The Sharp End - Apr/May 2024

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THE MAGAZIN E FOR PIERCING PROFESSIONALS > APR / MAY 2024
Healt H c H eck The wellbeing basics Work your c H arm Delec Table D angle D esigns t ime for tec H nique g uiche gui D ance
WWW.TISHLYON.COM Tish Lyon Jewellery tish_lyon_gold tish_lyon

Welcome to

Welcome to this spring edition of The Sharp End! The season got off to a busy start with two UK-based industry events in March, helping piercing professionals make the most of the renewed energy that comes with the fresh growth and returning light around us.

First up was the Wee scottish Piercing Expo held in Edinburgh, which is a brand-new event in the UK calendar. then, following hot on its heels was the Piercer trade show in Manchester, which is now in its third year. i was delighted to attend both events as a vendor, to hand out stickers and copies of the magazine and to meet you lovely lot in person. thank you to everyone who stopped to say hello, find out more about The Sharp End, and share ideas! You can read a little review of these events on pages 8 and 10, and find out what they have in store for you next. there are so many opportunities to learn, grow and network these

days, with new events across the world being added to the diary every year – just turn to page 14 and you’ll see what i mean! Not to mention the accessible online education delivered by the likes of Cognition training, the Association of Professional Piercers (APP) and more.

the industry really is energised and gaining so much traction. in fact, that’s exactly what Becky Crossan of the UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP) celebrates in her comment column for this issue – just look how far we’ve come!

Big love – and hope you enjoy the free sticker inside this issue, courtesy of Hialeah Fine Jewelry.

Editor-in-chief l ouise Hoffman editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk Creative Director Craig John @craigjohnart to find out how to advertise in The Sharp End , please email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk Find us the-sharp-end.co.uk Get social – follow us @thesharpend_magazine The Sharp End Magazine Cover image Pieces by Norvoch, ler oi, Hialeah, Buddha Jewelry; turn to page 16

03 Editor’s l E tt Er the editor and publishers do not guarantee the accuracy of statements made by contributors or advertisers, or accept responsibility for any statement they express or advice they give in this publication. t he opinion of the contributors may not necessarily be the opinion of the editor or publishers. All content including the presentation thereof in this magazine is the property of the editor and protected by international copyright laws. You may not copy, reproduce, distribute, transmit, modify, create derivative works, or in any other way exploit any part of copyrighted material without prior written permission from the editor. ©2024 Louise Hoffman
Printed by Page Bros, Norwich
IMAGE: J AM iE Bolto N @ A .s H ort.i NtE rl UdE

wo rk your charm

From elegant drops, to chain tassels, to totem symbols – this issue’s jewellery showcase is sure to charm the pants off you 16 _

06 News aNd views

All the latest industry news and updates from the piercing community

14 dates for your diary

Don’t miss these exciting industry events taking place in the UK and further afield over the coming months

24 road to success

The UKAPP’s Becky Crossan takes a moment to celebrate just how far the industry has come

26 BehiNd the sceNes

Find out about Norvoch’s in-house manufacturing process at this year’s APP Conference

28 Back to Basics

In the second instalment of her wellness series, Jess Sellars reminds us of the basic essentials that are key in improving our mental and physical health

35 PreserviNg the Past Devin Ruiz-Altamura of the Body

Piercing Archive provides some top tips for preserving your personal collections

38 vaNishiNg acts

The old-school teen magazine photo story gets an industry reboot in this classic tale of studio despair...

45 time for techNique

Joining us from Canada, renowned piercer Matthew Masterton walks us through that most intimate of piercings: the guiche (contains images of genital piercing)

50 eNd-Note iNsPo

T hrough this heartfelt origin story, Katy French of Pierce & Love Forever gives us the courage to continue, even when we’re at our lowest ebb

28_ 16_ 38_

04 CONTENTS
iN s ide this issue
1-WEEK LEAD TIMES MANUFACTURED IN CALIFORNIA BEST IN CLASS CUSTOMER SERVICE SHOP IN YOUR OWN CURRENCY NO ORDER MINIMUM NM_P24002 NEOMETAL.COM | @NEOMETALJEWELRY There’s a reason NeoMetal is perfect for your first piercing, and it’s the same reason to come back again and again: high-quality materials, true craftsmanship, and flawless details. WE MAKE CLASSICS, YOU MAKE THEM YOUR OWN.

New Notti N gham studio ope N s its doors

Piercer Laura Ramsay and her fiancé, tattoo artist Dan (aka The Hores), cut the ribbon to their very own studio, 7th Chamber Tattoo and Piercing, during a special launch event on 14 February.

Located on the top floor of 20 James Street, Kimberley, Nottingham, the studio will be offering piercings (with an initial focus on ear and nose before moving into body and facial piercing in the summer) alongside tattooing.

“It was a natural progression for Dan and I to open our own studio and make the dream a reality,” says Laura. “The aim was to create a space that is calm and contemporary, with influences from eastern cultures and our love of hip hop.” with just one month in which to get the studio ready, they really had to put in the hours, as Laura explains: “I was working in pubs in the evenings whilst learning new skills to design and build our website, and Dan did the decorating with help from a gentleman called Lyn. we both worked to our strengths, which turned out to be a good balance – Dan hates forms and I can’t draw or do DIY!”

Operating with core values of integrity, collaboration, customer focus and respect for individuals, Laura and Dan are passionate about their business. “we’ve always wanted to open our own studio, and now we have it, we both feel like we can push forward and make it a success.”

@7th.chambertattooandpiercing

06 New S All the latest industry news and updates from
piercing
the
community
Images: e mm A F OrD @emm AFO rD ph OTO gr A ph Y

Taun Ton business going for T he double

Eternal Beauty (UK) Ltd in Taunton, Somerset, has been selected as a finalist for Best Body Piercing at the 2024 National Beauty Awards, as well as Best Customer Service at the 2024 UK Small Business Awards!

Thrilled with the news, Managing Director Ben England says: “As a small, family-run business we love what we do and make sure we do everything we can to provide the best service possible, so it’s amazing to have our hard work recognised on a national stage.

“I have been piercing for a little under 10 years and love the art and meeting new people. We are fortunate that we have a nice private studio within our business premises, which enables us to provide a personal, unrushed service to the people who book in with us.”

Both awards ceremonies take place later in the year, and the team are keeping their fingers crossed for those two winning titles. “We are excited for the awards – and to see what else 2024 holds for us!” Ben enthuses.

Piercer PeTs

First up to share the floof in this brand-new series is Pinchy of Voodoo Body Piercing, Barnstaple...

Name: Vega Age: 3 Fave treat: Wotsits Best quality: Cuddly Trademark dick move: Opening the fridge and trying to climb inside.

If you’d like your pet to make a cameo in the magazine, get in touch via Instagram @thesharpend_magazine or email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk

piercer Trade Show back

wiTh a bang for 2024

March saw the piercer Trade Show return to Manchester central, alongside the Tattoo Tea party, for its third edition.

In a brand new space within the exhibition centre, the event brought speakers, vendors and attendees together for a day of learning, networking and shopping, with a dedicated piercing area manned by Cristiano Aielli and Olly Todd. education was provided by expert piercers Jane Absinth, on the subject of freehand techniques;

Loreia of Unknown Pleasures

Piercing, on the thorny issue of money; and APP VP Cale Belford, who discussed ear complexity.

Meanwhile, the UKAPP, Industrial strength UK, stiletto UK, Apex Hand Crafted Body Jewellery, NeoMetal, NeilMed, Anatometal UK, Buddha Jewelry, Tsar Jewelry, Danila Tarcinale, Cognition Training and The Sharp End were all in attendance to showcase their wares and services.

A special raffle, including prizes donated by vendors, raised £1,160

for Heal this way, a mental health support charity that’s run by piercers, for piercers. Find them @heal.this.way

Big congratulations to Nathan Hague and his team for another excellent event!

Tickets are now available for the next event, which takes place at the International Dublin Tattoo Convention on 6 October. Head over to utopiabodyarts.com to secure your spot.

@piercertradeshowuk

The (very unscientific) baromeTer of piercing populariTy!

What’s hot and what’s not as of the end of March? The social media community has spoken...

A big thank you to everyone who took part this time! Keep an eye on our Instagram stories and posts for more polls to get involved with for the next issue of @thesharpend_magazine

08 News
STORMY FAIR
F ROM le AST pO pulAR TO Th IR d MOST p O pulAR , nAvel S ARe OuR hI gheST cl IMbe R! Sun’ S OuT The u SuAl Tu SSle FOR The TO p Sp OT –Th IS TIM e n OSTRI lS WIn. A d ISTIncT lA ck OF l Ip SeRvI ce. l I p R O Ok TOngue bRIdge SuRFAcenIpple SMIleY InduSTRIAl S e p TuM dAITh eYebROW genITAlTRAguS helIx nAvel lObe n O S T R I l

FOOd FOr thOught and sOul at First scOttish expO

Early March brought us the first ever Wee Scottish Piercing Expo, a two-day professional piercing and jewellery event held in the beautiful city of Edinburgh, Scotland.

Taking a holistic approach, event organiser Nikki Lloyd-Proctor of Bold and Gold Piercing Art brought a real focus on wellbeing to this industry expo, with chill-out areas, healthy snacks and free hand and body massage sessions available throughout each day – plus a traditional scottish knees-up for the evening, complete with a live ceilidh band!

The Sharp End was in attendance as a vendor, along with Cognition Training, NeilMed, Danila Tarcinale, Hawn Handmade, sacred symbols, Jodie Metcalfe Jewellery, symmetry Body Jewelry, Industrial strength UK, event supporter stiletto UK and sponsor Buddha Jewelry.

As well as shopping for jewellery and supplies, networking with vendors and fellow piercers and making the most of the live piercing area, attendees listened to multiple industry experts share their knowledge through a series of ‘bit o’ banter’ sessions.

Jess sellars joined Nikki for a discussion about ‘Taking care of business and boundaries’, Elizabeth Moore and Sofi Apter gave invaluable insights into ‘Neurodivergency and perseverance in piercing’; front-ofhouse and studio Manager Rachel Peppiette had plenty of top tips for ‘Golden service’; eugenia Delphine

discussed studio setups from around the world; Olly Todd delivered expert advice for prepping, marking and piercing techniques; J’son D’souza covered the fascinating history of body piercing in India; and Helen Houghton spoke about ‘Understanding skin and gender affirming in piercing’.

Plus, sharing his experiences and feelings, former piercer and body modification artist Mac Mccarthy (aka Dr evil) made a rare guest appearance following his harrowing prosecution in 2019, which changed the face of body modification in the UK.

A raffle held at the expo, plus the profits from an exclusive Body Play Day, which took place immediately after the event, raised £1,660 for charity, with the funds shared between UNICeF, Amplify Gaza and esIMs for Gaza.

Thank you to Nikki, and to Rachel, for their hard work in organising the expo, and to the whole team for welcoming us to such a wholesome event.

The wee scottish Piercing expo will be back for more next year, with dates set for 2 to 3 March 2025. Keep an eye on Instagram, where the ticket launch will be announced during the summer.

@theweescottishpiercingexpo

Over tO yOu

As well as carrying important industry updates, these pages are the place for you, the piercing community, to shout about all of your achievements and developments. so, if for example your studio has held a charity fundraiser, celebrated an anniversary, carried out a refit or rebranding, won an award or hosted an event – please let us know! Likewise, we’d love to hear about any personal achievements, such as graduating apprentices.

There’s a blog on our website with top tips for how to submit a winning piece of content, but at the end of the day, it’s the key details that count!

Send your submissions to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk or tag us in your announcement on Instagram @thesharpend_magazine or Facebook (The Sharp End Magazine).

10 News
IMA g ES : P OPP y M OON @P OPP y RAMBLINMOON

Ace-high

Official magazine merch for needle-wielding wizards
T-shirt in black with Ace of Sharps back design and The Sharp End pocket logo (available in gender neutral and fitted) T-shirt in white with Ace of Sharps back design and The Sharp End pocket logo (available in gender neutral and fitted)
3. ONLY £23 2. 1. ONLY £23 cOMiNg SOON Order NOw At ShOpgN.cO
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for your diary

Here are some of the unmissable industry events taking place in the UK and beyond over the coming months...

uK app

Confe R en C e 2024 15-17 s eptember

Albert Hall, Nottingham ukapp.org.uk

p ieRC eR tRade s how 3.5 6 o ctober

RDS Dublin @piercertradeshowuk

du BL in tattoo Convention 4-6 o ctober

RDS Dublin dublintattooconvention.com

t he w ee sCottish p ieRCin G e xpo 2025

2-3 m arch 2025

The Old Dr Bells Baths, Edinburgh  @theweescottishpiercingexpo

f R. a.p.p.e 2024 10-12 May Bordeaux, France @fr.a.p.p.e_

app a nnua L Confe R en Ce and e xpo 23-28 June Planet Hollywood Resort and Casino, Las Vegas, US safepiercing.org

B mx net 1-4 August Berlin, Germany bmxnet.org

G ep Con GRess 18-22 August Sao Paulo, Brazil @gepsafepiercing

pRofessiona L

p ieRC eR s poL and Confe R en Ce

20-22 September

1 3 4 2 3 2 1 4 i nte R nationa L inspi R ation

app Bene Lux Confe R en Ce 7-8 September Veldhoven, The Netherlands @appbenelux

Gdańsk, Poland @professionalpiercers poland

apa Rito Rno aLLe oR iG ini 22-24 September

Pescara, Italy @ritornoalleorigini.apa

a ntwe R p s us C on 5-6 October

Antwerp, Belgium antwerp-suscon.be

aupp a nnua L pRofessiona L p ieRC eR s Confe R en Ce 21-23 October

Melbourne, Australia safepiercing.org.au

Let’s fi LL this map up! If you know of a conference, expo or open-door event that should be on this page, or have one of your own to promote, send the details to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk

WorkYoUr CHA

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1. Alge A , 14ct yellow gold 2. Mor AnA , 14ct white gold
3.
Zer A phine, 14ct yellow gold 4. VA run A , 14ct yellow gold 5. Mor AnA , 14ct rose gold 6. e le A , 14ct yellow gold 7. e le A , 14ct white gold 8. Brixton, 14ct yellow gold 9. VA run A , 14ct yellow gold
e
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
10. Mor AnA , 14ct yellow gold
11.
lpis,
14ct yellow gold

c harms are the perfect embodiment of our industry’s creativity

– showcasing both the vision of the makers who create such myriad designs, and the piercing professionals who weave them into dazzling curations. c heck out these beauties...

BVLA bvla.com s ho w ca s e
17 Jewellery showcase 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.
Morbius, 14ct yellow gold

“Enchanté c oll E ction©™” fE aturing 26 dangl E charm d E signs in astm f -136 titanium, with siz Es ranging from 3x3mm up to 6x8mm and horizontal or v E rtical dangl E ori E ntations availabl E.

Leroi
p ictur E d d
signs: 1. sEcr E t™ 2. p ortal™ 3. rEalm™ 4. tok E n™ 5. c harm™ www.leroi.com S HO W CA S E 18 J EWEll E ry SHOWCASE 5. 3. 1. 2. 4.
E
JeweLry This way 1. Cat’s Ey E , 14 Ct y E l low gold C at h E a d with flush-s E t g E m 2 h a ngin to ugh, thr E a dl E s s g E m w ith C h ain and a C CE nt g E m ( pi Ct ur E d styl E : 14 Ct whit E gold C a bl E C h ain, long) lo st b oys, dangling C h ain availabl E in 10-plus different chain styles (pi Ct ur E d: 3. tripl E twist E d 14 Ct ros E gold C a bl E C h ain with fa C E t E d b arr E l s, long; 4. tripl E 14 Ct y E l low gold wh E at C h ain, short; 5. doubl E 14 Ct w hit E gold box C h ain, short) jewelrythisway.com 19 Jewellery showcase 2. 5. 4. 1. 3.

1. ‘Moonstoned’, 14ct white gold with genuine M oonstone

3. ‘ t wo tone tassel’, 14ct yellow and R ose gold

2. ‘Rude Qua Rtz’, 14ct yellow gold with genuine R utilated Q ua Rtz 4. ‘ touRM alte Me’, 14ct white and yellow gold with genuine tou RMalated Q ua Rtz
S HO W CA S E HialeaH Fine Jewelry hialeahfinejewelry.com 20 J EWEll E ry SHOWCASE 5. 2. 3. 4. 1.
5. ‘Bad Behavio R ’, 14ct R ose gold with genuine ch RoM e diopside
Lobe: 14ct ye LLow go L d b ubb L e Hinge Ring (t LMR12); 2 x 14ct ye LLow go L d Hinge P L ain Seg M ent Ring S ( t L36); 14ct ye LLow go Ld Hanging geM cHain cH a RM ( tLcH ain14) Fo R wa R d HeL ix to HeL ix: 2 x 14ct ye LLow go L d tHRead Le SS P R ong-Set geM Pin attac HM ent S ( t LPin 103); 14ct ye LLow go Ld cH ain wit H Jewe LLed b aguette and Squa Re cH a RMS ( tLcH ain 22); 14ct ye LLow go Ld Hanging d oub L e cH ain wit H Hanging geM cH a RMS ( tLcH ain13) TisH lyon tishlyon.com
Norvoch norvoch.com 1. Emory Charm, 14 Ct y ellow gold
emerald  2. Paint Pal E t t E Charm, 14 Ct y E l low gold with mix E d c ubic zirconia Pride gems 3. d i ana Charm, 14 Ct y E l low gold with garn E t 4. r i b Cag E Charm, 14 Ct y E l low gold 5. 4 b E z E l Charm, 14 Ct y E l low gold with moissanite  6. h E a rt l i ght b E a m Charm, 14 Ct y E l low gold with P i nk to Pa z  22 Jewellery showcase 6. 4. 5. 1. 3. 2.
with
Send a photo of your best charm-and/or-chain curation to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk and it could feature in a future issue of the magazine! ! Over tO yOu 1. Luminary, 14ct ye L Lo w, ro S e or white go L d w ith Swarov S k i c Z 2 Lunette, 14ct ye L Lo w, ro S e or white go L d w ith Swarov S k i c Z S 3 Serpent, 14ct ye L Lo w or white go L d 4 B L a de, 14ct ye L Lo w or white go L d 5 La By rinth, 14ct ye L Lo w, ro S e or white go L d w ith Swarov S k i c Z Buddha Jewelry buddhajewelry.com 23 Jewellery showcase 5. 2. 1. 3. 4.
The

piercing

industry

is thriving right now, and UKAPP Public Outreach/Vice President

Bec K y c r oss A n takes a moment to remember just how far it has come

If you’re a newer piercer, you’d be forgiven for thinking the industry in the UK has always looked similar to how it does now; but travel back in time and even 10 years ago the piercing scene was very different.

When the UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP) came into being in 2015, and indeed even when the founding members were making waves and forming the very beginnings of the organisation, access to jewellery manufacturers was limited. Using externally threaded jewellery was the norm and many piercers had never seen verified pieces in the flesh.

Aside from one UK distributor (hat tip to Paddy and ISUK for being a pioneer), ordering from a verified company usually involved importer numbers, high shipping costs and customs charges. It was a complicated process and one that many business owners were understandably reticent to dip their toe into. Today, we have so many beautiful, high-quality brands with UK distributors, and it’s been a long journey to reach this level of accessibility, allowing more piercers to up their game.

Similarly, education for piercers is more readily available than ever. Once upon a time, it was rare to see international speakers coming

About the u K APP

The UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP) is a not-for-profit health and safety organisation dedicated to spreading knowledge of safe piercing practices and up-to-date information for industry professionals and the general public.

The UKAPP has a list of criteria that industry professionals are required to meet in order to become a member of the organisation. This includes environmental criteria, jewellery standards, and health and safety criteria such as being trained in first aid and blood-borne pathogens. The UKAPP also holds an annual educational conference.

For more information, visit ukapp.org.uk

to the UK to share their expertise. Piercing education often meant travelling abroad to the APP Conference in Las Vegas or BMXnet in Germany. In 2024, we are fortunate enough to not only have the UKAPP educational conference, but multiple other events across the country, as well as many educational opportunities online.

It’s important to note that although the emergence of the UKAPP may have driven some of these changes forward at an incredible pace, it wasn’t the first UK organisation of its kind. In 1990, Pauline Clarke (best known for Piercing World magazine and a range of great books) set up the Professional Piercers Association UK (PPAUK), and although it didn’t last long term, it was certainly a blueprint for the organisation that we have today.

Alongside celebrating our individual successes and progress, it’s important to take a look back and see just how far the UK industry has come and how we have all had some small part in making that progress happen. The hard work and dedication that have led us here should be celebrated. So, here’s to all of us, because we’re absolutely smashing it!

24 C O MM e n T
C OM M en T

UNLOCK THE NEXT LEVEL WITH COGNITION TRAINING’S PATREON

Webinar recordings

Tutorial videos

Downloadable content

And much more

Norvoch

BEHIND THE SCENES

Calling all Norvoch fans! At this year’s APP Conference you can meet the faces behind the brand and find out more about the in-house manufacturing process that goes into its glittering designs

This year, Norvoch will once again be attending the APP Conference at Planet Hollywood in Las Vegas, US (23-28 June) – and it has an exciting line-up in store for attendees!

With a goal to top 2023’s appearance, the brand will be bringing gorgeous designs to the booth, as well as never-before-seen surprises. Curious about the work and skill that goes into creating such show-stopping pieces? You’ll even have the chance to speak with Norvoch’s head jeweller and pick his brain about the jewellery and the manufacturing process.

It’s a fascinating story to hear: with each piece made from start to finish in-house in Los Angeles, California, every single part of the process is carried out with great care by a member of the Norvoch team – from design, to 3D-printing, to manufacturing.

Indeed, since it was established in 2018, Norvoch has really made a name for itself in the industry with its precision-made jewellery featuring high-quality solid gold and gems. All of the brand’s materials are ethically sourced in the US and are 100% nickel-free, creating jewellery that is mill certified and APP certified.

From barbells, clickers and ends to dangles, charms and chains, the jewellery collection is fully customisable, which means you can pick the perfect gold colour, gem type and size with your clients. Or, if they’re looking for something truly unique, there’s

Share this page on your Instagram story and tag @NORVOCH to receive a SP e CIAL SU rPr IS e from the company!

even a full custom jewellery creation option! Once ordered, Norvoch offers fast turnaround times of 10 to 15 business days with worldwide shipping, and all jewellery comes with a lifetime warranty, guaranteed.

Fans of the brand will also be excited to learn that Norvoch launched its Pro Team this year, along with a rewards programme that allows all customers to earn Norvoch Coins for every dollar spent on orders. Based on which tier you fall under, you will earn a certain amount of points for every dollar spent, which can later be redeemed as a discount on your orders. Keen to join the family of piercers Norvoch has created through its Pro Team? Simply send an email request to info@norvoch.com “See you all in Vegas in a couple of months!”

@norvoch norvoch.com

27 S PONSOre D Fe ATU re

Back to B a sics

g o od foundations are essential in improving our mental and physical health, says Jess s e llars in the next instalment of her wellness series

28 Wellbeing

time, we spoke about the mind-body connection and the importance of regulating the nervous system. Before I can teach you any mindfulness techniques, breath work or other regulating tools, you need to have the basics down first.

i used to roll my eyes every time a healthcare professional trotted out those same ol’ questions: “Are you eating healthily? Are you sleeping? Are you exercising?” – and it took all the work i have done on myself to fully understand the importance of these things.

As i mentioned last time, we often focus on the mental side of our health, yet paying attention to our bodies is just as important. Through my research, healing and ongoing journey, i have come to learn that taking the ‘bottom-up’ approach is far more effective.

So, where do I begin?

When trying to regulate the nervous system, it’s super important to take it slow in order to avoid overwhelm. i t ’s all about

stripping things back to focus on what really matters. There’s no point in using fancy gold ends if your labrets are made of shite, right?

The first thing is to start listening to the body. Ask yourself the most basic but effective questions: how do i feel? What do i need?

So, how are you feeling? Tired? Hungry? Thirsty? Overwhelmed? And what do you need? Water? Food? Rest? To move the body?

i t sounds simple, but so many of us go through our day without ever checking in on ourselves –until our body signals to us that something is wrong. Our nervous systems are so clever – when we start to pay attention to them, they start to respond. When your body knows you are listening, it will show you more of what it needs.

You are what you eat

Fuelling the body is so important; your nervous system will never feel safe if you’re filling it with nothing but saturated fats and caffeine. So often, during busy times, a cup of coffee stands in for a complete breakfast; fast food for our 10-minute lunch break; and a takeaway for an easy dinner. Your body needs well-balanced, nutritious food.

When we talk about diet it’s usually in relation to our physical appearance or the health of our bodies, but not about how it affects our brain.

29 Wellbeing
A B ove Je S S S e ll A RS
Last

Did you know that the stomach is often considered to be our second brain? Our guts and brains are linked via nerves, biochemicals and the immune system, and the two are able to send messages to each other.

According to the American Psychological Association, gut bacteria produce an array of neurochemicals that the brain uses for the regulation of physiological and mental processes, including mood. It’s believed that 95% of the body’s supply of serotonin (mood stabiliser) is produced by gut bacteria. There’s growing evidence that this gut bacteria is also able to influence emotional behaviour; and that the brain can alter the balance of bacteria living in the gut in return.

Your brain and nervous system also depend on nutrition in order to function. The brain is an organ with very high metabolic and nutrient demands. On average, the brain consumes 20% of a person’s calorie intake each day. Can you see why it is so important? I strongly believe that you cannot fully improve your mental health if you have a poor diet. I’m not saying you have to be a raw vegan, but I implore you to take a lunch break, and consider what you are eating. Be mindful of what you are putting into your body, because as the saying goes, you are what you eat.

Caffeine check

Next, I’m going to say something that may be very unpopular, but excessive caffeine is detrimental to your mental health too. I couldn’t go a day without it, until I got serious about regulating my nervous system. I gave up caffeine almost a year ago! But panic not, you don’t have to give it up completely – maybe just consider cutting down?

There are so many studies about the effects of

I strongly bel I eve that you cannot fully I mprove your mental health I f you have a poor d I et

caffeine on the heart, and you can feel those effects; the palpitations, the jitters. When you consume caffeine it makes your heart rate increase and this tells the body it’s in danger, activating that fight or flight response. Drinking multiple energy drinks or coffees a day can produce so much adrenalin and cortisol that it keeps us in that stress mode, depleting our body.

I don’t want to feel like Jamie Oliver when he came into schools and took away our chips, but if we are serious about looking after ourselves, it’s about time we started taking this stuff seriously.

30 Well Be IN g
NOW AVAILABLEAT WWW.

Staying active

Another basic need is movement – we need to move our bodies; we are designed to move.

When we move, our bodies reward us with feel-good hormones such as dopamine and serotonin. There is a direct link between movement and feeling better; it has a profound effect on mental and physical health.

This doesn’t mean you have to join the gym and run 10k every day, but I would invite you to take stock of how much you actually move the body throughout the day. I imagine for most of us, it’s not that much.

How can you move your body more? Movement doesn’t just mean intense cardio sessions at the gym. What do you enjoy? Badminton? Walking your puppy? Dancing? Yoga? What have you enjoyed in the past? Essentially it’s about finding something you like doing, so that you’re more likely to do it again and again. Then encourage the motivation by focusing on the feeling that movement gives you, rather than the physical outcome. This series isn’t about getting abs; it’s about working on mental and physical health.

Sweet dreams

The last most basic need is rest and sleep: making sure we have breaks and truly take some time out, signalling to the body that it’s time to rest and digest.

Our bodies are hard at work while we sleep. They regenerate cells, restore energy and get rid of toxins, among other things. Mental health, stress and anxiety can affect our sleep; it can be hard to get to sleep or to get enough. But most people can get better sleep by improving their sleep hygiene, which includes an individual’s sleep environment and sleep-related habits. Make sure your bedroom is clean, comfy and quiet, and keep a regular sleep schedule that gives you plenty of time to relax, avoiding screen time for an hour or more before bed.

These things all sound so simple and clichéd, but they are so important. You cannot regulate your nervous system and reduce your stress without addressing these most basic needs. If you want help working on your nutrition, creating a mindful evening routine or moving the body, then please reach out and I will help you!

@jessicat_piercing

@_lunarising

Stay tuned

Next time, Jess talks about our environment, mindfulness, yoga and other things you can do, after these basic needs are addressed.

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The
-
/

Preserving

the P st

your life or career as

the day-to-day, but every collection is a piece to our community’s puzzle. We all have stories to tell and histories to preserve, and the Body Piercing Archive wants to help, because even though we are not currently accepting donations of complete personal archives, that doesn’t mean we want your collections disintegrating in drafty attics or damp basements!

Sitting on a wealth of piercing paraphernalia? Dev I n Ru I z-AltA muRA of the Body Piercing Archive provides some top tips for preserving your personal collection

So, in this article we aim to arm you with some tips for organising your personal collections and preparing them either for donation or for your loved ones. Please know that although we’re called the Body Piercing Archive, we care for and maintain materials relating to anything that is body modification. This includes body piercing, tattooing, branding, scarification, hook suspension, heavy body mods, corseting, foot binding, performance art that incorporates temporary or permanent modification… you name it!

Examples of items you may want to preserve would be:

35 Archiv E
_01

stickers, business cards, letterheads, letters, postcards, photographs, industry catalogues and price lists, Polaroids, piercing-related articles, newspapers, newsletters, magazines, books, VHS and audio tapes, apparel, original artwork such as tattoo flash or logo designs, interesting or historically important body jewellery that has been sterilised and is still in an autoclave pouch, or old physical body art portfolios that are no longer used.

Step one

Collect your items and try not to be overwhelmed. Think of this as one unified collection and not, for example, 100 individual items. Start by grouping your items by any loose category of your choosing.

This can mean all photos go together, or all items from a particular year can be grouped together. Hopefully these groupings are easily identifiable.

Step two

Going from the first step of rough sorting to a more refined sorting is incredibly helpful for your own memories and if you are preparing this collection for donation. A great place to start would be sorting your photos not only by year but by event, or putting your business cards in chronological order. The goal is to add more and more context to your individual items. This may also be a good time to start adding labels to your groupings; labels should specify the year, the names of any involved parties, and any other details you’d like to include.

Step three

Now it’s time to think about storage. Common record boxes or bankers’ boxes are great for temporary storage and are much lighter than plastic storage bins. if you’re working with a smaller amount of items then plastic bins do have the added benefit of protection from insects or any accidental spills.

The most important thing at this stage is deciding where your collection will live in your home. Cupboards are ideal because they tend to be dry areas that stay pretty stable in temperature and humidity throughout the year. You will want to avoid lofts, basements

36 Ar CH iVe
_02

and garages as they can harbour critters, and are more susceptible to mould and fungus, moisture and temperature fluctuations.

Extra crEdit stEp

If you really want to go above and beyond with your collection, there are a few relatively simple things you can do to help anyone in the future who may be processing your items. Gently removing (and avoiding use in the first place) any staples from standard printed items or any rubber bands is a great step towards better collection longevity. The same goes for adhesives or tape! Placing flat materials in any kind of sleeve or folder helps provide support to things that can be creased or bent more easily.

Also, for super-sensitive items that shouldn’t be public and should be preserved for future generations, you can donate with the stipulation that the items remain ‘time-capsuled’. This can be for however many years you wish – five years, up to 50 years. These materials will be stabilised but not reviewed by researchers or available to anyone until such time stipulated.

Happy collecting! @bodypiercingarchive bodypiercingarchive.org 2.

L IG hT weIG hT record boxes or b A nkers’ boxes A re G re AT for kee PI nG vArI ed co LLecTIons or bu LkI er IT ems ToGeT her for T em P or A ry s Tor AG e

Vanishing

acts

Will a dropped ball spell the end of life as Max knows it?

Photo story by Maciej Kaczmarski @max.pokes and Alfonso Palma @ozzzoide
38 Photo story

It’s after hours at Yakuza Tattoo, and piercer Max is innocently indulging in a spot of personal hygiene...

Little clean here.

Little clean there. Noooooooooooooo!

...until,catastrophestrikes!

Come on you little rascal, where are you hiding?

40 PHOTO STORY
It’s gone! Never to be seen again! What am I going to do?!

*rocks back and forth muttering incoherently*

41
PHOTO STORY

DING DONG

But then...
Special delivery! My
New
Destiny
mine! 42 PHOTO STORY
saviour!
jewellery!
is
all is right with the world once more. Ooooh, shiny. 43
And
PHOTO STORY

Time for T echnique:

guiches

This time we welcome internationally renowned piercer Matthew Masterton of The Fall in Vancouver, Canada, for an expert walk-through of this most intimate of genital piercings

Guiche piercings are one of my favourite piercings to perform! I love the way they look, and usually the clients asking for them have spent a great deal of time mustering up the courage to enter the studio and make it happen, so when we finally complete it they are full of gratitude and appreciation for helping them achieve their goal. What greater job satisfaction could a piercer want or need?

I had my own pierced by the legendary Fakir Musafar

during the closing ceremony of the advanced workshop (Fakir Intensives are Hogwarts for piercers) and would not be without it. I feel it is important to experience piercings that I offer clients so that I can give my true testimony regarding any pain/aftercare and everything in between.

In fact, I liked mine so much that I got my second guiche piercing from Jim Ward during the annual APP Conference in Vegas – I consider myself ‘touched by magic’.

“A guiche piercing is A genitAl piercing thAt trAditionAlly goes horizontAlly through the perineum (behind the scrotum), Although verticAl options Are AvAilAble to those with the correct AnAtomy”
T E CH A DVI C E 45 T ECH ADVICE

A guiche piercing is a genital piercing that traditionally goes horizontally through the perineum (behind the scrotum), although vertical options are available to those with the correct anatomy.

Pronounced ‘geesh’, this piercing is predominantly more popular with cis men, although cis females do have their own equivalent in the form of a fourchette piercing.

Guiche piercings are exceedingly popular in the gay/ kink community and can add a heightened sensitivity to that area, which in most cases is very welcome! They are also aesthetically pleasing and can give people a sense of confidence when exposing a very (some would argue the most) intimate area.

These piercings are best offered by piercers with a wide range of genital piercing experience and are not to be attempted for the first time without supervision. This is an extremely intimate piercing and requires a level of trust between both client and piercing artist.

My client featured here today is someone I have already performed many genital piercings on and he was very excited to hear that he will be featured in The Sharp End! Because of our previous working relationship, he has proven to me that he can successfully heal many genital piercings, including frenum/ lorum and Prince Albert

by step

piercings (soon to be a full apadravya – watch this space!).

I would class a guiche piercing as somewhat advanced, because it can require some patience to heal. Bike riding is out of the question for quite a while!

All of my clients begin their journey by filling in their paperwork, which gives me adequate time to load my Statim with any tools and jewellery required and to set up my disposables, including but not limited to: drape sheet, skin markers, iodine swab, alcohol wipe, lubricating gel and sterile gloves.

I am sure that everyone planning on getting this piercing has taken adequate care to keep their personal hygiene on point, but as an added security measure I will offer my clients a saline wipe/washroom break so that they can quickly freshen up if they had to travel etc, as this helps put everyone at ease.

As soon as my client enters the room and asks me what comes next, I will request that they remove all clothing from

“These piercings... are noT To be aTTempTed for The firsT Time wiThouT supervision”

T E CH A DVI C E 46 TECH ADVICE
1 2
step

the waist down whenever they are comfortable and then I will busy myself with the chemical integrator log and write in any required information. I find that the act of removing clothing carries a vulnerability equal to actually exposing your genitals, and for this reason I allow the client time to prepare. I have a nice seating area in my room in which clothing and personal possessions can be stored.

For this piercing I will wear a head lamp – I have to really see what’s going on back there and find this method extremely reliable. The lighting in my room is great but this added feature allows me to be very precise.

For positioning, I will typically have my clients hop onto the bed and arch their back, aiming the required piercing site towards me with full visibility – think downward dog yoga pose, but with knees tucked beneath them.

As with most piercings, I will clean the area thoroughly using a disposable antiseptic isopropyl alcohol pad, then I will begin my marking process.

The goal here is to make the piercing as aesthetically pleasing as possible, and this usually translates into sitting symmetrically above the hanging scrotum. For a standard guiche piercing this means as horizontally straight as possible and equidistant to the ‘perineal raphe’, aka the line/ridge of skin that extends from the anus all the way

through the perineum, up the scrotum and underside of the penis, ending at the frenum. This line/ridge is not always formed in a straight line (as in my client’s case) and so you would have to have a conversation with your client about what works best – I will talk more on this later.

I begin by making a vertical line using a disposable gentian violet marker up said line/ridge to try and give a sense of centre. Next, I will mark two more lines on either side of this line, around 5mm apart (equally distant from the centre line), so that from furthest inner line to furthest outer line the distance is 10mm. Finally, I will mark a horizontal line that will dictate how the piercing should lay –along the Y and X axis, so to speak.

During this time I will have my client assume the ‘standing position’, although still kneeling on the piercing bed. I do this to check my marks are not too high as to make the piercing ‘tight’; there has to be a little movement with this piercing, and if you go too high the piercing tends not to be viable and/or comfortable. The piercing should be clearly visible from the back when in a standing position to avoid being trapped or squeezed in between the buttocks.

I will offer to take a photo of placement both standing and bent over for the client to look at, whilst explaining all of the above. They are also welcome

3
4
T E CH A DVI C E 47 T ECH ADVICE

to try and have a look in the mirror, although due to the body contorting this is not always the most accurate method of viewing these markings.

So, because my client’s line ran a little to my left/his right in a curl and not a straight line, we had to decide whether we would go equally on either side of the line/ridge, as would usually be the case – but knowing that in his case this would make it slightly off centre – or go a little closer on the left and further on the right to make things look more centred. We opted for the latter.

After we have both agreed on the marking placement, I will apply some povidoneiodine in circular motions using a single-use disposable swab stick beginning in the centre of the circle and rotating outwards. This helps avoid bringing any remaining bacteria that lives on the skin into the centre or piercing site itself.

I allow this a minute or two to dry whilst I fit a drape around the piercing site – a little transpore tape on each corner will prevent the drape sheet from slipping or sliding down as the client is still in a somewhat vertical position. Then I will open my Statim cassette and put on my sterile gloves.

For the guiche piercing I do prefer using a traditional method of clamping and using taper pins for added security during jewellery transfer. I used

“i opTed for a curved bar because They have given me The besT resulTs over The years”

slotted Pennington forceps during this procedure and I ‘walked’ the skin underneath them until I was happy I had both my entry and exit markings in clear sight centred in the forceps.

I like to use the back of the needle blade to make a ‘ghost mark’ before I make the piercing itself. By pushing the tissue in this way it gives me confidence in where the needle blade should exit correctly.

Next, I make the piercing! Bevel facing towards me using an 8g needle and some single-use lubricating gel, on the slightest angle towards their body so as best to use bevel theory – followed by the 8g internally threaded taper pin (always by the blunt/rear end of the needle, never the sharp end) and 8g 5/8” curved internally threaded barbell by Anatometal.

I opted for a curved bar because they have given me the best results over the years; it’s almost as if they have a little ‘give’. Straight bars have a tendency to become angled over time and rings almost

48 TECH ADVICE
5 6 T E CH A DVI C E

always come back with irritation and end up being switched to barbell-style jewellery. I prefer rings for healed wear but that is not to say that I have not had success with using the correct diameter ring initially too.

My client wanted a double guiche, so for that reason I made both piercings and then inserted the jewellery. Seeing both needle blades sitting next to each other helps confirm the piercings are parallel and aesthetically pleasing (they both look straight and are an equal distance away from each other on either side).

When the jewellery has been safely inserted I then clean the area using a sterile saline wipe, go over aftercare instructions, wrap them up with a little gauze in case of any extra bleeding, which commonly takes place when using a large-gauge needle, and send them on their way!

Aftercare for this area is sterile saline solution three times per day (preferably from an aerosol bottle so that every

application is sterile), with clear instructions to leave this area alone whilst healing. Some clients are easily excited and want to play with it right away!

Matthew Masterton has been piercing for 15 years – seven in Carlisle, northern england, and eight in Vancouver, Canada.

He works at The Fall Tattooing as Studio Manager and Piercer

and enjoys it very much! When not at work, he spends time hiking with his husband, Sam, and relaxing with their two cats, Trevor and Tyrone (both named after characters in the British TV soap opera, Coronation Street!).

I recommend a downsize after around the three-month mark to give adequate time for the initial swelling to subside, then replace with something better fitting in length to help minimise irritation from the initial jewellery moving around too much or getting caught on things. I encourage all clients to let the area fully air dry before putting on underwear to avoid trapping any excess moisture, which has been known to lead to irritation. Check ups are essential and these piercings can take 9 to 12 months to heal.

thank you for reading my ‘how to’ on guiche piercings. I hope you all go out and get yours done next!

@matthewmasterton

7 8 T E CH A DVI C E Meet
the expert

I have been piercing for two years now. Originally, it was a calculated decision to exchange a minimal amount of my time for the maximum amount of money, as I was in a position where I had to look after my two children by myself but didn’t really want to be apart from them for long periods of time.

What I did not expect was the passion that ignited in me, allowing me to LOVE my job and the people I get to interact with. Can you even call it a job when you love it so much? For almost 30 years I’d never had that ‘this is the thing I am supposed to do with my life’ feeling, ya know? I am now one of those lucky people; I just wish I had found it sooner.

One of the things I am most proud of is starting Pierce & Love Forever. After a sudden bereavement, the outside world became a no-go zone for me really. It was just me and my two girls. But after a while I had to find a way to support them, all on my own.

watching it grow little by little each month is a very rare moment in life when I can be proud of myself.

It made me feel like I can literally achieve anything! Just to find happiness in my personal life and my working life is such an achievement in itself for me.

Because of that, I feel empowered, like nothing can stop me! Feel the fear and do it anyway! I felt so weak for so long – both mentally and physically drained. But Pierce & Love has now become part of my identity; my new sense of self. It’s now a chapter in the story of my life after loss.

To come from the depths of grief, with no hope or aspirations for myself, to starting Pierce & Love and

The main thing I would like other piercers to take from this is to just keep going (especially if you’re new to the industry like I am) and never stop seeking happiness in what you do. If you have children, teach them how to approach life that way too!

@pierceandlove22

Through this heartfelt origin story, KaT y French of Pierce & Love Forever in Sevenoaks, Kent, gives us the courage to continue, even when we’re at our lowest ebb

50 End-n OTE In SPO nE dnO T E In S OP
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