PUBLICATION LICENSED BY DUBAI PRODUCTION CITY, DCCA
EDITION 51
LOCAL SUPPLIERS
//
LATEST IN DINING EXPERIENCES
//
CHEF’S SPECIALS
GET YOURSELVES
TABLE READY new ranges coming SOON...
Churchill’s latest launch is a creative exploration of colour, shape and texture.
Churchill continues to challenge the conventions of professional tableware, through sustained commitment to design innovation and technical assurance. 1765 The Store is proud to bring you Churchill’s brand new concept, plus additions to their bestselling collections.
@1765thestore 04 388 4773 | info@1765gemini.com | www.1765gemini.com
EDITOR'S NOTE
Welcome EDITORIAL EDITOR: Nicola Monteath nicola.monteath@cpimediagroup.com ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER: Liz Smyth liz.smyth@cpimediagroup.com BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER: Diarmuid O'Malley diarmuid.omalley@cpimediagroup.com prochef.sales@cpimediagroup.com DESIGN Froilan A. Cosgafa IV FOR OTHER ENQUIRIES, PLEASE VISIT: www.theprochefme.com FOUNDER CPI MEDIA GROUP Dominic De Sousa (1959-2015)
What an intense year 2020 has been! While the hospitality industry has taken an unbelievable hit due to the pandemic, we’re glad to see restaurateurs innovating new concepts, chefs thinking outside the box, and hotspots opening in the city, especially during the last quarter of this year. In this issue, we speak to Chef Antonio Probst of Asador de Aranda and Chef Ahmad from Samakjé Restaurant & Lounge, both from newly opened restaurants in the city. Each bring forth a dining experience that’s fun and memorable! We’re continuing to support local suppliers and producers as much as possible. Discover the UAE’s latest vertical hydroponics farm (page 31), a retail platform that connects people to farmers and places a great emphasis on composting (page 32), and a delish artisan ice cream that’s making waves in the UAE (page 35). Looking to try new recipes? Plant-based dishes from Seva (page 42) and signature specials from Brasserie Boulud (page 45) are sure to satisfy every palate.
Nicola Monteath Editor PRINTED BY Al Salam Printing Press LLC PUBLISHED BY
Head Office: Media City, Building 4, Office G-08 Dubai, United Arab Emirates, PO Box 13700 Tel: +971 4 440 9100 Fax: +971 4 447 2409 Email: info@cpimediagroup.com A publication licensed by Dubai Production City, DCCA
© Copyright 2020 CPI Media Group FZ LLC. All rights reserved. While the publishers have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information in this magazine, they will not be held responsible for any errors therein. www.cpimediagroup.com
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
1
32 CONTENTS 5 NEWS BITES
Culinary news from the Middle East and beyond. Discover delivery platforms, new tech and plenty more.
8 DINING OUT IN THE CITY
Ready to head out for a meal? Here’s a roundup of restaurants to visit.
14
CHEF’S SPECIALS
17
THE WAY FORWARD
19
THE FISH EXPERT
We follow the latest creations on menus across the country.
A closer look at the future of the culinary industry and what diners can now expect
17 2
The Pro Chef Middle East / Edition 51
Chef Ahmad talks us through the newlyopened Samakje Restaurant and Lounge.
THE PRO CHEF MIDDLE EAST
27
36
19 27
FROM CASTILE AND LEÓN TO DUBAI
An interview with Antonio Probst of Asador de Aranda. Meat-lovers will enjoy this new hotspot in Downtown Dubai.
32 THE COMPOSTING CULTURE
Big Farm Brothers explain why chefs and restaurants should look into composting food waste to increase profits.
36 TIME AFTER TIME
Time Out Market's CEO Didier Souillat dishes out on the highly-anticipated venture at Souk Al Bahar.
42
38 THE CREAM CHALLENGE
Up-and-coming chefs and food influencers gathered at ICCA Dubai for a day in the kitchen with The French Dairy Board. Take a look at the discussion we had on pastry trends.
42 PLANT POWER
These nutritious dishes from Chef Kiki at SEVA are ideal for a light lunch or postworkout meal.
45
ROOTED IN TRADITION
Chef Nicolas Lemoyne, Chef De Cuisine at Brasserie Boulud shares two absolutely delish recipes to try.
45 Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
3
europeanrice
rice_eu
News bites Culinary news from the Middle East and beyond
Mohammed Shamaa / Shutterstock.com
Orzu Hospitality Group launches in the UAE Headed by industry pioneer Mirzo Hafizovis, Orzu Hospitality Group will be launching three scheduled venues at The Pointe, Palm Jumeirah, set to open by Q1 next year. The new additions include Bramble; a cocktail lounge and ZOR, an Uzbek restaurant fashioned in a manner which embodies the spectacular dining traditions of the Central Asian country. The menu serves dishes passed down through the generations, focusing on succulent grilled meats and plov (a rice dish) among other traditional Uzbek specialities. AKA will be Orzu’s third launch, an exclusive late-night lounge designed around the glamour and impulse of 1980s Tokyo.
Save the date:
Photographs SUPPLIED
TUTTOFOOD Milano 2021 Hosted at Fiera Milano, the most technologically and logistically advanced exhibition centre in Europe, TUTTOFOOD supports the meeting of supply and demand. In 2021, visitors will see an area dedicated to innovation in fresh fruit and vegetables and in the IV and V ranges. The 2021 edition will also focus on the organic development of the latest sectors launched –TUTTODIGITAL and TUTTOHEALTH – as well as on consolidating more traditional sectors. Moreover, TUTTOFOOD 2021 will be complemented by MEAT-TECH, the IPACK-IMA exhibition dedicated to processing and packaging solutions for meat, meat products and the ready meal industry. Furthermore, there will also be an increasingly effective knowledge sharing platform, thanks to an unparalleled programme of events. The Innovation Area will present the new innovation contest, and in addition to all this, a digital
map of the exhibition will allow visits from remote locations, as well as direct, real-time negotiations, and multiple touchpoints based on new technologies (IoT, Data Analytics, Cloud, Mobile App). Visit tuttofood.it/en
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
5
UP FRON T / N EW S B I T ES
Touch-free digital entertainment platform now available to hotels MediaPad, Touch-free Digital Entertainment Platform by Gold Key Media offers access to the world’s leading newspapers and magazines. In line with COVID protocols recommending a reduction of touchpoints at hotels, this touch-free solution offers a great solution without disrupting the experience. Guests can get instant access to the latest local, regional and international newspapers and magazines in 25 languages, e-books, games, audio, and video content. The perfect solution for hotels to also display their COVID guidelines, restaurant and room service menus, spa brochures, local attractions, and various hotel promotions, completely contactless. The platform is also compatible with the Arabic language. It’s also fully customizable and access to the platform is via a QR code or URL with no passwords required. The brand is now an essential part of the guest experience at hotels such as Claridges, The Ritz, Gleneagles, The Berkeley, The Dorchester, The Corinthia and Marriott Grosvenor Square.
Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group bans plastic In the hopes of eliminating all singleuse plastic across their portfolio of 33 luxury hotels, Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group is en route of meeting their target by the end of March 2021. Complete ban of items such as cocktail sticks, straws, body scrubs, tasting spoons,
6
The Pro Chef Middle East / Edition 51
plastic spatulas and takeaway bags have succeeded. The most commonly used items are plastic water bottles, which have now been substituted by on-site filtered and bottled water at a dozen hotels. Across the properties, glass and aluminium bottled water will be the benchmark throughout
the portfolio. So far, 70% of the 60 most common single-use plastic items have been replaced. Furthermore, in keeping with hotel safety measures, the brands’ “We Care” packages for hotel guests now include plastic-free reusable fabric facemasks.
ORDER IN The latest in meal delivery services Food Nation Go delivers nutritious restaurant-standard ready meals to your door. Created by award-winning UK Chef Magnus Mumby, the meals are nonprocessed, additive-free, naturally low in sugar and saturated fats, and made from quality-sourced ingredients. The menu even includes gluten-free, kids and vegetarian options. Kickstart your day with burritos, the Five-a-day pot, or The Golden Ticket starring carrot, banana, orange, pineapple and mango with a kick of ginger and turmeric. For lunch, try the skinny shawarma box, the falafel and hummus wrap, or the vegetable tom yum soup, to name a few, and come dinnertime, tuck into lasagne, traditional cottage pie or lighter options including cauliflower katsu and noodle, or salmon tartare fishcakes. The kids ‘Easy Eats’ range features dishes with hidden veggies such as carrot and corn fritters, and pumpkin, black beans and feta enchiladas, amongst others. The app is available on Google Play and App store.
The Oven Market (TOM), a Dubaibased app, connects customers with some of UAE’s best at-home chefs. When you’re interested in trying something different, or too fatigued to cook, open the app to search through a diverse network of local chefs and menus, and order their homemade meals with just the click of a button. Along with the promise of providing an inclusive gourmet-like experience, the reliable delivery service aims to have the meal at your doorstep in less than 60 minutes. Taking every precaution necessary, the network of chefs and kitchens are vetted daily, certifying that all the kitchen appliances, hygienic methods and food-handling meet the safety UAE municipality policies. Looking to cook from home as a chef? Register at theovenmarket.com.
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
7
UP FRON T / N EW S
Flavours of the month Take a look at the latest hotspots in town, brunch offerings and spots you just can't miss for a memorable meal
1484 by Puro Sited at the top of the Jais Adventure Peak is the UAE’s highest restaurant, named for its height of 1,484 metres above sea level. 1484 by Puro offers magnificent views of the peaks and valleys of the Hajar mountains alongside a menu brimming with locally sourced ingredients. The restaurant is the latest venture by PURO and offers eggs benedict and traditional shakshouka for breakfast; wasabi shrimp, Korean fried chicken, fish and chips, braised beef ribs and more for lunch. The decadent sticky date pudding is a nod to the delights of the Arabian Gulf alongside classics such as tiramisu and s’mores pancake topped with marshmallow cream and maple syrup. Contact +9717 244 5018.
Luxury florist boutique Forever Rose has opened the region's first 3D café. Located at Boxpark, it will transmit the feeling of a floral boutique environment, with 3D illustrations to evoke emotions of being part of a story. The black and white theme (including dishware) is a nod to the current colour scheme of the Forever Rose floral boutiques. The menu is just as gorgeous featuring signature French toast of rose extracts, international cuisine with a Middle Eastern twist and seasonal dishes. Contact +9714 548 4210. 8
The Pro Chef Middle East / Edition 51
Photographs SUPPLIED
Forever Rose
The Pangolin by Sergio Lopez
Punjab Grill
The brainchild of renowned restaurateur Sergio Lopez and Australian cook Troy Payne, The Pangolin sprawls across two floors and includes a private dining room, a member’s room, and a terrace. The menu, devised by Troy Payne who believes in championing local farming, is inspired by family feasting and traditional cooking methods. Apart from the extensive range of cured meats and cheeses, the offerings include breakfast dishes such as fresh hot smoked salmon with pull-apart bread soldiers, and crumpets with poached eggs and wilted greens. For a substantial meal, try the smoked beef rib, and Biltongaise and avocado mousse with pink peppered rucola. Soups, salads and sandwiches will be also available to order from lunchtime.
Overlooking the stunning Grand Canal at the Venetian Village in Ritz Carlton, Punjab Grill recently reopened its doors with a spacious outdoor terrace. New additions to the menu include the palak patta chaat (crispy batterfried spinach leaves, topped with tangy tamarind chutney and spicy mint chutney) for appetisers. A must-try for mains is the raw banana kofta made from steamed plantain in pungent gravy with whole spices and paste of fresh, green coriander. Colocasia or taro is showcased in the arvi kofta, (crumbed taro with crushed roasted vermicelli draped in a golden leaf, served with peanut and tamarind gravy). The Kolkata coconut prawns come in highly recommended, as does the chaamp taajdar (an Indian interpretation of western Australian Lamb, marinated in spices and labneh, grilled in the tandoor).
Contact +97154 4438 288.
Make a reservation via WhatsApp +971 50 668 3054.
Brasserie du Park, Park Hyatt Dubai
Bolla DIFC
The award-winning Traiteur Brunch is back to make your Friday afternoons all the more fun. The relaxed waterfront terrace overlooking the Dubai Creek and skyline is the perfect escape for the finest of French and Mediterranean cuisine. Enjoy premium sliced meat, charcuterie and terrines as well as an extensive selection of cheeses, unlimited lobster, shrimp, salmon and caviar from the seafood buffet, and plenty more.
Located at the heart of the financial district is this bistro-style bar and restaurant that serves fresh, hearty meals in a casual environment. The menu features quick and healthy breakfasts, dishes with an international flair, cheese boards and sumptuous bites, designed to complement their extensive beverage selection. The all-day evolving menu reflects the diversity of world grape regions and is the perfect spot for after-work catchups. The eatery is currently hosting a special promotion every day of the week, offering steak and fries, paella, oyster platters, roast and more.
Friday, from 1-4:30pm. From AED 495-895 per person. Contact +9714 602 1814.
Contact +9714 340 0046.
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
9
Glo, Rosewood Abu Dhabi The latest addition to the capital’s culinary scene is the dining experience, ‘Wood & Fire’ at Glo, Rosewood Abu Dhabi. Known for its open-air setting and offering captivating views of Abu Dhabi’s skyline, Wood & Fire is led by Chef Jaka using the classic cooking method of firewood, as well as American and Komodo pressure grills. The menu features highlights such as the Jimbaran-style red snapper, lamb rump, short ribs, lobster, oysters, and the 12-hour smoked beef brisket. Contact +9712 813 5550.
BBQ Al Qasr, Emirates Palace, Abu Dhabi The idyllic beachside eatery has opened its doors just in time for winter. Dine al fresco and whet your appetite with dishes from the newly launched menu including seafood and grills. Contact +9712 690 88 88.
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
11
Rise to the top with French Cream In pastry and other branches of the culinary arts, there is no denying that cream is an essential ingredient. As a cooking element, it adds an incredible depth of flavor. European dairy cream, especially French cream, enhances the flavor of all preparations. It has an unparalleled melt in the mouth, and its softness on the palate is uniquely smoothing and comforting. No matter the level of the cooking skills, anyone can incorporate French cream to a range of dishes, from savoury to sweet.
Nina MĂŠtayer is a French Chef awarded twice as best pastry chef in 2016 and 2017. For her dessert, she put together a fruit-forward dish and whipped up a creamy grapefruit meringue, then completed the plate with vanilla tonka chantilly.
Creamy, tangy grapefruit meringue
ALMOND SOUFFLÉ MERINGUE 500g Egg whites
250g Almond powder
250g Confectioner’s sugar
500g Caster sugar
Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites into peaks with the caster sugar and add the sifted powders. Form pretty, smooth balls with the mixture and bake them on a baking sheet for 30 min at 160° C then dry them at 100° C. Let them cool then scratch them with a dremel.
GRAPEFRUIT AND VANILLA SORBET 630g Water
210g Sugar
1470g Grapefruit juice
108g Glucose spray
5 Vanilla pods
12g Stabilizer
Heat the water to 50° C. Add the mix of sugar, glucose spray, and stabilizer. Add the vanilla and bring to a boil. Let it cool, then mix with the grapefruit juice. Let this mixture rest for 12 hours then use an ice cream machine to create the sorbet.
GRAPEFRUIT JELLY 2100g Grapefruit juice / 200g Prepared gelatin / 3 Vanilla pods
Heat the grapefruit juice and mix in the gelatin. Spread onto a greased pan and let it set in the refrigerator for 2 hours before slicing.
TONKA VANILLA WHIPPED CREAM 5L Liquid cream
1 Tonka bean
1kg Mascarpone
3g Vanilla pod
210g Confectioner’s sugar
Grate the tonka bean and mix it with liquid cream. Let it infuse, cold, for 3 hours then strain. Combine with the sugar and mascarpone and whip it with the electric mixer.
CANDIED GRAPEFRUIT ZEST 5 Grapefruits / 500g Grapefruit juice / 500g Caster sugar
Remove the peel from the grapefruit making sure to discard all of the pith. Slice the zest into a thin julienne, blanch three times, then simmer in the syrup for around 15 min.
ASSEMBLY 30 pieces Grapefruit
Dried grapefruit zest to taste
200g Marzipan
Dried vanilla powders to taste
Use a cookie cutter to cut the grapefruit jelly into circles and place them in the center of the plate. Place a dab of marzipan on top. Stick on the meringue shell. Garnish with grapefruit sorbet. Arrange a few fresh grapefruit slices. Use a 12mm wide plain tip pastry bag to create a pretty swirl of tonka whipped cream. Decorate with dried, candied zests, fresh grapefruit segments, and dried vanilla powder... Edition 46 / The Pro Chef Middle East
The content of this advertorial represents the author’s point of view only and is the sole responsibility of the author. The European Commission is not responsible for any use that may be made from the information contained herein.
CH E FS / PLATE UP
ON MENUS ES CURRENTLY THE BEST DISH I – AS S ACROSS DUBA AT RESTAURANT LV S THEMSE ES CHOSEN BY CHEF
CHEF NAIMA
TAGINE RESTAURANT, ONE&ONLY ROYAL MIRAGE
What is your favourite dish on the menu? Definitely the traditional Moroccan couscous
Tell us about the dish.
What makes it a standout dish? The right couscous will complement and enhance any dish it is served with, but the best way to enjoy it is with lamb. It is the most popular dish served at our restaurant, especially ordered often by the large number of Moroccans who dine with us each evening. They really appreciate the traditional experience we provide with a range of authentic dishes, combined with the ambience and live entertainment from musicians I love to integrate sweet and sour ingredients with Moroccan spices, to enhance flavours of the couscous in the dishes it is served with. Moroccan cuisine has recently adopted new techniques by adding a sweet touch with the use of pears, caramelised apples and figs. While I have also incorporated this with the use of pineapple, I still prefer the more authentic approach using prunes, apricots, and raisins to subtlety combine a variety of mouthwatering flavours.
Where do you source the ingredients from? I use authentic Moroccan ingredients across all my dishes and ensure everything is sourced directly from there.
Photography SUPPLIED
Couscous is the most traditional food item served in any Moroccan household. It is a must-have every Friday when family members and friends gather for a sharing experience. As
I did, it is also the first dish a Moroccan woman would learn to make from her mother, which is why I am very passionate about its perfection. I also feel that anyone can make a tagine, but there is an art to perfecting couscous which I pride myself in doing by steaming the semolina three times with the finest olive oil.
14
The Pro Chef Middle East / Edition 51
DISHANTHA VARUNA THE LIGHTHOUSE, D3
SAGAR KUMAR JOSHI VIBE UAE
What is your favourite dish on the menu? There are so many dishes which are close to my heart but if I need to choose one then it’s going to be G.O.A.T. Salad.
Tell us about the dish It’s served as a warm salad and has a completely different texture to any other salad. The filo is crispy and creamy and the base of the salad is smooth, coconut-and beans-based, with a signature touch of the pink goat cheese tuile. I made this dish as a fusion of Indian coastal and western cuisine. I’m a big fan of crispy pastries and coastal dishes, so for this dish, I merged them both. The mustard seeds, curry leaves and coconut found in coastal cuisines combine with the crispy puff pastry and filo’s in western cuisine. It very quickly turned into one of my most delicious vegetarian dishes.
What makes it a standout dish? As I belong to a vibrant and colourful theme-based restaurant, I tried to put different colours on a plate that makes the dish stand out, like white coconut, green beans, pink goat cheese and brownish hot filo.
Where do you source the ingredients from? We source all our ingredients from premium vendors for both organic and the healthiest grade. However, for me, these are trade secrets. There are so many criteria to be wary of in terms of sourcing produce that is additive, homogeneous and pathogen-free. We spend a lot of time researching and testing to make sure that what we source are not just healthy ingredients, but rich in flavour and ethically produced too.
What is your favourite dish on the menu? Tough to choose just one, but if I have to, it’s the truffle rigatoni.
Tell us about the dish It’s full of truffle’s umami flavour and powerful aromas. The creaminess is so delicious, and the crispy shallot rings adds some crunchy texture.
What makes it a standout dish? We use fresh truffles from Alba in Italy, the home of truffles, and that makes such a difference to the final execution.
Where do you source The Lighthouse’s ingredients from? We try to source a lot of our fruit and vegetables locally, and other key ingredients from all over the world, such as the burrata from Italy and honey and feta cheese from Greece. Everything is made in-house from scratch including bread, jams, cream, chocolate and ice-cream.
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
15
TASTES looks feels_like
WHO WILL BECOME THE NEXT WORLD CHOCOLATE MASTER OF #TMRW? middle east - regional selection 1st September, 2021 chocolate academy center, dubai
www.worldchocolatemasters.com 16
The Pro Chef Middle East / Edition 50
C H E FS / FACE TO FACE
THE WAY FORWARD Amazónico’s Chef Diego Vargas discusses the current climate and ways in which restaurants can pivot
D
o you think private dining experiences/chef’s tables are on the rise?
People are looking for new ways to make the most of their free time and socialize while maintaining a level of safety. A private dining experience gives you the chance to not only dine out and reconnect with friends but to take a guided journey of the menu with the chef. Diners can learn something new about the history of the cuisine and the traditional methods and ingredients which have been used to create the dishes. So yes, these special experiences are on the rise.
How can restaurants thrive in this economy? It's very important to be adaptable, find ways to maximize the level of safety while still offering an enjoyable environment for those dining out. A private dining experience is an additional opportunity to engage with customers in a more intimate yet safe setting.
Does the restaurant offer any special dining experience? We don’t offer a Chef’s table experience, but this is something that we can create on a special request. Those looking for an intimate dinner can book the private dining room which hosts up to 12 people. The design stems inspiration from the hanging canapes of the rainforest. A long, solid oak dining table is surrounded by lush green walls and ceiling, while huge windows overlook the rooftop terrace and Emirates Towers.
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
17
ADVERTISING FEATURE
A SUCCESSFUL JOURNEY
SAID Dal 1923 is deeply rooted in culture and tradition that spans decades. Explore the origins of this renowned chocolatier
S
AID dal 1923 is one of the oldest chocolate factories in Rome, founded in 1923 by Aldo De Mauro, who has been producing chocolate together with a Swiss factory under the name of “Zurich”. Due to fascist pressure and obvious association with powers outside of Italy, he was forced to change the name to “S.A.I.D - Società Anonima Industria Dolciumi”. In 1943, during the bombing of Rome, the factory was destroyed, and Aldo De Mauro lost all that was dear to him, including his business. He found the strength to restart his family’s legacy, despite his tragic loss and reopened the business in its current location today, San Lorenzo. Here S.A.I.D started its second life. Ever since S.A.I.D has remained as a family business. Fabrizio De Mauro, an architect, is currently the third-generation owner of the chocolate factory. He transformed the factory into a multifunctional space and created a chocolate concept store in 2006. It maintains the charm of the ancient structure where his grandfather produced chocolate and candy, and restored this old local chocolate factory and confectionery store into a charming tea room, chocolate shop, pastry shop and a restaurant, with a traditional Italian kitchen incorporating chocolate into dishes, which makes SAID dal 1923 standout. In 2013, Fabrizio De Mauro opened a shop in the British capital, a slimmer format than the parent company. The London branch was the first to open outside of Rome and is located at Broadwick Street in the heart of Soho. All the chocolates are produced in the factory, in Rome, and transported to London. In a short time, SAID dal 1923 became well-known as the best place for chocolate. Outside the small store in London, it was very normal to witness long queues as visitors were keen to experience this concept from Rome. Due to the size of the store, the menu is limited to hot drinks, including the famous hot chocolate and delicious cakes and pastry. In 2020, SAID opened its doors for the first time in the Middle East. The largest and most decadent store yet is sited at the heart of
Dubai in City Walk. As the largest store in the portfolio, the Dubai store has all the bestsellers available at its international outlets, including the chocolates and hot chocolate from the factory in Rome and the famous SAID Chocolate cake covered in triple chocolate, as well as exclusive additions. The menu includes a range of breakfast items, French toast, antipasti, pizzas, pasta and an array of desserts including freshly baked pastries, babka and cakes - all made onsite by the pastry team. The Dubai outpost also boasts a stunning chocolate boutique filled with pralines, truffles and dragees and is reminiscent of the old chocolate and candy store in Rome. Must-try items are the cocoa braised beef, chocolate mocha French toast and the classic SAID cake. Don’t forget to tour the Chocolate Boutique where guests can sample pieces such as chocolate with chilli or ginger.
C H E FS / FACE TO FACE
THE FISH EXPERT
Chef Ahmad of Samakjé Restaurant & Lounge discusses the launch of this new Mediterranean eatery with a touch of the Levant, at The Pointe
T
ell us more about the concept. What can diners expect when they visit the restaurant?
Samakjé loosely translates to ‘Fish Expert’ and is an ode to the mastery of fishermen who expertly pick, prepare and plate well-seasoned and skillfully cooked seafood. Combining Mediterranean nuances with Levantine influences, our food is fresh, flavourful and a must-try fish experience at The Pointe. Like the interiors, our menu is both traditional yet contemporary, and although fish is the highlight of this dining destination, the mezze is worth taking note of with a variety of unique dishes such as Lobster kibbeh and Truffle labneh dip. It’s a restaurant where you come for the food and stay for the mood - our waterfront location offers front-row seats to the Palm Fountains.
Where do you source ingredients from? A majority of our fish is locally sourced, and we bring this in fresh, daily. We also source seafood from the Mediterranean Sea.
Are there any ingredients you’re particularly enjoying working with? Probably seafood and zaatar. Seafood because all the research needed to create Samakje’s menu gave me a new perspective on fish. Ultimately, the best ingredients should be treated as delicately and simply as possible, allowing the flavours to shine. I am currently experimenting with zaatar. This spice is so scarcely seen in international dishes, yet expats seem to love it, and it pairs perfectly with fish, meat and even as a salad dressing. I’m trying to find creative ways to incorporate zaatar into unconventional dishes, which is how I created zaatar pesto - it tastes just as good as it sounds.
Photographs SUPPLIED
Do you struggle to source ingredients or fear you won’t be able to get certain types? Fortunately, we live in a market where everything is widely available and easy to source, even vendors are supportive to source any special ingredients required. Being in the gulf means easy access to the best, most fresh seafood, and seasonal variety. Thankfully, this is not a concern.
How would you describe your cooking style? My cooking method is freestyle. I am not committed to mastering any particular cuisine, I want to know them all. I believe the best chefs are flexible and adaptable.
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
19
CH E FS / FACE TO FACE
20 The Pro Chef Middle East
/ Edition 51
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
21
CH E FS / FACE TO FACE
GET TO KNOW THE CHEF Favourite kitchen appliance? Sous Vide. Your go-to meal? A traditional Syrian meal is my comfort food and what I like to eat on most days at home. Favourite restaurant in Dubai? Aroos Damascus. The cuisine is Syrian, tastes like home, and they don't over complicate food. The flavours are authentic, dishes are simple yet flavourful, and it does Syrian cooking justice.
Name some of the standout dishes on the menu. While everything seafood on the menu is a standout dish, especially when paired with our house blend Samakje sauces, the mezze are no less. We’re extremely proud to offer many first-timers on the menu, signature to Samakje, like the Lobster Kibbeh and homemade Shanklish. The
22
The Pro Chef Middle East / Edition 51
“We’re highlighting the mezze culture where groups of friends and family sit, eat and enjoy banter for hours on end” Roasted Pecan Muhammara and Smoked Tuna Tartare with Labneh are quite popular too.
How does your restaurant differ from others in the city? Samakje was made to fill a gap, for the days you want a taste of Arabia but also a hint of the Mediterranean. With so much emphasis on the latest food trends, we’re not going back to the basics, but rather bringing back the basics to modern times. Experiential dining has become more for social media and less for actually enjoying the meal. At Samakje, we’re highlighting the mezze culture where groups of friends and family sit, eat and enjoy banter for
hours on end. Beyond the delicious dishes of expertly prepared and plated fish meals, it’s also this philosophy that Samakje aims to personify, that makes it unique.
Any plans in place for the near future? We have special menus for our weekday lunch and weekend family lunch deals, curating the a la carte menu to cater to both the professionals looking for a break from desk meals and those looking to dine and unwind with those near and dear. Samakje is a homegrown concept, and the success of our first outlet at The Pointe, which is still in its infancy stage, will determine expansion plans for the future.
ADVERTISING FEATURE
The perfect cup An in-depth look at the BLK Cab Coffee experience
British-founded BLK Cab Coffee celebrates its 3rd anniversary this December. The first branch opened at City Walk Dubai in 2017, a distant concept to the conventional coffee shop, bringing the London inspired terrace to Dubai, complete with green grass, street lampposts and of course, the London hackney cab, which served as the inspiration for the brands' hashtag, #hailacoffee. The owners did not only focus on creating a unique way of serving coffee, they serve their private blend of speciality coffee roasted in Dubai exclusively for them. This concept means that unlike commercial coffee, the coffee origin is known, which means the flavour profile
is distinctive. To put it simply, speciality coffee is special cause you know every detail about it. The farm the coffee cherries are from, the altitude, temperature and rainfall, they all affect the flavour profile. They also serve singleorigin coffee for more unique notes. In 2018, the second branch BLK Cab beach house opened its doors at La Mer South, exuding a beach house ambience with a logo comprising palm trees and a surfboard. The beach location has the additions of a mocktail and smoothie bar from the other side of the London cab and guests can play table tennis as well as foosball. The same year, the brand opened two locations in the Marina. BLK Cab by the marina showcases a lighthouse and boat-sail, alongside the Insta-famous giant anchor, while the sophisticated outlet at Dubai Marina Mall, BLK by BLK Cab Coffee, features a Brew Bar, where guests can choose their coffee beans and have it brewed to their liking. Offerings include the V60, Syphon, Chemex and Cold Brew. In 2019, the JBR outpost was born at Roxy Cinema, serving an array of additional menu items. As well as their famous bubble waffles and crepes with ice cream and BLK Ice cream, visitors love the ice cream doughnut sandwiches, pulled beef and avo buns and their rather unconventional but delish fries with ice cream and parmesan cheese. In 2021, their Flagship location will launch at Al Wasl called BLK Cab Central. This will serve as the regional HQ as they expand across the GCC and beyond.
maxx. just right.
You have big plans and success depends on many factors: The right concept, the right time and the right products. With the Convotherm maxx we give you the combi oven that fits your business. The Convotherm maxx offers you everything you need at a great price. Not too much, not too little. Just right. Maximize your opportunities with the new Convotherm maxx.
Win a Convotherm maxx!
Advancing Your Ambitions
ADVERTISING FEATURE
ConvoTherm maxx elevates your kitchen experience
The recent addition to the Convotherm combi-oven family is the brand-new Convotherm maxx that allows chefs to obtain optimal results with ease
S
uccess depends on several factors: the right concept, ideal timing, and equipment featuring modern technology. With that in mind, Convotherm’s most recent addition showcases the Convotherm maxx, embodying all of these aspects so that professional chefs can run an effective, simplified foodservice operation. The Convotherm maxx is the result of many years of learnings and experience as a premium manufacturer. Modern technical design is constantly measured by how easily tasks can be carried out. The Convotherm maxx perfectly represents this belief by utilising various, advanced technologies to cater to every chefs’ needs. The features include a seven-inch TFT HiRes glass touch display with brilliant images, scroll function and pictograms, as well as hygienic handles made of antibacterial and antimicrobial plastics, reducing the multiplication of microorganisms. Energyefficient triple glass minimises heat loss, ensuring lower energy consumption levels and high levels of safety and environmental friendliness. Additionally, it also boasts a powerful long-life LED light strip integrated into the appliance door and interiors, and is available as a table-top model, a 6.10 or 10.10, offering a greater capacity thanks to an additional shelf. Management functions are at the core of this combi-oven, as service periods are fast-paced, and the quality and selection of foods need to be topflight and unique. The Convotherm maxx offers climate management, which is crucial for cooking and baking. Automatic or individually controlled, it ensures that every baked good or cooked food is given precisely the right amount
of moisture. It also features a Crisp & tasty setting to remove moisture when required. On the production management front, Maxx's many intelligent features include the Press&Go, TrayView and TrayTimer, to maintain a stress-free overview of even the most complex processes. Reliable data management and networked cooking are also no longer an unattainable dream thanks to the WIFI or LAN interfaces, which means software updates or recipes can be uploaded centrally to several appliances whilst important HACCP data can easily be retrieved. The Convotherm maxx offers refined sensor technology and exceptionally well-thought-out Airflow Management, as well as an intelligent, individually programmable interaction of steam, hot air and time to ensure optimal quality is achieved all the time. With the three-level BakePro baking function, users get uniform cooking chamber climate for all baked products - fresh, frozen or parbaked. What’s more, frozen baked goods do not need to be warmed or thawed as the BakePro function ensures optimal rising, ideal elasticity of the crumb and perfect sheen. The best part! It’s equipped with ConvoClean: a fully automatic, and especially reliable and eco-friendly cleaning system that is even certified for unattended operation. Furthermore, the innovative HygieniCare package provides an extra plus for hygiene in the professional kitchen. Visit convotherm.com/maxx for more information.
ADVERTISING FEATURE
MEET THE
MYSTERY WOMAN Get to know Margarita Vaamonde, Head Chef at MasterChef, the TV Experience Restaurant
Do you bring forth your Venezuelan roots into your dishes? Absolutely, whenever I can, but I do not limit myself to just include Venezuelan touches. I also love incorporating Caribbean and Latin flavours and techniques in general. What do you like the most about your job? The endless growth and learning opportunities! Also, the joy of engaging with guests and my fantastic team. It's not simply the joy of preparing a lovely dish for someone, but also the chance to talk about the recipe, the techniques it involves, the memories it brings back, and at times the pleasure of sharing a joke. Also, I believe being a chef is the only job where I can truly be myself. Your go-to dish when cooking at home An incredibly indulgent grilled cheese sandwich or my new favourite, a Korean spring onion and asparagus pancake. Delicious! Any special ingredients from back home that are always in your pantry? Yes, we have this special par-cooked cornmeal flour (similar to Mexican masa) it’s always in my pantry. We use it to cook one of Venezuela’s most iconic food: Arepas, a thick flatbread, that is stuffed with pulled beef, or chicken then we add cheese, eggs, avocado, and anything else we have at hand.
H
ow did you get started? I grew up in the kitchen at home, I have memories of being less than five years old and already cooking my dad eggs for breakfast. I also vividly remember standing on top of a wooden stool, next to my mom while she was cooking, stirring the pot and trying to get my hands in anything I could. I even burnt myself with frying oil, but even that painful experience did not stop my curiosity. I then started constantly watching cooking shows and these TV programmes eventually became my first ‘cooking school’. A few years on, when I was at university, I had a friend working as a pastry chef for a great restaurant in town, she knew about my love for cooking and invited me over for a trial. I remember the Chef calling the orders, the pressure, the orchestrated chaos and thought “this is so much fun, I can do this and get paid for it!” and that’s how my professional cooking career began.
You’re the central force of the restaurant’s signature Mystery Box dish. Tell us more about the concept. This is the most iconic challenge in the MasterChef TV series - it’s a box that contains a random selection of ingredients which the contestants need to use to create a beautiful dish. At the restaurant, it’s the ultimate “challenge to the chef” as our guests can choose up to five ingredients from the box, which we then have to use to create a dish, in under 45 minutes. Plus, they get to judge our culinary creations. Favourite dish on the MasterChef menu This is a very hard question, it would have to be a tie between our Wagyu Tenderloin with Beurre Noisette Carrot Puree, and our Venison rubbed in coffee and Chile Morita, both are just ridiculously flavourful. Any new additions? Yes, we have added a few new items to our A la Carte and Brunch Menu, such as our Short Rib Beef Rendang, created by MasterChef Australia 2017 winner Diana Chan, a Pina Colada White Fish Ceviche, which I personally designed for our Brunch menu and is inspired by Latin-American flavours. We have also added the “Hello Dollies”, which is our reinterpretation of the American “cult” dessert from the ’60s, inspired by my sister who introduced me to them and perfected by our very talented pastry chef.
C H E FS / FACE TO FACE
FROM CASTILE AND LEÓN TO DUBAI Photographs SUPPLIED
Antonio Santos, Corporate Chef at Asador de Aranda discusses his latest role and launching during a pandemic
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
27
CH E FS / FACE TO FACE
O
f all your career highlights to date, which one are you most proud of?
The proudest moment of my career was taking on the challenge to be the Executive Chef at Asador de Aranda. After 20 years of experience in the culinary industry, it was a pleasure to join this authentic brand which I found to be compelling and exciting. Plus, being able to expand the brand internationally was a great opportunity. And now, here we are in Dubai.
Tell us about some of the standout dishes on the menu. Some of the best dishes on the menu are the El Cuarto del Asado which is the Roasted suckling lamb leg and The Menestra, an assorted vegetable stew with a velouté sauce and “Cecina” shavings (hand-cut Spanish cured smoked beef
28
The Pro Chef Middle East / Edition 51
“I love being able to create fun new dishes and enjoy working with all the ingredients” from Castilla y Leon). Lastly, the Torrijas; caramelized mellow brioche with almond crocant and vanilla ice cream.
ON A PERSONAL NOTE… Three indispensable tools in your kitchen Wood oven, Thermomix and my knife. A chef who inspires you Pedro Subijana in Akelarre - he's my mentor. Favourite culinary destination San Sebastian.
Where does your culinary inspiration stem from? While there are a variety of sources from which my inspiration stems, some of my most poignant moments come from my time in the Basque country in Spain, with its traditional surf and turf.
Are there any particular ingredients you’re enjoying working with at the moment? In all honesty, I love being able to create
fun new dishes and I enjoy working with all the ingredients. For me, whether it’s a sardine or a foie gras – both are important on my table and it all depends on how they’ve been treated so one can truly get the best results from it.
and I don’t think modern-day diners want that.
Did the restaurant undergo any changes to suit the “new normal” dining experience?
A lot of the lamb is used in the restaurant for dishes, from the shoulder to the leg and kidneys. We serve products in handmade glass plates and clay utensils ensuring less to no waste.
Yes, of course. Given the unpredictability regarding when the pandemic might end, we’ve had to make changes, not just to protect diners but also to protect our staff. Waiters at the restaurant wear masks and gloves, and surfaces are continuously sanitized. Everyone from the front of the house to the back of the house has to adhere to wearing PPE on the daily.
What do you believe diners are seeking in the current environment?
How do you see the world’s culinary landscape developing at the moment?
Diners, these days, are looking to go back to basics. They want something more authentic with no distortion of flavours. Covering a dish with complex ingredients tends to deliver the wrong experience
I think the world’s culinary landscape is highly diversified and there’s a lot of opportunities out there for development, for those who are brave enough to seek it and do it.
How do you seek to minimize waste and ensure sustainability throughout the restaurant?
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
29
VOTING OPEN! #prochefmeawards
Nominate yourself at prochefme.com/awards The Pro Chef Middle East Awards are back for the seventh year running to celebrate the achievements of those continuously raising the bar in the Middle East’s F&B sector. Voted for entirely by industry peers, these awards are a one-of-a-kind achievement and a prestigious stamp of approval. Don’t miss the chance to support your industry colleagues and cast your votes now:
theprochefme.com/awards
19
230+
Categories HOSTED BY
Nominees in 2019 ORGANISED BY
CATEGORY SPONSOR
Kitchen & Laundry Equipment Trading LLC
20,000+
Votes Cast in 2018 VENUE PARTNER
OFFICIAL MEDIA PARTNER
ADVERTISING FEATURE
The farm of the future In conversation with Nikita Patel, Founder of homegrown vertical farming company Oasis Greens
“Growing up, I loved hearing my grandparent’s stories, of them on their family farms in India and the beauty of having such fresh produce every day. A few years ago, I learned of hydroponics and indoor farming and got elated at the thought of being able to grow fresh produce consistently, right here in Dubai,” says Nikita Patel, Founder of Dubai’s latest homegrown vertical farming company Oasis Greens. Nikita’s family has been in the UAE for over 50 years and for the past few decades, in the food distribution business. Agriculture fit in seamlessly into their existing supply chain and logistics infrastructure. “We have always grown fruits and vegetables in our home garden in Dubai, so the thought of scaling this and setting up farms in the UAE was definitely a source of pride and excitement.” A Wharton School graduate, Nikita studied Finance and Social impact, believing in the power of business for positive societal and environmental benefits. Oasis Greens, as a result, was born out of the desire to increase access to fresh, locally grown produce at par with market prices, as well as to invest in sustainable food systems to make the planet cleaner and greener. Over the last few years, hydroponics technology has been adopted rapidly worldwide, as well as across the UAE. Globally, because of water scarcity and erratic weather patterns, outdoor agriculture has suffered. Crops that were traditionally grown
outdoors have been ravaged by extreme weather conditions, reducing global supply and increasing the prices of many of our staple crops. In the UAE, this technology is ideal because the farms are water efficient and allow produce to be grown year-round, even in the summer months. “We are able to grow using zero pesticides or chemicals, so our produce is completely safe with no nasties,” she says. The farm is sited in Dubai, so produce is harvested daily in the morning and delivered to customers within hours. This also reduces carbon footprint drastically, as produce isn’t packaged and flown in. It also means produce is fresh, nutrient-rich and flavour-packed. The demand for hydroponic produce is high amongst hotels, restaurants and catering companies that feature local, sustainable produce on their menu. That said, Oasis Greens is increasingly popular with consumers too, and available for purchase via their website as well as through online groceries and aggregators. “We supply to restaurants within hours of harvesting produce, to ensure the freshness is intact and ensure consistency of supply, which is key for restaurants,” says Nikita. Chefs are also encouraged to visit the farm, to see exactly where the produce comes from. “From our perspective, it is important for chefs and all our customers to be able to know how their produce is farmed, who is farming it, and where it is grown.” At the moment, Oasis Greens provides an extensive range of leafy greens such as rocket, several lettuce varieties, bok choy, heirloom varieties, and herbs. Over the next year, the farm will expand to include other flowering vegetables and certain fruits.
For more information, visit oasis-greens.com
FE ATU R ES / S US TA I N AB I LI T Y
Cultivating Composting Culture
Navneet Kaur, Co-Founder of Big Farm Brothers, sheds light on the latest eco-friendly launch in the UAE and why chefs and restaurateurs should foster composting habits
32
The Pro Chef Middle East / Edition 51
Global Food Security Index by 2021 and become first by 2051. The average annual amount of food waste is estimated at 197 kgs per person in the UAE, compared with the 95-115 kgs average per person in Europe and North America, according to a report produced by EY in collaboration with HSBC. One of the biggest expenses every restaurant faces is consistent and proper waste removal. The Green Restaurant Association estimates that a single restaurant can generate 25,000 to 75,000 pounds of unused food in a single year. 70% of all waste is made up of organic material like food scraps and soiled napkins - mostly biodegradable waste. With a minimal amount of planning and effort, independent restaurants can put kitchen waste to good use and increase profits. By changing their excess food disposal process, restaurants can become
PHOTOGRAPHS SUPPLIED
I
n light of the changes that the local and global markets are witnessing, and at a time when many consumers are keen to monitor prices and seize all possible opportunities to reduce spending, Big Farm Brothers has chosen to enter the UAE market to bridge the gap between farmers and consumers. The brand enables consumers to buy non-perishable goods directly from farmers while also supporting them by distributing their products at a profitable margin, eliminating the need for wholesalers and retailers. Products are environmentally friendly and sustainable, as good farmers ensure that their land is well kept with minimal, if any, usage of chemicals and fertilizers. These practices can sequester carbon, and also help ensure proper natural habitats for wildlife. Big Farm Brothers recent launch, the organic recycling and composting service ComBin, offers a comprehensive recycling and natural composting program in which organic waste is recycled. It's a simple process that takes away all the hassle of converting kitchen waste to the fertile soil. And the best part is, it’s completely odourless and environmentally friendly too. This cost-effective composting solution can reduce pollution and global warming over and above its economic value. The capacity of the Combin is 200 litre which is 30% - 40% of the waste produced in restaurants and hotels, making it an ideal solution for those looking to go green. Food safety and security standards are top priorities in the UAE, as they are targeting a 50% decrease in food wastage by 2030, aiming to join the top 10 countries in the
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
33
FE ATU R ES / S US TA I N AB I LI T Y
“With minimal amount of effort, independent restaurants can put kitchen waste to good use and increase profits� more sustainable. Ideally, restaurants cannot ignore the green impact composting can have and should think about the next step in the order of events through which their food travels: farm to table, after
34
The Pro Chef Middle East / Edition 51
composting, back to the farm. In practical terms, implementing a composting program is easier than one might think. By composting, chefs can grow and maintain their garden, as compost becomes a multifaceted tool that truly embraces the green movement. This appeals to ecoconscious dinners and the establishment can also promote the fact that they have a garden, enriched by their kitchen's organic waste. It also helps keep food prices lower because so much is produced and recycled on-site. Once restaurants adopt composting practices, they will permanently change their relationship with all of that inevitable, excessive waste and save some money in the process. Visit bigfarmbrothers.com for more information.
F E AT U R E S / S U PP ORT LOCAL
MEET THE SUPPLIER Granny Gothards enters the UAE market with artisan ice cream. Founder Amanda Stansfield tells us what makes it so special and why 2020 was the perfect time to expand
H
ow did the concept come around?
Granny Gothards started in 2012 making an artisan ice cream for top chefs and high-quality restaurants. The concept was to produce a variety of ice cream and sorbets that chefs would make themselves if they had the time. We were aware that commercially produced ice creams did not meet the quality, ingredients and variety of flavours that chefs wanted, so we decided to meet that need for them. As an artisan small batch producer, we were able to make as little as 20 ltrs or 2,000 ltrs, all starting with milk straight from the farm and using only the best ingredients. Our flavour development is also customer lead to meet the requirements of chefs.
Photographs SUPPLIED
How does it stand out from the rest? As an artisan ice cream maker based in Devon, there are a number of key factors that make our ice cream different to other commercially produced ice creams. It starts with the quality and freshness of the ingredients. Granny Gothards contain only the best natural ingredients and we don’t use any artificial preservatives, colourings or stabilisers. We have our milk delivered fresh every day, straight after morning milking ‘pasture to pot in a few hours!’ We use the best double cream and fresh free-range egg yolk produced locally and then the finest flavourings, whether it's the highest quality Italian Dulce De Leche cream, the Darkest Belgian chocolate or the purest Devon honey. We make a crème anglaise (custard) with the milk, egg and cream, and each ice cream we create has a different recipe, the quantity of milk and double cream is different for each recipe and we don’t have a base mix that we add the flavour to. Additional air isn't added into the ices. As a result, it is the perfect choice for serving in restaurants as it is a very dense product that will look as good when served at the dinner table, or delivered to the guest hotel room for room service.
Why was the UAE the next step in your expansion plans? We chose this country to launch our brand new packaging for our ice creams as we were aware of the appetite for high quality and innovative products. Another reason was the number of British expats who would crave a great British ice cream, especially this year, and of course the 365 days sunshine was a big positive when selling ice cream.
What are you most proud of? Our new wooden packaging where our ice creams are poured into a lining paper and sealed in a 100% compostable wooden pot. We are helping to save the planet one scoop at a time, and believe we are the first and only ice cream company in the world to offer this unique packaging concept. We are also aware the market here in Dubai seems to be controlled by the large brands and so we thought there was potential to disrupt these global giants and offer consumers an alternative to commercially produced ice cream, at a similar price to the cost of these mass produced ice creams.
Do you currently work with chefs or restaurateurs? Having recently won the prestigious title of Best Artisan Ice Cream and Sorbet Producer in the UK, we work with a number of chefs and restaurants including a host of celebrity and Michelin starred chefs in the UK. We are looking to further develop our Food Service market here in the UAE via our partners TACCT Global. A number of our chefs serve our ice cream as the main event and not just an accompaniment. For example, a quenelle of Burnt Butter Ice Cream, with roasted hazelnuts and a drizzle of caramel sauce, and then match this with an amazing beverage pairing. Others match flavours that work together - imagine Chocolate Torte with a Salted Honey Ice Cream and fresh figs! We also work in collaboration
with a number of TV chefs in the UK and are currently working on three TV projects for 202…(Shhh! BIG secrets for launch soon with lots of TV work coming up in the UK and the US). Granny Gothards is available exclusively at Kibsons in the UAE.
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
35
FE ATU R ES / IN S IGHT
With 190,000 sq ft of Markets to date, the curated Time Out Market Dubai is the first of its kind in the UAE. Adapting to various changes for a successful launch next year, Sera Mathew speaks to Didier Souillat, CEO of Time Out Market, to learn more of this exciting fixture
I
n front of the exquisite Burj Khalifa with a gorgeous waterfront position on Burj Lake lies 30,000 sq feet of space visited by millions annually. Soon, 17 kitchens, three bars, an events space and more of the Time Out Market brand will transform the free space at Souk Al Bahar. “Nowadays, people want to have the experience and entertainment that goes with it as an all-in-one, which these market experiences can offer,” says Didier Souillat, CEO of Time Out Market. Set to open in early 2021, Time Out Market Dubai will showcase the best of what the emirate has to offer through
“We don’t want to remind you every two seconds that there’s a pandemic out there. We are trying to beat the fear factor and bring the fun factor” and safety protocols in place. The Dubai venue will be the first to open ever since the pandemic, doing so with enhanced and easily removable measures. “Health and safety are at the core of what we do in Dubai,” assures Souillat. Bright yellow information vestibules will inform visitors what is expected of them and what the Market is doing to ensure guests are safe. “However, once you’re in the space, we don’t want to remind you every two seconds that there’s a pandemic out there. We are trying to beat the fear factor and bring the fun factor." To ease concerns, Souillat asserts that with ample space there is more room to social distance and people will feel confident in dining there. Creative dividers with engaging information will be placed between rooms and seating areas. Latest advancements in air circulation technology and avant-garde air filtration systems will also be in place to ensure customer safety. Meanwhile, sanitising stations, cleaning crews, and plexiglass shields will be made available at all dining counters. Visitors will also be given the freedom to interact with chefs. If they choose
36 The Pro Chef Middle East
/ Edition 51
Photographs SUPPLIED
TIME AFTER TIME
chefs, restaurateurs and imparting of cultural experiences through demo cooking sessions with leading chefs, art installations from homegrown artists and live music nights from the emirate’s virtuosos. The Dubai outpost is Time Out Market’s seventh opening since it began in 2014, but the journey was not easy. Deducing that people have high expectations in Dubai, Souillat claims it was vital to nail this launch from the beginning. “You can’t ramp up and say ‘Let’s see how it goes’. You got to be sure of it,” he emphasizes. “It took us four years to partner with Emaar Malls, who were willing to do the groundwork and give us space in front of the Burj Khalifa and the fountains. We had the location, the partner and the 2020 World Expo which was the initial plan.” Souillat explains the actual building was significant too. “We don’t like new builds. We needed a building with a story to tell.” The Markets idea, which originated eight years ago, came about as Editors of Time Out Portugal had an idea to bring the magazine to life. “They wanted to create a physical environment to represent what the magazines on the digital platforms were about. You could read everything, but now you could taste it, drink and smell it too.” Time Out markets has since opened across the US and Canada. In each market, the DNA of the brand remains the same, with much weight on location and local culture. While all locations were temporarily closed globally due to the pandemic, they have now resumed with heightened health
otherwise, customers can use the Time Out Market app to place food and drink orders or do so via the delivery service. While construction is still underway, Souillat expresses he cannot wait to see the reaction of the local community when they see all the top names together. Several homegrown local favourites have been confirmed as part of the 17 concessionaires joining the line-up, including Indian fusion concept MASTI; BB Social; folly by Nick & Scott; Vietnamese Foodies; bugerjoint Pickl; Pitfire for pizza; contemporary dessert specialists Brix and craft coffee roastery Nightjar. As for the actual venue, it continues to amaze Souillat. “You can’t get bored of that view. I know that every single tourist will go down to look at those fountains at least once, and this is where we’re going to be.” When enquired about future Time Out Markets in the region, Souillat says: “Like everybody else, we know there’s a lot of demand here. We are not saying no, because there’s so much potential in the region.” As for upcoming launches, expect to see a Time Out Market in Porto (Q4 2021), London (2022), and Prague (2023).
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
37
FE ATU R ES / EV EN T COV ER AG E
38 The Pro Chef Middle East
/ Edition 51
THE CREAM CHALLENGE
The French Dairy Board have been running promotional campaigns on French cream in the Middle East for over seven years. Last month, up-andcoming chefs and food influencers gathered at ICCA Dubai for a day in the kitchen with cream as the focal subject
P
astry has evolved tremendously over the last few years. Last month, the French Dairy Board brought together some of the UAE’s esteemed culinary experts, chefs and influencers to discuss the role of French cream and the evolution of pastry, especially in their line of work. At the round table discussion, one of the main topics was the increase in demand for French creams in the UAE, a result of French pastry continuing to grow in popularity. In commercial kitchens, there has been a considerable growth in fusion food and combining flavour profiles, from the West to the East - a trend that will continue to progress to suit the Middle East’s discerning palate and desire for novel creations. French pastry chef Claire Heitzler and Chef Mohamed Orfali of Orfali Bros Pastry Shop both agree that cream, and especially French dairy products, are at the core of dessert-making in their kitchens. It's the most trusted ingredient due to premium quality and consistency, as French cream texture doesn't vary from one pack to another. Moreover, it's flavour profile enhances just about any pastry, from savoury to sweet, making it the best ally for chefs. Renowned food influencer Samantha Wood (@Foodiva) pointed out the significance of high quality ingredients, stating that a croissant made with margarine is just not the same as one made with real butter. This is true for a good pastry as well, and in Samantha's words, the pastry-making process is, and should be, a “Labour of love.” Over the lockdown period, our sister magazine BBC Good Food ME noticed a surge in online searches for pastry, surpassing over a million views specifically for breads and cakes. We all know how quickly banana bread and Basque burnt cheesecake rose to fame; a clear indication that dairy products are pantry staples even at home kitchens. In the age of social media, inspiration is everywhere for those keen on cooking, baking
and creating sumptous pastries. Social media played an integral role during lockdown too. Most of us found ourselves either turning to food bloggers, influencers and magazines for creative recipe ideas, and posting photos of freshly baked and cooked creations. As people are getting more comfortable in the kitchen, there's a huge demand for simple recipes to reproduce at home in a jiffy - especially for those with a sweet tooth.
French pastry chef Claire Heitzler
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
39
CH E FS R/ FACE FE ATU ES / EVTO ENFACE T COV ER AG E
40 The Pro Chef Middle East
/ Edition 51
that “desserts are a necessity rather than a luxury.” We couldn't agree more!
Another rising trend is the desire for comfort, classic food. We can all be creatures of comfort, and sometimes, there's nothing like a classic dish to curl up with when in need of soul food. With everything going on, and more time spent indoors, people seem to be reaching for familiar foods - whether while cooking or ordering takeout. Perhaps, it's a way to transport to happier, more comforting times.
As with most businesses in the current climate, the hospitality industry has also been affected by COVID. Most chefs and consultants have noticed a major reduction of pastry dishes on menus, predominantly due to lack of pastry chefs in commercial kitchens. Chef Claire Heitzler brought to attention that pastry and the need for pastry chefs might sometimes be overlooked, but those working in hospitality need to remember
THE CREAM SPIRIT CHALLENGE 11 candidates gathered at ICCA Dubai to battle it out for the French Pastry Master 2020 title. All participants showed great enthusiasm and use of cooking methods and techniques to bring forth their skills. French dairy products were at the forefront of this challenge, where participants had three and a half hours to create a contemporary version of the classic French dessert, St. Honoré. The impressive jury saw Samantha Wood (Foodiva), Chef Claire Heitzler - who flew in from France just for this occasion - influencer Homam Ayaso, and the brothers from Orfali Bros Pastry Shop, all deliberating on the dessert’s flavour profile, presentation, respect of tradition and creativity.
THE WINNER OF THE CREAM SPIRIT CHALLENGE Jordanian-national Sanad Jabar (@Sandelicious) won the French Pastry Master 2020 accolade Describe your final creation? An elevated version of the gateau St. Honoré featuring orange blossom with a pistachio base. Did you study pastry? Yes, I actually studied at ICCA and was at the top of my class. I love pastry and have a passion for it as it requires a more precise cooking style. Your future plans? I plan on setting up my own pastry shop or café in the near future. My main focus will be to educate guests on the produce used in special creations, to encourage more people to take up pastry.
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
41
O N THE PASS / REC I P ES
PLANT POWER
Venezuelan national Kismerlly Alvarez (known as Kiki) and Chef at SEVA, followed her culinary passion right after graduating university. From cafés and organic bars, Kiki climbed the career ladder and started her own Healthy Café in Venezuela, with a friend. Years later, she soared across the planet and landed in Dubai to work at Coya, Four Seasons Resort Jumeirah. A trip to Life’n One instantly made her fall in love with the concept, so much that she wanted to work at the plant-based café. Months later, she found herself developing recipes for the venue, which has recently been renamed to SEVA. Kiki often plays with Latin flavors without sacrifices, creating arepas and vegetable ceviche without the fish, to give people a taste of her homeland.
42
The Pro Chef Middle East / Edition 51
Kitchari ½ cup brown rice 1 cup red lentils 2 tbsp coconut oil 2 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp coriander powder 1 tsp fennel seeds 1 tsp fenugreek 1 tsp turmeric 2 tsp sea salt 4 cups vegetable stock 1 tbsp ginger, grated 4 cups grated zucchini 1 carrot (medium size), grated 1 celery stick, sliced small crowns 2 cups broccoli, finely chopped to form rice
1 Wash and soak the rice for at least 1 hour. Then wash again in a fine mesh colander under cold water, until the water runs clear. 2 In a saucepan over medium-high heat, heat the coconut oil. Add the ginger and cook, stirring for 30 secs. Add the cumin, coriander, fennel seeds, fenugreek, and turmeric. Cook for another 30 secs, until fragrant. 3 Add the lentils and rice and stir to coat in the spices. Follow with the salt and pour in the vegetable stock. Bring to a boil, cover, and reduce the heat to medium-low, mixing occasionally. 4 Simmer for 40 mins, stirring occasionally, until the beans are tender but not mushy and most of the liquid has been absorbed. (You may need to add more water if the mixture becomes to dry or begins to stick to the bottom of the pan). 5 Stir in the broccoli, cauliflower, celery, and carrots. Cover and cook for another 10 mins.
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
43
O N THE PASS / REC I P ES
Guru Salad 100g kimchi ½ cup buckwheat 20g lollo rosso ½ cup immune booster mushroom ½ avocado red radish alfalfa mustard cress mango & ginger dressing white and black sesame seeds
44 The Pro Chef Middle East
/ Edition 51
For the mango & passion fruit dressing ½ cup rice vinegar 1g ginger 50g mango 100ml orange juice 1 tsp tamari Method 1 Slice the lollo rosso and make a bed on the plate with it. Place the buckwheat on one side, and the kimchi on the other side. 2 Add the mushroom on top of the buckwheat and position the avocado facing down. Pour the mango and passion fruit dressing all over the avocado. 3 Top with black and white sesame seeds all over the salad, follow with the dressing. Garnish with alfalfa, mustard cress, and red radish slices.
O N T H E PA S S / RE CI P E S
ROOTED IN TRADITION
The highly anticipated Brasserie Boulud by Daniel Boulud has finally opened its doors at Sofitel Dubai The Obelisk, bringing a novel French experience to Dubai’s dining scene. Celebrity chef Daniel Boulud’s very first restaurant in the Middle East offers French-inspired contemporary cuisine and a slice of what diners feast on at his two Michelin-starred New York City restaurant, Daniel. Here Nicolas Lemoyne, Chef De Cuisine shares two recipes to try from the menu.
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
45
O N THE PASS / REC I P ES
Rillettes de Canard, Onion Chutney & Grilled Sourdough Bread Serves 2 2 whole duck legs 200ml (or 1 cup) of duck fat 10g (1 tsp) of rock salt 5g black pepper corn 2 pcs of bay leaf 5g (a small bunch) of thyme 2 tbsps of Dijon mustard
Pickled onions 20 ml (1 tbsp) of rice vinegar 5g (1 tsp) of sugar 5g (a quarter of) red onion Onion chutney 10g (half) of red onion 10g (half) of white onion 2g of (1 tsp) butter 2g (1 tsp) honey 3ml (1 tsp) sherry vinegar 1g black peppercorn Mustard dressing 1 whole egg 3g (1 tbsp) Dijon mustard 2 ml (1 tsp) of sherry vinegar 15 ml (1 tbsp) of corn oil Salt to taste Garnish 6 slices of smoked duck Approximately 10 pomegranate seeds 10 ml reduced pomegranate juice or 250 ml of fresh pomegranate juice 4 – 5 leaves of mustard cress (optional) 2 thick slice ofgrilled sourdough bread
1 A day prior, dry rub the duck leg with the salt, black peppercorn, thyme and bay leaf and let it sit overnight in the chiller. 2 After minimum of 24-hours, place the marinated duck for thawing. In a microwave or on the pan, melt the duck fat and then pour on the thawed duck leg. 3 Now place the duck leg in the oven and let it cook for 4 hours at 90-degree centigrade while covering it with a lid or aluminum foil. 4 To prepare the pickled onion, cut 5g (or a quarter) of an onion into thin slices and plate it on a heat-proof bowl. Next, bring 1 tsp of sugar and 20 ml of rice vinegar to boil and pour it on the cut onions. 5 Start preparing the onion chutney. Take half of the red and white onion each and chop
46 The Pro Chef Middle East
/ Edition 51
it into thin slices. On a hot pan, melt 2g (or 1 tsp butter) and add in the onions. After 5 minutes, add 2g (or 1 tsp) of honey and 3 ml (or 1 tsp) of sherry vinegar and cook it for another 10 minutes. At this point, it will turn into brown paste. Cool and set aside. 6 For the mustard dressing, prepare one hard-boiled egg by cooking it for 6 minutes and de-shell it while it is still hot. Then transfer the egg into a blender and add in 3g (or 1 tbsp) of Dijon mustard, and 2 ml (or 1 tsp) of sherry vinegar. Meanwhile, mix the two oils separately and pour it slowly into the blender. Finish off the mustard dressing with the desired amount of salt. 7 For the pomegranate reduction, boil 250 ml of fresh pomegranate juice till it reduces into a thick syrup.
8 After 4 hours in the oven, the duck will be a golden color from the outside. Test the meat by using a fork, and you will notice that the meat falls off from the bone very easily. Pull off the duck meat with a fork and place it in a large bowl while separating the duck fat and preserving it in a separate container. Add half ofww the duck fat and 2 tbsp of Dijon mustard into the bowl containing the duck meat and mix it well. 9 Take a jar or a short glass and layer it with the duck meat first. Then add in a layer of the onion chutney on top of it. Add in dots of mustard dressing and pomegranate reduction with the help of a tsp. To finish, decorate the dish with mustard cress and serve with hot grilled sourdough bread.
Spicy Tuna Crudo with Avocado, Cirtus and Sesame Dressing Serves 2
5g (half) avocado 10g (half) babygem lettuce 80g (2 thick slides) watermelon
120g of fresh tuna, cut into small cubes 5g (half) grapefruit, de-skinned and pulled out into segments 5g (half) orange, de-skinned and pulled out into segments 5g (5 pieces) of red radishes, cut into quarters 5g (1 piece) of cucumber, scooped into small balls or pearls
The dressing 5g (1 tsp) black sesame 5g (1 tsp) white sesame 3g (1 clove) garlic 1g (1 pinch) chilli flakes 10ml (1 tbsp) sesame oil 5g (1 tsp) honey 3g (1 chunk) ginger 5g (1 tsp) oyster sauce
1 Take one large bowl and add in finely chopped ginger and garlic, along with chili flakes, sesame seeds, sesame oil, oyster sauce and honey. After mixing the dressing, place it in the chiller for 10 minutes. 2 While the dressing is in the chiller, cut the vegetables and the meat and put it into a large salad bowl. 3 Once the seasoning is ready, pour the seasoning into the salad bowl while mixing it. 4 Present the dish by arranging the ingredients on a flat serving plate, preferably a white plate that will make the colors of the citrus fruits and the tuna stand out.
Edition 51 / The Pro Chef Middle East
47
O N THE PASS / S W EET EN D I N G
AROUND THE WORLD Here’s what celebrity chefs and restauranteurs are up to
Yotam Ottolenghi’s Ready concept has started delivery nationwide, following the success of his food and menu kits within the city, from restaurants Rovi and Nopi. Dishes cooked in the Test Kitchen are delivered chilled to the doorstep and feature pulled lamb tagine, ricotta meatballs, and braised spinach, paneer, herbs and lime.
AUSTRIA
NEW YORK Michelin three-star restaurant Eleven Madison Park has joined the takeout and home delivery service bandwagon, offering “EMP To Go,” a dinner kit that comprises ready-to-cook Green Circle chicken with sides, and a dessert prepared by Chef Daniel Humm. The kit costs $275 (AED 1,010) and with each order, Eleven Madison Park provides ten meals for the needy through Rethink; a food charity.
48 The Pro Chef Middle East
LONDON
/ Edition 51
Max Stiegl from Gut Purbach took home the coveted Gault & Millau's “Chef of the Year” 2020 award. Sloveniannational Stiegl relocated to Salzburg when he was a child and later began his training at the Abfalter Inn. At Inamera restaurant in Rust, he received his first Michelin star at the age of 21, making him the youngest star chef in history.
BANGKOK Australian chef, restaurateur and cookbook author, David Thompson, known for redefining Thai fine dining food has returned to the city with a brand-new project, Aksorn. The restaurant recently opened atop five-story shophouse Central: The Original Store.
Beef from Ireland
where we work in harmony with nature Ireland’s lush green fields, fresh, clean air and plentiful rain create the perfect environment for rearing grass-fed cattle - resulting in prime quality, naturally tasty beef. Our farmers and producers continue to work with care, commitment and respect for tradition. As members of Origin Green Ireland’s leading edge national food quality
and sustainability programme - their work is also measured and independently audited to drive continuous improvements in food safety, traceability, animal welfare and greenhouse gas emissions. To learn more about how we work in harmony with nature like nowhere else in the world, visit irishfoodanddrink.com
