• •
About the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club (NMC) The NMC is a meeting point for climbers, fell walkers and mountaineers of all abilities. Our activities centre on rock-climbing in the summer and snow and ice climbing in the winter. Meets are held regularly throughout the year. The NMC is not, however a commercial organization and does NOT provide instructional courses.
NMC Meets The NMC Members’ handbook (available to all members) and the NMC website list the dates and locations of all meets. This magazine lists the meets arranged for the next few months. Non-members: Are always welcome to attend meets.
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BMC Public Liability Insurance for climbing incidents. Discounted NMC guide books. Discounted entry at certain indoor climbing walls and shops. Access to the extensive NMC library.
Join the NMC Download a Membership form from: www.thenmc.org.uk Send the signed and completed membership form with a cheque made out to the NMC for the membership fee (see below) to the Membership Secretary at the address shown on the membership form. Membership Fees •Full £25 •Prospective £10.00
Magazine articles This is YOUR magazine so please keep it running by writing about your own climbing experiences. Even beginners have something to write about. Send Contributions to: magazine@thenmc.org.uk
Note: Winter indoor meets require a minimum of prospective membership (see below) due to venue requirements for third party insurance.
Membership Details Members are Prospective until they fulfill the conditions for Full Membership (see membership form.) Full membership is valid for one year from the end of February. Prospective membership expires at the end of March each year. Membership gets you: • Copy of the quarterly magazine. NMC Quarterly Magazine
taken by the author of the article.
Committee 2009/2010 President – John Mountain Vice Pres. – Peter Bennett Secretary–Caroline Judson Treasurer – John Earl Membership – Sam Judson Access – Richard Pow Hut Co-ord. – Neil Cranston Hut Bookings – Derek Cutts Magazine Ed. – Peter Flegg Social Sec – A. Coverdale Librarian – Sam Judson General: Adrian Heath, Eva Diran, Malcolm Rowe, John Dalrymple, Piotr Bamberski & Ian Birtwistle.
As an affiliate to the BMC, the NMC endorses the following participation statement: The BMC recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.
Black & White Fotos? If you received this magazine as a paper copy, then you are missing part of the picture as the download version of the magazine is in colour. To arrange for email notification that the latest issue of the magazine is ready for you to download, contact the membership secretary at:
Copyright The contents of this magazine are copyright and may not be reproduced without permission of the NMC. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the editor or the NMC.
Cover Shot
secretary@thenmc.org.uk
Richard and Ali Pow at Jack Rock 29 April 2009 (refer to
Photos
RP’s comment on page 13)
Unless otherwise stated all photos in this issue were June 2009
Photo by John Dalrymple
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What’s in this issue?
Wednesday evening meets
Weekend meets............................................. 3 Winter meets 2010........................................ 3 Wednesday evening meets ........................... 3 Other meets................................................... 3 Too Much White........................................... 4 Five go to Murcia ......................................... 9 The Italian Job ............................................ 12 Hut news ..................................................... 13 Access News............................................... 13 Kincraig, 4/5 April...................................... 14 Running hot & cold .................................... 15 The Stoic..................................................... 16 North Wales, 2-4 May ................................ 17
Weekend meets The following list shows the weekend climbing meets currently arranged. You MUST contact the meet leader in advance, as any accommodation may be limited or already fully booked.
Outdoor meets start again from early April 2008. No need to call any one—just turn up with all your own equipment. The NMC website has crag location details (www.thenmc.org.uk), also check the website for indoor wall alternatives if the weather is not good. Meet afterwards at the pub shown in italics. 01 July 09
Simonside / Ravensheugh Turks Head
08 July 09
Kyloe In - Salmon
15 July 09
Wanneys
22 July 09
Crag Lough
29 July 09
Back Bowden
05 Aug 09
Simonside/Coe
12 Aug 09
Kyloe Out
19 Aug 09
Wanneys
26 Aug 09
Bowden Doors
15-16 August 09
Bowderstone BBQ—Sam Judson 07793 522 261
02 Sept 09
Peel
09 Sept 09
Drakestone
29-31 August 09
Lakes, Bank Holiday—Piotr Bamberski 07881 658 019
16 Sept 09
East Woodburn/Wolf
23 Sept 09
Corby
11-13 Sept 09
Skye— Adrian heath 07903 377 012
30 Sept 09
Rothley
26-27 Sept 09
Bowderstone Working Meet— Neil Cranston 0191 270 2648
07 Oct 09
Shaftoe
2-4 Oct 09
North Wales—John Mountain 01670 505 202
Other meets Kin Choi is organising the following trips, he can be contacted on 0191-441 2263 or k_h_choi@hotmail.com
17 Oct 09
Slipstones—Chris Davis 07967 638 826
1 Nov 09
MTB meet—Adrian Heath
19-22 Nov 09
Kendal Mountain Film Festival
6 Dec 09
President’s walk—John Mountain 01670 505 202
Winter meets 2010 Refer to the box on page 16 for details of winter meets for the 2010 season.
NMC Quarterly Magazine
18-19 July
St Bees/Wasdale—camping at St. Bee's Seacote Holiday Park. Access to sea cliff sport climbing and bouldering at St. Bee's and traditional mountain routes in Wasdale.
17-30 Aug
Zermatt, Switzerland—Objective to climb Matterhorn and a couple of other 4000m peaks.
5-6 Sept
Gogarth—camping at Blackthorn Farm, Holyhead. Home to some of the best sea cliff climbing in the country such as A Dream of White Horses. Routes from VS onwards.
June 2009
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Too Much White Adrian Heath
A shout. Can't hear it in the wind. I look up, a wall of white, two orange shapes in it. Moving fast. No time, I plunge my axe, hug the face. Whack! I'm off. White. Try to swim. I've spun onto my back, feet first, doing backstroke to try and stay up, it's working. Suddenly I'm tumbling, mouth full of snow. Can't breath. I roll into a ball and cover my face and try to spit out the snow, still tumbling. Silence. Mouth jammed with snow, can't see, can't breath, then I remember I've got a nose. I must be able to breath. ‘Are you all-right Axe?’ I hear from behind me. It's Andrew. Must get the snow out of my mouth. I spit. It's out. Why didn't I think of that before? I'm ok, got snow in my eyes. ‘Where's Mark?’ Andrew asks. Don't know. ‘Mark!’ No reply. Shit. I am lying on my back, head downhill, with my left arm buried nearly to the shoulder, right arm a little less, along with my ankles, pack, and an annoying tangle of rope and the coils over my shoulder from glacier travel. The snow has set solid, I can't get my arms out or move. Andrew is behind and partially under me, like two men in a row-boat, with his legs stuck. ‘I'm going to push myself out’ he announces. ‘Arrhh!’ Pain shoots into both of my arms. Andrew’s crampons are in them, and he's just tried to do squats. ‘Ok, hang on, we'll dig them out.’ We pull out my right arm. I wipe the snow out of my eyes, then I lift my head. Mark is lying on the surface upslope from us. He sits up, looks confused, and then lies down again without responding. Andrew wriggles free and we then dig out my other arm. I slither out of my pack and the coils of rope and exit via a backwards roll to get back up the right way, and we set about disentangling ourselves from the rope. Mark is muttering something and kind of responding now. We finally get to him. There is blood on the snow. It goes a long way in snow. It's coming from his head, but not too rapidly. He is dazed, NMC Quarterly Magazine
disoriented, and incoherent. Concussion. We check him over and bandage the cut on his head, then while Andrew tries his luck at cell-phone reception, I get more warm clothes onto Mark and start digging a trench to get us out of the wind. Amazingly Andrew makes contact with the Police, thanks to our high elevation, but despite us being a days walk from the road. They tell us a chopper will be with us after a couple of hours, provided the weather remains ok. It is windy, but clear, although we are expecting a drop in the cloud base later in the day. Fingers crossed. We huddle around Mark, sitting in the little trench trying to keep him warm and awake as he tries to work out where we are and what has happened, but his short term memory is shot and he thinks we were on the SW ridge of Mt Aspiring. Thankfully we weren't. That would have been much worse. Two and a half cold hours later we hear the reassuring thwack-thwack of helicopter blades as a white Jet-Ranger approaches from Wanaka. We have prepared a slightly levelled one-skid landing spot in the snow as best we can, and hold everything down while sheltering Mark from the snow-laden rotor blast. The chopper touches down with one skid while four rescuers and a medic jump out, then takes off again to find clear air. We are in the lee of a sharp ridge and peak, at the top of a 500m face, and the turbulence is severe. The rescuers say g'day and start sorting out Mark. We get him wrapped up into the stretcher and pack our gear up ready for the ride down. I go first, along with Mark, the medic and 1 rescuer. Although the chopper has a skid in the snow, the pilot is still moving the stick about vigorously to keep it steady in the wind, and without any delay we lift off, spin around and plunge over the edge, descending rapidly in very turbulent air. Within minutes we land in a grassy paddock in the Matukituki Valley, and unload Mark while the chopper heads back up to get the others. Suddenly it is silent, and about twenty degrees warmer, and I can't quite grasp all June 2009
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Kin at Valsavarenche, Italy, Mar 2009 by Piotr Bamberski
of what has just happened in the last three hours. Mark has improved a little with the heat of the sun warming him up, but is still groggy and a bit confused. He wants to go for a pee and wanders slowly off towards a fence. I point out that it is electric (although that might wake him up a bit) and guide him away from it. He forgets what he was going to do. It can wait. NMC Quarterly Magazine
The helicopter returns with Andrew, the remaining rescuers, and the gear, and deposits everything in the paddock before we load Mark and the medic back in for the short flight to the little hospital in Balclutha. A little later the local farmer (who flies hunters and climbers around as well) arrives to take me and two rescuers up to French Ridge hut where we had been June 2009
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staying to collect our gear that we had left there for the day. The flight is rough and the landing bumpy with the increasing wind, and the lowering cloud threatens to block our retreat. I offer a hurried explanation to the other party who we shared a night with in the hut, and we take off, diving quickly down into the valley through a gap in the clouds. I am deposited at my car and say a quick thank-you to the guys before they fly back to their normal Saturday afternoons in Queenstown. On the way down the road to meet Andrew, a lamb runs out in front of the car and bounces off as I try to avoid it. I'm relieved to see it is OK. I've had quite enough trouble for one day. What had happened?
An avalanche. Not a big one, but an unfortunate one, combined with some mistakes on our part, and a trigger— Mark's feet. It was New Zealand, October 2002, and we had gone in for 5 days with the intention of climbing Mt Aspiring via the
south-west ridge, a steep alpine grade 3+ snow and ice route up one of the most beautiful mountains in the Southern Alps, topping out at 3027m. There had been a lot of snowfall, so we had abandoned our plans after walking in when we saw the condition of the route—due to avalanche risk. On day three we decided on an easy day trip up the Bonar Glacier, followed by a short steep slope of about 30m onto the Pope's Nose. The terrain was easy angled up the glacier, and we were roped together for crevasses. The soft snow made for heavy going, and when we reached the base of the steeper slope, we briefly discussed conditions in the wind and then proceeded across the bridged bergschrund and up, still roped together, and without helmets as we hadn't worn them on the glacier. I had some misgivings about the snow on the face which we discussed, but we decided to push on, myself included. Mark was first on, then Andrew, then me. Andrew and Mark were both excited to be using their brand new sabre-tooth crampons for the first time on steep ground.
Kin at Valsavarenche, Italy, Mar 2009 by Piotr Bamberski NMC Quarterly Magazine
June 2009
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When I moved from hard ice/neve onto a thin powder slab, I again became a bit concerned and shouted up my thoughts, but the wind prevented any effective communication and we carried on. Shortly after that Mark triggered the size 2 avalanche, just as he was about to reach the knife-edge snow ridge.
• We didn't stop to un-rope and individually climb the slope. With some concern about snow conditions, it would have been wise to climb it separately one at a time, that way at least only one might have fallen, or more likely the slab would have released around Mark's feet and left him high and dry.
The rest we pieced together afterwards: Mark had just climbed through a low crown wall, left from a previous release, and triggered the remaining slab to let go. The snow hit Andrew 8m lower down, who fell, and pulled Mark off. One or both of them struck me and knocked me off, probably with their crampons. The initial ride was smooth, but then we crossed the bergschrund, which was subsequently completely opened, and we started to tumble, finally running out on the more gentle slope of the glacier below, in about half a meter of debris which set solid as ice as soon as it stopped. It must have all been over in a matter of seconds, but it seemed to run in slow motion. Mark had hit himself in the side of the head with (luckily) the side of his ice axe at some point on the way down, and was knocked out for a short period. As well as concussion, he suffered a swollen jaw, and a small laceration to the head, and to this day he has almost no recollection of what happened after the avalanche released, but recovered fully. I had puncture wounds in both arms at the elbows that needed a few stitches, matching Mark and Andrew's new crampons, and matching holes in my jacket, jersey, and thermals. Andrew was fine.
• As for the decision to carry on with some doubts about stability—it was a decision we all made to the best of our ability, and it turned out to be the wrong one. The slope was too steep to become heavily loaded, resulting in our minimal burial, but had been very slowly loaded with a thin layer of windslab, dusted on by small eddies spinning off the nearby rock spur.
What we learned:
• We were each carrying a transceiver, probe, and shovel, but they were thankfully not required. • We should have put on helmets for the final ascent, but there was no rockfall risk and we hadn't, however given the position of Mark's injury it is unlikely that a helmet would have prevented it.
NMC Quarterly Magazine
Even the mountain rescue guys conceded it was an unfortunate event and difficult to predict, on what would normally not be considered an at-risk slope and aspect. At the end of the day though, we made an error of judgement, and got away with it relatively lightly. We understood that there was some risk, but factors such as the safe terrain and run-out, and the low volume of snow present, made it acceptable in our combined judgement – if it hadn't been for Mark's flying axe, we would have dusted ourselves off and walked back to the hut with tails between our legs. As it turned out, another party staying in the same hut as us had seen everything from the bottom of the glacier, and after seeing us moving about had returned to the hut to radio in for assistance. It was comforting to know we weren't just at the mercy of a unexpected cell-phone signal. The volunteer mountain rescue team were great on the day, and we were very grateful for their help and professionalism. The key point about the whole experience for me was to trust my instincts a bit more, and always pay attention to the snow conditions, regardless of what may appear to be a benign situation at first glance. It has made me more cautious on snow—sometimes too much so. June 2009
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What you should learn:
What I hope this might encourage others who partake in winter activities to do is consider your knowledge of avalanches, and think about whether you are happy to be plodding about out there in the snow without a transceiver, probe, and shovel, as most Scottish winter climbers seem to do. This may be completely justifiable, but make sure that you can justify it with sufficient knowledge: • Check the avalanche reports (www.sais.gov.uk) and look at the snowpack.
prepared. The best option of course is to know how to avoid an avalanche in the first place. • Having a transceiver doesn't reduce the risk of a slide, or justify taking more risks, but it does dramatically improve your chances of finding someone alive, provided everyone in the party has one and knows how to use it. Although we didn't need our transceivers, I was glad to know that had one of my mates been buried, I would at least have had a fighting chance of finding him in time.
• Consider slope and aspect, terrain traps and escape options. • Dangerous avalanches do occur in Scotland, so be careful and be properly
Kin Choi at Jeong Dong Ice Park, Korea, February 2009 NMC Quarterly Magazine
June 2009
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Five go to Murcia Cliff Robson
The story so far
Last year four of us went to the Costa Blanca and stayed in the slightly shabby and squashed confines of the Orange House. This year we moved down the coast to Murcia and the luxury of our own villa having been tipped off by our President (at the time) that there was at least a week’s worth of good climbing here. We stayed in the recently created urbanisation of Algorfa complete with its own grandiose entrance archway. Street after street of empty houses made the place look like a set from Survivors but we weren’t complaining as we were happy to cruise the deserted streets in our large black beast of a people carrier complete with heavily shaded windows. The Crew
Last year we took George on his first sports climbing trip and he liked it so much not only did he come back for more but he brought his son Phil along who being, at the time anyway, the right side of forty, immediately knocked Peter Flegg of the rostrum as the trip’s youngest member. Super bionic man Gary Brosnan, rebuilt annually by the NHS and raring to go after a season of hard graft at Burnside, made up the fifth member. The Climbing
Climbing in Murcia starts where the Costa Blanca stuff runs out just south of Alicante and extends south of the City of Murcia. Apart from Leyva in the south, it offers plenty of easily accessible well equipped climbing at all grades and in the form of single and multi pitch routes. Quite a few of the most accessible climbing areas can be found around the town of Orihuela. Our early morning flight got us there in time to revisit Sector Solana at Callosa. Just ten minutes walk from the car a handful of easy slab routes provided us with a chance to get used to holds that NMC Quarterly Magazine
aren’t bolt ons and introduce Phil to the delights of hot Spanish rock. The few hours were usefully used and we finished off walking across to Sector Rapel to do the excellent long La Baldomera del Quinto. Day 2 brought clear blue skies so it was off to discover the joys of La Panocha south east of Murcia city. Finding it revealed once again those irritating flaws in Rockfax access descriptions. It seemed simple enough. By pass Murcia and take the signs to X and Y go past a religious building (???) go left at a T-Junction, next right and you’re there. What we found ourselves in was a kind of national park high above Murcia town and with enough tracks and likely looking rocky outcrops to confound even Marco Polo. Ever had the feeling you’ve passed that junction before? Maybe several times? About to give up hope? You know the feeling but you also know how good the elation is when you discover you’re not lost after all. A brisk hike up to a draughty, shaded, dead end col looked like an unlikely approach but all of a sudden you are on the sunny side of the mountain with a very lunar looking landscape in front of you and behind a fine sunny amenable slab aptly named Lunar Landscape. It was a pity in our case that the Spanish Army had decided to go there on the same day as us. Fortunately they soon sloped off for lunch and a siesta leaving the sun drenched crag to us and an excellent day’s climbing here on shortish well bolted routes. A good dose of sun left us very much in holiday mood and after taking in the great panoramic view of Murcia from the car park area we headed down to find a local bar before trying to find our way back home. Needless to say next day the sky was blue and the sun shone so it was time to wean ourselves off short sunny slabs and go for something a bit bigger. Pared Negra is located within sight of the town of Oriheula but when you step out of the car and look up at it you can’t help having a bit of a stomach lurch. It’s big and from June 2009
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below seems vertical from road to summit. There doesn’t even seem room for a belay ledge. And this is just a local crag. Peter and George decided to tackle one of the classic multi pitch routes Derecha del Esplolon (5) which was apparently well worth its three stars. There are several multi pitch offerings here up to 6a+, all of them four pitches. It’s well worth the visit. One of the advantages of staying in Algorfa is that you can buzz quickly onto the motorway and access climbs in the Alicante and Calpe area. The search for a new sunny slab to go with yet more fine weather took us to Forada, often used for doing a few routes on an airport day but an excellent crag in its own right with a sunny slabby side with plenty of short but interesting routes and a fiercely overhanging shady side. It’s set in an extremely scenic national park but we regretted taking the route via Elda as it’s horrendously rutted and potholed. Sector Petorri/Descotti gets all the sun going and has a good range of very thought provoking 5s and 6s such as Otra Ruta (5+) and the excellent Pilar (5).
success with. A combined father and son conquered the hard and undergraded Nuria No Llores (5+). We also had a day trip to Sella as most people hadn’t been there and wanted to see what it was like. I hadn’t been there for quite a few years and was impressed as always with the mountain scenery but also quite surprised by how well the crag seems to have stood up to the traffic over the years. There is still vegetation at the foot of the crag which seems quite surprising. There’s a bit of polish but given the popularity of the crag it doesn’t seem too bad. We tried to get a drink at the Refugio but the warden was as elusive as ever so we called into a bar
Peter was keen to revisit Toix Plaça Lower for the multi pitch routes and the great setting. We weren’t disappointed. Just a few of the great routes here are Lara (4+) Anto (5) and the single pitch Mushu (6a). As we had a late flight Gary belays Cliff at La Panocha back on the last day we were able to head back to /restaurant on the bottom road in Sella and Callosa to do some of the short sharp got a bargain carafe of beer as well as routes on Sector 1. Phil really came into being able to appreciate the owners’ his own here getting stuck into awkward collection of tea towels from around the thuggy routes that others had not had much world festooning the bar in various stages NMC Quarterly Magazine
June 2009
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of bacterial evolution, one section cleverly hiding some indoor guttering and some dubious internal wiring. Ah was it not always thus in Spain? EU regulations are just for everybody else. Survival
Spain is still a place to eat cheaply inspite of the strength of the Euro. Our local taverna did us a good Menu del Dia for under €10. In the nearest village grandiosely named Cuidad Quesada the Chinese restaurant offered everything on the menu for just over €9. All one hundred and twenty seven dishes on the menu could be scoffed for next to nothing but I think you’d need some serious training.
man must always have an eye on the climbing catwalk. It’s not every trip that goes like clockwork. Last year we had just taken off from Alicante on time when the pilot announced that a warning light had come up on the dashboard saying that he couldn’t get Radio 2. Needless to say we returned to Alicante to spend a very tedious eight hours waiting for another plane. This time we arrived on time, left on time, got a big upgrade on the car and had somewhere very good to stay. We already have an aspirant new team member for
On one of his numerous early morning walks George had discovered a real British fish and chip chop where Phil at Forade (Sector Petorri/Descote) even the medium fish next year who is already serving his proved sufficient to leave our hearty crew apprenticeship at Burnside so next year’s begging for mercy. magic number could well be six. It was a great trip with plenty of excellent Finally as we were near to Calpe on our climbing, great company and many trip to Toix we couldn’t resist revisiting amusing moments that would make the same fish restaurant where we got such another article in themselves. A climbing good value last year to find that for the article not about climbing? Well maybe same price of €8.50, they still served three next time. courses and wine with piles of fresh fish straight from the fish quay. Just to round off a good day we couldn’t resist calling into Decathlon just south of Alicante so that Peter could update his wardrobe. A NMC Quarterly Magazine
June 2009
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The Italian Job Andrew Shanks
The NMC interior decorating team at work
This year's spring working meet was attended by Paul Sim, Peter Flegg, Sue Bevan, Neil Cranston and myself with Adrian Wilson and family (Aaron Comber, Natalie, Eliot, the ninja, and Truda) arriving on the Saturday evening.
Unfortunately, the only climbing that was done was by the many parties of boulderers at the Bowderstone.
On the first day Neil, Peter and Paul replaced the stove in the Hermitage and began work on the door frame. If they'd only been supposed to take the bloody door off, it would have been a quick job, but putting the new one on took most of the weekend. Meanwhile, Sue and Andrew refreshed the paint on the living room of the main cottage.
Lost & Found At the new members meet: A helmet was left inside the hut at the new members meet, was it yours? I have the helmet at home do you want to claim it?
On Sunday, the weather was fantastic for the outdoor work such as finishing the hermitage door and tidying the cottage grounds. We even had lunch Italian-style round the table which we moved into the garden.
NMC Quarterly Magazine
by Neil Cranston
Neil Cranston 07966 284 433
June 2009
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Hut news
Hermitage stove Neil Cranston
Keys / Fobs
I’m sure that most of you have heard me at some point in the last 2 years, going on about the new electronic key system for the entrance doors of the club’s huts ie both the Cottage and the Hermitage. Well so far there are something like 70 fobs that have been assigned to individual members now and the door lock barrels for both huts have been changed—SO BE WARNED ANY OLD ORIGINAL KEYS STILL HELD BY MEMBERS WILL NO LONGER PROVIDE ACCESS. The membership database shows that there are 226 members in the NMC, hence there are a lot of members who do not have access to this fantastic asset. If you still have an old metal key then you need to exchange it for a new fob. How do you get a new fob?: • If you are a valid full member of the NMC and have a metal key, then send it to me and I will exchange it for a fob free of charge • If you are a valid full member of the NMC and do not have or have lost your key, then send me a £10 deposit and I will assign a fob to you. • If you have a lapsed membership and don’t want to re-join the club, send me the key or fob and the NMC will refund your £10 deposit. If you find yourself at the hut and have forgotten your fob then the Scafell Hotel Reception in Rosthwaite holds two fobs, one marked member (will open all doors) the other marked Guest (will only open the cottage door) make sure you ask for the right one. My contact details are in the hand book, or talk to me when you see me out and about.
NMC Quarterly Magazine
The Hermitage has a new stove which looks very smart and in my opinion is very easy to light, control and clean out… etc. This winter I expect the hut to be very cosy. This stove is a wood or smokeless fuel stove, the smokeless fuel is kept in the lean-to round the back of the Hermitage (the old Gas store) there are two keys for the lock hanging up inside the hermitage somewhere, one attached to a spanner the other has a piece of lead attached. Please do not loose these! Do not burn coal on the stove as this will soot up the flue.
Access News Richard Pow
Kyloe Out
8 trees are to be felled at Kyloe Out during August. Heckley
Until further notice Heckley (listed under the Minor Crags section in the current Northumberland Guide) is out of bounds. This is likely to be a long-term closure. Note: There has never been right of way to this crag.
Cover shot
Ali and I on the front cover this issue!!!… …and I have only just recently been awarded the Single Pitch Award (SPA) good job the assessors didn't witness this escapade!
June 2009
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Kincraig, 4/5 April Peter Bennett
The Ladies Scottish Climbing club hut at Kincraig is always a great venue for winter meets and this year was no exception. The weather on Saturday was passable. On Sunday it was excellent. A team of 11 members turned out, Amanda, Jon, Tim, Peter B, Eva, Richard, Jeff, Rob, Graham, Nick, Carolyn. Conditions on Saturday were pretty bracing with a very strong wind on the Cairngorm plateau, and visibility down to 40 metres or so at times, though the temperature was above freezing and the snow conditions not conducive to winter climbing. Despite this, ascents were made of Braeriach and the Fiachaill ridge followed by the summit of Cairngorm after first descending to Loch Avon.
the Coire an Sneachda via the goat track heading for Ben Macdui, but they also were rebuffed by the wind and returned via Coire an Lochain. That was it for most of the team. Two good days really. The further exploits of Eva, Jon and Amanda who stayed up North for a few days included Amanda’s first experience of wild camping. This was above the Garbh Coire Bothy, just below the summit of Braeriach. The weather varied from wet and windy on the walk in to baking hot 2 days later on the walk out. Typical Scottish weather then.
Unfortunately Tim was unwell on Saturday but Eva prescribed the old Bulgarian remedy of garlic with boiled rice which had him up and running (well climbing) on Sunday. The Saturday evening meal was enlivened by an interesting discussion on the subject of the sexual obligations of wives according to a certain religious tome. Not quite sure how we got onto that! Without going into too much detail, it can be reported that this lead to some entertaining and witty observations. The temperature dropped overnight and Sunday dawned clear and sunny. Tim, Eva and Richard went to Coire an Sneachda where they enjoyed an excellent day soloing 5 routes on good neve. The cycling team went for a ride in the forest, Peter and Jeff went up Mullach Clach a Bhlair, via Carn Ban Mor, down via Allt Coire Chaoil. Rob set off to go up Braeriach but was blown off course. Jon and Amanda went up NMC Quarterly Magazine
Eva and Rob looking at home June 2009
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Running hot & cold Eva Diran & Richard Pow
On the Saturday of the May bank holiday weekend Anna, Lewis, dog Cleo , Tim and I, after a leisurely morning of cups of tea and multiple breakfasts, finally set off at 3pm to climb Gillercombe Buttress. The weather was pretty grim - grey, damp and windy and climbing the route very much reminded me of what it's like to climb in winter - it's grim, you can't hear or see each other, you jump around to keep warm and you climb quickly to get back to the hut for a hot cuppa. Even Anna and I climbed quickly - no extended chatting at belay stances resulted in just two hours for the route. At least we'd done a long route, so we went back happily to join Adrian Wilson, who was celebrating his 40th birthday
party at the main hut. (Thanks to Adrian for letting us gate crash your party!) On Sunday the weather looked much better and we decided on Kern Knotts. What was glorious sunshine turned into five layers of clothing and a woolly balaclava when we got to the crag. We climbed both of the classic crack routes in parallel, getting bashed about by the high winds. It was then that I spoke on the phone to Richard who convinced us very easily to ditch the mountains for the sunshine in the valley, and from here Richard continues the story... The Lakeland crags were in fine fettle, although when Lewis, Eva, Anna and Clare ventured high they were caught by a cold wind and quickly retreated to the warmth of the valley when I reported it was shorts and tee-shirts weather on Shepherds.
Anna climbing Adam (HVS) at Shepherds Crag by Lewis Preston NMC Quarterly Magazine
June 2009
I arrived at Shepherds cafe at 5pm about an hour before the others were due (having been instructing for the day in Langdale). Despite the tea and cakes temptation (and the pretty Polish waitress making eyes at me... I may have been imagining that bit) I thought a quick run up to Black crag, soloing Troutdale Pinnacle and running back to the cafe for 6pm last orders was the thing to do. So that's what I did but arrived at five past six and the now grumpy Pole was trying to close the cafe. Lewis and the gang arrived minutes later and were equally unsuccessful at the bilateral Anglo-Polish negotiations necessary to winkle a cuppa through the iron curtain. So, alas, we headed up to the crag our thirsts unquenched and our bellies crying out for the cake that they hadn't had. Lucky that ‘be prepared’ Lewis had a half eaten bag of dry roasted to sustain us. page 15 of 18
Eva and I did easy routes behind crap climbers (well one route actually - it did feel like more). But it wasn't an evening to rush - the wind had dropped completely the sky remained blue well in to the evening and the craic was good. Lewis impressed us all with his first E1 lead of the century (I think he last did one in the last millennia).
The Stoic Jim Rigg
Standing proud brooding edge above the crowd. Do I try?
Although this brought his extreme climbing up to date the same can't be said of his rack which Eva and I had been left to climb with. Such was Eva's distaste for rocks 7-9 and hexes 8-10 all on furry rope and attached to one crab that she threw them over her shoulder as she coasted up the second pitch of Ardus.
Detached, impassive so it stands. Maybe Delicate, demanding,
I was a bit concerned by the vintage of some of Lewis's wires so for his safety battered a rock 3 into a crack so hard that there was no prospect of Lewis, or anybody else, ever retrieving it. Anyhow, I then took photos of Anna looking graceful where Lewis had not and we made it back to the hut for ‘tea’ by about 11pm.
elegant, complete.
Eventually, at about half one, and after following starvation with a bit more self harm we snuggled into our sleeping bags. It was then I remembered that I needed to be at work in Hexham by 10 this morning. Work does get in the way sometimes don't you agree.
Vulnerability.
Why not? Leaning, footstep shuffle, concentration.
Wrong sequence, bungled moves. I’m falling. Relax
Winter Meets 2010
Precision
The winter meet venues for 2010 are now booked: 8/9 Jan 29/30 Jan 12/13 Feb 12/13 Mar 26/27 Mar
Control
Kincraig Muir of Inveray Waters Cottage Kinlochleven, Jeff Breen 01661 834 378 Black Rock Cottage Alex MacIntyre Hut
Reach I’m there
Trip leaders yet to be announced.
NMC Quarterly Magazine
June 2009
page 16 of 18
North Wales, 2-4 May Peter Bennett
The early May bank holiday meet in North Wales was based at the Gloucester Mountaineering Club hut, Cefn Goch, near Deiniolen, which was generally agreed to be an excellent venue. There was a good turnout, 19 NMC members and friends including one who is also a member of the GMC, plus one member of the GMC, Sarah, the hut booking secretary, so we all needed to be on our best behaviour. Everyone took advantage of the generally favourable weather on Saturday and Sunday with parties active on Gogarth, Tryfan, Idwal Slabs, Clogwyn y Person, Llanberis Pass, the Moelwyns and Crag X (overlooking Betws-yCoed, if you really want to know the name ask Graham W.) Since the pubs within walking distance of the hut are not particularly appealing, evening socialising took place in the hut itself. Achievements and failures of the day (were there any of the latter?) were recounted with a fervour directly proportional to the amount of alcohol consumed, until the exhausted participants succumbed one by one to fatigue and the call of the sleeping bag. Don’t ask me who was the last to go. On Sunday, a fine sunny evening, Bryn got the barbecue going and some hardy souls dined alfresco. NMC Quarterly Magazine
Monday morning was wet and looked set for the day, so most people set off for home with the intention of stopping at climbing walls or crags en route depending on weather. A successful weekend, despite the wash out on Monday. The cast: Gary, Nick, Howard, Reng, Graham W, Robin, John F, Peter B, Stephen, Peter F, Dave, Andrew, Piotr, Ewa, Eva, Anna, Adrian H, Bryn, Muny & Sarah.
Sarah at Craig yr Wrysgan June 2009
page 17 of 18
NMC Guidebooks
Indoor climbing: £1 off the standard entry price at: • Sunderland Wall. • Durham Wall. • Climb Newcastle (Wed. nites only). • Climbing Centre (Byker)
NMC Website The NMC has a very informative website
www.thenmc.org.uk The website includes various discussion forums, a photoarchive for members’ climbing photos, online guides for most Northumberland crags and you can also buy from a large range of climbing books available.
NMC members pay a discounted price for any guidebook published by the NMC.
• No Nobler County A history of the NMC and climbing in Northumberland. Now ONLY £2.00 Hurry while stocks Last!!!
Currently available are the following guides:
Contact Martin Cooper on 0191 252 5707
• Northumberland Climbing Guide Definitive Guide to climbing in Northumberland. £12.50 to members (RRP £18.95)
• Climbing In North East England A guide to the best climbing in South Tyneside, County Durham, East Pennines and North York Moors £17.95 (incl. P&P)
• Northumberland Bouldering Guide The new guide, £12.50 to members (RRP £19.95) For the above 2 guides add £2 P&P if required. Contact John Earl on 0191 236 5922
Graham Williams at Wolf Crag, NMC Quarterly Magazine
March 2009
Contact Steve Crowe on 0191 584 3361
T-shirts and Fleeces Various styles of T-shirt with printed NMC designs and fleece tops with embroidered logo are available. Order direct on the website (www.thenmc.org.uk) or contact Ian Birtwistle 07828 123 143.
by Bryn Roberts page 18 of 18