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BEHIND THE BAR

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SMALL FRY

SMALL FRY

with Natalie Buettner Behind the Bar

Discussing the details of a life behind bars with one of the borough’s best-known faces.

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How long have you been a Split Rail? Since the day it opened — July 17, 2015

How’d you end up there? The original manager was a friend of mine who I knew from working at Congress Hall in Cape May. I was trying to get out of this business — I even had an application for Trader Joe’s ready to hand in — but I saw him out, and he offered me a job I couldn’t pass up.

And you have regrets about remaining in the industry? Absolutely not.

Why? I really enjoy customer service. It’s almost a leisure activity. Most of the time you’re waiting on people who are happy to be out and about.

Is there anything in particular about Split Rail that adds to that? I think we’ve found a niche in the community. West Chester was lacking a place for people who wanted to go out and still get that bar atmosphere without being surrounded by college kids.

Is it difficult to keep pace with all the new drafts and drinks? Yeah, it’s tough to keep up with the different breweries and what’s popular. Sometimes you even find that the customers are the ones educating you, which makes it fun.

It can’t be easy. I was nervous at first, despite being so outgoing. You feel you’re on stage back here, but the more comfortable you get, the easier it is.

What helped you get more comfortable? I love cooking, and when I realized making craft cocktails was a bit like cooking, a spark went off.

Have any favorite drinks? A staple on our menu, the Paper Plane, is fun to make, and it’s surprising for drinkers. It’s two Italian aperitifs — Aperol and Averna — with bourbon and lemon juice. Most people expect the flavors you’d get from something more like a Manhattan or an Old Fashioned, but it has a taste I’d describe as more like a lemonade-iced tea. We also

have three different gin drinks, one which changes seasonally depending on the available fruit. We use unique ingredients like kaffir lime, which is traditionally in Thai dishes. We pair that with elderflower tonic and strawberries and a London gin.

But it’s not just about the drinks here, right? Our chef, Justin, worked five years at Le Bec Fin — he’s extremely creative and talented. Along with sous chef Brian, they’re always coming up with fun specials that are easy to sell.

Do you enjoy giving suggestions on food and drink pairings? I’m always very excited when someone asks me to help decide how they enjoy their meal.

Gimme your go-to pairing right now. I’m often working brunch, so I recommend the shrimp and grits paired with our Bloody Mary. Once a week Sean Brown makes all of our syrups and bloody mix from scratch — keeping in theme with our scratch kitchen — and you can taste the difference.

photo ERIK WEBER @westchesterviews interview DAN MATHERS @thewcpress

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