About the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club (NMC) The NMC is a meeting point for climbers, fell walkers and mountaineers of all abilities. Our activities centre on rock-climbing in the summer and snow and ice climbing in the winter. Meets are held regularly throughout the year. The NMC is not, however, a commercial organization and does NOT provide instructional courses.
NMC Meets The NMC Members’ handbook (available to all members) and the NMC website list the dates and locations of all meets. This magazine lists the meets arranged for the next few months. Non-members: Are always welcome to attend meets. Note: Winter indoor (wall) meets require a minimum of prospective membership (see below) due to venue requirements for third party insurance.
Membership Details Members are Prospective until they fulfill the conditions for Full Membership (see membership form.) Full membership is valid for one year from the end of February. Prospective membership expires at the end of March each year. Membership gets you: Copy of the quarterly magazine. NMC County Climber
BMC Public Liability Insurance for climbing incidents. Discounted NMC guide books. Discounted entry at certain indoor climbing walls and shops. Access to the extensive NMC library. Access to huts of affiliated clubs
Join the NMC Download a Membership form from: www.thenmc.org.uk Send the signed and completed membership form with a cheque made out to the NMC for the membership fee (see below) to the Membership Secretary at the address shown on the membership form. Membership Fees •Full £25 •Prospective £15.00
Magazine articles This is YOUR magazine so please keep it running by writing about your own climbing experiences. Even beginners have something to write about. Send contributions to: magazine@thenmc.org.uk
Black & White Photos? If you received this magazine as a paper copy, then you are missing part of the picture as the download version of the magazine is in colour. To arrange for email notification that the latest issue of the magazine is ready for you to download, contact the membership secretary at: secretary@thenmc.org.uk
Committee 2013/2014 President – John Dalrymple Vice Pres. – vacant Secretary – Andrew Shanks Treasurer – Eva Diran Mem’ship – Adrian Wilson Magazine Editor – John Spencer Social – Sarah Follmann Librarian – Eva Diran Web – Ian Birtwistle General: John Mountain, Pete Flegg, Ian Ross, Ed Sciberras, John Vaughan
As an affiliate to the BMC, the NMC endorses the following participation statement: The BMC recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.
Copyright The contents of this magazine are copyright and may not be reproduced without permission of the NMC. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the Editor or the NMC.
Cover Shot Iain Johnson on Original Route (Severe 4a), Raven Crag, Langdale (John Dalrymple)
Photos Unless otherwise stated all photos are taken by the author of the article.
Summer 2013
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What’s in this issue?
Weekend & Day Meets
Wednesday Evenings Meets .........................3 Weekend & Day Meets ................................3 Editorial .......................................................4 BMC NE Climbing & Walking Festival .......5 The Langdale Meet (April 12-14th) ...............6 Merely Mortal ..............................................7 A Malteser's Mingulay Memoirs ..................9 Never Been Back ...................................... 14 Some Rocks Are Gneiss, Others Are Schist ....................................................... 16 The Eskdale Meet (May 17-19th) ................ 20 A Mingulay Dish For One Club Business ............................................ 20
You MUST contact the meet leader in advance, as any accommodation may be limited or already fully booked. Note: A deposit may be required to reserve your place on a weekend trip. If you cancel after booking a place and your place cannot be filled then you will still have to pay the cost of your place in the hut. 13 July
Annual Dinner, Bellingham John Dalrymple 075971 242 339
Wednesday Evening Meets
19-21 July
BMC Climbing and Walking Festival, Belford - Sarah Follmann 07896 305 855
26-28 July
Galloway, Camping - John Dalrymple 075971 242 339
9-11 August
Peak District, Carlswick Cottage – Gareth Crapper 07825 457 416
23-26 August
Wasdale, August BH, Camping – Eva Diran 07824 627 772
30 Aug – 1 Sept
Yorkshire, Camping – To be arranged
30 August
Navigation Skills, Simonside with Colin Matheson - John Dalrymple 075971 242 339
6-7 Sept
Crag Lough, BMC Crag Clean-up, camping Twice Brewed – DIY
14 Sept
Henhole/Bizzle (Northumberland’s only genuine multi-pitch venue!) Martin Cooper 07757924499
At the time of publication, the outdoor evening meet programme is in full swing, the weather having so far come up trumps, albeit colder than usual. To attend a meet there is no need to make arrangements – just turn up with your kit and get stuck in! The NMC website (www.thenmc.org.uk) has crag locations, which are also found in relevant guidebooks. Check the website form for indoor wall alternatives if the weather is not good. Meet afterwards in the pub shown in italics. The asterisk denotes bouldering limited or unavailable.
17 July
Coe Crag/Gimmerknowe – Angler’s Arms
24 July
Kyloe Out – Blue Bell
31 July
Great Wanney – Highlander
7 Aug
Bowden Doors – Blue Bell
14 Aug
Back Bowden – Blue Bell
20-22 Sept
North Wales, Clogwyn Hut – Adrian Wilson 07970823483
21 Aug
Crag Lough/Queen’s Crags – Twice Brewed
5 October
North Yorkshire Grit – Chris Davis 07967 638 826
28 Aug
Drakestone – Turk’s Head, Rothbury
27 October
Kielder MTB Ride – Neil Cranston, 0191 270 2648
4 Sept
East Woodburn/Wolf – Highlander
15-18 November
Kendal Mountain Film Festival – DIY
11 Sept
Corby’s – Angler’s Arms
1 Dec
18 Sept
Rothley – Dyke Neuk
President’s Walk - John Dalrymple 075971 242 339
25 Sept
Shaftoe – Dyke Neuk
NMC County Climber
Summer 2013
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Editorial John Spencer
So summer finally arrived, hot (well warm-ish) on the heels of a late, rather brief and all-too-cold Spring; so late, in fact, that Ron Walker, Scottish guide who blogs as Talisman, climbed Spiral Gully in Sneachda on May 16th. . OK, it wasn’t in particularly good condition, but clearly in much better nick than when I ‘wet-tooled’ it in February 2012, see: http://talismanactivities.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/notmirror-direct-but-spiral-gully.html. Club activity is in full swing: Wednesday and weekend meets, crag cleanups, plans for a learn-to-lead course, and, currently, involvement in staging the forthcoming BMC’s North East Climbing and Walking Festival (19th – 21st July). At the time of writing, plans are well advanced, but we are still looking for helpers – see next page for further details.
What else is on offer in this Summer issue?...... The President writes about the Langdale Meet in April, formerly known as ‘The New Members’ Meet’, which by all accounts was very successful and great fun. Ian Ross adds a reflective piece about getting back onto rock after an orthopaedic assault on his knee. Ed Scibberas recount his experiences as a first-time ‘Minger’ in his eulogy about Mingulay (and special thanks to him for helping untangle me when my tent blew down in a Hebridean hoolie – yes I know it was only a ‘festival’ tent, yes I appreciate I should have known better than to test it out….). Meanwhile, Jim Rigg celebrates a half century of climbing this summer, and with characteristic modesty describes his first couple of years attached to a rope, and his meteoric rise from excited rookie to aspirant rock-jock (though in those days we called them ‘Tigers’!). With over 1300 routes on around 50 crags, it has been said that Scottish sport climbing has ‘come of age’. On page 16 the two recently published guides are reviewed – see what you think. Last but not least, Pete Flegg gives a short report about a rather damp weekend meet in Eskdale. Plus a tasty recipe and the usual Club news.
Jim Rigg leading Pianissimo (S), Far East Raven Crag, Langdale, fifty years on… John Spencer
NMC County Climber
Now, when I took over as Editor from Pete, he told me it was sometimes a bit of a struggle to get material for the magazine. After 2 issues at the helm I see what he means. It depends totally on contributions from Members, and anything and everything is welcome: long or short, prose or poetry, photos or drawings. Two of the articles in this issue were ‘commissioned’ and I will continue to do that. So if I hear of you doing anything vaguely interesting, I will pursue you relentlessly for copy – You Have Been Warned! Summer 2013
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At the time of publication, both the NMC and the Wanneys club are working with the BMC to make this happen. The HQ for the Festival will be the Blue Bell in Belford. From the BMC website: ‘Festival season comes to Northumberland on the weekend of 19-21 July for the North East Climbing and Walking Festival. This is an opportunity for local climbers and walkers to welcome newcomers to the outdoors, and to showcase ‘the County' to people from further afield. Evening entertainment on the Friday will take the form of a pub quiz, courtesy of Mark Anstiss, and a talk entitled ‘From North Wales to the North Face of the Eiger’ from BMC Officer Rob Greenwood. On Saturday night there will be a Ceilidh by the Wall Star Village Band and a raffle in aid of Regional Air Ambulance Services, with prizes from the BMC, Scarpa, La Sportiva, Berghaus, Rockworks, Petzl, Newcastle Climbing Centre, and Sunderland Climbing Centre. Rain will not stop play!’ Guided walks and orienteering events are also planned for the Saturday, and John Punshon and Tim Hakim will be conducting introductory climbing sessions. We need people to help out on the day, including manning the NMC stall and some organisational support CONTACT SARAH FOLLMANN ON: 07896 305 855 or Sarah.Follmann@pbworld.com IF YOU ARE ABLE AND WILLING For further information see: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/north-east-climbing-and-walking-festival https://www.facebook.com/NEClimbingFest or follow on Twitter at: @Team_BMC NMC County Climber
Summer 2013
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The Langdale Meet (April 12-14th) John Dalrymple
Previously the first 'summer' weekend meet was the “New Members’ Meet” but this year we wanted a change to emphasise that new members are welcome at all meets, not just this first one, hence ‘The Langdale Meet’. Adrian Wilson booked us into Raven Crag Cottage, the Barclays Bank Rambling and Climbing Club hut in Langdale. I'm told that this was formerly one of Bob Diamond’s holiday homes and is conveniently situated between the crag and the pub. The meet was fully booked - in the event there was just one spare berth due to an attack of the lurgy. Despite the fact that I'd booked warm sunny weather, by Friday morning it was looking a bit iffy. If the forecast was right we'd maybe get a few hours on Friday, Saturday looked craggable up to late afternoon, but Sunday promised only downwards ghyll scrambling weather. Amazingly the weathermen were almost spot-on - except Sunday was so horrendous that the ghylls were
Matthew’s bangers and mash
running down the roads! The early arrivals on Friday managed to get climbing - the Raven Crags of Walthwaite and Langdale both saw some action, and a certain meet leader led a small party the wrong way up to a crag he'd been to “a thousand times before”. NMC County Climber
But the most remarkable thing that day was the size of the sausage on Matthew Westwoods' Bangers and Mash at the ODG Hotel. The evening was a jolly sloshing affair, starting in the pub and then carrying on in the excellent Raven Crag Cottage, with Überschnell supplying the gin and, in return, Dave Hume serenading her with some remarkable Jake Thackray songs (the under-60s can look him up on You Tube). To be fair, Dave had his own supply of whisky. Next day dawned fairish and cold but with mist down to the top of Raven Crag. Undeterred, John Mountain and Peter Bennett set off for an invisible Gimmer Crag, following the meet leader’s example and going the wrong way. It was a brave decision to go up high, and as the mists cleared away off the fells they were rewarded with a good day on the polished and undergraded Bracket and Slab. The rest of the motley crew ambled up the correct way to Raven Crag and, between them, managed Middlefell Buttress, Evening Wall, Original Route, Holly Tree Direct, Pluto, Bilberry Buttress (Wilsons Blind Variation), Centipede, Savernake, Mamba and Revelation. At least. Congratulations to Matthew Westwood on his first outdoor lead, and commiserations to Ian Ross, who only managed one pitch because his brand new hi-tech space-age knee isn't run in yet. And I must be brutally honest and mention the fact that the meet leader ponced around the crag taking photos and studiously avoiding putting his boots on. I can't recall exactly the reason I gave, I used to play golf and I've got more excuses than a Chancellor of the Exchequer. Thanks to the longer serving members for helping make sure that the new members all had someone to climb with.
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Nice views! Jo and Iain sizing something up on Middlefell Buttress
Ian Ross
(we should all understand that it is not the height that kills you, it is the damned ground). Simply, knowing that my physical ability as a climber had been severely compromised. I had in fact, six months previously, finally admitted to myself that my arthritic knees were not going to improve. I could no longer sustain the enormous intake of analgesics and antiinflammatories, both non-steroidal and otherwise, which had now become necessary just to be able to function with some kind of normality. This decision led me ultimately and fairly swiftly I might add (thanks to the wonders of private health care), to the operating table.
It was with some trepidation that I signed up for the Langdale Meet. Not caused by any kind of lack in self esteem, or indeed by any shyness on my part at being thrown together with a group of the climbing fraternity, some of whom would undoubtedly be unquantified strangers, in a climbing hut where privacy is often at a premium. Nor was it any fear of climbing or heights
On the morning of October 4th I would have my new knee. A very expensive couple of pieces of highly engineered Oxinium alloy (oxidised zirconium, what ever the hell that is). Provided I didn't succumb to any infection in the joint, ‘which could prove catastrophic’ said the surgeon, I should be pretty much back to normal in twelve months. ‘The only thing we don't
Rain stopped play at around four, when the Great Flood started up. That evening ex-Club member and new Lakeland local Craig McMahon showed up in the pub and plans were made for some ghyll scrambling on the Sunday, but when morning came it was pretty obvious that nobody was going into any rivers voluntarily - even driving home was a bit of an adventure. But all in all it was a great meet, thanks to everyone for the banter and gin, and get booked up for next year’s trip. I may even take my boots.
Merely Mortal
NMC County Climber
Summer 2013
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recommend’ he went on, ‘is running. These joints don't like a lot of shock loading’. That was a relief, I have always hated running, can't see the point of it. If I am in that much of a hurry I'll use the car. After the op' the first three weeks were just pain. Now, I reckon I have a pretty good pain threshold, but this! Hell's Teeth!! I have never felt pain like this! Regret was starting to set in. However, I kept the surgeon's words in mind, ‘the pain will be quite severe for a
Christmas and the New Year came and went and I was back at work full time following a phased return. February came round and I was almost completely without need of pain relief apart from the occasional paracetamol and the odd tramadol, more so when it was very cold. These new knees don't like the cold. April was upon me and the Langdale meet. I was determined to climb something. That something turned out to be the first pitch of Bilberry Buttress on Raven Crag, and only a variation of that, which reduced the severity of the pitch
Adrian Wilson on Pluto (HVS 4c, 5a), Raven Crag, Langdale John Dalrymple
few weeks, but once you're through that, it should be relatively easy’. It hasn't been easy. But I suppose, relative to the pain, the following weeks were. I set myself small goals over the coming weeks, trying not to be too ambitious but following my physio, and slowly getting used to my still very alien feeling knee. NMC County Climber
by at least two grades. It was very quickly obvious to me that I wasn't quite ready yet. I will resign myself to being a bumbly for a while or perhaps longer. It was still a wonderful weekend with some wonderful people. Some of you may read this and perhaps think of it as some kind of failure, however, I can't regard this trip as any kind of failure, I set out to have a good Summer 2013
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time, and did just that. Anyway, in the words of a Texan billionaire, Henry Ross Perot, ‘failures are like skinned knees, painful but superficial’. I may not be leading Northumberland HVS any more, but that's because I am merely mortal. A special thank you to AW for the Langdale meet.
A Malteser’s Mingulay Memoirs Ed Scibberas
My face was feeling well scorched, thirst was starting to set in, my partner was long gone round the last visible corner and rope was running out. Crashing waves, punctuated by guillemots’ cries formed a fitting hymn to the Arch Deacon's traverse high above my head, framed by the walls of the soaring cave in which I was standing. A sudden twitch of the rope brought me rudely out of the reverie...Adrian urgently needing slack 56m away. ‘Uhmm, Adrian,... three metres left,’ I mouthed into the radio (by the time I fumbled with the button, another metre had gone). ‘OK, safe’ came the quick reply. Five minutes later, and I was following the two snaking lines out of the cave, aptly described as “the dancefloor”, which forms the belay of McCall of the Wild, a lovely VS on the magical (overused but perfectly fitting term) island of Mingulay. This yearly week-long trip is talked about the other fifty-one weeks of the year – the diving bonxies (which incidentally were quite mellow this year), ‘Get off my land!’, swimming with seals etc. As the weeks ticked off and the date drew nearer, preparations gathered pace. Gas fuel – check; folding chair – check; pirate hat – check; hmmm it will be a whole week...some more gas fuel – check. Some of us could then be seen at the climbing wall practising hauling and
NMC County Climber
prusiking, and debating the merits and demerits of various forms of Z-hoists. Oban on the morning of May 25th saw a knot of pirates gathering outside the CalMac terminal, with a stash of gear steadily growing with every new arrival. New climbers were introduced, then names quickly forgotten as everybody eyed with uncertainty the growing pile of blue Ikea bags full of food...how many more were we expecting? A quick headcount, ‘Will, Adrian H, Martina, Adrian W, Alison, John S, John V, Danny, Eamon, Joe, Sam, Chris, Tom, Piotr, Neil, Roger and Marion …All aboard arrrrgh!’ Captain Tim Catterall announced. Five hours later, Barra was in sight, and a motley crew had gathered on the aft observatory deck. The weather prevented anyone from sailing on to Mingulay that evening, so we set up camp in the wastelands below the Castlebay Bar; which hostelry was where most of us ended the night. Adrian H and Will meanwhile had already set off with the rest of the kayaking gang to spend a night on Sandray, leaving Martina confounded by Will's vintage tentage. Dawn saw us gathering on the quay waiting for the MV Boy James to take us away from civilisation and on to Mingulay. Deposited at the south end of the beach, all gear was soon hauled to base camp, where everyone marked their spot for the week to come and just absorbed the awesomeness of being there. The sight of the pile (literally!) of seals down on the beach drove home what a haven this place actually was. Most of us first boaters hadn’t bothered with breakfast, since invariably this was stored at the bottom of the rucksack, so we settled in for a quick brunch of porridge and just absorbed the Ming atmosphere. Before too long, the second boat was in sight, as well as the kayaking crew heading straight for the beach. Summer 2013
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With the weather not getting any better, as soon as each climbing pair was sorted, we headed off towards our first cliffs for the trip, with Guarsay Beag
impeccable Lewisian Gneiss we had travelled 10hrs+ to get to. It was a case of love at first hold, as we snaked up easy-looking lines for a perfect introduction to Mingulay. After a while the sea got rougher, and we headed back to camp after 3 routes. As the rest of the climbers trickled back, tales of minor epics filtered in – routes done in soaking rain (Adrian and Martina), a desperate grab for an ab rope being retrieved (Mr Morbey himself!); but universally a good first day was salvaged Dreaming of blue skies and azure seas from the John Spencer weather. being the spot of choice for a large number of us. I can distinctly remember The night proved slightly different, the first sight of sea cliffs greeting me though salvage was the order of the and Adrian W as we topped out on the ridge above the beach. Gobsmacking! After the perfunctory photo(s) we carried on to Shag Point, together with the Johns, Tom and Chris, as well as Piotr and Tim. No sooner had T&C abbed in, the first drops of rain were felt. The dilemma of whether to follow them down or seek entertainment elsewhere was soon solved by the idea of taking a power happened. Unfortunately, though most of us dreamt of blue skies and equally azure seas, opening our eyes after fifteen minutes showed a battleship-grey sky, and a ferocious sea. Room with a view
So on Tim’s suggestion we headed to nearby Ryan’s Wall where a quick scramble down saw us staring up at the NMC County Climber
morning too. Chief victims of the ‘windus magnus’ were one of the party tents and our kind Editor, who ended up Summer 2013
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seeking refuge in Neil’s tantric abode. Things weren’t looking too bright for the day either as the wind showed no sign of abating. With brimming motivation, me and Adrian W, the Johns, and Adrian H
minutes later, a large wave did in fact arrive leaving the adventurous couple drenched to the proverbial bone. Adrian W and yours truly settled for some routes below the staging area, where Mr.
Two Johns and a Will wait their turn, Guarsay Beag
and Martina headed towards Guarsay Beag for a second attempt. One look at the waves crashing into the cliff however, told us that today was not the day either. Then followed a day of scenic touring around our island, which took us down to Seal Song Geo before getting some climbs in at Sgiobasdale (a.k.a. Skippisdale). Noteworthy sights along the way: two golden eagles, and 6 climbers getting washed in sea spray on the Upper Tier of Seal Song Geo – 25m above the sea! Not that Sgiobasdale was without wetting incidents. The dry bit of platform which the Johns were occupying was getting smaller and smaller with rising tide and waves, when Adrian H and Martina arrived after much oohing and aahing. Invariably, five NMC County Climber
Vaughan correctly pointed out that the rope from the belayer to the anchor was longer than the route itself! But at least we got on (dry!) rock! The night, by which time the Professore had been given use of Mr Vaughan’s bungalow tent, was fortunately without any incident, and the next day dawned with promise of a glorious day ahead. We headed once more to Guarsay Beag, where it proved to be a case of third time lucky conditions finally being favourable. Joined by Adrian and Martina (dry by now) we set about building the anchor for the abseil off Shag’s Point when the Johns turned up with birthday boy Will. With experienced Mingers at hand, the choice of routes and abbing location was established with more confidence. It was Summer 2013
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with no shortage of apprehension that I abbed down my first ‘proper’ sea cliff. Should we have backed up with another piece of gear? (it would have been a 6th piece!), are there enough rope protectors? (actually another one would have been very useful), which prusik goes where if I need to jumar up? Oh hello, this is a nice big ledge; and it’s actually out of the wind and sunny down here. Things were looking much brighter as Adrian W went off From the Hole to Heaven (VS 4c), while Adrian H set off on Wine Box Nomads (VS 4c). First proper route on the island and I can say it was gorgeous! We swapped routes, while the Johns and Will slipped in between, …and it was my turn to lead Wine Box Nomads. With confidence somewhat boosted and apprehension somewhat lessened, the climb felt just stunning – I think it was then that the full Mingulay experience truly kicked in, and I could see why everyone had been raving about these magnificent sea cliffs. With Cheshire cat grins we finally headed back to camp where everyone swapped tales of cliffs. Further afield, Danny and Eamon had travelled to Arnamul with Tim where they opened up a new route at VS. Already Wednesday, it was time to step up from the introductory sea cliffs, and head to The Boulevard on Guarsay Mor, once more accompanied by Adrian H and Martina. Our initial target was Oh No Archie’s Going Round in Circles! (HVS 5a), which Adrian W ably led, while our neighbours climbed Under the Pink (E1 5b). After debrief and lunch, I was convinced to go for Under the Pink (as my first E1!). Pondering the crux move, the fact the island was deserted and miles from civilisation fully sank in. I think this made the satisfaction at the end of the pitch even more gratifying. Meanwhile, Dun Mingulay was in order for the more adventurous fellows, with Neil and the Irish lads ticking off Les Voyageurs (E3 5c), while other NMC County Climber
parties did Sula (E2 5b). The Johns and Will had a quiet day at Waterfall Geo, while the nice weather also brought with it James, and Al and Kat who finally arrived on the island. Thursday dawned quite windy, so in order to get most shelter, most people headed to Geirum Walls on the South of the island. Actually, only Adrian W,
Hanging about on the Geirum Walls
Piotr and myself did initially…the rest played Scrabble at camp, conveniently turning up once the abseil was sorted. With easy access and short routes, a proper cragging session was held with everyone racking up a number of climbs. Slightly more explorative, Neil and Danny were new routing round the corner on a wee arch which caught their fancy. The final full day saw everyone eager to tick off the rest of their wishlist. Adrian H and Will were going for a paddle round the island and adjacent Berneray, Neil had unfinished business with Pavement Pizza (E2 5c) on South Pillar, and found a willing partner in Martina, while the Arch Deacon was high on the agenda for plenty of parties too. Me and Adrian wandered over to the Big Arch area and abbed in to do McCall of the Wild. This placed us in the centre of the climbing scene, where we could Summer 2013
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see Neal, Martina, Piotr, Danny and Eamon across on South Pillar, and Roger, Marion, Tim and James above us on the Arch Deacon.
finally quiet (except, of course, for the resident corncrake).
Enthusiasm on the Saturday morning was not at its best, and the striking of the That tents evening, proceeded at Tim a leisurely undertook pace. It was clerical popular duties of venue due to another sort its proximity by to the ministering campsite, and a pirate saw plenty of wedding to DWS action. the Will and Adrian H set out on their paddle back to Mingulay while everyone else had some final climbs or just strolled about. At The happy couple four ‘Ship unsuspecting Adrian and Martina, ahoy!’ was called when the Boy James complete with wedding cake, bubbly, was sighted making a beeline for and Poundstretcher marriage bracelets. Mingulay Bay, followed by a procession Worthy of special mention was the of knackered climbers hauling luggage lemon cake baked by the resident bird and tentage to the old landing spot at researchers on the island! And then the Aneir. pirate festivities began with much singing, shouting and general ribaldry. Though the ride back was quite bumpy, The Professore let off some more of his the thriving metropolis that is Castlebay fireworks (Batch No 1 having gone up in (!) soon came into view, and we all smoke for Will’s birthday earlier in the plodded up to base camp to set up week) while Cap’n Tim sporadically lit accommodation before heading off to the up a Chinese Lantern, which was Craigard Hotel for a well deserved meal. followed until lost in the night sky. The Vatersay Boys were once again in Inside the party tent, meanwhile, the town, pumping out the music at the chorus was going full pelt, and the Craigard Bar, and everyone found some quaich went round and round to Tim’s last ounces of energy to dance away till cries of, “Fill ‘er up!” Actually it rarely we were chucked out and went to bed. went round more than halfway! The night wore on, until Neil’s fingers could The final home stretch of the journey finally strum no more, the pirates headed back to Oban passed uneventfully, with off for a final sleep on Ming, and all was the onboard shower giving new meaning to the word ’refreshed’. Back on terra NMC County Climber
Summer 2013
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firma, cars were loaded once more (albeit with much less Ikea bags), hands shaken and byes said to a great gang of climbers. Alla prossima! Till next time! The whole Mingulay experience was superb – great climbing, good craic and genial company. So thanks Tim for organising the trip! As we left the island, watching from the boat as the campsite disappeared, I think everyone looked back at a great week and with a sense of attachment to the place. Gradually the island slipped further and further away, leaving it to fall back into silence. Except for the corncrake.
Never Been Back Jim Rigg
It was all very different back then. I guess I was lucky. Lancaster was a handy place to be. Clougha Pike lay within walking distance of our house. As well as that, the 13th Lancaster Scout Group was quite adventurous and I have fond memories of extensive hikes and overnight camping trips. What is now known as ‘bouldering’ was all part of the game. Equipment was primitive Hawkins hiking boots, kapok-filled
sleeping bags .... it doesn’t bear thinking about. The hills got under my skin. The local library provided inspiration and I read every book on mountaineering that I could find. (even now I still periodically delve into Lionel Terray’s NMC County Climber
Conquistadors of the Useless). By the time I was 14, I plucked up sufficient courage to venture into Harry Robinson’s Mountaincraft Shop. Harry sold up and retired many years ago but in those days it was a meeting place for the nucleus of climbers that became the Lancaster Mountaineering Club (LMC). After a few visits a measure of success was achieved when “H” uttered the words that, to this day, I vividly remember. ‘If it’ll bloody well shut you up, you can come on the Sunday meet to Langdale. Be at the ’bus station by 8.30.’ So, 50 years ago saw me in action on my first roped climbs. Geoff Pickup, 5 years my senior, took me up Middlefell Buttress (VD by its awkward polished start) and Pianissimo (S). Picture the scene: rope tied around the waist with a bowline, bendy boots, a single long sling and waist belays. It was such a brilliant day. Despite having to attend Saturday morning school and participate (willingly) in team sports on the Saturday afternoon, progress was made. I practised knots, belays and prussiks using the bannister at home and rapidly ‘learned the ropes’. By then the LMC had acquired the use of a loft located around the back of the Kirkstone Pass Inn. A typical weekend would see me attend school in the morning, play rugby (or rowing in summer) in the afternoon and then dash home to grab some food before heading to the Lakes. Most of the time a lift was negotiated but at other times I had to take the bus to Ambleside and walk up ‘The Struggle’ to the hut. Older club members would have been drinking in Ambleside or attending the infamous Windermere dance - I was too young to gain access. Sunday we went climbing. Amazingly I managed to ‘keep all the balls in the air’ and homework was always produced on time! With the benefit of hindsight, I now know that this is explained by youthful vigour, enthusiasm and fitness. Summer 2013
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Gradually proficiency improved and by the time I was 15 I was a regular on the ‘sharp end’. Encouragement and advice was always readily available.
precariously!) threaded. At some point, somebody realised that by drilling out the thread of a hexagonal nut and then threading it with suitable nylon line to
Mr Rigg’s Borrowdale Guide, annotated after the fashion of Allan Austin’s famous ‘little black book’
Etched in the memory is an ascent of Little Chamonix (V Diff) in atrocious conditions. ‘I’m twice your age, stop whimpering and get up the bloody thing!’ Of such stuff are men made. By the time I’d led my first VS (Peascod’s Route, Far East Raven Crag) it was plain to see that some new kit was required. Considerable parental help and understanding facilitated the purchase of a second-hand pair of PAs, a rope (100 foot long, full weight, hawser laid) together with a pair of Nordica mountain boots. Protection was rudimentary. In early times there was little if any worthwhile protection - in fact there was none unless you could drape a sling over it or thread a sling around it. Joe Brown et al used small pebbles that could be inserted into suitable cracks and then carefully (often NMC County Climber
make a sling you had a form of chock that, in theory, was much easier to use. (Ref: Nut’s Story) That was the sort of kit I learned to use. By this time (1964) the best climbers in the LMC were Ian Roper (a.k.a. ‘Sherpa’), Dave Hall and Pete Shackleton. They were about 5 years older than me. I guess I was somewhat surprised when my tentative request to join them on some harder routes met with a positive response. The reader ought to realise that in those days most climbers served a suitably long apprenticeship. There were relatively few 15 year olds climbing at HVS and above. Pegasus (HVS) on the East Buttress was my first outing into serious country. I persuaded my mum to write me a note so that I could skive off Saturday morning school to go with Summer 2013
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Sherpa and Dave to Scafell. Leaving Lancaster on Friday night, we approached the crag via Upper Eskdale and bivvied somewhere in the vicinity of Cam Spout. Starting the route at about 8.00 am, we dispatched the climb in good order. Meanwhile Sherpa and Dave made an early ascent of Ichabod (E2 5c) - see Allan Austin’s account in Hard Rock - Dave completing the technical crux just as the heavens opened. I missed out on CB that day. Development led inexorably to the Whit weekend of 1965. I could only manage the weekend because parents insisted that ‘O’ Level revision take priority. Dove Crag was the venue. A brilliant, but not well-known climber, Ken Wood, completed an early (4th?) ascent of Extol (E2 5c). Richard McHardy, one of the best mountaineers of his time, completed an ascent of Dovedale Groove (E1 5b), and we were bound for Hiraeth (E2 5b). Pete was still not fully recovered from an appendix operation so the leading was down to me and Dave, with Dave to lead the big pitch.. The first two pitches went easily - they’re probably done as a single pitch now - but Dave couldn’t access the sloping ledge on the crux groove. I “read the rock” and told him there had to be a layback hold high and on the right to facilitate the move. He didn’t find it, but I did. Shuffling upwards the peg was duly clipped placed by Martin Boysen on the 2nd ascent?. We’d heard there was a thread runner under the final bulge. Where that information came from I don’t know ours would have been only the 4th ascent!- but whatever, I couldn’t find it. More technical shuffling and I’m nearly there. Onto the wet, sloping ledge, done it. The next moment I’m dangling on the rope face-to-face with Dave. I’m probably the only person to have fallen the entire length of the crux groove of Hiraeth. I’ve never been back to Dove Crag. NMC County Climber
Reference Nut’s Story, 2001, a Nut Odyssey by Stéphane Pennequin at: http://www.needlesports.com/NeedleSpo rts/nutsmuseum/nutsstory.htm (Editor’s note, for the young ‘uns: E2 5b was, in the mid-60s, a pretty gnarly grade.)
‘Some Rocks Are Gneiss, Others Are Schist’*: a review of two guidebooks John Spencer
Head north of the border and put your ear to the ground and you may hear a low rumbling. No, it’s not Alex Salmond’s stomach or the start of meltdown at the local nuclear power station, but the sounds of Raeburn, Collie, Bell, Murray and other deceased grandees of Scottish mountaineering turning in their graves. For the Scottish Mountaineering Club, fierce guardian of all that is ‘trad‘ in mountaineering, has published a guide to…wait for it…sport climbing! What’s more, the ‘coordinating author’ is none other than the mighty Andy Nisbet. Now, as you surely know, Andy is the living manifestation of gnarliness. He is the archetypal ‘wild man of the mountains’ and looks like he lives on raw ptarmigan and heather, and sleeps in a cave. He has put up around 1000 new winter lines (and a fair few rock lines, especially in the North West) over the past three decades, including some of the very best Scotland has to offer, and was one of the pioneers of hard mixed winter climbing**. But now, apparently, he’s to be seen wearing a beanie, swinging around on a rope, jangling chains and maillons and shouting ‘Send it, dude’. Well, maybe not, but he’s almost certainly the first SMC President to wield a Hilti drill! But hang on a mo’ – what’s this? Like the proverbial No 12 bus, you wait for one for ages, then two come along at the same time. There’s another guide to Summer 2013
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existed and had a place in the grand scheme!
Scottish sport climbing on the market. ‘7a Max: Scottish Sport. A selected guide to routes from 3 – 7a’, an independent publication by Sebastien Rider and Topher Dagg. What’s going on? Well the fact of the matter is that there are now over 1300 bolted lines on 50 + crags spread across the Scottish mainland and on some of the isles, as far north as Shetland, no less. There is a wide variety of rock types on offer, including some slate, many beautiful, indeed stunning venues (albeit several, errr…less stunning ones as well, it has to be said) and, according to the SMC guide, although ‘the Costa del Sol it may not be’ (!), Scotland now boasts a host of ‘world class routes’. Scottish sport climbing can well and truly be said to have ‘come of age’. It’s had a relatively short gestation. The first ‘proper’ bolted routes appeared in the sandstone quarries of Angus in the early 1980s, and kicked off a cat-andmouse game of chopping/retro-bolting until passions dissipated. Bear in mind that the Scottish climbing establishment at this time had only recently conceded [a] that having ‘Very Severe’ as the top grade was a little bit limiting and that perhaps the E grade system had something going for it, and [b] that rock climbs less than 25m in length actually
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However the bolting of the Tunnel Wall on Creag a’Bhancair in Glencoe in the mid 80s, followed by Upper Cave Crag at Craig a Barns caused considerable controversy. The magazines of the time gave ‘the issues’ full coverage, and the debate went round in the ever decreasing circles. But again, the dust eventually settled (after all, there’s nothing new under the sun – McInnes and friends had put bolts, albeit hand drilled, on Creag a’Bhancair in the 1950s), people moved on, and exploration and development gathered pace. The glens were alive to the sound of drilling as crag after crag succumbed to the pioneers, most recently the gneiss outcrops of the Northern Highlands. Which has brought us to the point when Scottish sport climbing is ubiquitous, more or less uncontroversial, and no longer ‘just about early season training and poor weather options’, and neither only for the rock jock. There is, it seems, something for everyone.*** So what of the guides? Rider and Dagg pipped the SMC at the post, 7a Max appearing in late 2012 (inevitably there had been talk of an SMC guide for several years, but no sign – just like those long awaited guides to the Hebrides....). Being a selective guide, it is aimed at the ‘weekend and visiting climber’ and claims to describe ‘all of Scotland’s worthwhile crags (my emphasis) with routes up to 7a.’ It has a Rockfax-type feel to it, with at-a-glance summaries of the spread of grades, approach times, crag orientation, and the potential midge threat for each crag. The maps and photo-topos on the whole are of good quality and look helpful, and there is the usual star system. There are introductions in French, German, Italian and Spanish. Its 21cm x 15cm format makes it easy to handle, and it will fit into a large guidebook pouch. One quirky extra is the inclusion of climbs at Summer 2013
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Blantyre Towers, old sandstone railway viaduct pillars near East Kilbride. Looks like fun, albeit a tad esoteric (Note, I have an affection for climbing on manmade structures, viz my first ascent of the McEwan Hall and bouldering at the Currie Wa’s in Balerno when at medical school in Edinburgh in the late 60s, and more recently, dry-tooling on stone bridges near the coast as training for the adventures on the white stuff.) The guide was apparently put together in a very short time (13 months?), an impressive piece of work
considering the two authors have fulltime jobs, and Dagg had only clipped a few bolts before 2011! It exudes enthusiasm and is clearly a labour of love. The SMC guide, published in early 2013, as one would expect, is the document of record, with over 1300 routes including existing ‘projects’, both ‘closed’ and ‘open’, routes up to (gulp!) 9a, and Scotland’s only (so far) drytooling venues – all three of them. It has everything 7a Max has, and more: detailed historical notes; short ‘top tips’ (about the style of climbing required etc), notes about ‘recommended tasty NMC County Climber
bites’ and other amenities for each venue, and…..more rumbling as the corpses turn…tick-boxes next to each route. It doesn’t have the midge rating, but one can imagine a hirsute and hoary guidebook committee member – perhaps the esteemed coordinating author himself – vetoing the idea of providing guidance about the wee beasties for Nancy-boy Sassenachs – ‘FFS, there are midges everywhere - it’s Scotland – deal with it!’ The quality of maps and topos is better than 7a Max, but that’s an
aesthetic not a practical consideration. Both guides are the same size but, curiously, the SMC guide is in landscape format and is also, inevitably, thicker and heavier than 7a Max, but then noone is going to be carrying the guides on the routes so it doesn’t really matter. In terms of comparison, being a novice Caledonian clipper, I can only speak about coverage of one crag, Kirrie Hill. It’s a south-facing quarried escarpment overlooking Strathmore not far from Forfar (say that with a mouthful of crisps!), the only venue I’ve so far visited. Mr Vaughan and I gave the place the once-over last February, admittedly Summer 2013
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as a ‘poor weather option’ and with lowish expectations, but we were pleasantly surprised. We found good quality compact sandstone, with spaced bolts and no other pro whatsoever, hence no history of trad climbing, but a reasonable choice of grades (see photo on page 21). Both guides would have done the job on the day, since, presumably on account of its popularity, 7a Max includes every documented route there (compared to, say, its Glen Ogle coverage, with 117 routes listed to the SMC’s 160+).
contributing to the greater good as well as to Rider and Dagg’s next holiday. Besides which, at £28 the SMC guide is twice as expensive.
But comparison is somewhat specious; the guides serve different purposes and one would expect both to sell as well as guidebooks sell these days. Personally I like guidebooks, so am happy to own both. However, if you are ‘a weekender’, as the majority of readers of this review are likely to be, 7a Max is probably the guide for you. Part of the profits are to be donated to the Scottish bolt fund, so you will be
Footnotes *quote from 7a Max, page 5 ** Andy Nisbet turned 60 earlier this year – there’s an affectionate tribute to this extraordinary man on UKC at: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.ph p?id=5521 ) *** There’s a good potted history of recent developments posted in December 2012 on ukc at: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.ph p?id=5175
NMC County Climber
Whatever, although I’m not inclined to head out on an exclusive blot clipping road-trip to Scotland any day soon, perhaps someone would like to organise a weekend meet, with a brief diversion to Blantyre Towers on the way home? Just don’t expect me ever to utter the words ‘Send it’, though…….dude.
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The Eskdale Meet (May 17th – 19th) Pete Flegg A total of eight people attended this camping meet - only six of them climbers. The poor weather forecast for the weekend was, I think, mainly responsible for the four last minute cancellations. The rain started on the Friday evening at 11pm as we left the pub to walk back to the camp ground – with most of us unprepared (ie Goretex and umbrella-less) but by that point Aussie mate Mike P and I already had four routes under our belts in glorious sunny evening conditions at Hare Crag on the easy slab routes on Right Hand Slabs. Saturday was a write-off, the rain hammered down all night and continued all through the morning, getting heaviest just before midday. The rain finally stopped at about 4pm, too late for the rock to dry for an evening climb. Luckily though I was trying out my new, large (ie non-backpacking) tent – and we all managed to squeeze in the porch to eat, drink and talk away the time.
Graham Williams on Right Hand Route (VS), Hare Crag, Eskdale,
A Mingulay dish – for one Hoisin and garlic noodles with Spam
The Sunday forecast was good but we woke to low, ominous looking cloud. We packed up and headed back to Hare Crag, a few minute’s drive away from the camp site, with only a short walk in. Determined to get something done I set off up Fireball XL5 in light rain, the route was wet and slippery and I took three falls at the crux. Mike P and I followed Mike Frost and Carolyn Horrocks on Slab Route at Central Slabs with water draining down the centre of the route. Later Mike and Carolyn found Fireball XL5 was dry and enjoyed it. Graham Williams and Howard Adamson climbed on the slabs where Mike P and I had climbed on Friday evening.
John Spencer 1 packet of Sainsbury’s hoisin and garlic sauce 4 pieces of medium noodles Vegetable stock cube Tomato puree Garlic paste One small tin of Spam Black pepper Prepare the noodles, drain but retain a small amount of the water. Empty the sauce into the retained water, crumble in half a stock cube, a healthy squidge of garlic paste and tomato puree, and mix in with the noodles. Dice the Spam and stir into the noodles mix. Season liberally with black pepper (preferably obtained from a CalMac canteen). Consume with a raw carrot and wash down with a can of Red Stripe, cooled in the stream. Bring on that storm!
(Picture on previous page shows Mike Frost swimming his way up Slab Route (Severe) on Central Slabs, Hare Crag.) NMC County Climber
Summer 2013
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Club Business Committee There have been 2 Committee meetings since the last issue. The main items for discussion have been: tying up the loose ends of the Hut (once again, thanks to Neil for all his hard work); further work on publicity and communication; streamlining the membership application and renewal process; and the forthcoming BMC Climbing and Walking Festival. Ravensheugh clean-up The NMC had a cleanup meet at Ravensheugh in early June, focussing on the easier starred stuff. Here's what was done (see photos, page 22): Routes cleaned: Pendulum (VS 4c)Pendulum Direct (HVS 5a) Baluster Crack (HVS 5a & 5b) - both finishes Trouser Legs (‘Northumbrian’ E1 5b’, E” 5c in anyone else’s book) SmartyPants (E2 5c) First Among Equals (E6 6b) was spruced up a bit while the rope was there (not that there was much to clean!) Ravensheugh Crack (HVS 5a) Wild West Show (HVS 5a) Scoop Crack (HS 4b) Cat's Whiskers (E1 5b) no gear but holds cleaned though lots of heather still at the top Note to users of the Rockfax guide - it's better to use the definitive (NMC) guide description of Easter Crack (VD when descending off the 1st Pinnacle. The ‘north east arete’ referred to is Verbal Abuse, E2 5c! Routes on Parallel Crack area are always pretty clean; Crescent Wall (MVS 4b) was used to get on the 2nd pinnacle and is clean. Top Tip: To get off the 2nd pinnacle just ab off the boulders and retrieve the rope
NMC County Climber
from one of the promontories at the top of the crag, no need to leave tat behind. This is an amazing and underused crag, please make the effort to get onto it and get it back into the mainstream of Northumbrian crags where it belongs! Thanks to Adrian Wilson, Sarah Follmann, Ed Scibberas, John Vaughan, John Dalrymple. Learn-to-lead course The Club is in receipt of a small training grant from the BMC which will be used to subsidise a ‘Learn-to-lead’ course in September with the help of Jon Punshon and Tim Hakim, date and venue to be decided, but will probably be Bowden Doors. Ian Ross is coordinating. Details will be posted in du course on the forum. New member profile David Angel (Davva) I've been climbing off and on for 4 or 5 years now. My main experience is with indoor stuff at Alien Rock in Edinburgh. I moved to Newcastle back in September and am keen to progress onto real rock.
People have told me great things about the crags in Northumberland so I'm looking forward to a great introduction to the world of Trad. Welcome to the Club!
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Done and Dusted, 6b, Kirrie Hill Climbers: John Hall & Al Hunt John Spencer
A German scrubber at Ravensheugh John Dalrymple
Ancient wrinkled specimen‌.and Ravensheugh John Dalrymple
NMC County Climber
Summer 2013
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The website includes various discussion forums, a photoarchive for members’ climbing photos, and online guides for most Northumberland crags.
Indoor climbing: £1 off the standard entry price at: Sunderland Wall. Durham Wall. Newcastle Climbing Centre (‘Byker church’) Climb Newcastle (“Byker pool”) - Wednesday. nights only. Morpeth Bouldering Wall. Also winter season Wednesday nights at Burnside College, £5 entrance fee, open to NMC members only.
NMC Website The NMC has a very informative website www.thenmc.org.uk
0191 236 5922 No Nobler County A history of the NMC and climbing in Northumberland. Now ONLY £2.00 Hurry while stocks Last!!!
NMC Guidebooks NMC members pay a discounted price for any guidebook published by the NMC. Currently available are the following guides: Northumberland Climbing Guide Definitive Guide to climbing in Northumberland. £12.50 to members (RRP £18.95)
Contact Martin Cooper on 0191 252 5707
T-shirts Various styles of T-shirt with printed NMC designs and logo are available. Order direct by contacting Ian Birtwistle 07828 123 143.
Northumberland Bouldering Guide The 2nd edition, £12.50 to members (RRP £19.95) For the above 2 guides add £2 P&P if required. Contact John Earl on
Puffins, Mingulay NMC County Climber
Alison Jones Spring 2013
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