Northumbrian Mountaineering Club
Venue Guide
Langdale Meet Lake District 17-19 April 2015
Suggested Crags: Buttress Raven Crag NY285064
Alt.
Faces
Parking
Approach & Est. Time
200m
S
NY286061 0mile/0mins
0.4km, N/NE, 140m, 15-20m
Excellent single and multi-pitch climbs of all grades (D to E5): Middlefell Buttress (D), Centipede (S), Original Route (S), Evening Wall (S), Revelation (HS), Mendes (VS), Bilberry Buttress (VS), Pluto (HVS) then a clutch of single pitch S-HVS climbs on East Raven Crag just a couple of minutes further right/east. White Ghyll NY298072
400m
W
NY286061 0mile/0mins
2.2km, E/N, 360m, 45-60m
The towering west bank of a steep ghyll which contains many classics such as Hollin Groove, White Ghyll Chimney (S); White Ghyll Wall, Gordian Knot, Haste Not, Moss Wall, Slip Knot, Inferno (VS); Laugh Not (HVS); Chimney Variant, Do Not Direct, Waste Not Want Not, Man of Straw, Feet of Clay, The Palestinians (E1); White Ghyll Eliminate (E2); Paladin (E3) Gimmer Crag NY277070
525m
SE-NW
NY286061 0mile/0mins
1.9km, NE/NW, 450m, 60m
A high, exposed location with outstanding climbs combine to make this a lucrative and popular target; be prepared for a breeze at least and more if heading for climbs on the NW side. Mostly multi pitch though the West face has a number of outstanding single pitch climbs. Main Wall Climb, Gimmer Chimney, Ash Tree Slabs (VD); Bracket and Slab, A, B C and D Routes (S); North West Arête, F route, Asterisk, The Crack, Bracket and Slab Direct Start (VS); Kipling Groove, Inertia (HVS); Outside Tokyo/Dight, Gimmer String, Whit’s End Direct, Intern (E1); Equus, Spring Bank (E2); Eastern Hammer (E3); Pavey Ark NY285079
570m
SE/E
NY286061 0mile/0mins
3.0km, E/NW, 515m, 1h 30m
Some Dave Birkett test pieces here amongst easier fare for mortals; can be slow to dry due to drainage lines and the climbs which end on Jack’s Rake can be prone to dislodged rock from those on the Rake – you did bring a helmet, right? Long Scar NY272036 and Black Crag NY274037
580m
S-W
NY277027 4.5mile/15mins or walk
1km, NW/NE, 170m, 25m or 3.2km, SW, 460m, 1h 25m
Single pitch fare, easier on Long Scar with some harder routes to E2 Refer to the guidebooks for other options such as Raven Crag (Walthwaite), Scout Crags, Neckband Crag, Flat Crags, Cambridge Crag, North Buttress, Bowfell Buttress, Langdale Boulders (42 problems VB-V7+), Chapel Stile (37 problems (VB-V6).
Accommodation We are staying at the Barclays Bank Rambling and Climbing Club’s Raven Crag Cottage which sleeps 24 and is immediately behind the Old Dungeon Ghyll hotel and well positioned for accessing any of the climbing in and around the Langdale valley. More details online at http://www.bbrcc.co.uk/ravencrag.htm If over subscribed there is the NT Camp Site which is a short walk away.