The Lodger Issue 3 2019

ISSUE 3

THE LODGER ACTIVE ACTIVISM WITH PATAGONIA

TALKING FJALL RESPONSIBILITY THE LODGER INTERVIEWS

CHRISTIANE DOLVA TÖRNBERG

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IT’S ALL IN THE GAME THE LODGER’S REGIONAL TOUR

TALKING FJALL RESPONSIBILITY The Lodger Interviews

Fjällräven’s Sustainability Manager

Christiane Dolva Törnberg Swedish brand Fjällräven are acutely aware that everything they do has an impact on the environment around us and the people and animals that inhabit it.

With this in mind they do their utmost to keep their environmental footprint as small as possible and consider the impact on nature in everything they do. Our good friend Christiane Dolva Törnberg is in charge of sustainability at Fjällräven and so the Lodger decided to sit down with her for a chat to find out more….

TL: Readers of the Lodger may be aware of Fjällräven via the products that we sell at the Sporting Lodge but can you tell us about the origins of the brand and where it’s at today on a global scale?

CDT: As with most brilliant ideas, Fjällräven began on a very personal level with a young nature enthusiast called Åke Nordin. Based in Örnsköldsvik in Sweden he spent every spare moment in the forest. He decided to build better gear, starting with constructing a backpack with a wooden frame, and then moving on to other products. This was the start of the Fjällräven brand.

Today Fjällräven’s products are worn and appreciated by outdoor enthusiasts all around the world, and we still focus on making durable, functional and timeless outdoor equipment that inspire people to go outdoors and discover nature.

TL: How important is being an environmentally conscious brand for Fjällräven?

CDT: Nature is good for us. It’s not just experience that tells us this – research does too. Spending time in nature makes us both happier and healthier. And more importantly, it makes us want to love and respect it. Our mission is to inspire more people to take a walk with nature. Since nature is so central to us, it is only natural that we want to be part of keeping it in business forever.

We want Fjällräven to be the choice also for future generations and that they can enjoy nature the way we do. Being the best at outdoor equipment, in harmony with nature, means that we always want to identify more innovative and sustainable solutions.

TL: What kind of impact does outdoor clothing manufacture have on the environment in total?

CDT: Everything we make and develop has an impact on nature. It consists of raw materials that are extracted and processed, it is manufactured and transported, sold, worn and used, hopefully for a long time. So with that in mind, the impact from textile in general stems from the choice of raw material (virgin vs recycled, conventional vs organic etc.). Then the process of making materials are important, a process that often requires the use of water, chemicals and energy. Interestingly the userphase is also important when it comes to impact on the environment. How you care for the product, repair it, keep it alive for a long time, how you wash it etc.

TL: Do you find that people who spend more time outdoors tends to be more aware and interested about being environmentally responsible?

CDT: Yes, this is actually one of our main hypotheses when we focus on inspiring people to get out in nature.

We believe strongly that once you get out in nature, you also get more engaged in and involved in wanting to keep it alive and well.

TL: What steps are Fjällräven taking to be reduce their own environmental footsteps?

CDT: We work on this on all levels. For our direct impact, like energy usage and emissions from travels etc. we focus on choosing renewable energy, and finding ways to reduce traveling. A lot of our efforts are also directed towards our products footprint, so on material choice, strict chemical management, working with good conditions in our supply chain etc.

TL: What are the biggest obstacles to overcome when trying to make a brand as sustainable as possible?

CDT: It is easy to get lost in all the different details that we can work on. For us, the most important has been to keep focusing on making our products that can last for a long time, that are timeless and durable so we make the most out of the resources that are used in making the products. In that there is always challenges in picking the right material that is both more sustainable and also at the same time more durable and high quality. That balance is something we work with constantly. Also, the complexity of our products, that consist of a lot of different components, makes the supply chain control all the way back to raw material a challenge.

TL: How does Fjällräven approach responsible manufacturing?

CDT: Our main approach is that we have a few selected suppliers, and that we work with them for a long time.

That way we can have an ongoing dialogue, and work on continuous improvements. We work as any other brand with a strict code of conduct, we have close contact not only with the suppliers, but with the material suppliers.

We visit them often, they know our standards and are open with us and we can therefore work on improving all along.

TL: Are there any particular products that you are especially proud of in terms of their carbon footprint / ethical status?

CDT: In general I am proud of all our products, especially that they are so timeless and durable, and that we have a lot of people still wearing their products 20 years after they bought them, and we have people wearing their grandparents’ products that are still functional and looking the same. With regards to a complex supply

chain that I pointed out above, we are proud of the fact that we have traceable down from farm level with our Down Promise. We are also very proud that we were able to phase out the use of PFCs as chemical treatments in the fabric on waterproof garments with the EcoShell products as the best examples. The bag Re-Kånken is also special to us since we not only used only recycled polyester in the material, we also focused on the dyeing process, choosing SpinDye as a way of reducing our chemical, water and energy footprint.

TL: What can we as customers do in terms of improving sustainability and environmental issues?

CDT: There is actually a lot that can be done here. First of all, make sure you take care of the garment. Follow the wash instructions, and in most cases you can even wash it at a lower temperature, that saves a lot of energy.

Also, sometimes it is enough to air-dry and not wash the entire garment. Make sure you repair it if it breaks, a longer life is a better use of the total footprint. If you grow tired of a product, why not try to sell it secondhand or hand it down to someone else so it can have a second, third or fourth life.

TL: If there is one singular message that Fjällräven would like to say to the world in regards to environmental / sustainability issues what would it be?

CDT: Make it last – ensure that you invest in a product that is durable and timeless, that you can enjoy out in nature for a long time. That is the most important thing we can all do when it comes to sustainability.

THE INSIDE

EDGE

INNOVATION WITH EVERY GENERATION

SHOOT ME A LOOK Tradition is important, and in the sport of shooting there is an abundance of heritage. Popularised as early as the 16th century, notorious wife enthusiast Henry VIII is variously credited with the rise of hunting. In the modern day there are a few brands remaining in which the contemporary world of hunting can instil its trust.

FJÄLLRÄVEN Lappland Merino Henley Knit Dark Olive SEELAND Key-point Waistcoat Pine Green

BERETTA B-Wild Medium Cartridge Bag Green

BERETTA Prevail Ear Defenders Green

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BERETTA Heatdry Active Pants GTX Green

HARKILA Pro Hunter X Cap Lake Green

BLASER Hybrid 2-In-1 Breaker Jacket Moss Melange

JAMES PURDEY Vatersay Cape Jacket Khaki Green

HARKILA Lynx Insulated Reversible Jacket Willow Forest Green

FILSON Scoped Gun Case 48″ Tan

BERETTA Retriever Cartridge Belt 20 Loop 12g Rifle Green

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LE CHAMEAU Chameau-Lite 10″ Boot Marron

Crafted by the Masters Footwear brand Le Chameau has gone from humble beginnings in a Normandy workshop at the start of the last century to setting the industry standard for quality and innovation on a global scale. Popular amongst the fashion-conscious as well as outdoor professionals and sporting connoisseurs, all of their footwear is covered by a two-year warranty. It’s a genuine guarantee of quality aided by the fact that their master craftsmen or ‘Maître Bottier’ have to undertake an intensive nine months of training before qualifying.

In the manufacturing of each pair the Maître Bottier carefully stretches the rubber pieces over an aluminium boot last, gradually forming the famous Le Chameau shape. Once the shape has been created, it is then time to add the trims and all the small details that give each Le Chameau boot its premium quality. Once the boot has been constructed, it is ready for the final part of the process.

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The final part of creating the Le Chameau boot is the vulcanisation process. This is the ‘cooking’ of the rubber boot at the optimum temperature for the correct amount of time, until it becomes flexible and durable. Each style of boot requires different temperatures and timings, ensuring that each boot is of the required Le Chameau standard. Once the boot has cooled, each boot is tested in water to ensure it is fully waterproof. Before the boots leave the workshop, they must go through one final quality control check before a final polish and being wrapped and boxed ready to make their way to the Sporting Lodge.

Blasing A Trail Active pioneers in shooting, Blaser are a German brand driven by product innovation with over 60 years of experience in the field. With an uncompromising commitment towards quality and precision in hunting equipment, they are as passionate as they are dedicated towards design and development.

Always looking for new ways to adapt and improve, their tireless quest for perfection extends far beyond hunting rifles. From optics, ammunition and accessories to the latest in technical and functional hunting lifestyle apparel, their goal is to provide products perfectly in tune with their chosen activity.

Always pushing forwards, Blaser remain fully committed to improving performance in the field. Combining a myriad of functional elements to provide the shooter with the best chance of success in the field.

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BEST OF BRITISH In the late 19th century, Britain was a hive of innovation and industry. While much of the manufacturing industry has evolved into overseas ownership, that says a lot for the brands whose British heritage remains strong. The tradition which goes into these brands is unrivalled.

SUNSPEL Fairisle Crew Neck Knit Navy / Red / Grey

PARAMO Bentu Windproof Jacket Midnight

BARBOUR Wetheram Long Sleeve Check Shirt Graphite

TRICKER’S Stow Brogue Boot Dainite Sole Caramel Kudu

JAMES PURDEY 6oz Hand Stitched Leather Flask Tan

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MILLICAN Smith The Roll Pack 15L Slate

ALAN PAINE Rutland Tweed Waterproof Shooting Jacket Basil

JAMES PURDEY Technical Felgate Quilt Jacket Moss Green

BARBOUR Cookney Jacket Olive

MUSTO Fleece Lined Waterproof Cap Dark Moss

BRADY Ariel Small Trout Fishing Bag Hazelnut

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HUNTER Norris Field Adjustable Wellington Boot Vintage Green

All images © Brady

Best Of British Made In The Midlands BRADY Norfolk Khaki Bag

T he Black Country in the Midlands is the heart of an

England that may be slowly disappearing. With much of manufacturing now taking place overseas, Brady retain the values on which the brand was founded back in 1887. All bags are still manufactured in Walsall, just a stone’s throw from the Birmingham base John and Albert Brady began the brand from.

pocket for handy storage for your phone, wallet or even your passport.

Though Brady is known chiefly for its illustrious past, the chapters which are as yet unwritten look equally interesting.

Initially servicing the shooting trade with leather gun cases, Brady evolved into making fishing and game bags and through longevity, expertise and quality, it remains a name steeped in the English outdoors.

Captain’s Holdall Chestnut Leather

Though the Brady family eventually passed the brand on in 1993, it was taken under the wing of someone who would harness the spirit of the story and evolve it further. As many traditional British brands shifted manufacturing overseas, Brady remained in the West Midlands, relocating this time to Halesowen. Production was integrated into the Jeffries Saddlery which – if you’ll pardon the pun – harnesses the skills synonymous with the leather industry.

The new chapter for Brady involved the introduction of new bag styles which remained faithful to the aesthetic established by the brand over a century earlier.

To this day every Brady bag is made by hand in their factory. While keeping things close to home applies to the construction of each bag, Brady are not shy of embracing the best materials from elsewhere in the world. The finest Drill Canvas is sourced from Italy while Harris Tweed can only come from North of the Border in Scotland. Leather comes from closer to home, while each piece of furniture which is added is considered and of lasting quality, whether made from solid brass, natural rubber or military grade cotton webbing. Each Brady Bag is constructed by a team with approaching 700 years of combined experience, and that goes for the established styles as well as new introductions. The new Norfolk bag is a reduced size version of their classic fishing bag. It features all the hallmarks of traditional Brady quality but with an eye on the everyday carry, with a back

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Avon Olive Green Bag

Spruce Netted Shopper Bag

Coats to Coast

All images © Barbour

The great outdoors is Barbour’s bread and butter. Though fields and forests are synonymous with the brand, from the very beginning, the Barbour story has had a maritime influence. John Barbour set up his first store in South Shields in the North East of England in 1894 providing garments for sailors, fishermen, rivermen and dockers to protect them from the worst of the North Sea weather. Barbour is steeped in coastal cool.

The Barbour Coastal collection casts their seafaring heritage in a contemporary setting. The collection is an amalgamation of Barbour’s history and location, along the North East Coast.

And while the Coastal collection is inspired by the activities on the edge of land, the Barbour Nautical Collection is strongly linked to Barbour’s heritage on the seas. Originally, Barbour designed clothes which would withstand the harsh conditions of the North Sea. In the modern day this ethos has evolved into a stylish and very wearable collection which is inspired by this rich maritime heritage.

It says a lot about the Barbour DNA that the clothing which helped cement its reputation more than 120 years ago continues to inform their evolution today.

THE GREAT OUTDOORS 1 in 6 adults in the UK regularly indulge in some sort of outdoor pursuits, whether it be a gentle stroll to exercise the dog or something more strenuous in testing conditions. No matter what the activity, it’s important to choose the right tools for the job. Clothing-wise there are a number of tried and tested brands out there.

SUNSPEL Cable Crew Neck Knit Archive White

FILSON Beartooth Jac Shirt Dark Brown Charcoal

FJÄLLRÄVEN Greenland Jeans Regular Dusk

BLASER Hybrid Vest Olive

HESTRA Hestra Deerskin Primaloft Rib Gloves - Cork

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FJÄLLRÄVEN No. 21 Large Backpack Dark Olive

PARAMO Halcon Jacket Moss

HAGLOFS L.I.M. Proof Multi Jacket Aubergine / Tarn Blue

PATAGONIA Retro Pile Fleece Jacket Sediment

LE CHAMEAU Chasseur Cuir Prestige Vert Vierzon

FJÄLLRÄVEN Nordic Heater Hat Dark Navy

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ZAMBERLAN New Highland Goretex Boots Waxed Brown

ACTIVE

ACTIVISM Legendary outdoor brand Patagonia started off life as a small company making bespoke tools for climbers.

Though now a worldwide business, alpinism still remains at their heart and they still makes clothes for climbing – as well as for skiing, snowboarding, surfing, fly fishing, paddling and trail running. All of these are silent sports, none of them require a motor or deliver the cheers of a crowd. Instead, each sport provides a reward in the form of hard-won grace and moments of clarity and connection between participant and nature.

These values reflect those of a business started by a band of climbers and surfers, and the minimalist style they promoted. The same approach Patagonia continues to take towards product design demonstrates their bias for simplicity and utility.

Keen to practice rather than preach, Patagonia’s love of wild and beautiful places ensures their participation in the fight to save them, and to help reverse the steep decline in the overall environmental health of the planet. They donate their time and services with at least 1% of their sales going to hundreds of grassroots environmental groups all over the world who are also working to help reverse the tide. Aware that their business activity – from lighting stores to dyeing shirts – creates pollution as a by - product Patagonia work steadily to reduce any unnecessary harm. Many of the Patagonia products stocked at the Sporting Lodge this season provide perfect examples of this refreshingly responsible approach to apparel:

The production of wool requires vast amounts of land for grazing the sheep. In addition to this, wool production also demands energy, water and chemicals to convert the wool from fleece shorn off the sheep into clean fiber of consistent quality, and then into beautifully dyed wool products. One way to lessen the impact of wool production is to recycle used wool, a practice that actually dates back hundreds of years. After wool sweaters had been worn threadbare, they were collected and shredded into individual fibers and then converted into blankets. Patagonia recycled wool uses this exact same process. Aided by modern-day quality controls, the wool goes through a meticulous sorting of materials into colour categories prior to shredding. By selecting and blending colours of dyed wool fabrics and garments, they can completely eliminate the dyeing process, saving water and chemicals and eliminating the resulting wastewater.

Whilst Patagonia Denim uses only 100% organic cotton grown without GMO seeds, synthetic fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides. An innovative dyeing process enables them to dramatically reduce the use of water, energy and chemicals to produce less carbon dioxide compared to conventional denim dyeing processes.

Alongside their denim, Patagonia’s signature fleece products are all Fair Trade Certified® for sewing. Partnering up with Fair Trade USA the aim is to ensure garment workers get closer to a living wage. This means that for each piece of Fair Trade Certified clothing, they pay a premium that workers can use to improve their communities and elevate their standard of living. The workers get to choose how to use the money and may opt to build a school or a health center, create a scholarship or just take it as a handy bonus.

Patagonia is a company who refuse to never knowingly make a mediocre product or turn their back on the current state of the environment. Two reasons why Patagonia are one of the leading lights in the outdoor world whose products are worn and loved around the world.

Image © Jeremy Koreski

WADE IN Depending on whose research you place your trust in, the number of UK citizens who indulge in some sort of regular fishing activity can reliably be estimated at around 3m. This probably makes it the biggest participation sport around. It’s no surprise then that brands like Patagonia are at the forefront of fishing clothing and apparel.

PATAGONIA Sweet Pack Vest 28L Forge Grey

PATAGONIA Minimalist Wading Fishing Jacket Forge Grey

PATAGONIA Snap Dry Fishing Shirt Nomad Green

PATAGONIA Middle Fork Packable Waders Regular Hex Grey

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All images © Red Wing

EARNING YOUR WINGS Red Wing Shoes has long since been a brand of choice for those looking for a sturdy leather shoe, whether that be on a Midwestern farm in 1918 or a branch of Costa in 2018.

Named after the company’s hometown of Red Wing, Minnesota, the company was founded in 1905 with the vision of founder, Charles Beckman. Beckman wished to provide workers in industries like mining, farming, and logging with a tough wearing but comfortable shoe.

Like many of the long-running brand stories, Red Wing started out modestly but their eye for quality and detail

quickly led to an increased demand for their products.

This led to natural expansion into additional industries.

In the modern day, the styles we tend to favour have their roots in a golden 50 year period of innovation between 1920-1970. This was a time of real growth for Red Wing, despite the interruption of World War II. The 9111 and 877/875 models are probably one of the most recognized shoes from the Red Wing collection.

They were first conceived for farmers and hunters which necessitated a sturdy construction and a strong sole.

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Red Wing is one of many brands which have redefined their reason for being in contemporary times. While their outdoor heritage still stands up for those who want an iconic shoe on their feet when they step outside, a legion of new appreciators have taken the brand to heart.

Many items of clothing and footwear built for hard work more than 100 years ago have evolved, whereas some haven’t had to evolve much at all. In these days of smart phones and hot-desking, Red Wing has become a brand of choice for style-obsessed city creatives.

Red Wing Boots were built for working and if that means sitting in a coffee shop with a MacBook rather than driving a tractor, it shows the longevity and timeless design of Red Wing Boots. Here’s to another century!

BAG YOURSELF THE BEST The origins of Filson can be traced back to 1897 where this iconic American brand started life by supplying workwear to swathes of workers during the Alaskan Gold Rush before later turning their attention to supplying apparel for the forestry industry in Seattle. Thanks to the rugged landscape and demanding nature of their early customers, Filson garments and accessories are now recognised across the world for being particularly strong and protective. Made using the best quality materials, the craftsmanship that goes into each of their garments and bags ensures they will last and look good for a long time to come. The tough cotton canvas and twill construction of Filson bags are also a popular choice due to their incredible strength, durability and practicality. Once you own a Filson product you’ll understand why their motto is “Filson - Might as well have the best.”

FILSON x MOSSY OAK Camo Tin Cloth Wildfowl Hat Shadow Grass

FILSON Dry Backpack Green

FILSON

FILSON

5-Panel Wool Cap Red / Black Plaid

Dryden Briefcase Whiskey

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Words : TSL

It’s All In The Game

As it’s Game season, the Lodger has been on a regional quick tour to find the best places to hang up our wax jackets and sit down for some sumptuous seasonal fare. So read onto discover some of the favourite places around for tucking into a quality bit of quarry....

Fischer’s Baslow Hall, Derbyshire Served on hand-thrown pottery plates made individually for them in nearby Baslow and Sheffield, Fischer’s cuisine is rooted in classical French tradition and uses ingredients to produce exciting, innovative effects and flavours. As well as learning how to taste wine, fly fish or forage for food, guests can also book a seat on the Kitchen Tasting Bench for the ultimate front-row seat of a busy, professional working kitchen. Situated in the centre of their new bespoke kitchen, diners get to observe the chefs up close and personal as they create their award winning dishes. As a recommendation we’d suggest trying the game pie or the wild saddle of venison, though if you’re sat that close to the chefs you may as well ask them yourselves!

Restaurant Sat Bains, Nottinghamshire A keen shot, Derbyshire-born Sat Bains brings his unique love of flavour to the dishes at his eponymously titled Nottingham restaurant. Providing a broad range of ingredients in its menus and incorporating each of the five ‘tastes’, their seasonal game is sourced from the finest estates across the country. Sat’s favourite dishes will usually involve wild hare in one form or another and he’s very kindly contributed his recipe for his incredible Hare Black pudding for this issue (see below). It’s well worth having a go at, though perhaps once you’ve first sampled it as cooked by the great man himself.

Sat Bains Hare black pudding recipe 250g fresh hare blood 125g diced back fat 100g chopped onions 50g porridge oats soaked in dark brown ale 10g mixed spice 125ml double cream Salt and pepper to taste Sweat off the back fat in a heavy bottomed pan.

Add the onions and cook for 4 minutes with no colour, add the spices and cook for a further 2 minutes.

Remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Add to the blood followed by the oatmeal, cream and seasoning.

Leave overnight to set.

Roll into cylinders using clingfilm and tie the ends with butcher’s string.

Place in a pan of simmering water and cook for 20 minutes.

Leave to chill then slice and brown in a pan with a little oil.

The Whitebrook, Monmouthshire Set within the peaceful surroundings of the Wye valley, every dish at The Whitebrook, from breakfast through to dinner boasts locally sourced ingredients, many of which are foraged within a short distance from the restaurant. Owner of a Michelin star thanks to talented Chef Chris Harrod, the restaurant is also a stone’s throw from Chepstow racecourse for those who like a flutter. After a hard day’s betting we heartily recommend the squab pigeon with forced rhubarb accompanied by a glass of Welsh Pinot Noir from the nearby Ancre Hill estate.

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The Sutton Gamekeeper, Cheshire Recently recognised as ‘the best pub in the North’ by the Country Alliance, the Gamekeeper stays true to its Cheshire roots, sourcing local ingredients alongside game the landlord James has shot, himself. With candle-lit tables and a roaring open fire, the welcoming atmosphere is matched by the quality of the food.

We heartily recommend their rabbit scotch egg washed down with a refreshing pint of Deer Beer from the nearby Dunham Massey brewery.

The Churchill Arms, Cotswolds Situated in the village of Paxford in the heart of the Cotswolds, the Churchill Arms is home to world class chef Nick Deverell Smith who learnt his trade under the tutelage of our old pal Marco Pierre White. When not appearing on BBC’s Great British Menu or Saturday Kitchen, Nick can be found at the boutique pub cooking up signature dishes such as his exquisite venison loin with artichoke puree and vichy carrots in a honey glaze. When visiting, be sure to accompany your meal with a drop of their house-ale which is a light session ale that’s rather appropriately called ‘Winston’.

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A SAFE RAVEN

The UK’s first Fjallraven store in Manchester is reaching its first birthday and it’s a fitting time to remind everyone why the Arctic Fox is still the most wily and stylish animal out there.

Fjallraven began when its founder Åke Nordin was aged just 14. As a keen Hiker in the mountains of Västerbotten this intrepid, inquisitive teenager was not pleased with the design of his uncomfortable backpack. After doing some research, he learned that a pack’s weight should be positioned high and close to the wearer’s spine.

This problem solving approach was in a time when people built their own solutions. When Nordin completed his military service, this need for gear which was fit for purpose became all the more evident.

Following this, the seeds for Fjällräven were sown. Nordin’s untimely passing in 2013 came at a time when the brand had begun to be appreciated outside those who hiked and hunted.

Today, the Fjällräven Manchester store is just one solid piece of evidence that when a brand gets it right, it’s here to stay. It’s a brand you can truly rely on, a Safe Raven, if you will.

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Visit the Fjällräven Manchester store to see the new collections of Men’s, Women’s and Kids, clothing and accessories and the fantastic range of Hanwag footwear and Primus outdoor accessories.

15-17 Old Bank Street Manchester M2 7PE.

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