Serrania de Ronda supplement

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www.theolivepress.es

November 20th - December 3rd 2019

Bewitched by fairytale Ronda Y This picture-perfect mountain town has charmed many an artist in time past and many famous people recently yet still retains its mythical appeal. Robert Firth shares the magic

OU don’t have to be writing the next award-winning novel or screenplay to appreciate Ronda, but it helps. Artists from Ernest Hemingway to Orson Wells – both commemorated with busts in the town – have made pilgrimages to Ronda for centuries in search of artistic inspiration. And it’s easy to see why from the moment you begin your journey here in the south east – just outside the town’s walls. For this is the only place you should begin your trip to Ronda. To really understand this historic medina, you have to first leave it and start again outside the town’s walls.

From this vantage point, Ronda – dripping with history – perches monumentally above the olive and auburn countryside it overlooks. And through winding dirt tracks by ramshackle farms tended by shepherds with crooks in the shadows of the fortress and up stone steps towards the town, you catch a glimpse of the mythic beauty that transfixed so many artistic geniuses. So stunning is Ronda’s puente nuevo, bridging the canyon the town is built over, that Germany’s most famous poet, Rainer Maria Rike, credited his stay at the Reina Victoria hotel overlooking the ravine with curing his writer’s block.

Remote

Around almost every corner is tucked a stunning church, immaculately preserved historical ruins or a viewing point over postcard landscapes. If entering the town the proper way from the south, a stop-off at the Arab Baths is almost obligatory.

Indeed passing through the exceptionally well-preserved 13th century hammam was mandatory for visitors to the Muslim medina when the town was a stronghold of the Emirate of Granada. It was one of the last places to fall to Catholic rule. After the conquest, its remote location in the Sierra de las Nieves National Park made it a refuge for Muslims fleeing perRECENT VISITORS: J.K Rowling, Anne Hathaway, Gordan Ramsay, Doctor Who star Jodie Whittaker and Ricky Gervais

Continues next page

18 November 20th - December 3rd 2019 From previous page

History town

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secution during the Spanish Inquisition.

Reminders of Ronda’s Moorish past are always lurking just a few inches below the surface of its Christian landmarks.

The sublime blend of European gothic, renaissance and baroque styles that converge in the Church of Santa Maria unravel on the site of a former mosque.

From the church rooftop, you can gain unparalleled views across town towards the mountains of the Sierra de las Nieves.

But its appeal is not limited to imposing artefacts of bygone religious struggles.

It is also home to the oldest and largest bullring in Spain.

While Ronda’s Plaza de Toros seats a modest 5,000, its rueda (the sand pitch where the spectacle takes place) unfurls over 66 metres, making it larger than Madrid’s bullring. And while a few other bullrings predate Ronda’s, none prior to its completion were constructed of its size or entirely from stone.

The onsite museum is a must-visit, housing a colourful collection of bullfighting costumes through the centuries. You can also find a unique etching of Francisco high street, Carrera Espinel, tends to get clogged Goya’s La Tauromaquia at the aptly named Muwith large groups of gawking tourseo Taurino, making it an unmissaists, come lunchtime. ble stop-off for art fanatics.

When you’ve had your fill of culWith so many sights to see and with ture, Ronda is rife with tapas bars, Don’t miss so much to take in, you’re probaboth hipster and traditional, where bly feeling a bit peckish. Arriving Goya’s La you can stuff yourself with as much on a bitterly cold Sunday morning, cured ham, olives and seafood as Tauromaquia I picked up a sumptuous churros you desire. However, sprinkled in con chocolate in Plaza del Socorro etchings at the between these restaurants off the for the price of a cappuccino back streets around Plaza Espana, is a in the UK, which kept me satisfied bull ring rich selection of eateries catering well into the afternoon. The streets to other national cuisines. I tried around the square are bursting with out Il Forno A Legna on Calle Nuecafes and artisan shops and well va, where I gorged solo on the Tagliere salumi e worth checking out. However, if you’re visiting on formaggi sharing platter, given a Spanish twist a weekend it pays to be an early bird as as the with jamon serrano and salchichon and washed PERFECT PITCH: Painting in the Tajo gorge and (left) the cathedral with its Arabic roots

19 November 20th - December 3rd 2019 down by a sharp glass of vino tinto – divine!

If you’re passing the night in Ronda, come day two you’ll be looking to work off some of the calories from all the wine, meat and cheese you’ve scoffed. One of the best walks around the town begins just outside the imposing Almocabar gate on the southern side of the medina.

Take a right onto Calle Prado Neuvo and soon you’ll find yourself in a network of vineyards, olive trees and fincas which sit in Ronda’s 1,500m wide Hoya del Tajo.

The track down, the Camino de los Molinos, was originally constructed in the mid 20th century to provide access to a hydroelectric power station in the gorge.

Today it offers stunning views of the colossal sandstone and limestone plateau Ronda sits upon, and the other less-photographed side of Puente Nuevo.

And no one should leave Ronda without taking a walk up (or down) the Jardines de Cuenca.

Also known as the Rose Gardens, 25 metres separates the lowest and highest terrace of these ornamental hanging gardens which run above the Tajo de Ronda, offering stunning views towards the Sierra de las Nieves in the east.

And with that you’ve probably given Ronda every last breath.

But of course, the secret is, you’re never finished with it.

Around every cobbled alley there’s another architectural gem and, with every shift in the clouds, another subtle way of viewing Andalucia’s most wild and breathtaking of towns.

BANDOLEROS: Almocabar arch and Spain’s oldest bullring (below)

VINOS de RONDA ONLINE

Outstanding wines from Ronda and Spain

NEW ‘VINOS DE RONDA’ website with 180 different wines Picture by Geoff Scott Simpson

www.vinosderondaonline.com

Trailblazers

The word on the street from some of Ronda’s famous visitors…

Syrian prince Abu’l-Fida (1273-1331) “Elegant and lofty city in which the clouds serve as a turban and its towers as a sword belt”

REGULAR VISITOR: Orson Welles American author Orson Welles (1915-1985) “A man is not from where he is born, but where he chooses to die.”

Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges (1899-1986) “It is here, in Ronda, in the delicate penumbra of blindness, a concave silence of patios, leisure of the jasmine and the light sound of water, which summoned up memories of deserts.”

Irish novelist and poet James Joyce (1882-1941) “Ronda with the old windows of the houses, the eyes which spy out hidden behind the latticework so that their lover might kiss the iron bars.”

German poet Rainer Maria Rilke (1875-1926) “The spectacle of this city, sitting on the bulk of two rocks rent asunder by a pickaxe and separated by the narrow, deep gorge of the river, corresponds very well to the image of that city revealed in dreams.”

Selections from a huge range of bodegas

Jamoneria Granadina vinos, ibericos, gourmet & quesos

Professional ham cutter for all events

Tel: 605 31 58 68 / 952 87 10 13 email: info@tintosderonda.com Calle Setenil 20, 29400 Ronda (Málaga)

20 November 20th - December 3rd 2019

After selling dozens of homes this year, Olvera Properties, urgently needs more stock

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Gateway to history

We want more!

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T’S been so busy for the team at Olvera Properties this year, that they have had to take on a new agent.

Step in, cool hand Kevin Park, 59, who arrived in the Serrania de Ronda, having worked for nearly two decades in the real estate market in Italy.

With a marketing degree at University College, in London, and an incisive knowledge of the upmarket rural areas of Tuscany and Umbria, he was perfect for the role.

“He has hit the ground running,” explains boss Zoe Males. “And just in the nick of time, as the market continued to grow nicely this year.”

As well as selling over two dozen properties this year, the agency - which covers a big area from the Serrania de Ronda to the Sierras de Cadiz - has had some excellent clients.

While the UK market has slowed down a little, there have been plenty of buyers from other northern European countries.

“And that said we had an English client who came over last Friday to see a couple of properties and by Monday morning he had put down a deposit,” continues the motherof-four, who divides her time between Olve-

DREAM TEAM: Kevin Park with Zoe and Anne Marie ra and Wales.

The Welsh mother-of-four certainly knows better than most having worked in the area since moving there in 2004.

Today, she and her team, which also includes capable Anne Marie, handle over 300 properties, stretching from Ronda to Zahara de la Sierra and from Olvera to Campillos.

“It’s a big area, but we know every listing inside out and are good at matching buyers with homes,” explains Zoe. There are some incredible good deals to be had there, particularly in the sleepy towns of Algodonales and Zahara.

Either way, the Serrania property

market finally started to pick up again two years ago, after flatlining prices for half a decade.

“Thing’s have really picked up in the last couple of years,” adds Zoe. “Townhouses that we were selling for €40,000 three years ago are now selling for €60,000, and people are coming with higher budgets” “There are also a lot more country property buyers in the €260,000 bracket,” she adds.

Visit www.andaluciaolveraproperties.com and contact the team at olveraproperties@hotmail.com or (0034) 686 131 908 or 684 09 29 67 in spain or (0044) 7969 450 206 in the UK

It’s been a key Andalucian nerve centre since the time of the Romans and back in the days of Al Andaluz, Ronda was a key stopping off place for travellers. It´s no wonder then that you feel like you have stepped back in time in the cobbled streets of Ronda old town. Around every corner you will find historic palaces and townhouses, each with their very own original entrances. Many hide grand townhouses inside (left), while others lead to emblematic squares.

21 November 20th - December 3rd 2019 The historic Roman town of Setenil de las Bodegas is a real eye opener and amazing for p h o to g r a phy. Nestled in the rolling landscape, 20 minutes out of Ronda, it was built around a series of caves, w h i c h served to keep the wines of the Romans cool in summer, hence its name. It is best to leave your car outside the town, wander up to the old fortress before heading down to the famous overhanging cave for a fine tapas lunch.

Cavemen colony

Secret Serrania

REPUBLIC OF FUN Friendly Arriate sits just five minutes outside Ronda, but is a completely different world. This charming village of nearly 5000 souls is a bustling place and fiercely independent of big sister Ronda, from whom it officially broke free some 400 years ago. It has a warm, homely feel about it and a great mix of local shops, restaurants and places to stay. Pick of the bunch to eat is El Muelle, a converted train station, while you must spend the weekend at either Hotel Arriadh or finca Alcantarilla. Its Fiesta en el Aire festival in early Autumn is now legendary and attracts nearly 20,000 punters over a long weekend.

From bandit hideouts to Roman wine cellars, there is so much to see and do close to Ronda, writes Jon Clarke

Preaching the blues

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ONDA is surrounded by two natural parks, the Sierra de las Nieves and the Sierra de Grazalema, not to mention its very own breathtaking Serrania.

These surrounding hills are creaking with wonderful walks and pretty towns and villages to visit, all easy to reach in the car and most with their own excellent places to stay and eat. Here are a few top picks for a trip out of Ronda.

While it’s about as stunning as any of the pretty villages around Ronda, there is one big difference with Juzcar… it’s blue. This is thanks to the Smurf movie that in 2011 decided to use the tiny village as the mythical base of the tiny creatures. It has been used a handful of times since and voted to stay blue some years back. But apart from the many attractions for kids, based around the movie, it is also the perfect place for a walk and to see Griffon vultures and crag martins.

Bandit territory The Serrania was once a major stronghold for bandoleros (bandits) and the tiny towns of Benaojan and Montejaque were famously where many holed up. But there is much more, such as the Cueva de la Pileta, near Montejaque (left), which has the oldest cave paintings in Spain, while Benaojan is the centre of the ham and sausage industry. There is also a fabulous walk from Benaojan Estacion down the river to Jimera de Libar, from where you can get the train back. At each end is a great lunch spot, with hotel Molino del Santo, when open in season, the obvious pick.

OUTDOOR VIBES: Visitors to Fiesta en el Aire festival

Fanning its fortune

Prehistory kept alive For anyone wanting an idea of what life was like in Ronda 5,000 years ago, head to Algaba, a short drive out of Ronda. This wonderful estate has recreated a prehistoric village showing clearly how the area’s forefathers lived, how they ground their bread, decorated their homes and what they did with their dead. There are also lots of rare breeds of cows and goats and you can even stay in the nearby finca if you fancy it. Visit www.algabaronda.com

Roman Ronda A 15-minute drive from Ronda takes you to the ancient city of Acinipo, where the Romans built another ancient settlement. The highest hill for miles around, it still has much evidence of their skills with a large part of its amphitheatre intact and a lot more to look at, not to mention the views. The visitor centre is only open for the morning, but one can always climb up to the amphitheatre out of hours.

An hour walk from Ronda will take you to one of the most stunning natural sites, the Cueva de Abanico (the Fan Cave). Near here celebrated flamenco star Estrella Morente, and husband bullfighter Javier Conde were planning to build a hotel and it is no surprise why. This is one of the most beautiful walks imaginable, with bits of Roman road to discover, ruined towers and then the amazing cave and river at the end, perfect for a picnic.

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22 November 20th - December 3rd 2019

Olive Press Princeton interns Regina Lankenau and Maya Eashwaran run down their rev count in Ronda where slow travel is the new mantra

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WO hours before midnight, the whitewashed walls and polished cobblestones of Ronda’s Barrio de San Francisco are momentarily painted an olive oil gold. We follow the creeping sunrays down a callejon on Calle de Angelita Aparicio, the slap of our sandals the only sound in this corner of the cloistered mountain town.

At the end of the dipping alleyway we come to a plot of well-tended land where Jose Luis, a Rondeño with salt-and-pepper hair, waves us over. Crouching down, he tells us his allotment is ‘just a hobby,’ and, chuckling at our fascination, hands over a zucchini the size of his forearm.

‘A gift,’ he says.

Shortly after, he adds a cucumber to the mix, SLOW TRAVEL: Maya practices getting lost in the heart of Ronda old town clumps of dirt still clinging to the knobby skin.

For many, travelling is a desperate race to hit the top attractions before the sun sets.

Itineraries in hand, they eat quickly, walk fast, ticking the sights off their checklists like chores. Each day is swallowed before it can be chewed.

But for others, the act of travel is less planned. Days are spent wandering. A 20-minute walk could take an hour. Detours are welcomed, and locals become the best of guides.

Slowness, as a concept, began in 1986 with the slow food revolution. After the first McDonald’s opened in Italy on Rome’s Plaza de Spagna, thousands assembled to protest. Then-journalist Carlo Petrini made a name for himself by passing out plates of traditional Italian penne pasta to the protestors. Three years later, Petrini found himself at the forefront of what is now known as the Slow Food Movement, an international organisation dedicated to the preservation of local food and the traditional lifestyle.

With tapas and sobremesa among the national pastimes, Andalucia is ideal for this hub in 2014 to provide a different approach novel approach.

“There’s no way you can understand the kind of unstructured exploration. And one to tourism in their hometown. town in particular has made Petrini’s slow Espousing the slow philosophy, at one end culture of a place with ordinary tourism. You of this hip locale is a brightly-lit classroom, have to get under the skin of the place,” living principles its mantra.

Ronda, surrounded by the Serrania de Ron- at the other an array of artisan products, said Annie. “We’ve been in Ronda for 12 da and punctuated by craggy outcroppings, from wine to fans. The relaxed vibe is com- years now, and we’re still discovering new has managed to maintain agricultural tradi- pleted with a mosaic-encrusted bar, an in- things.” door swing, a back terrace “We came with the intention of assimilating tions dating back to the Rewith picture postcard views into the culture,” John added. conquista. and the friendly presence of Entrelenguas actively works to protect that If, from a distance, the town English Pongo, the dalmatian. cultural authenticity and stave off the influx does not look very alive it is In its five years, Entrelen- of mass tourism. because residents are probclasses, leather guas has formed several “Many places attract tourists by making ably ensconced in one of partnerships offering an up products. These places aren’t real, and the many plazas. Retirees in workshops, authentic taste of life in they aren’t being honest with tourists,” said Panama hats shuffle around organic farming Ronda. English classes, Rodriguez. As a native who doesn’t dance in groups of three, chatting leather workshops, organic flamenco or condone bullfighting, she’s also over drinks. Families gather and free hikes farming and free hikes are keen to show other sides of Spain not covfor al fresco dining, their kids among the immersive Span- ered in glossy travel brochures. playing until late evening. ish experiences on offer. “We know the local produce, the local There is no need for security cameras, as all the terraces are equipped According to Montesinos, ‘the goal of these wines. Those other places are contributing cultural events is to meet other people from to the clichés of Spain,” she added. with observant abuelas.

In a corner of one of Ronda’s winding Ronda’ which, he added, ‘is what many peo- However, for the traveller pressed for time, streets, Entrelenguas invites both tran- ple who pass through are most looking for.’ it isn’t always easy to differentiate between sient visitors and settled expats to learn For British retirees John and Annie, Spanish the manufactured and the authentic. It was more about Spanish language, culture, and classes at Entrelenguas are key to helping surprising to learn that the ‘paella individutourism. Mar Rodriguez, Javier Criado, and them become Spanish citizens. They have al’ commonly advertised in restaurants was Alejandro Montesinos — a trio of Rondeño been taking classes for the past three a phenomenon invented for the checklist specialists — founded this cross-cultural months and are proponents of the centre’s traveller; the overpriced dish is far from the family ritual of sharing a cauldron-sized paella on a Sunday.

To guide travellers away from the trite, Entrelenguas offers a map highlighting places that have been vetted for authenticity. Distinguishable by an ‘Experience Local’ sign, these shops provide the best seasonal It’s the moment Napogoods. By sourcing their leon’s unpopular army is products entirely from finally sent into retreat by surrounding farms, they a legion of local townsalso contribute to the folk. Pitchforks, muskets town’s sustainable development. and all... And Ronda RoIn the old town, La Tienmantica, when the whole da de Trinidad is all you town dresses up in 19th expect from a traditional century garb, in spring is venta: an impressive linea must-visit event up of jamon iberico hung from the ceiling, and an

The art of taking it slow

Battle stations

23 November 20th - December 3rd 2019

Entrelenguas: coming to the cultural hub INNOVATIVE centre Entrelenguas offers a space where tourists can learn Spanish, visit Ronda and enjoy cultural events.

Set up by three local Rondenos in 2014, its aim is to provide an authentic Andalucian experience to its clients, who number hundreds every year.

It vows to encourage the Slow travel travel philosophy ‘to get away from the masses and the clichés and focus on having a real time’ while in Spain.

Its useful website, with a regularly updated blog, has many helpful articles on Ronda, as well as some excellent podcasts on learning the lingo, as well as where to park your car when visiting the town.

Throughout the year, the centre runs cultural pop-ups, music festivals, gastronomic events, art exhibitions, and concerts.

Visit www.entrelenguas.es for more information AUTHENTIC: Bounty of jamon at Tienda de Trinidad assortment of chorizo, goat cheeses, wines three brothers, the unpretentious decor and beers from which to sample the full An- and standing-only room does nothing to dalucian experience. reel in unsuspecting tourists. And that is It’s been open since the 1950s and Miguel, precisely its charm. the owner, recommends visIt’s a different story round iting the bakery down the the corner in Ronda’s busstreet, Antonio’s Panaderia The faces of the tling Plaza España, where Alba, to pick up some fresh McDonald’s is doing a brisk bread first. Slicing it in two, people who gave trade — a sight that would he expertly drapes several have made Petrini weep. slices of jamon on top and you directions to Our shoes skid along slipdrenches them in olive oil. places unlisted pery Puente Viejo, worn This classic bocadillo is the smooth by centuries of on maps perfect accompaniment to a travellers, both friendly and stroll through the town. conquering. The walk to the Across the Puente Nuevo, bus station under the swelpast the camera-happy sightseers, sits El tering sun is one we severely underestiLechuguita, a bar offering over 80 different mated; carting our suitcase up the bridge tapas at less than a euro each. Owned by was an almost Sisyphean task.

Earlier that morning, we carefully wrapped the zucchini and cucumber Jose Luis had so thoughtfully gifted us.

Sandwiched between a sun hat and a water bottle, the vegetables jostled around in our case during the journey back to the Costa del Sol. Travel can be a dislocating experience in so many ways. But, tucking into our fresh ‘campo’ zucchini stir fry back home, it becomes obvious why it’s worth it. Far more than the picturesque sights and Instagram opportunities, the human memory bank stores the best moments.

The faces of the people who gave you directions to places unlisted on maps. The kids who showed you shortcuts to the best views in town.

The simple kindness of a farmer.

24 November 20th - December 3rd 2019

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My slice of paradise While she stood out like a sore thumb, Scandinavian expat Karethe

HAD never been kissed so much in my enLinaae was so enamored with her new life in Ronda, she wrote a book tire life.

Actually, at the risk of offending Winston about it. The Olive Press presents some of the unexpurgated highlights Churchill, I should qualify that: never had I been kissed as many times, by so many we had just met but already kissed, in a private were consumed with abandon, rinsed down people, all of whom I didn’t know, as that party merely weeks after landing on European with inordinate amounts of spirited liquids. very day. soil. Of course, I couldn’t make out a single Somewhere in the crowd, a man picked up a In my twenties I had lived in Paris, where they conversation, let alone more than a handful of guitar, using the body of the instrument as a kissed you three or even four times, but Pariwords. drum. People started clapping, hands cupped sian kisses were usually cold and restrained, To me, it was all a visual spectacle of gesticuand fingers spread in a rather awkward manoften placed without touching your cheek. lating hands and moving mouths. ner, hitting a beat I could not even attempt to Here, on the other hand, they kissed you so you In spite of the rural campo setting, most of the follow. felt it and heard it and ended up covered in lipwomen were decked out for show, wearing eelOccasionally the musician stopped to gulp stick smudges. This was Andalucía. tight dresses or delicate lace, some in daring down a pint of what looked like undiluted whisI was surrounded by a cacophony combination. All were dripping in ky, but who was I to judge? I was not the one of voices, prattling at ear-splitting jewellery, shocking with colour, playing. A woman, who I later found out was volume, all on top of the others. and vertically enhanced by at his wife and the best flamenco singer in town, Eel-tight Somehow the speakers seemed least 10 centimetres of heels. started humming. Magically, all conversation dresses, able to make out the multiple layThe señores sported soft leather stopped. ers of conversation and jump in loafers and pants in colours that “Vamos, Rosa!” people around her implored. delicate lace with the appropriate responses, men in America would only conThis striking woman, our first real Gitana friend, while ensuring that they didn’t and all dripping sider for their power tools. Womhad a lovely face and a body far too heavy for lose the thread of their own all-imen and men alike had glasses in her years, all covered in black. in jewels portant account. their hands, the majority waving Rosa started singing tenderly, then with inIt was the very first fiesta we were a lit cigarette around dangerouscreasing volume, until finally she was literally invited to. We hadn’t gotten to ly close to some señora’s newly yelling. Her hands were hitting the air and there know many people in Ronda yet, but one of the ironed and heavily sprayed hair. A gentleman were tears in her eyes. Her voice was different few friends we made had brought us along. I with soot-covered hands was tending to the from any singing that I had known, the tones was amazed, actually, as many expats will barbecue. Flames enveloped what looked like more eastern, so wild and unbridled. spend years in Spain hardly ever talking to loan entire side of an animal. Bread, olives, toThough I did not understand the words, her pacals and here we were, surrounded by ‘friends’ matoes swimming in oil, and charbroiled meat thos almost made me feel like crying myself.

Suddenly, the beat changed. The crowd broke into a cheery refrain that everybody seemed to know. Pilar, a statuesque woman in her sixties, stood up, put her arms in a showy, bullfighter-like stance, and started dancing what they called the Sevillana, spurred on by more clapping and crazed cheers.

I was an actress who had woken up on a foreign stage. My mind became a camera, panning away from the party, travelling along a mountain ridge where faraway olive trees were silhouetted against an electric blue late afternoon sky. The setting sun reflected golden tones onto an enormous vertical cliff ahead of us.

If I stretched my neck and looked straight up from the deep valley where we were, I could see tiny houses perched dramatically on the edge some 160 metres right above us. That was Ronda, our new hometown.

I looked back to the party, to these lively, loud, and passionate men and women. Among them were Jaime, my husband, Mexican-born and half-Spanish, perfectly blending in with the cheery mob. Would I ever feel like a local, even if I would never even remotely look like one?

Me, so utterly Scandinavian, naturally blonde and now naturally greying, predictably blue-eyed, safely colour-coordinated, stereotypically healthy and strong, and with far-too-sensible shoes. I was a square, dull and mute oddity in a world of exciting, loud, curvaceous beings.

Excerpts (right) from Casita 26 - Searching for a Slice of Andalucian Paradise by Karethe Linaae Mascot Books, Virginia, USA, 2019

FREE QUOTE info@sghaulage.com www.sghaulageltd.co.uk

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25 November 20th - December 3rd 2019

Living life on the edge

To us, Ronda was a place like no other. In particular that the Rondeños lived on a cliff. The town was constructed on either side of an extremely deep gorge, with rock formations looking like they were sketched

by Dr. Seuss himself. The scientific explanation, for those who might understand, was that it rested on a peridotite mantle diapir of something called ultramafic rocks formed in early Miocene time. In laywoman’s terms, as far as I could decipher, this meant that some 100,000 years ago what we now knew as the valley of fertile, rolling hills beneath our town was once the actual ocean floor. El Tajo, the gorge that divided the town in half, was shaped by the force of water pushing through deeper and deeper into the rather porous sandstone and limestone rock, pretty much the same way that water had shaped the Grand Canyon. Living in Ronda, therefore, meant literally living on the edge with some of the world’s most spectacular views!

PRECARIOUS: Buildings facing the gorge and snow on statue (far left)

A night walk This particular misty November night, there was barely a soul outside. I was a lone latenight walker. The houses overhanging the cliff were looking more precarious than ever, perched as they were on the edge of the steep gorge. Above them I saw stars, millions of them, a phenomenon I had forgotten existed. You never see stars and planets where we had come from, in the light-polluted cities of America.

Was this the magic that had attracted writers, painters, and artists from around the world, both past and present, to this very place where I was standing?

Where time stood still Settling in rural Andalucía was like taking a step back in time. It didn’t mean that people here lived in the past, more so that they lived with the past.

One could still see the occasional donkey in our barrio, though more often there would be horses cloppety-clopping through the streets. Labourers still stopped at the bar first thing in the morning to have a couple of straight shots of aguardiente before driving off to work. When we bought a dozen screws with Emilio at the hardware store, he would still wrap them in a piece of newspaper. To get a zipper, we lined up at the haberdashery with seven ladies before us, while the matron up front took an eternity deciding on the few centimetres of ribbon to match her doily curtains.

Plaza life moves slowly So this was our new ‘hood’ - Barrio San Francisco, or the Saint Francis neighbourhood. The sun was fully up. In the plaza, old men started filling the benches. Like comfort-seeking cats, they would follow the sun, moving along to different seating positions while watching life pass by - probably, though I couldn’t say for sure - continuing the same eternal debate about Spanish politics. The fall leaves were sailing down onto the cobblestone square, filling the central fountain on this November day. As the morning progressed, I imagined that most things around here had probably been the same for centuries, at least when it came to the seated old men and the predawn cries of the lonely donkey.

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26 November 20th - December 3rd 2019

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Carried away!

HE is currently on a world tour, having starred at the London Guitar Festival.

So it is no surprise that Paco Seco’s Ronda Guitar House is fast becoming one of the most prestigious cultural venues in Andalucia.

He and his team offer an exceptional and emotive concert in a very intimate setting.

Recognized by Lonely Planet, Rick Steves and Le Routard, this is one evening’s entertainment not to be missed on a visit to Ronda.

Run by his English wife Lucy, the team offer a fabulous cultural journey with local Ronda wines served up alongside some of the best strains of Spanish guitar.

The concerts take place at 19:00 each evening, and cost just 15€.

HE stunning mountain scenery, the windy, wellkept roads and the hundreds of dirt tracks, is it any wonder the Serrania de Ronda is the definitive cyclists’ paradise.

The region, hugging the Costa del Sol, counts on hundreds of miles of winding roads and tracks, that are perfect for both road and mountain bikers.

There are numerous circular routes to be taken, from short one-hour bimbles to whole-day, ten hour marathons.

You might also decide to take a week-long trip staying in different villages along the way, each with their own varied hotels and restaurants.

Alternatively, get off-road and you could find yourself on an ancient Roman road to Grazalema or a sharp descent towards a ruined Moorish bath. Even better, find yourself on an ancient smuggling track heading down a secret valley.

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Spin around The Serrania is the definitive place to head off on a cycling tour, writes Olive Press editor and Ronda resident Jon Clarke

Expert

I have been riding around the Serrania since I arrived here in 2002 and I reckon I know nearly 100 excellent spots to completely get away from it all.

One of my favourite mountain rides heads up out of Ronda through the gently sloping Arriate valley towards the Puerto del Monte pass near La Cimada.

Here you enter Cadiz province heading down off-road at a rate of knots for two or three kilometres into historic Setenil de las Bodegas, where after lunch or morning coffee, you head along an ancient bandits’ track, called Contrabandistas, into the charming Ronda la Vieja valley and then round the back to Ronda.

BREATHTAKING: The stunning Zahara lake and (right) approach to Ronda You could try doing tracks like this on your own, but better to use one of the various professional cycling companies that organize trips around the Serrania and further afield. One of the longest-running companies, Andalucian Cycling Experience, I know well. They have been guiding riders through Ronda’s stunning scenery for 15 years.

Husband and wife team Ashley and Claire Higgins cater for all ranges of ability from their base in the picturesque village of Montecorto. And they sort everything out from the bikes to accommodation to food.

From novices and families to budding Chris Froomes, the British expats’ expert tours will take cyclists into the heart of one of Spain’s most stunning settings.

“We have a range of road bikes for hire and we even have children’s chariots and kids’ seats so the whole family can come along,” says Ashley.

“If there are people on the coast, they can come up and join us for a day’s riding, or they can come up and spend three days to a week.”

Legendary

Their guided Day Rides are legendary and a day not to be forgotten, taking riders around both the Serrania and into the Grazalema Natural Park.

“We have loads of routes to suit your fitness and requirements,” explains Claire, whose children go to school in Ronda.

Ashley and Claire set up the business after swapping the UK ‘rat race’ for the hills of Andalucia in 2004.

They fell in love with Montecorto after two years scouring Malaga and Ronda for the perfect base.

Mountain biking along trails or road cycling will take riders through hidden gems like Zahara, Setenil and the Roman ruins of Acinipo.

Accommodation ranges from fully-furnished villas with swimming pools that sleep 4 to 6 people to comfy townhouses - perfect to relax in after a day’s riding.

“Our mini breaks, which are a 3-night minimum

stay are based out of a charming townhouse in our village of Montecorto, a more charming white village you won’t find,” adds Claire.

A fully qualified mechanic is on hand - with a van to scoop up anyone finding the going tough and 40% of bookings are from recommendations or satisfied customers returning for another holiday.

The company can also rent an extensive fleet of hybrid, road bikes and even e-bikes for those, who might need an extra push.

Visit www.andaluciancyclingexperience.com or call 952 184 042

27 November 20th - December 3rd 2019

I

T is amazing how many small family-run wineries in Ronda have popped up in the last decade.

The bodega count now stands at over 30, with many producing some of the most exciting wines around Spain these days.

A huge variety of styles and grapes are being used, including various local indiginous varieties, such as Rome, Melonera and Tinto Velasco.

The area now has its own appellation and there is a well signposted wine route, which aficionados can follow around the local valleys and villages.

Most of them can be visited, normally by appointment, and many offer tapas and a comprehensive tour of the vineyard.

A superb place to start is at the bespoke vineyard of Frederic Schatz, the German pioneer, who started the ball rolling (well second time, if you read on) in the 1980s.

Award-winning

It was then that he and his father (who had wine in his veins) started to plant various varieties of traditional grapes, including Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with an eye on producing the now award-winning wines he makes today.

He has six in total, with one Finca Sanguijuela 2011, being picked as ‘one of Spain’s finest’ at the Penin wine awards in Madrid last month.

Originally from Northern Italy, Frederic travelled around Europe until he found an estate on the way up to the historic Roman town of Acinipo.

Grape expectations Wine tourism is really on the up around Ronda with its 30-plus bodegas expanding by the year, writes Gabriella Chidgey

LOCATION, LOCATION: Chinchilla At a height of 1000 metres this settlement sits around an ancient still-intact Roman amphitheatre.

Literally named the ‘city of wine’, it was one of the very few settlements of the Roman Empire that exported wine back to Rome.

The town even had its own coinage, appropriately with vine tendrils on one side.

The neighboring village Setenil de las Bodegas handily provided its famous caves as cellars.

During the first few years in Ronda, Frederic supported his organic and biodynamic vineyard by growing and selling flowers.

In addition to being organic his estate is carbon-neutral and he can explain the changes and

growth of the Ronda wine industry better than anyone.

Another magnificent place to visit, one constantly evolving and growing, is Chinchilla.

Based out of Bodega Dona Felisa, in one of the most privileged spots in the whole of Andalucia, it is well set up for wine tours, and astings.

The family behind the wine have been constantly evolving for well over a decade and, apart from planning a new apart-hotel, are also set to open a brand new vineyard, which will be one of Ronda’s largest at 25 hectares.

Another stunning spot a bit further up the road is the Ramos-Paul winery Bodega El Chantre, which has majestic views across two provinces.

Pilar and Jose Ramos-Paul continue the tradition honed by the Romans, Phoenicians and Moors but have created their own caves deep within the hillside to store their bottles following the wine’s two years in French oak barrels.

Do arrange a private visit and tasting of their red wine, if you are interested in buying a few bottles.

Another fascinating place is bodega Vetas, comprising only one hectare in Arriate, the smallest vineyard in the Serrania de Ronda, but perhaps with the greatest reputation.

A pioneer of Ronda wines and an esteemed winemaker at local vineyards, since the 1990s, Juan Manuel Vetas’ Petit Verdot

is very highly sought after and also very hard to find outside the region since the production is so small.

Another good place is Los Aguilares, with wine expert Janice Robinson describing its Pinot Noir as her ‘find of the London wine fair’ three years ago.

Also look out for the excellent value Bodegas Viloria. A large family affair, this farm turned vineyard produces a number of red wines, but its white Lagarejo Blanco is the best; a perfect light, summer tipple and inexpensive to boot.

Lastly, don’t miss La Melonera, which has planted a few lines of grapes of this variety.

The Grand Tour once includ-

TRAILBLAZER: Federico ed Ronda so the winery chose to name its white and red, La Encina del Ingles. Or perhaps they understand modern British drinking tastes.

Probably not, since the more expensive Payoyo Negra celebrates the local goat.

28 November 20th - December 3rd 2019

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WHERE TO EAT

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MELTING POT

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Traditional dishes of Ronda

There are mountains of great restaurants in Ronda, writes Dining Secrets of Andalucia editor Jon Clarke

E’S cooked for Gareth Bale and Cristiano Ronaldo over the last year and trained at two famous Michelin starred restaurants, run by Martin Berasategui.

But it was at Ronda’s legendary Tragabuches restaurant - working with the likes of Dani Garcia - that Martin Abramzon really fell in love with the mountain town.

As well as finding some of Spain’s best ingredients locally, he also found a wife, so it was only natural that the Argentinian chef would finally open his own restaurant in the town.

But don’t expect to find it easily. And that FRIENDLY: At Cerveceria Bandolero is all part of the plan.

For his new joint Kutral (www. In a huge industrial unit, it is restaurantekutral.com) sits in a the most spacious restaurant super-cool spot on the edge of in town, by far. It may also have Ronda’s industrial estate. some of the best food.

NEW BREW: Martin Abramzon at Kutral While focusing on great cuts of the town’s grandest restaurant meat cooked on an open paril- Pedro Romero (www.rpedrola-style Argentinian bbq, there is romero.com) sitting opposite a lot more besides, with a burra- the bullring, with wonderful bullta salad with dry tomatoes a top fighting photos and posters, as pick and the lemyou might expect. on curd pudding Run by brotha total winner. ers Carlos and He trained at It is just the latest Tomas, a top the cathedral in a long line of sommelier, you excellent places should try the of food, to eat in the Serfantastic rabo de rania de Ronda.

Akelarre, in San toro and let him Whether you select the wine.

Sebastian are after tasty A total contrast is tapas, simple inEl Almacen, run gredients or Miby talented Javichelin-starred mastery, care of er Pimentel, a local Ronda lad, Benito Gomez at Bardal, there who went around the world and is so much on offer. back before opening his restauFor history lovers take a ride to rant two years ago.

It’s a stylish spot, with a great selection of music, including a huge pile of records... but you are here for the food and Javier doesn’t disappoint, having trained for a year at San Sebastian’s three-Michelin cathedral of cuisine Akelarre, before a stint in Ireland and two years in London.

Soulful Almocabar has been consistently one of the town’s finest places to eat for over a decade, with a superb wine list and atmosphere personified, particularly if eating in the square outdoors at summer time.

In the same square in Barrio San Francisco is an exciting new addition, Cerveceria Bandolero, which really could be the friendliest place to eat in Andalucia.

It’s very much service with a smile from these two cousins, who run backwards and forwards charming guests and

SOUL FOOD: Monolo at Almocobar and

29 November 20th - December 3rd 2019

RONDA ALL STARS: Javier at El Almacen, Benito at Bardal, Javier at Porton and Tomas and Carlos at Pedro Romero

AUTHENTICITY: Is order of the day at Porton and (right) El Muelle de Arriate, where the menu is always fresh and original plying you with excellent simple and local fare, with a bent towards Carnes a la Brasa.

For wine lovers you mustn’t miss Entre Vinos, which has over 100 wines from Ronda, and always has a dozen wines available by the glass. There are some excellent tapas and it is a charming place to while away a few hours.

Just up the hill a little is Siempre Igual, which is exactly that ‘Always the same’, and a bloody excellent place to enjoy tapas and some excellent wine with

(above) team at Siempre Igual

friends. Run by a friendly family team (below left), they always have some experimental new dishes, worth a try and you are in a great location, just up from the bullring.

For those up in the heart of Ronda authentic Porton – an institution run by Javier for the last 40 years - has wonderful old photos on the wall and a guaranteed feel good factor. Here, you will find my favourite Ronda tapa, the wonderful quails egg with ham on toast.

Venturing out of Ronda there are so many amazing country escapes for lunch or supper.

My favourites are Molino del Santo, in charming Benaojan, now shut for the winter, as well as El Muelle, in Arriate, which boasts hundreds of regulars who drive all the way from the coast - and even Sevilla - for lunch.

It’s no surprise, this old railway storeroom being extremely atmospheric and boasting excellent local authentic fare to boot.

Run by friendly Dutchman Frank Rottgering, alongside talented local chef Isa, there are plenty of new dishes each month and

SELECTION: One of the best wine lists is at Entre Vinos the menu is full of their colourful creations.

The wine list is simple but inspired and the food is always amazing fresh and beautifully served…

Even better are the prices.

It would be unfair not to mention chef Ian Love at La Cascada, at hotel Molino del Puente (www.hotelmolinodelpuente.com).

He and his wife have been pleasing the punters with their tasty

creations for well over a decade now and its amazing riverside terrace cannot be beaten in good weather.

For great coffee and the best place to watch the footie and grab a snack Buenos Aires in the heart of Ronda’s Calle la Bola cannot be beaten. www.diningsecretsofandalucia.com

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WHERE TO STAY

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Ronda has many romantic and hip places to stay, plenty in the nearby countryside AUTHENTIC: Ronda Romantica is getting great reviews

Dream in City of Dreams

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HERE are many magical places to stay in the ‘City of Dreams’, as Dutch poet Rilke once dubbed Ronda.

IDYLLIC: Arriadh Hotel (top) and El Anon

But with over 1000 places to stay in the city and nearby area, getting it right is anything but easy for a first timer.

Just outside Ronda you should ensure to check out Hotel Arriadh (www.arriadhhotel.com), which counts on some of the best views anywhere in Spain.

Often described as ‘zen-like’, the clean lines and maximising of light and landscape is all thanks to the talents of Dutch couple John and Wilfred.

Excellent value, it has an amazingly peaceful garden and a splendid infinity pool and can also offer meals if required.

On the other side of the valley look out for charming converted mill Molino del Puente (www. hotelmolinodelpuente.com).

This is a fabulous restaurant with rooms, thanks to chef Ian Love, who has been producing superb food for decades.

Alongside his wife Elaine Love, this historic spot is very popular with visitors from the coast and, best of all, is well connected, while being very peaceful.

In Ronda itself, a great budget offering is Hotel Morales (www. hotelmorales.es), which sits in the heart of the town, perfect for the shops, and the main transport links.

More luxurious is Reina Victoria, run by the Catalonia group (www.hoteles-catalonia.com) Which was built over 100 years ago by British builders when the train line first arrived here from the coast.

Standing in an enviable spot overlooking the gorge it’s a good place to luxuriate and enjoy the amazing views.

One excellent, brand new option, just opened is Ronda Romantica apart-hotel (visit www.alcantarilla.co.uk) which comprises

five tastefully-converted apartments in a charming barrio just on the edge of the old town (see side bar).

For complete authenticity and to sample a taste of the idyllic mountain life, consider spending a few days at Finca Alcantarilla (www.alcantarilla.co.uk) a wonderful B&B, just ten minutes out of Ronda.

Another fabulous place to stay at the western end of the Serrania in Jimena is Hostal Anon (www. hostalanon.com).

It’s been a classic stopover for travelers for nearly four decades and the rooms have a Spanish rustic feel, while the outside intertwining terraces have a Moorish décor.

Owner Suzanne has lived in Andalucia for over 40 years and the place often comes alive on weekend nights with a very liberal fun feel.

Calling all romantics!

You can really feel the weight of history at Ronda Romantica apartments.

The most exciting new place to stay in Ronda this year was once the historic home of Pedro Romero, who constructed the town’s stunning bullring.

Beautifully converted by local building firm Ari Contratas, it counts on many of its original features including vaulted ceilings, ancient doors and rejas, while also being the very definition of luxury.

“It was a delight to work with such a charming historic building and to have converted it to a high standard of luxury,” said boss of Ari Vicente Compas.

And, as a special offer for Olive Press readers this winter, anyone booking to stay at Ronda Romantica for two nights, can have a third night completely FREE. Contact gabschidgey@gmail.com or call 654152122 to reserve your stay.