FOOD & DRINK
The menu is identical for lunch and dinner, but Earl’s also offers a few rotating nightly specials. Wednesday is steak night; Saturday is a shrimpboil. Those specials can be a little more economical. On a recent visit, the Tuesday taco special ($12) featured two generously stuffed chicken tinga tacos on nicely browned Yoli flour tortillas, with plenty of garlic crema, cabbage, and fresh-pineapple-and-cilantro salsa. The pricing at Earl’s isn’t unusual for the neighborhood or cuisine, but a couple of the dishes don’t yet live up to the price tag. For $18, you want a cheeseburger to be incredible. Right now, it’s incredibly promising. On composition alone, the burger was near-perfect—a thick patty with the textbook ratio of shredded lettuce to pickles to cheese hat to bun. But it was ordered medium and arrived well done, and the beef wasn’t as fatty as I’d hoped for. The EP Chicken ($26) was also slightly overcooked, drying out the breast meat of the brined Red Bird Farms bird. Unsurprisingly, this made it difficult to cut with a butter knife (my chicken was not served with any other cutlery). Still, I’d give the kitchen some grace and order it again—the skin was crisp, bronzed, and stippled with peri peri seasoning, lending the meat a blush of heat and a barely perceptible sweetness. Schulte developed the desserts at Earl’s as well, and they’re worth ordering. The best pick right now is the “Atlantic Beach Pie in a jar” ($10), which layers a crisp saltine cracker crust with a sunny lemon custard and a thick head of whipped cream. But the silky vanilla soft serve ($5) is another fun and fine way to end a meal. Service across all three of my visits was casual and personable. Food and cocktails came out at a brisk pace, but no one appeared rushed or overwhelmed; the servers and shuckbois always seemed to find time to chat with the drinkers and diners. For that reason, the bar seats at Earl’s are the best in the house. “I’m still learning,” the shucker told a couple seated next to me at the bar one night. But he seemed delighted to share what he already knows. As a restaurant, Earl’s is still learning and evolving, too. Despite the oldschool feel, the restaurant has only been in Brookside for three months, not 30 years. As of this writing, the restaurant is closed on Sundays, but Dannehl and Schulte plan to add a Sunday rosé brunch. They’re working on closing up the roof on the patio, too, to make access less weather-dependent (and to open up a few more tables for reservations). For now, Earl’s is already a premier place for fresh oysters, great drinks, unstuffy service, and immaculate vibes. It ain’t perfect. But it might be perfect for the neighborhood.
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The Sicilian at Jovito’s Italian Café & Deli
BY JORDAN BARANOWSKI Jovito’s Italian Café & Deli 7408 Wornall Road Kansas City, MO 64114
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Overlooking this little spot in Waldo would be a big mistake. Jovito’s Italian Café & Deli boasts an impressive selection of Italian deli favorites including Italian beef Photo by Jordan Baranowski sandwiches, Muffalini paninis, Chicago-style hot dogs, and more. For your money, nothing on their menu can top the Sicilian sandwich. The Sicilian is simplicity done to absolute perfection. It starts with an Italian breaded steak, pan-fried to a deep golden brown. The steak is the perfect thickness so it stays nice and tender, and the breading is crisp, crunchy, and full of punch from the seasoning. It’s topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, and provolone—all served on a fresh Italian roll. After one bite, you’ll struggle to set it down before the entire thing is gone. Pro tip: Don’t forget about the pickle. The small hit of acid is key to fully enjoying this beast of a sandwich. Jovito’s wraps it in foil and places it under the paper in the takeout container with any sandwich you order. Finish with a cannoli or tiramisu for a well-rounded meal.
The DILLIGAF
at 9th and State BY KALA ELKINTON 9th and State 1717 W. 9th Street Kansas City, MO 64101
On the quieter side of the West Bottoms, cocktail lovers can find a memorable take on the traditional pisco sour at 9th and State. But it wasn’t always calm in this corner of the city. The century-old building was once part of “the wettest block in the world.” Since prohibition, the building itself has been home to several busi- Photo by Kala Elkinton nesses and just reopened a year ago to serve up 9th and State’s artful cocktails, wine, and beer with a side of ping-pong and the occasional live show. The pisco sour, lovingly called The DILLIGAF, is an innovation on the classic mix of pisco brandy and lime juice. Unlike the traditional recipe, it uses cascara’s fruity sweetness and raspberry to balance the acidity of the lime. Cascara is derived from the coffee plant but gives off a dried fruit profile when brewed. Flipped with a frothy egg white, this cocktail is a delightful summer refresher. The DILLIGAF is part of the “Cocktails for Good” menu, with 10% of drink sales supporting the Huntington’s Disease Society of America, so you can feel good about ordering a round, or two. THE PITCH | August 2022 | THEPITCHKC.COM
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