Mijas
Vol: 12
Issue 289
April 11th - April 24th 2018
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It’s a kind of magic
T II April 11th - April 24th 2018 Photo by Jon Clarke
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Visit once and remain enchanted forever, the favourite 1960s package tour excursion still has mountains of charm writes Chloe Glover
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SAPPHIRE sea twinkles from far below as lilting Andalucian guitars accompany flamenco dancers in their impassioned dances in the grand plaza. The al fresco fiesta has been a free attraction in Mijas Pueblo every Wednesday at noon since anyone can remember. Everywhere along the flowerpot-adorned streets there are snapshots of typical village life: donkey taxis waiting patiently for their next fare, kids kicking balls, gaggles of elderly gents gently snoozing on shady benches. Only a few kilometres downhill, the village’s sibling coastal resorts of La Cala, Riviera del Sol and Calahonda create a different buzz with their trendy beach bars, fast improving restaurants and vibrant nightlife, adding up
to a diverse destination with multiple layers of appeal. The local population of 83,000 is equally diverse, swelled by a multicultural potaje of expats who have come to enjoy a new life in the year-round microclimate provided by the towering Sierra de Mijas mountains. Mijas Costa, a 12-kilometre beach strip stretched between the borders of Fuengirola and Marbella, is a magnet for hotel tourists and holiday home owners. Chris Tarrant and Ryan Giggs are frequent visitors, while Victoria Beckham discovered its spice from spending childhood summer holidays in Riviera. Lorraine Kelly and comedian Stan Continues on Page 18
FESTIVAL TIME: Riders enjoy drinks in Mijas pueblo during the annual feria
Mijas
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VILLAGE IN THE HILLS
April 11th - April 24th 2018
STUNNING: Church stands proud in the heart of Mijas pueblo
From Page 17
electric Tuk Tuks, Mijas boasts Spain’s only rectangular bull ring, original works by Picasso and Gaudi and, something no other resort can surely lay claim to, a miniature of the Last Supper painted onto a single grain of rice. Couple that with the friendly welcome from baristas and shopkeepers and if you’ve never visited Mijas before you’ll wonder why not. The beautifully-kept main square of Plaza Virgen de la Pena is a good place to start exploring. A few strides away is the fascinating old village flour mill. Chiselled into the rock face, a faithfully reconstructed workshop with original machinery sits inside.
A few paces down a slope lies the Virgen de la Pena grotto, a rugged little chapel excavated in the rock in 1548. Legend has it that it was here the Virgin Mary appeared to two children, bringing joy to the villagers. And it is impossible to miss the bright yellow building that houses the Carromato de Mijas museum. Once the private collection of hypnotist Juan Elegido Millán, this weird and wonderful treasure trove of miniature items gathered from around the globe makes Ripley’s Believe It or Not seem tame. Take your eye to the magnifying glasses to admire everything from a microscopic version of Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper and a painting of Abe Lin-
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Boardman also have homes here. But it is the whitewashed village in the hills where most day trippers begin their discovery of Mijas, a village steeped in heritage and culture. Today the ancient Greek and Roman hill fortress welcomes an annual invasion of visitors from all over the world thanks to its timeless charm and enviable location, half an hour from Malaga and a short drive from the major tourist resorts of Fuengirola, Torremolinos and Marbella. Spending just half an hour in its meandering maze of Moorish streets, where terraced restaurants with tiny darkened doorways lead onto expansive sun-filled patios with mountain views, is enough to understand its allure. “There are so many reasons to stay longer,” says Rudi Van Der Zalm, owner of Tuk Tuk Spain whose nippy three-wheel transporters now offer an alternative to the famous donkey taxis. How right he is. As well as the world’s first 100%
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TEL: 952 47 70 50 ARR. DE MIJAS, KM. 4,7, 29651, LAS LAGUNAS DE MIJAS, MÁLAGA
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MIJAS BY NUMBERS
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- Picasso’s ceramic works in the Contemporary Arts Centre Mijas (CAC Mijas), the second most important collection of this kind in the world.
50%
- ratio of male to female residents.
2,920
- hours of sunshine per year (243 days of solid sunshine) SPANISH FEEL: Religious artefacts, white painted homes and donkeys coln on a pinhead to a ballerina carved into a wooden toothpick. You’ll also feel good to know your €3 entrance fee will go to Afesol, a Costa del Sol charity caring for people with mental health issues. Venture deeper into the village to find the non-conformist bull ring. “There was just no space to give it the traditional circular shape,” explains Rudi who shares the villagers’ pride in the rectangular arena and all the village’s kooky attractions. Mijas is also big on fiestas, both new and traditional. The pretty white Immaculate Conception church is the starting point for the popular Semana Santa religious parades while the open air auditorium opposite hosts al fresco concerts throughout the summer. The brief thigh-burning walk up to the Moorish tower vale la pena, as the Spanish say, for 360 degree coast to mountain views although photogenic vistas can be found at every twist and turn of the village streets. The picture postcard calles were inspired by the north African settlers to keep the heat of the Mediterranean sun at bay and it’s all too easy to lose hours discovering their devious charms. But you haven’t ‘done’ Mijas until you’ve visited its ethnographic museum - a lovingly put-together twofloor exhibition that guides visitors through the village’s past – and the Contemporary Art Centre for those Picassos and Gaudis. factory and shop for miles around - and a fantastiEven if you’re not tempted to put down roots yourThose who have the energy should also take advancally ethical one at that. self, you can take a piece of the village away with tage of the numerous walking routes from town that “It’s the most fun job in the world and it’s thanks you from the many delis and speciality shops sellzigzag up to the mountains and down to the coast. to Mijas’s continued appeal that ing everything from exotically-flavoured honeys to “I feel so much pride for my village,” I have it”, said co-founder Jason pretty porcelain plates. says a beaming Rosalia Villatoro Godwin, originally from Glossop, In a more modern and sophisticated way, the Alarcon, an ethnographic museum who shares his passion for chocoscene on the coast is just as eclectic. One of the Not lost that volunteer who has lived her whole late with tours and workshops and most profitable destinations on the Costa del Sol, life in Mijas. neighbourhood claims the Mijas mountain air gives Mijas Costa’s swanky seaside urbanisations and “It has kept its character despite hotels all offer sandy beaches and a great range its growth in popularity and has not feel which makes it it a distinctive flavour. of restaurants and water sports including jet skis, lost that neighbourhood feel which such a friendly and One of his shop staff, Claudia, regaled us in a brilliant Blackburn acwaterskiing, wakeboarding, windsurfing and paramakes it such a friendly and enenchanting place cent with the story of how her mum penting. chanting place.” found her forever home in Mijas Las Lagunas on the fringes of Fuengirola offers reMijas is mouthwatering too. Multiafter meeting her Malagueno hustail therapy for shopaholics while the small, whitecultural cuisine is served alongside band. washed fishing village of La Cala has morphed into Andalusian specialities in this very “She was a tour guide and met him while he was a popular resort town with over 20,000 residents, international pueblo, where Argentinian and Canaworking on a reception desk of a hotel nearby,” offering a complimentary if strikingly different dian restaurateurs vie for trade with the local Spanish says Claudia. charm to its antique sister pueblo in the hills. spots. “She fell in love with both him and Mijas at the Visit once and remain enchanted forever, Mijas is You can even make your own chocolate at the curisame time.” still one of the brightest stars on the Costa del Sol. ously-named Mayan Monkey Mijas, the only chocolate
Auto Quick
e c i v Ser
4,000
flower pots damaged during road works will be restored.
150,000
Japanese tourists visit Mijas each year.
6,000
Brits are registered as living in Mijas.
1,476
feet above ground - Mijas pueblo’s location ensures hot summers and mild winters.
82,184 tion of Mijas.
- popula-
Opening times: 9am - 6pm Mon-Fri Tel: 952 493 997 Mob: 629 270 222 Email: info.autoquick@gmail.com C/ Fuengirola 2 (Bajo Gasolinera BP) 29649 Mijas Costa (Malaga) www.autoquick.es
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ROYAL DINING WHERE TO EAT
Everyone from Lady Di to Jimmy Carter and the Rolling Stones to Julio Iglesias have tested out the now vibrant Mijas restaurant scene, writes Jon Clarke
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tel: 952 00 13 86
Paseo Marítimo Rey de España, 119, 29640 Fuengirola
www.grupopuracepa.com
MEAT-FEAST: At Casa Navarra
Avenida del Compás, 18. Mijas Pueblo
“In the heart of Mijas”
T is one of the most prestigious tables one can imagine. And everyone from Lady Diana to Julio Iglesias have dined there. Welcome to Casa Navarra, where the great and the good have eaten beside the open fire in winter (see right) and the leafy garden in summer. It is a true family affair, open since 1990 and with an amazing collection of wines in its cellar going
Every Tuesday ANY PIZZA FROM OUR MENU
952 59 07 46 Also to take away
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STARRY LUNCHES: Lady Di, Julio Iglesias and the Rolling Stones have eaten here
way beyond that. the coast on Trip Advisor. “We’ve had everyone eating here from Lady Run by Alison and Steve Hyatt, this is a Diana to the Roling Stones and both Julio popular joint, which offers up numerous fish Iglesias and his son dishes - and some excelEnrique on lots of lent wines. occasions,” explains I particularly liked the owner Carlos. clam chowder as a But you are here realstarter, while the Bang ly to try the food and Bang pasta with prawns the real star of the was one of the coast’s restaurant is Carlos’s most original dishes daughter Leire. and a true star. The I particularly loved lemon posset made by her use of vegetaAlison didn’t let the side bles, including chard down. with almonds and This couple became fathistles (cardoons) mous from the TV show with ham, both great A New Life in the Sun dishes. and run a tight ship, if Being a Navarran you’ll excuse the fishy joint it specialised pun, with hundreds of in succulent steaks regulars swearing by cooked over a their place. wood grill, It is not really surpriswhile there ing, given that the pair was some ran restaurants back nice fish in Scotland, while chef too. Steve has worked in The huge many places around changes the world and his famDYNAMOS: Alison and happenily have been running inns Steve at Blue Marlin ing in Mijas as far back as 1760. these days Nearby you might want to seem to be in check out Utopia, where I ate an amazing La Cala, where you’ll find spread of healthy tapas, including hummus, the wonderful Pura Cepa wine bar, as well guacamole and a great burrata of mozzaas the amazing Blue Marlin fish restaurant Continues on Page 22 - currently voted the best fish restaurant on
CONCENTRATION: French masterchef Joffrey finishes off a dish
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Contemporary fine dining
Joffrey Charles is a French chef born and raised in Normandy. He has worked, for the past decade, in fine dining restaurants in Mont Saint Michel, Val D’Isere, Corsica, Dublin and London. Joffrey recently featured in a 2018 Channel 4 programme about his cuisine & opening a restaurant in Spain.
Wed to Sun 1-4pm, 2 Course Lunch €20 & Tues to Sat 6.30-10.30pm, A La Carte Dinner
NEW ORDER: Hugo at his new joint la Cucine di Nico and its Osso Bucco dish
tel: 952 493 909 or 658 748 919 reservations@joffreyslasmimosas.com Urbanización las Mimosas, 3A, La Cala De Mijas, 29649 Mijas, Málaga Plenty of parking available outside restaurant www.joffreyslasmimosas.com
and panna cotta with passion fruit, I am gorella on a bed of rocket and cherry tomatoes, ing to stick my neck out with shavings of parmesan on top. (as I did last year) and tip The brainchild of Pepe Villalba and Ana him for a future Michelin star. Romero, these two young local Andalusians And there is more at wonderful El Oceano, a are so welcome back on their own terra fir- hotel restaurant right on the beach which is ma, having spent the last six years of veritably glamour personified. the recession living and working Head chef William Squires, 31, abroad in Berlin and Bristol. has worked around the world, “We knew it was time to including four years in Auscome back now the crisis tralia and three years in is easing,” explains Pepe, Ireland, and has built up a who is the whiz in the kitchrave repertoire with Asiatic en. “We found this spot dishes in particular. and built it up from scratch, The beef tartare is his tete brick by brick.” de cuvee, marinated overAnd now what was once a night, then rolled in pepperwaste ground parking lot for cars corns before being seared for 30 is today a lovely hidden garden seconds, then rested in the fridge with a great funky atmosphere. HEALTHY: Burrata before being served. And there’s more, with Joffreys special at Utopia I also liked the tempura prawns with of La Cala well on track to bewasabi, as well as the excellent scalcome one of the true culinary reflops with ham, while my true winner erences on the coast. was the original Manchego Arancini, Classy French chef Joffrey Charles offers up or rice balls seasoned with saffron. a wonderful mix of exciting dishes, such as The restaurant offers front row seats right balls of foie served in a hazelnut crust with on the beach and, after a multi-million euro figs, and scallops served with slices of bacon overhaul, is even more glamorous than beand capers. fore. His bubbly partner Lisa Burgess, who worked The only place that can come near it for style in TV for years, looks after the guests with is Olivia’s, where TV star Elliot Wright has aplomb. invested over three million creating the ultiHaving dipped into his turbot with fennel, mate dining experience. From Page 21
WHIZ: William at Oceano
VOTED NO.1 SEAFOOD RESTAURANT IN COSTA DEL SOL ON TRIPADVISOR
EARLY BIRD MENU – BEST QUALITY AND VALUE ON THE COAST Includes a starter and main course with a complimentary glass of wine/small beer or soft drink. Available 6pm - 8pm – 20€ • Early Bird 20€ - 6pm - 8pm • A La Carte Menu
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CHEERS: Joffrey raises a toast
With fantastic sea views, stunning decor and a menu to match, this is an excellent addition to the Mijas dining scene. And, contrary to popular belief, Elliot is actually a very experienced restaurateur and knows how to deliver. For yet another completely different style, head 400 metres inland to find the fantastic family-style Ole restaurant, where Juan Gomez has been on the go for an incredible 25 years. Juan is a charming host – speaking perfect English – while his son Victor is equally
PURE-BREED: Ronda chef Paco Flores at Pura Sangre made a name for himself with a stunning ‘gazpachuelo’ at Madrid Fusion in 2012. He now divides his time between his La Cala eaterie and a new restaurant, Fabrica, in Fuengirola, which used to be the legendary Toston.
What began as a wine shop is now one of La Cala’s finest places to ‘tapear’ friendly and both put a great emphasis on fresh ingredients, much of it sourced from their finca near Ronda. “I buy all the meat and fish and go shopping every day to the local markets to find the very best ingredients,” explains Juan. “And price/ quality is the key to my success.” Expect to eat fantastic stuffed red peppers, delicious lettuce hearts with anchovies, and great salmon cooked in a spicy dill sauce. Looking for somewhere else new? Why not try the great wine and tapas at Tapavino, which can be found up in Calahonda and is incredibly busy. This is no surprise given that Brit Craig Hyatt and Canadian wife Robynne both have a strong hotel and restaurant background. The pair worked for the Renaissance and Vintage Hotels groups in Canada and were frequently dealing in com-
ELEGANCE: At Pura Sangre
EXCITING: Great wines at Sherry House and Pedro at Bella Coppia (right)
plex and detailed wine lists. You’ll find a good mix of tapas here to go with
dozens of wines by the glass. Sit on the great dining terrace and watch the sun go down if you get here early enough. Last but not least, if credentials were needed to run a wine bar, owning your own vineyard
would certainly help. The owner of Pura Cepa on La Cala high street, 30-year-old Bernardo Diego Pullido (far left), has three, including one nearby in Mijas, Malvajio. What began as a wine shop is now one of La Cala’s finest places to ‘tapear’ and, of course, drink wine. There are always more than 40 wines by the glass and around a dozen fabulous tapas to dip into. There is also an amazing list of gin and tonics, should you decide for something stronger. Even better, nearby in Fuengirola, you need to hunt out Pura Cepa Sherry House, which claims to have the largest selection of sherries (330 of them) in the world. Recently opened, the food is darn good too and there is a decent choice of degustation menus. Up in the pueblo you have an equally exciting range of restaurants and new places seem to open by the month.
TEL: 952 48 50 97 97 CALLE DE LOS CAÑOS 13, MIJAS WWW.RESTAURANTEBELLACOPPIA.COM
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Pueblo revolution EVOCATIVE: A magical surprise awaits diners at the Secret Garden
FAMILY FARE: Juan and Victor at Ole
From Page 23
There are some excellent wine bars and places to eat tapas but few beat La Bodega del Pintor, which has a lovely hidden garden at the back. Welcoming owner Amparo was actually born in this charming spot, which offers visitors the chance to dine in a historic 300-year-old townhouse. Atmospheric in the extreme, the restaurant serves up plenty of wines by the glass to go with its tempting tapas. “I wanted to create the sense that you are dining in someone’s home,” explains Amparo, whose 86-year-old mother still lives upstairs. “The whole family comes and goes and my brother even runs an apartment hotel at the back,” she adds. Another excellent place to visit is La Bella Coppia, an Italian restaurant run by Pedro for nearly three decades which just gets better and better. As well as a great range of pastas and pizzas, the place specialises in steaks and quality meats, grilled to perfection. Make sure Pedro also carves you a few slices of his amazing ham. Also be sure to look out for the oasis known as the Secret Garden, tucked away behind its more typical whitewashed sister restaurant Aroma. It’s a delight to kick back in the beautiful garden in good weather where you can enjoy a nice mix of authentic Iberian dishes alongside Argentinean fare – particularly steaks - thanks to co-owner Hugo German. Part of a group of restaurants owned by Hugo and his business partner Thomas Weller, make sure to look out for their Taberna Meguinez (which means ‘Are you winking at me?’) which has an excellent menu, as well as the fishy delights at Latitud 36. Then there’s Tapintxos, inspired by Thomas’s love of the north of Spain, and his new Italian La Cucine di Nico, where the osso bucco is something very special and the pizzas are probably the best in the village.
A TASTE OF HOME
IF there was one word to describe The Almond Tree it would be ‘fresh’. From the burgers to the apple crumble, everything in the cafe, based in Sitio de Calahonda, is made anew every day. In an interesting twist of fate the new expat owner, Mandy, had her first Spanish job in the cafe when she arrived 18 years ago. Now she is the owner and passionate to carry on with the tradition of good quality British food, that offers a taste of home away from home. Set on a cobbled courtyard overlooking a water fountain, and with seating available inside and out, The Almond Tree is both child friendly and the perfect place to relax. Why not read one of the complimentary newspapers and enjoy a glass of wine or something stronger from their wide range Mon-Fri: 9am-4pm of liquors and spirits? The cafe is open 9am to 4pm Sat: 9am-3pm Monday to Friday and 9am to Calle de Los Adarves, 3pm on Saturdays.
Breakfast, Lunch & Snacks El Zoco, 29649 Mijas