the alhambra

The walk from the town up to the Alhambra is unbelievably beautiful–definitely worth the uphill hike. The rills–narrow channels carved by the Moors into the hillside to convey water–you’ll see all along the way irrigate the whole area and create a babbling organic soundscape throughout the complex. The constant burbling music of the water had a second practical use–it ensured privacy for the citadel’s inhabitants, when the walls were listening in on your every conversation.

Unlike the grand western architecture of the neighbouring Charles V Palace with its imposing facade, the Alhambra itself appears more humble on the outside, and it’s not until you’re inside that it reveals its true splendour.

A series of indirect entrances and holding rooms mean that you meander through the space, experiencing delightful moments of drama and surprise as you do. At its opulent heart, decoration covers every conceivable surface, from pebbles inlaid into the ground in a myriad of patterns, to intricately tiled walls, lines of poetry carved into stone and wood, and ornate plasterwork the likes of which I’ve never seen in all of my travels around the globe.

Much of the restoration occurred during the 19th century, and it’s fascinating to see the approach that was taken. Where a wall has crumbled, it hasn’t always been replaced perfectly with another masonry wall. Instead, hedges have been used cleverly to mirror the original architecture and pay homage to the effect the centuries have had on the buildings, rather than covering it up.

The Alhambra is too much to take in during one visit alone, so give yourself two days. Take a tour first, and return later to wander by yourself, perhaps after you’ve refreshed yourself with tapas and some local wine. The play of light and shadow at different times of day alone warrants a second visit. In early June it’s already getting hot in the middle of the day, so aim for earlier in the year if you can, or wait until after summer’s heat has abated.

The Museo De Bellas Artes

housed in the Palace of Charles V, built next to the Alhambra so the emperor could enjoy the view. Go past all the scary religious stuff to the middle room dedicated to still life artworks, and don’t miss the last section where Manuel Angeles Ortiz and Ismaël González de la Serna are featured.

Take a moment to appreciate the stately grey sierra elvira marble, and the sumptuously variegated stone naturally embedded with colourful pebbles which is all quarried in nearby Loja.

The Paseo de los tristes, or promenade of the sad ones, is a walk in the Darro valley, between Alhambra and Albaicin. In days gone by it was the path of funerary processions, but today it’s a charming thoroughfare that follows the path of the river, bordered by old churches, bubbling fountains, a bell-tower you can climb, and many places to eat and drink. It’s cobblestoned and you share the path with taxis and bikes, so leave the heels at home, this is a sneaker-only town. Much of the stone you see here is local.

The 11th Century El Banuelo

Hammam al-Yawza, is a non-functioning bathhouse in the Albaicin quarter that makes for a fascinating visit. Every beautifully preserved arch and column is beautiful, but be sure to also look up to the ceiling as you wander through the series of chambers, so you don’t miss the octagonal and star-shaped skylights, which acted as vents for steam to escape.

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TAPAS & BODEGAS

It’s honestly hard to go wrong with tapas in Granada. For the traditional vibe, Bodegas Castañeda and Casa Enrique are good choices. More contemporary options include Rosario Varela and Casa Patrona.

Go to Heladeria Los Italianos for ice cream. It’s been in business for 87 years for a reason. As you walk down the streets between venues, enjoy the scent of the heirloom citrus trees which are a feast for the senses in themselves.

Parador De Granada

The Parador de Granada is within the grounds of the Alhambra. I get up early and walk around the citadel–the buildings aren’t open for the day yet, but it’s almost magical to wander between them at that quiet hour, feeling like I have the place to myself.

Tip: Room 304 is in a turret known as the Torre del Alba. The interior decor isn’t anything to write home about, and the bedroom itself doesn’t have windows, but if you go up the stairs into the turret itself, you can pull out the sofa bed and sleep there instead, with a view over the summer gardens.

ROAD TRIP: GRANADA TO RONDA

Embarking on a picturesque road trip through the stunning landscapes of Andalusia, we set off from Granada, ham baguette in hand. Our destination: the countryside outside of Ronda. Choosing to veer off the beaten path, we take the back road A95, immersing ourselves in the kaleidoscope of pinks, oranges, and ochre reds that adorn the limestone valleys.

However, we do stop, briefly, in Antequera, visiting a bull ring and experiencing an average lunch in an average spot. It serves as a reminder that sometimes, it’s best to stick to the road! Back in the car, giant-headed Queen Anne Lace flowers line the road, bobbing in the gentle breeze, nodding us on our way.

As we wind our way through the countryside, olive groves punctuate the landscape, their sage foliage creating a serene backdrop to fields of wheat and bales of garlic being harvested. There’s no need to stop when it’s so enjoyable to take in the vistas on the ride.

It’s early June and it’s a lovely 28 degrees celsius. You can feel the Levante dialling up its vibrancy and warmth as it begins the downhill rush into summer.

Navigating through the windy streets that meander through the countryside, we reach our destination, Hotel la Fuente de la Higuera. The hotel boasts a pool, nestled in a tranquil walled garden with views out over the terraced hillside and an honesty bar.

We are in Room 1, a gorgeous garden suite with wooden floors painted a sunny egg yellow. A green velvet sofa, a luxurious four-poster bed, and Spanish colonial antiques adorn the space, all gently lit with lamps. Then there’s the giant copper tub. Even as a migraine takes hold, I’m in heaven. There couldn’t be a nicer place to rest and recuperate.

Outside the window framed by grapevines, the hotel’s lush garden brims with fragrant roses, olive trees, and a graceful ginkgo tree. Further afield, we spy almond trees, firs with natural topiary tops and more olive trees–these ones ancient and blossoming. Dinner features fresh market produce such as white asparagus and succulent fish.

We dine in the peace and quiet of our jewelbox of a room, the gentle patter of early evening rain outside making it feel even more like a haven.

Tip: We only had five days on this trip so we avoided the Malaga Coast, sticking to the high road instead. If you have a little more time, drop down to the coast, and also take a detour up to Cordoba to see the Moorish architecture. It adds about 5 hours driving each way, but is well worth it!

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Perched atop the dramatic limestone cliffs of Andalusia, Ronda looks down into the gorge where the Guadalevin River flowing peacefully through the heart of the town.

We are captivated by the local craftsmanship, particularly the art of weaving Nea, a traditional technique used for woven seats. This intricate craft showcases the artisans’ skill and dedication to preserving their local cultural heritage.

As we wander through the streets, I’m mesmerised by the abundance of incredible wrought iron work adorning the town. From door hardware and street lanterns to gates and railings, the exquisite metalwork is a testament to the fact that the town has been steeped in this trade for centuries.

ronda

They tell me it’s part of their gypsy heritage. Even street bins casually display heart-achingly beautiful metalwork that has me swooning.

Ronda is a town of bridges, each with its own unique history. The “new” bridge, dating back to the 18th century, stands proudly alongside its Roman and 14th-century counterparts. The streets are cobbled, with tiled street names that add to the town’s charm.

We visit the bullring, which is one of the oldest in Spain, and it’s worth it for the beauty of the hand painted barricades alone. A quick whizz through the onsite museum is also worthwhile to admire the costume finery.

Ronda really is a charming town with a magnificent view. Peacock calls echo through the river gorge from the moorish hillside abundance home (waiting for heritage approval to become a hotel). Before you leave, let yourself get lost in the old part of town. On one of these cobbled paths you may come across the old olive chair maker who weaves with Nea.

The main pedestrian shopping street has everything you need to create a feast of local fare. Olive oil, a staple of the region, takes centre stage, while the local jamón iberico, mushrooms and artisanal goat and ewe’s cheese are also excellent. If eating out, try the local almond soup, or the hearty spinach and chickpea stew.

THE PARADOR

Get a room at the Parador in town, with balconies overlooking the stunningly dramatic gorge, it can’t be beaten for location.

Jerez, or Jerez de la Frontera as it’s formally known, is a melting pot of architectural styles, having been home to Romans, Moors and Christians over the centuries. 18th century warehouses line the streets with their dignified creamy plastered walls, and the most beautiful lanterns cast light on the Gothic, Baroque and Moorish facades of everything from bodegas to the cathedral and the belltower.

The Alcázar fortress dates back to the 12th century and houses an enormous park within its crenellated double walls. Like many sites here it closes at 2pm, with last tours at noon, so make use of the morning and save the afternoon for tapas and sherry.

The Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art is worth a visit. Catch one of their world-famous equestrian performances, a touristy but fun highlight of any visit to Jerez. It’s worth investing in a private tour so you can access all the rooms, hang out and see the gorgeous horses.

But never fear, if you miss the school, the Museo del Enganche is the true highlight for me anyway. Its displays of carriages, horses and tackle are outstanding, even if this isn’t something you thought you’d be interested in. I was especially captivated by the carriage upholstery, which demonstrates the true expertise gained when a community spends hundreds of years perfecting an artform–sublime.

If you’re inspired by the equestrian style–or even if you just love a beautifully handmade hat and boots–visit Sombreros Antonio Garcia. If you find a hat in your size, grab it!

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Hotel Bodega Tio Pepe for super elegant rooms bedecked with French oak, limestone floors and etched marble. And don’t miss the majestic views of the cathedral and fort from the rooftop terrace and pool.