The Pro Chef - Edition 41 by The Pro Chef Middle East

PUBLICATION LICENSED BY DUBAI PRODUCTION CITY, DCCA

SPRING 2018

MICHAEL MINA // PIERRE GAGNAIRE // DAVID MYERS // ALEX ATALA // ASHLEY PALMER-WATTS

VOSTIZZA CURRANTS

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CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM THE EUROPEAN UNION AND GREECE

EDITORIAL MANAGING EDITOR: Michael Jabri-Pickett mjp@cpimediagroup.com EDITOR: Sophie Voelzing sophie.voelzing@cpimediagroup.com ONLINE EDITOR: Emma Hodgson emma.hodgson@cpimediagroup.com ADVERTISING DIRECTOR OF SALES: Michael Phillips SALES MANAGER: Carol Owen SALES MANAGER: Liz Smyth SALES EXECUTIVE: CRAIG MUNRO prochef.sales@cpimediagroup.com MARKETING Isabelle Mills marketing@cpimediagroup.com DISTRIBUTION & SUBSCRIPTIONS Rajeesh Nair rajeesh.nair@cpimediagroup.com DESIGN Froilan A. Cosgafa IV FOR OTHER ENQUIRIES, PLEASE VISIT: www.theprochefme.com FOUNDER CPI MEDIA GROUP Dominic De Sousa (1959-2015)

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EDITOR'S NOTE

Welcome During a recent visit to Pierre Gagnaire’s latest Dubai-based opening, Pierre’s Bistro & Bar, I sat in pure contentment whilst snacking on the simplest of ingredients – a warm, crunchy freshly baked French baguette, paired with velvety, creamy butter and a starter dish of cured ham – which came precisely as described, as a plate of cured ham – nothing added, no frills, no garnish, just a fantastic quality ingredient, served its purest form. In all its simplicity, I wondered why this experience had stood out in particular – why enjoying such basic food pleasures had given me such satisfaction. This led me into conversation with several chefs to discuss whether or not ‘less is more’ when it comes to dining out today. Are restaurants over-complicating things? Are we witnessing a return to traditional cuisine, made using classic techniques? “I believe the trend is shifting back to the source and the simplicity of dishes. Less is more. It’s not about how much you can add, it’s about how much you can take away. There’s a lot of emphasis now on the purity of dishes and products. Japan is a leading example when it comes to the simplicity of a dish,” said chef David Myers, who recently opened three F&B outlets at Renaissance Downtown Dubai. It is believed that the worldwide turn towards healthy living is contributing to the return to basics and increased demand for higher-quality ingredients with farm-to-fork traceability. According to Euromonitor, UAE consumers ate 3.3 million tonnes of fresh food in 2017 and the market is predicted to grow in the high single digits this year. Inside this issue, we discuss how such a movement affects operations for F&B establishments across the region, and why staff training and retention becomes more important than ever. Commenting on the matter, Emma Banks, GM of Jumeirah Restaurant Group said: “Product knowledge is key and simply regurgitating the contents of a menu will no longer do. Customers will expect answers around provenance, nutrition, cooking methods and allergens, hence training your teams and retention is key.” Flip to page 38 to hear more on the topic. In this edition, we also hear from Ashley Palmer-Watts on the upcoming opening of Dinner by Heston Blumenthal at the new Royal Atlantis in Dubai, Michael Mina and Richard Sandoval talk international operations and maintaining standards globally, while Alex Atala shares his contemporary Brazilian recipes, and Colin Clague gives us a behind the scenes look at his Dubai-born, homegrown concept, Ruya, which he’ll be opening in London this spring. Enjoy the read,

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Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

CONTENTS

38 UP FRONT 6 NEWS BITES

Culinary news from the Middle East and beyond. From upcoming food events, to ingredient innovation, we cover it all.

10 MOVERS & SHAKERS

We follow the movements of chefs accross restaurant and hotel kitchens in the Middle East, as they enter into new roles.

TRENDING 14 INGREDIENTS

Every issue, we discover ingredients that chefs worldwide are loving, and go to the source to find out more.

54 2

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

18 DUBAI'S FOOD FUTURE

Dubai's top ten food and restaurant trends for 2018.

THE PRO CHEF MIDDLE EAST

CHEFS 23 PIERRE GAGNAIRE

We go one-to-one with one of the world's best chefs, to hear of his new Dubai-based restaurant, Pierre's Bistro & Bar.

26 MICHAEL MINA

Chef Michael is back in Dubai to oversee his latest opening, MINA Brasserie. Here, he tells us more about the concept.

30 COLIN CLAGUE

Talking 'going global', Colin tells of his journey taking a Dubai-born concept, Ruya, to London this Spring.

32 DAVID MYERS

Late last year, David opened three brand new outlets in Dubai. Here, he tells why he choose the UAE as his most recent location.

36 RICHARD SANDOVAL

With 42 restaurants under his belt, we talk international operations and maintaining consistency across countries.

FEATURES 38 SPOILT FOR CHOICE

Industry leaders talk market saturation.

42 TACKLING FOOD WASTE

What can be done to tackle the problem of food waste?

44 GULFOOD 2018

A look-back at the region's biggest trade F&B exhibition in Dubai.

23 ON THE PASS

LEISURE

48 GOING GLOBAL

54 TRAVEL

52 A BITE OF BRAZIL

56 THE LAST WORD

Ashley Palmer-Watts talks successfully turning a restaurant brand into an international business.

Alex Atala shares his contemporary Brazilian recipes that showcase Amazonian ingredients.

Is Fäviken, the two-time Michelin star-earning Sweden-based restaurant, the world’s most isolated, daring dining destination?

We hear the biggest pet-peeves and complaints from serving staff, about restaurant customers.

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

News bites UP FRONT /

Culinary news from the Middle East and beyond

THE MUST-HAVE CHEF’S NOTEBOOK

With limestone pages, it’s waterproof and greaseproof

As a return to tradition takes over restaurants worldwide, kitchen costs are on the rise due to many dishes requiring classic preparation methods. Unfortunately, these methods can be time-consuming and expensive, which is seeing some restaurant owners move to using a combi-steamer. The Rational combi-steamer is easy to use with a built-in ‘self-cooking center’, which recognises the condition, size and quantity of the products using its cooking intelligence. A chef then simply needs to select the food type, such as fish, meat or vegetables, and specify the desired result. The combi-steamer does the rest. The new combi-steamer also saves kitchen space, by making pots and even pans obsolete, and takes up very little space due to its size. As a unit, it covers up to 95% of all common cooking applications, due to its sophisticated combination of steam and convection heat. Steam is used in the temperature range between 30 and 130 °C to stew, poach, blanch and steam. Convection air between 30 and 300 °C is used to grill and bake, whereby the food is uniformly browned, crispy and juicy. And with the combination of steam and convection, the hot, moist cooking environment prevents the food from drying out even at temperatures of up to 300 °C, minimises cooking losses, and ensures even browning on roasts, gratins or casseroles. The result is consistent food quality, up to 70% lower power consumption compared to traditional kitchen appliances and a much lower time requirement. It also does away with extreme conditions such as excessive heat, stress and routine tasks in the kitchen. In short, a combi-steamer quickly becomes the ideal assistant. For more information, see connectedcooking.com.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

Stainproof chefwear Keeping chef whites clean is a constant struggle in the kitchen for chefs, but not anymore with Fabricor’s new line of stain-resistant chef jackets and aprons designed with hydrophobic nanotechnology. The patented garments are said to be both water and stainproof, due to the modified fabric that elevates liquid from the surface, causing them to bead-up and roll off. The garments can be washed in warm water without bleach and softener, and tumble-drying at normal to low heat every few washes reactivates their repellent properties. For more information, visit fabricor.com.

Text SOPHIE MCCARRICK | Photographs SUPPLIED & SHUTTERSTOCK

Quality up, costs down

Created with the input of more than 40 Michelin-starred chefs, especially for the industry, the Stone notebook is durable enough to meet the demands of the toughest kitchen but doesn't compromise on style. From its waterproof stone paper through to its lay-flat design, every feature has been tweaked to maximise practicality, creativity and sustainability. Stone paper lies at the heart of the Stone notebook. Offcuts taken from limestone quarries, that would otherwise go to waste, are churned up to a fine powder and turned into paper. The result is a material that's resistant to water and grease. Butter, wine and oil can simply be wiped off with no stain left on the pages or smudging of the ink, making it a paper born to survive the kitchen – all bound together with the vegan leather cover. Priced at $24 through Kickstarter.com, the Stone also has perforated pages that make it easy for pulling notes out, as well as a conversion chart, a sharpie holder and hidden magnets to keep it stable. The notebook can even be monogrammed with the chef’s initials, or covers can be customised with a restaurant’s branding – ideal for sharing with the whole kitchen team.

Heston to make Dubai debut

THE BEST OF THE BEST

Miele becomes ‘The World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ exclusive appliance partner

The Royal Atlantis Resort & Residences, which is set to open early in 2019, has revealed that ‘Dinner by Heston Blumenthal’ will open at the property. Commenting on the opening, chef Heston Blumenthal said: “I am truly excited about opening in this incredible location. It is not often that an opportunity in such a perfect space comes along. The backdrop is outstanding and the views of the Dubai skyline over the Persian Gulf are quite unique. Ashley [Palmer-Watts] and I are looking forward to creating something quite special for our guests to enjoy”. The upcoming opening of Dinner by Heston Blumenthal will represent the third outpost for the brand, which has sister outlets in London and Melbourne. Set to be located in the heart of the resort, the restaurant will include a dedicated bar, two outside terraces and a private dining room. The restaurant will offer contemporary dishes inspired by historic gastronomic recipes dating back to the 1300’s.

Premium domestic appliances purveyor, Miele, has revealed that its three-year partnership with The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, as the exclusive appliance partner of the international awards organisation and will, among others, present the 'Miele One To Watch’ award to rising-star restaurants in the premium dining scene. 'The World’s 50 Best Restaurants' is owned and organised by the William Reed Business Media group. The ranking is based on the votes of more than 1,000 international experts and highlights current top destinations for their unique culinary experiences. The list and awards also provide an indicator of global trends in haute cuisine. Alongside the worldwide awards which attract the culinary avant-garde each year, two further events – 'Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants' and 'Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants' – have been recognising the distinctive culinary specialities of these two regions since 2013. Miele is now partner of the three awards programmes which take place annually, and also presents the ‘Miele One To Watch' award ahead of the events. This award recognises aspiring talent and identifies restaurants with the potential of being promoted to the list of best restaurants in the near future.

New landlords at The Lion Dubai-based chef duo, Nick Alvis and Scott Price, have taken over The Black Lion at H Hotel, Dubai – renaming it The Lion by Nick & Scott. Known for their popular homegrown concept at Madinat Jumeirah, folly by Nick & Scott, the pair will celebrate English pub classics at The Lion with signatures like sausage rolls with BBQ dip, fish and chips, crushed peas and tartare sauce and hearty beef & Murphy’s pudding with mash and gravy. “We’ve always wanted to be landlords so when the opportunity to take over The Black Lion came our way, it was something we couldn’t really say no to. Myself and Nick are big sports fans so to combine that with our love of food then it’s the perfect mix” said Scott. Backed by local restaurateur, Gates Hospitality, The Lion by Nick & Scott will be the second venue in the ‘Nick & Scott’ portfolio.

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

UP FRON T / N EW S B I T ES

Supporting local produce in Abu Dhabi The Abu Dhabi Farmers Services Centre (ADFSC) have revealed that they will be supplying fresh local produce to Elite Agro, a leading Abu Dhabi producer and distributor of fresh vegetables and fruits. At the recently concluded Global Forum for Innovation in Agriculture exhibition held in Abu Dhabi, an agreement was signed between Nasser Mohammed Al Junaibi, ADFSC acting Chief Executive Officer and Dr Abdulmonem Al Marzooqi, CEO of Elite Agro LLC for the distribution of ADFSC produce through Elite Agro’s retail partnerships. “Both customers and consumers will benefit from this venture as the exposure to high-quality produce grown in the UAE will increase in direct competition with imported produce,” Al Junaibi said. “We aim to increase the farmers’ income through the marketing of their products to consumers in an attractive way. Prior to this stage, we strive to improve these products whether agricultural or animal - so that not only the consumer approves of them, but they also meet and surpass the highest international standards. In addition, it is a move to enhance the competitiveness of domestic produce being a high-quality fresh product,” he added.

UAE butter market is expected to grow at CAGR 3.6% in 2018 The Middle East is the second biggest market for European butter, in volume and value, after the United States. For the UAE only, the butter market is expected to grow at 3.6% in 2018 to reach a market value of $80.6 Million at the end of the year, according to World Dairy Situation, International Dairy Federation. All chefs have incorporated butter in their recipes and foodies consider it as the centerpiece of their tables. But the undeniable asset of European butter is definitely its taste. Butter has pride of place in the best chefs’ kitchens, over 95% of French chefs assert that butter is essential in cooking and baking, and will soon become indispensable on every family table. French dairy specialist, Francois Robin, presented the ‘Butter Kitchen’ at Taste of Dubai recently, accompanied by Chef Charles Soussin – who both came from France especially for the event to demonstrate the uniqueness of European butter and to discuss the increasing demand in the Middle East.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

RECOGNISING CULINARY TALENT IN DUBAI

At this year’s annual Emirates Salon Culinaire hosted during Gulfood 2018, Hospitality by Dubai World Trade Centre (DWTC), took home 37 accolades. A core team of 44 chefs from DWTC participated in the five-day event, demonstrating their culinary skills across multiple categories including ‘fivecourse gourmet dinner’, ‘Emirati cuisine - practical cookery’, ‘an Arabian feast’, ‘ice carving’, and ‘pastry showpiece’. Noteworthy mentions go to the team’s chef Taha Boudhib who secured a gold medal with distinction for his presentation in the ‘cake decoration - practical by Masterbaker’ category, and chef Jayson Cueto who won eight medals including four gold, two silver, one bronze, and one merit. “Salon Culinaire provides an incredible platform for chefs to showcase their creativity and skills when it comes to food preparation and presentation. I am incredibly proud of the hard work our put forth by our chefs,” said Chef Raimund Haemmerle, DWTC’s Executive Chef and team mentor. “In addition to partaking in culinary arts, we are committed to the training and development of our hospitality team, to ensure the provision of premium quality food services and catering solutions to our evergrowing customer base. We have witnessed a steady growth in the demand for catering, especially in the MICE sector, and our team is fully equipped to deliver end-to-end solutions to meet the region’s growing requirements,” he added.

www.fresh-cherry.eu

Explosion of taste!

CAMPAIGN FINANCED WITH AID FROM THE EUROPEAN UNION AND THE REPUBLIC OF BULGARIA

UP FRON T / N EW S B I T ES

UAE’s food landscape is ‘fast changing’

The UAE’s food and beverage landscape is “fast-changing” according to Insignia Worldwide CEO and founder, Gaurav Sinha. Speaking at the Global Restaurant Investment Forum, the F&B expert highlighted several key areas where the UAE had experienced change in recent years, and expected to experience more expansion in the lead up to 2020. According to Sinha, key trends in the report included growth in app usage, health food and a large increase in the role played

by online resources in consumer F&B decision making. Meanwhile, 82% of restaurants have reported “reasonable” booking through apps in the region, said Sinha. A similarly high percentage of people were likely to be influenced by deals, such as The Entertainer app, with 81% of respondents saying they were influenced by 2 for 1 deals and discounts when making booking decisions. Interestingly, those who took part in the study which was conducted in the City Walk area Dubai, said that all though they usually dine out three times a week, it was at mall-based restaurants, while 47% said they would only eat in upscale restaurants on a special occasion. One of the most interesting insights from the study was the growth of health food in the region. Through 2013 to 2016 a significant increase in interest in vegetarian and vegan options was recorded. The report also revealed that the UAE has one of the fastest growing vegan market globally, second only to China. Consumers are also willing to pay a premium for organic and becomes more pronounced with age. Juices and smoothies have also over taken carbonated drinks and ice creams in terms of popularity growth.

Middle East-based restaurants say ‘no’ to plastic straws

As the war on plastic heats up across the region, Jumeirah Restaurant Group is further strengthening its commitment to the environment with the announcement of a company-wide ban on single-use plastic straws, swizzle sticks, stirrers and toothpicks across all its food and beverage outlets.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

Restaurants including The Noodle House, Flow and Pierchic, Al Nafoorah, Pai Thai, Perry & Blackwelder’s, Trattoria Toscana, 360°, Segreto and The Agency are following suit by replacing all plastic with green alternatives. Following this announcement, COYA also revealed that it will also no longer use plastic drinking straws at any of its venues around the world to reduce global consumption and inspire other outlets to do the same. Plastic straws are just the first step in the brand’s eco-move. COYA has committed to stop using plastic stirrers and paper napkins, as well as implementing refillable juice bottles rather than single-use plastic bottles. Cedric Toussaint, Director of Operations, COYA Dubai said, “Reports have shown that plastic straws are a clear example of completely unnecessary single-use plastic that is used for an average of just 20 minutes then discarded. In 2017, COYA Worldwide purchased a total of 300,000 straws. As part of COYA’s global corporate sustainability efforts we have made the decision to no longer use plastic drinking straws, stirrers, juice bottles as well as paper napkins in any of our venues. We hope our commitment will encourage our peers to help reduce plastic pollution, and perhaps inspire our guests to do the same too.”

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ALAIN REGNAULT, EXECUTIVE CHEF

FRANCO BLOISI, EXECUTIVE CHEF

Beefbar Dubai, DIFC

Crazy Fish, DIFC

Chef Alain is the executive chef at the newly opened DIFCbased restaurant, Beefbar. In 1988 Alain graduated with honors from the Culinary school. At the beginning of his career he worked for the restaurant "Le Louis XV" (3-Michelin stars) under the guidance of Alain Ducasse. During 19 years of work in the top-tier restaurants and hotels in the French Riviera, Alain learned the tastes of the most demanding clients. He used to treat Ivanna Trump, Gerard Depardieu, Sharon Stone. In 2000 Alain founded Alain Regnault Private Catering, a company which organized VIP receptions in Cannes, Nice, Monaco. In 2008 Alain felt that it was time to realize one of his dreams. He confounded ArĂ´me catering company, which specializes in creating catering events for both private and business clients in the luxury sphere. Alain, has recently joined the team in Dubai with an opportunity to join Giraudi Group for the newest restaurant on the scene, Beefbar.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

Newly appointed at the recently opened restaurant Crazy Fish, chef Franco was born in south of Italy in a small costal village by the sea. He started his career at the culinary school of Potenza at the young age of 16 years when began his first experience in the southern lands specializing in the use of the freshest products from the Mediterranean seas. In the 90s' he moved to Rome, starting his career as executive chef of the most famous restaurant in the capital called "Assunta Madreâ&#x20AC;?. Assunta Madre reaches international success and hosted many Hollywood stars like Robert de Niro, Al Pacino, Morgan Freeman to name few, conquering also palates of international entrepreneurship among which, Arnaux, Fendi, Flavio Briatore. Flavio Briatore then scouted Franco from Assunta Madre and hired him as executive chef for the opening of Crazy Fish in Monaco, Porto Cervo and now Dubai.

Text SOPHIE MCCARRICK | Photographs SUPPLIED

UP FRON T / MOV ERS & SHAK ER S

REIF OTHMAN, EXECUTIVE CHEF

OLIVIER BELLIARD, EXECUTIVE CHEF

TA VAN NINH, CHEF DE CUISINE

GIULIANO BERTA, HEAD CHEF

Billionaire Mansion, The Taj Dubai

The St. Regis Saadiyat Island Resort, Abu Dhabi

Hoi An, Shangri-La Hotel, Qaryat Al Beri, Abu Dhabi

Nineteen, Address Montgomerie

Olivier Belliard, the new executive chef, is now overseeing all F&B outlets at the fivestar hotel. Belliard’s career has taken him to Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris and Normandy, as well as deluxe hotels around the world, including The St. Regis San Francisco and The St. Regis Mauritius. Born in France, he has two decades of experience in the culinary field, plus a master’s degree in hospitality management from New York’s prestigious Cornell University. “There are many things happening. Early next year, we will revamp the menu at 55&5th, The Grill and create some new dishes for Sontaya, without deviating from its successful Thai-Chinese fusion style,” he said.

Ta Van Ninh has been appointed as the new chef de Cuisine at Hoi An. Part of the Shangri-La family for more than two years, Ta Van Ninh moved to Abu Dhabi from his role as specialty Asian chef at Kushi Restaurant in Shangri-La’s Le Touessrok Resort & Spa in Mauritius. Ta Van started his culinary journey as a commis for an Italian restaurant in Hanoi, Vietnam. In 2010, he decided to pursue his career in the Middle East in the role of chef de partie for a luxury hotel in Dubai, where he spent four years climbing up the career ladder and becoming the sous chef at a top Asian restaurant. Of his appointment he said: “I’m honoured to be given the reins of the kitchen at such a popular restaurant in Abu Dhabi. It’s great to be given the chance to showcase the flavours of my homeland with a touch of modern cooking.”

Chef Giuliano Berta is the new head chef at Nineteen, a contemporary newly relaunched Mediterranean restaurant located within Dubai’s renowned championship golf course, Address Montgomerie. Hailing from his native Italy, Berta’s passion for cooking is credited to his cultural upbringing centered on food and beverages. In the early part of his career, Berta worked in a number of kitchens in various hotels across Italy, which encouraged his career choice. From working at rustic hospitality properties in his native land to his newly appointed position in Dubai, Berta has cooked his way through Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia and the Philippines, acquiring years of international experience and consequent expertise. Now Chef Berta is excited to bring his culinary prowess passed on to him from his contemporaries, to Nineteen’s menu.

The chef known for The Experience by Reif Othman and restaurant Play, has joined Billionaire Mansion as executive chef and business partner, where he will be working in Japanese restaurant Sumosan. Prior to his time at Play and The Experience, Reif was the regional executive chef of Zuma restaurants overseeing Middle East and Turkey. During his time in the industry, the accomplished chef has racked up numerous Awards, including ‘The Pro Chef Pan Asian Speciality Chef of the Year 2017’ and ‘The Pro Chef Most Innovative Chef of the Year 2017’, plus more.

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

UP FRON T / MOV ERS & SHAK ER S

GAUTIER GASCHI, EXECUTIVE CHEF

LUDOVIC BOUTEL, EXECUTIVE CHEF

MURAT KARA, CHEF DE CUISINE

AHOOD AL OWAISAH, PASTRY COMMIS

La Serre, Vida Downtown Dubai

Moe’s on the 5th, Sheraton Grand Hotel

Meze, DoubleTree by Hilton Resort & Spa Marjan Island

Six Senses Zighy Bay

Ludovic Boutel has been appointed as the new executive chef at Moe’s on the 5th, bringing with him over 12 years of culinary experience. Born and raised in Paris, France, the kitchen was always a safe haven for him even as a child. Ludovic knew at a very young age that being a chef was his passion and lifelong goal. This passion was further fueled by working with some of the world’s most renowned Michelin star chefs, such as Yannick Alleno. Of his appointment, chef Ludovic said: “I love preserving natural flavours, sourcing seasonable produce and creating the most unexpected amalgamation of textures, yet by staying true to Moe’s on the 5th cuisine, which is full of flavours that capture the aromas of some of the finest restaurants in Paris and New York”.

Chef de cuisine Murat Kara was recently appointed at Meze to showcase flavours of the Mediterranean, Turkey and the Middle East. Chef Murat said: “I am thrilled to take on this new responsibility and develop creative new dishes using some of the finest ingredients that will make the dining experience at Meze very special for our guests.” Prior to his position at Meze, chef Murat was the executive chef at Italian restaurant Frattelia La Buffala in Dubai, and he also served as head chef at Bosporus Restaurant where he managed the F&B requirements of both restaurants. He also worked as a sous chef with the Shangri La Hotels and Resorts.

La Serre, Dubai has announced the appointment of Gautier Gaschi, as the new executive chef. Chef Gautier brings nearly 16 years of culinary experience. Originally from France, Alsace, he started at L’auberge De L’il, a 3-Michelin star. He then joined chef Alain Ducasse in Paris at Plaza Athene, another 3-Michelin star. Gautier later joined the Green House team a 2-Michelin star in London, before returning to Paris, where he joined Pavillon Lodoyen a 3-Michelin star by Yannick Alleno. Chef Gauthier with chef Alleno made a move to Dubai as Executive chef at STAY by Yannick Alleno at One & Only The Palm. Now, at La Serre, chef Gautier looks forward to further exploring his creativity in French cuisine and is excited to challenge his creativity - “I believe in staying true to the country’s cuisine, never confusing flavours and am excited to provide guests with the best that Dubai has to offer.”

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

Six Senses Zighy Bay is celebrating their first female pastry commis in the kitchen; Omani national, Ahood Al Owaisah. In her new role, Ahood will be developing her dessert and sweet-making skills in the main kitchen, while making tasty traditional and international treats for resort’s visitors. “At Six Senses Zighy Bay not only do I get to share my passion for sweet things with our guests, but I also get to learn how to make healthier desserts and experiment with new recipes or update traditional ones,” said Al Owaisah. Six Senses Zighy Bay is encouraging more women to apply to their vacancies and develop their career in the hospitality sector. The sustainable resort has been welcoming applicants from Oman Tourism College and the National Hospitality Institute.

WALTER MELO, HEAD CHEF

DANIEL PEREZ, HEAD CHEF

Peyote Dubai, DIFC

El Sur, The Westin Dubai Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina

Mexican-born Head Chef Walter Melo brings 14 years of experience to the kitchens of Peyote Dubai. In his role, Walter is responsible for bringing the vibrant flavours and social dishes of modern Mexican cuisine to DIFC. Walter started his culinary life by gaining a degree in gastronomy at the Colegio Superior de Gastronomia. In 2003, he won a place in the kitchens as a banquet chef at Corporacion Quartz S.A de C.V specialising in large scale events, before moving on to managing a group of ‘El Globo’ bakeries. In 2009, he became executive chef for the Hookah Group in Mexico City, then executive chef again for the successful Mexican restaurant group Chuchito Pérez. Moving to the US, Walter spent a year at popular European restaurant The Grill at Leon Springs in Texas before making the move back to Mexico to cook at Maravilla Los Cabos.

El Sur, the Spanish restaurant located in the Westin Hotel, has appointed Daniel Perez as its new head chef. Andalucía-raised Daniel began his gourmet career from a young age in traditional Spanish kitchens, which helped him climb the ranks from demi chef to chef de partie and head chef throughout Spain and Dubai. His first UAE stint included a two-year position at Crowne Plaza Dubai and three years as chef de partie at El Sur before being promoted to head chef recently.

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UP FRON T / TREN D I N G

WHITE ASPARAGUS

nown as the vampire vegetable (because it never sees sunlight during growth), white asparagus makes a brief appearance once a year during spring. Only seasonally on the menu, the white asparagus season usually ranges from late April to June. These in-demand colourless spears are grown underground, covered in mounded dirt or sometimes in black plastic tunnels built by growers, so that they are never exposed to any light. By avoiding sunlight, white asparagus donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t produce chlorophyll, which is what makes green asparagus, green. This rare spring delicacy is subtle in flavour and less bitter when compared to its green counterpart, and boast a slightly sweet taste. Freshness is very important when cooking this vegetable, and the lower ends of white asparagus must be peeled before cooking or raw consumption. Most commonly, white asparagus are served simply with hollandaise sauce, after they have been boiled in a large skillet for approx.. 15 minutes, or until very tender.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

KOBE BEEF

Text SOPHIE VOELZING | Photographs SHUTTERSTOCK

uttery, melt-in-your-mouth, velvety Kobe beef is a sought-after delicacy that comes from the Tajima strain of Japanese Black cattle, raised in Japan's Hyõgo Prefecture according to rules set out by the Kobe Beef Marketing and Distribution Promotion Association. The meat is fatty, well-marbled and is known for its intense, rich flavour and is generally considered one of the three top brands that are known as Sandai Wagyuu, Matsusaka beef and Õmi beef or Yonezawa beef. According to Ryusaku Hayashi, managing director of Middle East Fuji LLC, a supplier of Kobe beef to the UAE, “Kobe beef sales have risen 500% in UAE during 2017 and are also expected to increase 300% in 2018. We believe the number could triple in 2018 as demand for the beef rises”. “Our biggest demand at the moment comes from the Royal family and Kohantei Restaurant at Dubai Opera,” he added. Kobe beef can now also be found at the newly-opened restaurant, Beefbar Dubai in DIFC. When serving, Kobe beef can be prepared as steak, sukiyaki, shabu-shabu, sashimi, and teppanyaki. Japanese cows, also known as ‘Wagyu’, are divided into four breeds – Japanese Black, Japanese Brown, Japanese Poll, and Japanese Shorthorn. Tajima-gyu cows from which Kobe beef comes from belong to the Japanese Black breed. From 7,000 Tajima-gyu cattle only around 5,000 of these cattle are certified as Kobe beef. Wagyu cows are fed a highly nutritious mix of grass and grain. Also, the Kobe beef cows do not receive any unnecessary antibiotic or other injections. Traditionally, Japanese farmers massage their herds to release stress and muscle soreness, and that continues today. Kobe beef currently retails at an average $462 (AED1,700) per kilogram in the UAE.

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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ESCARGOT CAVIAR

ooking for a unique (to say the least) alternative to caviar? Look no further. Escargot caviar, AKA snail caviar or snail pearls, is a version of caviar that is made up of fresh or processed eggs of land snails. The flavour? Earthy, mushroom-like and said to be reminiscent of baked asparagus. They’re also noted as being slightly crunchier in texture than real fish egg caviar. Snail caviar is created when snails are mated in highly controlled environments, that result in eggs that are subject to meticulous selection – a farming method referred to as heliciculture. There’s so much work behind the creation of escargot caviar that its price point lands on par with that of traditional caviar, which can range anywhere from $50 to $3,000 per ounce, depending on the species. Like fish egg caviar, this version can be served with practically all of the same things, such as in soups, on toasts and also by itself with sour cream.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

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DUBAI’S FOOD FUTURE

Dubai’s top ten food and restaurant trends for 2018 and beyond, revealed by Dubai Tourism along with research by food writer Samantha Wood of impartial restaurant review website foodiva.net

ood holds a complex place in our lives. It says something about who we are, what we believe and where we come from. Food trends mirror our connection with food, how we interact with it, and how the industry adapts to our evolving taste buds: whether it’s the classics being reinvented, or newer experimental concepts becoming the latest craze. With dining out as one of the population’s favourite pastimes, whether foodies or non-foodies, each year

Increasingly there is a realisation that one doesn’t need to always pay top dirham to enjoy great quality in an enjoyable setting – affordability is a key decision-making factor when dining out this year.

sees a whole new range of trends coming and going in the food industry. From poke bowls and frozen yoghurt, to the Peruvian food craze, pitch-black foods and heavily Instagrammable avocado on toast, food trends always make for a delicious journey. Then there’s the upsurge in homegrown havens and locally-sourced produce, plus furthered access to experiential dining options and a plethora of food delivery options – these are the trends set to make their mark in Dubai in 2018 and the coming few years.

Ruya Dubai, Grosvenor House

HOME GROWN HAVENS While the past decade has seen Dubai become home to numerous restaurant concepts created by world-renowned celebrity chefs, the effect of the influx of such high international standards to the region has not only inspired an upsurge in quality across the board but has also led to the rise of native talent in Dubai. Over the past few years, we have seen a steady increase in the number of high-quality home-grown concepts spring up around Dubai. This is only set to continue during 2018, with plenty of exciting new independent establishments under development locally by restaurateurs based in the region. These new businesses are a sign of the ever-evolving and maturing restaurant scene in Dubai, also reflecting one of its greatest assets, which is its diversity. The timing is also just right; diners are increasingly looking for an array of locally developed concepts that are well executed. It’s time for local heroes to flourish, paving the way for a city with unique flavours and options that you won’t find elsewhere.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

THE NEW THIRD WHEEL More hotels are working with external specialists for restaurant solutions, which can have a whole host of benefits for everyone involved. With an independently operated restaurant, the restaurateurs are the F&B experts, bringing their knowledge and business acumen to the table, while the hotels can focus on rooms and leisure options amongst others. This strategy gives more diversity to a hotel’s F&B offering for in-house guests, residents of the emirate as well as tourists to the city.

Photographs SUPPLIED & SHUTTERSTOCK

folly by Nick & Scott, Madinat Jumeirah

Bread Street Kitchen, Atlantis, The Palm

THE HIGH-LOW MIX While high-end luxury will always have its place, gone are the days of superlatives where everything needs to be the biggest, best and most glamorous. Echoing global trends for independent, smaller concepts that do not cut corners on quality, this year we anticipate the further rise of mid-priced licensed restaurants in a casual setting. Increasingly there is a realisation that one doesn’t need to always pay top dirham to enjoy great quality in an enjoyable setting – affordability is a key decision-making factor when dining out this year. As a result, we foresee that high-end licensed restaurants will be reserved for special occasions. The ever-growing and increasingly urbanised population of residents, as well as visitors will seek out a more informal setting for casual outings – without wanting to sacrifice on quality.

BANG FOR YOUR BUCK With affordability a key decision-making factor when dining out, residents and visitors are looking for more bang for their buck. The success of culinary promotions has steadily grown over the years, and with developments in technology it is getting easier to give added value dining option to foodies. If it’s not through an app, clever F&B promotions can do the same job, allowing more people to try a greater range of choices within the city’s vast dining sphere. For example, the very popular Dubai Restaurant Week, which is part of Dubai Food Festival gave people the chance to dine at the city’s finest restaurants at irresistible prices.

Jumeirah Lakes Towers, Dubai

Ninive, Jumeirah Emirates Towers

THE ARABIAN FUSION We’ve seen the rise and fall of interest in different types of cuisine, from Peruvian to Balkan and everything in between. In the year ahead, we’re anticipating an increase in the number of both traditional and modern Middle Eastern and North African restaurants, with regional flavours becoming more of a cuisine of choice in Dubai. With homegrown concepts gaining popularity, we will begin to see more Arabian flavours and spices infused into European and Asian cuisines, giving our city its own unique fusion flavour reflective of our cosmopolitan population.

MICRO-DISTRICTS With the evolution that occurs in any growing city, Dubai has blossomed into an emirate with plenty of character across many of its neighbourhoods. Whether JLT, Barsha, or Business Bay, each of these microdistricts comes with its own identity and a plethora of cafes and small eateries spanning every cuisine under the sun. Many “hidden gems” are also cropping up in these newly-developed areas, making them even more covetable places to visit.

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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Deliveroo, premium food delivery service

Dine-in Cinema by Reel Cinemas

EXPERIENTIAL DINING With people becoming ever more conscious of how they spend their free time, diners are now seeking something beyond a traditional restaurant experience. Pop-ups and supper clubs; local and global guest chef appearances at Dubai restaurants; cooking classes paired with a meal; or even live entertainment weaved into the dining experience are all now part of the scope when enjoying an evening out, making it more of an occasion, than a simple meal. Restaurant tours, street food tours, as well as food events like Dubai Food Festival are also making dining more experiential and we see these growing ever more popular in the year ahead.

FEED ON THE GO One of the key signs of any growing city is that its residents get busier. Convenience and affordability go hand-in-hand here, and whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking at takeaways or food deliveries, options offering the chance to save time and hassle are growing at an exponential rate. A multitude of apps deliver restaurant-quality food straight to your home, in an impressively quick time frame. We have also seen a rise in meal plans, chef-forhire services and domestic caterers.

Roast pave of seabass, Galvin Dubai

Deira Fish Market, Dubai

KEEP IT LOCAL

What began as a niche option for those in the know, the farmerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s market scene has steadily grown over the last few years, offering local and sustainable produce to both consumers and trade. Hydroponic vertical farming for micro herbs is also present here, with plans for growth. Local and regional fish and seafood are easily available at the newly revamped Waterfront Market and Umm Suqeim Fishing Harbour. The UAE even boasts its own oyster farm in Dibba Bay that supplies restaurants in Dubai. Dubai-based artisan producers are on the rise, creating original options for everything from coffee, honey, and tea, to chocolate and cheese. This shift towards keeping things as local and sustainable as possible has also seen both restaurants and consumers minimising food wastage a greater priority.

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HEALTH IS WEALTH

People are demanding healthier food both at home, as well as when dining out, with an upswing in the number of health-focused food trends and the demand for more suitable and specialised options. We will continue to see more interest in vegetarian and vegan dishes, while flexitarianism is also on the rise. Consumers are seeking more gluten-free, dairy-free, paleo and low-carb options. Among the key dietary regimes for the year ahead is gut-friendly foods that encourage positive gut health such as probiotics, prebiotics, fermented foods, activated charcoal, turmeric and cumin.

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GAGNAIRE IS BACK

Photographs SUPPLIED

After closing Reflets par Pierre Gagnaire at InterContinental Dubai Festival City over a year ago, chef Pierre Gagnaire has returned to Dubai to open his latest restaurant, Pierre’s Bistro & Bar in its place. In conversation, Gagnaire reveals why “out with the old, in with the new” was necessary. By Sophie Voelzing

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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otably one of the most respected chef ’s in the international culinary industry, Pierre Gagnaire has three Michelin stars under his belt, over 10 successful restaurants worldwide and Le Chef ’s title of ‘best chef in the world’ as his own. In Dubai to oversee the opening of Pierre’s Bistro & Bar, he revealed that instead of refurbishing Reflets, he thought it was time to launch a brand new restaurant. Located on the promenade level at Dubai Festival City with panoramic views over the Dubai Creek, Pierre’s Bistro & Bar is a contemporary chic restaurant, bar and lounge. Although still sophisticated, the venue now presents a more casual vibe than Reflets did. With references to the languid glamour of Parisian bistros, the outlet is decorated with a contrasting colour palette of earthy pinks, greens and golds. The a la carte selection of French fusion cuisine showcases ingredients gathered at their peak of freshness and quality. The menu’s inclusive approach encompasses savoury vegetarian and vegan options with a variety of portion sizes including sharing, traditional and small plates. Here, chef Gagnaire tells more…

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

“We had two options; to refurbish or change the restaurant to something new.”

in Paris our signature dish is with shrimps and in Moscow, our soup is most successful there. Success of food depends on the country. What is popular in London may not be in Shanghai. Location and culture effects the success of dishes. You’ll need to try Pierre’s Bistro & Bar personalised meals to find out for yourself…

Where are the ingredients used in the restaurant mainly sourced from? We’re very excited to hear about the opening of Pierre’s Bistro & Bar. Tell us about the concept… Yes, it’s very exciting to come back to Dubai with this new project. Pierre’s Bistro & Bar is not a concept – it’s a unique experience with good food, service and fun. It’s a brand-new restaurant with my personal touch, personality, and my way to give pleasure to the guest. I don’t like the word ‘concept’. Each one of my restaurants is totally exceptional and different. With concept you have the same décor and food. This restaurant is created especially for Dubai.

What signature, must-try dishes can we expect to find on the menu? It’s not for me to say what the ‘signature’ dish is, it’s the customer. For example,

The ingredients are from Europe specifically Greece, Spain, Italy, Australia and France. There are local resourced vegetables included as well.

When can diners expect to see you at the restaurant next? After the opening, I will typically be in the restaurant twice a year.

Why did you decide to close Reflets and open Pierre’s Bistro & Bar? We had two options; to refurbish or change the restaurant to something new. I felt that it was time to try something new.

So, what made you want to become a chef? Well, my father had a restaurant, and I’m the oldest of my family so that naturally became my job. However, I didn’t like it at first, but after a few years it became my

life and my passion for food started. I didn’t understand initially how working in this industry could open doors for meeting new people and how creative it’d allow me to be. With maturity and experience my appreciation grew.

Passion is necessary to become a great chef then… It is. Technique and skill are important, but not ‘so’ important in the beginning. To be a great chef you need to love people in a way that you desire to cook for them and please them, you must have passion and you must have technique. Technique is something you can learn, but work ethic is not. This comes through pure passion, dedication and wanting to truly learn about something. If you don’t love what you do in the kitchen, your job will feel harder and your working hours will feel longer, because you’re constantly having to push. Whereas when you have natural passion, you want to be there and work becomes so much easier.

Out of all your career achievements which one are you most proud of? I’m proud of my honesty and sincerity. I’m always the same, sometimes I have problems like everyone else. But, I have the energy, passion, pleasure

to share, and honesty to be myself in front of people. With so many pressures around us these days, it can sometimes be difficult to remain true to yourself and not lose your identity.

If you could go back and give your younger self some advice, what would you say? Don’t forget about your family and don’t forget your private life. It’s important to find balance.

How did you find that balance? It’s something I have to work at every day. You must pay attention to the details all the time – put a cross on your agenda and stick to it. You must be conscious every day about this. Especially when children come, otherwise the time will fly. Every detail

is important and you must actively pay attention to the daily needs of your loved ones. Things change, but family is always most important. Life is precious. Live in the now and appreciate what today is, for one day you might look back and realise how happy that time was. It’s easy to get caught up on in work. Don’t take things too seriously.

What’s the best advice you’ve ever received, that you’d offer to an aspiring chef? Be yourself! Take your time, be honest, and respect the people you meet day after day.

For more information about Pierre’s Bistro & Bar, visit pierresdubai.com.

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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ell us about your new concept in Dubai, MINA Brasserie…

MINA Brasserie is a modern, bustling brasserie. The menu is inspired by renowned brasseries from around the world. The menu will feature classic British, European and American favourites, prepared with carefully sourced, seasonal seafood, meat and fish and will offer a decadent list of desserts.

What dishes do you expect to become signatures at the new restaurant? I’m really excited for this menu. A few of my signatures will be on the menu, including my tuna tartare, lobster pot pie, and wood fired steaks. But as far as new signatures, I think the hot buttered shellfish platter, oak fired octopus, and ‘peanut butter and jelly’ foie gras dish will be some new favourites.

THE MAKING OF

MINA

Michael Mina shares news of his new Dubai-based opening, MINA Brasserie at Four Seasons Hotel DIFC, and talks the key to restaurant success. By Sophie Voelzing

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

What has your experience been like finding reliable suppliers in the region, offering high-quality product? We’ve been lucky, and have been able to find some great partners in the region. Having a team on the ground that has been able to do the research, meet the people and purveyors, and talk to other chefs in the area has really helped.

How did you create and hire your culinary brigade at MINA Brasserie? I have been very lucky, and have had one of our talented members of our culinary team move to Dubai to be at the helm of MINA Brasserie. He worked under me for many years and was also with Charlie Palmer for many years who is one of my dear friends and culinary mentors.

Photographs SUPPLIED

Michael Mina Michael Mina's story is one of two decades of influence, passion and achievement, with accolades including James Beard Foundation 'Who's Who of Food & Beverage' inductee in 2013, Bon Appétit Chef of the Year 2005, San Francisco Magazine Chef of the Year 2005, as well as the International Food and Beverage Forum's Restaurateur of the Year 2005. Michael's culinary and business vision led to the founding of Mina Group, with partner Andre Agassi in 2002. Under the auspices of Mina Group, he has opened almost 30 operations including Firebird Diner, Michael Mina, Clock Bar, RN74, Bourbon Steak, Arcadia, Stonehill Tavern, Stripsteak, Wit & Wisdom, Pub 1842, The Handle Bar, Michael Mina 74, Pabu, The Ramen Bar, Bourbon Pub, Locale Market, and Bardot Brasserie.

On a global level, which chef or chefs do you look to for inspiration? Yotam Ottolenghi, Masa Takayama, Nancy Silverton and Joan Roca.

What are the biggest challenges you face operating multiple restaurants in multiple cities around the world? Of course it’s impossible to be in two places at once, and not being able to be in every single one of our restaurants every night is a challenge. However again, that’s where having good team members that I completely trust, has been key to our business.

In today’s competitive F&B industry, what do you think it takes to be a successful chef? Having a talented team of people. Without the many members of our culinary and operations team, we wouldn’t be able to be successful.

What do you predict as the next big trend in cooking and in the restaurant industry? I think global flavours will continue to trend and become more dominate.

If you could open a new restaurant anywhere in the world tomorrow, where would you pick and why? On the coast in Egypt – somewhere in Alexandria or Cairo. I’ve always dreamed of going back there to open a restaurant in my birth country, celebrating my heritage.

Exciting opening of MINA Brasserie aside, can we expect to see any further openings or happenings from the Mina brand any time in the near (ish) future? Yes, our team has been busy. We are opening a Bourbon Steak in Orange County, at the Monarch Beach Resort. We’ve been lucky to be in that space since it opened, and I’m excited to be opening a Bourbon Steak in that community. Additionally, we are opening an International Smoke in Houston, Texas in Spring 2018, and this will be our second International Smoke location. We have a few other exciting openings in 2018 lined up, so it’s going to be a busy year! To find out more about Michael Mina, visit michaelmina.net.

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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GOING

GLOBAL

Breaking boundaries for the Middle East’s food scene, Colin Clague, executive chef of the homegrown Anatolian restaurant Rüya Dubai, is the man launching a Dubai-born concept in England. With the debut of Rüya London fast approaching, Clague reveals what it takes to go international. By Sophie Voelzing

the design for example is done by the same architects, Conran and Partners, who designed the venue here in Dubai. The menu and service will also be the same. We will add some new dishes to the London menu though, as we will be able to source a much larger selection of Turkish items. As you can imagine, it is lot easier to sell sardines in London than it is in Dubai.

Rüya is due to open doors in London soon, which is so exciting! How will the concept fare in comparison to the Dubaibased original?

As I said, I love history and I was lucky enough to open Qbara in Dubai, which was ground breaking at the time being a modern Middle Eastern restaurant. Traveling around and creating dishes from the past and interpreting them in a

The concept will remain mostly identical;

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You must be so proud to be taking a Dubaiborn concept to London – representing a first for Dubai! What advice would you offer to chefs hoping to achieve the same? There were few times where I have come close to export a Dubai concept to Europe. Taking a UAE-based concept abroad is truly something unique. Usually big, established brands would enter the UAE market relying on their strong reputation, whereas we have reversed that trend with this move. Rüya Dubai is a UAE homegrown brand which is set to bring Anatolian cuisine onto an internationally recognised level. To expand a brand globally, you need strong partners who are more like a family; you all share and believe in the same dream and you have to be prepared, along with your families, to give everything necessary and go for the extra mile. It never gets any easier.

Before opening Rüya in Dubai, what made you choose Turkish cuisine? Is it a cuisine you’d worked a lot with in the past? Photographs SUPPLIED

early, the UAE welcomes countless big, international restaurant brands to its inventory, with only a small number of homegrown concepts breaking through onto the market. Rüya, is one of those few Dubaiborn restaurants, which since opening in 2016, has gone from strength to strength, becoming a firm favourite for local and visiting diners. While Dubai is accustomed to a high turnover of imported restaurants, it’s not so used to exporting – and chef Colin Clague is paving the way for change, with his debut of Rüya in London this spring. Managed by the d.ream Group, Rüya London will be located within Grosvenor House Hotel on Park Lane, and represents the next step in accomplishing the brand’s global mission to elevate Anatolian cuisine to an international level. Rüya, meaning dream in Turkish, is the realisation of Turkish restaurateur and entrepreneur Umut Özkanca’s long vision to redefine the conventional perception of Turkish food. Since childhood, it has been his wish to polish Anatolian cuisine to be on a par with French, Japanese and Italian, whilst retaining its original identity. Rüya’s quest to preserve the true DNA of Anatolian food is reflected in each dish, which are prepared according to ancient recipes but presented with a fresh contemporary twist. Talking about the expansion, chef Colin tells us more…

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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"Big, established brands enter the UAE relying on their strong reputation, whereas we have reversed that trend with this move" contemporary way was amazing. When I met my current partners, the Özkanca family from Turkey, they said Qbara was exactly like what they wanted to do with Anatolian cuisine and it started from there.

What would you say your signature dish is at Rüya? There are so many! Everybody seems to have a favourite, but the three biggest sellers are the ‘two cheese pide’, ‘lamb manti’ and ‘keskek’ – a barley risotto with slow cooked lamb shoulder. There is also the ‘cağ kebab’, a delectable meat skewer, which flies out the door.

For suppliers reading, what products would you like to see more availability of in Dubai? I would like to go back to where we were. The latest municipality rules have made it extremely hard to get the more bespoke items from smaller farms. If the restrictions don’t deregulate, we will all be using the same large brands, which is not healthy for the market.

SNEAK PEEK Here’s what Rüya London will look like…

For chefs reading who would like to join Rüya’s brigade – what four main qualities do you look for in a chef when hiring? The main criteria I look for are a thirst for knowledge, hardworking and an ability to get along with anybody and everybody. A serious love and appreciation of food from all around the world, there’s no point wearing blinkers!

Were you always passionate about food growing up? What took you down the culinary route? 30 The Pro Chef Middle East

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Get to know chef Colin What’s your favourite dish to eat at home with family? As my wife Farah is from India, most probably butter chicken or biriyani. My children, Euan and Nael are addicted! Favourite place in the world to visit for its culinary offering? Japan. Five ingredients you always have in your home kitchen? Malden salt, Turkish chili powder, pomegranate molasses, British cheeses and HP sauce. Guilty pleasure food? HP sauce. Your fondest culinary experience to date? Most definitely traveling around Turkey just eating, drinking and seeing the sites, highly recommended. Watch the waistline, especially if you are taken by Rasim zkanca. You have to try everything, and I mean everything!

I had two passions growing up, archeology and cooking. Unfortunately, nobody told me that you had to be a genius to become an archeologist; which left cooking as the only option. My mother is a qualified chef, which paved the way for my prospective career. At first I applied to be a chef in the Royal Navy but failed the medical as I was too skinny - believe it or not - hence it was the Isle of Man College before I headed to London.

During your years in the kitchen so far, in which ways have you found most beneficial to bettering your skills as a chef? Travelling is extremely important as it broadens the mind and opens the eyes. Humour is also crucial; it’s a really hard job and you have to be able to laugh with your colleagues. Having a supportive family is

another element; a family that puts up with the long hours is a must.

Which restaurants are top on your list, when dining out in Dubai? There is a handful of restaurants: 3 Fils, Zuma, La Petite Maison, Bleu Blanc, Folly by Nick & Scott, and Tomo.

Exciting London opening aside, can we expect to see any further openings or happenings from Rüya any time in the near (ish) future? It all depends on London, if we can launch successfully in London, then the d.ream group will roll it out on a larger, global scale. The d.ream group is very excited about the Rüya expansion plans and obviously being Turkish, Mr. Ferhit Sahenk, Umut and his Father Rasim Özcanka want to showcase Anatolian cuisine beyond the döner kebab and hideous garlic mayo.

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

TAKING ON DUBAI Global restaurateur and American celebrity chef David Myers recently set up shop in Dubai, with three brand new concepts at Renaissance Downtown Hotel, Dubai. With doors now open at BASTA!, Bleu Blanc and Poppy, ‘gypsy chef’ David talks sourcing ingredients, hiring matters and forecasts for the future. By Sophie Voelzing

aking his Dubai debut late last year, David Myers opened three new outlets at the recently opened Renaissance Downtown Hotel, Dubai. His new collection reflects three concepts that are each close to his heart. Bleu Blanc is a quaint Southern French farmhouse-inspired restaurant with a wood-fired grill taking centre stage. BASTA! transports diners to an urban interpretation of a Roman trattoria, Florentine steakhouse and Neapolitan pizzeria, reminiscent of David’s own travel memories from these regions. While Poppy is an intimate bar that fuses craft cocktails with analog tunes – a place where David himself would hang out. Before journeying to Dubai, David’s culinary path has always been about the journey. Right from the first cookbook he stumbled across by Charlie Trotter, which led him to leave his hometown of Columbus, Ohio to work with the man himself in Chicago, to flying to France to work at three Michelin-starred restaurant Les Crayères. New York City was the next stop on David’s portfolio where he worked with Daniel Boulud at his flagship restaurant Daniel, then Los Angeles in 1998 where he worked under Joaquim Spichal at Patina. A milestone for David was being hired as executive chef at L’Ermitage in Beverly Hills, which due to a sudden acquisition swiftly led to him being relocated to Singapore where he set up modern French restaurant Jaan. The desire to call something his own set in at this point in his career and David opened his first restaurant Sona, which went on to earn a Michelin star for three consecutive years. He then went on to open Pizzeria Ortica in Costa Mesa; French bistro Comme Ca in Los Angeles and Las Vegas; the David Myers Café in Tokyo; Sola, a patisserie in Tokyo; and Hinoki & The Bird in Los Angeles. Other ventures of his include AnOther Place in Hong Kong, Salt Water Kitchen in Nagoya; and 72 Degrees in Ginza. When the gypsy chef isn’t travelling the world, he makes appearances on shows such as Iron Chef America, The Today Show, The Early Show, MSNBC’s Your Business, Top Chef, Master Chef US, Master Chef China and Hell’s Kitchen. David’s latest venture brings him to Dubai. Here, he tells more…

You recently opened three outlets in Dubai: BASTA!, Bleu Blanc and Poppy. Why did you decide to launch here? Dubai is such a cosmopolitan market. It’s extremely diverse in the sense that an array of iconic chefs have opened here, which is why it’s exciting and feels like a natural fit to do something here. The city itself is incredibly dynamic. It’s bustling, and it’s highly competitive. I think the real challenge is to be able to launch a brand new venue, and deliver a great experience. There are many restaurants that have made a name here over the years, so to dive into that melting pot of cuisines and cultures and make your concept successful is an incredible challenge for any chef. Given the relatively small population here, and the vast array of options consumers have, you have got to really be at the top of your game.

How are you finding working in Dubai so far? Working in Dubai so far has been great. Like Singapore, everything is shipped in so we are used to having that experience. It’s been a pleasure to be able to get ingredients so easily from Europe and to bring those to life at the Italian restaurant, BASTA! and at the Southern French restaurant, Bleu Blanc.

HIRING MATTERS When it comes to hiring chefs for his kitchen brigade, Myers looks for one key ingredient… PASSION – It all comes down to passion for us. We hire for passion not necessarily experience. We can train, and we can build upon a good foundation, but we need somebody who is so totally over the top, and insatiably passionate for cooking and food to begin with. Someone who in all their time off, is cooking, reading and researching. That’s what we are looking for in our kitchens. I keep it simple and look at that one main quality – passion.

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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What has your experience been like finding reliable suppliers in the region, offering high-quality product? It’s been pretty much like anywhere else. You can’t just pick up the phone and dial a number on your list and expect it to be good-to-go. You have to do research, find and talk to the suppliers and vendors, and you have to check the quality of the products that are coming in. It’s a relationship and it takes time to cultivate and find the right one.

What ingredients would you love to offer on the menu across your restaurants, but struggle to source here? I haven’t found anything that has been a real challenge in terms of sourcing fresh products. We have been very fortunate that in Dubai we are able to get pretty much everything we want.

On a global level, which chef or chefs do you look to for inspiration? On a global level I am inspired by a number of chefs. Japan is always an immediate draw for me. I look at the chefs in Japan who really have taken it to the level of art. Some chefs take certain crafts like sushi or yakitori and make it a life-long endeavor dedicating their entire life to getting better and better. And I have always been inspired by that. There are a number of chefs throughout my career that I have really followed and been inspired by. Charlie Trotter is one. He was one of my very first chefs, and a chef named Kazunori Nozawa, who had a wonderful sushi restaurant in Los Angeles, called Sushi Nozawa. He’s been a long-time friend and just a great source of inspiration. I hold a lot of respect for anyone who has been in this field for some time and has opened up in multiple places because it’s a very tough thing to accomplish.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

Looking at the seafood market, which locations around the world do you think have the best quality product? In terms of seafood, without a doubt, Tsukiji in Tokyo stands out. I also think other Japanese seafood markets like the fish market in Fukuwaka is pretty amazing, as well as in Kyushu. But Tsukiji as a whole – from the history and the craziness of what goes on there, the variety of seafood that is available, and the amount of selling that is going on – is like nowhere else in the world. It’s hands down my favourite and the added benefit is that you can get sushi right after you buy your fish.

Do you source any of your fish and seafood locally in the Middle East? If so, what species and where do you get this from? We haven’t sourced anything locally currently in the Middle East. I am open to doing so though, and would definitely like to explore local options. We have just opened, so we still have some time and obviously a lot more work to do, but an aspiration would be to look at that and integrate local products into the restaurants.

What do you predict as the next big trend in cooking and in the restaurant industry?

In a word, simplicity. I think we are seeing a little bit of it now and it will continue. I believe the trend is shifting back to the source and the simplicity of dishes. Less is more. It’s not about how much you can add it’s about how much you can take away. There’s a lot of emphasis now on the purity of dishes and products. Japan is a leading example when it comes to the simplicity of the dish. Of course, it’s complicated in some ways, and what they do is quite challenging, but that simplicity I think is going to make a big comeback. Certainly for health reasons people are embracing the less is more concept, and people are looking to find ways of simplifying things for themselves, so I think that will be a big part of it. Also, I truly believe that because the world seems to be getting smaller, you are going to see a lot more influence of different cuisines and cultures make their way into the mainstream. Whether it’s a touch of Arabic style to the dish or a touch of the South-East Asian – which can also be broken down into a little bit of Thai, a little Vietnamese and so on – it’s these little influences that help to enhance dishes. You can already see this influence from Japan, many chefs love to bring in a bit of a Japanese influence even with primarily French or Italian cuisines, and I think we will see a lot more of that on a global scale. For more information about Chef David Myers, visit gypsychef.com.

Kiwi is an exotic fruit that originated in China, with a fuzzy outer skin and juicy flesh. Rich in trace elements, minerals and vitamins, the kiwi quickly conquered the global market with its unique, exceptional sweet and sour taste! Why introduce kiwi into our daily diet?

How to enjoy kiwis

It is rich in vitamin C. Consumption of a single kiwifruit can cover the human organism’s daily requirement in this vitamin. It is also an excellent source of vitamins A, E and B complex, and it contains potassium, phosphorus, and magnesium.

There are several different ways to incorporate kiwis into your daily diet: • Serve your friends a refreshing fruit drink made with kiwi and melon. • Make delicious and healthy kiwi-based smoothies. • Enrich your breakfast by adding freshly cut slices of kiwi to yoghurt or to your cereal. • Enjoy chocolate kiwis! Cut the kiwis in slices and dip them in melted chocolate. The taste is a revelation! • Simply add kiwi to your favourite green salad.

European kiwis conquer the global market! European kiwi stands out for its quality, both in taste and in nutritional value, because it is harvested by hand. Kiwis are placed in suitable refrigerated storage areas within 24 hours from harvesting, thus guaranteeing that all of the fruit’s nutrients are preserved. European kiwis stand out and are sought after in many international markets, and are exported to over 51 countries in Europe, Africa, Asia and America.

www.hellokiwi.eu www.hellokiwi.eu

So let your imagination run free and pleasantly surprise your friends and family, by using kiwi in various recipes. The results will amaze you!

PROJECT CO-FINANCED BY BY THE PROJECT CO-FINANCED THE EUROPEAN UNION ANDAND GREECE EUROPEAN UNION GREECE

CH E FS / FACE TO FACE

With 45 restaurants globally, Richard Sandoval is a busy chef and restaurateur â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to say the least. But with multiple outlets across the Middle East, we see him visit the region often, checking in on his restaurants Zengo Dubai, plus Toro Toro Dubai and Abu Dhabi. In town most recently to celebrate the re-opening of his newly refurbished restaurant, Maya Dubai, we spoke to Richard of his experience operating internationally. By Sophie Voelzing

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

Photographs SUPPLIED

INTERNATIONAL OPERATIONS

rom small beginnings in Mexico City, where Richard would join his grandmother in the kitchen to create and enjoy Mexican feasts prepared from scratch, the accomplished chef, restauranteur, T.V personality and author has gone on to achieve great things. Sandoval, who was once a professional tennis player and had toured the world participating in prestigious matches, had such a passion for food that he decided to enroll in the Culinary Institute of America. Upon graduation, he gained the attention of New Yorkers with his contemporary French restaurants, Savann and Savann Est. Soon, though, he returned to his first love - the food of his childhood and in 1997 opened Maya, his flagship modern Mexican restaurant in New York. During the past 18 years, Sandoval's career as a chef and restaurateur has evolved to include serving as a culinary consultant, television personality, cookbook author and brand ambassador. Richard Sandoval Restaurants (RSR) is now a leading international restaurant group with over 40 concepts spanning Arizona, California, Colorado, Florida, Nevada, New York, Virginia and Washington, D.C., as well as in Dubai, Hong Kong, Mexico, Tokyo, Qatar and Serbia. Sharing his experience of operating internationally, Richard tells what it takes to manage and sustain high standards across global brands…

When you started out in the industry, did you think you’d one day own 45 restaurants worldwide? It was definitely never my plan! I moved to New York City to open my first restaurant and from there it just organically started taking off!

What would your word of advice be to any chef looking to expand their empire like you did? I think the most important thing is to have a solid plan behind your growth, making sure you don’t grow too fast because that’s when you tend to spread yourself too thin and restaurants start to suffer. Also, make sure you surround yourself with the right people for the right support.

With restaurants internationally, how do you manage your schedule to ensure consistency and high brand standards across all of your outlets? In every country, every restaurant that I open, I handpick the team of chefs and

Toro Toro Abu Dhabi

Maya Dubai

operations to ensure we’re delivering to the highest standards. Internationally, I’ve always partnered with a local restaurant or hotel group to ensure quality and consistency.

If you could open a restaurant in any location in the world, where would you choose and why? Africa really appeals to me, as I’ve never been there, but I have a real strong interest in the region. It’s an evolving market and I’m convinced that in the next five to ten years, we’ll see lots of exciting opportunities happening there.

You’ve been present in the Middle East restaurant scene for quite some time. How have you seen the region’s foodscape evolve? The evolution has been pretty amazing, especially in Dubai, which has seriously earned itself a position as a global culinary hotspot. With all top chefs setting up restaurants here, the competition is so much more fierce than it was ten years ago.

Why did you choose Abu Dhabi as your latest location to launch Toro Toro? We’ve seen lots of guests from Abu Dhabi travelling to Dubai to visit the restaurants here, so it was only natural to set up shop there.

With so much international expansion, where did you look to when recruiting the team for your restaurants? We would look to recruit locally first, before we bring people in from the US and other countries. With existing restaurants in Dubai, we typically take people from our restaurants and move them around given their local market experience.

Looking forward, do you have any other immediate expansion plans? Of course, we most recently opened a restaurant at the Four Seasons in Costa Rica and are opening next at Le Royal Meridien in Fort Lauderdale. We’re also very excited to be opening in Mexico City soon so lots of exciting opportunities in the pipeline.

As the operator of 45 successful outlets, we have to ask what’s the secret to a successful restaurant? Without a doubt, your team of people that you surround yourself with. The hospitality industry is all about the interactions that humans have with one other, and it’s imperative to perfect this aspect and the art of taking care of people! To find out more about Maya, visit maya-dubai.com

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

FE ATU R ES / MARKET FO CU S

SPOILT FOR CHOICE?

Photographs SHUTTERSTOCK

Founder of the Global Restaurant Investment Forum (GRIF), Jennifer Pettinger-Haines, discusses Dubai’s ever-changing food and beverage landscape with a selection of the region’s leading operators

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

FE ATU R ES / MARKET FO CU S

ome to an incredibly dynamic and versatile restaurant industry, Dubai’s culinary scene is ever-evolving. From new dining destinations and exciting new concepts, to changing consumer preferences and increased competition, I was curious to see how some of the city’s leading restaurateurs feel about the current food and beverage landscape in Dubai. First off, I was interested to find out what they thought were the highlights of 2017. Last year saw the opening of several new dining destinations as well as new openings in the more established parts of town. “In 2017, we saw multiple restaurant openings as well as the launch of La Mer and The Jumeirah Fishing Village. With more, new exciting venues starting to come into the market, Dubai is spoilt for choice”, said Reif Othman, Chef and Business Partner of Flavio Briatore Group. “We are not just restricted

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“It’s clear that the UAE customer is now a real deal seeker and affordability is key. Customers are using discount vouchers, loyalty schemes, apps and are searching for special offers.” to Downtown, Jumeirah Beach Residence or Dubai Marina, we have a nice spread.” Naim Maadad, Chief Executive of Gates Hospitality agrees: “The culinary scene has never been so bright and there are some very good food and beverage dining options.” He also said, however, that the supply-demand issue is looming large: “The supply-demand imbalance is tilting towards oversupply and demand is not catching up. I believe we will see a market course correction in the near future.” Emma Banks, General Manager of Jumeirah Restaurant Group, said:

“Reporting how many F&B units are operating in the UAE is a moving feast so to say, but it seems to be widely accepted that with all the various openings and closures the market will sit at 20,000 {restaurants} by 2020.” A dynamic and rapidly-growing restaurant industry does have its challenges as well, but what are the key issues and what should restaurateurs do to overcome these? “There seems to be a mad rush to jump on the bandwagon and it’s seen as a status symbol to own a restaurant, even without industry knowledge. Starting and

Jennifer Pettinger-Haines, Managing Director, Middle East, Bench Events

Reif Othman, Chef and Business Partner of Flavio Briatore Group

Naim Maadad, Chief Executive of Gates Hospitality

Emma Banks, General Manager of Jumeirah Restaurant Group

launching a restaurant is easy, but operators will soon realise that it’s difficult to sustain in the long run. Sound knowledge of the intricacies of food and beverage is needed, which is lacking in most businesses that shut down after a grand launch”, said Maadad. “The biggest challenge we will face this year is the footfall every restaurant will get. There are simply not enough people dining out. In 2018, people will be very cautious about their spending and what they are spending on. With the introduction of VAT, I think we will see a rise of the food delivery business. High-end restaurants will suffer and the mid-tier restaurants and cafes will do well,” Othman commented. Banks agrees: “Operators are expressing concern that the market is saturated, and everyone is chasing a slice of the pie, which has become more challenging with the stratospheric growth in the home delivery business.” She added: “It’s clear that the UAE customer is now a real deal seeker and affordability is key. Customers are using discount vouchers, loyalty schemes, apps and are searching for special offers.” Consumer behaviour and preferences are changing globally and this also impacts where and what people eat. With the shared sentiment that diners in Dubai are becoming more cost conscious, what are consumers in Dubai looking for when choosing where to dine? “Customers are looking for quality, not only in the establishment and food, but also in the service and knowledge of the team serving them. Product knowledge is key as customers become more ‘foodie’ types and simply regurgitating the contents of a menu will no longer do. Customers will expect answers around provenance, nutrition, cooking methods and allergens, hence training your teams and retention is key”, Banks said. “Consumers will first of all consider location, ambiance, food and restaurant recognition in terms of recommendations through word of mouth or food magazines.

“With the introduction of VAT, I think we will see a rise of the food delivery business. High-end restaurants will suffer and the midtier restaurants and cafés will do well.”

But increasingly, they will be looking at the prices on the menu”, commented Othman. Maadad added: “Consumers are looking for three things: easier access to venues, value for money and a variety of offering in service and content of food and drinks.” So, what’s in store for 2018? 2018 will be about prudent and sensible growth, according to Banks: “The UAE still remains a very attractive market for investors and operators and despite the complaints of over saturation, there is still a strong demand to open up F&B concepts in the UAE.” Othman agrees: “Opportunities are always there, we just need to be wiser and smarter when choosing to open in 2018.” Maadad concludes: “Brands need to ensure that all elements are aligned: concept, location, pricing, value and consistency and outlets need to be run by professional restaurateurs who support the brand ethos. The very good food and beverage offerings in the market will evolve and succeed after the market correction to balance demand and supply”.

Jennifer Pettinger-Haines is Managing Director, Middle East, for Bench Events, organisers of The Global Restaurant Investment Forum (GRIF), the annual meeting for the international restaurant investment community.

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

FE ATU R ES / S US TA I N AB I LI T Y

Tackling food waste

“All you can eat.” In Brazil, it’s comida a quilo. In Japan, viking. Sweden calls it smorgasbord. Whether you eat all you can or not, the food behind the “all you can eat” concept has been grown, bought, shipped, prepared and served. Its final destination? The rubbish heap. One third of all food ever produced ends up in this pile. Food waste accumulates at each step along the global food supply chain. From the ‘ugly’ fruit that never makes it off the farm, to the processors and importers, to the wholesale suppliers and hygiene regulations, each touchpoint leaves something behind. This should spark substantial concern for all players along the chain because every step incurs costs. The further we move along the supply chain, the greater these costs become, so let’s look into the implications within gastronomy. While consumers continue to stack their plates with more than they can eat, chefs feel the need to satisfy the insatiable appetites. Since there is little to no time to have an oversight on all the processes going on during the rush of service, our bins fill up at the end of the day, and the content remains a mystery. Therein lies the problem. Throw it in, close the lid, take it away. In an industry where costs are high and profits comparatively low, there is not much room for error to stay afloat. Costs vary between restaurant type, but food and labour consistently fight for first place, both ranging between 25% and 38%. We look for every possible way to cut costs but right under our noses, these bins fill up with our time, money and energy. The worst part is, these costs are not only incurred by owners of the establishments, but also by the environment. Earth pays a pretty hefty price, with 2/3 of all wasted food being edible and made for human consumption. If 1/3 of everything you did at work was deleted, you would eventually get fed up. Agriculture and crop production accounts for 10% of the Earth’s land mass, and the more we overwork it, the less arable it becomes.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

Photographs SUPPLIED

With pressure coming from both the bottomline and consumers, reducing food waste is an increasing focus for the industry. Naomi MacKenzie co-founder of KITRO, the first fully automated food waste measurement system for restaurants and canteens, discusses what can be done to tackle the problem.

Introducing: KITRO KITRO is the first fully automated food waste measurement system for restaurants and canteens. Comprised of a hardware and software solution, KITRO requires no manual entry allowing for efficient and costeffective methods to measure and monitor food waste. Based on the data analysed users receive reports that outline their peak areas of waste. By understanding the key areas of waste within an outlet, users are empowered to change their work practices in order to reduce food waste and cost. For more information, contact info@ kitro.ch or visit kitro.ch.

So, what is the solution? How can changes be made without jeopardising the quality on offer to our customers? All it takes is for us to open our eyes and discover the source. It’s easy to ignore what we cannot see, so get curious about what’s filling the bin in your restaurant. Which item is thrown away the most? Why is it there and where does it come from? The point is, what gets measured gets done (or saved, in this case). By shining a light on food waste in this one step of the chain, we can raise awareness not just in the back of house but also for consumers. We can empower ourselves to think twice before sending the so-called ‘ugly’ fruit to the fire. Let us think twice on how to repurpose certain items. Let us think twice before we throw out that perfectly edible entrecote steak. If we open our eyes, we can bring back the value of all food, so it is appreciated and not wasted.

About the author With experience working in the food and beverage industry both in kitchens and service Naomi witnessed every day the enormous amount of edible food that is being thrown away. This led her to commit herself to reducing the avoidable food waste in this sector. The idea behind KITRO originated during Naomi’s educational studies at the Ecole hôtelière de Lausanne. Since then, together with co-founder Anastasia Hofmann, she has been vigorously working to bring the hospitality industry a solution to tackle this growing issue of food waste.

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

FE ATU R ES / TRADE N EW S

TRADE

TALK

We take a look back at some of the biggest stories to come out of Gulfood 2018. By Sophie Voelzing

The UAE has become one of the most important export countries for New Zealand. With only 1.5% of arable land, the UAE imports around 90% of its produce annually, which makes New Zealand, who exports 80% of its agricultural produce, a natural partner. “The UAE is an enormously important hub for us – it’s our ninth largest export market in the world, particularly for dairy like butter and cheeses. We’re also seeing an increased demand for our high-quality meat, seafood and chicken, particularly in the halal category,” said Jeremy Clarke-Watson, New Zealand Ambassador to the UAE at the Gulfood 2018 exhibition. “Moving forward, we expect this demand to further increase, particularly because of our sustainability and provenance stories – we’re able to tell you where our ingredients come from with farm to plate traceability. Consumers are demanding freshness and they are demanding products with provenance, and that’s really important to us and our offering,” he added. For New Zealand, the UAE is the fastest growing region outside of China, Jeremy noted.

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Are your Italian ingredients legitimate? Companies selling counterfeit Italian ingredients are raking in millions every year, yet they have no link to Italy’s traditional high-standards in food or the ‘Made in Italy’ excellence stamp. “We have been facing the ‘Italian sounding phenomenon’ for quite some time now, which is unfair competition from producers that are selling fake Italian

Photographs SUPPLIED & MAKSYM PORIECHKIN

New Zealand exports to UAE on the rise

Micro greens aren’t just for garnish

products. In a way, it is fraud to the buyer as they are lying about the true origin of products by putting the Italian flag on packaging, and allowing people to believe that it is a true Italian product when it is not,” Gianopaolo Bruno, Trade Commissioner to the UAE, Italian Trade Agency, revealed during Gulfood 2018. “We’re really trying hard to educate people about authentic Italian products and I urge buyers to really read the labels on the ingredients they are purchasing,” he added. When purchasing, ensure that your Italian ingredients have EU quality logos - PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication), which assure of the traditional quality and authenticity of produce, in terms of regional origin or traditional production. “Italian food is about health and an abundance of colours, flavours and authentic produce.

Today, there are many fraudulent products in the market claiming to be authentic Italian, and consumers and the HORECA sector needs to understand how to identify the real from the fake,” said Gianpaolo. Purchasing these ‘fake’ Italian products, causes devastating damage to the true producers of genuine Italian food, the Trade Commissioner added. Currently, Italian food exports to the UAE alone is worth over USD 350 million.

Often perceived as ‘just a garnish’, furthered education for professional chefs on micro greens can assist to enhance menu development by using innovative food pairings, told Paul DaCosta-Greaves, Koppert Cress UK-UAE Country Manager, during Gulfood 2018. Koppert Cress is the world’s leading grower in terms of horticulture and microgreens, and as a company is working towards further educating chefs around the world, including the Middle East, on the use of micro greens. “Education is always at the forefront with Koppert Cress. We use nature to nurture, medicinally but also as an ingredient, rather than just a garnish. There really is so much you can do with micro greens. When we release a new product, we ensure that the chefs in the Middle East are informed at the same as chefs in Europe and elsewhere, so that they never fall behind,” explained Paul. Koppert Cress specialises in cresses; seedlings of unique plants, which each have their own specific effect on the senses. Every year at least one new item is added to the collection of Microvegetables. “Micro greens can really bring a dish together as a main component of the dish when used correctly – it’s all about getting the pairing right. For example, one of my favourites has to be a dish of strawberry carpaccio, aged Parmesan, micro basil and zeoliti blossom, which is the flower of the basil, with a little bit of cracked pepper, and aged virgin olive oil – it’s such a simple dish, but together is such a wonderfully rounded flavour combination,” Paul concluded.

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

FE ATU R ES / TRADE N EW S

Beverage market forecasted to reach US$644.5 by year-end Major shifts in consumer preference are driving innovation and demand in the beverage sector, according to the inaugural Gulfood Global Industry Outlook Report, commissioned to Euromonitor International The report states that ‘beverages’ is the largest F&B sector, with moderate growth expected, but featuring major shifts in consumption as consumers are enticed by new products and flavours. “All in all, consumer preferences are slowly shifting as people become more health-conscious. Every year, there is a decrease in unhealthy consumption and an increase in healthy consumption. For example, organic foods have been on the rise consistently over the years. Usually distributors will see the most impact from this, but it always depends on the demand,” explained a leading global soft beverages manufacturer interviewed for the report. As black tea is perceived as a less healthy option, Euromonitor’s Passport reports conclude that “global demand for green tea continues to rise, with significant export opportunities for Chinese and Japanese players. Sustainable sourcing of tea is a growing interest; major ethical labels include Ethical Tea Partnership and Rainforest Alliance.” With both sub-sectors – hot and soft beverages – being impacted by the growing consumer awareness for healthy living, some of the key challenges and opportunities highlighted by the report are: • Less processing expected as consumers look for naturally healthy and functional beverages; • Information is key – labeling and packaging to be increasingly scrutinised by the demanding consumer; • Consumers are more willing to try new products and flavours. In the Muslim Middle East and South Asia, it is an exciting time for soft beverages. Increased socialising among young, urban professionals – and a growing acceptance of social drinking – are affecting foodservice sales positively. Non-alcoholic mixers and soft drinks have seen increased sales as young Muslims socialise in restaurants and coffee shops. Embarking on this movement, the Emirates Culinary Guild’s International Salon Culinaire 2018 is introducing two brand new courses in this field.

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Peruvian superfood exports to UAE increase The export of Peruvian superfoods to the UAE increased by 38% from January 2017 to November 2017, and continues to grow, reports the Ministry of Foreign Trade and Tourism of Peru. Among the superfoods most in demand in 2017 were avocados, quinoa, chia seeds, pomegranates, cocoa nibs and berries. Other top performing products included grapes, asparagus, mangoes, organic bananas, jalapeños, coffee, chilies, and pulses. “The UAE currently ranks 17th in total global Peruvian exports. We saw a 38% increase in total exports in January to November 2017 when compared to the same period in 2016. Our non-traditional exports to the UAE, which include superfoods, have grown by 69% during that time,” said Alvaro SilvaSantisteban F., Director of the Ministry of Foreign Trade and Tourism of Peru, through its representation based in the UAE. “In fact, agricultural exports were among our best performing sectors in 2017, partly due to the healthy eating trend, but also because of the growing global recognition of Peru as a center of gastronomy,” he added. Peru is one of the most biodiverse countries on the planet, boasting 28 of 32 of the world’s climates. This makes it the perfect environment for the cultivation of food products with high nutritional value. Known as superfoods, these foods have a much higher concentration of vitamins, nutrients, minerals, and energy than other fresh produce. According to Euromonitor, naturally healthy foods are predicted to be the fastest growing category within the health and wellness food segment in the coming years, forecast to reach USD291 billion by 2021.

SPOTTED AT GULFOOD 2018 The Pro Chef Middle East

MEA to deliver strongest growth for global F&B industry to 2021 This year’s Gulfood Global Industry Outlook Report reveals that the Middle East and Africa (MEA) regions will deliver the strongest regional growth for the international food and beverage industry, with Asia Pacific also holding ‘enticing’ prospects, in the run up to 2021. The in-depth report follows a Euromonitor International market study based on official published sources and trade surveys with local and global manufacturers, distributors, trade associations and government entities. The report cites high birth rates, rapidly expanding cities and growing employment as key factors behind the high potential in MEA and Asia Pacific, where combined consumer spend in the food beverage sector is forecast to rise to 60% of global expenditure by 2030, up from 53% today. Trixie LohMirmand, Senior Vice President, Exhibitions & Events, DWTC, said: “While there’s more consumers to go around, overall consumer spending is set to drop from 8.5% of GDP to 8.0% by 2030 as products become relatively more affordable and make up a smaller proportion of overall consumer spending.” The report also reveals that while consumers are actively transitioning to healthier, more adventurous foods and beverages, they are still looking for convenient packaging and product delivery.

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

Photographs SUPPLIED

O N THE PASS / IN SI G HT

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Opening at Atlantis

Want to take your restaurant global? Ashley Palmer-Watts, chef director at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, talks successfully turning a restaurant brand into an international business, as he and Heston Blumenthal break news of the 2019 opening of their first Dubai-based restaurant, ‘Dinner’ at the new Royal Atlantis Resort & Residences, when the hotel opens early next year

shley Palmer-Watts began his culinary career like many others: working for a local restaurant at 13 years old. He is often considered Heston Blumenthal’s chief protégé, having been with the illustrious chef since the early days, joining The Fat Duck in 1999. Back then, there were just a handful of cooks in the kitchen; today there are roughly 50. Dorset-born Ashley currently oversees a large staff at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, a multi awardwinning restaurant serving exceptional and inventive reinterpretations of historical British dishes. Speaking from the Global Restaurant Investment Forum 2018 at Palazzo Versace Dubai, Ashley spoke on the topic of delivering the set-up of a big restaurant name in different jurisdictions. During this time, Ashley and Heston revealed that they will bring Dinner by Heston Blumenthal to Dubai next year...

Tell us a about Dinner by Heston Blumenthal… We opened Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

London in 2011 at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in the heart of Knightsbridge, overlooking Hyde Park. The restaurant received its first Michelin star in 2012, and its second in 2013, and we opened in Melbourne in 2015. Dinner is a celebration of historic British gastronomy brought into a contemporary setting, and Heston and I worked closely for many years to research and create a finely crafted menu, which draws on recipes from as far back as the fourteenth century.

With such a strong and uniquely British influence, what was the thinking behind taking Dinner to Australia? To be honest, an international outlook has always been part of the plan for Dinner. Right from the very first conversation I had with Heston, we decided that if we made a success of our first restaurant then the goal would be to open a small number around the globe, tapping into local food history as well as taking our culinary past to each individual location.

TAKING THE NEXT STEP Ashley’s top five tips for investors and brands looking to take the next step… 1) Take the time to research the market; look at who does what well. 2) Be sure of what your restaurant stands for. 3) Be certain of how your restaurant fits into its own unique space. 4) Be prepared to spend time at the new location and be part of the city or country's fabric. 5) Really try to add something to the already-existing vibrant restaurant scene.

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

O N THE PASS / IN SI G HT

“It's an incredible location and we are very excited to become part of the thriving restaurant scene” How did you go about ensuring the Melbourne restaurant maintained Dinner’s strong ethos? We opened our second Dinner restaurant in the Crown Hotel in Melbourne in 2015. Establishing a restaurant and building a team so far away from home was a challenge in many respects, but it forced us to grow, trust, and empower the team based there much faster than if I had been able to pop in every week. I still spend between 60-90 days a year in Australia, as I really want us to be an active part of the restaurant over there. I’ve invested my heart and soul into it, which I hope gives the restaurant real integrity to achieve great things.

Did you face any challenges in delivering the Dinner experience? As with any restaurant, it is first and foremost about developing an incredible team that can deliver the vision, the consistency and above all else, to develop their teams in turn. The other challenge is of course ingredients and supply, which is

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vastly different in Melbourne compared to London. You rely on friends in the industry to help point you in the right direction, and this has allowed us to develop relationships with farmers, suppliers and fishermen, and to benefit from the very best each country has to offer.

What would you say is the key learning you took away from the process? I guess we’ve discovered that when starting afresh in another country, it’s amazing how connected and small the restaurant world really is. We have been incredibly lucky to have had the support and knowledge of our chef and restaurateur friends in Melbourne, and that has made it an absolute privilege to be able to call Melbourne our second home.

Why did you choose Dubai for Dinner's next location? It's an incredible location and we are very excited to become part of the thriving restaurant scene.

O N THE PASS / REC I P ES

A BITE OF BRAZIL Chef and owner Alex Alata of D.O.M in São Paulo, Brazil, the #16 ranked restaurant on this year’s World's 50 Best Restaurants list, shares his contemporary Brazilian recipes that showcase Amazonian ingredients.

photography MWELLINGTON NEMETH, RICHARDO D’ANGELO, RUBEN KATO

irmly linked to his roots, Alex Atala is, above all, passionate about Brazil, nature, gastronomy, and life. Driven by challenges and a great sense of indignation, Atala manages, with extreme delicacy and technique, to turn his creative energy into unforgettable experiences for those who have the opportunity to prove his experiments. His aim is to explore all the gastronomic possibilities of domestic ingredients, combining classical basis with current techniques. However, with boldness and vision, Atala surpasses the boundaries of cuisine and acts as a responsible citizen, valuing the small producer, encouraging young professionals, and supporting the third sector. Alex Atala was still a little boy when he had his first contact with the Amazon region, thanks to his family.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

Already at age 19, in the Hospitality School of Namur, in Belgium, Atala began his career as a professional chef. In France, he worked in restaurants such as the ones owned by Jean Pierre Bruneau and Bernard Loiseau, and was a trainee at the renowned Hotel de la Cote D’Or. He next left for new challenges in kitchens of Montpellier and Milan. Back to São Paulo in 1994, he soon drew attention for his performance while in charge of the restaurants Filomena and 72. In 1999, he began his career as chef-owner in the acclaimed Namesa. In the very same year he opened the D.O.M. Restaurant, as well as a new era for Brazilian cuisine, where the ingredients and food culture of his country are protagonists in an avant-garde, sophisticated, and always surprising cuisine.

Photographs SUPPLIED

recipes ALEX ATALA

Cook it in low fire for 10 minutes without allowing it to boil. Retrieve it from the fire and let it rest for 20 minutes. Strain the broth and save it. • Hydrate the tapioca with a water spoon and blend in the result into the mushroom broth so it thickens. Save it.

Furikake

Heat up a frying pan and throw in the mini rice (without olive oil or common oil). Fry it until it pops like popcorn. Save it.

For the fried onions

Slice the onion in the thin mandolin. Wash it four or five times with ice cold water so it loses its typical taste and gets sweeter. Dry it very well and pass it on wheat flour. Fry the onion at 140 degrees Celsius until it gets a slightly golden color. Save it.

For the nori seaweed

With the help of scissors, cut the seaweed into thin slices and, then, cut these horizontally into pieces of approximately 2cm.

For the manioc crispy

Pupunha heart of palm fettuccine with Yanomami mushrooms

Serves 4

Completion of the furikake

Prep time: 30 mins

For the fettuccine

1 pack of pupunha heart of palm (approximately, 240g)

40 g aviú shrimp dehydrated (micro river shrimp) Oil to fry the onions and manioc

For the mushrooms broth

To serve

15g dusted Yanomami mushrooms 500ml water 15ml shoyu sauce 10g tapioca 5g small chopped white onions 3g salt

For the manioc crispys that are part of the furikake 110g manioc flour 100ml water

For the furikake

40g wholegrain mini-rice 20g fried onions (breaded with wheat flour) 1 leaf of nori seaweed (cut into very thin stripes)

Crush the manioc flour in a blender and mix it with water. With wet hands, make small balls approximately the size of ping pong balls. With the help of a cylinder or pasta roll, open these balls one by one and fry them into really hot oil until they inflate. At this moment, retrieve them from the fire. Wait for them to cool and crush them into really small pieces. Save them.

Chopped ciboulettes 5g dry Yanomami mushrooms (use 300 ml of water and 20 ml of shoyu sauce to hydrate it)

METHOD Fettuccine

Slice the pupunha with a medium mandolin so the slices come out shaped like fettuccine. Make a selection of the slices that are more wholesome and whiten them in boiling salted water.

Mushroom broth

• Mix the dusted mushrooms with shoyu sauce, ice cold water, salt and the onions.

In a bowl, mix the toasted rice, the breaded fried onions, the slices of nori seaweed, the manioc crispy and the dehydrated aviú shrimp. Save it.

Completion of the dish

• Hydrate the mushrooms with 300 ml of water and 20 ml of shoyu sauce. Save it. • In a pan over low fire put the strained broth and thicken it with the blend of tapioca. Let it cook for 2 minutes. • Add the fettuccine to the broth and heat up the mixture for approximately 3 minutes. • With the help of a big spoon, place two spoons of the mushrooms broth on the bottom of the plate. With the help of spoon and fork, roll the fettuccine and place it in the center of the plate over the broth. Set the hydrated mushrooms and the ciboulette over the fettuccine. To finish, place a spoon of furikake on the side of the dish, so it rounds the fettuccine. • Serve it.

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

O N THE PASS / REC I P ES

Chopped parsley Ciboulette Olive oil with pepper Salt

METHOD Açaí berry purée

Serves 4

Pirarucu (Amazonian river fish) with açaí berry purée and pimento-de-cheiro (Brazilian aromatic chili)

100g pirarucu

For the açaí berry purée 1kg sugarless açaí pulp 8 silverskin onions 4 pimentas-de-cheiro 200g fresh heavy cream 50g chopped garlic 80g chopped onions Water Olive oil with herbs

Prep time: 20 mins

Manioc beiju (pancake)

• In a chinois, decant the açaí overnight. Afterwards, cook it with 150g of the heavy cream for 3 hours, stirring it from time to time. • Sauté the garlic and onions until they sweat and add the açaí and the remaining fresh heavy milk. Adjust the salt and pour a drop of the pepper olive oil. • Cut the onions in half and let them brown only on the cut side. Cut the pimenta de cheiro diagonally and save three pieces of it.

For the pirarucu

Cut the pirarucu fillet in two slices and let it brown only on two sides.

Completion of the dish

Heat up the silverskin onion on the herbs olive oil for two minutes. Add the pimentas de cheiro and throw in the chopped herbs. Heat up the açaí purée and serve.

Serves 4

280g manioc flour 360ml water 10g salt 200g tapioca 40ml bottled butter

METHOD • Blend the manioc flour, water and salt and let it hydrate for 10 minutes. Afterwards, add the tapioca. Divide the mixture into four portions of approximately 100g and save it. • Divide in also four parts the bottled butter (10ml per part). Save it. • In a pre-warmed 25cm frying pan, place one portion of the mixture and heat it medium fire until a disc forms (like a pancake). Retrieve it from the fire and distribute over it one of the shares (10ml) of the bottled butter. • Repeat the same process for all the other portions of the mixture and shares of the bottled butter. • Cut the discs in four and serve. For more information about D.O.M or Alex Atala, visit domrestaurante.com.br

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

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LE I SUR E / TRAV EL

DEST I N ATI O N D IN I N G

Due to its isolated lacation in Järpen, Fäviken Magasinet is a restaurant with accommodation. The rooms are for two people and cost 2,500 SEK, including breakfast.

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

Fäviken was founded by executive chef Magnus Nilsson, who recently appeared on the popular Chef’s Table documentary.

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Is Fäviken, the two-time Michelin star-earning Sweden-based restaurant, the world’s most isolated, daring dining destination? We take a look inside executive chef Magnus Nilsson’s little red Nordic farmhouse.

Enjoy quiet serenity of the Nordic landscape while enjoying Nilsson’s interpretation of the cuisine inside a rustic red farmhouse.

It costs 3,000 SEK (approx.. $376) to dine at Fäviken, which must be paid upfront when making a reservation.

During the summer and autumn, Fäviken harvest what grows on its land as it reaches the peak of ripeness, and prepare it using methods chef Magnus has rediscovered from rich traditions, or that he has created through his own research to maintain the highest quality of the end product.

At Fäviken, they do things as they have always been done at Jämtland mountain farms; they follow seasonal variations and existing Nordic traditions.

The tiny dining room only accommodates 16 people at a time between five tables.

Fäviken’s offering is so sought-after that reservations book up a year in advance. But don’t worry if you’re hoping to make the trip. The restaurant recently revealed that it has re-opened reservations up until June 20, 2018.

For more information, contact info@favikenmagasinet.se or visit favikenmagasinet.se

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

LE I SUR E / THE LAS T WO R D

CUSTOMER (DIS)SERVICE Get a bunch of serving staff together, either over drinks at the end of service or grabbing a few words waiting at the pass, and one thing quickly becomes clear: there's just something wrong with customers. Not only do they complain, but they have such weird misconceptions about the whole eating out experience. Dave Reeder summarises the rules - in his opinion - of dining out that ought to be obvious but, for many customers, just are not…

The Pro Chef Middle East / Spring 2018

NO-SHOWS It's a dilemma: one the one hand, restaurants want firm bookings so they can manage workflow and inventory; on the other, diners want to be flexible and not tied to an eating out plan maybe thought out weeks ago. The result? Restaurants who see a no-profit evening because an eight-top didn't show up and potential customers who get upset (or worse) when they're phoned about a no-show. The answer? Customers should let a restaurant know early if their plans change - hey, things happen and it's no big deal as long as there's some notice… The down side? A restaurant turning away a potential high-spend party of eight because the only available table is pre-booked. Except, they're no-shows…

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ey, this is an industry built on fun, right? Happy, smiling customers being fed by dedicated F&B staff from chefs to servers – what could go wrong? Well, according to those who work in the industry, quite a lot… It's a strange phenomenon: as the restaurant scene generally becomes more casual and popular, customers just get worse! Maybe the old formal etiquette of "dining out" kept them under control but now, it seems, just about anything goes, to the despair of dedicated staff who just want to get to the end of the shift, pocket some well-deserved tips and have some fun. Here, after talking to F&B staff, are how things are changing and not always for the better, either for staff or other diners. How long before a takeaway and a carefully managed environment at home looks increasingly like the go-to option?

CRAZY DIETS Okay, even the fiercest carnivorous chef has had to get used to vegan diners, at least if he or she wants to stay in business. But what about the diner who avoids gluten but then wants a brownie as a dessert? What's so hard here? When booking a table, make it clear what you don't eat and, no, chicken is not a 'vegetarian' option…

HEY, IT’S A COMMUNITY, OKAY? Hey, this 'community' dining has been going on for a while, right? So, isn't it time you stopped treating the big table you're sat at as your own space? Don't spread yourself. Learn to share condiments. Be civil but don't try and drag everyone into your conversation.

LEARN TO QUEUE Okay, you're having a great time at your table with great company but spare a thought for those in the bar with reservations on your table for 9pm. Be considerate. Both ways.

KIDS? JUST SAY ‘NO’… Kids in a good restaurant? Sure, a fine idea with the promise of later adults who appreciate fine food. But until then? Don't let kids act like kids – if you want to, I'm sure there's a KFC or a McDonald's nearby…

Spring 2018 / The Pro Chef Middle East

LE I SUR E / THE LAS T WO R D

STAFF ARE PEOPLE TOO, RIGHT? PART TWO.

STAFF ARE PEOPLE TOO, RIGHT? Most people like to feel comfortable when eating out and part of that experience is often feeling some connection to your wait staff. Sure, talk to them about the food, but don't move on to their cute accent, or what their parents do or where they live. That's intrusive and not cool.

It's amazing that this still needs to be spelled out, but don't touch the staff, okay? Keep your hands to yourself!

PUT IT AWAY! With the greatest respect to online friends, put your phone away in your pocket or handbag – now! Nobody minds the occasional shot of some great dish but the compulsive recording of every single aspect of a meal, down to the place setting, just isn't fair on other diners or on the staff. I can still remember amazing dishes and where I ate them from ten or 20 years ago, without the need of a quickly grabbed image for a blog post. Train yourself to remember the food and leave your mobile switched off until the end of the meal.

SHARE AND SHARE ALIKE We've all seen it, haven't we? A table full of small plates and hungry diners falling on them like hungry wolves. Wait just a minute – let's have some decorum, some rules. Rule one: everyone at the table gets first dibs on at least one dish. No arguments.

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/ Spring 2018

AND, FINALLY… Eating out and enjoying great food and excellent service is one of life's pleasures. But make it a shared experience – the more you involve staff in your meal (plus tipping well), the more your next visit to the restaurant will be enjoyable. F&B staff are not like normal people – they work ridiculous hours, they bond very closely with coworkers and, most importantly, they remember bad customers. Plus, good ones too...

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