Taste&Flair July 2021 by The Malta Independent

ISSUE 139 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

Feed your imagination

Mediterranean gardens, interiors, food & drink, Valletta heritage & architecture

JULY 2021

cleans

ventilates

bakes

One sofa, lots of possibilities The more possibilities we can offer you, the more personalized your furniture can be. And this works best with Hulsta furniture such as the hs.450 programme. There are two different kinds of seating comfort, three seat depths, two seat heights, eight different arm rests and ten different bases. Foot rests, foot supports as well as headrests can also be easily integrated. The hs.450 programme enables you to make all your personal seating preferences a reality in a single sofa. Let no comfort option escape you with the incredible hs.450!

Joinwell Mill Street, Qormi +356 2278 2000 info@joinwell.com.mt www.joinwell.com.mt

T&F EDITORIAL

JULY 2021

Welcome T

rying to beat the heat is (almost) an annual sport. How do you keep cool, calm, and collected when the mercury’s rising, you’re running late and you’re stuck in a seething snarl of traffic surrounded by angry, aggressive drivers honking their horns as if their lives depended on making as much noise as possible? The short answer is, you don’t. You get out of there as fast and make up for it in other ways - sitting somewhere by the sea, say, or in a cool, shaded place at home, reading about the good things in life or sharing them with people who matter. Inspired by the recent heat wave and the bounty of the season, our chefs have cooked up a feast of colour and flavour. What could be more satisfying than a home-made meal, made with care and eaten at leisure, whether in company or self-indulgently alone? Claire Borg’s super salads are brimful of tangy, fresh and seasonal ingredients and a few that are readily available, though not so commonly used here in everyday cooking. Michael Diacono’s fish and seafood dishes range from the traditional and homely aljotta to unusual no-cook dishes like torched stracciatella with sea urchin roe and samphire. On the matter of uncommon ingredients, try our iced drinks and desserts shot through with the fragrance of roses and the promised pleasure of downing something refreshingly cold. There’s lots more in this issue of Taste&Flair that we hope you will enjoy. We’ll be taking a mid-summer break, but not for long. We’ll be back in early September with another issue of Taste&Flair. If you missed any issue of Taste&Flair and want a copy, we may be able to help so please do get in touch with us by email, Messenger, or on Instagram.

Corinne

Rose syrup and pistachio ice cream See feature starting on page 12. Photograph: Corinne Vella

ISSUE 139 DISTRIBUTED WITH THE MALTA INDEPENDENT ON SUNDAY

Feed your imagination

Mediterranean gardens, interiors, food & drink, Valletta heritage & architecture

Publisher The Daphne Caruana Galizia Foundation 56 Melita Street, Valletta VLT1122, Malta Editorial Board Paul Caruana Galizia Andrew Caruana Galizia Matthew Caruana Galizia Executive Editor Corinne Vella Editorial Assistants Megan Mallia • Amy Mallia Art Director Ramon Micallef +356 9949 1418 ram@box-design.net Advertising Manager & Editorial Contributor Sean Ellul +356 7921 0705 sellul@independent.com.mt Advertising Assistant Christine Mifsud +356 21 345 888 ext 138 cmifsud@independent.com.mt Production Manager André Camilleri Production Assistant Conrad Bondin Prepress & Printing Print It All communication about Taste&Flair magazine should be directed to Corinne Vella at corinne.vella@gmail.com No part of any issue of Taste&Flair may be reproduced without the written prior agreement of the publisher. Distributed with The Malta Independent on Sunday*. The Malta Independent on Sunday is published by Standard Publications Ltd - Tel +356 21 345 888 *The surcharge on The Malta Independent on Sunday, or any charge for this magazine is retained by Standard Publications Ltd.

Running Along the Beach (detail) Joaquín Sorolla - Museo de Bellas Artes de Asturias, Oviedo.

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T&F CONTENTS

p24 p12

CONTENTS 12

Buns & roses Chill with rose-scented drinks and ice cream

Down by the sea Fresh fish and seafood by Michael Diacono

Summer salads Claire Borg’s recipes pop with colour and flavour

p38

p78

The tree house A contemporary home built around the existing trees

Evolving heritage New architecture in the heart of Valletta

Mediterranean gardens Megan Mallia explores the mythology and reality

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Wine glasses Andrew Azzopardi on how to pick the right one

“This chair got my imagination going while working from home. I wasn’t even thinking it would be orange, but when it arrived, it was! So I picked three different colours to complement it and got them mixed at Vince Hardware Store in Fgura. Many rolls of masking tape later and now I just don’t want to leave my terrace! ”

Harley Mallia

T: 2166 8053 | info@sigmamalta.com | sigmamalta.com |

SigmaMalta

Sigma Coatings is a brand of

T&F PROMOTION

THE EDGE RESTAURANT

You’ve just got to visit Perched right between land and sea, The Edge offers spectacular views, delicious food, and excellent service – all with a side of Spritz of course. If you’re looking to get away from it all and take in a fresh summer breeze while enjoying good food, the ambiance at The Edge tops any expectations and adds a nice touch to a wonderfully balmy evening. It’s just like time takes a pause at The Edge, really allowing you to be in the moment.

ays are getting longer, and the urge to step outside and enjoy the sea breeze is getting stronger. If you’re looking for a new spot to chill, enjoy breath-taking views, and indulge in some seriously good food, you definitely need to drop by The Edge this summer for dinner. Located at the tip of the bay within the Radisson Blu Resort, St Julian’s, The Edge doubles as a fabulous lido during the day, and chilled restaurant at night. Casual in approach while maintaining Radisson’s five-star standards, The Edge offers an alfresco dining option to be enjoyed in the best of company. Launching a new dinner menu at the start of summer, we strongly recommend getting there before sunset, right at the time where the sky is about to turn pink, and the view is absolutely breath-taking. Picking a table furthest away from the bar area, allows you to fully take in the view which stretches from St George’s Bay, past the Dragonara, and beyond. The relaxed atmosphere is perfect for a Spritz or one of the special cocktails like Bubbly Porn Star which includes raspberry vodka, Passoa, vanilla syrup, passion fruit purée, and Prosecco.

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The new menu includes a delicious assortment of starters including a fresh Carpaccio of Meagre and Prawn served with lemon, fennel relish and lemon oil, and a Ceviche of Scottish Salmon, marinated in local olive oil, lemon and basil and served with microgreens. Our team has also worked on wonderful main dishes including Prawn and Crab Risotto cooked in a bisque with

PROMOTION T&F

fresh lemon and marjoram, and Oven Baked Salmon that’s dusted in Cajun spice and served with a pea and mint purée with lemon cream. Served with a crisp bottle of well chilled white wine, you’ll be sure to enjoy a wonderful evening. The team hasn’t forgotten dessert and has created a selection of decadent creations that are prepared in-house, giving you the best way to round off an amazing meal. Indulge in treats like Coconut Cheesecake Mousse and Banoffee Mousse, both served in air-tight jars to feel like you are popping open a little treasure box before indulging in a sweet feast.

Diners enjoy free parking on the Radisson grounds, which takes away all the hassle of having to look for a parking spot in the everbustling St Julian’s seafront area. Book your table on+356 23751990. We’re certain you’ll thank us for the tip later.

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T&F REFRESHERS

C Buns A Roses C Sweetly fragrant roses add an unusual flavour to sweets and iced drinks Photography: Corinne Vella

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REFRESHERS T&F

“Of all flowers, me thinks rose is best” William Shakespeare

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T&F REFRESHERS

Rose geranium ice cream with blackberries Strictly speaking, rose geraniums aren’t roses at all, but the oils in their softly fragrant leaves add the scent of roses to this recipe.

Preparation: 60 minutes, plus chilling time Serves 2-3 YOU WILL NEED

350ml thick cream 350ml milk 140g caster sugar 12 rose geranium leaves, harvested from pesticide-free plants 5 egg yolks 1 punnet blackberries 1 teaspoon rose petal syrup TO GARNISH

Rose geranium flowers, harvested from pesticide-free plants Frozen blackberries

1. Wash the blackberries

and pop them in the freezer for a few hours.

2. Combine the milk, cream and two-thirds of the leaves in a pan and warm it over a medium heat until it begins to simmer. Remove the pan from the heat and set it aside for a couple of hours to cool down and allow the flavours to infuse. 3. When the mixture has infused, rub the remaining leaves with the sugar into a large mixing bowl until they soften and tear. This will release the flavoured oils. 4. Put the pan of cream

mixture back on the heat and let it simmer.

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Beat the yolks into the flavoured sugar until light and a bit fluffy, then whisk in the hot cream mixture. 5. Pour the whisked

mixture back into the pan and stir it over a low heat until it thickens into custard. This should take about 8 minutes. The mixture should not be allowed to boil.

6. Set a bowl over a

container of iced water and strain the custard into it, stirring it gently until it cools down. Put the bowl into the freezer for an hour.

7. Meanwhile, juice the blackberries and stir in a teaspoonful of rose petal syrup. Take the bowl out of the freezer and use a fork to roughly break up the mixture and stir in the blackberry juice. Return the bowl to the freezer and repeat the process twice, without adding any more blackberry juice. 8. Transfer the ice

cream to an airtight container and leave it in the freezer for at least 2 hours to firm up.

9. Serve the ice cream

garnished with frozen blackberries and rose petal flowers.

REFRESHERS T&F

ROSE LEMOnADE The tart taste of lemonade can be sharp even when diluted. Rose petal syrup and rose water add another layer of flavour.

Preparation: 90 minutes, including chilling time Serves 8 YOU WILL NEED

Rose petal syrup 300g caster sugar 470ml water 470ml freshly squeezed lemon juice, strained 3 teaspoons rosewater TO SERVE

fresh mint sprigs ice cubes

1. Heat up the water until

it boils, then add the sugar and stir it until it dissolves. Set it aside to cool then chill it in the fridge for an hour.

2. Stir in the rose petal syrup until well combined, then stir in the lemon juice and rose water. Dilute the mixture to taste by adding chilled water. 3. Return the lemonade to the fridge and chill it for at least another 15 minutes. 4. Serve in glasses garnished with fresh mint sprigs and ice cubes.

THE ORIGINS OF ROSES

The earliest known fossil evidence of roses is several million years old. The flowers were first cultivated in the gardens of China some 5,000 years ago. Confucius wrote of roses growing in the imperial gardens some 500BC. From there, garden cultivation spread across the northern hemisphere.

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T&F REFRESHERS

Rose and raspberry ice cream 1. Combine the creams, milk

Serves 3 YOU WILL NEED

350ml thick cream 240ml milk 240 ml light cream 250-300g golden caster sugar, depending on your taste for sweetness 1 vanilla bean 2 tablespoons rose petal syrup 4 choux buns (see the recipe elsewhere in this feature) 1 small handful fresh raspberries TO SERVE

finely ground pistachio nuts rose petal syrup

and sugar in a pan and stir over a low heat until the sugar dissolves. Remove the pan from the heat.

2. Divide the mixture between two bowls 3. Halve the vanilla bean and scrape the contents into one of the bowls. Stir it in and let the mixture stand for 30 minutes to infuse and cool down.

4. When both bowls have cooled down, tear the choux buns into small pieces and stir them and the raspberries into the second bowl. 5. Put both bowls into

the freezer for an hour, then use a fork to roughly break up the mixture. Stir 1 tablespoonful of rose petal syrup into each bowl and return both to the freezer for 20 minutes. Repeat the process two more times without adding any more syrup.

6. Transfer the raspberry

ice cream to a serving bowl and smooth it down into an even layer. Now, transfer the rest of the ice cream to the same bowl and smooth it down using the back of a spoon. Seal the bowl and return it to the freezer for at least another two hours.

7. Serve the ice cream dusted with finely ground pistachio nuts with extra rose petal syrup on the side.

THE FRAGRANT CROP

Bulgaria and Turkey are among the world’s largest growers of damask roses. The Rose Damascena variety is cultivated for commercial use in an area close to Kazanlak and Karlovo in Bulgaria known as the “Valley of Roses”. The flowers are distilled to extract the essential oil known as “Bulgarian Rose Otto”, or attar of roses, which is used in perfumery and cosmetics. Roses sold as cut flowers are bought mainly in the EU and the US, but they are principally grown commercially in Ecuador, Colombia, Kenya, and Ethiopia.

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T&F

Choux buns with rose water cream YOU WILL NEED

100ml water 40g unsalted butter 50g plain flour, sifted 1 egg, beaten FOR THE FILLING

150ml double cream 2 tablespoons rose water 1 teaspoon rose petal syrup

1. Line a baking tray with

non-stick paper and preheat the oven to 200°C.

2. Cut the butter into small

pieces (it’s easier to do this when it’s cold) and

put it in a small pan with the water. Bring the water gently to the boil and allow the butter to melt. 3. Once the mixture is on a

rolling boil, tip in the sifted flour and quickly stir it in. Keep beating the mixture until it’s well combined. Remove the pan from the heat and let it cool down. 4. Once the mixture has cooled completely, slowly drizzle in the beaten egg while stirring. Stop adding egg once the mixture is smooth and shiny.

5. Transfer the mixture to a piping bag with a wide nozzle (about 1.5cm) and pipe mounds of dough onto the lined baking tray, leaving space in between. 6. Bake for 30 minutes.

Then, using the tip of a sharp knife, make a small hole in the side of each bun and return the tray to the oven for another 5 minutes. Transfer the buns to a wire rack to cool down.

7. Whip the cream until

it thickens. Whip in the rose petal syrup and stir in the rose water. Leave the flavoured cream in the fridge to chill for 30 minutes.

8. Slice open the choux

buns and remove any uncooked mixture. Spoon the cream onto the bun bases and top with the lids. Serve at once, lightly dusted with icing sugar.

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T&F REFRESHERS

Watermelon and rose iced tea Dried rose buds can be found in the middle eastern section of larger supermarkets. Their concentrated flavour lends an unusual note to this version of iced tea.

Preparation: 15 minutes, plus cooling time Serves 8 YOU WILL NEED

700ml water 2 Lady Grey tea bags 2 tablespoons dried rose buds 2.5Kg peeled watermelon, deseeded and roughly chopped 2 teaspoons rose water 470ml chilled mineral water TO SERVE

fresh lemon verbena sprigs dried rose buds ice cubes

1. Boil 700ml water and

pour it into a heatproof jug. Add the dried rosebuds and tea bags. Set the mixture aside to infuse for five minutes. Strain the liquid and set it aside to cool for 20-30 minutes.

2. Blend the watermelon until smooth and strain the liquid into the cooled infusion. 3. Stir in the rose water and chill the liquid for a couple of hours, then dilute the mixture to taste with chilled mineral water. 4. Serve the infusion over ice, garnished with sprigs of lemon verbena and dried rose buds.

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REFRESHERS T&F

Rose petal syrup Ready-made rose petal jam or syrup is difficult to source as an ingredient but can be easily made at home. Any unused syrup can be stored in the fridge for up to two months, or in the freezer for longer. YOU WILL NEED

350ml filtered water 2 cupfuls fragrant pink rose petals, harvested from pesticide-free plants 400g caster sugar 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1. Rinse the rose petals and pat them dry. Rub them

well with some of the sugar to release their oils.

2. Put the sugared petals and water in a pan and stir, on low heat, until the sugar dissolves. Turn up the heat until the liquid begins to simmer and let it boil gently for 15 minutes. The petals will lose their colour as they cook. 3. Add the freshly squeezed lemon juice. The liquid will turn a vibrant pink. Let the liquid simmer gently in the uncovered pan for another 30 minutes, then remove it from the heat and set it aside to cool.

ROSEWATER

The process of creating rose water through steam distillation was refined by Persian and Arab chemists in the medieval Islamic world. Rose water is distilled from the petals and sepals of the damask rose, also as a by-product of extracting the essential oil or attar of roses. It takes around 400 roses to produce two litres of rose water.

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T&F REFRESHERS

Rose syrup and pistachio ice cream

The nuttiness of pistachio and the sweetly fragrant flavour of roses are a refreshing combination.

Preparation: 60 minutes, plus chilling time Servings: 3-4 YOU WILL NEED

350ml thick cream 120ml light cream 120ml milk 150g golden caster sugar 70g pistachio nuts, finely ground 1 tablespoon rosewater 2 tablespoons rose petal syrup TO SERVE

whole, raw, unsalted pistachio nuts finely ground pistachio nuts rose petal syrup

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1. Combine the thick

cream, light cream, milk, and sugar in a pan. Cook over a medium heat until the sugar dissolves (2-3 minutes).

2. Remove from heat and stir in the ground pistachio nuts. 3. Let the mixture cool slightly and then place it in the fridge for 30 minutes to chill. 4. Using a balloon whisk, whip the mixture thoroughly until it fluffs up and stiffens. 5. Put the bowl in the

freezer. After an hour, use a fork to roughly break up the mixture and stir in the 2 tablespoons of rose petal syrup.

6. Put the bowl back in the

freezer for another hour and repeat the process two more times without adding more rose petal syrup.

7. Alternatively, pour the chilled mixture into an ice cream machine and let it churn automatically. Roughly stir in the rose petal syrup before putting the ice cream in the freezer. 8. Transfer the ice cream to an airtight container and put it in the freezer for at least another two hours to firm up. 9. Serve drizzled with

rose petal syrup and dusted with ground and whole pistachio nuts.

COOKING WITH ROSE PETALS

Rose petals are aromatic and slightly sweet. Most varieties are edible but the sweetly fragrant – notably, Damascena or damask roses - have the most flavour. Rose petals are used in cuisines across China, Southeast Asia and the Middle East. They can be eaten raw, stirred into salads, or cooked into a range of dishes, and to add flavour to or to garnish sweets and drinks.

100 days with Chef Alex Dilling ION - The Harbour presents 100 days with renowned Two Michelin Star Chef Alex Dilling Alex, previously Executive Chef of the two Michelin star restaurant, The Greenhouse, Mayfair, and widely seen as the UK’s next top chef, is bringing a new level of culinary skills to both Malta and ION - The Harbour. Boasting world-class design and stunning views of the Grand Harbour, ION – The Harbour offers unparalleled dining experiences and was recently awarded a Michelin star within less than six months of its opening in November 2020.

During his residency at ION – The Harbour, Alex is making the most of local, seasonal and artisanal ingredients that are bursting with Mediterranean flavour at this time of year. He is presenting a couple of his famous signature dishes, such as Hunter Chicken and Andignac Foie Gras with Black Truffle, giving some dishes a local touch by using ingredients sourced from Maltese producers, artisans and local fishermen. Limited availability.

For information and reservations please contact: dine@iontheharbour.com or call on +356 9911 0166

Speciality Coffee at Corinthia Palace

@josephinescoffee

PROMOTION T&F

Josephine’s for the Conscious Coffee Lover This summer, Malta will welcome a new, plantcentric coffee concept where ethically sourced coffee and high-quality, tasty treats are the order of the day. Welcome to Josephine’s at Corinthia Palace, a beautiful spot for coffee and pastries that nudge consumers towards a better world.

cup of coffee or tea seems like one of life’s most fundamental rituals. Yet, that daily cup owes everything to Mother Nature and the people who work the earth. That is why Josephine’s has made the health of our planet its driving force as it becomes Malta’s go-to place for a delicious, ethical cup of coffee. Launching in the coming weeks, Josephine’s is a speciality coffee concept devoted to sustainability and positively impacting the wellbeing of the world we live in. While radiating Corinthia Palace’s high product and service standards, Josephine’s will create coffees and cakes made from top-quality, plant-based ingredients that are sourced ethically, down to every last crumb and coffee bean. For Stefan Hogan, Corinthia Palace’s Executive Chef, the decision to move in this direction was an obvious one. “The world cannot produce enough food to maintain a proteincentric diet,” he says. “We need to move towards a more plantcentric diet. That said, you don’t have to follow a plant-centric diet or be vegan to come to Josephine’s. But if you want to try something that is both different and will make a difference, then Josephine’s has something for you.” When planning for Corinthia Palace’s new café, Hotel Manager Alexandra Pisani’s team set out to find a coffee brand that is both ethically sourced and new to Malta. They landed on Origin, one of the UK’s leading speciality coffee roasters that is B Corp Certified (a gold standard certification that measures a company’s social and environmental performance). The company curates coffee sourced from across the globe and works with reputable institutions and companies such as The British Library and Selfridges &Co.

This fusion of quality and ethics is at the core of every ingredient and product selected for Josephine’s, including its top-of-the-range, non-dairy chocolate and milks that are uncommonly frothable. Every treat at Josephine’s is plantbased and delicious. For Mark McBride, the Corinthia Palace’s pastry chef, developing these recipes has been a challenging yet rewarding journey, leading the pastry team to perfect alternatives to the conventional cake ingredients they are so accustomed to using. Meanwhile, the menu at Josephine’s will feature a selection of cakes fuelled by experimentation and curiosity, and which will be intentionally changed regularly. What flavours should one expect? Think pistachio, coconut milk, citrus, dates, orange blossom, oats, heritage grains, and chocolate – and that is just the start. “At Josephine’s you will experience products on par with non-plant-centric foods,” Stefan adds, which is not hard to do at Corinthia Palace, where the location only contributes to that sense of enjoyment. Here, customers can sip on their beverage within Josephine’s intimate space or surrounded by lush greenery in Corinthia Palace’s immaculate gardens. “We want to contribute to the wellbeing of the planet. Yes, perhaps this is a small way, but we have to start somewhere, and so can you,” Stefan concludes. n

For more information on Josephine’s or Corinthia Palace, visit www.corinthia.com/palace and @corinthiapalace and @josephinescoffee on Instagram.

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T&F IN SEASON

n w DBoY THE

A E S

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IN SEASON T&F

Fresh fish and seafood served by the sea is as close to a mouthful of summer as you can get. Food by Michael Diacono, Chef Patron, Giuseppi’s Bar and Bistro Styling and photography: Brian Grech Wine recommendation: Andrew Azzopardi Props: Taste&Flair Beach towels: Dyori

This July’s feature is not just another collection of recipes. These dishes are naturally suited for the silly season: light, fresh and fragrant, all fish and seafood-based. ISSUE 139 JULY 2021

T&F IN SEASON

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IN SEASON T&F

Smoked Octopus Sliders A different and fun way to serve octopus, these are ideal as a light teaser before a BBQ. You can smoke the octopus in a conventional oven, but will obviously need a good extractor or very well-ventilated kitchen.

Serves 6 Preparation and cooking time: 120 minutes Recommended wine: Young, oaked Chardonnay or a white Rhône blend such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc YOU WILL NEED

1kg ready frozen octopus 2 bay leaves ½ lemon 4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 handful parsley, finely chopped chili 4 tablespoons extravirgin olive oil salad leaves 6 to 8 dry pine cones for smoking 6 mini buns or brioche EASY HUMMUS

1 tin chickpeas, drained juice of 2 lemons 2 cloves garlic, peeled 100ml tahini ½ teapoon cumin seeds 1 pinch chili salt and pepper

1. Place the frozen octopus into a pot and

cover it with water. Add the bay leaves and ½ lemon. Place the pot on the heat and bring it to the boil. Lower the heat, cover the pot and let it simmer for one hour until the octopus is tender.

2. Turn the heat off. Let the octopus cool in the water for 30 minutes, and then drain it. Remove the beak, if it is still there, and cut the octopus into smaller pieces. 3. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Transfer the octopus to a shallow baking tray. Add the chopped garlic, parsley and extra-virgin olive oil. Add seasoning and mix it all well. Place the baking tray in the oven and let the octopus bake for 8 minutes. Meanwhile, line a small baking tray well with foil and place the pine cones in this. 4. Turn down the oven heat to the lowest setting and turn off the fan. Place the tray of pine cones on the bottom of the oven. Using a blow lamp, carefully set the pine cones on fire and quickly shut the oven door. The fire will extinguish and create smoke in the oven. If not, turn the fan on to help. Smoke the octopus for 5 minutes, then remove it from the oven and let it cool. (The oven will need to be rinsed afterwards to remove the smoky scent). 5. To prepare the hummus, simply process all

the ingredients together in a food processor.

6. To serve, split the buns in half and

toast them slightly. Spread the cut surfaces with hummus and add some of the warm, smoked octopus. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil or salsa verde and garnish with some salad leaves. Use a large decorative wooden pick to secure the sliders and serve them immediately.

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Aljotta A good Aljotta is quite hard to beat and I have been asked many times for my recipe. What is the secret? Not much really except for using the right ingredients, only fresh herbs and a really good intense fish stock. Ask your fishmonger to clean and scale the fish, but leave the heads on. This soup is best served fresh. It will keep well in the fridge for a couple of days, but will lose its vibrant colour.

Serves 6-8 Preparation and cooking time: 120 minutes Recommended wine: Italian Viognier or French Pinot Gris FOR THE FISH STOCK

1kg small fish - I used skorfon (scorpion fish) and gurnard (gallina) 1.5l water sea salt and pepper corns 2 fresh bay leaves ¼ lemon 1 small onion, peeled and halved FOR THE SOUP

4 tablespoons extravirgin olive oil 1 onion, peeled and chopped 1 small fennel bulb or ½ a large one, cleaned and chopped into small dice 8 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped chili - add as much as you wish 2 tablespoons tomato paste 4 large tomatoes, chopped 2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint 8-10 basil leaves, torn 1 handful fresh parsley, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh marjoram salt and pepper

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1. First, make the fish stock. Place

the cleaned fish into a large pot and add the water and the rest of the ingredients. Place the pot on the heat and bring it to the boil. Reduce the heat once a rolling boil is reached and then let the pot simmer for just 20 minutes.

2. Remove the pot from the heat and let it cool. Next, run the liquid through a fine sieve, pressing on the fish to extract all their goodness. Discard the fish and reserve the fish stock. 3. Now, heat the olive oil in a large pot, add the chopped onion and fennel and stir fry for 4 minutes until they soften. Add the garlic and chili and fry for 2 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook for a further 2-3 minutes. 4. Add the chopped tomatoes and stir fry for a minute or two. Add the potatoes, mix well, then pour in the fish stock and stir. 5. Bring the pot to the boil,

then let it simmer for 20 minutes. Add the fresh herbs and check the seasoning.

6. Serve the soup immediately with

lemon wedges and warm ftira.

IN SEASON T&F

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T&F IN SEASON

Fresh mussels with ‘nduja and butter beans. Superb flavours and textures with a broth crying out for dunking into with Maltese bread. ‘nduja is a spicy sausage-cum-paste from southern Italy and is easily found in most larger food shops or delis.

Serves 4 as a starter Preparation and cooking time: 30 minutes Recommended wine: Côtes de Provence rosé or unoaked Chenin Blanc

1. Pour the extra-virgin olive

YOU WILL NEED

2. Add the tomato paste and cook the mixture for 2 minutes. Tip in the halved cherry tomatoes and let them cook until they soften.

5 tablespoons extravirgin olive oil 4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 30g ‘nduja ½ teaspoon fennel seeds 1 tablespoon tomato paste 16 cherry tomatoes, halved 8 basil leaves, torn 1 tin butter beans, drained 1 kg cleaned fresh mussels 1 glass dry white wine 1 handful fresh parsley, chopped

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oil into a large pot that has a tight-fitting lid. Heat up the oil and add the garlic. Let the garlic cook for a few seconds then add the ‘nduja and fennel seeds. Stir, while frying, until the ‘nduja melts down.

3. Add the basil and butter beans and stir fry on high heat for 2 minutes. 4. Add the mussels, stir and pour the white wine over the mixture. Cover the pot and let it cook until the shellfish are all open (about 5-6 minutes). 5. Sprinkle with parsley

and serve at once with plenty of Maltese bread “per fare la scarpetta”.

IN SEASON T&F

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T&F IN SEASON

Crostini with fresh tuna, tuna mayo, bottarga and cocoa Another no-cooking recipe to serve as a quirky but delicious antipasto. Do not prepare these early. Assemble them just before serving, for the best result, and use Malta-grown capers as they taste so much better.

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IN SEASON T&F

Serves 8-10 Preparation time: 20 minutes Recommended wine: Italian rosé/Chiaretto YOU WILL NEED

1 baguette or focaccia 200g very fresh tuna, thinly sliced bottarga shavings bitter cocoa to dust FOR THE TUNA MAYONNAISE

300g good, bottled tuna in extra-virgin olive oil 3 hard boiled eggs, (yolks only) 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar 6 anchovy fillets juice of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon capers ½ glass extra-virgin olive oil (use what was in the capers jar and top it up with your own) 2 tablespoons water salt and pepper TO GARNISH

deep-fried capers extra-virgin olive oil

1. To make the tuna mayonnaise,

place all the ingredients in a food processor and blend well.

2. Slice the bread and toast or grill it. Top the toasted/grilled bread with the tuna slices and dollop with the tuna mayonnaise. 3. Sprinkle the crostini with bottarga shavings, and dredge them lightly with bitter cocoa powder. 4. Garnish with deep-fried capers and a light drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and serve immediately.

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IN SEASON T&F

Carpaccio of scallops and prawns with crispy guanciale and toasted hazelnuts Not much cooking is required here. Good ingredients and plating skills are what make this simple dish both tasty and pleasing to the eye.

Serves 4 Preparation time: 30 minutes Recommended wine: Fiano Di Avellino DOCG or “traditional method” sparkling wine YOU WILL NEED

8 very fresh scallops, coral removed (keep this and use it in a pasta sauce) 16 fresh red prawns, shelled and deveined sea salt flakes and freshly milled black pepper 120g guanciale, cut into small lardons 60g peeled hazelnuts 2 radishes parsley oil (see the stracciatella recipe in this feature) or salsa verde TO GARNISH

a few micro greens

1. Heat a non-stick pan

and add the guanciale. Let it cook to render the fat and crisp up the meat. This will take a few minutes. Remove the meat from the pan and let it drain on kitchen towel.

2. Wipe the pan clean and use it to dry-toast the hazelnuts for a minute or two. Leave them to cool, then reserve a few for the garnish and crush the rest. 3. Chop the prawns. Place them in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper. Transfer the seasoned prawns into 4 small, round moulds and press them down gently. 4. Slice the fresh scallops into thin rounds and arrange them onto 4 chilled serving plates. Place a prawn mould face down in the centre of each plate and remove the container. 5. Slice the radishes thinly

and add them to the plate. Garnish with the crispy guanciale and hazelnuts. Finally, drizzle the plates with parsley oil, decorate them with micro greens and serve at once.

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T&F IN SEASON

Torched stracciatella with fresh sea urchins and samphire Stracciatella is strands of mozzarella di bufala leftover during the cheese-making process, soaked in cream made from buffalo milk. It is what Mozzarella Burrata is filled with. The saltiness of the sea urchins and the samphire, a sea weed also known as sea asparagus, marry perfectly with simple creamy cheese. No cooking is required here. All you need to do is assemble the dish.

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Serves 6 as a starter Preparation: 10 minutes Recommended wine: refreshing Vermentino di Sardegna or, if you’re feeling daring, an Off-dry German or Alsace Riesling YOU WILL NEED

500g stracciatella 2 small tubs fresh sea urchin roe 100g fresh samphire salt and pepper extra-virgin olive oil or parsley oil sea salt flakes and freshly milled black pepper

1. To make parsley oil, blanch

fresh parsley then cool it very fast in iced water. Drain the parsley well and let it dry on a kitchen towel. Process the parsley with extravirgin olive oil and then run it through a fine sieve.

2. Place the stracciatella on a serving platter. Use a kitchen blow torch to scorch it lightly. 3. Spoon the sea urchins over the stracciatella and scatter with samphire. Season with salt and pepper then drizzle with extravirgin olive oil or parsley oil.

Cheers with

Finkbräu

Find it in our Stores.

Finkbräu

Pils Beer 4.7% Vol.

0.5L can

www.lidl.com.mt

1L = 1.10 €

T&F FRESH

SIX SUMMER Fragrant, fresh ingredients tossed with tangy dressing and

SALADS stirred with summer herbs. What more could you want in a salad?

Food and photography: Claire Borg

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Persian chopped salad Crunchy and colourful, each bite of this salad is a burst of flavour. Don’t skimp on the quality of the vinegar. Using a good quality product really does make a difference.

Serves 4 Preparation: 30 minutes YOU WILL NEED

1 yellow pepper 8-10 radishes 1 long cucumber 150g canned chick peas, washed and drained 1 very small onion 1 handful of fresh mint 1 handful of parsley 1 small bunch of dill 1 clove of garlic, minced 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil some salt and pepper 2 teaspoons za’atar ½ teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon sesame seeds

1. First, prepare the vegetables. Remove the stem and seeds from the yellow pepper and dice it. Trim the radishes and cut them into quarters. Peel, deseed and dice the cucumber. Peel and finely chop the onion. 2. Thoroughly wash the herbs, shake them to remove excess water and pat them dry. Trim off the tougher ends of the stems and finely chop all the rest. 3. In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, sugar, za’atar, salt and pepper. 4. Add all the remaining ingredients and mix them together. Scoop the salad onto a serving platter and serve it with sprinkled with sesame seeds.

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T&F FRESH

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FRESH T&F

Cannellini bean salad This is perfect as a light meal or to serve as a starter. It’s filled with the fragrance of fresh herbs and the tang of lemon and sumac.

Serves 4 • Preparation: 20 minutes

1. Hard boil the eggs, then set them aside.

YOU WILL NEED

2. Peel and finely slice the onion. Sprinkle it with sumac and keep it in a bowl while you prepare the rest of the salad.

8-10 black olives, pitted 1 small red onion 2 eggs 350g cannellini beans 15-20 cherry tomatoes 1 small bunch parsley 1 small bunch fresh dill some mint leaves 6 tablespoons extravirgin olive oil juice of ½ a lemon black pepper 1½ teaspoons sumac

Once they are cool, peel and quarter them.

3. To make the dressing, finely chop the herbs and mix half with the olive oil and lemon juice. 4. Place the dressing in a large bowl and mix in the remaining ingredients, except for the eggs. Stir everything together well, then add the onions and mix everything again. 5. Spoon the salad onto a large platter

and garnish it with the remaining herbs and eggs. Serve immediately.

Sumac Sumac berries grow in wild rocky areas around the Mediterranean and in parts of Iran. The harvested berries are dried and finely ground. The texture is akin to ground nuts, rather than powdery. It smells and tastes similar to lemon but is less sour. When added to food, it brings out the natural flavours, rather than changing the flavour profile of the dish. Ready ground sumac can be found in specialized grocery shops and in larger supermarkets.

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T&F FRESH

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FRESH T&F

Egyptian barley salad Barley works wonderfully as a salad ingredient when cooked properly. The grains should be soft but retain their ‘bite’, and should be left to cool completely before being made up into the salad.

Serves 6 Preparation: 30 minutes YOU WILL NEED

150g barley 80g raisins 80g shelled pistachios 5 spring onions 1 pomegranate 250g feta cheese, diced 1 small bunch coriander 1 bunch mint leaves ¼ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon cumin 2 tablespoon pomegranate molasses 4 tablespoon extravirgin olive oil salt and pepper

1. Boil the barley until cooked

but still firm. Drain it and set it aside to cool. Meanwhile, prepare the other ingredients.

2. Trim off the tough part of the coriander stems. Pluck the mint leaves from their stems. Wash the herbs thoroughly under running water. Spread them out on a kitchen towel, gently pat them dry and then chop them finely. 3. Chop the raisins and roughly chop the pistachios. Dice the feta cheese. 4. Trim the spring onions. Remove the white part and finely chop the green part. 5. Peel the pomegranate

and separate the arils.

6. Mix the oil, molasses, cumin and

cinnamon together to make the dressing.

7. Toss all the salad ingredients together in a bowl, drizzle it with the salad dressing, and stir it again. Turn it out onto a serving dish and season to taste.

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T&F FRESH

Fig, black bean and hazelnut carrot salad This unusual combination of ingredients is packed with flavour. Don’t be put off by the long list. You’ll have most of them in your store cupboard already and it doesn’t take long to prepare and assemble this salad.

Serves 6 Preparation: 30 minutes YOU WILL NEED

5-6 carrots 1 large can of black beans 100g roasted hazelnuts 8-10 dried figs 1 small handful of pomegranate arils 50g pine nuts 1 small bunch of dill 8-10 basil leaves 1 small handful each of mint, coriander and parsley ¼ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon cumin a sprinkle of turmeric 1 teaspoon grated ginger 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoons honey juice of ½ a lemon salt and pepper

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1. Remove the tough stems of

the herbs, wash the rest, pat them dry and chop them finely.

2. Roughly crush the hazelnuts and trim and slice the dried figs. Drain the black beans and wash them thoroughly under running water. 3. Peel and grate the carrots. 4. Make the dressing by whisking together the spices, ginger, honey, lemon and oil in a large bowl. 5. Mix in all the other ingredients

and toss them together well.

6. Scoop the salad onto a salad

dish and serve it with a few more chopped figs on top.

FRESH T&F

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T&F FRESH

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FRESH T&F

Roasted cauliflower and chick pea salad Mixing textures and flavours is the secret of a satisfying salad. No bite of this one can ever seem boring.

Serves 4 Preparation: 30 minutes YOU WILL NEED

1 small cauliflower, cut into florets 1 small can of chickpeas 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ¼ teaspoon turmeric ¼ teaspoon cumin ¼ teaspoon sumac ¼ teaspoon ground coriander 1 teaspoon salt 100g cooked quinoa 50g pistachios 1 small handful of mint leaves 1 small handful of parsley leaves 1 tablespoon tahini 4 tablespoon plain yoghurt juice of ½ a lemon a sprinkle of za’atar

1. Mix the spices and the olive oil

together in a mixing bowl. Tip in the cauliflower and chick peas and toss them together. Season with salt.

2. Put the cauliflower onto a baking tray and roast in a hot oven set on 200°C for about 15 minutes. The cauliflower should start to darken at edges. 3. While the cauliflower cooks, make the dressing. Stir the tahini, yoghurt and lemon juice together and then whisk them until thoroughly combined. Set the dressing aside while you assemble the salad. 4. Mix the chickpeas, cauliflower, cooked quinoa, pistachios and fresh herbs together and place them on a platter. Drizzle with the salad dressing and sprinkle with za’atar just before serving.

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T&F FRESH

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FRESH T&F

Grilled aubergine and spelt salad Use freshly cooked aubergine rather than pre-cooked preserved aubergine. It takes a bit more time but it’s what makes this salad worthwhile.

Serves 4 Preparation: 40 minutes YOU WILL NEED

1 aubergine extra-virgin olive oil salt and pepper 1 small can cooked spelt 50g toasted hazelnuts 1 large tomato 1 very small onion 10-15 basil leaves, washed and patted dry a pinch of fresh dill 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar 1 small clove garlic TO GARNISH

Whole basil leaves

1. Deseed and finely chop the tomato.

Peel and finely dice the onion. Finely chop the basil leaves.

2. Mince the garlic and mix it with 6 tablespoons of olive oil. Thinly slice the aubergine and toss it in the garlic oil. Sprinkle the slices with salt and grill them using a griddle pan or on a barbecue until they turn golden. 3. Meanwhile mix the vinegar, sugar and 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large bowl. Add the herbs, diced tomato, onion and the aubergine once it is ready. 4. Toss the ingredients well together, then mix in the cooked spelt and hazelnuts. Serve with whole basil leaves on top.

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T&F PROMOTION

The Evolution of

OXFORD HOUSE

Rooted in innovation I

nnovation is a common buzz word in today’s world. Everything is evolving, things are changing at a pace faster than most can keep up with, and the lives of many have become a sprint against time. Technology – the root of these changes - is making aspects of our lives easier while complicating things and often distracting us from what really matters to us. What about our connection to nature, the people in our lives and our inner voice that might be begging us to let loose and get creative by doodling on a scrapbook or cooking up a masterpiece in the kitchen? In the age of Bitcoin, space travel and self-driving electric cars, it’s easy to forget the intricacies and beauty of simplicity. At Oxford House, we thrive on the intricacies of simplicity. We want to make sure that when you are at home, you are

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at peace and grounded, and we do that by making sure that the technology and innovation we provide you with is so good that it puts comfort at the core of your home. Whether this is the invisible but valuable VitaFresh feature in your Bosch fridge, 4D hot air in your Bosch oven, or the AutoDry sensor drying system in your Bosch washing machine, these technologies come together to enrich your life at home. Setting the stage Our new showroom has been designed to reflect the evolution of the company and the brands and products we promote. We went back to basics with a minimal design, reminiscent of the evolving trends in design while ensuring that the beauty and functionality of our appliances, among other products, can be

PROMOTION T&F

presented in a way that our esteemed clients can enjoy and find comfort in. In the words of Alan Watts: “The only way to make sense out of change is to plunge into it, move with it, and join the dance” ... And we did. We set the stage with deep greys, beautiful maple accents and LED glows that liven up our space and represent the sophisticated vibrancy of our team and who we are. From a design perspective, this allows our eye-catching appliances to bask in the presence they deserve. Our architects managed to create visual harmony which was a priority for this new design. On a deeper level, this is a reflection of the changes the company is making to secure its leading position in the industry of appliances, kitchens, bedrooms and office solutions.

From Oxford House to you At Oxford House, our primary loyalty is to our clients and staff. Our premises are where we greet and serve our esteemed clientele and offer them a positive experience when shopping with us. To top it off, we bring you our Summer Sale which is ongoing till the 14th of August – where you can find the best appliances, kitchens and more at even better value for money. For more information visit www.oxfordhouse.com.mt or the Oxford House showroom at Triq L-Imdina, Zone 2, Central Business District, Birkirkara CBD 2010 between 09:00hrs and 19:00hrs and on Saturday, from 09:00hrs until 13:00hrs.

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T&F CONTEMPORARY

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CONTEMPORARY T&F

THE TREE HOUSE When nature gives you trees, fit yourself around them. This house does exactly that. Architecture: ÁBATON Team: Camino Alonso, Carlos Alonso, Ignacio Lechón, Fernando Alonso, Cristina Peréz, Yolanda Bellosta Photography: Belén Imaz • Interior Design: BATAVIA

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T&F CONTEMPORARY

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CONTEMPORARY T&F

all, majestic, and evergreen, holm oaks are native to the Mediterranean region. They spring from acorns that mature over a single summer to shoot up several storeys high over a span of decades. When large, mature trees dot a building plot, the right thing to do is to design the building to fit around them This stand-alone house was built on a plot whose topography was redefined. All of its elements, including its entrances, were positioned to integrate the house within the surrounding landscape, preserving the existing holm oaks and linking them to the building. The house faces south, with the private areas set within the interior of the site. The living spaces and household service areas are positioned towards the exterior, facing the largest garden area and soaking up the sunlight. The building itself is laid out in an “L” shape, with the garden area becoming more intimate the further it is from the street. A volumetric cube two heights above ground level is built on a reinforced concrete slab in the basement, supporting a structure of load-bearing walls made of laminated wood (CLT). The construction system, together with the aerothermic system and low temperature floor heating, provides high thermal efficiency.

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T&F CONTEMPORARY

he living room, kitchen, outdoor dining room and playing area flow seamlessly together, while the upper floors and holm oaks are set back to the edges of the plot, creating a green curtain that shields the house from noise and street traffic. At the south end of the plot, the only volume is sunken and topped with a green roof, which visually extends the garden southwards to where the swimming pool is located. On the upper floor, the rooms present themselves as small oases, each with its own view of the outdoor space. The result is a well-lit dwelling where the presence of the garden is felt from every room and where the established oak trees are always visible. The various uses of the rooms on the upper floor are wrapped into volumes of varying size, linked at different heights to create a

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dynamic effect.The south-facing master bedroom, in the most private area of the house, has an open bathroom and two dressing rooms. The three other rooms each have their own bathroom and an independent terrace. Two perpendicular volumes of differing heights are joined to the sunken volume, forming an open courtyard that faces south and east, optimising the building’s orientation and views while minimising its presence on the plot. One volume contains the living room, built as the base of a perpendicular element over which the bedrooms are suspended. The stairs from the ground floor to the first floor are in double-stepped concrete, a quasisculptural form that emerges from the building, allowing natural light to flood the rooms.

CONTEMPORARY T&F

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T&F CONTEMPORARY

he layout of the house is designed for each room to have the best possible orientation and views and to maximise natural light. In the basement there is a garage, a laundry room, a gym, a sauna, storage rooms and two other rooms linked to patios that provide them with natural light. The living room, dining room, outdoor lounge and kitchen are located on the ground floor, with the kitchen directly connected to the garden. A pergola shields an outdoor dining area from the direct sunlight and links the main building to the half-buried volume that houses the chill-out area, cinema and games room linked to the swimming pool. n

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T&F VALLETTA

THEEVOLUTION OFHERITAGE Architecture and images: AP Valletta • Project lead: Cynthia de Giorgio Architects: Konrad Buhagiar, Danica Mifsud • Interview: Corinne Vella

“Cultural heritage is, in its broadest sense, both a product and a process, which provides societies with a wealth of resources that are inherited from the past, created in the present and bestowed for the benefit of future generations.”UNESCO

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VALLETTA T&F

uilt heritage begins with vision – a concept germinated by needs or desires rooted in time and place and transformed into aspirational architecture. At the heart of Valletta, the driving need for a new building was a display space for the tapestries that had been brought to Malta from Brussels in 1702 during the reign of Grand Master Ramon Perellos y Rocaful of the Order of St John. The tapestries, important artefacts in the custodianship of the St John’s Co-Cathedral Foundation, once hung in the nave of the church itself on the feast of St John’s. Although they have been restored, they remain too fragile to hang there and need to be displayed in a space fit for the purpose. The existing museum structure had become totally outdated, so it was not just a matter of refurbishing the space. The number and size of the artefacts and the planned display pattern showed there was a need for a new building extension designed around the collection itself.

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T&F VALLETTA

THEEVOLUTION OFHERITAGE

To articulate the façade, the architects chose a classical solution using stone pilasters of varying heights, creating a trompe l’oeil effect of depth and void.

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VALLETTA T&F

“W

e already had a set idea of how to place the objects and the layout of the display,” says the Foundation’s CEO & Curator, Cynthia de Giorgio. “The total space we needed includes spaces which did not yet exist, so we asked AP Valletta to design them.” “Some artefacts were in storage and not exhibited, the Bartolott crypt was not open to the public, and the Carapecchia wings, the two long loggias along Merchants Street and Republic street, did not form part of the Museum,” says Konrad Buhagiar, AP Valletta’s executive director. “To exhibit the tapestries, we needed to find a space similar to the nave of the Church. This was only available on the Merchant Street side, where the first floor was still to be built. Initial exercises showed that all the tapestries could be exhibited in a large hall to be newly built in this space.”

The Capella Ardente, a funerary sculpture, has been restored.

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T&F VALLETTA

THEEVOLUTION OFHERITAGE

he plans for the UNESCO-approved project – Valletta is a World Heritage site – are spread across the table as we speak. The principal access to the new building extension will be through the existing archways on Merchants Street, into a lobby area created below the new tapestry chamber and it will be separated from the existing courtyard by a glass partition that will preserve the original image of the courtyard, beneath which lies a burial ground. For most of living memory this has been an open space, the several houses that once stood there, three to four stories high, having been bombed in the last World War. The sensitivities towards the site mean that works in the area have to be conducted with particular care. To resolve the dilemma of archaeological value versus intervention, AP Valletta designed concrete piles to be installed to contain the backfill of the burial site, ensuring that it will not be disturbed while the new extension’s foundations are being laid and that future archeological excavations can take place.

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DEEP NATURE SPA AT THE PHOENICIA. DESIGNED BY AP VALLETTA

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T&F VALLETTA

THEEVOLUTION OFHERITAGE

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VALLETTA T&F

o the right of the entrance lobby, a spiral staircase will wind upwards from the subterranean gallery to the tapestry chamber overhead. Exposure to daylight is a risk for the tapestries, so the plans for the new chamber do not include windows or doors. Rather than entering the chamber through an opening in the wall, visitors will access it through its floor, up the custom-built staircase that will wind around a platform passenger lift, the first of its kind on the islands. The staircase is designed as a giant pigmented concrete bell, rising up through the ground of the chamber. Konrad Buhagiar describes the feeling as “going back in time, a reminder of entering through Malta’s prehistoric temples”, the stretched coil of the staircase itself having been inspired by their spiral motif.

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T&F VALLETTA

THEEVOLUTION OFHERITAGE

space to the right of the staircase, on an intermediate level right beneath the tapestry chamber, has been carved out for an exhibition area for the museum’s collection of illuminated choral books. The display is as much about the music represented in the books as it is about the illuminations themselves. Visitors will be able to enjoy the sight of the colourful illuminations while listening to the choral music they represent.

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T&F VALLETTA

THEEVOLUTION OFHERITAGE

he decision to seal off the tapestry chamber introduced another architectural problem: how to articulate the blank façade that faces the street. The architects chose a classical solution using stone pilasters of varying heights and rotated by 45 degrees, whose shadows give rhythm to the façade and will create a trompe l’oeil effect where the solid looks like a void, thus creating an illusion of depth where none exists. This effect will be heightened by the shifting play of light and shadow throughout the day and at different times of the year. As the distinctive architecture of the new building reaches out to the future, it underscores the fact that heritage is not static but evolves over time – much, in fact, like the city of Valletta itself.

The new Vestment Hall will offer visitors an improved experience.

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In the Tapestry Chamber, the collection of tapestries will be displayed as they once were in the nave of the Church.

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T&F VALLETTA

THEEVOLUTION OFHERITAGE

The St Jerome room in the Caravaggio wing of the museum.

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Illucidare Special Prize

P Valletta has been shortlisted for the Heritage-led Innovation category of the second edition of the Illucidare Special Prizes Europa Nostra Awards. The Valletta Local Council nominated the firm for its numerous projects across Malta’s capital, which serve as a reminder of the intangible benefits that rigorous design and heritage-related processes generate for a city and its community. The Illucidare Jury was especially appreciative of AP Valletta’s dynamic perspective on heritage, saying: “Its work is rooted in the theoretical principle that heritage is not static but rather in constant evolution. The firm has made Valletta into its living lab for testing new heritage ideas.” The winners of the Illucidare Special Prizes will be announced in autumn at the European Heritage Awards Ceremony in Venice.

About the Illucidare Special Prizes Illucidare aims to make heritage-led innovation and international relations in Europe an example for sustainable development and international cooperation through a diversity of collaborative actions. The Illucidare Special Prizes are supported by the EU’s Horizon 2020 Research and Innovation programme, in addition to the EU’s Creative Europe Programme for culture and the audiovisual sectors, which supports the European Heritage Awards/ Europa Nostra Awards.

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T&F PROMOTION

AX Construction

Referencing process during dismantling works to ensure that all stones are placed back in their original position.

Building our Future, Restoring our Heritage

X Construction has recently been entrusted with the extension and restoration works at the St John’s CoCathedral in Valletta, a building of great historical, cultural, and architectural significance, embodying centuries of Maltese heritage. Built between 1572 and 1577 by the Knights of Malta, the Cathedral is considered to be one of the finest examples of high Baroque architecture in Europe. Extensive complex works include the restoration of the church’s existing exhibition areas, new foundations and construction of the tapestry chamber, and the historical façade along the building’s perimeter. The project will also see the construction of a new exhibition hall within the vicinity of the Cathedral’s Oratory and Bartolott Crypt to house the priceless tapestries. “This construction and restoration project marks another important milestone in AX Group’s long-term vision of regenerating value to our beloved capital city. Our team understands the immensity of this project and we’re eagerly applying our skills, knowledge, and experience to work on building this iconic national landmark that will house the beautiful tapestries,” says Ms Denise Micallef Xuereb, Director of Construction and Development at AX Group. With great responsibility, AX Construction systematically ensures that proper and reasonable steps are taken at different stages of the project in order to avoid undue

inconvenience to the business community. This includes carrying out considerable works at night. Additionally, AX Construction’s team of experts in project management are coordinating and creating synergy with teams of engineers, restorers, archaeologists, stonemasons, and highly specialised construction professionals who are all contributing to complete this very delicate, complex and long-awaited extension to St John’s Co-Cathedral museum. Founded by visionary entrepreneur Angelo Xuereb in 1976, AX Construction is a leading construction company in Malta specialising in civil engineering, restoration, project management, and turnkey assignments across a diverse range of industry sectors. Years of experience combined with the exceptional workmanship of the team has given AX Construction the vision, confidence, and, above all, the essential assets and skills to deliver complex construction and restoration projects of prestigious national value. AX Construction continues to invest in its workforce by training a new generation of builders in the Maltese tradition of limestone masonry and the ongoing focus is on the level of workmanship, attention to detail, and expertise in the conservation of national heritage in stone. It is this concurrent commitment to both legacy and innovation that allows AX Construction to fulfill its mission statement of “Building our future, restoring our heritage’’. n Left: Works being done through the night to avoid undue inconvenience to the business community. Right: Foundation strengthening works underway following thorough geo-technical investigative works.

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T&F OUTDOORS

Mediterranean Gardens The Mediterranean garden is based on practicality, but not at the cost of pleasure. Megan Mallia explores its mythology and reality.

But what makes a Mediterranean garden? There is some armth, olives and magenta bougainvillea ran as far truth in the stereotype. Typically, the Mediterranean garden as the boundary would allow them. It was an indoor Mediterranean biome in a far-from-Mediterranean is drought-tolerant and low maintenance, with plants that place, the separation between the two environments a mere can cope with the dry heat of summer and the wet weather artificial see-through membrane. Overlooking the titanic in winter. Bougainvillea (Brazil in origin, Mediterranean by minotaur and other mythical beasts in that setting, it felt a adoption) and olive trees clearly feature, as do oleander, little bit like home. pomegranate, laurel, and a host of other trees. The Mediterranean garden is something The reason why so many of its trees are we tend to take for granted, given that it is harvestable lies in an axiom of the archetypal embedded in our cultural fabric. But to an Mediterranean garden: it is based on outsider’s eye, it is easy to imagine that it sits practicality, but not at the cost of pleasure. comfortably with stereotypes of bohemian The garden is functional because it bears blouses, white and blue palettes, figs fit to fruit and other crops, has plenty of patches of bursting with their own fertility, and dappled shade and is able to hold its own in drought shade in olive groves. Literature, film and and scorching hot summers. It is appealing other works of art have played a major because of its colours, texture, and variety. Audrey Hepburn role in transforming the Mediterranean The mythology woven into many of region into the archetype of leisure, liberty the Mediterranean’s plants is captivating, and hedonism. Stories always seem to play out against a steeping the garden in historical and cultural significance. backdrop of natural elements, whether in a garden or out in Myth from classical antiquity is intrinsically tied to the region the wildness of nature. – Gozo is often said to be Ogygia, the mythical island on which

“To plant a garden is to believe in tomorrow.”

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Odysseus encountered Calypso in Homer’s epic Odyssey. The pomegranate is symbolic of life and regeneration because of its role in the ancient Greek tale of Persephone, goddess of the spring; the olive has connotations of victory, from Athena’s own tree winning against Poseidon’s salt spring in the contest for the naming of Athens; the bay laurel symbolises victory everlasting from the myth of Apollo and Daphne. There was a particular fascination with Mediterranean plants back in the Dutch Golden Age, around the seventeenth century, when spices, silks, gems and other treasures of the world flowed into Dutch ports. To own a garden was a luxury only the wealthy could afford, and to own plants from far off places was a way to appear worldly. Such a garden is perhaps comparable to the Renaissance cabinet of curiosities, a collection of curios and oddities that was really an exhibit of its owner’s apparent worldliness. Mediterranean flora had a place in gardens of the Dutch Golden Age, no doubt because it was a taste of the exotic. Garden owners obtained their specimens by developing networks of collectors and botanists, acquiring an understanding of those plants as they did so.

To own a garden was a luxury only the wealthy could afford, and to own plants from far off places was a way to appear worldly.

The olive has connotations of victory, from Athena’s own tree winning against Poseidon’s salt spring in the contest for the naming of Athens. With some thought, a garden in the Mediterranean, striking a balance between function and form, is easy to achieve. Many species of cacti and succulents thrive in our climate and are gorgeous in their diversity. Grown in terracotta pots, both plants and pots age beautifully and give a garden texture, as well as a natural, romantic feel. Citrus trees provide pops of colour and plenty of fruit to fill your bowl, and with luck an olive tree will bear delectable droplets of green. If you wish for a tree but lack the space, consider planting dwarf varieties. The miniature pomegranate grows the same brilliant orange flowers as its regularly-sized counterpart does, and these eventually develop into fairy-sized fruit. Conversely, oleander fills a space with a cloud of dreamy blossom when mature. Add splashes of powder blue to walls by trailing plumbago, and dashes of purple to soil with Lavandula angustifolia, true lavender, the type that does best in hot Mediterranean summers. And, of course, bougainvillea never ceases to beautify a space. Water it sparsely and it will reward you with a flush of its iconic blooms. n

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T&F WINE

CHOOSING WINE GLASSES

Not all wine glasses are made alike. Andrew Azzopardi has some advice on picking the right one to make the wine shine. love the dinner-set my wife and I put on our wedding list. The plates are chic, but timeless, and the napkin rings are gorgeous. The cutlery set is stylish, yet comfortable, and the salt and pepper cruets are aesthetically pleasing. In fact, I’d probably have said the same for any of the dinner sets we shortlisted, but when it came to the wine glasses, it was not just about how visually pleasing they were, but all about function. My wife is an interior designer, and it would have been rather silly for me to contradict her taste and style, except when it came to choosing the wine glasses. That is my territory, so I had to set some ground rules. I cannot imagine having to drink some of my favourite wines from an aesthetically beautiful, but useless wineglass. The glass is an instrument that allows the wine to shine, or totally mute the flavours. It has been scientifically proven that different glass shapes can bring out completely different bouquets from the same wine. Kohji Mitsubayashi, from the Tokyo Medical and Dental University, explains that wine served from a straight shaped glass loses the “ring shaped vapour pattern” which is how 78

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the wine aromas are expelled without interference of gaseous ethanol. Still sceptical? Try pouring the same wine into a tumbler and a wine glass, swirl and see if you can smell the difference in the aromas emitted. Many wine-glass manufacturing companies promote different shaped glasses depending on the grape, colour or region. However, unless you’re a sommelier, work in the wine trade, or have huge amounts of storage space and an endless stream of cash, it hardly makes practical sense to have every shape and form of glass. So, is there such thing as the perfect wine glass for every occasion? British writer, critic and Master of Wine Jancis Robinson believes so. She has come up with her version of the perfect wine glass that can be used for most wines on most occasions, and it consists of three integral parts. A wine glass should consist of a base, a stem and a bowl. Stemless glasses are fine for boating or picnics, but I would much rather have my wine glass with a traditional stem. This gives me the ability to hold the wine glass from the stem (or base) and keeps me from leaving fingerprints on the bowl of the glass.

WINE T&F

Different glass shapes can bring out completely different bouquets from the same wine.

Besides avoiding those unsightly marks, using the stem keeps your fingers far enough from your nose to not interfere with any smells they may emit. Whether it’s perfume or food smells from the canapés, you do not want any interference with the aromas of the wine. More importantly, holding the wine glass from the stem stops you unintentionally warming up the wine. It is only in rare cases where the wine served is too cold that I would hold the glass by its bowl, allowing the wine to warm up to a temperature that allows all the aromas to be released. The base of the glass is straightforward in that it must be large enough to provide stability, but it is really the bowl where all the magic happens. A generous bowl tapering inwards towards the rim captures the all-important aromas and allows for energetic swirling without the danger of losing any wine over the rim. The opening at the top of the glass must be big enough for those with larger noses, but not too big that it would cause easy spillage. Often overlooked is the excessive thickness of the rim of the glass. A thin rim allows for the closest possible communication with the liquid without any interference. I find that the more seamless the transition from glass to mouth, the better the experience. Those wine glasses with

the added lip at the rim detract so much from the experience of the wine itself. Crystal is more malleable than glass and therefore easier to manufacture into strong, yet extremely thin glassware. Unfortunately, it’s also more expensive than ordinary glass. Finally, the capacity of the bowl should yield a maximum surface area for the average 125ml pouring, while leaving sufficient leftover space to allow for the swirling. Anything smaller would not allow for enough aeration of the wine, and a bowl which is too large may be simply impractical to drink from. It is commonly understood that the larger wine bowls are more suitable for red wine and the smaller ones more suited to white wine. The reason is that pouring white wine into a larger bowl would automatically mean more volume of wine being poured and therefore a greater chance of it warming up to a temperature too warm to be enjoyed. Other than that, the same-sized bowl can handle red, white and rosé wines. However, there is one type of popular wine glass that I will not tolerate. The ever so popular 1980’s iconic Paris goblet. I will not drink wine from that glass. The bowl is too small, the volume is too small and the thickness of the lip on the rim of the glass resembles that of a beer mug, rather than a wine glass. Unless I’m served water in this glass, I’ll be sending it back or ordering a beer instead. There is one other glass-shape that has been receiving a lot of criticism as of late, and not without good reason the Champagne flute. The flute is a stemmed glass with a tall, slender conical shape. The flute, as we know it today, was invented in the middle of the 20th century as a means of better showcasing the bubbles in sparkling wine and reducing the surface area for the bubbles to escape, allowing the carbonation to continue for longer without fizzling out. However, oenophiles have realised that the flute, much for the reasons described above, does not allow for the full potential of aromas and flavours of the sparkling wine to be enjoyed. Since 2010, there has been a huge shift to drinking Champagne and other sparkling wines from more traditionally shaped wine glasses or tulip shaped glasses, which allow for better appreciation of the wine. It was, in fact, the Champenois themselves who started promoting the wine glass for Champagne. While I acknowledge that pouring sparkling wine into a wine glass may reduce the length of the effervescence, the overall experience of the Champagne is unquestionably improved. Just in case you were wondering whether my wife and I agreed on our wine glasses - it wasn’t easy. Her intent on going for style against my priority for function was an issue. The crystal wine glasses we chose are aesthetically lovely, but in my opinion, they don’t taper enough at the top. I don’t think my wife has noticed, but every time we have guests over, I take out a glass from my personal set of wine glasses just before the guests arrive. With the excuse of not wanting to destroy the lovely table-setting by using one of the laid-out glasses, I pour my first glass of wine into a different set and accidently keep using this glass throughout the dinner. n

Try pouring the same wine into a tumbler and a wine glass, swirl and see if you can smell the difference in the aromas emitted.

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T&F TRENDS

t Meridiana Wine Estate’s Fenici White (Chardonnay/Vermentino/ Viognier), Fenici Red (Merlot/ Cabernet/Syrah) and Fenici Rosé (Cabernet Sauvignon/ Syrah) are fast becoming a popular choice among wine lovers. All three wines are produced using only selected grapes grown in Malta, enjoying DOK classification. Their freshness, fruitiness and elegance makes them a perfect choice with salads, pasta, pizza and seafood. The Fenici range offers great quality and excellent value for money. The 2019 vintages of the Fenici White and Fenici Rosé are now available. Visit www.meridiana.com. mt for more information on the full range of Meridiana›s wines. Trade Enquiries: S Rausi Trading Ltd, Wine & Spirit Merchants, Stadium Street, Gzira – call +356 79093197 or info@srausi.com, www.srausi.com.mt

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The next issue will be out in August 2021 with The Malta Independent on Sunday

ISSUE 139 JULY 2021

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