Thinking small
Tiny s T udio spaces
Jewellery showcase Moons T one M agic
m r s ebas T ian The life and TiM es
WELCOME TO
A very warm welcome to this Aug/ Sep issue of The Sharp End
As I write, it’s harvest time in the fields around my cottage, and I hope there’s been some harvesting going on for you as well – whether it be a plan coming to fruition, business picking up during the summer holidays, a lightbulb moment in your training or continuing education, or maybe a marketing campaign paying off.
This year has been tough for a lot of people, though, so if you’re struggling to see the positives right now, please try not to lose hope. Your harvest will come. There’s plenty of late-summer inspiration in the pages that follow, including a showcase of that perennial client and piercer favourite: the moonstone (page 16). If you love it, or sell lots of it, but don’t know much about it, we’ve got you covered with an insightful introduction by Pat Daly of Gem-A. Do check out their educational courses if gemstones are your thing.
Our Studio Focus looks at tiny studio spaces, why they’re a great option and how to get the best out of them. Big thanks to Claudia Bosin of LNO Piercing for coming up with this feature idea. You can read her thoughts on the subject, along with those of three other tiny studio owners, beginning on page 24.
I hope you enjoy this issue and the final days of summer. And, whether these past months have brought you big wins or a big ol’ nightmare, don’t forget to look out for your wellbeing – a topic that Jess Sellars has been covering for us this year, and continues on page 34 with a focus on yoga.
All best wishes,
Louise Hoffman Founder and Editor-in-chief
Editor-in-chief Louise Hoffman editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk Creative Director Craig John @craigjohnart To find out how to advertise in The Sharp End , please email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk Find us the-sharp-end.co.uk Get social – follow us @thesharpend_magazine The Sharp End Magazine
Cover image by Mara Fribus-stock.adobe.com
Printed by Page Bros, Norwich
mo o N sto N e magic
Take a look at this studio cabinet favourite from a gemmological perspective, with the help of Gem-A Senior Tutor Pat Daly… before diving into a mesmerising mix of moonstone jewellery designs
06 News aNd views
All the latest industry news and updates from the piercing community
14 dates for your diary
Don’t miss these exciting industry events taking place in the UK and further afield over the coming months
24 thiNkiNg small
Never mind tiny houses – it’s time to embrace the tiny studio movement! Here, four business owners tell us why small spaces rule, and share their top tips for success
32 the class coNuNdrum
As conference season continues, the UKAPP’s Becky Crossan helps us to avoid confusion over which classes to attend
34 holdiNg space
For the fourth instalment in this wellness series, Jess Sellars brings in her yoga teachings, explaining how the practice can help us to unite body and mind
41 time for techNique
Drawing on almost 20 years of experience, piercer and educator
Cale Belford highlights some key aspects to consider with standard industrial placement
44 mr sebastiaN
P aul King pieces together the life of internationally influential UK piercer and tattooist Alan Oversby, aka Mr Sebastian
50 eNd-Note iNspo
Showing us how crises can often be opportunities in disguise, Alex Buckingham of Sharp Point Piercings in Yeovil shares his motivational story
All the latest industry news and updates from the piercing community
After a tough time battling – and beating – breast cancer, Zoe Stevens of Brazen Body Piercings has succeeded in opening a second piercing studio!
Located in the historic town of Conwy, Wales, the new premises are within a listed building that was once a butcher’s shop, boasting original features such as marble counters, gold-painted metalwork and green tiled walls, which informed the interior colour scheme of the studio.
“I spent six months working on this studio, making sure everything was perfect. The majority of the work was done by my partner and I – we spent many late nights here!” Zoe admits.
The new studio, which officially opened in April, currently stocks Junipurr gold and titanium, with the first BVLA order on its way, and Zoe is now working there full time.
Meanwhile, Aldo Ferrazza has taken the helm as manager of Brazen Body Piercings in the original Llandudno studio, which is about to celebrate its third anniversary.
“We also have Kitty Hillier working with us after completing her apprenticeship last year, plus a new apprentice, Tez Bradley, who’s very eager to learn everything she can about piercing and our industry as a whole.
“Brazen means to be bold and unashamed – that’s a description that definitely fits us!”
@brazenbodypiercings
Brazen Conwy opens its doors
Another successful APP scholArshiP yeAr for uK Piercers
Matt Clarke, 2023 scholar, APP volunteer and scholar support, reports back from a memorable 2024 APP Conference for jet-setting UK piercers...
Las Vegas, the city of light, needs no introduction, with tourists travelling from all over the world to visit this surreal city. For piercers, it’s the annual APP Conference and Expo that brings us to ‘Sin City’, with more than 15 professionals from the UK flying out to join 1,500-plus attendees from all over the globe. In its 27th year, this was the biggest APP conference to date.
With the APP supporting 12 piercers to attend the annual conference, it was great to see three incredible UK piercers awarded the Legacy Scholarship for 2024. It was a time for learning, personal and professional growth and lifelong memories.
“It changed my whole perspective of
how warm and caring this industry is and also its size. Overall, it was a game changer for me.” – Breo (Rogue Piercing, Nottingham)
“When they said the scholarship will change your life – let me tell you, truer words were never spoken. I’ve yet to experience anything more impactful on my career and personal outlook than my time at the APP Conference, specifically as a volunteer <insert tears of joy>.”
G (Vivid Ink, Stafford)
“The words will never match the feeling, but the song lyrics in A Good Reason to Grow Old by Owl John come pretty close.” Phebe (Factotum, Norwich)
It would be great to see more UK piercers at the 2025 conference. Scholarship applications open in November – take a chance, go for it, you just never know!
Piercer P e ts
Aimee Williams from Manchester introduces us to this adorable little critter…
Name: S pot
Age: 3
Fave treat: Egg
Best quality: C utest snore EVER
Trademark dick move: N ibbling noses and earlobes
If you’d like your pet to make a cameo in the magazine, get in touch via Instagram @thesharpend_magazine or email editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk
A new studio for CumbriA
Big congratulations to Derek of The Piercing Lounge on the successful opening of his brand-new premises in Maryport, Cumbria!
Having been piercing for around three years in a room at his wife’s beauty studio, building up a client base and with his services growing in popularity, he noticed that many customers were coming from quite far afield.
“so, I decided to bring a studio closer to them and found this lovely little coastal town around 14 miles away from where I was. It was a perfect location and would save a lot of customers travelling.
“I took possession of the keys for the building at the beginning of
July, quickly transformed it into a thriving little studio, with a black and white theme to keep it looking clean and fresh, and named it
The Piercing Lounge.
“I took a big risk moving,” Derek continues, “but the risk has had its reward with new customers adding to my old clientele. My vision for the studio is to keep building it, piercing with the best APPapproved jewellery there is, and educating people on what is good and bad with jewellery etc.
“My personal goal is to continually improve my skills through education so that I can keep developing as a piercer and transfer those skills into my work.”
@the_piercing_lounge_cumbria
Preview: PierCer trAde show dublin
The Dublin trade show returns on 6 October 2024! And organiser Nathan Hague has got the lowdown for us…
For the second time, we are bringing a piercing conference to the emerald Isle! Once again, we will be hosted at the Dublin Tattoo Convention inside the RDS arena.
Our line-up this year includes pioneers of UK and european body piercing. Helen and Jenny from the iconic Holier than Thou Manchester will lead a class on one of the most
important topics in our industry today. Plus, this year we welcome back Lucy simmons and Nahuel Burgos who, having taught together in London last year, will now lead a full class each. Lucy will give us an insight into her ear curation method and Nahuel will lead a piercing demonstration class. If you wish to book a piercing with Nahuel for demonstration purposes, please contact the trade show via Instagram.
Our vendor list this year features world leaders in body jewellery
supply. Industrial Strength UK and Danila Tarcinale, who have supported us from the very beginning, will feature once again alongside Ireland’s favourite Apex body jewellery and new vendor Anatometal UK, as well as a host of others!
Tickets are available by following the QR code, and we can’t wait to welcome you to our event.
global goSSip
enter the dragon
Océane of Bleu Dragon in Annecy, France, reveals her brand-new studio to the world
“‘Like a dragon in the water’ is a proverb used to wish someone prosperity in their environment. Being the main actress in my life, I didn’t hesitate to build this new environment, hoping to offer the piercing experience that everyone deserves.
“I am therefore proud and happy to present Bleu Dragon. Nestled between lake and mountains, this folkloric place presents the most prestigious fine jewellery brands dedicated to piercing, and it is with honour and kindness that I dedicate myself to welcoming each person and project through the door, to give life to wishes that have often been desired for years!”
@bleudragon.piercing
Staying Sharp with another award nomination
At the start of this year, we reported the fantastic news that Nico of Stay Sharp Studio had been named ‘Best Piercer in the North West’ in the 2023 English Beauty Industry Awards. Well, guess who’s made the shortlist again this year!
“Being a finalist again is an incredible achievement and a tonic for my recent burnout and multiple last-minute studio moves,” says Nico. “Whether or not I take home the trophy, I’m proud to be a finalist based on client votes and supporting evidence, and to share this space with some fierce competition.
“This year, the awards represent the entire north of England, and I believe it’s important for our industry to receive recognition as part of the beauty industry. We should all be pushing forward as hard as we can to be recognised as a professional trade, and I feel that, alongside continued education and working towards APP standards, awards like this will help governing bodies review the standard of work acceptable for client safety. The more positive media we get, the louder our voices become to push this forward!
“Special thanks as always to my wonderful partner and apprentice Mike and our newest staff member Mimi for the support in growth. 2024 has been a whirlwind for many, with a huge decline in business and client intake, and I feel very fortunate to have survived this chaotic time and been recognised for the efforts!”
@staysharppiercing
Q & A Meet
1. InT roduc E your SE lF
My name is Clem and I represent Aces Supply!
2. Wh AT IS your rol E ThErE? I’m the Founder and Director.
3. Wh AT ’S your br A nd’ S cor E MISSIon?
Providing sustainable solutions for the piercing industry and raising awareness of our environmental impact.
4. Wh AT do ES your br A nd SpEc IA l ISE I n?
Sustainable disposable tools and products and recycling services.
5. Wh AT ’S your FAvour ITE pArT o F ThE job?
Working with people who truly care about our industry and the planet.
hoW c A n p E opl E g ET In Touch WIT h you? Email info@the-aces.co.uk or follow/DM Aces Supply via Instagram @aces_supply
product spotlight
yes, it’s the item you never knew you needed, until now!
c rafted by the hands of Aime lou of h ooker’s r ook are these custom crochet piercing props, from giant bcr s with interchangeable central beads to threadless posts with removable ends.
“I found it hard to understand how the pin would bend when I first started using threadless attachments. I thought creating oversized props would be great to help piercers demonstrate this jewellery to their clients. They can also brighten a studio space or be given to clients with anxiety to hold and play with,” says Aime.
@hookers_rook
Over tO yOu
As well as carrying important industry updates, these pages are the place for you, the piercing community, to shout about all of your achievements and developments. So, if for example your studio has held a charity fundraiser, celebrated an anniversary, carried out a refit or rebranding, won an award or hosted an event – please let us know! Likewise, we’d love to hear about any personal achievements, such as graduating apprentices.
There’s a blog on our website with top tips for how to submit a winning piece of content, but at the end of the day, it’s the key details that count!
Send your submissions to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk or tag us in your announcement on Instagram @thesharpend_ magazine or Facebook (The Sharp End Magazine).
Here are some of the unmissable industry events taking place in the UK and beyond over the coming months...
uK app
Conferen C e 2024
15-17 s eptember
Albert Hall, Nottingham ukapp.org.uk
p ier C er t rade
s how 3.5 6 o ctober
RDS Dublin @piercertradeshowuk
d ub L in tattoo Convention 4-6 o ctober
RDS Dublin dublintattooconvention.com
t he w ee sCottish
p ier C ing e xpo 2025
2-3 m arch 2025
The Old Dr Bells Baths, Edinburgh @theweescottishpiercingexpo 1 3 4 2 3 2 1 4
p rofessiona L p ier C ers poL and Conferen Ce
20-22 September Gdańsk, Poland @professionalpiercerspoland
apa r itorno aLLe o rigini 22-24 September Pescara, Italy @ritornoalleorigini.apa
a ntwerp s us C on 5-6 October Antwerp, Belgium antwerp-suscon.be
aupp a nnua L p rofessiona L p ier C ers Conferen Ce 21-23 October Melbourne, Australia safepiercing.org.au
2 m eeting app - pt 2024 6-9 November Faro, Portugal meeting.safepiercingapp.pt
app a nnua L Conferen Ce and e xpo 22-27 June 2025 Planet Hollywood Resort and Casino, Las Vegas, US safepiercing.org
Let’s fi LL this map up! If you know of a conference, expo or open-door event that should be on this page, or have one of your own to promote, send the details to editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk
Ace-high
T-shirt in white with Ace of Sharps back design and The Sharp End pocket logo (available in gender neutral
T-shirt in black with Ace of Sharps back design and The Sharp End pocket logo (available in gender neutral and fitted) Ace of Sharps back patch in black
PaT Daly , SEn IO r Tu TO r AT G EM-A, InTrO duCES u S TO THE COM p OSITIO n, quALITIES And COLOur S OF THAT STudIO CA bIn ET
FAvO ur ITE : moons Tone
The shimmering reflective effects of moonstone have been admired by many cultures for at least 2,000 years. It shows a silvery to bluish sheen when a stone is seen at a particular angle but is invisible otherwise. The movement of the effect across the surface of the stone as it’s turned in the light is one reason why it is so appealing. Sometimes, the effect is concentrated in a streak of light across a stone – a cat’s eye.
Moonstone is a gem variety belonging to the feldspar group of minerals which, collectively, are thought to be the commonest minerals in the Earth’s crust. Feldspars of gem quality are rare, however. Alteration is common and stones tend to be cloudy and of little use in jewellery.
Some are transparent and can be faceted but few of them compare well with more established jewellery stones. Those that display a definite optical effect are deservedly the most popular.
The sheen, or adularescence, of moonstone is caused by the modification of light by submicroscopic, strongly oriented structures in feldspar crystals. This means that the reflections they produce are also strongly oriented and can be seen only when stones are lit and viewed from the right directions. The effect in moonstone ranges from silvery to white and blue; in other stones, a bright iridescence may be seen.
Feldspars are minerals composed of silicon, aluminium and oxygen, together with
potassium, sodium or calcium. Of these last three elements, calcium and sodium are interchangeable to almost any degree, sodium and potassium to some extent but potassium and calcium hardly at all.
The sheen or iridescence of these materials occurs when stones of mixed composition, which have grown at high temperature, separate into fine parallel layers when they cool. The desirable optical effects are seen when these layers are of suitable thickness.
Moonstones are potassiumsodium feldspars. Of the sodium-calcium types, iridescence is seen among stones that are mostly sodium feldspar and those that are closer to the mid-part of the compositional range. The former are peristerites, the others are labradorite and rainbow moonstone.
Moonstone can be translucent to almost opaque, but the best quality displays a bluish iridescence in a transparent, nearly white stone.
Most peristerites are translucent to opaque but otherwise resemble moonstone. Labradorite may be brightly iridescent in colours from blue to green, yellow, orange and reddish. In some cases, the iridescence is striped, in others it reflects from the whole surface of a crystal, which may be several centimetres wide.
Iridescent colours may be separated by straight boundaries, which change direction in an angular fashion, and which seem to have developed as the crystal grew. Iridescence in labradorite is displayed against a dark grey, sub-translucent background. The material is translucent in thin pieces but looks dark because it is full of small black inclusions that can be seen with a lens of 10x magnification. Rainbow moonstones do not have these black inclusions but may contain whitish ones that make the stone translucent. The best quality stones are transparent and display a range of iridescent colours, which look like an aurora within the stone.
It is usually possible to separate moonstone from rainbow moonstone with a gemmological polariscope, on which most rainbow moonstone has a striped appearance, shown by iridescent lines or alternate dark and bright bands. It is caused by a type of crystal
twinning that is not seen in moonstone.
Most moonstones are cut as cabochons, but transparent stones are sometimes faceted. Rainbow moonstones from a recent find in Madagascar have been fashioned in this way to make strikingly pretty stones. In some cases, iridescence can be seen in two directions, in which different colours may be displayed. Whether faceting is an improvement on cabochoncut stones is a matter of taste. Stones that are fractured or otherwise included may be carved into small pieces suitable for jewellery. The surface detail of the carving distracts the eye from what would otherwise be seen as flaws. Such stones can be beautifully iridescent and are relatively inexpensive compared with the finest stones, which may cost hundreds of pounds per carat.
n o w let’s see just how creative our industry’s jewellery designers can be in showcasing the beauty of moonstone…
t h e g e mmological a s sociation of g reat Britain, or g e m- a , is the world’s longest-established provider of gemmology education. i t offers a range of courses for those who want to learn more about gemstones, from one-day workshops and short courses to its prestigious and globally recognised g e mmology and d i amond d i plomas. v i sit gem-a.com to find out more.
Coffin Bezel, 14
adorite, pyrite 3.
1. Luna, 14ct pa LL adium white go L d with natura L moonstone
2. Birkshire, 14ct ye LLow go L d with natura L moonstone and co Lour-enhanced diamonds
3. g emma, 14ct rose go L d with rain B ow moonstone and diamonds 4. c am B ridge, 14ct ye LLow go L d with natura L moonstones
i mperia L , 14ct rose go L d with rain B ow moonstone
Modern Mood is currently holding a Trillion Moonstone Design Contest, which is open to professional piercing studios that carry Modern Mood Body Jewelry. Moonstones are 3mm (as seen in Tessa
design drawings can be submitted to info@modernmoodjewelry.com by 16 september. The winner is set to receive $500 in store credit,
and
Thinking small
You’ve probably heard of the tiny-house movement… well, what about the benefits of tiny studios? Here, four small-space studio owners share their experiences and top business tips
Cosimo Damiano Di Nunno
Midas Piercing Boutique, London, UK
It’s been a year since I opened Midas. It came with its challenges, but there’s not a single thing I would have done differently.
The increasing cost of running a business, especially in London, is pushing even established studios to consider more contained options, like my little shed. I was fortunate to attend the ‘Shopfitting and design’ class by Marcus Meyer at the Piercer Trade Show in London while setting up the studio. This allowed me to tweak the setup accordingly.
The best advice I can give to anyone venturing into a ‘tiny studio’ is to consider how the shopping experience flows within the space. The welcoming area, piercing space, contaminated area and licensing requirements are crucial aspects to consider during setup.
My main concern was whether clients would find the studio too small and cramped. Instead, as I can only fit one client at a time, the feedback I receive the most is that it feels cosy, like a private boutique just for them. This unique one-on-one experience has been an advantage! I truly believe it’s crucial to maximise the available space without compromising client comfort.
A helpful tip: if your tiny studio has no plumbing, many companies provide mobile sinks with hot water taps. It goes without saying that reprocessing tools is not an option when there isn’t enough space to avoid crosscontamination. Being fully disposable is a must. Although storage might be limited, it’s mostly a matter of keeping stock under control, as you can source
almost anything within a few days. Running Midas for a year has taught me that a small space doesn’t mean a small experience. The intimacy and exclusivity have been key to creating a unique client experience. By carefully considering the flow and functionality of the space, and ensuring compliance with all necessary regulations, it is possible to run a successful, tiny studio. Despite the hurdles, the satisfaction of providing a unique, personalised service in my studio has made it all worthwhile.
@midaspiercingboutique
Louise Fury and Tom Needles
Gold Standard Piercings & Fine Jewellery, London, UK
We’re Louise and Tom of Gold Standard Piercings & Fine Jewellery, Camden Town’s first disposable piercing studio. We operate out of one suite in a building set up for beauty services.
I (Louise) have been piercing since 2010 and was based at the legendary Hell to Pay studio in Camden for the last 10 years. Tom has been piercing since 2016 and is based in east London. Camden Town is a sevenday-a-week area, so having a team of two is ideal because we can be open every day without getting burnt out.
We’re both used to very small piercing rooms, so our tiny studio actually feels spacious at times. Having a single room offers people a more intimate experience in a quiet environment, away from the frenzy of on-street shops. We’re the only shop in Camden to offer fully verified jewellery from basic to luxury.
Tiny studios are ideal in London because rent is expensive. They’re great for first-time business owners because they don’t require a huge amount of money to get started. A smaller space is also more costeffective. Here, bills are included in our monthly rent, which makes things more financially manageable, and we’re disposable too. A small space is also easier to clean, as well as there being fewer things that can go wrong building-wise.
However, the biggest hurdle with this type of setup is that you can’t control which other businesses or
people might move in! Also, as we grow as a shop, we aren’t able to create more space.
Our top tips for starting out would be to add an extra 25% to your budget just in case, and definitely allow extra time. Be prepared for setbacks, and don’t assume that your landlord will be looking out for your business’s best interests.
Also, use your space well. We have storage shelves for supplies fitted close to the ceiling, so they are easily accessible but don’t interfere with the working area. We also have a bed that rotates and flattens out so that we’re able to move clients around to adapt to each other’s personal piercing style.
@goldstandardpiercings
Erika Gomez
Ceremonia Piercing, San Diego, US
Hello! I’m Erika and I have been a professional piercer since 2003. I just opened Ceremonia Piercing in North Park, San Diego, California. It’s a small, fully disposable, private studio and I opted to make it this way for a few reasons.
Firstly, I spent a lot of years in high-volume studios and it really took a toll on me. I was working fully booked days and being expected to take walk-ins when I finished appointments early. I used to dread going in, and couldn’t continue working like that.
Additionally, I was hearing clients tell me they felt rushed by the front end, and I feel strongly that it’s bad customer service to ask a client to spend hundreds of dollars on jewellery but to rush through the selection of these
expensive pieces. A private studio allows me to be more hands-on with styling, which is my preference. On top of this, I realised these factory-style studios really removed the original intent I had when I first started piercing: to try to create an environment where clients who wanted to could find intentional practice, reminding us of the joy and meaning that can be found in the act of piercing.
I also own Orthodox Jewelry and am building the brand by travelling to a lot of the international piercing conferences. This small studio setting will allow me to travel more easily and to take full advantage of all the international conferences and expos, sourcing all the best jewellery from new vendors that San Diego has not yet seen. It’s my hope that Ceremonia can offer clients the space they deserve for their piercing and styling services.
Claudia Bosin
LNO Piercing, Cheltenham, uK
Hi, I’m Claudia, piercer of six years, dog lover and studio owner of L nO p iercing, which has been open for a little over a year.
i have been operating as L n O for six years, formerly in a rental space in various tattoo studios. i purchased my own studio in October 2022 and the renovations began, officially opening the doors to L n O p iercing Studio in July 2023.
i decided to purchase a small studio because i wouldn’t be able to afford a large commercial space and i disliked the uncertainty of renting, especially after Covid. h owever, i understand it is a privilege to be able to afford to buy a studio and we had to sell our own home to do so!
a nother reason for choosing a small space was to reduce running costs. Business rates can be crippling to a small business, but, in Cheltenham, the size of our shop means we get full business rates relief – a major deciding factor.
a side from the financials, other benefits include quicker cleaning times as there are no hidden corners of dust anywhere in our studio. We have had to be very clever with storage, using built-in solutions wherever possible. When packages come in, they are unboxed and stored away; organisation is key to keeping on top of our beautiful space.
Small studios, in my opinion, work
best for piercers who work on an appointment-only basis, as customers then have the luxury of one-on-one time to browse jewellery in your space. t hey also work well for a small, close-knit team.
i f you’re thinking of opening a cosy, tiny studio space, my advice would be to plan your storage! t hink of creative approaches, like under-seat storage, under-bed storage, behind your reception desk etc. g et a good carpenter and treat them well! t hink of the flow of your space, from when a customer walks in, to performing the piercing and after piercing, giving a seamless experience.
@lnopiercing
Over tO yOu
Are you the only piercer working within a tattoo studio or other business? Or do you run a piercing-only studio entirely by yourself? In a future edition, we’ll be looking at solo piercing –get involved by emailing editor@the-sharp-end.co.uk
the cl ss conundrum
As conference season continues, UKAPP Vice President/Public o u treach Bec K Y c r oss A N helps us to avoid confusion over which classes to attend
You’ve bought your conference ticket, you’re looking at the schedule for the event and you’re feeling overwhelmed. Sound familiar? I think every newer attendee (and even some conference veterans) have felt that way at one time or another.
The beauty of larger events is that there’s a wide selection of classes, but this can also leave you undecided about which ones to attend. We hope these handy tips will help you to choose the classes that will work best for you and give you a great conference experience.
Where are you in your career?
Newer piercers could benefit from a class on the mechanics of piercing such as bevel theory, whereas an experienced piercer might look for something more advanced to build on the knowledge they already have.
Make a plan
Having a clear idea of what you would like to learn will make it easier to choose between classes that are running at the same time. And fear not, some classes get repeated a year or two later so it’s rarely your only chance to see something.
Non-technique classes
A conference might also have creative classes such as displays, photography and colour theory, or
About the u K APP
The UK Association of Professional Piercers (UKAPP) is a not-for-profit health and safety organisation dedicated to spreading knowledge of safe piercing practices and up-to-date information for industry professionals and the general public.
The UKAPP has a list of criteria that industry professionals are required to meet in order to become a member of the organisation. This includes environmental criteria, jewellery standards and health and safety criteria, such as being trained in first aid and blood-borne pathogens. The UKAPP also holds an annual educational conference.
For more information, visit ukapp.org.uk
sessions about piercing history. These can provide a refreshing break from technical deep dives, so don’t disregard them in favour of a schedule full of ‘heavier’ classes.
Are you a studio owner?
Some classes might be targeted at piercers who are studio owners rather than employees in somebody else’s shop. These often explore the intricacies of running a business –aspects that aren’t part of every piercer’s professional experience. It’s absolutely ok to recognise that some classes won’t be a good fit for you and choose a different option.
Finally, take breaks!
It’s unrealistic to expect yourself to attend a class in every time slot. Information overload can be a very real thing! Give yourself time to shop the expo, chat to other attendees, or even just take some time to chill in your hotel room. You don’t have to be learning relentlessly to get the best out of your conference experience, and sometimes those careertransforming moments come from the most casual of conversations. Still unsure? Conference organisers and speakers will always be happy to chat about what a class will cover and who it’s aimed at. Reach out to them ahead of time or even speak to them at the event.
CAN’T MAKE CONFERENCE THIS YEAR?
Then why not have your own conference with a weekend of learning with us on Patreon COMEFINDUSFORASPECIAL
Webinar recordings
Tutorial videos
Downloadable content
And much more
Holding space
far, we have spoken about the mind-body connection, the basics of self-care, and our environments. Now I want to share with you something that has helped me so much in my self-care journey, and that is yoga.
i had been on this journey for such a long time, and when i finally got those basics down, i found that i connected to yoga in a different way. i t was the glue that bound everything together – suddenly, everything made sense.
Yoga is such a vast subject. i ’ve done 200-plus hours of yoga training, and to fit thousands of years of philosophy into one article is simply impossible! There are so many teachings, ancient scriptures, etc, but right now i ’ll share with you the main message that i tell my students.
What is yoga?
Most people think yoga is just about moving the body, bending yourself up like a pretzel and sitting cross-legged, humming “Om”. They think it’s about being flexible, and the most advanced yogis are the ones who backbend and stand on their heads. People often don’t come to yoga purely because they have a predetermined notion that they will be bad at it, based on their
n ext in this wellness series, Jess s ellars brings in her yoga teachings, explaining how the practice can help us to unite body and mind
flexibility or strength. Does that sound like you?
The asana (the physical movement) is actually a very small part of yoga, and arguably the least important. The internet and Western world put all the focus on the physical practice of yoga, the i nstagrammable poses and matching yoga sets – but this is not true yoga at all.
b efore i established a deeper connection to my yoga practice, that’s how i saw it too. i would do yoga as a ‘light workout’ or to stretch my achy muscles after the gym. b ut when i started on my deeper healing journey – regulating my nervous system and connecting to my body – i came to yoga in a different way.
“Yoga
is the journey of the self, through the self, to the self.”
– The b hagavad g ita
Yoga is simply a space for presence; to be with yourself. It’s coming out of the busy mind and back into the body.
The word ‘yoga’ literally translates to ‘union’; union of the mind, body and soul, connecting all parts of ourselves. Going back to that first article I wrote, it’s all about the mind-body connection. We cannot part one from the other, despite the fact they tend to be treated as separate entities.
Making the connection
So often we spend the day in our heads, thinking about something we said to a client last week, or worried about what other piercers think of us. We overthink so much; our heads are swirling with to-do lists, worries and anxieties. Yoga brings us back down to earth. Only when we quiet the mind can we see what’s going on.
I think the foundation of self-care is to become self-aware. To notice your habits and to pay attention to when you feel your best – who you’re around and what environment you’re in. To understand your patterns, good and bad. To see when getting stuck in a doom scroll on social media might have led you to feeling sad or anxious, comparing yourself to others or not feeling good enough. To notice if you’re filling your time with as much work as possible, so that you don’t have to be alone with your thoughts. Only when we slow down to notice, can we make a change.
Our yoga practice is the space to do this – to slow down, to be present, to come back into the body through the postures and the breath. We learn from the postures because we are doing things consciously instead of mindlessly, moving with intention. We are using yoga practice as an effective tool to explore and connect with ourselves on a deeper level. We connect with the breath to connect to the body and regulate the nervous system, slowing down the mind.
The pranayama (breathwork) also brings us into the parasympathetic nervous system, where we can rest and digest, so our bodies can function optimally. Meanwhile, the physical asana practice works to purify the energy in our bodies: as we flow through the poses, we are getting rid of energy blockages, so the energy flows more freely.
On the yoga mat I always say to my students: pay attention to how the posture feels, not how it looks. We are listening to our bodies and responding accordingly. A lot of the time in my classes, I invite the students to move organically – to listen to their body and to move it in a way that their body needs, whether that be rolling the shoulders, rotating the wrists, slowing down a posture or taking a different option. My role as a yoga teacher is not to tell them what to do, but to guide them back home, to themselves.
At the beginning of each session, we spend 10 or so minutes just checking in, paying attention to how our bodies feel, how we feel emotionally, how we are landing on the mat. I guide them through a meditation to take stock of everything that’s going on, encouraging them to leave everything else behind:
“Yoga is a space for presence, everything else
can be left behind. Our to-do lists, people who need something from us; everything can be left at the door, and the invitation is to simply be here now.” That is why I love teaching so much; I’m holding space for people so they can become more connected to themselves.
There is no better feeling than being fully present and connected to yourself – to be able to understand, see and feel exactly what’s going on so that you can make changes, put in boundaries and live your life in a way that serves you. Being present and getting to know yourself on a soul level is one of the best journeys anyone can take, and yoga is the perfect place to start!
Once you start to practise yoga in its true form, you can then begin to take your practice off the mat. More on this in my next article!
@jessicat_piercing @_lunarising
AfinAlnote
If you would like to practise yoga but don’t know where to start, reach out to me – I would love to help! Also, I’ve been promising this for a while and have been working on the logistics… but YOGA FOR PIERCERS is coming! We will gather online and practise together. Keep your eyes peeled! And if you can’t wait until then, check out my yoga class at the UKAPP Conference this year.
FRONT AND BACK
PRINTED
SHOPGN.CO
TSHIRTS • PRINTS • HOODIES
SOCIAL: @GLORIOuSNIGHTmARE
FRONT AND BACK PRINTED
FRONT AND BACK PRINTED
Time for T echnique:
industri ls
A familiar face on the conference circuit, expert piercer and educator Cale Belford joins us from the US to consider standard industrial placement
Industrial piercings tend to be one of the hardest piercings to heal in the ear.
Why is this? many people blame the client for sleeping on it or touching it too much, but mostly it comes down to the client’s anatomy and how the piercing is placed. poor positioning can create an array of issues, especially migration or the dreaded bump, or sometimes both.
The first thing to always consider is the anatomy of the ear. Ears come in all different shapes and sizes and a lot of the time the client will not have suitable anatomy. There is more to consider than just the shape and depth of the helix rim. Does the flat protrude outward? Is the cartilage thick enough for stability on the outer helix? perhaps there is a previous piercing scar that could impact healing for a new piercing?
1. The placement angle is important as well, and not just for healing but also for aesthetic reasons. The standard industrial is generally a 30-to-45-degree angle across the top of the ear, depending on the ear of course. Placements too high or too low could affect the overall look.
2. Placements too low and close to the head can get bumped regularly by clients putting hair behind their ear. This can create additional complications if they wear glasses, a hearing aid or even certain headphones, as the pressure from the jewellery sitting on it can create bumps. When preparing to do an industrial, consider marking it with their glasses on, or other items they may wear regularly, to avoid those awkward positions.
3 & 4. Too deep a placement will cause bumps or absorption of the jewellery by the flat, or sometimes even both. Piercing deeper to compensate for lack of anatomy can oftentimes create severe scarring. It’s important to mind your depth and, if there is a lack of space, consider not performing the piercing. Holding up modified toothpicks or needle blanks in the ear could help you visualise what kind of space you’re working with, and if the bar will be pressing on the flat once installed.
5. Shallow placements can lead to migration, but so can tissue that is too soft and not stable enough to maintain a piercing like an industrial. It’s most common for the outer helix anatomy to be thin and soft. If it’s not well formed and sturdy, it’s not advisable to pierce it. You could discuss with your client alternative placements like a faux-industrial, or just a different piercing altogether.
Cale has been piercing since 2005 and is the owner of Oleander p iercing in Worcester, Massachusetts, US.
I hope this article has been insightful for you all. I would love to continue the discussion of standard industrials in another article at some point. Please reach out to me if you want to talk more about industrials, or catch my Fundamentals of Industrial Piercing class at this year’s UKAPP Conference. @miss_cale @oleanderpiercing
She is currently serving as Vice President for the Association of Professional Piercers (APP), has been a speaker at various conferences around the world
and travels regularly between America and Europe offering private studio seminars and doing guest spots. She especially enjoys engaging with new piercers in the community and helping folks make positive changes in their studios. In her free time, she loves to knit and pet cats!
Mr SebaStian
Paul King pieces together the life of internationally influential UK piercer and tattooist Alan Oversby, aka Mr Sebastian
While Mr Sebastian is arguably the most famous European piercer, many details of his life remain elusive. Although he gave plenty of interviews as a public figure, most interviewers’ questions and Mr Sebastian’s responses kept to a narrow scope of professional banter comprising how-to
tutorials, current trends and the often-told tales of his personal discovery of piercing. We continue to piece together the personal and professional facts as we find them.
What few details we have dug up reveal a fascinating and complex man. Alan was an artist, a teacher, an intellectual, and a leatherman; subdued yet passionate, he captured the attention of lovers, artists and clients.
The early years Anthony Alan Oversby was born on 20 February 1933 in Liverpool, England, to a family that has been described as ‘artistically talented’ and middle class; they even had a housemaid. Alan attended public school. His only sibling, Merial, was almost four years older. His father, Philip, was a senior partner in an insurance firm and a heterosexual crossdresser. We know still less about his mother, Mildred, except for her maiden name, Holmes. Alan’s parents divorced during his childhood.
Sometime between the ages of 18 and 21, Alan joined the UK’s National Service. National Service law was modified in 1948 to require all young men to serve in the military for 18 months. By 1950, that requirement was upped to two years. During this period of service, Alan got his first tattoo: a star on his hand.
Unemployed at 22, Alan didn’t want to follow in his father’s footsteps as an insurance broker. He chose adventure and applied to be a supervisor on a sugar plantation in South America. He set sail on the steamer ship, Hubert , on 12 May 1955, bound for Trinidad, and then connected to his final destination, Guyana (then, British Guiana).
In 1956, Alan saw two field hands with nipple rings. Their piercer was a man of Portuguese and South Asian Indian descent. He was a jeweller who used an old-fashioned ear-piercing device on both of Alan’s nipples. After two years in Guyana, Alan returned to England – and soon re-pierced his nipples deeper using a sharpened embroidery needle. Sometime after, inspired by an illustration of an African male, he pierced his foreskin too.
In 1959, at 26 years of age, Alan met Noel Arnold while they were both training to be teachers at Bretton Hall College in Yorkshire. Despite the fact that homosexuality was
still illegal in the UK and punishable by imprisonment until 1967, throughout the 1960s they openly lived together in a famous windmill called Cobstone Mill in Ibstone. The windmill was used as a filming location for TV programmes and films, including Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (1968). Although eventually polyamorous, Alan and Noel remained partners for the next 37 years until Alan’s passing.
Teaching and learning
During the 1960s and early 70s, Alan was the Art Master at a girls’ school, eventually becoming the head of the art department for three local schools. During this time, he created many ceramics that survive to this day.
Sometime in the 60s, he started to get tattooed at George Burchett’s old studio on Waterloo Road in London. Alan received his first major tattoo work from Leslie Burchett, whose world-famous father (after whom the studio was
named) had already passed away. Soon after his first visit, Alan knew he wanted to be a tattooist.
While the timeline for Alan’s tattoo metamorphosis remains elusive, we know from photographic evidence provided by Jimmie Skuse of Bristol Tattoo Club that Alan had extensive work done by Leslie Burchett by the early 70s.
The year 1975 was pivotal. Alan had just started doing some tattooing and piercing; however, he had only a few professional connections in the UK for tattooing and none for piercing. Alan’s access to the US gay underground piercing and tattooing scene influenced his decision to travel abroad for an extended research trip. We’re still unravelling the framework of social connections and how he found his way into the American underground. At some point, Cliff Raven, Sailor Sid Diller and Doug Malloy corresponded with Alan.
Doug used Alan’s images extensively for his booklet, Confessions of a Piercing Freak, aka The Art of Pierced Penises (1976), the first publication entirely dedicated to genital piercing. Doug used the sale of this booklet to pay for Alan’s flight to America. While in the States, Alan learned tattooing from Cliff Raven and Sailor Sid and picked up some piercing techniques from Doug Malloy. Sometime in 1976, at the age of 43, Alan retired from teaching to take up tattooing as a full-time career.
Vocation found
In 1977, Alan opened his first tattoo and piercing shop in Wandsworth, south London. The space was actually in the basement of Leather Unlimited, a gay leather shop owned by illustrious leatherman Alan Selby.
Much of his initial stainless-steel jewellery came from Ray Spain in the US (whose business later became Silver Anchor). Few
people know that Doug Malloy not only provided the initial seed money for Gauntlet, but he also bankrolled Mr Sebastian’s start-up. While knowledge was exchanged across the Atlantic, Mr Sebastian had to gain much of his early experience practising on his own body. He would always try a new technique or piercing on himself first, including his septum, navel and ampallang.
In 1978, the Amsterdam Tattoo Convention gathered piercing pioneers from all over the world, including Jim Ward, Doug Malloy, Sailor Sid, Tattoo Samy (Horst Streckenbach), Elizabeth Weinzirl, Rudy Inhelder and Berndt and Elke Schöbler. Even Charles Gatewood was at the convention; his images of the event appeared in newspapers and magazines, as well as
his own art books. This trip allowed for sharing of ideas and techniques, playtime, photographs and interviews. The Gauntlet Archive still has the original audiotape from Jim Ward’s interview with Mr Sebastian for PFIQ issue #4, recorded during this trip.
Alan’s reputation expanded throughout the 1980s. He became the premier body piercer and a well-respected tattoo artist. Magazines and newspapers sought out his expert opinion on trends and for how-to articles. He pierced, tattooed and
3. THE ART OF PIERCED PENISES COVER, FEATURING MR SEBASTIAN, 1976
4. ALEX BINNIE, TATTOO BY ALAN OVERSBY
5. THE SUN , 1990, COVERAGE OF OPERATION SPANNER
6. ALAN OVERSBY, 1972, LES SKUSE
collaborated with artists such as Genesis Breyer P-Orridge, Michael Leonard and Nigel Kent.
Mr Sebastian is known to have had only two formal apprentices: Mr Ronald of Amsterdam and Simon Sebastian. Ronald primarily apprenticed for piercing, and Simon primarily apprenticed for tattooing. There’s very little information available in English about Mr Ronald [Ronald van Egmond]. We know he began getting tattooed around 1975. At some point, he learned to tattoo and then later to pierce. Mr Sebastian did several well-publicised guest spots at the shop, Rob of Amsterdam. We’re not sure about the dates of Mr Ronald’s piercing apprenticeship, but it’s likely to have occurred, at least in part, during these guest spots. Simon Sebastian started his apprenticeship later in 1992 or 1993. When Alan passed away, the shop and the Sebastian name passed on to Simon.
Public eye
At some point, anyone who had known Alan commented on his remarkable voice –soothing, almost hypnotic at times, eloquent, and baritone. Genesis Breyer P-Orridge organised a score with Alan speaking and the film director Derek Jarman lip-syncing for the piece, A Message from Thee
Temple ov Psychick Youth, by Psychic TV (1983).
In 1985, Alan appeared along with other important UK tattoo personalities in the film Body Shock . The footage remains some of the best we have of Alan. After Body Shock , Mr Sebastian appeared in a heavy BDSM film, titled Like Moths to a Flame: Dungeons of Europe –An S&M Trilogy Part II Although the release date was 1988, it was most likely filmed prior to the first Operation Spanner police raid in November 1987.
In December 1990, after an imagined and superfluous murder investigation, Alan and more than a dozen other gay men were sentenced for acts that were consensual sadomasochistic sex play. The trauma of the investigation, public shaming, and years of legal aftermath surrounding Operation Spanner turned Alan’s world upside down.
The accused’s mugshots were on the front page
of tabloids with lurid and shaming headlines meant to fuel the flames of moral outrage and homophobia.
The intellectually biased decisions of the legal proceedings have warped the understanding of consent in British law to this day. The fallout has also had dramatically negative consequences for the UK in the spheres of sexuality, gender, genital piercing and body modification.
Alan’s legal council had his particular case separated from the official Spanner cases. Some of these men were sentenced to up to four-and-a-half years in prison. Although found guilty, Alan’s sentence was commuted to probation.
Saying goodbye In the aftermath, while the professional persona of Mr Sebastian’s reputation and talent grew, the private man withdrew. He became much more cautious about whom he would pierce, particularly regarding the practice of administering aesthetic. His public appearances became less frequent, and he relied more on close friends for support in social situations.
For those who did not experience the AIDS pandemic, it’s incomprehensible to grasp the emotional trauma and financial impact of losing one’s partners, lovers, friends and clients. Grief, loss and disruption weighed heavy on Alan.
Alan started having difficulty with his lungs. He went to the hospital to have
tests run… and never left. He died 8 May 1996, at the age of 63. Rumours circulated about the cause of death, which was lung cancer. Some folks assumed it was AIDS, while others attributed the cancer to his smoking. In fact, Alan’s cancer was a very rare form called mesothelioma, which is almost always caused by exposure to asbestos. Close friends were mystified as to the source of his long-term asbestos exposure. Perhaps it was the antiquated fire curtain at his backroom studio in the Odeon theatre or the questionable insulation around the ceiling pipes where Alan used to hide his injectable aesthetic? We’ll never know.
On 15 September 2019, Noel Arnold, Alan’s longterm partner, passed away.
For a while after Alan’s death, Simon Sebastian carried on the name and moved the shop to Soho in London. However, by the late 90s, most of the long-time clientele had passed away. The new piercing scene was mostly young, heterosexual and looking for quick and cheap procedures – the antithesis of the ‘House of Sebastian’ style of slow and methodical, appointmentonly, private services. While the closing of the shop ended the lineage, Mr Sebastian’s legacy continues to inspire a new generation.
@bodypiercingarchive bodypiercingarchive.org
Excerpts of this article are taken from Paul R. King’s limited-edition book, Alan Oversby Documentary Evidence , released in 2022 as a companion to the APP Conference exhibit that year.
With a heavy heart, we wish to acknowledge the generosity of time and support we received from Jeremy Castle, the former custodian of the Alan Oversby Archive. Upon his passing in 2023, the Oversby collection was passed to the UK Bishopsgate Institute, where it now forms part of the UK Fetish Archive.
I’ve been piercing for around five-and-a-half years. One of the many reasons I started piercing was because I wanted to see clients have the same smile that I have after I get pierced.
I started out in Yeovil, and then had the opportunity to shadow and work alongside Denise, head piercer and owner of the beautiful Labyrinth in Grimsby, which allowed my career and confidence to excel.
Later, working back in Yeovil, I was suddenly faced with a big decision when my two colleagues left to move into busier tattoo studios. I had two options: move to another studio myself, or take over the lease.
One of the things I’m most proud of is that I chose the lease, and have been fortunate enough to be able to shape the studio to make it piercing only. I have so many moments that I’m proud of, but making this decision has become one of my proudest, and I continue to be proud of the environment I’ve created.
I received an overwhelming amount of support, with lots of
people asking me if I was ok when I announced the signover, and I’m so grateful for that. But honestly, I was completely fine and relaxed.
After all my hard work leading up to this moment, I felt at home; I was ready for the next part of my journey within the industry.
I feel like I’ve gone from strength to strength since signing the lease. I’ve been able to create a much more personal and creative studio space, with more room for cabinets. I’ve also become a recent proud member of the Junipurr Pro Team, as well as having the life-changing opportunity to attend the APP Conference in Las Vegas, US. Next, I plan to apply for my UKAPP membership, hopefully this year.
The main thing I’d like other piercers to take from this (and I promise I’m not going to say ‘sign the lease for a studio’ because that’s not for everyone!) is to put yourself out there in the industry: post on forums, attend conferences, message piercers for advice and tips. And always just be yourself; self-growth is the best growth.
@sharp_point_piercings
When faced with a huge decision, Alex Buck I ngh Am of Sharp Point Piercings in Yeovil rose to the challenge and made it his time to shine!
Zeraphine
Helix: Daydream / Lower Helix: Perdita 3 & Morbius
Annie Nasta
Piercer at Shaman Modifications in Dallas, TX