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AMACEN & MERCADO DE ABASTOS

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the alhambra

the alhambra

All of the major wineries of the famed sherry region also have a place in the town. If you don’t have time to tour the countryside from one cellar door to the next, you can simply take a few steps down the old laneways romantically covered with grapevines to nip into their Jerez bodegas instead. Tio Pepe has a very fine one.

El Amacen is a good spot to stop for wine and tasty tapas.

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For fresh fish, fruit and vegetables, visit the Mercado de Abastos on Calle Doña Blanca. The Cádiz coast is just a stone’s throw away, so the fish is excellent, but note that it’s not available on Mondays.

Seville, or Sevilla to the locals, is a city where culture, history, and mouthwatering cuisine converge. Flat, and easy to get around by foot or bike, it’s a dream to wander around this cultural melting pot that combines Moorish, Christian and Jewish influences–as long as you avoid the extreme heat of mid-summer and choose your footwear wisely!

Begin your explorations by immersing yourself in the history and culture of Seville by paying a visit to the local bookstore. You can indulge in books on carriages, saddles, clothing, artists, food, plants and, of course, the famed architecture of the region. As you meander through the charming streets, you’ll be dazzled by the exquisite tapas interiors and shop fronts that adorn every corner. Seville takes pride in its attention to detail, showcasing the most beautiful streetscapes wherever you look.

This is the home of flamenco, so set aside some time to explore the traditional flamenco shops, brimming with a vibrant array of fans, gloves, scarves, and other accessories. Head to Antonio García Sombreros (the purveyor of equestrian goods also has 3 shops here in Seville, each one different) and Sombrerería Maquedano, where you can discover a treasure trove of felt hats, straw hats, jackets, skirts, leather boots, scarves, and fine wool ponchos.

A visit to Cordoneria Alba is a must for textile enthusiasts. The magic of intricate handloomed passementerie and textiles spill out onto the street as the 18th-century loom refuses to be confined within its walls. Almacenes Velasco is another place to discover beautiful passementerie, trims and fabric.

Populart is another must-visit with its stunning collection of Granada terracotta glazed bowls and vessels. These beautiful creations are overflowing with Andalusian charm and you’ll want to take them all home with you. If you’re a stationery enthusiast, Papeleria Ferrer sells quills and ink, as well as more modern writing implements, globes and the kind of ornate notebooks you’ll want to immediately fill with your travel musings. Discover the friendly rivalry between Sevillans and Granadians at the Alcazar, an architectural gem that predates the Alhambra.

The exquisite details and stunning gardens will captivate your senses as you immerse yourself in centuries-old history.

Before bidding farewell to Seville, make sure to visit the iconic Metropol Parasol, an architectural masterpiece by Zaha Hadid. Do go up into it–the views are breathtaking. There is a working hammam in the Santa Cruz neighbourhood, Aire, where you can visit the pools and book various treatments. We didn’t have time, but I’m told it’s blissfully relaxing.

And last but not least, the Plaza de España is a must-see. Lose yourself in the grandeur of this landmark square, adorned with intricate tile work and surrounded by a picturesque park.

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PALACIO BUCARELLI

We stayed at Palacio Bucarelli, a converted 18th century house in the old part of town, owned & occupied by the same family for centuries. The large, generous rooms are more like mini apartments, and I can attest that room 14 is beautiful! There’s a central courtyard where you can enjoy the tranquillity along with a cocktail you’ve mixed at the honesty bar.

For a hands-on experience, book an Andalusian cooking lesson with Patricia de Terry Moreno-Campillo in her apartment located in a picturesque square. Learn the art of preparing traditional local dishes like Salmorejo (the thicker, creamier cousin of gazpacho), Tortilla de Patatas (Spanish omelette), Arroz Marinero (similar to paella) and a sumptuous dark chocolate mousse. You’ll leave with not just the recipes, but also the memories of a delightful little culinary adventure.

When not cooking yourself, indulge in the local gastronomy by dining out at the countless bars and restaurants that Seville has to offer. From savoury tapas dishes like Pescado Frito (fried fish) and Iberian Ham to the mouthwatering Torrijas (a Spanish twist on French toast), every meal is a delight.

Indulge your taste buds at Confiteria La Campana, where you can savour delectable ice cream and sweets, perfectly complemented by a cup of coffee or a refreshing beer at the bar.

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