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About the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club (NMC) The NMC is a meeting point for climbers, fell walkers and mountaineers of all abilities. Our activities centre on rock-climbing in the summer and snow and ice climbing in the winter. Meets are held regularly throughout the year. The NMC is not, however a commercial organization and does NOT provide instructional courses.
NMC Meets The NMC Members’ handbook (available to all members) and the NMC website list the dates and locations of all meets. This magazine lists the meets arranged for the next few months.
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BMC Public Liability Insurance for climbing incidents. Discounted NMC guide books. Discounted entry at certain indoor climbing walls and shops. Access to the extensive NMC library.
Join the NMC Download a Membership form from: www.thenmc.org.uk Send the signed and completed membership form with a cheque made out to the NMC for the membership fee (see below) to the Membership Secretary at the address shown on the membership form. Membership Fees •Full £25 •Prospective £15.00
Magazine articles This is YOUR magazine so please keep it running by writing about your own climbing experiences. Even beginners have something to write about. Send Contributions to:
Non-members: Are always welcome to attend meets. Note: Winter indoor meets require a minimum of prospective membership (see below) due to venue requirements for third party insurance.
Membership Details Members are Prospective until they fulfill the conditions for Full Membership (see membership form.) Full membership is valid for one year from the end of February. Prospective membership expires at the end of March each year. Membership gets you: • Copy of the quarterly magazine. NMC County Climber
magazine@thenmc.org.uk
Committee 2012/2013 President – John Dalrymple Vice Pres. – Richard Pow Secretary – Sam Judson Treasurer – Eva Diran Mem’ship – Gareth Crapper Hut Co-ord. – Neil Cranston Hut Bookings – Derek Cutts Magazine Ed. – Peter Flegg Social – Sarah Follmann Librarian – Eva Diran Web – Ian Birtwistle General: John Mountain, Andrew Shanks, Ian Ross, Adrian Wilson & Neil Morbey.
As an affiliate to the BMC, the NMC endorses the following participation statement: The BMC recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.
Black & White Photos? If you received this magazine as a paper copy, then you are missing part of the picture as the download version of the magazine is in colour. To arrange for email notification that the latest issue of the magazine is ready for you to download, contact the membership secretary at: secretary@thenmc.org.uk
Photos Unless otherwise stated all photos in this issue were taken by the author of the article.
December 2012
Copyright The contents of this magazine are copyright and may not be reproduced without permission of the NMC. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the editor or the NMC.
Cover Shot Ian Birtwistle on Hadrian’s Rib VS 4c, Crag Lough, by John Dalrymple.
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What’s in this issue?
Wednesday evening events
Wednesday evenings meets .......................... 3 Wednesday evening events........................... 3 Weekend meets 2013.................................... 3 Mapless across the Kaçkars.......................... 4 Club News .................................................... 7 Bowderstone Hut - Endgame.................. 7 Notes from the National Trust - NMC meeting ....................................... 7 Winter social events................................ 8 Winter mountaineering trips................. 10 End of service notice .................................. 11 Berghaus wall: Style icon of the nineties ... 12 Crag Lough news update ............................ 13 Life and climbing in the NMC – my time up North...................................................... 15 Canny Cairngorm Metrosexuals?? ............. 21
Wednesday evenings meets We climb Wednesday at the Hadrian Leisure Centre, Burnside Community College, Wallsend - booked for our exclusive use from 17.45-21.45hrs. Bring all your own equipment. The last indoor climbing is 27 March 2013.
All the following events start at 20.15. More details on the following events are provided in the Club News section of this magazine. 12 Dec 2012
NMC Xmas Quiz – Barry Imeson’s sets his annual quiz questions, Burnside Community College
19 Dec 2012
Hazel Findlay Guest Speaker – Cluny 2
23 Jan 2013
AGM – Burnside Community College
30 Jan 2013
Bryony Balen Guest speaker – Burnside Community College
27 Feb 2013
Members Slide Night – Burnside Community College
Weekend meets 2013 You MUST contact the meet leader in advance, as any accommodation may be limited or already fully booked. Note: A deposit may be required to reserve your place on a weekend trip.
Note: For Centre insurance purposes all climbers at the wall must be either an NMC Full or Provisional member. Members MUST show their membership card at the reception desk and pay the £5 entrance fee.
If you cancel after booking a place and your place cannot be filled then you will still have to pay the cost of your place in the hut.
After climbing we usually adjorn to a pub (eg the Shiremoor House Farm, The Cumberland Arms or the Cluny) for beer, food and a chat.
12-13 Jan 13
Cairngorms, Mill Cottage, Feshiebridge – Adrian Wilson 07970 823 483
9-10 Feb 13
Cairngorms/Creag Meagaidh, Raeburn Cottage, Laggan - Tim Catterall 07704 614 814
Outdoor climbing starts again at the beginning of April.
9-10 Mar 13
Glen Coe, Alex MacIntyre Hut, Ballachulish - Richard Pow 07831 216 024
3 Apr 13
Shaftoe
10 Apr 13
Corby’s
23-24 Mar 13
17 Apr 13
Curtis
Ben Nevis, Riasg , Roybridge Edward Sciberras 07789 280 847
24 Apr 13
East Woodburn
NMC County Climber
More details on the above winter meets are provided in the Club News section of this magazine. December 2012
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Mapless across the Kaรงkars Lewis Preston
My summer 2011 plans for a solo Himalaya trip to Ladakh were thwarted when I broke my ribs in a sailing accident. Instead I bought a ticket to Kos (in eastern Greece) and ferried to south west Turkey, still exciting as a first time to 'Asia Minor' for me. Turkey I soon discovered is a vast country (37th largest in the world) and has borders with eight countries including Iran, Iraq and Syria.
the mountains to visit the famous Sumela monastery which clings to a vertical cliff. Commenced in 386AD, the monastery is famous throughout Turkey and at 1200m includes troglodyte chapels carved into the mountainside. On the mini-bus I met Ofer (an Israeli lad) and Ayboke (a Turkish girl) who had couch-surfed across Turkey. Ofer, Ayboke and I explore, picnic and later agree to travel together hitching into the Kaรงkar range from the Black Sea coast. Two days later we establish a 'base camp' at the track
Team on the ascent, with the summit behind
I had been warned off exploring near those borders so aimed for the far north east of the country where the Pontic Alps (known locally as the Kaรงkar range) lie not far from the Caucasus mountains in Georgia, Russia and Azerbaijan. After a week or so of travel via Aegean coast ruins and the inspirational city of Istanbul, I arrived at the Black Sea coastal town of Trabazon. I hit a language barrier here but managed to get on a mini-bus heading into NMC County Climber
(road-head) settlement of Yukari Kavron at 2175m. We have supplies for several days, even gaz to cook with, but have been unable to acquire a detailed map. My Marco Polo map of all Turkey does not mark any of the places we have passed through on our approach. In the hut/cafe, however, I spot a photocopy of the map in the Kate Clow's trekking guide and set about making a sketched version in my moleskin journal. We reconnoitre the
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valley above but the north face is hidden in mist. At dusk a party led by one of Turkey's top Himalayan climbers returns from a three day ascent of high point of the range, Kaçkar Dagi, 3937m. The hut is buzzing with jubilant ascentionists and after traditional dancing and feeding, an uploaded Dagi slide show illuminates the hut and my climbing taste buds. The north face climb was never my aim, given I came with no rope or partner. A local guide now tells me that even to venture further south and attempt to cross the range would be impossible without a guide (and he quotes a daily fee.) I continue sketching my home-made map. Ofer and Ayboke have decided to split for a few days: he to attempt the trek with me, she to stay at 'base camp' in their shared tent. Very early next morning Ofer and I set out bearing ridiculously heavy packs, with a cloud-inversion hiding the valley below but the range above clear to the south. This changes before noon as we progress steeply into cloud between huge rock pinnacled ridges. Compass confirms general direction but there are no longer any cairns and no sign of a track. A boulder- chasm gives way to a small icefield, not surprising at 3000m in a north facing gully. Ofer stays calm but I sense this is outside his home experience in Israel. With some relief we top out at 3300m at a break in the main ridge, only to see a near-vertical drop into thick mist. I recall the guide's advice in the hut and realise we have indeed come the wrong way. My pencil scribble has features pertaining only to the correct way. We descend into the unknown, traversing broken ledges and short rock steps alternatively, at times out of balance from the laden packs. The angle of the scrambling eases to long loose scree-runs and once below cloud-base we find ourselves in the upper Dupenduzu Valley (according to my sketch map!) In a corrie of spectacular rock spires and boulders. The weather now NMC County Climber
fairs, revealing the main east-west ridge of the Kaçkar range, and further east the more definite col of the Natetlene Geciti (pass) over which we meant to cross. In this wild and isolated place we make an early wild camp (of my solo one-man tent) and ascend the next ridge south to spy tomorrows route. After a solid meal and brews temperatures dip rapidly. I wriggle into my (minimal) 600gm Rab bag trying to find my mat somewhere under Ofer's two thirds occupation of the one-man tent. Clear sky. Milky way; connected to the cosmos, separated from the world, too excited to sleep. An icy wash and shave precedes further descent next day, east and south to another valley system. At Dibi, a high pasture (ruined) settlement, two boys offer us raspberries and want a photo of us (a strange reversal of tourists 'snapping' indigenous locals) on their mobile phone. We continue down to the main Buyuk valley, find the mule track, and labour back up in the afternoon sun up the once glaciated valley to a hidden hanging bowl containing the sloping 'lawn’ of the Dilberduzu camp at 2900m. There is time and energy for a sack-less explore up a ridge further south, revealing above the massive bulk and challenging complexity of route-finding a way to the summit of the range that awaits. Back at camp we meet Benoit (Belgian), Daniel and Agatha (Polish) and Hasan (Turkish) friends who have trekked together for eight days from the south, (the ‘normal’ approach to the mountain). We pool food, share a sociable meal and discuss ambitions for the 3,937m summit on the morrow. A short, cold night and we are up at 03.30 breakfasting by head torch. A four man multi- national team comprising Daniel, Hasan, Ofer and myself ascend steeply to Deniz Golu (a turquoise tarn) in a deep cirque with a permanent glacier above. We avoid the ice by a staggered rock maze descending and re-ascending by a series of entertaining scrambles to reach
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‘the Balcony’, (so named for the view of this amazing range is starting to extend). Above, the main ridge is gained, with the sheer north face dropping off. The traverse that follows is not unlike the Cuillin in wildness but the scale of the rock architecture is exaggerated three-fold. At the top of the final pyramid a red Turkish flag emblazoned with the white crescent moon and star of the former Ottoman Empire awaits our happy team. For Hasan it fulfils a life-time dream to reach this point of his homeland; He takes a million pix! For me also it makes my heart want to burst with an almost overwhelming joy at being alive; finding friendships out of nowhere, exploring and discovering more new and beautiful landscapes and cultures of our amazing planet. Our descent and my continued solo, yet sociable journey across the rest of Turkey is another story. The Kaçkar Mountains will never be dull in my memory. NMC County Climber
NMC Library: The committee has decided that the guidebook library needs to be updated. Members can claim back the cost of the purchase price of a new guide for a climbing area if the club does not already have the copy – the book will be added to the library after your trip. You should ALWAYS check first with Librarian Eva Diran whether you can claim the back the cost of the book.
December 2012
Eva Diran: 07824 627 772, ediran@hotmail.com
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Club News
NOTE: See also related information to the above hut update which can be found elsewhere in this copy of County Climber Magazine:
Bowderstone Hut - Endgame John Mountain
As you probably know we are terminating our occupancy of the huts at The Bowderstone when the current lease expires on 24th March 2013. This was decided by the membership at the EGM on 21st November. John Dalrymple had had a last minute meeting with the National Trust earlier that day at their Borrowdale offices. The National Trust was still unable to offer a lease without unlimited liability which meant that the club could not renew the lease and still remain within the terms of the Constitution (if you are interested look at the section ‘Trustees’ in the constitution). The minutes of the EGM and John's notes of his meeting with the National Trust are attached to this edition of County Climber. There are quite a few consequences of leaving the hut apart from the obvious one of not being able to use it any more. We no longer need trustees (many thanks to Stephen Porteus, Bob Bell, Martin Cooper and their predecessors). We'll need to change the constitution and rules (this will be done at the AGM). We'll need to cancel next year’s bookings, etc. etc. We are indebted to the work of the Hut Custodians, Booking Secretaries, Hut Committees, work meet attendees and to all those who have contributed to the hut over the years. As you will see from John's notes there is a possibility of the NT offering alternate accommodation which we may be able to rent without the encumbrance of a long term lease. The new committee, to be elected at January’s AGM, will be pursuing these options. On a final note we hope to organise a ‘Farewell Bowderstone’ meet in February/March next year. Watch this space! NMC County Climber
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Draft EGM Minutes (see attachment)
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Notes from the NT – NMC meeting.
Notes from the National Trust - NMC meeting John Dalrymple
The meeting was held to discuss the future of the Bowderstone bothy, at Bowe Barn NT Office, Borrowdale on 21 Nov 2012 at 13.00. Those attending were myself (John Dalrymple, NMC President) and for the NT Andrew Thompson (Estates Manager (North Lakes), Alex English (North Lakes Business Development Manager) and Penny Webb (North Lakes Lead Ranger.) This was an informal meeting to confirm the status of the NMC's lease with the NT on the bothy at the Bowderstone, and to discuss other opportunities available. There was no formal agenda, so the following notes are not necessarily chronologically accurate. JD described the NMC's position regarding renewal of the lease on the bothy and explained why the ‘Unlimited Liability’ aspect of the lease meant that the committee was forced to recommend that the club exit the lease at it's expiry in March 2013. JD also noted that the NMC were now turning down new bookings and would need to cancel current bookings, so a decision was needed immediately. AE stated that the NT was unable to take on the repair and maintenance liability because insufficient funds would be available for a property of this nature. The outcome of this is that it is possible for a situation to arise where, for financial
December 2012
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reasons, the bothy would not be viable and would need to be made safe and could become unusable. AT noted that the NMC could continue to occupy the hut until something is resolved, but JD pointed out that it was of the utmost importance that the club escapes it's liability at the earliest opportunity and that we were unable to take that offer up. In the ensuing discussion both parties agreed that bothies such as the Bowderstone are an asset for both the NT and the climbing community and that a strategy was needed for their management. It was agreed that the current form of ‘Full Repairing’ lease was unsuitable and was in neither the tenants nor the landlords best interests. JD noted that the NMC was prepared to assist the NT in evaluating such a strategy and suggested that the BMC are invited into the discussions. JD agreed to introduce PW to the relevant officer in the BMC.
Awesome Bristol based climber Hazel Findlay will give us a presentation on some of her recent exploits including the Odyssey road trip earlier this year which included some classic hard Northumbrian routes alongside other UK locations. She has an impressive tick list across many disciplines: big walling, hard trad, sport climbing, bouldering, alpine routing and more and is regularly reported on UK Climbing and in the climbing press. Come and see the very talented Hazel at the Cluny 2 from 20:15.
Wed 23 Jan 13 - Annual General Meeting The club's AGM will take place in the lecture theatre at Burnside Community College starting around 20:15 giving you the opportunity to have a climb at Hadrian Leisure beforehand (from 17:45). This is your chance to hear what the club's been up to, get a financial update, elect the committee for the coming year, get the latest on the situation with the Bowderstone huts in Borrowdale and help shape the future of the club and its activities by putting ideas forward.
AT stated that there were two alternate properties available in Borrowdale. JD agreed to ask the club about this. AT also offered to try and re-accommodate those bookings the NMC already holds for next year.
Winter social events Sarah Follmann
Wed 30 Jan 13 - Bryony Balen Newcastle University student Bryony Balen, from Derbyshire, became the youngest Briton ever to ski to the South Pole in January 2012 at the age of 21; she will give us an insight into her expedition to reach the South Pole and the challenges faced before, during and after.
Wed 12 Dec 12 – Xmas Quiz The NMC's Quiz-Meister, Barry Imeson, will be your host for the annual quiz at the Burnside Community College starting around 20:15 giving you the opportunity to have a climb at Hadrian Leisure beforehand (from 17:45). The quiz will take place in the upstairs foyer. Ad hoc teams are formed, select a suitable name for your team, bring some festive refreshments (you MUST remove any alcohol cans/bottles you bring) and get ready for an evening of cranial challenge! NMC County Climber
Wed 19 Dec 12 - Hazel Findlay
This will take place in the lecture theatre at Burnside Community College starting around 20:15 giving you the opportunity to have a climb at Hadrian Leisure beforehand (from 17:45).
December 2012
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Sarah Follmann on Sol Pelicanos E2 5b at Drakestone
NMC County Climber
December 2012
John Dalrymple
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Glen Coe, 9-10 March 2013
Wed 27 Feb 13 - Members' Photos Evening Members have the opportunity to present their digital photos to the audience using the Pecha Kucha principles of 20 slides x 20 seconds each for each presenter making for snappy summaries and giving more people the chance to take part. Catch up on what individual member's have been up to whether sea cliff climbing in Mingulay, sport climbing on Kalymnos or adventuring in the Alps and further afield. This will take place in the lecture theatre at Burnside Community College starting around 20:15 giving you the opportunity to have a climb at Hadrian Leisure beforehand (from 17:45).
Staying at the MCoS' Alex MacIntyre hut in North Ballachulish, this is ideally situated to visit the many climbs in Glen Coe or further afield on the Ben. Meet Leader: Richard Pow 07831 216 024
Ben Nevis, 23-24 March 2013 Staying at the Climbers Club's Riasg hut in Roybridge, this is ideally situated to visit Ben Nevis and Aonach Mor with longer days to cope with the longer climbs. Hopefully. Meet Leader: Ed Sciberras, 07789 280 847
Please contact Sarah Follmann in advance if you would like to present some your own photos.
Note: If you are interested in the club organising an introduction to winter mountaineering course, please let anyone on the committee know so we can see if we have enough interest to run another course.
Winter mountaineering trips Adrian Wilson
Winter Meets are they for me?
Cairngorms, 12-13 January 2013 Staying at the MCoS' Mill Cottage, Feshiebridge, this is ideally situated to visit the Northern Corries with its (relatively!) easy access and excellent selection of lowmid grade routes alongside harder fare. Meet Leader: Adrian Wilson 07970 823 483
The meet leader will circulate details of attendees but you must take responsibility for arranging your climbing or walking partner(s) and for bringing your own clothing and equipment appropriate for your intended activity.
Laggan, 9-10 February 2013 Staying at the SMC's Raeburn Hut near Laggan, this is centrally located for access to the Southern Cairngorms, Creag Meagaidh, Northern Corries, Aonach Mor and Ben Nevis. Meet Leader:Tim Catterall 07704 614 814
NMC County Climber
Please note that none of the club's 2013 Winter meets are intended to be introductory or instructional; at the very least you need to have Scottish winter walking, and preferably mountaineering, experience.
Places for each meet are strictly limited and will be allocated on a first come, first served basis. If you are unable to attend a meet that you have booked on, and your place cannot subsequently be filled then you are liable for the hut fees for that place.
December 2012
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End of service notice Peter Flegg
Note: If elected I am aiming to stay on the committee as a general committee member. Thanks to…
This is the last issue of the County Climber with me as editor - from March 2013 you can expect to see John Spencer as editor (assuming he gets elected to the position at the January AGM.) I started the editor's job with the March 2007 issue - when County Climber was still called the Quarterly Magazine. I have edited the magazine for the last six years a total of 24 issues. In the early days, I was mailing out 280 hardcopies of the magazine - a tiresome task. These days I only put about 40 copies in the mail, other members get their copy electronically via email or as a download from the club website. This not only saves me work but also saves the club mailing and production costs (and even helps the environment.) Times change and I have questioned frequently, whether a club magazine is still relevant in today's world of instantaneous electronic communications (facebook, twitter, emails, blogs, forums, web sites etc.)
Alison Jones for typing help with this issue, Liz C for providing proof reading help over the last couple of years. To all article contributors and particularly to the regular contributors: Lewis Preston, Martin Cooper, John Spencer and Dave Hume. To John Dalrymple for the many great photos he has supplied for use on the covers. And finally thanks to John Mountain for amazing efficiency and timing with all the updates on the hut situation over the past two years and before that as Treasurer providing financial information for use in the magazine (he was hoping that it would spark interest from the membership!)
Special Farewell Bowderstone edition of County Climber The next issue of the magazine is due in late, March 2013.
The magazine obviously depends on written contributions by club members this issue has four climbing articles, two of which were the result of arm twisting, demonstrating why I feel that the magazine is perhaps reaching the end of its usefulness. But here’s hoping that John Spencer, the next editor, can persuade you, the members, to keep providing climbing articles for inclusion in the magazine.
It has been decided to dedicate the issue to the Bowderstone Hut as the magazine is issued at about the time the lease on the hut expires.
Anyway it has been a fun six years as editor – I think it is a worthwhile exercise to contribute and to help with the running of the club, the committee are all volunteers and the club doesn’t run itself. Being on the committee has certainly made me feel like a real active member of the club (even though I’m only a low grade climber.) I can only recommend that you also one day get involved and get the ‘real feel’ of the club.
Please get your articles in before 7 March 2013.
NMC County Climber
Please send in your articles about your experiences in the hut and any photos you have in and around the hut.
Email articles in DOC/RTF format (not PDF) and fotos in JPG format. Please send Hi-Res best quality (large file size) versions of photos. Email to magazine@thenmc.org.uk
December 2012
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Berghaus wall: Style icon of the nineties Cliff Robson
What were you doing on 26 November 1990? 'Why do you want to know?' I hear you ask. No it wasn’t an event on a par with walking on the moon or the Cuban Missile Crisis but in its own small way it made a difference. You may have guessed it. Unchained Melody by the Righteous Brothers was top of the Hit Parade but that’s not the right answer. Yes the Berghaus Wall was opened in Newcastle’s Eldon Centre. Climbing walls had just made a quantum leap from brick walls with a few bricks missing, hard floors (well we were hard in those days) and no bolt ons. Bendcrete had mastered the art of shoehorning walls into odd spaces like lift shafts, squash courts and balconies like the Eldon Centre. It is a strange thing. Tucked away above a city street above a shopping mall, above a five a side pitch lurks this once state of the art wall. In beautiful Bendcrete mockrock it offered the area’s first bouldering wall with screw on holds, sinuous curves, finger pockets, crimps and enough angles to get it a hard climber’s reputation. In its heyday it was as full as a Tokyo tube train during rush hour. It also had a couple of additional perks. You could lean over the balcony and watch some bloodthirsty five a side matches or if you went during the day you could see the tea dancers strutting their sequence dancing and snapping to the syncopations of a tango. Where else in the country could you hang from an overhanging flake and watch Saga NMC County Climber
Strictly? And it has retained its quirks. Not many bouldering walls have a descent route. If you top out you have to creep across under the roof and avoid getting concussion. It also has a couple of free standing boulders with virtually no problems on them. I wonder who thought of those? Now it’s rather like an ocean liner that’s been overtaken by bigger, faster and better rivals-still going but now somewhat dated. The screw on holds which weigh about five pounds each don’t make route setting very easy. The new mattresses unfortunately covered a lot of the lower footholds which previously provided plenty of traversing mileage. There’s not much vertical wall for warming up and easier problems. In spite of this, I still go there. I’ve been going there since it opened and have developed a sentimental attachment to the place. I like the fact that quite often you get it totally to yourself maybe apart from the odd distraction in the hall below. As the holds hardly ever change, you can create your own circuits and measure your progress. The only time they did was when some feather brained mosquitoes stripped all the holds from one section and replaced them with virtually blank discs. It took a two year campaign to get them restored, such is the speed with which things move in local government. The perpetrators have never unfortunately been called to account and are rumoured to be still holed up in some Central American republic that doesn’t have extradition arrangements with the UK. Christmas approaches and the true
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magic of the place can be felt. Slip away from the hordes hell bent on shopping themselves into oblivion in the Eldon centre and relish the instant peace and calm of the Berghaus Wall. It’s a bit like Kyloe In but without the walk in. There are now plans to sell it off to make money for the Council so I’d better make the most of it before it joins the list of other great British icons like the Routemaster bus, the red telephone box and the Morris Minor. Or maybe some wealthy arab businessman will pull it down and rebuild it in some exotic location. The Berghaus Wall Dubai? Why not?
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NMC County Climber
Crag Lough news update Mark Anstiss
On Saturday 15 September a team of volunteers armed with their climbing gear, trowels and patio knives made their way to Crag Lough, Northumberland for a spot of much needed gardening. Crag Lough is an extensive North facing whin sill dolerite escarpment offering over 100 recorded routes, the majority of which are in the perennially popular S to HVS range. Although north facing, the rock is generally clean, extremely hardwearing and does not tend to polish. The crag was one of the earliest to be developed in Northumberland and many a North East climber took their first steps on the sharp end here, and with good reason; the classics at this fine crag bear comparison with the best outcrop routes anywhere. However over the last few years the crag has fallen out of fashion, with many climbers tending to focus on sandstone outcrops further North in The County. The relative neglect of the whin sill crags has resulted in increased vegetation on all but the very most popular routes resulting in the familiar cycle of less attention and further encroachment of vegetation. The crag is owed by the National Trust and is an SSSI because of the geological interest of the whin sill. The National Trust was very supportive of the restoration efforts and Natural England kindly provided permission for the work. Twenty five volunteers from the North East and further afield, (including an intrepid pair who had travelled from Edinburgh on public transport) turned out to remove grass and ferns from ledges and cracks, thus restoring a significant number of excellent routes to their former glory. Removal of the vegetation proved to be more time consuming than anticipated however over 30 routes were given a thorough make over (see below); a couple of lines in the organ pipes area took some dedicated souls seven hours each to clean
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from top to bottom! The day was rounded off by a huge and well deserved barbeque courtesy of the BMC followed with plenty of ale in the local Inn. It had been hoped that the fruits of all this effort could be enjoyed the following day but true to form the British weather had other ideas. The timing of the restoration had allowed for the departure of any nesting birds; Crag Lough does not lend itself to climbing in the colder months, however the vegetation will All kitted out for vertical gardening at Crag Lough not return before next year The day was organised by Mark Anstiss and the winter weather will finish off the with the assistance of the BMC and both cleaning nicely. The routes will be at their he and the BMC would like to thank: first best next spring and many North East and foremost, everyone who helped out, climbers are already eagerly looking Tom Parkin BMC NE area access Rep. for forward to their first visit next year securing permission from the NT, Even after hanging in their harnesses for hours on end getting covered in dirt and debris the enthusiasm of the volunteers was unabated. Over the following weeks a number of dedicated volunteers returned and continued cleaning where they left off. There was much talk around the barbeque and in the pub of returning next year and plans are already afoot to continue the restoration next September.
NMC County Climber
Adventure Northumberland for the loan of a gazebo and barbeque, and the National Trust and Natural England for their permission and support. Note: The September issue of County Climber gave a list of the climbs that had been cleaned.
December 2012
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Life and climbing in the NMC – my time up North Neil Morbey
When I look back at the climbing photos from my five years in the North I realise something: I love climbing, but I also see it as a metaphor for lessons in life. And when I'm climbing with friends I am positively giddy and just happy to be alive for another day. I’ll try to identify some of the metaphorical and actual lessons I have learned within an account of my time in the NMC… Girls inspire me to climb harder I joined the NMC back in 2009. Before joining I was climbing with some Geordies. One day we rocked up at the crag and noticed there were some girls… climbing! Nice-looking girls too! PRETTY GIRLS CLIMBING?! I won't name names, but they know who they are. I introduced myself and they told me about the NMC and the upcoming annual meal. A few weeks later, guitar in hand, dressed in jeans and T-shirt and straight from the crag - I find myself in a room full of smartly dressed strangers. I had a blast - and it was
the start to an epic few years in the North East with the NMC, originally inspired by the sight of girls at the crag. They also tend to inspire me to crank harder too, bizarrely! You gotta take the rough to enjoy the smooth My first major trip with the NMC’ers was with Richard Pow (adept and enthusiastic) at the Cairngorms, where we had a long hike in and cooked up an earlyevening stew, comprised mainly of Midges! We slept under the Shelterstone that night (midge-free) and the next day climbed some big routes before meeting up with Eva Diva (organised yet chatty) and some others. When we got back to civilization in Aviemore we shared a curry. It was one of those meals that just taste so amazing, due obviously to the long walk, sleeping rough, but also to the great company. The universe rewards effort, enthusiasm and commitment That weekend got me inspired to be more involved and so I was booked onto the NMC May bank holiday trip to Pembroke, with Robin (Mr. dry wit),
Lakes team, Winter 2010 NMC County Climber
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Andrew Shanks (God loves a trier, and a true Scotsman) and Kin (Kin-sane). We climbed hard - although Robin and I both had to take over each other’s routes, due to our own failed attempts. This did mean I got to lead the mighty Brazen Buttress – one of my all time favourites! In the evenings we got drunk on whisky and then started blowing it into the fire. That was until our eyebrows were nearly singed off! The next two windy days I started building my club reputation as the person who would refuse to back down in the face of bad weather, dragging the others up routes in 30mph winds! Fantastic! Character-building in the guidebook means hard-won fun (or dangerous fun) In February 2010, now engrained into the club, I was convinced by people like Tim Catterall and Adrian Heath that iceclimbing was a good idea. This also happened to be the first of two icy winter seasons. So with borrowed kit we headed to the lakes to practice axe-arrests and easy
and the next day we were in full ice kit throwing ourselves down snow slopes attempting the forward, backward and screaming ice-axe arrests, before finally enjoying a grade 2 gully and summitting on the Great End. It inspired me to do it all again a few weeks later, where I would follow Richard Pow and Sarah ‘Uberschnell’ Follmann (eccentric, yet abrupt) up to Glen Coe. I tried my first lead (terrifying grade 3) and having survived that, I then took on indoor ice climbing and dry tooling the following day to end up with a lacerated nose! This weekend was also my first introduction to Clink and Clank, two almighty NMC characters - Craig MacMahon and Adam Cassidy – a class act! Variety is the spice of life, both in rock and in life ‘Crazy Catterall’ had been chatting to me on the way back about a wee island he sometimes visits, in the early summer. My enthusiasm obviously made an impression, as he agreed to partner-up with me on my
Bryn on Double Diamond, Lundy 2010
gullies. This was a monumental trip. Martina, Lucian and I started the weekend by climbing in t-shirts at Buckbarrow crag NMC County Climber
first NMC Mingulay trip in May 2010. This one was life-changing trip. I have never before, or since, been thrown into
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such an awesome arena of beautiful landscapes, stunning rock climbing and fun adventures with such illustrious and fantastic companions. Standout characters include ‘Bryn-age’ (the glue behind the team), Clink and Clank (the entertainment) and the more vintage (and therefore even richer-in-character) ‘The Johns’ (Vaughan and Prof. Spencer). The girls: Uberschnell, Eva and Martina, were excellent value too and always ahead of the rest of us in the mornings, with the exception of Big Al Horsefield - my match in the enthusiasm stakes - and his fantastic wife Catherine (never met a nicer couple). We all became very close, especially in the party tent on a windy night of storytellers and also on the day where I had small accident when pulling rocks off. Everyone rallied around me like a family. I have to thank Tim for his composure, Gale for her compassion and of course Big Al for his foresight and dextrous hands. Thanks for letting me swim with the seals the following day too I told you the duct tape would hold! I also have to thank Tim for some of the best new routing and experiences in my life.
Sandstone. I tallied my routes from the last few years - I averaged about 300 leads each year since 2009! It’s a small world, so be friendly to everyone If 2010 was a good year then 2011 was a great year. It started with a brilliant trip abroad - Malta with Piotr and Uberschnell. We climbed trad and sport Limestone on a very nice island, whilst living in our own ‘mini-mansion’. Later in the year I would meet the most polite and friendly climber I've ever met, Maltese Ed. He saw my name in one of the climbing logbooks, halfway up a scary sea-cliff route in Malta and thus joined the NMC! – isn’t it great when the small world of climbing unites people in strange ways like this? Every cloud has a silver lining (maybe it’s an in situ nut – ie booty!) I went climbing a lot with Cat in
You gotta have a passion for something in life (might as well be climbing) What followed was a summer of love - lots of new relationships in the club and lots of friendly fun on the crags, swimming in the rivers, BBQ's at Bryn’s and fun in Neil going bananas in Wales the (the club’s) holiday cottage, the Bowderstone hut. Richard and I would do 2010/11, as our relationship was in its some fairly hard sessions on Lakeland youth, but I still made time for the NMC. rock, Peak grit (God that rope burn on In 2011 Mingulay was called off due to Quietus!), Limestone and of course County bad weather. This was very sad, but the NMC County Climber
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weather looked good in North Wales, so we headed there instead. Earlier that spring Craig and I had crushed every route at East Woodburn in one amazing Wednesday evening session, so we decided to team up in
sunshine on some of the most beautiful golden granite in the world. We beasted that island and it beasted us! After one particularly good day of Tim leading Satan's Slip (slab-tastic!) we went to the
Kalymnos sports team 2012
North Wales and crush some megaclassics; Dream of White Horses, The Strand, Left Wall, Cenotaph Corner and Plexus amongst others! There was a minor incident involving banana skins on Left Wall, but nobody was hurt! Later in 2011 I also climbed hard routes in Scotland with Sillem Jnr. (Little Nicky) who was quickly becoming worryingly good. On an NMC Peak trip that summer he soloed great wall at Froggatt three times in an afternoon - for fun! Nick was encouraging me into E3s and E4s over the course of the year. Think positively (about things like small holds) to attract positive things Crazy Catterall yet again came up with a tantalising proposition in 2011 - he invited me to Lundy for a week during summer. Before meeting Tim I always thought that I was the weather God – always having the sun. But Tim also held this claim and when we went out together we got a scorcher, a week of blistering NMC County Climber
best (and only) pub on the island for grub, booze and singing. We weren't disappointed! Several rounds of 'Father Abraham' later we found ourselves singing in a field, under the stars, being attacked by horses and accosted by strange drunken locals. Devon, is my and Tim’s birthplace, but I never realised it was so strange! The rain appeared once we left the island too… spooky! Encourage others (to crank hard). To criticise others is to condone oneself What followed in 2011 was another cold winter. With my new winter kit I attempted to follow Richard into the Scottish hills, but I still haven’t got the hang of it, whilst Richard was climbing like a daemon! In contrast, during Spring 2012 I headed for the hot rock, as it was time to get better at sport climbing! In March, Uberschnell and I had a week in Spain, where we tested each other's patience and climbing ability,
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giggling with excitement, while John belayed, shaking his head. He was often heard shouting up at me, whilst seconding: "Morbey you Monster!" The selfrescue course the following day was both educational and great fun. I worked with Mr Wilson and we both realised that Neil, Clink, Clank & Tim on Mingulay 2010 the NMC was giving us ultimately ended up better climbers and something richer than education and fun; it better friends. Two weeks later, in April, was also providing experiences and we were in Sicily with a good group. I was friendship. getting to know Adrian Wilson - a proper Boy Scout and a true blue. His enthusiasm for climbing and for being together as a group made us all realise ‘what we had’ and that climbing isn't just about pushing grades, it's about encouraging each other to be better and to have fun. This was one of the best sport climbing trips I've ever done. We would later go onto another amazing trip at the end of 2012 to Kalymnos – tremendous fun – Go Team Thunderbirds! Remember that learning is fun – so if you’re not flying, you aren’t trying! In preparation for Mingulay 2012 a group of us were organised into a selfrescue course (with thanks to Richard and Eva for organising it.) John Vaughan (the Bonnington look-alike) came out with me for a climb at Shepherd’s the day beforehand and I was getting seriously excited about the summer ahead. I remember when I was leading a famously hard E2 (EMC Crack) I was running up it NMC County Climber
The hardest experiences are the most memorable By 2012 I felt I had been in the club a while, so I decided this was the year to lead and organise some meets and to join the committee - something I'm glad I did, as it gave me a chance to help and give my opinions. I organised a meet in May to North Wales and climbed with Maltese Ed and Mr Wilson, two of my favourite partners. We got to climb in the mountains of Llanberris, and the crags of Tremadog. I will never forget Mr Wilson's unintentional new route – ‘Ribstone and Cracked Ribs and the Traverse of Death (indirect)’ (E3 5a?) on Carreg Wasted. It was nail-biting to watch, but the epics always make the best memories!
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Take on the challenges while you still can (go bloody climb that route now!) Mingulay 2012 lived up to the 2010 experience, and then some. Prof John (The Dude) got to practise his self-rescue techniques, as did some of the rest of us. One truly memorable experience was leading a crazy E3 with half a rack on Cobweb Wall with Kin, alongside Piotr and Uberschnell. I have to say thanks to Kin for humouring me, following me up and sorry to Uberschnell and Piotr for stealing some of your gear on the way up!
a great tribute to the club; that families are included and encouraged. It was brilliant to have them at the hut and the crags. The trip was organised by John Mountain - a top bloke who has tirelessly kept the NMC running, for which we all offer him great thanks. The newest ‘Big-Cheese’, John Dalyrmple, is almost the antithesis of John Mountain - yet the Ying/Yang thing works perfectly and we have a brilliant, yet slightly mad new president in JD – Many thanks to both of them. The Tremadog day was particularly good, with top routes like Christmas Curry, Valour and The Weaver, but we also went to the mountains and windy hills of Ogwen. Keep things fresh, change it up, but remember where you came from The climbing in the North East has been amazing – I never realised sandstone was so much fun and it has improved my footwork vastly. Perhaps my most memorable county routes being: Rock Island Line, E1 (2009), Back to the Egg, E2 (2010), Space Cadet, E2 (2010), Northumberland Wall, E2 (2011), Woodburn Wall Direct, E2 (2011), Endless Flight, E4 (2011), Overhanging Crack, E2 (2012) and The Tube, E4 (2012). Sarah will always have Original Sin (E3) over me, but I don't mind, still a great memory (and video – ask Mr Wilson). For me it has always been about friendships and fun – and I will always think back to my time up North and remember those great days with the NMC.
Mingulay pirates Kin and JD set the scene
I also got to climb the mighty Arch Deacon and one of the most impressive walls in the world - Dun Mingulay where E2s and E3s were dispatched. This island should make it on everyone's bucket list - it is what life is all about. Appreciate your friends (who else is going to belay you?)
I guess I am a bit of a wanderer and always looking for new crags – so now I have moved a few miles down the country, to Brilliant Bristol – seriously loads of climbing on my doorstep. So please come and see me - come down and explore the amazing Limestone this place has to offer. And please keep the NMC alive while I'm gone! And hopefully there will be lots more Pretty Girls joining too.
In June of 2012 I went on another fantastic Wales trip, in which the Wilson juniors were present - something which is NMC County Climber
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Canny Cairngorm Metrosexuals?? Richard Pow
The day before we headed north, a young female colleague called me a metrosexual. This provided an unusual focal point for discussion between Prof Spencer, Mr Vaughan and myself, as we got to grips with axes and crampons for the first time this season. Debates around what a metrosexual is and whether we were one of them, peppered the more normal discourse of tri-cams or pegs? or cams? or all three and other such matters possibly more becoming of seasoned winter climbers. John V and I arrived at the Strathspey Bothy in Newtonmore when it was still November but the peat in the planters on the high street already had a promising icy crust. John S arrived the next month but only a day later. We knew there was already a good snow cover high up; UKC forums and pictures spoke of plastered crags. But we were unsure of the consistency of said plaster and were expecting some “interesting” early season conditions. We were not disappointed. As we came over the lip onto the corrie floor and the cloud began to thin and lift we were treated to a visual feast more characteristic of February.
We thought it might be fun to offer you, the reader, the chance to join in the fun and test your own metrosexuality with the following quiz.
Q1 - Have you ever used moisturiser? •
Every day – I buy my own.
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I sometimes borrow my wifes/girlfriends when they tell me my skins dry.
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I wouldn’t be seen dead with moisturiser.
Q2 - How do you care for your nails? •
I regularly clip them and file them with a nail file.
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I sometimes cut them but often forget and sometimes resort to rubbing them on the crag/climbing wall to wear them down a bit.
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I keep them in a box in the shed
Q3 - Do you ever dress like Sarah Follman – even just a little bit? •
All the time.
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Only for fancy dress parties.
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Never – I always wear the same manly clothes.
Q4 - Purchasing underwear?
First out that morning and with only the meagre tracks of a fox to follow, the snow gradually deepened as we trail blazed up towards the base of our chosen adventure for the day: Fingers Ridge. As we neared the start of the route, I slowed to let a young, local pair of instructors pass and blaze trail for the final 50m. We got chatting and I decided that we should take the direct approach to the base of the Ridge proper by striking straight up Broken Gully, pointing our new friends to the guidebook start across to our right adjacent to the start of Red Gully. I ran out the whole rope and belayed on a good peg at the base of a short steep corner NMC County Climber
TEST… are you a metrosexual?
•
I always buy my own boxers and its important that they are branded (eg CK) and show above my jeans.
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I buy my own, going for cheap and comfy and just a bit fashionable.
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My wife/girlfriend buys pants for me from M&S and I keep spare boxers in the shed
Q5 - Have you ever been accused of mincing? •
Only by my friends in the pink triangle.
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Only when I make a nice shepherd pie from roast lamb left-overs.
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What’s that??
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Answers page 23 page 21 of 24
Metrosexual man applying moisturiser
immediately left of Broken Gully. I brought John up – so far so good. I then led the next pitch. Although the turf was mainly frozen the snow was deep, soft and totally useless and the fragile rime was no better. I belayed on a large block, just to the right of where I thought I had belayed on the two previous occasions that I had done this route. But the deep snow made it all look rather different and I was not totally confident about exactly where we were. John came up without much bother and I then set off moving right up from the belay to the foot of a small step corner. This was tricky but nerves were steadied as the angle eased and I dug out a good spike to wrap a sling round. Which way from here? The only feasible option seemed to be to make very thin moves right and around a slight snowy arete into the base of an inviting groove. The climbing became even more tenuous and it was with relief that I found a peg NMC County Climber
high in the back of the groove. Still convinced I was on the right line, I teetered up out of the groove with my monos on very little and laying away on a rounded flake. Temporary respite came in the form of a flat ledge above and slightly right of the flake. I had already been on this pitch for more than an hour and I had only run out about 25m of rope. The constant clearing and scraping was exhausting and I had worn through the fingers of one of
my gloves. The only feasible option now seemed to be to move back left across the blank looking granite that my sweeping and scraping had exposed. I made a tentative move or two up and left, conscious of the fact that I was now well above the peg and that the moves I was making were going to be tricky to reverse. This was not IV,4 climbing. Seeing no gear or remotely positive holds in my desired direction I decided to minimise the risk of a nasty fall and delicately reversed, my grip on the flake as I reached down to it supercharged by the adrenaline now flowing. I realised that from the good flat ledge, that I was now once again standing on, I could make a relatively simple traverse right into Red Gully. I quickly resolved to do just that. Whilst bringing John up, a guide with a couple of clients paused beneath me as they walked along the bottom of the crag.
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Professor Spencer not mincing on the summit of Carn Dearg
It was windless and I could hear every word they said. They were puzzled about which route I was on. I shouted down that I was on Fingers Ridge but had escaped right into Red Gully, as the conditions were poor. The Guide said it looked like I had been too far right and had done most of a pitch of Fingers Ridge Direct VII,7… No wonder it had felt hard. Climbing competence, route finding incompetence would read my school report for the day! We continued simul-climbing to the top of Red Gully without bother, although John managed to find some loose rock that the route is now well known for. Fantastic views greeted us on the plateau. Plastered with new snow and looking resplendent in the milky afternoon sunshine.
nourishment having had a lean summer, the crux only delaying him briefly. I heard shouts of “safe” and swivelled round to see John established at the belay and readying himself to bring Mr Vaughan up. I gather they finished the route by doing the top pitch of Yukon Jack. The next couple of days, they enjoyed some fantastic winter walking, John V having had enough of digging, scratching and scraping and clearly more comfortable on fat Cognestyle ice. So It was a weekend of hybrids – the bottom of one route combined with the top of another; kinda appropriate for a weekend when questions of our metrosexuality abound. Metrosexual quiz answers
That evening John Spencer arrived at the hut and we made plans for the following day. Something rocky on the Mess of Pottage was settled for. I had to be back in Newcastle by 5pm but walked up with the two Johns and took pics of them on the first pitch of the Haston Line, before dashing back to the ski car park for coffee and the long journey south. The Professor consumed that first pitch at the rate of a man desperate for winter NMC County Climber
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The website includes various discussion forums, a photoarchive for members’ climbing photos, online guides for most Northumberland crags.
Indoor climbing: £1 off the standard entry price at: • Sunderland Wall. • Durham Wall. • Climb Newcastle (Wed. nites only). • Newcastle Climbing Centre (Byker) • Morpeth Bouldering Wall Also winter season Wed. nights at Burnside college, £5 entrance fee, open to NMC members only.
NMC Website The NMC has a very informative website www.thenmc.org.uk
NMC Guidebooks
For the above 2 guides add £2 P&P if required. Contact John Earl on 0191 236 5922
NMC members pay a discounted price for any guidebook published by the NMC.
• No Nobler County A history of the NMC and climbing in Northumberland. Now ONLY £2.00 Hurry while stocks Last!!!
Currently available are the following guides:
Contact Martin Cooper on 0191 252 5707
• Northumberland Climbing Guide Definitive Guide to climbing in Northumberland. £12.50 to members (RRP £18.95)
T-shirts Various styles of T-shirt with printed NMC designs and logo are available. Order direct by contacting Ian Birtwistle 07828 123 143.
• Northumberland Bouldering Guide The new guide, £12.50 to members (RRP £19.95)
Nick Sillem on Roof Route E1 5b at Back Bowden by John Dalrymple NMC County Climber
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Annual General Meeting - 2013 Northumbrian Mountaineering Club You are invited to the Annual General Meeting (2013) of the Northumbrian Mountaineering Club Place: The Lecture Room, Burnside School, Wallsend Date and Time: 8-15pm
on Wednesday 23rd January 2013
AGENDA 1. Apologies 2. Approval of the minutes of the January 2012 AGM 3. Matters arising 4. Secretary’s Report 5. Treasurer’s Report 6. Hut Coordinator’s Report 7. Guidebook Editor’s Report 8. Change to the Constitution & Rules. These changes will take effect on 25th March 2013, when we will no longer be tenant of the Borrowdale huts. 1. In the Constitution section entitled "Management": "Committee to consist of 6 Officers and 8 Committee Members". References to Hut Booking Secretary and Hut Coordinator to be deleted. 2. In the Constitution, the section entitled "Trustees" to be deleted. 3. In the Rules, the section entitled “Temporary Membership” to be deleted. 4. The "Rules for Use of the Club Huts" to be deleted.
9. Election of Officers The Committee have nominated the following members for election as officers: President – John Dalrymple Vice President – Vacant Membership Secretary – Adrian Wilson General Secretary – Andrew Shanks Treasurer – Eva Diran Magazine Editor – John Spencer Notes: 1. We do not have any volunteers for vice president this year, and John Dalrymple is standing as President for a 3rd year because the "president elect", Richard Pow, has been unable to take on the role. Clearly this situation needs resolving during the course of this year. If you would consider volunteering for Vice President, remember that you can do this at any time before the meeting begins by having two members nominate you. 2. The roles of Hut Coordinator and Hut Booking Secretary are no longer required as a result of our termination of the hut lease. 10. Election of Committee Members Committee Members remaining on the committee for their second year: Sarah Follman Ian Ross John Mountain Committee Members seeking re-election: Ian Birtwistle Club Members standing for election to the committee for this year: Edward Sciberras John Vaughan Neil Cranston Peter Flegg 11. Vote of thanks 12. A.O.B.
NMC AGM 2012 Minutes - Draft Wednesday 18 January 2012 Item Attending John Mountain (JM), John Earl (JE), Sam Judson (SJ), Neil Cranston (NC), Richard Pow (RP), Eva Diran (ED), Gareth Crapper (GC), Derek Cutts (DC), Ian Ross, Bill Renshaw, Doug Blackett, Peter Flegg, Bryn Roberts, George Reay, Phil Reay, John Vaughan, Adrian Wilson, Neil Morbey, Gary Brosnan, Albert Ritson, Paul Sim, Rick Barnes, Stephen Porteus, Adam Spiller, Dan Hirst, Peter Bennet, Cliff Robson, Kay Black, Lewis Preston, Sarah Follmann, Martin Cooper
1
Apologies John Dalrymple, Malcolm Rowe, Chris Davis
2
Approval of Minutes of the AGM 2011 Minutes approved. Approval of minutes proposed by Adam Spiller, seconded by Rich Barnes.
3
Matters arising No matters arising from previous AGM.
4
Secretary's Report (SJ) The club has 135 full members of which 10 are new, 11 prospective members and there are 30 lapsed members. Membership numbers have unfortunately gone down since last year. Bryn Roberts raised the issue of all the new walls fragmenting the club and possibly the cause for the drop in numbers. GC mentioned that posters had been produced to publicise the club at the local walls, and Ian Birtwistle was pushing the t-shirts again. DC mentioned that there are a number of active prospective members visiting Burnside regularly. Bill Renshaw mentioned that the Cluny had been a very good venue for the recent social. Report proposed by Stephen Porteus, seconded by Richard Pow.
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Treasurer's Report (JE) Income and Expenditure There is a significant decrease in the year on year surplus from 2009/10 to 2010/11. This is primarily as a result of the guide book sales socials and the hut. Good practice dictates that subscriptions should cover the day to day running expenses of the club, including BMC subs and Socials. This has not been achieved this financial year, mainly due to an increase in the loss on Socials. Subscriptions have dropped slightly and BMC subscriptions are up (last year we received a credit due to a recalculation) but expenses were down slightly. The BMC subscriptions remained at ÂŁ11.75 per member. Expenses (excluding BMC subs) were down significantly on last year. Peter Flegg again made savings on magazine costs. And we are continuing to encourage
as many as possible to take it electronically. Handbook costs were slightly down on last year. Web site development was this year funded from a BMC grant The loss on Socials was significantly up on last year mainly due to paying for a guest speaker from 2009/10 in 2010/11. The hut made a slight loss. Income was down and expenditure was up. The guide books returned a profit of approximately £2700 significantly down on last year. Although Guide Book sales are down on last year the 2009/10 and 2010/11 are not strictly comparable, some income for Guide Book sales in 2008/9 were included in 2009/10 accounts as explained at last year’s AGM. A truer year on year comparison is in the Guide Book report. BMC grants were applied for and received in respect of Training (£300) and Web Development (£325) Burnside climbing wall made a loss but a reduced one compared to the previous year. We have a new arrangement with Burnside and this winter we expect the loss to be further reduced. Tax provision of £575 is down on last year as a result of the reduced guide book sales Balance Sheet Guide book stocks have reduced due to sales and cash at bank has increased. The ACT Donation is shown as a liability because the payment was not made in year 2009/10. Conclusion In spite of one or two anomalies in 2009/10 we have still managed a surplus and we have a healthy bank balance. The cloud on the horizon remains the hut sewerage and water systems although I don’t think it is as big or as black as we had previously feared. Bill Renshaw reminded the meeting that the club will be called on to redecorate the inside and outside of the hut as part of the last year of the lease agreement. Stephen Porteus asked about the low interest on the balance. JM said that business accounts just don’t get a reasonable rate of interest when compared to an individual. JE suggested the treasurer might want to look into this next year. Report proposed by Rick Barnes and seconded by Peter Flegg.
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Hut Warden's Report (NC) The main focus of attention for this year has been working through the paperwork required for the submission for the permits and permissions required by the Environment Agency and other groups. JM has done a fantastic job and all of the Bookings and Usage Derek Cutts has done a thorough job as Bookings Secretary, keeping records of the hut usage. Usage is down this year to 1270 bed nights, compared to last year of 1535 and the previous year of 1606. There are some recent safe contents not included which may put up member figures a bit and increase the total.
A number of groups last winter had no water and were charged at half price. The figures shown are based on amount paid, not on actual bed nights, and therefore the downturn may be due to lost revenue and not actual number. Fairbridge is now being run by the Prince’s Trust. This may have an effect on the amount of usage, but as yet we are not sure what that will be. Nonetheless, numbers are down and bookings for the coming year show a similar trend. The recession and petrol prices may be a factor. Member use needs to be promoted again. Hut Improvements, Maintenance and Inspection This year we had two very successful working meets spring and autumn both had good attendances. With some significant jobs being completed namely replacing the Living room chimney, replacing the guttering downpipes and getting the cottage door to close smoothly eventually. The usual interior and exterior painting as on-going processes. We also had a club member doing the cooking for the group which made for a very sociable event. Septic tank The current position for the proposed replacement septic tanks is that the club have the necessary permissions and permits in place to do the work. We have ear marked the dates for this work to be completed between 11th March and 4th April, this will give use three full weeks and weekends of effort to get this job done. I have completed a schedule and would like people to commit to which period they will be able to attend. So we can plan who is going to do what. The first estimate that I have completed is indicating a bill of £3,200.00 but this does need refining. The club cannot get out of doing this work. Inspection and Cleaning The Sub Committee operates an inspection and cleaning roster during the year. Every month one or two members clean the Cottage and Hermitage, check that the appliances are working, clean and replenish cleaning materials and report back to the Hut Coordinator. The system worked reasonably well during the year and will be continued for 2012-2013. The roster is not complete for the coming year would anyone like to join the list. Hut Lease Expires March 2013 The NT is prepared to enter into discussions regarding a “More Modern Lease” which will hopefully reduce our financial commitment. This would potentially require some form of Limited Company to be formed, made up from the Main Committee possibly. It’s likely that the NT will want to see more input into the hut in the future to raise the standard of the property and keeping it within building regulations. This will require a persistent effort on the club members part as well finance. Likely expenditure will be: •
Replace the roof (needs to be professional job)
•
Replace window frames
•
Replace floor in bedroom
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Install mains water
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Re-wire the electrics (needs to be professional job)
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Modernise sleeping arrangements
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Modernise kitchen
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Modernise toilets
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Install drying room
Please consider your thought on what the club should be doing with the Lease, renew or not to re-new, that is the question. The Committee will continue to look at this problem and in due course will be asking the club for your opinion. Peter Flegg asked about other possible expenditure. NC said that there were no other major expenditure planned. The National Trust may have requirements after the 13th August 2012 as we enter the final year of the lease. Neil Morbey asked if a risk assessment was to be done. NC said he wasn’t sure and was willing to take advice on this issue. Martin Cooper asked if the committee has discussed the timescales regarding the new lease and putting proposals to the members. JM said the committee have had discussions but because of the work on the septic tank nothing has been decided. His personal thought was that an EGM should take place around autumn. He said he felt the decision whether to continue to lease would likely be one of finances, i.e. if the hut is going to make a large loss then he thinks it would be unwise to enter into a new lease. Neil Morbey asked if the cooker had been insured. NC said it wasn’t and the replacement had been purchased at an expense to the club. The expense had been split with Fairbridge as they had broken one of the hobs. Bill Renshaw said it was likely a big item, if there was a new lease, would be the back wall behind the kitchen and the roof. He wanted to add his thanks for the immense amount of work JM has put in. Neil Morbey also wanted to thank NC. Report proposed by Peter Bennett, seconded by Eva Diran.
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Access Officer's Report RP said he had asked Heckley if rather than notifying in writing a telephone call would be sufficient. They didn’t seem that keen and it the issue might be worth handing over to BMC. Rick Barnes asked if the issue of Dove Holes needed discussing. JM said it would be discussed at the committee. Report proposed by Bryn Roberts, seconded by Neil Morbey.
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Guidebook Editor's Report (JE) Northumberland Route Guide Guide was launched 25/12/2004 There were 6000 copies of the Guide printed. The Guide retails at £18.95 and is available to members at £12.50 + postage and packaging. In the last 12 months we have sold 186 copies (292 in 2011) bringing the total sales to date to 3292. The income generated so far is approximately £38.4K (including sponsorship) Northumberland Bouldering Guide Guide was launched on 29/05/2008.
There were 4000 copies of the Guide printed. The Guide retails at £19.95 and hopefully will soon be available again to members at £12.50 + postage and packaging. In the last 12 months we have sold 238 copies (356 in 2011) bringing the total sales to date to 1369 The income generated so far is over £17.2K (including sponsorship) Report proposed by Martin Waugh and seconded by Peter Flegg.
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Change to the Constitution Bill Renshaw recommended that the phrase “, and up to eight other club members” be removed from the proposed amendment to the constitution. Stephen Porteus seconded this. The final change to the constitution put to the meeting was therefore: To remove the role of Access Officer. The lead in local access issues will now be taken by the BMC as in other local areas. There is also a consistency change to always describe the hut as “Bowderstone Hut”. Sentences one ad two of the Management section of the Constitution shall be changed to read “The Management of the Club shall be vested in a Committee consisting of eight Officers and eight Committee Members. The Officers are President, Vice President, General Secretary, Membership Secretary, Treasurer, Bowderstone Hut Booking Secretary, Bowderstone Hut Coordinator and Magazine Editor.” There was unanimous acceptance of the proposed changes.
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Election of Officers The committee have nominated the following members for election as officers as follows: President: John Dalrymple Vice President: Richard Pow Treasurer: Eva Diran Membership Secretary: Gareth Crapper General Secretary: Sam Judson Bowderstone Hut Coordinator: Neil Cranston Bowderstone Hut Booking Secretary: Derek Cutts Magazine Editor: Peter Flegg There was unanimous acceptance of the proposal for officers. As a consequence of the elections, we shall be notifying our bankers of the new principle officers.
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Election of Committee Members JM announced that Sarah Follmann had been proposed and seconded as a new committee member prior to the AGM. The following list of committee members put to the meeting: Committee members remaining on the committee for their 2nd year: Ian Birtwistle
Club members standing for election to the committee for this year: Andrew Shanks John Mountain Ian Ross Club members standing for election to the committee for this year: Adrian Wilson Sarah Follman There was unanimous acceptance of the proposal.
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Vote of thanks JM read out the following thanks from JD: “Retiring committee members Malcolm Rowe & Peter Bennett & John Earl. They have been on all the time I've been on the committee and have done immense amounts of work on the members’ behalf. In particular I believe John must be the clubs longest ever serving committee man, he has been a member for over half the time the club has been in existence, from way back in 1974. They will be 3 hard pairs of boots to fill. All the officers who've served last year and done such a great job. In particular I must single out our VP John Mountain for his Herculean efforts over the last 2 years digging the club out of our well-publicised sewage problem. All those who've led meets in the last year. Meets are at the heart of a club so I’d like to remind people that anyone can lead a meet. If you've got an idea please step up to the plate.” JM added his personal thanks to John Earl, Peter Bennett and Malcolm Rowe. JM also wanted to thank Caroline Judson who has now stepped down. Also thanks to Sam for stepping in and doing both secretary jobs.
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AOB ED said she does not currently have any fixed dates for upcoming social events, but will distribute via the web and email as soon as she has them so members should keep an eye on the website and Facebook. RP said the winter skills training course was cancelled due to lack of take up. We have a £300 grant from the BMC for training so if anyone has any ideas on how to spend this please let him know. RP has also been invited by the BMC give a talk at the upcoming training workshop about what we have done in this area. PF wanted to remind committee members that the first committee meeting of the new year is next week on the 25th January at his house. Martin Cooper wanted to recommend being on the committee as a way to give something to the club. He pointed out that committee meeting are usually a lot more exciting that the AGM. Stephen Porteus stated that he felt it was important that the club have a representative on the BMC area committee following the resignation of Malcolm Rowe from the position as chairman.
Draft NMC EGM Minutes Wednesday, 21st November 2012 Attending Sam Judson, Trevor Langhorne, Clive Goodwin, Chris Davies, Alison Jones, Neil Cranston, Dorothy Cragg, Derrick Crag, Hedley Smith, Dave Hume, Sarah Hawker, Peter Flegg, Doug Blackett, Adam Spiller, David Murray, Thomas Smith, Ian Murray, John Earl, DG Roberts, PG Bennett, JM Robson, W Renshaw, Martin Cooper, John Vaughan, John Spencer, Will Tapsfield, Jim Rigg, Bryn Roberts, Eva Diran, Tim Catterall, Robin Sillem, Sarah Follmann, Richard Pow, Andrew Shanks, Peter Smith, Tina Evans, Martin Waugh, Phil Reay, George Reay, Graham Williams, Kay Black, Gary Brosnan, Cliff Robson, Adrian Wilson, John Mountain, John Dalrymple
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Apologies Apologies were received from Gareth Crapper, Derek Cutts, Ross Freeman, Lewis Preston, Stephen Porteus and Ewa Szymczewska. John Dalrymple (JD) proposed to allow proxy votes for those whose apologies had been sent. This was carried by a majority vote of those present.
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Explanation of the NMC Committee’s requirements for a new lease JD outlined the key principles that the committee had been guided by in their negotiations with the National Trust (NT) regarding a new lease for the Bowderstone Huts. (i) The lease should not be a full repairing lease. Liability for capital spend must be limited to what the Club can afford. (ii) The rent payable to the NT must be affordable, i.e. the properties must be financially self-supporting. JD had also had a meeting with the NT today, and told them that there was no way that we could sign a lease under the previous arrangements, and meet our obligations to the club, its trustees and its members. The previous lease is at least 42 years old and hasn’t been updated at all in that time. The NT class the hut as a bothy but don’t actually have a strategy for managing bothies currently. They also admitted that had they been faced with the original proposed fee for a new sewage system (~£45k) they would never have been able to afford that. The option proposed to the meeting is therefore the second option, to support the committee in not renewing the existing lease, and giving up the properties.
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Questions from the floor Neil Cranston (NC) was asked about the work required to exit the lease and he said the majority of it had already been performed. There are some things that the NT has asked for that we feel are outside of our obligations, such as the request to fit new extractor fans in the kitchen and bathrooms. NC said it wasn’t yet clear if the work carried out would meet the NT’s requirements however, but had been carried out in good faith. Bryn Roberts said that the building needs major work doing to it, and he felt it was not the purpose of the NMC to look after this type of building. Martin Cooper expressed his appreciation for all the work put in by the hut committee which was beyond what is usually expected to be undertaken in that role.
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Vote on the future of the tenancy The motion put to the meeting was “This meeting notes that the NT has been unable to response favourably to the NMC Committee’s key principles in seeking a new lease for the Bowderstone Bothy and Hermitage, and agrees that discussions with the NT should cease and the NMC’s tenancy of these properties should end with the termination of the existing lease in March 2013”. The motion was carried with one abstention and no votes against.
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AOB Dave Hume asked if the BMC has been informed of the latest developments. John Mountain said they have been talked to unofficially and we would be making an official report to them in the near future.