The Skinny Guide to Glasgow 2021 by The Skinny

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Credits

Rosamund West Editor-in-Chief

Peter Simpson Digital Editor, Food & Drink Editor

Anahit Behrooz Events Editor

Jamie Dunn Film Editor, Online Journalist

Adam Benmakhlouf Art Editor

Eliza Gearty Theatre Editor

Tony Inglis Writer

Tara Hepburn Glasgow Venues Editor

Dalila D'Amico Art Director, Production Manager

Phoebe Willison Designer

Sandy Park Commercial Director

Tom McCarthy Creative Projects Manager

George Sully Sales and Brand Strategist

Laurie Presswood General Manager

THE SKINNY

Tallah Brash Music Editor

Welcome his new Glasgow guide is designed to help you find your way around Scotland’s biggest (some might say best) city, and share a few of the places that locals and regular visitors love to go. It was created by the team behind The Skinny magazine, who produce a free monthly magazine covering all things cultural, which you should be able to find in venues throughout the city. Trying to sum up Glasgow in one small guide is perhaps an impossible feat. It’s a place with many faces – Scotland’s most diverse city, worldrenowned for music and art, and also for shipbuilding, engineering, architecture, with a history of community activism, protest, home of the Rent Strikes and Red Clydeside. And also Rab C. Nesbitt? Football. It’s been rich – the ‘second city of the Empire’ – and it’s been poor – struggling through deindustrialisation and Westminster-imposed ‘managed decline’ to be reborn as the 1990 European City of Culture, a world-renowned centre for the arts, home to innumerable Turner nominees and probably your favourite band. The current city branding of People Make Glasgow is spot on, although previous city brandings of Glasgow’s Miles Better and Glasgowforit also deserve an honourable mention. In this guide, we hope to celebrate the city, its people, a little of its past and present

while also telling you the best places to get a pint, a coffee, a pizza, a vegan meal. We have, perhaps controversially, split the city into eight areas, to offer a taste of the different characters of Glasgow as you move through it, as well as detailed recommendations on where to go. We’ve spoken to some notable local residents to find out why they love living here, despite the (impossible to ignore) rain. Our guides to Glasgow music, clubs and art spaces explore the venues and the histories of these overlapping communities. Reflecting on the city’s history of grassroots activism, the best people we could think of to talk to were Glasgow Women’s Library. We learn about their inspiring space and programme as they turn 30. Speaking of activism, the arrival of COP26 has prompted a frankly headspinning number of events to be planned across the city, bringing together organisers local and international to engage, debate and share everything from legal strategies on lobbying government to climbing skills for direct action. We’ve compiled a few recommendations from the literally hundreds of things planned for the weeks of the summit. Finally, the jewel in the crown of this guide – Kingsley. On our centre pages sits an interview with the world’s greatest mascot, Partick Thistle’s very own, David Shrigley-designed screaming sun. Welcome to Glasgow.

Welcome

Illustration

@_katiesmith_illustration_

Glasgow City Guide

Katie Smith is an illustrator based in Glasgow, currently studying Communication Design at Glasgow School of Art. Her work is playful and colourful, inspired by all the good things in life – nature, female beauty, plants and sunshine. Her use of bright colours promote a positive attitude and wellbeing to brighten up your day.

Contents

Contents 5 Welcome 10 Map

Area-by-area 14 City Centre by Tallah Brash

20 Merchant City & Trongate by Jamie Dunn

25 East End by Tony Inglis

29 West End by Peter Simpson

33 North by Laurie Presswood

37 Finnieston & Partick by Tony Inglis

46 Southside by Eliza Gearty

Down 2. RAB 3. FLIMSY 4. IN GOOD SPIRITS 5. CIVICS 6. NEWSPAPER 7. CAPALDI 8. ODD 12. IMPROMPTU 14. TRAMWAY 18. ORANGE 19. VENEER 22. WHY

Crossword Solutions Across 1. TRAFFIC CONE 9. AMBLING 10. VOWED 11. AMI 13. SNOWCAPS 15. DIPS 16. SSE 17. SPUR 20. LORRAINE 21. RUM 23. HOP ON 24. INERTIA 26. QUEEN STREET

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51 Gorbals, Kinning Park, Cessnock & Govan by Tara Hepburn

Workshop Exhibitions Courses Shop

glasgowprintstudio.co.uk

Admission free Tuesday-Saturday 10.30am-5.30pm Photography courtesy Fiona Watson

520 VICTORIA ROAD, GLASGOW,

0141 433 9152

SOMEGREATREWARD.SCOT

@SGR_RECORDCAFE

Glasgow City Guide

G42 8BG

Kana Kawashima First Violin

F R I D AY N I G H T S IN GL ASGOW EXPLORE OUR SEASON AT SCO.ORG.UK £6 TICKETS FOR UNDER 26

Company Registration Number: SC075079. A charity registered in Scotland No. SC015039.

Cultural guide

Contents

19 Ask a Local: Stephen McRobbie of Monorail Music and The Pastels fame on his favourite things to do in Glasgow 36 Ask a Local: Suz O’Neill and David Fleming from community internet station Radio Buena Vida tell us about their favourite things in Glasgow 42 Ask a Local: We sit down with Partick Thistle FC mascot Kingsley to find out when they last cried, who they’d like to go on a night out with and what their favourite thing about Glasgow is Kingsley

44 Ask a Local: Musical polymath Kapil Seshasayee shares some of his favourite things about Glasgow

Photo: Cameron Brisbane

50 Ask a Local: Southside resident and multi-hyphenate Halina Rifai tells us what she loves about her local area as well as who her favourite Glasgow band of all time are 54 Ask a Local: Alex Allan from Govan Project Space tells us why an uninsulated warehouse near former dry docks is the perfect space for an arts venue 56 Daytrips! We take a closer look at some of our favourite places to visit outside of Glasgow including islands, castles and other Scottish cities within easy reach 59 A guide to Glasgow’s musical heritage and abundance of live music venues

LCD Soundsystem at the Barrowlands

63 A tour of Glasgow’s galleries and arts spaces 66 We find out how the David Livingstone Birthplace Museum is telling a more honest story about the Victorian explorer 68 A guide to Glasgow clubbing 70 David Bratchpiece and Kirstin Innes on their new book Brickwork: A Biography of The Arches

76 We take a look at some of the fringe events happening around the COP26 United Nations Climate Conference

78 Index 82 Crossword

Glasgow City Guide

Arches clubbers , 1990's

72 We chat to Gabrielle Macbeth from the Glasgow Women’s Library about documenting erased histories, the rich community of Glasgow’s East End, and the importance of radical practices

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Map

Find the exact location of every venue listed via the QR code.

Key City Centre Merchant City & Trongate East End West End North

Southside Gorbals, Kinning Park, Cessnock & Govan

Glasgow City Guide

Finnieston & Partick

Original map courtesy of Google maps and Snazzy Maps, CC0 1.0 11

City Centre Nestled in the nook of the busy M8 motorway which connects this former City of Architecture and Design to Edinburgh, Glasgow’s bustling City Centre, just north of the River Clyde, can be confusing at first. But get to grips with its grid system of streets and you’ll be parading around like a local in no time; pay close attention and you may even recognise certain parts of the city from major blockbusters like Fast & Furious Presents: Hobbs & Shaw or World War Z.

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During the day, the City Centre is great for shopping and art, and by night it comes alive with restaurants, bars, gigs and clubs aplenty, meaning you can quite literally spend the whole day in central Glasgow without even a hint of boredom setting in. It’s also the ideal jumping off point for exploring other parts of the city, with transport links always within walking distance.

uring the day a hot cuppa is a must for most and you can’t go wrong with a trip to the Italian-inspired Laboratorio Espresso (93 W Nile St), serving up delicious cannoli and clean batch brews alongside the usual options. Near Central Station, small batch coffee roasters Gordon Street Coffee (79 Gordon St) serve up excellent pastries and coffees with their in-house roastery just upstairs. Across the street is Riverhill Coffee Bar (24 Gordon St) and artisan doughnut shop Tantrum Doughnuts (28 Gordon St). In the west of the city centre, Singl-end (263 Renfrew St) is a must for coffee and cake, with great Singl-end light brunch options too. If you’re looking for something Shopping with a bit more punch, trendy bars and old fashioned boozers can be found on hile the phrase ‘shop ‘til you literally every street, basement, back drop’ wasn’t invented in alley and corner of the city centre. Glasgow, we wouldn’t be surprised if Near Central Station, Stereo (22-28 it was. With three pedestrianised Renfield Ln) is a must. Housed in a shopping thoroughfares – building designed by Charles Rennie Buchanan Street, Sauchiehall Mackintosh, upstairs is a Street (pronounced Sucky-hall) and vegan bar and restaurant Argyle Street – and several shopping while you’ll find all centres – St Enoch, Buchanan manner of touring and Galleries, Princes Square, Argyll local bands gigging in the Arcade and The Savoy Centre – you’ll basement. Across the be hard pressed to not find exactly lane, their cosy sister what you’re looking for. venue The Old There’s an abundance of Hairdresser’s is a independent shops to be found here popular bar and gallery too. The super cute basement gift space, while round the shop Maia Gifts (21 Bath St) is perfect corner (also in the Stereo to pick up something kitsch while family) is The Flying Tabac FireWorks Studio (35a Dalhousie St) is Duck (142 Renfield St). a must for ceramics fans. Book lovers The Horseshoe Bar will want to head to Aye Aye Books in (17-19 Drury Ln) is one for Travis fans the CCA (350 Sauchiehall St) or the as it’s where the Why Does It Always Tell It Slant poetry bookshop (134 Rain On Me? hitmakers formed. A few Renfrew St), while comic book and minutes away is Bier Halle (9 Gordon graphic novel fans should head to St), a subterranean German-style beer Forbidden Planet (122-126 Sauchiehall hall serving hotdogs and steins of St). For another record to add to your beer. On Mitchell Lane, Tabac (no. 10) music collection, be sure to stop and Bar Soba (no. 11) are both great for by Love Music (34 Dundas St).

City Center

Image Courtesy of Singl-end

Drinks

Glasgow City Guide 15

City Center

Image Courtesy of Sugo

fusion plates and indulgent cocktails. More cocktails can be found nearby at Max’s Bar & Grill (73 Queen St), where you’ll also find the La Cheetah nightclub in the basement. Basement gig venues and nightclubs can also be found in Nice N Sleazy and Broadcast on Sauchiehall Street (no. 421 and 427 respectively), while The Variety Bar (401 Sauchiehall St) and The State Bar (148-148a Holland St) are great for a nearby pre- or post-gig drink, the latter giving a true taste of old Glasgow with a great selection of cask ales. Rock fans should head to Rufus T Firefly (207 Hope St), while across the road The Pot Still (no. 154) is a must for whisky fans with their malt of the month offering and generous 35ml measures.

Sugo

Food

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s well as good drinking spots, Sauchiehall Street is awash with great eateries too. Starting at the west end, you’d be hard pushed to find more authentic Vietnamese cuisine in the city centre than at Non Viet (no. 536), while great Japanese food can be found at Nanakusa (no. 441). For an excellent on-the-go option Falafel To Go (no. 116) offer up affordable, fresh and super tasty wraps. Veggies and vegans will love the light and spacious Saramago Cafe and Bar inside the CCA (no. 350), which has an especially good Sunday brunch menu. Elsewhere, for Italian cuisine head to Sarti (121 Bath St; 133 Wellington St), Sugo (70 Mitchell St) or Pizza Punks (90 St Vincent St); for Japanese, Thai and Korean options try Maki & Ramen (21 Bath St), Ting Thai Caravan (19 W Nile St) and Bibimbap (3 W Nile St) respectively. If Mexican street food is more your bag, add Topolobamba (89 St Vincent St) to your hitlist, while burger fiends should try Bread Meats Bread – just be sure to order a side of poutine. Finally, in the former Arches

venue near Central Station you’ll find street food market Platform (253 Argyle St) with rotational food trucks and an in-house microbrewery from Innis & Gunn.

Things to do

espite being housed in the former townhouse of William Cunnhinghame, an 18th century Tobacco Lord(!!), the Gallery of Modern Art (111 Queen St) is Scotland’s most visited modern art gallery with free exhibitions from local and international artists. The award-winning Centre for Contemporary Arts (CCA) (350 Sauchiehall St) is an arts hub with diverse year-round programming, while the nearby Glasgow School of Art’s Reid Building hosts regular exhibitions. The Lighthouse (11 Mitchell Ln), Scotland’s Centre for Design and Architecture, is mandatory for Mackintosh fans as he designed the original building in the late 19th century; be sure to check out the views from the Mackintosh Tower. For a full Gallery guide head to p63. Originally opened in 1903, and

Photo: Neil Thomas Douglas Saramago Cafe and Bar inside the CCA

City Center THE SKINNY

Image Courtesy of Glasgow Film Theatre

Glasgow Film Theatre

Image Courtesy of Mackintosh at the Willow

also designed by Mackintosh, fans of tea will want to visit the iconic Mackintosh at the Willow tea rooms (215-217 Sauchiehall St), while for a unique slice of history The Tenement House (145 Buccleuch St) in Garnethill offers a rare glimpse into Glasgow life in the early 20th century. Garnethill also boasts one of the city centre’s only green spaces in Garnethill Park, while on its periphery you’ll also find The Art Launderette (39 Dalhousie St), a fully functioning launderette with regular exhibitions. Home to the Scottish Opera, The Theatre Royal (282 Hope St) is the oldest theatre in Glasgow, and the longest running in Scotland having opened in 1867. The Pavilion Theatre (121 Renfield St) and King’s Theatre (297 Bath St) have no shortage of offerings too, with plenty of big name stand-up comedians stopping by and an abundance of panto over the festive season. Cinephiles should head for the Glasgow Film Theatre (GFT), the UK’s first purpose-built arthouse theatre outside of London. Built in 1939, just before WW2, it originally opened as the Cosmo, changing its name to the GFT in 1974, and almost five decades on is still going strong with regular film screenings and the annual Glasgow Film Festival.

Mackintosh at the Willow

There’s also no shortage of live music venues and nightclubs to be found here too, with several venues on Sauchiehall Street alone; the famous King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut (272A St Vincent St) and world renowned Sub Club (22 Jamaica St) are also in the city centre. For more on Glasgow’s music and clubbing scene head to p59 and p68 respectively.

Travel

lasgow’s city centre is a great starting off point for exploring other parts of the city, with low level trains from Glasgow Central Station (Gordon St) to Exhibition Centre speedily taking you to the OVO Hydro on the banks of the River Clyde. Similarly, low level trains from Queen Street Station (N Hanover St) are a great option for a quick jaunt to Partick and Finnieston where you’ll find the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum and SWG3. In the city centre you can also hop on the 10.5k circular Glasgow Subway from Buchanan Street making for easy connections to other parts of the city both north and south of the river.

Ask a local

Stephen McRobbie As frontman of The Pastels, Stephen McRobbie has been an integral part of Glasgow’s musical DNA for decades. But an equally vital contribution to the scene is his record store Monorail Music, which he opened with Dep Downie in Kings Court in 2002 How did you come to set up Monorail in Kings Court? It happened quite naturally. We’d been looking for a while and hadn’t been able to find anything inspiring – lack of budget and other factors. Maybe we weren’t quite sure what we were looking for. Craig Tannock from The 13th Note was also looking for a new place to expand his ventures and invited us to come and have a look at this corner space under a railway line. It had the most potential of anything we’d seen and it was appealing to be in the same place as Craig. I wrote down a bunch of potential names for us and Monorail Music seemed the most apt. Craig then said he’d like to use Mono if we were ok with it and we said yes, of course.

to be next door to really nice people who are doing brilliant things – Strung Out Guitars, Mr Ben, Shawarma King.

Apart from Monorail and Mono, do you have any favourite places to hang out in the area? What do you think drew so Project Ability is just always many arts spaces and creative coming up with so much businesses – Transmission, exciting work. I love being able 13th Note, the Tron etc – to to go across and look at their this part of town? work if I need to feel inspired. Cheap rent and a feeling that And it’s great to have South you could be part of someBlock and the Modern Institute thing creative with good close by. I usually try to go for neighbours. Glasgow Council a walk on my lunch – along the invested in Trongate 103 and river or Glasgow Green or then the Modern Institute maybe GOMA. moved down here and then Good Press took on their own place. It just feels like a vibrant little scene. I’m sure Find Monorail Music, Glasgow’s everyone came here for their own reasons but it’s been very best record shop, at 12 Kings Court, King Street symbiotic. We feel very proud Photo: Katrina Mitchell Monorail Music staff with Jarvis Cocker

Glasgow City Guide

What was the ambition for the shop in the beginning and how has that changed over the years? I suppose survival was a big part of the initial ambition. Both Dep and I (and others too) had committed to it heavily in different ways and we wanted to make sure that it wasn’t just a flash in the pan. We wanted it to be a brilliant, world-class record shop but also wanted it to be part of

something else too – part of what was going on in Glasgow, providing a platform for the music we loved and respected. Taking things more seriously in a way but also trying to be friendly and inclusive – community focused.

Merchant City & Trongate Many sides of Glasgow rub up against one another in this corner of town. The lavish architecture of the Merchant City points to the prosperity of Victorian-era Glasgow, a wealth that the city is just beginning to reckon with given it was built off the back of the slave trade. Today the area, home to fashion boutiques and fancy cocktail bars, acts as the unofficial poster boy for the city; if you’ve ever seen a Visit Glasgow ad, chances are shots of this neighbourhood’s palatial streets and well-heeled revellers were included.

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Marketeers rarely point their cameras south to Trongate, however. The link between the shopping thoroughfare of Argyle Street and Glasgow Cross, the historic gateway into Old Glasgow, this is where the city’s capitalistic excess recedes, giving way to the more authentic side of town. As with many cities, it’s here, in the neglected corners, that artists have made their home, with some of Glasgow’s most creative venues, most adventurous galleries and most-loved independent shops found in the streets sandwiched between Trongate, Saltmarket and the Clyde.

Merchant City & Trongate

Photo: Sprigg Sprigg

Merchant City Food

Drinks

t’s in the evening that Merchant City is at its most lively. Venues like Merchant Square (a busy cluster of restaurants and pubs in a covered courtyard) and Bar 91 (91 Candleriggs) are popular with after-work drinkers and couples on date nights. But bars here can be a bit pricier than other areas of Glasgow, so we’d point you in the direction of the more cheap and cheerful boozers on the periphery of Merchant City, like Strathduie Bar (3-5 Blackfriars St), an ace pie and ale howff, and Babbity Bowster (16-18 Blackfriars St), which has a fab wee beer garden. Another great outdoor space, and easily missed, is the tucked-away tapas place Brutti Compadres (3 Virginia Ct).

Glasgow City Guide

nce the haunt of Tobacco Barons like John Glassford and Archibald Ingram (whose names still adorn Merchant City’s two chief thoroughfares), this part of town now specialises in designer clothing stores, cocktail bars and high-end restaurants. But in among the flash are some of Glasgow’s hippest food and drink destinations. For example, no trip to this part of town should be complete without a stop at Paesano (94 Miller St). This Napoletana pizza place is always hopping, with its wood-fired ovens throwing out the tastiest pizzas in the city (arguably the country). It’s by no means the only Italian joint in this neck of the woods, though. Take a glance down the pedestrianised John Street – home to relaxed Italian cafe Osteria (no. 17) and pizza joint Slice (no. 15), as well as The Italian Centre (no. 7) – on a particularly warm day and you might mistake it for Milan. If Paesano is Glaswegians’ favourite pizza, neighbours Piece (100 Miller St) could lay claim to being their best-loved sandwich place. And if you’re after something less doughbased, head around the corner to

Sprigg (241 Ingram St) for a tasty range of freshly made salad bowls. Long a Merchant City institution is Cafe Gandolfi (64 Albion St), who arguably serve the best breakfast this side of the M8, but not far behind is bakehouse Singl-end (15 John St), a fave for weekend brunch. Newer on the scene is Plantyful (3 Osborne St), an all plant-based bakery and deli that’s helping Merchant City join Glasgow’s extremely vegan-friendly food scene.

Merchant City & Trongate

Clubs in this part of town, like the trendy Corinthian Club (191 Ingram St) and the Mediterranean-themed Arta (62 Albion St), cater to the ‘young professional’ crowd. Merchant City is also home to Glasgow’s LGBTQ+ community, with gay bars and clubs peppered across it. Katie’s Bar (17 John St), Delmonicas (68 Virginia St) and The Underground (6A John St) all guarantee a fun pre-club atmosphere while AXM (90 Glassford St) and Polo Lounge (84 Wilson St) are the two big destinations where you can dance the night away. The pick of the LGBTQ+ hangouts, however, might be The Riding Room (58 Virginia St), which is loved for its wild cabaret nights.

Trongate a dedicated photography gallery space; Glasgow Print Studio, which contains a custom-built printmakers workshop and two exhibition spaces; rongate is home to some of the and Project Ability, an essential gallery city’s most-loved arts and culture championing local amateur artists with institutions. Established in 1983 by a learning disabilities. group of young Turks from the School Another key contemporary art of Art, Transmission Gallery (28 King institution is The Modern Institute, St) is a vital artist-run space supporting which has two galleries in this part early-career artists. Former Edwardian of town: an intimate warehouse space warehouse Trongate 103 (103 Trongate), underneath a railway arch (14-20 Osborne St) and a more airy gallery meanwhile, is home to several other housed in a former glass-blowing important artist spaces. It houses factory (3 Aird’s Ln). And The Briggait Street Level Photoworks, (141 Bridgegate), a splendid Victorian market hall, is a buzz of artistic endeavours, featuring dozens of artist studios, two exhibition spaces and a gorgeous indoor courtyard. The nearby South Block (60-64 Osborne St) is a similar hive of activity, combining a public ground floor gallery with studios above. Within Trongate 103 you’ll also find the utterly unique Sharmanka, an amazing exhibition of hundreds of tiny carved figures that perform a haunting show set to music telling tragicomic tales of human endurance. The theatrThe Tron Theatre icality continues a few doors over in

Cultural venues and art galleries

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Photo: John Johnston

Merchant City & Trongate

Photo: Minted

(10 King St), serving up authentic Russian fare in gorgeous surroundings.

Indie shops

Minted

a former church that’s home to the Tron Theatre Company (63 Trongate), one of the most important producers of contemporary theatre in Scotland.

Food and drink

Billy Connoly mural

Glasgow City Guide

ono (12 Kings Court) and The 13th Note (50-60 King St) are sister venues with an ethos of serving delicious plant-based scran, tasty beers in a welcoming atmosphere and hosting great gigs featuring local and touring indie artists. Closer to the Clyde you’ll find two even more well-established Glasgow boozers: The Clutha (169 Stockwell St) and The Scotia (112 Stockwell St). Both reek of Glasgow history, are old haunts of the city’s favourite son, Billy Connelly, and usually have some form of toe-tapping live music in the evenings. Music also runs through the veins of Maggie May’s (60 Trongate), an always lively rock bar. If it’s food you’re after in this part of town you’d be mad to overlook one of Glasgow’s finest takeaways: Shawarma King (113 King St); as you can probably guess, shawarma – as well as kebabs and falafel – are on the menu. Another adored local eatery is Cafe Cossachok

Photo: Tallah Brash

rguably Glasgow’s best indie record shop, Monorail Music, is located inside Mono, where you’ll often find co-owner Stephen McRobbie of The Pastels behind the counter or rearranging the crates. Comic book nuts, meanwhile, can find a great selection of comics (new and vintage) and graphic novels around the corner at A1 Toys (31 Parnie St). Across the arcade from Mono is vintage shop Mr Ben (6 Kings Court), which has been keeping Glasgow scenesters stylish for decades. But if you can’t find anything in their huge collection of retro clobber don’t worry, there are two other great second-hand clothing shops next door – Minted and West Vintage – and within spitting distance is The City Retro Fashion (41 King St), making this corner of Glasgow a fashionista’s delight.

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East End Connected by the long stretch of Duke Street, Glasgow’s East End, once vaunted for a significant uplift by the 2014 Commonwealth Games, has instead grown in a more organic way. Stretching from the Gallowgate to Dennistoun and beyond the football stadium at Parkhead, it retains its sense of community spirit, with the full scale of gentrification not quite reached yet. The East End is a place where the rich tradition and history of Glasgow’s musical heritage combines with bustling, top quality independent food outlets, cool and comfortable drinking holes and, with property prices lower than to the west and south, a buzzy sense of something happening with young people congregating there. It also contains some of the city’s more underappreciated green spaces. Dennistoun was ranked the 8th coolest neighbourhood in the world last year by Time Out. It may feel a bit more rough and ready than some of the glitzier places on that list, but embedding yourself within it you’ll realise why it was granted that honour.

Glasgow City Guide 25

East End

Image: courtesy of East Coffee COmpany

Necropolis in the ground floor of the Cathedral House Hotel. It offers a vibey night of fine dining with wine from taps and small plates of Italian inspired food with a contemporary twist.

Things to do

he Glasgow Necropolis is a short walk up the hill from Duke Street, located next to the cathedral, and boasting perhaps the best view of the Food and drink city. Frolicking between the headstones with your headphones on listening to uke Street boasts several eateries goth tunes as the sun goes down is worth your time. Mesa (567 Duke severely underrated. Alexandra Park is St) has the best coffee and even better one of the lesser appreciated green sandwiches – dare you not to buy the spaces in Glasgow. There are points on special every time it changes. Sweet its slopes where it’d be easy to forget Jane (434 Duke St) across the road you are even in the city were it not for provides the structural integrity the nearby M8’s ambient hiss of traffic. (bread) of their sandwiches and Glasgow Green is the other end of the delectable cakes and pastries of all spectrum – huge and spacious and kinds, and down the road is vegan cafe lining the river, away from everything Rawnchy (98 Bellgrove St). Baked (120 else. TRNSMT festival takes place there Duke St) is an excellent pizza slice each summer, and it’s home to the shop (try the potato and rosemary) former Templeton Carpet Factory, a with moreish arancini offerings. Arancini is plentiful over here it seems, as up at Alexandra Parade, Italian deli Celino’s (no. 620 Alexandra Parade) has mounds of the stuff, as well as cold meats and focaccia you can take up the park when it’s sunny. In terms of bars, Redmonds (304 Duke St) and Palais (380 Duke St) are cosy neighbourhood dives for a late drink. Larger breweries WEST (15 Binnie Pl) and Drygate (85 Drygate) offer their huge selection of beers, good food and huge open spaces for large groups. Good coffee is in abundance too: East Coffee Company (30 Hillfoot St) and Tapa Coffee & Bakehouse (19-21 Whitehill St) have small spots off the main road, and city institution Dear Green (13-27 E Campbell St) roast their blend in the East End too. For a more extravagant eating experience, head to the relatively new Celentano’s (28-32 Cathedral Square), situated next to the East Coffee Company

Image: courtesy of Zero Waste Market

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Zero Waste Market 26

East End

Image: courtesy of Lain Robertson Flowers Vermillion

19th-century brick impression of a Venetian palazzo. People’s Palace is there too which gives a nice overview of Glasgow’s history. If you want to see some sport, Celtic play at Celtic Park, Parkhead and the Sir Chris Hoy Velodrome is across the road. The jewel in the crown of the East End though is Glasgow Women’s Library (23 Landressy St) in Bridgeton, a community-driven, grassroots-established celebration of the lives and achievements of the city’s women, boasting art, archival materials and exhibitions. Read a full interview with them on p72.

Street, get lost in the piles of books at Good Press (2 St. Andrews St), or find something beautiful for your home at conceptual florist Flowers Vermillion (18 St. Andrews St) who share a space with independent lifestyle shop Squid Ink Co. Just off Duke Street, the Zero Waste Market (17 Hillfoot St) offers a sustainable way to get your groceries.

Getting there and getting away

he length of Duke Street that runs from High Street train station to Bellgrove is the most underrated walk in terms of time taken in this small Shops city. It takes far longer than it originally n the weekend, The Barras seems and there is very little to occupy Market (242 Gallowgate) still goes you along the way other than some on despite being a shadow of its former undeveloped land where the old self. Vendors sell their wares come rain abattoir used to be or the Tennent’s or shine, hawking everything from brewery. So, unless you’re planning on pirate DVDs to vintage clothing. But going for a pint at Drygate, getting to now it’s surrounded by small arts where the good stuff is may be best shops that stick out for their uniqueleft to the bus or train, the latter of ness in the city. Two of the best are which there are three – Bellgrove and Ripe (Barras Market, Moncur St), a tiny Duke Street on the line to Edinburgh or magazine shop selling high quality nearby Alexandra Parade. High Street independent journalism with innovative will get you close enough to get down design that spills out onto the street, to the Gallowgate or Bridgeton, or if and Submarine (8 Kent St), which you’re feeling limber, you could walk stocks prints from local artists. Down along from Argyle Street station or St nearer Glasgow Green on St Andrew’s Enoch’s subway.

Glasgow City Guide 27

West End Glasgow’s glittering West End – a mix of shabby chic and old-money lads in massive villas, with students littered as far as the eye can see. The Kelvin passes through the middle of this part of town, with its eponymous bridge, hall and grove marking key points on your travels. Its two bisecting high streets – Byres Road and Great Western Road – offer endless indie shops, cafes and bars, while the sidestreets, alleys and surrounds are packed with hidden gems. It’s a great place to walk around, so we’ve compiled a walking tour based around the area’s main thoroughfares.

Glasgow City Guide 29

West End

Great Western Road

brilliant beers and a delightful riverside terrace. The same folk are responsible iven the name, it makes sense to for Valhalla’s Goat (no. 449), an head west down the Great Western expertly-stocked beer and wine shop, Road, with the first key stop coming at while Roots Fruits and Flowers (no. The Hug and Pint (no. 171). You’ll 455) will sort you out with some great find delicious vegan food and drinks groceries to go with all the beer you’ve upstairs, and a cosy and expertlyjust purchased. The city’s best pizza programmed gig space in the basement. can be found at Paesano – their West Further on, there’s a clutch of excellent End branch is just up the road at no. places to eat, drink and stock up. 471, and if you need a new read for your Lupe Pinto’s (no. 313) is a must for post-pizza lull, head a few doors up to North and Central American ingredients the second-hand book haven of from chilis to corn tortillas to chicharCaledonia Books (no. 483). At the end rones; Bananamoon (no. 360) is a of the block, Cottonrake Bakery (no. riotous cocktail bar powered by a 497) will fix you up with some fancy and top-notch sound system and classic delicious cakes and pastry. drinks; Serenity Now (no. 380) offers Continue on and you’ll hit a pair of up vegan breakfast options and cafe excellent cafes – Kothel (no. 536) offer staples; Te Seba (no. 393-395) will blow up an all-day coffee shop with options your socks off with incredible pasta for everyone, while Papercup (no. 603) dishes and apparently endless serve one of the best espressos in the variations on the bellini. Websters city with beans from their own roastery. Theatre (no. 416) presents a range of Head for the hanging baskets, cold theatre, comedy and music and is also pints and cosy vibes at The Belle (no. handy for a pre-subway stop-off, while 617), and keep walking until you hit the The Blankfaces (no. 427) create Òran Mór. That’s Byres Road, and it’s designer threads with the help of time to start all over again. homeless Glaswegians, with the profits going to the city’s homeless community. Woodlands Kelvin Pocket (72 S Woodlands f straight lines aren’t your thing, take a Rd), underneath the stairs to the left from Great Western Road and Kelvinbridge subway stop, serves up you’ll head into the windy avenues of great coffee, while crossing the River Woodlands, south of GWR and east of Kelvin leads to a host of places worth Byres Road. You’ll find a bit of everychecking out. Inn Deep (no. 445) has thing, starting with some lovely green space. Kelvingrove Park is one of the city’s best, with plenty of walking routes and things to do, as well as offering a charming off-street route towards Finnieston and Partick. Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum (Argyle St) is one of the city’s key attractions, and Glasgow University’s Hunterian Gallery and Museum (University of Glasgow, 82 Hillhead St) are also nearby if you fancy a day of looking at Cool Old Stuff. Inn Deep

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Image: courtesy of Inn Deep

Top tip – Kelvingrove is all in one place, but the Hunterian Gallery and Museum are in two different buildings on opposite sides of the street. The Glasgow outpost of The Stand Comedy Club (no. 333 Woodlands Rd) is just east of the river, north of the park. For food and drink, take your pick from deliciously meaty burgers at El Perro Negro (no. 152 Woodlands Rd), incredible falafel from Mrs Falafel (1 Ashley St), classic old school pubs The Arlington (no. 130 Woodlands Rd) and The Doublet (no. 74 Park Rd), lively bar DRAM! (no. 232 Woodlands Rd) or the extremely laid-back Tchai-Ovna House of Tea (no. 42 Otago Ln).

Byres Road

Kimchi Cult

Glasgow City Guide

tarting at Kelvinhall subway station, where the West End turns into Partick, Byres Road is synonymous with the Glasgow student experience. A good first port of call, then, is the University Cafe (no. 87). One of the city’s many Italian cafes and ice cream parlours, this one’s been on the go for more than a century, and is more than worth a look regardless of any gelato-resistant weather. A more recent addition that inspires near-equal fervour is the Korean-inspired street food of Kimchi Cult, just off the main road at 14 Chancellor St. Continue up the hill and you’ll find exciting art at the multi-functional

Image: courtesy of Kimchi Cult

West End

Image: courtesy of Cottonrake Bakery

gallery/cafe The Alchemy Experiment (no. 157), a good coffee to keep you going at Tinderbox (no. 189) and a great pint at Tennent’s Bar across the street (no. 191). Keep going towards Hillhead subway and you’ll enter what we’ll call The Lane Zone. On your right, Ashton Lane – a lovely cobbled street lined Cottonrake Bakery with bars and restaurants, with trailblazing restaurant Ubiquitous Chip (no. 12) and Belgian beer bar Brel (no. 37-43) among the highlights. On the left, Ruthven Lane – it’s not as flash, but its collection of indie shops including the always-intriguing Ruthven Mews (no. 57 Ruthven Ln) arcade and the vintage wares at Starry Starry Night (no. 19 Dowanside Ln) are well worth checking out. Ruthven Lane is also home to the excellent Hanoi Bike Shop (no. 8 Ruthven Ln), a quaint Vietnamese restaurant whose one-time endorsement by Beyoncé has entered it into Scottish food legend. Further up to the right and slightly round the corner, De Courcy’s Arcade (no. 5-21 Cresswell Ln) is home to a selection of arty shops, with the lovely Japanese stationery at DRAW our particular favourite.

West End

Photo: Jamie Stone

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Butho The Warrior playing at The Alchemy

All the way up Byres Road you’ll find various charity and thrift shops, with the Oxfam Music (no. 171) and Bookshop (no. 330) ideal if you need something to keep yourself entertained. At the top of the road, across from the Botanics, stop in at Òran Mór to catch a gig, grab a pint, or just gawk at Alasdair Gray’s ceiling mural (one of the largest artworks in the whole country!), while round the back on Vinicombe Street you’ll find tasty

drinks and food at Hillhead Bookclub (no. 17) and Ka Pao (no. 26). Over the road are the Glasgow Botanics (730 Great Western Rd), an ideal destination for strolls, and various light-based events all year round. The jewel in the gardens’ crown is arguably the grandeur of Kibble Palace, a former exhibition space and concert venue-turned bright and spacious home for tree ferns.

North

To the north of Great Western Road lie several different neighbourhoods, strung together down the Forth and Clyde canal. To the south-west, packed between the canal and the River Kelvin lie Maryhill and North Kelvinside, land historically owned by literal Mary Hill and today a residential area frequented by students and locals alike. Glasgow City Guide

East of the canal you’ll find Port Dundas, a 19th-century industrial hub which in recent years has given birth to many exciting cultural projects, with organisations ranging from National Theatre of Scotland to members of the Glasgow Canal Co-operative residing in the vicinity.

North

Go outdoors

rom the Botanics, you can latch onto the Kelvin Walkway for a leafy amble over the Ha’Penny Bridge and up towards Maryhill. Across the river, walk along to the Children’s Wood and North Kelvin Meadow (76 Kelbourne St), to visit the last wild space in Glasgow’s West End. As outdoor spaces go, Ruchill Park has a bit of everything. Feeling sporty? Head over to the Disc Golf Course (and watch out for flying discs). Fancy a jog? There are plenty of routes to take, from the pleasant and flat to the torturously uphill. Want to get your bearings? Go up to the flagpole and see what you can make out from its vantage point; bonus points for doing more than just pointing at the Hydro then getting your east and west mixed up.

Things to do

f you like being high off the ground but don’t care so much about the views, The Climbing Academy’s Prop Store (24 Craigmont St) is a varied selection of bouldering walls crammed into the BBC’s old prop warehouse (hence the curious name). After another way to get active indoors? Check out the Loading Bay skatepark (Borron St) – a state of the art park with bowl and street skating layouts,

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Image Courtesy of Civic House 34

Film Screening at Civic House

modular ramps, a trampoline room for practising your tricks, and a cafe. In a similar vein, Pinkston Watersports (75 N Canal Bank St) is Scotland’s only artificial whitewater course, with tubing, paddle boarding and canoeing all on offer. For a dive into the city’s cultural past, the historic Queen's Cross Church (870 Garscube Rd) can be found just round the corner from a four-storey-high mural of the sun that closely resembles local team Partick Thistle’s magnificent mascot Kingsley (Northpark St). One is a site of worship and iconography that has left its mark on Glasgow’s art world; the other is the Charles Rennie Mackintosh church. The banks of the canal north of the M8 are home to a huge array of creative folk. Many of them can be found in The Whisky Bond (2 Dawson Rd), a hub of creative workspaces, events spaces and artists’ studios, which also incorporates the Glasgow Sculpture Studios. Round the corner, Carnival Arts Yard and Grey Wolf Studios (124 and 131 Craighall Rd) are well worth a look – Grey Wolf’s Christmas market in early December is always fantastic. Civic House (26 Civic St) is a community-minded arts space, host to exhibitions, film screenings

North

Photo: Dave Sowerby

Alternatively, if you feel like cooking, you could hit one of a number of independent shops in the north. Society Zero (162 Queen Margaret Dr), is a zero waste shop and social enterprise with a great selection of cupboard necessities. SeeWoo (29 Saracen St) hosts 60,000 square feet of ingredients from China, Japan, Vietnam, Thailand and across east and south-east Asia. For reference, 60,000 square feet is roughly the area of a full-size football pitch. It’s very big – the biggest Asian supermarket in the country.

The Loading Bay

Image Courtesy of Ocho

and events that’s set to reopen its doors shortly after a pandemic-enforced hiatus. Nearby, The Glue Factory (22 Farnell St for studios, 15 Burns St for events) is home to a host of artists’ studios, as well as serving as an occasional music venue, particularly during all-dayers and festivals such as this November’s Great Western.

Food and drink

Ocho

Glasgow City Guide

or cultural tourists on the Trainspotting circuit, the streets around Maryhill Road may be of some interest. Cafe D’Jaconelli (570 Maryhill Rd) with its jukebox and red leather booths was one of a number of the film’s Glasgow locations, while The BrewHaus, fka Crosslands (182 Queen Margaret Dr), was the scene of one particularly iconic Begbie bust-up. The Botany (795 Maryhill Rd) is ideal for a pint or cocktails and some hearty food, while during the day North Star Cafe and Comet Pieces (108 and 150 Queen Margaret Dr) provide much in the way of sandwiches and Big Tasty Rolls. Back down at the base of the canal you’ll find Ocho (8 Speirs Wharf), an all-day cafe sat within one of the area’s 1850s buildings.

Ask a local

Radio Buena Vida Suz O’Neill and David Fleming are the co-founders of community internet station Radio Buena Vida, currently celebrating its first year of broadcasting out of Govanhill record shop Some Great Reward

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Image courtesy of Radio Buena Vista

spontaneity and of course how much it rains…

What are you working on right now? Birthday party planning! It’s been a year since we first started broadcasting and we are throwing a party to celebrate across two venues in Glasgow on Saturday 27 Suz O’Neill and David Fleming November. It’s a two-part party starting in The Old What do you like How has the Glasgow music Hairdressers from 6 to 10pm about Govanhill? scene influenced you? and then moving across to The buzz. There is always In so many ways. We feel lucky Stereo from 11pm to late featsomething happening. to have lived in a city that has uring a selection of the local, There are loads of great small always welcomed local and national and international independent businesses in international talent across so guests who have been on the station over the past 12 months the area who really support many genres of music and including a B2B from DJ Fett one another and it feels like with a real DIY ethos. This a real hub for creativity. Burger and Telephones, ethos has inspired and Edinburgh-based DJ/selector influenced how we run the How important is community? station and how we proHiba, Glasgow-based DJ/ As a community radio station, it gramme the music and artists. Producer KTAB and Radio is vitally important for us. We Buena Vida residents Hot broadcast from the window of Towel, Cùrlach, Optimistic Do you have a favourite Some Great Reward, our local Soul and Farnaz. Tickets are Glasgow artwork? independent record cafe and available via the link in our bio We are really loving the them offering a home for the @radio_buena_vida. boldness and brightness of station means we can connect Molly Hankinson’s murals. with the local community every There’s one on the wall of We are also delighted to be day we are on air. About half of Shawlands Continental that’s working on a programme of the residents and guests on the part of the Shawlands Mural music with The Landing Hub, station live within about a one- Trail but they can be found a COP26 Fringe Festival, mile radius so although we can across the whole city. where the climate and social be listened to online around the Check out her work justice movements can meet world, we are really engaged the arts. @mollyhankinson.studio with our immediate local geographic community which is What makes Glasgow unique? bursting with great music. buenavida.co.uk The people and their

Finnieston & Partick

Stretching along the north side of the River Clyde from Victoria Park in the west, skirting what is traditionally considered the West End, before reaching up to Charing Cross, the Partick to Finnieston area covered here is essentially one long walk down Dumbarton Road, splitting into the early stages of Sauchiehall and Argyle streets and on into town. Along the way, you can treat yourself to some of the best food and drink to be found anywhere in the city, from affordable international cuisine to fine dining straight out of a show like Chef’s Table.

Glasgow City Guide

Partick is a little different from Finnieston. Less gentrified, Partick brushes just close enough to the West End that you can enjoy what that neighbourhood has to offer without being burdened with some of the epithets other Glaswegians may associate with it. Finnieston, formerly home to warehouses and docks in the era of the city’s shipbuilding boom, has since deindustrialisation slowly been built up to the point where now it’s one of the city’s swankiest late-night spots. If you’re having a big one, and want to go somewhere Nice and Fancy, you’ll find it there.

Finnieston & Partick

Getting there and getting away

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Five March

Glasgow. Their butternut squash and goats cheese regular is supreme. You’re not too drunk yet, so pick xtremely well linked to the city and up your fresh groceries from Locavore beyond, Partick is easily accessi(449 Dumbarton Rd), then grab banh ble via train on a line that will take you mi from, well, Banh Mi & Tea (401 on to Balloch and Loch Lomond in the Dumbarton Rd), a five-table cafe and west, or to Duke Street in the east, or the most underrated Vietnamese food even beyond on the slow line to in town. Smiddy Bar (309 Dumbarton Edinburgh. The subway also goes to Rd) is a chain pub that retains its Partick station, but depending on how charm, so pop in for a quick half, then your day pans out, you could start at a bite from Brawsome Bagels (292 Kelvinhall, or it’s just a skip from Dumbarton Rd) for the road. There’s Hillhead. Finnieston is a little trickier, deli meats for the week from Celino’s but the train goes to Exhibition Centre (235 Dumbarton Rd), then round the and then it’s a very short walk. corner for a flat white and a pastry The best thing you could do is walk. from Kaf (5 Hyndland St). An uninterrupted hour would be an The Sparkle Horse (16 Dowanhill extremely leisurely stroll from Partick St) is a cosy but trendy pub just off the all the way through Finnieston and into main road, or head to Dolphin Bar (157 town. You could do it in much less, or Dumbarton Rd) or The Three Judges you could turn it into perhaps the best (141 Dumbarton Rd) if the football is pub and restaurant crawl in town. on. Pot stickers from Dumpling Monkey (121 Dumbarton Rd) next, or for fresh pasta, Eighty Eight (88 Food and drink Dumbarton Rd) is across the road. f that was your game, and you Nip up Kelvin Way for a gyros from wanted to eat ten times your body MacTasso’s truck and then cross weight along the way, this is how you’d the bridge over the Kelvin and you’re do it. Start at The Thornwood (724 into Finnieston. Dumbarton Rd) and load up on their Old Dumbarton Road has Dukes selection of bottles and cans of craft Bar (no. 41) for a negroni and then beer and the best mac and cheese you along the street to Gloriosa (1321 can find. Next is Basta (561 Dumbarton Argyle St) for a continental-style fine Rd), the best Neapolitan pizza in dining sit-down or the other way for

Photo: Brian Sweeney

Image courtesy of MacTasso's MacTasso’s

Finnieston & Partick

Photo: Steven MB Jones

Gloriosa

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Things to do

ue to its proximity to the West End and town, this part of Glasgow cedes green space and key cultural locations to those areas. However, the

Riverside Museum (100 Pointhouse Rd) lines this side of the river. Originally located at the Kelvin Hall, this museum houses dozens of interactive exhibits showcasing the evolution of vehicular transport and Glasgow infrastructure, including a life size replica of a cobbled Glasgow street and a history of the city’s subway system. Berthed outside on the river next to the museum is the Tall Ship, Glenlee. It’s also the location of the Riverside Festival, an annual celebration of electronic and dance music. Music is well represented in Finnieston. The OVO Hydro (Exhibition Way, Stobcross Rd) arena sits next to the SEC Armadillo, the city’s three major auditoriums for live events. By the railway arches sits SWG3 (100 Eastvale Pl), warehouses converted into a live events, clubbing and exhibition space which also boasts rotating food pop-ups. The Clydeside Distillery (100 Stobcross Rd) offers tours of the whisky distilling process.

Finnieston & Partick

South Indian at Banana Leaf (76 Old Dumbarton Rd). If you are still somehow hungry, on Argyle Street you’re spoiled for choice: Rafa’s Mexican diner (1103 The Hidden Ln), Crabshakk (1114 Argyle St) for seafood, Glasgow institution Mother India (28 Westminster Terr), too many to mention. Pubs like the Kelvingrove Café (1161 Argyle St) and The Finnieston (1125 Argyle St) have you covered for more drinks, or fuel up on coffee from The Steamie (1024 Argyle St). Head up to Elderslie Street to find Five March (no. 140) for imaginative contemporary dining straight off the likes of Masterchef: The Professionals. If you need another drink, Chinaski’s (239 North St) is nicely placed at Charing Cross. Then go to bed!

Photo: Geo Chierchia Glasgow City Guide Walkway to the SECC 41

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Kingsley on Glasgow

Ask a local

What’s your favourite place in Glasgow to visit? There is only one answer to this! Firhill Stadium of course, the stadium of dreams, it’s my second home. Come visit – you’ll never look back.

Who or what are you most scared of? Pre-season. Kingsley always struggles running up hills You’re going for a night out in to get fit for the new season Glasgow, and can invite three but you don’t become the people. Who’s on the guestlist? world’s greatest mascot Firstly, I would invite the King without some sacrifice! Who was your hero growing up? of Spain, Gerry Britton There’s only one hero [current Partick Thistle chief What are your goals for the I looked up to, literally, when exec], as he likes a party and a rest of the season? I was young – the Sun. Coming sing-song so he would be I want to see even more young from California, he was always perfect to get the night going! fans at Firhill, taking advantage there for me growing up. Then, I’d invite the gaffer, Ian of our free under-16 season I hoped to shine as brightly as McCall, especially if we were tickets, so I can wave to them the Sun did when I grew up to go to the West End as he all and high-five them when it’s – and people say I have! claims to know everyone there safe to do so. I’d also like to I do miss him as he doesn’t and I’d love to put that to the take Amy MacDonald for a make it here as often as I’d test. I bet I know more! lemonade and run a few song like... but I like to think I bring Finally, I’d invite Brian ideas I have past her. I hear the sunshine to Firhill. Graham, goal machine for the she’s a big fan of Kingsley. Thistle men’s team and What is your favourite colour? current manager of the Thistle What’s your favourite thing about Glasgow? All Thistle fans would say two women’s team, to make sure Partick Thistle Football Club. colours – red and yellow. All the night finished well, as the The greatest football team in Thistle fans except me, of big man always finishes well! the world. And Jaconelli’s. course, as it will not surprise you to hear my favourite When did you last cry? Tell us a secret about yourself colour is yellow. Can you Kingsley last cried when that no one else knows... lockdown meant I couldn’t I was asked to participate in spend time with the fans. Strictly Come Dancing but But I was OK and made sure turned it down as it would we kept in touch. It’s always have meant missing Thistle good to share how you are games. Not happening! feeling and let the people Nice try, Shirley. around you know. It’s OK to cry. But it’s so good to be back.

Kingsley

imagine a red Kingsley? That would be scary! Thankfully I’m friendly and yellow.

Name your favourite band... It’s got to be Focus, the band behind the Firhill anthem Sylvia. That’s a Kingsleyapproved banger!

Find Kingsley on the touchlines at Partick Thistle home games at Firhill Stadium, 80 Firhill Rd ptfc.co.uk

Edinburgh City Guide

“It’s always good to share how you are feeling and let the people around you know. It’s OK to cry”

Ask a local

We couldn’t give a guide to Glasgow without mentioning football, and we couldn’t mention football without talking to the living legend that is Kingsley, the terrifying mascot of Partick Thistle

Ask a local

Kapil Seshasayee Glasgow-based musical polymath Kapil Seshasayee shares some of his favourite things about the city

How important is community where you live? How do you connect with the local community? There’s a lot of really pivotal community activity nucleated around another iconic venue, The Glad Cafe. I connected with the community not long after moving [to the Southside] by taking part in the Glad:Online project with local artist Greer Pester. We worked on a short documentary illuminating the efforts of community music workshops facilitated for non-able-bodied musicians and how

these workshops have moved online since the pandemic. Sitting in on those online sessions was so inspiring. How has the Glasgow music scene influenced you? I promoted in Glasgow heavily between 2014 and 2019 and I’ve been back at a good few local shows since restrictions have eased a bit – Glasgow music past and present is always something that I look to for inspiration. The importance of a good live show is really important to me and that came off the back of seeing Glasgow bands like Thin Privilege and wanting to achieve the sort of energy they had onstage – I liked them so much that I absorbed half of that band into my current creative team! Photo: Sean Patrick Campbell

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Where’s your favourite place in Glasgow? We’re spoilt for choice here so it’s a tough call, but I’ll go for The 13th Note. Excellent pub scran and an iconic venue downstairs. My favourite show that I’ve ever put on was in there: New York singer Shilpa Ray in 2017. The last time she’d played Scotland she was opening for Nick Cave in a much larger venue so this show was packed to the rafters and my now-wife was one of the supporting acts. A night that’s gonna stick with me for sure.

What band/musician from Glasgow are you loving right now? I’m really into Rev Magentic just now, which is the current project of Luke Sutherland who was in Long Fin Killie, one of my favourite Scottish bands He’s also on a few Mogwai classics. What makes Glasgow unique? For how small the city centre is, it’s an intersection of so many different kinds of people who can all coexist in a way that I think few other places can manage. I grew up here and yet I’m always discovering new things 30+ years in – I’m having fun exploring the Southside having never visited. What are you working on right now? I’m working on my second album Laal – a concept album about the influence of Bollywood cinema. Expect that out in early 2022.

Kapil Seshasayee will be performing as part of The Dalmar Chorus at Common Ground Fest, QMU, Sat 6 Nov, 4-10pm, free kapilseshasayee.bandcamp.com

Southside Glasgow’s Southside is a world unto itself: a sprawling, densely populated, vibrant part of the city, as well known for its history of community-minded activism as it is for its parks, restaurants and bars. This cosmopolitan corner of Glasgow is where the historic Rent Strikes of 1915 first began and, in 2001, where a local community occupied a swimming pool to prevent its closure (the Govanhill Baths is now a grassroots community organisation, due to reopen as a swimming pool in 2022).

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Including some of Scotland’s most diverse neighbourhoods, the Southside is also home to an incredible range of restaurants, cafes, shops and takeaway hole-in-the-walls. Cuisines from all over the world can be found in Govanhill’s packed, bustling streets, where 40% of local residents are from ethnic minorities and 32 languages are spoken within a span of just 13 tenement blocks. For a slightly quieter vibe, visitors can head to neighbouring districts Mount Florida, Strathbungo and Pollokshields – here you’ll find quiet pubs and cosy cafes, dotted along widely spaced, residential streets that feature some of Glasgow’s most beautiful architecture.

he Southside is a great place to get lost in, and foodies could easily spend an entire day just wandering around sampling the local delicacies. In Govanhill, take a walk up Allison Street and pop into the Glasgow Sweet Centre (202 Allison St) for some of the best samosas in town, plus something sweet for dessert (the Pistachio Burfi is recommended). Once you hit main strip, Victoria Road, there’s a fantastic array of eateries to choose from: for mouth-wateringly delicious tacos on the go, check out Sacred Tum Tacos (no. 522) and for Italian head to Errol's (no. 379), a tiny, homely joint serving pizzas packed full of flavour. Head up the road and you’ll find even more shoebox-sized gems nestled together at the tip of Allison Street. The veggie rolls at Vietnamese BYOB place Little Hoi An (26 Allison St) are out-of-this-world, but make sure to ring ahead if you want to dine in – it’s extremely hard to get a table. Right next door, Kurdish Street Food (12-14 Allison St) sells the best kebabs in the city, and you can walk away full for less than a fiver. Turn the corner onto Pollokshaws Road and you’ll find some roomier dine-in restaurants, such as the excellent Caribbean bar and canteen Photo: Raymond

Sacred Tum Tacos

The Rum Shack (no. 657-659), Greek-Cypriot mezze place Halloumi (no. 697) and family-run deli serving traditional Punjabi food, Ranjit’s Kitchen (no. 607). In Pollokshields, Indian restaurant New Anand (76 Nithsdale Rd) is a neighbourhood favourite, while the elegant Niven’s (72 Nithsdale Rd), with its fresh Scottish dishes and refined, gorgeous decor, is perfect for a fancy night out. In Shawlands, try Julie’s Kopatiam (1109 Pollokshaws Rd) for delicious Malaysian street food, Cafe Strange Brew (1082 Pollokshaws Rd) is a local favourite for coffee and brunch and Hooked (1027 Cathcart Rd) in Mount Florida is great for fish and chips. If you like your lunch served with a side of history, check out the Battlefield Rest (55 Battlefield Rd). This quaint and cosy continental bistro has been around since 1914, when it was used as a resting and courting place for tram travellers.

Glasgow City Guide

Little Hoi An

Southside

Photo: Laura Stuart

Food

Southside

Photo: Leighanne Evelyn Wild Gorse Pottery

Drinks

he Southside is full of places to drink, from the ‘old man pub’ variety to a bunch of trendier bars. The Allison Arms (720 Pollokshaws Rd) is a lively, permanently crowded establishment that seems to cater to all crowds. Right next door, separated only by Shaheds Takeaway (the perfect stop-off for post- or mid-boozing food by the way), is the legendary Heraghty’s (708 Pollokshaws Rd), one of the city’s oldest pubs. Fancy a change of scene? Just whip across the road and head into The Rum Shack, where you can choose from a list of delectable cocktails or over 100 different types of rum. There’s also the achingly hip Koelschip Yard down the street (686-688 Pollokshaws Rd), serving a pretty impressive selection of craft beer. If you’re feeling adventurous, you could always head further afield to Glaswegian institution Star

Photo Courtesy: Locavore

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Bar (537-539 Eglinton St) for karaoke and a £3 three-course meal on Sundays, or over to Minnesota Fats (1055 Cathcart Rd) for a pint over a game of American-style snooker. If it’s caffeine you’re after in the Southside, you’ll be spoiled for choice. Go-tos for serious coffee fans include Short Long Black (501 Victoria Rd) and Grain and Grind (742 Pollokshaws Rd). After opening during the pandemic, the Transylvania Coffee Shop (462 Victoria Rd) has quickly become a neighbourhood favourite. Owned by a local couple from Transylvania who lost their jobs at hotels shortly before the first lockdown, it’s a cheery bistro-esque place bursting with Romanian and Hungarian snacks, fresh produce, flowers, cakes, baked goods and takeaway hot drinks. Its friendly atmosphere is also unparalleled – the ‘come on in’ vibe and extensive, seasonal decorations (whether for Halloween, Pride or Christmas) will cheer you up no matter what mood you’re in. Milk (452 Victoria Rd) is a social enterprise and community-minded cafe, and a particularly lovely place to linger over a coffee with a book or a friend. And tucked away on a side street nearby is a true Southside hidden gem. The Bee’s Knees Cafe (83 Bowman St) is a snug autumnal treasure trove, complete with vintage

Locavore

Southside

Photo: Taia Van Fleet

mismatched furniture, quirky antique objects, warm mellow lighting and even, according to owner Anna, a couple of friendly ghosts (they like to hang out in the back room, along with the Victorian oil paintings). Perhaps more importantly, it also sells a range of melt-in-the-mouth vegan and gluten-free cakes, along with vegan whipped cream.

Indie shops and things to do

Pollok Park

Go outdoors

ueens Park, with its urban proximity, is a great place to relax with pals, sprawl out on the grass with a drink, take in the view from the flagpole or perhaps enjoy some spontaneous entertainment at the Queens Park Arena. This park truly is the epicentre of the Southside, but there are other green spaces to check out too, each with something distinctive to offer. The huge Linn Park, stretching across four Southside suburbs, is a wilder affair, full of craggy woodland walks, lush waterfalls and several play areas for families. Pollok Park (2060 Pollokshaws Rd) is the only country park in Glasgow and well worth a visit for its gorgeous landscapes, scenic trails and art collections housed in Pollok House and the Burrell Collection, scheduled to reopen in early 2022 after a lengthy refurb. If you’re lucky, you might also get to say hello to a Highland cow or two.

Glasgow City Guide

or an arts and culture fix head to the Tramway (25 Albert Dr), a renowned international arts venue offering a year-round programme of dance, live art, drama, festivals and free exhibitions. Out back you’ll also find The Hidden Gardens, a peaceful oasis in the bustling Southside noise. For records, check out Some Great Reward (520 Victoria Rd) and for one-of-a-kind handcrafted objects head to Wild Gorse Pottery (684 Pollokshaws Rd). Market magpies should visit Park Lane Market (974 Pollokshaws Rd), open on the first and last Sunday of every month, and the Big Zero Waste Market (The Deep End, 21 Nithsdale St), open on the first Saturday of every month. A number of independent bookshops have recently sprung up in the area – there’s Burning House Books (446 Cathcart Rd) with its sleek black shopfront and focus on counterculture and queer history, the lovely, cosy Outwith Books (14 Albert Rd) which also offers a beautiful desk-space area for writers, and the very new and exciting Mount Florida Books (1069 Cathcart Rd). But if you could only visit one Southside bookseller, we’d have to recommend Category Is (34 Allison St). This fiercely independent, DIY outlet offers queer community events as well as books, comics, zines and magazines, and is the only bookshop solely dedicated to LGBTQ+ literature and authors in Scotland.

Ask a local

Halina Rifai Southside resident Halina Rifai produces podcasts including Podcart and A Sonic Hug, and works with organisations like Dardishi and We Are Here Scotland to help amplify BPoC creative voices in Scotland and beyond

What do you like about the Southside of Glasgow? I’ve lived here for over 17 years now and it feels very much like a small town within a city. There have been numerous changes including half of the bastarding West End of Glasgow and some of London moving here but all in all it’s still a great place. I love the number of parks here, I love the diversity moving from one area to another, I love the local shops and I love that there are businesses that are still here from when I first arrived.

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In other areas, the business community really seem to come together. Businesses

Do you have a favourite Glasgow artwork? The mural of Scott Hutchison by Alex Coyle on Allison Street. It’s a poignant reminder of a great man.

What makes Glasgow special? Where’s your favourite place I think as polarising as in Glasgow? opinions can be and how divided things can become I think it’s probably always with certain aspects of society going to be Queen’s Park. in general here, when the shit I have struggled with panic hits the fan and people need attacks and really bad anxiety for years and I was agoraphobic to come together, they do. for a while. Part of my recovery I have witnessed it on numerous occasions and it’s a has been walking and it’s really beautiful thing. always been Queen’s Park that has been the place for a lot of it. Favourite music from Glasgow of all time? I am going to have to go with Mogwai. Buying Young Team in 1997 was a bit of a gamechanger and I have loved the band ever since. What band / musician from Glasgow are you loving right now? Uninvited are a bit exciting! Very much part of the revived indie rock scene in Glasgow but their vocal harmonies are pristine, and they have this curious Americana-pop vibe in their music.

Photo Courtesy of Halina Rifai

How important is community there? How do you connect with the local community? There is a real sense of community here and there are so many incredible people doing stuff for the greater good in different hidden pockets as well. I was volunteering with my local foodbank pre-pandemic and that really made me feel like a stronger part of the community. I think it’s really important to invest in local businesses, shop local from our local greengrocers Zucchini to our butcher W. Cranston and more.

like The Glad Cafe, organisations like Govanhill Baths, South Seeds, Milk Cafe, Zia-ul-Quran Mosque and many more do incredible work in the community and provide a lot of opportunities, support and love.

Gorbals, Kinning Park, Cessnock & Govan

This part of Glasgow has seen big changes in the past 20 years. In the minds of many Scottish people The Gorbals is still a by-word for the type of deprivation that the city of Glasgow was once famous for. To residents of even just a few decades ago, the Gorbals of today would be unrecognisable with its penthouse apartments, 24-hour gyms and drive-thru coffee shops.

Glasgow City Guide

Government investment of close to £1 billion has transformed the southern Clyde waterfront area into a slick media hub. When the BBC opened its Scottish headquarters on the south bank of the river in 2007, it did not take long for big-money companies to line up alongside it. The Quayside today plays host to casinos, cinemas, restaurants and high-rise luxury chain hotels. Behind the shininess of the riverfront, however, these are still working-class parts of town. Immigrant communities from across Europe and the Middle East have settled here, and continue to do so. The shops, cafes, barbers, bars and restaurants reflect that multiculturalism. In many ways, this area of town paints a distinct picture of modern Glasgow. A heartening mix of the city’s industrial past and its ambitious future.

South of the River

Go outdoors

here are not many green spaces in the area. It is, after all, the city’s industrial heartland. A walk or bike ride along the river, however, will offer a whistle-stop tour of some of Glasgow’s most iconic buildings and structures, from Glasgow Science Centre and Govan Parish Church on the southern banks, to Glasgow University, the Finnieston Crane and the SEC across the water (as well as the squinty bridge across it). For a spooky autumnal walk, consider ducking in under the large stone archway of the Gorbals Southern Necropolis (Caledonia Rd). A nod to the area’s grim history, this graveyard (founded in 1840) is the final resting place for over 250,000 Gorbals inhabitants. It is worth seeking out the famous White Lady monument. Just be sure not to walk around her ghostly statue three times or – legend has it – she will turn your body to stone. Deeper south is Bellahouston Park – a vast and beautiful city park with terrific spots for running, cycling and picnics. There is even a dry ski slope. Within the park sits the unique House for an Art Lover, built in the 1990s based on 1901 notes left behind by Glasgow’s most prominent architect, Charles Rennie Mackintosh. The large white mansion hosts exhibitions, weddings and is in some ways a

THE SKINNY

Image Courtesy of The Big Feed

The Big Feed

curiously compromised example of the British Art Nouveau style – Mackintosh’s notes, for example, made no mention of a visitor centre or a cafe. If you are looking for a more authentic Mackintosh fix this side of the river, you could do a lot worse than strolling past the imposing Scotland Street School (225 Scotland St), opposite Shields Road Underground station. The sandstone Victorian school building is a wonderful example of Mackintosh’s style. It is, at the time of writing, closed for a large-scale refurbishment, which will see it returned to its original purpose next year: educating young minds.

Food and drink

fun foodie highlight is Govan’s The Big Feed (249-325 Govan Rd). This weekly street food festival takes place in a large disused warehouse on Govan Road, when a changing rotation of food trucks from across the country park up and get cooking. With a fully-stocked bar, live music, arcade games and so much good food to try – it is easy to spend hours here. There is no better Lebanese food on offer in the city than the heaving plates of mezze available at the ever-busy Beirut Star (450 Paisley Rd W) in Cessnock. Unassuming (and underpriced, given the quality of the food). Similarly high quality, low price food can be found near the Glasgow Mosque in the Gorbals in the form of highly rated Aghan food at Namak Mandi (17-23 Bridge St), Middle Eastern cuisine in Palmtree Kitchen and sweets from Turkey in Istanbul Cakes and Baklawas (63 Bridge St). Nearby, Babylon Supermarket (3-5 Commerce St) is a large supermarket well stocked with Middle Eastern and Mediterranean ingredients and even an in-house bakery. Aladdin’s (45 Commerce St) nearby is similarly good for hard-to-find ingredients.

South of the River

Photo: Fredrika Carlsson Glasgow Science Centre

year-round, commited to making learning fun in futuristic architectural surrounds. During COP26, it will host The Green Zone, where the public, civil society, Indigenous Peoples, youth groups, charities, academics, artists and businesses can have their voices heard through an extensive programme of events. If you are in the area and feeling brave, you might want to pay a visit to Ibrox Stadium (150 Edmiston Dr). One of the oldest football stadiums in Europe (built in 1874), it is home to Glasgow Rangers, the blue half of the city’s world famous football rivalry with the East End’s Glasgow Celtic. The area is bookended by the exquisite Govan Old Parish Church (866 Govan Rd). Free to the public, the site has been home to a church since the 6th century and houses the famous Govan stones. These Norse carved stones date back to 870 AD, when the Vikings raided the Clyde region and destroyed nearby Dumbarton. Their Things to do presence in the churchyard serves as lasgow Science Centre (50 Pacific evidence that the Vikings settled, Quay) is an immersive experience at least in part, in Govan.

Glasgow City Guide

The Good Coffee Cartel (12 Cornwall St) in Cessnock offer an on-site coffee roastery and cafe with a sustainable focus. In the Gorbals, vegan joint Zilch Bakery & Deli (124 Norfolk St) serve up a frankly astounding range of plant-based food, from NY cheesecake to charcuterie. When it comes to drinking establishments, this area of town does a roaring trade in good old-fashioned pubs. Home to two of the city’s very best: The Laurieston (58 Bridge St) and The Old Toll Bar (1 Paisley Rd W). The Gorbals’ Laurieston is a Glasgow city icon, appearing in pop-art city prints, photography exhibitions and even a Fratellis music video. Old Toll Bar in Kinning Park dates back to the 1800s but was refurbished and redefined in 2017. The bones of the place remain the same: curved dark wood bar, reasonably priced draft beer, unpretentious crowd.

Ask a local

Govan Project Space Alex Allan, founder of Govan Project Space, on why an uninsulated warehouse near former dry docks is the perfect space for an arts venue

What is Govan Project Space? We want to be a big space for showing ambitious work that sits somewhere between education and institution. We can offer a sort of semi institutional scale space, fabrication facilities. So we’re trying to encourage people to come to us with ideas for making new ambitious work which may not have had the chance before. We got our first Creative Scotland funding just as the pandemic hit – our programme for 2020 was planned. Obviously COVID kind of scuppered things but we did manage to put on three shows during 2020, including Jacqueline Donachie, a major undertaking for us, and Tamara MacArthur. I’m really glad we did – there were moments where both the artists and ourselves were like, “Ah, should we be doing this? And can we do this safely?” But it seemed to have a good effect on people at the shows. People were really just openly thankful

to us for putting something on – it’s so nice to actually get out and see something in real life. It was quite heartwarming and sort of humbling to hear.

are looking to develop further in the future.

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Photo: Matthew Barnes

I’ve been fortunate enough to work on a number of projects that increase public engageOur GI2021 project with ment really well. I think a lot of Jacqueline Donachie ended up the time, it can almost be lasting about two years, presented as a kind of obstacle including a temporary public exercise in projects. So it’s nice artwork at Govan Graving to see and work with people Docks, that was critical of who are championing that type Glasgow’s ageing infrastructure of work, and see the positive and the restrictions some effect it has on kids. spaces pose to people with mobility issues. We worked What makes Govan special? with Sculpture Placement I think it’s an amazing place. Group in the development of a It’s just so real, like, it’s still pilot programme which meant real – there’s very little that the sculpture had a gentrification happening. And guaranteed life after the show it’s just a really nice place to was finished. be. Everyone’s really sound, there’s very little trouble. How connected are you with There’s so much stuff to see, the local community? just like mad juxtapositions of We are lucky enough to be in a buildings and organisations. building with lots of organisations who do amazing work in The area that we’re in, it’s not the community, so access to really known for its sort of crethat and being able to exchange ative endeavours. But it always help and ideas is something we felt like we moved into that space; it was a big, sort of cavernous empty warehouse, and it always felt we were kind of on the ground floor on something bigger in the area. I think it’s definitely starting to take shape.

Govan Project Space, 249 Govan Rd Govan Graving Docks, Jaqueline Donachie. Public work commissioned by Govan Project Space, Glasgow International 2021

govanprojectspace.co.uk

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Photo: Steve Douglas

Millport Harbour

Photo: Robert Keane

Daytripping Loch Lomond

Further Afield Once you’ve explored the centre, venture outside the city limits to find the islands, castles and cities of Scotland within easy reach. Words: Laurie Presswood

fear – many of the jewels of the Clyde can be reached by train without difficulty. Dumbarton Castle sits on the North bank of the Clyde estuary, nestled in the dramatic volcanic basalt of Dumbarton Rock, or travel further up the coast to visit Helensburgh and the Charles Rennie MackIntoshdesigned Hill House mansion. On the other side of the river you can admire Helensburgh and the adjacent Clyde Sea Lochs from afar – get food on Kempock Street in Gourock and revel in the beauty of the seaside. The intrepid explorer wearing sufficient under-layers should consider catching a ferry out to one of the Clyde Isles. From Largs you can

Glasgow City Guide

aytrips from Glasgow are not just a fun way for tourists to pass the time, but a notable feature of Glasgow’s past, from trips doon the watter for the Glasgow Fair weekend, to jollies all the way down to Portpatrick and the beaches of Ayrshire. For those lucky enough to be travelling with a car, the west coast is truly your oyster – head for the hills to visit Loch Lomond (of song fame) and the Trossachs National Park. On Loch Katrine you can enjoy a winter wonderland cruise, one of a select few of the west coast’s scenic ferry rides available during the winter months. If you’re confined to public transport on the other hand then never

Daytripping THE SKINNY

Photo: Steve Gilruth

V&A Dundee

Photo: Neostalgic

head out to Cumbrae, which you may hear called Millport after the island’s sole town. Hiring bikes (for one, two, or seven passengers) is a Millport rite of passage, but The Skinny cannot vouch for its enjoyability during the winter months. Bute (accessible via Wemyss Bay) plays host to Mount Stuart, a striking neo-gothic mansion built in the late 19th century, while you can catch the ferry to Arran from Ardrossan to enjoy the island that some call “Scotland in miniature”. There’s plenty to do in Ayrshire besides gawk at the island of Ailsa Craig and fantasise that it’s a giant Tunnock’s Tea Cake. You’re spoilt for choice for museums dedicated to Scotland’s Bard – in Alloway alone you can find the Robert Burns Birthplace Museum, Burns Cottage and Burns Monument. Culzean Castle is closed now for winter, but a walk around the grounds will prove even more breathtaking than anything that can be found inside. If you’re desperate to see the beautiful interiors and furnishings of a stately home, however, Dumfries House near Cumnock can certainly scratch that itch. In the centre of Scotland lies Stirling, one of Scotland’s ancient capitals. Stirling is just a half-hour train journey from Glasgow, and is built around what we will, perhaps controversially, name ‘Scotland’s Best Castle’. Take the tour, and be invited to sit on a reconstruction of the King’s throne, or stand on the battlements and look out over miles of historic

Stirling Castle

battlefields as the wind whips through your hair and you pretend to be in an episode of Outlander. Scotland’s modern-day capital, Edinburgh, is within easy striking distance of Glasgow – a mere 50 minutes by train from Queen Street Station. It’s full of historic hills and mounds to climb, and beautiful views to reward you when you do, although we would not recommend attempting Arthur’s Seat if it’s icy out. Investigate the galleries and museums scattered across the centre, or mosey into the various and distinct neighbourhoods to shop and appreciate the architecture (Dean Village is relatively central, and generally less saturated with tourists than spots like the castle). For a more in-depth guide around the capital, check out The Skinny Guide to Edinburgh on issuu.com/theskinny If you’re willing to travel just a little further (an hour and a half on the train), and would like to investigate one of Scotland’s smaller cities, head for Dundee. Upon walking out of the station you’ll immediately be struck by Scotland’s first design museum – the V&A Dundee sits centrally among such other features of the city’s waterfront as the RRS Discovery, Jannettas Gelateria and the freshly installed Tay Whale sculpture. For a proper expedition into the city, you can grab some fish and chips and head for the top of the Law (fish and chips optional), or head down the Perth Road stopping at every pub, shop and gallery along the way.

Musical History

Glasgow’s Miles Better We take a look at the rich musical history of Glasgow, which was declared a UNESCO City of Music in 2008, by exploring its multitude of venues and the bands who were formed here. Words: Tony Inglis

Image Courtesy of The Hug and Pint The Hug and Pint

hose of The Skinny’s readers based in Glasgow may have been relieved to see that, in the magazine’s Edinburgh City Guide from August, Edinburgh was described as

being ‘overshadowed’ by Glasgow’s music scene, that it was ‘hard to argue a case’ for east over west. And while the piece goes on to list the myriad things the capital does

However, petty city rivalry aside, it’s difficult to question Glasgow’s musical credentials. The city has been entertaining music lovers for centuries. It's home to The Britannia Panopticon Music Hall at Trongate, the world’s oldest surviving music hall, hall, which opened in 1857. Jump forward over 150 years, and Glasgow is a UNESCO City of Music, achieving that honour in 2008. It boasts approaching 200 available venues and has birthed dozens of popular – some seminal, some underappreciated – bands and artists. Music runs through the blood of Glasgow, through its streets and architecture, where tenement flats vibrate with the music conceived in and around them.

Glasgow City Guide

have to offer, it surely warms the heart of every Glaswegian to hear (officially!) that it doesn’t quite match the country’s biggest city – musically speaking at least.

Musical History THE SKINNY 60

When LCD Soundsystem came to play in 2017 after a long layoff, James Murphy recounted onstage that it was the Barrowland Ballroom – affectionately known as the Barras – with its famously bouncy floor, where they now stood playing, that they specifically wanted to return to. It’s an anecdote that sums up the atmosphere around live music in the city – often a band will tell you they’re playing to the best crowd in the best room in the world at a show, but in Glasgow they actually mean it. Open since the 1930s down the Gallowgate, the Barras is just one of a number of iconic places bands pull up to play, from the mammoth big hitters like the Glasgow Royal Concert Hall in the City Centre and the OVO Hydro on the Clydeside to tiny basements in pubs like The Hug and Pint on Great Western Road and Nice N Sleazy on Sauchiehall Street.

individuals. Many double as arts spaces of all stripes, and that’s the reason so many go on to be the origin of bands that spring up here. Then there are places like King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut, located on St Vincent Street, the lore around which makes it hard to discern what stories are apocryphal and which are true. It is true that countless bands who went on to mainstream success passed through its doors. It was famously where (and stop us if you’ve heard this one before) Alan McGee signed Oasis in 1993. That’s not to mention those we’ve lost – a dilapidated shell is all that remains of the old ABC on Sauchiehall Street, a sad reminder of the last Glasgow School of Art fire in 2018, even if it is survived by its sister venue, the O2 Academy on Eglinton Street.

Nowadays, these world class stages cohere into multi-venue festivals like Stag & Dagger and The Great Western (both on 13 Nov), offering a chance at In these smaller fronts the festival experience but – Stereo and Broadcast in situated in purpose-built areas the city centre, or Mono in Merchant City, or SWG3 under where music lives and breathes the arches by the river, or The every night rather than for one Glad Cafe in the Southside, or weekend in the calendar year. the converted church of Òran That goes for non-indie music celebrations too, like Celtic Mór in the West End, or the Connections’ array of trad, folk, CCA on Sauchiehall Street, roots and global music (20 Jan or St Luke’s, a hop, skip and 2022-6 Feb 2022). There are jump from the Barras – is the likes of TRNSMT (8-10 Jul where Glasgow’s music 2022), bringing a mixed line-up community really feels like of chart toppers and local a teeming cultural hub of familiar faces and like-minded up-and-comers, at Glasgow

Green, or the electronic Riverside for those looking to go all in. Perhaps there could be even more venues, with live music of the highest calibre sometimes spilling out on the streets. Your train terminates at Glasgow Central in April 1976? You might catch Neil Young performing to perhaps his smallest ever crowd at the station’s Gordon Street entrance a few hours before a show with Crazy Horse at the old Apollo on Renfield Street. In May 1985, The Clash busked across town, finally ending up on Old Dumbarton Road outside Dukes Bar. You might not have known who he would become, but you may have spotted a very young pre-music Gil Scott-Heron hold his dad’s hand on the city’s streets while Gil Heron (Snr) was playing for Celtic in the 50s. Nirvana played their only ever Glasgow show at the University of Glasgow’s Queen Margaret Union as their career was skyrocketing after the release of Nevermind in late 1991. Kurt Cobain famously called The Vaselines – just one of a bumper crop of Glasgowbirthed music projects – his favourite band in the world. Where to even begin with how potent this city of no more than 600,000 people has been in producing great acts. Belle and Sebastian, Primal Scream, Camera Obscura, The Blue Nile, Franz Ferdinand,

Musical History

Photo: Cameron Brisbane

LCD Soundsystem at the Barrowlands

Musical History THE SKINNY

Photo: Paul Storr

CHVRCHES – the list could go on. Most wonderful is seeing formative experiences repeatedly germinate in the same locations. Take Edwyn Collins and Orange Juice coming together in the now gone Vic Bar at the School of Art, and then later Life Without Buildings, and later still Still House Plants, developing within the art student community. Even greater still is the way individuals from the city’s best bands stay connected with the wider music scene: Stephen McRobbie of The Pastels opening Monorail (read our Q&A with McRobbie on p. 19), just one of a number of excellent Glasgow record stores, or bands like The Delgados and Mogwai establishing labels Chemikal Underground and Rock Action respectively in the city and putting out important records from the likes of Arab Strap and The Twilight Sad. Techno duo Slam were there to capture the early days of Daft Punk, signing them to their Soma label and putting out some of their first recordings. That legacy lives on in the likes of independent imprints like Last Night From Glasgow. There are bands from just outside the city limits – The Jesus and Mary Chain (East Kilbride) and Teenage Fanclub (Bellshill) for example – who came up thanks to Glasgow’s burgeoning and fruitful scene. Electronic acts like SOPHIE, Hudson Mohawke and Rustie made their name

CHVRCHES at TRNSMT

here and went on to have genre-defying influence across music full stop. (Cocteau Twins are from Grangemouth, which is probably a little too close to Edinburgh for Glaswegians to claim).

perhaps the city can also learn from it. It would be hard to say that, since it was awarded the title, Glasgow has been a pristine example of accessibility, support or representation. When the city’s flagship music festival can be a success The criteria that make up with ticket sales and industry Glasgow’s previously menattention, but not have tioned City of Music status forward-thinking booking or pinpoint seven main indicators a diverse, balanced line-up, of what such a label should can we say we have truly aim to represent: iconic, hit those markers? Use the knowledgeable, accessible, rich history and tools at our supportive, representative, disposal and we might just be promotional, unique. While able to wear the City of Music celebrating that status, badge with real pride.

Gallery Guide

Image: courtesy of The Modern Institute

Artists Make Glasgow Words: Adam Benmakhlouf The Modern Institute

Glasgow City Guide

Glasgow has a lot of artists who make the city one of the most culturally vibrant around. It’s literally its best quality. Here we’re running through the art galleries around the city, and the different kinds of events and shows happening in them

Gallery Guide THE SKINNY

Photo: Isobel Lutz-Smith, courtesy the artist and The Common Guild Glasgow

iving in Glasgow can be a tough sell. There aren’t a lot of jobs, people don’t really date and it rains basically all the time. Hands down the best thing about Glasgow is its higher than average artist population, so new collectives, pop-up spaces and artist-run initiatives come around more frequently than elsewhere. Commercial interests don’t feature on the cultural Installation view, Iconoclasm, 2021, London Road, Glasgow, Sam Durant cityscape, so all the spaces mentioned below are publicly Guild, installed in a former and/or charitably funded, with sharings of works by their primary school on 5 Florence the exception of the final two. peers – there are usually Street. The Common Guild have markedly different programfor 15 years brought some of The artist-run model has ming identities and strands in the most critically-acclaimed long been the momentum each of the spaces at any one international artists to make of Glasgow’s art scene. time. For example, Market new projects, working in a It just about works and is the spreads its programming into engine behind Transmission media that can easily circulate combination of off-site events, as well as gallery exhibitions. Gallery (28 King St), Good outside of the gallery space Press (32 St. Andrews St) during lockdown, e.g. print The Hunterian is currently the and SaltSpace (270 High St) media, sound and radio. only academically-supported in the centre, Market Gallery Also picking up exclusively on contemporary art gallery in the (334 Duke St), to the east, as the possibilities of audio and well as 16 Nicholson Street soundwork, Listen Gallery (204 city. Its contemporary strand just over the river from the City Hunter St) is among the newest is still relatively new, but has emerged well-developed, Centre. Nevertheless, while in spaces in Glasgow, ‘created in the broadest terms similar hope to rebalance the senses.’ grounded in the research already taking place in the – run by emerging and early Next door to Transmission, History of Art department into career artists, who organise there’s the Trongate 103 (103 avant-garde and contemporary Trongate) art gallery complex, art practice. with Street Level Photography and Glasgow Print Studio, There are the bigger municipal each with their own medigalleries spread around the um-specific programming of city, too. In the City Centre it’s contemporary art. Upstairs, the Gallery of Modern Art there’s Project Ability, a (111 Queen St), which opened visual arts charity and in 1996 and has expressly gallery supporting people aligned its collections towards with learning disabilities and politically-oriented artworks mental ill-health to create art. and artists confronting issues of social justice. Big names Just over the river from the (in terms of international City Centre, not far from 16 artspeak) will be included in Nicholson St, there is the shows here, like a group show current site of The Common organised a couple of years

“The artistrun model has long been the momentum of Glasgow’s art scene. It just about works”

Slowly working further north in the city, there’s the Centre for Contemporary Arts (350 Sauchiehall St), formerly the Third Eye Centre set up in 1975. As an art and performance venue, it shows an impressive range of practice from theatre to experimental music, as well as contemporary art. Its Open Source policy means the spaces can be made available to those who need or want to use them, including a wellequipped publication studio, club space and theatre.

While there’s still a vibrant scene, the last two years have markedly slowed the usual ecosystem of new projects, personalities and spaces cropping up every Friday night, when most of the openings happen. Hopefully this article will soon need updated to namecheck a whole new host of new living room-cum-gallery spaces and empty-shopfronts-turned-galleries, once the newest artists, graduates and arrivals to the city adjust to the new IRL possibilities. FAO all relevant arts administrators, landlords and funders: without them, Glasgow’s art scene crumbles.

Weans World, 2019, 16N, group show

Glasgow City Guide

There are some similarities between David Dale Gallery & Studios (161 Broad St) in the

With a negligible level of art buying actually happening here, the best practitioners have long committed to making some kind of genuinely valuable contribution to discourse/society/life over competition or a more vague sense of status. So it’s only appropriate to leave until last the small number of commercial galleries. These include

The Modern Institute (14-20 Osborne St), whose roster includes a lot of the ‘Glasgow Miracle’ era names like Jim Lambie and Martin Boyce, and Kendall Koppe (36-38 Coburg St), who represent big names of the generation that followed, including Charlotte Prodger and Corin Sworn. Their programmes come as close to ‘art for art’s sake’ as the city’s conversational criticality allows.

Photo: Mook Attanath courtesy of Design Weans

In the Southside, Tramway (25 Albert Dr) – along with the Gallery of Modern Art – is the other council-run space for contemporary art in Glasgow, and will show artists from the pages of Frieze and Art Forum in the vast surrounds of a former tram depot. Deeper into the Southside, in distinction to the epic scale of the Tramway mainspace, find also Kiosk Gallery (25 Prince Edward St), 20 Albert Road and Mount Florida Gallery/ Studios (37 Clincart Rd). Each of these is more occasionally open, shared between three curatorial projects (like 20 Albert Road) or also housing artist studio holders, as in Mount Florida. Each in its own way is harder to classify, and more often rooted in hosting Glasgow-based artists.

East End and Tramway, each institution exhibiting artists more often from outside Glasgow, who have recently achieved a substantial level of recognition or visibility. Worth noting that for some reason, as recently pointed out by local artist Alaya Ang, David Dale’s management persist in keeping the gallery’s name as a monument to an 18th century merchant who profited from slavery. In the furthest eastern reaches of the city, there is the brand new French Street (103-109 French Street), with studios and a gallery space. It’s more of a sporadic programme with the space being used by different organisers and freelance programmers.

Gallery Guide

ago around an acquisition of work from internationally renowned contemporary artist Hito Steyerl.

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Photo: Walnut Wasp David Livingstone Birthplace

David Livingstone Birthplace Museum Think you know all there is to know about the 19th-century adventurer Dr David Livingstone? The David Livingstone Birthplace Museum hopes to paint a truer picture of the explorer that’s much more nuanced than the prevailing Victorian-era myths Interview: Jamie Dunn

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tart compiling a list of the greatest Scots in history and David Livingstone is likely to be near the top. But is the prevailing image of the good doctor – that of a daring Victorian-era explorer – an accurate one? If you’re slightly fuzzy on Livingstone’s achievements during his epic journeys across Sub-

Saharan Africa in the mid19th century you’re not alone. Since his death in 1873, many of the exuberant biographies written about Livingstone have focused on the romantic image of him as a lone pioneer, but have failed to put his life and work in a broader context, particularly as an abolitionist.

The ambition of the David Livingstone Birthplace Museum is to paint a fuller, more nuanced picture. “Visitors will come away with a new understanding of Livingstone’s achievements, his failures, and the opportunity that his story holds to encourage a deeper understanding of marginalised histories and

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Photo: Kat Gollock David Livingstone Birthplace expedition room

story to include the men and women who helped make his expeditions possible. As well as looking at Livingstone’s life, the museum is also concerned with how his work in Africa is still felt today. This impact is on display in the museum’s Legacy Room. Here, a series of talking-head interviews filmed in collaboration with the Scotland Malawi Partnership, with individuals from many of the countries that Livingstone visited, including Zambia, Zimbabwe and Malawi, discuss the impact the Scot continues to have in the Sub-Sahara.

Even if you think you learned all about Livingstone at school, the David Livingstone Birthplace Museum offers a rich – and crucially honest – look at the life and legacy of one of Scotland’s most well-known sons.

For more information, head to david-livingstone-birthplace.org Due to further installations, David Livingstone Birthplace is closed to the public 8-12 Nov. The museum is still allowing pre-booked groups to visit during those dates. To book your group, please email info@dltrust.uk Photo: Walnut Wasp Continent of Africa Wall

Glasgow City Guide

Scotland’s role in slavery and colonisation,” promises Natalie Milor, the museum’s curator. Situated in Livingstone’s childhood home in Blantyre, the David Livingstone Birthplace Museum takes visitors on an interactive tour of Livingstone’s life, from his humble beginnings in this former mill town to the three decades he spent travelling central and southern Africa. Recontextualised for a 21st-century audience, the museum aims to humanise Livingstone. And crucially, the exhibition pays tribute to many of Livingstone’s collaborators, like Abdullah Susi, who was from today’s Mozambique, and James Chuma, from today’s Malawi – both vital crew members on Livingstone’s second Zambezi expedition (1858-1864) and his later travels. The tension between the myths of Livingstone as a lone explorer and the reality of him as a humanist who collaborated with local people during his journeys is deeply evoked in the museum. The newly restored Pilkington Jackson Tableaux, eight sculptures created by Charles d'Orville Pilkington Jackson in the 1920s, depict heroic scenes of Living-stone in Africa. However, these are now juxtaposed against the Tales from the Tableaux, an animation based on a screenplay by Zimbabwean author and lawyer Petina Gappah, during which the tableaux comes to life and expands on Living-stone's

Club Culture

Stereo

Words: Nadia Younes

hen you think of Glasgow nightclubs what probably comes to mind is a series of small, sweaty basement venues decked out with pounding sound systems that will leave your ears ringing for at least a week – unless, sensibly, you come prepared with ear plugs. Glasgow’s nightlife is world-renowned, largely thanks to a number of legendary venues and club nights birthed in the city. While some of the city’s most iconic venues, like The Arches and The Art School, may sadly no longer be in existence, those that are still standing continue to show – week in, week out – why Glasgow’s club scene is so revered.

A fresher face on Glasgow’s club scene, but with just as strong a reputation is La Cheetah Club (73 Queen St). Sitting beneath Max’s Bar and Grill, La Cheetah has steadily developed a reputation as one of Glasgow’s best clubs in its 12 year existence. Known as much for its dedication to supporting local artists and promoters as it is for bringing some of the world’s biggest DJs to its tiny 200-capacity basement, La Cheetah is a club all about balance and it’s in the club’s varied programming where it really thrives. In March 2019, to coincide with the club’s 10th birthday celebrations, the team behind La Cheetah announced an expansion, opening a much larger sister venue, Room 2 (69 Nelson Mandela Pl), taking over the space once held by Chambre 69. Both venues boast an esteemed Funktion One sound system but the sheer scale of Room 2 allows more opportunity in terms of the range of events that can be held within the venue, with the team branching out into live music and comedy.

Cross sits underneath a pawn shop and features a bespoke, custom-built sound system from Glasgow’s own We Enjoy Sound. The venue is known for frequently hosting the late Andrew Weatherall and Sean Johnston’s A Love From Outer Space, aka ALFOS, parties and Glasgow disco institution Supermax, with resident DJ Billy Woods at the helm, which is soon to celebrate a decade of parties in the venue. Both opening in 2007 and both serving delicious vegan food, Stereo (22 Renfield Ln) and its sister venue The Flying Duck (142 Renfield St) also serve up a tasty selection of gigs and club nights, leaning into the more eclectic side, in their basement spaces. Popular club nights in the venues include Glasgow queer clubbing staple PUSH IT and live music/clubbing hybrid, with a focus on showcasing local talent, A Cut Above.

For larger scale events, however, multi-venue warehouse SWG3 (100 Eastvale Pl) has a space for just about anything. From intimate club nights in The Poetry Club to huge parties in its Galvanizers space to outdoor events in the Galvanizers Yard, SWG3 has allowed space for a myriad Featuring much more lavish of events to take place in decor, but maintaining the Glasgow – and not just a basement feel, The Berkeley seemingly endless run of Suite (237 North St) in Charing Bongo’s Bingo events.

Glasgow City Guide

Sub Club (22 Jamaica St) is a venue synonymous with Glasgow nightlife and a true global clubbing institution. Beginning life as a club night in the early 80s, Sub Club found a permanent home in the venue formerly known as Lucifer’s in 1987 and has remained in the same location ever since. Its longest-running club night, Subculture, is also the longest-running weekly house music residency in the world, with resident DJs Harri and Domenic still at the helm 27 years on. It’s also known for being the venue in which legendary Glasgow-based duo Optimo launched their

infamous Optimo (Espacio) parties, running in the venue from 1997-2010.

Glasgow Clubs

From tiny basement venues to a huge multi-venue warehouse space – here’s our guide to Glasgow’s best clubs

Glasgow Clubs

HWFG! Twenty years ago The Arches opened its doors for the first time and changed Scotland’s arts scene forever. In new book, Brickwork: A Biography of The Arches, former employees David Bratchpiece and Kirstin Innes celebrate the iconic venue’s enduring legacy Photo: Calum Barr The Arches .

“T

he last minute scramble of ‘oh fuck, oh fuck!’; that was every day in The Arches,” says David Bratchpiece. “Performance art happening in one space, nudity; on-stage urination became a popular thing,” continues Kirstin Innes.

THE SKINNY

The pair are discussing the wonderful chaos of an average working day at historic Glasgow arts venue The Arches. Both former employees and passionate advocates for the venue’s cultural importance,

Interview: Nadia Younes Bratchpiece and Innes have co-authored a new book, Brickwork: A Biography of The Arches, celebrating the iconic venue’s enduring legacy.

chat room I was like, ‘guess what? I’ve just been asked to write a book’...but I saw Bratchy’s face just go [*gestures a confused look*], because Bratchy was already writing a book,” says Innes. “I For nearly 25 years – between totally thought I had my poker 1991-2015 – the venue was one face on,” Bratchpiece jokes. of the most celebrated in Scotland, and its influence The discovery was a blessing extended across Europe in disguise, however, as the and the rest of the world pair decided to work together too, renowned for its radical, on something much more unique and distinctly Arches comprehensive, and came up approach. Told through the with the idea to tell the story words of “the people who in the style of an oral history. made it what it was” – as it The book reads like a says in the book’s foreword free-flowing conversation, – Brickwork features the with memories from a range testimonials of over 60 of contributors – including the people, each with their own venue’s founder Andy Arnold, unique stories recounting their time spent at The Arches. In fact, it was while reminiscing about one of the venue’s most popular club nights, Death Disco, during a Zoom reunion in lockdown where Bratchpiece and Innes realised they were both working on separate books about The Arches’ legacy. “In the

“On-stage urination became a popular thing” Kirstin Innes

Glasgow Clubs

Image Courtesy of The Arches Arches clubbers , 1990

“We went right into the night having conversations on Slack about where things were going to fit in where, but the story just did seem to come together,” says Innes. “Wee things would stick in my head and I’d be messaging Kirstin in the middle of the night sometimes, going ‘keep that bit in!’” Bratchpiece continues.

Photo: Niall Walker

As much as The Arches has done for Scotland’s arts community, though, a key revelation in the book points to the venue as the birthplace of that chant. Here We Fucking Go is the title of an entire chapter in the book, dedicated to the origins of the now infamous chant heard at gigs, club nights, football matches, and just about any event Scottish crowds can get away with chanting it. But the initial response to the chant was anything but welcoming. “The Arches was a bit like ‘gonnae no do that’,” says Bratchpiece.

Image Courtesy of The Arches

playwright Cora Bissett, and DJ and former Arches patron Carl Cox – pieced together almost like a puzzle from various interviews conducted by Bratchpiece and Innes over a four-month period.

The Arches 21st birthday campaign,

“Since then, there’s a sort of mythology almost around it, so I’m actually quite chuffed that now in this book we’re like...that’s ours.”

“It was [at club night] Inside Out where it all kicked off… I couldn’t make it out at first and I was just like ‘what is this noise?’ And my mate, who Brickwork: A Biography of The I worked with, was like ‘it’s Arches is published on 4 Nov via this new thing they’re Salamander Street chanting’,” he continues. Ruth Negga at the Arches with Pan Pan Theatre Company, 2007

Glasgow City Guide

Despite its closure in 2015, The Arches is still widely considered one of the most important venues in Scotland’s history, and the stories in Brickwork beautifully detail exactly why it’s held so dear in the hearts of so many.

Glasgow Women's Library

Radical Archive We chat with Gabrielle Macbeth, the Volunteer Coordinator at Glasgow Women’s Library, about documenting erased histories, the rich community of Glasgow’s East End, and the importance of radical practices Interview: Anahit Behrooz

THE SKINNY

How did Glasgow Women’s Library get started? Glasgow Women’s Library started 30 years ago pretty much exactly. It grew out of an organisation called Women in Profile, which was set up in 1987 in the lead up to Glasgow being the 1990 European City of Culture. It was a group of women artists, writers, and creatives who wanted to make sure that women’s contributions to culture were going to be visible. Colleagues who were around at the time say there was a real sense that: “if we don’t do this, then no one else will” – those who had control over the cultural programme that year were not thinking about women’s contributions to culture at all.

So have the exhibitions and the lending library always been a part of Glasgow Women’s Library’s project? Showcasing creatives’ work has always been part of what What are some of the ways we do, and so has the library. that the goals of the library We’ve become more profeshave changed over the last sional in terms of our library 30 years? Or have they pretty and archive – we didn’t have much remained the same? a librarian [or an archivist] As part of our 30th anniversary for the first ten or 15 years. year we’ve been taking time to That didn’t mean that our reflect and we’re seeing that materials weren’t cared for anti-racist, LGBTQ+ and green – quite the opposite – but it’s work have always been meant we have a nice balance featured in our practice. between caring for the So I don’t know if our goals materials and encouraging have changed massively really, people to access them. it’s still about giving a voice to Archives in particular, from women [inclusive of trans, my experience, are not intersex and nonbinary people] particularly accessible places. who don’t have a voice or Students and academics use whose stories have been them but others may not. It was an activist reaction, really, erased. Although the term We want our tools to be which has run through our work intersectional feminism hadn’t accessible and for anyone ever since: a real commitment been coined 30 years ago, to feel that they can spend and desire to see women’s lives that’s definitely been part of time with and have a sense and contributions properly our thinking all along: involving of ownership of them, valued and recognised and working class women, women because actually these documented. Glasgow Women’s of colour, women with are materials about our Library grew out of it, from disabilities, migrant women. history and our lives. starting as a group of volunteers to having paid staff to bigger premises and to now being the only accredited museum to women’s history in the UK.

Glasgow Women's Library

Photo: Neil Hanna Forms of Care in Art and Activism, GWL Community Room, Olivia Plender

Glasgow Women's Library

Photo: Glasgow Women's Library

THE SKINNY

East End Women's Heritage Walk

Glasgow Women’s Library runs a volunteer scheme – what are some of the ways you hope the library can engage with the broader community? We are a grassroots organisation: we started as a group of women who made all this come about. So we see ourselves as the community – I work for Glasgow Women’s Library but prior to that I was a member who borrowed books and came to events. There isn’t this us and them relationship, and I suppose volunteering reflects that, because the volunteers are a part of our team but they also benefit from volunteering. We work really hard to identify what it is that volunteers want to get from the experience and then develop a role that is going to be exciting and challenging. I think this idea of the relationship with the community being symbiotic is really interesting. You mentioned

that this is the only accredited museum of women’s history in the UK, but it is also a specifically Glasgow institution. What are some of the ways that particular community is reflected in your work? Although we feel this could have happened almost anywhere – there’s nothing particularly special about collecting materials about women’s history and a lot of our materials are not Glasgow focused – we are based in the East End of Glasgow and we are very proud of that and have very close contact with the community. When we moved to this location, we researched the history of women in the area and developed a guided tour that takes people down to Glasgow Green, where suffragettes congregated and where women would go to dry their laundry, and down to the

Barras where women worked as hawkers. We’ve also done projects with local groups as well, groups that focus on women’s history or groups who offer specialised services to women who have experienced homelessness and sexual abuse, providing a space for them to display work that they’ve made. You also have the only lesbian archive in the UK, is that right? We’ve actually just finished a two-year project to make that collection more accessible. It is significant: it makes up about a third of what we have and was one of the earliest collections to come to us in the mid-90s. And obviously we’ve been adding to it because lesbian history has continued! An element [of this project] was to involve volunteers in listing and digitising it, although

Glasgow Women's Library

Photo: Kieth Hunter GWL Building Exterior

It strikes me that a lot of the work at Glasgow Women’s Library is not just speaking to these issues but is very explicitly radical. I visited one of your exhibitions recently and there was an anti-police raid poster on display from the 80s, which felt very timely but also not something that a lot of institutions would display. Does this radical approach feel central to what you do? I think a lot of institutional organisations do things because they’ve always been done in a certain way. Whereas, and this comes back to the reflective nature of how we work, we can say: “well, this doesn’t make sense” and we have the freedom to do it differently. The expression I’ve heard colleagues use is that we don’t mind being the grit in the oyster. In the example

that you mention, we were showing archive materials about something that has happened. These materials happen to be in our care and we’re displaying them, and people can kind of take what they want from that. I think it is radical to give marginalised voices a space. It is radical to break the mould and do things in a way that is true to our values.

You can visit Glasgow Women’s Library to explore their exhibitions and collections, 23 Landressy St, Bridgeton, Tue-Sun, times vary womenslibrary.org.uk

Glasgow City Guide

unfortunately that was stalled because of COVID. But another element was commissioning an artist called Ingrid Pollard to make work that responded to this collection – her show, which was originally for Glasgow International 2020, launched in May of this year and was our first post-COVID exhibition. What I found particularly interesting about Ingrid’s work is that she’s a bit older and she remembers some of the materials, like she was actually involved in printing some of the posters [in our collection]. It’s this really amazing connection where she can go back and say: “Oh, this is what this was about”, and also reflect on how some of the issues haven’t really changed and all the rights that have been gained are once more under threat.

Image: Rut Karin Zettergren, Finn Arschavir, Jens Evaldsson

City of Activism

Fungal Datascapes, Goethe-Institut

There is a lot happening in Glasgow around the COP26 United Nations Climate Conference. While the world leaders meet in the SEC, Glasgow will no doubt live up to its reputation as a proving ground of social activism, as organisers from around the globe converge in the surrounding city to stage a diverse programme of events and workshops. We’ve pulled together a few highlights from the many, many events happening – for a full run down head to the websites listed below, and keep an eye on our socials.

THE SKINNY

Words: Rosamund West

People’s Summit for Climate Justice, various venues, 7-10 Nov While world leaders meet to discuss our future at COP26, the COP26 Coalition will be building power for system change. Bringing together the climate justice movement to discuss, learn and strategise for system change, their programme includes 180+

events which can be joined online from anywhere in the world, or in-person in Glasgow. The list is astonishingly wide-ranging, including expert panels on holding government to account for climate change, discussions on the ecological impact of deep sea mining, artist workshops on subvertising campaign strategies and climbing lessons to facilitate

direct protest. Find the full list on their site: cop26coalition. org/peoples-summit Common Ground Fest, QMU, Sat 6 Nov, 4-10pm, free Rockstars, politicians, campaigners, activists and changemakers will join forces on Saturday 6 November for Common Ground Fest featuring

and visitors are invited to explore a range of exhibitions, ranging from Passivhaus technologies and sustainable power generation through to active travel solutions and collaborative art pieces. Find out more about the exhibitors and the full programme of events here: thesustainable glasgowlanding.com

been built by Stop Climate Chaos Scotland to join together all the activities that are happening in the run-up to, and during COP. climatefringe.org

Glasgow City Guide

New York Times Climate Hub, SWG3, 3-11 Nov, day tickets £24.99 A programme of events and workshops striving to answer Circular Arts Net the question: how do we adapt Mini Depot, BoxHub, Fungal Datascapes, and thrive on a changing planet? 50 Washington St, Goethe-Institut The NYT/SWG3 ticketed series until 24 Nov Glasgow, 5-30 Nov, free is a more expensive option than Throughout COP26, Circular Subtitled A Sporous Commons the People’s Summit grassroots Arts Net (CAN) will be teaming of Mushrooms and Climate, activism, but with speakers up with BoxHub to create a this immersive art installation including Malala Yousafzai, mini depot. Located in the and 360 degree video David Lammy and, for some City Centre, the creative hub experience has been created reason, Matt Damon, it looks set will offer storage and a space and realised by artists Rut to be a fascinating journey. for resources to be shared. Karin Zettergren (Sweden), swg3.tv/the-new-york-timesGather or donate materials Finn Arschavir (Scotland) and climate-hub for reuse within art projects, Jens Evaldsson (Sweden). The exhibitions or events for FREE. piece is part of the Goethe COP26, A Special The space will be open Institute’s project Weather Culture and Climate Wednesdays and Fridays Glass or Crystal Ball? Mapping Event, St Luke’s, 1-2pm, and accessible with an the Weather in Arts and Sat 6 Nov, 9.30-3am, access code (which you can Science. A preview event on 4 prices vary get from info@canarts.org.uk) November (6-9pm) will feature This all-dayer in the East End begins with a free to attend at other times. sound improvisation by artist canarts.org.uk and musician Danny Pagarani. conference (9.30am-2.15pm) followed by live music (7-11pm, lablab.se/weatherglass £5-35) then an after party Sustainable Glasgow orcrystalball (11pm-3am, £10). Artists include Landing, 220 BroomBEMZ, Sarra Wild and Groove ielaw, 29 Oct-14 Nov Climate Fringe Armada’s Andy Cato, with talks The Sustainable Glasgow More of a resource than an focusing on the intersection of Landing has transformed a event per se, the Climate vacant riverside site for the Fringe site provides a platform culture and climate, exploring how music and entertainment duration of COP26 into a for all of civil society, from can play a role in the fight vibrant space where climate activists to NGOs to trade against climate change. and social justice movements unions to share events and umaentertainment.com/ meet the arts. There is a connect around climate events/cop26-special-event packed events programme, change and COP26. It has

COP26 Fringe

keynote speakers, live music, panels, installations, stalls and more. Acts announced so far include Rou Reynolds (Enter Shikari), Colonel Mustard & The Dijon 5, Caroline Lucas MP, Pat Kane (Hue and Cry), Dr Katherine Trebeck, The Dalmar Chorus (Kapil Seshasayee, Willie Campbell) and even The Fratellis. commongroundfest.org

Index

Key: City Centre

East End

Finnieston, Partick FP Gorbals, Kinning Park, Cessnock, Govan GKC Merchant City, Trongate MCT North N Southside S West End

THE SKINNY

Bars

Arta 62 Albion St MCT Babbity Bowster 16-18 Blackfriars St MCT Bananamoon 360 Great Western Rd WE Bar 91 91 Candleriggs MCT Bar Soba 11 Mitchell Ln CC Bier Halle 9 Gordon St CC Brel 37-42 Ashton Ln WE Broadcast 427 Sauchiehall St CC Chinaski’s 239 North St FP Delmonicas 68 Virginia St MCT DRAM! 232 Woodlands Rd WE Drygate 85 Drygate EE Dukes Bar 41 Old Dumbarton Rd FP Heraghty’s 708 Pollokshaws Rd S Hillhead Bookclub 17 Vinicombe St WE Katie’s Bar 17 John St MCT Koelschip Yard 686-688 Pollokshaws Rd S

Maggie May’s 60 Trongate MCT Max’s Bar & Grill 73 Queen St CC Merchant Square 71 Albion St MCT Minnesota Fats 1053-1055 Cathcart Rd S Mono 12 Kings Ct MCT Nice N Sleazy 421 Sauchiehall St CC Palais 380 Duke St EE Rufus T Firefly 207 Hope St CC Saramago Cafe and Bar, CCA 350 Sauchiehall St CC Star Bar 537-539 Eglinton St S Stereo 22-28 Renfield Ln CC Strathduie Bar 3-5 Blackfriars St MCT Tabac 10 Mitchell Ln CC The 13th Note 50-60 King St MCT The Allison Arms 720 Pollokshaws Rd S The Arlington 130 Woodlands Rd WE The Belle 617 Great Western Rd WE The Botany 795 Maryhill Rd N The BrewHaus (fka Crosslands) 182 Queen Margaret Dr N The Clutha 169 Stockwell St MCT The Dolphin 157 Dumbarton Rd FP The Doublet 74 Park Rd WE The Corinthian Club 191 Ingram St MCT The Flying Duck 42 Renfield St CC

The Horseshoe Bar 17-19 Drury Ln CC The Hug and Pint 171 Great Western Rd WE The Laurieston 58 Bridge St GKC The Old Hairdresser’s Renfield Ln CC The Old Toll Bar 1 Paisley Rd W GKC The Pot Still 154 Hope St CC The Scotia 112 Stockwell St MCT The Smiddy 309 Dumbarton Rd FP The Sparklehorse Dowanhill St FP The State Bar 148-184a Holland St CC The Thornwood 724 Dumbarton Rd FP The Three Judges 141 Dumbarton Rd FP The Underground 6A John St MCT The Variety Bar 401 Sauchiehall St CC Tramway 25 Albert Dr S WEST 15 Binnie Pl EE

Bookshops A1 Toys 31 Parnie St MCT Aye Aye Books, CCA 350 Sauchiehall St CC Burning House Books 446 Cathcart Rd S Caledonia Books 483 Great Western Rd WE Category Is Books 34 Allison St S Forbidden Planet 122-126 Sauchiehall St CC Good Press 32 St Andrew St EE Mount Florida Books 1069 Cathcart Rd S

Outwith Books 14 Albert Dr Oxfam Bookshop 330 Byres Rd Ripe Barras Market, Moncur St Tell It Slant 134 Renfrew St

S WE

EE CC

Cafes & Bakeries Banh Mi & Tea 401 Dumbarton Rd FP Bee’s Knees Cafe 83 Bowman St S Cafe D’Jaconelli 570 Maryhill Rd N Cafe Gandolfi 64 Albion St MCT Cafe Strange Brew 1082 Pollokshaws Rd S Celino’s 620 Alexandra Pde EE Comet Pieces 150 Queen Margaret Dr N Cottonrake Bakery 497 Great Western Rd WE Dear Green 13-27 E Campbell St EE East Coffee Company 30 Hillfoot St EE Gordon Street Coffee 79 Gordon St CC Grain and Grind 742 Pollokshaws Rd S Kaf 5 Hyndland St FP Kelvin Pocket 72 S Woodside Rd WE Kelvingrove Café 1161 Argyle St FP Kothel 536 Great Western Rd WE Laboratorio Espresso 93 W Nile St CC Mackintosh at the Willow 215-217 Sauchiehall St CC Mesa 567 Duke St EE

Cinemas

Clothes Shops De Courcy’s Arcade 5-21 Cresswell Ln

Food & Drink Shops Babylon Supermarket 3-5 Commerce St GKC Aladdin’s 45 Commerce St GKC Locavore 449 Dumbarton Rd FP Lupe Pinto’s 313 Great Western Rd WE Valhalla’s Goat 449 Great Western Rd WE Roots, Fruits and Flowers 455 Great Western Rd WE SeeWoo 29 Saracen St N Society Zero 162 Queen Margaret Dr N

Food On-the-go Baked 120 Duke St EE Beirut Star 450 Paisley Rd W GKC Brawsome Bagels 292 Dumbarton Rd FP Falafel To Go 116 Sauchiehall St CC Glasgow Sweet Centre 202 Allison St S Hooked 1027 Cathcart Rd S Kurdish Street Food 12-14 Allison St S MacTasso’s Kelvin Way FP

Mrs Falafel 1 Ashley St WE Piece 100 Miller St MCT Shahed’s Takeaway 712 Pollokshaws Rd S Shawarma King 113 King St MCT

Kiosk Gallery 25 Prince Edward St S Listen Gallery 204 Hunter St EE Market Gallery 334 Duke St EE Mount Florida Gallery/ Studios 37 Clincart Rd S Project Ability Galleries & 103 Trongate MCT Arts Venues The Alchemy Experiment 16 Nicholson St WE 16 Nicholson St GKC 157 Byres Rd The Art Launderette 20 Albert Road CC 20 Albert Rd S 39 Dalhousie St The Briggait Carnival Arts Yard MCT 124 Craighall Rd N 141 Bridgegate The Common Guild Centre for Contemporary 5 Florence St GKC Arts (CCA) 350 Sauchiehall St CC The Glue Factory 15 Burns St N Civic House 26 Civic St N The Lighthouse CC David Dale Gallery & Studios 11 Mitchell Ln 161 Broad St EE The Modern Institute French Street 14-20 Osborne St MCT 103-109 French St WE The Old Hairdresser’s CC Goethe-Institute Renfield Ln 3 Park Circus EE The Whisky Bond 2 Dawson Rd N Hunterian Gallery and Museum Tramway University of Glasgow, 25 Albert Dr S 82 Hillhead St WE Transmission Gallery Gallery of Modern Art 28 King St MCT 111 Queen St CC Trongate 103 Glasgow Print Studio 103 Trongate MCT 103 Trongate MCT SaltSpace Glasgow School of Art’s 270 High St MCT Reid Building Sharmanka 164 Renfrew St CC 103 Trongate MCT Glasgow Sculpture Studios South Block 2 Dawson Rd N 60-64 Osborne St MCT Glasgow Women’s Library Street Level 23 Landressy St EE Photography Works Govan Project Space 103 Trongate MCT 249 Govan Rd GKC Grey Wolf Studios Homeware & 131 Craighall Rd N Gift Shops Kelvingrove Art Gallery A1 Toys & Museum 31 Parnie St MCT Argyle St WE Fire Works Studio Kendall Koppe 35a Dalhousie St CC 36-38 Coburg GKC

Glasgow City Guide

Glasgow Film Theatre (GFT) 12 Rose St CC

Minted 105 Kings Ct MCT Mr Ben 6 Kings Ct MCT Starry Starry Night 19 Dowanside Ln WE The Blankfaces 427 Great Western Rd WE The City Retro Fashion 41 King St MCT West Vintage 95 King St MCT

Index

Milk 452 Victoria Rd S North Star Cafe 108 Queen Margaret Dr N Ocho 8 Speirs Wharf N Papercup 603 Great Western Rd WE Plantyful 3 Osborne St MCT Rawnchy 98 Bellgrove St EE Riverhill Coffee Bar 24 Gordon St CC Saramago Cafe and Bar, CCA 350 Sauchiehall St CC Serenity Now 380 Great Western Rd WE Short Long Black 501 Victoria Rd S Singl-end 263 Renfrew St CC Singl-end 15 John St MCT Sprigg 241 Ingram St MCT Sweet Jane 434 Duke St EE Tantrum Doughnuts 28 Gordon St CC Tapa Coffee & Bakehouse 19-21 Whitehill St EE Tchai-Ovna House of Tea 42 Otago Ln WE Tennent’s Bar 191 Byres Rd WE Tinderbox 189 Byres Rd WE Transylvania Coffee Shop 462 Victoria Rd S University Cafe 87 Byres Rd WE

Index

Flowers Vermillion 18 St. Andrew St EE Maia Gifts 21 Bath St CC Ruthven Mews 57 Ruthven Ln WE Squid Ink Co 18 St Andrew St EE Submarine 8 Kent St EE Wild Gorse Pottery 684 Pollokshaws Rd S

Markets & Shopping Centres Argyll Arcade 30 Buchanan St CC Buchanan Galleries 220 Buchanan St CC Merchant Square 71 Albion St MCT Park Lane Market 974 Pollokshaws Rd S Platform 253 Argyle St CC Princes Square Buchanan St CC St Enoch Centre 55 St Enoch Sq CC The Barras Market 242 Gallowgate EE The Big Feed 249-325 Govan Rd GKC The Big Zero Waste Market The Deep End, 21 Nithsdale St S The Italian Centre 7 John St MCT The Savoy Centre 140 Sauchiehall St CC Zero Waste Market 17 Hillfoot St EE

THE SKINNY

Record Shops

Love Music 34 Dundas St Monorail Music 12 Kings Ct Oxfam Music 171 Byres Rd

CC MCT WE

Some Great Reward 520 Victoria Rd

Restaurants Banana Leaf 76 Old Dumbarton Rd FP Bar Soba 11 Mitchell Ln CC Basta 561 Dumbarton Rd FP Battlefield Rest 55 Battlefield Rd S Bibimbap 3 W Nile St CC Bread Meats Bread 65 St Vincent St CC Brutti Compadres 3 Virginia Ct MCT Cafe Cossachok 10 King St MCT Celentano’s 28-32 Cathedral Sq EE Celino’s 620 Alexandra Pde EE Celino’s 235 Dumbarton Rd FP Crabshakk 114 Argyle St FP Dumpling Monkey 121 Dumbarton Rd FP Eighty Eight 88 Dumbarton Rd FP El Perro Negro 152 Woodlands Rd WE Errols 379 Victoria Rd S Five March 140 Elderslie St FP Gloriosa 1321 Argyle St FP Halloumi 697 Pollokshaws Rd S Hanoi Bike Shop 8 Ruthven Ln WE Inn Deep 445 Great Western Rd WE Julie’s Kopitiam 1109 Pollokshaws Rd Ka Pao 26 Vinicombe St WE

Kimchi Cult 14 Chancellor St WE Little Hoi An 26 Allison St S Maki & Ramen 21 Bath St CC Max’s Bar & Grill 73 Queen St CC Merchant Square 71 Albion St MCT Mono 12 Kings Ct MCT Mother India 28 Westminster Terr FP Nanakusa 441 Sauchiehall St CC New Anand 76 Nithsdale Rd S Niven’s 72 Nithsdale Rd S Non Viet 536 Sauchiehall St CC Osteria 17 John St MCT Paesano 94 Miller St MCT Paesano 471 Great Western Rd WE Pizza Punks 90 St Vincent St CC Rafa’s 1103 The Hidden Ln FP Ranjit’s Kitchen 607 Pollokshaws Rd S Sacred Tum Tacos 522 Victoria Rd S Sarti 121 Bath St CC Sarti 133 Wellington St CC Slice 15 John St MCT Stereo 22-28 Renfield Ln CC Sugo 70 Mitchell St CC Tabac 10 Mitchell Ln CC Te Seba 393 Great Western Rd WE

The 13th Note 50-60 King St MCT The Botany 795 Maryhill Rd N The Corinthian Club 191 Ingram St MCT The Finnieston 1125 Argyle St FP The Flying Duck 142 Renfield St CC The Hug and Pint 171 Great Western Rd WE The Rum Shack 657-659 Pollokshaws Rd S Ting Thai Caravan 19 W Nile St CC Topolobamba 89 St Vincent St CC Ubiquitous Chip 12 Ashton Ln WE

Venues: Comedy Clubs The Stand Comedy Club 333 Woodlands Rd WE

Venues: Live Music & Nightclubs

Arta 62 Albion St MCT AXM 90 Glassford St MCT Barrowland Ballroom 244 Gallowgate EE Broadcast 427 Sauchiehall St CC Glasgow Royal Concert Hall 2 Sauchiehall St CC King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut 272A St Vincent St CC La Cheetah 73 Queen St CC Mono 12 Kings Ct MCT Nice N Sleazy 421 Sauchiehall St CC O2 Academy 121 Eglinton St GKC

The Corinthian Club 191 Ingram St MCT The Flying Duck 142 Renfield St CC The Glad Cafe 1006A Pollokshaws Rd S The Glue Factory 15 Burns St N The Hug and Pint 171 Great Western Rd WE The Old Hairdresser’s Renfield Ln CC The OVO Hydro Exhibition Way, Stobcross Rd FP The Riding Room 58 Virginia St MCT The Whisky Bond 2 Dawson Rd N

The Pavillion Theatre 121 Renfield St CC The Theatre Royal 282 Hope St CC Tramway 25 Albert Dr S Tron Theatre Company 63 Trongate MCT Webster’s Theatre 416 Great Western Rd WE

Visitor Attractions

Celtic Park Parkhead EE Climbing Academy’s Prop Store 24 Craigmont St N Clydeside Distillery 100 Stobcross Rd FP Venues: Disc Golf Course Theatre Ruchill Park N & Dance Firhill Stadium City for Contemporary Arts 80 Firhill Rd N (CCA) Glasgow Science Centre 350 Sauchiehall St CC 50 Pacific Quay GKC King’s Theatre Gorbals Southern 297 Bath St CC Necropolis Sharmanka Caledonia Rd GKC 103 Trongate MCT

Govan Old Parish Church 866 Govan Rd GKC Ibrox Stadium 150 Edmiston Dr GKC Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum Argyle St WE Loading Bay Skatepark Borron St N Mackintosh at the Willow 215-217 Sauchiehall St CC Pinkston Watersports 75 N Canal Bank St N Queen’s Cross Church 870 Garscube Rd N Riverside Museum 100 Pointhouse Rd FP Scotland Street School 225 Scotland St GKC The Children’s Wood and North Kelvin Meadow 76 Kelbourne St N The People’s Palace Glasgow Green, Templeton St EE The Tenement House 145 Buccleuch St CC

Index

Òran Mór Top of Byres Rd WE Polo Lounge 84 Wilson St MCT Queen Margaret Union 22 University Gardens WE Room 2 69 Nelson Mandela Pl CC SEC Armadillo Exhibition Way, Stobcross Rd FP SEC Exhibition Way, Stobcross Rd FP St Luke’s & The Winged Ox 17 Bain St EE Stereo 22 Renfield Ln CC Sub Club 22 Jamaica St CC SWG3 100 Eastvale Pl FP The 13th Note 50-60 King St MCT The Berkeley Suite 237 North St FP The Briggait 141 Bridgegate MCT The Britannia Panopticon Music Hall MCT 117 Trongate

Photo: Liza Pooor Glasgow City Guide

The Duke of Wellington Statue

Crossword

13 14 16

22 23

THE SKINNY

Across 1. Duke of Wellington's frequent headgear (7,4) 9. Strolling (7) 10. Promised (5) 11. Friend (French) (3) 13. Mountaintops (8) 15. Condiments (4) 16. Scottish energy company (3) 17. Encourage e.g. a horse (4) 20. ___ Kelly – Scottish TV presenter (8) 21. Alcohol distilled from sugar cane (3) 23. Board (public transport) (3,2) 24. Stasis (7) 26. Major train station in Glasgow (5,6)

Turn to page 6 for the solutions

Compiled by George Sully

Down 2. ___ C. Nesbitt (3) 3. Insubstantial (6) 4. Cheerful – pro idiots sing (anag) (2,4,7) 5. Study of good citizenship (6) 6. e.g. Daily Record, The Herald (9) 7. Lewis or Peter? (7) 8. Unusual (3) 12. Spontaneous (9) 14. Contemporary arts venue in Pollokshields (7) 18. Clockwork ___ – nickname for Glasgow's subway (6) 19. Surface appearance (6) 22. What for? (3) 25. Draw (3)

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The Skinny Guide to Glasgow 2021

Articles inside

Gorbals, Kinning Park, Cessnock & Govan by Tara Hepburn

Southside by Eliza Gearty

East End by Tony Inglis

North by Laurie Presswood

West End by Peter Simpson

City Centre by Tallah Brash

Merchant City & Trongate by Jamie Dunn

Finnieston & Partick by Tony Inglis