THE MAGAZIN E FOR PIERCING PROFESSIONALS > FEB / MAR 2024
25-year career
Quentin i nglis tells all
Jewellery showcase
s wag-tastic chains
s ocial media
Here I am, sitting at my desk in glorious gratitude. It was a whole year ago, in exactly the same spot, that I wrote that very first, hopeful editor’s letter before The Sharp End began its journey out into the world – and never in my wildest dreams could I have imagined the reception it received.
i remember it like it was yesterday – running on pure joy and adrenalin for a good week as i watched, via social media, the magazines arrive at their destinations. And guess what? We’re now six issues in, and i still get that exact same intensity of emotion every single time the magazine lands, seeing your social media posts and stories, and hearing all of your fabulous feedback. so, thank you – every single one of you – for supporting this venture. Here goes year two!
there’s a distinctly festive feel to this first-anniversary issue, which is bursting at the seams with birthday presents thanks to our amazing
advertisers. A big shout out goes to Piercemed for the super generous free samples sent out with UKbased subscriber copies; to BVlA for the fantastic free gift they’re offering to all readers (see leaflet for details); to Hialeah Fine Jewelry for the discount code (page 11); and to NeoMetal, tish lyon and leroi for spreading the sticker joy. We hope you’ll enjoy these gifts –don’t forget to show these guys some love!
i mean, it’d be rude not to celebrate, so we’ve got a little anniversary treat of our own in store for you too. Here’s a clue: it begins with ‘M’ and ends with ‘erch’. Turn to page 31 now!
Big love,
Louise Hoffman Founder and Editor-in-chief
Printed
c hai N reactio N
Showcasing a range of gold colours, styles and the most opulent of embellishments, this selection of chains is full of swag
06 News aNd views
All the latest industry news and updates from the piercing community
12 dates for your diary
Don’t miss these exciting industry events taking place in the UK and further afield over the coming months
20 25 Not out
Hot on the heels of his studio’s 25th birthday, Quentin Inglis of Kalima Emporium tells us about the origins and experiences of his quarter-century piercing career
26 it’s a celebratioN!
The UK Association of Professional Piercers’ Public Outreach/ Vice President Becky Crossan reminds us to celebrate every step of our progress
28 desigN goals
Marking The Sharp End ’s first anniversary, this Q&A with the magazine’s creative director Craig John paves the way for an exciting announcement!
32 social climbiNg
Whether you’re a studio owner, self-employed piercer or front-ofhouse, check out these top tips for conquering social media
39 up close aNd persoNal
The Body Piercing Archive’s Nash Bryant tells us why piercingpublication-of-the-past IntimSchmuck deserves a spotlight. (Contains images of genital piercings)
43 time for techNique
Olly Todd makes a return visit to give us the benefit of his wisdom on marking and needle-bending techniques for forward helix piercings
46 the miNd-body coNNectioN
In the first of a new series, Jess Sellars explains why it’s so important to take a holistic view of wellbeing
50 eNd-Note iNspo
For a final burst of positivity, Leigh Evans of Darkside Piercing Frome shares the way in which industry events have changed his life
Serena Mitchell of Flux Piercing Studio in Worthing tells us about a recent success for one of the studio’s newest team members – as well as the industry as a whole
I’m sure each and every one of us has a completely different story to tell about how we became the piercer we are today. We all learn in completely different ways, under different mentors, or some are even self-taught.
Our apprenticeships all have one thing in common, however, and that is they are not funded by our Government. When you look at the majority of big businesses, an apprenticeship programme is usually well subsidised, with some kind of third-party learning facilities and financial help.
So, you can imagine our surprise when our apprentice Kelsey Sanders (pictured) was nominated and then won at the Adur and Worthing Business Awards for the Young Achiever/ Apprentice Award 2023!
This award recognises the outstanding talents of individuals aged 18 to 25, highlighting young people who have made a real impact
in their field of business as a budding entrepreneur, young employee or apprentice within a company.
It’s extraordinary, considering our apprenticeship programme is not funded by anyone but ourselves, but is provided in-house under our Senior Piercer who has dedicated the last decade of their career to learning as well as teaching, ensuring an education that creates exceptional and now locally recognised learners.
To be recognised on a business platform over prestigious local companies is not only a win for us, but we think a massive win for the piercing industry, opening the door for other studios to do the same!
We are so proud of Kelsey for all her hard work – not only for Flux, but for the wider piercing community, as we challenge the narrative and highlight that our industry is not recognised as it should be.
Nico at Stay Sharp Studio proudly clinched the ‘Best Piercer in the North West of 2023’ title at the esteemed English Beauty Industry Awards, reflecting their dedication to safe piercing and client satisfaction and bolstered by unwavering support from patrons.
As a solo business owner, Nico says they confront challenges head-on, drawing inspiration from support received to drive efforts in enhancing standards and recognition for safe piercing practices – the aim being to shape an industry where piercers are respected professionals, advocating for higher standards and
credibility in the field.
Expressing profound gratitude for the votes, support and contributions, Nico emphasises the patrons’ belief in their craft as a driving force to constantly improve standards. In striving to be the best piercer possible with available resources, Nico shares: “I am dedicated to pushing forward, constantly evolving to provide the best piercing services within our means.”
Stay Sharp Studio has recently relocated to Moonchild Tattoo in Altrincham to start the next chapter in its success story.
@staysharppiercing
“I’d like to say a huge thank you to Olly Todd.
“Before the Piercer Trade Show in Dublin, I genuinely dreaded bridge piercings; I just never felt confident that I aced them.
“However, after watching Olly perform one, and having a chat with him about
different angles/techniques/ troubleshooting, they are now one of my favourites. I have a new-found bridge confidence and it’s all thanks to him!”
–
Megan Joyce, Ink PiercingsIs there someone in the industry you’d like to send a compliment or thank you to? Email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk
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The (very unscientific) baromeTer of piercing populariTy! STORMY
What’s hot and what’s not as of the end of January? The social media community has spoken...
A big thank you to everyone who took part this time! Keep an eye on our Instagram stories and posts for more polls to get involved with for the next issue of @thesharpend_magazine
The UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP) is excited to announce a new venue in a new city for its 2024 conference.
A sold-out event for three consecutive years, the organisation says it was clear the conference had outgrown the space and it was time to move on.
The 2024 event will take place from 15 to 17 September at Albert Hall, Nottingham. This new space allows for more attendees, larger class sizes and a few other exciting things that will be announced in due course. Tickets will be on sale soon! Keep an eye on @safepiercing_uk
The Pantone Color Institute has revealed the colour of this year to be a soft, warm, cosy shade of peach, inspiring togetherness, compassion and empathy at a time of global turmoil.
Says the Institute: “Nestled between pink and orange, Peach Fuzz inspires belonging, recalibration and an opportunity for nurturing, conjuring up an air of calm, offering us a space to be, feel and heal, and to flourish from. An idea as much as a feeling, Peach Fuzz awakens our senses to the comforting presence of tactility and cocooned warmth.”
At The Sharp End , we think sunstone, peach topaz and peach chalcedony are great colour matches for Peach Fuzz, which you can use to bring this message to life and to theme your cabinets around the colour of 2024. Pictured are some stunning sunstone examples from BVLA; the left and top pieces also feature Chatham-created champagne sapphire accents to add to the peachy vibe!
Nathan Hague, organiser of the Piercer Trade Show, gives us a sneak preview of this year’s exciting line-up – and the first event is just around the corner!
For 2024, the Piercer Trade Show will return with two single-day events. First up is Manchester, held at the Tattoo Tea Party at Manchester Central on 17 March, then follows the Dublin Tattoo Convention at RDS Dublin in October we are very lucky to be hosted again by Martin and his convention organisers for these two events, so thank you to those guys!
At both, you can expect a day of networking, piercing seminars and shopping. Our events feature three-to-four theory classes per day in the classroom, and this year we welcome Olly Todd and Cristiano Aielli to our brand-new piercing zone. Both will lead a 90-minute workshop on freehand techniques and the latest methods, and attendees are welcome to get pierced during these classes too! Meanwhile, theory classes will feature some very popular piercing educators – find out more via Instagram @piercertradeshowuk when it comes to networking,
our events feature the elite of european body piercing, more than 50 professional piercing attendees, and the world’s finest body jewellery suppliers. This is your chance to upgrade the piercing product you currently offer by making new connections with industry leaders from the eU and beyond.
Our jewellery and equipment vendors are all verified by leading governing bodies, and during the event you are welcome to shop directly with suppliers such as Industrial Strength, Buddha Jewelry and Danila Tarcinale. whether you are a new piercer or a 20-year veteran, the trade show is for you!
Tickets are on sale via utopiabodyarts.com and we look forward to welcoming you to the first event on 17 March. Please note, this event is for industry professionals only; apprentices and jewellery counter staff are welcome with one-year minimum experience. Doors open at 11am and event close is 7pm, with after party TBC.
As well as carrying important industry updates, these pages are the place for you, the piercing community, to shout about all of your achievements and developments. so, if for example your studio has held a charity fundraiser, celebrated an anniversary, carried out a refit or rebranding, won an award or hosted an event – please let us know! Likewise, we’d love to hear about any personal achievements, such as graduating apprentices.
There’s a blog on our website with top tips for how to submit a winning piece of content, but at the end of the day, it’s the key details that count!
Send your submissions to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk or tag us in your announcement on Instagram @thesharpend_magazine or Facebook (The Sharp End Magazine).
3 4
Here are some of the unmissable industry events taking place in the UK and beyond over the coming months...
p ier C er t rade s ho W 3.0
17 m arch
Manchester Central (at the Tattoo Tea Party) @piercertradeshowuk
t he 12th tattoo t ea party 16-17 m arch
Manchester Central tattooteaparty.com
uK app Conferen C e 2024 15-17 s eptember
Albert Hall, Nottingham ukapp.org.uk
p ier C er t rade s ho W 3.5 6 o ctober
Dublin @piercertradeshowuk
5 du BL in tattoo Con V ention 4-6 o ctober
RDS Dublin dublintattooconvention.com
i nternationa L inspiration
appe V i m eeting 2024
14-16 April
Zaragoza, Spain appepiercing.org
fr .a.p.p.e 2024
10-12 May
Bordeaux, France @fr.a.p.p.e_
app a nnua L
Conferen C e and e xpo
23-28 June
Planet Hollywood Resort and Casino, Las Vegas, US safepiercing.org
B mx net
1-4 August
Berlin, Germany bmxnet.org
gep Congress
18-22 August
Sao Paulo, Brazil @gepsafepiercing
ant W erp sus C on
5-6 October
Antwerp, Belgium antwerp-suscon.be
Let’s fi LL this map up! If you know of a conference, expo or open-door event that should be on this page, or have one of your own to promote, send the details to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk
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19
A pioneer of the early UK piercing scene, Quentin i nglis has just celebrated two-and-a-half decades in business.
Louise Hoffman hears his story
there aren’t very many professional piercers who can claim a pedigree of 25 years in the game, let alone 25 years actually running a studio. But that’s exactly the anniversary Quentin Inglis has just celebrated.
It was November 1998 when he first opened the doors of Kalima Emporium in Worthing, south-east England; and it’s here that he sits to speak to me about the job he still loves as much today as he did a quarter-century ago.
But in fact, Quentin’s piercing journey began long before he set up shop – and a world away from this English seaside town. “I spent half of my 20s in India,” he recalls. “I first headed out there in 1988 on a one-way ticket, and when I got off the plane I remember feeling like I’d come home.
“During those years I travelled through India, Nepal, Pakistan, China and Tibet, and spent a lot of time with the Hindu holy
men. They did various practices to try and go beyond physical pain to open up the mental, and to take you to be at one with [the deity] Shiva. I had a strong fascination with that.”
This fascination had also been piqued in childhood, as Quentin recalls seeing an iconic scene in the film The Return of a Man Called Horse where, as part of a Native American initiation ritual, the protagonist has his chest pierced with knife blades, eagle’s talons inserted through
the wounds, and leather thongs attached from which he essentially suspends. “That made a real impact on me; again, with the idea of going beyond pain,” he says.
If India had laid the groundwork for his future career, then arriving back to the UK as the Brighton piercing scene was bursting into bloom was surely the defining moment. John Donoghue’s body jewellery company Wildcat, founded in 1989, was flourishing, and renowned piercer Warren Dean has started Perforations, the first piercing studio in Brighton, with a whole new focus on technical skill and hygiene.
“Meeting Warren at that time
bridged the gap between the West and the East for me; he was talking about the ritualistic side of piercing, which is what I’d seen in India,” Quentin explains.
More than that, it was a meeting that wove all the threads of Quentin’s life together, because “it was whilst having an ampallang, performed by Warren, that I basically left my body, and when I came back into my body I just knew I had to be a piercer.”
In those days apprenticeships weren’t really a thing. Quentin applied for one with Warren but it went to someone else – a stark reminder that the path to destiny isn’t necessarily an automatic or easy one.
Thankfully, he was undeterred. “I still really wanted to do piercing, so I bought myself some sterilising equipment and got started... in the bus I was living in at the time!” he laughs.
“It was two-and-a-half years before I felt comfortable enough to work out of a studio – I wanted to make sure I’d done all types of piercing at least once. As soon as I’d done an ampallang I thought, right, I’m ready!”
His first studio job came in early 98. “I went into partnership with someone who already had a shop. Initially it was, well, not a 50p shop exactly, but certainly one that sold other stuff, with a piercing area at the very back,” he remembers.
Later that year came the launch of Kalima Emporium, a few doors down on the same road in Worthing – but it still bore little resemblance to studios of today. “In those days things were very different,” Quentin explains. “The windows were boarded over and painted – that was what tattoo and piercing shops used to be like, as there was very much this idea that it wasn’t acceptable, so people didn’t necessarily want to be seen sitting inside.
“It wasn’t until the year 2000, when I came back after having my daughter, that I opened the whole shop front up. But lots of clients still didn’t want to be spotted – it just wasn’t socially acceptable, even then.”
Trying to secure premises in the first place wasn’t easy either, and Quentin recalls tattooists and piercers having to euphemistically describe their businesses as ‘jewellery shops’ in order to get a lease.
“Even the medical companies didn’t want to sell to us – whereas now we’ve got specific brochures designed for us!” he laughs.
“I remember contacting one company to order needles and they were like, ‘We don’t sell to
people like you’. Yet, they would sell to a third party who would then sell to us, just so they had that degree of separation! But that’s how it was. I think once these companies realised that piercers and tattooists would pay straight away, that’s when they suddenly went, ‘Ok, this might actually be quite good business!’
“Everything back in the early days was a lot more basic too,” he continues. “There wasn’t the array of jewellery there is now, so your displays were more simplistic – bars, rings, a few navel bananas, stuff like that. People also had to make their own jewellery by hand if there was something specific they needed! Then suddenly there was a bit of an explosion around the years 2000 and 2001, when I suppose piercing became a little bit more accepted and so you had shops becoming more open and focused on jewellery.”
It’s fair to say that these aren’t the only changes Quentin has witnessed over the years, so I’m curious to know what he misses from those early days – and, on the other hand, what he’s glad to see the back of.
“In the early days my clients were a lot more like my friends – it was a much smaller scene and so the people in it were a lot more similar in terms of the way they lived,” he replies.
“The best way to sum it up is by my catchphrase at the time, which was ‘my body is a temple but it’s also an amusement park’. People wanted to experiment a lot more with their bodies; lots of stuff we wouldn’t do now, we tried to do then. And that feeling you had on those days; that part of it I miss. Then of course you had the whole body mod scene, which was obviously a really exciting time.
“Maybe it was partly because we were a lot younger then, and it was newer for us,” he reflects. “I guess everyone has the same thing – the period you come through at, no matter your age, will always be the best period, and then things slowly change.”
Social media has, of course, been one of the biggest revolutions in recent times, and Quentin feels ambivalently towards it. “As good as it is for our business, I still find it quite hard to deal with,” he admits, “especially coming from a generation that didn’t want people to know what we did – now it’s the complete opposite, where you say everything you do!
“In one way, the lack of acceptance in the early days was quite nice because the scene was a lot more ‘outlaw’,” he laughs. “But I suppose it’s also nice now, to never have to worry when I go into a restaurant or pub that I’m going to be asked to leave because of the way I look. The judgement has gone out of society a little bit – it’s probably strange for people to think about it, but it is so much different these days. People weren’t even able to work if they had nose piercings 20 years ago!”
In his 25-plus years, Quentin has notched up a fair number of accolades to his name, many of which relate to his work in body modification – before much of it ceased to be performed in the UK. Indeed, he explains that he was the first British-born modifier to offer many procedures, from ear reconstruction, to sub- and trans-dermal implants, to tongue
splitting. So it comes as no surprise that he holds other modifiers in high esteem.
“Meeting Samppa was probably one of the most pivotal moments of my life; he’s a very good friend of mine. And I have a huge amount of respect for the early modifiers, such as Brian Decker and Lukas Zpira, and Ryan Ouellette, Ron Garza and Wayde Dunn for scarification.”
These days, his services at Kalima include piercing and diathermic tattooing, plus a little bit of hand-poked tattooing for friends, working alongside studio manager and piercer, Rosie. But what, I’m keen to find out, is the secret to staying in business through two-and-a-half decades of constant change?
“Oh, luck? I don’t know!” he laughs. “I mean, I still love my job and I still love coming to work. I don’t really run my business as a business; I’m probably quite an unsuccessful business person. But I came through the anarchist punk movement, so I feel guilty as hell that I’ve got a business in many respects!
“I think taking time out helps. In the early days in particular there was a bit of a belief that if you didn’t live and breathe piercing six days a week then you weren’t really into it, and lots of people ended up burning out as a result.
“Doing a lot of hours when you first start is great, but it’s unsustainable for most people. So that’s probably the secret –thinking about it long-term. I did six days for a while at first, but then I looked at it and thought, ‘I want to do this for the rest of my life’ – which means making
sure you don’t overdo it and end up hating the job.”
When asked what exactly it is that he loves about the job – still, to this day – Quentin doesn’t miss a beat: it’s people.
“I pierce everyone from junkies to judges, and I love that crosssection of society you see. It forces you to not judge people on what they look like, which works both ways – I’ve often been judged because of how I look, but I’ve also seen people within the communities I’ve lived judging others on how they look. Meeting wonderful people who look completely different to you and have completely different aspirations to you gives you the chance to see people as people. I think that keeps things very healthy – I don’t just see the same people with the same views; I meet a whole wide spectrum of the world.
“I also love the interaction between people; I love seeing them facing their fears and coming out the other side; seeing them suddenly enter into this new, super-exciting world, how it helps them to come to terms
with issues they perhaps have with themselves, mentally or physically, and the strength it can give them to face up to things. The human part of it is what I really love about it.”
Twenty-five years later, it’s abundantly obvious that this is precisely what has kept Quentin in business – in terms of both personal passion and studio ethos.
“I’ve always wanted to run the business in a clean and sound way, giving people the best, most personal service for the fairest price possible, because however good a piercer you are, you still need people to come through the door to be pierced by you – what makes us is our clients.
“Never did I think back when I started the shop that we’d still be here 25 years later. I’m very proud that we’ve been going this long. Now I get people I pierced when they were younger bringing in their children to be pierced. Wait until they bring in their grandkids; then I’m going to be like, ‘Oh my god, now I really am old!’”
@kalima_emporium
For this special anniversary and New Year issue, the UKAPP’s Public Outreach/Vice President Becky c r ossan reminds us to celebrate every step of our progress
Whether you’re a newer piercer or you’ve been in the industry a long time, you’re sure to understand that improving what you do and how you run your business is a slow process. For most of us, making that ‘one giant leap’ towards our goals is unrealistic and we have to make do with constantly taking baby steps in the right direction. And with those small steps, it’s easy to lose track of the journey and start to become disheartened. However, it’s important to not lose focus and forget how much you have already achieved.
Make 2024 the year you start measuring the progress you’ve made – even the little things! I’ve written previously about breaking your goals down into much smaller tasks and this still remains my favourite recommendation for moving forward. Whether you use checklists, Gantt charts or journalling, keeping a measure of each step that you need to complete to achieve the result you want is so important. But it’s equally as important to record all of those successes and celebrate them!
Look upon each small change that you make as a mini achievement in itself. You may not have reached where you want to be, but if you can
About the u K APP
The U k a s sociation of Professional Piercers (U k a P P) is a not-for-profit health and safety organisation dedicated to spreading knowledge of safe piercing practices and up-to-date information for industry professionals and the general public.
The organisation has a list of criteria that industry professionals are required to meet in order to become a member of the organisation. This includes environmental criteria, jewellery standards, and health and safety criteria such as being trained in first aid and blood-borne pathogens.
The UKAPP also holds an annual educational conference.
For more information, visit ukapp.org.uk
look back and identify the ways in which you’re already so far from where you started this journey, it’s sure to keep you motivated and pushing forward in the more difficult times. Big tasks can sometimes seem insurmountable and it’s easy to get despondent when your final goal looks to be so far off in the distance, but taking time to celebrate your progress can help you persevere.
Many piercers spend a lot of time online, and although the piercing groups can be great sources of information, they can also cause you to compare yourself to others. You must remember that everyone’s circumstances are different and somebody else’s success doesn’t make you a failure by comparison. Measuring your progress means only comparing yourself to where you were a month, a year or five years ago. Comparison outside of that is only going to set you off track.
Treat yourself kindly, celebrate your wins (no matter how small), and make sure to keep moving forward at whatever pace you can achieve. I have no doubt that when you look back at your progress in a year’s time, you’ll be closer to your goals than ever!
It’s official – to celebrate our first anniversary, The Sharp End is launching merch!
Prefacing the big reveal, here we meet the artist behind the first design, Cra I g John , who is also the magazine’s very own creative genius
How long have you been a graphic designer?
I’ve been a designer for about 18 years or so. Originally I wanted to be a cartoonist, as I’ve been into art and creating things ever since I was little. At college I got interested in design while doing some set projects. I enjoyed the journey of taking an initial idea to a finished thing – a feeling I still get these days too!
When did you start your clothing brand, Glorious Nightmare, and what’s the story behind it?
I started working on art pieces for bands and other clothing brands and had a blast making things that people wanted to wear to support either the band/ brand or my work. I liked the idea of having my own brand, with designs that people would hopefully enjoy wearing as much as I enjoy creating.
What gives you inspiration for your art?
I get inspired by lots of things really; a song I love and connect with, things I see out and about that capture my attention, my love of horror films and vinyls. Music and art are my biggest passions so they definitely play a big part in what I do.
A couple that were big things for me were, firstly, getting to work with Papa Roach as I LOVE that band and have since day one. Over the years of Glorious Nightmare I got to know Jerry (guitarist and super awesome person); he’s supported my art and worn my tees on stage, and it blew my mind when the band asked me to design a shirt for their tour/online store. I am and will be forever grateful to them for it all.
The other was a tribute piece to one of my icons growing up, Keith Flint, who sadly passed a few years back. This I did for a fundraising event for the mental health charity, Mind. Liam and Maxim kindly signed it for me and it sold for more than £1,200. I donated every penny to Mind. This was an extremely proud moment and, again, I will be forever grateful for that and to Maxim and Liam for their support. To the kind person who bought it (you know who you are!), thank you again!
You’ve had some other pretty big names wearing your T-shirt designs too, right?
What are the coolest design projects you’ve worked on?
I’ve been very fortunate to have some cool opportunities through art.
To be honest, anyone who likes my work, wears my tees or picks up some of my art means the world to me. It’s those people who make it possible for me to carry on doing what I love, so a massive thank you goes out to them for the support! But to answer your question, I’ve been lucky enough for Jerry Horton (Papa Roach, as mentioned above) and Dougie Poynter (McFly) to own and wear some
1. ‘Ghosts’ print 2. ‘Firestarter’ tribute to Keith Flint 3. ‘Warriors’ Papa Roach 29 Mee T THe arTI sT
of my designs. I also sent some to Jim Root (Slipknot) a few years back – big thanks to them too.
Now you’ve turned your pen to a super special tarot-inspired design for The Sharp End’s first anniversary! Tell us a bit about the work that goes into designs like these...
Yeah, this was a fun one to do, especially as it’s for the anniversary issue of this awesome magazine. It’s so mind-blowing seeing all the people who are supporting it – respect!
I tried something a little different with this design, using lines to shade the piece and add some depth on the hand and fingers and a few other places.
The usual process for me is to sketch up a quick idea to get the composition right and then create a more detailed pencil drawing, which I then hand-ink into the final artwork. I love hand-inking as I get lost in it, like an escape from reality.
This artwork is then scanned and made print-ready, coloured (if needs be) and then the final printed shirt arrives –very exciting!
What items can readers lay their hands on for this anniversary collection? And are there any other new products in the pipeline for GN?
There’s a white and black tee for The Sharp End, with front pocket logo and big back print featuring the custom tarot card design, which is also available as a back patch.
Meanwhile, there are three new shirts for Glorious Nightmare (GN CO), and readers can get 20% off these with the code: TSE20. There are also some new prints that I’ve added to the store. Head over to shopgn.co to see the full range!
Lastly, what would be your ultimate dream design project or collaboration?
Erm, wow that’s a hard one to answer. There are so many, but I’d particularly love to work with Papa Roach again, Billie Joe Armstrong (Green Day), Gavin Rossdale (Bush) and Dave Grohl to name a few!
@craigjohnart
Without further ado, The Sharp End merch is unveiled!
Official magazine merch for needle-wielding wizards
ONLY £23
ONLY £23
T-shirt in black with Ace of Sharps back design and The Sharp End pocket logo (available in gender neutral and fitted)
T-shirt in white with Ace of Sharps back design and The Sharp End pocket logo (available in gender neutral and fitted)
Ace of Sharps back patch in black 3.
2. 1.
Wednesday, 15 February
Struggling with the endless and ever-changing demands of social media?
Whether you’re a studio owner, self-employed piercer or front-of-house, here are some top tips to help you engage your audience, manage your time and conquer those algorithms
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If there’s one thing I keep telling my clients, it’s that consistency is key on social media. Consistency of posting, consistency of visuals and consistency of tone are vital because they help you to build recognition and trust with your target audience.
While best practice may dictate that it’s essential to post at least once a day, I don’t necessarily subscribe to that principle. It leads to lots of pressure when you’re already trying to run a business! Instead, commit to posting as often as you feel comfortable. That might be two or three times per week on your chosen platforms – either is fine, as long as it’s consistent. This means that your followers will get used to seeing your posts and begin to look forward to them, all while making the algorithm happy. Most social platforms favour active accounts, so regular updates will send the right signals.
If you can, try to keep the visual style of your posts consistent too. Stick to a particular colour palette or composition, so people instantly recognise your content when they see it, whatever platform they’re on. And make the tone of voice consistent. This will give your followers a sense of what it’s like to work with you and ensure your marketing is authentic.
Chloe Victoria, Evergreen Studio, CoventrySocial media has blown up in the last couple of years, meaning as piercers we’ve had to suddenly figure out how to navigate it in the best way for our businesses. As somebody who has grown up with the expansion of the internet, these are some things I’ve learnt that should be beneficial to you.
Firstly, I also believe that consistency is key. Consistency builds a brand. And I’m not just talking about posting at the same time every day; it’s about having all content streamlined so perfectly that anyone could look at a photo or a post and know that it’s your business before reading anything. All photos should have the same background, lighting and editing. All posts should have the same font, backgrounds and format. people should be able to look at your content and somehow know a little about you before even meeting!
now, the most important part of any brand, any business, is YOU; especially in our industry, where people put an incredible amount of trust in us. Being personable through social media is unbelievably important – it gives potential clients an insight into who you are and your personality; it makes people feel welcome before they’ve even set foot through the door. We all want to make sure our clients feel comfortable with us, so why not start from the very beginning.
@chloevictoriapiercer
methodmarketing.org
For our studio, we like to differentiate ourselves by including a lot of our personality in our content. We can spend all day planning out and recording a TikTok or Instagram reel, as I don’t like to make content feel rushed. Ultimately, we’re looking to earn long-term clients who choose our studio because they like us as people! And I think it’s easy to forget that piercing people we feel comfortable around is also so much more rewarding.
I believe bonding with clients is very important, and I like to show my vulnerability in videos to make the experience a lot more human. I think people are much more inclined to come back when they feel like they know you. We often have first-time clients return a week or two later, mainly because they enjoy the atmosphere of the studio so much. We also work with people who are extremely nervous about getting pierced, so a little comedy relief is vital... I think so, at least!
Helen Houghton, Holier Than Thou, ManchesterSocial media is such an important tool in your arsenal when running a business. Generally, I find the most valuable social media platform (for repeat, reliable clients) to be Instagram. We therefore focus most of our efforts there, and allow it to ‘populate through’ to other platforms.
Focus on your target clients – they might not be TikTok age, so consider your content and platforms carefully to avoid wasted effort.
Fitting social media in around your other demands can be incredibly challenging, so share the weight where possible. At hTT I’m lucky enough to share the Instagram messages and posts with our incredible Social Media Manager, Sage Modi, while our front-of-house helps with answering emails and Facebook messages.
If you don’t have anyone to assist you just yet, set aside half an hour in the morning and evening to answer messages. There are apps that allow you to programme posts to go live whilst you’re working or enjoying muchneeded downtime. This keeps up the necessary consistency without burning yourself out.
I find clients (and the algorithm) show most interest in the pEOpLE behind a piercing business, so don’t be afraid to show your face (especially on the story!) and give information and tips alongside clear, crisp examples of your work.
@holierthanthoumanchester
The best part of my job is feeling like I’ve really made an impact on someone as my true self and not some sort of ‘customer service façade’. @seraph.piercer
There’s
Plan. Are you going to do a series of posts on specific placements, write some public service announcements, highlight suppliers? Map out what that looks like. Rotate a variety of different posts to keep yourself interested – if you are excited by the post then the chances are your audience will be too!
What time are you posting? Try scheduling for evenings/late afternoons, or after lunch on a Sunday. Think about when you scroll, but also get to know your audience. Use the analytics/insights on posts and pitch your posts to that demographic – or work on trying new ways of changing your content in order to attract a different sector.
Share other piercers’ posts. Not only is this supportive, but it increases both of your audiences as well as filling some gaps you may have when time has not been your friend.
You don’t always have to be selling something.
if someone you know constantly asks you for money, then eventually you’re likely to start avoiding them. Think about this when planning your content.
Use a trending sound or style of photograph/ reel; it may not be your choice but it will give you a far better chance of content being pushed to a wider audience that may not already be following you.
List out the hashtags you want to use or be included with, then mix and match them and increase and decrease them. as with everything, we can’t expect different outcomes if we do the same thing every day.
Social media is ever-changing, but planning ahead allows you to experiment, note what works for your studio and what to avoid, what to revisit and what to expand on. Try different ideas on different platforms, and remember – one size definitely does not fit all!
The Flux Piercing team, Worthing
FRONT AND BACK
PRINTED
SOCIAL: @GLORIOuSNIGHTmARE
FRONT AND BACK PRINTED
FRONT AND BACK PRINTED
Following on from the piercing-in-print overview of the past two issues, Nash Brya Nt, a volunteer for the Body Piercing Archive, tells us why Intim-Schmuck deserves a spotlight
a particular personal favourite, Intim-Schmuck
This German publication ran from 1986 to the early 2000s, and while it was a relatively short-lived magazine, the content was exceptional. The name translates in English to ‘Intimate Jewellery’, and on that subject it certainly delivered.
Previously, the Body Piercing a rchive (BPa ) has presented an overview of some of our favourite content from the archive for t he Sharp End . With
such a wide range of print material in the collection, we thought it would be helpful, or at the very least interesting, to highlight some of the lesser-known publications.
d ue to the explicit nature of the content, much of piercing’s history in print isn’t widely available and certainly isn’t preserved by larger institutional archives, hence why the BPA was formed and continues to catalogue and stabilise this material. With all of that in mind, let’s take a deeper dive into
Straddling a pornomag-meets-jewellerycatalogue aesthetic, Intim-Schmuck managed to stay gritty and erotic while elevating genital piercing by showing unique and fully custom fine jewellery pieces on a wide range of piercings. With extravagant gold and gem-filled jewellery, Intim-Schmuck was certainly singular when it came to creatively intertwining visionary fine jewellery design with genital piercings.
The magazine was very frank about the sexual and erotic potential of piercings, even going so far as to show photographs of penetrative sex, as if to say: “Look! How beautiful! You can have these adornments and still have sex!”
The full colour photographs of dangling fairies and chalcedony fish, amidst a range of piercings from horizontal hoods to nipples, showcase a breadth of creativity and collaboration.
The high-quality photos have a studio photography aesthetic while the subject matter always feels like a joyous celebration of adornment and eroticism.
u nfortunately, only some of the text has been translated as we’ve been working on other projects, but what has been translated shows similarities to other publications from the body modification culture of the late 20th century.
c ontent ranged from readers’ questions being answered in a monthly column, to information on healing times and aftercare, and even detailed explanations of the erotic functionality of piercings.
r eaders were also encouraged to send in photos of their own piercings, and that section is always such a wonderful display of the diversity of bodies and modifications.
The healing aftercare given by the magazine states that most genital piercings take 14 days to six weeks to heal, which is certainly optimistic and, given what we know now, a little unrealistic. Aside from that, most information being shared was educational and aligned with contemporary piercers’ practices.
The subjecT maTTer always feels like a joyous celebraTion of adornmenT and eroTicism
By inducting novices into the world of genital piercing, Intim-Schmuck seemingly had something for everyone. By never favouring one kind of genital over another and being very explicit about the form and function of genital piercing, the content stands out from its contemporaries.
o ther magazines that dealt with the same subject matter, such as PFIQ , had a more serious and technical tone and didn’t always include colour photographs, mainly due to the high cost of printing at the time. These publications certainly laid the groundwork for creating greater access to this information and certainly preceded IntimSchmuck , however the playful and erotic-forward approach to the subject is why I am such a fan of this particular entry into the discourse. A fantastic magazine overall, for enthusiasts and novices alike.
u ntil more information can be gleaned from translation, I hope sharing images from this stellar magazine will inspire folks and remind us that there is still so much potential for experimentation and expression within the landscape of body piercing and adornment.
@bodypiercingarchive
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SUPER FAST CARBON NEUTRAL SHIPPING... ... AND WE PLANT TREES FOR EVERY ORDER!Over the following pages
I’m going to take you through a few of the considerations you need to address when piercing a forward helix from back to front. As with most piercings, you can tackle them in a host of different ways, but I’d like to walk you through my go-to method.
I believe these simple tips will help you when taking on more complex multiple forward helix curations as much as they will with a classic single piece.
Here’s a step-by-step guide to take you through the process...
1 First off, when performing a forward helix piercing from back to front, you need to consider the needle you will be using. The most common will be a U-bend made on a blade needle, with the bevel facing out from the bend. The length of the needle may vary depending on your preference; in the image, a two-inch needle is shown.
2 When bending the needle, it’s important not to kink or crush the needle or bevel in any way, as this would cause trauma to the client as well as potentially making the client bleed more due to the shape of the wound you create.
3 Marking is the next thing to consider, looking at the client’s anatomy to work out the correct positioning of the jewellery.
You need to find a placement that accommodates both the attachment and the labret post. Remember to take into account the extra length of the initial post you need, making sure it won’t sit against the tissue.
4 The marking shown here is what I tend to use so that I can visualise the different considerations, like where the ear meets and joins to the head as well as my reference for the angle of the post and the exit point.
5 When you line up using the marks and have the needle in the position for you to pierce, you simply pull the needle forward, allowing the bevel to do the work for you.
6 Here are some healed piercings to show the result you can achieve!
@ollytoddpiercing @cognition.training
Based at Factotum in Norwich, Olly todd has been piercing since around 2008.
A regular speaker at the UKAPP Conference and Piercer Trade Show, as well as teaching at BMXnet in Germany and a host of private studio events, his educational work has rapidly expanded
since 2019. Having launched Cognition Training in 2021, he now delivers online and in-person seminars to body art professionals across the world, as well as fully regulated First Aid at Work courses; the Level 2 Award in Infection, Prevention and Control; and UK-specific blood-borne pathogen training for piercers.
Meet the expert
we talk about self care, we often focus on the mental health side of it. When we think about our body ailments, we focus on the physical symptoms.
We treat our mental and physical health as separate entities, when in actual fact they are one. n ot only does how we think change how our bodies feel, but how our bodies feel changes how we think.
i ’m sure you’ve all heard of the effects of stress on the nervous system. Very basically, there are two branches of our nervous system: the sympathetic, which is our ‘fight-or-flight’ response, and the parasympathetic, which is ‘rest and digest’.
Primally, the fight-orflight response was only supposed to be used in life-or-death situations, such as a lion trying to eat us. i n these situations, our body doesn’t need to digest, detoxify or regenerate cells, it just needs to keep us alive, so it releases emergency energy stores, hormones and adrenalin. Once we
i n the first of a new series, piercer and self-care teacher Jess s ell Ars explores the connection between the mind and the body, and explains why it’s so important to take a holistic view of wellbeing
are safe, the parasympathetic kicks in again, and we are able to rest and digest.
i f our nervous system is well regulated, it will respond appropriately in this way. b alance is key.
b ut unfortunately, living in a modern-day society, a lot of us have a dysregulated nervous system. i t doesn’t know how to respond; if stressors are always present, our fight/flight/freeze response always stays on. Then, when our nervous system gets confused, what used to be a minor inconvenience like forgetting where you left your car keys can elicit a massive physical and emotional response.
i f our body is constantly working to ‘save’ our life, it’s literally draining our resources, and it has no time or energy for rest and digest, which is vital for our health.
Too much exposure to cortisol (the stress hormone) disrupts almost all bodily functions –indeed, chronic stress has been linked to high blood pressure, gastritis, adrenal fatigue, autoimmune diseases and more. However, at a time when the number of people living with chronic illness and autoimmune diseases is astronomical, no one really talks about how stress and trauma can be a key cause. Doctors are not trained to look at the person as a whole, just their symptoms, so we may be prescribed medication but rarely is there an investigation to find the root of the problem. (If you’re interested in all of this, check out physician and author Gabor Maté).
So, what’s the solution? Just reduce stress? That’s all they ever tell us, right? Like it’s that easy! And when we think about reducing stress we assume it’s all psychological, right?
Wrong. You cannot start to heal your nervous system without looking at the whole picture. The word ‘heal’ comes from the Old English for ‘make whole’ or ‘wholeness’. Healing our nervous system is as much a physical job as it is a mental one. It needs to take in all aspects of life, from our environment and social factors to what we consume and how we move.
We often try to control our thinking to regulate
when we think about reducing stress we assume it’s all psychological, right? wrong.
our anxious state, when our body is having a very physical reaction. We call this ‘top down’. b ut we can take a ‘bottom up’ approach by accessing our brains through our bodies. When you can learn to calm your body, you can learn to soothe the fight-or-flight response and create a physical and chemical change in your brain that makes it easier to think more calmly and clearly.
Often we pay little to no attention to our body, until it tells us something is wrong. I remember when my hair started to fall out and I had no idea why; they told me it was stress but I didn’t even feel that stressed. I was so used to being in a constant state of it that I thought it was the norm. I genuinely
could not tell that I was stressed until my body started to show me.
We spend so much time in our heads that we forget to be present in the body too – to tune in and to see what it needs. We forget to even give it basic things like nourishment and rest. How many of us skip lunch? Have bad backs? Work or stay up scrolling until 1am? We treat our bodies like machines – in fact, I’m pretty sure some of us look after our Statims better than we look after ourselves!
If our bodies are depleted, so are our minds; and if our minds are exhausted, so are our bodies. It’s one continuous loop, and that’s why they need to work in harmony with one another.
When I first started teaching self care, my main focus was on the mental health side; I touched on the physical, but not really. The deeper I go into the subject, the more I realise you cannot separate them. They are one.
@jessicat_piercing
@_lunarising
Stay tuned
Next time, Jess deep dives into some of the changes we can make to restore the mind-body connection and work towards improving our wellness.
I’ve been piercing for around fiveand-a-half years, starting part time, and then building up my time at the studio and the business since then.
I got into the industry after a visit to my hometown by @holyghost_ piercing. We were out having some food and got into a conversation based on my initial interest, which then developed into all aspects of piercing and her journey. By the end of the conversation she had suggested I visit her in Rotherham for some initial shadowing and training, with the aim (if all went well) to develop knowledge and skills over time with more trips up north.
I’ll always be incredibly grateful to Olive for the opportunity, the team at the studio she works in and the people around me at the time for everything they did for me during those early days – for their time, patience, encouragement and faith in me, and for starting this magnificent journey I’ve been on since.
interest in or things I was curious about that aren’t available in the UK.
Because of that first year of attendance, I had the confidence both professionally and socially to return to Germany for my second BMXnet conference in Berlin last year. There is a magnetic energy and light around the event; I can see myself attending for many years to come and I cannot recommend it enough.
I firmly believe such events have helped me develop my knowledge and skill set as a piercer and as a person. I have some beautiful memories that I will cherish; I’ve had the opportunity to spend time with peers I respect and admire; and I’ve made some lifetime friends to boot!
One of the things I’m most proud of is stepping out of my comfort zone and my little bubble in Somerset to attend the BMXnet conference in Essen, Germany, in 2022. This four-day spectacle that covers body piercing, body
modification, scarification, suspension and tattooing took my learning to a whole new level. It offered me the opportunity not only to develop myself as a piercer, but to attend a whole range of classes covering areas that I had an
The main thing I’d like other piercers to take from this is to believe in yourself. Fight the imposter syndrome that will make you feel like you can’t attend new events and classes or speak to people to discuss techniques, experiences and studio setup etc.
We are very blessed to be around a community of people who are warm, welcoming and more than happy to assist in personal learning.
@darksidepiercingfrome
For this issue’s slice of empowerment, Le I gh e vans of Darkside Piercing Frome in Somerset explains how industry events have changed his life
