The Pro Chef Middle East - February Issue, 2015

ISSUE 36 FEBRUARY 2015

MIDDLE EAST ISSUE 36 FEBRUARY 2015

GLOBAL FOCUS AT GULFOOD | RISING FOOD COSTS - THE IMPACT? | FACE TO FACE WITH CHEFS

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Contents

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20

28

36

UP FRONT

FEATURES

CHEFS

LEISURE

02

EDITORIAL How do the best meals or last year shape up to each other?

08

20

EDITORIAL BOARD Our industry champions who keep us informed about trends and more.

ROUNDTABLE As rising food costs present problems to chefs trying to stay within budget, we dicuss possible solutions.

48

04

THE EGGS FACTOR With two Rivington Grills to oversee, it’s a wonder that Chef Scott Stokes has any time to cook at hoime. So what’s in his fridge?

26 10

MARKET FOCUS Gulfood is apon us - a great opportunity to look over 20 trends that will impact F&B this year, that should be on display.

TOQUE TO ME One of a kind, Nico Ladenis still casts a shadow.

28

FACE TO FACE Chefs Jason Atherton and Rosalind Parsk offer very different views of Dubai dining.

36

RECIPE CORNER Great dishes from Alto Mar, Zengo, Sapori di BiCE, Tori No Su and Li Beruit.

06

OUT AND ABOUT The Global Restaurant Investment Forum (GRIF) will showcase two of the world’s most esteemed chefs - Heinz Beck and Todd English.

16

18

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PRODUCT FOCUS Brush up on your oyster knowledge.

PRODUCT FOCUS Reviving the finrest tea traditions of the past, Newby is a very different company.

THE LAST WORD What are the key kitchen tools in your arsenal?

February 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

1

UP FRONT / editor’s letter

The best! Really?

Christmas week in Paris for me culminated in my second visit to Sur Mesure, Chef Thierry Marx’ one-star at Mandarin Oriental. With a six course degustation menu, a welcome glass of Krug and three glasses of wine through the meal, I left with a big smile on my face and a €250 blow to my credit card.

A Facebook posting followed, declaring it the meal of 2014, pretty much the consensus of my lunch companion FooDiva, in town for the day from a Brussels-based Christmas. However, private messages soon followed. Had I forgotten so soon about my earlier ravings about Hedone or La Dame de Pic? Well no, I hadn’t. Truth is, however, that time puts meals like all experiences into content. Hedone, which I visited in London in the Summer is one-star tour de force by an untrained Swedish chef with unchallengeable passion for sourcing. His plates were imaginative, thoughtful, rich in deep flavours and visually inspiring. Yet the more I recall the meal, it seems less like a coherent whole than a series of virtuoso moments. And La Dame de Pic, the Parisian one-star from superstar Sophie-Anne Pic? The food was stunning, the service immaculate, the style graciously cool and elegant but, again, it now seems that the central conceit of a menu choice based on one of four perfume strips was just over-complicating the experience. Astounding food, but trying just a little two hard.

My other major achievement was the two-star The Restaurant at the Dolder Grand in Zurich, as part of a major gastro-festival. Wasn’t that the best meal of the year? Possibly - trouble is I can’t remember a thing about the food. I can picture the room, the company, the service but the food made no lasting memory on me.

So Sur Mesure it is. What made the meal so memorable for me was the seamless integration of East and West, modern and classic, light and shade on each plate. Minor grace notes appeared again and again across different courses, bringing thr whole meal together effortlessly - tiny macedoines of jellied flavour, a throwaway tempora flourish and so on.

Would Dubai ever deliver my best meal of the year? Anything is possible. There are some amazingly talented chefs at work here and I’ve had some seriously enjoyable plates but I don’t see anyone delivering a winning combination of dishes served with professionalism by good FoH staff in a great ambience to the level of those four meals - except for Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire. It wish it were different but, for now, will have to be very satisfied with individual tastes and plates.

Have a great 2015!

CHAIRMAN AND FOUNDER DOMINIC DE SOUSA CEO NADEEM HOOD COO GINA O’HARA ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER DAVE REEDER dave@cpidubai.com M: +971 50 450 6745 GROUP DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL PAUL GODFREY EDITOR DAVE REEDER SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION CHRIS HOWLETT PHOTOGRAPHER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION ANAS CHERUR GROUP DIRECTOR OF SALES CAROL OWEN carol.owen@cpimediagroup.com M: +971 055 880 3817 PRODUCTION MANAGER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION JAMES THARIAN WEB DEVELOPER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION LOUIE ALMA MANAGER – DATA AND DISTRIBUTION RAJEESH M Email: rajeesh.nair@cpimediagroup.com D:+971 4 440 9142 SUBSCRIPTIONS www.cpievents.net/mag/magazine.php PRINTED BY Printwell Printing Press LLC, Dubai, UAE PUBLISHED BY

Head Office, PO Box 13700, Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 440 9100 Fax: +971 4 447 2409 A publication licensed by IMPZ © Copyright 2015 CPI, All rights reserved.

While the publishers have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information in this magazine, they will not be held responsible for any errors therein.

UP FRONT / editorial board

Meet the board The Pro Chef Middle East is keen to serve its readership by addressing those areas of key interest, To help that task, we have invited a number of respected and experienced members of the F&B world to form an editorial board to help guide us into the future.

BOBBY KRISHNA TM PRINCIPAL FOOD STUDIES AND SURVEYS OFFICER FOOD CONTROL DEPARTMENT DUBAI MUNICIPALITY Indian-born Bobby Krishna brings a real passion to his job enforcing food hygiene and safety regulations to the F&B sector in Dubai.

MARC GICQUEL Regional Director of Food & Beverage, Arabian Peninsula Hilton Worldwide Born and educated in France, Marc Gicguel has wide experience of different parts of the F&B sector, from Disneyland Resort Paris to Jumeirah Restaurants and Nestle Professional before joining Hilton Worldwide.

CHRISTIAN GRADNITZER Corporate Director Culinary Jumeirah Group Christian Gradnitzer moved a couple of years back from kitchens to management and is now a key element in Jumeirah RnB’s plan to establish Jumeirah Group as a leading operator of successful restaurants and bars globally.

MICHAEL KITTS Director of Culinary Arts and Executive Chef The Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management UK chef Michael Kitts’ career has combined distinguished work in kitchens, global competition success and a major focus on mentoring younger chefs, all of which make his currenty job an ideal fit.

UWE MICHEEL Director of Kitchens, Radisson Blu Dubai Deira Creek President, Emirates Culinary Guild German chef Uwe Micheel is a highly visible member of the regional F&B scene with two decades of experience in the Gulf and a key role in driving the success of UAE-based chefs at culinary competitions worldwide.

MARK PATTEN Senior Vice President, Food & Beverage Atlantis, The Palm Dubai In place at Atlantis since pre-opening in 2007, Australian native Mark Patten has had a highly successful and celebrated career across the world. He now oversees more than 400 chefs and numerous outlets at the resort.

SAMANTHA WOOD FooDiva A distinguished ex-Hilton PR executive, British-Cypriot Samantha Wood now combines food journalism, hospitality consulting and the highly acclaimed FooDiva food blog.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

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UP FRONT / out and about

Top chefs presenting at GRIF 2015 The Global Restaurant Investment Forum (GRIF) will showcase restaurant concepts from around the world to provide valuable insight into the restaurant industry for investors and to showcase the hottest new restaurant trends globally. This year, GRIF adds two of the world's most esteemed chefs - Heinz Beck and Todd English - to its high calibre line up of expert speakers.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

Chef Heinz Beck is widely known as one of the most notable Masters of gastronomy. His unique interpretation of the modern kitchen uses a selection of ingredients to create truly innovative flavours and culinary concepts which distinguish his talent as a globally acclaimed chef.

He will be addressing the Global Restaurant Investment Forum (GRIF), detailing what he looks for when assessing a potential partner and discussing how you can maintain quality whilst expanding your presence internationally. “The hospitality and restaurant industry is nowadays the fastest growing industry and promises great investment potential," he says. “it's exciting as you have the possibility to share your cuisine philosophy, your passion for food and it's a great satisfaction when guests appreciate and reward your job" Chef Todd English is a highly decorated, respected and charismatic chef. He has been recognised by several of the food industry's most prestigious publications, established one of the best-known restaurant brands in the US, published four critically acclaimed cookbooks, and is a frequent guest on TV cookery shows.

He will be sharing what the key components are to structuring an agreement with investors and revealing what the 'must have' ingredients are to make the relationship and the product work.

English was keen to participate because he believes that “conferences like GRIF are so important for the industry. It brings together all the right people to drive future growth and development - operators, financiers, developers etc - and gives way to global ideas for local investment.” He feels food is the ultimate democracy, despite various turbulences around the world, food remains a constant.

“Restaurants are the social epicentre of our culture - the new living rooms of society - for many different occasions such as business, social, leisure, romance and so on. They have also become more entertainment driven and intertwined in our lives,” he explained.

The Global Restaurant Investment Forum (GRIF) is establishing itself as the must-attend event for organisations and individuals involved in restaurant investment, development and expansion.

GRIF 2015 will tackle issues such as agreements between franchisors and franchisees, restaurant design, making hotels dining destinations and gaining market share through social media.

The three day event will provide valuable networking opportunities and industry insights, and allow attendees to return to the work place with practical knowledge to apply to their business.

It runs from February 16th to 18th at Conrad Dubai.

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UP FRONT / the eggs factor

Back to basics Scott Stokes, Head Chef of both Rivington Grill and Rivington Bar & Grill, is a popular ďŹ gure in local culinary circles. His back to basics British cuisine focusing on fresh seasonal produce has been a leader in the rapidly emerging ďŹ ne/casual dining sector. But what does he eat at home?

“My dry stores consist of a lot of spices too. I choose grass fed meat over grain fed as I believe there is a lot more avour in the meat and more of a natural upbringing - the same as I would ďŹ nd back home in the UK.â€?

O

riginating from Kent, Scott Stokes entered the hospitality industry as a bartender but moved quickly up the ranks, reaching Assistant F&B Manager within a year. While working at the local Cherry Lodge Golf Club as FoH Manager, he really started to explore his passion for food, helping in the kitchen when it was undermanned and going in on his days off to learn more.

In August 2003, he relocated to Dubai as Commis in the Burj Al Arab's Al Muntaha restaurant.

Two years later, he was promoted to Senior Chef de Partie at the hotel’s ďŹ ne dining seafood restaurant, Al Mahara. He shifted to Jumeirah Restaurants in October 2008, joining Rivington Grill as Chef de Partie and working up to Sous Chef and then Head Chef. His back to basics style fopcusing on quality, seasonal ingredients suited Rivington Grill’s British style and he has balanced delivering ‘Rivi classics’ with new twists based on the best available produce.

One year ago, he became Head Chef of both Rivington Grill sites in Dubai ‚ÄÏ Rivington Grill Souk al Bahar and Rivington Bar & Grill Madinat Jumeirah.

He won the award as Best Seafood Chef at this magazine’s Fine Dining Awards last year, as well as being nominated by industry colleagues as Executive Chef of the Year. It’s a measure of his commitment to developing younger talent that

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

Rivington Grill’s Dinesh Mdam won Junior Chef of the Year. However, awards are not new to Chef Scott who regularly tours around the globe taking part in chef competitions from Singapore to London, including the coveted Hotelympia Best in Class Senior Live Theatre award. “So, what’s in my fridge?â€? Ă? "M "JO :PHIVSU OBUVSBM BOE MPDBM Ă? .JML BHBJO MPDBM Ă? )FJO[ 5PNBUP ,FUDIVQ Ă? )1 4BVDF Ă? &OHMJTI NVTUBSE Ă? %JKPO NVTUBSE

Ă? 'SFODIĂ€T NVTUBSE BO "NFSJDBO DMBTTJD Ă? -VSQBL VOTBMUFE CVUUFS Ă? &HHT BHBJO MPDBM Ă? 4QJOBDI MPDBM PG DPVSTF Ă? $BSSPUT Ă? 1PUBUPFT Ă? $PSJBOEFS Ă? 1JDLMFE POJPOT * MJLF )BZXBSET Ă? 1JDLMFE EJMM DVDVNCFST BOPUIFS "NFSJDBO DMBTTJD Ă? $IFFTF B ĂˆOF TFMFDUJPO BMXBZT Ă? -BNC MFH TUFBLT HSBTT GFE GSPN /FX ;FBMBOE Ă? 0OHMFU TUFBL HSBTT GFE GSPN /FX ;FBMBOE Ă? -BVSFOU 1FSSJFS $IBNQBHF POF CPUUMF XBJUJOH for a special occasion!

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the eggs factor / UP FRONT

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February 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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FEATURES / market focus

20 years and 20 trends Inuenced by many factors including growing populations, changing demographics, improved access to education, rising incomes, on-going research in the ďŹ eld of dietetics and nutrition, growing health consciousness and concern for the environment, global food trends are constantly evolving.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

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market focus / FEATURES

T

he following list contains 20 current and emerging trends - a number of which will be evident at the 20th edition of the world’s largest annual food and hospitality trade show, Gulfood 2015.

More meat Overall, the structure of the global meat trade is changing due to shifts in size and location of demand, with growth being driven by rising populations, incomes and increased urbanisation in emerging markets. For example, the GCC population is likely to exceed 50 million by 2020 a 20% increase on 2010 - with the rising regional affluence levels resulting in increased demand for premium protein-rich foods such as meat and dairy, away from carbohydrate-based foods consisting of staple items such as cereals. With increased quality, freshness and a demand for improved halal standards being of paramount importance, the regional market is vast for every player in the global meat industry.

Convenience foods In the GCC, a fast growing population, increased urbanisation and a growing workforce has led to generally busier lifestyles. As a result, people spend less time preparing elaborate meals, opting for the convenience of ready-toeat, pre-packaged food instead. In addition, a greater number of organised retail offerings hypermarkets, discount stores, local groceries and other retail outlets - has significantly contributed to the growing demand for processed food, which currently accounts for more than 50% of the GCC food industry (Frost & Sullivan) and equated to a value of $25b in 2013.

Healthy and organic Continued consumer demand for all things healthy, organic, additive-free and natural is driving an increasingly health-conscious food market – both regionally and internationally. The GCC market for organic produce is set to reach $1.5b by 2018 and the UAE - a hub for farmers’ markets and dedicated organic cafes and stores - is leading the way in its sales. Since obesity and diabetes are two of the primary health concerns in the region, this sector is expected to only grow. With the regional consumption of fast food and processed foods now at an all-time high, parents are also fighting childhood obesity by making smarter food choices for their children and looking for healthier restaurant options. Restaurants, forced to revamp their menus, now offer baked fries instead of French fries, salads and fruits instead of empty calorie foods, frozen yogurt instead of ice cream and fresh juices instead of sodas.

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Locally-sourced ingredients There is a growing market for seasonal produce that is sourced and/or grown locally including meat, seafood, fruits and vegetables. Despite the challenging climate, the number of local farmers, consumers and restaurants supporting smallscale domestic food production has substantially increased across the region. Given limited water resources and climatic conditions, however, farming activities remain marginal and the UAE and wider region are heavily reliant on imports.

Responsibly-sourced animal products As food sustainability moves up the agenda for consumers and restaurants, more focus is given to cage-free eggs, free-range chickens and livestock, plus sustainable seafood.

Increased emphasis on critical issues such as animal cruelty and the preservation of wild,

diverse and healthy ecosystems, means sourcing animal products responsibly has become a source of differentiation for many restaurants and supermarkets. In the UAE, for example, the overfishing of hammour has received considerable attention and many restaurants no longer serve the ‘under threat’ fish stock.

Halal Halal food already accounts for almost one-fifth of world food trade and is a trend that will only grow.

Halal extends into a wide variety of foodstuffs, from meat to dairy, and from canned foods to baked goods and cold drinks, with the lucrative trend being tapped by mainstream food giants and niche manufacturers alike. Globally, the sector is forecast to reach $1.6t by 2018, with GCC Halal food imports set to jump from $25.8b in 2010 to $53.1b by 2020. (Economist Intelligence Unit).

Smoking is gaining new ground for the wood-fired flavour that it adds to food and beverages. No longer used solely for meats, hot and cold smoking processes are now applied to vegetables, butters, cheeses, cocktails and other non-traditional foods including salt, sugar and paprika.

The regional market is vast for every player in the global meat industry

February 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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FEATURES / market focus

Spices always satisfy

consuming dairy, eggs and any other animalderived substances. Raw vegans add raw foodism to the plate, excluding all food cooked at a temperature of higher than 48C.

Pickling will be big this year

Gluten-free As more people are tested for gluten intolerance and diagnosed with celiac disease, demand for gluten-free products is on the rise, with entire households converting to gluten-free diets to accommodate the need of one affected family member. Gluten-free packaged goods, glutenfree muffins, buckwheat, wild rice pasta and wheat flour substitutes such as quinoa flour, amaranth flour, coconut flour and almond meal are gaining consumer attention and market share around the world.

From clean to clear label Consumers are increasingly applying pressure on

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manufacturers to address the lack of definition of ‘natural’ by demanding greater transparency and information about their food including the origin and naturalness of products. The behavioural pattern is underlined by a a raft of new apps which provide health conscious consumers with immediate access to the nutritional content of food, simply by scanning a barcode or inputting a list of ingredients.

Veganism and raw veganism The vegan and raw vegan trends persist and continue to influence restaurant menus around the world. Vegans, apart from avoiding all forms of meat, chicken or fish, also refrain from

Good fats and good carbs With obesity a mounting concern, the popularity of vegetable oil, olive oil and food rich in omega-3 fatty acid content has grown as consumers opt to replace bad fats, ie saturated and trans fats, with good unsaturated fats. Similarly, simple carbs generally have a bad reputation, breaking down quickly and leading to sugar spikes—as opposed to complex carbs that take longer to metabolise, maintaining stable sugar levels. As consumers shift towards healthier lifestyles, naturally occurring sugar is favoured over sucrose and artificial sweeteners. Coconut sugar, for example, is an emerging trend - it is less processed, has lower glycemic index and contains more nutrients than white table sugar.

Fermented foods Though fermented foods rich in live bacteria have been around for a while, their popularity is set to surge in 2015 because of increasinglyrecognised health benefits. Known to balance the microbiome - the vast community of bacteria living within us - fermented foods such as yogurt, sauerkraut, kimchi, fermented vegetables and kefir help regulate the immune system, promote a healthy metabolism, sustain the gastrointestinal tract and help maintain a healthy weight. For example, drinks like kombucha, a centuries-old fermented tea, are becoming a hot commodity.

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FEATURES / market focus

Alternative protein As consumers shy away from industrial farming and opt for sustainable alternatives, food manufacturers and shoppers are on the lookout for the next protein source. Some substitutes that continue to gain popularity include soy, whey and pulse protein. Emerging trends also include algae and even insect-based proteins.

Smoked everything Smoking is gaining new ground for the woodfired flavour that it adds to food and beverages.

No longer used solely for meats, hot and cold smoking processes are now applied to vegetables, butters, cheeses, cocktails and other nontraditional foods including salt, sugar and paprika.

and electrolytes. Though coconut water has dominated the market, new forms of hydration drinks including maple, cactus and watermelon water have emerged. The all-natural maple water contains 15 calories per 8-ounce serving, with only half the sugar content of coconut water and more manganese than one cup of kale!

Texture matters As consumers seek more than flavor in their food adventures, texture continues to play a vital role in the taste perception of food and beverages.

Using it to assess whether a product is 'real', fresh or less processed, shoppers look for nuts in bars and cookies, and pulp in freshly-squeezed juices. Striving to make their products rich,

crunchy and chewy, manufacturers pay special attention to crispy inclusions, soft centres and extra crunchy toppings.

Packaging revolution Increasing aware of the effects their consumption patterns have on the environment, shoppers are driving innovations in the packaging industry. Apart from delivering healthier and fresher products, package designs also need to be sustainable, add functionality, create a novel experience, convey the brand story and be recyclable and/or compostable to gain traction with consumers. More food labels will undergo a transformation process to align with these expectations.

Spice alchemy Thanks to the proliferation of global cuisines, there is increased consumer interest in bold flavours and spice combinations. With general consumers seeking alternatives to salt (due to concern over sodium intake) and become amateur spice mixologists, spices like cumin, saffron, cardamom, sumac, za’atar, harissa, and Aleppo and Marash peppers are being used more frequently in cooking and found more frequently in general supermarkets.

Seeds and nuts Due to their nutritional properties, nuts and seeds - rich in omega-3 fatty acids, proteins, vitamins and minerals - will remain the health buzzwords in 2015. Incorporated into meals and eaten as healthy snacks, nuts are used in baking to substitute wheat flour and in the preparation of raw nut cheeses for consumers passionate about living a vegan lifestyle.

Flavour fusions As consumers become increasingly sophisticated, picky and hard to surprise, manufacturers have taken to pairing unusual flavours for dynamic effect including chili and chocolate, wasabi and chocolate, sea salt with caramel, cinnamon and orange, strawberries with fava beans and oyster and kiwi. More unexpected combinations will be introduced in 2015.

Matcha Popular in Japan for centuries, Matcha, a green tea in the form of a fine green powder, is emerging as the next big trend in ultrahealthy beverages. Packed with antioxidants, L-theanine and beta carotenes, Matcha is also a coffee substitute and contains only a quarter of the caffeine found in coffee. In addition to being served as tea, it is increasingly available in convenient formats such as lattes, sodas and ready-to-drink cans.

The new coconut water(s) Consumers are moving away from fizzy, sugary drinks and seeking natural and healthier alternatives rich in vitamins, minerals, antioxidants

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Is it too late to start to go ultra-healthy?

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FEATURES / product focus

On the half shell Jonathan Swift said ‘he was a brave man that first ate an oyster’ but Casanova, the great 18th century Italian lover, believed in starting the day by eating 50 oysters research in 2005 supported the view that oysters may have an aphrodisiac quality thanks to rare amino acids which are highest in spring, when the oysters are breeding. What else do you know about these bivalves?

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product focus / FEATURES

A

round two billion pounds of oysters are eaten every year around the world.

The word is used as a common name for a number of different families of saltwater clams, bivalve molluscs that live in marine or brackish habitats, many from the superfamily Ostreoidea. Some kinds are eaten, some cultivated for pearl and some harvested for their translucent shells.

Oysters are filter feeders, drawing water in over their gills. Tey can filter up to five litres of water an hour and oyster filtration can help clear large bodies of water of excess sediment, nutrients and algae. Female oysters discharge millions of eggs into the water and the larvae develop in about six hours, swimming around for about two to three weeks before settling on a bed and maturing within a year.

The largest oyster-producing body of water in the US is Chesapeake Bay, although (in 2005) China accounted for 80% of the global oyster harvest. Within Europe, France remains the industry leader, with other large beds of edible oysters found in Japan and Australia.

In the early 19th century, oysters were cheap and throughout that century, oyster beds in New York Harbor became the largest source of oysters worldwide - six million being harvested daily.

Unlike most shellfish, oysters can have a fairly long shelf life of up to four weeks. However, their taste becomes less pleasant as they age.

As such an abundant food source, they helped initiate the city's restaurant trade.

Oysters have been cultured for well over a century with the Pacific oyster presently the most widely grown bivalve around the world. Oyster consumption goes back into prehistory, evidenced by oyster middens found worldwide. They were an important food source in all coastal areas where they could be found and oyster fisheries were an important industry where they were plentiful. Overfishing and pressure from diseases and pollution have sharply reduced supplies, however.

Unlike most shellfish, oysters can have a fairly long shelf life of up to four weeks. However, their taste becomes less pleasant as they age.

Oysters should be refrigerated out of water - not frozen - and in 100% humidity. Oysters stored in water under refrigeration will open, consume available oxygen and die. They must be eaten alive, or cooked alive. The shells of live oysters are normally tightly closed or snap shut given a slight tap. If the shell is open, the oyster is dead and cannot be eaten safely. Cooking oysters in the shell kills the oysters and causes them to open by themselves. Traditionally, oysters that do not open have been assumed to be dead before cooking and therefore unsafe. However, according to marine biologist Nick Ruello, this advice may have arisen from an old, poorly researched cookbook’s advice regarding mussels, which has now become an assumed truism for all shellfish. Ruello found 11.5% of all mussels failed to open during cooking but, when forced open, 100% were both ‘adequately cooked and safe to eat’.

Oysters are normally eaten raw on the half shell, but can also be smoked, boiled, baked, fried, roasted, stewed, canned, pickled, steamed or broiled, as well as used in a variety of drinks.

For connoisseurs, eating is as simple as opening the shell and eating the contents, including juice, together with a squeeze of lemon or Mignonette sauce (finely chopped shallots, peppercorns, dry white wine and lemon juice or sherry vinegar).

DID YOU KNOW? Í New York oyster beds in the 19th Century were the largest source worldwide. They were later overfarmed and all but wiped out. Í Oysters are good for you thanks for a good belt of zinc, which makes you feel good and gives you energy, as well as boosting the immune system. Í Oysters and absinthe are a perfect match, more so than Champagne, thanks to the combination of briny, mineral-rich oysters and the soft fennel and mint of the absinthe. Í Americans pioneered pairing oysters and alcohol -the New York oyster taverns of the 19th century is where most Americans first started drinking spirits with their oysters. Í The oysters we eat don’t make pearls. Those come not from the edible family ostreidae but from the pteriidae family. Í Oysters taste better in the winter because they spawn in the summer, which gives them a weak and watery flavour. Í Bad oysters exist and we don’t just mean ones that have been sitting out for a while in the warmth. The reason is vibrio vulnificus, a bacteria that grows in places that boysters thrive in. Not that common, but worth knowing.

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February 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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FEATURES / product focus

When art and tea collide With such a broad and diverse range of teas available on the market these days, interest in the perennially popular beverage appears stronger than ever.

But has our appreciation of the traditions and cultures which add avour to its fascinating history kept pace? Based in London, luxury tea purveyor Newby fears not. And it’s on a mission to change that.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

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product focus / FEATURES

M

any of us - possibly even most of us - don’t think too much about our tea. A quick dunk of the bag, filled with something from, er, India – is it? Our ill-informed modern-day ways would have Newby founder Nirmal Sethia, a tea expert since his teens, quivering with despair. As for your milk and sugar, don’t even go there. To Sethia and adopters of the Newby philosophy ‘tea is an art’, the world’s number two drink (second only to water) deserves respect - from the moment the leaves are picked until we sit down and enjoy all the hard work which happened in between. But a whole lot more took place before that…

Historians will often point to a number of pivotal stages in tea heritage, which can be traced back as far as 59 BC in China, although archaeologists have found evidence of its existence for thousands of years prior to that written record. Later, China’s Tang and Song Dynasties were pioneers of elaborate tea culture between the 7th and 13th centuries, taking the utmost care in their brewing and preparations and bringing the involved concept of the ‘tea ceremony’ to life.

Tea’s arrival in the west is attributed to Portuguese and Dutch traders in the 16th and 17th centuries, but at that time it was still a precious commodity only within the means of the nobility.

Over the next 200 years, cultivation expanded through India, Ceylon and East Africa - its ubiquity was to increase to the point where it became commonplace.

Purists would view the accidental invention of the tea bag in 1908 as the point where it all started to go wrong. Convenience won out over quality, ceremony had become an arcane history book concept and it was all downhill from there.

It was this lamentable state of affairs which led Sethia, with decades in the tea trade behind him, to establish Newby around the turn of the century.

Knowing how good tea could be - but rarely was - he decided to do things differently. But the tea itself was only half the story. This was tea culture reborn. One ardent man’s quest to revive the grand traditions and shake up an industry.

In the intervening decade-and-a-half, Newby has been quietly but steadfastly doing just that, positioning itself as a veritable authority on all things tea. If that sounds like big talk, its Chitra Collection – a huge curation of tea antiques featuring royal tea sets and the painstakingly

intricate works of artisans through the centuries – would leave you in no doubt this is a company driven more by passion than profit. Of almost inestimable value, viewings are by invitation only, but you can catch a glimpse of some of its precious artefacts on Newby’s product packaging, often accompanied by a mini history lesson to bring the days of tea as an event rushing back.

The company sets great store by preserving the character of each of its teas, the diversity of which Sethia likens to that of the human race itself. "If the character is not retained through the concept of preservation," he asserts, "even a good tea will become a bad tea." Reason enough then to build a production facility so technically advanced that Newby’s competitors can only admire it from afar.

Pollutants, smells and other undesirables are kept at bay in conditions controlled to the maximum. Thoughts of the past and present are never far away, but the boss always keeps his eye

"If the character is not retained through the concept of preservation, even a good tea will become a bad tea."

- Nirmal Sethia on the future. Multi-layered packaging has been conceived to ensure the tea’s original freshness is maintained right up to the point of consumption which, should you so choose, could even be years away. In the age of the sell-by date, Sethia is keen to point out that a well-preserved tea, kept in conducive conditions, can last for decades.

For a company which began life with just a handful of varieties, Newby’s current offering is impressively eclectic. Taking pride of place in its premium range is the Gourmet Collection, a best-of-the-best selection of loose-leaf variants including Taiwanese Formosa and superior-grade Assam and Darjeeling. Demonstrating that the artistry is not confined to the teas, even the caddies they come in have won a design award.

While Newby doesn’t eschew the tea bag completely - a successful range has been launched containing the same high-quality blends as its

loose-leaf products - its receptacle of choice is undoubtedly the Silken Pyramid, a suspended mesh bag of goodness causing a stir in UK tea circles.

You could look at a Silken Pyramid as the tea bag for grown-ups: tear open the artistic foil sachet and the satisfyingly hefty mesh sack bounces out, packed with premium whole leaves… Yes, beauty can be found in the most unexpected places.

Quality and convenience reunited and it feels so good.

So, you’re ready to do this properly. You have your perfectly preserved tea to hand, raring to go. But how best to prepare it? The good news is that the art of making tea is still, ultimately, a simple affair – you just need to know what you’re dealing with. Firstly, make sure you’re keeping your tea in an airtight container, with no exposure to light and at a temperature neither too hot nor too cold. Nothing will relegate your tea to the second division quicker than poor storage conditions.

You will find that Newby products include brewing instructions tailored to the specific blend. Water temperature and infusion time can vary depending on the leaf – and the right temperature results in a better infusion. White tea and specialities like oolong and pu erh all have their own needs. The quality of your water makes all the difference: filtered or spring water low in minerals is preferable, but if it is out of the tap do make sure it’s freshly drawn. The water sitting around in your kettle will lose oxygen when it’s re-boiled, resulting in that dull, ‘furry’ taste (and an accompanying sense of disappointment).

For green teas, the water may be left to cool slightly and require a shorter brew than a robust black such as Assam, while a fruity tisane like Strawberry & Mango has a recommended wait time of six to eight minutes. Patience and selfrestraint may be a pre-requisite, but the results bring ample reward.

If your teapot hasn’t seen active service for a while and the cups and saucers are looking less than regal, you might find inspiration for an upgrade at the Newby Web site. The ornamental treasures of The Chitra Collection are truly aweinspiring in their complexity. While most do date back hundreds of years, this craftsmanship is not quite a lost art yet - several newly commissioned pieces have recently joined its ranks. The jolly elephant teapot, one of Nirmal Sethia’s own designs, would give a mighty kick of grandeur to any afternoon tea.

Just one last thing to bear in mind: all this refined supping could serve as a wake-up call to your palate. Before you know it, that jaded old brew you used to call tea will be consigned to the back of the cupboard. Along with the milk and sugar.

Information and images provided by Newby. www.newbyteas.com

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February 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / round table

Chef Nawaf Almhamid Regional Chef de Cuisine, Shakespeare and Co

Chef Chabrel Khachan Group Executive Chef, Shakespeare and Co

Chef Jéan van der Westhuizen Executive Chef Unilever Food Solutions Middle East

Chef Jörg Unger Executive Sous Chef, Atlantis The Palm

Chef Majed Al Sabagh Corporate Executive Sharjah Ladies Club

David Loft Chief Commercial Officer, dnata Catering

Watching the costs Chefs are increasingly caught in a deadly pincer trap: customers (whether diners or catering clients) expect food prices not to rise year on year, suppliers push their prices up when they can and senior management puts pressure on the bottom line to reduce costs. What’s the solution? We asked a number of senior industry players what they can do.

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hat is the main cause of rising costs these days?

Uwe Micheel: I think the main effect comes from shortages in the market. Look at lamb from New Zealand, for example - now massive amounts of it and of dairy go to the China market where there’s demand for milk powder. Australia too - floods causing massive shortages. We’re also seeing markets like India and China with more disposable income and so more people wanting to eat meat and being able to addord to.

Chabrel Khachan: I’d say our food costs have gone up 10% over the past year. Some produce like apples or bananas have gone up in price 300% in the last two years. What can we do? Keep

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squeezing our suppliers.

Jörg Unger: The problem is that food prices are higher but customers want the old price. Recently, a client came back to us and wanted the same prices as she’d enjoyed for a wedding in 2012. It’s not possible but how to explain it to customers?

Micheel: Yet they see it in supermarkets which are allowed to raise prices, however a lot of products are no longer brought here because they’ve been priced out. All of this can lead to a lack of quality.

Harald Oberender: Sometimes too the volumes here in the UAE are too small for the big players.

To make it worth their while they’re trying to get a ten year contract based on certain quantity levels before they’ll commit to you. If the option is no chicken, then what can you do? I think too

we’re going to see a major impact from the Euro in freefall - it could be equivalent to the dollar.

Khachan: Food prices go up but we can’t raise ours because of the Municipality. Prices are rising every day, sometimes twice a day!

Unger: Of course, new regulations for HACCP and so on are also pushing up our costs. The thing is, we need to secure our supply chains.

Micheel: But at double the price?

Nawaf Almhamid: It’s very hard when our costs go up because we cannot raise our prices yearly.

With more hotels coming up, we have to pay more to keep good staff - someone who was on Dhs 2,000 now wants Dhs 3,500.

Unger: I think part of the answer is yearly contracts.

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round table / CHEFS

Chef Uwe Micheel Director of Kitchens, Radisson Blu Dubai Deira Creek and President, Emirates Culinary Guild

Chef Harald Oberender Director of Kitchens, Dubai World Trade Cebtre

Chef Thomas Pedarovski Executive Chef, St Regis Abu Dhabi

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CHEFS / face to face

Jéan van der Westhuizen: But can you guarantee a fixed price for thye year?

Almhamid: Don’t forget our other costs also go up - new hygiene regulations, for example.

Unger: The reality is that our customers believe there should be no price increases because food prices are fixed. Often, as hotels we pay more for produce than people can buy from supermarkets!

We’re seeing a constant growth in the number of suppliers. Normal economic rules would suggest that would lead to lower prices, but that’s not happening?

Westhuizen: Maybe there are too many suppliers?

Unger: Yes, there are more suppliers but then there are always more hotels, more restaurants so the pressure doesn’t work so much. We’re seeing oversupply but prices aren’t falling.

David, we all have a fairly UAE-centric view on this, but dnata Catering works globally.

What’s your take on this?

David Loft: We’re finding our food costs are impacted most by shifts in exchange rates - that’s true at present in South Africa and Australia, for example.

Westhuizen: We also have a global business so rise in raw materials affects us across the board. Maize, for example, was $300 a tonne ten years ago and now it’s $500.

Oberender: And at times when some raw materials are not available, then demand will be higher than prodiuction.

Unger: You need a quota.

But why can’t you get your customers to understand the cost of your product?

Oberender: It’s down to customer knowledge.

Food is seen as simple. For a local wedding, for example, they’re prepared to spend much more on flowers! With food, the first thing they consider is the price, not the quality or the variety.

Micheel: In catering, they’re just not interested in those things! ‘Give me the lower price item.’

Unger: Many of our costs are hidden from the customer - perhaps 60% aren’t even thought about.

Westhuizen: As you know, Lipton is one of brands and you can hear people asking why a pot of tea is Dhs 14 when it’s basically just hot water! But, of course, there are hidden costs in making it.

Thomas Pendarovski: I believe above all that you pay for quality - that’s the bottom line. I my hotel, everything is about quality.

Khachan: But if I show you two suppliers with the same product at the same quality, how do you choose your supplier?

Surely purchasing isn’t just about price? There must be a value in the relationships you build with suppliers?

Oberender: Yes, but our purchasing people also have a job to do.

Unger: At Atlantis, we now do e-bidding. It’s blind so we cannot see the suppliers bidding for

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INSPIRATION EVERY DAY UFS (Unilever Food Solutions) helps chefs all over the world serve tasty, wholesome meals that keep their guests coming back for more.

It creates ingredients that save precious prep time in the kitchen, without compromising on flavour or flair, as well as constantly providing ideas and inspiration that keep menus fresh and exciting.

UFS has been in food since the 1880s and is home to some of the world’s favourite brands: Knorr, Hellmann’s, Lipton and more.

It works with independent restaurants, hotels chains and contract caterers in 74 countries.

With a team of highly skilled chefs and nutritionists, it helps customers to find the right balance of great tasting and nutritious food served up to the same consistently high standards.

UFS always cares about putting healthy and nutritious food on the table, but it also cares about its impact on the earth.

Using ingredients and packaging that are sustainably sourced, generate less waste and consume less energy is all part of its environmentally responsible way of doing business.

contracts but, of course, the Executive Chef has the final call.

Oberender: But you get new suppliers underbidding the lowest in the marker. Many people will take that for a yearly contract.

What is your current cost of food production?

Micheel: 2014 came out to 33.2% and I’m projecting 33.5% for this year. Not so long ago, it was 31.2%.

Khachan: Our target is 24%.

Westhuizen: Can I ask a question? Are your suppliers charging you for wastage, for the stocks they buy but can’t shift? Are they passing those costs on to you?

Unger: I believe suppliers fold waste into their cost structure, yes.

Pendarovski: Controlling waste is a great way of cutting costs. You have to utilise everything. You also have to control everything in the hotel - we don’t buy chicken parts, we buy whole chickens and break them down and use bones for stock.

Procurement has no control over me because I

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“Controlling waste is a great way of cutting costs. You have to utilise everything. You also have to control everything in the hotel - we don’t buy chicken parts, we buy whole chickens and break them down and use bones for stock.”

- Chef Thomas Pendarovski

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CHEFS / face to face

insist on the integrity of what we, as chefs, do.

Khachan: Just to return to costs again, with all the new outlets and hotels, we’re all facing a skills shortage. We need to be able to emply better experienced and qualified people to reach and maintain standards, but how can we do that if we’re controlling our costs so tightly?

Pendarovski: My experience, both here and in North America, is that guests are looking for the higher end. If at breakfast you have a chef cook you a proper French omelette in front of you, surely you see the value in that and realise you need to pay for the service?

Micheel: Things are always shifting in this market.

Pricing catering events is hard.

Pendarovski: The problem I find is that after a catering contract is signed, somebody who knows somebofy will start talking and management will ask me to knock 25% off the price. That’s hard to deal with when your bread and butter income lies in catering.

Loft: Certainly, we find that every year people want a reduction on cost.

Unger: In Europe, you’ve had the same issues for some time. The trouble is, you need the banquet income.

Pendarovski: To go back to your previous question, with catering I’m looking at a food production cost of 31.2%, but I’m shooting for 26-7%.

Unger: We’re also seeing more demand for personalised service and add-ons - like extra live stations - but for the same price!

Pendarovski: Ah, for things like that. we charge a supplement. Again, we’re getting more requests for small portions for weddings and again we have a supplement charge.

You have a question, Jéan?

Westhuizen: Thank you. Simply this: is it easier to cut costs or to sell more?

Pendarovski: I find that one business unit helps Micheel: I don’t think you can bring percentages to the bank. It’s about the bottom line and any profit is good.

Oberender: As the Trade Centre, we’re competing with Singapore, Hong Kong and London so we rely a lot on the sales team to bring business.

Pendarovski: I think bringing business has to be a whole team effort. My GM gets involved a lot more on food costs but he’s firm about quality too.

Micheel: The reality is that we can all reduce ourt food costs by 5% but then we’d lose all our guests!

Oberender: As we said before, a lot of people have no idea of food costs.

Al Sabagh: There was a small canteen that used to sell a whole roast chicken for Dhs12, but that was

the cost of the chicken to him. I say ‘used to’ - he’s out of business now.

Isn’t one way of cutting costs to use prepared products?

Unger: Yes, they have their place. For example, you can’t make fresh mayonnaise for 2-3,000 people - it’s just not safe. But in a fine dining restaurant, you’d expect to make it fresh.

Pendarovski: I’m hard line about this. We make everything fresh, except for things like tomato sauce for room service, because there you have HACCP concerns, of course. The answer, for me, is to have qualified staff who understand what they’re doing.

Micheel: You’re lucky to be able to afford to do that.

Pendarovski: Well, you have to do the math. If you’re catering for 10,000 people, then it’s going to be cheaper to buy in.

Khachan: Our concept is to be homemade. We do, for example, egg white omelettes and then use the yolks for mayonnaise‚Ķ Micheel: Same with us, we reduce wastage whenever we can. With chicken we use the bones to make stock but we add package stock to add extra flavour.

Pendarovski: Really?

Westhuizen: I believe it’s about size of the operation and convenience. We have a fresh lime product that’s a powder that you can substitute for freshly squeezed lime. Look, when you squeeze a kilo of limes, about 700 grams goes straight into the garbage. Yes, you can take the pith but the skin and so on is waste. With our process, we can extract much more and reduce the wastage.

Ford: We use a lot of those kind of products. We have to.

Micheel: I think we’ll see a lot more focus on things like this as waste removal costs are due to double this year.

Almhamid: Across our outlets, it’s important that we offer a consistent taste. we had a problem with mashed potato, for example - people would say in different places that it was too sticky or too starchy.

Now we use potato powder mixed with a little fresh and it works.

Pendarovski: I’m afraid that even my coffee is freshly ground for every cup!

We would like to express our thanks for the hospitality given to us by Chef Uwe Micheel and the staff of the Radisson Blu Dubai Deira Creek.

“At Atlantis, we now do e-bidding. It’s blind so we cannot see the suppliers bidding for contracts but, of course, the Executive Chef has the final call.”

- Chef Jörg Unger

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Round table discussion The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

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February 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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FEATURES / toque to me

Nico Ladenis Eating at Nico’s restaurant in London was the first time that Dave Reeder, editor of The Pro Chef ME, understood quite how good food could be.

Famously known for his temper, he was the first self-taught chef to gain three Michelin stars for his restaurant.

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orn in Tanzania in the mid-1930s, Greek chef Nico Ladenis is best known for his restaurants in the UK, which won three Michelin stars. His restaurant Chez Nico was rated ten out of ten by the Good Food Guide.

However, re returned his stars some 15 years ago because of his disillusionment with the London restaurant scene.

A self-taught chef who never attended culinary school, although he worked for a week three Michelin star Moulin de Mougins under Roger Vergé, thanks to the support of Chef Michel Roux.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

After running his Chez Nico restaurant in Dulwich, South London, he opened another London restaurant, this time called Simply Nico and located in Pimlico. This was followed by Nico at Ninety inside the Grosvenor House Hotel in Mayfair and the two-star Simply Nico was rebadged as Nico Central whilst Nico at Ninety later became Chez Nico, as which it won three stars in 1995. Four years later, he asked Michelin to exclude his restaurants from the guide claiming that “working in a threestar restaurant is very restrictive and people do not want to eat very expensive food. You cannot fool

around in the restaurant if you have three stars and I want to make it more relaxed.” However, he continued to open more restaurants in London: Incognico in 2000 and Deca in 2002. A year later, he decided to retire fully from the business, but his two daughters remained involved in both businesses.

Chez Nico, under Ladenis, remains one of only seven restaurants in the UK (as of the 2013 edition) to have received the maximum score of ten out of ten by the Good Food Guide. He was the first selftaught chef to earn three Michelin stars.

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CHEFS / face to face

Sharp as steel Sheffield-born Chef Jason Atherton grew up in a caravan park, failed at school and ran away to London at 16 to work in a kitchen. Passion and hard work led him, via Marco Pierre White and Pierre Koffmann, to the top of Gordon Ramsay’s empire, including time at Verre, which has since evolved into table 9. In less than five years, he has built his own global empire and is currently working on the launch of Marina Social in Dubai.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

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face to face / CHEFS

E

ven over the phone, the energy is evident.

“I’m like a dog with a bone - I don’t let go,” says Chef/Restauranteur Jason Atherton from his global base in London.

He’ll need that energy - this year sees three major restaurant launches in New York, Sydney and the much delayed Marina Social in the as-yetunfinished InterContinental in Dubai Marina.

He’s come a long way in the 14 years since he was hired by Gordon Ramsay and the launch chef for Verre in the Dubai Hilton - Ramsay’s first nonUK venture. At the time, it revolutionised Dubai dining and nobody had seen food like it in the city.

When he moved back to London to launch Maze and other chefs followed - Angela Hartnett, Scott Price, Nick Alvis and, now, Darren Velvick - he had clearly set the bar.

However, in his life, he has travelled an amazing distance. Self-confessed “dreadful” at school, he grew up on a caravan site in Skegness, whose marketing slogan for itself for many years was “Skegness is SO bracing” mainly because of cold winds that blew straight through the town from Siberia via the North Sea. His mother was a hotelier and her husband a joiner. One day, by chance, he came across a secondhand copy of Dining in France, which changed his life. He had never realised, he said later, that food could be like that.

Now with a purpose in life, whilst his parents were away on holiday he ran away to London aged just 16 and got a lowly job in a kitchen. Fired by the atmosphere, he trained at Boston College, less

than 20 miles from Skegness Lincolnshire, plus with the Army Catering Corps, which he hated.

After time working for Pierre Koffmann, Nico Ladenis and Marco Pierre White, amongst others including a brief spell with Ferran Adriá, he joined Gordon Ramsay Group in 2001 as the Executive Chef for Verre in Dubai, lasting four years before he returned to London to open Maze. Over the next five years, he helped launch Maze in Prague, Maze Grill in London and other Maze outlets in Cape Town, Melbourne and Qatar. He was the star of Gordon Ramsay empire and leading UK food critic Fay Maschler had this to say of him: "Should you hold a knife to my throat and force me to say which one of the chefs in the Gordon Ramsay group I thought was the best, my answer would be Jason Atherton. Actually, I'd admit it without any coercion."

However, after a decade as Ramsay’s right hand man, the pair had a notorious falling out.

Atherton’s comments since reveal feelings that are clearly still mixed. The negative: “Try spending ten years working for Gordon Ramsay. People think prison's tough, but compared to working for Gordon it'd be a breeze.” And the positive: “I learnt a lot working for Gordon, he helped me be the complete restaurateur. Being a chef is one thing, running a business is completely different.”

His flagship restaurant Pollen Street Social opened in April 2011 in Mayfair and was awarded a Michelin star within just six months of opening.

It was also awarded four A4 Rosettes by the AA

ROAST DUCK BREAST WITH MINI ROAST POTATOES, TURNIPS, BEETROOT AND CARROT PUREE SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS 4 duck breasts sea salt 3 tbsp duck or goose fat 2 small garlic cloves, peeled and finely crushed 4 sprigs of thyme, leaves only 1 tsp sea salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 12-16 mini potatoes, rinsed 4 small golden beetroot 4 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced 8 baby turnips 200ml duck jus 2 tbsp olive oil

∙ Roast the golden beetroot on a baking tray in the

METHOD ∙ Preheat the oven to 200C. ∙ Melt the duck fat in a saucepan, then add the garlic, thyme, salt and pepper. Take the pan off the heat.

Place the potatoes in a roasting tray, pour over the duck fat mixture and toss to coat. ∙ Roast the potatoes in the hot oven for about 45-60 minutes, until they are golden brown and cooked through.

same oven, for around 25 minutes or until soft.

Remove and allow to cool before removing the skin.

Cut each beetroot into four or five pieces and set aside. ∙ Put the carrots into a pan and pour in enough cold water to cover. Add a generous pinch of salt to the pan then bring the water to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the carrots for about 15-20 minutes until soft. Drain the carrots, reserving a little of the cooking water and tip them into a food processor. Blend to a

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Guide, named The Good Food Guide's Best New Restaurant and hailed the sixth best restaurant in the UK. Other restaurants followed quickly: tapas bar Esquina, Pollen and The Library in Singapore; 22 Ships, Ham and Sherry and Aberdeen Street Social in Hong Kong; Social Commune in Shanghai; and four more outlets in London - Little Social, Social Eating House Berners Tavern and City Social.

Pollen Street Social, Social Eating House and City Social hold one Michelin star each.

Dubai’s not the same city you worked in all those years back, is it?

No, there’s been a complete transformation.

At that time, if you told someone in Dubai that you were a chef, you were frowned on because they thought you worked in a villa for a famiy.

Now people understand the importance of fully qualified chefs and it’s a whole new ballgame.

Everyone now embraces good food. I’ve also been hearing about Emirati chefs and I think that’s a great advance because the food scene shouldn’t just be about importing talent. I’ve been really enjoying my time in Dubai lately.

Why did it take so long to think about opening a place here?

To be homest, it was just an opportunity that came up rather than being part of a masterplan. People from InterContinental came to see me and I liked the standard of what they’re trying to achieve. I’ve always been fascinated by the rise of Dubai Marina

smooth purée, adding a tiny splash of cooking water if necessary. Pass the purée through a fine sieve into a bowl. Cover with cling film and refrigerate if making in advance. ∙ Wash the turnips well and place in boiling salted water for ten minutes or until soft. Drain and set aside until needed. ∙ Lower the oven temperature to 190C. Score the skin of the duck breasts then season well with salt and pepper. Put the breasts, skin side down, in a cold ovenproof pan then place the pan over a very low heat. Gently cook the breasts for about eight minutes until the fat beneath the skins has been rendered and the skins are golden brown and crisp. Flip the duck breasts over to cook the flesh side for about two minutes until golden brown. ∙ Place the pan into the hot oven to finish off cooking.

Roast for about three to four minutes or until the breasts are cooked to medium-rare. Remove the pan from the oven and rest the breasts for four to five minutes. ∙ Heat the duck jus in a small pan. Reheat both the turnips and the beetroot in separate pans with a little olive oil. Gently reheat the carrot purée in a small pan. ∙ Slice the duck breasts. Place spoonfuls of carrot purée on plates and top with duck slices. Arrange the roast potatoes, beetroot and turnips around them and spoon over the duck jus.

February 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / face to face

so really it was just a case of perfect timing.

The delays in opening much be frustrating though.

It’s life. There are always frustrations but you just have to take them in your stride. The only real issue is that it’s added stress in a year when we have both New York and Sydney opening. I don’t open restaurants just for the sake of it, but because I want them to be good. I want to be at the top.

I have to be one of the best - for example, I can never just watch food go out that’s not exactly right.

If you hadn’t found that book on French food as a teenager, what do you think you’d be doing now?

I don’t know. I think I have hospitality in the blood and you do it to make people happy. If I have a miserable chef, I send him home. What’s the point otherwise? I have to share my passion for what I do. At school, to be honest, I struggled. I was a bag of trouble but I’m determined. For example, when I worked at Verre I took up golf and it took me just two and a half year to get an 8 handicap - I think around town I was better known for my golf than

for the food! Really, I’m like a dog with a bone when I focus on something.

Do you see the same level of passion in younger chefs today?

Look, it’s the same as in every industry - people want instant results. The reality is, however, that it takes a long time to learn your craft properly. You can’t just download an app and become a Sous Chef. So when I started it was tough, it was what it was but I still believe that training has to be strict to bring people up to a standard. They have to own that standard.

What are the key changes you’ve seen in produce availability since you were here before?

There have been great advances, especially the holding system at the airport. There are much better systems and there’s more esily available from the region. I’m very excited to get back to it.

Key trends for 2015?

I believe people want good food but also as much value for their money as possible.

Do you think Dubai is ready for Michelin?

Yes, certainly. Dubai is a real international city now. A decade or so back, there were four or five restaurants that could compete on an international scale now every chef under the sun wants to come here. It’s bang up to date too - what’s happens in New York happens in Dubai almost at once. So I think in Dubai now we’ll see a real emphasis on good value, tasting menus and more relaxed nights out. It’s great to hear that food trucks are taking off too - I believe there’s going to be massive demand. In fact, we’re discussing having a Marina Social truck, which would be great PR for the restaurant.

What’s the date for the opening now?

September 1st. We could open sooner but with Ramadan and the summer, we thought we’d wait.

Expect a big launch!

And you’re back next month for Dubai Food Festival?

Yes, it will be my first time cooking in public here and I’m really looking forward to it. I’ll be doing three or four dishes - I can’t wait!

BLOOD ORANGE GRANITA WITH CREME CHANTILLY AND CANDIED LIME SERVES 4-6 GRANITA INGREDIENTS 75g caster sugar 75ml water juice of 12 blood oranges (about 1 litre of juice) 200ml champagne (or dry sparkling wine) METHOD ∙ Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan and stir over a medium heat until sugar is dissolved.

Simmer for a couple of minutes, then pour into a large bowl and leave to cool completely. ∙ Add the orange juice and champagne to the syrup.

Stir well, then pour the mixture into a large, shallow, freezer-proof container. ∙ Seal and freeze for an hour, then remove and stir the ice crystals around the edge of the container with a fork. Repeat the freezing and stirring until the entire mixture consists of ice crystals. Freeze until ready to serve.

CANDIED LIME INGREDIENTS 2 unwaxed limes 50g caster sugar 125ml water METHOD

∙ Thinly slice off the zest of the limes without taking in

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

any white pith. If you do get some white pith on the zests, slice it off with a small sharp knife. ∙ Stacking a few at a time, thinly slice the zest into thin matchstick strips. Put these into a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil then immediately drain the zest and return to the pan. ∙ Add the sugar and water and bring to a simmer, stirring to help the sugar dissolve. Simmer over a medium heat for 60-75 minutes until the zest is soft. ∙ Remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool completely. Drain the lime pieces and spread out on a piece of kitchen paper to dry.

CREME CHANTILLY INGREDIENTS 200ml double cream 25g icing sugar 1 vanilla pod, split in half, seeds scraped out with a knife METHOD ∙ Combine the cream, icing sugar and vanilla seeds into a large bowl. Whisk to soft peaks then set aside. ∙ To serve, spoon the Crème Chantilly into chilled bowls and top with the granita. Decorate with the candied lime and serve immediately.

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face to face / CHEFS

“I don’t open restaurants just for the sake of it, but because I want them to be good. I want to be at the top. I have to be one of the best - for example, I can never just watch food go out that’s not exactly right.”

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February 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / face to face

Scaling up When three of your first four professionals kitchens belong to the top three British chefs, then your career starts with a bang. However, Rosalind Parsk, Head Chef at Pierchic, dimisses the opportunities as just ‘incredible good luck’. Long may it continue.

G

rowing up as part of a large family in Surrey in the South-East of England, Chef Rosalind Parsk gained her love of food cooking with her grandmother.

After just a week in a professional kitchen, she decided to train as a chef and then worked in quick succession for Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay (via Angela Hartnett) and Gary Rhodes.

She joined Pierchic as Chef de Cuisine in September 2012 and has played an intrinsic role in Pierchic's recent refurbishment collaborating with consultant Chef Laurent Gras to create an entirely new menu. Now Pierchic's Head Chef, she leads a brigade of 28 chefs.

Where did you grow up?

Near Epsom in Surrey. I love going back though

not for the cold weather. I think when you go back home you appreciate it all the more. I was one of seven children so you can imagine we used to have to fight to get food. My parents were both very busy but luckily my grandmother lived nearby and she’d take one of us for a day every week, so at least we’d get spoilt once a week! When I spent time with her, we’d always do something related to food - making cakes or whatever.

This would have been traditional food, I guess.

Yes, as it was at home. Anyway, I got to enjoy being around food and when the time came to do work experience from school I got a position in a small restarant near Piccadilly Circus - one week as a waitress and one in the kitchen. And I just really

enjoyed the buzz so decided to go to college ad spent three years at Westminster Kingsway College.

Did you specialise in anything?

Not specially. We weren’t brought up to eat out but now I was in London, I was eating whatever I could and that really opened my eyes to the whole industry. Anyway, I was one of a number of students chosen to take part in a TV series back in 2003, Yes Chef! We were allocated two per restaurant and I was lucky to be assigned to Marco Pierre White’s The Belvedere under Matthew Brown. At first, he would really challenge me head to head peeling of langoustines, for example, until my fingers were bleeding. But I refused to give up and, after a couple of weeks, he became a mentor. I ended up winning the whole series!

Did you interract much with Marco?

Not really but I learned a lot from Matthew.

Anyway, I did six months after the TV show at the restaurant and learned a lot.

Why didn’t you stay?

The College had already sorted me out working for Gordon Ramsay at Michelin-starred Menu and The Grillroom within The Connaught, under Angela Hartnett and Neil Ferguson. Angela was great she’d be in the kitchen every day, often right at the start of prep. She’d be on the passe and then helping out on a section - it was a lovely time and I learned so much.

Key Lime Citrus Tart

“We certainy want to change the menu as the seasons change globally, using the specials menu to experiment with. What I want to do with our suppliers is to have them helping us to push the boundaries and be bang up to date.”

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

How different did you find the styles of Marco and Gordon?

Despite Gordon training under Marco, they were very different. Under Gordon, although he was really more of a presence, I learned real standards of perfection. It was all about absolute precision and if you didn’t chop vegetables properly, then went in the bin. Their cuisines are different too Marco is Italian, Gordon more French. Honestly, I feel so privileged to have worked for both them and Gary. Nothing about my career has been planned - it’s been pure luck and just amazing!

So why did you leave The Connaught?

Actually, I followd my boyfriend to Dubai! We’d

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face to face / CHEFS

Lobster Bisque

Roasted Wagyu Beef Tenderloin

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Roasted Yellow Tail

February 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / face to face

Dover Sole Meuniere had three holidays in Abu Dhabi in the past so I sort of knew the place. He had a job at Grosvenor House and, talking to his boss, I learned that Gary Rhodes was opening Rhodes Mezzazine and that it migt suit me. Working on a start up was amazing Gary was right there in the kitchen every day, very hands on and it was a great learning experience. It was really my first experience in a hotel restaurant, although at college I’d done a couple of weeks work experience in Las Vegas and a couple of weeks helping out around Le Royal Meridien.

Very instructive to learn that diference between a hotel and restaurant. I spent 18 months at Rhodes Mezzanine as Chef de Partie with Chef Paul Lupton and by that time I felt I’d done all I could.

Where next?

A change of pace! I took a job as Sous Chef at the members only Capital Club in DIFC, leading a team of seven chefs. It was a different concept with different cuisines but it gave me the opportunity to learn managerial skills, how to deal with suppliers and so. I was there for two years and then, realising the way Dubai was moving, I shifted to Cavalli Club again as Sous Chef - a very busy place.

Maybe not a place where people go primarily for the food‚.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

No, but it’s a fun place and people like to enjoy themselves, but the food can be serious. Anyway, just over a year later, I made the move to Jumeirah.

I’d eaten at Pierchic when I first came to Dubai and then the job just came up and I thought it was a great opportunity for me. Why not? I was never particularly fish orientated as a chef before I saw it as a great challenge.

How adventurous can you be with your diners? How much local produce do you use?

We’ll always need the classics like sea bass and lobster, but we’ve recently put on yellowtail and people are ordering it. Local fish? Not really, though we’ll have local barramundi or Omani lobsters on the specials. The standard local fish?

No, we can’t guarantee consistency.

Has it ever worried you that Pierchic is perhaps seen more as a romantic restaurant than a seafood one?

Not really. We’ve won mot romantic restaurant, of course, but we’ve also been nominated several times for best seafood. And now we’ve had our relaunch, I think we’re going to do great things!

Do you get people demanding hammour although, of course, you don’t offer it?

Quite honestly, nobody has ever asked for it.

What was the thinking behind the relaunch?

It was time to step back and think about starting again to be the best fish restaurant iN Dubai.

How do you see it moving forward?

We certainy want to change the menu as the seasons change globally, using the specials menu to experiment with. What I want to do with our suppliers is to have them helping us to push the boundaries and be bang up to date - they should be part of the creative process.

Are you a fan of molecular?

I think it has its place, but it’s best when it’s an experience. I remember a meal at Eleven Madison Park Restaurant in New York - everything in a picnic basket! But that’s not everyday, is it?

Where do you enjoy eating out? And what do you see as the key dining trend of the year?

Honestly, I don’t eat out much! I’m enjoying the mix at Pier 7, which I think is very much with the times. Zuma on a Thursday is great. And I liked Mekong at Anantatara on The Palm. My top trend?

I think less fussy food with simple flavours, but done well.

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CHEFS / face to face

HOME MADE SMOKED SALMON WITH SOUR CREAM SAUCE AND SALMON CAVIAR SERVES 1 HOME MADE SMOKED SALMON INGREDIENTS 100g fresh salmon fillet 80g sugar 80g salt METHOD ∙ Mix the sugar and salt, cover the bottom part of a small container or tray, place the salmon fillet in it and cover completly with this mixture. ∙ Cover the container completly with cling film and make a small hole. ∙ Put wood in a smoke gun and put the tube inside the hole for five minutes until the container is full of smoke. Cover the hole and marinade for 24 hours. ∙ After 24 hours repeat the smoke process and remove the salt and sugar mixture. Reserve.

Luis Salgueiro After an extensive career in his native Portugal, Chef Luis Salgueiro moved to Dubai to open the authentic Portuguese outlet Picante at Four Points Sheraton.

He’s now at the helm of Alto Mar (‘high sea’ in Portuguese), a Mediterranean seafood restaurant in the new complex at Dubai’s Fishing Harbour in Jumeirah.

FENNEL SALAD INGREDIENTS 50g fennel 5g sugar 5ml white balsamic 5ml raspberry vinegar salt and pepper to taste METHOD ∙ Julienne the fennel, add all the remaining ingredients and mix well. Reserve.

SOUR CREAM SAUCE INGREDIENTS 9ml sour cream salt and pepper to taste 3ml lemon juice METHOD

∙ Mix all the ingredients. Reserve.

GARNISH INGREDIENTS 5g salmon caviar 3 apple capers 1 radish TO ASSEMBLE

∙ Cut the salmon into thin slices and place on a plate with the sour cream in the centre and the fennel salad on top. Garnish with apple capers, thin slices of radish and the salmon caviar.

SCALLOPS AND ASPARAGUS ‘RISOTTO’ SERVES 1 INGREDIENTS 200ml water from the asparagus

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

www.cpimediagroup.com

face to face / CHEFS

80g arborio rice 20g chopped asparagus 20g butter 20g shallots 5g garlic 1 bay leaf salt and pepper to taste 40ml olive oil 40g parmesan 50g scallops garnish 100g scallops

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20ml olive oil 10g fleur de sel pepper to taste 3g butter 10ml lemon juice METHOD

∙ Boil the asparagus and then reserve the asparagus and also the water separately.

∙ Chop the asparagus, the shallots, the garlic and 50g of scallops. Reserve.

∙ Heat a pan with olive

oil, add the shallots, garlic and

the asparagus, then fry for one minute before adding the rice and letting it fry for one more minute. Then add the asparagus water (triple the rice quantity) and let it cook on a slow fire. When almost cooked add the butter, parmesan cheese and season with salt and pepper. ∙ Meanwhile, place the olive oil in a sauté pan, add the remaining scallops, season and sauté on both sides.

At the end, add the butter and the lemon juice and finish with the salt. Reserve. ∙ Place the risotto on a plate, garnish with the sautéed scallops and two sticks of asparagus.

February 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / recipe corner

in a small pan or deep fryer until it reaches a golden brown colour. ∙ In another mixing bowl, place the shredded cabbage along with the fresh coriander, fresh chopped garlic, lime juice and season with salt. ∙ To serve, put the shredded cabbage mix on a plate as a bed, place the fried squid on top and garnish with the red blood orange reduction and the orange wedges.

CHILE ANCHO FLOUR MIX INGREDIENTS 400g all-purpose flour 60g chilli ancho powder 40g paprika sea salt, to taste METHOD

∙ Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl BLOOD ORANGE REDUCTION INGREDIENTS 500g blood orange puree 50g chipotle puree 100g lemon juice sea salt, to taste METHOD ∙ Put all the ingredients together in a pan. ∙ Bring to the boil and reduce the mix by half.

CHURROS

Richard Sandoval Widely hailed as the chef who brought traditional Mexican cooking up to date, Chef Richard Sandoval is constantly on the move, expanding his taste profiles as he explores other cuisines and co-operates with other chefs. His latest venture is in Dubai: Zengo, a Mexican-Singaporean fusion concept with Chef Akmal Anuar.

CALAMAR AZTECA SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS 800g squid, cleaned and cut into rings 150g Chinese cabbage, shredded 100g red cabbage, shredded 500g chile ancho flour mix 100ml chipotle - red blood orange reduction

50ml lime juice 10g garlic, chopped 5g coriander, chopped sea salt, to taste 1 orange, cut into wedges METHOD ∙ In a mixing bowl, place 500g of the chilli ancho flour, add the cut squid and coat really well. Fry the squid

SERVES 4 INGREDIENTS 400ml water 100ml milk 300g flour 4 eggs 5g salt 100g sugar 100g unsalted butter 50g sugar, for garnish 10g cinnamon powder, for garnish chocolate/hazelnut ice cream, to serve (optional) METHOD ∙ Heat the water, milk, salt, sugar and butter in a pan but do not boil. ∙ In a bowl, combine the flour with the milk and water mix until is well mixed, then mix in the eggs. Leave the mixture to cool. ∙ Put the dough into a piping bag and pipe long narrow strips into a deep fryer or pan with hot oil. Fry until they turn golden brown. ∙ Dust the churros with sugar and cinnamon powder and optionally serve with ice cream.

“Everyone still thinks Tex-Mex is what our cuisine is all about - tacos and burritos.

Mexican food is incredibly diverse and regional and you really need to understand the ingredients and how to use them. My passion is still to create dishes that people understand. We have an amazing cuisine - it deserves more attention.”

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

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recipe corner / CHEFS

Calamar Azteca

Churros

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February 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / recipe corner

Chef Luca Zanchetti From the Italian region of Marche, Chef Luca Zanchetti, Head Chef of Sapori di BiCE, loves traditional Italian cuisine and is passionate about using natural and organic ingredients. His career has spanned Russia, France, Greece and USA, before he joined the BiCE Group. He believes in using ingredients that are the freshest of its kind and loves experimenting with the latest culinary techniques.

FAGIOLINI E PATATE INGREDIENTS 250g green beans 500g potatoes 20g pesto 10g parsley salt and black pepper to taste 30ml extra virgin olive oil 10ml lemon dressing METHOD ∙ Peel the potatoes, cut into regular cubes and boil in salted water. Drain when cooked. ∙ Cut the green beans into regular pieces and and boil in salted water. Drain when cooked.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

∙ When the vegetables are cold, mix with chopped parsley, pepper, lemon dressing and extra virgin olive oil. ∙ Serve on a plate the pesto sauce for decoration.

ORATA AL CARTOCCIO INGREDIENTS 600g sea bream fillet 300g potato 10g unsalted butter 40ml apple juice 3g dill 3g rosemary

3g parsley 3g thyme 40ml lime 8 artichokes 10ml extra virgin olive oil METHOD ∙ Marinate the sea bream fillet in apple juice, thyme, lime, dill and extra virgin olive oil for one hour. ∙ Peel the potatoes then cut in thin regular slices and roast. ∙ On baking paper, put a layer of potato, salt and pepper, then the sea bream fillet and finish with a slice of artichoke. Add fresh thyme, salt and pepper.

Close the paper and bake in the oven at 175C for 12 minutes.

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recipe corner / CHEFS

Fagiolini e patate

Orata al cartoccio

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February 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / face to face

rainbow maki METHOD

∙ Slice all the seafood required. Set aside. ∙ Wash your hands and make the nigiri sushi. Set aside. ∙ Assemble the plate and garnish with cucumber, tsuma shredded daikon, kogiku (japaneses flower), oba leaves, bamboo leaves, wasabi and gari shoga ready to serve.

SUSHI RICE INGREDIENTS 1kg cooked rice 200ml vinegar sushi sauce METHOD

∙ Mix sauce and rice.

SUSHI VINEGAR INGREDIENTS 900ml rice vinegar 500g sugar 200g salt 20g konbu METHOD

Chef Takashi Ando

∙ Mix the ingredients. ∙ Sushi vinegar can be kept for up to three days in the fridge.

BEEF AND FOIE GRAS

Chef de Cuisine of Tori No Su, Chef Takashi Ando's distinguished career extends almost four decades and has seen him as head of leading Japanese restaurants throughout Asia including Tokyo, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Beijing and Seoul.

He first came to Jumeirah in 2010 where he spent two years at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray before moving to Jumeirah at Etihad Towers in Abu Dhabi in the hotel's authentic Japanese restaurant. A master at Japan's traditional kaiseki cuisine, he also specialises in nimono (simmered dish) cuisine, fugu (blowfish) as well as creative sushi and sashimi.

KATSOU SHOGA YAKI INGREDIENTS 90g bonito katsou 10g white onion 3g fried garlic 3g fresh ginger 5g myuga (Japanese ginger) 4g bano nigi (Japanese spring onion) 3g sesame seeds 5g sakura mix METHOD ∙ Cut two slice of katsou, season and roll in tempura flour. ∙ Heat a pan and fry the katsou in corn oil until brown.

Set aside. ∙ Heat another frying pan, add the shoga yaki sauce

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

and butter. Cook the katsuo then plate. Garnish with sakura and fried garlic.

INGREDIENTS 70g beef 50g foie gras 2 pieces asparagus 20g inoki 20g bean sprouts 10g shitake mushrooms 20g capcicum METHOD ∙ Season the foie gras then grill until golden brown.

Set aside. ∙ Saute the mixed vegetables. ∙ Cook the asparagus with butter and soy sauce ∙ Grill thin slices of beef. Set aside. ∙ Roll the foie gras in the thin beef slices. Plate and garnish with asparagus.

SUSHI AND SASHIMI PLATTER INGREDIENTS 30g tuna sashimi 30g salmon sashimi 1 botan ebi 30g sea bream 30g hamachi 20g tuna sushi 20g salmon sushi 20g sea bream 20g ika (cuttlefish sushi rice unagi maki

RED WINE VINEGAR SAUCE INGREDIENTS 30ml ketchup 25ml red wine 10ml tonkatsu sauce 5ml Worcestershire sauce 4g sugar 5ml soy sauce salt and pepper to taste METHOD

∙ Mix all ingredients in a bowl.

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face to face / CHEFS

Sushi and Sashimi Platter

Beef and Foie Grass Roll

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Katsuo

February 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / recipe corner

HONEY FUDGE, ASHTHA HONEY CARAMEL CIGAR, GOLDEN BROWN FINE KUNAFA AND ICE CREAM INGREDIENTS 300g date honey sauce 500g ashtha filling 500g ashtha cream 150g brandy snap 150g white chocolate truffles 250g Arabic sweets - kunafa and cashew 75g purple fig 10g fresh mint 0.50ml banoffee ice cream 0.50ml lemon sorbet 5 sheets gold leaf METHOD ∙ Bake the kunafa dough with icing sugar till golden brown. ∙ Layer the kunafa with the ashtha cream and filling. ∙ Stuff the brandy snaps with ashtha filling. ∙ Plate the kunafa and cigars, add the date honey, the rose truffles and figs.

Chef Jouni Ibrahim Chef de Cuisine of Li Beirut, Chef Jouni Ibrahim began his career at Madinat Jumeirah and developed his skill for creating traditional Arabic cuisine with a touch of contemporary elements. After the Burj al Arab as Sous Chef, he joined Jumeirah at Etihad Towers and Li Beirut has since won many awards.

He presents age-old culinary favourites with a twist where ingredients take centre stage and speak for themselves.

DATE HONEY SAUCE INGREDIENTS 500ml date syrup 100ml glucose syrup 10g vanilla beans 150g brown sugar METHOD ∙ Boil the syrups and sugar then add the vanilla beans.

Reduce to a honey consistency then remove from heat and set aside.

ASHTHA FILLING INGREDIENTS 20 slices white bread 150g unsalted butter 450ml Date honey sauce 20ml Caramel glaze METHOD ∙ Boil all the liquid ingredients then add to the bread and blend well. Mix in the butter until it makes a paste. Chill for two hours before use as piping.

ASHTHA CREAM INGREDIENTS 1l cooking cream 1l full cream milk 50g cornflour 500g Akawi cheese 50ml rose water

Honey fudge, ashtha honey caramel cigar, golden brown fine kunafa and ice cream

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

METHOD ∙ Boil cream and milk together then add the cornflour and mix till it thickens. Add the cheese and mix well. ∙ Take it off the heat, add rose water, cool and then move to chiller to set up.

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recipe corner / CHEFS

Poached Atlantic lobster, with smoked eggplant baba ganouj, caviar and dill pistachio dressing

BRANDY SNAP INGREDIENTS 1l glucose syrup 1kg caster sugar 9kg unsalted butter 800g wheat flour METHOD ∙ Boil sugar, glucose and butter together. Remove from heat and add flour, mixing well until it binds. ∙ Keep in chiller overnight. ∙ Spread on a silpat and shape it then bake at 180C for ten minutes.

WHITE CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE INGREDIENTS 100 chocolate truffle shells 500g Ivory chocolate 500ml fresh cream

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METHOD ∙ Heat the cream and add the chocolate. ∙ Pipe into truffle shells CARAMEL GLAZE INGREDIENTS 1.25kg caster sugar 45g gealtine leaves 900ml fresh cream 75g cornflour METHOD ∙ Making caramel is a fast process that cannot wait for hunting around for ingredients - if you don’t work fast, the sugar will burn. Remember: caramelised sugar will be much hotter than boiling water ∙ Heat sugar on moderately high heat in a heavybottomed two quart or three quart thick-bottomed saucepan. As the sugar begins to melt, stir vigorously with a whisk or wooden spoon. As soon as the sugar comes to a boil, stop stirring - you can swirl the pan a

bit if you want, from this point on ∙ Cool to room temperature then cover with plastic lid or cling film and store it in the refrigerator at 6C.

POACHED ATLANTIC LOBSTER, WITH SMOKED EGGPLANT BABA GANOUJ, CAVIAR AND DILL PISTACHIO DRESSING INGREDIENTS 1 lobster 50g eggplant 1 quail egg 10ml lemon juice 5g mint salt and white pepper to taste 5g mustard 15g pistachio 5g dill 1 tomato 5g parsley 5g caviar

February 2015 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / recipe corner

5g micro cress 20ml olive oil 5g garlic 5g pomegranate 1 medium shallot 1 medium carrot METHOD ∙ To poach the lobster, first chop the shallot and carrot.

Add to a large pan of boiling water, then drop in the live lobster and poach for eight minutes. Remove lobster and transfer it immediately to iced water.

When cool, deshell and cut into cubes then marinate with the dill pistachio dressing. ∙ To make the dressing, roast the pistachioes for ten minutes at 100C. When cool, add mustard, lemon juice, salt and white pepper, then pour in the olive oil and blend. ∙ Grill the eggplant preferably on charcoal. When cooked keep it for 20 minutes to obtain the smoky flavour then peel and wash, Finely chop the eggplant, tomato, mint, parsley and garlic, season, add fresh lemon juice, olive oil, pomegranate and mix well. ∙ Poach the quail egg ∙ Place a tian ring into the centre of the plate and half fill with lobster meat and half with baba ghaouj. Top it with poach quail egg and caviar. Finish with micro cress and dressing

PAN SEARED DIVER SCALLOPS, MOGHRABIA RAGOUT AND ASPARAGUS INGREDIENTS 2 scallops 50g moghrabia (Lebanese couscous) 40g asparagus 50ml chicken stock 15ml cream 10g chickpeas 15g butter 20g mascarpone cheese 20ml olive oil 5g garlic 2g almond flakes 10g parmesan cheese 5g thyme 150g lobster shell 10g tomato paste 20g carrot 20g leek 5g saffron 10ml Pernod 10ml Cognac 10ml white wine METHOD ∙ Wash and soak the moghrabia in water for three

hours.

∙ Soak, drain and boil the chickpeas until tender. ∙ Melt the butter in a saucepan, toast the mougrabia, add thyme and chicken stock then season and bring to the boil. Add the chopped diced asparagus, chickpeas and cream. Finish with parmesan cheese and season to taste. ∙ Make a lobster bisque for the base of the foam.

Crush the lobster shells and fry in a hot pan. Chop the carrot, leek, shallot and tomato then add to the pan when lobsters have turned red and cook for five minutes. Then add the saffron and alcohol. Reduce by half then add the tomato paste and cook out on a low heat for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Then add the cream and bring to the boil. Once boiling, reduce to low and simmer for 90 minutes. Add the stock and bring back to the boil, then pass through a conical strainer and season. In a plastic container, blast chill to +05C for no more than 90 minutes. Store. ∙ Clean the scallops, dry and season. Heat the oil in a nonstick pan and sear the scallops. ∙ Heat lobster bisque, add milk then blend until it foams. ∙ To plate, place the moghrabia ragout along with the diced asparagus in the middle of the plate, top it with the scallop and the asparagus tip. Finish with the foam around the plate and sprinkle toasted almond flakes lightly over the top

Pan seared diver scallops, moghrabia ragout and asparagus

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

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LEISURE / last word

Can’t live without them What are the must-have kitchen tools that every chef should have, apart from a good set of knives, of course? We did a pretty informal survey and came up with the following list of desirables. Do you agree?

What, you only have one whisk? That’s crazy!

Every chef needs a variety - balloon for eggs, French for thick sauces like bechamel and flat for mixing roux. Of course, you know how to use them properly, right?

What separates the pro and the amateur is the whetstone. Knife sharpening is part of a chef’s DNA!

Whilst most home cooks will just use a microplane for zesting a lemon, the pro breaks it out for hard cheeses, nutmeg, garlic, ginger and even chocolate. Where would we be without one?

How are you going to produce velvety soups without passing them through a fine mesh sieve? Your chinois can also be used to strain custard and purees, as well as clear stocks and smooth sauces.

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The Pro Chef Middle East / February 2015

Meat thermometers are a basic tool of the trade, but so too are thermometers for fridge and oven. If your fridge isn’t below 4.5C then bacterial growth will occur. And chefs know that temperature guages on domestic ovens are notoriously unreliable.

What’s your favourite peeler? Chances are it’s a Kuhn Rikon whose peeler ergonomic Y shape enables almost-without-effort vegetable peeling as well as the ability to shave chocolate or parmesan.

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Premiers March 2015 “My philosophy is built around quality ingredients, pure and simple.”

Pierre Gagnaire Three Michelin stars Chef

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ISSUE 36 FEBRUARY 2015

MIDDLE EAST ISSUE 36 FEBRUARY 2015

GLOBAL FOCUS AT GULFOOD | RISING FOOD COSTS - THE IMPACT? | FACE TO FACE WITH CHEFS