OUTSKIRTS OF TOWN

On the Outskirts of Town

Four Dogs Tavern is a destination worth the drive

The borough of West Chester is so loaded with restaurants, shops, art, culture, and things to do that it’s tempting to dig in to the 1.8 square miles and simply stay put. But while it’s easy to rely solely on what’s at your fingertips, staying in the borough—and missing out on the deliciousness and general vibe of Four Dogs Tavern in the historic village of Marshallton—would be a big mistake.

In fact, the short trip—just four miles west—has all the makings for not just a visit, but a mini vacation. Along the picturesque and winding back roads of West Chester to a village steeped in history, a trip to Four Dogs Tavern is an easy drive, and just as easy an overnight getaway. With beer on the menu, a legendary Sunday brunch, and not one but two AirBnbs owned by David and Wendy Cox (David owns Four Dogs Tavern as well) within walking distance of it, there’s no reason to rush your visit. And please note: guests need to book the AirBnB in advance.

Whether you’re heading there for an overnight or just a few hours, a trip to Four Dogs Tavern is worth your time. I

arrived for my own visit a few minutes early for a scheduled interview with chef and owner David Cox, and I took the opportunity to go peeking around the front of the tavern, making my way upstairs to a second floor eating area with a wrought iron railing surrounding the stairs, giving guests a nice view of the historic building. When General Manager Jeff Rubin found me, I was literally murmuring to myself, “Soooo charming.”

While the food at Four Dogs Tavern is renowned—and we’ll get to that in a moment—the charm and history here really can’t be overstated. Back in the 1800s, when Strasburg Road was the main route between Pittsburgh and Philly, travelers would stop to dine at the Marshalton Inn, which incidentally, is still there and also owned by David Cox. [Editor’s note: we did not miss a typo here--the name of the inn was misspelled with one less “l” on the deed, and was never changed.]

The building that is now Four Dogs Tavern originally served as the property’s sta

Four Dogs offers an enormous patio for dining that is nothing short of fabulous.

bles, often full of cows, horses, sheep and pigs. Later, it served as a series of shops that were located in the original animal stalls. It wasn’t until 1978 that the building became a restaurant, and while it became Four Dogs Tavern in 1996, the structure still retains echoes of the past, with wide plank flooring, a layout that includes multiple rooms, exposed beams, and a giant fireplace in what is now the bar.

Lest you think the venue feels antiquated, think again. Instead, it’s a lively, bustling place full of character, with brightly written chalkboards announcing everything from happy hour to beers on tap; a cabinet of colorful Four Dogs Tavern t-shirts and sweatshirts for sale; and plenty of whimsical local artwork adorning the walls. Not to mention an enormous patio for dining that is nothing short of fabulous, with its own outdoor fireplace, bar, plenty of seating, and views that sometimes include fields of sunflowers.

Of course, a successful restaurant has to rely on more than a fun, historical and lively venue. Lucky for you—and anyone who heads to Four Dogs Tavern—Michelin Star-trained Chef David Cox is at the helm, creating mouth-watering and comforting American Brasserie fare seven days a week.

David became Chef and Owner of Four Dogs Tavern in 2006, but his history is a bit more involved than most restaurant owners. A graduate of the venerated culinary arts program at Johnson & Wales University, David spent years learning to master French cooking techniques with some of the best chefs in the world, working at many renowned five-star hotels in Hawaii, California, Florida, New Mexico, and Puerto Rico before becoming the Executive Sous Chef at the famed Waldorf-Astoria Hotel and the Executive Chef at Picholine and Artisanal in New York City.

It’s not every day a Manhattan chef takes on a small town restaurant, yet that’s exactly what David did when he returned to his native county—he grew up in West Chester—and Four Dogs Tavern, bringing

The structure still retains echoes of the past, with wide plank flooring, a layout that includes multiple rooms, exposed beams, and a giant fireplace in what is now the bar.

his extensive background in French cooking to the tiny village of Marshallton.

And while French staples like Wild Burgundy Snails in garlic butter ($12), Duck Terrine ($18), and a variety of cheese flights are definitely on the menu, so too are the things you’d find at any American tavern—chicken wings ($13), Caesar Salad ($12.50), a variety of flatbreads, and a Black Angus Burger with fries ($14.50)—done, of course, with a French flare.

“I would consider the menu to be French influenced and fundamentals that are geared to an American cuisine,” says David. “It has all the French theory in it, the background of good French cooking behind all the ingredients. I consider it American Brasserie.”

But what’s that mean for the average diner, who doesn’t necessarily recognize the place of origin of her Gruyere and Smoked Salmon sandwich ($16.50)?

What it means at Four Dogs Tavern is that everything—and we mean everything—is made carefully, from scratch, using the best ingredients available. And that French cooking inspires everything David creates.

Take, for example, the Rustic Nachos ($15.50). Instead of a plate of nachos that’s more messy pile than artful creation, with cheese on top and nowhere to be found at the bottom, the Rustic Nachos at Four Dogs Tavern is actually beautiful. Roasted and served on an elongated flat cedar board with cheese, pico de gallo and salsa verde, the made-for-the-table shared plate is as elegant as it is delicious.

David mentions some signature dishes that are literally drool-inducing, things like the Crispy Chicken with gruyere whipped polenta and spinach ($25), shucked Wellfleet Oysters ($8), and Charcuterie boards full of sliced meats, cheeses, fresh and dried fruits,

Need To Know Happy Hours... Monday to Friday, 4-6pm

What’s Happening... Sundays Brunch from 10:30am to 2pm Bloody Mary bar & weekly specials available Live Music 6:30-9:30pm Thursdays Live music 7-10pm Fridays Live music 7-10pm

Make a trip of it... Reserve one of their two AirBnBs

nuts, olives, bread and mustard ($49.50 for 2 to 3 people; $51.50 for 4 to 6 people). But he also keeps abreast of cooking and health trends, providing options for those with dietary restrictions.

For vegans, there’s a Super Salad ($13.50) with berries, raw nuts and nutritional yeast; Grilled Avocado ($11) with unrefined Utah salt and pea tendrils; Crock of Hummus ($14.50) served with flatbread and crudité; and an Artisanal Vegan Burger ($17.50) made with toasted walnut and Swiss chard.

For vegetarians, there’s the local favorite Grilled Margherita flatbread ($16), fondues, cheese plates, a variety of soups and salads, and Grilled Brie ($15.50) with a huckleberry gastrique and country toast that brings to mind just one word: Yum.

If you’re gluten free, get yourself a flatbread. Each flatbread serves one to two people and can be made gluten free. In addition to the Grilled Margherita, there’s a Buffalo Chicken Flatbread ($17.50) with blue cheese and celery leaf, a California Flatbread ($16) with Brie, avocado and roasted peppers, and several others.

Michelin Star-trained Chef David Cox creates mouthwatering and comforting American Brasserie fare

In addition to the lunch and dinner served seven days a week, Four Dogs Tavern has a popular Sunday brunch that includes Eggs Benedict ($12), and a Mushroom and Gruyere Omelette ($12), in addition to weekly specials.

Of course, no matter when you show up, you’ll need something to drink. If you hit the Sunday brunch, be sure to indulge in the Bloody Mary Bar. Each order includes a carafe of Bloody Marys, two glasses, and your own cedar plank full of everything you might need to garnish your drink, including celery, skewered olives, bacon, peppers, asparagus and more.

If beer is more your thing, you’re in luck at Four Dogs Tavern. In addition to 10 rotating craft beers on tap, the tavern features two constants: Guinness, and the Four Dogs Tavern Brew, made exclusively for them in collaboration with Stolen Sun Craft Brewing & Roasting Company. The 6% ABV IPA was recently released in 16-ounce cans in a partnership with LaMancha Animal Rescue of Chester County; each can features a picture and profile of a dog available for rescue at LaMancha, and a percentage of proceeds will be donated to the nonprofit.

On top of the partnership with LaMancha, David and Four Dogs Tavern are invested in the community in other ways, serving as the kickoff location for the Marshallton Triathlon; host location of the Marshallton Village Ghost Walk; and most recently, the host property of the Marshallton Village Heritage Center which, in addition to housing two bathrooms for when you’re waiting outside for your seat on the Four Dogs Tavern patio, tells the 250-year history of Marshallton Village and the Battle of Brandywine.

I left Four Dogs Tavern determined not just to come back, but to make an overnight trip of it. While it’s absolutely accessible for a late afternoon lunch or dinner, there’s too much charm, history, beauty, and frankly, food, for me to hurry through Four Dogs Tavern and Marshallton Village.

Form & Function

Exploring the design concepts of our borough’s best kitchens and dining spaces

Opa Taverna will be celebrating their one-year anniversary this month at their location on the corner of Gay and Walnut Streets. If you haven’t taken the opportunity to step inside, be prepared to be amazed by the transformation. What used to house the wine bar Kreutz Creek Vineyards is now a Greek restaurant that is both tasty and tastefully renovated.

Owner Konstantinos “Kosta” Botos explained why the renovation process at his place is unique. When searching for a designer, he looked no further than his own family and talented cousin Litsa Bottos of Design Corner in Athens. Walking into this eatery instantly transports you to the Mediterranean. All the materials are directly from Greece, from the lighting to the tile work. Kosta didn’t want the

traditional blue and white decor associated with Greece. The space is filled with harmonious natural elements that lend a more refined design, almost like you are eating amongst the ancient ruins. The stone walls, woven light fixtures, beautiful wood bar countertops, and geometric tile work on the bar are equally subtle and stunning. The comfortable seating areas include a social bar space, plenty of tables for small and large groups, and cozy booths. This is a spot where you can have a conversation with little interruption.

The place next door is also Kosta’s, and serves double duty as their busy kitchen and food pickup area, keeping the restaurant side a quieter, more secluded experience. Kosta wanted this to be a place for anyone and everyone; during lunch you’ll find both the professional business crowd and local students eating here, and at night it’s a romantic night out, a girls night out, or a family night out spot.

Kosta’s favorite part about the design? The doors that open out to the streets! When the weather is warm, the doors on both Gay and Walnut Streets open, with the fresh air pouring in and the smell of Greek delights pouring out. Outdoor seating lines Gay Street for as magical an ambiance outside as inside.

Greek music contributes to the idyllic atmosphere and the charming interior. And it’s no surprise after looking at their rave reviews that this place has amazing food. Begin with one of their delectable starters, like the spanakopita or the mouth-watering octopus. Then dive into a number of their popular meat platters, like their perfectly cooked pork chops, or try a traditional moussaka plate. Kosta’s personal favorite? The tsipoura, a baked, herbed fish dish. Finish the meal with their seemingly endless Greek dessert options, and you can pair your plate with the perfect Greek wine or beer.

Make it a point to transport yourself to a real Mediterranean experience at Opa Taverna’s lovely surroundings by indulging in one of their classic dishes while sipping an Ouzo. The friendly people, fabulous food, and fresh decor will make it a place to keep coming back.

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