The tale of stale
Orange is the new black”
“Everything old is new again”
“You don’t know what you’ve got ‘til it’s gone”. Taken by themselves, these three idioms are self-respecting, independent, and understandable. Lump the three together, and it’s scary how easily they can be applied to the whisky industry right now. And, in many ways, the whisky industry is just an extension of (or perhaps a reflection of) trends in other aspects of the community.
I was reflecting this morning on the rapid rate of change we’re seeing in whisky circles. There’s a rich irony in that half of whisky’s marketing arm plays on the narrative of the “old, traditional, hand-crafted methods” that make the spirit, and yet the other half is busting a gut trying to innovate, re-mould, re-invigorate, and come up with new ways to promote the same old same old. In Scotch
whisky circles, the marketing arms are steering the production arms (definitely a case of the tail wagging the dog) to come up with new cask finishes, or fermentation methods, or to use different yeasts, or to innovate some of “point of difference” that will allow them to spruik a new product and get a jump on the competition. And so we see new whiskies land on our shelves that arrive with a song and dance. If you dig into these releases and explore them, two things usually unfold. Firstly, you learn that the resulting flavour wasn’t really all that far different from the “regular” make. Secondly, you observe that the product quietly disappears within a year or so. Word circulates on the street, “Yeah, that was nothing special – it was all just hype”. Orange was the new black until another shade of orange came along.
Hand in hand with this is my observation that many of these “new” things quickly become stale. The list is many and varied: Uber-heavily peated releases. Exotic cask finishes. Rare or
“Good whisky doesn’t need a flashy label, or an exotic backstory. It doesn’t need an accompanying soundtrack. It doesn’t even need its name in lights. So many of the Society’s amazing whiskies fall into this camp –just great spirit in a green bottle.”
unusual sherry cask maturations. Maturing whisky in French wine barriques. Whiskies made to be served vaguely frozen from the fridge. Malt whiskies that are “designed” to be served in mixers. Tasting events where whisky is matched with food / cheese / chocolate / beer / cigars. Whiskies with Q-codes. Whiskies with exotic artwork on the label. Whiskies named and labelled after popular TV shows involving thrones. Brand loyalty clubs. Visitor centre experiences. I’m not suggesting any of these things are poor, inferior, undesirable, or boring. Indeed, some of them have of them been spectacular! My point is that they all, in turn, became stale and were superseded by the next new thing to come along. Only for the cycle to play out and repeat itself.
If you stay on this treadmill for a while, you can’t help but notice that many of these things make a comeback. Some re-surface in new clothing; some change their narrative; some pretend their previous incarnation didn’t exist. And some, sadly, are simply lost to time. We see this in so many other aspects of life. Remember when we could first customise our phone’s ring tone? Everyone set their phones to their favourite song or similar…but witness now how many people have returned to the regular “traditional” ring tone. The old is new. We see the same things play out on television – witness the return of Australian Idol, or the endearing (??) endurance of Survivor in the wake of so many copycat shows. In whisky circles, we went through a period where Brand Ambassadors were practically discouraged from using Powerpoint or similar at tasting events. Only for us to learn that there are aspects of whisky that are bloody hard to describe to new audiences without the assistance of visuals. And so multi-media is back….just with extra bells and whistles. We didn’t know what we had until it was gone.
And yet, happily, underneath all of this, there is an enduring constant. A very simple constant: Good whisky. You see, good whisky doesn’t need bells and whistles. Good whisky doesn’t need a flashy label, or an exotic
backstory. It doesn’t need an accompanying soundtrack. It doesn’t even need its name in lights. So many of the Society’s amazing whiskies fall into this camp – just great spirit in a green bottle. It just needs yourself, a glass, and the time to relax and appreciate it. When all the noise is stripped away, I am refreshed and reinvigorated just to sit down with good, simple, single malt, and to appreciate all the work and effort – by people whose names you’ll likely never know – to grow the barley, malt the grain, brew the wash, distil the spirit, stick it in a cask and age it for a decade or more, bottle the product, and ship it to our shores. And to just sit and savour it. Good whisky is good whisky. Long may it reign.
Thinking differently
There’s no way of writing the following without it sounding like a case of massive bias, BUT, sometimes I’m just in awe of what the Society does, offers up, and has available. Hear me out…
I meet a lot of people in my whisky journey, and inevitably I get asked about what the Society does and what do we offer up? When I get to the part about how we have 15+ different single casks offered up EVERY month, I almost always get asked to check that number. “You mean 15 a year?”, “No, definitely around 15 a month”. It’s almost baffling. It almost makes no sense. The longer you think about it, especially when you dial back into the logistics and process of bottling single casks over a ‘core range’, it’s positively bonkers.
Speaking of logistics, and this kind of news isn’t exciting to everyone I’m sure, but the humble little SMWS has hit a new milestone just last month with the opening of our very own bond store and bottling line just outside of Glasgow. Previously, we’ve relied on third party bottling halls, which has been fine, but by having our own line we can be far more rigorous in quality assurance, timings, and process. That’s just the tip of the iceberg however, as the new site also includes a blending room and innovation team which will enable a depth of flavour creation not previously available. In short, there’s a lot going on behind the scenes at the club to grow, improve, and be the leading whisky club worldwide. More on that to come.
Now we turn our attention to March. It’s a month of thinking differently. One man’s vision to change whisky appreciation and the journey thus far. “Those who said it couldn’t be done were so dull”. Think of the sheer marvel of that diversity of offering; the uniqueness of a single cask and full-flavoured malt whisky and other spirits from around the world. This is our year of celebrating our Maverick spirit, and for March that means a focus on our Maverick women who’ve shaped the Society and shaped whisky in general. We’re also running a huge promo in this Outturn for someone to win a trip to the AMWTC (Whisky Champs) this year. The prize is return accommodation plus your hotel stay for the Champs in Sydney on Saturday, 24th June. Tickets will be up for that soon, but make sure you read on so you can be in the running to win this prize for March, valued at over $1,000.
Matt Bailey ~ Branch Director, SMWS Australia“SMWS has hit a new milestone just last month with the opening of our very own bond store and bottling line just outside of Glasgow.”
THE MAVERICK SPIRIT SWIRLS
Our year of being Mavericks continues into March with another unexpected, but very welcome, Malt of the Month. Most members may recall last November when we had our last big new member promotion featuring this Smokus Fruiticosus. The overwhelming feedback from members has been “Euan’s best creation yet” and “That perfect balance of Orkney and Islay smoke like liquid smoky silk on the palate”. The members who joined with this, or the members who referred others to, have been simply blown away by the sheer delicious enjoyment out of this release.
So when we said this was a preview release, we weren’t kidding. It’s finally here for all members to enjoy at a cracking price and share around the table with friends and family who’ll appreciate an amazing flavour in this rich blended malt. Aged 10 years in a combination of ex-sherry casks and ex-bourbon, this is the epitome of smoky fruits, thick mouthfeel, and dangerously easy-drinking enjoyment. Jump into the year of Mavericks with our March Malt of the Month, Smokus Fruiticosus now.
Keep an eye out for the full video from our ambassador Matt Bailey talking about this special release on our YouTube channel or socials.
SMOKUS FRUTICOSUS
SMALL BATCH BLENDED MALT
CASK NO. BATCH 15
$160
REDUCED FROM $180
REGION Blended Malt
CASK TYPE Bourbon, PX & Oloroso Barrels, butts & hogsheads
AGE 10 years
DATE DISTILLED 27 April 2011
OUTTURN 2,445 bottles
ABV 50.0%
AUS ALLOCATION 240 bottles
Our latest blended malt is comprised of malt whiskies from the islands of Islay & Orkney. We made use of bourbon barrels and hogsheads, as well as Spanish and American oak sherry hogsheads, which were seasoned with oloroso & Pedro Ximenez wines. The resulting whisky is sweet, rich & intensely smoky, as the medicinal character of Islay peat marries with the floral & earthy smoke of the Orkney isles.
PHYSICS BENDING!
Our Maverick spirit continues with yet ANOTHER new code in March of new wave distilleries changing the landscape of whisky forever. Distillery 151 hails all the way from Sweden and has been innovating and creating lush whiskies since 1999. Cold climate, gravity-fed production, eco-friendly sustainable output, and incredible malt character. Quite often seen as a no-age statement or younger examples, this Cask 151.4 is a whopping 13 years in oak and as such has seen quite a dip from the angels in proof down at a very drinkable 46.5% ABV natural cask strength. Expect notes of peach stones, tropical bubblegum, and a heavy drizzle of maple syrup. Yum! Learn more about this release on an upcoming stream on our YouTube channel, SMWS Australia.
FROM SWEDEN WITH LOVE
SWEET, FRUITY & MELLOW
CASK NO. 151.4
$330
REGION
Sweden
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 13 years
DATE DISTILLED 16 May 2008
OUTTURN 286 bottles
ABV 46.5%
AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles
An aromatic and rather entertaining nose we all agreed. Showing such diverse things as peach stones, wet dog, dried herbs, lemon pith and tropical bubble-gum with vanilla pods. Water brought vanilla cream cake, custard, butterscotch, maple syrup and meadow flowers with firmer hint of coconutty gorse. The neat palate opened with pineapple crisps, orange blossom, candied pistachios, tropical fruit syrups and white peach. With water it became greener and more tart with hints of juniper, damsons, cherry schnapps and a nice waxiness in the texture.
REGION Speyside
CASK TYPE 1st fill Spanish oak Oloroso butt
AGE 8 years
DATE DISTILLED 7 November 2012
OUTTURN 600 bottles
ABV 67.9%
AUS ALLOCATION 60 bottles
We initially noted the worm tub heft of this distillate shining through from beneath the sherry. Very typical of this underrated Speysider. We noted twigs coated in blackcurrant jam, wild garlic, aged Malbec, burnt raisins and treacle tart. With reduction we got gamey vibes of roast pigeon, orange travel sweets, BBQ softened figs and cocoa with hints of vanilla cream and marzipan. The neat palate displayed immediate, distinctive notes of sherry vinegar, malt extract, grist and chilli oil. Some roast chestnuts bobbing about in the darkness too. With water there came cinder toffee, coal dust and Belgian waffles drizzled in maple syrup. A lovely impression of wild strawberries drizzled with balsamic reduction. Matured for 6 years in an American oak oloroso sherry butt before transfer to a 1st fill Spanish oak oloroso sherry butt.
GTR - GINGER, TOBACCO AND RUM
DEEP, RICH & DRIED FRUITS
CASK NO. 85.68
$185
REGION Speyside
CASK TYPE 1st fill #3 char level hogshead
AGE 13 years
DATE DISTILLED 13 December 2007
OUTTURN 165 bottles
ABV 56.2%
AUS ALLOCATION 51 bottles
We imagined walking past an open window kitchen while a dark Jamaican ginger cake was baked and then stepping into a Cuban drying room of tobacco leaves. On the palate a sweet and spicy jerk ham with a sticky rum and marmalade glaze. After the addition of water, we were back in the kitchen where we baked a passion fruit mousse traybake as we enjoyed a sumptuous trio of flavours, morello cherries candied with Armagnac and coated with dark chocolate. Following twelve years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this whisky into a # 3 charred 1st fill hogshead.
CHAMOY FROM MEXICO
SPICY & SWEET
CASK NO. 100.33
$195
REGION Speyside
CASK TYPE 2nd fill charred red wine barrique
AGE 14 years
DATE DISTILLED 5 October 2007
OUTTURN 282 bottles
ABV 59.8%
AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles
The aroma reminded us of a Vermouth from Jerez based on a blend of Amontillado and PX Sherry and of course with the addition of herbs, fruits and of course, wormwood. Velvety soft and sweet on the palate but with a distinctive note of aniseed and gentian as well as a spicy tobacco finish. After reduction, a deeper fruitiness on the nose with blueberry tartlets, fig rolls and a slice of moist fruitcake while to taste Mexican spicy fruit roll ups, fruit flavoured candy made with spices and chamoy sauce. Following eleven years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this whisky into a 2nd fill charred red wine barrique.
HYBRIDISATION
Cask 68.70 Intriguing idiosyncratic spent nine years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, then was transferred into a 1st fill custom toasted American and European oak barrique. The wood for this incredible cask was supplied to us by our partners Herfe, and the cask is made of 70% American oak and 30% European oak. We also fitted toasted heads to the casks, in case it wasn’t crazy enough. The hybrid/designer cask brings the flavour contribution of both types of oak together in one cask. American oak is high in oak lactones which contribute coconut/vanilla flavour. European oak is rich in tannins, which gives rich fruit flavours and a complex mouthfeel. It is unusual to see American oak that has only been ‘toasted’ - it is usually heavily charred for bourbon maturation. The toasting (heat treatment) generated desirable flavour compounds (spicy, sweet, smoky) in both types of wood from the breakdown of the wood components. Worth noting that the lactones, higher in American oak, are present naturally and so not require toasting to be generated during cooperage.
A ‘whacky’ aroma of over-ripe bananas lying in an eyecatching spalted sycamore bowl on an antique rattan table in the sun came to mind. It did not stop there as the palate seamlessly carried on with that more idiosyncratic theme, how about a spoonful of chocolate hazelnut marquise with Nutella feuilletine and caramelised banana mouse? Intrigued? You should be as after dilution we used a handful of heather to mop barbeque sauce on to bacon wrapped barbequed spiced Moroccan meatballs. Following nine years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this whisky into a 1st fill custom toasted American and European oak barrique.
SOCIETY EXPERIENCES
SYDNEY
THINKING DIFFERENTLY: OUTTURN PREVIEW
Sydneysiders, our Outturn previews are back. Join Matt Wooler at Captain’s Balcony for an evening tasting through a selection from this very Outturn. Not to be missed for a night of discovering what’s on offer at an amazing Partner Bar to boot.
FRIDAY 24 FEBRUARY
7:00PM
Captain’s Balcony, 46 Erskine St, Sydney
WHISKY 101, 102, AND 103…
Want to think differently about your whisky? Would you like to lift your game and become a Dram Whisperer? Our March event is a play on Whisky 101 and will be an in-depth look at the fundamentals of whisky: Ingredients, production, maturation, and the like. We’ll then go up a gear and also look at Whisky 102 and 103… exploring some of the little known facts and secrets that the brands and industry don’t want you to know about!
FRIDAY 10 MARCH
6:30PM ARRIVAL
Royal Automobile Club, 89 Macquarie St, Sydney
WHISKY DINNER - FRANZ SCHEURER AND JOSE SILVA
Australia’s undisputed king of matching food to whisky, Franz Scheurer, will once again weave his magic with Society malts, this time collaborating with acclaimed chef, Jose Silva, at Bibo in Double Bay!
WEDNESDAY 26 APRIL
7:00PM FOR 7:30PM
Bibo, 7 Bay St, Double Bay
MELBOURNE
THINKING DIFFERENTLY, A WHOLE NEW WORLD
Our classic monthly W&A nights continue with our theme this month of Thinking Differently. Join Matt & crew for a deep dive into the innovation and flavours around some stunning malts and grains you’ve not seen or tasted before. Seats are strictly limited and these nights sell out sometimes in seconds…
THURSDAY 16 MARCH
6:30PM ARRIVAL
Whisky & Alement, 270 Russell St, Melbourne
PERTH
DROP THE SHERRY BOMB!
Perth, let’s deep-dive into the world of sherry, sherry casks, fortified casks, and more with our state manager David Stucken diving into the deep, dark, sherried goodies from the SMWS. In this session you’ll learn about sherry, Spanish roots, and more for one special night only.
SUNDAY 26 MARCH
4:30PM ARRIVAL
Terrarium, 99 St Georges Tce, Perth
CANBERRA
LOVE IS IN THE AIR — JOYFUL DRAMS AND REUNIONS
A Steps Tasting awaits where you choose the drams you’d like to taste! So get your tickets and join us in the National Press Club for an evening of sensational single cask, cask strength malts, great fun and great company.
WEDNESDAY 29 MARCH
6:15PM ARRIVAL
National Press Club of Australia, 16 National Circuit, Barton FOR
OUR LATEST EVENT LISTINGS AND TO BOOK ONLINE VISIT SMWS.COM.AU/EVENTS
CHAMPS IS BACK FOR 2023
AUSTRALIA'S BIGGEST WHISKY TASTING AND COMPETITION. DRINK WHISKY & WIN PRIZES ON ONE HUGE NIGHT IN WINTER.
EARLY-BIRD TICKETS ON SALE THIS MONTH: STAY TUNED
SATURDAY 24 JUNE, 2023
Art Gallery of NSW
TOTALPRIZEVALUE ATJUSTOVER $1,000
Introduce a friend to the SMWS this March, or join the Society as a new member, and you’ll automatically go in the draw to WIN a return airfare from anywhere in Australia + a night’s accommodation + your Whisky Champs VIP ticket. Total prize value at just over $1,000!
HOW DO YOU WIN? REALLY REALLY SIMPLE
Join the SMWS anytime between the 1st and the 17th of March 2023. Already a member and want to qualify? Refer a friend to join. Ask them to put your name in the referrers box when joining online and you’re in the running! We’ll draw a name out of a hat on Monday 20th of March. Don’t miss out!
NE W WAVE
March is about thinking differently than others, challenging the status quo, and celebrating the new wave of distilleries we’re proud to work with. Come and wave the new realm of distillers and innovators with this special selection for our March virtual pack of some incredible new casks and newer codes to taste along with the team + special guests.
Alice through the tasting glass
Tune in live on Facebook & YouTube on Wednesday 22nd March, 7PM AEDT. Or watch later at a time that suits.
GRAB YOUR VIRTUAL TASTING KIT AND JOIN IN THE FUN! SMWS.COM.AU/SHOP
*Packs just $89 and available on Outturn day. All samples are a shareable 30mls, and packs are strictly limited to 20 for this session.
SILKY, MILKY, FRUITY BOOTY
JUICY, OAK & VANILLA
CASK NO. 26.193
$195
FUN IN THE SUN
JUICY, OAK & VANILLA
CASK NO. 135.42
$270
REGION Highland
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 10 years
DATE DISTILLED 8 February 2011
OUTTURN 224 bottles
ABV 59.6%
AUS ALLOCATION 60 bottles
The nose started off with gorse flowers, apples and pears, apricot jam, pineapple and tropical fruit squash; then turned creamier – white chocolate, vanilla and honey with some crushed shell minerality. The palate was fabulously juicy – soor plooms, green apples, lime, quince, melon, cherry and strawberry laces – but also flumps and cookie dough sweetness and ginger to finish. The reduced nose covered familiar ground – elderflower, dried mango and kumquat, then toasted oak, honeycomb chocolate, clotted cream and milky coffee. The palate was a silky delight of lychee, mandarin and coconut cocktails, golden syrup on crushed hazelnuts, ginger and a squeeze of lemon.
REGION Highland
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 21 years
DATE DISTILLED 26 July 2000
OUTTURN 138 bottles
ABV 54.9%
AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles WEEK 3
17TH MARCH
A truly irresistible scent awaited us waiting to be discovered, sparkling white chocolate lime truffles next to a tropical fruit salad with cacao nibs and guava juice. On the palate neat we ran out of superlatives, so superbly smooth with flavours of kumquat, quince, monstera deliciosa (a mixture of pineapple, coconut and banana) and tonka beans. If you so wish you can add a drop of water and a whiff of sweet spices was followed by candied orange peel and white raspberry popping candy chocolate. Luscious, tropical on the palate like a La Vina cocktail, using one part of East-India solera sherry and sweet Amaro next to one part of Bourbon and a dash of orange bitters.
A NEW MAVERICK APPEARS!
Keen code hunters might wonder what’s happened here. A new appearance, but not too new a code? When this delightful Danish distillery was first bottled in the iconic Society green glass a couple of years ago, it was Cask 141.1, and the Danish members snapped it all up. Only fair they get first dibs like we did with our Aussie casks! Fast forward a couple of years, and distillery 141 is now up to .2, and we’re super lucky to have bottled this cracking example of new world whisky done well. Founder Jens-Erik Jørgensen has followed his passion for smoked cheese, local ingredients, and richly oily spirit unlike anything you’ve had before. Expect notes of nettles, pine, toffee, carrot cake and black pepper.
PROWLING THE UNDERGROWTH
SPICY & DRY
CASK NO. 141.2
$425
REGION
Denmark
CASK TYPE 1st fill bourbon barrel
AGE 6 years
DATE DISTILLED 18 March 2015
OUTTURN 201 bottles
ABV 60.6%
AUS ALLOCATION 30 bottles
The nose opened with juicy fruits, nettles, coconut husks and aromatic hints of cedar wood and pine sap. Beyond that some light toffee and grassy freshness. Some water brought us lime jelly, orange oil, hessian sacks in a dusty wine cellar, lemon peel and herbal bitters. The mouth gave the initial impression of spicy carrot cake, oak shavings and coriander marmalade. Further notes of rye spice, cinnamon and liquorice. With reduction it became oilier in texture with some vegetal notes of pumpkin, then dried heather, pine wood, metal polish and black pepper.
PIRATES GOING CRAZY ON THE BEACH
PEATED
CASK NO. 122.47
$180
REGION Highland
CASK TYPE 2nd fill bourbon barrel
AGE 8 years
DATE DISTILLED 3 May 2013
OUTTURN 233 bottles
ABV 61.1%
AUS ALLOCATION 30 bottles
Lots to discover on the nose, but everything was suffused with heather and lavender smoke – preserved lemons, tonka beans, gooseberries, marker pens and dousing a fire with a can of Sprite. The palate was full of fruity character – apple, lemon sherbet, peaches, pear drops, dried apricot – tangy and tasteful, but again all rumbled up in a madness of smoke. On the reduced nose we imagined a pack of pirates swigging rum and toasting marshmallows over a beach bonfire. The palate now – exotic, ash-smeared fruits, blow-torched mango, pineapple concentrate, chocolate limes, passion fruit, melon and flaming lemon thyme –‘Hell Yeah!’
DOGS, TIGERS AND CRABS
PEATED
CASK NO. 66.212
$200
REGION Highland
CASK TYPE 2nd fill bourbon barrel
AGE 12 years
DATE DISTILLED 21 November 2008
OUTTURN 222 bottles
ABV 59.3%
AUS ALLOCATION 48 bottles
Our noses picked up Germolene and Tiger Balm, prawn shells and crab claws in bonfire embers, Turkish delight and sherbet lemons and Frazzles dipped in motor oil. Our palate descriptors included fly cemeteries, liquorice, tobacco strands, char-grilled peppers and roasted chestnuts; beer and salted pretzels – a lovely sweet and smoky combo. The reduced nose made us think of roofing pitch, Van Nelle Halfzware Shag, leather goods stalls in Andalucía and toffee apples dropped in ash. The palate now – hickory-smoked hotdogs with English mustard, fruit pastilles and lemon zest, sweet rice paper and an aftertaste of coffee grinds, tobacco and ash.
SMOKE AND MIRRORS
PEATED
CASK NO. 53.394
$205
REGION Islay
CASK TYPE Refill bourbon hogshead
AGE 11 years
DATE DISTILLED 12 November 2009
OUTTURN 238 bottles
ABV 57.4%
AUS ALLOCATION 36 bottles
The panel members looked at each other, have we got the correct sample? Fresh doughnuts, lime jelly, mint, jasmine? Ok there were also, toasted croissants with smoked salted butter and a tea-smoked lychee amuse bouche. What a difference on the palate – big smoke, but also big fruity esters, were pear drops dried in the kiln? Water added salty sea spray, smoked lime mayo on oysters, pineapples barbequed over a peat fire while to taste still that fruitiness which lurks behind the smoke. Tropical ice lollies and salted caramel sauce added to the confusion as we finished with blow-torched zingy lemon meringue cupcakes.
A LA RECHERCHE DU TEMPS PERDU
COGNAC
CASK NO. C7.1
$905
REGION Cognac
CASK TYPE Cognac barrel
AGE 33 years
OUTTURN 532 bottles
ABV 62.2%
AUS ALLOCATION 12 bottles
A beautiful colour of burnished mahogany gives way to an utterly classical nose that prickles with dates, sultanas, ancient demerara rum, coal hearths, dried porcini mushrooms and a myriad of dark fruits. There are huge dollops of rancio and dunnage undercut with orange marmalade and cocktail bitters. Water brings an added earthy depth and throws up lemon curd and ground spice mix. To taste this one is beguilingly complex and stunningly poised. Motor oil, orange liqueur, citrus rind, cinnamon bark, tea tree oil, exotic hardwoods and luscious green fruits all vie for attention. With water there are further notes of hessian, espresso and bitter chocolate.
“I really love the freedom for creativity we have in Australia. Whether it’s experimental yeasts, malts, cask maturation or mash bill combinations, we are leaders of innovation, expanding and diversifying whisky culture.”
Maverick Women of Whisky
WORDS BY LISA TRUSCOTT AND CARLIE DYERThe SMWS has had some absolute trailblazing women lead the charge over the years, both locally and internationally. We’ve also worked with many trailblazers who’ve helped shape the whisky scene and brought it to new audiences across the country. We sat down with a few legends to talk about their journey.
What is your role at Archie Rose?
My role is Senior Distiller. It involves looking after our team of distillers and cellar hands and making sure the wheels of production keep turning. I do not have a standard 9-5 as each day brings new and unexpected challenges. Some days are spent dealing with bond stores, some in production or sometimes just good ol’ cleaning of the floor. Today I’m fixing our water filtration skid, so always something new.
What is your favourite thing about working in the Australian whisky industry?
The unlimited creativity that allows us to flourish with new ideas, experimentation and innovation is one of my favourite things about working in Australia. The legal definition of what is classified as whisky is much broader than traditional old world whisky countries. This allows us to not be defined and limited to what we can produce. We can innovate within every area of the whisky making process and produce whisky that is truly unique. The raw
Lisa Truscott
ingredients within Australia allows us to make a quintessentially Australian whisky that cannot be replicated anywhere else in the world. An indigenous grain that has been cultivated, farmed experimentally, malted with a local wood and aged in eucalyptus casks? Sign me up.
How long have you been in the industry?
I started working for my first distillery in 2014 in Western Australia which produced a corn whisky from The Wheatbelt. From then, I have been fortunate to achieve what most traditional distillers cannot, which is travel! Over my nine year career I have worked in Scotland, Tasmania and now Sydney.
What led to your career in whisky?
A love for whisky of course! I had never planned to choose a career in whisky, but like most people, once you are in, it’s incredibly difficult to get out. The people, the passion and the community are all things that keep us coming back for more.
What was your first sipiphany? What was that whisky that made you say “Yep, this is great stuff”?
While I had been a whisky drinker for a few years, the first time I saw a white whisky, it stopped me in my tracks. I remember seeing the Hudson Corn whiskey and my brain stopped functioning. How could a whisky be white? It made me reconsider everything I knew and evoked a new learning and appreciation of something I thought I was so familiar with. Still to this day, I call it my “Ah ha!” moment. It changed how I perceived whisky and led me on my new (not so new now) journey.
Have there been any challenges you have faced working in the industry?
There have been many challenges throughout my career, from working in a male-dominated industry, working in a competitive field with limited positions to commissioning a brand new distillery during COVID! Every day brings new challenges which is why I say my job is not distilling, it is creative problem solving. One of the biggest challenges was just getting started so I always try to help any way I can for new people to enter the industry. Whether it is offering advice or having a chat about different pathways, I try to offer all that I wished I had before I started.
What are some changes you would like to see in the industry for it to grow?
While there have been incredible changes within the last 10 years, there is still a long way to go in terms of inclusivity, diversity and accessibility within the industry. Still today, many members of the public are influenced by outdated marketing and a gatekeeping mentality. It is the task of every member in the whisky community to be welcoming, accepting and open-minded. Our focus should be on education, enjoyment and sharing the love of a good dram.
What is an achievement you are proud of from 2022?
2022 was a challenging year which had many twists and turns. One of my achievements that I am incredibly proud of is the new distillery’s single malt and rye spirit officially becoming whisky. It was a massive accomplishment which told the success of commissioning through COVID and all the struggles associated with it. We worked without technicians on site and had to communicate through emails, phone calls and VR headsets to Belgium, Italy, Scotland and interstate. While there were long hours, a demanding workload and many mop and bucket moments, we accomplished it as a team and produced some amazing spirits. Some of which should hopefully be released in the near future.
“It is the task of every member in the whisky community to be welcoming, accepting and open-minded. Our focus should be on education, enjoyment and sharing the love of a good dram.”
Carlie Dyer
STARWARD DISTILLERY
What is your role at Starward?
I am a Blender at Starward and work predominately with maturing whisky. I also lead our internal spirit quality and sensory program and am actively involved in new product development.
What is your favourite thing about working in the Australian whisky industry?
While I do love traditional Scotch whisky, I really love the freedom for creativity we have in Australia. Whether it’s experimental yeasts, malts, cask maturation or mash bill combinations, we are leaders of innovation, expanding and diversifying whisky culture.
How long have you been in the industry?
I’ve been in the alcohol industry for 11 years. I started in the wine industry as a lab technician when I was 19. I didn’t even drink wine! I was just a kid looking to make a buck. But that job really got me into the art and science of fermentation. I travelled to Italy to make wine and jumped back to Australia and managed a laboratory in the Yarra Valley for three years before starting my career in whisky in 2018.
What led to your career in whisky?
The freedom for creativity and the rate at which craft whisky was growing really excited me. Also naturally being an oxidative product it’s a lot more stable than wine, so much less cleaning and monitoring!
What was your first sipiphany? What was that whisky that made you say “Yep, this is great stuff”?
I was 22 and in Costa Rica visiting my dad, he was having a dram of Glenmorangie 10-year-old. That was my first whisky I sipped (not shot) and really enjoyed. I also have a sipiphany on every SMWS bottling of Clynelish distillery 26!
Have there been any challenges you have faced working in the industry?
There have definitely been challenges. In a male-dominated industry it is quite common to be overlooked, ignored or to not be taken seriously because it’s assumed you don’t drink or know anything about whisky. This is a common misconception and as much as we are moving away from this, it’s still there to some degree. In saying that, female and nonbinary presence is definitely expanding in our industry with big brands like Jack Daniels and Glenmorangie having women at the forefront of their advertising campaigns. In my four years in the industry, I’ve seen exponential growth in whisky becoming a more inclusive and diverse drink, which we really champion at Starward. Whisky is for everyone!
What are some changes you would like to see in the industry for it to grow?
The spirit tax needs to be reduced for there to be further growth in the industry. With the third highest tax rate in the world, it’s absolutely insane that it continues to increase twice a year.
What is an achievement you are proud of from 2022?
I am really proud of Starward’s achievement in the San Francisco spirits awards taking
out 12 double golds and three golds last year. Being one of three Blenders, I really feel that we contributed and played a huge part in this win. It’s just assuring to know that we are doing something right!
What is next for you? What are some goals you would like to smash in 2023?
I have a few projects coming of age in our bond store this year that will be released soon. It’s so exciting walking a product through from its conception to bottling and into market. My goal is to travel more, particularly to Scotland and Japan to get some experience in their distilling and blending practices.
We’ve chatted with a few more local and international legends, which can be read in-full in our upcoming Unfiltered Magazine online. Jump in and have a read.
“In my four years in the industry, I’ve seen exponential growth in whisky becoming a more inclusive and diverse drink”