The Review - Omid Djalili

THE

REVIEW ‘LIFE. STYLE.’

THE MARQUE

LAGERFELD

ANDREW WESSELS

THE CHANEL SHOWS

Story by Laith Al-Kaisy

Story by Simon Proctor

THE ARTIST

F8 SPIDER

LILLIE BERNIE

GIALLO TRIPLO STRATO

Story by Naomi Lake

Story by Aaron Edgeworth

FINGAL

RESTOMOD

KEELING OVER

RPM RESURRECTION

Story by Peter J Robinson

Story by Ian Digman

Omid Djalili LET THE GOOD TIMES

ROLL

Story by Benjamin Norris

S21

THE REVIEW 2013 1

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From the desk of

THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

LAITH AL-KAISY PETER J ROBINSON JOHN STERLING MAT HAMILTON GREEN

Editor-In-Chief Managing Editor North American Editor Publishing and Technology Director

BOBBY REYES SARAH MORGAN

US Style Editor Global Travel Editor

KIMBERLEY SAWYER

Director, Finance & Operations Business Manager

DAVID MAHONEY SUSAN RICE CLAIRE TINDRED

Advertising and Marketing Coordinator Sales Director

Get social..

Comedy is the backbone of our collective Britishness; the primary gene that makes up our culture. Nothing is more socially crippling than not having a sense of humour, not being in on the gag, and perhaps the worst crime of all, not being able to take a joke. So, I’ve been trying to get a head start with my 2-year-old, Coco, teaching her knock-knock jokes – albeit unsuccessfully.

(Who’s there? Umm, dinosaur!)

But our custodians of humour – our professional comedians – these are the people who’ve helped navigate us through the darkest period of a generation; those who understand how humour defines us, unites us, comforts us, catharises us, and who bring us together through the art of joke-telling.

As Omid Djalili explains this issue, “Catharsis is a very important theme. In comedy it allows us to make sense of what’s happened.

If you can lead people into feeling that they’ve had this shared experience, that we’ve gone through something together, and that we have successfully made some sense of it, that’s a wonderful thing. It’s up to comedians, in this age, to deliver material of a higher level than audiences have had before.” Read Benjamin Norris’ stellar interview inside.

House, where he wines, dines and slumbers.

He also sinks into the heritage and timeless elegance of Fingal Hotel, Edinburgh.

“The bar and restaurant sector appears to be brandishing its cap like a comeback kid,” says Susannah Streeter, senior investment and markets analyst at Hargreaves Lansdown.

Find out what this means for investors.

Our beauty doyenne Naomi Lake takes a deep dive into wellness and nutrition, with a rundown of her top natural supplements.

On the flipside of beauty, we talk to one of the UK’s top cosmetic surgeons, Dr Tunc Tiryaki, about some of his most requested treatments.

Motorheads rejoice, this issue is brimming with automotive analyses, including the Caterham 620S, the Ferrari F8, and the Range Rover Hybrid. Ian Digman asks if restomods are destroying heritage or making icons more usable and relevant in today’s automotive landscape. And David Birtwistle takes to the road on the Distinguished Gentlemen’s Ride.

And finally, with travel opening up again, I take a shot at my wanderlist: the hotels, villas and private islands that will hopefully swallow my air miles over the next year or two.

Until next time, enjoy.

Like comedy, cooking is all about timing – and, as Peter Robinson finds out this issue, timing seems to be impeccable at East Haugh

Laith Al-Kaisy Editor-in-Chief

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the agenda

INTERVIEW OMID DJALILI

P-20

TRAVEL FINGAL

P-28

MOTORING

RANGE ROVER P400E

P-36

FINANCE

SUSANNAH STREETER

P-45

FINANCE

NEURO MARKETING M S

P-50

P

MARINE

AUTOMOTIVE

P-58

P-66

SUPERYACT CUP

FERRARI F8 SPIDER

FASHION

SIMON PROCTER

P-74

AUTOMOTIVE RESTOMOD

P-90

BEAUTY

NUTRITION

INTERVIEW

ANDREW WESSELS

P-100 P-106

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FRAGRANCE

PHOTOGRAPHY ARCHIE BB

INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW

P-156 P-174 P-180 P-142 P-120 P-112 MOTORING CATERHAM

EVENT

THE DGR

SCENTS OF STYLE

CYCLING 4 SOUP

DR JOHN QUINN

BEAUTY

TRAVEL

EAST HAUGH HOUSE

MOTORING DISCOVERY

TRAVEL

WANDERLUST

TECH

P-192 P-199 P-214 P-223 P-186 P-226 THE ARTIST

BRAUN

TECH

HOMETECHONOMICS

THE REVIEW 2021 15

1

Contributors

AARON EDGEWORTH

ASSISTANT MOTORING EDITOR

Gregarious, opinionated, and a destroyer of cocktail menus, Aaron provides automotive content stemming from years of passion and work in the industry. A keen eye for design and a horder of factoids are combined with a love of architecture, good food and the occasional party. Mostly found avoiding public settings.

DAVID BIRTWISTLE FEATURES WRITER

Endeavour Life founder Birtwistle is an inspiring lifestyle YouTuber and fitness coach from London.

A former semiprofessional rugby player with Wasps, Birtwistle has built an inspiring career from his time at the club coaching an international clientele.

David studied strength and conditioning science before going onto secure his first with honours in engineering. You’ll find him on his Street Tripple most days.

NAOMI LAKE BEAUTY EDITOR

Lake is a makeup artist, hair stylist, model and creative director. She comes to the table with over a decade of knowledge in the industry.

When she’s not on set or in a meeting, she’s in a yoga class, checking out a new restaurant or exploring the menu of a cocktail bar, in the pursuit of the perfect Negroni.

SARAH MORGAN

IAN DIGMAN

Sarah’s career spans three decades across travel, hospitality and leisure campaigning. When she’s not in the capital consulting for the travel industry, she’s working on launching a new travel series. With a firm belief in holistic therapy and healthy living (well, to a point), a yoga retreat in some exotic, far-flung place is never far away.

Automotive kingmaker Ian Digman’s illustrious career spans over four decades and includes senior roles at Ford, Volvo, Nissan, INFINITI and, most recently, McLaren.

That’s when he isn’t giving guest lectures on engineering excellence.

Digman will be writing a regular column for The Review on anything with wheels.

Robinson is The Review’s managing editor. Having spent the last decade spanning both visual and print media, he has filed interviews across the political spectrum with the likes of Sir David Frost and Donald Trump.

Robinson founded the magazine’s sister company, Screaming Eagle Productions, in 2015 to deliver film.

IAIN BEAUMONT

PORTIA ANTONIA ALEXIS FINANCIAL WRITER

Iain Beaumont is the founder and managing director of Venues and Ventures. Since ditching the City, Iain has worked on some of the UK’s grandest country estates and leading luxury venues, refining his eye for new opportunities and helping businesses realise their potential.

Portia Antonia Alexis is a Neuroeconomist, has consulted for Mckinsey, Newton Investment Management, Bank Of America. She analyses the solutions of economic issues using neuroscientific and mathematical methods.

She is one of the analysts merging Cognitive Science and Economics.

GLOBAL TRAVEL EDITOR

SUSANNAH STREETER BENJAMIN FINANCE WRITER MITROFAN-NORRIS FEATURES WRITER

Norris is a copywriter and journalist from Bristol, England. He works regularly with some of the world’s leading luxury brands, and splits his time between the UK, Germany and Hungary. Norris also has a penchant for Alsatian wines and dodgy 80s synthpop.

Susannah is a broadcaster and financial commentator who has anchored flagship news shows on BBC TV and radio and hosts major conferences around the world. She is currently the senior investment and markets analyst at Hargreaves Lansdown, the UK’s largest retail investment platform.

PETER J ROBINSON

CONTRIBUTOR

MANAGING EDITOR

FEATURES WRITER

THE REVIEW 2021 17

Bring on the

Good Times Benjamin Mitrofan-Norris meets Omid Djalili Words: Benjamin Mitrofan-Norris

Nothing wakes you up like chatting to Omid Djalili on a Monday morning. Instantly recognisable and immediately comforting, sitting down with Omid feels like catching up with an old friend within seconds of the interview commencing.

COVER: OMID DJALILI

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big-time comedy stalwart, quiz show host, and esteemed writer of some of the most fascinating comedy of the past couple of decades, Omid is also a razor-sharp actor with an IMDB credits list as long as your arm, and a canny knack for popping up in some of the most iconic movies of the past two decades. He also possesses a biting political side, and the ability to slip into anecdotes of the minutiae of Persian language and the Iranian sense of humour, Baha’i history, and a desire for a universal oneness – all with the same jovial-yet-intellectual tone he applies to his stream-of-consciousness

football commentary on Twitter.

“I fulfilled a long-term ambition of performing standup in the Persian language, and overcame my anxieties about how my work would go down in Iran as a Baha’i”

Before I’ve even finished my first coffee, we’re talking about Robert de Niro’s championing of The Infidel – the David Baddiel movie dealing with an identity crisis that puts the very essence of tribalism into question, while also being very, very funny indeed – and what happens when English nationalists discover, as they inevitably do, that their ancestry is perhaps not the paragon of Anglo-Saxon racial purity they seem to wish for.

That this happens within minutes of a discussion originally aimed at promoting Omid’s thrice-delayed

OMID ALONGSIDE RICHARD SCHIFF IN THE 2010 COMEDY, THE INFIDEL

standup tour (the almost-ironically titled The Good Times, a mammoth show which was intended to roll its way across the UK last year) is a fairly accurate reflection of what I imagine happens to most people who sit down to talk with him. Over the next forty minutes, we do our best to stay on-topic, and I promise to streamline the finished piece to make Omid look ‘charming, funny, and intelligent’ – his words, delivered with that iconic laugh.

Overall, however, it has been both brilliant and frustrating. There was this government narrative that we are all expected to sit back, watch television, and think about our lives.

And I did that for a while. It wasn’t long before I realised that we, as comedians, can’t stop working, and social media, podcasts, and zoom gigs kept the joy-givers of the world busy.

There’s no doubt that the pandemic was a great time to reflect on my life and career.

Certain things emerged that would simply have How’s the past 18 months been for you? never happened otherwise. I fulfilled a longterm ambition of performing standup in the Well, right now I’m knackered. I’ve just Persian language, and overcame my anxieties recorded thirty episodes of my quiz show in ten about how my work would go down in Iran days. as a Baha’i – a persecuted minority – but

doing it broadened my horizons and widened my audience massively. I also managed to get involved with an Iranian talk show and connecting with those audiences – thanks to an opening joke which both showcased my great ambitions while making fun of my humble expectations – was hugely rewarding, and such an important experience for me.

It’s been 11 years to the day since the release of The Infidel. What’s it like looking back on that?

When David Baddiel pitched the idea, we hit on a really short, sharp point to the story: a British Muslim discovers he’s actually a Jew. The idea was to try to break down and play with those tribal lines in our society, and

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I genuinely believe that all of the world’s problems can be fixed if we simply espouse and embrace the oneness of mankind.

It sounds a little cheesy, but it’s true – and it’s partly why I felt it was such an important film to make. The way the press dealt with it was an utter disgrace – they hate comedy dealing with religion – but it went on to have this amazing second life in the USA, when it was picked up

by A-list Hollywood activists who believed it was an important film for people to see.

You’ve recently been filming Text For You – how’s the experience been in light of the pandemic?

It was intense. It was smack-bang in the middle

of the first lockdown, and it was difficult to complete the movie. We literally couldn’t move anywhere without a mask on, and every time I touched the wrong water bottle, the whole place would be fumigated!

However, it was all very doable despite the intensity. It’s set to be a real romantic blockbuster. Sam Heughan and Priyanka Chopra-Jones are fantastic in it, and I’m working alongside yet another diva – Celine Dion – who’s brilliant. There was a great professional atmosphere on set, and Priyanka insisted everyone involved enjoyed a highquality vegan diet – and that was wonderful.

Comedians, in particular, have taken a huge hit because of lockdowns. How

“Well, Zoom gigs have been a challenge. It’s

probably best exemplified by the time I finished a Zoom gig for 650 audience members, went to my bathroom and flushed the toilet, telling them “this is the sound of my career.

”

OMID DJALILI AS TEVYE THE MILKMAN IN FIDDLER ON THE ROOF. PHOTOGRAPH: JOHAN PERSSON

easy has it been to adapt to a world where you haven’t been able to perform in front of a traditional live audience?

Well, Zoom gigs have been a challenge. It’s probably best exemplified by the time I finished a Zoom gig for 650 audience members, went to my bathroom and flushed the toilet, telling them “this is the sound of my career”.

This made me realise that there are ways of being funny around Zoom that you can’t do at a traditional gig. You can talk directly to people, bringing an immediacy you won’t get at a comedy club. I’ve enjoyed it, but my god, I can’t wait to get back to this aspect of normality.

How did you find doing socially-

OMID DJALILI IN THE WAY OUT. PHOTOGRAPH: ARTS COUNCIL ENGLAND

distanced gigs – was it a completely different dynamic?

telling, or the ability to adapt during unprecedented times?

Drive-in gigs were terrible – people doing It doesn’t look so good for comedians to say three-point turns while you’re doing a routine is ‘I’m a better comedian now’, does it? exactly as distracting as you would imagine.

Seriously, though, it made me watch more I did a socially-distanced gig at a comedy club comedy, soak up old stuff, and write more where everyone was wearing visors. It looked material. I watched routines I wrote ten years like a welding and soldering convention, and ago with my head in my hands, and it made they weren’t even allowed to heckle so I told me realise that nowadays, comedy has to be so them to steam up the inside of their visors and sharp, and so economical. This has definitely write insults backwards on them with their prompted me to take a look at how I write, and fingers. Naturally, the audience tried to do to really streamline the content to meet those exactly that – even more distracting. demands.

You said the pandemic has made you a better comedian – do you mean joke

Mainly, the pandemic has made me step back and explore what kind of comedian or artist I

want to be. Do I want to get big laughs, or do I want to become more conscious, and produce better material that makes a different impact?

These are the questions that have been flying through my head, and it’s changed the way I’ve looked at new comics on the scene, and at myself, too.

Similarly, do you think audiences will have changed or expect something more from their comics?

Yes, those expectations have absolutely changed. There’s a new awakening to the idea that life is short, and life could be so much more meaningful.

Post-pandemic audiences have, for example,

THE REVIEW 2021 25

no appetite for puns and silliness, unless they’re related to something deeper. It’s inevitable that people will have changed, and audiences today want better content.

Comedy is one of those cathartic processes that society relies on in troubling times – is this something that ever consciously frames your jokes?

Catharsis is a very important theme, studied in universities around the world. It’s about reflecting back our lives, and in comedy it allows us to make sense of what’s happened.

If you can lead people into feeling that they’ve had this shared experience, that we’ve gone through something together, and that we have successfully made some sense of it, that’s a wonderful thing.

I’ve had to keep this in mind when writing – and rewriting – the latest material for my tour. I’ve noticed a ‘new’ type of laughter in

audiences, a hyper-aware laughter – it’s one which leads the audience to look around them to see if other people are reacting in the same way. Audiences have become very alert to this kind of shared experience. As a comedian, hitting a groove where people are actually listening to everything you’re saying, and reacting to it in a positive way, results in a very exciting and creative working space. It’s up to comedians, in this age, to deliver material of a higher level than audiences have had before, and the pandemic actually gives us plenty of opportunities to do this.

Your upcoming Good Times tour had to be rescheduled – how much, if any, of the material was changed or adapted in the meantime?

Every time I think I’m going on tour, I do a couple of comedy clubs, and then the tour gets pushed back again and again. In between these times, the entire landscape seems to shift.

It’s like when I was touring before, in the midst of Brexit and Trump. There were jokes that had a clear sell-by date, but it was impossible to prepare for them or even see them until they had passed.

I had a brilliant joke about Sean Spicer, Trump’s press secretary. Within a week of him leaving, people couldn’t remember who he was. As such, the people who came to the early shows of that tour in 2016, as well as the later ones in 2019, essentially saw a different show.

There’s no doubt that some of the new material for The Good Times Tour has a sell-by date, but all comedy shows and tours should evolve over time – it’s our job to keep that focus and relevance. The world can change, but us joy-givers have to play our role, and you can never hold us back. In essence, there’s a crisis of victory in everything – but we’ll always find a way.

TR

OMID ON STAGE, MOST LIKELY KILLING IT

To book tickets for The Good Times Tour, please visit: omidnoagenda.com

T R AV E L : F I N G A L

the age of

FINGAL Words: Peter J Robinson

Photography: Elliot Caunce

If you’ve ever spent any serious time at sea, you’ll know that life on the water is as rewarding as it is perilous. Having learned to sail when I was in single digits, I still find the open ocean as captivating as I did when I was tacking across the bay as a wee boy. My rather gentile sailing experiences are arguably a far cry from the 73m-long steam tender vessel, christened Fingal, I found myself aboard in early June. Launched in 1963, Fingal was ordered by the Northern Lighthouse Board and the last ship to be built by the Blythswood Shipbuilding Company in Glasgow.

When the Northern Lighthouses were manned Fingal would run supplies to the lighthouse keepers and their families through arguably treacherous waters. Though she was Leithregistered, she spent most of her NLB service working out of Oban for 30 years, with her last six in Stromness, Orkney. When working ships are decommissioned they are often quickly broken apart and their scrap metal sold to the highest bidder. In 2014, Fingal was acquired by the Britannia Trust and went into Falmouth dry dock for an insurance survey. Having

THE REVIEW 2021 29

AARON EDGEWORTH UNLOADING THE FERRARI F8 SPIDER DOCKSIDE AT FINGAL

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dinburgh has many fine and illustrious luxury hotels, but none with the heritage and timeless elegance of Fingal. So, when the conversation about a Scotland fly drive was raised by the assistant motoring editor, Aaron Edgeworth, my deck shoes were already packed.

We arrived at Alexandra Dock at around 7pm on a perfectly pleasant June evening. Had we flown with TailHail, I suspect we might have made it there a little earlier – but to be travelling again was joyous enough. As we

“As the now-sister

ship to the Royal Yacht Britannia, Fingal is not without its own regal origin story.”

snaked our way around the port of Leith, Fingal appeared on the horizon. She cuts an extremely formidable line, now permanently moored and beautifully painted in a deep navy with a bright red waterline. The gangway with its red carpet rolled out for guests is indicative of the meticulous levels of detail that have gone into the $5 million pound development.

As you board the ship at the port side, you’re instantly cosseted into an art-deco world that even Romain de Tirtoff would have given his seal of approval to. Beautifully polished wood and cork panelling and glistening brass give way to a round, lighthouse lantern-inspired glass lift. Complete with the Fingal’s emblem emblazoned in what I can only imagine was

ALL HANDS ON DECK AN EDGE WORTH A VIEW the lift’s marble floor. It would seem befitting.

The walls are adorned with a tasteful array of historic photographs of Fingal in her heyday.

All of Fingal’s 23 cabins are, of course, meticulously laid out. Each, including my cabin, Hyskeir, are named after the iconic Stephenson lighthouses, designed by the civil engineer Robert Stevenson (grandfather of Treasure Island author Robert Louis Stevenson). Each features a top tier level of craftsmanship, keeping with Fingal’s maritime heritage. From the bespoke Araminta Campbell throws and cushions to the inscribed headboards finished by Transcal, upholstery designers for Rolls-Royce. Sea greens, rich

burgundy and heather complement each other whilst the flooring in the room and the en-suite has diamonds representing lighthouse astragals.

Beautiful shimmering tiling gave way to engineered brass taps. It was so tasteful, I could hardly contain myself.

Having travelled for a number of hours, I decided to open the leather-clad minibar, pour a whisky into a heavy-set crystal glass and tour the ship. Even the ornately-curved mirror above the minibar was designed to represent the prisms of a lighthouse optic. With glass in hand, I made my way out onto the deck.

Luxury cabins have access to the outside gangway allowing you to make your way to the

aptly named Lighthouse Bar whilst taking in the ship’s decks. As you might expect, cabins vary according to category. Classics include a kingsize bed and rain shower bathroom. Classic duplexes have a spiral staircase connecting living space with the bedroom, while luxury duplexes are set over 60sqm and include a rather splendid roll-top bath.

Fingal’s crowning glory, however, is the Skerryvore suite. As the now-sister ship to the Royal Yacht Britannia, Fingal is not without its own regal origin story. Her Royal Highness the Princess Royal had stayed in the suite when she’d sailed aboard Fingal with the lighthouse commissioners. It’s the largest of the cabins,

THE REVIEW 2021 31

with a private dining area connected to the cabin with interlinking doors. As with the luxury cabins, the wooden doors open out onto the teak-lined foredeck at the ship’s bow. I imagine it makes quite the spot for a morning coffee.

With Aaron in tow and both somewhat nautically-dressed for supper (read: white chinos and navy) we made our way out onto the deck, bound for the Lighthouse restaurant.

Formed around a sizeable granite bar and with its restored teak deck, the restaurant offers sweeping views over the port. I could easily see myself sinking an Old Fashioned whilst setting sail across the Atlantic. The soft, auberginecoloured leather seats are kept semi-private in booth-style enclosures, trimmed with porthole

inspired dividers atop. The mottled gold ceiling above was also stunning, designed to give the impression of calm waves. Now, fully in my element and seated for supper, the important choice was between the Ruinart Blanc de Blancs and Dom Perignon Vintage 2008. I suspected the Krug 2004 was quite the tipple, but whilst I ruminated, Aaron was already in full swing with the cocktail menu in hand.

“A Lighthouse Bar Martini – perfection”.

Despite expecting Aaron to pontificate a little longer, I culled my decision time by offering my usual approach when faced with a time sensitive order. “La même chose s’il vous plait?” Britannia Gin distilled in Edinburgh by Pickering’s Gin Distillery and Wermod Great British Vermouth, created within the Dalmeny Estate nearby are served to your table in a

bespoke lighthouse-shaped bottle. Chilled to minus-20 and garnished with pickled amalfi lemon, the scene became a little reminiscent of Wolf of Wall Street.

With our facilities still intact, we moved onto the Ruinart Blanc de Blancs paired with divercaught Orkney scallop ceviche, cucumber, crème fraiche and avocado. Having suffered through a sadly typical Easyjet flight from Bristol, as opposed to our planned business class flight out of Heathrow, the crew aboard Fingal were fervently playing my song. Gone were the insipid pumpkin-colour-clad malcontents that come as standard aboard ‘the world’s most disgruntled airline’. No more were the snide remarks about my choice of face mask or Krypton Factor luggage challenges at the

gate. All that remained was a well rehearsed orchestra of a dinner service by Lauren, Carris and Matt.

smile, pursed lips and decidedly pronounced nod would have said it all, had it not been for his immediate toast to the good ship Fingal.

By the time my second glass had sailed and my agnolotti arrived, all that endured in my memory was Fingal. A testimony to old world glamour. A hark back to a time when travel was timeless, when one dressed for dinner and when you could smoke your cigar unabated.

Soapbox to one side, the Elrick Log goat’s cheese agnolotti with Wye Valley asparagus, shimeji and pea velouté was a triumph. As soft textured and satisfying as anything I have ever been lucky enough to taste. Aaron, on the other hand, had only just begun what was to become a four-day campaign to eat every piece of lamb available on mainland Scotland. His knowing

Despite clearly having eaten well, I broke with my usual tradition of starters or pudding and dove headfirst into Perthshire strawberries with coconut dacquoise and vanilla cream. It was certainly a playful dish, though by this point we were both very much in need of a digestif.

Anyone for a 16-year-old Lagavulin? All that remained of the night was to disembark Fingal to see her resplendently lit up. If it’s possible, she was even more beguiling by moonlight.

The quiet corner of Alexandra dock is perfect if you’re looking to get away from all the noise.

That said, the shore is just a few minutes away, lined with fine bars and restaurants. These

THE HYSKEIR CABIN

include Martin Wishart and Tom Kitchin’s Michelin star restaurants. If you’re looking for something a little more relaxed, Domenico’s on Sandport Street has incredible arancini and is, incidentally, an ideal spot to park a Giallo Modena Ferrari F8 Spider. Suffice to say, the local area is brimming with options.

Arm in arm, despite Scotland’s licensing laws, we made our way back to Fingal, where the diligent staff were awaiting our arrival. With only one night aboard, there is certainly more to see than 24 hours allow. So, I suggest you book in for a three to five night sojourn. On the lower deck, you’ll find the engine room. A redcarpeted, glass floor affair that allows you to see the fully preserved heart of this amazing ship.

A twin oil 2SA 6cyl 2400bhp, 2-screw, each 4

THE SPECTACULAR DOUBLE HEIGHT BALLROOM

THE LIGHTHOUSE RESTAURANT

THE REVIEW 2021 33

blades, 7-foot 4 in diametre, by x 6-foot 4 in pitch, Polar Marine type M46M. What a truly beautiful thing it was. Had time allowed and health and safety been obliging, I would have happily lowered myself into the mechanics of it all for a proper, prolonged trouser rub.

I imagine quite a few of you at this point are considering the event prospects of such a fine ship for exclusive hire. I certainly had. Perhaps a nautical film release or alike, certainly a wedding or award ceremony. The ship’s ballroom is located in the former hold and is

graced by not one but two sweeping staircases.

Within the ornate railings on the stairs are inset bullseye lenses furthering the continued nod to the ship’s lighthouse heritage. The showstopper is arguably the hammered stainless steel ceiling and inset skylight which gives off a remarkable copper, if not rose gold hued effect. I pictured myself sat at the bar at the top of the staircase in black tie watching guests dance the night away as the band played Tuxedo Junction.

Fingal is a breath-taking example of heritage restoration by a uniquely skilled team who have

clearly spent as much time as budget to ensure that she stands in dock for the long term.

My grandfather would regale me on many a Sunday afternoon with stories of his time in the Merchant Navy aboard the Empire Trotwood.

She was a 62m Empire Class 797 GRT coastal tanker. I can only imagine what she might have looked like today, restored and moored for future generations to fully appreciate the artisan skills that went into shipbuilding of a bygone era. It’s not often I travel to the same hotel twice, but Fingal is likely to be the exception.

Bon voyage.

TR

ON THE EDGE, OF GLORY, GLASS IN HAND

For further details visit: W: fingal.co.uk or call T: +44 (0)131 357 5000

BACK IN WESTMINSTER

BLACK Words: Aaron Edgeworth Photography: Roger Chan

AUTOMOTIVE JUGGERNAUT AARON EDGEWORTH POST TEA WITH HER MAJESTY

AU T O M O T I V E : R A N G E R O V E R P 4 0 0 E .

THE REVIEW 2021 37

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not the Velar, not even the Discovery. The full fat, bonnet at shoulder height, wafting armchair that is the Range Rover. I have in my possession, courtesy of the lovely people at Jaguar Land Rover, a facelifted Range Rover P400e Westminster Black. This the fourth, or perhaps fifth, iteration of the Range Rover. That number really depends on if you are splitting the originals from the later air suspension models of the early nineties. It is curious with the brand, that the older the version that you are driving, the richer you probably are. Drive an original, unmolested Discovery? Billionaire The grandfather of the segment is the Land you probably are. So, I should slip by relatively Rover Range Rover. Not the Range Rover Sport, unnoticed in the bright Silicon Silver painted hh, the SUV: the sports utility vehicle. The Chelsea tractor.

The car for all seasons. Or the car that will spend 90% of its time in a city environment, will never call upon one of their quintillion traction and chassis settings, and will probably come adorned with numerous strewn Cheerios and Hula Hoops remnants, and not a few misplaced Peppa Pig figurines. They are, without jest, a necessity in today’s marketplace – if less so on the roads.

example supplied.

First impressions are difficult. I know what a Range Rover looks like. It looks like a Range Rover. Not like anything else, like a Range Rover. It’s a big car, by anyone’s standards.

The default stance is imposing but it is a well resolved design, nonetheless. We have become so accustomed to seeing their form on our roads that we rarely take a second glance or a moment to take them in. So, let’s spend a moment doing just that. The Westminster Black specification brings gloss black trim to the major exterior areas. Window surrounds, the side vents and front valance, grill, intakes

and rear diffuser all supplied in the same gloss, bringing a slight menace to the car. The 21-inch wheels are similarly coloured, which could serve to only highlight any parking deficiencies one may possess.

slopes and curves provided by the front end and the rear slope through the tailgate both counter the larger straight horizontal lines seen throughout the rest of the car. Did I say that it was big? It’s tall with it, and with that provides the visibility that is the first thing that one notices when climbing aboard. Scratch that; I’ve just climbed aboard. That’s what you notice first. I don’t moonlight for an NBA franchise, although admittedly I also wasn’t an extra in Willow – but I did have to give a little hop up into the cabin. If anything, it sort of adds to the presence that the car brings.

As I said, it’s a big old thing. Proportionally though, it looks spot on. It has a commanding presence, the likes of which we rarely see. Think early-nineties motorcade whistling through Kuwait (armed Landcruisers optional). The updated light clusters and vents of the front of the car have somewhat softened the car’s lines and removed a degree of the boxiness, perhaps necessary in the design language. The One option that the Westminster specification

brings is the panoramic sunroof – a must have.

It adds real airiness to the cabin and a slight tonic to the insistence of applying privacy glass to every vehicle that runs off every production line. It’s like a skill that’s just been discovered.

Or the general population are far more risqué in their backseat behaviours than our stiff upper lip would have you imagine. But yes, big, spacious and eminently comfortable.

Let’s, therefore, break the Range Rover P400e Westminster Black down. It’s the range topping model for Land Rover, and has been recently facelifted, including lights, grill, vents and internally the infotainment and climate

THE REVIEW 2021 39

functions have been renewed. It is a P for petrol.

400 for HP (actually 404, but whatever, I guess.

I suppose 404 is less snappy). E for electric, and Westminster Black for trim level and seemingly, colour. I doubt it was pre-emptive knowing it was I who would be testing it. That’s a fair amount of information given in a name, but it represents a huge sea change for what a traditional view of the Range Rover would be. Drivetrain wise the car is powered by a two litre four-cylinder engine that has been seen previously in the Sport more notably. Mated to that is a 13.1kWh lithium-ion battery that provides approximately 25% of that 404HP. The battery is housed within the transmission, that being the now seemingly universal 8 speed ZF box. And whilst this may be less than traditional, it still retains all wheel drive, and a twin speed transfer box; controlling low gear speeds and allowing for a raft of electronic suspension settings that would see it comfortably in some of the harshest conditions.

Though it retains all of the attributes of a Range Rover, what would be the best use of this particular model is that I have an office 21 miles away with a charger to match the one I have at home. Overnight, the car is charged, and I waft serenely to the office utilising only the electric power and the goodwill of a thousand pixies. Whilst presiding over my minions, the car charges outside, ready for me to repeat my wafted joy to the comfort of home. Weekends could be either filled with slightly more involving and smaller vehicles, or the accumulated masses could hop on board the Range Rover and a jolly good time could be had by all. However, that’s not my life and, as such, I may be doing the car a disservice by not being that guy.

So that leaves me with two choices – or three, I guess, if one counts a half-way house between the two. First, I could muddle together charging facilities. I could traffic cone the space outside my property, and plot routes and locations to enable peak electric consumption. I could also do none of that, drive it like any other car and see how it performs. Or option three, charge when able and accessible, and utilise that in the most efficient way possible and to that end, get a good mixed view of electric performance, real world performance, and also, ease of infrastructure. Though the last may not technically lie in the hands of those good people at Jaguar Land Rover. I go for option three and charge the car on three occasions. Overnight, at home, twice, and once on a journey at a motorway service station, not through need, but through journalistic integrity (he says tongue in cheek. Or should that be ‘foot in mouth’?)

Where were we? Right. Car charged, time to set off. I opt to not use solely electric for my first outing, but prefer to use the hybrid system to use the electric system to bridge the torque

gap from the four-cylinder, and maintain the most efficient, ‘read brisk’, progress possible.

I wouldn’t say it’s a car that can exactly be hustled. But progress is surprisingly fleet of foot. For a car that could double as a London pied a terre, it is a surprisingly nimble thing.

Tracking lines is relatively easy once one becomes accustomed to the slightly removed feel of inputs. It’s not exactly point and shoot, but nor is it seasick inducingly soft. What is curious is that steering feel, chassis feel, the brake pedal, all feel like you’re not really doing anything. At first it was quite disconcerting.

Everything feels numb. However, ten minutes in, one realises all inputs are being attended to, all pedal depressions are calculated.

How else did you make that gap? Or how else did you make that three point turn on a tight road? Or how else have you negotiated town, country, dale and glen without so much as a second glance or a bead of perspiration?

As the generations have passed, their ubiquity on our roads has increased. Their ubiquity on all roads, in fact, has increased. There are few more international cars. One reason, aside from status, is that they’re genuinely an easy proposition to live with. I’m not simply talking switchgear and infotainment, which, with the new dual touchscreen, is a breeze. But inputs into the car, and how manageable it is on the road is the real beauty of the package.

The drivetrain isn’t a barnstormer, but as mentioned earlier, that’s a) not the point, and b) there are plenty of other drivetrains available should that be your schtick.

What it does do is get you from start to destination with minimal fuss. Even with the battery near depleted, progress is nowhere near as strangled as I expected it to be. It’s not fast, and you’re not going to be surprising anyone from the lights. But the more time spent driving one, you quickly realise that is categorically not the point. Buy a Range Rover Sport SVR if you’re that guy. That the Sport exists, as with the Velar and Evoque, signifies what the Range Rover has become. It’s a Range Topper: a car where you can pick more sensible options from the range, but only this one will do.

What I discovered about the Range Rover that I had not perhaps previously considered is that it’s in a class of its own. There isn’t anything comparable. There are imitators, but not comparable. What I mean is: manufacturers have run to the SUV shape for the best part of two decades. Customers want a higher vantage point, a higher-level of safety. What we therefore have received is a list of large jackedup cars, designed to drive like large nonjacked-up cars. And therein lies the rub. ‘Like

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cars’. That’s no bad thing, but what the Range Rover is – unmistakably, unashamedly – is a Range Rover. It doesn’t necessarily drive like a car, because it isn’t one. It’s a Range Rover. I’m not decrying the current contenders. I have driven many of the current crop of SUVs and super SUVs and some are magnificent pieces of engineering. But they wouldn’t even exist were it not for the Range Rover, and that for me, makes it a class of one.

Dynamically, the magic comes in what it is able to do, but is perhaps now less used a function, in its off-road prowess. Nothing will get you places that a Range Rover will. Nothing will cross beaten tundra with such careless abandon whilst simultaneously massaging your posterior and showing passengers reruns of Friends. Option the rear tailgate event seating and you’ll get a bloody comfortable view when you get there. What was relatively utilitarian in the past is now firmly embedded in luxury again.

Another benefit from diversifying the model lineup is that Land Rover can be unapologetic in their framing of the Range Rover. On the road, it’s as comfortable as any other luxury car, SUV or not. One finds themselves following on from positioning the seat into adopting an ‘armchair’ state of mind for everything, not simply the seat. The seats themselves, the

interior as a whole has been engineered to be effortless across the entire breadth of the spectrum. Dogs, shopping, kids, wardrobes, green lanes, motorways, ram raiding the local Boots on a comedown... It does it all. That I could cut such a distinguished jib rolling through wonderful London in the golden hour says much of what the Range Rover exemplifies. Someone once said ‘a lady in the street and a freak in the bed’. This is more ‘refined gentleman on the street, refined gentleman in Cap d’Antibes, Zermatt or the Hamptons’. Hell, you’d look like a refined gentleman in Scunthorpe in one of these.

Tune in next quarter for more tenuous comparisons.

Electric power can be safeguarded and used at later points in your journey, perhaps should you be driving into a low emission zone and you want to put your smugness on hold until later? Or it can be used from start, should you want the only sound on your morning departure being gravel noise and not engine note. The idea is that through regenerative braking, the 13.1kwh battery will retain enough charge for one to maintain the whole 400bhp available through the mixed drivetrain. 113 of the horses coming through the electric system and the 85kW motor. It isn’t a system as intrusive as some, but then again, it doesn’t supply a huge amount in

regenerative gains. Personally, I rather like the compromise. I’ve never much been a fan of being thrown forward as soon as I let off my accelerator. It tends to make me spill my drink. Charging times range from between two and seven hours. Both are happily within a night’s sleep, so really, it’s of little difference, given that with the petrol engine side by side, range anxiety isn’t a thing.

So, overall, where does that leave this particular Range Rover in the pantheon of modern-day SUVs? Well, pretty much where Land Rover says it does. The reason being, as I’ve said, the Range Rover is its own segment, and this model provides yet another option for buyers to find the appropriate Range Rover for themselves. Not the appropriate SUV, the appropriate Range Rover. Because let’s be honest, there are times when only the best will do.

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Specifications PRICE AS TESTED: £94,235 ENGINE: 2.0 litre petrol + 85kW electric motor 0-60: 6.0 seconds LENGTH/WIDTH/HEIGHT: 5,000mm, 2,220mm, 1869 mm WEIGHT: 2577kg CAPACITY: More than a moped

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F I NA N C E : S U S A N NA H S T R E E T E R

Shaken and Stirred Celebrations are still on ice for the hospitality sector, even as Freedom Day looms. Susannah Streeter, senior investment and markets analyst at Hargreaves Lansdown, looks at what this means for investors.

Words: Susannah Streeter

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he bar and restaurant sector appears to be brandishing its cap like a comeback kid. Outside terraces are heaving, the Euros football championship has pulled in the punters and revellers are making the most of their new found social freedoms. Booking in advance for a favourite table often seems like an obstacle course, with a supreme effort needed to target early reservations to get ahead of rival customers. As far as the hospitality corner is concerned, it seems the roaring twenties may have well and truly begun and memories of the pandemic lockdowns are receding fast. But scratch the surface and the champagne is still very much on ice for the bar and restaurant sector.

Even though many businesses could start serving customers outside from 12 April, in May many were still unsure what the future will hold despite the rapid vaccine roll-outs.

According to ONS data, almost a fifth of bar and pub businesses said they had low confidence that they would still be operating by the beginning of August, while less than a

quarter said they were highly optimistic about by late spring, a third still said profits had their prospects for survival. This compared to halved, despite the phased reopening. just under half of all other businesses who say confidence is high.

Many have had to spend big chunks of revenue they have earned on putting in place It’s not surprising that so many owners outdoor seating arrangements to capture have a glass half empty perspective on their outdoor trade and endure the headache of liaising with local authorities for access to roads and pavements. Although so called streateries in towns and city centres have pulled in the custom, and helped create a party atmosphere as the country eases from lockdown, many bar and restaurant owners fear councils could call time on the revelry.

Many are now trying to turn temporary approvals into permanent solutions, but it’s not an easy task with councils varying in their degrees of support due to strict highway and planning laws.

“The share price of a string of bar and pub chains is mirroring the muted cheer among publicans as the sector reopens.”

Landlords and restaurant owners are trying to cope with this extra administrative burden on top of grappling with the complexity of payroll. Towards the end of the third lockdown, in early April, the number of staff prospects. In December, as the third wave on furlough within the accommodation and swept over the country and time was called on food services sector, which includes bars and the industry, all pubs and bars surveyed said restaurants, peaked at 1.65 million. Recovery profits have fallen by more than 50%. Even has been slow, as even by May just over half of the pubs and bars surveyed had more than

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For further details, contact Hargreaves Lansdown W: www.hl.co.uk T: (0) 117 988 9880

half of staff off on furlough, as they adjusted to changing demand, compared to just over 8% for all other businesses.

to 3 April, with lockdowns clearly hitting very hard. But it was counting on staycations and the euros to draw in the seated crowds and boost its fortunes. Those hopes will be mirrored at Fuller Smith and Turner, whose shares are also still down 7% compared to February 2020.

place before finalRecruitment yards to Freedom day, another crisisthe looms. is proving another crisisfor looms.

Recruitment is proving very difficult management to deal with, very difficult management deal with, partly due to for a large exodus ofto European partly due to athe large European workers from UK.exodus Otherof workers quit the There may be queues now forming outside workers from thecareers UK. Other workers quit the industry for new during lockdown, popular venues, but despite a bounce back industry new careers during lockdown, with littlefor appetite to return to unsociable in customers, job uncertainty still remains with little appetite are to return to unsociable hours.

Employees being poached by rival relatively high in pubs and bars. 59% of hours. with Employees are being poached bythat rival joints, one restaurateur telling me businesses in the sector said they were not Investors in bar and pub group Mitchell and joints, with onethe restaurateur tellingtables me that owners are on prowl, booking going to make staff redundant by August, Butlers and The Restaurant Group, which ownersto are on the booking tables simply sweet talkprowl, her staff into leaving compared to 81% in all other businesses. owns Brunning and Price pubs, Wagamama simply sweet her staff intorestaurants leaving as they to serve thetalk starters.

Some and Frankie and Benny’s appear to have as they starters. restaurants are nowserve axingthe lunch timeSome service mindful The share price of a string of bar and more of a glass half full attitude with their arethe now axing lunch service mindful of pressure whichtime has already piled on pub chains is mirroring the muted cheer respective shares prices already having of theexisting pressure which has and already piled their workforces, fearful ofon yet among publicans as the sector reopens. staged a much stronger recovery compared their existing workforces, and fearful of yet another exodus from the industry.

JD Wetherspoon still needs a good dose of to pre-pandemic levels. The Restaurant another exodus from the industry. tonic as it is languishing around 17% below Group’s recovery is partly down to the strong With many overseas holidays still off the cards pre-pandemic levels, as social distancing take up of delivery slots for its Wagamama With many still offtothe cards for now, it’soverseas going toholidays be a scramble meet rules continue to disrupt its business model chain. Curbside pickups and deliveries have for now,domestic it’s goingdemand, to be a scramble soaring so wagesto ormeet staff of pulling in high volumes of punters, while certainly helped sustain many companies soaring domestic so could wages eat or staff perks are likely todemand, rise, which into keeping prices low. through the crisis of lockdowns. But courier perks are likely to rise, which could eat into the margins of recovering companies. firms like Deliveroo and Just Eat put a hefty the margins of recovering companies.

Revolution bars is still down a whopping 62% charge for restaurants and bars on each order Freedom Day may allow customers to pack compared to February 2020, even though it placed, which eats into margins, so takeaway Freedom allow customers to take packup back into Day theirmay locals once more and has forecast a strong recovery this summer. It service is far from a cash cow for many back intoseats their once and take up coveted atlocals the bar, butmore there’s still a long has announced plans to raise money through establishments. coveted at the butcan there’s still a long way to goseats before thebar, sector celebrate with a rights issue to try and reduce its hefty debt to gotobefore sector can celebrate with away cheers good the health. pile. Pub chain Marston’s is also 10% lower Having jumped through the hoops to reopen, a cheers to good health. compared to pre-pandemic levels, after falling with social distancing restrictions still in to a £105 million pre-tax loss in the 26 weeks place before the final yards to Freedom day, TR TR

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How Neuromarketing Will Revolutionise Luxury Brands A Perspective Words: Portia Antonia Alexis

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cience is the key to unlocking many truths in marketing. Fashion is a billion dollar industry that caters to all sorts of demographics.

People use retail as an outlet to satisfy needs within them for various reasons: leisure, sociability, entrepreneurship, and even stress relief. Yes, ‘retail therapy’ is real, and could be attributed to neuromarketing. The up-and-coming young shoppers, the ones called the HENRYs (high earners not rich yet), are the new wave of consumers. They are a market who knows what they want and expect a certain level of awareness from retailers when it comes to business and sustainability. Due to this, luxury retailers are now adopting new ways of branding. Neuromarketing is the best way for high-end brands to understand what drives their customers, not to only shop, but become loyal buyers for life. There has to be an evolution of fashion. More technological advances are being discovered every day. Part

of that advancement is neuroscience. Luxury fashion brands have to look beyond the obvious and start reassessing their business structure

“No longer is shopping simply just selling; it’s about cultivating relationships.

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to accommodate the new savvy consumer. No longer is shopping simply just selling; it’s about cultivating relationships. There is a subconscious trust that needs to be established. Diving deeper into consumers’ minds – and understanding why they love to shop – is key to brand longevity.

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Neuromarketing is the Key Simply put, neuromarketing is the most advanced way to sell goods. Science has proven that emotions play a key role in decision making: the association with an experience or physical feeling. Neuroscience is more accurate for researching too. For example, when compared to focus groups and surveys, there’s less influence from outside distractions and greater insight of internal workings. Researchers have found that, if businesses brand themselves well enough, the very mention of their brands name could initialise a brain positive response.

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The fashion industry was among the last to use neuroscience, which is shocking due to the various reasons people shop. There’s a rhyme and reason to fashion – and neuroscience proves that.

Luxury brands don’t play with consumers’ emotions; they cater to them. There are certain methods that were naturally impressed on loyal buyers from the start. Well-known brands such as Gucci, Prada, Hermés, and countless others have created mission statements that captured their visions: quality, exclusivity, and lasting style. It’s no wonder why the HENRYs love luxury. These are the consumers who will

impact the luxury market of the future. This demographic is definitely triggered by emotional issues impacting the environment and humanity.

The state of the world is what drives them to invest in luxury. This is an easy way to utilise neuromarketing to garner brand loyalty – by showing evolution and inspiring positive change in the world. Relating to them in a genuine way is sure to encourage the new luxury consumer to shop and continue to buy the most. HENRYs want to feel confident in style through brand awareness. Luxury brands that have been around for years are now finding that revamping their mission statements and values are going to be a must in order to survive the new norm of

fashion.

Who are the HENRYs? Generally, they are a demographic of young up-and-comers approaching their late 30s and 40s; consumers that have matured into career focused individuals, who earn upwards in the $85,000.00 to $100,000.00 range. The millennials are fast approaching their turn to become a HENRY. There are already many shoppers who classify as a HENRY and are very affluent. They will continue their high-earning positions, which means they want goods and amenities that fulfill their comfortable lifestyle. It is clear how luxury brands can capitalise on this.

These consumers invest heavily in technology.

They use it everyday: cooking, travel, communication, and of course shopping.

Research is something they do on a regular basis. To them, clothing isn’t just fashion, but an extension of their beliefs and personal brand.

The HENRYs market is the most intelligent consumer market to date. They understand the world around them; they are creating it.

And they are now creating a new world, which centers around all inclusive, eco-friendly, and humane life focuses. HENRYs inspire change; they challenge the classic and new fashion industry veterans to produce goods that they can resonate with. Neuroscience can monitor their moves: what makes them tick, shopping habits, and more.

Luxury is something they fully embrace, but

only if they are aligned with a certain belief system. HENRYs have the power to humble brands and impact fashion in a way which benefits all that are associated with the industry.

It’s a nice domino effect: the positivity impacts the present and future of fashion. They are forward thinkers; everything they do, fashion-

“Luxury brands need to understand how important it is to embrace change.

It’s all around us: global pandemics, social unrest, BLM. Evolution is inevitable, and therefore, so is change.” wise, sends a message of freedom in every way imaginable. This growing wave of free thinking, love-embracing, energetic, and courageous consumers will want existing brands to inspire their support. They regale the classic luxury brands and aim to transform their style into the now. What exactly do luxury brands need to know in order to satisfy the needs of this highly

anticipated and growing consumer market?

What luxury brands need to know...

Luxury brands need to understand how important it is to embrace change. It’s all around us: global pandemics, social unrest, BLM. Evolution is inevitable, and therefore, so is change. Brands must start looking closely at what triggers their customers neurologically. If a luxury brand aims to encourage loyalty, they will do so accordingly. For example, Hermés rejects mass production and mechanisation.

Luxury brands that focus on producing clothes that are custom, high quality, personalised, and of limited quality are sure to be embraced by the HENRY consumer. There is one exception though – brands will still have to adhere or convert to the HENRYs lifestyle and beliefs.

Luxury brands must become more ethical and sustainable.. This group’s decision making is heavily influenced by their ideals. They are ethical, environmentally conscious, pro animal welfare, and support humane labor practices. Neurologically, these trigger HENRYs emotionally. Emotions rule consumer behavior and play a major role in purchasing decisions, even though we imply to be rational thinkers.

But when open to many products all around us, the decision depends on the impact the brand has on society and the respect an individual gives to that particular brand.

Luxury brand COACH is well aware of this theory. They released their COACH X Disney

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Princess collection, which features all the classic fairy tale princesses of the past, up to now. They created accessories that trigger a delightful nostalgic feel in their customers. What woman didn’t enjoy going to see a Disney movie as a child? We even have our favorite princesses.

That’s a genius way to sell products that are high-end to both their existing and future clientele: the HENRYs.

The evolution of fashion The luxury goods market is truly unique.

Millennials and the existing HENRYs want to support Chanel, Gucci, Hermés and other brands like them. It’s truly remarkable. It shows that although they are young, they too appreciate the effort and history behind classic luxury. The only aspect of concern is staying true to the brand’s mission. Classic luxury brands may not have been so vested in animal welfare. Many still use animal skins and furs to produce their goods. If neuroscience is to help a brand thrive, then sacrifices must be made – but not at the expense of others. Pain and suffering of any person or living creature does not sit well with millennials and HENRYs. That could trigger a negative response, and show lack of interest on the brand’s part; understanding what the customer views as important. The future savvy consumer may be turned off by their feelings not being acknowledged.

Disregarding consumer opinions will certainly

IGNASI MONREAL FOR GUCCI

doom a brand. Evolution in fashion is necessary.

Brands like Burberry and Tiffany are great examples of luxury brand evolution. Burberry is expanding their practice of recycling unsold products, and Tiffany will be sourcing metals and diamonds from ethically responsible mining companies. Installing sustainability as part of an evolved action plan for a brand may be challenging. Hermés, for example, is known for their handmade bags made with fine crocodile leather. Changing that aspect of a brand, like the use of animal products, will jeopardise their legacy. How Hermés can evolve is by pivoting their focus: offer goods that are sustainable alternatives. That way, people who love the brand can still enjoy their goods. Meanwhile the new consumers have options that resonate with their ideals and represent them. Feeling or belonging to a certain class is desired by everyone. Pivoting will make them inclusive.

Hermés uses that concept in their marketing.

And it reinforces brand loyalty using three major pillars: creating a sense of belonging, making it a routine, and building trust.

state of great comfort and lifestyle. Fashion is the easiest way to accomplish this. The physical representation of luxury is no way as impactful as the mentality. Neuroscience is the next big key to revolutionising fashion. Luxury brands are now able to influence shoppers subliminally by tapping into emotions and subconscious desires. Some may think neuroscience is controversial, but really it’s simply moving with the times. E-commerce is becoming more fast-paced and digital. When shopping online, people tend to shop impulsively, which is driven by emotion. Neuromarketing is, in a way, the science of emotion. Luxury brands need to be aware of the new advents in marketing, and the trends that will sustain them for the future.

All shoppers can benefit from wearing an exclusive item associated with living abundantly.

High-end brands put shoppers in a mode of sophistication. Luxury fashion is mature and elegant. Although their markets are small and intimate, they’re impactful. If a brand strives to expand their clientele, then neuromarketing will be a key factor. Most fashion brands are When a brand can link their goods to a specific already using it, and have even developed experience, emotion or ideal, then they can turn in-house neuroscience labs dedicated to better customers into loyal shoppers. Appealing to the understanding consumer behavior. It will also help luxury brands assess what else they could new and most prominent shoppers will secure a future for luxury brands in general. HENRYs create to draw positive attention to their brand shape the world, and so luxury must find where at every angle. Only time will tell the extent of neuroscience and how far it will go. For now, they fit in. though, it will continue to serve as a small window into the psyche of retail shoppers.

The overall sensibility of luxury is to be in a TR

The Superyacht Cup A final day of sublime sailing conditions this summer brought the Superyacht Cup Palma’s twenty-fifth anniversary regatta to a close.

The talk of the event? A first-time entrant stealing the headlines.

Pictures: Sailing Energy Words: Phil Riley

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M A R I N E : T H E S U P E RYAC H T C U P - PA L M A

hankfully the twenty-fifth anniversary gathering had successfully adapted itself to the local pandemic requirements, with permitted shoreside activities centred around the iconic Real Club Náutico De Palma in the heart of Mallorca’s capital. The heartbeat of the event remained unaffected, with a striking fleet of nine superyachts lined up for the three days of racing in the unrivalled sailing conditions out on the Bay of Palma.

“It has been a long road to get to where we are, but we have got there and are delighted to welcome what is a wonderful array of superyachts to our twenty-fifth anniversary regatta,” said SYC Event Director Kate Branagh.

Meanwhile, SYC is continuing to celebrate a longstanding relationship with Destination Partner, New Zealand, with further insights into

what this extraordinary country has to offer.

They have been appointed as the official tour and travel partner to PRADA Series 2020/21 and America’s Cup 2021. Orams Marine Village is home to a 310-vessel dry stack, international superyacht slipway, vessel repair yard, marine services centre and conference lounge. The 32,000 square metre site is set in the heart of Auckland’s marine precinct and is now lifting with its 820-tonne travel lift, adding to the already extensive capabilities of this leading superyacht yard in the South Pacific.

Whilst a fantastic time was clearly had by all teams on the course, to the victor must go the spoils. The two-class winners were Nilaya and Ravenger, with the latter taking the overall 2021 Superyacht Cup title at the Real Club Náutico de Palma prizegiving.

Making her SYC debut, the 43m Ravenger took a clean sweep of victories in Class B despite no racing pedigree and the crew having very limited training time together.

“The boat, right off the bat, had great potential.

But it had never raced before, and I don’t think it had ever flown a spinnaker before,” said navigator Shaun Pammenter of the German Frers-designed, Royal Huisman-built sloop.

“So it had the potential but we really didn’t know what to expect going into the regatta. I think the key to it was we had some really good sailors in key positions, most notably Justin Slattery on the bow, Simon Daubney as crew boss, and Stevie Branagh as tactician.”

“Things happened at the right time, we didn’t rush things, we didn’t have any foul ups, so we got round the racecourse clean, and then on top of that the owner is just a really good driver, just quick in general – life is a lot easier when the owner is so accomplished. We are all very, very happy. I certainly hope we will be back next year. The owner has had a great time, so I am pretty sure he will want to do some more racing.”

Ravenger took the top place on the class podium alongside Ganesha and Baiurdo VI, with Scorpione of London and Aquarius completing the class.

Meanwhile, the long and sleek Nilaya also took three wins on her way to the top of Class A, only missing out on the overall prize as she was racing in a slightly smaller class.

“Everyone is happy with the class win of course, that’s always what you aim for,” said Nilaya crew member Bouwe Bekking. “The competition has been really good and everyone sailed well. Missy is extremely fast upwind, a real weapon, and Shamanna also – we had some excellent racing.

This year has been very different but I have

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liked it very much, because it’s all about the sailing. Of course, the social part is always good, but here we’ve had the focus purely on the racing, which is the most important thing.”

Emphasising the closeness of the racing, Missy and Shamanna finished SYC tied on points, the former taking second place on the countback system, while the Swan 80 Umiko, the smallest yacht at Superyacht Cup Palma, had her best result of the regatta to claim a podium place in the last race.

The final day was also memorable for Shamanna when the 35m Frers designed Nautor Swan won the special ‘Spirit of the Event’ award from North Sails at the prizegiving in memory of North Sails founder Lowell North. Baiurdo VI was also a winner, having produced the best race

“It’s definitely special having a first-timer taking the big prize” start at the event.

Seeing the final yachts over the finish line at the end of the landmark anniversary event, SYC Event Director Kate Branagh said: “It’s definitely special having a first-timer taking the big prize, great to have a new boat winning, so we are very pleased. All the feedback I have had from the boats has been very positive, so it certainly sounds that everyone has appreciated being able to go racing again and everyone is very understanding of the social limitations and the reasons why we can’t be quite the same as usual.

The boats themselves have had a sociable time within their group, so instead of being a party for two or three hundred it’s been a party with 25 of your best mates on board, so they’ve had a lot of fun on an individual basis but just very different to how it normally is. We are hopeful of course that next year we will be able to return to the more usual combination of great racing and a vibrant social scene ashore – and we look forward to welcoming back old friends, and having the chance to make new ones.”

Well, I would be remiss if I didn’t say I was looking forward to finally attending in the flesh and watching up close.

M A R I N E : T H E S U P E RYAC H T C U P - PA L M A

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F8 Spider Words: Aaron Edgeworth @aaron.luke.edgeworth

Photography: Elliot Caunce @elliotcaunce

AU T O M O T I V E : F 8 S P I D E R

PUSH PLAY TO WATCH THE FILM

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I

f I could do a literary hop, skip and jump, or convey clicking one’s heels in the written word, now would be the time. Fresh from four days in Scotland driving the simply astonishing Ferrari F8 Spider, there are times in one’s life where you have to sit back, take some time, and genuinely let an experience wash over you. You need to take it in. Revel in it. The smells, the sights, the sheer visceral nature of it. A surprisingly sun-filled week in June was one of those moments: invited to Scotland

by Ferrari, to sample some of the best roads, hospitality and people one could wish to find.

It was an invite that my editor accepted on my behalf without a word spoken. He knew. I

found out. Now it’s your turn.

The mid-engine V8 Ferrari represents something so ‘intrinsically sportscar’ that there is something reverential about taking in all that it offers. A short flight to Edinburgh from our favourite crew of orange-clad hosts and hostesses was conducted Covid-safe.

Which essentially translates to everything being closed, bar Duty Free. That it was a domestic flight meant I couldn’t even buy anything worthwhile, and there’s only so much Toblerone one can eat. (If there’s anything Alan Partridge taught me, it’s that.)

Another motorist suffered a crash on the

route into Edinburgh, which meant a delay to car collection and hopefully not a premonition as to the days ahead. Finally, the time arrives and greeted by the friendly smiles (masks mean this is an assumption) at Graypaul Edinburgh, I am introduced to the Ferrari F8 Spider in all her Giallo Triplo Strato splendour. No Rosso here, be it Corsa or Fuoco. The yellow paint is triple layered creating a surface that almost drips like butter. Deep, luxurious, almost thick. There is a real intensity to the paint that can be truly appreciated in the sun. As if the Gods (of whatever denomination) were smiling down, we were blessed with four days of complete sunshine. Make hay whilst the sun shines.

the theatre and argument machine that is Passenger Display. These are good familiar.

They show how far many outright sports manufacturers have come with touch points and infotainment systems in the modern age. Even the often-pilloried indicator switches actually work very well and are close enough to the action that they don’t require a mammoth physicality to apply. The near two decade use of the Manettino switch again is familiar territory, and in fairness, the interior is very much a progression from the 488 GTB. As is the case with the lineage of the mid-engine V8 Ferrari, the F8 takes features applied to the outgoing super series There is a familiar feel to the interior: the model of the previous generation. That dual screen surrounding the rev counter; means much is lifted from the magical 488 Taking in the car, I pour over the options in all their glory. Having been provided the specifications in advance, I knew the headlines – but in the flesh, it is a spectacularly well configured car. Providing enough of the ‘race’ to thrill, but still enough of the comfort that will be required of a car such as this. £86,000 of carbon options may well have aided this spectacle. For me, the best use being the matte carbon finishes to the interior that, when set against the textured tactility of the Alcantara parts, made for a special place to be.

Pista, and that, as a package, there promises much to excite.

My previous experiences of the prancing horse have been fleeting. A 20-minute drive in a 360 Spider, similar in an FF, and a handful of times riding shotgun, meant that I approached the task of driving with immense caution. The 360 was an unpredictable thing, and the FF is seemingly more than the decade old that it is. This meant I didn’t have the best yardstick from which to judge, from which to restrain, and from which to, therefore, push on.

Cold start. Loud. A Little droney. With the heat cycle finished, it settles to a thrum

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more than anything deeper. Regulations have snuck up on Maranello as well, it seems.

Driving through and then out of Edinburgh, pitted, cobbled, badly cambered and a whole heap of roadworks were all taken with zero issue. Keep one’s eye firmly on the road ahead, judge for potholes, dips and the like, and the car is no more difficult to drive than any lower tier sportscar, a fifth of the price.

Serene. Grab a gear and depress the accelerator and it will ping you off into the distance with such ferocious abandon that you’re forced to recalibrate before doing it again.

Of course, care commensurate with a £327,500 car needs to be taken. Parking sensors and relatively good visibility mean that parking and tight navigation is little problem. Then the road opens up. Visibility is perfect. Tyres, having had an hour of city and motorway are up to more usable temperatures. You light the touchpaper. You’re off. No ‘it squats down to launch you’. No ‘as the turbo spools’. You. Are. Gone.

“It urges, shouts, screams at you to push on. Drive me.

Drive me.”

The first time I set off, I slowed down remarkably quickly. It is an assault on the senses. They have created such a drivetrain that is turbocharged but has seemingly not a microsecond of lag. It is a clever thing, this engine and gearbox. Roll along placidly and it will scroll you into seventh gear at 42mph.

So, it’s fast – that’s almost a given. It’s actually faster than that, but for now, yeah, fast. The best thing about the car, the single stand out

element, is the ease. Now, some will say you want more danger, more unpredictability in a supercar. I say ‘shut up, you mentalist’. If

you want to drive harder than this, or with a stiffer set up, or want something with more bite, go and buy a track-focused car and drive on a track. You don’t need faster.

You don’t need scarier. The joy that comes with this car is that it is so exploitable. Don’t play silly games, don’t win silly prizes. I still took more liberties with this under me than maybe any other car I have been given. You know why? Because it asks it of you. It urges, shouts, screams at you to push on. Drive me.

Drive me.

The gearbox response through perfectly positioned paddles say ‘play me’. I swear I could pick up a double bass tomorrow with some skill if my ability on the paddles is anything to go by. The incredible vistas provided by the Cairngorms, wild and vast, provided the perfect backdrop to the incessant progress the car gave. The pull of Ferrari remains so universal that, invariably, traffic was met by gestures imploring us to pass, which we did with fierce abandon.

First grabs second, second grabs third, third grabs fourth. Steel yourself and fifth, six and seventh come in a blur.

One finds themselves hassling the wheel a little to maintain line. In race mode, the car utilises the Ferrari dynamic enhancer that trims corner angles through incremental brake inputs. Super high-techy-tech. What the driver gets is unrivalled engagement from the car. It is a car that requires some manhandling at the limit, but in 98% of scenarios, allows the driver to push on with such supreme confidence that time becomes immaterial. I drove the car at ten tenths in manual for maybe a solid two-hour period whilst heading north. Constant engagement.

120 minutes of seeking limits, of willing the car on, and to have it respond in turn. I don’t think I have spent a more enjoyable two hours in a very long time. For the benefit of my long-suffering girlfriend, I’d amend that by adding ‘the most enjoyable two hours spent in a car.’ But I’m not a liar.

Part of the car’s makeup that showcases Ferrari’s advances come in its aerodynamic package. The full-blown rear spoiler provides increased rear stability and the new smaller LED headlight units allow for revised aero intakes in the front end. All this was in part necessary to the positioning of the front two radiators in a rearward angled position.

This meant that there was a decrease in the underfloor surface area used to generate downforce. The redesigned aero elements, therefore, also needed to aid the dissipation of the hot air generated and this was achieved by creating a positive action with the wheel air flow. The result is a car 10% more aerodynamically efficient than the departing 488 Spider.

A generation in car development today brings a hell of a lot. That Ferrari can also call

upon the experience gained in its racing programmes, notably the GT and Challenge series that employ versions of their road going models means they have a wealth of data to exploit and in the F8 – the proof truly is in the pudding. The car decimates terrain. In the beautiful, wild expanses of the Scottish Highlands, miles flew past at a rate it’s as though we were running at x 1.25. The Old Military Road heading up to Speyside provided vistas and tarmac, the kind you dream of for a car like this.

Camber changes, elevations, bumps, all covered with assurance and poise. In fact, the only time that the car offered any sign that it was about to make me make the worst phone call ever was a brief loss of mass over a negative camber crest that fell away into a tight left-hand bend.

Scottish beauties were turning my eye whilst in her company. A Ferrari is an event at the best of times. In this hue, with a folding hard top which was, in essence, permanently stowed, was a sight to behold for anyone that came in contact with us. Staff at each hotel stop. The guys at the “closed” Arbelour Distillery. A rather wizened old Edinburgh local. All stopped. All looked. As, at heart, I’m a car guy through and through, maybe 1,286 people in Scotland have now had a picture sat in a Ferrari F8 Spider. Not a few of them also received ‘samples of the ride quality’. Because? Because why not. Share the joy. It’s a car that provokes an emotion.

And, even for those that aren’t subscribers to Evo, or avid viewers of the Grand Tour, it pulls you in. “Is it a Ferrari?’ No one asked what it was; they just wanted confirmation of what they already knew.

13:50 became 19:20, which became some other point in the space time continuum very quickly. Ten minutes of silence followed between me and passenger. I think some of that was spent Googling local facilities.

Other than that, the car was faultless.

Another beauty of modern manufacture and scale is that we didn’t encounter or worry about any possible gremlins. No heating issues. No infotainment having a meltdown.

No Christmas tree welcome from the dash.

Which all meant that we could concentrate on the matter at hand, namely thrashing the Italian tailored pants off the car.

Back to the car. I found myself concocting reasons to drive. 8am, Red Bull run? I’ll do it. At one point, I thought that I had lost my wallet. I drove around retracing my steps on a bright Saturday morning for the best part of two hours. It was under the passenger seat. I wasn’t even mad, quite the opposite.

A cricket-esque ‘howzat’ saw said wallet pinged 30 foot into the air in celebration.

Had the contents of stuffed receipts and screwed up notes decided to release themselves, the whole scene wouldn’t have been quite as joyous.

Waking up each morning was a treat; a treat to walk out to the car park and see her gleaming form awaiting me. Buy a car that you look back at as you walk away, they say.

This was a car I parked outside a café so I could sit and drink coffee and gawp at. No

When driving is all that one needs to accomplish in the four days, one may as well pile on the miles. Driving with intent but not foolhardiness is the sweet spot.

Find a playlist that sounds good loud. Plot a route into Waze, efficiently displayed on

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your right-hand screen through the magic of Apple CarPlay. The carbon-backed sports seats hug you close. You pull the right-hand paddle. All feels incredibly natural, and it is partly the ergonomics of the car inside that also add to the ease of motion outside. The paddles and switchgear are positioned well.

The screens can be seen and read. Because you’re not worrying about incidentals, you can concentrate on the tarmac, smiling maniacally and trying to remember lost lyrics from that playlist. Stopping power is prodigious through the carbon ceramic discs.

A wider operating temperature window means that, even worked hard, they don’t fade.

it is very effective in finding you the correct gear when being asked to drop down with throttle input, or as stated earlier, scrolling you through into seventh for efficiency. The combination of the gearbox and the lack of lag through the turbocharged drivetrain make for a package that is as engaging, as exploitable and as usable as anything that has crossed the production line at Maranello.

That it is capable of such meteoric speeds on straights and corners alike, and with a chassis that still retains dynamism despite any perceived softness, it will still entertain the seasoned peddler in a manner and pace little else will.

And the pedal response is incredibly consistent through a day of hard driving.

The gearbox also works well, with changes coming on demand, and in automatic mode,

The trip encompassed some wonderful stays. Fingal in Edinburgh. Dowans in Speyside. We met some wonderful people, saw some beautiful scenery, had a couple of

wicked hangovers. It is a trip I’ll remember for a long while. What I won’t ever forget is the car. I don’t claim to be a particularly skilled driver, but the F8 Spider made me heroic. My memories remain in a mental montage of the trip. I replay it often. Why watch Le Mans when you can be your own hero?

Specifications PRICE £225,897 PRICE: ENGINE: V8 ENGINE TORQUE: 770 Nm TORQUE 0-60: 2.90 seconds 0-60 TOP SPEED: SPEED 211.3mph GEARBOX: 7-speed, dualclutch F1 gearbox WEIGHT: 1400 kg WEIGHT

LAGERFELD Words & Photography: Simon Procter

D:

C U LT U R E : S I M O N P R O C T E R

THE CHANEL SHOWS

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I

was just barely getting by, working at an office job in Paris, when I met by chance James Kaliardos.

I didn’t know who he was but we quickly became friends. Turned out James was a renowned make up artist and one of the founders of the legendary New York fashion magazine V. He and one of the other founders Stephen Gan had an idea to shoot a fashion show from up on a roof. It was a bit unusual and none of their regular photographers were that interested. I had never been to a fashion show and thought it sounded like fun.

I had recently bought off eBay a very old dusty Mamiya Universal Press Rangefinder camera, with the optional 6x9 back—a huge heavy thing that had been state of the art in the late 1970s. I’d also managed to track down the mythical 75mm f/5.6 Biotar lense. Even though outdated this lense is still considered one of the sharpest ever made but in the early 2000s people were basically giving them away.

And by the time of the shoot I had almost figured out how it all worked. Firemen and security helped me climb up a rickety walkway to a roof far above the show. In the front row were Karl Lagerfeld, Yoko Ono, Elton John, Kate Moss, and a dozen other people I had only ever seen before in magazines. I knew this was a chance. I shot everything in as many ways as I could think of doing.

When I got all the films back and scanned, I spent a very long week putting it all back together, to make one single picture. I combined moments, I combined exposures, things that were invisible I made visible. I stitched shots together to make an impossible perspective and then worked some more to make it almost believable. At the end of the week I sent it to Stephen and James in New York. I was exhausted.

“person He greeted every single and made most of

them laugh. And then spoke very quietly to me alone. He told me that I should not worry and that he would do whatever I asked—that it was only my vision that mattered.

”

TBC

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CHANEL CAMBON, HAUTE COUTURE SPRING/ SUMMER 2010, RUE CAMBON, PARIS

“hisI camera saw Karl pause and put down and immediately three

people held out dictaphones, he then spoke to them in three different languages, before whirling off to do something else.

”

The next day they sent me to the Milan fashion shows and then on to New York. They printed the story across ten huge pages. The New York Times called me the day it came out and commissioned a three-day studio shoot (even though I had never been in a photo studio before). Later Nike called and then Nokia and we went around the world shooting amazing things and meeting amazing people.

But whenever I had a little time I would shoot a few Paris fashion shows, almost always Chanel, and I always sent the pictures to Stephen and James.

I met Karl Lagerfeld for the first time in 2006 because (again) of Stephen and James.

Harper’s Bazaar had commissioned me to shoot his portrait in various iconic New York locations. It was very nerve-racking; there were a lot of models and a lot that could go wrong. We knew Karl had been working all night and it was not even sure if he would turn up. We set up on the roof of a skyscraper waiting nervously and then he arrived. He greeted every single person and made most of them laugh. And then spoke very quietly to me alone. He told me that I should not worry and that he would do whatever I asked—that it was only my vision that mattered. It was an amazing day. The last shot was in Times Square, it was a great feeling; we knew we had done a great shoot and everyone was laughing. I felt like I was drunk. A lot of people had surrounded the shoot to see Karl and the ten beautiful models. More and more people kept coming to see and eventually we had completely blocked Times Square.

A few years later I had the idea for this book and James arranged for me to meet Karl in his Paris atelier. The place was filled with people—his closest creative collaborators—all of whom looked absolutely delighted to be there. It felt like a party and it was very exciting. Karl was doing a photoshoot at the same time as a hundred other things.

Michel Gaubert (sound designer for pretty much every fashion show) was there showing someone how to use their iPod. I saw Karl pause and put down his camera and immediately three people held out dictaphones, he then spoke to them in three different languages, before whirling off to do something else. After a while he came to me to discuss the project. I had prepared a presentation of the book but Karl just waved it aside “I don’t need to see, I know all of the works, they are wonderful, your work is wonderful, the book will be wonderful.”

I was lucky enough to meet him many times over the years; it was always a delight and we always did great work. The two things I remember most were that he always personally

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“ Karl Lagerfeld worked very hard for a long time and dwelled rarely on the past; he made people laugh and was polite to the point of graciousness. ”

RIZZOLI NEW YORK, 2019

CHANEL ROCKET, READY-TO-WEAR FALL/ WINTER 2017, LE GRAND PALAIS, PARIS

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“Many times whoever was standing next to him could be seen giggling uncontrollably over something he had whispered to them.”

greeted everyone in the room. The other, that he was very very funny. Many times whoever was standing next to him could be seen giggling uncontrollably over something he had whispered to them.

Karl Lagerfeld worked very hard for a long time and dwelled rarely on the past; he made people laugh and was polite to the point of graciousness. I think we can all learn something from that.

FOR FURTHER DETAILS OR TO PURCHASE, SELECT THE BOOK SLEEVE ABOVE.

CHANEL ROCKET, READY-TO-WEAR FALL/WINTER 2017, LE GRAND PALAIS, PARIS I couldn’t stop smiling the first time I saw the rocket. It was just so much fun. And so very impressive—an extraordinarily realistic space rocket almost touching the roof of the Grand Palais. It was also brilliant how they produced the show. To give the illusion of a flight launch, the fins at the base slid up the body of the rocket in a cloud of smoke and sparks. It was just fantastic! The original artwork became really popular with art collectors all around the world. I decided to take it further and produced another version that incorporated actual footage from the real NASA rocket launches.

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CHANEL CAMBON, HAUTE COUTURE SPRING/SUMMER 2010, RUE CAMBON, PARIS Chanel used their HQ as the venue for the show. A much smaller space than usual and as such a much more chaotic scene than usual. I managed to stake out a position to the right of the main group of photographers that I thought could work really well for the shot. And then I waited. Normally at a fashion show two enclosed and strictly secured areas are designated for the photographers, these are called the “podium” (regardless of whether or not it is an actual podium).

Often for what I try to achieve it’s not the best position and I have been very fortunate over the years to have been given very special access to choose the place I want. This is no small thing for Chanel to do as their shows are huge and immensely complex to run (and as a rule photographers are a nightmare).

Sometimes confusion about who is allowed where and to do what can creep in.

Just as the show looked like it would begin a person with microphone headset ran up and started shouting my name.

My heart dropped, my first thought was that there was some problem with my access and I was about to be removed from the show. I raised my hand, slightly reluctantly. “Quickly, quickly, Karl is asking for you.”

To my left fifty fashion show photographers gave me a combined dirty look. I can’t lie, it was brilliant.

I was led through a heavily protected door to the backstage. Everything here was different. It was quieter, as everyone was busy doing something, and surprisingly serene. The space was pretty tight, filled with people working very closely together. Beautiful models wearing huge heels and over a foot of hair towered over everyone. Stylists and make up artists picked at them, the show was seconds away from starting.

Karl came through the happy throng and greeted me warmly. And as he took my hand it was one of the strangest experiences of my life, everyone in that small space seemed to turn and smile lovingly at me for the longest time.

Then Karl started to explain to me his concepts for the show. I was starting to freak out a little, the show was seconds

“Just as the show looke it would begin a person microphone headset ran started shouting my na

ed like n with up and ame.”

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from starting. How would I be able to make it back to my original position?

Did everyone really love me? Was Karl expecting me to give feedback on his artistic choices? Did I have the right lens on the camera?

“Come,” said Karl as he led me right up the show’s runway entrance—I was almost in the show. “I really think this would be the best position to shoot from” said Karl. And he was right.

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Restomod Celebrate the Past, Embrace the Future Words: Ian Digman

There’s something of a ruckus going on in classic car circles at the moment.

There’s a growing breed of restorers who, rather than returning vehicles to their former glory, are daring to try to improve them and add modernity of design and technology. Are these restomods (restored and modified) destroying heritage or making icons more usable and relevant in today’s automotive landscape?

AU T O M O T I V E : I A N D I G M A N

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THE VOLVO P1800 CYAN

T

he last 12 to18 months have been memorable and forgettable in equal amounts. In amongst the on-off restrictions of lockdowns and the uncertainties surrounding vaccine roll outs, there have been some economic success stories.

Some obvious customer commodities have seen unprecedented growth – from TV subscription services and electronic communications to fitness equipment and coffee subscriptions. One slightly surprising winner has been the classic car market.

Whereas the true economic reality may be slightly more complicated, there are some simple underlying human behaviours at play.

People have had a lot more time on their hands, reconnected with themselves, and are suddenly

bereft of the opportunity to splash thousands of pounds on foreign holidays – and hence have newly identified disposable incomes. The value of sales has increased, as has the number of sales.

Classic cars can fall into different categories – from the factory-fresh exotica, rarified atmosphere of unadulterated limited edition specials (a 240 mile McLaren F1 going under the hammer in August, if you have very deep pockets) to the ‘spares or repair’ classified staple (believe me, they are spares at best, and there is a reason why someone left them in a barn for you to ‘find’).

Between these lie an intriguing middle ground of automotive history that should be celebrated and enjoyed. Whether this consists of earlier missed investments, a dream car of youth, or a nostalgic memory that needs to be re-lived.

I have loved cars for as long as I can remember.

I have loved them for their design, for their engineering marvel, and for what they enable people to do. Whatever your own reason for admiring classic cars, there are some facts that should be recognised. In general, old cars weren’t that good. We hark back to an era where things were different, when roads were empty and driving was a pleasure and a skill.

The driving environment has changed almost beyond recognition over the last 60 years since the first English motorway came into existence (oddly entitled the ‘M6’ due to a quirk in UK road labelling). The effortless road trips that were only punctuated by a picturesque picnic stop to rejuvenate passengers and fuel loads have been replaced by stop-go traffic and a war of attrition with Chelsea tractors for valuable tarmac space.

When I learned to drive, the Highway Code was to be memorised, the back page consisted of the

THE JAGUAR E-TYPE ZERO

stopping distances of vehicles at varying speeds. Whether that purpose is to retrieve the latest Without many exceptions, here lies an issue: your purchase from your favourite Swedish furniture average 1960s design icon cannot stop anywhere emporium, or to deliver physics-challenging lap near as quickly as the latest entry level city car.

Bumper technology advancements also mean that, when the relative stopping distances reach their unfortunate overlap, the newer model will fare significantly better.

Environmental issues and emissions standards have only recently pushed technology to a point where energy can be extracted from fossil fuels efficiently and relatively cleanly. One reason old cars have that distinct smell is a by-product of less-than-ideal tailpipe gases. Crumple zones weren’t a thing, nor was ABS or cruise control and, until Volvo did us all a favour in the 1960s and gave us the 3-point safety belt, we were all fair game.

“Enjoyable as it is watching race series like Goodwood Revival, it fills me with dread”

their technology limitations classic cars were built for a purpose and that purpose is still relevant today.

Enjoyable as it is watching race series like Goodwood Revival, it fills me with dread at the same time. These are priceless pieces of automotive history being pushed to and beyond their limits. Once driver skill or traction limits are exceeded, the pain is emotional and physical.

Cars crash. Parts are replaced.

When you see pristine vehicles that have gone through ‘nut and bolt restoration’ the attention to detail can be phenomenal. In many cases, the quality exceeds that of the original car. There is a reason for this: it is better than the original! Parts are replaced often with those that have undergone manufacturing and treatment processes that THE SX0001 During the development process cars are created by didn’t exist when the car was first conceptualised. a group of enthusiastic experts to serve a purpose. times round race circuits is immaterial. Despite I urge you to watch an engine rebuild (probably

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on time lapse as it is a lengthy process) all major components are rejuvenated, replaced, revised… changed. There comes a time where Trigger’s broom concept raises its head: if you replace the handle, still the same broom, replace the head, still the same broom – however nothing is original.

At what point is a car classed as ‘original’? Even the concept of ‘matching numbers’ means that people have only ensured that the replacement parts are of the same period, even if they are not the original parts.

An analogy can be made with aesthetic surgery

At what point is a car classed as ‘original’?

– this is the nip and tuck of the automotive world. Small little updates here and there to keep things looking, feeling and working a little bit better than if left to the natural ageing process.

Some procedures are subtle, unnoticeable to the untrained eye; others obvious, but understandable and appreciated. The analogy can go further in that some features should be left to age naturally and some alterations can be detrimental rather than enhancing.

The renowned automotive designer Frank Stevenson was given the challenge of bringing the iconic Issigonis designed Mini into the twentieth

century. The process he undertook involved reimagining the vehicle across the decades of design – the 70s, 80s, 90s. Without doubt, the vehicle looked incredible and time-period correct in each iteration. What that suggests is that you can retain the design ethos, yet make it relevant in a more modern setting.

Alfa Romeos hold a special place in the heart of anyone with an automotive passion. Their stunning designs have often been let down by some dubious build qualities and their affinity to oxidisation. Alfaholics have been modernising the design and making the technology fit for

purpose for a number of years. Their following is growing rapidly as is the value of the products they make. The price tags of £300k-plus become uncomfortably acceptable when you consider each demanded 3,000 hours of work, and this is not minimum wage skill set.

How much of the car is sacred? The sound and smell are an intrinsic part of the product.

Replacing the engine, therefore, is significantly more intrusive than a change of body colour.

Emissions regulations have led to incredible advances in technology eking out ever more performance from those dead dinosaurs.

Comparing what is possible today from a 1.6 litre engine versus what was possible when an Opel Manta was first created, puts them not even in the same game, let alone the same ballpark.

There are lines that need to be drawn. The sound of an air cooled 911, a four cylinder boxer engine or a perfectly tuned V12 cannot be beaten in the automotive world, in my view. Sounds that you hear coming from a distance which make you stop mid-conversation to see which legend you are just about to be honoured with.

The Volvo P1800 is an absolute stunner, but the

ROLLS-ROYCE PHANTOM V BY LUNAZ

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THE CHARGE AUTOMOTIVE FORD MUSTANG

performance let it down and the limited 1.8 or 2.0L engines (100 and 130hp respectively) put it in the ‘all show, no go’ category. Cyan came along and, with a history of race preparing Volvos, performed their precision surgery with some adept weight loss and implanting a 2.0L 414hp engine to create a £350k vehicle that has the critics singing its praises.

Electric vehicles are all the rage at the moment, with every major manufacturer jumping on the bandwagon of environmental superiority.

Whereas the claim would be that this is the ‘right thing to do’, there are moves afoot to limit the usage of traditionally engined vehicles. This means that before too long the sounds of V8s will no longer reverberate round the enclosed streets of our beloved cities.

EVs are incredible. If you haven’t driven one yet I urge you to do so – you don’t even need the mind-warping performance of Tesla or Rimac, a Renault Zoe will equally convince you of the benefits. If governments are pushing us to ditch the internal combustion engine, the real world performance is as good if not better, and

your kids will worship you for saving their dying planet, what’s not to like?

and won’t fall foul of the congestion charge or environmental protests.

Does that mean we should be ripping out the engines of every vehicle ever created? Far from it. If the engine is merely a source of energy, we can go back to the medical analogy, do heart transplants change the person? Or is the engine more than a method of producing power and, in fact, akin to a personality transplant?

This is no longer limited to the mad inventors and shed tinkerers, there are some serious investments and serious brands involved. Within the last months, David Beckham has put his financial clout and brand power behind Lunaz, a UK startup specialising in classic car revival.

The company isn’t shy about choosing the best with electrified versions of Bentley, Rolls Royce and the Mk1 Range Rover.

Where the engine is an intrinsic part of the car’s character can this be replaced? The thought of ripping out the glorious 6.1L V12 BMW engine from a McLaren F1 fills me with sadness, however, swapping out the gutless 2.8L V6 from the DeLorean seems perfectly acceptable. And that’s even without the concept of a working flux capacitor!

If a Jaguar E-Type V12 is untouchable, what about the lesser six cylinder? Jaguar themselves have offered an EV conversion from 2017, the Concept Zero. Where the original 3.8L car had a 0-60 time of 6.7s, the EV update does it in 5.5s. It has the 60s style, 21st century technology

If you are still in doubt about the seriousness of the movement, the London Classic Car show, returning after its Covid-enforced hiatus, has a dedicated theme regarding the electrification of the classics – let the cloth-capped debate ensue.

Cars of all varieties are being personalised at the point of sale. Everything from a unique sticker on your favourite Vauxhall all the way up to coloured carbon fibre on your chosen hypercar.

After-market tuners will take whatever you have and tweak it further, extracting every ounce of performance of the hardware available. If after-

market upgrades are acceptable to exceptional vehicles is there a time limit as to when those upgrades should be applied before it becomes unacceptable? Would exceeding that moment merely mean these restomods are just very late getting to the party?

It seems like, almost since its conception, people have been upgrading and improving the Land Rover Defender, yet this has never dented its appeal. Twisted, amongst others, operating out of its Yorkshire base for over 15 years, have been ‘re-engineering’ the classic Defender. As well as the common upgrades of chassis, brakes and interior, out goes the engine to be replaced by a better fuel consuming version or now even an electric version. For a vehicle that has morphed from a go-anywhere workhorse to a catwalk accessory, the ability to silently cruise the streets of London is an essential evolution.

Another automotive icon, the 911, has been successfully coiffured and pimped by Singer since 2009. Carbon fibre replacing sheet metal, interiors redesigned and engines remapped. Singer haven’t progressed as far as EV installations yet, but Everati have done so.

With Porsche themselves admitting that the next 911 will have electric propulsion the brand enthusiasts shouldn’t get too worried about damage being done to the legacy. As well as the emotional angst no one should be worried about what these upstarts are doing to the residual

values of their own investments – Singers change hands above £500k and there seems to be a new market for those ‘spares or repair’ body shells.

Sometimes the effort required to restore an original is more than it is to recreate from scratch. As such a number of ‘remastered’ classics now exist. These range from the OEM derived Aston Martin Goldfinger (glorious homage or cheap publicity stunt? You decide) to the Jaguar Concept Zero to companies who specialise in new ‘old’ cars. For the fans of English classics, we have recently seen David Brown with recreations of the Mini and the DB5 and RBW with an EV MGB. Charge Cars have completely reinvented the benchmark American muscle car, the Mustang, as an EV for the twenty-first century. If Italian thoroughbreds are your thing, then how about an MAT Stratos – provide your own donor vehicle and a starting price £500k and a legend remastered for today’s roads can be yours.

In my mind, classic cars should be appreciated as works of art and engineering inventiveness, and be retained as a living history lesson for those of us not lucky enough to enjoy them the first time round. However, they should be enjoyed by as many as possible. Retain what makes them unique and special, but don’t shy away from recognising their shortfalls and demanding better.

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Basic Sometimes an idea for an article comes from an experience, a question, or maybe a new launch. The seed might be planted by something that piques my interest as a development in the industry, which I want to nourish into fruition by further research – or as with the last issue, a huge change in the industry itself. I am the first to admit that the plans I had for my upcoming articles have had some huge changes, in order to stay reactive and true to the events of the past 18 months. As the seasons meandered in and out of lockdown, we somehow flew from month to month. And now here we are in summer 2021.

Words: Naom

mi Lake

B E AU T Y : B A S I C A D D I T I O N

Addition

THE REVIEW 2021 101

Other times, a piece might come from an adventurous journey I take on a particular topic. A pet hate within the industry is the idea of trying something once and hailing it as a wonder. There are some things which you really need to invest your time in to see results.

Wellness is one of them. We all aim to eat well, exercise regularly and take the time to rest, but sometimes we need a little more. Here, we might turn to supplements (along with the creation of the neuroplasticity to remember to take them), but where do we begin?

I started my journey with a tailored supplement regimen at the back end of last year, but as I thrum my fingers on the keys of my laptop (such a shame we don’t put pen to paper as much anymore, no?) I am sitting in a hotel room amid a three-week stint of back-to-back shoots and private clients. The dispense of my chosen supplements has become indispensable whilst my industry has finally ramped back up to full speed, during the reoccupation of its proud place in the economy.

But with all the best will in the world, and topical reading to boot, nutrition is not my area of expertise. I decided to reach out to an expert, an old friend Fiona Campbell. We first worked together over five years ago, with me as her client. A big move across the country and a huge change in work, as my move to freelance had left me unbalanced in my lifestyle, feeling sluggish, and struggling to find the answers to how to regain control of my seemingly unruly body. I was intrigued to see how I was doing now in my choices – and more to the point, how I could, dare I say, do even better.

Fiona’s background in nutrition is widereaching. Working internationally and with regular guest slots on Sky News, she also taught and led clinics for the College of Naturopathic Medicine in Bristol and worked as Director of Studies for four years, all whilst working directly with individuals and plenty of celebrity clients.

With clinics in the South West, Fiona also offers consults online to cater to the needs of clients further afield.

I shared with her my areas of interest, which being honest, aren’t particularly trailblazing, but are areas I know for sure that so many of us look to improve. The world is re-opening, we are busy playing catch-up. We fill every moment and want swift answers for even the most complex of problems. So, let us break it down for you and help you to find the components you need for the sum of your own good health. It’s basic addition.

ENERGY ELEVATION I’m confident in saying we all know about Vitamin D. In layman’s terms, it’s our ‘happy vitamin’. Helping to boost energy and maintain bone strength, it has been linked to immunity and disease prevention too, in relation to protection and even recovery from Covid-19. My go-to is vegan-friendly HUM Here Comes The Sun. Even better, HUM looks after the environment too, with all bottles using ocean-bound plastic (a crucial factor to tackle waterway pollution, repurposing discarded post-consumer and industrial waste). Estimates say that around

“80% of ocean contamination is by plastic that originated from land, but HUM is working to eliminate their use of single-use plastic by 2025.”

80% of ocean contamination is by plastic that originated from land, but HUM is working to eliminate their use of single-use plastic by 2025.

In my quest for nuclear-level energy resources, I looked to another HUM offering, Uber Energy. With adaptogen ashwagandha, and traditional herbs eleuthero and astragalus root, it’s a balanced lift without the jitters and delayed effects of caffeine. Reassuringly, Fiona approved too, “I really like this, it contains a decent amount of energy regulating adaptogenic herbs to avoid the ‘wired and tired’ effect of caffeine. It also contains B vitamins to support the development of red blood cells, which carry oxygen around the body and help it to best utilise fats and protein for energy.”

I loved the vitality boost, but worried I was intolerant to one of the ingredients as my skin was less than happy with this addition to my diet. A delicate flower, I already know of my allergy to apples, lactose intolerance, and skin hypersensitivity to rose and lavender oils. I reached out to Fiona, to find out about potential sensitivities with supplements. What should I look out for as a symptom, or how might I work around this?

“Everyone reacts differently to food and supplements. It could be the fact that you were pushing yourself so hard with all the new-found energy, which caused the skin flareups, as opposed to an intolerance or allergy to the herbal compounds you were taking. To be absolutely sure, however, I would suggest that you take a nutrient focused complex for a month instead. B vitamin deficiencies are a key trigger for flare-ups by causing blood vessels to dilate. Then add the herbs back in later.”

I was excited for the confidence boost to add this back in gently, just with a little tweaking.

After all, the body is no straightforward two-stroke engine; it’s a complex design of intertwining systems, which sometimes require a little trial and error to get running in tune.

IMMUNITY INCREASE Immunity is at the forefront of wellness focus right now, and for good reason. It has been a scary time for our communal health, and a time where self-care from all angles has been so important to be able to stoically keep calm and carry on. But where do we aim? Vitamin C? Vitamin D? Probiotics? I let Fiona take the

lead here for guidance on how best to keep your immune system in tip-top shape.

“Many people don’t know that 80% of your immune system tissue is located in your gut, so a balanced microbiome which keeps the lymphatic tissue healthy is key to keeping inflammation and illness at bay. I really like EQUI London - Immunity Edition because it contains a sensible amount of beneficial bacteria, as well as Vitamin D and plant compounds. Research links these with a faster recovery from upper respiratory infection, plus a reduction in flare-ups associated with inflammatory conditions, such as rheumatoid arthritis.

Many companies attempt to get everything you appear to need in one bottle, but consumers end up with ingredients at levels too low to support any potential results. EQUI London, however, specialises in a one-bottle solution and I think they are absolutely nailing it. It’s important not to take too many different supplements at once, for two main reasons: firstly, you won’t know what’s working when you do see results, and secondly, there is the potential to damage your health if you take too

much or the wrong things together. Nutrient, herbal and drug interactions are more common than you think, so it’s important to consult a nutritionist or your GP before starting any new regime.”

from a serious skin problem, but while you’re waiting for dietary changes and any nutritional support to start taking effect, the best thing to do is focus on hydration, sleep, reducing stress and avoiding inflammatory elements such as nicotine and alcohol.”

SATISFIED SKIN

Another little helper I love to add in is HUM - Arctic Repair. With Vitamin A, E and Omegas 3-6-9 from vegan-friendly Lingonberry seed oil, it’s a simple, yet effective formula which easily fits alongside other supplements, and works to improve the skin in several ways.

Firstly, Omegas 3, 6, and 9 are crucial for synthesising cell membranes, and calm the skin’s inflammatory response whilst improving the quality and performance of your skin within its protective barrier function.

Antioxidant Vitamin E works on cell function, combatting free radicals to further improve skin health, and finally, Vitamin A directly speeds up healing, prevents breakouts and maintains the skin’s natural moisture levels.

I will readily admit, as one of my longestrunning supplements in my armoury, Advanced Nutrition Programme - Skin Clear Biome is one of which I am least willing to give up. It is also one of the most simple additions, with little worry of contradiction with other supplements, just zinc and their Skin Clear Biome complex of four bacteria and yeast strains. The strong link between gut health and immunity leads further to the improved health of your skin. For me, it means an obvious reduction in redness, far less congestion and a brighter complexion overall.

But it takes time, as Fiona reminds us. “I always have to remind my clients that due to the lengthy cellular renewal process in the skin it often takes four weeks to start seeing any changes. It’s frustrating when you’re suffering

It’s wonderful to be able to confidently attribute a cause and effect, and over the weeks since first introducing Arctic Repair, fine lines around my lips and eyes don’t jump

THE REVIEW 2021 103

out at me at first glance in the mirror quite the way they did before. And, despite the change in the seasons, my usually oily-tending complexion feels much more balanced.

sounds. Combined with MSM, this supports healthy inflammatory processes and should provide good antioxidant support for the skin.”

THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH

GUT TONICITY?

What used to be elusive is getting tentatively within reach with every passing year, with new treatments, advanced skincare and new nutritional formulas. For those who don’t get on with tablets or capsules, meet EQUI London - Beauty Formula, a daily nutrient powder, as an easy addition to smoothies, or simply taken in water. But what does it bring to the equation?

Formulated to improve all areas of skin health, in just two scoops, with a balanced mix of vitamins, minerals, adaptogens, probiotics, marine collagens, herbs, supergrasses and berries – it’s the perfect addition to a good skincare regimen and an overall balanced diet.

We always get told that the best antioxidants are the most colourful. But as with many things that are good for us, including the rainbow every day isn’t that easy. HUM - Daily Cleanse gets you your colours, from chlorella algae to beetroot, and spirulina too. In fact, the blend offers an array of different detoxifiers to support better digestion and clearer skin.

If you’re looking for a vegan option for fortifying collagen, which until now could be difficult to find, look no further than Advanced Nutrition Programme - Skin Collagen Support.

It’s another Fiona-approved formula. “I like the ingredients in this complex, Super Oxide Dismutase being one of my absolute favourites as a clinician; its role is to prevent oxidative damage and it’s as much of a superhero as it

Fiona delves deeper for us again: “Having enough antioxidant support is crucial for your internal and external glow. The role of antioxidants is to help to neutralise free radicals which can damage the cells of the skin and cause more signs of premature ageing.

It’s absolutely true that eating a wide enough variety and an optimum quantity of fruits and vegetables is a challenge, but that’s the first port of call if you really want to beam from the inside out. It doesn’t matter how good a supplement is, if you haven’t got the right building blocks in place.”

We have already heard from Fiona about the importance of your gut health, but what about a little above that, your stomach? HUM Flatter Me offers a complete range of digestive enzymes, working to assist in the breakdown of everything from proteins to vegetable fibres, with herbal digestive aids fennel, ginger and peppermint. From a helping hand for a sensitive tum to getting a headstart on a heavier meal, Flatter Me should always be nearby.

“I often recommend digestive enzymes, particularly where there are persistent signs of impaired digestion which occur immediately after eating. This formulation really does hit the spot where bloating and cramping persist – and you’ve already spoken with your GP. That said, nothing delivers more effective results than slowing down and chewing your food properly. So many of my clients suffering from IBS are surprised to discover that with a bit of focus and mindfulness around eating, the vast majority of their symptoms can disappear within days.”

STRENGTH OF SINEW I will admit, I was lost at this juncture. I

FIONA CAMPBELL - FOUNDER OF THE NORDIC ENERGY PLAN

balance my multi-vitamins, I’ve read widely, sought advice at each crossroad, and trialled supplements for so many other aspects of my wellness. My runner’s knees are woefully ignored in my current schedule, but I was sure Fiona would be able to put me back on the right path.

“When you think of joints, think of good fats such as Omega 3 and 6, collagen, and getting enough sunshine to maintain optimum levels of Vitamin D. Look to support your gut microbiome, where 80% of your immune system tissue lives and which keeps inflammation in check. I always recommend high-strength Omega 3 supplements such as Nutri Advanced - Collagen Forte.”

“When you think of joints, think of good fats such as Omega 3 and 6, collagen, and getting enough sunshine to maintain optimum levels of Vitamin D.”

THE FINAL SUM

in my 21 Day Nordic Energy Plan is crucial to the maintenance of health and well-being.

There is no skirting around that with even the most glossy of pills.”

My favourite part of Fiona’s method is her perfectly linear approach to the idea. As we’ve seen, put simply, nutrition is what you consume.

It sounds so simple, but something that is so easily forgotten, what with so many variables in the area and our busy schedules. “Of course, none of these supplements are going to work properly without the foundation of a healthy diet. Eating locally produced food that meets organic standards such as the ones I recommend

My first experience with Fridge Fills from Detox Kitchen couldn’t have come at a better time. Bouncing around from hotel to hotel at the tail-end of a lockdown is not conducive to accessing the best dining experiences, an evening at Soho House notwithstanding.

Returning home, tired and bloated, the desire was burning for a nutritious meal, yet the time and energy to make it was smouldering in ashes. I was met with a fridge laden with

beautiful meals with the best ingredients to keep me going through my busy weekend of clients.

Their vegan-friendly Cobb garden salad is a particularly scrummy mix of chunky new potatoes, crisp cherry tomatoes and smooth vegan feta cheese, with a tangy cashew dressing.

Here you have swift lunches or light dinners at the ready, with so much more excitement on the palate than one might be able to rustle up themselves on the fly.

When you’re craving something more filling, their straight-to-oven meals are ready in fifteen minutes, with hearty slow-cooked (just not by you) curries, to super-fun dishes like their enchilada lasagne. Mexican meets Italian? Let me at it. Fragrant rice, smooth black beans and a signature smoky chipotle sauce, layered over corn tortillas. Most definitely something I will recreate at some point, but which I was very happy to bring to my plate with absolutely zero effort.

And so it is, we again come to the close of another theoretical adventure together, but hopefully one that offers the elements of a new practice to explore. I, for one, am not planning to stop tinkering with the numbers – not just yet.

FRIDGE FILLS FROM DETOX KITCHEN

THE REVIEW 2021 105

IN PROFILE : ANDREW WESSELS

in profile

“The impression you make online is as powerful as the one you make in person,” claims The Marque, a service designed for highprofile professionals to take control of their digital narrative and brand. From chairpeople to TV personalities, its client list has steadily grown into a who’s-who of global gravitas.

We met with The Marque’s founder and CEO, Andrew Wessels, to discuss the inspiration behind the service, and why our online presence is more important than ever.

Words: Laith Al-Kaisy

THE REVIEW 2020 107

H

ow did the idea for The Marque come about?

I was actually looking for a new venture, as I had successfully exited my company in 2014 and was researching former mentors and colleagues online – tracking their career paths and seeing how they’d reached the top.

However, all the information about them was so disparate. It was unorganised and outdated.

Seeing a gap in the market, I set out to build a digital profile management platform that would provide leaders in their fields with an accurate, current and clearly presented online profile that offers privacy and security from unwanted solicitation.

Were you able to test the idea with highprofile acquaintances – friends or people you’ve worked with?

Yes, my very first target was Lord Rose, who had left M&S to become the new chair of Ocado. Despite his high profile, I googled him and had to go through about 13 or 14 different websites to work out what was true and what was incorrect. It felt backwards to me that there wasn’t one location where I could source all of the facts about him. That was the kernel of the idea and I took my plan to 20 high-profile acquaintances and asked if they would pay for an online profiling service. The hugely positive response meant I took the plunge and created The Marque.

A large part of our audience is made up of people who own and run big businesses. Some are digitally savvy, others less so. How important is it to give a good first digital impression?

We call it your ‘Digital Twin’ – and it’s hugely important. A profile on The Marque offers factual, accurate and engaging content about an individual which has been expertly search engine optimised. Profiles also link to the most impactful media coverage and help counteract against search results with incorrect information, such as Wikipedia.

As well as profile management, we offer a digital audit service, providing an in-depth analysis of a client’s current digital presence, which is vital to identify any weaknesses. Clients are often exposed without realising it – for example, websites giving out personal information, family members making unwise comments on social media.

We can imagine this service being relevant to many of our readers. What’s the process for someone looking to get

“We offer a digital audit service, providing an indepth analysis of a client’s current digital presence, which is vital to identify any weaknesses.” their digital profile in order?

Very simple. Get in contact with our sales team, who will advise on which of our services are recommended. For profiles, these are researched and created by our digital media centre, sent to the client for their approval and then kept up-to-date by a dedicated profile manager, with the help of some sophisticated software.

LinkedIn, Twitter and Instagram – even if you don’t use them, own your identity with a bio about you so that you can’t be confused with someone who shares your name and may be an unsavoury character.

What are the online touchpoints people should consider when maintaining their own digital profile and footprint?

Ensure that you know exactly what your personal digital footprint is and says about you.

What does your Twitter feed say about you? Do you still have a MySpace page which shows a different personality to the person you now are?

Build your online reputation through your behaviour. Contribute to your positive, professional digital footprint by posting only those things that contribute to the image of you that you want your bosses, banks or future spouses to see – Kamala Harris googled her husband before their first date!

Nowadays, it seems people can quite quickly destroy their personal brand with little more than a tweet. Do you also advise people on how they should act and interact online?

When we first start working with a client, our initial research gives a good overall impression of what is out there about them. We don’t advise people on how to act and interact online, though. The Marque was established to help clearly present and curate the online profiles of especially talented businesspeople, about whom the information online may be fragmented or difficult to navigate.

How ‘big’ or successful do you need to be before investing in your digital presence?

Our clients have had success in many fields and illustrious careers that stretch over decades, so the business was established to clearly illustrate these achievements. We do due diligence on each of our clients and look to ensure that they will be compatible members of our community.

We truly believe you are the digital company you keep.

Every person at every level should be investing time into their digital presence. We can all do little things, such as signing up for Google Alerts and owning your identity on all platforms like

Have you seen any changes to the business due to the pandemic? Have people needed the service more or less, or for different reasons?

THE REVIEW 2021 109

Definitely! We have seen a huge surge during the pandemic, due to everyone being stuck behind computer screens and more specifically Zoom. Previously, you would make your first impression with a handshake. Now you make your first impression on whatever a search engine chooses to serve up. It is vital, therefore, to manage this and ensure you have controlled digital assets, not random ones, representing you.

The digital and technological world is constantly changing. How do you see The Marque evolving in future?

We have just launched the Digital Briefcase, which is really exciting and crucial to providing peace-of-mind that your digital persona is accurate and that threats are identified and dealt with immediately. The Briefcase is made up of four elements: a deep-dive digital audit, a Marque profile, live web and social media monitoring, as well as access to expert digital partners to resolve threats as they appear.

The digital audit provides an in-depth analysis of a client’s current digital footprint to determine any reputational and security risk factors. After our team trawls the web using a methodically considered range of keywords,

search engines and locations, all tailored to a client’s requirements, the final report analyses the findings and offers a complete set of ‘next steps’ to mitigate risk.

Discoveries may include false information, negative media coverage, poor imagery, fake social media accounts and inappropriate associations. Also included is real-time social monitoring and sentiment analysis to identify emerging reputational and privacy risks across radio, television, web, and social media. ‘Red alerts’ are sent immediately so we can advise on how to react accordingly.

TR

7

AU T O M O T I V E : C AT E R H A M

ANALOGUE WEAPONRY

Photography: Roger Chan

@rchanphotography

Words: Aaron Edgeworth

@aaron.luke.edgeworth

Photography: Alexander Jaskowski

@aleksandercreative

There are few certainties in life. Death and taxes are two. A third is that should you should never drive a Caterham that needs to be rectified.

The hour journey home from Caterham Gatwick after collecting the Caterham 310R had me sold. Every mile that followed simply reinforced my newfound love. It’s like that lust in a new relationship, except I don’t see this one waning.

THE REVIEW 2021 113

The formula for the success of the car was first created in the late fifties by Lotus stalwart Colin Chapman. The lotus philosophy of lightweight, pared-back sports cars brought with it spirited performance and allowed many amateur racers their first foray into racing. Simple engineering meant simple maintenance and cheaper costs than most other eligible racers of the day. When Lotus ended production, which spanned 1957 to 1973, they sold the rights of the design to Caterham Cars – and the rest is history.

Whilst many of the details have changed and progressed over time, the analogue nature of the car remains. And with a varied line up,

one is able to decide just how wide you want your smile to be. In this review, I’ll provide my views on two of their cars that showcase two different levels of hardcore – but both are surprisingly accessible. The two models that I have experienced to date represent two distinct products, but with a common feel.

First up, the 310R, powered by the 1.6 litre Ford Sigma engine. The second, the 620S, this time powered by a supercharged 2 litre Ford Duratec engine. The consistency is both in the lack of driver aids and the lack of any electrical assistance. No power steering. No ABS. Let’s just say the search for a cup holder proved futile.

“Roundabouts suddenly become learning skid pans, and they can be taken in so many ways! Hard in, heavy flick to the steering wheel and the backend will dislodge nicely”

Traction control? Traction control? Jog on, buddy. The letters that buttress the numbers represent the specification level associated with the model in question, though both are available, these were as supplied for test. As such, the 310 was an ‘R’ spec car which means a limited slip differential and track biased suspension as the two main headline aspects of the package. The 310 as tested wore the standard chassis, the 620, the SV chassis which provides about 8% larger dimensions. Taking the 301R first, gave me an opportunity to ease myself into the range, and, whilst there are two models that sit below it, for many enthusiasts, it is considered the sweet spot in the line-up.

I arrive at Caterham Gatwick to collect and, despite damp conditions, I’m eager to get involved in the car and out onto the road. After a coffee and a browse, I’m taken over to OEZ 727, to get familiarised with the setup. The car provided a gleaming white, with Porsche Gelbrun accent stripes and roll cage. The red battery cut off switch located by the driver’s wing added additional drama.

For once, I’m all ears. I drive a lot of cars. I normally like to acclimatise myself to a car organically. Learning like an owner would.

Seeing how ergonomically sound the design is.

How foolproof the systems are. I’m not exactly an early adopter when it comes to technology.

I mean, I still read books. Made of paper. With printed words. Madness, right? So, I like to ease myself into controls and learn the car’s inputs as I pass miles. This, however, was something so new to me, that I listened eagerly to the explanations.

Things I did not know: there is a heater and a USB port. Having a quick release steering wheel and a battery cut off key are two of the coolest car accessories one can have. The switchgear needs explaining, so do the majority of the plastic switches and aluminium toggles. It’s a fair amount of information to take in, but once there is familiarity, it all becomes no harder than driving any other car. Well, in the ‘how do I indicate?’ and ‘how do I sound my horn?’ stakes, at least.

Easing out of the car park, I have inputted my home address into Waze and the phone is at something resembling a readable angle whilst perched atop my rucksack that was resident in the passenger footwell. The floor, basically.

First throttle inputs are laughable as I figure out the biting point and the car moves forward at a snail’s pace whilst the engine screams. Good look, Aaron, good look. The junction at the exit of the site leads to the phone disappearing under the seat, the bag contents being strewn across the floor, and me trying to figure out which of the pedals my seemingly oversized feet are applying pressure to. The first 600m prove confusing. One, of course, perseveres.

First issue is the clutch. A relatively heavy pedal with a somewhat high biting point. In town, there needs to be some modulation of the pedal for smooth running at slower speeds. Clutch and accelerator need to work in harmony to rev match as best as possible and to ease the car into motion. Once adjusted to inputs and responses, a slightly more laissez-faire attitude can be applied to use of clutch and accelerator and the car fizzes along from a standing start.

Give more to the power and rolling burnouts are literally as easy as getting in. That’s to say straightforward, after you’ve done it once. And that seemed to be the theme with the car. With both cars, in fact. They’re surprisingly simple things to drive. There is a huge amount of slip, the brakes need working and the steering is heavy at slow speeds. But once all these facets have been registered and acknowledged, yeah, it’s a pretty easy thing to get along with. As I said, by the time I got back to base in Surrey, I was a convert.

I spent a week with each of the cars in which I tried to shoehorn as many miles as possible, as, in truth, it’s the most amount of smiles you’re

going to find on four relatively exposed wheels.

Whilst in possession of the 310R, I spent a day shadowing the magazine’s production team on a shoot alongside the Distinguished Gentleman’s Rideout. This annual affair consists of traditional and not-so-traditional bikes, ridden by riders adorned in their absolute finest. It would be a rare car that could ingratiate itself enough to be considered a worthy addition to the fold. The Caterham proved that very car.

Nothing like it engages the public in such a way.

Cars can provoke many emotions, envy being one of them. Not so the Caterham. There is a respect that many people will not know they possess – yet respect it they do. More children pointed at the car with unbridled joy than anything else that I have driven, and at the other end of the scale, the breadth of memories that they elicit is also a thing to behold. I’ve lived at my house for four years. A neighbour I’ve had little more than passing acknowledgement with during that time accosted me for a long conversation about his history with the car. He used to race Caterham’s after his retirement. I had a conversation with a rather wizened old man about his history with the Seven, one that seemed to span the same history of the car. It’s an amazing equalizer in the automotive space.

The day consisted of a sizeable lap of beautiful London Town, which was free to be joined by anyone wanting to take part. Spacing was important, so as not to swamp London, and over the course of the day, the filming group, with me in tow, hitched onto a fair few groups and covered a fair few miles around the centre of London. Sacrificing doors and roof for aesthetics, the day was a feast of traction loss and tyre smoke. All the control of the car comes so easily. Everything, despite the noise and smoke, is completed in measured control. The neutrality of the chassis and its response means that acclimating to the car and its dynamic potential is easier and quicker than I would have imagined.

Roundabouts suddenly become learning skid pans, and they can be taken in so many ways!

Hard in, heavy flick to the steering wheel and the backend will dislodge nicely, and in a way that is eminently predictable and catchable.

Clutch and accelerator modulation will provide all the necessary slip to initiate a drift, and the balance between the two is again something easily learnt.

Leaving any junction is an amusement. It becomes a case of how many times do I fishtail, and what gear do I run this madness into?

The 310R is 155BHP in a circa 540kg package meaning a power to weight ratio of 281BHP per tonne. That is no slouch. Top speed is a quoted

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127mph, but in a package such as this, anything close to those speeds will resemble that point in any seventies space movie when the hyperdrive is kicked in. You know, the surrounding melting into some stretched out version of themselves as the sheer speed blurs the exterior. I mean, fine, it’s not quite like that, but the sensation of speed is one that is certainly augmented by a seating position so low, one does feel tempted to try and recreate Fast and Furious every time one sees an HGV. Throttle response is as quick as you would expect, with the side exit exhausts blowing a hot, vibrant soundtrack into the air. It’s a unique parp and rises with a shrill noise as you plough further into the rev range. There is no red line so to speak, but the engine is one that can be throttled hard and enjoys the fury of hard driving. Gearchange is via a fivespeed box lifted straight from the Mazda MX-5.

In this form, it’s a short and stubby hard ball with a short throw and a tight gate. Given the dimensions that surround you, position and feel is perfect, but does lead to a standard Caterham injury, the bruised palm. I swear it’s the car.

Honestly. The second common injury occurred on both cars, which is a fair-sized burn to the calf. Those cans get hot when under consistent load. Having said that, both occurred early in the loads, and it is simply another adjustment

one needs to make when stepping inside. Or is this case outside.

Inside both cars – and though the 620 has a dash unique to the model, things maintain the stripped back feel that has always been associated with the car. Whilst there are some modern elements such as the aforementioned heater, almost everything else are merely functional additions to the core of the car, which is its dynamic potential. No radio or audio system, no insulation, no steering wheel buttons, no stalks. The aim is for the driver to concentrate on pedals, stick and wheel, and to keep focussed on the road ahead. Arms are slung a little over the sidepods of the chassis.

Feet are long into the tunnel and, despite an incredibly close pedal box, there is plenty of room to use the pedals freely. Well, once suitable footwear is selected, at least. Both cars wore a full screen and all-weather protection; a must for any press car – and certainly any press car in this green and pleasant and wet land. The 620 also had a half hood, a trick, buckled item that leaves what would be the post B pillar space, and the majority of the rear screen open to the elements. Allowing for solid weather protection for all but the heaviest of rain. As I found out, when I went out in the heaviest of rain. On the M25. But more on that foolishness later.

I found that the 310R became my car of choice for the entire time that I had her. Regardless of pursuit. Weekly shop at the supermarket? Take the Caterham. I don’t have children, I have the smallest dog, so why not. You’d be surprised how many bags for life fit in the footwell and well-rounded carbon seats of a Caterham.

Also, if you do it late enough, the car park can provide some wonderful lines for exit. The slimmer, standard chassis fitted to this car was fine to accommodate my not overly svelte fivefoot ten frame. Those carbon seats, heated in the 620, are fantastically comfortable. I made a few longer journeys and they left me feeling no worse than many other more luxurious cars I’ve driven.

Departing the Distinguished Gentleman’s Rideout in London to finish filming at Cowdray Park in Surrey meant an hour-and-forty-five minute in the rain sans roof and doors, as they had been stowed earlier for ease and my vanity.

The only thing not vibrating or ringing on arrival was my back and rear end, so that says something about the seat quality.

It’s fair to say that the 310R proved an instant classic in my book. I approached my loan of the 620S with a little more reticence. The reason being that the 310R was eminently manageable, but one was still conscious of the

lack of aids with the car. Brakes need working, as does steering, and the pliancy of the chassis is all well and good at lower speeds and power.

How would a supercharged car, with double the power, in the same package, behave, especially in anything below perfect conditions.

The press 620 looks wicked cool. Lamborghini Viola Parsifae with the larger 15-inch ally option in anthracite. Carbon wheel covers and light pods add to the aggressive stance of the car. As stated, the 620S wears a unique dash. The 310R had the optional carbon fibre dash, but the 620 has a line-up of toggles replacing all switchgear that give such an intense race feel, that I had to stop myself every time I got in from flicking them all like some kind of fighter pilot start up.

Again, the wonderful UK brings with it weather that no one wants. Collection day was again a damp squib of an affair. This time after the familiarisation exercise, I actually ask the question ‘Um, is it difficult to drive?’ I explain that in a car such as this I would rather be warned and prepared than cocky and fucked. I was told that it was as linear and as neutral as the 310 I had previously. I call bullshit, but let’s see.

How wrong I was. The supercharger whine adds another visceral element, but the way that the car responds to inputs and how it feels beneath

you is no different to the 310. Well, that’s not true: everything is similar, but it all happens much, much faster. The 620, as the name suggests, provides 310BHP from that Ford two litre. That equates to 575BHP per tonne.

Supermegalolz as I like to say. That equates to a 0-62 sprint in 3.4 seconds with the 5-speed box.

That figure reduces to 2.75 seconds with the optional sequential gearbox. For comparison,

“The 620, as the name suggests, provides 310BHP from that Ford two litre. That equates to 575BHP per tonne.” the 310R does the sprint in 4.9 seconds. The 620 will continue to 155mph, and I believe every bit of that. But Alex at Caterham was correct.

It’s the same car, just much, much, much faster. The speed with which the car goes from 60 to, well, let’s just say ‘very quick’ is simply

astonishing. The needle just pings round the dial. That wheel spin and slip seen in the 310 is obviously present here as well, again, it just comes lower in the accelerator pedal, but is no less manageable once the adjustment is made.

There is, therefore, a lot more care that needs to be taken when even pootling around in the 620. The management of clutch and accelerator is a much more nuanced affair and, given the output of the engine, she does run rather hot, requiring some suitable management if stuck in traffic. The 620 is a car that likes revs going through the engine and air coming into the intakes. Whilst I applied that same formula to the 620 as the 310 (i.e. used it incessantly) the 310 was certainly the much more usable of the pair given the less fizzy engine; it requires much less in management. However, what it does with the 620 is add to the madness of it. You are under no illusions as to what you are driving and what it can do when it’s under you.

That journey on the M25? I went to show a friend that car, and I thought I was running away from the weather instead of straight into it. That meant a good 45 minutes near stationary in storms on the M25. The graveyard of many a hope and dream. Half hood as well because I’m a posy fool. It was not ideal; it’s all about moderation. In dry conditions under

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full chat, the 620 will spin up into fourth. It, therefore, needs to be driven with respect and concentration. It will also do 150m of slip in motorway traffic, because if we’re not going anywhere, I may as well amuse the accumulated traffic, right?

So, neither week was the ideal set up. British weather conspired to provide limited dry

running. Damage to my own car meant that the 310 at least needed to be employed as my daily driver for the week and with the world returning to some semblance of normality. That meant rather packed roads. Every minute was a joy. Every minute taught me more about my own skills (and deficiencies), but at the end of both weeks, I felt more accomplished and more confident behind the wheel. The days that I

spent in Scotland with the Ferrari F8 Spider (also detailed in this issue) came in between the two Caterham loans – and for me, that was a blessing. The enjoyment in the Ferrari was raised by the confidence and knowledge acquired from my time in the Caterham. You can’t lay claim to being a car person – one that loves the thrill of driver engagement – if you don’t own one of these.

TR

“Every minute was a joy.

Every minute taught me more about my own skills (and deficiencies), but at the end of both weeks, I felt more accomplished and more confident behind the wheel.”

LUXURY ENGLISH–MADE LEISUREWEAR

MADE IN ENGLAND

Words: David Birtwistle Photography: Alexander Jaskowski

Back in 2012, when Facebook was going $38 a share and John McGuinness was w another TT, a gentleman by the name of M was rounding up a group of likeminded bi Sydney. Their name was simply ‘Café

@gentlemansride

CHRIS (L) AND DAVID (R) ENJOYING A POST RIDE COFFEE AT COWDRAY HOUSE

E V E N T: T H E D G R

g public at winning yet Mark Hawwa ike riders in éRacer’.

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“We would head out on tours for long weekends and stop at these beautiful locations.

We were there to camp under the banner of friendship and mutual assistance.”

After seeing a promo shot of Don Draper astride a 1957 Matchless G3LS, Hawwa had the eminent idea to ride a classic motorbike whilst also wearing his finest suit to raise awareness and capital for prostate cancer research.

We all know that the motorcycling community is a tight-knit group. Endless hours tinkering in the garage, ordering new parts online and chatting with our mates about the quirky little things we’re currently doing to show our passion for the freedom of riding a motorbike.

It’s what bonds us all together. So, it’s no surprise that when Mark proposed the idea, it took hold and grew faster than launching a Kawasaki H2R down a perfectly prepped drag strip.

What started with 3,000 riders across 64 cities in 2012, grew to 56,000 riders across 2,531 cities in 2020, and has seen a total of $31.56m raised throughout that period. The growth has been aided by a couple of key changes to the initial idea. In 2014, Triumph Motorcycles came on board as a global partner and have remained at the centre of the DGR ever since.

DAVID (L) AND CHRIS (R) ARRIVING AT COWDRAY HOUSE

This helped to raise awareness of the event, bring in a wider audience and even attract the attention of a younger demographic – one that’s typically not the vintage bike rider. Though today you’ll see everything from a CBR125-riding, penguin-suit-wearing sophisticated gentleman approaching his seventies to a kilt-wearing young lad riding a Harley.

“In contrast to my elegant and sophisticated modern classic bike, Captain rocked up on his 2018 Triumph Street Triple R.” Another rather important change occurred in 2016, when one of the ride hosts was prematurely lost to suicide. In response, the

DGR began their long-term partnership with the men’s mental health charity Movember.

This partnership continues to help raise awareness and hopes to break down the stigma surrounding male mental health issues.

This is probably one of the bravest and most forward-thinking decisions that could have been made. Men are traditionally brought up to carry themselves in a certain way. It varies from person to person, but taught masculinity is one of strength, to know the answers and to not ask for help. Because asking for help is a sign of weakness or vulnerability. To be vulnerable as a man is not something many are brought up to consider. Yet it’s due to this idea of masculinity that the rate of suicide is 400% higher amongst men than women in the UK. I’ve personally found that the main reason for this is that when things really start getting bad for women, they will ask for help but men resist. The darkness and pain gets bottled up with nowhere to go – and eventually, it gets too much.

For the DGR to partner with Movember and 114,000 riders to join the ride the following year in 2017, it helped to normalise the conversation around male mental health.

The conversation that sometimes things are not okay – and that’s okay. When you need help, it isn’t a sign of being any less of a man.

MARK HAWWA, SITTING ON THE DOCK OF THE BAY, IN TRIUMPH.

With Covid-19 affecting each of us in a different way, it impacted the DGR by delaying the 2020 event, and then eventually reducing the event to a ‘ride solo’. This changed the format from a mass-gathering event to one where each rider would complete their journey alone, instead of in packs, like in previous years.

This ride solo or ride alone is a perfect symbol for how many people have felt since the pandemic started. Relegated to isolation at home, lives on hold, and most of our enjoyable pastimes taken away. For so many men, this has exacerbated their fight with their own mental health, with increased fears of losing jobs, relationship worries and financial concerns. Through the fundraising and ride solo events, the DGR were about to raise $2.7M in 2020.

Finally, in 2021, in the UK, we were able to ride together once more. As is so commonplace, the day started off with bluebird skies in London. Bright but no glare through the visor of my black Hedon helmet. Having prepped the bike the night before, I donned my Belstaff Trialmaster and casual gentleman’s attire put together by Erika at Dappad. I jumped enthusiastically on the Triumph Thruxton RS and blasted from south London

$31.56m raised 56000 riders 2531 cities to our meeting spot, a car park in Hyde Park.

I was meeting my long-term friend, Chris, or Captain as he is informally known. In contrast to my elegant and sophisticated modern classic bike, Captain rocked up on his 2018 Triumph Street Triple R. He has taken all the decals, fairings and colour off, fitted it with

an SC Project exhaust, and drives it like he finds nothing more pleasurable in the world, popping wheelies and jumping through gears on the quick shifter simply to hear the engine note change.

After a quick chat, we jumped on and headed

DAVID AND CHRIS DISCUSS HOW BEST TO LOSE THE CAMERA TEAM

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DAVID TOOLS UP FOR THE RIDE IN HIS BELSTAFF TRIALMASTER

CHRIS POPS THE MOST GENTLEMANLY WHEELIE HYDE PARK HAS EVER SEEN

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KATIE IN OBLIGATORY SUNGOD VANGUARDS

towards Piccadilly to hopefully find a group of other riders. As we meandered through the slow roads of Hyde Park, I found myself looking down at the beautifully crafted aluminium yoke that holds the gold, fully adjustable 43mm upside down big piston forks in place. My eye was then drawn to the brushed aluminium tank strap and Monza style filler cap. All are essential styling pieces that bring the classic café racer look to a modern bike. Upon first glance at the Thruxton RS, you could be easily led to think this is a vintage bike, but take just a tiny step closer and the super sticky Metzler tyres, effective Brembo brakes and brilliant 1200cc parallel-twin engine will all quickly tell you otherwise.

Chris and I were lucky: on our ride out of the park, we were passed by a rather large group of about 30 other bikes, all partaking in the DGR this year. What an epic sight to be surrounded by bikes old and new, men and women, young and old, and even a family of three in a sidecar, all dressed to the nines.

Rolling through the streets of London, down Park Lane and towards Piccadilly Circus was something I had never experienced with such a large group of bikes. The noise from the exhausts was emotive and powerful.

It reminded me of the first year I owned a bike. I would go out riding with my friends, hooning around the Surrey and Berkshire B-roads while cranking through gears on the red line. There’s something special about being in a pack as a rider, it changes the whole experience and makes it far more enjoyable.

Pedestrians would stop in their tracks to take photos and videos of us riding past and, at one point, there may have even been a burnout

by Captain, while all 30 bikes simultaneously revved their engines down Piccadilly. All these engines produce a distinctly different sound from their big single cylinders, v-twins, triples and inline 4s. The moment filled my chest with a certain level of pride and satisfaction to be part of such a great event. I was riding with a bunch of men that I had never spoken to, but we were all bonded by our passion for motorcycles and desire to do good.

After a few hours gently pootling along at 20mph around London’s iconic city streets, we decided it was time to open them up and head out of town. Smashing down the A3, sporadically pulling over to avoid the occasional heavy downpours, it gave us the chance to put the modern details of the Thruxton RS to the test and compare it to the very modern Street Triple. Certainly on paper

and in design, these two are not comparable bikes, but if the goal of the manufacturer is to simply put bums on seats and smiles on faces, then to me it seems like a fair comparison.

The Thruxton is certainly down on power and revs compared to the Street Triple, 103bhp to 116bhp and 8,000rpm to over 12,000rpm, respectively, meaning that I’m changing gear more often. Not that this is a bad thing, though, smashing through gears on the up and blipping the throttle on downshifts is one of the joys of riding.

Once we got off the main road and onto the twisty smaller ones, the smiles started to grow as we both relished the opportunity of throwing these excellent bikes into corners and powering out the other side. For a bike that looks like it’s from the 60s, the Thruxton handles very much like a modern-day marvel should. Almost like The Beatles turning up in 2021, but with modern haircuts, perfectly tailored Tom Ford suits and music that would make a newborn baby smile from ear to ear.

Having owned a Street Triple RS for 3 years, I can tell you that both bikes are a joy to ride, and it will simply come down to personal preference on styling and budget when deciding which to go for. A new Street Triple

Register Now RS will cost you about £11,000 with a couple of options, and the Thruxton RS will set you back around £13,000 before you start making changes.

The main reason for the journey out of town, though, was not to test drive Triumph’s incredible stable of bikes though. It was an opportunity for Chris and I to grab a coffee and have a proper catch up. It’s important now, more than ever, to connect with your close friends and check in once in a while, and ensure you’re making time for each other. So Inspired by the DGR and its charity partner Movember, we found ourselves quite the resplendent spot to have a chinwag.

The 16,500-acre Cowdray Estate is arguably the home of British Polo. This family-owned estate in the heart of the stunning South Downs National Park is steeped in history and heritage. You’ll find one of England’s most important early Tudor houses in addition to their award-winning farm shop and café, and luxury accommodation. Not to mention the 18-hole golf course. Cowdray Park House was built in 1874 and has been the family seat since 1909 when it was bought by Sir Weetman Dickinson Pearson, who became the 1st Viscount Cowdray. It’s hallowed

halls were the perfect location to pull up for afternoon tea and check in with Chris.

Four years ago, Chris called me and told me he was facing some issues. He was reaching out to me to talk about them and told me how he was going to get help. At that moment I was in an emotional conflict. On one hand, I felt ashamed I hadn’t spotted any signs of his struggles; on the other, I felt proud that he was owning his situation and reaching out.

As we both look back on that period from a position of balanced mental health, It was great to have an honest and open chat with Chris to understand more about his recovery process – about how, by simply reaching out and talking to someone about the struggles he was facing, it started a journey that led him out of depression and back into being the amazing father, husband, and friend he is.

Having spoken to Chris and many other men, the common thread is that most believe they need to behave in a certain way to be masculine.

This outdated approach to masculinity doesn’t have an effect when things are going smoothly, but when depression creeps in and drinking turns from a celebration to a coping mechanism, that masculine belief does not help. In these situations, the smart individual

knows they don’t have all the answers. They know that to get the best result in a business you employ the right people. You don’t need to know everything; you just need to know the right person who has the answer. So why don’t we adopt that same mentality when it comes to our own mental health? Mainly because we’ve been taught that asking for help shows weakness. But when every person has these moments of struggle, doesn’t it just make us human? The issue is that you don’t see when it happens to others because men rarely talk about their struggles.

Whilst Chris and I have shared many hours talking about our own mental health struggles to keep the conversation and dialogue open to avert disaster, so many do not. I urge you to seek help and to understand that there are so many who would gladly offer you support.

Whether you ride or not, the DGR has created innumerable connections over the past 10 years. 340,000 riders across 107 countries, raising over $27m and starting countless conversations that have inevitably led to significant changes in many people’s lives.

Being a man isn’t about being strong and silent anymore.

TR

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Highland Charm Words: Peter J Robinson

High atop the Spey Valley in the heart of Aberlour, well hidden from view, you’ll find a grand Victorian mansion, whose family’s as charming as the estate itself. The mansion house was built in 1888 by John F Cumming, grandson to the dynasty that is the Cardhu whisky distillery. It has a history so rich, it’s deservant of a tartan tapestry to adorn its walls. To become the custodian of such a gilded property is, indeed, a labour of tough love. Let alone to take it forward as an ongoing concern. In 2012, having arguably travelled the world, the Murray family began work to bring the period property into the twenty-first century whilst retaining its Victorian charm.

T R AV E L : T H E D O WA N S

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“57’s menu is as you might expect: seasonal, sustainable, sourced locally and proud of it’s Scottish produce”

AARON EDGEWORTH UNLOADING THE FERRARI F8 SPIDER DOCKSIDE AT FINGAL

A

hard left-hander with a tight turn in, followed by a meandering right with an apex that only someone driving ten tenths could find. This is God’s very own country. He’s not made it explicit, of course; it’s not chiseled into rock or signposted in a way that mere mortals would recognise. He’s arguably left us a typically biblical sign, though. It’s 1,748 square miles, has 18,000 disciples, about as many Land Rovers and is home to Jesus’s lesser-known miracle, the Old Military road.

“This, this is amazing, this is just amazing – these

“to collect a number of Mechanics and other industrious people into some centricall spot.” If you’re going to build a town, settlement or city, I see no reason not to name it after yourself. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, no? Aberlour is still flanked by the Walkers shortbread factory and Aberlour distillery, so it seems the grand plan to herd the industrious great and the mechanical good worked out rather well, Charles.

Arriving at 8pm and with dinner at 9pm, there was little time to appreciate the terraced gardens surrounding the property. We parked the F8 Spider next to the idyllic duck pond, admired its chassis from a distance and quickly made our way to reception. Think large candles, silver antlers and

roads,” Aaron harked, as the sun beat down upon us from the heavens. We had made short work of the 161-mile pilgrimage from Edinburgh through the Cairngorms, with little distraction other than the occasional fuel stop. I am not entirely sure if Aaron was working the Ferrari F8 Spider’s V8 harder or me the JBL speakers. God only knows what two 30something southerners look like in a Giallo Tripolo Strato Ferrari with Stranglehold by Ted Nugent blasting at 10dB. I like to think the almighty was smiting each and every speed camera and had willed our crusade in accordance with the prophecy. “Go forth my sons, go forth and spread the good book of all that is mechanised. Blessed is thee who bathes in the benzine, for I am the first and the last”.

sizeable marble fireplaces. “We immediately set about renovating and upgrading the hotel, with the help of Chelsea McLaine of Glasgow,” said Marie Murray. The reception was the first port of call and revealed a beautiful but apparently impractical parquet floor.

We made our way to our rooms to freshen and change for dinner. As you might expect, the 16 rooms are all named after local whiskeys, though none featured a bottle in the room. It could arguably be an expensive guest relations effort.

Though not a deal breaker, we were quickly learning that Scotland’s temporary licensing laws, whilst intended to save lives, were only serving to ensure we accrued a vast selection of whisky

Having witnessed Aaron improving his imaginary lap time for ninety minutes, I decided that I too needed the adrenalin fix. Having made the perfectly gentlemanly agreement to pull over, enjoy the majesty, light a Marlboro and pontificate on the sheer scale of the trip, we switched. Six minutes later, we were on the road into Aberlour in the heart of Speyside. I had perhaps forced shotgun a little late. “You want to drive it in?” suggested Aaron.

“No, I just needed the briefest fix of horsepower, Renton”. So much so that I drove past the hotel in search of a few more miles of tarmac.

Charlestown of Aberlour was founded by the laird, Charles Grant of Wester Elchies, who planned

samples in the Ferrari’s boot.

The hotel’s 16 bespoke en-suite rooms are all well styled in muted tones with typical Scottish tartan flare. ‘Aberlour tartan’ is blue for the Spey, one of Scotland’s finest salmon fishing rivers; green for the bountiful hillsides that feed the black Aberdeen Angus cattle. Gold for the barley that makes the malt whisky and wheat that makes the shortbread.

Purple for the heather and the thistle across the landscape. With less than 15 minutes to change, having left it typically late, I furiously ironed a wellcreased shirt and gathered my faculties. Had it not been over 20 degrees, I might have settled into my roll top bath, glass in hand and never left.

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My word, though, was it tranquil at the Dowans.

There’s a certain sense of deeply embedded calm that comes with staying at a family-run property, it’s a balancing act that Lauren, the Murray’s youngest daughter, has perfected. This coming from a writer who during a previous Ferrari press trip visited the Comte and Comtesse de Vanssay at their Loire Valley chateaux. Now that was real pressure.

“Can I put Kakou the parrot on the roof of the Ferrari for a picture, Peter?”

Sadly not, Comtesse.

Already late for pre-dinner drinks, I hastily met Aaron in the Dowen’s cocktail bar for a refreshing pint from the Speyside Craft Brewery – by this point, I was dehydrated and just needed something to sup. Whilst the cocktail bar is a thoroughly restorative place to sit and while away the hours, the Still would be my likely choice. It has one of the most majestic views I think I might have ever seen in a hotel. A wall of 500-plus single malt whiskies that included a handful from Glenfarclas that I am still yet to try. So close but yet so far, we made our way into the 57 Restaurant, so named for its position exactly on the 57th parallel, and a name given to the restaurant by the Murray’s son and pilot, Sean. The reality of booking a table at a restaurant after 9pm with the bar closing at 10pm means we were the sole remaining diners. To some this might mean a lack of people watching or atmosphere; for me, dinner need only be theatre minus the crowd. The real players are in the kitchen. 57’s menu is as you might expect: seasonal, sustainable, sourced locally and proud of it’s Scottish produce. Rightly so. The duck was a standout dish and, had I the gullet for it, I might have moved onto game from the Ballindalloch

Estate or haggis, neeps and tatties.

and so we eventually made our way to slumber.

After a quick supper, with Aaron and myself keen to see the properties surroundings with the little time we had, the yellow siren in the car park came calling once more. Having finished service, the chef and kitchen team joined us for a considered trouser rub once more. It’s a tough piece of hardware to break from.

The following morning, I arose relatively early for a soak in the bath, something I rarely do, but would have been a missed opportunity. The sun poured through the suite’s windows as I contemplated sinking deeper into a warm slumber. But with my continued hunt for kedgeree in mind, I dragged myself out, dressed and made my way to breakfast.

Again, I had been beaten to the mark by Aaron, who despite sharing a fairly liberal approach to time keeping, always seems to best me. He was seated in the gardens, coffee in hand, menu atop the table diligently, politely, waiting to order. “Eggs Norwegian, coffee, Earl Grey and a glass of orange juice if I may”. Though I might not have had the time to catch the salmon from the river below, this was a close second.

With the light fading and the clock ticking, Lauren ushered us into the Still for a nightcap before closing.

“What are you having?”

“Well there are five hundred to choose from, so I might need more than a minute, Murray.”

Having held a rather unorthodox conference call with the New Zealand Trade & Enterprise board that afternoon, I decided to break with tradition and go for a New Zealand 1987 cask strength.

Touch, pause, enjoy. Afterall, it wasn’t like we weren’t going to get our fill of Scottish whisky at every other opportunity. We even managed to visit the Aberlour distillery down the road. Though closed to anything but pre-booked tours, a yellow Ferrari is a sight rarely seen and a conversation starter past many a locked gate. Despite a fair amount of coaxing and flattery on both our parts, the Still closed promptly at 10pm. We found ourselves in the terraced gardens, finishing our drinks, listening to the sounds of the bountiful river Spey below. Given the Dowan’s location, the glimmers of sunset could still be seen at 11pm and had we not finished our previous bottle, I suspect you might have found us there the following morning. But driving that hard, that far, takes a toll

It’s a testament to the Murray’s hospitality that we didn’t check out until gone midday – which considering we were crossing back over the Cairngorms, speaks volumes. The Dowans will endure in my mind as one of the greatest fly drive destinations. It’s brimming with things to do and see, has an incredibly rich heritage and enough high grade liquor to sink a Russian sub. All of this is warmly delivered by a thoughtful family who clearly love what they do. I fear I might have only really scratched the surface of what the Dowans has on its doorstep, though, so in honour of the Murrays, who are the finest of hosts, I will leave you with the words of Rabbie Burns.

My heart’s in the Highlands, my heart is not here, My heart’s in the Highlands, a-chasing the deer, Chasing the wild-deer, and following the roe, My heart’s in the Highlands, wherever I go.

TR

B E AU T Y : D R T U N C T I RYA K I

Dr. Tunc Tiryaki Last issue, we met Dr Tunc Tiryaki, the world-renowned, board-certified plastic surgeon based at the Cadogan Clinic in Chelsea, London. Award-winning Dr Tiryaki has gained an enviable reputation among peers and patients as one of the world’s most pre-eminent surgeons and the go-to consultant for facial cosmetic and flawless reconstructive work. Dr Tiryaki’s pioneering work is at the forefront of aesthetic research – he is the co-author of the ‘Stem Cell Therapies’ chapter of a major twovolume textbook, as well as the winner of the ‘Best Electronic Paper Award’ at the 2008 World Congress of the Aesthetic Surgery Society in Melbourne for his paper ‘Shuttle Lifting of the Face’. Combining cutting-edge techniques with unrivalled knowledge, there is little wonder why Dr Tiryaki was named one of the UK’s best facelift surgeons in 2020 by Tatler Magazine.

Words: John Sterling

Dr Tiryaki is a global pioneer in the field of mini-facelifts and with his introduction of innovative techniques involving stem cells, comes a quicker recovery time, a shorter procedure and most importantly, natural-looking results.

This revolutionary technique differs from a ‘traditional’ facelift, since it restores muscles to their original position then removes excess skin as opposed to simply lifting and tightening the skin.

This minimally invasive procedure can reverse the signs of ageing by up to fifteen years. During the consultation, Dr Tiryaki uses his discerning eye to evaluate the patient’s face and chooses an appropriate method of the facelift, whether it is tissue replacement or a stem cell mini-lift.

True to his nature, Dr Tiryaki chooses the least intrusive and least aggressive approach whether the patient has advanced facial ageing or still in the early stages. Combining his professional skill as a plastic surgeon and unrivalled knowledge in stem cell therapy, Dr Tiryaki pioneers minimally

invasive cosmetic procedures that are guaranteed to restore a youthful, healthier complexion. With a specialist interest in mini-facelifts, he holds patents for his incredible innovative techniques, achieving exceptionally natural results.

Here are some of Dr Tiryaki’s most requested treatments.

STEM CELL MINI-LIFT A stem cell mini-lift is a prime option for people in their mid-40s or over, who do not wish to use fillers yet still desire the natural-looking and long-lasting facial rejuvenation look. Dr Tiryaki’s innovative yet effective take on stem cell mini-lift will help turn back the clock whilst maintaining a refreshed natural look.

The stem cell mini-lift usually takes between one and two hours and does not require an overnight

stay in the clinic unless Dr Tiryaki considers it to be the best solution for a speedy recovery.

Normal daily activities can be resumed within 7 to 10 days with little to no post-operative pain.

During the procedure, short incisions are made to restore sub-dermal tissue and muscle to their original place to give the skin a tighter and younger appearance. Due to the precise nature of the small incisions, post-operative scars are minimal and are hidden within creases behind the ear and in the hairlines.

FACELIFT Being a pioneer in facial rejuvenation and surgery, Dr Tiryaki has dedicated much of his career to a wide range of treatments from aesthetic procedures such as mini and micro facelifts to regenerative cell treatments to treating children with cleft lip and palate in war-torn countries. Being a Board-certified consultant

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plastic surgeon, Dr Tiryaki can make his patients look at least five years younger with a bespoke yet minimally invasive procedure that revitalises the face and boosts confidence in just 30 minutes. His micro-facelift is a modern procedure developed to give natural-looking results in a shortened surgery time due to the use of sedation over general anaesthetic. By gathering and lifting internal tissue behind the ears, Dr Tiryaki can reverse the signs of sagging in people ideally between 35 and 50. To boost volume in the cheeks and obtain long-term and highly satisfactory results, Dr Tiryaki recommends combining the procedure with fat injections perfect for those who are experiencing the early signs of ageing. Due to the simplicity of the technique, a full recovery is expected within a week but if the patient should change their mind, Dr Tiryaki has designed this procedure, so it is fully reversible.

One of Dr Tiryaki’s most in-demand procedures is the 3D facelift especially when part of a bespoke plan specifically designed by Dr Tiryaki, incorporating subtle treatments such as blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery) or a neck lift, replenishing the face with a youthful glow and full volume. Dr Tiryaki’s work is well-known for the carefully concealed scars, lack of postoperational pain and quick recovery time. With bandages being removed after two weeks to allow for face and hair washing, patients can expect to look ten years younger after only two weeks! Dr Tiryaki’s keen eye for detail allows his patients to debut their stunning yet natural new look in no time!

FAT GRAFTING The important distinction to understand about facial ageing is that it is not because of deepening wrinkles, it is due to a loss of skin fullness and fat pads melting over time. Fat injection, otherwise known as fat grafting, is a simple yet effective procedure to naturally restore tissue that has been taken away by time. Fat grafting is a natural alternative to fillers which have the potential of unpleasant side effects and lasts longer keeping your face looking full.

During the consultation, Dr Tiryaki ensures that the patient is well informed and takes the utmost care in understanding their expectations and explaining the techniques to achieve the desired

result.

There are two main methods of fat grafting – conventional fat injection and micro-fat transplantation. Conventionally, fat is injected without being processed resulting in an 80% dissolve rate thus being ideal for treating significant volume loss. The Micro Fat Transplantation involves processing the extracted fat then injecting it into the facial tissue gradually using different grades of fat according to the depth in the tissue with the thickest being at the bone and thinnest at the skin. Dr Tiryaki uses millifat, micro fat, nano

“Combining his professional skill as a plastic surgeon and unrivalled knowledge in stem cell therapy, Dr Tiryaki pioneers minimally invasive cosmetic procedures” fat and stem cell-enriched fat (SVF) under the personal requirements of each patient.

SVF is a fascinating and highly effective form of fat injection since it is 500 – 1000 times more regenerative than normal fat tissue thus speeding up the firming process. Not only does this method have a lower dissolution rate, but it also minimises swelling and takes less than 30 minutes. Fat Grafting is expertly recommended for patients in their 30s and 40s who have experienced a loss of volume in their face or for younger individuals who are seeking ideal facial proportions.

STEM CELL MINIMAL INVASIVE The innovative use of stem cells in treatment uses the power of your own cells to rejuvenate

your body thus reducing the risk of rejection or adverse reactions. Using your own stem cells is the healthiest and most natural way to delay and repair the damage of ageing, replenish deep tissue volume, and help skin regain a youthful complexion. After months of lockdown staring at reflections on a computer screen, facial imperfections have never felt so prominent.

Regenerative surgery is at the cutting-edge of modern medicine since the stem cells begin the healing process from the bone to the skin thus restoring your tissue and complexion at all depths. During the consultation, Dr Tiryaki works in detail in conjunction with the patient in deciding where the fat can be harvested from depending on the patient’s personal preferences and will then advise where they will benefit most on the face.

During the procedure, mini-liposuction is used to remove the fat from the agreed-upon region, the stem cells are extracted and then transferred to the face. Since only a small amount of fat is required, it will not cause an unattractive or major change to the body shape. The process only takes one –two hours with a recovery period of a few days before ordinary life can start back up again. However, the benefits of the treatment may take three–six months to fully emerge whilst the stem cells go through the renewal process but having a natural and firmer look will be instantaneous! This treatment is perfect for people seeking a life-long, self-renewing process of facial rejuvenation. It also holds great benefits for patients who have suffered from burn and trauma scars or have soft tissue defects.

NON-SURGICAL RHINOPLASTY / LIQUID RHINOPLASTY The nose is one the most prominent features of a face and insecurities surrounding the shape or central placement on the face can cause low self-esteem or a lack of confidence. Dr Tiryaki understands the difficulty many people feel so has made the main aim of his non-surgical rhinoplasty treatment to modify the shape of the nose to perfectly complement the face to achieve harmony and balance. Using advanced medical technology, Dr Tiryaki uses non-surgical fillers to smooth out bumps for patients not interested in the permanence of plastic surgery.

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During the consultation, Dr Tiryaki uses 3D imagery to illustrate what the result will be, so the patient is fully informed, pre-procedure.

During this quick procedure, Dr Tiryaki applies a topical anaesthetic to the injection site to ensure no pain can be felt. He then injects an appropriate amount of filler, such as hyaluronic acid beneath the skin to smooth out the nasal bumps. Since this is a non-surgical procedure, the experience should only last 5-10 minutes, does not require any dressings and the patient can return to normal life upon leaving the clinic.

Although this treatment does not leave any facial scars, some patients may have minor short-term bruising, but this disappears after a few days and can be easily concealed with make-up. The results are subtle, but this is perfect for fixing very minor nasal imperfections and can be redone after 6 to 18 months. It is important to note that Dr Tiryaki recommends avoiding using blood thinners leading up to the treatment as a precautionary measure. Liquid Rhinoplasty is

an excellent option for those who wish to modify the shape of their nose but are not keen on the permanence of plastic surgery or are nervous about going under the knife. Dr Tiryaki’s worry-free solution can help to expertly achieve the symmetry desired.

INCREASE OVER TWO YEARS Over the past two years, Dr Tiryaki has seen an increase in demand in people wishing to dissolve their unwanted fillers to achieve a more natural look or rectify issues from previous treatments at other clinics. Social media influencers have been leading the charge by posting about their return from their Botox-filled “Instagram faces”.

As trends change and the fashion for more natural-looking skin and figure becomes more prominent in society, Dr Tiryaki understands that every face is unique so ensures to never change the natural characteristics of his patients.

One particular procedure that has shot up in popularity is Stem Cell Minimal Invasive Facial Rejuvenation. Using stem cells in facial rejuvenation is an emerging idea quickly gaining traction due to its effective replenishing and repairing properties giving the skin a younger and firmer natural glow.

After almost two years of sitting behind desks at home staring at reflections in computer screens, many people have begun to feel dissatisfied with their look so have turned to cosmetic surgery to achieve natural-looking yet satisfying results.

Dr Tiryaki has seen a significant increase in the number of mini lifts, neck lifts, tummy tucks and breast reductions being performed over the last two years. Whilst this could be down to changing fashion trends, it has the bonus of boosting someone’s self-esteem and confidence – an invaluable asset to dust off the lockdown anxieties.

For further details visit: www.tunctiryaki.co.uk

TR

DUNHILL DESIRE BLACK

Perfume does something very special to the psyche. It provides an almost instantaneous confidence boost with one effortless spritz.

It’s the final adornment before an evening well-lived. Finding a signature scent amongst the abundance of musky, floral, citrus or even woodsy notes is a time-honoured tradition amongst the many perfume counters and white-glove perfumeries across Europe.

We’ve teamed up with fabulous Fragrance Direct to talk about some dresser staples and new contenders for your signature scent.

Words: The Editors

STYLE : SCENTS OF STYLE

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lie Saab has his bonafides in order. Admitted into the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, Saab began designing at the tender age of 9 in his family home. The largely self-taught Lebanese designer released his first collection in 1982 in war-torn Beirut to critical acclaim. If an Haute Couture dress is a celebration of femininity, the Elie Saab Le Parfum eau de parfum takes on this role in the realm of fragrance. Its distinct scent is built on notes of orange blossom, jasmine, and a moreish honey rose and patchouli.

Top notes: Orange Blossom. Middle notes: Jasmine absolute, Patchouli heart. Base notes: Cedar accord, Honey Rose.

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alentino’s credentials are well established in the history books of perfumery, with Classique for women released in 1978 and Vendetta in 1991. Over the many decades since founding the house of Valentino on Via Condotti in Rome in 1960, Valentino has released a string of fragrances, the most recent being Born in Roma Donna. The bottle is adorned with the now-iconic Valentino stud, inspired

by Roma architecture and arguably the signature of Valentino Couture.

Top notes: Black Currant, Pink Pepper and Bergamot. Middle notes: Jasmine Sambac, Jasmine and Jasmine Tea. Base notes: Bourbon Vanilla, Cashmeran and Guaiac Wood.

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erhaps worth adding to the perfume cabinet or dresser purely for the name. The next time someone asks you what you’re wearing, you’ll need to warm up for the linguistic challenge of pronunciation alone.

Born in Hiroshima in 1938, Issey Miyake’s fragrance range is distinctive and instantly recognisable. Each year Miyake releases a limited-time fragrance created by a guest perfumer. L’Eau d’issey Pure Nectar is by Dominique Ropion and Fanny Bal – an aquatic floral interpretation of the original.

Top notes: Honey pear.

Middle notes: Sweet rose.

Base notes: Creamy sandalwood.

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ow in its twentieth year of production, Light Blue eau de toilette is as synonymous with the Italian fashion house as any of their couture creations. Almost 30 years ago, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana released their first fragrance, simply entitled Dolce & Gabbana. You’ll struggle to find any well-heeled man or woman who doesn’t recognise it. Created by Jean-Pierre Mary and Martine Pallix, it’s an instantly recognisable aroma. So, how did the follow-up fare all those years ago? Designed to evoke the sensuality of the Mediterranean lifestyle, D&G Light Blue has signature dry down of lustrous amber woods and precious musks.

Top notes: Sicilian Citron, Bluebell, Granny Smith Apple. Middle notes: Jasmine, Bamboo, White Rose.

Base notes: Cedarwood, Amber, Musk.

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f you’ve never considered a Dunhill fragrance, you’re very late to this scent soiree. Alfred Dunhill’s lineage should precede him. Dunhill inherited his father’s saddlery business and began to launch the finest leather goods, writing implements, lighters, clothing and of course fragrances. Dunhill’s Desire Black is an Amber Fougere fragrance for men. Launched in 2014 it has outlasted even the most frenetic of consumer palettes. Desire Black is a captivating scent unlike anything in the fragrance market for 2021.

Top notes: Bergamot, Black Pepper and Grapefruit. Middle notes: Cypress, Saffron and Rose.

Base notes: Vetiver, Olibanum and Amber.

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n 2011, the Hamburg brand launched its first fragrance from behind a towering mountain of heritage with Olivier Pescheux. As you might expect from a company whose passion for excellence saw them name their signature writing implement, Meisterstück or Masterpiece, their first foray into the fragrance market was simply named ‘Legend’. Founded in 1908 The Simplo Filler Pen Co, as it was originally named, is now synonymous with fountain pens, leather goods and watchmaking.

2020 saw the release of a new fragrance: Explorer. A little on the money, sure, but as we were such fans of the brand’s previous fragrance, Explorer is a similarly soigné affair.

Top notes: Bergamot, Pomarose, Sage. Middle notes: Vetiver, Leather, Sandalwood. Base notes: Patchouli, Ambrofix, Akigalawood

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The House Call

Words: Concierge Medical

Does the future of private primary health care lie in the past?

Remember when you knew who your family doctor was and when nothing was too much trouble for them? You could always get a same-day appointment and house calls were commonplace?

Home visits are claimed to be a central element of primary care. So why is that the frequency with which home visits are made is declining in the UK?

H E A LT H : C O N C I E R G E M E D I C A L

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he pandemic had a catastrophic impact on the number of face-toface consultations within surgeries and house calls being made, yet even before Covid-19, we were seeing a decline in the number of home visits. The investment money in private general practice has, over the last 10 years, been pumped into technology to enable remote consultations, focusing on providing patients with immediate access to a (any) doctor via an app. Now it seems NHS GPs are also focusing more and more on remote consultations by video or phone; the pandemic has accelerated a process that had already started.

Back in 2013, two doctors, Dr Karl Braine and Dr Simon Gillson, medical directors and founders of the UK’s first private concierge medicine practice, Concierge Medical, had a vision: the future of primary care, the option of a private, purely home visiting GP practice, combining modern medicine with traditional values. Their mission, simply, to provide patients with the best private medical care available in the UK. Dr Braine and Dr Gillson met whilst working together at the Ambulance Service as GPs, specialising in pre-hospital medicine, and both understood and appreciated the value of the traditional home visit experience. They sought to combine this with the proven major health benefits stemming from continuity of care offered by the same family doctor.

The home consultation is at the heart of their general practice and is where primary care is most effective as regular visits can improve wellbeing, relieve anxiety and help achieve an early diagnosis. Timely visits can often prevent health issues from escalating and becoming critical.

In addition to the focus on home visits, there are several other beneficial innovations in the way that Concierge Medical operates. Firstly, the business is a membership model, where ‘members’ register with the practice on an all-inclusive monthly subscription, which covers unlimited access to home visits, 24/7 advice and flexible consultations with their doctor, meaning patients are not penalised with hefty invoices when they are unwell and require more attention.

Alleviating the frustration of accessing medical services, the practice assigns a doctor to each patient to assure continuity of care. On joining, members enjoy the convenience of a house call in the comfort and privacy of their own home for introductions without time restrictions to discuss their health. To put this in perspective, Concierge Medical doctors have 90% fewer patients than your average GP, having the luxury of time to visit and be highly responsive to member needs.

Concierge Medical doctors diarise their own appointments directly with their patients, allowing plenty of time to listen to concerns, discuss and advise, enabling the building of an honest and trusted ongoing doctor-patient relationship.

“A picture paints a thousand words and insight can be gained on a patient’s support network, living conditions, welfare, lifestyle and if coping independently.”

Concierge doctors take accountability, offering an independent, unbiased opinion and options with a personal and supportive approach.

It’s not just about the flexibility and convenience; much can be learnt on a home visit. A picture paints a thousand words and insight can be gained on a patient’s support network, living conditions, welfare, lifestyle and if coping independently. Home visits allow a better understanding of interventions, for example, when observing how mobile or pain-free the patient is at home. Similarly, adherence to taking medication safely can often be better assessed on a home visit – for example, by the presence of numerous unopened or far-too-quickly-finished packets of tablets.

The Cotswolds-based practice covers a largely rural area. Few members live within a 20-minute walk of a GP surgery. Longer distances to GPs mean that rural residents can experience ‘distance decay’, where service use decreases in line with distance from health facilities, with an obvious impact on untreated conditions.

Concierge members value the home visiting service for varying reasons. For some, it’s simply a preference for private healthcare, appreciating the discreet, exclusive service. For others, the convenience and flexibility to fit appointments around busy lives with business and family commitments. Maybe they physically can’t travel, have no local family and are reassured that there is someone keeping an eye out for any decline in health, fragility, or perhaps mental health. And then there are those home visits, which are requested due to acute illness which can be anything from gastroenteritis, influenza, pneumonia, or of course, most recently, Covid-19.

Whatever the reason, the practice’s focus is on reaching an accurate diagnosis and agreeing and starting an effective treatment plan as quickly as possible. Home visits, including on-site diagnostics, are an essential component supporting this focus.

The benefits seem endless, including that come snow, rain, or in a rare summer heatwave, the doctor will visit, saving members the stress of travelling, parking and sitting in a busy waiting room full of sick people.

The doctors also visit members in nursing homes, retirement villages, or hospitals, enabling them to advocate for their health needs and wishes.

Often with established rapport with key staff and nurses, admission rights and negotiated member discounts, the doctors are able to utilise these relationships with nursing homes for rehabilitation or to avoid hospital admissions for less serious illness where a short spell on a saline drip and good attentive nursing is the only requirement.

Dr Braine explains, “It may start with the home visit, but it certainly doesn’t end there. Our service is about continuity and taking ownership and accountability of patient care. The beauty of an independent practice is that we have the freedom to bespoke our service for patients. We have, over the years, adapted the service to meet patient needs and have increased our service

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offering. Services include, travel health, tests and investigations, referrals, video and remote advice when members are overseas, second opinions, vaccines, prescriptions, physiotherapy and nursing services at home. In 2020, the addition of Covid-19 testing was an unplanned but essential service addition for our members. We also launched the Concierge Medical Health Plan, providing our members access to members-only health insurance to complement our private GP services.

We have recently employed clinical health care assistants to carry out joint home visits with doctors, and independently between doctor visits to provide patients with a coordinated consistent care service. This also offers a compassionate service to address social isolation among some patients who perhaps may live outside of the nearest village in very rural areas or farms.

Sometimes, popping in for a cup of tea and a reassuring chat really is the best medicine.

We can offer personalised packages of medical care, depending on individual situations and requirements. This includes hospital discharge, aiding the transition home after periods of illness, which can sometimes be daunting for families.

We manage the medical complications, deal with any medication or pain issues, liaise with other agencies, and can assist in the arrangement of extra support at home. We also provide a ‘hospital at home’ service, in those scenarios when avoiding

unnecessary hospitalisation can safely be achieved with a few days of intensive treatments, including intravenous fluids and antibiotics.

We provide palliative care at home; overseeing any medical support required, working with existing teams and palliative care consultants to offer the medical assistance and support needed.

Importantly for the location we cover, with an international demographic residing in the Cotswolds for work purposes. We have created an international membership package working with many major international insurers, including BUPA International, Cigna Global and AXA, whereby they can utilise our services through their insurer.

For specialist referrals, we have the advantage of being able to find the best consultants for a particular problem, or as the patient prefers, access to specialists able to offer urgent care, perhaps a London based expert consultant or if appropriate NHS care, we can make all these arrangements for members, helping and guiding the decision-making process with them.”

Dr Simon Gillson recalls that, “More by chance, the Cotswolds was the perfect place to start up our practice, as the service flexibility and model suits the rural and ageing community and the benefits of the service make a real and valued difference to our patients.

The pandemic, to all intents and purposes, could have eradicated our business if we had not continued to safely see and care for our patients throughout.

It has been hard work with many learning curves, but it pays off with the amazing feedback, loyalty, and appreciation. We are a highly regulated profession, registered with both UKAS, the national accreditation body which assess organisations that provide laboratory and diagnostic testing services and with the Care Quality Commission, the body that regulates health and social care in England. We are very proud to have received a ‘flawless’ inspection report.

Now a multi-award winning practice, we’ve been voted ‘Best Private UK Primary Care Practice’ at The LaingBuisson Awards, have won WhatClinic’s ‘Patient Services’ award every year since 2016, were the West Midlands regional winner of the FSB and Worldpay UK High Growth Business Awards 2020 and also the West Midland Professional Service Business of the Year in the Amazon-sponsored Rural Business Awards.

Whilst the investment money seems to continue to flow into medical technology apps to enable remote video and phone consultations, nothing can replace the value of the traditional home visit by your own doctor.”

For further details visit: www.conciergemedical.co.uk or call 01451 600900

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Archie Brooksbank Photographer, Director and creative auteur. From shooting campaigns with Jo Malone in Nambia to Directing Cars That Rock with AC/DC’s Brian Johnson, Brooksbank has always followed the road less travelled.

Photography: Archie Brooksbank

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I N T E RV I E W : TA I L H A I L

in profile

On October 7 1963, Bill Lear’s Prototype Learjet 23 N801L took off from Wichita, Kansas and soared into the sky.

It was powered by two General Electric CJ610-4 turbojet engines and is widely regarded as the birth of civilian private jet flight. Modelled on a Swiss fighter aircraft, Lear’s prototype allowed up to eight people to travel in comparative luxury.

Once shorthand for luxury private jet travel, 3,000 have been built since the first Learjet 23 made its first flight.

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In 1990, Bombardier acquired the Learjet company, and in February 2021, the announcement came that it would discontinue the model to focus on its Global and Challenger series. Yes, times they are a-changing.

Less than half the average jet market is currently available with 1,130 private jets currently for sale. That’s 5% of the globally available fleet. Add to this the fact that the number of first time buyers has doubled in the last year and you’ve effectively got a perfect storm. So, what now, chopper in? Dare we say, left into first class? James Moon is the founder and chief executive officer at TailHail, an aviation tech firm, which aims to widen access to the private charter market through an innovative membership scheme.

Can you tell us a little about the TailHail Team?

TailHail is made up of aviation, business, technology and financial professionals from across the United Kingdom. I have recently landed a truly fantastic angel investor and I view her more of a co-founder as she brings so much to the business and is further strengthening the business massively. It is great people that will make TailHail succeed and it is the calibre of the people involved in TailHail that will allow us to reach new heights as we progress.

When did discussions start about launching TailHail?

In 2019, I spent some time in the US, advising a large established charter operator. The light-bulb moment for TailHail was when I saw how backward and outdated the process of booking a private jet was, flight quotes and aircraft information was sent via email and the whole process took too long. With the technology available to us in this day and age, I wanted to utilise technology with the aim of making flying privately more accessible, affordable and sustainable for all. In 2020, just before lockdown, I managed to secure an initial investment in TailHail to get version one of the platform off the ground – pardon the pun.

The market for jet travel is nearly 2 million people and businesses. How are

TailHail intending to take a sizeable market share over the competition?

By offering the best value flight and membership experience compared to that of our competitors. Our competitors have substantial overheads – we don’t. We’re going to operate leaner and meaner which will allow us to create a substantial market share for TailHail, many in this sector talk a good game and never deliver to their clients - with TailHail we have seen those mistakes that our competitors have made and we are going to use that to our advantage.

“In 2019, I spent some time in the US, advising a large established charter operator. The lightbulb moment for TailHail was when I saw how backward and outdated the process of booking a private jet was.”

Given you started trading in February 2020, the business has arguably had to overcome a significant series of hurdles.

How has this strengthened the brand’s operation procedure moving forward?

If, as a startup, we can survive and overcome the impact of Covid on the aviation sector, going forward everything else will be easy. Covid, whilst initially stopped travel overnight, will in the long term increase the overall market size, and at the same time accelerate the move to flying privately. Personally, I think people will remain germaphobic for a long time, wanting to avoid the large crowds at airports or on airlines,

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and we’ll be able to capitalise on that.

Can we talk a little about the membership tiers?

TailHail has four membership options, all designed to cater for different demographics and flight requirements. We have created four, to really make flying privately more accessible, whilst at the same time reducing the financial barrier often associated with flying privately.

We have memberships designed for individuals, couples, families and businesses and without sounding biased our memberships are quite impressive and probably explains why we have members across the globe already.

It’s been suggested that some legs could be offered for as little as £300. What are the current pricing brackets for flights to the South of France and the Swiss Alps for instance?

Simple answer – the more passengers, the cheaper the flight per passenger. I had a stag do looking to go to Germany, 60 of them booked a VIP configured airliner. The flight came in cheaper than Easyjet, plus they got meals and champagne on board and flew on their schedules. However, for flights to the South of France or a weekend away in Scotland, you could fly privately for a very good price.

If one of our readers were looking to join the platform as a passenger or to list their aircraft, what’s the process?

In a few weeks’ time, our app will be available for download, which will allow The Review’s

readers to easily sign up as a TailHail member – in the meantime, you can visit our website and become a member that way. Whilst we are a technology company at heart, each member does receive a dedicated private aviation advisor who can handle their flight requests and advise on any travel requirements they might have which operates away from the technology.

Farnborough Airport announced plans to offer SAF to help reduce emissions from July 2021. Will TailHail be using the service and how is the company approaching the issue of sustainability?

Sustainability is at the heart of everything we do, although aviation is responsible for 2% of global carbon emissions and flying privately makes up just 2% of that 2%. We want to become the market leader for sustainability, using our technology to make flying privately more efficient and environmentally friendly.

Our members can share flights with other members which reduces the flight cost whilst at the same time reducing the number of aircraft flying to the same destination. Our members can choose those aircraft that are powered by SAFs as well as the most fuel efficient – plus, we will be rolling out additional technology features and functionality which will further help us become the market leader for sustainability.

Do you see a seismic shift approaching with regards to private air travel versus commercial airlines?

Absolutely, Covid has changed everything and I would say it is going to make flying private more normal and accepted worldwide. There is

so much pent up demand for flying that exists worldwide. With airlines having cut back routes and long-haul travel not predicted to return to pre-Covid levels until 2024 at the earliest, this will allow private air travel to really showcase its benefits on individuals, families and businesses worldwide. People will want to fly direct more and avoid the hubs or transfers at airports.

When flying private, you can access smaller, more direct airports that often many of the airlines do not fly to – this is why people will be flocking to fly private, as it is simple, hassle free and quick to transit the airport on arrival or before departure.

How many active members does the platform currently have?

We pride ourselves on not disclosing our exact membership numbers. However, I can tell you that we want to have a minimum of 20,000 members within 5 years, which is a worse case figure. Personally, I would like us to have over 100,000 members worldwide, which I am confident that we will achieve given what we have planned and how we differ from our competition.

You’re boarding a flight in 60 minutes, what’s your destination?

Naples, Florida. I go each year – well used to! – and it is by far my favourite destination.

It’s tucked away in the south west of Florida, a real hidden gem. The beaches are impressive and the beachfront houses worth up to $100m – certainly nice to look at, and at the same time inspiring as a young entrepreneur.

For further details please visit: tailhail.com

Cycling for

Soup Words: Phoebe Holman

Alvaro De La Camera, a cyclist, an endurance. Some people have that extra something which allows them to live life as an elite athlete. Taking on mountains deep in continental Europe. Navigating coastal roads at hyper speed. Somewhere in the middle, though, are the weekend warriors and fitness fanatics: the professional amateurs who squeeze in amazing feats between their 9-to-5s, in the hours that no human really wants to face their alarm clock.

I N T E RV I E W : A LVA R O D E L A C A M E R A

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Cycling 4 Soup was born out of this athletic no man’s land, the brain-child of Alvaro De La Camara, amateur triathlete and cyclist, and Michael Drummond, commercial photographer.

The collaborators roused interest posting short videos and teaser content on social media, hinting at what would become Batch 1. The story of Alvaro’s swift departure from the-lessthan-tropical concrete mecca of Croydon, UK, through to the somewhat more sunny city of Cadiz, Spain. This 2500km journey would see Alvaro battle through headwinds, fight torrential rain and grind up mountains as he meandered through France and Spain, while the third team member – editor and director Craig Bilham – helped to document and create the heartwarming and inspiring piece that premiered just as the world started to close its doors to such delights.

Following on from this challenge, the team have documented Alvaro on his 24-hour cycling effort from Edinburgh to London, and now they are setting their sights on smashing a world record for the fastest time to cycle the iconic Route 66 – a feat yet to be achieved.

With an incredible story around its evolution and an unlikely link to endurance sport history, the road has almost 4000km of reasons to take this challenge head on, pedal stroke by pedal stroke.

For Alvaro, it wasn’t just about the opportunity to set a world record and overcome a personal challenge, but engage with communities in the heart of America and connect with avid cyclists along the way, helping to open people’s eyes to what’s possible on two wheels, as an enabler of good health of both body and mind.

What is your first memory of riding a bike?

The day I learnt how to ride without stabilisers.

My brother and his mate were helping me out, they were pushing me along the road fast and I was loving it. At one point they stopped pushing and the momentum just kept me going. I looked back, realised they were not there anymore and crashed. I remember standing up again and screaming for more.

What is it about road cycling that moves you to compete so intensively?

I love how it makes me feel. Every time I’m about to go on a ride, the excitement is always the same – since I was a little kid. It’s like the rest of the world and all the problems shut down and everything turns brighter. It makes things look better and definitely puts a big smile on my face.

When did you discover ultra-endurance races?

4 years ago I completed my first olympic triathlon. Since then I haven’t stopped pushing

“4 years ago I completed my first olympic triathlon.

Since then I haven’t stopped pushing the boundaries of what I can do.” the boundaries of what I can do. I have competed in several ironman races, triathlons and other ultra-distance cycling events, but I prefer to create my own challenges, as I think when it comes from the heart, passion follows and it’s more enjoyable.

How have your friends and family reacted to your challenges?

I get all sorts of reactions. Most of my family prefer to get little updates through the process – they don’t want to know if I suffer or not.

On the contrary, my sister and fiancee love to know every single detail of it. I feel lucky for all the support I receive from my family, especially from my fiancee, who always believes in me and

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encourages every stupid idea I come up with.

World Record attempt consist of ?

How was Cycling 4 Soup born?

It is the quest to set an incredible world record on the world’s most famous road. We will be covering the full distance of Route 66 (3,940km) by bicycle in the space of 10 days.

It started as a ride from my home in London to my parents in the south of Spain. Then the soup became more of a metaphor for a reason to get out and do that thing you always wanted to do.

Now I think it’s more of an ethos, trying to show what we, as humans, are capable of in every field. There is a tangible link between soup and endurance sport, too, I guess – in that you can’t go all out with your effort. Rather, it’s better to go steady. Much like soup, you never boil, always simmer.

Why Route 66?

After checking the full distance and that nobody had ever tried to cover it as fast as possible, that’s when the whole concept of the project sparked in my head. The excitement grew and grew from there.

What does the Cycling4soup Route 66

This is a huge distance everyday. Talk us through your weekly training schedule.

spectrum things can be rough, from injuries, weather which seemingly has a vendetta against you finishing, and the mental strain of pushing on past exhaustion.

All these moments are captured yet balanced out by the amazing and wholesome interactions with the people we meet along the way. People we’ve come to coin as the ‘Soupporters’

I wouldn’t necessarily call it a schedule, as I really enjoy doing every single bit of it. But yeah, on top of my day job, I normally put about 20 to 30 hours a week training. This includes cycling, running, swimming and conditioning. It varies every week, but my coach knows me well and keeps it entertaining and enjoyable – which doesn’t mean easy!

Who or what inspires you?

How will you be documenting this attempt?

What is your favourite soup?

First and foremost: honestly. From working on these kinds of films and challenges previously, there are moments at each end of the emotional

I would say the people around me are the ones who inspire me the most. Seeing my loved ones achieving things, regardless if it’s sport-related or not, lights something inside me that just makes me want to get out and try new and different things myself.

Definitely the creamy courgette soup my mum makes – it’s my all time favourite.

To support the team in making cycling history or to sponsor their efforts in future, contact cycling4soup@gmail.com.

And visit www.cycling4soup.com to see more of their excellent work.

W

Dr John Quinn i experience in focus on anti-a one of the m industry. In ad he has prev company tha

Established in 2006, Quinn Clinics is Bristol’s only independent doctor-led skin clinic registered with the CQC. Dr Quinn uses a variety of modalities in his practice, including IPL, fractional radio frequency and CO2, bipolar radio frequency and high intensity focused ultrasound. His treatments include the full range of anti-ageing, cosmetic and medical skin procedures, tackling everything from sun damage and wrinkles to hyperpigmentation, thread veins or excessive sweating.

Is tech the way forward for skincare?

Skin care devices are bigger business than ever, with figures released this month showing that skin care device sales are to grow at 15% CAGR, as per a study of Future Market Insights (FMI). Technological advancements as well as increased demand brought on in part by the pandemic have driven this growth. With a particular focus on antiageing from within, I’ve become one of the most recognised and respected profiles within the medical aesthetics industry and now have clinics in Harvey Nichols as well as running the first GP owned and led CQC registered, medical, cosmetic clinic in the south west of the UK. Whilst I very much believe that you

don’t need any treatment at all, I use a variety of modalities in the practice, including IPL, fractional radio frequency and CO2, bipolar radio frequency and micro-focused ultrasound to tackle everything from sun damage and wrinkles to hyperpigmentation, thread veins or excessive sweating.

How does 3D camera technology help treat skincare consultations?

Hi-tech 3D cameras are used in many skincare consultations – where relevant – scanning the face in three-dimensional detail. This technology enables the doctor

BEAUTY : DR QUINN

Words: Florean Smout

is a leading cosmetic doctor with over sixteen years’ the medical aesthetics industry. With a particular ageing from within, Dr Quinn has quickly become most recognised and respected profiles within his ddition to cosmetic and medical skincare treatments, viously been a national trainer for Allergan, the at manufactures top brand anti-wrinkle injections and facial filler products.

and patient to see the whole face and neck in precise detail from every angle. Use of the 3D camera allows treatment to be very precisely targeted in terms of where dermal filler will be most of value to lift and rejuvenate the skin. Where treatment has taken place, 3-dimensional before and after photographs record your results.

What technology would you recommend for skin tightening?

The Sublime treatment uses state-of-the art technology to combine infrared light and bi-polar radio frequency energies. It precisely

heats the dermal tissue, stimulating collagen production within the target treatment area. This works within the deep dermal layer of the skin, using radiofrequency (RF) energy that heats the skin and beneath, in a controlled way, to rejuvenate the face and neck. It works by stimulating new collagen growth for firmer, smoother, more elastic and youthful skin. We have multiple RF devices in my practice. Sublime is one of our favorites, as it is effective but gentle, with no downtime.

A perfect lunchtime lift, it also blends well with other treatments like Hydrafacial

recommend for improving skin texture and issues such as pigmentation and acne scarring?

What technology would you

How would you recommend reducing

The Sublative is fractionated bi-polar radio frequency technology which applies heat energy into the upper dermis. It boosts collagen and elastin for more youthful skin texture. It’s highly effective for reducing mild to moderate wrinkles and skin pigmentation issues, as well as acne scarring.

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the symptoms of rosacea?

IPL stands for ‘intense pulsed light’ and it is another example of technology being used to create non-surgical skin treatments. IPL uses light energy to target a certain colour in your skin. When the skin is heated the body gets rid of the unwanted cells. Unlike lasers, an IPL device sends out more than one wavelength of pulsating light and can treat a range of skin issues, such as rosacea and acne scars.

What technology are you utilising to combat leg veins?

The Lumenis M22 is a technologically advanced multi-application system which combines four key technologies in order to treat over 30 skin conditions. The M22 system really brings the latest skin technology to our Bristol clinic and means that we can treat a range of conditions in just one session, so that patients notice the results straight away. It utilises IPL – photorejuvenation with optimal pulse technology (OPT). ResurFX – fractional non-ablative skin resurfacing.

Multi-Spot ND:YAG – for leg veins or vascular lesions with multiple sequential pulsing. Q-Switched Nd:YAG – treatment of pigmented lesions skin toning treatment.

The technology can also be used to treat rosacea, freckles, and kerastasis among other conditions.

I understand that the neck and decolletage is one of the first to show the signs of premature ageing and that ‘tech-neck’ is a common complaint.

The results of an ultrasonic skin tightening treatment typically last for a year, although some people might see results lasting between three to five years.

ultrasound waves to stimulate the body’s natural healing and cell repair processes.

Ultherapy is a non-surgical facelift so it’s used to counteract signs of ageing such as sagging and wrinkling skin on the face, neck, chest and brow.

The focused ultrasound waves can target the structural layers of skin to boost the production of collagen within the skin, resulting in a toning, tightening and lifting effect which rejuvenates the facial features.

Ultherapy is not a short term quick fix – it actually offers long lasting benefits that continue to develop in the two to three months following treatment, with further improvements up to six months later.

The results of an ultrasonic skin tightening treatment typically last for a year, although some people might see results lasting between three to five years.

Is it genuinely possible to achieve strong abs without the workout and if so how can technology help to achieve this?

What do you do to treat this?

Ultherapy is a non-invasive, non-surgical cosmetic procedure which uses micro-focused

The BTL EMsculpt uses high-intensity focused electromagnetic (HIFEM) technology to build muscle on the stomach or arms and

legs with no pain or downtime. It delivers high-intensity focussed electromagnetic energy pulses to the muscle tissues, creating supramaximal muscle contractions that activate more muscle fibres than what you can achieve through normal exercise. This is especially popular amongst male patients.

This nonsurgical treatment can tighten, tone, and strengthen the large muscle groups of the abdomen and buttocks as well as of smaller body areas, including the upper arms, thighs, and calves. It creates better muscle definition and reduced circumference.

Are there any effective non-invasive treatments for cellulite?

The EMTONE is a state of the art treatment which combines both thermal and mechanical energy to treat cellulite while improving skin tone and texture for smoother, more toned appearance with long-lasting results.

The treatment combines 2 technologies to combat the various causes of cellulite and dimpled skin: radiofrequency (RF) – creates thermal energy, which warms the deep layers of the dermis. This stimulates natural skin rejuvenation and remodelling by stimulating production of collagen and elastin and

Targeted pressure energy – works in harmony with radiofrequency to reduce the overall size of fat cells. The combination of cellulite reduction and skin tightening is extremely beneficial and is unique to EMTONE. This treatment is non-invasive, has no downtime, and requires no anaesthesia. It can be used on the stomach, arms, buttocks and legs.

Because there’s no anaesthetic required there’s no overnight stay.

Is it really possible to freeze fat away?

CoolSculpting or cryolipolysis is a completely non-invasive process which works to tackle stubborn pockets of fat, reshaping the body for a leaner profile and smoother silhouette.

The technology works by using freezing temperatures to break down fat cells. Cold does not damage other cells in the way it does fat cells, and so there should be no damage to the skin or underlying tissue.

During the procedure, the practitioner vacuums the skin above the area of fatty tissue into an applicator that cools the fat cells. The cold temperatures numb the area, and some people feel a cool sensation.

Coolsculpting procedures use rounded paddles to suck your skin and fat. Cooling

panels crystalize the fat cells in this pain-free procedure. Despite vigorous exercise and strict diet plans, many of us still struggle with troublespots where the fat seems to just accumulate and be resistant to all efforts to shift it. This becomes more difficult as the body’s metabolism changes with age.

CoolSculpting offers a great solution for targeting this problem alongside a healthy lifestyle. The treatment works to destroy fat cells through application of intense cold to the area. The fat cells are then expelled by the body’s metabolic processes. The procedure is non-invasive, so does not involve any use of needles or scalpels.

What causes spider veins and can you treat them with laser technology?

Spider veins can appear as red veins or may have a bluish tint. They are generally very harmless and pose no medical concern. Facial veins are quite common, especially around the nose or the cheeks, so if you suffer you are not alone. They can be inherited, caused by hormonal changes such as pregnancy or menopause, exposure to sunlight or trauma.

IPL laser treatments can selectively target, heat and damage the prominent veins so that they appear less visible beneath the skin.

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“Reinvent the barely-

there makeup look with a dewy cream blush used on the cheek, lip and eye. it’s monochrome for the summer.”

MILK MAKEUP: HYDRO GRIP PRIMER, LIP & CHEEK STICK ‘WERK’ (USED ON CHEEK & EYE) LORD & BERRY: ON STAGE FLUID FOUNDATION, SCULPT & CONTOUR CREAM BRONZER ‘AMBER MEDIUM’ EYEKO: BLACK MAGIC COCOA EDIT MASCARA LOTTIE LONDON: MEGA BROW BROW SHAPING WAX DR LIPP: ORIGINAL NIPPLE BALM

B E AU T Y : T H E A RT I S T

Artist The

Words: Naomi Lake

Model: Lillie Bernie

Photography: Egle Vasi

Makeup artistry and design: Naomi Lake

It’s a summer for stripped-back makeup looks whilst we step back out after the break from our social calendars. focus on healthy, glowing skin, but don’t forget to let your eyes shine – embrace brighter summer tones and subtle light-catching shimmer.

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“Nude tones don’t have to be drab. get glassy with a clear gloss highlighter, patted over sculpted eyes and cheeks.”

LORD & BERRY: ON STAGE FLUID FOUNDATION WESTMAN ATELIER: BEAUTY BUTTER POWDER BRONZER ‘COUP DE SOLIEL’ JANE IREDALE: SMOOTH AFFAIR FOR EYES EYE SHADOW ‘CANVAS’, TOPPED WITH DR LIPP BALM EYEKO: BLACK MAGIC COCOA EDIT MASCARA LOTTIE LONDON: MEGA BROW BROW SHAPING WAX BYBI BABE BALM (USED AS A HIGHLIGHTER) LORD & BERRY: JAMAIS! SHEER LIPSTICK ‘LESS IS MORE’

LORD & BERRY: ON STAGE FLUID FOUNDATION WESTMAN ATELIER: BABY CHEEKS BLUSH STICK ‘BICHETTE’ DEAR DAHLIA: SKIN PARADISE SOFT FOCUS SHINE CONTROL POWDER CIATE LONDON: MARBLED METALS ‘SERENDIPITY’ EYEKO: BLACK MAGIC MASCARA LOTTIE LONDON: MEGA BROW BROW SHAPING WAX KEVYN AUCOIN: UNFORGETTABLE LIPSTICK - CREAM ‘MODERN LOVE’

“Take glitter away from the festival field.

A subtle shimmer, paired with a pinched cheek makes glitter go further.”

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“Follow your upper lash line to just a smidge past the line. enhance eyes and define the lash line, without the hassle of a flick. Introducing: puppy dog liner.”

CIATE LONDON: DEWY SKIN GLASS GLOW TINT WESTMAN ATELIER: LIT UP HIGHLIGHT STICK ‘BRÛLÉE’ DEAR DAHLIA: SKIN PARADISE SOFT FOCUS SHINE CONTROL POWDER CIATE LONDON: MARBLED METALS ‘SERENDIPITY’ EYEKO: BLACK MAGIC MASCARA LOTTIE LONDON: MEGA BROW BROW SHAPING WAX KEVYN AUCOIN: UNFORGETTABLE LIPSTICK CREAM ‘IMMACULATE’

CIATE LONDON: DEWY SKIN GLASS GLOW TINT CIATE LONDON: DEWY SKIN GLOSSY CHEEK TINT ‘COCONUT’ DEAR DAHLIA: SKIN PARADISE SOFT FOCUS SHINE CONTROL POWDER DEAR DAHLIA: BLOOMING EDITION, SECRET GARDEN PALETTE EYESHADOW EYEKO: BLACK MAGIC MASCARA LOTTIE LONDON: MEGA BROW BROW SHAPING WAX KEVYN AUCOIN: UNFORGETTABLE LIPSTICK CREAM ‘THELMADORA’ HANDS: ARTISTS OWN GLITTER, USED ON CANVAS. ALL ARTWORK SEEN AVAILABLE

BY REQUEST OF THE ARTIST. WWW.LILLIEBERNIE.COM

“It’s not summer without florals. Take inspiration from your favourite bloom, mix and match tones, and wash colour across the eye with painterly abandon.”

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e s u o H h g u a H t s a E Words: Peter J Robinson

In the Highland Perthshire’s gateway, you’ll find a seventeenth-century turreted country house set in two acres of well manicured gardens. Rich in history and part of the Atholl Estate, East Haugh House was our final destination on a weeklong trip through the Cairngorms. Sitting south of the small tourist town of Pitlochry, this 12-bedroom, family-run hotel was converted in 1989 by the McGowns.

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“Pitlaricky?”

“No”, Aaron laughed, “Pit-loch-ry” His pronunciation made a lot more sense. After three nights crisscrossing the Cairngorms in the Ferrari F8 Spider, my role as navigator was firmly cemented, even If I couldn’t pronounce each destination perfectly. As we spanked the last few miles south towards the town of Pitlochry, the sky was beginning to darken. Aaron, however, continued his blistering pace, ensuring we would arrive with ample time to change for supper. But somewhere between Badyo and the Eradour distillery, things began to go marginally sidewise.

Be it over-exuberance, camber or precipitation,

running out in the all important race to iron my last remaining, moderately clean shirt for dinner.

Travelling by Ferrari leaves very few wardrobe options, but we persevere. The last time I shared a room with a colleague was in Vancouver at a Rosewood hotel. So popular is East Haugh House with the country sport scene, not to mention a myriad of film crews, that finding even one room is lucky. I am told that the Red Drummond suite has a movie room, and there’s a self-catering gate lodge available. But when all was said and done, there wasn’t actually much need for the room.

Whilst the hotel has its signature Two Sisters restaurant, so named after the proprietor’s brood, it also has the Gezelligheid, Fishermans Bar, where

for the briefest of moments, it all got very real. It wasn’t nightmare fuel, but our sense of hubris was a little dented. This meant we arrived at East Haugh House well in need of respite.

Now, when you arrive anywhere in a bright yellow Ferrari, the onus is on you to do it with deft and tact. Not overload yourself with bags like Aaron did and very gracefully fall over in the car park. Sadly, I didn’t witness this rousing moment, but I did manage to hear a wave of laughter as I checked us in. “I fell over.” What? “I fell over” In the car park?

“Yeah, I was standing there unloading the car and as I bent down to pick up the final bag, I toppled”.

night before, and having watched the bar close at 10am, with no source of further refreshment, we were decidedly sober. Aaron was clearly at pains with what had happened, his typical cool demeanor dashed and perhaps a little bloodied. Insult to injury was that a small group had gathered outside the hotel for pre-dinner drinks and, upon seeing the bright-yellow-Ferrari-owner tumble, were in fits of laughter. “They just laughed at me.” Did you throw anything or call them out? “What?” Did you seek to break their enjoyment by throwing something heavy towards them or suggesting trial by combat? “Of course not, manners maketh the man.” And he’s right, you know.

It’s worth noting that we had imbibed very little the

With Aaron’s pride slowly recovering, time was

you’ll find the same a la carte menu in operation.

Chef patron Neil McGown has his fair share of awards and as a keen hunter and fisherman. The restaurant benefits from locally sourced seafood from the Western Isles, and of course an abundance of local game. As you might expect, our focus dayto-day had very much been where to secure our next petroleum fix, so the idea of a lengthy lunch had been put out to pasture long ago. By the time we reached the dinner table at 8pm, I was in need of sustenance.

It’s certainly my kind of menu and, despite always taking rather a long time to make my choice, I was still left wanting to try the venison liver and goats cheese bonbons. Had I asked, I am positive the kitchen team would have obliged, but with a pressing engagement in Pitlochry, all that remained was to order several drinks to set aside: Jura Superstition, Lagavulin 16 year, Talisker 10 year, and the Edradour 10 year.

I kicked off with the chicken pâté and a kilt lifter, followed by the slow braised shoulder of lamb with dauphinoise potato, spinach and rosemary jus. It was hearty, wonderfully rich and well balanced.

If you’re looking for Highland walks, pictureperfect towns, field sports and whisky, then East Haugh House will cater for you – abundantly. We decided to smoke into Pitlochry after dinner for a spot of people-watching. Rather than visit the town’s established tourist bars and restaurants, of

AARON EDGEWORTH UNLOADING THE FERRARI F8 SPIDER DOCKSIDE AT FINGAL

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which there are many lovely options, we decided to venture into the watering hole that featured the most swivel-eyed locals. With a population of under 3,000 made infamous to tourists by Queen Victoria, who visited in 1866, it won’t take long to make a name for yourself. Not at 6000rpm anyway.

If you’re visiting Pitlochry with your perfect family, loving partner or a walking group, it’s stunning.

Whether it’s the glorious Loch Tummel views, Ben Vrackie, Faskally Wood, Killiecrankie Gorge or Blair Atholl Distillery, I imagine there is something for everyone. We, however, had less than 16 hours, so a woodland walk or hillside hike was not on the agenda. No, we opted to visit a bar where the patrons had been drinking for most of the afternoon and where one should probably feel a little out of place in Edward Green loafers. But this is me, and I am unfazed by locals, tone, impropriety, nudity or heavy drinking.

Yes readers, we had arrived at our penultimate night in the Cairngorms. Having been very well behaved for the week, there was only one thing left to do: get soaked through with the locals. This didn’t exactly go to plan though. Rather than winning friends and influencing people, in the hope

of becoming Mayor of Pitlochry, we instead met a group of middle aged guys on a stag do as we were leaving. Where’s the stag? “Gone, peaked, ya know, too soon, home. You want a swig on this”. And so the games began. By the time we returned to East Haugh House, I was in possession of an additional bottle of whisky and a case of local beers from a distillery run by the groomsman’s friend.

Patron Neil McGown and his wife and fellow owner Lesley, having audibly noted our V8 return, graciously invited us into the bar for post-dinner drinks. With two bottles of whisky and an empty restaurant, I am bound to secrecy by the Geneva Convention at this point. So instead, recall for me the scene in Guy Ritchie’s 1998 film Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels. Having successfully secured “God knows how much stinking weed, a shitload of cash, and a traffic warden,” they proceed to let the good times roll, significantly, on a piano.

As I said, I would love to tell you about the room – and one thing to note was the sheer quality of the water pressure – but I’m afraid I can only really regale you with stories from a well stocked and wholeheartedly hospitable bar.

Later that morning… yeah… having sunk four coffees on the lawn and watched Aaron drive laps around the town in search of his wallet, I was starting to level out. My morning kippers were going down and we were finally packed and ready to depart. East Haugh House had provided us with what will arguably be the enduring memories of our trip to Scotland. With good people and fine whisky, there is much to love. Though both the McGown’s revered daughters were yet to make an appearance, their legend was already established.

As we packed the car and made ready for our journey, a myriad of staff went about polishing fixtures and pruning the garden ready for the next guests. Though not before the head of the hosepipe came off showering the lady of the house, Lesley, with water whilst Neil valiantly tried to wrestle the unruly hose back into line. with Aaron’s slowmotion car park fall and now this, I think we were coming out on top.

All that remained was to wave goodbye as we left with our hubris back intact.

TR

AU T O M O T I V E : D I S C O V E RY

DISCOVERY Words: Peter J Robinson

I’d bided my time patiently for another three months. I was ideally looking for either some respite in the diarised onslaught that was my life or an update on the stalled supply chain keeping our partners from pushing the ‘go’ button. Roof tent, glow plugs, tyres, auxiliary power system, brake upgrade, AV, interior, trim and a host of other great concepts were stalled on all fronts. I’d decided that I needed to swallow my pride and hold fast. Let’s be reasonable; JLR have sold 1.2 million of the fucking things since the launch in 1989. They’re vastly popular, account for a huge slice of the 4x4 pie globally, and will drive over almost anything and anyone.

So, they aren’t going anywhere fast. I mean, they really aren’t.

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M

y stationary anxiety continued.

We still hadn’t set shoot dates to film the Discovery 3’s fettling, but it was proving to be an absolute beast of a vehicle. Even with its box-fresh, early-noughties appearance. I continued to pull into the local car park atop the hillside with about as much rural elitism as can be derived from knowing your 4x4

NO SKIS IN SIGHT AND ONLY ONE ROOF RACK. WORRYING

is an actual offroad vehicle. Not an homogenised attempt at appealing to new market demographics who have no interest whatsoever in an ordnance survey map, let alone understand how to cross a body of water. Aaron Edgworth always tells me, “buy a car you look back at across the car park”.

Whilst mine might be some 15 years old, I do just that. My reptilian brain looks back across the gravel and thinks ‘oooofff ’. This coming from a man who wanted a long wheelbase 110 for as many years as I can remember.

The humble Disco’s first Q2 challenge arrived in April in the form of a thick blanket of snow

that covered the Cotswolds rather satisfyingly overnight. The following morning I drove out in search of a vista from which to sit on the tailgate and simply drink a hot cup of coffee. Whisky chaser optional. On my way up the lane, I spotted someone on my exact wavelength carrying a pair of skis over her shoulder. In the Cotswolds, can you imagine. I have vowed to take my skis and boots out of the cupboard every time it snowed for a number of years now but I never had much faith in the fleet of average daily drivers at my disposal making the journey. Having an array of manufacturers and alike making their fleets available means that one’s own car is usually a

last resort. Not any more my friends. I now had a vehicle that could easily tow a modest snowmobile and all seven passengers skis to boot. Though in the current climate, that grand plan would have to wait till European borders reopened. Thinking about it irrationally, unless the border guards put a bullet in the TDV6 itself, I could probably plough my way through most border control points, then veer off towards a badly erected wire fence and be on my merry ski-toting way. Perhaps that one would leave me with more restomod issues than I had started with.

of a harbinger for a trip I had been dreading since November 2020. I had visited my grandmother’s home several times since her passing, to help with paperwork, clearing out the home and to lament the visceral dying of the light. Now I had to calmly load the Disco with everything my dear mother wanted from the family home and carefully ensure it reached the Isle of Wight. I knew it would all fit, despite considering a roof rack, trailer and van hire. I am sorry I ever doubted you, LR3. Then, in early May came the most ridiculous automotive problem I have ever encountered.

It seems as if the April snow was also somewhat

Having willingly been named designated driver at

the pub, I dutifully loaded the crew into the Disco to make the journey back from one of our fringe villages to home base.

“Have you seen my phone, Pete?”

“I’m driving fella. I see nothing but the road” “Have I left it at the pub?”

“Can someone call Jake’s phone, please”.

I have never seen someone so adamant that they’ve dropped their phone in the car, yet unable

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to find it. Sometime later, after the pissed posse had abated and I was fast asleep, John Ralls, being the helpful guy that he is, offered to stage a coup.

Not content with a full military-grade sweep of the car, Jake sobered up and did the smart thing.

He tracked the phone’s last known whereabouts.

It was, rather annoyingly, in the Discovery. Armed with mild hangovers and torches at 4am, having found my spare key, John and Jake went hunting for the missing phone. It turns out it wasn’t the tequila talking. Jake had managed to kick his Samsung-something-or-another into a gap with

no more than 2mm clearance and safely lodge it into the air conditioning unit. It cost Jake seventy pounds to have Tim Fry Land Rover retrieve the phone. I was happy to remove the seats, but taking out the air conditioning unit and taking it to pieces? Different ball game.

the recce on Sunday, so...”

later enmasse to set up for the morning shoot with the talent not arriving for at least another two hours. It only took John Ralls – JC – all of fifteen minutes to get stuck in his Fiat 500L. He eventually made his way off the mildly banked muddy slope, but not before I managed to utter the immortal words “you need a Landy my friend”. He didn’t, of course, despite also living in the Cotswolds, he was unlikely to need to green lane to work, or haul a snowmobile. But it kept me mildly amused until I realised that, whilst our coffee grinder would work on the

“I am sure it will be fine. Just let them know”.

Having arrived with the DOP in tow, I danced around the fact I couldn’t find an official rep for the park for twenty minutes before giving into my baser-level instincts and driving across open parkland. At five miles an hour, should an unwitting member of the public throw themself into the Discovery’s path it would have been a matter of natural selection. We returned two days

The next day we headed out for a recce of Trent Country Park. Ultimately we were scouting for a natural location befitting of a mini-doc we were filming for small pharma. The client had confirmed Alastair Campbell would lead the

campaign alongside the brand’s chief medical officer. I needed to ensure that myself and the twelve or so crew weren’t about to get lost in the woods on location.

“You’ll need to let the wardens know you’re on the park grounds, drive at no more than 5mph and always have your hazards on. No wardens are on site on the weekend, by the way,” said the film office rep.

“Standard then. Though we are planning on doing

the morning shoot with the talent not arriving for at least another two hours. It only took John Ralls – JC – all of fifteen minutes to get stuck in his Fiat 500L. He eventually made his way off the mildly banked muddy slope, but not before I managed to utter the immortal words “you need a Landy my friend”. He didn’t, of course, despite also living in the Cotswolds, he was unlikely to need to green lane to work, or haul a snowmobile. But it kept me mildly amused until I realised that, whilst our coffee grinder would work on the Discovery’s 12V inverter, the kettle

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Discovery’s 12V inverter, the kettle wouldn’t. This was compounded by the fact that Liam Healey, the DOP, had also confirmed my fears the night before. So, I had to send poor JC on a roundtrip of the estate to pick up coffee for the cast and crew. By the time he returned in his bright red parker, he politely suffered through both mine and Alastair’s jovial beratement. I suspect had he taken the Discovery, with its fully independent setup, supported by height-adjustable air suspension, all of the coffee might have arrived in the cups.

and rigging in tweed, Prince-of-Wales check and pinstripes was a sight to behold. As expected, the Discovery performed admirably as did our second tracking vehicle, a Caterham 310R. Perhaps a little out there but without a fully fledged russian arm allowed in the city, it was the best option.

There really are no limits to the amount of kit and operators you can fit in the back of a Discovery. As the event wound down, we made our way across to Cowdray Park for the internal portion of our shoot.

The Disco’s next shoot was a little more aligned with its intended purpose, as a tracking car.

We were shooting the second episode of our pilot ONPOINT with David Birtwistle and his childhood friend, Chris Bollingbrook. The location was central London where we would attend the Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride Out, a large scale classic motorcycle ride that raises millions for men’s mental health and testicular cancer.

That said, you can attend on any bike but the dress code is important: your best suit or blazer.

I had suggested the full crew dress in their finest, so watching this small production team shooting

“This ain’t looking good, fella,” Josh boomed as he jumped up and down on the running boards.

I watched them flex in full knowledge that they were absolutely in need of replacing. Now a set of genuine running boards might set you back a few hundred pounds, not to mention the labour of removing the old ones. But it’s engineering 101 and given that the holes are already bored, it’s Meccano. Another item for the list that I am adamant to install myself.

with only a few minor fixes (sub 1000) it is still by far the most capable and enjoyable vehicle we have owned to date. The Discovery was performing incredibly well, and not once have I had to offload a single Peli case to another vehicle. Whilst the market is indeed flooded with Defenders and Series of varying ages, not to mention a host or Range Rover Countys, it cannot be that long before the Discovery 2 and 3 are perhaps modern classics. I can hear the conversation now: “Diesel, you say? And how do you go about finding that these days?”

Hopefully the restomod will be complete before it’s entirely outlawed and I am begrudgingly driving a Rivian.

TR

For further details on the suppliers worked with in this feature, visit: thereviewmag.co.uk/autmotive

Whilst the going was slow in terms of the restomod work, the annual service went well and

‘90s GOATEE AND ROOF RACK SOLD SEPARATELY

DISCERNING TASTES Now, we aren’t going to tell you how to live your life. But if you absolutely must turn your liquidity into fixed assets, let’s see if we can direct you towards some of the finer things that will potentially hold their value. Or at least provide amusement.

BOSS & CO Perhaps the best gun money can buy? Boss & Co has remained in private ownership since 1812 and holds the title of London’s oldest gun company. Responsible for the first ever side-lever, over-and-under gun, the company’s team of master craftsmen continue to use traditional methods and handmade construction.

It’s rare in the modern luxury market to find an artisan not owned by a hedge fund or conglomerate, maintaining the highest heritage standards.

D I S C E R N I N G TA S T E S

GREENWICH LOAFER Still based in Northampton since 1890, Edward Green continues to make shoes with a singular motto: ‘Excellence without compromise’. Using the finest French and Italian calf, from the hand cutting of the calfskin to the bevelling of the waist, an Edward Green shoe has a signature antiqued patina.

Their oak soles are bark tanned for nine months imbuing an unrivalled comfort and durability.

SANTOS DE CARTIER WATCH The crowns used for Cartier watches have become the talking point for so many of their designs, each collection having their own distinct variation. Santos de Cartier watches communicate the time with bold Roman numeral hour markers. Their square-shaped silver flinque and black flinque dials with softened bezel edges welcome a set of sword-shaped central hands coated with Super-LumiNova technology.

Santos de Cartier watches are also fitted with a seven-sided crown, adorned with a breathtaking synthetic spinel.

TANTALUS BAR KIT Not necessarily an essential piece of hardware, but life certainly needs a little anaesthesia. Whether you’re enjoying a tipple in the field or from the back of your Defender, you would be hard-pressed to find a finer portable cabinet. The Tantalus kit is made of solid walnut and comes with three bottle slots, large enough for champagne bottles. Also included are twelve 225ml silver-plated champagne cups.

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LILA HASANI SILK PYJAMA Olivia von Halle’s sleepwear makes slumber feel all the more glamorous. Originally born out of inspiration from Coco Chanel’s 20s pyjamas, her classic sets and robes are crafted from luxurious silk-satin and cotton. A heart-stopping lotus blooms across this Lila Hasani, dazzlingly screen-printed for autumn/winter. This profoundly vivid and uniquely delightful lotus print layers dozens of hand-cut screen prints upon one another to create an effect of exquisite, dimensional colour.

THE CURVE SMALL LEATHER BUCKET BAG Sarah Burton’s Cliff Notes for McQueen’s SS21 collection suggested “shape, silhouette and volume,” so the rather intriguing Curve bag should come as no surprise to dedicated followers. A new take on the classic bucket style, it’s defined by the thick padded strips hugging the leather profile. Inspired, of course, by the British brand’s iconic corsetry and signature harness silhouettes.

D I S C E R N I N G TA S T E S

18-KARAT WHITE GOLD, RUBY AND DIAMOND EARRINGS Bina Goenka’s creations are so much more than meets the eye beneath their shimmering surface – the designer sources only the rarest stones for her haute joaillerie. These 18-karat earrings are crafted with 36.05-carats of Mozambique rubies, which are widely regarded as some of the world’s most stunning. They’re suspended from ornate white gold studs sculpted to resemble leaves and shimmering with diamonds.

JANE OVER-THE-KNEE BOOTS Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent.

Whilst you might not be able to pick up a pair of thigh-highs crafted by the man himself without serious time and inclination, these are a close second. Saint Laurent’s ‘Jane’ boots have a striking and bold over-the-knee silhouette that pairs perfectly with short and mini hemlines. Set on slender 105mm heels with snap-fastening cuffs that can be folded over, a pair of Janes are a wardrobe staple.

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GBR - SW1A Words: PETER J ROBINSON

W

ith its enviable location and patronage that dates back to 1908, Dukes London, the home of GBR, is a bonafide institution. With chef Nigel Mendham at the helm for the last decade, winning critical acclaim, I was eager to escape the din of the city and be seated in this stalwart of St. James.

I arrived in the city a little before 5pm for the briefest of meetings at The Arts Club. The Ruinart flowed alongside some rather scintillating conversation before I had to politely make my excuses. “You won’t join us for dinner?”

Ricardo proffered. “I would, of course, love

to, Ricardo, but I’m afraid I have a reservation that simply cannot be missed”. To be late for dinner at GBR would be an affront to all that I hold in high regard.

I suspect you’ll already be well aware of Duke’s redoubtable neighbours in Berry Bros, JJ Fox, Lock & Co and Clarence House. Dukes itself was formally the London Chambers for the British aristocracy and, prior to that, home to a small inn until 1885. Its resplendent Victorian and Georgian townhouses played host to Elgar, Byron, Wilde and Chopin.

As I made my way down St James Street in the early evening, bound for GBR, it occurred to me that I actually might not have visited the establishment before. Since leaving the city many years ago, my incursions are now swift,

involving too many meetings, outlandish parking and ideally a glut of something selfindulgent. My memories of being whisked from bar to restaurant to club and beyond are now fleeting. But there was something slotted away in my ageing grey matter that told me I had visited Dukes. It’s iconic location, the slowly swaying Union Jack above the door, the redbrick façade beneath the climbing green ivy all contributed to my combination of déjà vu and amnesia.

Entering through Dukes’ quiet courtyard, I was becoming ever more convinced I had been here before. I imagine the hotel concierge might have found me a little odd as my eyeline moved around the room, frozen on the spot.

“Can I help you, sir?”

DINGING OUT : GBR

“Absolutely, I have a dinner reservation at GBR and, whilst I’m sure I have been here before, I don’t recall dining.” “Not a problem, sir, down the corridor to the lift then left at the bottom.”

The halls are adorned with oils and fine art as you might expect. I unknowingly skipped one of the more theatrical features, the original wood panelled lift and took the stairs. Though I suspect my waist would thank me for it in the longer term, should it become a habit.

GBR, upon first glance, is a relaxed, all-day dining affair, but with all the elegance and charm one expects from this postcode. The reclaimed parquet flooring gives off a warm honey glow and is well complemented by the striking double-globe wall lights. The inviting arabascato marble tabletops gleam with an edge ringed in

brass. Arguably the restaurant’s centrepiece is the aged brass cocktail bar, which pays homage to the hotel’s well-researched roots as the birthplace of the shaken-not-stirred Martini.

Head bartender-for-life Alessandro Palazzi is an institution whether you like your Martini dirty or otherwise. Dukes is indeed the location where Sir Ian Flemming would regularly knock back many, so the story goes.

Rather than take up a table and Inside Outdesigned chair, I opted for the most discreet space I could see: an end-of-row banquette seat to avoid the interest of any fellow diners. As my guest was yet to arrive, I ordered a gin and tonic and bided my time. Despite the restaurant being rather quiet that evening, the revellers upstairs at Dukes Bar had clearly finished an early supper at GBR and were painting the

town Farrow & Ball red. This private affair rather suited me, all things considered, rarely do I get to enjoy a quiet and restorative moment in the city. I perused the menu. Blackbrow pork rib-eye, River Fowey mussels, monkfish scampi and Cumbrian neck of lamb. This wasn’t going to be an easy choice. I am not famed for my decision-making when it comes to a fine-dining menu. The fear of missing out on a signature dish is momentarily worrying.

Luckily, at that point, my guest arrived and saved me from the briefest moment of indecision. Ben Bond has just finished his feature film directorial debut, The Drifterst. Having premiered at the opening weekend of the Sao Paulo International Film Festival, Jonathan Ajayi was nominated for a British Independent film award for most promising newcomer.

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Bavette was indeed the order of the day. As with all skirt cuts, the richness of flavour and gamey quality has been a fervent favourite of mine for years. Washed down with a Brunello Riserva 2006, it’s a splendid dish.

phere was palpable as hotel guests and cocktail aficionados threw back libation after libation.

A weaker man might have thrown caution to the wind, booked a room and settled in for the duration. Had my drinking partner not exited stage left, I no doubt would have been in situ at the witching hour.

It was clear from the get-go that Ben had already had his glut of food and fine wine and so by this point was suggesting a move to a digestif in the form of a Lagavulin. I was all too happy to oblige. Shortly after, it was agreed that as Ben’s train departure was fast approaching, we should make some headway across town. The Duke’s team were more than happy to arrange a carriage and, having little in the form of willpower after a few drinks, I made my way to Dukes’ bar for a pack of cigarettes. The atmos-

If rumour and tabloid is to be believed (yes I hear myself), Dukes might very rarely count the most estimable of patronages to its hallowed halls. It was suggested earlier this year that a passage might exist allowing patrons from the palace access to a gin and dubonnet or three. Which can mean only one thing: I need to return post-haste with my drinking legs and possibly a head torch. Until December.

Good company, one might say.

We started with a ham hock scotch egg that was deceptive, in that it was both incredibly moreish and had the mass of dark matter. I eventually convinced Ben to fork in with me as we unsurreptitiously shared the starter. It’s the sort of dish that thankfully requires too much prep time for me to cook at home.

After a socially frowned upon cigarette in the courtyard, we returned for our main. Had I toured Dukes in advance, I would have had the foresight to book the Cognac and Cigar Garden: a secluded smoking space within the hotel, hosted in partnership with Rémy Martin.

Though now I have a reason to return – one not to be ignored.

TR

Wanderlust Words: Lath Al-Kaisy

As we emerge from lockdown and get back to normality, our editor, Laith Al-Kaisy, has a lot of travelling to make up for. Here, he puts together his hit-list for the next year or two.

T R AV E L : WA N D E R L I S T LAKE COMO, ITALY

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Villa Sola Cabiati, Lake Como, Described as “an artistic masterpiece that harks back to the hedonism of the Belle Époque,” Villa Sola Cabiati truly exemplifies a time when extravagance was utterly shameless. Yet everything here is as tasteful as it is opulent.

It’s ethereal gardens are the place I want to spend my afternoons – reading, supping cocktails, while looking out over Lake Como.

There’s even a dedicated team – including a villa manager, butler, chambermaid and housekeeper – to make sure your every whim is catered for.

Le Bristol, Paris I love Paris. It’s been my favourite city since 2012 when, for the first time, I got to experience it without the blinkers of pit-stop tourism.

My favourite place to stay is Shangri-La, on Avenue d’Iéna, set in a Napoleonic family mansion. But I’m ready to buck complacency and find somewhere new to call home – at least for one visit. That place is Le Bristol – a globally iconic residence, steeped in elegance and art de vivre, and situated on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. As well as its magical gardens, the hotel is home to Epicure, Eric Frechon’s three-star restaurant.

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The Dorchester, London Okay, okay – I know The Dorchester is a little close to home, but it still makes the list. It feels like I’ve stayed in every hotel in London that matters – from the Buckingham Suite at the Lanesborough to the Shangri-La Suite at the Shard – but kipping over at The Dorchester has always eluded me, despite whiling away many hours at Alain Ducasse’s restaurant there, as well as wooing clients and dates at its iconic watering hole, The Bar. The Terrace Penthouse, in particular, looks like a strong contender for best room in London.

Lopud 1483, Dubrovnik Holy shit. Not only located in one of my favourite cities, this fifteenth-century monastery, once home to Franciscan monks, is also set on a private island. This, for me, is as high-end as it gets. Sea-front views, exquisite gardens, and a private chef.

The property is also known as ‘a living art gallery’ – and justifiably so. It’s adorned with works curated by the Thyssen-Bornemisza family, whose collection is supposedly only second in size to Queen Elizabeth’s.

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Denis Private Island, the Seychelles When it comes to vacations, there’s something about completely disconnecting from the world – from day-to-day life – that’s both obvious and scary. We think we go on holiday to switch off and reset – but do we actually?

Do we really go without checking out inboxes for a week or two? Do we honestly give our eyes and brains a break from the screen, as well as the thrall of social media?

I know I don’t. Which is why Denis Private Island is my ideal getaway. No mobile signal, no internet, no television. Instead, a real opportunity to reconnect with nature, people and food.

Plus, having never visited the Seychelles, I get to tick an entire location off my wanderlist.

Geoffrey Kent Suite, Sanctuary Olonana, Kenya Having a 2 year old, I want to take her everywhere, to see everything. Safari’s never been top of my list in the past, but being able to intimately experience wildlife with my little one, whilst indulging in the usual trappings of luxury, sounds like a good compromise.

The design of the suite looks phenomenal: glass-fronted, contemporary accommodation, with wraparound private decking overlooking the Mara River. It also retains a sense of barefootedness that makes experiences like this so authentic.

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T E C H : B R AU N AU D I O

THE BRAUN LE03 Words: Peter Robinson

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A

s far as portable, smart, home audio devices go, I don’t necessarily find myself wanting. Record player: check. Home cinema system: check.

Obscurely-shaped abstract kitchen and bedroom wireless speakers: check. The one thing truly lacking is the ability to output to all these diverse devices in one architecture. Sure, some of my home hardware doesn’t come with the ability to run a tactical nuclear war wirelessly from the dining table, but quality endures above all else. Built-skilfully, a well-engineered speaker can stand the test of time. Streaming isn’t going anywhere and, after all, it doesn’t exactly have to endure the same beating that the FrancisFrancis X1 has to take in the morning. So, what exactly would it take for me to go back out into what is arguably a wellcatered market? Braun returning to the home audio space after almost 30 years – yeah, worth a look.

The LE03 is the baby of the trio. The LE01 being the parent and the LE02 fitting somewhere in between. On first sight, the LE03’s ‘little black box’ appeals to me. It has the same aesthetic that its founding father, the 59’ range of electrostatic speakers, had. With the brand having achieved the lofty invite to be a permanent fixture at the New York’s Museum of Modern Art, no one can really throw scorn at its svelte exterior. Available in technically two-tone white or black, the LE03 is going to cut an impressive shape on any Habitat kitchen shelve. I would go so far as calling it visually elegant.

Now, if it sounds like I am shilling for time, you’re right. I now have eight separate applications on my phone to control the various devices around the house. It generates enough screentime to be considered a micrograde cryptomine. I use Spotify for 99% of my music streaming, despite a well-rounded

library on iTunes that abruptly stops around 2017. This was the point at which I decided Spotify was worth marrying up to, and I decided to dance with the ‘the one that brung me’. Changing a track, raising the roof or lowering the tone, I can call upon Siri for most things. So why join the smart speaker train when it’s already left the station? Power and intrigue mostly.

I think I stand on pretty solid ground here.

We all cling to vinyl for ‘that sound’. So not embracing the smart home speaker market immediately cannot go all that much against me.

“Ultimately, though, I would choose to enact the mechanical mic button despite the occasional proximity to GCHQ.” The onboard mic and far-field voice recognition are impressive, but it wasn’t instantly apparent. It took me three attempts to set up the tech and download the apps (yes, plural). Now for me, the ability to simply tear off the shrink wrap and connect via bluetooth is paramount – and whilst it’s probably there, it didn’t come easy. It might have had something to do with not opening it for a month for a software update – but it’s been a busy year.

When I finally did manage to power up the LE03 and connect to the network, it worked with ease. For those of you rolling your eyes

at my inability to fire up a Google Assistant enabled speaker for the first time, it’s worth noting that our entire business architecture is built around Larry Page’s work. That being said, the LE03 also comes with 4.2 Bluetooth, a 3.5mm aux, Chromecast and Airplay 2. Using the Braun app, you’ll be able to comfortably choose from a range of presets, in addition to bass and treble adjustment. Though this can’t be achieved by simply summoning Google. Perhaps it’s too much to ask for.

In terms of audio, the LE03 has a 9cm aluminium cone and a more than capable 13cm x 8cm passive radiator to pad out its sound. For most medium-sized spaces, this is more than enough, but I can see how investing in the additional pole floor stand might aid the already ample midrange.

I could certainly see this replacing my bedroom audio setup, not least because it would match some of the furniture and perhaps read me the morning news.

Ultimately, though, I would choose to enact the mechanical mic button despite the occasional proximity to GCHQ. If you want to make your own mind up, you’ll have to visit a store rather than listening to me talk about low-level harmonic variance.

Whilst audibly satisfying, the LE03 would arguably be considered the younger sibling to every other device already established in the household. Yet there is something that draws me to the LE03. It might be the svelte design coupled with the ability to start the slow march towards a smart home. It might be the ability to call out the inaccuracies of friends and family on-demand with a Google search. Irrespective, it’s going to be a modern classic – that much is for sure. Braun has a name in the market that still counts for something. So, whether you opt to kit out your holiday home with multiple units or you’re simply in the market for an upgrade, the L range should be on your shortlist.

BRAUN LE03 Dimensions (mm) 170 (W) x 170 (H) x 84 (D) Finish Black, White Audio inputs Apple Airplay 2 Chromecast™ built-in Bluetooth® 4.2 with AAC 3.5mm Aux-in Operating modes Single LE03 unit – Mono 2 x LE03 units stereo paired – Left/right channel stereo

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Techonomics Words: Laith Al-Kaisy

We take a look at the latest gadgets that make homelife less stressful and more eye-pleasing.

SAGE FAST SLOW PRO As a traditionalist when it comes to cooking, I usually steer away from sous vides and meat thermometers, but curating this editorial has been a revelation. Sage’s Fast Slow Pro is an all-in-one multi-cooker, and whether you’re cooking a joint or a casserole, it takes the time and hassle out of old-school methods.

Pre-settings are in place for certain types of cooking – but these are fully customisable for more adventurous cooks who want to experiment. One of my favourite features, however, is the ‘keep warm’ function that keeps your meal at eating temperature for up to two hours – a godsend for dinner parties.

IROBOT ROOMBA 7+ Huge cleaning power, smart mapping and self-emptying – an AI butler, perhaps? Might as well be. The iRobot Roomba (not sure about the name) gets to work after a few instructions from you.

The smart mapping doesn’t take much time, relatively speaking – it took less than a week for the robot to get to know the layout of our house.

After that, though, it’s a simple matter of asking the robot to clean the entire house or specific rooms. It just needs a hand up the stairs.

SAGE SMART OVEN AIR FRYER Air fryers are a truly great modern invention, allowing us to indulge in otherwise eyebrow-raising meals without the guilt of being unhealthy or the mess and waste that comes with oil.

Sage have a knack of producing the classiest kitchen tech: products that belong on show, not in the back of a cupboard. And this is no different: brushed-steel casing, blue and orange digital display, and the feel of something that gets the job done.

Using what’s called ‘Element Q’ to direct heat where it’s most needed, and with temperatures of up to 230C, you’re guaranteed an even, crisp finish to everything from roast potatoes to battered fish. A true staple of the twenty-first century kitchen.

ANKER NEBULA II PROJECTOR Compact, sleek and travel-friendly, the Anker Nebula II is a great gadget to have by your side for impromptu screenings or even presentations.

A “one-chip DLP projection solution, with a 200 ANSI-lumen LED light and single driver 8W sound system” may not mean much to me, but what I do know is that I can sign in to Netflix or Amazon Prime and stream whatever I like, wherever I like, be it on walls, screens or sheets. We’ve tested it in the kitchen, where we’ve been reluctant to install an uncouth TV. The immediate suspicion is that the picture quality won’t be great, but it’s actually razor sharp.

The only thing lacking is the audio – surprising, considering Anker have some of the best-sounding portable speakers on the market.

GTECH PRO 2 I didn’t test this – my cleaner did. And she was irrepressibly enthusiastic about it. The Gtech Pro 2 is a cordless stick vacuum, so it’s lightweight and agile – properly articulated to get into corners and under furniture. It’s got a huge capacity for such a small container too, and what they’ve called ‘high-performance bags’ means there’s no need to wash or clean the filters. Did anyone ever do this anyway?

Aside from its great performance, the Pro 2 looks the part (sporting the brand’s inoffensive signature black and green) and is easily stored away without compromising room in cupboards – unlike regular vacs.