel the stem part. Keep the hearts in acidulated water till needed.

2. Heat some extra virgin olive oil in a large pan. Place the hearts stem up in the pan. Add the orange and lemon juices and season with salt and pepper. Cover the pan and let it simmer gently for about 30 minutes. 3. Remove the lid, raise the heat and add the vinegar and sugar. Reduce the liquid quickly till it’s slightly thickened and syrupy. 4. Transfer the artichokes to a serving plate. Add the capers and top with the toasted breadcrumbs and anchovies. Serve at room temperature.

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T&F IN SEASON

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IN SEASON T&F

‘FOCACCIA’ WITH ARTICHOKES This is a rustic and wholesome bread, best served warm with a bowl of very good quality extra virgin olive oil and sea salt flakes.

Serves 6 Preparation, proving and cooking time: 105 minutes Recommended wine: Chianti Classico or Chianti Rùfina DOCG YOU WILL NEED:

500g strong plain flour 2 teaspoons salt 11g instant yeast 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 300ml water 4-6 globe artichoke hearts “sott’ olio” fresh thyme 1 tablespoon sesame seeds

1. Sift the flour into the bowl of

an electrical mi er and attach the dough hook to the machine.

2. Add the salt and yeast to the flour and mi them in. Add the e tra virgin olive oil and, with the machine working on low speed, pour in the water. 3. ork the dough for minutes. over the bowl with cling film and leave it to prove in a warm place for hour. 4. reheat the oven to

° . Transfer the dough to a round, lightly oiled metal oven dish. ush the artichoke hearts into the dough, and sprinkle the dough with thyme leaves and sesame seeds. rizzle with e tra virgin olive oil and let the dough stand for minutes.

5. Bake the dough in a preheated

oven for appro imately minutes till risen and golden. Serve warm.

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T&F IN SEASON

BREADED AND FRIED ARTICHOKE STEMS Nothing goes to waste in my kitchen and I always use artichoke stems in one way or another. This is a fun way to serve them with a dipping sauce before a meal. Servings: 1 long stem will produce 3 pieces Preparation and cooking time: 120 minutes Recommended wine: Austrian Grüner Veltline YOU WILL NEED:

as many artichoke stems as you have available flour eggs, lightly beaten. panko breadcrumbs olive oil to deep fry

1. Peel the stems exposing and using

just the white part. Cut the stems into reasonable lengths and keep them in the fridge in water acidulated with lemon juice for 1 hour to crisp up.

2. oll the cut stems in flour, then egg and finally panko breadcrumbs, and place them on kitchen paper. 3. eat a good quantity of clean olive oil in a deep pot and deep fry the breaded stems for a few minutes till golden brown and crunchy. rain on kitchen paper to remove the e cess oil. 4. Serve warm with any dipping sauce of your choice. or this photoshoot, I prepared mayonnaise to which I mi ed in some nduja.

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IN SEASON T&F

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T&F IN SEASON

FRITTURI TAL-QAQOĊĊ Serves 6 Prep and cooking time: 60 minutes Recommended wine: Prosecco DOCG or Italian Vermentino YOU WILL NEED:

6 globe artichokes 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1 handful of parsley, finely chopped salt and pepper olive oil 5 eggs, lightly beaten 100g grated Parmesan TO SERVE:

Mozzarella di bufala burrata

1. Clean the artichokes completely

as we need just the hearts for this recipe. (Save the bracts for boiling and scraping to use in a risotto with the artichoke broth). Slice the artichoke hearts thinly and put them in acidulated water. 2. Heat some olive oil in a large pan. Add the garlic and cook it till golden but be careful not to let it burn. Add the drained, sliced artichokes and season. Cook the hearts till they are tender, then add the chopped parsley. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and let it cool. 3. Add the cheese to the eggs, season

lightly, then stir the mixture into the cooled artichokes. Heat olive oil in a non-stick pan and fry ladles of the mixture for a few minutes before turning them over and cooking them till they turn golden. 4. Keep the fritters warm in the oven till all the mixture is done. I served these with balls of mozzarella di bufala burrata.

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This is one of the simplest ways to prepare artichokes, yet one of the most delicious too.

IN SEASON T&F

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T&F IN SEASON

GLOBE ARTICHOKE ‘BIANCHETTA’ This is a very delicate preparation for this quite rustic vegetable. It may be served with some baguette as a great vegetarian main course or as an accompaniment to grilled quail.

Serves 4 Preparation and cooking time: 90 minutes Recommended wine: Vermentino di Sardignia YOU WILL NEED:

8 globe artichokes 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 50g butter 2 cloves garlic a good handful of parsley, chopped a few sage leaves salt and pepper 1 glass dry white wine juice of 1 Maltese lemon 6 egg yolks GARNISH:

Deep fried, breaded fresh sage leaves

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1. Clean the globe artichokes well. We will be using

the hearts only, so remove all the bracts and save them for boiling and scraping. Cut the hearts into quarters and put them in acidulated water.

2. Heat the olive oil and butter in a pot. Add the garlic and stir fry for a few seconds before adding the drained artichoke quarters. Season, add the herbs and cook on high heat for a few minutes before dousing with the wine. Let the wine evaporate, then cover the pot and let it simmer gently for 15 minutes. The artichokes should be cooked through but still retain a slight bite. 3. Add the lemon juice. Beat the egg yolks in a small bowl with 1 tablespoon of water. On a very low heat, and while stirring continuously, pour the egg yolks into the pot. Cook for just a minute or two to thicken the sauce. It is very important to stir constantly and cook on a low heat. 4. Serve these garnished deep fried, breaded fresh sage leaves. n

T&F COUNTRY LIFE

Chenopodiastrum murale Nettle-leaved goosefoot; GĦOBBEJRA

Urtica membranacea & Urtica urens Stinging nettle; ĦURRIEQ

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Beta maritima Sea beet; SELQ SALVAĠĠ

Glebionis coronaria Crown daisy; LELLUX, ŻIGLAND

COUNTRY LIFE T&F

Forager’s Once a way of life and a means of survival, wild edibles can now be enjoyed at leisure. Claire Borg’s pick of foraged wild greens will bring an early taste of spring into a still wintry kitchen. The photos are hers too.

Feast F

or many years, wild plants were just weeds to me until I discovered wild spinach and borage, fennel and nettles, asparagus and wild chamomile. More recently I had the pleasure of meeting the botanist and ecologist Dr. Edwin Lanfranco who introduced me to the wonderful world of wild plants that grow all over the Maltese islands. We are very fortunate to have plenty to forage all year round. These recipes have been created using four common, easy to find and easy to recognise wild plants which grow plentifully all over the Maltese country side during late autumn, winter and early spring. I am deeply grateful to Dr. Lanfranco for sharing his immense knowledge with me. These recipes are from my kitchen, but, in a sense, they are also his. I hope you enjoy them.

Do not over pick from the same area and do not rip out whole plants. I am deeply grateful to Dr. Lanfranco for sharing his immense knowledge with me.

Forage, feast and be grateful

1 2 3 4 5

Make sure you know your plants. Some plants are poisonous. If in doubt, leave it out. Do not forage from side roads. Choose ‘clean’ spots, away from busy roads. Do not trespass on private property.

Use proper equipment while foraging. Use good scissors or clippers and protective gloves, and don’t forget to take a bag for collecting. Respect your surroundings and what is on offer. Do not over pick from the same area and do not rip out whole plants. There is plenty for everyone, and the only way to make sure it remains that way is to take a little and leave a lot.

Abide by the law. Some plants, like wild thyme, are protected species and should not be picked.

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T&F COUNTRY LIFE

Salmon Soup with Dill and NettleLeaved Goosefoot Serves 4-5

YOU WILL NEED

300g wild salmon fillet (skin removed) 1 large potato 2 carrots 1 onion some butter ½ litre boiling water 1 litre hot chicken or vegetable 1 handful nettle-leaved goosefoot 1 handful fresh dill

1. ook the finely chopped onion

in some butter until it softens. Add the diced carrot, the diced potato and half of the dill, then pour in the boiling water and hot stock.

2. et the pan simmer for minutes. hen the potato is cooked through, add the diced salmon, the finely chopped goosefoot and the remaining dill. over the pan and let it simmer for to minutes. 3. Season to taste and serve piping hot with buttered crusty bread.

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COUNTRY LIFE T&F

QUICK PESTO WITH NETTLE-LEAVED GOOSEFOOT Serve 3-4 1 generous handful of nettle-leaved goosefoot 1 punnet (or handful) of fresh basil leaves, washed and patted dry 100g pine nuts 6 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese 3 pieces fresh garlic olive oil 500g pasta of your choice

1. Wash the greens and

transfer them to a dry pan without removing the excess water. Cook them rapidly until they wilt slightly (around one minute) and set aside to cool. Finely chop the cooled greens and place them in a bowl.

2. Drizzle some olive oil into the pan and very quickly cook the chopped garlic and pine nuts, taking care not to let them burn. Add the mixture to the bowl, then add all the basil leaves and some more olive oil and stir everything together. 3. Use a hand blender or food processor to blend the mixture until smooth. If it is still warm, let it cool completely and then add the cheese and a drizzle more oil to smoothen the paste. 4. Bring a pan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta according to the packet instructions. Add half a ladle of cooking water to the pesto to loosen the mixture, then add the pasta and toss it well. 5. Serve warm or cold with

chilli flakes, more cheese and pine nuts for sprinkling.

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T&F COUNTRY LIFE

Potato Cakes with NettleLeaved Goosefoot and Mushrooms Makes 6

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COUNTRY LIFE T&F

I prefer to chill these for at least an hour before I cook them. You can also prepare them a day ahead and cook them just before serving time. YOU WILL NEED

1 handful of nettle-leaved goosefoot 4 large potatoes 5 mushrooms 2 pieces of fresh garlic olive oil 1 knob of butter some milk 1 pinch of nutmeg TO FINISH

2 eggs flour breadcrumbs butter olive oil

1. Peel and boil the potatoes until soft.

Drain them, add some milk, season to taste, add the nutmeg and the butter and mash the potatoes until smooth and well mixed. Set the pan aside to cool.

2. Wash the greens and transfer them to a dry

pan without removing the excess water. Cook the greens rapidly for a minute until they wilt slightly. Remove the pan from the heat, let the greens cool and then chop them finely.

3. Heat a little olive oil in a pan and cook the finely chopped mushrooms with the garlic until the mushrooms soften. Add the chopped greens, mix well and season to taste. 4. To make the patties, take some mashed potato and shape it into a ball. Make a dent in the centre and fill it with the mushroom mixture. Top with a little more mashed potato and pat it down into the shape of a patty. Place the patty on a lined baking tray. Repeat the process until you use up all the potato and filling, and put the tray into the fridge. Chill the patties for at least one hour. 5. To finish cooking, dip the chilled

patties first in flour, then beaten egg and then breadcrumbs. Shallow fry them in melted butter and a little oil till golden on both sides. Serve warm. ISSUE 136 FEBRUARY 2021

T&F COUNTRY LIFE

Sea Beet Cake

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COUNTRY LIFE T&F

YOU WILL NEED

100g of steamed sea beet leaves 3 eggs 250g sugar 250g flour 1 vanilla pod, scraped juice of half a lemon 150g vanilla yoghurt 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon 150ml vegetable oil

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C

(170°C, if fan-operated)

2. Using a food processor, blend together the oil, eggs, yoghurt, fresh vanilla seeds, lemon juice and cooked leaves until smooth. 3. Sift the flour, baking powder and bicarbonate of soda into a large bowl. Add the sugar and cinnamon, and mix everything together.

4. old the green wet mi into the dry mi until they are evenly combined. Transfer the batter into a buttered and floured tin and bake in a preheated oven for 40 to 45 minutes or until done. 5. Remove the baking tin from the oven and

let it cool for 10 minutes. Gently remove the cake from the tin, transfer it to a wire rack and let it cool down completely.

6. Transfer the cake to a presentation dish and

dust it with icing sugar before serving.

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T&F COUNTRY LIFE

Risotto with Nettles, Peas and Lemon Serves 2

YOU WILL NEED:

200g Carnaroli rice 100ml white wine ½ a chicken stock cube 4 spring onions 2 cloves of garlic 100g of frozen peas 1 tablespoon lemon zest finely grated 2 tablespoons butter 60g parmesan cheese grated FOR THE STOCK

1 large handful of nettle leaves 600ml water 1 bay leaf 1 celery stick 1 small onion 1 carrot

1. Bring 600 ml of water

to the boil, and add the roughly chopped onion, carrot, celery stick and bay leaf. Cover the pan and let it boil for 20 minutes.

2. Remove and discard the bay leaf, then add the nettle leaves and the stock cube, stir, cover the pan and turn off the heat. 3. Using a stick blender, process the mixture until smooth. This light soup will be used as stock for the risotto. 4. Saut the finely chopped spring onions in half the butter until soft. Add the rice and cook together for a minute, then add the lemon zest and the white wine and keep stirring until the wine evaporates. 5. Add the peas, stir, then add

the stock a little at a time, while stirring continuously until the liquid is absorbed. Keep adding the stock gradually and stirring till most of it is absorbed.

6. After adding the last bit of

stock, stir the mixture and turn off the heat while the risotto is still a bit loose. Add the remaining butter and parmesan cheese and a good helping of black pepper, beat in the cheese and butter well and serve immediately.

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T&F COUNTRY LIFE

Crown Daisy and Lemon Cake

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COUNTRY LIFE T&F

YOU WILL NEED:

100g of steamed crown daisy greens 2 eggs 120g Greek yoghurt 120g vegetable oil zest of 1 lemon 200g sugar 200g flour 2 teaspoons baking powder FOR THE DRIZZLE

lemon juice icing sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C

(170°C, if fan-operated).

2. Sift the flour and baking powder into a large bowl and stir in the sugar and lemon zest. Set the dry mi ture aside. 3. In another bowl, mi the greens, yoghurt, eggs and oil and blend together until smooth. our the wet mi ture into the dry mi and fold it in until well combined and smooth.

4. our the batter into a buttered and floured cake tin and bake in a hot oven for around to minutes, or until done. et the cake cool in the tin for the first minutes, then transfer it to a wire rack to cool down completely. 5. Mi icing sugar with lemon juice

until it dissolves and drizzle it over the warm cake. et the cake cool down, then dust it with icing sugar just before serving. n

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T&F IMPROVISATION

STORECUPBOARD ‘SUSHI’

D ,

Food, styling, and photography: Amy and Megan Mallia

his is our take on sushi – an experiment born out of a combination of pandemic boredom and a craving for sushi on a very wet weekend. We used ingredients we had at home and a few more from our neighbourhood store, compromising on the filling, because even the best stocked local grocery can’t supply fresh tuna and crabmeat on demand. Nori (dried seaweed sheets), mirin (sweet Japanese rice wine , rice vinegar, soy sauce and sesame oil, black and white sesame seeds, and sriracha (spicy chilli sauce store easily at

ISSUE 136 FEBRUARY 2021

home, and are worth stocking up on for evenings like these. They’re readily available in the Asian section of most large supermarkets and some local mini markets The method we give here is for the basic maki rolls and inside out rolls. Mi and match the fillings according to taste, and whatever you have available. ur favourite – after the spicy tuna mi was a combination of avocado, smoked salmon and hiladelphia cheese. Sushi is best consumed the same day it is made, though we did eat our leftovers for lunch the ne t day.

IMPROVISATION T&F

Serves 4-6 The yield is around 10 sushi “logs”, each of which can each be cut into 6-8 pieces. Preparation: 90 minutes Cooking: around 20 minutes for the rice, depending on the type you use YOU WILL NEED

10 sheets of nori 250g medium-grain or short-grain white rice 250g wholegrain rice (we used red rice) 5ml mirin 60ml rice vinegar white (hulled) sesame seeds black sesame seeds (optional) FOR THE SPICY TUNA MIX

5ml sesame oil 10ml sriracha (or more, according to taste) 30ml mayonnaise 1 spring onion, washed and finely chopped 1 large tin of tuna, drained FOR THE FILLING

2 sweet coloured peppers, washed and cut into julienne strips 2 spring onions, washed and cut into jullienne strips 1 small cucumber, washed and left unpeeled, cut into julienne strips 2 or 3 crab sticks cut into thin slices 1 avocado, washed, peeled, pitted, halved, and cut into thin slices 300g smoked salmon slices, cut into pieces ½ a small tub of Philadelphia cheese, roughly cut/shaped into thin strips

PREPARING THE FILLING

1. or the spicy tuna filling, stir all

the ingredients together in a bowl and set it aside until needed. 2. ut the other ingredients into small, individual dishes and combine them as you work, according to your taste, e.g. spicy tuna and cucumber or crab stick, cucumber and avocado. PREPARING THE RICE BASE

1. inse the white rice and the

wholegrain rice separately. Boil the two types of rice separately, according to the instructions on the packets. rain the cooked rice after boiling, but do not rinse it. ut the different types of rice into two separate bowls. 2. Add . ml (½ a teaspoon mirin and ml ( tablespoons rice vinegar to each bowl of rice, and immediately stir each mi ture separately and thoroughly until the rice begins to stick together. Allow the rice to cool to room temperature. 3. lace a sushi mat (or a stiff place mat onto your work surface, covering its surface with cling film. 4. lace a sheet of nori on the cling film, with the longer side closest to you. 5. sing a tablespoon, spread a layer of rice (white, wholegrain, or a combination of the two on the nori, starting from around cm away from the longer edge furthest from you. or the inside out rolls, cover the entire area of the nori sheet with rice. FOR THE MAKI ROLLS

FOR SERVING

soy sauce for dipping pickled ginger (optional) wasabi paste YOU WILL ALSO NEED

cling-film a sushi mat (or a stiff placemat) for rolling

1. Starting with a rice base, place

the filling combination of your choice in a cm wide strip along the long end of the sheet closest to you, starting from around cm away from the edge. ayer the filling ingredients, if necessary. 2. Sprinkle the filling with sesame seeds if you like a bit of crunch. 3. ith the help of the cling film and the sushi mat (if you’re using one , roll the sushi from the longest side closest to you, wrapping up the filling, to form a log. 4. rap the sushi log in the cling film, and place it in the refrigerator while you finish preparing the rest of the sushi.

FOR THE “INSIDE-OUT” ROLLS

1. Starting with a rice base, sprinkle

sesame seeds of your choice liberally over the rice on the nori sheet and place a layer of cling film on top. Through the cling film, press the sesame seeds very lightly into the rice till they stick to it. 2. ith both the top and bottom layers of cling film still in place, flip the nori sheet over, so that the rice layer ends up at the bottom with the nori sheet on top. emove the top sheet of cling film. 3. As with the maki rolls, place the fillings of your choice in a cm strip along the long end of the nori sheet closest to you, starting from around cm away from the edge, or lightly pile the filling ingredients on each other, if necessary. 4. ith the help of the cling film (and the sushi mat, if using , roll the sushi from the longest side closest to you to form a log. 5. rap the sushi log in the cling film, and place it in the refrigerator while you finish preparing the rest of the sushi. PREPARATION FOR SERVING

1. Take a sushi log out of the

refrigerator, unwrap it, and, using a very sharp knife, slice it into individual sushi rolls. epeat with the other logs. 2. eave the uncut rolls in the fridge while you work, so that they will remain firm and easy to cut into portions. 3. Arrange the individual pieces on a dish. Serve them accompanied with wasabi and pickled ginger (optional and individual bowls with soy sauce for dipping. n

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T&F DRINK

SEVILLE ORANGE INFUSED GIN Pick a basketful of oranges and make yourself a gift that will last all year. Photography: Megan Mallia

FOR ONE BOTTLE, YOU WILL NEED:

zest of 4-6 Seville oranges (“larinġ tal-bakkaljaw”) 700ml gin 70g sugar 70ml water

1. Pour 700ml of gin into a clean, sealable container

large enough to hold all the ingredients.

eville orange infused gin sounds complicated, but it is actually quite easy to make. Just ensure that you leave it to infuse for a minimum of three days, shaking it daily, to ensure that the aromatic oils are released from the orange zest. To make the infusion, you will need a sterilised, sealable container and clean, glass bottles with sealable tops. There are plenty of Seville oranges to be had for virtually nothing, so make up several bottles of infused gin and store them a cool, dark place. They will keep for about a year.

2. Wash the oranges and use a sharp knife or zester to remove the outer layer of the skins in fine strips. Add the zest to the gin, seal the container and store it in a cool, dark, dry place. 3. Let the zest infuse for a minimum of three days, shaking the container 1-2 times daily. If you prefer a more intense flavour, let the mi ture infuse for longer. 4. sing a funnel and a fine sieve, strain the infused liquid into a clean,

litre glass bottle and set it aside. If your sieve is not fine enough, line it with muslin and run the liquid through a second time. 5. Now, add 70g of sugar to 70ml of water in a pan and stir

the mi ture over a low heat until it dissolves and forms a syrup. Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool.

6. Pour the cooled syrup into the orange-infused gin, and gently

shake the bottle until the syrup and alcohol are combined.

7. Store the bottle in the fridge until it is well chilled and serve in cooled glasses, with some tonic water and ice.

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DRINK T&F

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T&F BAKING

BITTER SWEET

Steeped in nostalgia and made with love, these homely sweets are infused with the tangy taste of Seville oranges plucked from a Maltese garden. Baking: Mandy and Amy Mallia Styling and photography: Megan Mallia

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BAKING T&F

SEVILLE ORANGE, DATE & WALNUT FINGERS The Seville orange zest and home-made marmalade are optional, but it would be a pity not to use some, seeing that Seville oranges are currently in such abundance in many Maltese gardens.

Makes several pieces Preparation and cooking: 45 minutes YOU WILL NEED:

zest of 1 Seville orange (“Laring tal-bakkaljaw”) 1 egg, lightly beaten • 50g butter, melted • 50g brown sugar 2 tablespoons home-made Seville orange marmalade (or use shop-bought Dundee marmalade) 50g walnuts, roughly chopped 100g dates, roughly chopped • 100g self-raising flour

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (gas mark 4). 2. Sift the flour into a large mi ing bowl. Add the brown sugar, dates, walnuts and orange zest to the bowl. Mi with a spoon, then make a well in the centre of the mi ture. 3. Mi the egg, marmalade and melted butter together, then pour them into the centre of the flour mi ture. sing a spoon, mi everything together until well combined. 4. ine an inch deep, baking dish with greaseproof paper, then spoon the mi ture into it, spreading it out evenly and pressing it down lightly as you do so. 5. Bake in a preheated oven for around

minutes, until lightly golden and cooked through. ut the cake into fingers while still hot and allow it to cool in the tin.

6. These can be stored in an airtight container

for a few days or frozen to enjoy later.

Mandy:

“My maternal grandmother used to make a wonderful date and walnut slice. Although I have never quite managed to match it - I never thought of asking her for the recipe - this comes a close second, albeit only in taste.” ISSUE 136 FEBRUARY 2021

T&F BAKING

ORANGE MARMALADE SCONES We prepared these scones with a batch of Seville orange marmalade we had made last year and which stored very well in a cool, dark cupboard. Taste&Flair note: See “Jars of sunshine” in issue 128, May 2020.

The scones are best served warm with whipped fresh cream or clotted cream and a dollop of home-made marmalade. You could substitute the preserve with ready-made Dundee marmalade.

Makes 12 scones Preparation and cooking: 35 minutes, plus 1 hour resting time YOU WILL NEED:

120g orange marmalade ½ teaspoon salt 20g baking powder 400g “00” (or plain) flour 1 egg, lightly beaten, to glaze 115g cold butter, cut into cubes 140ml full-fat milk TO SERVE

a little icing sugar, for dusting whipped fresh cream, or clotted cream Seville orange marmalade

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1. Sift the flour, salt and baking

powder together in a large bowl.

2. Add the butter to the dry ingredients, and rub it in with your fingers until the mi ture resembles fine breadcrumbs. 3. Add the marmalade and the milk to the bowl and mi it in gently with a fork until lightly combined and a loose dough is formed. ( neading the dough will result in a heavy te ture.

BAKING T&F

4. Cover the bowl, and leave the dough to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes. 5. ightly flour your work surface

and rolling pin. Roll the dough out until it is roughly cm thick, then cut out cm rounds using a biscuit cutter, re rolling pastry trimmings as necessary.

6. lace the scones on a baking

7. Preheat the oven to 180°C (gas mark . Bake the scones for minutes until their tops turn lightly golden. 8. lace the scones on a serving

plate and dust lightly with icing sugar. Serve while still warm, with whipped fresh cream or clotted cream, and Seville orange marmalade on the side.

As its name implies, Dundee marmalade – although made with oranges from Seville - originated in Dundee. It came about in the 18th century, when a storm-damaged Spanish ship sought refuge in Dundee harbour. To lighten the ship’s load, its cargo of Seville oranges was sold off cheaply to a local merchant, whose wife sought to preserve it, resulting in the marmalade we have since enjoyed in various ways.

sheet lined with greaseproof paper, then brush the surface of each one with a little egg wash. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

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T&F BAKING

SILENZIOSI

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BAKING T&F

The silenziosi taste best while still warm.

Makes 12-15 pieces Preparation and cooking: 20-25 minutes, plus 30 minutes resting time YOU WILL NEED:

vegetable oil for deep-frying icing sugar, for dusting zest of 1 Seville orange (“Laring tal-bakkaljaw”) 2 tablespoons Seville orange gin (or other alcohol) 1 egg, lightly beaten 25g butter, at room temperature 25g sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder 190g plain flour

1. Sift the flour and the baking powder

together in a medium bowl. Add the sugar, butter and orange zest and mi lightly with a fork. Add the egg and the Seville orange gin and mi them in lightly.

2. nead the dough by hand until it feels smooth but is still quite firm. If necessary, add a little bit of water to get the right consistency. oll the dough into a ball, wrap it in plastic film, and allow it to rest in the fridge for minutes. 3. e t, lightly flour your work surface and rolling pin, and roll the dough out as thinly as possible, fold it over, and roll it out again. epeat the rolling and folding process three or four times, ending up with a large rectangular piece of pastry around mm thick. 4. sing a pizza wheel or a sharp knife, cut the pastry into rectangles measuring roughly cm by cm, and make a central slit down the length of each one, leaving the ends intact. Alternatively, simply cut the pastry into slightly narrower rectangles.

“This version uses Seville orange zest and homemade Seville orange gin (see page 42) but you could substitute them with the zest of any type of unwaxed orange and strong alcohol. Amy:

5. eat the oil in a deep, heavy bottomed pan.

To check whether it has reached the correct temperature, drop a little piece of thin pastry into it if the pastry floats almost immediately, then you may begin cooking your silenziosi.

6. arefully place each piece of pastry into

the hot oil, turning each one over every now and then with cooking tongs or with the help of a slotted spoon. ook until slightly golden, rather than dark brown.

7. ently remove the silenziosi from the hot oil, and place them on a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain off the e cess oil. 8. Transfer the hot pastries to a clean

serving plate, sprinkle them lightly with icing sugar, and serve them while warm.

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T&F BAKING

TANGY, NUTTY CHOCOLATE CANTUCCI These tangy and nutty chocolate cantucci are delicious on their own or accompanying a warm, milky drink. They store well in an airtight container for about a week or so, though they never last so long in our household.

Makes about 30 cantucci Preparation and cooking: 70 minutes YOU WILL NEED:

est of one Seville orange (or any other unwa ed orange) • 1 5g sugar 2 teaspoons Seville orange marmalade • ¾ teaspoon salt • 2 0g plain flour 1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda • 2 large eggs • 0g cocoa powder • 115g butter 150g mi ed, unsalted nuts, roughly chopped (we used almonds and pistacchios)

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (gas

mark 4) and line a large baking tray with greaseproof paper.

2. Sift the cocoa powder, flour, bicarbonate of soda and salt together in a bowl. Mix well with a spoon. Add the orange zest and the chopped nuts to the flour mi ture, and mi them in. 3. ream the butter and sugar together with an electric mixer for minutes until light and fluffy, then scrape down the sides of the bowl. 4. Add the egg and the marmalade to the butter sugar cream. Beat with the electric mi er until well combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl intermittently.

8. Bake the logs for around

minutes until they are firm to the touch, but leave the oven on, because you will be using it again a few minutes.

9. Allow the logs to cool for about

minutes. Then, using a sharp knife, cut them into diagonal slices around 2cm wide on the baking tray itself.

10. lip the slices cut side down on

5. Add the dry ingredients to

the same baking tray, then bake for a further minutes or so until they have dried out and begun to crisp.

6. ust your work surface with

11. Remove the baking tray from the oven and allow the cantucci to cool slightly before transferring them onto a wire rack to cool completely.

the wet ingredients, and mix on a low speed until they come together to form a sticky dough.

flour, and scrape the dough out onto it. Sprinkle a little flour onto the dough, and ease it into a ball shape, adding more flour if necessary. Split the ball into two, and form each piece into a log shape.

7. Ease the logs onto the lined baking tray, and roll each one into a longer log around cm high and cm wide. eave as much space as possible between them, to allow room for spreading as they cook.

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“On hourslong car trips on our regular family holidays to Italy as a child, I would often be placated with the promise of chocolate cantucci bought from a particular familyrun shop along the way. This is my take on this traditional Italian biscuit. It comes close to the original that bought hours of quiet time on those long car journeys. Amy:

BAKING T&F

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T&F BAKING

ORANGE CHOCOLATE BROWNIES These brownies have a slightly sharp taste and are delicious both at room temperature and chilled. We prefer to store them in the refrigerator and eat them cold.

Makes 25 small brownies or 9 large ones Preparation and cooking: 55 minutes YOU WILL NEED:

zest of 2 Seville oranges (“Laring talbakkaljaw”) or unwaxed oranges 3 tablespoons of Seville orange marmalade 125g dark chocolate, broken into blocks 150g butter, roughly chopped 360g sugar 3 eggs 125g plain flour 50g cocoa powder

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1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (gas

mark 4), and line a 20cm square cake tin with baking paper.

2. Put the butter and chocolate into a heatproof bowl, and melt them together over a pot of simmering water (bain-marie), stirring occasionally. When ready, remove the bowl from the heat, and allow the chocolate and butter to cool slightly. 3. ash and zest the oranges finely. Put the eggs, sugar and orange zest into a mixing bowl and whisk lightly together with a balloon whisk until well combined. 4. Whisk the chocolate / butter mixture into the egg / sugar / zest mixture. Sift the flour and cocoa powder together, then add them to the bowl with all the other ingredients. Mix together with a balloon whisk, taking care not to overbeat the mixture.

5. Pour the batter into the lined

baking tin and bake it in the preheated oven for around 35-40 minutes until just firm to the touch.

6. Let the brownies cool down in

the tin, then place them – still in the tin –in the refrigerator, and leave them for 2-3 hours until cold. Don’t try to cut them to size while they are still warm. Waiting until they are chilled makes the job easier, and results in more neatly-cut brownies.

7. Once the brownies have chilled slightly, remove them from the tin with the baking paper, and cut them to size. Store in an air tight box in the refrigerator until needed. They will keep well for around three days. n

For enquiries or to book your table please call 2157 4882 or email info@giuseppisrestaurant.com

80, South Street, Valletta 2124 2938

T&F TRANSFORMATION

THE

TOWNH

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REI

TRANSFORMATION T&F

NHOUSE

EINVENTED Townhouses are as common to Malta’s urban landscape as rubble walls once were to its rural one. Yet, as Claire Baguley has shown in her Birkirkara townhouse, sometimes all you need is to take a step back to appreciate the blank canvas these buildings can provide. B

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T&F TRANSFORMATION

laire Baguley was born in Mosta, but has spent the last twenty years living and working in the USA. As the founder of Meshint’l, a company that specalises in organising high-profile events and conferences, including for The White House, Claire’s trips to Malta became whirlwinds of packing in as many get-togethers as possible with her family and friends. This Birkirkara townhouse, which she purchased four years ago, proved to be the perfect setting for that, but what makes the property special is the loving way it was brought squarely into the 21st century.

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TRANSFORMATION T&F

In the study, the electrical wiring was installed in the lower part of the wall, with just the ceiling wiring left exposed to protect the ceiling painting. The pendant light is from ESS Ltd.

uilt in 1906, this double-fronted townhouse once formed three separate addresses, but while they were joined sometime before 2016, very little else had changed. The yard was full of chicken coops, the electricity and plumbing were primitive, and the house’s layout meant that even though there were numerous apertures, darkness still reigned supreme. Claire, however, fell in love with it. The size and the scope of the project were just what she was looking for, and the features of the house reminded her of Malta, the home she missed when she was jet-setting for work. And that was indeed her first request to both her architect and her workers: the vestibule, the stone staircase with metal railing, the spiral staircase at the back, the two ornate columns, the Maltese tiles throughout, and the hand-painted and stencilled walls and ceilings, were to be retained at all costs. To do this, they had to think out of the box, and answer came in the shape of ceilings and walls.

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T&F TRANSFORMATION

The once small, dark kitchen is now a cavernous space bathed in natural light. The kitchen is by Joinwell, with floor tiles and counter surfaces by Halmann Vella.

“In a bid to safeguard the tiles in the kitchen, all the plumbing, electrical wiring, internet cables, fire alarms, and air-conditioning were run through the soffit, with chases leading whatever needed to be connected to the lower parts of the room,” she explains. “When it came to the study, which has a painted ceiling and original Maltese tiles, we used the lower quarter of the wall to install the electrical wiring, and we left the ceiling wire exposed so we wouldn’t ruin any part of the painting.”

ISSUE 136 FEBRUARY 2021

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T&F TRANSFORMATION

ISSUE 136 FEBRUARY 2021

TRANSFORMATION T&F

hings, however, got even more complicated in the master bedroom, where the ceiling and the walls are painted, and the floor had to be left untouched. Reaching a compromise, the lower part of the wall, which could easily be covered by furniture, was used to install any connections needed. Meanwhile Claire put up velvet curtains, which she leaves drawn apart, to cover clothes racks, thus avoiding the need for a wardrobe that would cover up a big chunk of the beautiful wall stencils.

et, for all this, the house doesn’t feel like a time capsule or a makeshift museum. Instead, Claire looked at how the house could give her what she needed, which was an elegant-yetcosy entertainment space. To achieve this, a number of internal walls on the ground floor were knocked down, turning a once small and dark kitchen into a cavernous space bathed with natural light.

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T&F TRANSFORMATION

The long room is effortlessly divided by the clever use of furniture.

ere is where the traditional townhouse begins to meet the villas of Beverly Hills. The long room is effortlessly divided by the clever use of furniture. A velvet armchair and sofa lead gracefully to a metal and wood table that could comfortably sit twenty people. After this, two steps take you to the elevated country-house kitchen, where marble countertops and lava rock tiles mingle with old Wembley Store posters and ceramic jars. “I had storyboards for the whole house, as well as each room,” she continues. “I would include photos of places I had visited, seen online or in magazines, and had loved. I had fabric samples, paint colours, notes on the textures I wanted to use…”

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T&F TRANSFORMATION

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TRANSFORMATION T&F

A strategically placed projector turns this area into an outdoor cinema perfect for our warm summer nights.

his is what helped Claire create a seamless space that respected what was already there with what she was looking to create with the property. And ‘seamless’ is the word that perfectly describes how this house merges the outdoors with the indoors, too. In the living-dining area, there are two large apertures made mostly of glass that open up to a rather small yet charming internal courtyard. Lots of plants make it feel like a small oasis in this busy area of Birkirkara. This concept is also one Claire used for the pool area at the back of the house, where a halfroofed, shallow, heated pool can be enjoyed all-year round. A strategically placed projector, meanwhile, turns this area into an outdoor cinema perfect for our warm summer nights or mild winter afternoons.

Floor tiles by Halmann Vella

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T&F TRANSFORMATION

et what has truly transformed the house is the lavish use of white paint, which covers the once-bare walls, columns and intricate ceiling carvings. Bouncing light off of every conceivable surface allowed Claire to turn the Maltese tiles into focal points, and she used their colours as inspiration for her furniture, her cushions, her curtains, and her minimal decorations. Ultimately, this beautiful townhouse in Birkirkara was an exercise in restraint that shows how, by working within the parameters of what an old house has to offer, modern living can be made even more comfortable and enjoyable. n

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T&F COLLECTING

SHELFEXPRESSION By Megan Mallia.

haracter, not possessions, defines who we are. But what we collect and how we decorate says a great deal about our personality. It might seem crass to imbue material objects with much significance, but we do it nonetheless, and it’s one way of understanding the past. Archaeology, after all, tells the story of humankind through objects. People might be cultural collectors, but nature has its own, too. Magpies, for instance, bejewel their nests with found bits and bobs. The difference though is that magpies collect without a theme or organisational intent – they simply gather. Other members of the feathered family, however, go about the act of collecting with as much vigour and intent as the most passionate of their human counterparts. These are the bowerbirds, avid collectors and equally avid organisers. They search high and low for things they consider beautiful and worthy of adding to their compendium. Indeed, they are discriminating in their ways, arranging their “bowers” (the term for their curious collections) by colour or even by the type of find. The romantic at heart will understand the reason behind their behaviour: it’s all to attract a mate.

Photo: Alex Block

People collect with intent. We pick items that speak to us, even if it is just ourselves who see beauty in our findings. But, funnily enough, last year saw the birth of a new cultural phenomenon that brought out the bowerbird in many: the bleak or bold, subtle or striking – but in every way communicative – bookshelf backdrop. Seen on screens the world over thanks to the shift of work from office to home, the bookshelf – the epitome of curation and display – became a statement. We are what we read, but also what we appear to read. Admittedly, for many readers, the aesthetic aspect of bookshelves might be a merely incidental element. But others hold form and functionality at the same level, and there is even a market – bibliophiles, be warned – that curates books for the sake of design alone, a market satisfied by the existence of booksellers who offer the ability to buy books by the metre. Regardless of how we view bookshelves, however, from them we unconsciously make assumptions about their owners. That shelves are valued aesthetically makes the bookshelf an incredibly interesting cultural artefact, more so when set

That shelves are valued aesthetically makes the bookshelf an incredibly interesting cultural artefact.

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COLLECTING T&F

Photo: House Method

against its precursors. In recent times, social media sparked a turn of page for the significance of visual culture. It saw the dawn of bookstagram and, even more whimsically, the shelfie . ndoubtedly a godsend for publishers, the printed book replaced its digital doppelgänger, the e book, as the fashionable thing to have. overs, bindings and collections became the art pieces of the modern age. nce verging on the anachronistic, the book was back and, with it, the return of shelf curation as an art. The appreciation for curation and the significance given to it stretches as far back as the Italian enaissance. The cabinet of curiosities is often said to be the origin of collecting, and is considered an ancestor of the contemporary museum. nown also by its erman name, wunderkammer, which translates literally to room of wonder’, the cabinet of curiosities was a room lined with shelves and not actually a cabinet as the name suggests. But its curated nature – the careful selection and displaying of objects that caught the curator’s attention – is the same as that of the modern shelf. The cabinet was an eclectic collection of both natural and artificial wonders, showcasing

the bizarre, the beautiful, and often the downright baffling. Each cabinet told a story about the world, and in doing so conveyed a specific view of it. This made each a representation of its proud curator’s perception and apparent worldliness. What was collected and how these objects and curios were displayed both said a lot, and this is essentially what contemporary bookshelves do, too. According to Sotheby’s Institute of Art, the cabinet of curiosities was followed by the studiolo. ike its precursor, the studiolo (or little studio housed works of art in the form of paintings and esteemed literature, among other things. It had the added quality of being a place where one could lose oneself in mindful contemplation, surrounded by objects and pieces one held dear. ith this in mind, the home office and its bookshelf backdrop suddenly don’t seem quite so new. ollections are undeniably imbued with significance because of a quality intrinsic to human nature: communication based on symbols. But while that may be so, we shouldn’t forget the joy and pleasure to be had in finding items that suit our characters and personalities, and nor should we hide it. It is something to celebrate. n

Once verging on the anachronistic, the book was back and, with it, the return of shelf curation as an art.

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T&F CITY LIVING

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CITY LIVING T&F

SER EN DIP ITY The interiors of these two Valletta rentals have just enough colour and creature comforts to draw you in, but with plenty of scope to bring in your own possessions and make them feel like home. Photography: Brian Grech

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T&F CITY LIVING

Both places needed a lot of work to turn them into the contemporary interiors you see here.

inding your first home is difficult. ou need to like the neighbourhood, and preferably the neighbours too. ou want a place that looks good, or at least one that you can refine to your taste without too much time, e pense or effort. It has to feel right, fit your budget, and give you enough space to grow. It’s a tall order, and one not easily fulfilled. et, sometimes, the stars align and things fall into place, or that alignment happens in a series of serendipitous steps, helped along by creativity and a willingness to step out of your comfort zone. As with many things, it’s down to a combination of luck, timing, and knowing what you’re looking for, as one young couple found out.

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Carmelo Delia Joinery specialises in all types of custom-made furniture, including traditional Maltese balconies, doors, windows and louvers, etc. We can use a range of different materials for your furniture pieces with customised pieces to suit your space.

Address: St Mark Street, Valletta, Malta. Telephone: 2122 0949 Mobile: 9985 7016 Email: carmelodelia.joinery@gmail.com Carmelo Delia Joinery

T&F CITY LIVING

hen the young woman was thinking of buying her first home, Valletta seemed an attractive option. After decades in the doldrums, Malta’s capital city had just begun to liven up. owever, that meant property prices were beginning to rise, making them unaffordable for her. ortunately, her then boyfriend grew to like the idea of living in Valletta and, together, they bought a small flat and divided it into two, living in one while renting out the other. radually, they got to know the neighbourhood better and became part of the local community.

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CITY LIVING T&F

heir first home had a traditional gallarija, overlooking the main street. That’s what eventually led them to the ne t serendipitous step. e’d be in our balcony and used to see and greet our neighbour in hers, the young woman says. e learned that ita was the aunt of our local grocer, whose mother lived across the road from us. The area has a real community feel. hen their neighbour passed away, the owner of the maisonette offered them the opportunity of buying it. They took up the offer and, with the help of rental income, eventually took on another small flat downstairs too. There was nothing traditional about the interiors that could be salvaged or restored – no patterned cement tiles or decorative stonework, for instance – and both places needed a lot of work to turn them into the contemporary interiors you see here.

We have happy memories of living here in this flat.

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T&F CITY LIVING

“W

e had help with managing the works,” the young woman says. “Our project manager, Emma Bullock, didn’t just look after the site. She also advised on the choice of colours and materials.” That advice included choosing a neutral palette with pattern and colour accents for the interior, and the striking colour of the external woodwork. The front doors, windows, and traditional wooden balcony in a gorgeous petrol blue were custom-built by hand by Carmelo Delia woodworks in Valletta. Meanwhile, there were changes in the couple’s personal life. Marriage and the start of a family meant that they had to move out of their first home into a bigger place. After a temporary relocation to a rental house elsewhere, they moved back to Valletta and into the maisonette where their neighbour once lived, while they completed the works on their new family home a few streets away.

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CITY LIVING T&F

“W

e were able to try out living in this flat ourselves,” the young woman says. “My husband took care of the overall redesign. I could look at the place from another perspective. For instance, I could see that the stair railings would be risky for children so we covered them in Perspex. It’s a temporary solution which makes it safer for children, and it can be removed at a later stage.” She and her husband like being in the city, greeting their neighbours in the morning, feeling that there’s a community here: e have happy memories of living here in this flat, and it’s nice to think that we moved into Valletta twice.” n

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T&F WINE

VALUE WINES TO BEAT THE WINTER BLUES I , A

s they do every year, hristmas passed in a flash and January seemed never-ending. I wondered how my pay kept me going till the end of the month and, apparently, I’m not alone. A friend called, asking me for easy drinking wine recommendations because she couldn’t drink another bottle of the cheap stuff she had received in Christmas hampers. I can relate to that. I detest cheap-tasting wines. I don’t mean entry level, easy drinking wine. I mean those wines that are often mass-produced, and use way too many additives and specialised yeasts which alters the flavours so much it no longer tastes like wine. That unforgettable headache from the bright, purplecoloured, synthetic-tasting wine you drank at the Christmas party two years was ago more than likely boosted with Mega Purple (a concoction of sugar and Rubired grapes, which are both red in skin and flesh and enhance the colour of the wine to look aesthetically pleasing), a few extra doses of tartaric acid and possibly aged in re-usable steel barrels with added oak chips for that oaky flavour. Now, there is nothing fundamentally wrong with any of these methods, but the end taste can only be described as sickly. Dare I say, it’s a bit like adding a cube to your cooking, instead of well-prepared home-made stock? The end-result won’t kill you, but you’ve definitely tasted better, right? Fortunately, delicious wines needn’t come with a hefty price tag. Science has truly benefitted the consumer and if you’re just a tad wine savvy, it’s not too hard to find some enjoyable wines without breaking the bank. My first suggestion for finding well-made, tasty wines would be to avoid the six most common grapes. The international varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Riesling easily command better prices because they are extremely popular varietals grown all over the world. Pretty much everybody can recognise a Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon on a wine label. Less recognised grape varieties such as Viongier, or Grüner Veltliner are already at a disadvantage at labelling stage, so it’s more likely you’d get a bargain without compromising on quality.

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If you’re a Sauvignon Blanc type of person who enjoys the e tremely fresh, steely and citrussy flavours you get from a Sancerre or New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, try swapping that for an Austrian Grüner Veltliner. It’s usually half the price of any decent Sancerre, but with a similar flavour profile of lemon and lime and an incredible searing acidity, making it the perfect pairing for seafood and salads. For a wine with more depth and richness, Viognier is a great alternative to Chardonnay. It’s not considered the hedonist’s white grape without reason. The best Viogniers have a heady richness that envelopes the palate with ripe peach and honeysuckle. Look out for Australian and South African Viogniers, as opposed to the French entry level ays ’ Viogniers that can leave a strange floral taste reminiscent of the ‘air freshener’ my grandma used to use back in the 1980s. I’m not saying the French don’t produce good Viongier, but ondrieu, or more specifically their most renowned Château-Grillet at over €200 a pop, isn’t exactly easy-drinking or value-wine I can afford after the Christmas season, so it will have to wait. Italy alone has over 300 indigenous grape varietals in production. Trying them will easily keep you busy for the rest of 2021. Varieties such as Fiano, Arneis, Vermentino and Greco produce some sublime examples of quality wine. Between you and me, I usually find that these varieties offer much better value in restaurants, especially when compared to the renowned Pinot Grigios, Sancerres and Corvos that are so popular. Fortunately, it’s a similar story with red wine. I used to think that finding a big, bold red wine that ticks all the boxes was tricky, but using the same strategy of avoiding the big names generally reaps fantastic rewards. Easy drinking Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and pizza work like a charm. The spiciness from the Montepulciano grapes work well with the oregano and tomato toppings. Some of these lesser-known varieties also age just as well at their premium counterparts. I wasn’t surprised at the gorgeous bottle of 2007 Agliancio from Taurasi in Italy I opened recently. Bought at less than €20 a bottle, I was drinking a seriously elegant, 13 year-old gem with soft, well integrated tannins akin to wines costing two or even three times the price.

If you’re just a tad wine-savvy, it’s not too hard to find some enjoyable wines without breaking the bank.

WINE T&F

Some of these lesserknown varieties also age just as well at their premium counterparts.

If, like I do, you enjoy the soft tannins and secondary flavours of toast, vanilla and leather, look out for Tempranillo (Tinta oriz eservas from Spain. These wines from ioja and ibera del uero are aged for a minimum of years before release and are commonly found at less than a bottle. In fact, many wine critics are e pecting their prices to soar. ith that in in mind, other quality wine producing areas in Spain such as astilla y eon, or the lesser known riorat, which are renowned for their fruit forward and slaty arnacha ( renache or arignan wines, are not e pected to shoot up in prices – at least not just yet. urther west from ibera del uero, continuing along the iver uero to ortugal’s ouro Valley is another underrated region churning out top quality wines at silly cheap prices. At less than a bottle, I discovered quite a few easy drinking, quality wines produced from the indigenous Touriga acional grape. Spend a few more euros per bottle and you’ll be buying wines that match the luscious blackberry, chocolatey and spicy flavour profiles of some truly e pensive and age worthy abernet Sauvignons from more popular areas. Sometimes, however, I simply crave one of the popular si varieties. But be it a abernet Sauvignon, hardonnay or Merlot, there are still ways of finding tasty and affordable wines. Make sure to avoid the well known wine producing areas of Bordeau , Burgundy, iedmont and Tuscany and look further afield. Argentina and hile have become relatively popular, but I still advise some caution when choosing wines from these areas. These countries have produced some outstanding wines that have beaten uropean stronghold wines in some major competitions, but unfortunately, greedy producers quickly caught on and started rolling out some cheap tasting stuff that might just be good enough to cook with. ou can usually easily steer away from these wines with their colourful, fancy labels found in abundance at the large supermarket chains as well as every shelf in the little grocery store ne t door. To reduce the risk of getting your hands on one of the cheaply made, mass produced wines, I strongly suggest researching the producers or asking your wine merchant for their recommendations.

roatia is making some e ceptionally good wines at an amazing quality to price ratio. owever, navigating the e tremely difficult names makes it a pretty arduous task and probably one of the reasons they’re so underrated. eciphering the red grape rljenak a telanski is a task in itself, let alone pronouncing it, yet it is none other than Italy’s rimitivo or alifornia’s infandel and the quality is often on par at a fraction of the cost. Thankfully, the easier to pronounce international grape varieties such as iesling, hardonnay and inot oir, are also of great quality, so be sure to keep a look out for these. As you’d e pect, heavy weights areas such as Bordeau are not the first to come to mind when looking for that easy drinking, ine pensive wine, but do not discount them totally. Smaller or lesser known satellite areas of Bordeau such as ussac St milion, Medoc, alande de omerol, anon ronsac or ntre deu Mer are home to some rich and supple wines. They are e tremely enjoyable at a young age and a few can age a couple of years. If ebruary calls for a celebration, we needn’t spend top dollar on hampagne to celebrate. rosecco is always a great alternative for easy drinking bubbles and choosing a Valdobbiadene Superiore generally guarantees good quality. If you’re after the richer, brioche flavours one gets from traditional method sparkling wines, Spanish ava or r mant sparkling wines are a great alternative. Both are delicious, affordable alternatives to hampagne, produced in a similar way, without the reputation of the name. There are quite a few to choose from, just look for r mant on the bottle. Though I love a big name in wine, I simply cannot afford top flight alifornian abs, Burgundy rand rus and Barolos every day. More so, there are days when I just want a juicy, easy drinking red with my pizza or an ine pensive yet quaffable and refreshing white to serve at my ne t get together. In all honesty, I get a thrill when discovering a great affordable wine. uckily, the vast range of wines on the island gives me plenty to choose from. n Andrew Azzopardi is a wine specialist certified by the Wine and Spirit Education Trust

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T&F NOSTALGIA

Meridiana Wine Estate is spread over 19 hectares and is situated in Ta’ Qali. Most of the 140,000 bottles of D.O.K. wines produced annually are sold in Malta. Meridiana’s wine selection includes the Isis Chardonnay, Astarte Vermentino, Melqart Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, Bel Syrah, Nexus Merlot, Celsius Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve and the Baltis Moscato Passito. The more casual Fenici range is made of a White, a Rose and a Red, three lovely easy to drink wines which, apart from Meridiana’s renowned quality, also offer great value for money. For home deliveries, order online on www.srausi.com #staysafe

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Malta Dairy Products, part of the KPH Group, have launched a new product under their iconic brand, Benna. Their new and exclusive fresh milk fortified with Vitamin D will be a permanent addition to the range of fresh milks Benna currently offers. It will help individuals and families ensure they are consuming enough vitamin D in their diet and not rely solely on the sun as their source. This is particularly useful for those who spend little time exposed to the sun, and maybe even more so nowadays due to the pandemic. Benna’s new fortified milk is available in all leading supermarkets and outlets in Malta and Gozo.

LEDS C4 Noway is a light fixture with a surprising sense of weightlessness and lightness that provides a high level of visual comfort with minimum material. This collection offers different options, from purer versions to other more complex ones that play with light effects and add greater visual presence. Available in Matt Black or Metalic Gold. Elekra Ltd., Qormi.

Modern and elegant with a generous form! The Reef sofa offers a flexible design option in linear versions or corner versions catering to different tastes and contemporary trends. The legs of the sofa are in metal with shiny black nickel finish. Available in leather or fabric finish. The fabric upholstery is removable. Reef by Novamobili in-store at Satariano, 122 Valley Road, Birkirkara. Tel 2149 2149

The next issue will be out on 4 April 2021 with The Malta Independent on Sunday

ISSUE 136 FEBRUARY 2021

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