The Pro Chef Middle East - November Issue, 2013 by The Pro Chef Middle East

MIDDLE EAST ISSUE 21 NOVEMBER 2013

Celebrate! Traditional Emirati cuisine

Celebrate! Our ﬁrst ﬁne dining awards

Celebrate! Ingenious twists on bush tucker

IN SUPPORT OF

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Under the directive of His Highness Sheikh Hamdan Bin Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum Crown Prince of Dubai and Chairman of Dubai Executive Council

16 -18th November 2013

Continuing the Legacy of Emirati Hospitality

Zaabeel Palace Hospitality invites you to the inaugural chapter of the Dubai World Hospitality Championship 2013 (DWHC), a three day event which will feature competitions that highlight the cuisine, heritage and culture of the United Arab Emirates,

and encourage Emirati participation in the field of hospitality. In keeping with the true spirit of Emirati heritage, Dubai is opening its doors to the world this November through a unique first-of-its-kind hospitality event in the Middle East.

For further information please contact:

Opening Hours Saturday 16 November Sunday 17th & Monday 18th November th

Organised by

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EMAIL INFO@DWHC.AE | TEL +971 4 336 9685

Supported by

facebook.com/DWHCDubai twitter.com/DWHCDubai

11:00 to 22:00 09:00 to 22:00

instagram.com/DWHCDubai

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Contents

UP FRONT

FEATURES

CHEFS

LEISURE

AWARDS The ﬁrst annual Pro Chef Middle East Fine Dining Awards took place last month.

FOOD CULTURE Celebrating the inaugural Dubai World Hospitality Championship promoting Emirati cuisine.

COUNTRY FOCUS As part of Australia‚ ﬁrst national indigenous festival, Corroboree, resident chefs at Sydney Botanic Gardens two traditional aboriginal bush tucker to design a themed lunch menu with a twist.

TRAVEL We all enjoy the taste of home cooking when we travel, but ﬁnding it in a Beirut restaurant committed to local sourcing and farmer support made this holiday.

48 32

FACE TO FACE Time spent working with Heston Blumenthal was inspiring enough for Chef Ross Clarke to create a new career as a ‘molecular’ consultant.

SPECIAL Ofﬁcial Show Guide of 2013 International Coffee & Tea Festival held in Dubai.

EDITORIAL A strange new trend is emerging in the US. People with no allergies are turning to nongluten products, believing that they are both generally healthier and will help in dieting. OUT AND ABOUT November looks like the business month of the year for F&B professionals. frirst up, we have the Italian Cuisine World Summit, next the Dubai World Hospitality Championship, then the triple threat of Sweets & Snacks Middle East, The Specialty Food Festival and SEAFEX and then, ﬁnally, SIAL Middle East.

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INDUSTRY TALK How to make menus healthier.

PRODUCT FOCUS Did you know that US cheeses are increasingly winning major awards at international cheese competitions?

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UP FRONT / editors letter

Hold the gluten A recent survey has revealed that more than a quarter of Americans now eat gluten-free foods to help them lose weight. With the recent FDA ruling on gluten-free labeling standards, the popularity of gluten-free foods shows no signs of slowing down in the US and, according to recent research from Mintel, it’s not just the gluten-intolerant who are filling their carts with wheat-free products. 65% of consumers who eat or used to eat gluten-free foods do so because they think they are healthier and 27% eat them because they feel they aid in their weight loss efforts. Amanda Topper, food analyst at Topper, finds it “really interesting to see that consumers think gluten-free foods are healthier and can help them lose weight because there’s been no research affirming these beliefs”. The gluten-free market is expected to reach $10.5b by year end, almost a 50% increase over the past two years. However, only 1% of the US population suffers from celiac disease. The obvious conclusion is that people are turning to such foods for reasons other than gluten allergy - cited in the report are sensitivity, inflammation and combating depression. Further, it means that manufacturers who have made product claims that gluten-free foods are natural and additive and preservative free have succeeded in convincing large parts of the US market. Their positioning as having multiple health benefits, such as low fat or no animal ingredients, may be leading to consumer perceptions that gluten-free products are healthier than products that contain gluten. Interesting for us here in the Gulf is that this appears to be one food trend where we are lagging seriously behind the US. Gluten-free sections of most supermarkets are quite sparse, gluten-free dishes relatively uncommon on menus and dedicated gluten-free cafes unheard of. How quickly this will change as people become more aware of health issues related to diet it is hard to say, however there is a clear market opportunity for HORECA suppliers and F&B professionals to start making a difference and impacting their revenue projections.

PUBLISHER DOMINIC DE SOUSA GROUP COO NADEEM HOOD PUBLISHING DIRECTOR, HOSPITALITY DIVISION DAVE REEDER dave@cpidubai.com M: +971 55 105 3773 GROUP SENIOR EDITOR, HOSPITALITY DIVISION MELANIE MINGAS melanie.mingas@cpimediagroup.com M: +971 56 758 7834 EDITOR DAVE REEDER SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION CHRIS HOWLETT PHOTOGRAPHER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION ANAS CHERUR JAY COLINA DIRECTOR OF SALES, HOSPITALITY DIVISION ANKIT SHUKLA ankit.shukla@cpimediagroup.com M: +971 55 257 2807 SENIOR SALES MANAGER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION AJAY SHARMA ajay.sharma@cpimediagroup.com M: +971 50 419 5067 PRODUCTION MANAGER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION VA DEVAPRAKASH WEB DEVELOPER, HOSPITALITY DIVISION LOUIE ALMA DISTRIBUTION MANAGER ROCHELLE ALMEIDA SUBSCRIPTIONS www.cpievents.net/mag/magazine.php PRINTED BY Printwell Printing Press LLC, Dubai, UAE PUBLISHED BY

Head Office, PO Box 13700, Dubai, UAE Tel: +971 4 440 9100 Fax: +971 4 447 2409 Group Office, Dubai Media City Building 4, Office G08, Dubai, UAE A publication licensed by IMPZ © Copyright 2013 CPI. All rights reserved. While the publishers have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information in this magazine, they will not be held responsible for

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UP FRONT / out and about

Getting value from SIAL 4*"- .JEEMF &BTU UIF SFHJPOhT GBTUFTU HSPXJOH # # FWFOU GPS UIF GPPE ESJOL BOE IPTQJUBMJUZ JOEVTUSJFT SFUVSOT 5IF FWFOU XJMM CF IFME GSPN UI /PWFNCFS BU UIF "%/&$ BOE BT XFMM BT FYIJCJUT BOE OFX QSPEVDUT JUT DPOGFSFODF TDIFEVMF QSPNJTFT TPNF NVTU BUUFOE TFTTJPOT Industry seminars allow SIAL visitors to maximise the beneямБts of attending and get more knowledge about innovative trends, industry updates, new products and solutions, review and adjust their company strategies, meet with regional and international industry leaders, hear from their peers, participate in debates on the hottest issues and more. For three days, SIAL conferences will become a platform for interactive discussions and industry expertise. Key themes in the market will be featured in these food and travel catering sector tailored gatherings. HereтАЩs a quick guide.

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DAY 1 Adapting new in-ямВight trends to airline strategy (ITCA) t "OBMZTJOH QBTTFOHFS FYQFDUBUJPOT BOE OFFET t #BMBODJOH DMJFOU EFNBOET BOE BJSMJOF DPODFQU UISPVHI innovation t "EBQUJOH MPHJTUJDT BOE WBMVF DIBJO UP UIF SBQJEMZ changing market and passenger proямБle Behind the curtain: differentiating inямВight services (ITCA) t %FMJWFSJOH XPSME DMBTT PO CPBSE DBUFSJOH BOE FYDFMMFOU food quality through an optimised food supply chain t 3FJOWFOUJOH JOnJHIU ' # TFSWJDFT BOE ESJWJOH JOJUJBUJWFT to address airline competition t 'JOEJOH UIF SJHIU UBMFOU JO UIF FWFS DIBOHJOH NBSLFU t $SFBUJOH B EJBMPHVF UP EJGGFSFOUJBUF GSPN UIF DPNQFUJUJPO <1BOFM EJTDVTTJPO> Challenges and opportunities for healthy nutrition in the Gulf t %JTDPWFSJOH FBUJOH IBCJUT JO UIF 6"& BOE UIF (VMG UP understand the challenges of healthy nutrition t 1SPNPUJOH BXBSFOFTT BOE SFHVMBUJPOT PO IFBMUIZ products and organic food t 'BDJOH UIF BGUFSNBUI PG SFHJPOBM FBUJOH IBCJUT BOE speciямБcs of the local lifestyle Healthy nutrition t )FBMUIZ GPPE WFSTVT MJGFTUZMF GPPE )PX UP NBLF healthy nutrition attractive to consumers? t 0SHBOJD GPPE QSPWJEFST HMVUFO GSFF QSPEVDUT EJBCFUJD QSPEVDUT <1BOFM EJTDVTTJPO> Driving excellent F&B operations t 8IBU BSF UIF TFDSFUT UP SFUBJOJOH DVTUPNFS MPZBMUZ t 5IF ' # TDFOF JO SFDFOU ZFBST IBT CFDPNF WFSZ DPNQFUJUJWF IPX EP XF UIFSFGPSF TUBZ POF TUFQ ahead of the competition? t 8JUI UIF IPTQJUBMJUZ NBSLFU HSPXJOH BU B USFNFOEPVT pace, this poses a challenge in retaining talent. t )PX EPFT B DIFG ESJWFO SFTUBVSBOU PQFSBUJPO EJGGFS to a traditional off the shelf branded restaurant FOWJSPONFOU 8IJDI XBZ JT UIF NBSLFU IFBEJOH )PX EP XF DIPPTF SFMJBCMF TVQQMJFST <1BOFM EJTDVTTJPO> Food trends and innovations keynote 1SFTFOUBUJPO PO UIF DVSSFOU GPPE USFOET BOE innovations, introduction of the exhibitors' new products and highlights of the competition. DAY 2 Driving smart policies to ensure food security and minimise import dependence t 6OEFSTUBOEJOH UIF DPOEJUJPOT PG PWFSTFBT GPPE EFQFOEFODF TFDVSJUZ QSJDJOH TBGFUZ SFHVMBUJPOT export restrictions t &ODPVSBHJOH MPDBM QSPEVDUJPO BOE TVQQPSUJOH agricultural initiatives abroad to secure food supplies

DAY 3 From commodity to a powerful ME brand t (MPCBM DBTF TUVEJFT PO TVDDFTT TUPSJFT MJLF $BMJGPSOJBO "MNPOET "MQIPOTP .BOHPFT BOE #BTNBUJ 3JDF t %P EBUFT IBWF UIF QPUFOUJBM PG CFDPNJOH B .JEEMF &BTU FYDMVTJWF QSPEVDU t 0WFSDPNJOH HMPCBM QFSDFQUJPOT BOE NBLJOH EBUFT B EBZ UP EBZ FTTFOUJBM JO UIF EJFUT Dates FortiямБed - The potential of dates for food manufacturers <1BOFM EJTDVTTJPO> t %FmOJOH UIF SPMF PG UIF QSJWBUF TFDUPS JO UIF JTTVF PG food security Gulf agriculture, innovations and food supply t %JTDVTTJOH (VMG BHSJDVMUVSBM QPUFOUJBM t "OBMZTJOH JSSJHBUJPO FGmDJFODJFT JO UIF EFTFSU DPVOUSJFT t %FWFMPQNFOU PG BSJE BSFBT GPS GPPE QSPEVDUJPO Driving innovation in onboard supply chain and inямВight services (ITCA) The effect of the airline industries' adoption of business intelligence and analytics technology on the GPPE BOE CFWFSBHF TVQQMJFS *5$"

t )PX BJSMJOFT BSF VTJOH #* BOE BOBMZUJDT UFDIOPMPHZ UP better manage their assets t 5IF JNQBDU PG CFUUFS QMBOOJOH PO UIF ' # TVQQMJFS t %JTDPWFSJOH OFX PQQPSUVOJUJFT PQFOFE UP UIF ' # supplier due to better planning on the airline and caterers' behalf. Food traceability and supply chain management t %FWFMPQJOH DPOTJTUFOU TUBOEBSET BOE BEFRVBUF technology in the fast moving world t $PNQMZJOH XJUI DPEFT JOUFSOBUJPOBM SFHVMBUJPOT BOE QSBDUJDFT UP TBUJTGZ UIF OFFE PG UIF FOE VTFS t *OUFHSBUJOH MPDBM GPPE QPMJDJFT UP TVDDFTTGVMMZ NBOBHF food chains and minimise risks Looking for opportunities and leading innovation in F&B business t %SJWJOH SFWFOVFT GSPN OFX USFOET t #FBUJOH UIF DPNQFUJUJPO XJUI JOOPWBUJPO t 3FBDIJOH PVU UP UIF DVTUPNFS JO UIF .JEEMF &BTU traditional versus innovative Product innovations Assessing opportunities in the halal market for your business and beneямБts of halal certiямБcation t )JHIMJHIUJOH UIF HSPXJOH EFNBOE GPS IBMBM QSPEVDUT around the world t %JTDVTTJOH DPOTVNFS IBCJUT PG .VTMJNT BOE OPO Muslims internationally to evaluate the growth of halal markets

Accelerating your brand success: the power of marketing and loyalty tools t *OTJHIUT JOUP JOOPWBUJWF NBSLFUJOH UBDUJDT UP ESJWF winning strategies of your brand t 6OEFSTUBOEJOH UIF SPMF PG TPDJBM NFEJB NFNCFSTIJQT special offers, prize draws, online services etc as engagement and loyalty tools t %FWFMPQJOH QBSUOFSTIJQ NPEFMT UP CFBU UIF competition How does your product look? t %JTDVTTJOH QBDLBHJOH USFOET JO UIF .JEEMF &BTU t .BUDIJOH UIF GBDF PG ZPVS QSPEVDU UP UIF .& customers t 3FBDIJOH DPOTVNFSTh UBTUF CVET XJUI ZPVS QSPEVDU wrap t $BTF TUVEJFT SFHJPOBM WFSTVT JOUFSOBUJPOBM Enhancing food safety and shaping hygiene culture t &OGPSDJOH GPPE TBGFUZ RVBMJmDBUJPOT UP DPNQMZ XJUI regulations and delivering quality food t 4VQFSWJTJOH BOE BVEJUJOH GPPE BOE XBUFS TBGFUZ standards to assess and eliminate risks t *NQSPWJOH GPPE TBGFUZ FYQFSUJTF UISPVHI USBJOJOH programmes Safety t #VJMEJOH B SPBENBQ GPS ' # TUBSU VQT t #SJOHJOH JOOPWBUJPO BT B QBSU PG CVTJOFTT TVDDFTT against big sharks t 1MBOOJOH B TUBSU VQ CBMBODJOH DPSSFDU FTUJNBUJPOT PG revenues with the working capital and cash t $POTJEFSJOH GVOEJOH PQUJPOT TVQQMJFS SFMBUJPOTIJQT BOE QBSUOFSTIJQ NPEFMT UP HJWF B LJDL TUBSU UP ZPVS OFX CVTJOFTT <1BOFM EJTDVTTJPO> Diagnosing your business: Is it franchisable? t "OBMZTJOH ZPVS CVTJOFTT NPEFM BOE CVTJOFTT WBMVF UP determine the readiness to duplicate t 6OEFSTUBOEJOH UIF LFZ TVDDFTT PG DMPOJOH UP BOPUIFS market and different customers t %FTJHOJOH B DPTU FGGFDUJWF GSBODIJTF TUSBUFHZ

The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2013

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UP FRONT / out and about

A trio of shows Three influential trade shows dedicated to niche sectors of the global food industry will attract thousands of trade visitors to the DWTC, from 17-19 November 2013. Powered by Gulfood, all three dedicated industry events will run alongside each other. With a substantial 35% increase in exhibition space allocated to the shows to accommodate exhibitor demand and powered by Gulfood, thousands of visitiors are expected at the shows. They are: Sweets & Snacks Middle East - Jointly organised by Koelnmesse GmbH and DWTC, this is the only trade show in the MENA region focusing on the sweets, snacks and confectionery industries. Now in its sixth year, the show will host more than 120 specialised exhibitors from 28 countries . With the Middle East sweet and savoury snacks market seeing more than 20% year-on-year growth for the past four years, the show represents a key element in the future for global industry growth and has become known as a truly international platform for product selection. The show will cover the entire industry from raw ingredients and processing to finished products. The Specialty Food Festival - To meet the growing market demand for fine, gourmet and niche food products, the Festival brings together the Middle East’s only dedicated gourmet and

fine food exhibition. The trade-only show has grown five-fold in the four years since its launch and brings together the region’s leading chefs, importers and exclusive retailers to source the finest products for refined and demanding palates. Expect a range of fine foods, from special breed meats and seafood to luxury chocolates, fresh organic produce and rare ingredients.

SEAFEX - As the region's first-ever dedicated seafood trade show for the food and hospitality industry, the show provides a much needed platform for the global seafood industry in the region. The full spectrum of the seafood industry, from the fresh catch to the consumer's plate, as well as cold storage, shipping and logistics solutions, will be showcased by over 51 exhibitors and 21 national pavilions. Organised by DWTC, the three shows welcomed 11,582 highly targeted F&B and hospitality professionals last year, looking to source new ingredients and products, identify new suppliers and secure distributor contracts for the lucrative MENA region. "As the organisers of Gulfood, the single largest annual food trade show in the world, the DWTC team are pleased to announce that the 2013 edition will be the largest to date due to excellent exhibitor feedback, both in terms of being able to reach the right target audience, and in the lucrative deals concluded," said Trixee Loh, Senior Vice President, DWTC. "With more than 330 exhibitors from around the world across the three shows this year, visitors have been able to access an unbelievably well-stocked pantry of ultra-premium fine food products and ingredients - something which is becoming increasingly important as the region's appetite for fine dining grows. We are extremely pleased with the feedback received from exhibitors and the success that we have seen. By running the three events concurrently we provide an excellent opportunity to get focus and depth on one hand, and breadth and range on the other.”

The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2013

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S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna pay homage to the unforgettable Maestro Luciano Pavarotti, greatest tenor of all times, who exported Italian excellence through the magnificence of Italian lyric opera. Talent of international acclaim, Luciano Pavarotti thanks to his amazing voice represented the same culture, passion and joy of being Italian that S.Pellegrino and Acqua panna share with the world.

Exclusively distributed by Horeca Trade L.L.C Tel: + 971 4 340 3330 Fax: + 971 4 340 3222 mail@horecatrade.ae

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UP FRONT / out and about

Antonella Ricci Al Fornello da Ricci, Ceglia Messapica

Domenico Criola Bella Napoli, Glasgow

Sergio Vineis, Il Patio Vineis, Biella

Italy comes to Dubai The Italian Cuisine World Summit - widely considered the world's most prestigious Italian food, drink and lifestyle event - is in Dubai this month, for the first time, thanks to the driving force of Chef Luca Signoretti, head chef at Roberto's. Previously hosted in Hong Kong, the fifth edition of the Italian Cuisine World Summit is bringing a host of real Italian culinary talent to Dubai, who will be hosted in some of the city’s leading Italian restaurants such as BiCE, BiCE Mare, Casa Mia, Bussola, Cavalli Club, Ronda Locatelli, L'Olivo, Positano, Roberto's, Rococo, Certo, Sicilia and Alta Badia. Mix 15 master chefs based in Italy with another ten Italian master chefs working outside their homeland from prestigious restaurants around the world including New York, Hong Kong, Singapore and Buenos Aires, then expect a great ragu of flavours, temperament and artistry. "With its huge premium hotel and restaurant infrastructure and open multicultural society, Dubai is the ideal place to host a Summit such as this and I'm delighted it has now become a reality," explains Luca Signoretti, head chef at Roberto’s. Signoretti had

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attended previous Summits in Hong Kong and was determined to bring the experience to Dubai. “We hope that it acts as a way of eleveting the level of chefs here in Dubai who are hosting guest chefs. Chef development never stops and here we’re perhaps not yet fully open - in Hong Kong, it was possible to get a full 360 degree of products. We want that here.” Signoretti is also a longstanding member of itchefs-GVCI, a big promoter of the event with its network of more than 2,200 chefs, restaurateurs and culinary professionals across 70 countries. “As Italian chefs we’re very lucky,” Signoretti explains. The Summit has an intense programme of events, including master cooking classes and the attendance of acrobatic pizza world champion, Master Gelatai. “I think this will bring food to a circus level and make it more entertaining,” Signretti insists. There will be also three exciting

competitions - Best Italian Pizza in the UAE, Pasta World Championship and Lavazza Best Espresso Contest. "Almost all master chefs coming from Italy will include a white truffle-based dish on his or her menu. November is the best month for white truffles in Italy - possibly the most sophisticated ingredient in Italian cuisine," Signoretti adds. He’s keen that the event will also focus on traditional skills. “For example, we have an old woman, a sfoglina, who rolls pasta by hand because her hands are naturally rough. No need of a rolling pin!” Also a focus will be a number of artisan products and produce new to the UAE. “We wanted to get small producers and we have, for instance, a pasta maker from Publia . we’re also bringing the first beef from Tuscany - wonderful beef from white working cattle. With that, we’ll have a well-known Italian butcher who’ll demonstrate how to break down a carcass Italian style. In Italy, if you pop into a butcher shop to but one T-Bone, they’ll give you 2kg of something else so you can experiment with cheaper cuts. I’m also very excited about the Piemontese beef coming over, perfect for tartars and carpaccio. It’s very lean red meat and maybe the healthiest you can find!” Although still finalising details of the Summit, Signoretti as already planning next year’s, which will expand to cover Abu Dhabi as well.

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P.O. Box 130 455, Abu Dhabi, U.A.E. T: +971 2 656 20 00; F: +971 2 656 50 01; www.aldahra.com Aldhara 1

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Winners all! The ямБrst Pro Chef Middle East Fine Dining Awards held at The H Hotel on October 28th 2013 were judged a great success by all who attended. Here's a round-up of the winners. See you in 2014!

WITH THANKS TO OUR SPONSORS: EXCLUSIVE MAIN COURSE SPONSOR

EXCLUSIVE CHEESE SPONSOR

EXCLUSIVE DESSERT SPONSOR

EXCLUSIVE WATER SPONSOR

EXCLUSIVE SPARKILING DRINK SPONSOR

CATEGORY SPONSORS

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EXCLUSIVE FOOTWEAR SPONSOR

EXCLUSIVE EDUCATION SPONSOR

EXCLUSIVE ENERGY DRINK SPONSOR

WITH SUPPORT FROM

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BEST TABLEWARE 2013

BEST GLASSWARE 2013

BEST COFFEE MACHINE 2013

RAK PORCELAIN

CRYSTAL ARC

NESPRESSO

JUNIOR CHEF OF THE YEAR

PASTRY CHEF OF THE YEAR 2013

SEAFOOD CHEF OF THE

2013, RAHIL RATHOD, RADISSON

PATRICE CABANNES

YEAR 2013, LUKE WONNACOTT

BLU DUBAI DEIRA CREEK

JUMEIRAH EMIRATES TOWERS

OSSIANO, ATLANTIS THE PALM

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MEAT CHEF OF THE YEAR 2013

EXECUTIVE CHEF OF THE

SUSTAINABILITY CHAMPION

TYSON PODOLSKI

YEAR 2013, THOMAS

OF THE YEAR 2013, UWE

PRIME 68, JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS

PENDAROVSKI SOFITEL JBR

MICHEEL, RADISSON BLU DUBAI DEIRA CREEK

INNOVATION CHEF OF THE

PRO CHEF OF THE YEAR 2013

BEST KITCHEN EQUIPMENT

YEAR 2013, DIRK HALTENHOF

NICK ALVIS/SCOTT PRICE

2013, MANITOWOC

THE OBEROI DUBAI

TABLE 9 BY NICK AND SCOTT

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BEST KITCHEN TOOLS 2013

BEST KNIVES 2013

BEST KITCHEN INNOVATION

PACOJET

VICTORINOX

2013, ANTI-GRIDDLE (POLYSCIENCE)

INDUSTRY CHAMPION OF

BEST SOMMELIER OF THE

TRAINING CHAMPION OF

THE YEAR 2013, CHRISTIAN

YEAR 2013, OLIVIER GASSELIN

THE YEAR 2013, FRANCESCO

GRADNITZER, JUMEIRAH GROUP

HAKKASAN

ARAYA SCAFA

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RESTAURANT MANAGER OF

BEST RESTAURANT OF THE

HYGIENE CHAMPION OF THE

THE YEAR 2013, VIKTORIJA

YEAR 2013, REFLETS PAR

YEAR 2013, BOBBY THULASI

PAPLAUSKIENE, TABLE 9 BY

PIERRE GAGNAIRE

DUBAI MUNICIPALITY

NICK AND SCOTT

CULINARY INFLUENCER OF THE YEAR 2013,

CULINARY AMBASSADOR OF THE YEAR 2013,

GABRIELE KURZ JUMEIRAH GROUP [ACCEPTED BY

MICHAEL KITTS THE EMIRATES ACADEMY OF

CHRISTIAN GRADNITZER]

HOSPITALITY MANAGEMENT

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Sponsors presenting awards A selection of our sponsors helped deliver congratulations and awards to our 2013 winners.

Jamie Ferguson, Regional Manager - Middle East North Africa, Meat & Livestock Australia (MLA)

Frederique Simon, Business Development Manager of Chef Middle East

Dr John Fong, Director of Marketing & International Relations, The Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management.

Majid Al Marri, Director Hotel ClassiďŹ cation at Department of Tourism & Commerce Marketing

Ankit Shukla, Sales Director, Pro Chef Middle East

Rajan JS, Managing Director of JM Foods

Bassam Bousaleh, Regional Program Manager AMFI, on behalf of the US Dairy Export Council

HE Sheikh Salem Al Qasimi, Vice Chairman of Nalee International

Pierre Cantrel, Southern Europe and Middle East & Africa Area Manager for Valrhona and Zeyneb Larabi, Middle East & Africa Area Manager for Valrhona

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Main course served at the awards Grilled Australian beef tenderloin with onion marmalade, fondant potato, green asparagus bundle and wild mushroom sauce Recipe from Gaurav Gulati, Senior Sous Chef, The H Hotel Ingredients 180g Australian beef tenderloin 300g red onion 50g sugar 50ml balsamic vinegar 1 potato 6 green asparagus 200g wild mushroom 200ml chicken stock 100g shallots 50g butter 100ml cream 1 leek 2 thyme sprigs 100ml olive oil 20g rock salt

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Beef jus 2kg veal bones 500g eef trimmings 2 white onion 2 garlic 2 sage sprigs Method 1 For beef jus, roast the bones at 180C in pre heated oven for 90 minutes. Take a deep pot, cook the onion and garlic until golden brown, add sage and bones and water and keep on a slow ﬁre, reducing by 75%. Take another pot with beef trimmings, cook until golden brown, then add diced onion and half garlic. Add butter to give more colour. Strain the excess fat and put back again into the pot. Pour on the veal stock and reduce until thick. Strain and pass through sieve.

For wild mushroom sauce, sauté mushrooms with chopped shallots, add beef jus, add butter and cream. Keep on side. For fondant potato, peel the potato, cut into thick slices. Take hot pan, pour in olive oil, cook the potato from both sides until golden brown, then add garlic and thyme. Add seasoning and one cup of chicken stock. Cover with lid and keep on low heat until cooked. For asparagus bundle, blanch the green asparagus, make a bundle with leeks. Sauté with butter and season. For onion marmalade, slice the onion, take a hot pan and sauté onion until golden brown, then add balsamic vinegar and sugar. Cook until tender. Grill the beef on a hot grill, on both sides, then season. Finish in oven to required doneness.

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food culture / FEATURES

In the Emirati kitchen

As part of the Dubai World Hospitality Championship (DWHC), the ﬁrst phase evaluation of the Homemade Dishes category has taken place. We talk to the Championship President about the importance of food and hospitality in Emirati culture.

I think there’s a lot of misconception about Emirati food. Is our food healthy? Yes! As a child, we only ever ate meat on a Friday – every other day was ﬁsh. Now, yes we see many Emiratis suffering from food related illnesses but the truth is that of you eat too much meat and fat every day then that diet is not good for you. The old ways were healthier. I think what is important for us to tackle is the issue of a lack of Emirati food for visitors and expats. Where is our own cuisine offered to guests? I believe all hotels should be offering our local food – every restaurant have at least one or even up to four Emirati dishes on offer. Well, perhaps not every one but the food should be easily accessible. But hotels must have our food. They will need special kitchens top produce it but I believe it will become big business and they need to invest – they have done well out of this country. Will it be difﬁcult for them? Well, you have to spend to get more.

E Ahmed bin Hareb Al Falahi, President of Dubai World Hospitality Championship, is a real enthusiast for Emirati cuisine: “Emirati homes are a wealth of culinary heritage that needs to revived and preserved for posterity. This is what we hope to do with the Homemade Dishes category. We have tried to ensure that participants are made absolutely comfortable and, thanks to the involvement of women’s associations, we have been able to engage Emiratis across the UAE in this culinary extravaganza.” Mona Al Suwaidi, Emirati Competition coordinator from the Dubai Women’s Association, agrees: “Emirati cuisine is unique and deserves to be acknowledged at a global level and DWHC is the ﬁrst step in that direction. The response we have received so far has been overwhelming, and we look forward to the next few weeks.” Organised by the Za’abeel Palace Hospitality under the directive of His Highness Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Crown Prince of Dubai, the Dubai World Hospitality Championship will take place from 16-18th November 2013 at the Dubai World Trade Centre. Over 700 professional and amateur chefs will demonstrate their artistic and aesthetic competencies at the Championship, which will also feature a Heritage and Hospitality Exhibition to welcome the visitors. We asked HE Ahmed bin Hareb Al Falahi to explain in more detail what the Championship will mean to Emirati cuisine. What do you see as the key beneﬁt? The purpose of participation of local women

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deliver the quantity of food required. We want people who are really committed because we are ready to give support to locals to start new businesses in the food sector. The quality has to be up to European standards. When people move on to food as a business then, of course, the Municipalities will put in place rules and regulations to guarantee HACCP compliance. However, for Emirati food to be commercial, it must have the right taste. That’s why we’ve provided home style kitchens in the Trade Centre, to duplicate how local cooking uses different procedures and ways of preparing.

Will the availability of local food increase tourism? Of course, though at ﬁrst the impact will be from the GCC. Currently, to eat their own food they have to bring it with them and cook it on a small burner in their room. We all do this, even when we go to Europe we take rice and dried ﬁsh… Everybody loves to try local food. When we go to India, for example, we have to try the food. It’s part of the culture and the difference from our own is good.

and students is to get them out of their homes to the Dubai World Trade Centre so the general public can see our native produce. In choosing the participants, it was important to create a proﬁle of how much they have a knowledge of our traditional cuisine. It’s all about passing on our old family ways to the new generation. Of course, cooking for family and cooking for visitors to DWTC are very different… In their homes there is not much for women to do, so we want to help them begin in business. For them to participate we need some guarantees – of hygiene, for example, quality and the ability to

Do you enjoy food? Do I cook? Yes! My whole family loves to cook, but my wife prefers to cook mainly European dishes. When it’s local food, I am the cook. My son is the same and, like me, has cooked from an early age. My daughter likes to as well, but asks me to teach her. I am proud to say that my family began the whole Emirati restaurant scene. I grew up in Shindaga – we have old roots in that area – and in 1983 we opened a dhow restaurant opposite the British Embassy. All the cooks were ones that my mother had taught in our kitchen. Later we moved the dhow to Al Boom Tourist Village but still the cooks that spread across the Emirates cooking local food were ones that had learned how to cook from my mother. Later, I was in charge of hospitality at DWTC for three years and, when the IMF meeting came to Dubai, it was the ﬁrst time that real Emirati food had been served at DWTC.

November 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

10/31/13 7:06 PM

FEATURES / food culture

ike most of us expats, I've tried the food of the Middle East but know next to nothing about the local dishes of the UAE. Ask most expats how many Emiratis they've met and the answer will be few but for very different reasons. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s partly down to ratio - Emiratis make up less than 20% of the population, the rest of us are expatriates. However, Emiratis are rightly ďŹ ercely proud of their culture. But what does it consist of? To begin to understand a nation it's often a good bet to start with its food. This is also a tricky one: In a city where restaurants are numbered in the hundreds and every cuisine is represented, there are only a small handful serving an Emirati menu. To taste the real deal you had to enter people's homes. Along with a group of food bloggers, I was lucky enough to receive such an invitation when Arwa from La Mere Culinaire invited us for a cooking session in her home - a special and rare privilege and Arwa admitted to me afterwards that her family had a few trepidations about inviting a crowd of strangers not only into their home, but into their kitchen, as anyone might. You would never have known this by the welcome we received. As well as sharing our passion for food and cookery, she believes it is important that expatriates do get a chance to really understand Emirati ways, values and culture. Coffee and fresh mint tea in a formal reception room greeted us, followed by a traditional Emirati breakfast beautifully laid out on an enormous gleaming dining table. Arwa took great trouble to serve us all personally: The phrase 'treated like royalty' is often used but rarely so apposite. The breakfast spread included: t .VIBMMB PS .IBMB DSFQFT QBODBLFT NBEF with dates. t $IBNJ B UZQF PG DVSE DIFFTF NBEF CZ TJNNFSJOH yoghurt, drizzled with homemade butter or ghee. t #UIFFUI PS CBUIFFUI "SBCJD TXFFUT UIBU MPPL MJLF ma'amoul but are made from dates and spices. t %BOHBX MJHIUMZ TQJDFE CPJMFE DIJDLQFBT Moving into the light, airy kitchen, we met Arwa's mother who didn't bat an eyelid as we oohed and aahed over her well-stocked, glassfronted fridges neatly arranged with fresh fruit, vegetables and jars of spices. She was ready for us with ingredients chopped like a professional and a small gas-stove placed on the table so we could all get a good view. An instinctive and

THE Emirati hospitality

Imagine inviting a group of people whom you've never met or hardly know into your home and lavishing the best food and drink and an unreserved warm welcome upon them. This is a tale of Emirati cooking, but also of gracious hospitality, as Sally Prosser reports.

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food culture / FEATURES

Her family had a few trepidations about inviting a crowd of strangers not only into their home, but into their kitchen as anyone might.

generous cook she demonstrated how to make Fogat Diyay, a rice dish that literally means 'chicken on top'. This could also be made with pieces of firm fish. To make it, chicken pieces are rubbed with a four-spice mixture (cinnamon, cloves, black pepper and nutmeg). Chopped onions are sautéd in oil (with the lid on to soften not brown), then very finely chopped ginger and garlic (like a paste) is added, followed shortly by the chicken pieces. Chopped tomatoes are briefly stirred in, then the spices. First there is bzar then a little more of the four-spice mix, turmeric, whole green chillies, dried limes, whole cardamom, some water, cumin, salt and lemon juice. When the chicken is almost cooked, the pieces are removed and rice that has been

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soaked in water (for ten minutes) added. The pot is covered and cooked in a low oven (150°C) for about 15 minutes or until most of the liquid has been absorbed. If more salt is needed it is added in salt water, so you do not need to stir the rice (and break up the grains). Chicken is placed back into the rice very carefully, covered and placed back in the oven for about ten minutes. It is served drizzled with homemade spiced ghee. There are no quantities given as Arwa's mother is an instinctive and natural cook. The spices ﬁlled the air and breakfast suddenly seemed a long time ago. Our meal was served, again personally by Arwa, with pickled onions, mango and limes. The depth of spice combined with

the dried limes in the chicken was fantastic. Like all really good cooking, the meal was delicious because of the attention to detail with the ingredients. The ghee is homemade, the dates and chicken from the family farm, the spices chosen with extra care. I wanted to rush home there and then and throw the entire contents of my own spice cupboard away.

Sally Prosser is a Dubai-based food blogger. A version of this article appeared on her blog: www.mycustardpie.com

November 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

10/31/13 7:07 PM

FEATURES / industry talk

Health is a perpetual topic of conversation in the F&B sector and chefs are, more and more, having to respond both to customer demand and general trends in the industry. We rounded up a good handful and asked them what's happening in their kitchens.

hat trends do you see in the market towards healthier menu choices? Gariele Kurz: The current trends are gluten free and vegan food, as well as healthier kids food choices on menus. However, healthier menu choices should not mistakenly be reduced on either allergies or dietary requirements. As a health food professional I would say though there is a movement in the right direction. Chefs still tend to answer demand on the market rather than being creative trendsetters in this field. Nick Alvis: Fresh produce is key to modern day menus and there are so many more non-meat led dishes on menus these days which are most definitely healthier. Tarek Mouriess: The discerning traveller is moving towards healthier food choices. Based on the current economic forecast, culinary trends will be dictated by affordability, value for money and nourishment over taste and presentation. Locally secured produce coupled with Middle Eastern cuisine is carving out a niche for itself in the global arena along with the use of fresh ingredients. Thomas Pendarovski: There are more healthy options available for our customers on a lot of menus in the market. We can see calorie counts, gluten and/or lactose free menus and the usage of organic and sustainable produce. How far and how can chefs encourage those trends? Kurz: A chef should embrace a healthy lifestyle in order to understand it. Own experience of how the choice of food and its preparation can transform health and wellbeing is pretty fascinating. Similar important is communication and transparence to build trust. What exactly we do to make this dish a healthier choice? We at Jumeirah Group started with our global wellness brand Talise to not only add generic healthier choices to our menus which we call 'Flavours of Health'. We also dedicated our entire menu offering in all Talise Fitness and Talise Spas across the globe to detailed health and fitness aspirations. 'You are what you eat' - Our guests can choose food that clearly supports skin beauty,

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OUR SELECTION OF CHEFS GIVING US THEIR VIEWS ON HEALTHIER MENU DEVELOPMENT ARE: t Gabriele Kurz, Talise Wellbeing Chef, Jumeirah Group t Nick Alvis, Chef Patron, table 9 by nick and scott t Tarek Mouriess, Executive Chef, Fujairah Rotana Resort & Spa t Thomas Pendarovski, Executive Chef, Soﬁtel Dubai Jumeirah Beach

Thomas Pendarovski weight loss, shape, or detox to name a few. We offer practical advice in the form of cooking classes, nutritional consultations and information on our blog www.talisenutrition.com Alvis: Get away from the meat and two veg way of thinking and bring out ﬂavours of individual ingredients. Mouriess: It is important that we keep up-todate with the latest food trends and cater to the global palette by ensuring that our guests have an abundant choice of healthy items. Pendarovski: By incorporating those options and

promoting a healthier life style through the media. Also there needs to be a balance between eating well and healthy, as well as exercising regularly. Also we as chefs can promote a healthier life style by leading by example. For example, I am exercising at least four times a week, a habit I am promoting amongst my team and my patrons if I have the chance. My team sees me working out, so some of them have formed a running club, which I am very excited about. Should dishes be labelled as 'healthy' or is it better to make more 'under the hood' changes? Kurz: I think it is important to talk about healthy food choices if we offer some. However we should be sensible to the theme and not just label something as healthy without having done our homework of studying what makes food healthy and what not. Profound knowledge is the necessary first step before execution. Alvis: I think we are learning every day about what is and is not healthy, so as a chef I think it's our responsibility to incorporate healthy food and dishes on our menu. Mouriess: It is imperative that dishes be labeled healthy. The traveller today has the right to know the ingredients of the dish and its effects. And it should be introduced to the public by highlighting the benefits it offers and the longevity it can give. Pendarovski: I believe the dishes should be properly described by using the correct terminology, such as 'line caught, 'wild, organic', 'organically grown,' and the like. Sofitel adapted the 'delight menu' from Quiberon in France. This hotel has a specialised spa and dietitians to help promote a healthier lifestyle. The biggest steps that can be taken quickly to a healthier diet? And a menu design? Kurz: Here are my top tips for a healthier lifestyle. Skip white sugar - good replacements are agave syrup, acacia honey or stevia. They all have almost no taste and are excellent to cook or bake with. This is also a tip for drinks. Drink a sufficient amount of water every day. It can be flavoured like

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10/31/13 7:06 PM

industry talk / FEATURES

Tarek Mouriess

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we do at Jumeirah with our signature herb water or nonalcoholic light fruit punches. Skip white flour and products made out of it and white rice where possible. Instead take a serious approach to more wholesome ingredients on a menu and replace white rice with brown, white pasta with brown pasta etc, serve potatoes skin on, choose nuts and seeds skin on rather than the peeled version. Have some great raw food every day. 30 % raw is highly recommended for sufficient vitamin supply. Raw is not only a salad or a fruit platter. Think of sprouts, wraps, gazpachos, sorbets (if not cooked), mueslis, smoothies, dried fruits etc. Make the effort to adding a rainbow of colur through tasty vegetable dishes to your menu. Think of all techniques you know such as raw preparations, marinating, macerating, sous vide cooking, grilling, baking, steaming or filling. Go for all sorts of vegetables and appreciate their individual beauty rather than the traditional blanching of the usual mix of broccoli, cauliflower, carrot and zucchini. With a significant increase of plant based food decrease in the same time the volume of meat on your plate. Look at fat differently. Fat is in general not bad for health when taken in the right quality and right amount. What definitely to avoid? Roux, deep fried foods, heavy fatty foods like cream sauces and gravies. What definitely to recommend? Add a little raw avocado, nuts and seeds, a drizzle of a very good quality extra virgin oil added last minute before serving and not already during cooking brings much value to a dish. Alvis: We are constantly bombarded with health advice, so an interest in what is going on in the world and what is happening on leading restaurants' menus is vital, if that’s what you want to achieve. Mouriess: A healthier diet doesn’t only consist of healthy food items but a combination of a controlled lifestyle and exercise. The first step is controlling portion sizes during meals, spreading smaller quantities over six meals a day thus allowing the body to accustom itself to the food intake and allowing sufficient digestion time. Inclusion of fresh fruits, green vegetables and loads of water on a daily basis is surely a step towards a healthier lifestyle. Menu design would include many factors depending upon an individual’s requirements. Pendarovski: Small portions is one of the answers. The rule of thumb is to use the palm of your hand as a guideline for the size of your protein. If you would like to control your weight, use white meats. Double the portions on your greens and other vegetables. As for the menu design, there are no quick fixes. The lifestyle has to change within yourself your eating habits, and as mentioned before, your exercise routine. My menus reflect my beliefs and I display all those healthier options. With the rise of organic and sustainable food in the retail chain, are you surprised that there isn't a similar rise in the number of health focused restaurants? Kurz: The transition from just a delicious but 'bad

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FEATURES / industry talk

for you' menu to a delicious health food infused menu has already begun. The more health food trained chefs put their creativity into healthy menus, the more we will see it reflecting in the restaurant industry over time. Alvis: I’m very sorry to say it, but it’s all about the market that you are targeting and if money is being made then I feel there will be little change. We spend months designing menus and have our own 'no meat, no fish, vegetarian tasting menu'. It is quite popular and obviously well perceived by vegetarians but is not totally health focused. Mouriess: Organic and sustainable foods are definitely a trend that is catching up. More than a trend, it is a lifestyle choice towards a healthier living. Today restaurants, including fast food chains, have introduced healthier options in their menus. I believe that the health focused restaurants will definitely pick up pace in the near future as people get educated about a healthy lifestyle. Pendarovski: We have seen a lot more restaurants in Dubai opening up, which are promoting organic and sustainable food. For example, the Organic Supermarket has a restaurant attached, that is usually very busy. The lifestyle change will grow and continue to evolve and draw in customers. Roughly, what proportion of dishes on your menu would you class as 'healthy'? Kurz: At Jumeirah our general menus offer around 25-30% healthier choices. We have added to our banquet offering packages with only healthy food. Our dedicated menus in Talise Spas and Talise Fitness facilities offer 95% healthy food. Alvis: I think that we have a balanced menu. We have gone away from so many buttery and cream based sauces and tend to use a lot more vinaigrette style dressings and sauces, as well as use a lot of raw vegetables, trying to be a bit lighter on the palate and cut through any fatty or heavy ingredients. I believe that in the UAE we are a little behind and if we were to put a plate of amazingly fresh, crispy radishes in front of some of our guests and charge 80 dhs then they would question it. Also the cost of getting the best ingredients is sometimes unsustainable for an independent restaurant and after two days the quality is sometimes poor, so we need to be a little clever on how we put our dishes together. Mouriess: Similar to all successful restaurants, we will include a varied menu to satisfy not only the palettes but the lifestyle inspired by current healthy eating trends. We include a wide variety of fresh food items and also tailor dishes to suit our customer preferences. Pendarovski: Produce sourcing and food preparation is key to a healthy lifestyle. All our dishes are produced in - house and with the customer's well being in mind. I would say that approx. 70% of our dishes can be classified as 'healthy'. The other 30% might be a little heavier but I use smaller portions. You have to indulge from once in a while - life is too short.

Gabriele Kurz

Nick Alvis

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Finally, in general, do you think chefs and other F&B professionals look after their heath? Kurz: The general and typical F&B professional is not living a genuine healthy lifestyle. Not only food wise, also sleep or work life balance has often much room for improvement. However I see an increase of awareness that healthy lifestyle does contribute significantly not only to personal wellbeing and fitness but in extent to productivity and creativity at work. Alvis: Being in the industry we are far more aware of what is and is not healthy, but the younger generation needs more education on this and staff canteen companies should do more to encourage healthier meals. Mouriess: Chefs and F&B professionals work very long hours and it does become difficult to mind a diet. However, to practice what we preach, we have become conscious of a healthy lifestyle and try to follow it as far as we can. Pendarovski: Generally, as a goup we need to adapt our lifestyle further to improve our health.

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FEATURES / product focus

US cheeses are winners

In competition after competition, cheeses from the USA are winning awards and praise from judges, mirroring the way in which New World wines are also taking the glory away from many Old World favourites. We examine the phenomenon.

t the 2012 World Cheese Awards, American cheeses claimed a quarter of the top 16 ‘world’s best cheeses’, more than any other country and twice more than France, Switzerland and the UK. In total, the USA placed nine cheeses in the top 55 – aremarkable achievement. Amongst the leaders were Harbison from Cellars at Jasper Hill, Rogue River Blue from Rogue Creamery, Bandage Wrtapped Cheddar from Fiscalini Cheese Company and Shepsog from Grafton Village Cheese Company. These results were not unusual. The awardwinning characteristics of US cheese – and how they rival their European counterparts – have been dominating international cheese awards. And a good part of the reason for that has been the diversity of the American cheese landscape and how regional diversity has emerged even within the US. Remember that it was not merely European-style cheeses that were adapted by immigrants, but the immigrants themselves who brought their cheesemaking tradition and heritage to the US. Over time, those European-style cheeses transformed to have their own uniquely American characteristics and styles, based on the longstanding heritage of cheese making by European immigrants and the mixing of cultures that created a range of American original varieties, while also continuously honouring heritage and traditions. Although some European cheeses have been deliberately developed and marketed as versions of other countries’ originals – Somerset Brie in the UK, for example, being a copy of the real Brie from France – the mixing of cultures to develop new cheeses is purely an American phenomenon. And clearly one that ﬁnds favour with judging panels with, for example, US-made bries, goudas and manchegos being seen as superior or at least equal to their European counterparts in contests. Another important trend in the development of European style cheeses in the USA is the emergence of regional differences based on local factors. For example, cheddar made in Vermont is white whilst that from Wisconsin is orange. The nature also of different bacteria and ageing processes in different regions is producing more variety.

American cheese makers now produce over 400 premium cheese varieties, from Europeanstyle such as cheddar and mozzarella to American originals like monterey jack, colby and cream cheese. US cheese makers have pioneered many advances in their craft and their accomplishments have not gone unnoticed. Competing side-by-side with their European counterparts, they consistently continue to win top accolades at international competitions such as the World Cheese Awards (WCA) and the World Championship Cheese Contest (WCCC). As well as winning 82 medals at the 2012 WCA, US cheese makers also dominated the 2012 WCCC competition, the world’s largest technical cheese competition, earning gold medals in 55 of the total 82 categories judged. The World Cheese Awards are among the largest of their kind, attracting top cheese judges and authorities from around the world. Almost 2,630 cheeses competed this year, from more than 29 countries. US participation and impact has grown steadily in the last decade, according to Bob Farrand, the WCA chairman: “The ever-

growing participation of US cheese into this global competition has completely transformed the way Europe views US cheese makers. It was in the mid-1990s that a single cheese maker entered an 18-month-old Dry Jack from Sonoma County and our judges realised for the ﬁrst time that US cheese is not all mild processed blocks of yellow." As one of the British judges commented, ‘If that’s typical of US cheese, Europe needs to watch out!’ “There were more US cheeses entered in this year’s competition than ever before and American cheese makers have been bringing home medals year in and year out,” explains Angélique Hollister, director of cheese and manufactured products, USDEC. “Every time US cheese makers have this kind of success in international competitions it helps to dispel the myth that the United States only produces cheese designed for cheeseburgers and pizza. The credibility that is being earned as American specialty cheese makers continue to grow and develop our cheese craft has a halo effect on all US dairy products wherever they are sold overseas.”

Feature sponsored by:

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product focus / FEATURES

“The ever-growing participation of US cheese into this global competition has completely transformed the way Europe views US cheese makers.” - Bob Farrand, Chairman, World Cheese Awards

Information kindly supplied by the US Dairy Export Council.

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November 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / country focus

As part of Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ďŹ rst national indigenous festival, Corroboree, resident chefs at Sydney Botanic Gardens have taken traditional aboriginal bush tucker to design a themed lunch menu with a twist. Words and pictures by Melanie Mingas

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country focus / CHEFS

efore its ‘discovery’ by European explorers in the 1600s, Australia’s Aboriginal people led a nomadic life remarkably in tune with the earth and its produce. From insects to plants, animals and ﬁsh, the ingenuity of their culinary habits makes modern nutritional science look like hocus pocus. Honing the ability to outwit even the most

poisonous of their surrounding ﬂora and fauna, the Aboriginal people discovered plants that taste like sweet potato, fruits with seven times the antioxidant concentration of blueberries and of course that great Aboriginal staple, Witchety Grub. At the Sydney Botanic Gardens, Aboriginal heritage is the dish of the day with on-site chefs Todd Hunt and Brad Jones re-working traditional

Aboriginal ingredients into modern dishes to create a lunch menu that is both satiating and educating. Served throughout November as part of the Corroboree Festival, the ﬁrst national indigenous festival celebrating all things Aboriginal from art to food, performance and education, the dishes are a guided tour of a culture that thrived for 45,000 years.

THE DISH: Kingﬁsh Carpaccio with native ﬁnger limes and pine nut oil

THE DISH: Roasted baby beetroot, goats curd and illiwarra plum honey

THE HEALTH BENEFITS: Known as citrus caviar, native ﬁnger limes are considered by chefs to be superior to traditional limes for both taste and versatility. Nutritionally, all six varieties possess high concentrations of folate, potassium and vitamin C.

THE HEALTH BENEFITS:

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The Illiwara plum has a resinous quality and a pleasant sweetness on the tongue. With seven times the antioxidant concentration of blueberries, research published in the British Journal of Nutrition concluded the fruit has been known to decrease proliferation of certain cancer types.

November 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

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CHEFS / country focus

THE DISH: Vichyssoise and lemon aspen

THE DISH: Pork rillettes, tomato and native bush salt dressing

THE HEALTH BENEFITS: The thick Vichyssoise soup of puréed leaks, onion, potato and cream is delicately complemented by the eucalypt and honey ﬂavours of Lemon Aspen, followed by a tart after taste of citrus.

THE HEALTH BENEFITS: Aboriginal people weren’t just nutrition savvy, they also knew how to blend flavours. In this dish, native bush salt is used to dampen the powerful pork flavours and draw out the flavour of ripe ‘organic’ tomato.

THE DISH: Pomegranate, puffed rice and karkellan cereal yoghurt

THE DISH: Lemon aspen curd tarts

THE HEALTH BENEFITS: Nutrient dense pomegranate is one of the oldest known fruits. Salty karkalla originates from the south and is related to the pigface

THE HEALTH BENEFITS: Proving its versatility, lemon aspen can be used in both savoury and sweet dishes.

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country focus / CHEFS

THE DISH: Quandong meringues with vanilla custard

THE HEALTH BENEFITS: Tart but with a hint of cinnamon, quandong’s rich berry taste cuts through the vanilla ﬂavour to eliminate the guilt of an otherwise indulgent dessert.

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CHEFS / face to face

As modern as you like

Molecular gastronomy is not all about dry ice and a bunch of tricks, says Ross Clarke, former creative development chef at Fat Duck experimental kitchen and protégé of Heston Blumenthal.

oss Clarke is the kind of chef that likes to keep busy at all times. When we caught up with him on a recent trip to Dubai, he had his hands full with all sorts of quirky equipment, juice mixers and a ﬁshbowl of cold water and tea leaves he was attempting to make into a tea jelly! Ross began his career right at the bottom of the ladder, as a ﬁshmonger for Verveine Fishmarket Restaurant, where he later became a chef at the age of 21. He worked his way up to the top, having worked at Segreto, Madinat Jumeirah in Dubai for a brief period in between, and at a one-Michelin star seafood restaurant, Jetty in Christchurch, UK. Although he's only been a chef for just six years, he's come a long way, and counts working with eminent chef Heston Blumenthal from The Fat Duck, whom he worked closely with as a creative development chef for over a year until recently, as

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one of the most important feathers in his cap. Ross now heads up his own consulting company where he spends most of his time in the lab, developing recipes, or conducting home demonstrations in London and Dubai, where he teaches home chefs how to use professional equipment and techniques such as sous vides, dehydrators and matching food molecules. "Most people don't know that molecules in certain foods match and as a result pair well together. Carrots and thyme are a great combination, for example, so is white chocolate and caviar," he says. Even though Ross' ﬁeld of work does fall under what has come to be known widely as molecular gastronomy, the term isn't something he is particularly fond of. "It's just cooking. The only difference is that nowadays we know more than we used to. I like to refer to molecular gastronomy as modern-day cooking. If you can't cook basic

food, you can't do modern. It's as simple as that," You recently worked with Heston Blumenthal, the pioneer of molecular gastronomy. What was the experience like? It was great and I learned a lot! Three weeks after joining the restaurant, I was put onto trial and got a job from that. In that time, I helped devise dishes for Heston's TV shows and conducted lab experiments and external development with big companies such as McVitie's and Waitrose, where we developed the product for brands. So why did you leave? I left The Fat Duck to start my own venture as I felt it was the time to do so. Working with Heston was amazing! He's one of the nicest people I've ever met, and has one of the best palates and creative minds. I worked for a year and a half with him,

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face to face / CHEFS

MOLECULAR 101 Some of the typical equipment you'll find in a molecular gastronomy kitchen: t Microfibre net: A net that catches all sediments, however small, to make things like clear consommés more easily. t Anti-griddle: A cold surface with -40C temperatures to make instant ice cream and edible snow. t Dehydrator: This exposes ingredients to low temperatures for a long time, completely removing moisture, changing the texture but retaining and strengthening flavour. t Sous vide: A form of extreme slow cooking, vacuum sealed, on a precise low heat in a water bath, leading to guaranteed nearperfect results. According to Ross, "everything in Fat Duck is cooked in a sous vide!" t Pacojet: A revolutionary device that freezes ingredients, then processes it with highspeed blades, to produce smooth mousses, ice creams etc,. A good example of its use is to make ice creams with an unconventional ingredient such as meat. t Sonic prep: Something that looks like a sci-fi film prop, this homogenising machine emits ultrasonic sound waves to emulsify or infuse flavours; great for making infused oils or other liquids and ageing wines fast.

but the exposure I got within that span of time is great.

place, and that comes with the fundamental knowledge being good.

it and get creative. I think if you're self-driven and eager to learn, you make yourself better as well.

How would you describe your cooking style? I like taking classics and reinventing them. It's fun to play around with food and even though I love classical cuisine, I think people shouldn't just stick to it, but broaden their cooking style more. Food is all about the ﬁfth taste - umami.

What are the latest trends in, as you describe it, modern gastronomy? We'll be revisiting classical techniques, by using butter for sauces and possibly making jellies out of sweet corn purée and such. It's about making food taste like the classics, but look modern. Don't forget, people still love good, tasty food.

Do you think that certain aspects of molecular gastronomy can be translated into the home kitchen? Yes, of course. I know a lot of people who have purchased dehydrators to make fruit leathers, and the sous vide to make stews and basically just eat healthy and keep the ingredient's nutrition intact. I personally like working with the Thermomix, a super-fast food blender and processor, as you can use it to blend baby food and make jellies. I also like the Pacojet, a vertical food processor that needs minimal food preparation to make peels, 100% natural sorbets and stretchy textured ice cream, among other things.

When most non-professional cooks think of molecular gastronomy they probably just think dry ice! Would you agree that there's more to it than just that? Deﬁnitely! A lot of times chefs use dry ice for the sake of it, but the key is knowing how to use it in food and cocktails. I think dry ice is best used with good smelling notes of alcohol. Sometimes chefs use it just to make food seem appealing on the table, but when you smell the dry ice, it has no aroma and sometimes even smells bad. Modern cooking is not about gimmickry, it's more about reinvention, playing with textures and making jellies and powders out of foods that you don't generally think of, for example. The concept is to challenge and tantalise the diner's mind. But nothing can replace the foundation of key skills, which every chef should have. Only then can you use all this equipment to achieve the results you want - you have to know what result you want in the ﬁrst

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When chefs such as yourself go into the kitchen, what exactly do you do? The lab is our kitchen. We spend hours there, designing and creating new dishes or concepts. The whole process is a bunch of ideas where we work with new flavours and ingredients. It usually takes anywhere from six months to five years to create a dish. We do have chefs tasting at all times, but like to take our time when perfecting a dish. And the inspiration? It comes from everywhere! I recently went to Vietnam and came across smoked noodles. The minute I got back home, I went into the lab and tried to create smoked pasta. I find that mistakes are sometimes the best ways to come across a new certain flavour or innovative dish. I once burnt a batch of cucumbers and leeks and really liked the taste. I take ideas from everything I see, I embrace

What's next on the horizon for you? I'll be visiting Dubai in November again to do a few demonstrations and cooking classes. I'll also be available for training sessions at home.

A version of this interview recently appeared in BBC Good Food Middle East. It appears here courtesy of Sudeshna Ghosh and Nicola Monteith.

November 2013 / The Pro Chef Middle East

10/31/13 4:41 PM

LEISURE / travel

The Pro Chef Middle East / November 2013

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Fresh, simple dishes

travel trav tr avel av el / LE LEISURE LEIS ISUR SURE E

Homely touches prepare you for real, home cooking

A good lunch selection

Moghrabieh (left) and Riz a djej

Serving up Knefe

Preparing for lunch at Tawlet (‘The Table’)

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and Sambosek (bottom)

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&RPSHWLQJ EDULVWDV DW WKH )HVWLYDO ZLOO EH MXGJHG RQ WKH IROORZLQJ NH\ HOHPHQWV t Good coffee knowledge and good communication skills - they must be able to describe their choice of coffee in terms of origin, characteristics and processing methods etc. t A top performer will be able to efficiently manage time and workstation, deliver flawless and consistent technique in producing all 16 coffee beverages within the required time all the while engaging, interacting and providing the judges with exceptional customer service. t Attention to detail throughout the whole process t …and, lastly, fresh, high quality coffee!

November 6 – 9, 2013 Meydan IMAX Gallery

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'LG \RX NQRZ" The average pay of baristas and café staff in the UAE ranges between AED 5-11 per hour. By equipping themselves with further training and qualifications, baristas can make their ways up the pay scale and become stronger resources for the businesses they represent.

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Overview

UAEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S COFFEE INDUSTRY Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s causing quite a stir!

Other than the obvious tax free benefits, the UAE is also strategically located to service and supply other markets.

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UAE - THE COFFEE GROWTH DRIVER The Arab world has MORE THAN TRIPLED ITS CONSUMPTION of coffee over the last decade with the UAE emerging as a key growth catalyst registering an 85 per cent increase in consumption in the last three years.

UAE GULPS TWICE AS MUCH COFFEE AS OTHER GCC STATES

IT IS EVIDENT THAT THERE HAS BEEN A SUBSTANTIAL RISE IN THE NUMBER OF CAFES, PREDOMINANTLY OVER THE LAST 3 YEARS TO CATER TO THE DIVERSITY OF COFFEE DRINKERS. For the most part, these cafes are new home-grown brands or independent, neighborhood cafes with no link to major franchisors and this is a very promising prospect for any maturing coffee market.

THE CLASSIC INGREDIENTS CONTRIBUTING TO A HIGHLY CONDUCIVE COFFEE MARKET: The ever-rising rate of coffee

A Strategic Coffee Hub

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consumption over the last 5 years can be attributed to many factors including the new generation of consumers, growth in population or even people acquiring new tastes.

November 6 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 9, 2013 Meydan IMAX Gallery

10/31/13 5:06 PM

A FIRST TIME EXCLUSIVE TO THE MIDDLE EAST

THE MACHINES THAT SPECIALTY COFFEE PROFESSIONALS WORLDWIDE TURN TO FEATURING THE FLAGSHIP â&#x20AC;&#x153;HYBRIDâ&#x20AC;? A FIRST IN THE INDUSTRY. TECHNOLOGICAL ADVANCEMENT THAT MIXES BOTH MANUAL AND VOLUMETRIC MACHINES

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www.coffeeteafest.com

10/31/13 5:06 PM

Show Floor Guide 6th-9th NOVEMBER 2013 MEYDAN IMAX GALLERY The International Coffee & Tea Festival has evolved over the years to include a comprehensive set of attractions and industry-relevant features which are of interest to trade professionals, restaurateurs, hospitality staff, stakeholders connected to coffee and tea businesses, as well as the public at large. UAE’s only National Barista & Latte Art Championships (sanctioned by World Coffee Events) The most ambitious baristas from across the UAE will be putting their skills to the test at this year’s Championships hosted by the Festival. The competition will require each barista to prepare 4 Espressos, 4 Cappuccinos, and 4 of their adaptations to an Espresso-based beverage (signature category). Witness them deliver their best performances to a panel of renowned international guest judges for the chance to win the opportunity of representing the UAE at the World Barista Championship level. Meet some of the world’s greatest coffee and tea connoisseurs and show your support as they gear up to compete for the coveted titles.

UAE BARISTA & LATTE ART CHAMPIONSHIP STAGES

RECEPTION

ORGANISERS OFFICE

BARISTA PREP ROOM

CALIBRATION ROOM

SCAA

TRAINING LAB COFFEE GRADING & PREPARATION

LATTE ART BAR

COUNTER

REGISTRATION

PRESS OFFICE

CAFE JOB FAIR ESPRESSO + BREW BAR RECEPTION

ICCA CHEF’S TABLE

The Trade Floor This year, the show welcomes a few international brands and companies with innovative and quality-driven products and equipment that truly push the boundaries of specialty Coffee and Tea. Browse through a range of stimulating coffee and tea displays HUK ÄUK V\[ ^OH[ PZ UL^ MVY JVMMLL THRLYZ PU [OL PUK\Z[Y`

COFFEE ROASTERS WORKSHOP RETREAT

Globally Certified Coffee Training (accredited by the Specialty Coffee Association of America) This feature is in line with the festival’s commitment to impart internationally renowned professional development and training geared towards enhancing the skill sets of UAE’s baristas and coffee makers. This year, the festival will introduce a special Coffee Roasting workshop into its coffee training curriculum, making it [OL ÄYZ[ [PTL L]LY [OH[ this region is exposed to such a high standard of coffee training with emphasis on coffee roasting.

Espresso + Brew Bar This is the zone for coffee lovers to sample world class coffees in their purest form, prepared with cutting edge brewing methods and coffee machines. This coffee bar will demonstrate a variety of brewing techniques to educate and wow the palate of visitors. Sample some cutting-edge brews and blends here and try out some high-grade coffee products.

*This festival map is intended for illustrative/directional purposes only, to highlight festival zones and event features. For up-to-date exhibiting opportunitites, contact the organisers via www.coffeeteafest.com

Free Parking

The Festival will be held at the Meydan IMAX Gallery, which has a free parking facility and easy access to the premises. Visitors can make their way to the show without any fussy parking issues. With required pre-registration to obtain free entry, and in addition to a dynamic B2B platform, visitors can enjoy a range of coffee and tea varieties at the festival. The event is sure to raise the bar for your appreciation of coffee and tea. www.coffeeteafest.com

41-48 Tea and coffee fest.indd 43

November 6 – 9, 2013 Meydan IMAX Gallery

10/31/13 6:10 PM

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Jebel Ali Free Zone being the second largest tea packing plant in the world. In the Emirates, tea ranks second only to water as the most consumed drink among residents. Responding adequately to demand, there are now over 4,000 coffee and tea houses catering to this aggregate thirst for tea in the country, and cafes continue to emerge as lucrative businesses worth almost AED 300 million a year. If we ponder trends and consumer preferences in tea drinking prevalent in the region, it becomes evident that tea bags are increasingly taking precedence over loose tea. The Ceylon Tea Promotion Unit at the Consulate General of Sri Lanka estimates the tea bags share in the GCC to be approximately 50% of the total tea market, whereas a decade ago this tea bags share was nearing a mere 10-15% of the tea market. Understandably, this is largely due to the convenience factor that tea bags present, augmented further by marketing efforts by multinational companies to promote this product type. However, the less developed countries in

the Middle East consume more tea in loose form due to the price advantage. In fact, it is said that those who want to enjoy a real cup of tea still prefer loose tea, as unlike the case with tea bags, loose tea offers a wider selection for the consumer. The so called single garden tea or specialty teas are available only in loose form. This immense popularity of tea mainly springs from the fact that the majority of ethnicities comprising the UAE population originate from tea drinking nations such as the UK, Ireland, Turkey, Morocco and so forth. Ryan Godinho explains, â&#x20AC;&#x153;As organisers of the only dedicated coffee and tea event catering to the Middle East, we have firsthand witnessed an increased interest from the public in herbal and specialty teas, and it has been very refreshing for us to see how people in this region are embracing new and trendy ways to prepare their teas such as the Tea Ceremony technique practiced in East Asian culturesâ&#x20AC;?.

Tea 5isinJ Tea drinkers know how indispensible our first cup of tea is to our mornings, but when we consider the collective volume of tea consumption in the country, the statistics are the real eye-openers. Today, over 19,000kg of tea are consumed in the UAE every single day and this figure is projected to accelerate multi-fold in the coming years, keeping up with the rise in population and the progressive socioeconomic development of the country. According to tea insights provided directly from the Ceylon Tea Promotion Unit, Consulate General of Sri Lanka, Dubai has become the tea hub in Middle East due to its convenient location and comprehensive facilities provided for trade members. The UAE normally imports approximately 70â&#x20AC;&#x201C;80 million kg of tea for blending, packing & reexport purposes. With a dynamic and highly adaptive tea culture, the UAE is now at the centre of the global tea re-export market and has become the largest re-exporter of tea in the world, with the Unilever facility in

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