• •
About the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club (NMC) The NMC is a meeting point for climbers, fell walkers and mountaineers of all abilities. Our activities centre on rock-climbing in the summer and snow and ice climbing in the winter. Meets are held regularly throughout the year. The NMC is not, however a commercial organization and does NOT provide instructional courses.
NMC Meets The NMC Members’ handbook (available to all members) and the NMC website list the dates and locations of all meets. This magazine lists the meets arranged for the next few months. Non-members: Are always welcome to attend meets. Note: Winter indoor meets require a minimum of prospective membership (see below) due to venue requirements for third party insurance.
Membership Details Members are Prospective until they fulfill the conditions for Full Membership (see membership form.) Full membership is valid for one year from the end of February. Prospective membership expires at the end of March each year. Membership gets you:
NMC County Climber
• • •
Copy of the quarterly magazine. BMC Public Liability Insurance for climbing incidents. Discounted NMC guide books. Discounted entry at certain indoor climbing walls and shops. Access to the extensive NMC library.
Join the NMC Download a Membership form from: www.thenmc.org.uk Send the signed and completed membership form with a cheque made out to the NMC for the membership fee (see below) to the Membership Secretary at the address shown on the membership form. Membership Fees •Full £25 •Prospective £15.00
Magazine articles This is YOUR magazine so please keep it running by writing about your own climbing experiences. Even beginners have something to write about. Send Contributions to: magazine@thenmc.org.uk
Black & White Photos? If you received this magazine as a paper copy, then you are missing part of the picture as the download version of the magazine is in colour. To arrange for email notification that the latest issue of the magazine is ready for you to download, contact the membership secretary at: secretary@thenmc.org.uk
Photos Unless otherwise stated all photos in this issue were
September 2011
taken by the author of the article.
Committee 2011/2012 President – John Dalrymple Vice Pres. – John Mountain Secretary – Caroline Judson Treasurer – John Earl Membership – Sam Judson Access – Richard Pow Hut Co-ord. – Neil Cranston Hut Bookings – Derek Cutts Magazine Ed. – Peter Flegg Social Sec – Eva Diran Librarian – Sam Judson Web – Ian Birtwistle General: Peter Bennett, Malcolm Rowe, Gareth Crapper, Andrew Shanks & Ian Ross.
As an affiliate to the BMC, the NMC endorses the following participation statement: The BMC recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.
Copyright The contents of this magazine are copyright and may not be reproduced without permission of the NMC. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the editor or the NMC.
Cover Shot Al Horsfield on Outward Bound E4 6a, Back Bowden Doors by John Dalrymple
page 2 of 16
What’s in this issue?
Weekend meets
Wednesday evenings meets .......................... 3 Winter Meets 2012 ....................................... 3 Weekend meets............................................. 3 60@60 .......................................................... 4 The Bob Graham Round............................... 7 NMC Peak Meet Sparks the Urban Riots? . 10 Winter Skills Course................................... 14 Forthcoming Winter Activities................... 15
You MUST contact the meet leader in advance, as any accommodation may be limited or already fully booked.
24-25 Sept 11
Wednesday evenings meets
Corbys – Angler’s Arms
28 Sep 11
Rothley – Dyke Neuk
05 Oct 11
Shaftoe – The Ox Inn
07 Dec 11
Xmas Quiz – at Burnside by the
Bowderstone - Working Meet—Neil Cranston 0191 270 2648
No need to call anyone—just turn up with all your own equipment. The NMC website has crag location details (www.thenmc.org.uk), also check the website forum for indoor wall alternatives if the weather is not good. Meet afterwards at the pub shown in italics. 21 Sep 11
Note: A deposit may be required to reserve your place on a weekend trip.
8 Oct 11
North Yorkshire—Chris Davis 07967 638 826
17-20 Nov 11
Kendal Mountain Film Festival
3 Dec 11
Presidents Walk—John Dalrymple 01670 519 629
Hut Overnight Fee increase Hut fees have had to be increased to cover operating losses.
NMC Quiz Master Barry Imeson
The new hut fees are: £5 for members £7 for non-members.
Winter Meets 2012 You MUST contact the meet leader in advance, as any accommodation may be limited or already fully booked.
These increases are effective immediately.
Note: A deposit may be required to reserve your place on a weekend trip. 6-7 Jan
Mill Cottage, Feshiebridge Richard Pow – 07831-216-024
3-4 Feb
Inbhirfhaolain, Glen Etive Alastair Boardman - 07768-268850
2-3 Mar
Raeburn hut, Laggan - Gareth Crapper – 07768-464-396
23-24 Mar
Alex MacIntyre hut - Bryn Roberts – 07921-436-955
13/14 Apr
CIC hut, Ben Nevis - Eva Diran – 07824-627-772
Winter Skills Course Not done much winter climbing? Want to learn the basic skills? Then sign up now for the Winter Skills meet on 6-7 January 2012 For more details see page 14
NMC County Climber
September 2011
page 3 of 16
60@60 Reflections on the strange allure of soloing Andy Birtwistle
On reaching the landmark age of 60 I needed a goal. I’ve always needed a challenge with climbing; from the early days, when VS seemed a far off target, to now when creaking limbs and aching joints remind me that, although at times I may feel 40, I’m not! So the game was hatched in my mind to try to solo 60 routes when I was 60. Why solo? some may ask. My answer to that is other questions: why climb in the first place? Why put yourself in danger, and why take risks? We all, as climbers, do it to some degree; some more than others and soloing is the ultimate risk where failure is not an option. It is this faith in your ability that defines solo climbing; knowing that you aren’t allowed to fail, focuses the mind in a very special way. Apart from that, you can also get a lot of mileage in. Let’s get one thing straight to begin with, in no way am I recommending this to anyone - in fact the opposite. Son Ian has developed the habit and it worries me! A lot of good climbers have been injured or killed soloing and it has to be said that you can only push your luck so far, so it’s a measured approach that’s needed and that depends very much on the individual and experience. It’s also a bit of a habit forming thing, you need your fix and the freedom you get from soloing, no rope, no gear, just you, is not dissimilar to the highs you get from other sources such as running. However the NMC County Climber
health warning is, unless it really suits you don’t do it! Soloing in the County is something I grew up with. All the “Cream Team” were happy to whiz up and down routes at Bowden and Kyloe, where the consequences of a fall are not too dire! In the days before highballs, that’s what we did. No mats made it a more serious undertaking, so it was jump off from a “safe” height or just do it. The jumping off is a reason why so many of the squad have had hip replacements! We soloed at Cramlington Wall, the only public wall in those days. Constructed of red brick before refurbishment, solid floor and bloody high, doing laps was the thing. I remember the Smith brothers playing tag there, one giving the other a few moves start!
Bob on Poseidon October 1988
September 2011
page 4 of 16
Hedworthfield School in Shields was another one where it was a toss up, which was worse: falling onto concrete or getting a football blasted at you. Those were the days. Anyway in that environment and without the security of soft landings I grew to enjoy the challenge and strangely often felt more secure soloing short routes than doing them with gear. I was never a hotshot like Bob, Tommy or John but as they did the serious route stuff and fingery bouldering, I enjoyed just ticking off lines. John always said I soloed harder than I led which isn’t far from the truth as difficulty wise I never wanted to fall, gear or not! The other aspect is that without rope or gear you aren’t weighted down, nor are you hanging around sapping your strength trying to place very marginal pro. My philosophy was if the gear is shit either solo it or leave it alone. Of course many routes on the sandstone are like that, marginal protection. Take The Trial or The Manta for instance at Bowden. Hard boulder problem starts followed by easier but still tricky climbing where the placements are rubbish. So I learned to solo them. Up a bit, reverse the moves or jump off. Gradually suss the route then go for it. Great! As confidence grows and the ability to reverse moves and back off gives you more options it does become inherently safer but it’s crucial that you know exactly how far to go without pushing it, and that essentially is the trick. There are routes I won’t ever solo and some I’ll happily do every time I go. There are tester routes to gauge how I’m going that day and there are some, where I know every move and could NMC County Climber
probably do it blindfolded. It’s all down to personal taste. Bob Smith could basically solo anything and often did. I remember vividly a day at Bowden back in 1988 doing a photo shoot where he nonchalantly soloed Poseidon Adventure (a route I have never even been able to lead) for pictures (front cover 1989 guide) and hung around on the break waiting for sunshine. It didn’t come so he finished the route waited 5 minutes for the sun to come out and did it again! As I said it takes all sorts. Many years ago, I worked my way up to doing 50 extremes in a day in the County. Inspired by Ron Fawcett’s 100 in a day I worked towards this target and eventually “knowing” I had 40 for certain I went for it and did it, for no other reason than personal satisfaction. Often I went out on my own, in the days before bouldering
Andy on The Manta in Feb 1989
September 2011
by Rick Barnes
page 5 of 16
Bob jumping off Poseidon (in the 70s)
by Steve Blake
became popular, and soloed so although dangerous, it was second nature and had a large element of control. I was at Stanage the other day and it took me back to 1991 and 1992 when I had two visits on my own, one Stanage End leftwards and one Popular End rightwards. I did about 50 routes ticking all the starred VS and HVS routes. It seemed ok at the time, but on leading a few recently, on reflection I must have been going well and feeling supremely confident at the time. It’s all down to experience and how you feel on the day but you ALWAYS have to be aware of a hold breaking or a foot slipping and know exactly what’s in the tank. So when it came to hitting 60 I decided on a trip “Oop North” to try my luck as soon as the weather seemed affable. Being older and creakier I set the bar a bit lower in terms of grade and I was happy to NMC County Climber
include a few Diffs and V Diffs. After driving up from Ashbourne (I’m Peaky scum these days according to Vice Pres Mountain), Tommy joined me as backup and we headed for the Doors. The sun was out and the crag was bone dry so it was game on. All went well but if anything it was too hot and the crimpier routes were hard work, but I managed to bag 45, excluding climbing all the way up The Trial, only to realise I was getting weary and backing off from the last few moves! Chastened I sought a few easier choices. Come 6pm we changed venue to Corby’s and having a break made a difference as I quickly mopped up the rest. Doc Martin arrived for the evening’s bouldering and as I grunted my way over the top of Sunshine Superman, I knew it was in the bag.
Final total 63: tired but happy, we retired to the pub for a celebratory beer. Thanks to Tom for support and driving. In the true Blue Peter fashion a final word of warning and disclaimer.
DONT TRY THIS AT HOME PS I didn’t feel too knackered when I finished but the next morning I managed to put son Ian’s electric kettle on the gas hob, almost setting the house on fire and later left a bag of shopping in Morrison’s. It DID take it out of me ☺ PPS If anyone’s interested these are the routes: www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/e.php?d=20 110713&u=12571
September 2011
page 6 of 16
The Bob Graham Round Lewis Preston
In 1928, on his 42nd birthday, Bob Graham set off to run 75 miles, involving almost 10,000m of ascent, climbing 42 mountains round the Lake District, it was first repeated in 1960. Andrew Leon and Lewis Preston ran it on 24 June 1989. The following are extracts from Lewis’s diary describing the event; the 42 peaks are shown bold and numbered:
Start: Keswick Moot Hall, midnight, after an ordinary Friday at work in Newcastle. Time: 00.00 Set off out of Keswick with head torches, very fast paced road-running through woods into Newlands Valley and onto Little Town. Little Town, first support stop, then off onto the open fell and up steep climb to: 01.14 Robinson1 (737m) I am keeping up ok so far, Andy full of stories of past Bob Grahamers’ feats. Traverse, with pitchblack valleys below, to: 01.34 Hindscarth2 (727m) fast time along ridge, good fun running in fells at night. 01.48 Dalehead3 (753m) fine night so far but very cloudy south, hard descent to the pass at 360m. 02.06 Arrive Honisten Pass: second support stop. Change to fell shoes for better grip in wet. Depart Honisten Pass: Climbing fast into mist, rain and cold, the weather is worsening. 02.35 Grey Knotts4 (697m) wet, slippery under foot, difficult route-finding to: Brandreth5 at 02.49 and via route of Ennerdale Horseshoe fell race, 2 weeks ago, to Green Gable6 (801m) at 03.08 down to Windy Gap and up steep wet rocks onto Great Gable7 (899m) at 03.21, still dark, misty, raining, cold (I’m wearing T-shirt, shorts, cag , no bottoms.) Steep, NMC County Climber
slippery descent, loose rocks and scree down to the col at Beck Head (620m), then up to Kirk Fell8 (802m) by 04.03 dawn, rain stops, mist clears as we descend to Black Sail Pass (542m). Then slowly we begin Pillar, Andy suffering cramps, stops for relief. We rest, beautiful morning mists below in Ennerdale, feeling tired we push on to: 04.52 Pillar9 (853m) now 20mins behind the 24hr 10 schedule. A detour to Steeple at 05.16, meet campers on summit of Scoat Fell (not one of the 42) waiting to support others– drink of their water. Fast ridge run to Red Pike11 (828m) at 05.32, regaining time. Long descent to Dove Head (486m) and pull up to: 06.07 Yewbarrow12 (617m) the first few fells are now done. Very hard descent on scree, me very slow down to Wasdale (60m) 06.23 for breakfast in support campervan. Change shirt and shoes, feet feeling ok. Depart 06.45 to start the longest up – straight up the endless slopes of Scafell in 70mins: Andy joking, me trying to keep up. 07.55 Scafell13 (964m) across the top and descend to locate the top of the short rock pitch Broad Stand. A friend has been up earlier in the morning to place an in situ rope which we hand-over-hand. Quickly down to the great gap of Mickledore. Leaving East Buttress behind we scamper up Scafell Pike14 (977m) at 08.31 on to the ‘Roof of England’, but non-stop on over Broad Crag15 (934m) 08.43, Ill Crag16 (930m) 08.52, and on to Great End17 (907m) 09.05. Off the summit together to the (real) Esk Hause, then up to: 09.24 Esk Pike18 (885m) with great views into the Upper Esk, then down to Ore gap and quickly onto Bowfell19 (903m) 09.45. Next, via a hidden rake traversing Hanging Knotts, we drop quickly, with all Langdale Valley below, round to Rossett Pike20 by 10.08, coffee, butties, cake, fruit. After 10hours running, enjoy a 10mins stop.
September 2011
page 7 of 16
Continue feeling remarkably strong but a long haul up to: Pike O’Stickle21 11.05 (half the fells are done.) Next to Harrison Stickle22 (736m) at 11.21, sunny, nice views, happy, pass another Bob Graham party going in the opposite direction. Easy ground to: 11.30 Thunacar Knott23(723m) we are now on time for a 23hour round. I set the pace up Sergeant Man24 (734m) back across dry peat bogs to: High Raise25 (762m) Andy
tires, I run ahead down grassy tracks past hikers and round Easedale to: 12.16 Calf Crag26 (537m) Flattish jogging we reach top of Steel Fell27 together at 12.36am. Off the summit we first miss, then find the descent gully towards Dunmail. I find the descent easier than that to Wasdale and again run ahead to the support team at the top of the Dunmail Raise at 12.50. 20mins rest. Andy gets legs massaged, I am still (unbelievably) feeling good. 13.10 We tear off up the gill and steeply up to Seat Sandal28 (736m) arrive at 13.50 ahead of time and going well. Drop to Grisedale Hause in sunshine then steep ascent to: Fairfield29 (873m) by 14.23. Now we turn north for penultimate leg home. Very steeply down to the trippers at the tarn, Andy breaks into a run as I am hobbling painfully down. He then tears up Dollywaggon at speed. I follow drinking a lot of juice as I go. 15.12 Dollywaggon Pike30 (858m): 45mins ahead of a 23hour round. Support stop number six with views to Grisedale and Ullswater, the summit top is sunny but windy and cold. Shovel food down then straight on to: 15.24 Nethermost Pike31 (891m) Quickly up to the eastern high point: Helvellyn32 (950m), looking across the cove to Catstycam, but today on along the beckoning ridge to Helvellyn Lower
NMC County Climber
September 2011
page 8 of 16
Man33 (925m). Then chatting merrily as the miles and summits tot up over White Side34 (863m) and Raise35 (884m) we tear down to Sticks for support stop number seven. We continue next over the Dodds: Stybarrow Dodd36 (846m), Watsons Dodd37 (789m) and Great Dodd38 (858m) in brilliant sunshine looking west across God’s beautiful country: familiar fells our way has trod. At Clough Head39 17.30 (an hour up) the pain begins: down 700m to Threlkeld, knees buckle, faces grimace with just the northern fells to climb, we hobble into the village for another support stop and to treat the blisters.
22.00 It is exactly 22hours since we started. We hug emotionally then run on down, down, very cold. Suddenly, light fading, Andy stops to change shoes, I continue, to stop myself freezing up. 23.14 The end… Solo, steeply, painfully down. Across the park and into Keswick to the Moot hall. Finish, stop running, Andy arrives. It’s done, and inside 24hours. Relax.
18.40 The last leg… Depart Threkeld after 25mins, strong and fast up Halls Fell in exactly one hour, straight to the summit of: 19.40 Blencathra40 (868m) The last two fells lie a long way west, in evening light we descend the northern flanks to cross the babbling River Caldew (which can thwart Bob Graham Round attempts if found in flood) and struggle in deep heather up: 20.55 Great Calva41. Encouraged by friends through a long, hard hour’s haul up to the final hill Skiddaw42 (931m), the last summit, now it is only downwards. NMC County Climber
The route is shown in green (but of course only if you are looking at the electronic copy of the magazine)
September 2011
page 9 of 16
NMC Peak Meet Sparks… the Urban Riots? Dave Hume
“There were many factors that led to the terrible urban riots of 8/11,” said the Rt. Hon. Dick Waughlin-Pratt, Chairman of the Royal Commission into Public Disorder, “but we now know that the main cause was the Butterfly Effect1 arising from the visit of the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club to the Peak District on the weekend of the 5th-7th August.” It is alleged that the arrival of 12 NMC
members at the Derbyshire Pennine Club's (DPC) hut in Stoney Middleton on that fateful weekend was THE trigger for the countrywide riots. The evidence against the Club is not clear-cut, and we were blithely ignorant of any wrongdoing in our state of climbing euphoria. True, the careful planning and incitement of Gareth’s internet campaign to encourage people to assemble at strategic crags would indeed lead to copycat tweeting by city agitators. But what else could have left us with the blame for the mayhem? Some events that seemed innocuous at the time might have sent a few shockwaves around - for example, Lucian brought along a friend. Yes, our very own Big Boy, the former Mr Romania, actually has a friend, name of Tim. Well he HAD a friend, because the said Tim cleared off at lunchtime on Saturday under mysterious circumstances, leaving Dave to satisfy Big Boy Luc's climbing appetite. Maybe Tim was sent off to Tottenham to fire things up. Does Lucian still have a friend or not? He's certainly got a shiny new full rack and rope, which is equally mysterious, as the looting was only reported on TV the day after the Meet dispersed. It wasn't quite a full moon that weekend, but Sarah Hawker does an earshattering impersonation of a hunting owl. She treated us to this over our Saturday evening meal in the hut, and it could easily have reached the gang leaders of London, causing premature werewolving.
James models this season’s midge hoodie
1
The Butterfly effect – from Chaos Theory – small change in a non-linear system can result in large differences in a later state”.
NMC County Climber
Grumbling can be catching too, and Dave and Gary did go a bit overboard about the excessive spread of tablecloths and gastro-pub upgrading of previously decent Derbyshire pubs, and the resultant scarcity of good ale haunts, and the price of beer. Dave's rants on the bankers didn't help either. How this affected the rioters is unknown. We may have set the style for donning hoodies for a good night's rioting - at least
September 2011
page 10 of 16
James's anti-midge climbing outfit would fool any city centre CCTV (see photo.) Falling personal standards might be catching. The lack of decorum of today's young women was exemplified by the two Sarahs, who kept collapsing in fits of hilarity over a figure in the bizarre oil painting that graces the stairs of the DPC's hut. Apparently he displays 'erect pubes', something I personally have only experienced accidentally when rewiring the attic. I cannot believe an artist could capture such a moment. The painting was done by the late Monty Grainger of the DPC and allegedly shows, with some poetic licence, members of the club at the time, including Mr. Erec T. Pubes. Yet none of these incidents could possibly account for our guilt in the ensuing national disorder. Like many of his mates, the Rt. Hon. Waughlin-Pratt doesn’t let mere facts get in the way of his opinions. I intend to put the record straight with this ENTIRELY FACTUAL AND ACCURATE account of the NMC August Peak Meet, with supporting statements from some of those present. Friday 5th August: Sunny and warm. Gareth and Simon P spent the day at Windgather knocking off some starred classics. Adrian and Sarah H worked their way through the Stanage guidebook somewhere, keeping clear of Dave and Gary, who arrived by mid afternoon and did a handful of routes at the Popular end, which was not too popular on a Friday afternoon. Dave especially enjoyed Right Hand Trinity as a re-introduction to jamming. As they left the crag in search of ‘sustenance’, Sarah F, Simon M and James powered up the path to get some climbing and bouldering in before evening. Alastair, Shanksy, Lucian and Tim arrived early evening, and a noisy scrum developed as the rest of the group arrived back from their climbing. Neil M and Nick S dropped in for a brief Royal Visit, after a good session at Willersley. Lucian slept outside on a bench, allegedly to avoid the
NMC County Climber
Sarah F on Tody’s
‘snoring’, but we know it’s where he feels most at home.
September 2011
page 11 of 16
Marmoset and Feathered Friends, with old favourites October Crack and Kelly’s Crack getting some traffic. We squeezed in two final routes at End Slab before the rain and a long wet thrash back through the bracken to the Dennis Knoll car park. Saturday evening was all fun, with a mix of fine pasta cooking in the hut, bar meals at the Moon Inn, Gareth’s meet-up with some old school mates in the pub, Sarah H’s owl impersonations, girly giggling at the aforementioned oil painting, an outing for Alistair’s fine home brew, plenty of rash ambitions for the climbing on the morrow, more snoring, and Shanksy taking the outside berth.
Sarah H on a classic VDiff
Saturday 6th August: Misty and drizzly. Adrian, the two Sarahs and Simon M headed to Froggatt where they found Neil and Nick soloing gnarly stuff. Sarah F enjoyed Tody’s Wall, and Simon M revisited his old favourite Green Gut. Meanwhile, Gareth, Simon P, Shanksy and James went to Stanage, exploring some of the esoterica before catching up with Gary, Dave, Alistair, Lucian and Tim who had started at High Neb with some fine routes including Eric’s Eliminate and High Neb Buttress, and at Fate, Icy Crack and Ono. The midges were out in force, James adopted a beekeeper look and Shanksy spontaneously led Tango Crack in full waterproofs to keep the little beggars out. The weather picked up by lunchtime, the midges (and Tim) left us, and we gradually worked our way leftwards to Crow Chin and Stanage End. Some of the highlights were October Slab, Kelly’s Eliminate, The NMC County Climber
Sunday 7th August: Dull but dry. Although an accurate description of Romanian wine, it is also the perfect condition for gritstone friction, at least on the less polished holds. The NMC descended en masse on Birchen Edge to show the locals how a large loud group can spoil their day. Some of the favourite routes done here were The Crow’s Nest, Emma’s Dilemma, Emma’s Temptation, Emma’s Delight, Emma’s Delusion, The Prow, Sail Buttress, Ratline, Topsail, Powder Monkey Parade, Camperdown Crawl, Trafalgar Wall, Foc’sle Crack – the grade range reflecting the group’s mix of leading from VDiff to E1. Several of the group had ‘special moments’ here at this friendly crag – Alastair led his hardest route this year “Yes, Sail Buttress HS. Exiting the strenuous hand traverse crux onto a good hold was one of those magic moments in climbing that only those who have done it will understand, and therefore merits my
September 2011
page 12 of 16
highlight of the trip award.” James made his 3rd ever but best lead, and his trip highlight was “moving from severe to VS for seconding”. Dave was sure he had shrunk since he last did Topsail, judging by his grunting and groping to reach the jug above the overhang, and Gary enjoyed this climb too. Gary didn’t enjoy the ridiculous start to Powder Monkey Parade though. Sarah F prowled around for a while looking for a worthy challenge before finding Ratline E1 5b to satisfy her needs. “It was a bit scary” she reports in her elegant Teutonic and understated way. Lucian was on fine leading form, trying out all his shiny new gear, although he also kept up his habit of swearing loudly despite our best efforts to protect the general public and family groups that Birchen attracts. Sarah H nearly swore too, when she discovered that she can fall off polished holds even when they are on a route well within her leading ability. Adrian succeeded in keeping a low verbal profile throughout the weekend as a survival tactic, or maybe he couldn’t get a word in. Everyone commented on how the craique, the banter and the good company of the group made the weekend a big success, as well as the climbing and Gareth's organisation. We got a lot done (typically 20-30 routes each), had a load of fun, stayed in a good place, and did no damage. That then is the case for the defence. So as the urban disillusioned got ready to roll through the shop fronts of England’s cities on that fateful weekend, the NMC were busy rampaging through the Eastern Gritstone guidebook. Trying to pin all that unrest on us with a quantum algorithm for NMC County Climber
Simon on Green Gut
entropy production or an exponent of fidelity decay and the flapping of a butterfly's wings in the Amazon is just a step too far for us mere climbers. It’s a giant conspiracy to ignore REALLY IMPORTANT THINGS that need some SERIOUS attention - poverty, unemployment, corruption in high places, greed, nastiness, poor parenting, the bankers, the gastro-pub movement, tablecloths, the price of beer and camming devices, and how often indoor routes are changed.
September 2011
page 13 of 16
Dramatis personae: Alastair Boardman, Gary Brosnan, Gareth Crapper, James Duffy, Sarah Follman, Sarah Hawker, Dave Hume, Simon M, Lucian Peterca, Simon Phillips, Andrew Shanks, Adrian Wilson, Tim X, with guest appearances by Neil Morbey and Nick Sillem.
The NMC group demolishing a table of alcohol
________________________________
_______________________________
Winter Skills Course 7 - 8 January 2012 The NMC is organizing another of these great courses this winter, based at Feshiebridge in the Cairngorms. The course is aimed at those with some fell walking and possibly summer climbing experience, who want to learn the basics of Scottish Winter Mountaineering. It’s a two night residential course. On Day One you will learn about the basic winter skills - clothing and equipment, weather, cramponning, ice axe arrest, cutting steps and general movement skills plus avalanche awareness. On Day Two, the activities are depend on both the weather and the course participants’ progression, but the aim is to look at mountaineering skills and put the day one skills into practice. If possible, we will climb a mountaineering route (approx grade I or II) but it does depend on a wide NMC County Climber
variety of factors. As we hold the course early in the season the conditions vary: previous years have seen us struggling to find snow to slide on one year to being almost snowed into the hut the following year! The important thing to realise is that you won't be climbing steep and soaring icefalls on this course. It's more about giving you the foundations to be able to develop your winter climbing as you see fit and to give you the basic skills to be able to join in on other NMC winter meets. The final cost will depend on numbers (six people max at around £30 each), but the course is heavily sponsored by the BMC so you won't find a cheaper one out there! Course Instructor: Tim Hakim, MIC assisted by Richard Pow.
September 2011
page 14 of 16
Forthcoming Winter Activities Eva Diran, Social Sec
Xmas activities The NMC Xmas Quiz will be held on Wednesday 7 December at Burnside hosted by the NMC Quiz Master Barry Imeson.
Raeburn hut, Laggan 2 - 3 March 2012 This is an ideal location for long days on Creag Meagaidh or easier days in the Cairngorms. Meet leader: Gareth Crapper – 07768-464-396
Pre-Xmas drinks will be held on Friday 9 December at a venue in town.
Alex MacIntyre hut
Winter socials
This is a good time and location to climb on the Ben, but Aonach Mor and Glen coe are also options.
We’ll be arranging a number of guest speakers between January and March this year. I’m looking to the membership to give me some ideas, so let me know who you want to see!
23 - 24 March 2012
Meet leader: Bryn Roberts – 07921-436-955 CIC hut, Ben Nevis
Winter Meets Put the following dates in your diary now! Don’t forget you will need to contact the meet leader beforehand as the number of places are restricted – you may also be required to pay in advance.
13 - 14 April 2012 This is a great chance to stay in the CIC hut. Conditions could go either way, but I’m thinking alpine! Meet leader: Eva Diran – 07824-627-772
Mill Cottage, Feshiebridge 6 - 7 January 2012 This is a great early season meet for catching the best conditions in the Northern Cairngorms, and coincides with the winter skills course (see next page.) Meet leader: Richard Pow – 07831-216-024 Inbhirfhaolain, Glen Etive 3 - 4 February 2012 February usually has good conditions for climbing in Glen coe. You’ve got to come just for the hut name! Meet leader: Alastair Boardman – 07768-268-850
NMC County Climber
Magazine Deadline The next issue of this magazine is due in mid-December. Articles for inclusion need to be with me before the end of the first week of December. Send photo files and text separately. Send text only in DOC, RTF or TXT format. Send to: magazine@thenmc.org.uk
September 2011
page 15 of 16
The website includes various discussion forums, a photoarchive for members’ climbing photos, online guides for most Northumberland crags.
Indoor climbing: £1 off the standard entry price at: • Sunderland Wall. • Durham Wall. • Climb Newcastle (Wed. nites only). • Newcastle Climbing Centre (Byker) • Morpeth Bouldering Wall Also winter season Wed. nights at Burnside college, £4 entrance fee, open to NMC members only.
NMC Website The NMC has a very informative website
NMC Guidebooks NMC members pay a discounted price for any guidebook published by the NMC. Currently available are the following guides: • Northumberland Climbing Guide Definitive Guide to climbing in Northumberland. £12.50 to members (RRP £18.95)
For the above 2 guides add £2 P&P if required. Contact John Earl on 0191 236 5922 • No Nobler County A history of the NMC and climbing in Northumberland. Now ONLY £2.00 Hurry while stocks Last!!! Contact Martin Cooper on 0191 252 5707
T-shirts and Fleeces Various styles of T-shirt with printed NMC designs and fleece tops with embroidered logo are available. Order direct on the website (www.thenmc.org.uk) or contact Ian Birtwistle 07828 123 143.
• Northumberland Bouldering Guide The new guide, £12.50 to members (RRP £19.95)
www.thenmc.org.uk Andrew Shanks on Amazon Crack
NMC County Climber
September 2011
by Dave Hume
page 16 of 16