MIDDLE EAST ISSUE 33 NOVEMBER 2014
CIAO BABY! | COMING TOGETHER - OUR CONFERENCE AND AWARDS | SWISS MISSED 0 PRO CHEF - NOV 2014.indd 1
11/18/14 11:54 AM
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Contents
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UP FRONT
FEATURES
CHEFS
LEISURE
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EDITORIAL A major new initiative by ICCA, Emirates Culinary Guild and WACS will see financial support for young chefs want to get qualified and move on in their chosen profession.
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THE PRO CHEF ME CONFERENCE Key topics facing the F&B sector were debated and discussed by high level keynote speakers and panellists last month in Dubai.
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EDITORIAL BOARD Our industry colleagues who help guide The Pro Chef ME.
TRAVEL Zurich may be a rich city but its fine dining scene has lagged behind most other major European cities. Chef Heiko Nieder from The Dolder Grand aims to change that and he’s started with a successful international food festival, The Epicure.
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OUT AND ABOUT The second Dubai World Hospitality Championship highlighted the success of getting traditional recipes out to a wider audience, plus we report on the Nourish chefs’ ball for breast cancer awareness and a special bravura Badoit dinner performance by Chef Izu Ani from La Serre.
RECIPE CORNER A selection of globetrekking recipes - California Chinese from Chop Suey, Yemeni from Grand Millenium and award-winning high tea specials from Radisson Blu Dubai Deira Creek.
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THE PRO CHEF ME FINE DINING AWARDS All the winners! All the fun of the gala dinner! All the top faces in the industry! We report on our second fine dining awards.
FACE TO FACE Celebrated German Chef Oliver Helwig is reinventing Italian cuisine, Executive Chef from Al Badia Golf Club Scott Stokes talks about the impact of breast cancer on his family and on the wider community of chefs and Nirmal Sethia is working hard to bring back proper tea culture.
THE LAST WORD Another set of culinary awards have been announced, this time by French firm Merci Chef! The awards are split in two: one contest for professionals and another for consumers in the UAE.
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November 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East
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UP FRONT / editor’s letter
A major opportunity Closely following the second Dubai World Hospitality Championship, which has as one of its key objectives, the development of home cooks into small businesses, comes major news from ICCA Dubai - a one million dirham culinary scholarship award. This will provide funding for 30 young chefs, who despite the talent, currently face financial hardships in training for the profession. ICCA Dubai has entered into strategic partnership with the Emirates Culinary Guild, World Chefs (World Association of Chefs Societies) and City & Guilds London. All candidates will go through the intensive ICCA Dubai International Chef Training Program, a City & Guilds London, accredited IVQ Level 2 Qualification, along with other industry skills proficiency training, through a year long day release programme. As the ECG’s President, Uwe Micheel explained to me: “We’ve contacted many of the leading chefs across the UAE who have volunteered to help with the training in their own restaurants. They see the value in the programme and are keen to pass on their skills and knowledge.” As well as Chef Micheel, a selection panel has been formed with Chef Andy Cuthbert, Chairman ECG and Young Chefs Development Team for WACS, Chef Alan Pedge, Vice President ECG Abu Dhabi and Sunjeh Raja, Director and CEO, ICCA Dubai. They will select candidates based on a set criterion and graduates will be eligible for WACS Certified Professional Cook, under the World Chefs Global Certification Scheme. The whole scheme is set against the background of the approaching Expo 2020, which will drive a massive growth in the UAE’s tourism and hospitality sector with an expected 25 million visitiors.will experience massive growth, with an influx of 139 new establishments, including 91 hotels and 48 hotel apartments to cater to the 25 million expected visitors. According to Chef Andy Cuthbert, “The entire programme is designed to share knowledge, experience, expertise and capabilities to develop a sustainable workforce and strive for excellence through innovation, developing a socially inclusive working environment for the longterm. It is a tangible step in bridging skill gaps across the industry.” The guest lecturers will include Gary Rhodes, Christian Gradnitzer, Sacha Treimer (Atlantis the Palm), Terry Styles, Michael Kitts, Sebastian Nohse, Osama El Sayed, Harald Oberander, Bobby Thulasi , Michael Wunsch, Tarek Ibrahim, Emiliano Bernsconi and Roger Frei.
CHAIRMAN AND FOUNDER DOMINIC DE SOUSA CEO NADEEM HOOD COO GINA O’HARA ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER DAVE REEDER dave@cpidubai.com M: +971 55 105 3773 GROUP DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL PAUL GODFREY GROUP MANAGING EDITOR MELANIE MINGAS melanie.mingas@cpimediagroup.com M: +971 56 758 7834 EDITOR DAVE REEDER SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION CHRIS HOWLETT PHOTOGRAPHER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION ANAS CHERUR GROUP DIRECTOR OF SALES CAROL OWEN carol.owen@cpimediagroup.com M: +971 055 880 3817 PRODUCTION MANAGER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION JAMES THARIAN WEB DEVELOPER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION LOUIE ALMA DISTRIBUTION MANAGER ROCHELLE ALMEIDA SUBSCRIPTIONS www.cpievents.net/mag/magazine.php PRINTED BY Printwell Printing Press LLC, Dubai, UAE PUBLISHED BY
Head Office, PO Box 13700, Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 440 9100 Fax: +971 4 447 2409 A publication licensed by IMPZ © Copyright 2014 CPI, All rights reserved. While the publishers have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information in this magazine, they will not be held responsible for any errors therein.
UP FRONT / editorial board
Meet the board The Pro Chef Middle East is keen to serve its readership by addressing those areas of key interest, To help that task, we have invited a number of respected and experienced members of the F&B world to form an editorial board to help guide us into the future.
BOBBY KRISHNA TM Principal Food Studies and Surveys Officer Food Control Department Dubai Municipality Indian-born Bobby Krishna brings a real passion to his job enforcing food hygiene and safety regulations to the F&B sector in Dubai.
MARC GICQUEL Regional Director of Food & Beverage, Arabian Peninsula Hilton Worldwide Born and educated in France, Marc Gicguel has wide experience of different parts of the F&B sector, from Disneyland Resort Paris to Jumeirah Restaurants and Nestle Professional before joining Hilton Worldwide.
CHRISTIAN GRADNITZER Corporate Director Culinary Jumeirah Group Austrian-born Christian Gradnitzer moved a couple of years back from kitchens to management and is now a key element in Jumeirah RnB’s plan to establish Jumeirah Group as a leading operator of successful restaurants and bars globally.
MICHAEL KITTS Director of Culinary Arts and Executive Chef The Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management UK chef Michael Kitts’ career has combined distinguished work in kitchens, global competition success and a major focus on mentoring younger chefs, all of which make his currenty job an ideal fit.
UWE MICHEEL Director of Kitchens, Radisson Blu Dubai Deira Creek President, Emirates Culinary Guild German chef Uwe Micheel is a highly visible member of the regional F&B scene with two decades of experience in the Gulf and a key role in driving the success of UAE-based chefs at culinary competitions worldwide.
MARK PATTEN Senior Vice President, Food & Beverage Atlantis, The Palm Dubai In place at Atlantis since pre-opening in 2007, Australian native Mark Patten has had a highly successful and celebrated career across the world. He now oversees more than 400 chefs and numerous outlets at the resort.
SAMANTHA WOOD FooDiva A distinguished ex-Hilton PR executive, British-Cypriot Samantha Wood now combines food journalism, hospitality consulting and the highly acclaimed FooDiva food blog.
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
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UP FRONT / out and about
The spirit of hospitality With five competitions International Competition, Emirati Competition, Gulf Products Competition, Hospitality Sector Competition and Gulf Exhibition - the second Dubai World Hospitality Championship highlit the best creations from local and international cuisine.
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
Organised by Za'abeel Palace Hospitality in cooperation with the Government of Dubai and The Emirates Culinary Guild, the second Dubai World Hospitality Championship offered a real opportunity to showcase Emirati food and culture, as well as providing Dubai as a stage for the world’s culinary talent to compete. According to HE Ahmed bin Hareb, President of DWHC: "The number of participants in the second cycle of the Championship witnessed a remarkable growth which exceeded our expectations. The 2014 cycle of the Championship will attract 3,385 participants compared to the previous cycle. After a series of evaluations, 2,588 participants have been qualified to compete in the championship, which reflects the success of DWHC and its increased reputation in the Gulf and Arab societies. Increasing the categories in the Hospitality Sector Competition from last year’s 14 to 21 has doubled the challenge for the participating chefs. The contestants will have to qualify based on various judging criteria and regulations such as taste, method of preparation, course of time elapsed, quantity of food, presentation, cleanliness, color, smell and consistency." Ahmed Sharif, Vice President of DWHC, added: "The International Competition is one of the main highlights of the second cycle of DWHC. It attracts wide participation from the GCC and
Arab countries, as it features a wide range of hospitality and culinary contests and activities. The competition will highlight the rich culture and authentic heritage of the GCC and the UAE. The event aims at spreading knowledge of UAE's culinary traditions and Gulf hospitality and maintaining and passing them on to the next generations." DWHC is seen as playing a vital role in maintaining the rich heritage and traditional culinary arts and promoting handmade products, shedding light on the authenticity of the UAE's heritage and culture and the warm hospitality of its people. Sharif added: "The Championship is a global platform that aims at highlighting the top Emirati young talents and showcasing their achievements and creation in hospitality and culinary arts." 338 participants exhibited in the Gulf Exhibition for Homemade Products for oud and perfume products; for Gulf Competition Products there were 168 food innovations and 141 hospitality utensils and accessories; plus a total of 250 professional and amateur competitors.. Saeed Al Jabri, Administrator of Gulf Products Competition, DWHC, described the event as a strategic forum for the global hospitality segment that looks towards discussing key issues, exchanging information and highlighting the talent of the industry. "These
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UP FRONT / out and about
categories will be highlighting the innovation skills and the utensils to be used in making their creations. The category has been designed to encourage users to showcase their products with the DWHC supporting the development of their creations. Meanwhile, the food innovation category introduces the audience to the skills of the participating chefs and adds experience in their creation of both local and international recipes." Emirati cuisine reflects the rich cultural diversity of the UAE, with unique and diverse culinary tastes as a result of trade, helping it becoming a hub in the field of hospitality and culinary arts. Amna Al Dhaheri, Manager of the Emirati Competition, said:
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
“The Emirati Competition provided an opportunity for professional chefs and amateurs alike to showcase their skills to the international stage. A total of 250 professional and amateur competitors chose from pre-selected traditional dishes." This category provides Emirati chefs a platform to showcase their experience and creative skills in the culinary field. Under it, competitors are required to prepare traditional meals and sweets from the pre-selected list. Their food creations must reflect authentic Emirati tastes. Meanwhile, the International Competition provided a platform for challengers to prepare traditional dishes before a big crowd as Arab and Gulf chefs prepared traditional Arabic dishes. "I am very privileged to participate in the championship as it promotes the Emirati cuisine culture," said Emirati Chef Mohammed Orfali. Celebrity Lebanese Chef Joe Barza said: "Dubai is a global destination that attracts celebrities and leaders in all fields. It has been considered as the first tourist hub in the Middle East and this has motivated me to participate in the competition and capitalise on its popularity. For the competition, I prepared Palestinian and Lebanese dishes such as Maftoul with tomato and Chicken with salvia." Chef Muna Abu Al Hasan from Bahrain, who participated in the Championship for the first time, said: "It is a great opportunity to represent Bahrain and show off my culinary skills in front of
an international audience. I showcased Bahraini traditional dishes and sweets in an innovative and unique way. DWHC is an ideal platform for us as it encourages chefs to compete alongside the best in the world." Kuwaiti folk singer Suleiman Al Qassar was also one of event's challengers this year. Al Qassar said: "Although I am not a professional chef, I love cooking and it has become my hobby. I participated in the championship to be exposed to other talented cooks. I prepared traditional Kuwaiti dishes, and I am very happy to come to Dubai, a city that continues to impress the world by hosting distinct and unique global events." Chef Ali Al Ali from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia said: "DWHC gives me an opportunity to showcase my skills to a wider audience. For the food innovation, I presented an extensive range of Saudi traditional dishes nut with a contemporary and modern touch." Qatari chef Aisha Al Tamimi said: "DWHC is an important event to promote Arab region's hospitality sector. This is my first time to participate in the event. My aim was to cook Qatari and international dishes." The International Competition celebrated the Emirati, Gulf and Arab heritage with the participation of 12 teams from the UAE, Kingdom of Bahrain, Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Syria, Palestine, Egypt, Jordan, Lebanon, Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco,” explained Majid Al
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out and about / UP FRONT
DRIVING DWHC FORWARD Before the second Dubai World Hospitality Championship, we sat with HE Ahmed Mohammed bin Hareb Al Falahi, GM of Za’abeel Palace Hospitality and President of Dubai World Hospitality Championship, to discover what has been achieved since the inaugural event in terms of spreading knowledge of and interest in Emirati cuisine. What do you think the summit has achieved for the Emirates since last year? What do you see as the wider influence on Emirati hospitality? We have gained a lot. Firstly, the participation was 11,000 on the event over three days so, mainly out of this, 90% was local. These local entrants like a competition between Emirates and now we see that Emirati women are coming out of their homes to compete and they participate in any event we propose for them that is concerned with local products and hospitality. Now it is respected that there is a guideline for them to follow as well as the rules and regulations of any event coming to them. Many people are buying their products, also.
Marri, Director of International Competition and Hospitality Sector Competition at DWHC. Yusuf Akiki, Manager, Lebanese Team, said: "We are honoured we participated in this leading event in Dubai, which continues to prove itself as a pioneer in the hospitality industry. We presented traditional Lebanese dishes in a new and innovative style." And Jamal Hammash, Manager, Palestinian Team, said, "We thank the organising committee of DWHC for inviting us to take part in this international event and for supporting our team. It is a great honour for us to represent Palestine worldwide and this event gave us the opportunity to gain new expertise." Maher Ibrahim, Manager of Saudi Arabia Team, was pleased to come to Dubai to represent Saudi Arabia: "We delivered well-known traditional Saudi dishes in fusion style, in addition to a variety of Saudi desserts presented in an innovative way with the hope to receive positive feedback and win the title." Meanwhile, the Heritage Village added 53 new traditional crafts as part of the many activities and programmes designed to highlight authentic Emirati hospitality. during the exciting threeday competition. Alia Rasheed Al Shanqeeti, EventsManager and Director, Heritage Village, DWHC, explained: "The Heritage Village involved 710 participants, including 130 participants within the traditional crafts category and 40 children took part in workshops and events for children"
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One of the things we talked about last year is that in order for some of these women to start businesses, they would have problems using their home kitchens because of the scale of the operation and the hygiene regulations. There was talk of having central neighbourhood kitchens that could be used. How have those plans moved on? Working with the Sheikh Khalifa Fund, they are coming to support this family initiative, plus Sheikh Hamdan also has funds to support the families both financially and in terms of business guidelines and also in building their own kitchens and shops outside of their homes. The Municipality checks on the hygiene of the premises - it has already begun. We had the first businesses established in November 2013 and now we are trying to increase the participation and make it known that it isn't just for the Championship, but all year round. Now we are also being approached by hotels from around the Emirates who want these women to cook Emirati cuisine for the hotels. When international chefs based here are asked what they are doing in terms of Emirati food, what is curious is how little many know about it. They know it exists but they don't know what it tastes like. There is a lack of communication between any society but this year for the Championship we are engaging more with the hotels. This year we are bringing 700 chefs from around the Emirates and they have to do 20 items, but one of those items has to be Emirati and it will be in the hotels
later on. Secondly, hotels are asking us to get the women to cook four items per day on their menus. This is where the Emirati food is going to be in the hotel. The Championship has created both this extra dynamic in the hotel dining as well as additional income for the women. If we talk again in a year's time, do you expect more local women to be cooking and consulting in such a way? It's not only the Championship, but somebody else has to be between us and the women who cook Emirati dishes. We can teach them about the rules and regulations of catering and we can support them by providing ingredients, but the other stages have to be supported through other associations such as the Emirates Culinary Guild, for example. This has to be supported beyond Za'abeel Palace Hospitality. Wouldn’t it be game changing to have Emirati food available at the airports for visitors and tourists? You cannot find it at any restaurant and the GCC visitors who come to Dubai, especially the Saudi Arabian guests, are looking around for people to provide the food. Now we are going to have Emirati women working closer with the hotels, we are going to incorporate these dishes both in the restaurants and buffets and they will have their own restaurants too. We will encourage these women through providing facilities and funds. Another part of our plan is to introduce the Arabic masala and this coffee will be in the hotels, made and served by Emiratis. We have contacted all the hotels and many are willing to have an Emirati woman serving this under our rules and regulations - for example they have to be covered, have a place to pray and also have good salaries. We have spoken about the individual competitors, looking now at the take up of food in commercial premises, we spoke at great length last year about the integration of Emirati dishes on more menus. How is that progressing? We are really progressing and we have visited all the Emirates and explained the benefits both culturally and financially and explained that this will add value to their operations. We find that they are encouraged to sign and deal with this contract from hotels. Many of those who have been with us since last year have already opened their own businesses even without our support, which is very good. Around 20% of the entries last year have opened their own business. Also, those who participated last year are not permitted to compete this year. We are encouraging new people to join.
November 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East
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UP FRONT / out and about
In the pink The Pink Brigade Initiative, championed by Al Badia Golf Club's Executive Chef Robbie Stokes, reached a climax at the end of last month with many of the chefs who have bought pink embroidered Bragard chef jackets coming together at Al Badia for lunch and a major photo session. Will you join them again next October? As we learn in this issue's interview with Chef Robbie Stokes, reaction the the initiative by UAE chefs and families far exceeded his expectations. In fact, the projected total sale was snapped up in his ďŹ rst meeting to discuss the idea with Emirates Culinary Guild President Uwe Micheel. Stokes is conďŹ dent that next year's appeal will be even larger - this time around, a few jackets were sold to Australia and the US but there a major discussion underway with a 9,000 body of UK chefs! We're certain too that this year's purchasers will be back again for more!
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
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UP FRONT / out and about
The sparkling chef Well known French sparkling natural mineral water brand Badoit partnered a few months back with restaurateur and chef Izu Ani, naming him as the brand ambassador in the UAE. A special meal in partnership with Restonaut was the start of a regular series, highlighting the importance of complementing fine dining meals with Badoit.
Born in Nigeria and lived in London, Paris, Spain and Dubai, Chef Izu Ani is well known as first the man in the kitchen at La Petite Maison and now in charge of La Serre Bistro & Boulangerie. Now the brand ambassador for Badoit, he showcased his talents recently in the first of a series of special dinners arranged by Restronaut, with Badoit as the official water sponsor. The Badoit Dinners are designed to show how the water partners and complements fine dining food, combining product, location and technique to create a truly gourmet experience. Designed as a three course meal, Chef Ani surprised the guests with a constant flow of dishes and spoke with enthusiasm how he is using Badoit in his cooking, as well as demonstrating a number of Peruvian products sourced after his recent trip there. A great evening!
MENU Infusion de Badoit au citron Socca nicoise Tarte flambe Ceviche de daurade 'La Serre' Maquereaux en marinade Crabe royale de Norvège et cassava Tomate de montagne, fromage de chèvre, noisette et piment Travers de boeuf cuit 50 heures et citrouille Turbot entier en croute de sel Oriellettes et broccoli Coctelettes d'agneau marinèes aux èpices Risotto à la truffe blanche et crevettes Aero, chocolat orange Sorbet a la rose et framboise Fondant au caramel, glace à l'orange exotique Tarte au framboise et thè
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
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conference / FEATURES
The industry speaks The first Pro Chef ME Conference took place at Conrad Dubai on October 28th, with two major keynotes and six panels full of leading chefs and others debating the key issues of the industry, including the rise of homegrown concepts, the challenge of good casual dining, the future for pastry chefs, the challenges of staff training, eating and cooking locally and sourcing challenges for menu development.
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s the leading magazine for fine dining F&B professionals in the region, The Pro Chef ME has an unrivalled reputation for being the industry's magazine, with Executive Chefs and Chefs de Cuisine queuing up to be featured in its pages. Its understanding of the fine dining F&B sector as well as the authority and experience of its editorial team mean that the content and discussions at The Pro Chef ME Conference 2014 were at the highest level with senior industry professionals taking the opportunity to share their knowledge and experience.
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November 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East
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FEATURES / conference
KEYNOTE FROM LONDON TO DUBAI: CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIES Chef Darren Velvick, Chef/Patron, table 9 by Darren Velvick Key takeaway: Building on the legacy left by Nick Alvis and Scott Price has been challenging but a great personal journey he wouldn’t have missed, with early training under Ramsay and Wareing proving invaluable.
PANEL Celebrity outlets versus homegrown concepts Richard Cowling, Operations Manager, Nakheel Hospitality; Chef Paul Lupton, Head Chef, Asia de Cuba; Chef Colin Clague, Executive Chef, Qbara; David Wright, MD, Ghaf Kitchen; Chef Darren Velvick, Chef/Patron, table 9 by Darren Velvick. Key takeaway: Celebrity chefs may still be viewing the UAE as a profit centre but the trend is clearly towards locally developed concepts, although lack of finance makes it hard for younger chefs to be as experimental.
PANEL The future for the pastry chef? Chef Thomas Pendarovski, Executive Chef, The St Regis Abu Dhabi; Chef Liz Stevenson, Executive Pastry Chef, Qbara; Herwig Knapen, Executive Pastry Chef, JW Marriott Marquis Dubai; Paul Hayward, ‚ÄéResort Executive Pastry Chef, The Madinat Jumeirah. Key takeaway: As healthy eating trends gain traction, people still want to treat themselves to desserts, so pastry chefs need to change the content of their offerings without losing the wow factor.
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
PANEL Does casual dining mean the end to fine dining? Chef Chris Lester, Group Executive Chef, The Restaurant Group, Jumeirah Group; Etienne Haro, Director of F&B, Fairmont Dubai; Chef Francesco Guarracino, Executive Chef, BiCE Mare Dubai; Chef Roberto Segura Gonzales, Head Chef, The Act, Shangri-La Hotel; Chef Tomas Reger, Personal Chef and Consultant. Key takeaway: Dining habits are changing but ‘casual dining’ is a confusing term when quality is still critical to many diners.
PANEL Meeting the training challenges Chef Uwe Micheel, Director of Kitchens, Radisson Blu Dubai Deira Creek and President, Emirates Culinary Guild; Marianne Saulwick, Industry Liason Officer, The Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management; Willi Elsener; MD, Bespoke Concepts. Chaired by Melanie Mingas, Editor, Hospitality Business Middle East. Key takeaway: Finding, training and retaining staff will not get any easier as the hospitality sector booms.
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conference / FEATURES
KEYNOTE HYGIENE UPDATE Bobby Thulasi, Chief Food Control Officer, Dubai Municipality. Key takeaway: You need a more holistic view of food safety as two recent major outbreaks show how critical temperature control and early reporting are.
PANEL Hygiene matters Chef Michel Jost, Executive Chef, Yas Viceroy; Bobby Thulasi, Chief Food Control Officer, Dubai Municipality; Ghida Sarieddine, Quality and Hygiene Manager, Royal Catering; Chef Uwe Micheel, Director of Kitchens, Radisson Blu Dubai Deira Creek and President, Emirates Culinary Guild.
PANEL Sourcing and menu development Chef Jean van der Westhuizen, Executive Chef, UFS; Chef Claudio Melis, Italian Executive Chef, Alta Badia, Jumeirah Emirates Towers; Chef Paul Lupton, Head Chef, Cuba
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UP FRONT / Pro chef awards
And the winner is... The second annual Pro Chef ME Fine Dining Awards took place on the evening of our ďŹ rst Conferemce, at the Conrad Dubai. Suppliers, chefs and other F&B professionals were honoured in an evening where the banqueting room had to be hastily enlarged to cope with the crowds thronging to a part of this special evening!
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ith entertainment from CPI Media Group's Chairman Dominic de Sousa and splendid meal prepared by the Conrad Dubai's Executive Chef Terry Styles and Banqueting Chef de Cuisine Patrick Lanteigne, the Pro Chef ME Fine Dining Awards were a true recognition of the best in the industry. The process to these awards began in the summer when we asked the industry to nominate companies and individuals in each category. Internally, we checked the nominations, excluding those from people outside the F&B industry and those 'clever' people who decided to nominate themselves multiple times! It didn't work! Next, the top three nominees in each category were
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
voted on and, again, the votes monitored to ensure fairness. So we can say with conďŹ dence that The Pro Chef ME awards are from the industry to the industry. The evening began by a heartfelt update by Robbie Stokes, Executive Chef of Al Badia Golf Club, who organised the Pink Brigade initiative in support of his wife Claire who is battling breast cancer. As you can read in this issue, the initiative brought together chefs across the UAE. The awards were presented by CPI Media's Group COO, Gina O'Hara, ending with two special awards from Editor Dave Reeder. Unlike the rest of the awards, these were not based on nominations and votes from the industry, but are awarded for
special contributions to the F&B world. Firstly, a Food Ambassador Award went to FooDiva - an award-winning blogger, journalist, reviewer, broadcaster and food consultant whose work is always knowledgeable and informative. And, to cap the evening, a special Chefs' Chef award to Colin Clague, who has opened three of Dubai's iconic and successful restaurants: The Ivy Dubai, Zuma Dubai and Qbara. Our congratulations to all the winners. The quality of talent on display in the nominations and awards is quite stunning and demonstrates without question that Dubai is now a world class food city. We can't wait for next year!
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Pro chef awards / UP FRONT
Best Kitchen Equipment
Best Kitchen Tool
Best Knives
BRADLEY SMOKERS
POLYSCIENCE SOUS VIDE
FISCHER BARGOIN
PROFESSIONAL
AWARDS 2014 BEST KITCHEN EQUIPMENT 2014 BRADLEY SMOKERS
Best Kitchen Innovation
Best Tableware
Best Bar Equipment
KREBBS MULTISPRAY
RAK PORCELAIN
OMEGA JUICERS
AWARDS 2014 BEST BAR EQUIPMENT 2014 OMEGA JUICERS
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November 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East
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UP FRONT / Pro chef awards
Best Coffee Machine
Best Coffee
Best Kitchen Consultant
ILLY
ILLY
MCTS
Restaurant Manager of the Year
Restaurant of the Year
Sommelier of the Year
HUGO SANALITRO
TABLE 9 BY DARREN VELVICK
OLIVIER GASSELIN
REFLETS PAR PIERRE GAGNAIRE
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
HAKKASAN DUBAI
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Pro chef awards / UP FRONT
Service Champion of the Year
Marketing Champion of the Year
Hygiene Champion of the Year
SASCHA TRIEMER
BRINDA HORA
BOBBY THULASI
ATLANTIS THE PALM
INTERCONTINENTAL DFC
DUBAI MUNICIPALITY
Training Champion of the Year
Industry Champion of the Year.
Junior Chef of the Year
SUNJEH RAJA
CHRISTIAN GRADNITZER
DINESH MADAM
ICCA
JUMEIRAH TRG
RIVINGTON GRILL
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November 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East
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UP FRONT / Pro chef awards
Pastry Chef of the Year
Seafood Chef of the Year
Meat Chef of the Year
LIZ STEVENSON
SCOTT STOKES
LIJ HERON
QBARA
RIVINGTON GRILL
LEXINGTON GRILL
Sustainability Champion of the Year
Innovation Chef of the Year
Executive Chef of the Year
NICOLAS SMALBERGER
SILVENA ROWE
REIF OTHMAN
JA RESORTS & HOTELS
OMNIA GOURMET
ZUMA
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
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Pro chef awards / UP FRONT
Pro Chef of the Year
Food Ambassador 2014
Chefs' Chef 2014
IZU ANI
FOODIVA
COLIN CLAGUE
LA SERRE (not there in person)
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QBARA
November 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East
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UP FRONT / Pro chef awards
A thank you to all our sponsors… Platinum sponsor
Silver sponsor
Preferred meat supplier
Preferred coffee supplier
Best tableware sponsor
GENERAL TRADING (LLC)
Category sponsor
Official beverage sponsor
Category sponsor
Category sponsor
Official water sponsor
Supporting sponsor
Official juice sponsor
Supporting sponsor
Official chocolate sponsor
Supporting sponsor
®
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
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FEATURES / product focus
From Italy to the UAE Italfood was founded in 1955 as Casearia Romano in the beautiful town of Lettere which is located in the southern part of the Gulf of Naples. The company has a rich history in supplying fresh mozzarella cheese in Italy for more than 50 years, using the skills of a new generation of artisan cheese makers. It relocated to the UAE in 2010.
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talfood has invested the main part of its capital in Italian high technology machines, in order to provide clients real Italian mozzarella cheese using milk from UAE milk farms. Its goal is to produce cheese according to Italian culture and technology, using fresh local milk to provide clients with healthy and high quality cheeses without any preservatives. Production takes place every day in order to dispatch the products to the market within 48 hours of making it. It serves a number of 5-star hotels in Dubai,
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
Abu Dhabi and the wider GCC, as well as having a special line of products for retail. Future plans include increasing production capacity, in order to export to all the Middle East. We spoke to owner Laura Clerici about the business What is your USP as a supplier? We deliver our freshly made Italian cheese to 5-star hotel groups, pizza chains, cafés and restaurants all over UAE on a daily basis. You can also find
our range of products at your nearest Spinney's and Geant hypermarkets. Our USP is our passion to create Italian mozzarella cheese using only the fresh ingredients without any preservatives. Are the weather conditions here a challenge in manufacturing and distributing cheese? We are an ISO 22000 certified company and we follow the most stringent food production and delivery standards. We have temperature controlled vehicles which deliver our products right
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product focus / FEATURES
“We have temperature controlled vehicles which deliver our products right at our customers’ doorsteps. So right from the time when the raw materials arrive at our factory till the time our cheese is delivered to our customers, the cold chain is never broken.” as the food manufacturing industry will greatly benefit and hope to see a substantial increase in revenues. How will you expand your operations to markets outside the UAE? Business opportunities in the UAE and the regional markets are of huge proportions. It is the obvious choice of location for multinational companies wishing to tap the lucrative Middle East, subContinental and African markets, with their combined population of 1.4 billion people. The import/re-export ratio here makes the UAE the third most important re-export centre in the world after Hong Kong and Singapore. Currently, we are exporting our products all over GCC. Looking at the current demand of our products, in the coming few years we might set up another manufacturing unit in Qatar or Saudi Arabia.
AT THE SUMMIT How do you see your company in the next two to three years? Italfood is a very dynamic company, always looking for new challenges and innovation, research and development are one of the most important parts of the strategy. In the next two to three years we see ourselves developing more product lines. We will have more market presence in retail as well as the foodservice channels here in the UAE and we will certainly have a dedicated export division for markets of the Indian sub-continent.
at our customers’ doorsteps. So right from the time when the raw materials arrive at our factory till the time our cheese is delivered to our customers, the cold chain is never broken. Do you expect Expo 2020 to impact the regional food business? We see a great potential and are confident that Expo 2020 will bring in a significant number of brands as well as customers from all parts of the world to the UAE. The food trading industry as well
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How did you decide to set up your business in RAK Free Zone? One of the main reasons that brought us to build our business inside RAK FZ was the possibility of having total percentage of ownership and a trustable business partner in the FZ authority. What are the bottlenecks in the food trade sector? In our specific field, you cannot develop the business without a deep knowledge of cheese processing and manufacturing procedures. The flexibility and the customisation of the product and process are the key to success.
This month in Dubai, the Italian Cuisine World Summit hits town, with numerous highly-regarded Italian chefs guesting in top Italian restaurants around town. Many of them are from Michelin starred establishments and include: Tommaso Arrigoni; Enrico Bartolini; Lionello Cera; Pino Cuttaia; Felix Lo Basso; Giorgio Locatelli; Graziano Prest; Daniele Repetti; Antonella Ricci; Niko Romito; Angelo Sabatelli; Marco Sacco; Claudio Sadler; Emanuele Scarello; Andrea and Maurizio Serva; Tano Simonato; Roberto Franzin; Gaetano Trovato; Sergio Vineis; Marianna Vitale; Vincenzo Candiano; Igor Macchia; Riccardo Di Giacinto; Alfredo Russo; Rosanna Marziale; Mario Caramella; Cesare Casella; Paolo Monti; Luigi Magni; Walter Potenza; Pietro Rongoni; Domenico Crolla; Davide Civitiello; Pasqualino Barbasso; Simone Fracassi; and Delphine Veissiere. Look for interviews next month with as many of these as we can track down!
November 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East
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CHEFS / face to face
Passionate cuisine Originally from Germany, Chef Oliver Glowig is widley recognised as one of the best modern interpreters of Italian cuisine. After his restaurant in Capri got Michelin recognition, he opened Restaurant Oliver Glowig in Aldrovandi Villa Borghese in the heart of Rome, achieving two stars in 2011 just eight months after opening. Prior to becoming a hotel, this late 19th century palace hosted a prestigious young ladies’ college.
F
ocusing on the high quality of his ingredients, Chef Oliver Glowig constantly experiments, driving forward his reinterpretation of Italian culinary tradition. Although he seems naturally drawn towards seafood, he is equally at home with Romans’ love of offal. He recently did a short season at BiCE Mare and we managed to catch up with him. How did you get into the business? I’ve always had a passion for food and kitchens. My parents used to take me to good restaurants and when I was 16 I did a short stage, loved it and so went to culinary school and took an appprenticeship. I grew up in Dusseldorf at a time when the German kitchen didn’t really exist everything was very traditional. I was fascinating by plating and became curious about French and then Italian food. As I advanced in my career, I started to travel and spent two years in Italy working with Marchesi - my first experience of a Michelin kitchen and where I learned to have the greatest respect for high quality produce.
How did you get to be invited to BiCE Mare? I met Chef Francesco when I was over for the summit. We got on and I can see us collaborating more. I’d like to exchange members of the brigades so they get different experiences. Are you an emotional chef? It’s strange. I’m German and quite organised - it’s my kitchen, my food - but my cuisine is passionate. I stay for the products and though I’d love to expand into more outlets, it’s a very expensive operation.
Parmigiana
You’re allowed three favourite ingredients. What do you choose. Olive oil from whatever region I’m in. Tomatoes. And ricotta.
What appeals to you about Italian food? Although I reinvent it, I like the tradition. I like the way that every region has its own culture. I get so much inspiration from the produce. Does Michelin acclaim make your job harder? It is an added pressure, of course, but for me the happiness of my customers is more important. In this work, passion is the most important thing.
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
Apart from Italian, what other cuisines interest you? I like the Japanese kitchen. It’s quite similar to my style in that it looks simple but is very complex. Indian food? Not for me - too much spicing. However, I did eat here in Dubai at Qbara and I thought that was very interesting and very good.
Scampi crudi, cuore di carciofo e burrata
Your view on TV celebrity chefs? It’s the fashion and it works for some people, but I’m more in ther background and happy there. The problem is that young guys just see the surface of TV and don’t see the hard work that lies behind those skills on display. I think it’s important never to stop learning. Yes, learn the basics but then never stop learning. My job is the best!
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Go ld-Fi ltered Mi neral Water
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Gize – The Luxury Drink
CHEFS / face to face
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
face to face / CHEFS
In the pink Executive Chef Robbie Stokes from Al Badia Golf Club by Intercontinental Dubai Festival City is trying hard to balance work and responsibility for his sick wife, Claire. A driven chef he is as enthusiastic about his new smoker as he is excited by the support of the industry in backing his Pink Brigade initiative.
C
oming up to two and half years at Al Badia, Robbie Stokes is a relative newcomer to Al Badia, arriving in March of this year. “It’s been great and we have good plans for the future - this location is just superb and once people discover it, they love it.” He started working in 1996 at one of Kent's finest championship golf courses and progressed to the Michelin starred Chapter One, working with one of his culinary mentors John Wood and then following him to Cliveden and Pavilion Spa, in the Waldos outlet, which itself gained a star within a year of their arrival. In 2001, Chef Wood moved to Dubai to be part of the opening team for Burj Al Arab and Chef Stokes followed him three months later, rising to Chef de Cuisine in Al Muntaha and Al Mahara. He also worked stages in his vacations at world class restaurants such as The French Laundry, Tantris, Hotel de Paris and the Plaza Athènèe. In 2007, he moved to the Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok as Chef de Cuisine to Chef Norbert Kostner before becoming pre-opening Head Chef at the Polo House in Marbella. Prior to his return to Dubai, he spent over two years in Switzerland, firstly as Executive Chef at Gamma Catering and then as a consultant. However, Switzerland held bad news also for the family. On May 3rd 2001, his wife Claire was diagnosed with breast cancer after the birth of their second child. Chemotherapy and a single mastectomy didn’t come cheap in Switzerland so, as soon as she received the all clear, the family moved to Dubai. Sadly, Claire was diagnosed in July 2012 with secondary breast cancer and began chemotherapy treatment again. In October of last year, Chef Stokes realised that he wasn’t doing enough on a personal level so
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he had a pink jacket made. IHG’s Executive Chef Stephen Bishop saw it and wanted one too. Before long, they decided to put together a campaign for other chefs, thinking initially that maybe 80-100 would sell. They were wildly wrong.
How much money did the initiative raise? Dhs 158,000. For each jacket, Dhs 54 covered the cost to Bragard and Dhs 46 went to the charity. Realistically, I think we can sell 5,000 in the UAE alone.
The reaction from chefs to your Pink Brigade idea must very encouraging for you. Yes, the response has been amazing. Initially, in my first conversation with Bragard, I said we’re probably be lucky to sell 100. Shortly after they agreed, I had a meeting with Chef Uwe of the Guild and he ordered 100 straight away for his chefs at Radisson Blu Dubai Deira Creek. I still remember his words: “If we sell 1,000, then I’ll be very unhappy!” After that it just snowballed and we shifted 500 in the first two weeks. I kept having to go back to Bragard and asking them to provide more and more, even 45 special jackets for kids.
What else is happening at Al Badia? The last time we spoke, you were planning a Spanish twist to Blades. Yes, I wanted to hire a great Spanish chef I know, Evan Bravo. He’s a real character and doing some great new things with tapas, but it doidn’t work out. So we still face a bit of a problem here. We have a double clientele - golfers and then Emiratis who love the ambience and privacy. The trouble is that neither really come here fore the food, although I believe we put out some great dishes. But now I have a new toy!
What was the final total? 1,558! We sold some to the UK and even Australia, thanks to George Calombaris. For next year, we’re already talking to the Compass Group in the UK they have 9,000 chefs! Claire must be moved by all the support and the extra recognition breast cancer awareness has received? She’s very proud of me. Both of us know what special people chefs are, but the level of support the love that is out there has been very moving. As an Executive Chef, you work crazy hours and I know Claire has felt quite lonely and isolated out here. Back home in the UK, there are all sorts of support groups, but it’s tougher here. Now she knows that people care and take time and effort to support.
What’s that? A proper smoker, made here in Dubai just for us. I can smoke enough food for 300 pax on a weekend, using imported hickory wood. It will take some time to really get to grips with it - there do seem to be a number of sectrets to doing it well and, of course, smoke pit bosses in the States spend a lifetime getting it right. We need to get the intensity of the heat right as well as perfect the marinade. It’s a first for Dubai, right? Yes, other restaurants have grills and barbeques, of course, but nothing like this. There’s a place coming up in the Madinat and I believe that a smoking culture can develop in Dubai, as others follow. It won’t work outside in the Summer we expect to use it then in different ways. It’s great fun!
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CHEFS / face to face
Back to the future Nirmal Sethia is a force of nature. Even in his early 60s, he shows no sign of slowing down, devoting his energies equally to a string of family businesses and charity trusts. He fully admits to being driven and it’s entirely typical of the man that mid-life crisis did not result in cross-continent motorbike rides but in the establishment of Newby Teas, a tea label devoted to restoring tea to its pre-colonial days as an aid to clarity and meditation as opposed to a ‘quick cuppa’ during the day. In almost a decade and a half, the company has won some 85 awards from the North America Tea Championship and the British Great Taste Awards. And, as a sideline to this sideline business, he’s busy creating the world’s best collection of tea antiques.
N
irmal Sethia’s parents moved to the UK from India in 1919 - a time and place that must have seemed alien to them, not least in terms of food and culture. His father was a major figure in the jute industry, which had become a vast crop in East Bengal largely controlled by the British East India Company with the world jute market later located in London. This vegetable crop created massive fortunes - in the First World War, for example, more than one million jute sandbags were exported to the trenches. So Nirmal Sethia was born into wealth and was sent to public shool, although he felt like an outsider as, for security reasons, his movements were restricted, he was delivered to school in a limousine and he ate his meals at school alone in a room away from other pupils. Aged 14, he rebelled and told his father that he had had enough of school and did not want to enter the family business. Surprisingly, perhaps, he received his father’s blessings, with three rules to live by: don’t steal, don’t lie and don’t be pretentious. Almost by accident, he got a job as an apprentice in a tea brokerage firm and his future course was set. Why are you so passionate about tea? I’m concerned that tea culture has practically been destroyed and I believe its revival is a must. We need to return to what the Chinese initially taght
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us. Initially, like most accidents, some tea leaves must falled into hot water - the taste was good and tea was then adopted and followed by both doctors and thinkers, for its health benefits. In the second century BC, Buddism spread and the use of tea as an aid to meditation began to appear with Royal dictates on its use. At this stage we start to see the introduction of tea urns as well as the development of many variants of tea. So how did it become the drink of the masses rather than a religious or social elite? It came via what we might call the chefs of the teas - they determined that only about 1% of tea produced is fine and, of that, only 0.11% is the very best. These teas were the only ones whose concentration was used to open the palate and so the question arose what to do with the rest of the lower quality tea. Before long there were some half a million tea houses in China and the nature of the drink had changed from a healthy aid to concentration to a tool to keep sleep at bay. This period lasted until around 700AD when the Tang emperor started to think that there must be more to the method of serving and drinking - the result was the culture of porcelain, which was brought to its greatest glory in the Ming period. Why did tea culture become so different in Japan?
It was taken there and planted by monks in the 11th century, but fairly quickly the Japanese wanted to develop their own teas and, for them, the tea ceremony became not a way to taste tea but rather a way to choose character, to choose the right wife. In that sense, tea is like a beautiful woman who is chosen not for appearance but for character. And the shift to Europe. Simple - the Portuguese. From China, they took back to Europe tea and porcelain and silks for their neighbours. When George II Married Catherine of Braganza, the Portuguese gave as her dowry a guaranteed regular supply of tea via the Dutch East India Company and Mumbai. The royal couple are credited with introducing tea drinking to the British aristocracy. So how did India become so important as a supplier? Quite simply, the Opium War. Suddenly, China refused to supply any more tea and the British in 1820 smuggled 20,000 bushes out of the country and planted them in Assam and then Darjeeling. It takes ten years for a bush to reach full production so it wasn’t until about 1830 that tea became readily available again in Britain. And then, in 1840, there was a dramatic change which started the decline of tea as a quality drink - Anna,
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face to face / CHEFS
“Tea has had a powerful, vast history, which started with its great glory and then its decline over time. History is a teacher for the present and I believe the 21st Century will restore the true value of tea. I'm proud that Newby Teas is playing a role in reinstating tea back to its glory.�
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November 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East
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CHEFS / face to face
“The decline in tea began in 1908, when Thomas Sullivan invented the teabag. Some tea packers began filling the teabags with low quality tea. Today, there are many poor quality tea products being pushed into the market with decorative packaging, fancy prices and semifalse marketing.”
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face to face / CHEFS
the Duchess of Bedford, started the fashion of afternoon tea to fill the gap between lunch and a late evening meal. The habit rapidly spread through the aristocracy as tea became more and more available and, because tea of the highest level wasn’t available in sufficient quantity, the quality dropped. Tea lost its character and became a status symbol and, because the taste was no longer as good, people began to add milk and sugar to make it more palatable. It was wrong, then, to turn tea into a popular drink? Well, at least it converted into the unsellable. However, we are now at the point where so many suppliers hide the lack of quality in their teas in a tea bag! What brought you into the tea business? Pure luck. At age 13, I rebelled and left school. I no longer wanted to be supported by my family’s money and connections - I must say my father was very supportive of that move, though he may have thought differently in private. The family business was jute and, at that time, we controlled 50% of the world jute market, so it would have been easy to go into that business. Anyway, I left my father’s office in Leadenhall Street - West India House and took a real step of rebellion: I bought some cigarettes! For most teenagers at that time, their rebellion was a little stronger... Yes! So I was walking the streets of London and was standing outside a building on Fenchurch Street smoking when a youngish man asked me what I was doing. Before I knew it, I was inside and taken on as an apprentice tea taster for a tea brokerage firm in Plantation House - the youngest in the world! My family had never been involved in the tea business before but, from necessity, I began to understand the marvels of Mother Nature and her gift of tea to mankind. At first, all tea leaves appeared the same, but I was taught to judge and value things not based on their appearance but their inherent nature and character. It can’t have been easy being alone in London at that age? My pay was 7 shillings a week - enough to pay my train fare to work, rent a single room near Sutton Station and get by with a limited budget. I could have gone to any bank and said I was a Sethia and got money but I had to do this on my own, which meant I had no choice but be attentive in my work. I was totally involved, disciplined and dedicated about learning about the tea industry. Tea became my teacher and a power centre for me. When I was 16 an Irish tea buyer approached me about setting up my own company in India and buying tea for his company. I returned to India to start this small operation of buying tea in the auctions in Calcutta. My business expanded and, a year later, I bought a small tea plantation in Assam and also had an office in Calcutta. I lived in that tea garden
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for almost a year to learn about the planting and processing. As the owner, I could have taken the main house on the plantation but instead I lived in a small shack - I loved learning through hardship. I also learned to cook for myself and I remember when my father came to visit and saw how hard I was working and looking after himself. There were tears in his eyes and I think he then really understood why I had struck out on my own. And success continued for you? Yes, the tea businesss grew. Then I learned that my uncle was cheating my father in the family jute business. I bought him out and so I was in jute and tea was forgotten. How could you make such a dramatic switch from a real passion? I suffer from Asperger syndrome, which is related to autism. One of the results is an intensity - when I do something, I commit to it fully. There I was, 21 years old, totally into jute and tea was forgotten. I had to be the biggest and the best at what I did and, in a year or so, I was setting the world price for jute. Sadly I lost my father when I was 24 and inherited part of his large empire and had to manage some of these family businesses - security printing and so on. We were successful and I acquired some influence partly through our charity works. For example, in 1992, I was asked if I could help Russia whose economy was in a bad shape. At that time, a pack of cigarettes would buy you almost anything. So the message came from Boris Yeltsin that there was no money they could pay me, but would I help? My view was that Russia had helped India in the past, so how could we be ungrateful? The result was that I forced the Indian government, though my personal contact, to settle a $12b debt. After that, I also developed business interests in Russia. And Newby Teas? That was really down to my late wife Chitra. She made me what I am and always brought me back to my senses. She used to tell that if anyone could make a history of tea it was and she asked me simply to make tea for her. So, in 2000, I decided to form Newby Teas with the mission to reintroduce the dying art and culture of tea. My intention was to create awareness about what good quality tea is all about. At first, I hired professionals to manage the show but they messed up, but Chitra encouraged me to invest more time and effort in producing fine quality tea. She believed that I could create a positive legacy for the tea industry. What were the main challenges in creating a different quality of tea? Fine tea is never judged by its appearance but by its character of the brew. However, heat, humidity and pollution are its enemies so I designed a unique packaging facility to preserve the freshness of the leaves. Different teas require different treatment so the factory is segregated into differing ambient areas to suit the characteristics and requirements
of different teas. The biggest enemy of tea is heat and that was a challenge I could fix. Harder, perhaps, is to get people to understand what real tea is about. For example, flavoured blends are not real teas but infusions where different ingredients and fragrances are added to poor quality tea to make it drinkable. And Newby has been successful? We inaugurated the factory in November 2005 and the next year began winning awards, lots of awards. Of course, in competitions the judges know how to taste tea properly - a fine tea should never be taken with milk. It deserves your respect. That’s why I believe that we are the only international tea brand that embraces the concept of preservation of character. Our working philosophy is based on honesty, dedication and a desire to share what we have learned and what we know. Tell me about your tea accessory collection. Sadly, I lost my wife in 2010 and I felt I had to do something to fulfill her expectations of me. We were producing great teas but there had to be more and the idea came to me when I realised that there was no real tea museum. Newby Teas does not make much money but I have a very personal stake in the business because tea is inextricably connected with the beautiful relationship I had with Chitra. Newby has, two major shareholders: the N Sethia Foundation, which is a registered charity that has donated millions of dollars towards education, medical research and disaster relief and the N Sethia Group, a conglomerate involved in banking, security printing, sugar refining, tea plantation and real estate. The latter, in 2011, created a private collection of tea accessories called The Chitra Collection and it is now the biggest single private tea accessories collection in the world and includes some of the rarest tea-related objects that date all the way back to 300BC. I also includes some modern pots which I designed and which were made in Milan. With a desire to spread an understanding of real tea culture, why is the collection not on display in a museum? Frankly, becasue after discussions with some of the largest and most famous, I realised that they have things on display without a provable provenance. The Chitra Collection is always willing to loan items for special exhibitions provided the correct financial coverage is in place in case of damage or theft. This collection is worth tens of millions of Euros‚Ķ It is owned by a trust so that, when I die, it can’t be broken up or sold. We are constantly adding to it - very recently we acquired the silver teapot that Nelson used on HMS Victory. Finally, how do you view competitors? I don’t see them. There are some good companies but most of the tea manufacturers are living on borrowed money and they are desperate to make money, so preserving tea culture has no interest for them. They are afraid of themselves.
November 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East
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recipe corner / CHEFS
Chop Suey restaurant
1 tsp oyster sauce METHOD
∙ Put the prawns in a bowl. Add the salt, pepper, sugar, carrot, asparagus and sesame oil and mix well.
∙ Cover the bowl with cling film and chill for at least
Chop suey is thought to have originated not in China but in California during the 1800s. Food historians speculate that Chinese cooks in the United States, seeking to sell Chinese food to Westerners but lacking many of the ingredients required for traditional Chinese dishes, created Chop suey out of necessity rather than culinary creativity. The name means ‘mixed pieces’. WON TON SOUP SERVES 3-4 INGREDIENTS 150g peeled prawns, chopped 50g mixed vegetables, julienned 1 tbsp asparagus, finely chopped 1 tbsp carrot, finely chopped
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2 tbsp spring onion. finely chopped 0.5 tsp salt 0.5 tsp white pepper 1/2 tsp light soy sauce 1 tsp sugar 2 tsp sesame oil 8 wonton skins 1l chicken stock
ten minutes.
∙ Put 1 tbsp of the filling into a wonton skin. Dampen the edges with a little water and bring up the sides of the skin around the filling. Pinch the edges together at the top to seal - it should look like a small filled bag. Fill the remaining wontons. ∙ When the wontons are ready, bring the stock, soy sauce, oyster sauce and sesame oil in a pan. ∙ In another pan, bring salted water to a boil and poach the wontons and vegetables for one minute. Remove them immediately and transfer them to the pan with the stock. Continue to simmer them in the stock for two minutes. ∙ Ladle into a large soup bowls. Garnish with the spring onions and serve at once.
November 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East
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CHEFS / recipe corner
CHICKEN MANDI SERVES 2
It’s mandilicious! Born and raised in Qatar, Millennium Plaza Hotel Dubai’s Executive Chef Essam Nabhan trained in Cairo and has since worked for two decades in the industry. He has also gained popularity as a celebrity chef, with cooking shows on both City 7 TV and Dubai TV, as well as presenting a variety of cookery lessons and speaking at major hotel events. Mandi, also known as Haneeth, is a traditional Yemeni dish now very popular in the rest of the Arab world.
RICE INGREDIENTS: For the rice 250g sella rice 2l chicken stock 3 garlic cloves 1 tsp ginger 1 medium onion 1/2 green capsicum 1 small green chili 1 medium tomato 10 coriander leaves 1 tsp cumin powder 1/2 tsp coriander powder 1/2 tsp cardamon 2 cloves 1/2 cinnamon stick 1/2 tsp black peppercorns 1 dry lemon 2 threadfs saffron salt to taste dash orange food colour 20ml corn oil METHOD ∙ Wash and drain the rice. ∙ In a skillet, add corn oil and when heated add onion and sauté until a golden brown colour. ∙ Add minced garlic and ginger then cook for a few minutes. Add tomato puree and cook for five minutes then add all the powdered spices and cook until the raw smell goes. ∙ Add capsicum, green chili, coriander leaves and chicken stock - add flavour to stock by adding cloves, cardamon, cinnamon and dry lemon. When the stock boils, add salt and rice ∙ Cook until the water level reaches below the rice and starts to form bubbles. ∙ Add saffron and food colour, then cover and simmer for ten minutes. CHICKEN INGREDIENTS 1kg chicken 2 threads saffron 1/2 carrot 1/2 celery 1/2 leek (white part) salt to taste METHOD
∙ Marinate the chicken with saffron and corn oil. ∙ Place the vegetable and stock in a boiling pot and bring it to the boil.
∙ Place a strainer on the pot in the boiling stock with the chicken on it and cover it with an aluminum foil for one hour until the chicken is cooked. ∙ To serve, arrange the rice on the plate and place the chicken on top. Serve with tomato sauce.
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
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CHEFS / recipe corner
Golden fridge chicken dumpling Lemon grass flavoured chicken ball with spicy mango salsa Ingredients 200g chicken, minced 30g lemongrass 3 lemon leaves 50g potato, boiled salt and pepper to taste 1 egg panko Japanese breadcrumbs Method ∙ Mix minced chicken, lemongrass and lemon leaves in a Robot Coupe until it comes to a smooth paste. Correct the seasoning and add boiled potato. ∙ Make into a bowl shape then keep in a freezer to set a little bit. ∙ Pass through seasoned egg wash and breadcrumbs, then fry till golden brown.
Tea by the Creek Dilmah, a family tea company from Sri Lanka, organises a global Real High Tea Challenge every year in 20 countries. Gold winners will then compete in the Spring in Sri Lanka for the grand prize. 2014 UAE winners came from Radisson Blu Dubai Deira Creek Dammika Herath (Pastry Chef) and Lloyd Aleta (Team Leader).
Salsa Ingredients 25g mango (ripe), cubed 1 sprig coriander 25g cucumber, cubed 5g red chilli 5g mango chutney 10ml chilli sauce Method
∙ Chop mango and cucumber into small dices. ∙ Deseed and chop the red chilli. ∙ Mix all ingredients together and correct the seasoning.
Dilmah Moroccan mint green rubbed lamb loin Serves 1 Ingredients 1 lamb loin 5 teabags (Dilmah Moroccan mint) 100g cauliflower 0.5l milk 5g onion, chopped 50g butter 1 pumpkin 1 tbsp honey 200ml vegetable stock 0.5 tsp parsley, chopped 100ml lamb jus 3 semi-sundried tomatoes 1 sprig thyme
Golden fridge chicken dumpling
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
42-43 RECIPE - RADISSON.indd 42
Method ∙ Marinate lamb loin with tea and season it. Roll it in cling film then vacuum pack it and cook. ∙ Sautee onion in butter then add milk and cauliflower. Cook it till tender then blend it in to smooth puree and season it. ∙ Cut pumpkin into square batons. Cook it like a fondant and glaze it with honey and butter glaze season it and finish it with chopped parsley.
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11/25/14 1:49 PM
recipe corner / CHEFS
Dilmah Moroccan mint green rubbed lamb loin
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November 2014 / The Pro Chef Middle East
43
LEISURE / travel
An epicurian festival Food festivals bringing together internationally acclaimed chefs are becoming ever more common. However, in Switzerland, fine dining culture is a little behind the curve - a situation that Heiko Nieder, Fine Dining Chef at the Dolder Grand in Zurich, is desperate to change. It took a year for the hotel’s team to put together a four day fine dining festival pulling in chefs who between them, run restaurant with 27 Michelin stars.
W
hen you think of Switzerland, fine dining doesn’t come readily to mind. Despite a high national income, Swiss cuisine is still largely rooted in its origins as plain and simple dishes created by farming communities. Of course, ingredients are exceptional and regional influences from French, German and Italian cuisines have created many distinctive dishes. However, it has largely been foreign chefs who have been pushing the envelope of fine dining, with The Restaurant at The Dolder Grand gaining two Michelin stars in 2010, amongst other accolades. It was logical, then, to make the restaurant and hotel the focal point of a major new gourmet push with the four day festival: The Epicure - Days of Culinary Masterpieces. 12 internationally renowned guest chefs, including Benoit Violier from the Hotel de Ville in Crissier, Switzerland (3 Michelin stars, 19 GaultMillau points), Massimo Bottura from the Osteria Francescana (3 Michelin stars) in Modena, Italy and Joachim Wissler from the Restaurant
Epicure entrance
GUEST CHEFS Benoit Violier - Hotel de Ville, Switzerland Massimo Bottura - Osteria Francescana, Italy Joachim Wissler - Restaurant Vendome, Schloss Bensberg, Germany Jean Sulpice - Restaurant Jean Sulpice, France Esben Holmboe Bang Restaurant Maaemo, Norway Johannes King - Dorint Söl'ring Hof, Germany Dieter Koschina - Hotel Restaurant Vila Joya, Portugal Francois Geurds - FG Restaurant, Netherlands Arnaud Bignon - The Greenhouse, UK Tim Raue - Restaurant Tim Raue, Germany Rolf Fliegauf - Restaurant Ecco, Hotel Giardino, Switzerland Gianluca Fusto - Italy
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
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LEISURE / travel
Vendome at the Grand Hotel Schloss Bensberg in Germany (3 Michelin stars, 19.5 GaultMillau points) prepared their own culinary masterpieces. The festival will now be an annual event. Epicure was led by Chef Heiko Nieder, who has been making a name for himself within Switzerland and beyond its borders. Over the course of three evenings, he cooked together with a guest chef an exclusive eight course menu at The Restaurant, Zurich's highest-rated restaurant with 2 Michelin stars and 18 GaultMillau points. Add in four master classes and a major finale with eleven
chefs doing live cooking for a capacity crowd and it was clear that Epicure was a resounding success. Chef Nieder believes that “the event is truly a great opportunity for bringing together people who are passionate about gastronomy”. The Dolder Grand was a stunning backdrop to the festival. Originally a health spa, the hotel was transformed into a luxury-class city resort creating a landmark location sitting above Zurich. Leading London architects Foster and Partners combined the historic main building, dating from 1899, with the innovations of modern architecture.
All extensions added after 1899 were demolished and two new wings added to curve around the fully restored main building. The hotel is also liberally furnished with an amazing art collection of more than 100 pieces, representing Camille Pissaro, Salvador Dali, Henry Moore and Andy Warhol. We flew Dubai to Zurich courtesy of Swiss, who runs a daily flight.
The art of cuisine With the position of Chef Fine Dining and in place since The Restaurant at The Dolder Grand reopened in 2008, Heiki Nieder was almost instantly winning accolades and a Michelin star for the restaurant within a year. A second followed two years later. Still in his early 40s, he continues to win awards and was the driving force behind The Epicure. How did The Epicure come about? As you know, we reopened the hotel six years ago and for a long time focused on our own events but my dream was always to have a fine dining festival. Zurich already has a very local festival and I wanted a more international one. What is the food scene like in Zurich? Regulars tend to be quite conservative in their tastes but when they find a restaurant they like, they’re loyal. We have a number of high-level restaurants but no Michelin 3-stars yet. The Epicure sold out, which makes us confident to do more next year - I plan, for example, international classes throughout the year. How did you get into food? My grandmother was a chef in a firm’s canteen in Hamburg and she took me to work when I was four. Apparently, I ran through the kitchen and saw sausages being made. I can still recall the smell - I found it interesting. As I grew, I loved her cooking and I loved to eat so, around 15, I started to teach myself - frying sausages or trying Chinese dishes from a book. I never wanted to be a chef then an older friend of mine started work as a waiter then I chef and I started to help out. My first time then in a real kitchen, I decided that this was what I wanted to do so I looked for the best apprencticeship and found a place in the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten in Hamburg. What did your parents do? My father was a cartographer, my mother a bookkeeper. At home, we had very traditional food. After my apprencticeship I went to business school to learn languages and then spent six months working as a bellboy. During my three years at the hotel, I learned so much but at that stage I still had not heard of chefs like Bocuse or Ducasse. Finally, my friend decided not to continue in the kitchen but I loved being a chef and I just kept wanting to
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
learn more and more. You moved in 1997 to Vau in Berlin. What was that experience like? I got a lot of influence from all over the world there. I was meeting chefs from China and Singapore, for example. Gradually, I was exposed to all sorts of different styles from around the world as well as learning a lot of modern techniques. By
now, I was really starting to think about what to cook, so in 2002 I moved to l’Orquivit in Bonn - we got a Michelin star three years later. How would you describe your style? I like to entertain but create create a show. My cuisine is not for effect. I love food. I love new things. I want to eat in every tapas bar in Barcelona!
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VIEW FROM THE TOP Chef Jean Sulpice's cooking is inspired by his location, 2,300 metres up in the ski resort of Val Thorens. This is the highest Michelinstarred (2*) restaurant in Europe and Sulpice has now spent ten years in place, turning a once skier’s energy station into a ďŹ ne dining destination. We spoke to him at The Epicure.
Your restaurant is remote and often blocked by snow. How much of a challenge is your location? To some extent, we are at the mercy of nature. More of a challenge for a chef, however, are the physical conditions that affect cooking - water boils at a lower temperature, bread turns hard quickly, wines age more quickly. When did you decide to become a chef? I struggled in school in Aix-les-Bains, but at 15 I saw the creativity in cooking. I studied under Marc Veyrat who taught me about
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mountain herbs, neo-Savoy cuisine and, most importantly, that cooking is storytelling. You source locally? Yes, of course. I have a network of local producers and my cuisine is constantly referencing the setting of the restaurant. What value do you get from an event like this? I wish to show my cuisine to the world. I have a passion for Savoy and I enjoy sharing with other chefs. Everything is about the terroir and the produce. For example, when I walk through the woods, I am aware of the scents being released underfoot. As your foot breaks the surface, you are enveloped by the smell of the forest. That effect, that moment, is what I want in my cooking. Can you sum up your beliefs in one sentence? I believe in terroir, in the seasons and in honesty in food.
LEISURE / last word
Off to Paris? Another set of culinary awards have been announced, this time by French firm Merci Chef! The awards are split in two: one contest for professionals and another for consumers in the UAE.
M
erci Chef! is Eurial's export brand of cheese, butter and UHT cream which is sold globally has added the UAE to the countries taking part in its annual awards, which are designed to promote quality French cheeses and various ways to enjoy them around the world. Its product categories range from goat cheese, cow cheese, butter and whipping cream. The competition has already started and chefs can get full details here: www.mercichefawards.com For the Food Professionals category, the competition has two phases. In the first phase, one recipe from the UAE will be selected and declared the winning entry. The winner will receive a dinner for two in a top Michelin starred French restaurant. In the second phase, the winning Chef will be filmed preparing his or her recipe and the video will be presented among other videos from other countries to a panel of judges from Merci Chef and the winning video will receive a culinary voyage to Paris. The deadline for entries is the 15th of December 2014 and the winners will be announced shortly after. The judging panel includes Chefs Paco Morales, Gregory Corman and Hans-Peter Tuschla.
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The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2014
"We are excited about the Merci Chef! Awards this year as foodies from the UAE will be able to participate in our recipe contest and help us uncover some of the culinary talent in the region" - Christophe Pigre, Export Brand Manager, Merci Chef!
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