PUBLICATION LICENSED BY DUBAI PRODUCTION CITY, DCCA
EDITION 53
DARK KITCHENS
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CHEF’S SPECIALS
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INTERVIEWS
EDITORIAL EDITOR: Nicola Monteath nicola.monteath@cpimediagroup.com DIGITAL EDITOR: Serena Botelho e Warren serena.warren@cpimediagroup.com ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER: Liz Smyth liz.smyth@cpimediagroup.com BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER: Diarmuid O'Malley diarmuid.omalley@cpimediagroup.com prochef.sales@cpimediagroup.com DESIGN Froilan A. Cosgafa IV FOR OTHER ENQUIRIES, PLEASE VISIT: www.theprochefme.com FOUNDER CPI MEDIA GROUP Dominic De Sousa (1959-2015)
EDITOR'S NOTE
Welcome Chefs, welcome to the 53rd edition of The Pro Chef Middle East. It’s time for a change, which is why this issue features a fresh, revamped look in keeping with the times. Inside this edition, we hear from culinary professionals and industry leaders raising the bar for the Middle East’s food scene. Ever wondered what a day in the life of a Culinary Director is like? Sanjay Dwivedi gives us a peek into 24 hours of his recent trip to Dubai. We also speak with the Samer S. Hamadeh, the creator of one of the most exciting concepts in the UAE, Akiba Dori. Meanwhile, a chat with Khalil Tawil, Founder of K Consultancy, gives us a closer look at his secret formula to creating award-winning brands. Dark Kitchens have been a topic of interest, especially since the start of the pandemic. Digital Editor Serena Botelho e Warren explores the Rise of Dark Kitchens in the UAE and why independent chefs and established restaurateurs are looking into this alternative to cater to on-demand service. As always, we cover the latest regional news, restaurant openings in town, and plenty more, for chefs looking for local and international flavours.
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37 CONTENTS 5 NEWS BITES
Culinary news from the Middle East and beyond. Discover new chef appointments, expansion plans and plenty more.
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DINING IN THE CITY
Ready to head out for a meal or order in? Discover the latest spots around town worth dining at.
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CHEF’S SPECIAL
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A DAY IN THE LIFE OF…
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MEET THE FOUNDER
We follow stunning, inventive creations on menus across the country. Sanjay Dwivedi, Culinary Director at COYA, takes us through 24 hours on his recent trip to Dubai.
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The Pro Chef Middle East / Edition 53
Samer S. Hamadeh discusses concept creation and expansion plans for Akiba Dori.
THE PRO CHEF MIDDLE EAST
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THE DRIVING FORCE
Khalil Tawil, Founder of K Consultancy talks about the launch of his firm and necessary moves, to create a successful, award-winning concept.
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THE RISE OF DARK KITCHENS IN THE UAE
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Explore the dark kitchen concept and why it offers chefs and restaurateurs a promising future.
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MODERN TOUCH
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THE ISLAND LIFE
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AROUND THE WORLD
Homegrown heroes Nick & Scott share two recipes from their newly launched restaurant folly Workshop.
Andrei Palm, Chef de Cuisine at Shimizu, Waldorf Astoria Maldives, serves delectable flavour-packed beverages and meals at his island restaurant. Here are two stunning dishes to try from his menu.
Stay up-to-date with current F&B news from across the globe.
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Locally farmed oysters in Dibba, United Arab Emirates www.dibbabay.com dibbabay
info@dibbabay.com
+971501700389
NEWS BITES
CULINARY NEWS FROM THE MIDDLE EAST AND BEYOND
LINCOLN HOSPITALITY ANNOUNCES FRANCHISING PROGRAMME Food and Beverage group, Lincoln Hospitality has announced its decision to accept franchise proposals from the GCC and globally, for La Serre and Distillery. The company aims to create opportunities for global and regional food and beverage players by expanding Dubaiborn culinary concepts. Ralph Homer, CEO and Founder of Lincoln Hospitality and Co-Founder of Restaurant Secrets Inc. explains that through this franchising programme, people can become a part of the brand’s story. Additionally, those looking to franchise the brands will also have full support.
KRUSH BRANDS REVEAL TWO NEW JOINT VENTURES
Photographs SUPPLIED
Viking Bageri and Jetlagged Chef have joined the full-service, multi-kitchen, food technology, operating, restaurant, franchising, and last-mile delivery company, KRUSH Brands. The family now comprises Freedom Pizza, Wildflower Poke & More, Coco Yogo Vegan Kitchen, and Salad Jar, on top of supply relationships with My Fruitful Day and Hapi Restaurant (local Chef Paul Frangie), as part of its financially and technologically efficient ecosystem that supports local restaurants and foodpreneurs. Viking Bageri, founded by Magnus and Maria Ericson (affectionately known as Mr. and Mrs. Viking) has rapidly developed a cult-like following for its signature baguettes. Meanwhile, Jetlagged Chef founded by Chef Eliza Veitch offers incredibly healthy and delicious meal plans. By teaming up with KRUSH Brands, both brands will now expand from seamless in-house orders to delivery service. KRUSH Brands is also looking to partner with founders who want to lead and grow their businesses. This can be a restaurant concept or an awesome product that can be made available to customers through their digital and delivery platform. For more information, email foodpreneurs@krushbrands.com.
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TH E C OUN TR Y
EVGENY KUZIN AND CHEF IZU ANI JOIN FORCES WITH ACCOR Homegrown hero Chef Izu Ani and influential restauranteur Evgeny Kuzin have partnered with the augmented hospitality group Accor to launch Kitch-In, an intelligent food technology platform. The forces behind successful restaurant concepts including Gaia and Shanghai ME, Evgeny Kuzin and Chef Izu Ani aim to deliver premium cuisine and high-quality flavours at affordable prices. The value-added F&B innovation launched last month with plans to revolutionise home delivery and in-room dining through intelligent infrastructure that manages and maintains consistent quality control. The development of a custom-made digital framework allows Kitch-In to enhance and elevate the lives of its users, as well as transform room service, across the hotel industry worldwide. By working with Accor, Kitch-In and its users benefit from the wide reach and accessibility of hotels, as well as operations, logistics and professional kitchen teams trained to oversee food production processes and standards to the highest quality. The team merges award-winning expertise with the knowledge of food scientists and nutritionists, led by CEO Adrian Azodi, who brings forth skills and insights from his previous role at Deliveroo. Kitch-In currently has four digital brands, however, more are planned to go live before the end of the year. For now, users can get a taste of fine Italian food as well as Greek, Japanese and Korean street food specialities.
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CHEF LUISA FERNANDA CAICEDO JOINS MONDOUX European-inspired restaurant, Mondoux, at Dubai Creek Harbour, has appointed Luisa Fernanda Caicedo as the new executive chef. Hailing from Medellín, Colombia, Chef Luisa - who graduated from the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City - launched her career at Perry Street, the brainchild of renowned Michelinstarred Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Jean-Georges’ son, Celebrity chef Cédric Vongerichten, helmed the kitchen at the time and over their 10 years of collaboration, has proven to be a great mentor and source of inspiration to Luisa. Chef Luisa also spent three years in Jakarta, Indonesia, heading up Vong Kitchen and Le Burger, both curated by Jean-Georges and Cédric Vongerichten. At Mondoux, Caicedo is currently serving an international menu with a back-tobasics approach. Expect dishes made from scratch, with locally sourced produce.
JUAN RAMON SOBERO LLACA JOINS CASA DE TAPAS Renowned Spanish eatery, Casa de Tapas, has announced a new Chef de Cuisine, Juan Ramon Sobero Llaca. An ardent Spanish food lover, Chef Juan has curated a menu brimming with authentic flavours and innovative twists. He previously worked as a Chef de Cuisine for several renowned restaurants including Vegamar Bodegas, before moving across the globe to take charge of The Tapas Bar at J by Jose Andres in Mexico. The chef then returned to Europe where he took the culinary reigns at Quisitapas, Westin Excelsior in Florence. In 2017, he set his sights on the Middle East and took command as Chef de Cuisine in both La Liga Lounge in Doha and Mercado Andaluz, St Regis in Amman, Jordan. At Casa de Tapas, Chef Juan leads his culinary team in alignment with the laid back, ‘mi casa es su casa’ ethos that the restaurant is known for. Expect an exciting, flavour-packed menu showcasing huevos rotos con ibérico (eggs served Spanish-style), pulpo a la gallega (Galician-style octopus with confit potatoes and smoked paprika), and arroz de Senyoret (Spanish rice with prawns, cuttlefish, sea bass and saffron), amongst other dishes that pay homage to Spanish culture.
FRESH DEL MONTE ROLLS OUT ANOTHER E-COMMERCE STORE In another milestone for the company, Fresh Del Monte MENA recently announced the launch of its latest e-commerce store in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia. Following the success of the UAE platform, Fresh Del Monte launched the e-commerce store to provide consumers in KSA with a seamless grocery-buying experience. The platform features high-quality fresh fruit, vegetables, snacks, freshly squeezed juices and meals, and makes it easy for shoppers to find the right foods for their specific needs and health objectives, whilst providing tailored and informative recommendations based on consumers’ preferences. Visit sa.myfreshdelmonte.com or ae.myfreshdelmonte.com.
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WHERE FOOD AND CHEFS COME FIRST theprochefme.com
THE C OU NT RY
TAKE A LOOK AT THE LATEST HOTSPOTS IN TOWN THAT YOU JUST CAN'T MISS FOR A MEMORABLE MEAL
THE LIGHTHOUSE RESTAURANT & CONCEPT STORE A homegrown restaurant and concept store, The Lighthouse brings together the best of F&B and retail, under one roof. The recently unveiled outlet at Mall of the Emirates offers a breakfast, lunch and dinner menu comprising an innovative interpretation of Mediterranean-inspired soul food classics and pastries. New dishes exclusive to this outlet include the spelt and artichoke salad; grilled octopus with smoky hummus; short rib with Parmesan risotto; slow-cooked lamb couscous; short rib burger; roasted cauliflower risotto; pear Tatin; caramel thyme tart; and double chocolate cake, to name a few. Do stop by the concept store for a curated selection of hand-picked gifting items. Contact +9714 238 0027.
HUNTER & BARREL, VIDA EMIRATES HILLS Hailing from Australia is this award-winning high-end casual dining restaurant and lounge concept, renowned for its hunt, gather and fire-inspired creations. The venue showcases two private dining spaces, expansive patio seating, an adjoining full-service bar and lounge, and an elevated DJ booth. Meat-lovers can feast on succulent smoky meats, open fire prawns and smoky chicken wings, Angus beef and cornfed chicken burgers and prime cuts including fillet, rump, sirloin and rib-eye, and a 1.3kg tomahawk or 700g Angus T-bone designed to be shared. All steaks are either grain-fed, CAB prime or wagyu, with marble scores between 2-7+. In addition to this, Hunter & Barrel’s also offers sumptuous charcoal roasted skewers and vegetables, so there’s something for everyone. Polish off your meal with a sweet ending of pavlova or baked pain perdu. Contact +9714 589 0970.
THE VOID, STUDIO ONE HOTEL Hotfoot to this eatery for their Friday special. Relish sharing-style starters such as avocado fritters, loaded naan nachos, and chicken naan. Take your pick from mains including lamb kofta with sumac salad and garlic sauce, minted chicken tikka, blacked salmon and charred vegetable skewers. Sharing-style salads such as German potato salad, healthy quinoa and smokey chicken and naan salad, make for a substantial side. And for dessert, feast on a decadent vanilla fried ice cream with chocolate sauce. From 1-4pm. AED150 inclusive of soft drinks and AED299 with house beverages. Contact +9714 581 6870.
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ARMANI/PAVILION Break your fast at the stunning Armani/Pavilion this Ramadan and embark on a culinary journey across the continents. The extensive Iftar buffet showcases the best of signature dining from the hotel’s five award-winning restaurants, complemented by seasonal music. Savor a medley of dates and fresh juices, before moving onto European classics, exotic Indian spiced favourites, contemporary Italian delights, delectable Japanese dishes and authentic flavours from the Levant to the Mediterranean. AED 275 per person (inclusive of Ramadan juices). Contact +9714 888 3666.
CINQUE, FIVE PALM JUMEIRAH Nothing says La Dolce Vita quite like this modern Italian fine dining experience reimagined. Created by the award-winning Chef Giuseppe Pezzella, diners can expect dishes inspired by the true flavours of Italy’s Amalfi Coast and best-kept secrets of local Italian kitchens. Signature dishes include roasted octopus with snowpeas, marinated potatoes, cucumber confit and sweet onion, linguine alla Nerano and slow-cooked lamb chops with sweet potato purée, spicy tomato tart and lamb jus. Satisfy your sweet tooth cravings with the delectable mango e chocolate; white chocolate mousse, mango and mango sorbet. Contact +9714 455 9989.
AYAMNA, ATLANTIS THE PALM
THE RITZ-CARLTON, DUBAI
Beirut-born Chef Ali has curated a special set-menu for an Iftar and Suhoor experience this Ramadan. The wide array of Lebanese cuisine features signature dishes including slowcooked lamb shoulder and mixed grill, fish tagine, baked ouzi, and shrimps kunafa. No meal is complete without dessert, and here the tempting assortment includes date cheesecake with baklava ice cream, katayef, Opera cake, and a moist maamoul mad bil ashta (semolina butter cake). Bespoke, pre-recorded entertainment brings both Iftar and Suhoor to life, and guests can head out to the starlit terrace after, to unwind with a cup of tea or coffee.
Order a lavish Iftar or Suhoor spread and prep your dining table for a meal at home. The spread includes a choice of three tiers, comprising favourites such as lentil soup, stuffed vine leaves, a plethora of dips and salads, falafel, kibbeh, fatayer, seafood and meat mixed grills, barramundi with saffron rice, Emirati lamb harees and desserts such as Umm Ali, cheese kunafa, katayef nuts and cheese and fruit platter. All boxes serve up to four people and are available for takeaway from The Lobby Lounge.
The Iftar experience is available for AED210 per person (inclusive of water and Ramadan juices), while Suhoor is priced at AED185 per person minimum spend on the set menu or à la carte offerings. Contact +9714 426 2626.
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Available until May 12. From AED680 for the bronze box (inclusive of dates and dried fruit, hot and cold mezze, chicken vermicelli soup, four main courses and three desserts) to AED1,350 for the gold box (inclusive of 17 hot and cold mezze dishes, two soups, mains and seven desserts). Contact +9714 318 6150.
The content of this document represents the views of the author only and is his/her sole responsibility. The European Commission and the Consumers, Health, Agriculture and Food Executive Agency do not accept any responsibility for any use that may be made of the information it contains.
European Fruits: the essential and healthy nutritional choice Juicy, crunchy and sweet, with bright colors and rich aroma: all the balance of nature contained in a fruit, from the trees of the Greek orchards on your table! The cultivation of fruit trees has flourished in Europe for centuries, being intertwined with the culture and life of the Mediterranean people. The microclimate of the area with its mild temperatures, the sufficient rainfall and the abundant sunshine offers the ideal conditions, influencing in the best way the quality of the fruits produced in the area. The experience of the people who are working in their production, combined with the modern scientific methods and the strict standards of quality and control applied in Europe ensure a safe product on your plate, of high nutritional value and unique quality. During the cultivation and production of European fruits, all legal requirements and safety and hygiene standards of the national standards and international quality protocols (certified by AGRO 2, GLOBALGAP, BRC, IFS and ISO 22000) are fully adopted and implemented. Apples, Kiwis, Peaches, Nectarines and Cherries from Europe, produced in Greece: Add to your daily diet the ultimate healthy habit!
SERVING SUGGESTION: Griddled peaches with prosciutto & blue cheese INGREDIENTS
EASY
P
4 ripe peaches sliced
100g blue cheese, crumbled
4 tbsp olive oil
85g pack prosciutto
100g rocket
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
PREPARATION
Brush the peach quarters with 2 tbsp of the olive oil and grind a little black pepper over. Heat a griddle pan, add the peaches, cooking for 2-3 mins on each cut side until caramelised. Set aside. Toss the rocket in 1 tbsp of the olive oil and pile up with the cheese and prosciutto on 4 plates. Top with the peach quarters. Whisk together the remaining oil and the vinegar, spoon over the salad and serve.
delieufruits
delieufruits@gmail.com
www.delieufruits.eu
ELEVATED DESSERTS Michelin-starred Pastry Chef René Frank discusses his latest collaboration with FIVE Hotels & Resorts
F
rom CODA to FIVE Hotels & Resorts. Tell us, what brings you to the Middle East?
Here in Dubai, desserts are defined as the sweet finish to your meal. The core of my philosophy is to create desserts that balance sweetness, using only natural ingredients, cutting out refined sugar and industrial processed ingredients, so you can easily have several desserts in a row and still hit the dance floor. There is big potential for the dessert cuisine in the Middle East. I have seen a great synergy between FIVE Hotels & Resorts and my philosophy as a chef and my restaurant, CODA. This hotel brand dares to be different, the same way we’ve also dared to be different at my restaurant by questioning and redefining what a dessert can be. In Dubai, we worked with four of the award-winning restaurants at FIVE Hotels & Resorts, including rooftop lounge The Penthouse, gourmet Chinese Maiden Shanghai, street food hotspot Soul St, and homely café The Delisserie. The creations for each of these venues are tailored to the concept of the venue, leaving room to be experiential and creative. For example,
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we grind our cocoa beans at “The Delisserie” to make hot chocolate and cakes. We also developed a concept for refined sugar-free desserts for the Chinese-inspired desserts at Maiden Shanghai and street food-inspired desserts at “Soul St”.
How are you planning on shaking up the dessert scene?
As a chef, I always feel responsible for the food that I am serving my guests. Food should be something that makes you feel good, that’s why I always have an eye on the balance of a dish, regarding sweetness and flavour. At FIVE Hotels & Resorts, we have taken the time to work on desserts that complement your dining experience, so you leave satisfied but are still able to enjoy your night out after. For example, at gourmet Chinese Maiden Shanghai, we have created the Almond Rice Bowl. This creation takes on inspiration from the traditional Chinese dining culture, where rice was usually served at the end of the dinner. Symbolically, we’re using a cleaver knife to break through the richness of the dessert. It’s a low carb vegan rice bowl starring almond, blueberry, soy milk and puffed rice presented in a chocolate rice bowl. It’s a good example of how a dessert can be super light and attractive on camera at the same time.
Where does your inspiration stem from? My inspiration comes especially from travelling. I enjoy seeing what someone likes and what someone dares to eat. At The Penthouse, we have created
the fluffy duck; a duck-shaped mango and passionfruit mousse on a mango and passionfruit bubble bath. I got the inspiration for this dish when I was visiting Hong Kong. I came across a rubber duck art piece in the harbour by Florentijn Hofman. The deflated duck art piece and famous ‘Fluffy Duck’ cocktail played a big role in creating this dessert, which since has become a signature dish of mine. Also, the flavours of my childhood. My grandmother’s kitchen and our garden. A dessert is a very emotional dish because sweet things always remind you of your childhood. At Soul St, we have created the Nitro Black Forest dessert which pays tribute to one of my favourite childhood desserts, the Black Forest cake from my hometown in South Germany. Simple yet elevated inspired by mountains, trees and snow, it comes with chocolate mousse, cherry compote and vanilla foam.
Are you enjoying working with any unique ingredients at the moment?
We have developed a dessert selection individual to each venue, to reflect the restaurant’s theme and also provide room to be playful, modern and experimental. In every menu, you should find something for each taste and desire. The combinations of various flavours, however, dare to be different! At Maiden Shanghai, we have created the coconut nectar custard. Using allnatural ingredients, starring often forgotten produce like bone marrow. A homage to raw products and statement to reduce ingredient wastage. Made with unrefined Indonesian coconut sugar. Whereas at The Penthouse, we have the Japanese Adzuki Cheesecake, it’s a combination of Japanese flavours with the finesse of French cheese. Anko, which is an Adzukibean paste is one of the most traditional flavours in Japanese sweets. At Soul St, we wanted to represent the restaurant’s international street food concept and have created the Pineapple Masala this dessert is all about surprises. Infused with Indian spices and inhouse made curry powder. Starring the different textures of the pineapple with curry marinated pineapple pieces, pineapple granita and almond crumble. Lastly, at the Delisserie, you have to try the Cheddar Cheese fondant, a floating cheesecake made with Cheddar, served with red pepper ice cream.
Dine at FIVE Palm Jumeirah and FIVE Jumeirah Village, call 04 455 9989 or visit fivehotelsandresorts.com
TH E C HEF
Tell us about the dish.
ON MENUS ES CURRENTLY THE BEST DISH I – AS S ACROSS DUBA AT RESTAURANT LV S THEMSE ES CHOSEN BY CHEF
Every element is meticulously picked and/or made; from the dough itself to the rocket leaves that are grown – we will soon be picking straight from our own container farm. As the star of the dish is beetroot, we have ensured the freshest produce from around the world has been picked in order to highlight its beauty. Fresh local beetroot, candied beetroot from South Africa and the Chioggia beet from Italy, all of the elements get elevated by light, crisp ingredients such as Greek yogurt, orange and green apple.
What makes it a standout dish?
IVANA BOGICEVIC
CHEF DE CUISINE, LA COCO, ANDAZ DUBAI THE PALM
What is your favorite dish on the menu?
Where do you source the ingredients from? We strive to get predominantly local ingredients to preserve the nutritional value. In order to do so we have introduced a container farm right here at Andaz Dubai The Palm. Here we grow our own produce. However, we also source top quality products from Italy and South Africa in order to provide the most delicious sensory explosion.
Photography SUPPLIED
Our Salt Dough Baked Beetroot Salad. This dish is vibrant and beautiful, the attention to detail needed to execute this makes the plating exciting and challenging.
It’s the epitome of La Coco and encompasses everything it stands for; fun and playful yet beautifully elevated. But apart from this, it also provides numerous health benefits, it is low in calories and is the perfect palate cleanser to start off a meal.
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RAHUL SAJNANI
CEO & FOUNDER OF DISHTRICT & MOSHI
What is your favourite dish on the menu? It's super tough to choose one as the Dishtrict menu is full of fusion dishes that I have created overtime and through my travels. I have a real passion for fusing flavours from various countries together, to create something unexpected and surprisingly delicious. As I can't choose one, how about the Dishtrict Volcano Maki and then the Thai Green Risotto as my favourite vegan dish on the menu.
Tell us about the dishes. We have over nine fusion maki rolls at Moshi that include flavours from Mexico, Italy and India however my personal favourite has to be the Dishtrict Volcano Maki. This roll is a fusion of Middle Eastern flavours on a shrimp base. It also incorporates spicy mayo and four types of my favourite crisps including Flamin' Hot Cheetos, Oman, Blue and Tortilla Chips making it an explosion of flavours and textures. As for the Thai Green Risotto, this is a dish I created in homage of my love for the incredible country. I have always found
it really interesting to play around with Thai herbs and who doesn't love risotto? So when experimenting, I fused these flavours together and it resulted in something mouthwateringly tasty. We predict this will be a best seller at Dishtrict for many months to come. Best of all, the standard dish is vegan and gluten free, you then have the options to add chicken or shrimp if you desire, making it suitable for pretty much everyone!
What makes it a standout dish? The Dishtrict Volcano Maki really stands out due to it being sushi with a Middle Eastern twist. It's also interesting and fun to look at with all of the chips crumbled atop, some of the flavours also lend a bit of nostalgia to people who grew up here. As for the Green Curry Risotto, it's the versatility and crowd pleasing nature. The basic offering is vegan and we have yet to meet someone who doesn’t love it.
Where do you source the ingredients from? We source our ingredients from a wide variety of countries. It is important for us to work with different suppliers from around the world depending on their origin, as we have to ensure whilst making fusion dishes, the original flavour remains untouched. Quality is always the most important factor for us, so we are always looking to connect with new suppliers and often book meetings on our travels to ensure we are sourcing the best of the best.
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TH E C HEF /
AHMED BOUNAJI
What makes it a standout dish?
Machbous Diyay (chicken)
Armed Forces Officers Club and Hotel has always been known for its Arabic/Khaleejii cuisine. I feel our preparation at Al Rimal is close to the one I have in Morocco, where I come from. I feel the same harmony and balance in the spices, the chicken's tenderness, ending with the rice that has a fantastic fluffiness, further enhanced with the use of saffron which provides that rich flavour. It's a great one-dish meal to share with everyone.
Tell us about the dish.
Where do you source the ingredients from?
Machbous is a popular Emirati Khaleeji rice dish made with either chicken or lamb. The word 'Machbous' actually means pressed in Arabic. It is a staple in most Gulf countries with slight variations from region to region.
There is no place better than the local market, and the ingredients are readily available all year round. I like to work with cage-free chicken, especially for this dish, and I use Iranian saffron, which is one of the best you can procure.
CHEF DE CUISINE, AL RIMAL RESTAURANT, ARMED FORCES OFFICERS CLUB AND HOTEL
What is your favourite dish on the menu?
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The Pro Chef Middle East / Edition 53
T HE C HEF
A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A CULINARY DIRECTOR Inside COYA Culinary Director Sanjay Dwivedi’s daily routine
7:30AM –
I have a different schedule in Dubai compared to London, starting my day with exercise. I do Bikram yoga, practiced in a room heated to 40 degrees. I’m very fortunate that I've found a yoga studio near my hotel. I've been going there three times a week and it takes me about half an hour to walk to the studio, arriving 15 minutes early. My main goal is to loosen up and prepare me for whatever the day might have in store. It leaves me feeling that I can move through the day feeling mentally and physically strong. I started doing yoga more, during the lockdown in London, and it’s become a nice way to start my morning.
my knowledge to these young chefs and see how they apply that in the kitchen.
9:00AM –
my wife a call just to see what’s been going on back home. Maybe I’ll go around the restaurant after that and speak to COYA’s guests and members. There was a member here yesterday who also came the day before, and I made some food for him. It’s nice to make people feel comfortable and special. I like to treat our guests the same way I would like to be treated when I go to a restaurant.
After yoga, I walk down to the hotel. I'll go down the pool and relax before I shower and prepare to leave. I changed my eating and drinking patterns since the lockdown. These days, I’ve been doing intermittent fasting as well. I’m only having black coffee, which is why I don’t go to cafes as I would usually do. I take my decaf espresso probably at the hotel or when I get to the restaurant and have oat milk with it. Coffee isn’t as big as it used to be with me, but I found myself sleeping better now because I don’t have much caffeine in my system.
Photographs SUPPLIED
10:30AM – I head to COYA Dubai and spend the late morning catching up with the staff to see what’s going on for the day. I don’t manage the kitchen of any of the restaurants now, because it would be difficult to manage eight kitchens across different continents at once. I’m glad to have been able to empower and pass on
12:00PM – For lunch, I sit down
with COYA’s Executive Chef in the Middle East, Chef Ben, and our Head Chef in Dubai, Chef Eric, to do a tasting of a couple of new dishes we may want to add on the menu and talk about how we can improve them. For me, the only way a chef will find out how good your food is, is by sitting down, away from the kitchen, with nobody asking you questions, and just eating the food.
2:00PM – In the afternoon, I give
4:00PM – I also like to go outside
and visit COYA’s next door neighbours and speak to their chefs about the latest industry news. I think it's always good to know what everybody else is up to. I don’t really have a strict schedule when I’m in Dubai.
5:00PM – Maybe I’ll have a meeting
with the big boss and see where we’re at and what’s happening at the restaurant. I come to Dubai only twice a year and have press opportunities and photoshoots lined up, so I take time to do these while I’m here.
6:30PM –
I'm part of the staff dinner and briefing for the evening service around this time. It’s always so energetic, it’s something we’ve done consistently at COYA every day since we opened. I don’t get as involved as much as before; I just like listening now. COYA is like my second baby, so I love seeing and hearing how it’s being looked after so well by different people. I think I’ve got the best job in the world right now to be able to just move around and see everyone doing their jobs - it just works out perfectly.
9:00PM – Depending on the mood as well, I like to go to the Bar & Lounge and try a couple of concoctions from the guys and see what’s new. My beverage consumption has been very low recently as I know I’m not getting any younger and I don’t want to overindulge.
10:30PM –
Once it’s getting late and the restaurant is slowing down slightly, I prepare to go home. I like to walk back to the hotel and listen to music. I make sure to catch up with my kids on videocall. Yesterday, I was talking to one of the twins and then today I’ll talk to the other. I don’t ask them what they did at school because kids don’t like that - I ask about their day and I tell them about mine.
12:00AM –
I check out Netflix quickly before bed, even though I don’t watch TV so much when I’m travelling. I recently finished The Last Dance on Netflix, which I think is just the best docuseries. Michael Jordan was sort of my childhood hero growing up, so to me, it was mind blowing to watch. I always have a hot shower to end the day.
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Taste of Italy
Nicknamed The Glimmer Twins by Roberto’s in-house team, Head Chefs Danilo Valla and Giovanni Cortese, bring forth cooking traditions and techniques from two distinct gastronomic cities in Italy. Find out how these chefs combine their skills to launch new concepts
How did the both of you get started in culinary? GC: I learnt to cook by myself while my parents were at work. I started to cook daily and saw that I actually liked it and developed an interest in cooking. I then went on to work at a local pizzeria, perfecting my newly acquired skills. DV: My parents operated restaurants. I grew up in the industry, so I always wanted to be a part of it. I worked behind the bar and thought that I’d be a mixologist but found that I wasn’t really attracted to service and waiting tables. I actually preferred working in the kitchen. So, I went to culinary school and that’s where my career began.
Tell us about the newly launched concepts at Roberto’s GC: I conceptualized the Italian Fish Market (fresh fish display in Roberto’s) and liaise with suppliers to always stock premium
ADVERTISING FEATURE
Where is the produce sourced from?
Danilo Valla
GC: Our produce is part sourced from Italy, like our cheeses and olive oils. Dry pasta (spaghetti, calamarata) is artisanal pasta from Napoli, Italy. Fresh fish like red prawns, rock lobster and many other kinds are also brought in from Italy (Sicily and Sardegna), alongside lemon, some fresh fruits and vegetables. DV: Here locally, we work with Italian cheese makers that produce and supply burrata. We also work with a local honey maker.
Now that we know about the new concepts, do you have any kitchen secrets? GC: Everything is homemade in Roberto’s kitchen. From pasta to bread, pesto and the pistachio ice-cream (Gelato Oro). The gelato is one of our bestsellers and a signature special at Roberto’s. If you see it elsewhere, you know where the inspiration stemmed from.
Giovanni Cortese The both of you are from completely different areas of Italy. How does this influence your cooking? GC: I’m from the south of Italy (Naples) which is heavily influenced by the region’s specialty of seafood and lemons.
products that are fresh and exquisite. For example, Blue Lobsters, Carabineros Red Prawns, Sea bream, Wild Brown Crab, Dover Sole and/or Scorpion Fish. These are served with a side dish of Italian Caponata; a Sicilian dish of chopped, fried aubergine and vegetables, seasoned with olive oil, tomato sauce, celery, olives and capers, in an agrodolce sauce. Diners can choose the cooking style of this fish, from charcoal grill to crust salt, crazy water or with pasta. DV: I recently introduced the Italian Butcher activation – a Tuesday night meatinfluenced dining experience, serving up premium cuts from Australia, Canada, Ireland and Japan. Diners can select their cut from the impressive meat display, which will then be cooked in the charcoal grill Josper oven. These premium cuts of beef, lamb and veal are available from AED250 to AED1,000.
DV: And I’m from the mountains (Alba region) where there’s a big emphasis on meat and produce such as truffles and olive oil. When we combine our skills and tastes, we are able to create unique flavours and dishes.
DV: It is definitely one of its kind in the city. The ice-cream is topped with a generous drizzle of olive oil. Our chefs discovered this technique and flavour by fault, a couple of years ago, at our former sister venue Roberto’s Abu Dhabi. The olive oils’ texture and flavour smoothen the palate it’s incredible! GC: It’s the most popular desert ever requested. It’s sought-after, Instagramworthy and talked about by diners and chefs. A total success!
Future plans for Roberto’s.
GC: Yes, the Astice alla Griglia (Chargrilled Canadian lobster, mix grilled vegetables), Branzino al Sale 420 (Oven-baked sea bass in sea salt crust) and Polpo (Slow cooked roasted octopus, artichoke, cacio e pepe sauce).
GC: Roberto’s are expanding into three new countries across the GCC in 2021, 2022 and 2023, and we’re responsible for creating the menus and execution. In October 2021, we will open Roberto’s Amman, Jordan, operated by Marriott International within their newest development, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel in Amman.
DV: My influences are noticeable in the Grilled Heritage Angus Tenderloin Chateaubriand (500g), Grilled Australian Black Wagyu Tenderloin (250g, grade 4/5), and finally, the Surf and Turf of Wagyu Tenderloin and Blue Lobster or Tiger Prawns - a perfect combination of flavour and texture between the sweet meat of the shellfish and mouthwatering sensation of the Wagyu beef.
DV: We are quite excited about this. We’re also opening Roberto’s in Qatar and Oman. The two outlets will be sited within The St. Regis Marsa Arabia Island, The Pearl in Doha, Qatar, and at The St. Regis Al Mouj Muscat in the Sultanate of Oman. Outside the GCC, we’re all set to open up our summer venue this June, in Montenegro. This will be our third season there!
Can you name a few dishes in which your influences are evident?
Rise to the top with French Cream In pastry and other branches of the culinary arts, there is no denying that cream is an essential ingredient. As a cooking element, it adds an incredible depth of flavor. European dairy cream, especially French cream, enhances the flavor of all preparations. It has an unparalleled melt in the mouth, and its softness on the palate is uniquely smoothing and comforting. No matter the level of the cooking skills, anyone can incorporate French cream to a range of dishes, from savoury to sweet.
Nina Mé taye r is a French Chef awarded twice as best pastry chef in 2016 and 2017. For her dessert, she put together a fruit-forward dish and whipped up a creamy grapefruit meringue, then completed the plate with vanilla tonka chantilly.
Creamy, tangy grapefruit meringue
ALMOND SOUFFLÉ MERINGUE 500g Egg whites
250g Almond powder
250g Confectioner’s sugar
500g Caster sugar
Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites into peaks with the caster sugar and add the sifted powders. Form pretty, smooth balls with the mixture and bake them on a baking sheet for 30 min at 160° C then dry them at 100° C. Let them cool then scratch them with a dremel.
GRAPEFRUIT AND VANILLA SORBET 630g Water
210g Sugar
1470g Grapefruit juice
108g Glucose spray
5 Vanilla pods
12g Stabilizer
Heat the water to 50° C. Add the mix of sugar, glucose spray, and stabilizer. Add the vanilla and bring to a boil. Let it cool, then mix with the grapefruit juice. Let this mixture rest for 12 hours then use an ice cream machine to create the sorbet.
GRAPEFRUIT JELLY 2100g Grapefruit juice / 200g Prepared gelatin / 3 Vanilla pods
Heat the grapefruit juice and mix in the gelatin. Spread onto a greased pan and let it set in the refrigerator for 2 hours before slicing.
TONKA VANILLA WHIPPED CREAM 5L Liquid cream
1 Tonka bean
1kg Mascarpone
3g Vanilla pod
210g Confectioner’s sugar
Grate the tonka bean and mix it with liquid cream. Let it infuse, cold, for 3 hours then strain. Combine with the sugar and mascarpone and whip it with the electric mixer.
CANDIED GRAPEFRUIT ZEST 5 Grapefruits / 500g Grapefruit juice / 500g Caster sugar
Remove the peel from the grapefruit making sure to discard all of the pith. Slice the zest into a thin julienne, blanch three times, then simmer in the syrup for around 15 min.
ASSEMBLY 30 pieces Grapefruit
Dried grapefruit zest to taste
200g Marzipan
Dried vanilla powders to taste
Use a cookie cutter to cut the grapefruit jelly into circles and place them in the center of the plate. Place a dab of marzipan on top. Stick on the meringue shell. Garnish with grapefruit sorbet. Arrange a few fresh grapefruit slices. Use a 12mm wide plain tip pastry bag to create a pretty swirl of tonka whipped cream. Decorate with dried, candied zests, fresh grapefruit segments, and dried vanilla powder...
The content of this advertorial represents the author’s point of view only and is the sole responsibility of the author. The European Commission is not responsible for any use that may be made from the information contained herein.
TH E BR AN D
MEET THE
FOUNDER
Samer Hamadeh, Founder and Creator of affordable luxury F&B brands, Akiba Dori and Stereo Arcade, discusses his early days and expansion plans across the Middle East
H
ow did you get into the culinary field?
Almost by accident. I was always in entertainment and nightlife but the idea of opening a restaurant was very far-fetched for me. So purely out of frustration with what was available in the affordable luxury market, I created Akiba Dori. I wanted a Japanese restaurant that didn’t look or act like a traditional Japanese restaurant, for people who have never been to Japan. I also wanted a place where people don’t want to, or have to, Google something on the menu before ordering it.
“ The Akiba Dori menu is expansive, and we have a lot of dishes we choose to serve in various locations, depending on what we believe the community likes ”
Describe Akiba Dori.
Where did the inspiration stem from? Although I’ve never been to Japan, I was always fascinated with the grey market electronics culture that existed in the past and I imagined a world that was filled with neon signs trying to “hide” the shady dealings happening behind the storefronts. This is pretty much how I imagined the essential concept in my mind.
How did the brand pivot in 2020? Much like everyone else we shifted to being delivery focused. We also made changes to our social media strategy for a full six weeks, shifting from Instagram posts that highlighted lifestyle elements of Akiba Dori to primarily dish/food-focused imagery, something we didn't necessarily do too much of before. In addition to this, we also began highlighting our delivery options through Instagram, so our customers would know how to enjoy their favourites during that time. This saved us during the lockdown, once this was over, our customers started coming back as soon as we reopened.
The brand is expanding to Jeddah soon. Why was Saudi Arabia your next move? It made sense for me, from a positioning perceptive, to
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test the brand out in one of the biggest F&B markets in the world; and Jeddah - before Riyadh - made more sense because it’s the second biggest city in the Kingdom. If we can take a decent market share there, our move into Riyadh will be easier in the future.
Will the menu offerings in Saudi Arabia differ? The Akiba Dori menu is expansive, and we have a lot of dishes we choose to serve in various locations, depending on what we believe the community likes. The menu in Jeddah will feature a full grill section that we don’t offer in d3 and we will not offer in Dubai. Abu Dhabi will now feature a new section that will also not be offered anywhere else. This is how we keep the brand relevant to our customers, so they don’t feel like they’re in a “franchise” when they visit Akiba Dori, rather that they’re experiencing the menu they love with new, unexplored additions always keeping things fresh.
What would you like to see more of in the UAE’s F&B scene? I would love to see more female-led F&B businesses; I think it’s crucial for our male-dominated industry to evolve, and make it more welcoming for women, not just as chefs or managers but as business owners.
Photographs SUPPLIED
Akiba Dori is a simple Japanese street food concept that also happens to make one of the best pizzas in the region.
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TH E BR AN D
THE DRIVING FORCE
Photographs SUPPLIED
Khalil Tawil, Founder of K Consultancy discusses the launch of his company and how he cracked the storytelling code for brands
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H
ow did you get into F&B Marketing?
I am originally Lebanese, so the passion is already in my blood. I graduated with a double major in Advertising and Marketing then proceeded to continue on to Paris to complete my MBA in Marketing Management of luxury goods. I’ve been in Dubai for almost 10 years and the amount of colour, life and creativity in this city is incomparable, which is why I was and still am in the F&B field. I headed the Marketing of Demind for several years, one of the leaders in the F&B field, holding a very large portfolio of highly franchised and internationally popular brands. I handled and helped create OPA, Bagatelle, Catch New York, Blue Marlin Ibiza and Burger & Lobster, to name a few. The space to be highly creative and create, providing people with a place to unwind, enjoy, food, drinks and the general atmosphere, was very satisfying. But now it’s time to do something for myself, which is why a few months ago, I decided to step up and start my own company, K Consultancy. The vision and strategy I believed and followed in my past experiences, and brands I worked on, which I can proudly share also won several awards, shed light on the fact that I had found the right formula for all of “this”. Simply put, I was doing it right.
Describe K Consultancy. From ideation and creation to the curve of a logo and a hashtag on social media, a live stream and a sentence in the media, the colour of a drink, the uniform selection, flower choice, celebrity we manage and shifting an entire restaurant concept from one country to the next in one meeting. This is a small overview of what we do at K Consultancy. A little bit of everything on a general Marketing scale creates something massive on an overall level. We have our hands in everything and add a personal touch, and even have a cheeky slogan “Solutions from K to Z”. I like to think of Team K as a collection of highly creative souls full of life, ideas and vision, and can literally bring dreams to life from one meeting or call. They embody the same spirit in all the clients and brands we work with. One of our taglines is “Let’s create” because it literally embodies what we do, and we have been doing it well before we came to K in one of the most competitive media markets in the Middle East. You can imagine the level of creativity that we bring together on a huge scale. Whether it’s for food and beverage, beauty and fashion or events and entertainment angle, we’ve tackled all verticals.
Why should F&B brands hire a consultancy firm and how will they benefit from it? You could have the most amazing concept to enter
the market, but the know-how and the intricate details to take the client down the right path could be missing. It is highly rare to enter the market or create a concept with all the information, contacts, strategy, etc. by yourself. A consultancy firm is essential for any business to set the pros and cons of a brand based on its DNA, purpose, tone of voice, and especially in addressing, triggering interest and retaining customers in a very competitive market such as Dubai’s market. Every brand is treated like it is our own, and we break it all down and tailor everything, from the brand identity to the marketing strategy. We can identify that little extra we need to inject in, to create something unbelievably unique and memorable which will cause them to stand out, otherwise, they’re just another name that operated for two to three years before shutting down or being pushed to the shadows. Another plus is K’s strong and reliable relations with the media, celebrities, socialites, influencers and other relevant people.
What should restaurateurs look for before hiring a consultancy? Ask imperative questions. Does the firm speak your language? By language, we are talking about food, experience, visions, creation, pleasure, quality, life, joy and so many other significant elements. Are they passionate or is this another project to send out an invoice? Are they real? Their reputation, what do you know about it? Are they known in the market? What about their portfolio, level of creativity, work consistency, work ethic throughout their career in the market? What vibes do you get when you sit with them? Gut instinct never lies. In a market such as the UAE’s, good and respected names are recognised and acknowledged.
What’s your secret to success? I’d like to say that if you lack that passion you need to find it, but passion doesn’t create by itself, passion comes with teamwork. One cannot do everything on his/her own, which is why connoisseurs in their respective fields such as consultants, GM’s, executive chefs, etc. will help you identify who you could be and who you are, and will highlight what is missing, which in turn contributes to a brand’s success. I’d like to happily add that I ask that you all stay tuned for a beautiful bouquet of some of the new projects K consultancy is working on: The Theater, B018.dxb, February 30, Lucia’s, Asil, SKY2.0 and more stretching across Turkey, Egypt, Qatar and KSA. We know each brand has a story to tell, and we’re here to create and tell these stories. And we promise they will move you, but you need to check them out and see how you will be moved. We promise you won’t be disappointed.
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THE RISE OF DARK KITCHENS IN THE UAE
The number of UAE food brands opting to enter the Dark Kitchen multiverse has been steadily increasing, especially over the last year. Also known as virtual kitchens, ghost kitchens, cloud kitchens or delivery-only kitchens, they all operate with the same concept in mind, albeit varying business models, selling food only through delivery systems
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Serena Botelho e Warren
TH E DISTR IBUT OR
O
ver the past year, several internationally renowned F&B concepts launched in the UAE through dark kitchens. For example, Cravia launched through Kitch, while the renowned American brand Nathan’s Famous, and Bondi Sushi, set foot in the market via Kitopi. This is just the beginning. Research from management consulting firm RedSeer, shows that the UAE online food delivery industry is expected to grow by a CAGR (Compound annual growth rate) of 23 per cent with the rising penetration of dark kitchens post COVID tailwinds. The number of dark kitchen brands and locations have also increased, with over 400 brands and over 80 locations in the UAE.
Jihad Bou Nasr Country Manager, Kitopi UAE
A LOOK INSIDE To gain further insight into dark kitchens in the UAE, we spoke to two brands – Kitopi and Kitch, each unique in their own way and operating with different business models. There could either be one brand in a single dark kitchen or across multiple dark kitchens; multiple brands in a single dark kitchen; a takeaway dark kitchen; an outsourced dark kitchen; or an aggregator-owned dark kitchen. Kitopi is a managed cloud kitchen platform that partners with restaurants to grow their business and expand their delivery reach. The brand provides delivery portals through which orders for various restaurants are received; ingredients are then sourced,
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TH E DISTR IBUT OR
Walid Hajj Co-founder and CEO, Kitch
and dishes cooked by Kitopi. Ultimately, delivered through last mile partners. Kitch on the other hand is a hybrid, deliveryfocused cloud kitchen and a storefront operator that encourages and enables food brand owners to transform, with their innovative cloud kitchen model. It comprises fully optimised and modern kitchen spaces, where orders are received online and displayed in each restaurant’s station, whose staff cook and package the food; with Kitch finally providing dispatching solutions. When asked about the recent surge in brands signing up as dark kitchens, Jihad Bou Nasr, UAE Country Manager at Kitopi, listed out several reasons. First, the number of brick-and-mortar restaurants wanting to explore the delivery-only cloud-kitchen model as a way to expand coverage and customer reach has increased. Secondly, with the ease of international travel restrictions and the comeback of global trade, international F&B concepts have begun
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“The appeal of lower overhead costs and lower risks of dark kitchens, along with the increased demand for food delivery has made this a favoured concept ” to explore cloud-based kitchens as an avenue for cross-border expansion; and finally, a wave of new “amateur” players have entered the space as a lifelong dream or side-project. Walid Hajj, Co-founder and CEO at Kitch explained how the appeal of lower overhead costs and lower risks of dark kitchens, along with the increased demand for food delivery has made this a favoured concept.
As for how dark kitchens stand out from other F&B business models, Jihad Bou Nasr states that this system is closest to the F&B franchising model, where a brand provides the cloud-kitchen operator the license to function on its behalf. However, unlike traditional F&B, the customer journey of ordering food online or through an aggregator, differs. Walid Hajj added that the advancement of industry-specific technology and the increase in delivery aggregators, along with convenience offered, are prompting dark kitchens to disrupt the F&B scene. As with every industry, there are pros and cons. The benefits in going down this road are expanded coverage and increased revenue with lower capex than a traditional model. “This would also allow brands to focus their resources and efforts on menu curation and customer acquisition. The complexity and costs of operations would be handled by a licensed third party,” says Jihad Bou Nasr. “Because of the low barriers of entry, drawbacks can appear mostly if the brand is not fully invested in making it work.” Walid Hajj further states that with limited customer interaction, dark kitchens might find it difficult to build their brand and attract a dedicated customer base at first. When asked for advice as to what brands should keep in mind before joining a dark kitchen, Jihad Bou Nasr states that the process requires significant investment in attracting customers, especially in the UAE. “If the brand is new, then it needs to consider how it will stand out from the crowd. There needs to be something unique about what it is offering customers, whether that is the food options, the quality of ingredients, the value for money, etc.” Walid Hajj also believes the product has to deliver well, have quality consistency, innovate, brand and market itself and have the ability to build a following of repeat customers. On forecasts, Jihad Bou Nasr predicts that with the continuing flow of players entering this space, it will become congested with the multitudes of offerings. Eventually, players with the least commitment will close, and those that thoroughly understand the business will remain. Interested in launching your own dark kitchen? Reach out to Kitopi at kitopiconnect.com or Kitch at kitch. cloud.
OPEN FOR DELIVERY! Two delivery-only dark kitchens
Cloud Restaurants is the brand behind successful, deliveryonly concepts such as Go! Greek, Go! Healthy and Lotsa! Crazy Cake. The company launched unique online restaurants, offering distinct cuisines, and their strategy involves operating their Cloud Restaurants in successful dark kitchens. Ziad Kamel, CEO and Rowan Kamel, Chief Brand Officer at Cloud Restaurants explain that it is a formidable challenge to create, operate and market a successful delivery-only brand. The benefits are plentiful though and restaurants can scale to new cities and countries rapidly. Emiliya Petrova Ninova, Founder, Managing Director and Creative Director at Keto By Foxxy agrees. The UAEbased one-stop destination for all things Keto states that the dark kitchen concept gave the brand flexibility when starting out, as they did not have the investment required to set up a physical store. Through kitchen partners and delivery networks, they were also able to cater to a larger audience throughout the city. Keto By Foxxy is currently looking forward to further expansion plans.
Visit Cloud Restaurants at cloudrestaurants.com and Keto by Foxxy at ketobyfoxxy.com.
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TH E SEASON
MODERN TOUCH
Homegrown culinary heroes Nick Alvis and Scott Price share two inventive recipes from their menu at the recently unveiled folly Workshop, Time Out Market Dubai
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Crispy hens egg, mushroom puree & maple syrup P
10 whole eggs 50ml olive oil 3 eggs, beaten 100g plain flour 100g panko breadcrumbs 100g freshly washed, mixed salad leaves Button mushroom puree ½ kilo button mushrooms, halved 50ml water 100g cream 50g butter 100g pancetta, finely sliced Salt Maple vinegar reduction 150ml maple syrup 100ml malt vinegar Vinaigrette 100ml pomace olive oil 20ml white vinegar
Method 1 Open eggs into a cup lined with cling film and a drop of olive oil. 2 Wrap the cling film tight to the egg, so there is no air in the film. Tie tight with string leaving 30cm extra hanging. Drop the eggs into rapid boiling water and boil the eggs for 6 ½ minutes, then shock in iced water. Remove from the cling film after 10 minutes, being extremely careful. 3 Again, very carefully roll in flour and shake off any excess. Then roll in beaten eggs (using a fork to lift the poached eggs) and then in the breadcrumbs. Keep chilled until needed. 4 Melt the butter, season and cook the mushrooms flat side down until golden and a little crispy. Add the cream and reduce until almost splitting. Add the water and cook until liquids are almost gone. Blend, season and pass. 5 Boil together the maple vinaigrette ingredients and reduce until it coats the back of a tablespoon. 6 For the vinaigrette, shake to emulsify before serving. 7 To serve, heat 1 litre of oil until it's 180 C - test with a little bread crumb to check if hot enough. On a plate, add the vinegar reduction. Using a round pastry cutter or ring, place into the centre of the plate and pipe warm mushroom puree into the middle. 8 Dress the salad with a drizzle of vinaigrette and a pinch of salt. Place salad in the cutter. 9 Deep fry the eggs until golden and remove and sprinkle with salt. Grill the pancetta until crispy, break into pieces and add to the salad. Place egg and serve immediately.
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TH E SEASON
Fish and chips with crushed peas & tartare sauce 2 x 120/150g skinless and pin boned haddock/cod/sherry fillet 100g plain flour for coating the fish Batter (To be made 1 hour in advance and chilled) 450g plain flour 10g bicarbonate of soda 40g white vinegar 650g iced water Pinch of salt Peas 400g frozen peas 30g butter 1g bicarbonate of soda
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Pinch of salt, to taste Drop of water Tartare sauce 50g red onion, finely diced 5g parsley, chopped 15g capers, chopped 50g gherkin, finely diced 150g beurre blanc The chips 1 kilo Maris Piper or netted potatoes Sea salt (optional) Malt vinegar (optional) 2l vegetable oil for deep frying
The Pro Chef Middle East / Edition 53
Method 1 Weigh the salt, flour and add the soda on top, pouring the vinegar onto the soda to react. Add a little water first and whisk, then add more water gradually until desired consistency. Chill and rest for at least 1 hour. 2 Melt the butter and when it starts to foam add the peas, then salt and add the soda. Stir and crush as soon as possible, adding a drop of water if seeming a little dry - not always necessary. Taste and then chill on a tray, cooling as quickly as possible to retain the green colour. 3 Mix all the tartare sauce ingredients and set aside. 4 To make the chips, allow a good amount of time for this process, or it can be made in stages starting the previous day. Cut potatoes to the desired size, wash for a few minutes and place in a saucepan of lightly salted water. Bring to the boil and simmer until edges just start to break. Gently strain and chill on a tray. Pre-heat enough vegetable oil to 130 C (lightly bubbling) in a pan deep enough to hold your chips, then in 2 batches fry the chips, until you get a bubbly crust on the outside. Remove gently and chill. 5 To serve, heat the oil back up to 180/190 C. Warm the peas in a small saucepan at the same time. 6 Lightly coat the fish in flour, whisk the batter (to make sure it's properly mixed) and dip the fish (shaking off excess batter). Hold the battered fish in the oil one piece at a time for 5-10 seconds, until the fish starts to float. Then carefully let go (or it will just drop straight to the bottom and stick). Repeat the process for all the fish and when golden, add the chips back into the oil and crisp up the fish with the chips. 7 Meanwhile, place the peas on to the plate. Carefully place the fish and chips onto a tray and season immediately while the chips are still glistening with oil, so the salt sticks. Sprinkle with vinegar or a squeeze of lemon and serve.
T HE SEASON
Photographs SUPPLIED
ISLAND FLAVOURS Andrei Palm, Chef de Cuisine at Shimizu, Waldorf Astoria Maldives most recently held the position of Sous Chef at Nobu South Africa, where he learned the art of Japanese cooking. Known for marrying sweet and spicy notes, Chef Andrei’s dishes reflect his belief that simplicity is the ultimate in sophistication, and perfection is a lot of little things done well. Here he shares his signature mocktail and seared scallops as an example of his stunning creations
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TH E SEASON
Amai Sekushi 250ml fresh watermelon juice 10ml lime juice 30ml homemade basil and jasmine syrup For the jasmine basil syrup 500g caster sugar 10 basil leaves 300ml hot water 5 jasmine tea bags (suggested Mariage Freres, each satchel is 2.5g)
Method 1 Place all the syrup ingredients in a bowl and steep for 2 hours. Remove the tea bags and blend until it thickens into syrup. 2 Shake all ingredients together with ice cubes and garnish with watermelon skewers and fresh basil leaves.
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Shimizu Seared Hokkaido Scallop with Jalapeno Miso Glaze 12 tbsp fresh or frozen peas 3-4 cubes unsalted butter 40ml cream 3 pinches of salt 20-25 Hokkaido scallops Jalapeno miso glaze 1l water 50g bonito flakes 10g dry kombu 1.5kg white miso paste
1.5kg sugar 500g honey Beetroot pickle 5 fresh baby beetroots, peeled and sliced on a mandolin 500ml rice wine vinegar 500ml water 300g sugar
Method 1 Place peas into rapid boiling water for 3-5 mins. Strain and place into ice-cold water (helps maintain the green colour). Blend until fine to make a puree. Strain through a fine strainer and place in a saucepan. Simmer over low heat and add the butter, cream and salt to taste. 2 Our jalapeno miso glaze is made with a Dashi base made from scratch, which is water, bonito flakes and dry kombu. Mix the white miso paste with sugar and honey. Once mixed, combine with the dashi base and bring to a boil. Turn off and whisk while it’s coming to a boil - maintain eye contact. For every 500g of sweet miso sauce, add 100g fresh sliced jalapeno. For best results, let baste overnight. 3 Season the scallops with salt and pepper and pan sear each side for about 3 mins on each side. Cover the scallops with the miso glaze. 4 Finish under the broiler on high heat until caramelization of the sauce takes place around 2 to 3 minutes but maintain eye contact to avoid burning. 5 Season the pickles with salt for 20 mins, then rinse off the salt. To make the pickling liquid, combine the rice wine vinegar, water and sugar. Add beetroot to the liquid and for best results, leave to pickle overnight. Garnish with shiso microgreens.
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O N THE PASS / S W EET EN D I N G
AROUND THE WORLD
Here’s what celebrity chefs and restaurateurs are up to
NEW YORK
LONDON Phil Howard launches a pasta delivery company The Michelin-starred chef and chef-patron of Chelsea restaurant, Elystan Street is launching a delivery service named OTTO. The seasonal menu will feature eight dishes including ravioli with sprouting broccoli, nettle, ricotta and herbs, rigatoni with slow-cooked aged beef, short cut bucatini with spring vegetable and almond Bolognese, and plenty more featuring local produce.
Eleven Madison Park goes meatless Michelin-starred chef Daniel Humm is all set to re-open his fine-dining restaurant this June. Except for this time, diners will be served a meat-free menu. The chef and owner posted a message on the fine dining restaurants’ website, saying the modern food system was “simply not sustainable”. The restaurant, which was closed for 15 months, was once known for its meat-centric dishes including a stunning honey-lavender roast duck, however, the chef will now serve a plant-based menu with every dish made from vegetables, both from the earth and sea, as well as fruits, legumes, grains and fungi.
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INDIA Sanjeev Kapoor to provide meals for healthcare workers Celebrity chef Sanjeev Kapoor has joined forces with World Central Kitchen, a non-profit organisation, and Taj Hotels, to provide meals such as vegetable makhanwala with pulao or coriander rice, amongst other dishes, to frontline healthcare workers at Cooper Hospital and Sion Hospital in Mumbai. The chef will be expanding to Ahmedabad soon, followed by Delhi.
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