The Yak #43

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WI W AO BA B A SW A .BBAI LAIS. C ML I . C O M B A L II SSEEM MIINNYYAAKK -- SSAANNUURR- -UU BB UU D D| J| AJKAAKRATRAT A K EKMEAMNAGN G





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coming to a venue near you this september Celebrating a decade of decadent, dedicated, definitive, deluxe design The Yak Magazine 2004 - 2014 Dress code: Denim could probably be de rigeur.

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Volume Forty-THREE JUNE/JULY/AUGUST 2014 The Yak Magazine Sophie Digby, Agustina Ardie, Nigel Simmonds Publisher's PA Indrie Raranta Creative Director Stuart Sullivan Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Ida Bagus Adi Accounting Julia Rulianti Associate Publisher James Watling Distribution Made Marjana, Putu Widi Susanto, Gede Swastika, Untoro, Didakus Nuba Publisher PT Luxury In Print Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011 Advertising Enquiries Tel: (+62 361) 766 539, 743 1804, 743 1805

olya wears dress by Jaime Lee Major. styling: The ö. Photographer: Kenza Le Bas. hair and makeup: juno.

www.theyakmag.com e: info@theyakmag.com, sales@theyakmag.com The Yak Magazine, Kompleks Perkantoran Simpang Siur Square, Jl. Setia Budi, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia

OK you know the drill. No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher. Opinions expressed within this publication are those of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to refuse advertising that does not comply with the magazine's design criteria. The Yak will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors.

© PT Luxury In Print

The Yak Magazine Bali.

min

The Yak’s monthly e-newsletter is sent to 10,000 mailboxes every month.

Archives, additional content and more at www.theyakmag.com

yPodBali Version 2.2 – The Yak's iPhone App – is available from the App Store.


INT.

BALI - CHARLIE BAR & BISTRO - EVENING

Scenesters, hipsters, pretty things young and old mingle about. A buzzy hedonistic energy surrounds the lounge upstairs where Charlie and his date Sally are sharing a bottle of wine and an array of exquisite dishes specially prepared by the Chef. As Charlie takes a bite from his plate, a symphony of colors and shapes appear to accompany its unique flavor. CHARLIE (V.O.) Simple, light. Amazing... Pure poetry. CHARLIE Sooo delicious...! You should try it– (he leans over and feeds Sally a biteful) SALLY

Oh...ooooh...oh God...! (touches her face and hair in ecstasy) YES! YESSS! YEEEESSSSS! (slamming her hands on the table) Charlie grins, nodding in agreement. An older woman notices Sally’s pleasure. OLDER WOMAN (to waiter) I’ll have what she’s having. TO BE CONTINUED...

CHARLIE BAR & BISTRO / JL PETITENGET 5, SEMINYAK / 0821 47417332 / CHARLIEBALI.COM




contents 40 42

Yakety yak

Sapiosexual 15 minutes

Caught Behind

46

Check it

48

Giving Back

52

Goodies

dates with destiny

out of the box

Planet Yak

68

High Seas

new in the hood

destinations

88 30

Sweet Jane

76

Jonny Cota

78 80

one world

58

72

interwho

interwho

interwho

Super Natural interwho

Athron

82 88

Pintor

92

Close Shaves

interwho

Bruno artsake

feature

92

106

yak fashion

Angels Fear to Tread

112

All The Pretty Things

116

Golf To The Fore

bling

feature

126

La Finca

130

Kayu Putih

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

132

Dining By Design

134

Jenja

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

138

116


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contents P: 98 Omnibus: the book of om - a love story

136

oral pleasures

Merah Putih

138

Urchin

140

Zibiru

142

CCC

144

Big Six

146

Charlie Whiskey Tango

148

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

constant wining

constant wining

Single Minded

56 34

150

Java Jive

152

U Pasha, C151, Grand Nikko

158

The House That Built Palmer

162

Waka Love

166

Play Pads

170

Kayumanis

172

Nirwana

interview

venting in a villa

into the interior

venting in a villa

venting in a villa

spas

spas

74

174

Shinto

176

Client Clobber

188

Rave Reviews

190

Ones To Watch

192

Star Turns

194

What's What

196

Michal Tyles

62

spas

fashion freestyle

music

film

astro yak

advertiser's directory

last word

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yakback It’s official: we at The Yak are sapiosexuals. We find intelligence a most attractive sexual feature. As an inspired sapiosexual put it: "I want an incisive, inquisitive, insightful, irreverent mind. I want someone for whom philosophical discussion is foreplay. I want someone who sometimes makes me go ‘ouch’ due to their wit and evil sense of humour. I want someone that I can reach out and touch randomly. I want someone I can cuddle with. I decided all that means that I am sapiosexual." We couldn’t agree more… Breaxx Baxx (as posted on the Urban Dictionary) put it beautifully: Traditionally [it is] the attraction to intelligence, however it can also be extended to the attraction of proper, full sentences and the use of grammar. That said we at The Yak do sapiosexuality very well. We have a fabulous team of sapiosexuals that strive to gift you insightful pleasure, not just in the power of the word mind you, but also in the visual foreplay, the capture of images and the creation of design. In fact one can say that Bali is a hotbed of this decade-old breed of ‘sexuals’. We are also 10 years old this year…funny that! So for starters in this issue, we take an inquisitive look at who is doing what on the charity front – check out our One World for reputable and worthy causes to donate to. We then head into our Out of The Box and New In The Hood where you can see and read about what venues and brands are leading the ‘who is who’ and the ‘what is what’ on Bali. Our insightful interviews question fashionistas, rock stars, warriors of the soul and artists Pinto Sirait and relative newcomer, and friend of The Yak, Arif Bahtiar - two of the most attractive sapios of them all. We then take an incisive view at Bali’s budding metrosexual salons and the rise of the wet shave in Cut Throat Biz, before The Yak’s very own top sapiosexual goes Omnibus on us all about love, meaning and women. Fashion, jewellery and golf balance out the ying and the yang of the masculine and feminine, before we send you AWOL into Bali’s myriad of Oral Pleasures, this level of dining is foreplay to our dabbling with one of the world’s best brown spirits - whiskey - which definitely brings out the philosophical in all of us. Attracted to architecture and style, Venting in a Villa is what we sapiosexuals tend to do when staying in Bali’s high-end, intelligently designed, private, luxury spaces, before we go and have a meditational word with ourselves at three of the island’s design and function led spas. Fashion freestyle drops the intensity a notch before our irreverent astro-sapiosexual, Dr Deepak gives it to us like it is. With a last word from the inspired Michal from One Eleven we wrap us this issue with six truly wise words, May The Yak be with you…

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Dear Yak, I have to say a great big thank you for the absolutely awesome review you did. I couldn't be any more happy or any more appreciative of that fantastic write-up. Even though I love to stay in the background you gave me goose bumps of joy as I read your article. I hope I can continue to please and keep Canvas moving in the right direction. Any time you come in here I'm at your mercy.

Dear Yak, Darlings congratulations . . . terrific edition (#42). Have just finished reading and am having my first glass of wine since Sunday . . . quite divine! Best regards, Kat V Bali Kat, it's Monday morning!

Best regards, Jason Partridge Townhouse Bali

Dear Yak, It was nice picking up a copy of the latest mag at Winehouse. Just a note to say the latest edition is sensational.

The pleasure was all ours! Dear Yak, Many thank yous for a great article about my life in the last edition of The Yak. Well written, beautifully photographed and the layout is superb . . . what can one say!

Best regards, Ian Monro Bali Thanks for the love.

Best regards, Robert Rosen Bali You da man Robert.

In The Lap Of: Selena Gomez Our man in Nepal recently had the task of following Selena Gomez around with a camera during her visit there. The former Beiber playmate is a Unicef ambassador for children around the world and has raised millions to promote education. Gomez, who has already done some time in rehab, is no stranger to the celeb life, but we are happy to report that contrary to typical opinion she is no airhead: smart, sexy and inquisitive, our chap tells us she is also extremely cool. Just so you know.


Have you been to Paris recently?

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15 Minutes

caught behind Paul W. eagerly anticipates pitching for a lucrative account before he gets bounced.

There was a time in my life when I loved the game of cricket with a passion. I played and was an ardent watcher of all forms of the sport until I realised that the bowlers seemed to be able to fling that cherry at increasingly frightening speeds. Ducking and weaving and not scoring many runs I eventually copped a ball straight to the head (sans helmet in those days) and thought, “that’s it, I’m done”. At the time I ‘retired’ the Australians had a formidable team, spearheaded by Dennis Lillee and behind the stumps the grumpy Rodney Marsh, who had the ability to completely decimate any batting side. There was a memorable match when the great Gary Sobers walked out to bat in Perth and noticed that the slip cordon stood over 35 meters back from the batsman. When he asked why, Marsh cheerfully replied, “ You’ll find out in about two minutes mate.” And yes, I tired of that repeated statistic – that one heard over and over again: caught Marsh, bowled Lillee. The Australian team was simply unstoppable! They were adroit in knocking over England, South Africa, India and even the mighty West Indies with apparent ease. Even the mighty master blaster, Sir Vivien Richards admitted to being able to say the Lord’s Prayer twice as he watched the lanky form of Lillee, shirt unbuttoned to the waist, hair flowing in the breeze with that terrible ‘droopy’ mustache thunder in from the boundary intent on knocking his block off. Many years later Australia inadvertently became my home after being transferred there by a multi-national advertising company. The national cricket side at that time was a little tamer without Lillee and Marsh, who had long since retired, and no longer conquered all before them and I once again rekindled my love of the game. The agency I worked for was big, bold and brash and seemed to win major accounts at will and at one point I was dispatched to Perth to

42

meet with a major new client. The client in question was one of the largest carpet manufacturers and distributors in the country and had a huge media budget. Their advertising creative, though, absolutely sucked and I used to cringe every time I heard the dreaded jingle on radio and television. The long-running television commercial was cheesy in the extreme showing enthusiastic carpet layers resurfacing a room while an adoring ‘housewife’ looked on. The last ten seconds was taken up by some random, bald, tall guy with a really bad droopy mustache who would enter stage right, sit down on the sofa and say to camera: “Give us a call and we’ll be there in a flash to give you a quote.” He would then lean back with a self-satisfied grin while the logo came up and that irritating jingle began: “Call, call carpet call, the experts in the trade.” Our first meeting with the carpet guys did not really go that well in fact it was an unmitigated disaster. Our smooth talking account director who had recently arrived from the U.K. announced that that their current campaign was dated, tired, cheesy, poorly executed and altogether crap. He ended his diatribe with the words: “And what’s with the tall bald dude with that dickhead mustache?” “ Oh,” said one of the product managers, “you mean this gentleman?” At that point in walked a tall, bald man with, yup, a really bad mustache. My head started to whirl as the face seemed oh so familiar and I tried to picture him 10 years younger with hair. The penny dropped and I now know how Viv Richards once felt as he was about to be sent back to the dressing room. “Please meet Dennis Lillee, famous cricketer and one of our directors.” We slunk home to Sydney sans the newly won account . . . cleanbowled first ball.


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Authentic Japanese Cuisine

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calendar

datesWITHDESTINY

Susan hu counts the days.

FIFA WORLD CUP 2014 The biggest footie event on the planet kicks off on June 12 in Brazil, and for an entire month, the hottest names in football will hash it out on the pitches in 12 different cities across the country. With a reported US$3.47 billion spent on stadium projects, brand new venues built specifically for the World Cup, and extensive renovations on existing venues, you can bet the fans will be out en masse to cheer on the victors, especially at The Estádio do Maracanã in Rio de Janeiro, which will stage the final deciding match on July 13.

BALI KITE FESTIVAL Every July, villagers from all corners of the island descend upon Sanur Beach with brightly hued kites, gamelan orchestras and flag bearers in tow for the annual Bali Kite Festival. During this lively time, the air is dotted with all manner of traditional and ‘new creation’ kites, and the beach is awash in kite flyers competing to have the best launch and longest flight. The festival also has a spiritual twist, as the kites are meant to send a message to the gods requesting a bounteous harvest for the coming year.

BALI INTERNATIONAL JAZZ SUMMER SCHOOL Open to all jazz students in Indonesia and the world, the Bali Jazz Summer School is a fun opportunity for kids to learn more about this soulful musical genre. Running in conjunction with the Ubud Village Jazz Festival, the music camp will be held from August 3 to August 8, and will be divided into six classes featuring guitar, drums, piano, double bass, brass and reed instruments and vocals. This year, the Ubud Village Jazz Festival has partnered with The Jazz Summer School in Korea. www.balijazzsummerschool.com

IF YOU’RE IN THE UK… June 23 to July 6 – Wimbledon: As the oldest and most prestigious tennis tournament in the world, it should come as no surprise that there are approximately four applicants for every ticket sold for the Wimbledon Championships. While the ballot for tickets is already closed, the All England Club does allow people to queue for one of thousands of seats allotted to last-minute purchasers on the day of the match. If you want to secure your spot to see contenders like Andy Murray and Roger Federer battle it out to defend their titles, it is highly advised to get their early and be prepared to camp out overnight.

IF YOU’RE IN AUSTRALIA… July 6 – Darwin Lions Beer Can Regatta (Darwin): Since 1974, Darwin’s resourceful beer swillers have been saving up their empty cans to create imaginative seacraft for the annual Beer Can Regatta. The boats come in all shapes and sizes; however, their seaworthiness is often a point of hilarity. Adding to the amusement, some contestants bring secret weapons such as water pistols to distract and take out the competition. Other events on the day include concerts, a kid’s race with boats constructed from soft drink cans, a thong-throwing contest and the Henley on Mindil boat-carrying regatta.

IF YOU’RE IN CANADA… June 20 to June 29 – WorldPride 2014 (Toronto): The fourth annual WorldPride festival will be held in Toronto this year, and will coincide with Toronto’s already spectacular annual Pride Week celebrations, which honour the strength and diversity of the LGBT community. This 10-day event will feature opening and closing ceremonies, an international human rights conference, live music events and performances, street fairs, drag and burlesque shows, and the famous Pride Parade that draws in an average of 100,000 spectators each year. You can bet that the collaboration between WorldPride and Pride Toronto is sure to make this the most fabulous and fun Pride Week yet.

June 27 to June 29 – Glastonbury Festival: Walking into the Glastonbury Festival is like stepping into a huge tented city where people of all ages and walks of life set up a range of socially diverse tent ‘neighbourhoods’ over 900 acres of rolling green hills. They come for the music, the performing arts and the good vibes, and they roam freely among the diverse stages and fields to take in killer live acts, crazy circus stunts, drum circles and impromptu dance sessions. This year, Arcade Fire will headline, joined by an eclectic collection of artists including Jack White, Jurassic 5, Lily Allen and Blondie. July 23 to August 3 – Commonwealth Games (Glasgow): Happening only once every four years, the Commonwealth Games will be held in Glasgow this summer, and the excitement levels are already rising. Tickets are still available on a first-come, first-served basis, so be sure to pick yours up soon to take in all the action of the opening and closing ceremonies, as well as riveting displays of athleticism at the badminton, basketball, boxing, rugby sevens, and weightlifting matches. For the budget conscious or those who simply miss out on securing a ticket, the marathon, road race and time-trial cycling are all free events. 46

July 12 – Lasseters Camel Cup (Alice Springs): The quirky Camel Cup returns again with its unpredictable and very headstrong camels and the brave and crazy riders who attempt to race them. Entertainment is assured with nine unique races scheduled around the dusty outback track throughout the day, and there will be plenty of action between the races like belly dancers, rickshaw races, hobby camel races, rides, Mr and Miss Camel Cup challenges, food stalls and bars. All proceeds from the day are distributed to local charities through the community grant scheme. July 25 to July 27 – Splendour in the Grass (Byron Bay): Winter in Australia is as good a time as any to celebrate, especially when it means rocking out to some of the world’s best musicians and up and coming local talents. Since its inception in 2001, this hip music festival has continued to pull in the crowds despite changing locations on more than a few occasions. This year, the event will be held at the North Byron Parklands, and the line-up features international and local superstars like Outcast, Foster the People, Kelis, Ben Howard and Two Door Cinema Club.

July 4 to July 13 – Calgary Stampede: Dust off that cowboy hat, pull on those chaps and embrace the spirit of the wild, wild west at the Calgary Stampede, Canada’s world famous celebration of rodeos, derbies, chuck wagon races, First Nations exhibits, agricultural fairs and parades. Besides watching all the riveting action like bull riding, steer wrestling, barrel racing and roping, visitors can also get the adrenalin pumping on exhilarating rides, take in cool concerts and sample some of the best western and international fare that the city has to offer. July 15 to August 15 – Fantasia International Film Festival (Montreal): Although it may sound Disney-esque, this film festival is anything but PG. Think horror, sci-fi, fantasy, kung-fu, anime, and all other hardcore genres, and you’ve got a pretty good idea of the cinematic line-up. This was the festival that featured the premieres of Shaun of the Dead, Ringu, and Inglorious Basterds to name a few, and it is renowned around the world for being one of the biggest and best genre film festivals in North America. In addition to fascinating films, the festival also features talks by special guests including directors, actors, animators, producers and writers.


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giving back

stephanie mee on caring about others.

Senang Hati Foundation PUTU Suriati knows first hand how isolating a physical disability can be. When she was very young, she contracted polio and lost the use of her legs. Growing up housebound, she depended on her family for everything from food to mobility. At one point, Suriati’s uncle taught her how to paint, so she could sell her paintings to tourists. Business was good up until the mid-1980s when competition drove down Suriati’s profits and left her once again dependent on those around her for physical and economic support. This all changed in 1989 when a woman named Judy Slatum gave her a wheelchair. With her newfound freedom, Suriati was able to get out and meet other women painters, with whom she eventually founded the Seniwati Gallery. Through exhibiting her work, Suriati began to meet other people who also had disabilities. She soon built up a network of people and they began organising visits, activities and excursions as a way to relieve the sense of isolation that so many felt. As the network grew they realised the need for a formal organisation. With the assistance of the Bali Hati Foundation, the Senang Hati Foundation was established as non-profit organisation. Senang Hati means “happy hearts” in Indonesian, and their main goal is to befriend and assist people in Bali with disabilities, many of whom are isolated and unsure of how to integrate into society. Senang Hati helps disabled people by providing assertiveness training to help develop self-confidence, technical assistance to achieve physical independence, and skills training to assist with economic independence. They also aim to increase awareness in the community about the rights of people with disabilities. The importance of such an organisation cannot be underestimated, as the situation for many disabled people in Bali and Indonesia can be dire. Some Balinese believe that a child who is born disabled suffers from bad karma and is being punished in this life for bad actions in a past life. Thus, many disabled children are considered a disgrace to their family and hidden away. Many do not go to school or receive proper medical care. In addition, government funding for people with handicaps is very limited. Senang Hati works with volunteers to provide social interaction and teach skills to disabled people, particularly in self-supporting activities like painting, woodwork and sewing. They also provide wheelchairs, housing, physical rehabilitation sessions, and language lessons and operate a home for disabled children named Senang Hati Places. 48

They are currently in need of many supplies including dry goods, produce, cleaning supplies, clothing and toiletries, and they desperately need funds to update their physio room for effective physical rehabilitation sessions. To assist, you can make a donation or visit their website and view their Wish List to see which items they are lacking. www.senanghatifoundation.weebly.com BARC WHEN Linda Buller first arrived in Bali in 1985, she was shocked to see the condition of so many dogs on the island. At that time there were no vets, no clinics, no vaccines and no help for the animals. Sick and injured dogs were left to roam the streets, and people would openly take their aggressions out on the animals. Linda left with the feeling that she had to do something, but she wasn’t quite sure what. It took her some time to return to the island, but when she did, she knew the time had come to take action. “I didn’t physically go out looking for dogs,” Linda says. “It was like they were in front of me everywhere – they would place themselves in front of my motorbike or house. Almost as if they were saying ‘hey, here I am, take me home’. As Linda began to accumulate one dog after another, she quickly realised that her house was simply not big enough to hold all her furry friends. This prompted her to find a space that would function as a rehabilitation centre for dogs and other injured and destitute animals. She eventually found an abandoned gallery just outside of Ubud that fit the bill perfectly. Ebony Owens soon joined her in her efforts, and with the introduction of a dog sponsorship programme, the Bali Dog Adoption and Rehabilitation Centre (BARC) was born. Since 2006, BARC has helped save thousands of street dogs from suffering, starvation, abuse and neglect. They have implemented vaccination and sterilisation services, education programmes in the local community, an adoption campaign and online sponsorship options. They also operate the Charity Shop that raises money for BARC and selected children’s charities in Bali. For those who would like to lend a paw to Bali’s street dogs, there are many ways to help out BARC. Donations are always welcome in the form of funds, food, medical supplies, and second-hand goods for the Charity Shop. In addition, you can sponsor a dog online, foster or adopt a fur baby, or volunteer your time and skills at the clinic or rehabilitation centre. www.balidogrefuge.com

Safe Childhoods Foundation BEING the tropical island paradise that it is, Bali is a top destination for travellers from around the world. Yet some of those travellers come with more than just sun, sea and sand in mind. In recent years there has been a huge surge of registered child sex offenders making their way to Bali and other destinations in Indonesia. At the same time, online child sexual abuse is on the rise, as is child trafficking for forced labour, the sex trade and organ harvesting. While the government is doing everything they can to prevent this from happening, thousands of young people are still vulnerable, traumatised and at risk. The Safe Childhoods Foundation is a non-governmental organisation that aims to combat crimes against children in Indonesia including but not limited to child trafficking, child sexual abuse and online child sexual abuse. The organisation was founded in 2008 by Natalia Perry who has dedicated over a decade of her life to supporting abused children. Together with local and international law enforcement agencies, ministers, local and international NGOs, the private sector, media and general public, Natalia and her team work tirelessly to support effective long-term change so that every child gets the safe childhood they deserve. Through a range of programmes, the Safe Childhoods Foundation raises awareness about the issues of child trafficking and abuse, and protects and supports children who are or have been in desperate situations. Their efforts include a school for street children in Sulawesi, training and employment for mothers of street children, Child Safe Workshops in schools, businesses and at-risk communities, and media campaigns in hotels, airports and in-flight magazines. Currently, the organisation is working on building Indonesia’s first ever safe house for children rescued from the sex industry and trafficking rings. This sanctuary will function as a refuge and therapeutic centre for children and will be hidden in a rural location. There are many ways you can help give children back their childhoods with the Safe Childhoods Foundation. Volunteering from home is an option with the fundraising and awareness pack from the organisation. Safe Childhoods Foundation also accepts a limited number of volunteers to work with them in Indonesia, particularly people who have relevant skills. www.safechildhoods.org




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SUNSET BEATS AT EL KABRON Not too many places can rival El Kabron for incredible views over the Indian Ocean, tasty Spanish fare, and a sophisticated yet relaxed vibe. This summer, the clifftop restaurant is kicking things up a notch with weekly DJ performances every Thursday from 4pm to 7pm. Grab a seat on the al fresco terrace, kick back with a pitcher of sangria and some tapas, and soak up the scenery, sunset and sea breezes while DJ Adrian Giordano sets the mood with chilled out beats. Tel: 0361 780 3416

www.chiringuitoelkabron.com

VIN+ ART SPACE As if the stellar architecture, fine wines and sublime gourmet fare wasn’t enough to draw us back time and again to VIN+ Wine & Beyond, they are now adding arts and culture as a complement to their wine store, restaurant and lounge. To celebrate the start of the high season, VIN+ is launching an Art Space in their mezzanine with an inaugural exhibition featuring world-renowned artist Yaari Rom. His retrospective exhibition titled Building Bridges

SILVER LATITUDES Local grape gods and goddesses Sababay Winery have landed the Silver Award at the recent Wine & Spirit Asia Wine Challenge 2014. The competition was tough and the judging panel even tougher but the home team snagged the coveted Silver for their Moscato d’Bali, vintage from Muscat grapes grown locally. The Moscato d’Bali got the nod from the panel for their combination of fruit sweetness, moderate use of alcohol and sparkling sensations. Sababay wines can be found across Bali in leading restaurants and directly from their winery on Jl Sunset. Tepuk tangan! Tel: 0361 261104 www.sababaywinery.com Yak Map. C.10

SEMINYAK ITALIAN FOOD Seminyak Italian Food, located at the new five-star Double-Six Luxury Hotel in Seminyak is now open for business. Specialising in modern Italian food and designed and managed by famed Australian restaurateur Robert Marchetti, the restaurant is modelled on the successful Sydney restaurant North Bondi Italian Food, yet it has a distinct Balinese influence. Offering a drool-worthy array of classic Italian dishes, and an affordable wine list with bottles sourced exclusively from Italy, Seminyak Italian Food is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week. Tel: 0818 546 666 www.seminyakitalian.com Yak Map. Q.13

opens on June 19, and will run until September 11, 2014. Tel: 0361 473 2377

www.vinplus.biz

Yak Map. D.7 SUNDAY LOBSTER BRUNCH AT REGENT Leave it to Regent Bali to add a touch of decadence to the most delicious day of the week. Their newest Sunday brunch offering includes fresh oysters, salads, and made-to-order lobster dishes like grilled lobster with garlic butter and lime, lobster pasta, and lobster chorizo Spanish omelette, as well as a decadent dessert buffet and free-flow wine, beer and soft drinks. The brunch is priced at IDR 650,000++ per adult, and kids under 12 get privileged prices and free activities at the Sea Stars Kids Club. The doors open at noon, and reservations are highly recommended. Tel: 0361 301 1888 www.regenthotels.com/bali

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TIRTHA DINING Perched on the top of a cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean, Tirtha Dining is the ultimate romantic fine dining experience. The water theme design is contemporary and sleek with stunning water features and pools, floor to ceiling windows, silk fabrics highlighting the Japanese Edo era of dyeing culture, and an iconic floating bar of eight shadow boxes that change colours at intervals. Adjoining the restaurant is a two-tiered infinity pool surrounded by gardens and a Balinese gazebo with soft duvets and down pillows. Guests can choose gustatory delights from the a la carte menu, or put themselves in the capable hands of Chef Hiroyuki and sample his degustation menu of five, six or seven courses. Tel: 0361 847 1151 www.thirtadining.com



Wham Bam Glam on the Burjuman Pulau Luxury Charters glam Italian built 56ft motor yacht the Burjuman is ready to whisk you and your pals away for some high season high jinx aboard their private day cruises and sunset charters. Be spoilt for choice with a romantic Champagne and Canapé sail, a Private Chef’s Dinner cruise or a day of diving, fishing and snorkeling on the neighboring island of Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida. Spanking with sophisticated glamour, this mega yacht is a dream featuring a spacious fly bridge, airconditioned saloon and dining area as well as three luxurious staterooms with en-suites to play amongst. A comfortable aft-deck and bow are the perfect space to jump into the waters for a play on the underwater scooter, stand up paddle boards and giant inflatable mattress. The Burjuman can accommodate up to 10 guests per private charter. Grab your glam squad and book your perfect day out with Pulau. 0361 8476757 pulaudc@pulaugroup.co.id www.pulaugroup.co.id

BAMBOO BLONDE BATU BELIG Fans of Bamboo Blonde’s fun and funky fashions will be happy to know that this iconic Bali brand has opened a new concept store in the up and out there Batu Belig area. Keep an eye out as the new store is located opposite the famous Naughty Nuri’s restaurant, and it showcases must-have pieces from each clothing collection, accessories and their newly released homeware range. Definitely worth a visit next time you’re in the hood. Tel: 0361 847 5420 www.bambooblonde.com Yak Map. C.8 U.11 SIP TUCK Lunch at Seminyak bistro institution SIP is never a dull affair and there’s never a better excuse to pop a cork just north of the 12pm mark than when the price of a two course lunch frees up enough budget to indulge in that pricey vintage. The

VILLA KRESNA

All Day Snap Lunch Set at IDR 75,000 is a treat for all connoisseurs of classic French

Villa Kresna offers comfort and elegance at two separate locations in Seminyak within

cuisine or those that fancy a dabble at prices that are almost too good to be true.

walking distance to the beach and each other. Kresna Villas and Kresna Suites feature

We head straight to Table 10 for the Smoked Salmon Ravioli and Mahi Mahi a La

luxurious private living spaces with swimming pools, tropical gardens and plenty of peace

Basquasie. There’s also a La Carte offerings including probably the best Nicoise salad

and quiet just minutes from some of Bali’s best boutique shops, art galleries, cafes and

in town. Always a treat.

restaurants. In addition, the Straw Hut at Kresna Villas is a haven of fresh, unpretentious

Tel: 0361 730810/732513

www.sip-bali.com

Yak Map. U.13

food, fabulous cocktail promotions and live music every Wednesday and Friday. Tel: 0361 730 317

www.villakresna.com

Yak Map. P.9 BIASA CELEBRATES 20 YEARS Sunny Side Up @ potatohead Sunny Side Up Tropical Festival is the first annual music and cocktails festival brought to you by the PTT Family and Ismaya Live. The two-day event, featuring international acts from different musical genres and top mixologists from around the world will be held at the iconic Potato Head Beach Club in Seminyak. Some of the acts slated to perform are award-winning British sensation Ellie Goulding, breakthrough American artist Jessie Andrews, prolific producer and DJ RAC, remix master Goldroom, and critically acclaimed rapper Azealia Banks. For the full lineup and ticket information, visit sunnysideupfest.com. Tel: 0361 473 7977 reservation@ptthead.com Yak Map.O.5

To celebrate 20 years of inspiring resort-wear for women and men, Biasa founder Susanna Perini approached legendary Indonesian artist and photographer Davy Linggar and veteran Indonesian stylist Michael Pondaag to shoot the brand’s new advertising campaign. In keeping with Biasa’s ideology of using “real people” to communicate the brand’s ethos, the anniversary campaign showcases 20 of Bali’s Next Generation young, upand-coming entrepreneurs, artists and designers currently making creative waves in Bali and across Indonesia. The new campaign will roll out in the coming months, and the brand also plans to celebrate later in the year with a huge, happening and of course, stylish event hosted in Bali. Tel: 0361 730 308

www.biasabali.com

Yak Map. V.12



CP LOUNGE If you’re looking for some late night action in Ubud, CP Lounge is the place to be. Start the evening with tapas and cocktails on one of the sofas in the open-air lounge, and groove to live bands playing blues, rock, or reggae every night of the week starting from 9pm. After the bands sign off, the party continues outdoors in the lounge, as well as at the two billiard tables and inside the club with funky beats by the resident DJ, who keeps the dance floor grooving all night long. Tel: 0361 978 954 POINT YAMU BY COMO For those who can’t get enough of Como’s luxurious accommodation and unique wellness retreats, Point Yamu by Como is the company’s newest luxury resort located at the tip of Cape Yamu in Phuket overlooking the Andaman Sea and the dramatic limestone karsts of Phang Nga Bay. With gorgeous contemporary Thai interiors by Italian designer Paola Navone, cutting edge wellness facilities, two world-class restaurants serving Thai and Italian cuisine, and warm and efficient service, Point Yamu by Como is set to be our new go-to spot on jaunts to Phuket. Tel: +66 (2) 625 3322

www.comohotels.com/pointyamu

Bud Map. A.2

COCOON MEDICAL SPA WINS ACCOLADES After winning last year’s Yak Award for Bali Spa of the Year, Cocoon Medical Spa is still collecting accolades with another prestigious award from the World Luxury Spa Awards. Bali’s largest cosmetic and wellness centre has grabbed the title of Best Medical Spa in Asia, a feat that comes as no surprise considering that Cocoon Medical Spa is a combination of stunning architecture, internationally trained doctors, the latest medical equipment and technologies, and Australian management. Wellness and cosmetic treatments include Botox, skin tightening, detox and vitamin IV, and prices ring in at up to 80 per cent less than the same treatments in Australia and NZ. Tel: 0811 388 2240

www.cocoonmedicalspa.com

METIS LOUNGE When an award-winning venue like Metis Restaurant & Gallery announces that they have opened a unique and trendy lounge club on site, you best be scrambling to get there before the jet set descends en masse. The new Metis Lounge is located directly behind the restaurant overlooking a gorgeous lily pond garden, and it will serve up sultry cocktails, gourmet finger foods and top-notch entertainment line-ups that are sure to put this place on the international trend setting map. Tel: 0361 4737 888 62

www.metisbali.com

Yak Map. U.3

www.facebook.com/groups/CPlounge

Bud Map. N.7

POPSICOHOLS AT LUNA ROOF BAR Luna Roof Bar takes an old summer favourite and adds a fun twist with its Popsicohols, otherwise known as boozy popsicles. These tasty thirst quenchers are made with local fruit juice as the base, and are frozen and served with different alcoholic or non-alcoholic beverages. The L team suggests pairing the popsicles with different tipples to enhance the flavours of the drinks. For example, pair the orange popsicle with Campari, the watermelon with rum, or the passionfruit popsicle with sparkling water. Top off your unique drinking experience with delectable small bites, canapés or teppanyaki, while watching the sun set over the rice paddies. Tel: 0361 894 7898

HATTEN WINES WINS SILVER IN CANNES

www.thelhotels.com Yak Map. Q.B

www.hattenwines.com

When Hatten Wines entered their Jepun Spakling Rosé in the Le Mondial du Rosé in Cannes as part of their 20th anniversary celebrations, they were pleasantly surprised to see the wine surpass all expectations and win the silver medal at this prestigious French wine competition. “This is great news for Hatten Wines,” says IB Rai Budarsa, owner of Hatten Wines. “It means we make the méthode champenoise or traditional method with accuracy and with care. Our wine is made in Bali, by Balinese people, by hand. Not many wineries still make the traditional method by hand. Yet we have won a fantastic accolade by the Union of French Winemakers.” Tel: 0812 9364 5077 Yak Map. F.11

MELOMANE AT CHARLIE In quite a few languages including French, Italian and Russian, the word “melomane” means a passionate lover of music, even to the point of obsession. This summer Charlie is calling on all music addicts to come out and play at their weekly Melomane nights hosted by Andriesh, a DJ and music producer originally from Moscow, now a prominent part of the Pop Kids collective. He invites various artists and musicians to join him every Saturday night from 10pm onwards, and each week's line-up will be different with the only constant component being a love for the music. Tel: 0821 4741 7332

www.charliebali.com

Yak Map. U.3



RENEWING MASSAGE TREATMENTS AT THERMES MARINS BALI The award-winning Ayana Resort and Spa has launched exclusive new massage treatments developed by renowned Japanese orthopaedic and anti-aging expert, Tadashi Nakatsuji, to specifically target muscle issues and enhance skin elasticity. The Renewing range of massage treatments use The Nakatsuji Method, and the treatments start with a consultation with a specially trained Thermes Marins Bali therapist who will assess the desired areas of focus prior to the massage. Guests can opt to focus on the face or body, or experience the complete package with a 90-minute Renewing Anti-Ageing Body and Face Massage. Tel: 0361 702 222 HOTEL TUGU BALI For travellers tired of cookie cutter hotels, Hotel Tugu Bali is a truly out-of-the-ordinary experience. The 21-beachside villas and suites here are surrounded by tropical gardens and lotus ponds, and each features architecture, artworks and antiques that pay homage to the history and culture of Bali and Indonesia. Dining is just as distinctive, as guests can opt to dine wherever they like, whether it be in a hut hovering over a lotus pond, on the sand under the stars or in their own private villa next to the pool. In addition, instead of restaurants, the resort offers authentic dining experiences where the venue, atmosphere, cuisine, costumes and rituals differ depending on the chosen theme. Tel: 0361 473 1701 www.tuguhotels.com

Yak Map. O.1

THE LAYAR There’s nothing quite like The Layar, an iconic 23-villa estate set in a coveted residential area in the heart of uber-chic Seminyak, moments from Bali’s best restaurants, boutiques and sunset beach bars. Each designer villa offers generous living space that flows freely onto the pool deck and is defined by tapering, sail-like roofs. The villas offer from one to four bedrooms, all with glamorous bathrooms and views onto wide gardens. Guests have the choice of ordering room service, booking a chef for a barbecue alongside their private swimming pool, or self-catering in their fulls equipped kitchen. Tel: 0361 738 906

www.thelayar.com

www.ayanaresort.com

Becoming an Angel Now we are 12. This year’s “I’m An Angel”, held annually at the world famous Ku De Ta, celebrates 12 years of making a difference. And a massive one they have made to date – raising an astounding USD 625’000 over the years. This annual gala dinner brings together an eclectic mix of Bali and Asia-based entrepreneurs, foodies and charitable hearts. Supported by over 100 merchants and private donors, this event is all about coming together for an amazing evening of outstanding food of Chef Thompson - from Nahm – proportions, whilst raising much needed funds to support this worthy, much-loved Bali charity. Cooking alongside Chef Thompson will be our own onshore favourites, Ben Cross, Stephen Moore and our all-things-sweet, Pastry Chef Will Goldfarb. Waxing lyrical, we will be wowed by Dira Sugandi, who has won accolades throughout the jazz world as well as singing a duet with Jason – heartthrob - Mraz! The all-inclusive five-course meal (ie read free flow champagne, white and red wines that will accompany Chef Thomson’s award winning dishes) books out at Rupiah 3.5million a ticket. If you want to be seen at the best under-the-stars charity event this July then make a booking you must and make a difference you will. www.iaa@kedeta.net

Yak Map. N.8

Yak Map. O.5

GARDEN GOODNESS AT SHELTER Shelter is a welcome addition to the healthy eating scene in Seminyak, offering a chilled out rooftop garden and café overlooking a vast green football field. This charming escape offers nutritious home-style cooking including fresh salads, chutneys, pastries and gourmet sandwiches. Open for breakfast and lunch from 7:30am to 4pm daily, this is the perfect spot to relax and cool down

BE CHOCOLAT BY MICHEL CLEMENT

with a smoothie, iced espresso, or fruit

Be Chocolat is a chocoholics dream, with a full range of sinfully sweet products made

juice and sample health conscious dishes

from only the finest pure cocoa and natural ingredients. Every day the team here

made with organic ingredients.

whips up truffles, slabs of dark chocolate, mousses, fondues, lollipops, hot chocolate

Tel: 0361 904 1118

and more, all made by hand with high-quality cocoa sourced from global cocoa farms

www.shelterbali.com

with a commitment to sustainable farming and ethical treatment of workers. Tel: 0822 3741 4584

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www.facebook.com/bechocolat Yak Map. L.2


S M A L L B I T E S , B I G F L AV O U R S Luke Mangan is one of Australia’s leading chefs and restaurateurs and a shining example of Australia’s culinary culture. Now he’s growing that culture in Peppers Sentosa Seminyak, home to his latest restaurant, Salt tapas. Open daily for dinner from 6.00 pm For reservations call Peppers Sentosa Seminyak on (0361) 737 675

Jl. Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget, Seminyak - Bali 80361 Phone +62 361 737 675 Fax +62 361 737 111 e. info@salttapasbali.com • www.salttapasbali.com


Get thee to the beach We are totally enamoured of Beachgold’s latest mix n match fabrics. Their crochet and lace ‘get thee to the beach’ outfit has us pumping iron and juice fasting with the aim of getting our bods into fabulous shape for Ku De Ta’s and Potato Head’s long, full-on summer day parties. Kaftans, maxis, backless dresses and their wild poncho will get you into that VIP area quicker than you can say “mojito”. Jl. Laksmana 54. www.beachgoldbali.com

Yak Map. U.13

KARMA SPA

wretreatbali.com

www.karmaresorts.com

Yak Map. O.4

THREE-NIGHT HOLISTIC GETAWAYS Seeking a quick getaway that combines high-end medical spa treatments and holistic healing all in the privacy of your own private villa? Karma Spa has recently teamed up with world-class Cocoon Medical Spa to bring you a three-night programme that includes luxury pool villa accommodation, organic wellness cuisine and juices, daily healing massages and a spa voucher valued at USD400 that can be redeemed for treatments including Botox, dermal fillers, Cleopatra 24 karat Gold Facial packages, diamond microdermabrasion, no-needle Mesotherapy, Dermapen, PDT (LED Light Therapy) and vitamin IV therapy. Beautify and bliss out on your next beachside escape with Karma. Tel: 0361 849 8889

CLUBBED OUT New kid on the block Jenja has rolled back the curtain on one of the coolest club spaces on the island and it’s a total treat for clubbers and bar kids alike. Situated in the new Town House complex on Jl Nakula the upstairs bar plays host to a cool soul food kitchen space (with an Asian twist) whilst the downstairs club plays host to some of the coolest underground local DJ talent spinning every night until late. The weekend Deep House and Techno sets are not to be missed and have attracted the Seminyak movers and

Crowning Glory For all of you Divas that wear your invisible crown every day, Nagicia comes up trumps with her latest collection from her BF line (a.k.a. boyfriend line). Emeralds calm the troubled mind, enhance reason and wisdom and are, supposedly, lucky in love. Well, if someone buys you this (even if its you for yourself ) you are definitely lucky. Other Nagicia stand-out-of-the-box accessories are the handbags, clutches and organic, nature-designed pieces. Favourites have to be the conversation-stopping yet classic Sirsak leaf collection from the Bambu Laut line. Nagicia’s use of Asian symbols, dragons and infinity knots bring a bit of necessary Feng shui into your daily life. Stay Calm and buy jewellery. www.Nagicia.com

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It’s all going Pete Tong It’s so wrong that Pete is coming to Bali, it must be right! Venerated Dj, music producer, Radio host, music summit organiser and MBE appointee (Member of the Order of the British Empire 2014 New Year Honours for services in broadcasting and music) is set to leave us an indelible memory of how it really should be done. Holding our breath we are, as epic expectations for his unique Tong-style - electronica, Balearic beats, old school jungle and house music are only just keeping us from jumping up and down for joy like a pogo stick on Red Bull. It’s all going to go Pete Tong at Woo Bar at W Retreat & Spa Bali - Seminyak this long, hot summer. Catch the Sunday Sunset on the 8th of June starting 4pm, then the Late Night sesh on the 12th, starting 10pm.

shakers committee to venture just slightly south of ‘The Hood’ in search of some of the island’s hottest parties. Tel: 0361 8469077 www.jenjabali.com Yak Map: W.14

Vitality in Vietura Interconnecting aesthetic procedures, integrative medicine and lifestyle coaching, Bali’s newest Beauty Destination opened recently in Sofitel, in Nusa Dua. Time to book yourself in to a staycation, and spend a bit of time on ‘the you, the now and the future’. Professionals in managing weight, age and beauty, Vietura’s comprehensive fully integrated and web supported programmes and treatments will be moving mountains, making us feel healthier about ourselves and our bodies. Take the time today to feel much better tomorrow. www.vietura.com



destinataions

HIGH SEAS Susan Hu sails into waters calm and very, very cool with Sergio and his unique take on an Indonesian classic . . .

When Italian architect, Sergio Supino, promised his father, Francesco, that he would build the most beautiful boat imaginable, he wasn’t exaggerating. Although Sergio’s prior projects focused on resorts, villas, malls and military bases, that didn’t deter him from following through with his vision of creating a sea-faring craft that would combine traditional Indonesian aesthetics with contemporary luxury. The result is Dragoon130, a classic Phinisi ship turned rocking party boat and one of the swankiest ships currently plying the seas. Sergio first came to Indonesia while he was working on various projects in Dubai with his friend and colleague, Pietro Rizutti. In Dubai the duo met Ali Albwardy, an hotelier who wanted their skills and expertise to help build an eco-luxury resort in Tanzania. The two architects decided to source the wood for the resort in Indonesia, and it was here that Sergio got the idea to transform a Phinisi cargo ship into a luxury yacht. The story of Dragoon130 starts in 2008 when the boat was one of the last in Sulawesi to be built out of kayu ulin (iron wood). For years it was used to transport cement between Makassar and Papua, until Sergio laid eyes upon it and made the cargo company an offer they couldn’t refuse. Once the deal was done, Sergio set about procuring building supplies in Sulawesi and together with Pietro and the original crew, they set sail for Lombok. Later, the duo moved the boat to Benoa to complete the transformation. Remodelling the ship was no easy feat. Sergio and Pietro knew they wanted to stick to the original classic contour lines of the Phinisi, but they also wanted to modernise the space in every way possible. Pietro says: “When we arrived in Bali and went around the island we saw the clubs, the tourist market, and the quality of the architecture, so we decided to transform the boat into a luxury club something like Ku De Ta on the ocean. We knew it would be the only one of its kind, and we imagined it as a club on the move where the music, service and entertainment would be the distinctive features.” Utilising a team of Bugis shipbuilders, the architects completely removed the upper deck and added solid recycled teak wood and fiberglass, changed the entire electrical system and plumbing, rebuilt the engine, and added state-of-the-art lighting, entertainment and sound systems, plus a Jacuzzi swimming pool that takes centre place on the huge open air deck. Sergio says: “The biggest challenge was what it would cost to realise this dream. I remember at one point we were spending around USD10,000 every day. Also, finding professional workers and special materials was very difficult in Bali . . . but nothing is impossible.” After months of hard work, Sergio and Pietro had achieved their vision, and the result is a sleek, sophisticated vessel that offers plenty of inviting spaces to chill out both indoors and outdoors for up to 150 people, plus six luxurious suites for those who want to set off on short adventures at sea and still have a place to sleep in style. The upper deck of the ship features a custom-built cockpit surrounded by soft

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beanbag chairs and tables, which are perfect for sipping cocktails and soaking up the sea breezes and views. In front of the cockpit there are more bean bag chairs, as well as cushy sofas next to the Jacuzzi pool. Head downstairs, and you reach the kitchen and dining area with two long bars and a multitude of bar stools. Here you can indulge in signature cocktails prepared by dedicated barmen, as well as fine dining fare from chef Alex of the Bulgari Hotel. This floor also has its own cinema room with a large flat screen TV, karaoke equipment and a Bose stereo system, as well as two guest bathrooms with showers. Finally, the lower floor is home to the six stylish cabins, each of which is airconditioned and has its own private bathroom with a walk-in rain shower. Fine linens and high-quality pillows adorn the beds, and you have access to modern technology at your fingertips, like flat screen TVs and strategically placed reading lamps. “Dragoon130 is a unique boat because of its style and structure,” Sergio says, “It's not traditional, but modern outside and inside. It's luxurious because everything is made from high-quality materials. It's ecological because there were no chemicals used in its production, and it's different because it was really born to be a party boat with all the characteristics and functionality of a disco.” Although Dragoon130 can cater to any type of event including week-long cruises around Indonesia, day cruises, wedding ceremonies and receptions, corporate parties and more, they are most famous for their unforgettable Sunset Cruises and DMZ Bikini Parties with live DJs. The Sunset Cruise departs from Gili Trawangan every Tuesday and Saturday, and it includes a special selection of music in the lounge, full beverage service and hours at sea exploring the coastlines of Lombok and the Gili Islands. After watching the sun slip beneath the horizon in a myriad of colours, the crew will taxi you back to the jetty on Gili T. For those looking for something a bit more free-spirited, the twice-weekly Drunken Monkeyz (DMZ) Bikini Parties are legendary. The party gets started with a welcome drink or wine on deck as the DJs warm up with laid-back beats. As you cruise past white sand beaches and the impressive peak of Mount Rinjani, the DJs pick up the tempo and the deck turns into a floating dance floor. Table service packages are also available with fruit platters, bottles of booze and your choice of mixers. Adventure seekers will also want to try the week-long cruises to Komodo for up to 12 passengers, as well as excursions to Sumba, Sumbawa, Rinca, and Flores, and diving and snorkelling trips to pristine areas like Raja Ampat. Whether you’re drawn in by the stunning architecture and engineering, the ultra-luxe facilities and amenities, or the opportunity to party it up on the waves with 150 of your closest friends, Dragoon130 is a unique vessel offering unparalleled experiences for sybarites seeking artistry and atmosphere at sea. www.dragoon130.com


it's all on dragoon.

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...celebrate personal wellness

Sanur I Ubud I Nusa Dua I Jimbaran P. 62 361 705 777 F. 62 361 705 101 E. experience@kayumanis.com www.thegangsa.com www.kayumanis.com


Alimenta el Alma...Feed the Soul! S p a i n ’ s b i g g e s t c u l i n a r y t r e a s u r e s a r e d i s h e s t h a t f i l l t h e h e a r t - fo o d t h a t i s m a d e w i t h t h e s o u l , m e a n t t o fe e d t h e s o u l . L a F i n c a s t a y s t r u e t o t h i s c u li n ar y he r i tag e . W e are an aut hen t i c , r us t i c I b i z an / S p an i s h M e di te r r an e an d i n i n g e x p e r i e n c e w h e r e e v e r t h i n g i s h o m e - p r e p a r e d w i t h fr e s h , o r g a n i c i n g re di en t s , us i n g t r adi t i on a l , ar t i s an m et ho d s an d re c i p e s . B ut i t ’ s m ore t h a n j u s t fo o d a n d d r i n k s . W e w a n t t o s e r v e y o u a s l i c e o f l i fe b y o f fe r i n g a p l a c e w h e r e y o u c a n fo r g e t a b o u t t h e o u t s i d e w o r l d fo r a m o m e n t a n d g e t l o s t i n a w o r l d o f t r a di t i o n s , f l av o r s , an d ar o m a s t h at f i l l t h e h e ar t .

Let us feed your soul! Jl. Subak Sari 77, Br. Tegal Gundul, Batu Belig 80361, Bali |T. (+62) 361 2105080 / (+62) 361 274 0088 | E. enquiry@lafincabali.com

.com/lafincabali

.com/lafincabali

.com/lafincabali


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hair by toni & guy.

interwho


christina iskandar meets jane hitchcock, Bali-based American fashion model and the fabulous face of campaigns then and now. photo faz kashani.

Jane your remarkable career began at the tender age of 14 when you were chosen as one of two girls for a scholarship to train at the school of Balanchine, New York City Ballet. Do tell us how you were then introduced to modeling? Several times photographers stopped me in the street and said I should be a model. A male dancer at my school told me I needed to go to a studio to have pictures taken and he suggested one and took me there. At the reception the lady asked me if I had an agency . . . I said no so she called Wilhelmina Agency who had just started and only had four models on their books. She was very excited and I was working full time after only two weeks of being signed. She had a press agency and used me to promote the agency . . . so I got a lot of publicity worldwide and could work anywhere in the world at age 14. I became very famous very quickly in the business. I was doing big advertising, high fashion like Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and Elle as well as teen campaigns. Wilhelmina, who was a supermodel of that time, gracing something like 50 covers, trained me on how to be a professional model. I was at the top but she wouldn't let me have the top rate because I was only at the beginning of my career and I had to earn my dues. After three years I moved to Eileen Ford who is a real hero in the business and also cared for me very much, she was a mother hen to all the girls. Did you always want to be a model? Well it’s the dream of many girls, myself included, but being from Alabama I never thought it was possible. I was focusing on ballet and it was my luck that I was propelled out of the norm into a life of dreams coming true. How different is modeling today to back when you were at your peak? Today they don’t take as much time getting the shot just right. The world has been in financial crisis since the oil shortage happened in the ‘70s and advertisers haven’t had as much money to spend, so now they want every thing as quickly and as cheap as possible. Before there were huge budgets

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and if the photographer wasn’t satisfied with the shots, we sometimes had as many as three re-shoots . . . it was really about going for perfection and achievement of the concept they had in mind for a campaign and since there was no Photoshop or digital cameras . . . it was much more involved technically and took much more time. Just setting up the shot often took an hour or two getting the light right. We usually had two hours in the dressing room and needed every minute of it. You were interviewed by the legendary Calvin Klein . . . tell us what sticks out in memory for you and that interview? I've worked with Calvin throughout my career and at 40 he decided the top models who were now older represented his clientele and was excited to use them. We were all in shock to find out somebody wanted to use us at 40 or even 50 at that time. So he and Steven Meisel put us back on the pedestal and gave us careers when we thought it was all over for us. Nowadays there are models having fabulous careers into their 90s, so that means I have 30 more years of fun . . . I do love playing dress-up. You have been Bali-based for how long now? I've been here 13 years. What campaigns have you worked on in Bali? With great thanks to you, Christina, launching my career again here with all your enthusiasm to encourage Nico Perez to do a shoot using a woman over 50, was an outstanding campaign for me with a huge billboard on Jalan Oberoi and beautiful adds in The Yak magazine. I've gone on to work with Federico Gioli, Niluh Djelantik, Grazia and Paul Ropp, to name a few. You are now 60 years of age, something that I find very hard to believe . . . what is your daily diet, and the question every woman wants to know, what's your secret? I try to eat healthy, not too much fried food, sweets, pasta, rice or bread but allow myself to sometimes as I don’t think its good to completely deprive yourself of things you like. I just try to be moderate in those things and of course try to eat fresh healthy things as much as possible. Exercise is always a struggle to keep up regularly for me but what I try to do is use life to exercise, like walking up steps even the same ones several times. If you could give advice to a younger you about modeling, what would you say? I would say you have to really love modeling and love photography. You need an outgoing type of personality to excel and also be professional. Make sure you arrive on time, bring what they ask, do what your agency advises you, and love the adventure.

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Christina Iskandar embroiders a p o r t r a i t o f J o n n y C o ta , t h e c r e at i v e f o r c e b e h i n d fa s h i o n b r a n d s k i n g r a f t. photo by anthony dodds.

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Jonny, you're originally from San Francisco Bay – what brings you to Bali’s shores? My spaceship crash landed in Bali about six years ago. What started out as an innocent adventure soon turned into a creative endeavour. I was mesmerized by all the craftsmanship of the island and decided to start producing garments and accessories here . . . and six years later here I am continuing on this creative path. You are a former travelling circus performer . . . tell us more. After university I ran away with the circus for a few years as a stilt walker and fire performer. We travelled all over the west coast of America and even performed across the pond in Ireland and Italy. I learned a great amount of skills in the circus including costume design and the basic fundamentals of sewing. After my circus years I found my calling as a fashion designer using skills I learned on tour. A lot of those performers and beautiful freaks that were part of the circus have also found their way to Bali to pursue creative interests. Judging by all the social media hype Skingraft is really going places – tell us how it all started for you. Skingraft started with just two freaky performer boys and a rusty sewing machine trying to create some weird alien clothes. We struggled to make ends meet for years but we were constantly evolving the brand, our aesthetic and our commitment to quality craftsmanship. Everything from designing, sewing, patterning, website creation and sales was all done by us. I feel fortunate that Skingraft made it through those years and has matured into a really exciting and stable creative project. With a store in New York City now, was it a dream of yours? We opened our first Skingraft store in L.A. five years ago and last year opened Skingraft NYC. I think it is every young American designer's dream to open a store in NYC but for us it just felt like the next logical step. It happened very organically and we hope to continue to open more stores over the next few years. My dream is to bring Skingraft to Japan within the next few years. Skingraft was recently named Logo’s NewNowNext Fashion Honoree in menswear, this is kind of a huge deal and one you must be so proud of? To be 100 per cent honest, I work so much that I often forget to savour the moments of recognition or accomplishment. Winning awards, or opening a store or showing at New York Fashion Week, the next morning I wake up just thinking about the next collection and how urgently I need to get back to work. We have been very fortunate over the years but my main focus is on the clothes and the rest is just fantasy. You have a huge celebrity following from Rihanna, Tyson Chandler, Adam Lambert and Justin Bieber. How does it feel to have your brand associated with people who have such a strong connection to fashion? And who would you love to dress or work with? I always love to see celebrities wearing my designs. It is definitely a thrill

to see one's designs in such a public way but I get a similar thrill seeing any random kid on the street wearing Skingraft. I do believe that all the celebrity support Skingraft has received has definitely advanced the visibility of our brand over the years but isn't celebrity culture so funny? It kind of weirds me out most of the time. I would love to dress Grace Jones or Tilda Swinton. Your amazing collection at New York fashion Week – most designers only ever dream about it – the lead-up to the collection must have been surrounded by so much hype, how did the end result make you feel? I was thrilled with our show at New York Fashion Week in February. It really does take a fashion army to produce a show like that and one of the most rewarding aspects of showing at fashion week is to be able to look around at all these talented behind-the-scenes people busting their asses to help manifest your vision. As nerve wracking and stressful as it is, it was very humbling. Is anyone else in your family as creative as you are? Skingraft has grown into a family business. My business partner who handles all the business matters of the company is my brother and my sister recently joined the Skingraft L.A. team. My parents have been sitting front row at every fashion show I have ever done (even the old-school ones that were held in dirty, sketchy warehouses). They are definitely Skingraft's number one fans. Where do you call home? Home is where my fiancée and my pit bull are. I used to call L.A. home but Bali is becoming more and more my home each year. Name a place you haven’t been to yet but would love to get to someday? The moon. Who or what is your biggest inspiration to date and why? I have always been fascinated with death. As far back as I can remember I have always romanticised death and the idea of an afterlife. To me it isn't dark, it is more like a shade of bright light we don't fully understand What can we look forward to with Skingraft in the near future? Expanding the collection into shoes, perfumes, sunglasses and furniture. I really love creating the Skingraft retail experience so I hope opening a few more stores is in our future. Jonny's Top Five: Greatest love? Family. Fashion prediction? Radical self-expression overcomes the monotony of the fashion industry. Favourite artist? Matthew Barney. What are you most passionate about? Art and design. Lover or fighter? Lover. www.skingraftdesigns.com

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SUPer NATURAL eponymous fashion designer natasha gan talks to danziel carre about beauty, creation and empowerment. photo spencer hansen.

Natasha, when did you first get bitten by the fashion bug and how did the journey carry onwards? My mother was a dressmaker, so I was always playing around in her workroom from a very young age. I would spend the weekends rummaging around through all the fabrics and trims, dreaming up my own creations. I began taking it more seriously around the age of 13, enrolling in the local TAFE programme to study pattern-making on weekends, and by 16 was selected to study fashion design at East Sydney Technical College. It was during that time I was really able to formalise my skills and gain the confidence to get into the business. You lived in London for a while . . . what was that experience like, working in such a high-profile centre of the fashion universe? It was unbelievable. Straight out of design college at 21, I moved to London. In my second interview there, I landed a job designing for two of the most well-regarded, high fashion retailers, Topshop and Hennes. It was extremely hectic but exciting, and helped me develop an in-depth knowledge of the industry. The immersion in that kind of environment really empowered me to launch my own label. What separates your line from others? I want to make a strong statement through my work. There are so many brands out there doing the same things, but I really try to keep ahead with an innovation of fabrics and texture, colourful prints. Natasha Gan embodies a contradiction of strong and tough silhouettes with a balance of soft delicate silhouettes . . . with quality finishes and a dedication to detail. What type of woman are you designing clothes for? All my designs are catered to the young professional who is not afraid to express herself. The focus has always been on creating a progressive, strong, and sexy collection – so that is the type of women whom I strive to serve. She has to be confident and loves to have fun.

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Where do you find your inspiration (inside and outside of the fashion world)? Everything inspires me. I do a lot of travelling for work and get to see so many cultures that I draw a lot of inspiration from. Living in Bali, I have been really drawn to and influenced by the wide selection of lush colours and exotic prints, which really shows in the designs of my past few collections. What do you most love and hate about the fashion business? What I hate the most? Definitely the production side. Sometimes it can be a real headache dealing with vendors to get things done on time and done in the right way. But as for what I absolutely love about the business, the creating part. It’s amazing to see my ideas come to life, from a concept in my head to sketches on paper to something that women love to wear because it makes them feel beautiful. That creative process is what fuels me. What do you do for fun when not working? I like to go away a lot with my family, and love to catch up with friends. I also do a lot of drawings to keep the creative juices flowing. Where in the world has fashion taken you? Where has been your favourite, and why? Of course London . . . Paris, Spain, Los Angeles. Though Postiano in Italy was my favourite destination. The food was amazing, the people just absolutely wonderful, and the exotic location completely breathtaking. If you weren't doing fashion design, what do you think you'd be doing? Why? I’m really not sure. Fashion has been my only interest ever, and as I love it so much I couldn't imagine not designing. Love what you do, and do what you love . . . why bother with anything else? www.natashagan.com.au


“everything inspires me”.

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interwho Stephanie Mee tunes up with Aussie muso Athron. photo: Dean Hammer.

crowd funded.

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Athron, let’s start singing. Well, I’m Australian and from the first time I picked up a guitar I was really into it. At 17 I left home to join a band . . . as you do . . . and since then I’ve been working and making music constantly. I’ve been in Bali for five years, and for three of those years I’ve just been focused on making music. How would you describe your music? Acoustic, bluesy, folksy, and a bit of rock. Can you tell us about your latest project? I knew for a long time that I wanted to make another album, but I just didn’t have the funds. One day I was talking to my cousin, who is a really close friend of mine, and he said “mate, you’ve got to do crowd funding”. At first, I wasn’t sure about it. You know, it’s a bit strange to just ask people to get involved, especially financially. But eventually, I went for it and set up a campaign on Indiegogo. How did that work out for you? It was really tough on the ego at first, because I don’t usually like to ask people for things. I really only expected to reach half my goal of $10,000 AUD, but I was blown away by the support. It’s been absolutely amazing – I made the goal and then some. I think when you do it like this, people can really get involved, and you can share not just the finished product, but also the whole journey. It also inspires you to do a better job, because you feel like you’ve got so many people invested in your success. So how long have you been working on the album now? My band and I started recording in Antida Studios in Sanur in December of last year, but we really started going hard at it about two or three months ago. I’m so grateful to have such talented musicians to work with. We’ve got Deny Surya on drums, Edi Kurniawan on bass, Ian Stevenson on electric guitar, and me on acoustic guitar and vocals. Ian is also a producer, so he has really helped forge the album forward. What’s the story behind how you met your band mates? I used to come to Bali a lot on holiday, and I attended Rock Fest one year and heard this band doing some really cool Radiohead-type stuff. I got talking to the singer, Ian, and thought that I would really love to work with a guy like that one day. Later I was at a Single Fin event and I turned around and there he was. Ian and I became great mates over the years, and now he’s been truly instrumental in making the album what it is. Sounds like you’ve been rocking the music scene in Bali for a while. In your opinion, how has the scene changed or progressed over the years? The live music scene in Bali was really stuck for a while. There were so many DJs and clubs, but not a lot of musicians doing original stuff. Over the past few years there has been a huge influx of young expats and fashionistas, plus a new swell of musicians who are activating the scene and pushing it forward. That’s why we’re seeing more places like Deus, Single Fin, Old Man’s and Pyramid promoting live bands, and more people are appreciating the amazing local and expat bands that are out there. The scene is really changing, and we need that. What can we expect from your album? Will there be any Balinese

influences? You know, I used to live in Seminyak, but it really got to me, so I made the move to Ungasan and just spent a lot of time by myself writing songs. So you might hear some of the songs and think, “wow, that guy has spent a LOT of time alone”. But it’s great to just be surrounded by local people and have that space to be creative. So in that way Bali has influenced the music, but in terms of the sound it’s pretty Western. Do you have any advice for other musicians keen to make an album? First of all, get to know your songs inside and out before you go to the studio. Really know what you want. Then record yourself and demo your music to see how it sounds. Once you’re confident with what you’ve got, find someone to produce it and get their advice. I was lucky to have Anom Darsana at Antida Studios and Ian to give me input, which helped me immensely. It’s so important to get someone else’s perspective. What does the future hold for you? Well, we’re about six weeks away from releasing the album, so that’s exciting. It’s called Escape Into Fiction, and it will be available in hard copy and downloadable formats. And of course, we’ll have an album launch party here in Bali . . . something fun. In addition, I’m really trying to work on getting the band over to Australia. We have many events like the Sydney Festival where people have a lot of appreciation for bands doing their own thing, especially multi-cultural bands. I think it would be good for people to see that collaboration between Indonesia and Australia, especially considering how sensitive the situation has been between the two countries lately. As for myself, I’m thinking about checking out New York City or San Francisco in the not-so-distant future. I really want to put myself in that big city space again and see where the music scenes are going there. But I know I’ll always be tied to Bali, so even if I go somewhere else, I’ll always come back. www.athron.net

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“ S o I t a k e t h e p is t o l a n d p u t i t s t r a i g h t to my head . . . that’s the moment of c l a r i t y I h a d – I s o b e r e d u p i m m e d i at e ly a n d i n a s p l i t - s e c o n d t h o u g h t ‘ t h is is t h e v e i l b e t w e e n h e r e a n d n o t h i n g n e ss ’ , a n d I pulled the trigger . . . click.”

Andrew E. Hall meets bruno hassen . . . and a life less ordinary. photo: anthony dodds.

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Bruno: rebooted.

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I’m sitting at Old Man’s in Canggu when a tall, sandy-haired bloke turns up on a specially modified motorcycle – attached to a sidecar that contains a leather-upholstered wheelchair. He says that the Batu Bolong surf break – out front of Old Man’s – is one of his favourites on Bali. But he has lost the use of his legs. Bruno (AKA “B”) Hassen’s life journey began in Bulawayo, Zimbabwe in the early 1970s amidst a nasty civil war and the accompanying turmoil. In 1978 the family decided to move after B’s parents’ passenger jet was shot down in what became known as the Hunyani Disaster. “They were the only husband and wife team to survive it, although a few others survived the crash . . . Robert Mugabe and his merry men shot the plane down and then (his people) came and started killing everyone . . . but my parents survived,” B says. “I remember as a seven year old waving them off at the airport and getting a weird feeling – kids have strong intuition that we forget about when we’re older. “Growing up in Zimbabwe was wild though – tough but fun – there were always lion and elephant coming into the garden at night so we were never allowed to go out at night – someone would be eaten. “My mate was squashed by an elephant walking to school . . .” B says that the name Bruno was basically a dogs’ name in his native land when he was growing up. “The most fights I got into in and out of school was about my name . . . I stopped answering to it, and rarely do so to this day . . . everyone just calls me B.” The Hassen family found its way to South Africa where, B says, he had a “fairly” normal upbringing for a while in the apartheid state. “We were always getting beaten up by the Dutch because they hated the English as much as they hated the Blacks and those Afrikaners were all big, strong boys,” he says. But after the plane crash, and an ensuing three days of terror before they were found, B’s parents’ attitude to life changed and they took the family on a nomadic journey that encompassed southern Africa and then over to Europe and Scandinavia and back again. “They kind of became Gypsies,” B says, “they had a very different view on life after the crash than before.” B went to 14 different schools but on the way discovered that his real passion was for surfing, which he would indulge at every available opportunity. His mother would make him do his times tables on the beach and only then was he allowed into the water. “After leaving school I knew I wanted to go out into the world . . . and there was something about Asia,” B says. And he did – with the South African navy; doing his national service. “I was meant to do four years but I ran away after two. When Nelson Mandela came along and changed the whole thing I ran away. I’d been around

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guns and fighting and killing so much I was over it . . . hated it,” B says. After military service B worked his way around the world on boats – free to do so largely because he had a Danish passport after being granted asylum in that country after fleeing the war in Zimbabwe. But then he got called up for military service in Denmark. “. . . oh fuck, another bloody army . . .” Long story short, he did his time there as well and trained as a Special Forces naval diver. “One day I remember having my gun in my hand and I was lying in a forest, thinking to myself, ‘I’m in the navy, what am I doing lying in a forest’ and I looked at the gun – which was basically a killing machine – and I just felt sick. I dropped it and had to stand away from the gun with a sick, sick, sick feeling,” B says. “I remember thinking that I had become what I hate the most . . . I’ve been trained to become a pawn for the powers at the top who are pulling the strings . . . I’m a fucking pawn on a chessboard and I said to my mates, ‘we’re a bunch of idiots’.” The love of riding waves remained strong within him and, in the early ‘90s, led him on an adventure to Indonesia after he met a South African charter yacht owner – who was offering surf tours around the Mentawai Islands, Nias, Sumbawa and Sumatra – and begged to be taken on board as a boat boy to work for free. “I just wanted to surf,” B says. But the captain of the yacht disappeared with a new girlfriend, leaving the boat owner with little alternative than to put B in charge. And for several years he lived the life idyll sailing the oceans and surfing. Helmi, a good mate of B’s whose passion was paragliding as well as surfing, was often to be found on the boat and they would discuss their greatest loves – usually women, surfing and paragliding – and their greatest fears . . . both decided that their greatest fear was losing the use of their legs. Be careful what you attract to yourself B says. “In 1998 I’d sailed the boat back to Phuket and I got a call from the owner saying that ‘Hellman’ had been involved in a paragliding accident and was seriously injured and was in a wheelchair,” B says. He had to go back to South Africa for a meeting with the boat owner and wanted to check in on his friend – but Helmi had been moved to a different hospital the day before. “That night I went out with a girl and we got car-jacked, we got shot at, she’s driving and I’m just trying to keep her calm and tell her to keep driving . . . keep driving up the road at 80kph because these guys will do something bad – this is Cape Town,” B says. “We were on the highway at about two in the morning and they must have shot out the tyres because the car flipped, rolled and landed on its roof. “I thought the guys in the other car were going to leave us and


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I said to ‘Nicola’ just make sure everything is working with you, the car isn’t on fire . . . I thought we were going to be okay.”

had – I sobered up immediately and in a split-second thought ‘this is the veil between here and nothingness’, and I pulled the trigger . . . click.”

But it wasn’t okay – four attackers came to the car, pulled ‘Nicola’ out and started trying to rape her.

Shortly after that, and still in a deep funk, B (who describes himself at the time as “white, skinny and soulless” – a Golum) decided that drowning would be a good option – giving his body back to the ocean he loved so much. He borrowed a long board from a girl on the beach and was actually piggybacked down to the water by an old friend from South Africa who had turned up in Mexico and who thought B just wanted to go for a paddle.

“Two guys grabbed me – I had one arm out the window and my leg was trapped under the seat – and tried to pull me out of the car and I was trying to fight back,” B says. “I remember really trying to break one guy’s neck – I had my arm around his neck, I was six-foot-four, a hundred kilos, I was strong, fit and had trained for years in the military . . . but he was just too strong. “They hauled me half out the window but as they were yanking on me and beating me the car started rocking and rolled down an embankment . . . that’s what broke my back.” B was flung from the vehicle and it rolled on top of ‘Nicola’ and started to burn. He lay there unable to move listening to her scream for some hours before they were discovered. The attackers, meanwhile, robbed them and fled.

“It was the best wave I ever caught in my life and I’d surfed the best waves in Indonesia, Tahiti and South Africa,” he says. “That one-foot foamy rebooted my system.” In the next three months B built his life again and continued surfing.

“I had a full-on out-of-body experience – nothing like that had ever happened to me before – so when people say to me nowadays ‘there’s no spirit world, there’s nothing’, I say ‘well maybe but I experienced something different, something on the other side – whatever that is’,” B says.

“And then I knew I had to build a boat, sail across the Indian Ocean again from South Africa and just get back to Indonesia and Thailand – the places that I knew best,” he says.

B found himself in the same hospital room that Helmi had been checked out of the day before, cared for by the same nurses . . . three months after the conversation on a boat in Indonesia about their greatest fears.

He was accompanied on his voyage by a South African friend, James, and they picked up various travellers along the way, especially (goodlooking) women, who, B says, generally turned out to be better sailors than big, tough-talking, tattooed blokes who, when the weather turned nasty, were “the first ones to cry for their mummies”.

The cost of that kind of health care in South Africa was enormous but luckily B’s parents had settled in Cornwall, England and arranged for B to be relocated to the Salisbury Spinal Unit where he underwent six months of arduous rehabilitation.

And he did . . . arriving in Thailand just in time for the 2004 tsunami.

The boat was a 55-foot catamaran and B started his journey back to Asia with a shakedown cruise to Kenya where he had an encounter with Somali pirates . . .

“That was fine because there were pretty nurses, pretty physiotherapists . . . and everything in the facility was designed for people in wheelchairs,” B says.

“I shot two guys on board (with) my great aunty Betty’s 9mm Beretta that I carried in the back of my wheelchair . . .”

“So you think life is okay . . . and I’ve come out of the denial stage and learnt humility because I’m being cared for by these hot, pretty nurses . . .

In December 2004 B sailed into Phuket where James got off and flew back to South Africa.

“But once I left the rehab unit that’s when everything went pear-shaped.” After undergoing stem cell spinal surgery in San Diego, which turned out to be unsuccessful B says he “just flipped”. He got himself to Mexico – but doesn’t remember the details of exactly how – and embarked on a self-destructive binge that saw him, at one point, playing Russian roulette on a beach with a bunch of Mexicans. “I was whining and complaining about things like not even being able to get to the toilet and I said ‘fuck it I want to kill myself’. One of the Mexicans says, ‘hey gringo, tired of your fucking whining’, he pulls out a big pistol, puts a round in the chamber, spins it and pushes it over to me and says, ‘go on then, kill yourself. “So I take it put it straight to my head . . . that’s the moment of clarity I

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His attempt at throwing himself off the board and drowning were as successful as trying to shoot himself in the head – he’s a floater. Undeterred he got back onto the board and paddled towards the break thinking that if he went “over the falls”, that would be it. But fate stepped in again and what he describes as “a one-foot foamy” turned him around and carried him to the beach.

“There I was, alone on the boat, when the tsunami hit . . . there was another guy on land in a hotel named Bruno taking pictures of my cat cresting the incoming waves . . .” B says. “I only just survived that.” James flew back to Thailand to help B sort out the chaos that occurred in the wake of the tsunami and, at the behest of another mate who lived on Bali, sailed down to the island B now calls home . . . most of the time. “We sailed down to Bali . . . I hated it here for the first year because I’d been here in the early ‘90s and I knew what it was about. And I arrived back here and thought, ‘this is crazy – it’s a zoo’,” B says. “I threaten to leave every year – and here I am, still here 10 years later . . .”


PERFECTION • UNITY • COMPLETENESS

Massage / Face / Nails / Hair / Spa Packages Waxing / Beauty / Bridal Coming Soon to Made’s Warung Seminyak - June 2014

info@kaianaspa.com • www.kaianaspa.com Jl Raya Seminyak, Made’s Warung 2nd floor Uma Cucina-The Yak 2014 _Layout 1 06/02/2014 17:12 Page 1

THE SPIRIT OF ITALY AT UBUD’S NEWEST RESTAURANT

Uma Cucina, located on the edge of the artisan’s town of Ubud, is among this year’s hottest new restaurants to have opened in Bali. This easygoing, convivial eatery – where friends and families gather at lunch, afternoon tea and dinner – is where to come for fresh, locally-sourced produce turned into simple house-made specialities. Brick-oven pizzas, chargrilled seafood and classic Italian gelatos combine with the open-air terrace and homely ‘kitchen’ ambience to deliver the spirit of Italy in the heart of the tropics. Nicolas Lazzaroni – an Italian-born chef who has worked at some of Australia’s greatest eateries – heads up the kitchen. His culinary philosophy centres around a love of rustic Italian cooking that brings people together with fresh, quality produce. Uma Cucina (www.umacucina.com) is located on Jalan Raya Sanggingan in Ubud, and is open daily for lunch and dinner from noon to 10.30 pm. Call +62 361 972448 or email dining.uma.ubud@comohotels.com for reservations.


artsake

PINTOR S u si J o h n s t o n a n d p i n t o r si r a i t w r e s t l e w i t h t h e semiotic of art in the modern world. photos: lucky 8.

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Over breakfast at Betelnut Cafe in Canggu, Pintor is ready to plunge into the heart of art itself, even pre-coffee. "In my art, I want to show the questions that I am asking myself. Looking at the sky, seeing how that is scary. Art provides the medium between one's individuality and the infinite, the scary," he says. Pintor and I have been friends for years, and have many common interests. One of them is a profound appreciation for the arts and culture of the Batak people of North Sumatra. Pintor is Batak, a descendant of an esteemed noble lineage. He is also global, was born in Germany, and has studied and worked in America, France, Bandung and elsewhere. As one of Indonesia's most prominent contemporary artists, he really needs no introduction at all. The biodata and lists of landmarks in his career are just a Google away, so I won't waste paper reiterating them here. Our breakfast arrives as we discuss the original place of art in Indonesian traditions, and the points of germination where art emerged here over several millenia. Art, to indigenous cultures like the Batak, was not art as we know it. Artworks were functional things, magical instruments to forge links between individual lives as experienced, and all that big stuff out there, the unknown, the infinite, death, and other scary stuff, like Pintor's sky. Indonesian primal art consisted of amulitic, symbolic objects created and deployed to negotiate relationships with the unknowable. But with most contemporary art production, Pintor laments, there's a disconnect from this intrinsic Indonesian-ness, that limits its significance in the broader context of art across vast continents, and vast expanses of time from the day a petroglyph first graced a cave wall until the day human society expires, as everything ultimately does. "So we take the original functional meaning, the niskala [metaphysical] role of art here in Indonesia, and then how do we interpret and apply that now?" Pintor wonders aloud. "I mean, what IS art for people here now? Most people never get to see the works, there is no interaction, or very little. If the artworks go straight from the studio to the collector's home, then what does it actually DO?" These are the kinds of questions Pintor asks himself, and strives to embody in his work. Now let's get out of the mist of abstractions and origins, and get down to the guns and steel. We keep talking rapid-fire as we get into my car and head for his steel sculpture fabrication studio in south Denpasar. On the way, Pintor emphasises that his training as an artist is atypical. He got a degree in cultural psychology, and then went directly to objectmaking, material, process, stone and steel. The psychologist emerges as he muses about the genesis of the schizoid state of Indonesian art now, covering the history of western forms of fine art here (painting on canvas, conventional sculpture), and the political underpinnings that affected this process. He knows his stuff, Pintor does. He's been giving solid lectures on Indonesian art at the ARMA Museum in Ubud, as part of an art appreciation initiative by the Art in One Society of Bali. This leads, inevitably, to consideration of art and the market. The conversation veers to the role of money, new money, dirty money, and dirty hegemonies in recent Indonesian art history. "I'm not following what's going on with the market. I'm putting up the mirror, and looking in that mirror and seeing what comes up, through that experience, that feeling. And that becomes my art," Pintor says. He is more concerned with identity – finding the misplaced identities of Indonesian peoples, and examining his own.

"If I give in to the art market, I disempower myself," he pronounces, "and I will find myself getting rewards that I don't really want, I don't really need." We consider the record-shattering sale this year of a work by recentlydeceased Indonesian artist Seabad S. Sudjojono for about seven million dollars. So I ask: "What if a work of yours got the highest hammer price for an Indonesian work at auction?" He answers: "I would be crying." We mull over market thinking where art is treated as an investment to be acquired and traded like a stock portfolio rather than an art portfolio. His phone rings, and he whispers, "It's a Chinese client who wants to buy my work," then puts his phone on silent, and I remark on the proliferation of art advisers. "Advisors?" he says, "These people have art fund managers!" We arrive at the studio, in a bumpy grass-choked alley. It is and always has been absolutely non-luxurious, just a big bengkel really, there's not even a chair or a table. And it's hot in there. Pintor's a buruh seni and this is his bengkel. It's rough and functional in the extreme, with well-worn torches, welding apparatus, grinders, winches, chains and compressors at the ready. I think Pintor is most himself when he's got a welder's mask on, physically engaged with metal and fire, like a Batak Prometheus unbound. And now the guns come in. Pintor has a firearms license, which is not easily acquired in this country. He shoots as a hobby, a sport, and as a means of expression. He shoots sheets of metal with high-powered handguns. He shoots his own stainless steel masterpieces until they are riddled with ripped out holes, their exit wounds like razor-sharp frozen explosions. A representative collection of recent masterpieces is here today in the bengkel seni [art garage]. Musings On Exhibitions Past and Future F1 Hit the bigtime. But critical. FETISH at Biasa was a watershed as yet unsurpassed in the now-floundering Bali gallery scene. DEMOCRACY. "LOVE". Icons. Objects of desire. Futility. And for Pintor and others, anger. People are buying accessories @ used Lambo price (and there will be lots of used Lambos on the market soon, ex KPK). But the status-seekers' accessories (art investments), mischieviously manifest Pintor's critical and frustrated stance, witnessing the material-mania that's gripped Indonesia during the past decade, to the point that power-brokers are arm wrestling over where, when, and how fast they can make multiple simulacra of the F1 night circuit they so worship in Singapore. These works are sharp. And desired. Ouch. MYTHIC AIRWAYS The epic statement. Insane in cost and time. Layered critical content, dredged up from introspection and bewilderment at the real but not real dreams and nightmares of Indonesia's headlong race to maju (advance), to run after a departing train (heading for someone else's destination), whether it's shoelaces are tied first or not. The cost of materials alone was in the neighborhood of $100,000. This was a committed and courageous move. This will never fly. And it's shot full of holes. And embellished with high-karat gold. And it's sold (phew). Centrepiece of ArtJog12. Not only mythic, but also mystifying. The art public scratched their collective heads, but will never forget.

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artsake

FEET (artjog 13) Digging to the roots, the feet. But sharp, angry, sense of tantrum seeing the slaughter of the metaphysical power of standing in place, grounded in time and space. Locus. Identity. Footprints and inscriptions are personal, human, unique, eternal. I cut myself on this work and have the scars to prove it. HIBISCUS All that steel and fire and guns and spleen in the aforementioned works . . . but Pintor is not rough or raw at all as a person. Soft-spoken. Easy humour. Pliable, curious, humble mind. Family man. Gentle, refined, respectful. His work can also be ultra smooth, refined, while still avoiding pretty. Ferrari red. Cliche flower. By being so stylized, and so upscaled, so monumental, it totally avoids "pretty" and instead ellicits awe, an encounter with The Sublime (c.f. Kant Critique of Judgement, Rothko, Newman, Kapoor, Koons, etc.) But, this IS Indonesia. Now.

right to left: mythic airways, f1, more bullet holes on the manifest. Overleaf: Hibiscus.

BATAK (ME AND MY FAMILY GROUP OF WORK FOR 2016 EXHIBITION) Back to the disconnect. Sagmeister (collaborator). Asking the same questions Pintor has been asking. Where is the Indonesia in Indonesian art? I want to see THAT. It's not relevant or interesting to see rehashed Warhol. These people clone each other so quickly. It's frightening. Pintor's "closed door" idea. Broad implications, Jokowi's now immortal "revolusi mental" speech. And in a way that is what he is doing. Closed door. Looking within. Finding the power and function which is the Indonesia, the identity in his identity. Digging into it. Making it personal. Turned out to be difficult. I helped with scads of historical photos, and when we looked at them he recognised grandparents, great-grandparents, greatgreat-grandparents. Death, the skulls, his skull. Puts it in the NOW (dated, time) and "I poisoned myself with all that radiation". This is Pintor putting his questions into solid form . . . and viable answers to the questions begin to emerge on their own. Part of a gestating body of work for a 2016 solo exhibition. Identity. www.pintorsirait.com 90


hibiscus.

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feature

Would you offer your throat to the wolf with the red rose? If not maybe you should think twice about offering it to a guy with a super sharp razor in his paw . . . or perhaps not, writes Jack Taylor. Photos Anthony Dodds.

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something for the weekend?

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feature

Decades passed as young men completed their rite of passage without even considering the straight razor, pushing it ever closer to extinction.

But what if the last 60-odd years were just a

blip on the bigger picture. This year Gillette and Schick have reported a drop in sales by ONCE a ritual of manhood, now reduced to a

daily chore. Is this really the way shaving has

ended up for men? Scraping away at your stubble in the morning with a cheap disposable razor

has little class, but that is exactly what many of us choose to do. It is sold as a fast and

convenient way to shave . . . we see smooth, chiseled jaws being rubbed admiringly. The

reality is closer to spots of blood peppered

over your neck and bright pink blotches of razor burn. So why do we still choose this degraded form of male grooming over its distinguished grandfather, the straight razor wet shave?

For centuries the straight razor was the de facto

standard for shaving. Bespoke tools made to last, with polished steel blades and handles made of

ivory or mother-of-pearl. Barbers were artisans; skillfully shaving different faces every day –

professionals who would trim off your whiskers and

sculpt a horseshoe moustache or a mutton-chop beard with ease. Being able to handle a straight razor

well was, and still is, something to take pride in. Roll on the second half of the 20th century and

the rise of throwaway living, the lust for instant gratification, a decline of the traditional ways

of doing things. Safety razors and electric razors superseded the traditional cutthroat blade.

as much as 10 per cent, while hand-crafted

straight razors from the likes of Thiers Issard have never been in such high demand. Is a

resurgence of the cutthroat shave upon us? Rejection of a disposable lifestyle and the

shift towards becoming a sustainable society is playing its part, but there is more to it

than that. It is nostalgia for the traditional

way of doing things, the way classic has become cool again. For barbers business is on the up, and traditional wet shaves are back. A chore for you in the bathroom, or a self-indulgent

half hour or so in a barber shop, your choice. Maybe shaving can become a ritual again.

Think about your usual morning shave and then

imagine this. Sat back in a comfy barber’s chair with a hot towel around your face softening

up your stubble. The fresh feeling of menthol shaving cream brushed over your disheveled

jowls. Relaxing while the barber strips away

your beard without a pinch of the skin. Enjoying the closest possible shave topped off with a cold towel to soothe your fresh face.

On an island where tradition is clung to

with reverence, the straight razor shave has

been preserved in many of the local barber’s shops across Bali. Alongside the traditional potong rambut, a new breed of men’s barbers is beginning to sprout up, offering more

luxurious straight razor shaves to go with the usual scissor and clipper cut. Here are three barbers that each offer something slightly

different for those of you who are ready to let somebody else hold a razor to your throat.

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hair cuts and more . . .

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feature retro renaissance.

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The Barber of Bali

Climb the winding staircase to reach this first

floor barber’s shop, the two glass walls providing views over the bustling junction of Jl. Mertandi

and Raya Seminyak. Armed with a holster of combs, scissors and razors hanging from their hip, the barbers here are equipped for anything, from

the traditional wet shave to the Baldy full head shave. Order a beer if there is a wait, or a

whiskey if you are going straight into the chair. Answering whether there is a growing demand

for traditional straight razor shaves, owner,

Desmond Koval, says: “Undoubtedly there has been

“It is driven by a nostalgia for retro. The

straight razor evokes simpler notions of the

past, such as its macho image and a sense of

pride in the skill required to shave with it.” Jl. Merdeka, Renon Tel. 0361 264 568 seven _ barber@yahoo.com twitter.com/SevenBarber

a resurgence in respect for old-school barbering

around the world. Many of our clientele hail from Europe, Russia, and The Middle East where having a proper shave is the way to start your day.” 8x Raya Basangkasa, Seminyak Tel. 0361 843 9868 xislebarber@gmail.com facebook.com/TheBarberBali

Plawa Barber

Do not be put off by the no-frills appearance of this traditional Indonesian barber’s shop, just a stone’s throw from the junction of Jl. Dhyana

Pura and Jl. Raya Seminyak. Marked with the words potong rambut painted on the wall outside, here

a straight razor shave is nothing new . . . it is

the way it has always been done. Keep that in mind and you will enjoy a unique shaving experience

Seven Barber

Opening earlier this year, Seven Barber is one

of the island’s newest barber’s shops. The iconic

red, white and blue barber’s pole sits by the shop window that announces “classic cuts lie within”. Inside the decor is a throwback to another era. The walls are adorned with photos of clean-cut gentlemen movie stars, from Marlon Brando to

Sean Connery, and vintage barber’s posters. An antique gramophone and radio, and the letters

at the hands of the experienced barber running

this show. The sensory experience of hot and cold towels does not apply here, but pay attention and you will notice the absence of shaving

cream in favour of a lump of soap whisked into

a lather before being brushed onto your face. It does not get any more old-school than this. Jl. Plawa No.1, Seminyak No appointment necessary

‘SV’ written in lightbulbs shining from the back of the shop are the finishing designer touches.

For the owner, Yus Adrian, the reasons behind the resurgence of the straight razor shave are clear.

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n on m e s d te an na n mi me r u wo ll en Ha w e t E. be ew nd d r bo An e th

.

.

.

a pr in . u s o n er ti ot ra B st do lu an Il rn Fe

e is

of

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OMNIBUS


Adam and Eve.

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OMNIBUS

self portrait with flag.

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“Guys always think tears are a sign of weakness. They’re a sign of frustration. She’s only crying so she won’t cut your throat in your sleep. So make nice and be grateful.” - Donna Barr (author) Men are from Earth, women are from Earth. Deal with it. - George Carlin (author, actor, comedian and philosopher)

different from that of Adam. And who actually showed considerable curiosity about her surroundings. One question I have . . . well a couple really: whose image was Eve created in; and why couldn’t Om come up with some better names – like Dweezil and Moon Unit which the late, great, Frank Zappa (a mere mortal) came up with some time later?

WE, all of us, are the corporeal narrative of a subjective collective – an anthropomorphised story line that trends, like a Mandelbrot set, to infinity . . . or so we’d like to think.

As to the first question, however, from the “evidence” one might deduce that Om was/is neither male nor female but a subtle blending of both, and maybe something more.

As such, there are a few theories that purport to explain how we got here.

Some heavy hitters with a theological bent place the creation of the first man and woman at around 4,120 years BCE (before the Christian era), which would mean about 6,134 years BMNB (before my next beer).

A fairly popular one involves an allegedly omnipotent and omniscient entity whom we will call – for purposes of expediency – Om. In a hugely successful book in which Om features prominently this, entity is invariably referred to as being of the male gender – a claim I am sceptical of given the manifest absence of any anatomical detail. The first chapter in The Book of Om describes (in a pretty sketchy manner, it must be said) how Om – in a muse of creativity – decided to bring into existence the “heavens” and the Earth. What Om was doing before the creative muse kicked in isn’t really explained to the satisfaction of the discerning reader. Om spent a meagre six days whacking the whole shebang together and at the end of this period – presumably so Om could better visualise the handiwork – decided to add the finishing touch of “light”. If only Albert Einstein had understood this he could have spent much less time (another of Om’s artistic concepts) at the blackboard doing maths and more time entertaining people with his violin.

The Book of Om implies that while the creation of the “heavens” was pretty cool, Om’s pet project was really the Earth, upon which Om made everything that flyeth, swimmeth, crawlleth, and a plethora of other “eths” that these days we would refer to as “the environment”. But something was missing . . . With a narcissistic flourish Om is said to have created the “first” man – in “his own image” according to The Book – from some topsoil in a botanical project Om was particularly fond of. This, perhaps, explains why some men are so shallow . . . and according to many men’s female partners, dirty.

In which case the Australian Aborigines (and a bunch of other peoples) are a rather inconvenient anomaly. Long story short, the whole garden thing went pear-shaped with knowledge-bearing apples and talking snakes (that Om could have easily left out of the equation) . . . and Adam finally discovered what “that bit” was there for. There was a whole lot of begetting and begatting and the Earth became populated (in a way that suggests quite a bit of incest). . . . and then Om develops a massive inferiority complex; demanding that people prove their “love” for “Him” – He’s clearly allowed His masculine side to take over at this point and The Book of Om takes on a distinctly misogynist tone from here on in. There was poor old Job (AKA Jobe) whose whole family (mainly females) and livelihood were wiped out as a test of his “faith” (a test he apparently passed with flying colours despite Om’s obnoxious behaviour). There was Lot, whose wife (unnamed in The Book of Om) was turned into a pillar of salt for the crime of taking a backward glance at the destruction of the city of Sodom. This was probably the origin of the saying in later times: “that’s your lot mate”. And it most likely behoves us not to bid for a “job-lot” at an auction. Down through the ages when women have become aggrieved by their treatment at the hands of men, men have pointed to The Book and, with feigned solemnity, uttered, “it is written”.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. So there’s a fully formed “man” (no annoying childhood theatrics for Om) whom Om – with a spectacular lack of imagination given previous achievements – called Adam, sitting around by himself in a garden in a blissful state of ignorance (he might have looked down from time to time and wondered, “what’s that bit for?”) until Om decided to make him a playmate named Eve – a woman whose physiology was markedly

So is the astoundingly sexist “law” (which might be more appropriately written as “lore”) in places like Pakistan and Saudi Arabia to the present day. Written by whom one might ask . . . and in what context? And to what end – if not to create a gender-biased power base whereby might equals right and subservience and obedience equals some kind of

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OMNIBUS

spurious pre-ordained structural arrangement that resonates and replicates Om’s inferiority complex. The “natural selection” process of evolution as posited by Charles Darwin et al contains no such subjective judgements as exist in The Book of Om . . . but, nevertheless, can be just as brutal. It does, however, provide a plausible explanation for the existence of peoples – indeed “life” in general – whose heritage extends farther rearward than 6,134 years BMNB. Of course there are other texts that form the basis of so-called “religions” that prescribe and proscribe the behaviours of men and women – largely in favour of men when it comes to issues like polygamy and who controls resources in their societal constructs, regardless of whether a patriarch or matriarch sits on the top tier in their places of worship and towers of power. I can’t think of one woman who has led a major “church” however, except, perhaps, the queen of England who is the titular head of the Anglican Church. But the day-to-day running of that organisation is in the hands of the Archbishop of Canterbury, who has always been a bloke. As is the head of the Catholic Church – in the form of something called a Pope who cleverly inserted an “infallibility” caveat into his job description. It was Pope Gregory “the Great” who branded one of the very few female leads in The Book of Om 2.0, a harlot . . . after she had been roundly defamed by the all-male writing team of that book. While 2.0 bangs on quite extensively about the nature and need for “love” – despite the obvious internecine jealousies and back-stabbing behaviours as set down in The Book – it took quite a long time before some prescient scribes (from William Shakespeare et al, to presentday screenwriters) unravelled the concept for us and presented it as a cultural imperative we could all understand . . . But I digress again. There have, however, been powerful women throughout history: Ancient Greece had the oracle in the temple of Apollo at Delphi whose visionary prognostications were sought by all manner of elite Grecians; and in ancient Rome the Vestal Virgins were trusted and called upon to put their imprimatur on the most important ceremonies of that society, and other duties and rights befitting those who were righteous and pure and held in esteem. Cleopatra was a notable powerhouse in first century BCE Egypt. In addition to her penchant for forcibly annexing neighbouring countries (empire-building was a popular sport in those days), she was widely regarded for her patronage of what was then the most significant repository of knowledge in the known world, the Royal Library of Alexandria and the adjoining “Museaum” of Alexandria – the known world’s most prestigious research institute. This institution was dedicated to the Muses – the nine goddesses of knowledge (which might be a throwback to the Eve story). It also had

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the world’s first steam-driven automatic door. Down through the ages queens have reigned in numerous countries and over a smaller number of empires – not merit-based appointments but simply because they occupied (and still occupy) advantageous positions in a familial pecking order. There is not a shred of evidence to suggest they were more (or less) compassionate, wise, benevolent or malevolent than their male counterparts from times of yore. Until the occurrence of “democracy” the top end of town could do pretty much whatever it wanted . . . and did, regardless of gender – leaving “lesser” mortals to the tender mercies of whatever narrative the ruling classes chose to explain themselves to themselves. Democracy (which comes from two Greek words; dêmos “the people” and kratia “power, rule”) as we understand it during the 19th century and onwards, brought with it a wider conversation about the rights and roles of women and men in democratised societies. Who was allowed to vote (and, by definition, who wasn’t, i.e. women) in national elections was a significant part of that conversation. In 1893, New Zealand, then a self-governing British colony, granted adult women the right to vote and the self-governing British colony of South Australia did the same in 1895, the latter also permitting women to stand for office. Australia federated in 1901, and women acquired the right to vote and stand in federal elections from 1902. That made my maternal grandmother very happy because she trucked no nonsense from men who thought they were superior. Other countries gradually followed the lead of the antipodes later in the 20th century. At the present time – and this is quite interesting – the theocratic states of Saudi Arabia and the Vatican City are the only countries that allow men to vote but not women. Throughout all this time the basic expectation of men – at least your “average” man – was to work hard, support a family . . . and fight in wars that other men started. Women proved they could not only vote, but could do the heavy lifting in industrial complexes when “the boys” went off to war – and could write some pretty catchy tunes designed to bolster the morale of those about to die. But when the wars were over and what remained of “the boys” came home, women once again found themselves in a kind of limbo. At the end of WWII when men once again took over as the worker ants, the majority of women were consigned to the home. No problem because some men had anticipated this would happen and had been constructing yet another narrative for women – the narrative of “the housewife” . . . that happy “little” person who loved to cook and clean and tend to unruly ankle-biters. And, of course, they needed all sorts of


dANCING COUPLE.

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omnibus

les amants.

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appliances and other stuff to help them achieve their housewifely goals. Vast advertising and marketing firms sprang up and – using the narrative techniques that Joseph Goebbels had refined to turn the average, right-thinking German into a Nazi – turned the women of the 1950s and ’60s into “consumers”. Yes, women were the first “consumers” as we understand the term today – a dubious first for the fairer sex. I remember an English TV ad when I was a teenager that depicted a happy housewife cooking some kind of pre-packaged meal and presenting it to her family at the dinner table . . . the tagline came when dad, brother and sister turned to camera and chorused: “isn’t she a wonderful mother”. My family actually carried out this ritual for a while at meal times (although my mother would not have a bar of such “foods” as in the ad) until we decided it was a bit lame . . . and returned to the more normal conversational routine of why I was such crap at school. During the 1960s a backlash to this depiction of women was brewing – assisted by a lengthy tradition of feminist literature, a fundamental shift in the reach and messages of popular music . . . and an astounding rise in the use of of psychotropic substances. Dr Timothy Leary admonished young people to “turn on, tune in and drop out”. And they did. Yet another war – confected by a democratically elected president against a spectral “enemy” in a far off land – galvanised women and men into opposing such folly. And, for the first time in living memory, they stood side by side and hand in hand, whether they knew each other or not, in the name of humanity. They stood as equals. “Equality” is a term that is bandied about a lot but there has never been, and never will be, true equality. To paraphrase George Orwell: “All people are created equal but some are more equal than others”. Power structures – whether they be political, theological, corporate or community-based – ensure that some people will be more powerful and most people less so.

female cousins became the first ever woman president and CEO of a multinational mining company – in a bastion of male chauvinism that is South America. We have witnessed women elected as prime ministers of numerous nations – although Margaret Thatcher wasn’t exactly the beacon of a “new frontier” when it came to the poor and down-trodden of the United Kingdom, or to the Argentinians who died in a war that she concocted (abetted by an accompanying narrative from the right-wing press) to save her political bacon. Vast swathes of the world have embraced (or are coming to embrace) that the people – all people – have a common investment in prosperity and happiness. In the 1990s, however, a movement gained momentum – largely led by some women academics – that, once again, tried to drive a wedge between the sexes. The so-called “post-modernists” appropriated a narrative that attempted to “deconstruct” the modernist paradigm leading to the facile new-speak that was “political correctness”. The less said, the better about that . . . and, thankfully, it has largely withered and waned. Of course, there are some places in the world where men have clung to a narrative that consigns women to the status of chattel. At the time of writing the fundamentalist Islamist group, Boko Haram (which means “Western or non-Islamic education is a sin”) still holds more than 200 girls from a Nigerian boarding school hostage . . . and has stated that it intends “sell them off at the market price”. This, and numerous other examples in more ignorant parts of the planet show that some men still have a long way to go in letting go of their bigoted assumptions. The essential truth (which can be a tricky concept) is that human relationships are based on respect, honour and trust, not some turgid power struggle based on anatomical and psychosocial differences. You cannot have friendship without first accepting these elemental facts (also tricky). And without friendship there can be no love. We are all part of the same whole.

What the movement that was born in the 1960s demanded, however, was an equivalence of “access” that was not based on gender. Yes, there certainly had been similar demands made in the past; the Suffragette movement in the late 1800s and early 1900s, for instance. But the gender revolution of the ’60s and ’70s demanded more than simply having the ability to vote in a government that would then create and implement policy according to its own socio-economic whimsy.

I’m not from Mars (as far as I know), you’re not from Venus. We’re all (as George Carlin says) from right here. Unless and until WE can learn to embrace our differences as well as our commonalities we will always be actors in the scripts that are written by others who have a particular agenda in mind while they write. Write your own story . . .

Merit-based, not gender-based, access to all aspects of societal structures became more and more “the norm”. One of my favourite

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yak fashion


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clutch from Prisoners of St petersburg. earrings model's own.

Black velvet dress by Miss Milne.


108 Black lace dress by Ali Charisma.

yak fashion


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dress by Jaime Lee mAjor.


110 dress by Ali Chrisma.

yak fashion


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dress by Ali Charisma.


bling

GRAMMES Salvador Bali talks to Teguh from Grammes. OK, bring the bling! Teguh Budi Raharjo and I’m from Solo, central Java and I have been in Bali for 15 years now, I am 37 years old . I’m surprised with all this jewellery hanging around. How long have you been in the business? Ten years now. Have you always been in the jewellery business? Well no actually, my background was in accounting. Do you design all your own jewelry? Yes. What is your target market? Midrange. What materials do you use? Silver, only silver. Gem stones? I use semi-precious stones, freshwater pearls, woods, leather, and that encompasses earrings, bracelets and rings and necklaces. Are your designs created in Bali and where does your creativity come from? Yes, I have my own workshop and I do employ some silversmiths, but most of my creativity comes from nature . . . it inspires me. I try to make new designs every week. I enjoy designing necklaces, earrings and rings the most.

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Do you do export? Yes. I also have two shops; in Seminyak another in Sanur, but I have jewellery on consignment in 13 other shops. Do you pay attention to trends? Trends are very important and I travel a lot, so I get lots of ideas from that. www.grammesbali.com kapal laut Laia Gil from jewellery company, Kapal-Laut, tells us what we need to know about style, writes Salvador Bali. Who’s in control here? I am, my name is Laia and I’m from Barcelona. How long have you been living in Bali? This December it will be 10 years already . . . you don’t realise it goes so fast. Time flies in Bali. How long has Kapal-Laut been in business? The first shop which was on Jalan Double Six was five and a half years ago. After the first test, we decided to expand to other areas around Bali. How many shops do you have now? Ten in all: Sanur, Seminyak, Kuta Square, Jimbaran and Ubud, all with the same brand design. We always choose prime locations, and Seminyak would be our flagship though. Looks like Bali has been very good to you? Yes, and also we try to be good to Bali too! Besides that, all the team works very


Atlas abounds. left: kapal laut.

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bling Clockwise from top left: Kapal Laut; shan shan; atlas; shan shan;

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hard. It’s a team success. Is your jewellery produced here in Bali? Yes, we try to work with good local suppliers. Some processes are done in Bali, some in Java and we source the world for the right quality components. Besides suppliers, do you work with hand carvers or specific villages? We work with a lot of people, we don’t have them working in-house, we make it to order, then we go to the craftsmen and we select the craftsmen according to the skill they have. After all these years, we know who will be the one to handle that particular model. Do you have any influences in jewellery designs? To be honest, not really, we try to be informed on the international market so we know which the trends are and we try to adopt the trend to our own style and we travel the world’s most important jewelry exhibitions. If you only follow the trend you have to change every six months – we’re here for quite a while, not just a pop-up store. What market is your jewellery aimed at? We focus at the mid to high range market in Bali, both residents and tourists (Indonesians and foreigners). Do you export as well? Yes, Kapal-Laut has some resellers overseas, so we are spreading the word! Design-wise, where does your imagination lie? Basically we’re focused on western minimalist, quite plane, a little bit of stones or pearls, or the design shape itself. We try to stay simple stylish, whatever goes with simple, goes with our designs, not meaning fast or cheap, but something you can wear on many different occasions. www.kapal-laut.com Shan-Shan The Yak puts on the glitz with renowned interior designer Zohra Boukhari who has opened Shan-Shan – a boutique selling feminine accessories, fantasy jewellery, bags and scarves. Tell us a bit about yourself and your connection with jewellery. Zohra Boukhari, from Morocco, grew up in Belgium. I love travelling, and every time I go to any country I like to take some jewellery in different kinds of styles from the villages I visit. I always try to find something very special. I then put all this jewellery together as eclectic collections. Do you also look at trends? I do, and let’s say I go to India I do try to see what’s going on there and so on. But I like very much antique style jewellery. So you’re dealing on an international market and your customers do not go to your outlet for a particular style? Not really, but maybe when I mix all the things together I have a plan and it’s a style, it’s a Shan-Shan collection style. Our age range is from six to 86 . . . something for everybody. What kind of statement are you trying to make? For me, that would be bringing colours, light, happy small touches that make a difference, you don’t have to wear the same jewelry all the time, so to change according to what you wear. So I try to make comfortable prices and styles. I believe any woman can find what she’s looking for. What is your price range? From Rp. 25,000 to Rp.600,000 – good prices for good quality. Import and export as well? Yes. What materials do you use? Mostly metals, pearls, beads, copper, fabrics – no silver or gold. Do you work in Bali? Yes we do, overseas if I find what I like, but we produce in Bali. I deal with people who have

reputations and they deal with craftsmen and different villages. Most of the time I try to buy from the craftsmen directly. Our jewellery is more like handmade, bracelets, necklaces and earrings. How many stores to date? Three stores here in Bali and we just opened up one in Paris. We want to open more . . . How long has the jewellery bug been biting you? Been a long time already, but I have a home linen accessory company and what I have done was to put my jewellery with my home linen – when I make a table setting I will put napkin holders with jewellery designs and this is how the idea started. It worked very well and then I started to travel with my two daughters – ages 15 and 19 and they wanted to choose the jewellery with me. I said okay, if we do that let’s make a shop together, a ladies shop. I actually love jewellery, I have been at it a long time. I’m a collector and I was selling individual pieces before the shop, so my goal is to satisfy most women. Atlas Pearls Atlas Pearls Company GMs Sonia Mackay-Coghill and Pierre Falloud give a heads-up to The Yak about the enduring role of the pearl in decorating the human body. Who what and where make up Atlas Pearls and Perfumes Ltd? Atlas is an ASX listed company with head offices and retail stores in both Perth, Western Australia and Bali, Indonesia. It employs in excess of 800 people. Today, Atlas has an enviable reputation as a global leader in eco-pearling, specialising in the highly sought after quality South Sea white and silver pearls with our farms spread across the Indonesian archipelago in Bali, Flores, Alor and West Papua. Atlas is a fully integrated business. We own and operate several pearl farms, manage loose pearl distribution, have in-house jewellery manufacturing capabilities and operate numerous retail outlets. - GM Jewellery, Cosmetics & Perfumes, Sonia Mackay-Coghill. Why Bali? Bali is ideally located in the pristine waters of the South Seas. The islands around Bali provide beautiful natural oyster beds for the pinctada maxima shell, which produces the most superb white pearls in the world. After over 20 years developing our pearl farms in the waters off Bali we have pioneered some of the most sophisticated farming practices globally. Through that time we have had an equal commitment to investing in the local communities in which we operate, refining the skills of local Balinese women in the art of oyster seeding, through to the harvesting of the pearls. - GM Pearling Pierre Falloud. Where is your jewellery marketed? (SM-C) Bali is the epicentre of the launch of our new retail brand, AYU. The diverse profile of people visiting provides an ideal platform for us to validate our design and customer service ethos. How would you describe your designs? (PF) Our design ethos is centred on the simple beauty of the South Seas pearl, designing infinitely wearable pieces that reflect lifestyle, enduring beauty and playfulness. How long has the company been going? (SM-C) We have been the farmers of these pearls for more than 20 years and are now looking forward to applying our deep insight and passion to our new jewellery range. Are you making other products in addition to jewellery? (SM-C) We are. AYU will also release a lifestyle fragrance and body indulgence range that captures the essence of the South Seas islands, incorporating pearl extracts. Do you cater to a specific trends or fashions? (SM-C) Ours are enduring designs that will live with the wearer for a lifetime Where do you get your design ideas from? (SM-C) We begin and end with the pearl. Each pearl speaks for itself and has an individual beauty. Our design challenge is creating enough space to allow the pearl to reveal its inner beauty. 115


passions

Monty West keeps his head down and gives us the heads-up on the best places on Bali for a round or two of the royal and ancient game of golf. Photos: Lucky 8.

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grip and rip.

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passions nirwana.

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Bali Handara

Bali National

“THAT outfit is a bit purple, mate”. That’s how my day began.

SO you know when friends invite you over after telling you that they have fixed up their house or villa? Or added a swimming pool? Or a balé? Then you go over and . . . well it’s nice. That is how I approached Bali National Golf Club.

My playing partner didn’t understand until I explained that these were the colours of my Scottish ancestors. Colours carefully chosen for one simple reason – I was going into the jaws of one of Bali’s volcano’s to play golf. I had not been playing particularly well and I needed all the help I could get. From the moment you turn off the road, you know that you are entering a special place. This is Bali’s oldest golf course. Set beside a lake inside a volcano at 1,142 metres above sea level The clubhouse reminded me of some of the Mid-Century houses I had visited in Palm Springs. Architecture buffs will love it. The course itself is fair, challenging and fun to play. We played the first nine twice on the day and the second time around, with the benefit of having some course knowledge, it was eminently playable. A short, friendly par five 1st which you can overwhelm if you know exactly where to drive. For those finding their game it offers you two friendly shots around the bunkers and ditch before having to find your first green. The greens run true and have good slope on them. But if you put the ball online, it will stay there and roll true. Nice speed. I had been a little caught up in finding my game. But it seems my ancestors had answered my calls by the par four 5th. After a few rounds of struggling with my driver, I had nailed one up the middle. As I stood over my drive that Scottish mist came creeping over the face of the caldera and I became struck at the majesty of the place, and the fact that I was playing golf inside a volcano. The climate at that altitude was perfect for me. Much cooler – my brain wasn’t boiling and this golf course was totally enchanting. This is my type of golf course – a course of substance not trying to be something that it is not. The third hole has to be one of the best holes on Bali. Really well designed – stroke index one on the course. A good drive to the right place and then your approach needs to be fired across a wee ravine (ancestors again) to a tricky green. As we walked to the next tee we could hear the ceremonial music from the local village. Just like the clouds it wafted in and out of our golfing experience. This is definitely a place I will be visiting again. Richard, the new GM, is enthusiastic and shared with us the many upgrades he is undertaking, and his plans to develop the resort. Rooms and cottages on site all get a stunning view of the lake and the sunset, which was truly magnificent. I have spent the last four years playing music at sunset in Bali at Ku De Ta and Rock Bar and I thought I had seen pretty much every variation of a sunset you could see. But that was something else across the lake. My playing partner agreed.

However this renovation is shout from the rooftop “NICE”. Job well done indeed. Easily the best kept course now on the island. With the renovation you now get the best of both worlds – an established golf course that is also immaculate. I once had the pleasure of playing Wentworth two days after the World Matchplay Final and Bali National is at that standard. No doubt it will one day host tournaments. The First at Bali National is a cracking start to any round. A sweeping long bunker running up the left side of the fairway, waiting for any pulled drives. If you hit a good drive it is still a decent five-iron out from an elevated sloping green. And what nice greens these are. True, fast, even and fair. But challenging. Quick scout during our round and you can see that the greenkeepers will have a few tricky pin placements up their sleeves if they want to take it up a notch. Enjoyed the par three 6th with massive tier in the green and the par four 3rd which requires good strategic golf and placement from the tee. The front nine wanders its way through hills and tree-lined fairways and you do get to see some great views of the ocean at Nusa Dua. Loved the 10th mainly because I was lucky enough to birdie it. The back nine is a lot flatter and offers you some good chances to post low scores. Coming towards the end of our round and we get the two new holes at Bali National. The TPC style Island Green 17th can make or break a scorecard. But it is the 18th that I enjoyed most. It looks a lot harder from the tee than it plays. A good strategic long iron will leave you a short iron in over water to the green, which sits perfectly in front of the clubhouse terrace. The clubhouse is well thought out too. Two levels: entertainment and reception upstairs and great changing rooms below. The Restaurant Terrace is awesome for kicking back and watching other players approach the 18th. I am going to go out there and say this is singularly the biggest turnaround that I have ever seen at a golf course. The attention to detail that the GM, Cliff, and the new owners of Bali National have put into the course deserves the utmost commendation. I always find myself saying if you are going to do something, or fix something, that you should do it once and do it right. Bali National golf course I take my hat off to you. You have truly raised the bar for golf on the island. www.balinationalgolf.com

The mountain, the golf course, the tranquility has put a spell on me and I will for sure be going back to Bali Handara for more. www.balihandaracountryclub.com

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Nirwana

bali beach

ON we march towards the Holy Grail of Golf in Bali – Nirwana.

BALI Beach Golf Course in Sanur has become a secret little haunt of mine – a place where we merry band of brothers (nee hackers) meet for a nice social round of golf at a price that is super friendly too.

When I started playing golf back in London I dreamed about playing golf courses like this. Luckily for me Nirwana – located a stone's throw from Tanah Lot – is the course I have been fortunate to play the most on Bali. It just never gets old. The moment you turn off the road you get the sense that this is a statement golf course. Winding in and out of trees and along a cliff with one of the worlds great temples as a backdrop. Fairytale golf indeed. My ancestors had called ahead and lined me up a young Scottish chap as my playing partner. Steven, the new director of golf, was a superb companion for my round – a great golfer with big plans and ideas to elevate and improve an already magnificent golf experience. We set off on the nice, welcoming first two holes. The par four 1st plays quite easily and friendly and is a birdie opportunity for the better golfers. For sure you are in Asia as you tee off over the rice fields, being careful to keep it to the right of those cavernous bunkers. From there a fairly simple short iron into a welcoming green. As you come to the 3rd, 4th and 5th things start to toughen up a touch. These can be extremely awkward and are all tough scoring par fours. Make it through those and the par five 6th is where the course starts to kick into dream golf. I love this stretch of the next three holes. It is possible to get on the 6th in two shots. Your approach with the ocean behind the green is magnificent and it is hard to keep your concentration because waiting for you in full view behind the green is the legendary par three 7th. You have to be on the tee of the 7th to appreciate the majesty of this hole. It must put the fear of god into most beginner golfers. It plays 170 yards from the blue tees and the wind is usually helping from behind. For me an easy six iron does the trick. If you can for one moment ever take your eyes of the stunning vista and the magical Tanah Lot to focus on the green, it’s actually not that tough a shot. Dharma, the local teaching pro, plays this hole from the left edge of the green with a little fade. Works every time. Standout holes for me are the14th, another par three on the ocean across a gorge and WAY harder than the 7th as it always plays into the wind. Once again the 17th gives you a make-orbreak decision for your round. If you can push a drive up to close to the ditch you are in a great position for a low score. But there are bunkers left and right and a ditch in front of a sloping green. The clubhouse is well established and the restaurant has a great view of a few holes on the course. My favourite way to rap things up at Nirwana is to slip over to the hotel and watch the sunset over Tanah Lot temple with a nice cold drink on the TLC café. www.nirwanabaligolf.com

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I recently returned to playing golf after once being a good player and Sanur is exactly what I need. It only has nine holes. It forces you to actually play the course. Position and strategy, and in nine holes most of the clubs come out of the bag. Despite the beach name it is a parkland course. Weaving in and out of treelined fairways. This is a great place to learn to play golf and a perfect place to become a better golfer. The 1st demands that you lay up. Yes you can take out a driver and smash it close to the green, but from the outset this course is teaching you a good golf lesson – take what the course is offering you. If you can put hit it 180 to 200 yards towards the bunker on the right it will leave you a nice short iron into a welcoming green. The 2nd is a nice 165-yard par three – an honest golf hole with some water and trees waiting for errant shots. The 3rd again offers a risk/reward for long drivers but once again if you are playing “the hole” you leave it short of the ditch on the left side and have and mid iron to the green. Here is the thing about Sanur: it keeps you honest as a golfer. Makes you think. You can smack it but once you get in trouble at Sanur it is easy to rack up a big score. The caddies are great and here is the thing that I like most about playing Sanur: I can walk the course. I love to walk the course. To think about or not think about what I am doing wrong or right. For me golf is a walking meditation on some levels . . . a test of character and control. Herky-jerky cart driving on resorts never really leaves me in the right frame of mind to hit the shot. Caddies are great but often my partners will get upset if you get the wrong read on the green. Well guys, here is a thought: read your own putts. It’s your ball and your name on the scorecard. Caddies are just there to offer some friendly guidance. The clubhouse is super casual and friendly. I always look forward to my mie goreng after my round and a thirst quenching Bintang. Putting and chipping facilities are decent. The staff are super friendly and helpful.

www.balibeachgolfcourse.com


clockwise from top left: bali beach sanur; bali handara; bali beach sanur; bali handara;.

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oral pleasures

La Finca is an urbane dining destination that brings the Basque country to Bali, writes Ondy Sweeting. photos: lucky 8.

I can’t remember what we were eating at the funky La Finca, the year-old tapas restaurant on the bends past Batu Belig, when one of the people at my table was staring in deep appreciation. It could have been that she was swooning over a taster of stupendously succulent salami, which is from the prized black pigs that feed purely on acorns, set over a paprika confit and quail egg. Or when she dipped a piece of the calamari breaded in a crispy “secret” recipe and fried to perfection and dipped into the zingy squid ink aioli. Perhaps it was when we were munching our way through croquetas de chorizo y canela that were balls of fluffy béchamel flavoured with cinnamon and a flick of chorizo. Or when we had excruciatingly tender octopus that was served in traditional Galician style with soft-boiled potatoes drizzled in a fine olive oil and sprinkled with paprika. Maybe it was the truffle garlic prawns in a subtle white wine sauce. The entire table stopped talking for several seconds with the notso-simple salad of rucola, pumpkin, feta cheese and mint with a delicate lemon zest vinaigrette – the thought of which is making my mouth water as I write. Not a fan of pumpkin in salads, I gingerly skewered a piece and piled on the rucola and the result was so good that I am now bound to a life of looking for such specimens. The star of this salad was the hauntingly delicious savoury toffee of caramelised almonds. But I recalled her glittering smile when she said, “who would ever believe that such a gorgeous place is behind that fence?” La Finca opened a year ago – by the interestingly exotic Thomas Mack and Spanish chef, Asier Arroyo, who is from Bilbao, which is the centre of Basque Country – as a rustic Iberian outfit.

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“We set out to create a traditional Ibizan restaurant that would become a local among people living in Bali. The name La Finca means ‘farmhouse’ and we produce artisan foods from breads to beef and desserts,” Thomas says. And Thomas has nailed it with rambling lush gardens, a wood-fired oven and hip design that makes this restaurant an easy space to kick back and eat and drink well. Fairy lights flicker in the trees, kittens slink around and flowers flutter from their vines onto the tables below as if instructed by Bernado Bertalucci. Yes, this actually happened. The garden is almost as large as the dining areas and it makes a great meeting place for smokers, though table puffing is permitted. It is also a very pleasant postprandial hang. La Finca is all about the devotion to cooking soul food that fills the heart with joy. “Our motto is Alimenta el Alma, which translates ‘to feed the soul’ and we love it when people linger for hours after eating their meals,” Thomas says. “It is a place to enjoy and we often see the same faces here again and again. We have not aimed to give expensive and elite European food but to produce beautiful dishes and a local bistro atmosphere. I really wanted to recreate my childhood memories of spending holidays in Ibiza and going through the agricultural areas and stopping at these huge rambling farmhouse restaurants that are passed through generations and are always full of happy people enjoying themselves.” Post tapas we were presented with La Finca’s signature meat dish; steak carne a la peidra de la finca. This fabulous and famous hot-stone grill arrives with much fanfare. First there are three different dipping sauces; chilli aioli, straight aioli and chilli oil. There was also sea salt, chilli salt and an excellent tangy herb salt. A smoking hot stone plate arrives along with a slab of sliced Australian rib-eye steak that you cook yourself. The aroma and rising smoke from the sizzling steak is a sensory assault. Then you get to dip it and eat it. Vegetarians and the feint hearted might want to pass on this dish but for full throttle carnivores it is a celebration. My fave was the herb salt, which put some spark into the rich flavour of the beef. The drinks list is a treatise on Spanish drinking habits with four different types of sangria that conform to recipes with high-end brandies, Triple Sec and spirits. One of our table shuns white wine but became an immediate turncoat and embraced the sangria blanco. The wine list is long and impressive with a clutch of solid red, whites and Cava from Spain and many more from France, Italy, Australia, New Zealand Germany, Argentina and Chile. The cocktails are an inspiration. I have certainly tasted things at La Finca that I would be in no hurry to order again, but every time I go there are fewer misfires, which suggests that the kitchen of about 20 people is settling into its niche. I was happy to sink into the wonderful Spanish flavours of bittersweet truffle chocolate that was dense and rich, while the cheesecake – which is the chef’s granny’s recipe – was creamy and the churros crunchy and light. La Finca is the local resto that Thomas set out to build. It attracts expats, locals and tourists. I always find people I know when I visit. Families abound and kids table-hop. Like every good Spanish diner that I have enjoyed in my current hometown – and there have been a few – La Finca’s reservation phone number has found a home in my phone. Download yPod our iPhone App from the App Store for details on location, reservations and more about La Finca. tapas and tipple.

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oral pleasures

Sarah Douglas dines in style at St. Regis Resort’s signature restaurant.

There’s always a tingle of anticipation when dinner at St Regis’ Kayuputih restaurant is suggested, it rates amongst Bali’s most stylish and a meal here is always a celebration of the finest things in life. Recreating tradition runs to the very roots of Bali’s St. Regis Resort. Building on the reputation of one of New York’s iconic hotels, the resort has a feeling of timeless grace that belies the startling revelation that it is only five years old this year. St. Regis raised the bar for Bali resorts following its lavish opening and although countless new properties have followed in its wake, it has managed to maintain an incredibly high standard. Dining here has always been a highlight and the signature Kayuputih restaurant, opened by former executive chef, Oscar Perez, still holds its own on our increasingly crowded dining scene. Oscar searched for local chefs who were able to grasp his own concept of French fine dining mingled with Japanese sensibilities and he discovered two talented Balinese chefs who now hold their own incredibly well. Oscar has relocated to the Singapore property but his legacy lives on. Agung Gede is the chef de cuisine at Kayuputih and his humility defies his skill. Just brilliant. To celebrate five years, the resort has introduced a surprise dinner based on a degustation concept they have titled, Pancatanmatra, a nod to the Balinese concept of the five senses of sight, smell, taste, sound and touch. The fact that most of the sounds emanate from happy diners detracts not at all. The menu is created around the diner and is a “surprise” in the sense that there is no actual menu. Diners are first asked about their likes and dislikes and then dishes arrive. When I ask Agung Gede, our softly spoken chef, whether he just fossicks through the fridge and decides what to cook, he replies, “something like that”. I somehow doubt his fridge looks anything like mine. The experience is elevated even further by the flamboyant, awardwinning sommelier, Harald, who also asks what we like and then confers with the chef to match the wines to the dish. Any meal that begins with fine French champagne is on the right track, to my mind. The meal marches elegantly forward with beautiful fresh seafood, foie

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gras, beef and a signature dessert from French patissier, Vincent. Among the highlights was a beautifully presented local prawn confit with caviar and gold leaf, served with a citrus peanut crunch, a sphere of citrus dressing and a warm bisque on the side . . . a joy to look at as much as to eat. This is the haute cuisine that the airy seaside restaurant is famous for at its best. Perfectly seared foie gras is indulgence on a plate and despite all sorts of masterful culinary tricks, is so heavenly to eat that the quiet theatrics transcend the dish and marries perfectly with sublime skill. The smoky sweetness of a Sauterne is the perfect wine to pick up all the nuances of flavour. Nothing is overdone and there isn’t a single element that doesn’t add to the dish. Despite the consummate skill, there is a sense that everything has been pared back to divine simplicity. A beef course was bound to arrive and Harald served a gorgeous Austrian red wine, in a pinot style with it. Once again, a perfect match. The seared wagyu was dressed with a jus enriched with beets and accompanied by white asparagus dressed with Iberico ham and baby carrots. Seductive? Oh yes. Dessert is always a highlight and Harald once again manages to make it even better with a beautiful Tokay – the authentic Hungarian wine apparently famed for its restorative properties, but mostly loved for its earthy sweet quality. It paired beautifully with a miraculous dessert that played on a carrot theme, spiced with lime and delivered in an impossibly thinly spun sugar dome. This isn’t food you would eat every day, it’s a total celebration. The Pancatanmatra menu has proved incredibly popular with guests, with as many of 60 per cent of diners opting for the surprise menu. Don’t be surprised if you love it too. St Regis will celebrate their fifth anniversary with a series of events throughout the year, so stay tuned to indulge. www.stregisbali.com Download yPod our iPhone App from the App Store for details on location, reservations and more about Kayuputih.


pure goodness.

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DiningbyDesign James Watling and friend go for a gourmet gallivant in Uluwatu . . .

BEGINNING his career in native Germany, Kai Kauder has been on a round the world voyage of discovery for the last 20 years taking in as many cuisines as he has countries during work stints in France, Spain, Kuwait, Thailand (where he garnered a Tatler award for exceptional cuisine and services) and now Indonesia. His present stop is at Uluwatu for Anantara and he’s on a mission to bring an intimate dining experience to the cliff-tops of “Impossibles” surf break. For sure he’s got the view to play with, plus an incredible venue and a diverse repertoire of recipes at his disposal, all we need now is a bottle of bubbles and a table for two. Running the dining operation at Anantara Uluwatu has somehow managed to afford Kai the time to launch Dining by Design – his own private dining concept within the grounds, perhaps described as the ultimate romantic occasion the chef has prepared a five-course tasting menu with a choice of Asian, World and Vegetarian options, and an Extravaganza Menu that leaves little to the imagination when it comes to the inclusion of exceptionally fine ingredients. The inspiration behind the menu is clearly apparent with dishes such as the Freshwater Javanese Crayfish Ravioli with Braised Baby Fennel served on a bold cognac and olive oil bisque or the Nori Risotto – crispy sea bass fillet and wasabi foam with soya reduction. Kai’s fascination with blending new-world fusion cuisine with traditional European and Asian dishes. The results are nothing short of fantastic and it’s refreshing to see a chef that is so genuinely passionate about constantly pushing the boundaries of traditional pairings and incorporating so many diverse ingredients into his plates. The chef, it turns out, has a bit of a thing for sauces and it’s evidenced in almost every dish that comes out of his kitchen, the White Tomato Cappuccino with Baked Scallop is testament to his methodical approach to flavours with a perfectly balanced creamy texture and subtle tomato characteristics . . . all that’s missing is an olive foam to offset the sweetness of the potage. When not marrying

Asian influences to his offerings Kai sets a straight course to classic French cuisine with a slightly modernised twist – the Veal Tenderloin with a Tiger Prawn Centeron Turned Vegetables with Port Jus and the Duo of Duck; Pan Fried Foie Gras and Duck Breast with Celeriac Puree, Beetroot Potato and Truffle Foam are heavyweight Francophile plates . . . not for the feint of heart or those that don’t possess the appetite. Always on the lookout for something new we were particularly impressed with the fanfare dessert, a wholly original Karthauser German Dumpling with a passion fruit centre, vanilla cream and fresh strawberries. Basically a brioche take on the Baked Alaska this is a wholly delectable addition to the menu and the perfect way to round off the meal. Good luck finding your way up the stairs to the entrance of Anantara Uluwatu after indulging in this. A lot lighter than expected the dessert works especially well with the sorbet although one to share would suffice after five very decadent courses. Indeed if the Extravaganza Menu sounds a little too indulgent for some then the chef and his team are more than happy to consult with guests to tailor-make the menu together and even sit down and brainstorm particular tastes and dietary requirements to create the ultimate gourmet dining experience. With an absolutely breathtaking setting, impeccable service and gourmet indulgences galore Dining By Design is a cut above the cliffside dining scene on Bali’s billion dollar bukit stretch. Reservations essential. Pool Island and Viewing Deck dining options are available during all seasons. Price starts from IDR 2,300,000 per couple ++ without wine. www.bali-uluwatu.anantara.com Download yPod our iPhone App from the App Store for details on location, reservations and more about Anantara Uluwatu.

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a grown up club and diner makes its debut, writes Sarah Douglas.

Don’t you love a good surprise? Jenja is the latest in a string of new clubs, located, in the newly finished TS Suites in Jl. Nakula, Seminyak. Both an atmospheric nightclub and a restaurant it fills a unique place in Bali’s nightlife scene. Truth be told, I wasn’t expecting much, and sometimes life, and venues, can surprise you. The design by well-known local designer/architect Rob Sample, plays with the game Jenga in the design with an amazing roof fitted with sculptural wooden pieces. The mezzanine restaurant level leads down to the club. The twostorey back wall is fitted with glass “scales” that sparkle like a fish. It’s classy. The club downstairs is dark and smoky with a large bar and discreet tables. The restaurant level has an open kitchen, which runs the entire length of the venue. One long table runs down the centre and smaller tables overlook the nightclub level below. The menu is another unique feature. The chef is a whole other story. A 27-yearold former winner of Top Chef Middle East, Selma is a Palestinian who grew up in Jordan. Selma Abu Alia won the competition, which included a line-up of top chefs from the region, straight out of culinary college. That is a story in itself. She’s now running the show at Jenja with an impressive measure of confidence and skill. The menu does a lovely waltz between Asia and the Middle East and includes lots of tapas-style plates in addition to some delicious sharing plates, including a lamb dish with dates and vegetables that looked fabulous. We ate small – it was that sort of a week. The other surprise, which shouldn’t be really, is the owner. Formerly with Mint, he is best known as DJ Mamsa and he is Balinese tourism royalty. His dad is currently head of Bali Tourism Board and his parents are the much-loved owners of Segara Village. Altogether illuminating. The bartender is also no mean shakes – Izze is well known around town for his delicious organic infusions and concoctions. The manager is Mikael Vanneque who’s dad owns Ginger Moon and who’s uncle owns Sip wine bar and French restaurant. All in all a class act and not at all what I was expecting. Chef Selma came out to play for a little while. Her selection of small bites was

really enticing. Deftly handled, our culinary journey began with two Asian favourites, slow cooked pork belly and meltingly tender duck tucked into hand-made Chinese style buns. Pretty, juicy and tender all at the same time. We also sampled the crab-cakes; bite-sized spiced cakes topped with avocado and lime mousse and edible flowers. Nice texture, perfect hint of chilli, tasty and crispy; that’ s what you want. The final dish to arrive was a revelation. Looking for all the world like a saté lilit, a Balinese specialty – minced fish was skewered on lemongrass stalks and served in a lettuce wrap with mango, cucumber, a cashew dip and Japanese mustard. If ever there was a hybrid dish, this one leaned more towards the Middle East than appearances would suggest, and it was delicious, meaty and as good as Selma promised. M&M Catering, one of the island’s leading catering companies, set up the kitchen before Selma arrived. She set about deconstructing the menu in her own style but a few items remain. One of them arrived as dessert, alongside three pretty chocolate lollipops sitting up in a glass crusted with nuts and filled with nougat and candied orange. The deconstructed banana cheesecake however was a real highlight. A smear of banana cream beside a pile of cheesecake crumbs, topped with a rich lemony scoop of cream cheese, it tasted just like the real thing, a real star of a dessert. Selma promises more middle eastern-style desserts will come. The busy kitchen crew make a great sideshow, glamorous groups arrive and find a table or head out to the open air tables on the terrace. The nightclub doesn’t open until 10pm but the staff is already looking busy as we make our way to our next rendezvous, with Jenja looking for all the world like a grown up club and diner. www.jenjabali.com Download yPod our iPhone App from the App Store for details on location, reservations and more about Jenja.

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Merah Putih has become a must-visit dining destination that puts a new spin on traditional Indonesian cuisine, writes Ondy Sweeting.

IT takes some big cojones to create a mega-million-dollar upscale Indonesian restaurant in downtown Petitenget. But the three-way team behind Merah Putih Restoran Indonesia has pulled off a spectacular success. Jasper Manifold, Melissa McCabe and chef, Kieran Morland, have made such a mark on the Seminyak dining scene that similarly chic Indonesian dining venues are now popping up in the area. With uber elegant interiors of vaulted ceilings and lotus-like translucent columns that capture rainwater that cascades down pillars to be tanked, filtered and cleansed with advanced ozone technology, Merah Putih immediately sets a tone of great expectation. It is no surprise that Merah Putih’s design was shortlisted for the International Design and Architecture Awards 2013’s Restaurant Award. The dinner menu offers refined dishes for two diverse diets: that of elite Indonesians and jet-set psychos that love to eat their way around the globe. It has a “traditional” menu for purists who like their Indonesian food hot and spiced, and a “modern” menu that bends and twists into a feat of delicious fusion. A delicately scented pomelo martini was fresh with a cow kick of high-end vodka that was absorbed while we watched the mixologist dragging the flesh out of a young coconut to create a mojito with crushed mint and plenty of pizazz. A good start to any dining experience. Seasonally driven, each dish is made of produce procured from the cool hills of Bedugul and the best catches of fish and hand-selected meats daily. And the food … Dishes are served Indonesian style as sharing plates and instead of being presented with the very European breadbasket, diners are served a palettecleansing soup of either fish or chicken broth with shredded spring onion. Chef sent out three small signature dishes led by beef shin Bak Pao, which was a tender rendang with a smooth sambal tempered with chives and cucumber. The steamed bun holds together this taste bomb as if by magic, given it was as light as air. The next tasting plate was crispy boneless duck topped with a fine green mango rujak – or fresh mango and vegetable salad, basil leaves and kremes: crispy spiced flakes made from cooking juices and flour. It is quickly becoming clear that Chef Kieran knows his way around Indonesian

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cuisine. Last of the tasting plates was the most interesting and it has been known to make grown men turn to tofu as a regular food option. Tahu Isi Jamur, from the traditional menu, is tofu fritters stuffed with vegetables that have the standout taste sensation of shimeji and oyster mushrooms. A hearty and filling dish, this one sings to those who enjoy a light tempura with the full impact of protein and mega-flavour. Our single large plate was Ikan Bakar Sambal Matah – a classic whole chargrilled Jimbaran fish topped with fried eggplant and shallots. The white fish melted like butter under a hot knife and was as fresh as the sunrise. Two side dishes comprised fried cauliflower, which was crunchy and sweet and came with puffed rice while the nasi was a showstopper. Cooked with lemongrass, coconut and pandan and wrapped in a leaf, this rice is something that will trigger holiday memory cravings that could disturb your life. For those with a sweet tooth, hunt down the coffee pudding with crunchy toffee and gingerbread while a young coconut pudding was silky like pannacotta and topped with sweet mango ice cream and biscuit. Merah Putih has been embraced by the local dining scene and is constantly populated with an interesting mix from hipsters to honeymooning Indians and tables of locals and expats. The interiors alone make a visit to this restaurant a certainty for any design or style-junkie. Details have not been forgotten. A mezzanine floor that is reserved for parties protects the elegant ambience and the sound system is sophisticated enough to create a subtly hip vibe without bouncing around the cavernous space. The wine room took 11 months to develop and has an excellent range of wines that have been expertly paired to the menu. But, most importantly, do not forget the killer cocktails. www.merahputihbali.com

Download yPod our iPhone App from the App Store for details on location, reservations and more about Merah Putih.


stylish spin on traditional fare.

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Let's go.

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oral pleasures


a little bit street and a little bit sea And a little bit rock and roll, sarah douglas visits urchin. photos: lucky 8.

The latest diner to open in Seminyak is a mix of cool, chic and street smarts as yet another of Sydney’s big-time chefs opens his own version of Bali-by-the-sea. The concept behind Urchin began with the idea of opening a restaurant that felt like you were having dinner at a friend’s home. It morphed into something a whole lot sleeker than that and now, according to chef, Steven Skelly, it’s more like the clifftop villa experience. Despite the fact that the sea is one block away. “When we first conceived it, we had in mind a beach house feel. When we got the design back from Singapore, we loved it and then I realised I was going to have to trick things up a bit more, without being a total wanker. It is now more the house on the cliff, a little bit lofty but still a welcoming place that’s soothing and has great food,” he says. Sleek and comfortable, Urchin isn’t a large space but it’s perfect for what this chef had in mind. The basis is seafood and hence the name but there’s a twinkle in his eye when he breaks it down for us, a name he conceived for all the right reasons, murky though they might be. “I didn’t want fine dining, definitely not, so when I considered Urchin, I played it over and thought of the street urchin alongside the sea variety; gives it an edge that also takes into account our street-side location.” Having gone through the transformation of Sydney’s elegant and iconic Pier Restaurant, to the fast-paced and more casual waterfront eatery, The Sailor’s Club, he knows more than a thing or two about trends in dining. He also is no stranger to Bali and knew instinctively what he wanted to create here. Which doesn’t mean to say you won’t get a fine dinner here. As with any good restaurant, things begin with great produce and Steven has sourced some of the best seafood suppliers and put a few menu items on that Sydney-siders will fondly remember. The menu revolves around seafood but this talented chef believes that many local restaurants don’t do it justice and can wax lyrical about the virtues of the local seafood when it is respectfully cooked with flavours that compliment and textures that sing both fresh little ditties and soulful swansongs. It comes raw, cured, stuffed into pasta and tossed through it, with skin as crunchy as crackling and succulent flesh that thrives on the flavour combinations, it’s a real celebration of the bounties of the sea. An airy terrace fronts the street at Urchin, the restaurant illuminated behind glass doors. A raw bar is set up at the entrance where oysters and urchins mingle with sashimi and cured seafood. The open kitchen at the centre of the room is a highlight as a large wooden table serves as the plating area. It’s interactive in a very modern way and does bring to mind eating at a friend’s, complete with the diner being part of the kitchen action.

Our dinner began with little crispy cones of salmon tartare, a tricky cocktail treat we have had before, however this one was as it should be; perfectly seasoned, plump salmon bites in a still-crispy cone. Hats off to a nice start. The salmon pastrami is a much-loved dish that he has brought with him and many will know and love already; slim cured salmon pieces served with crisp sourdough and dressed with olive oil were fragrant with fresh herbs. Roasted scallops was also served for this first course – plump and juicy, roasted to a golden brown and served with cauliflower, kipfler potatoes and dressed with an aromatic chicken jus. It was one of the menu items that had already caught my eye and the dish was subtle, textured and silky. Perfectly cooked fish is the ambition of this UK-born chef and we were served it in two incarnations. Steven will only buy whole fish – a measure of its freshness – and his team will break it down. A roasted barramundi was served with a Japanese flourish that included braised cos, shimeji and an earthy and light mushroom consommé. The bread-crusted Hamachi was a thick, white fillet with a beautiful flesh that was served with red pepper, seared squid and lemon, and somewhere some almond sauce made it to the plate. One gets the sense that inspirational moments happen a lot in this kitchen and when playing with fresh produce, seafood particularly, one needs to work with the strengths of the daily catch and here is where experience really counts. “Fish without skin simply does not cut it. We cook our fish on the skin side until it is crunchy and has a bite to it,” Steve says. Both of our fish dishes had wonderful crispy skin that proved the perfect juxtaposition to the creamy, soft flesh of the fish. The service is friendly and sweet and although some of the menu items are a bit hard to pronounce for the local staff, they are professional throughout and still disarmingly honest. Front-of-house is run by another professional who comes from Australia, Kathy Wilmott, who ran front-of-house at another iconic Sydney restaurant, Quay, and her experience is evident in the service staff. There is nowhere to hide at Urchin, with all the action played out in front of the guests, part of the attraction here. We had started with cocktails, enjoyed a lovely, crisp riesling with dinner and then enjoyed dessert with a gorgeous glass of red. Chocolate was on our minds but the chef insisted that we try the passionfruit souffle as well. Despite the extra hours at the gym, we were glad he had. With a fabulous wine list, created by our own Katrina Valkenberg from Winehouse, a great service team and a racy cocktail list, Urchin is sure to place Steven Skelly on Bali’s map, much to the loss of his legion of fans in Sydney. C’est la vie! Lucky us. www.urchinbali.com

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ORAL PLEASURES

Ondy Sweeting takes the family to a place she’d rather not talk about . . .photos: lucky 8.

Some stories should not be told, and this is one of them. However, in the interests of professionalism (the boss told me to do it), I am sharing what deserves to remain a well-kept secret. Zibiru is a gorgeous neighborhood restaurant, tucked away discreetly in Jl. Drupadi, not so far from the madding crowds, but far enough. It is a favourite haunt for those who have become acquainted with the fabulous food, the intimate atmosphere and the genuine hospitality. “Sweet” doesn’t begin to conjure the pocketed garden eatery that exists less than a metre from the tiny connecting road that runs between two major thoroughfares; Oberoi Road and Jl Dhyana Pura. Formerly a Viennese café, it retains a home-style charm furnished in shabby-chic Balinese furniture and an upstairs/downstairs layout that allows for privacy and intimacy. It’s perfectly laid out for both romance and celebration. Chef and co-owner, Luigi Calcagno can really cook. With a madefrom-scratch approach, including fresh organic produce from Zibiru’s “environmentally positive” farm. The lights are twinkling and an acoustic jazz band is setting up in the garden when we arrive for dinner. Luigi has only just been told we’re arriving but he is still cool and charming as he greets us. We choose a family-style table in the garden and greet some friends who are also having dinner there. Regulars, and there are many of those. A glance at the menu tells a story of regional Italian cuisine that includes hand-made pasta, a host of appetisers and salads and some main courses that promise more substantial and equally appealing offerings. It’s a fairly comprehensive menu and filled with temptation . . . you want it all. Three generations of us are having dinner together and everyone is happy. Makes a nice change. Luigi takes over and hardly raises a sweat, playing chef and host with equal amounts of charm. There is a really personal feeling about Zibiru, and we start with appetisers which he chooses. These range from a fabulous fresh tuna tartare, shaped as a heart and mingled with avocado and mango, a perfectly textured square of Parmagiana Gratin, grilled eggplant layered with home-made tomato sauce and topped with mozzarella, it is one of the best I have ever eaten. Alongside we also have a gorgeous basket filled with tiny prawns, calamari rings and baby octopus, Fritturina, fried to perfection with a delicate batter coating. Finally we are served a selection of cured meats, Tagliare, served on a board that comes with slivers of first-rate parmesan dipped in a tiny bowl of honey,

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there wasn’t much left of any of it. In typical Italian style the main courses were three pastas together with a snapper dish that was on the specials board that night; stunning white fillets of fish dressed with artichoke and potato, peas and mint. Delicate little gnocchi, Gnochhi Norcina was dressed with Italian sausage and a creamy black pepper sauce while hand rolled Strozzapreti Ortolano was simply dressed with a balanced sauce of Italian bacon, cherry tomatoes, zucchini and basil thrown together with a fragrant olive oil. The Caramelle was a big hit, little pasta bows filled with ricotta cheese and spinach in a sage butter sauce. The pasta dishes were all wonderfully light and Luigi points out to us that eating pasta is actually good for you. Mind this carbophobes. “Pasta is the most well balanced meal. It contains 100 -120 grams of carbohydrate mingled with protein and vegetables. Italians are the second longest living people on the planet, there’s a reason for that,” Luigi says. Born in Rome, trained in classical French cuisine and with experience in Italy, New York and Brazil, he has 18 year's experience as a chef and clearly knows how to cook. The French influence can be seen in many of the dishes, although predominantly Italian there is a finesse here that turns Nonna into Una Donna di alta classe, to mix my genders. Before dessert there is one more thing that has to be said; Luigi and his silent partner Giotto, are not only incredibly charming, they are also very handsome. While this shouldn’t matter, well . . . Desserts get the girls squealing, in a good way. Chocolate fondant cake is the way to my girl’s heart and this one did the trick, beautifully; another heart-shaped creation that oozed gooey chocolate on to the crisp biscuit and creamy vanilla ice cream beside it. An open apple tart topped with caramelised custard and to really sink the diet a dark chocolate mousse. “This is heaven!” shouted the young diners as we fell into a pleasant dreaminess accompanied by the standing bass, the steel guitar and the little drum set playing classic jazz tunes beneath the starry sky. Zibiru has its fans, many of them, but while it is well priced and seductive with great food and charming hosts, I am a little nervous that once the secret is out, I’ll have to fight for a reservation. Some stories should not be told. www.zibiru.com Download yPod our iPhone App from the App Store for details on location, reservations and more about Zibiru.


get personal at zibiru.

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oral pleasures

ccc sarah douglas connects the c's at sofitel's cut catch cucino. Maxie’s mother must have had an inkling that her son would go far in life when she christened him Maximillian. He now introduces himself as Maxie-Millian, a talented Indonesian chef who has seen the world and come back to tell a wealth of culinary tales. Increasingly we are seeing young Indonesian chefs scoring top positions in many of Bali’s best restaurants and the smile on this guy’s dial says he’s at the top of his game and loving it. Chef de Cuisine at Sofitel’s signature restaurant, Cut Catch Cucino – CCC to us – Maxie oversees the concept that combines three restaurants in one. The night we dined was relatively quiet and so we were indulged with personal attention from this gregarious chef. A glistening, fat Hokkaido scallop was served as an amuse bouche, draped in finely sliced apple and fennel with an icy cold glass of French champagne to start – light and beautiful it provided a definite heads up for the sophisticated menu that followed. Popping in and out to introduce each course, Maxie prepared a menu that had all the hallmarks of a five-star meal with a range of beautiful ingredients prepared with confidence and style, yet never overworked. Allowing the ingredients to shine is the hallmark of a chef who understands the integrity of each element of a dish. A black angus carpaccio followed; soft and once again simply dressed with a creamy aioli on the side and a fragrant truffle dressing. The fish course that followed was a standout: a firm nori-crusted fillet of sparkling white cod, served with soba noodles and a light, clear, dashi consommé poured over it at the table, a truly expressive dish with sophisticated character and perfect textures that played brilliantly off one another. The red wine flowed along with the conversation as our table moved on to a meltingly tender beef course, a high-grade, grilled wagyu tenderloin served with

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braised shallots and a vegetable fricassee. Considering his extended experience in the Middle East, especially in Dubai, something made me ask whether he and Chef Mandif, whose restaurant, Teatro, has been wowing Bali diners of late, was a friend. “He was my culinary teacher at school, that’s when we first met. Yes, we’re friends now and enjoy getting together for late night food and a few drinks,”Maxie says. There is something of the teacher in the student who has graduated to be one of Bali’s leading chefs. Both share a passion for food, a quiet skill and a humility that belies their expertise. Around us the spacious, three-pronged restaurant carried on the business of cooking and serving diners, each section sparkling and busy despite the Monday night lull. Dessert arrived in the form of a delicate crème brulee with a spiced crumble, a tangle of berries, pear and yoghurt. The remaining champagne was a perfect flourish for the creamy sweetness of the dessert. As our evening drew to its inevitable conclusion, our group wandered out into the starlit night, the resort bathed in a soft light. Maxie was on hand to greet us as we left to fade into the night, satiated, satisfied and suitably indulged. Sofitel’s reputation is in good hands with this team, plenty of style and experience has put the Bali resort on our radar and promises a lot more in the months to come. www.sofitel.com Download yPod our iPhone App from the App Store for details on location, reservations and more about Cut Catch Cucino.


so sofitel.

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the yak checks out six of the best spots to while away some happy hours . . .

THE origins of the Happy Hour are a little murky. The earliest recordings can be traced to the US Navy, when the wives used to organise semi-weekly smokers on board the ships. It also appears to have become the “fashion” during Prohibition but the less said about that, the better. Needless to say, we’re happy someone thought of it. Pharrell Williams may as well dance his way in our direction, because some of Bali’s best venues can be enjoyed for less, with perks in some cases, during these legendary happy hours. Woobar Swoon now as you imagine yourself in one of Bali’s coolest venues watching the sun sink into the ocean, serenaded by international DJs and feeling like you’re at the pointy end of life. Woobar at W offers two-for-one signature cocktails for Rp160,000++ from 4pm to 6pm each week, Monday to Thursday. Upgrade to two W bellinis for Rp250,000 and watch the sunset in style. A range of light and tasty bites is also available with plates starting from Rp110,000. This is the ticket for those who believe that happiness is a half priced cocktail and a room without a roof. Tel: 3000106 www.wretreatbali.com Yak Map O.4 Winehouse Despair not wine lovers, here’s the ticket to get some of the best wine available at prices that won’t send you spare. The gregarious host at Winehouse, Katrina, knows a thing or two about the gorgeous grape and each month she selects five red and five white wines to serve by the glass at the intimate bar at the back of the Winehouse shop. Carefully selected, it also gives wine lovers a chance to try before they buy. Glasses are offered in tasting sizes, half glasses and full glasses and are discounted by 50 per cent on Thursday and Friday evenings from 5pm to 7 pm. At the bar, in a cosy corner, at the communal table in the wine room or upstairs on the airy terrace, this is a rare chance to enjoy great wines by the glass at a great price. Small plates are also offered including the hostess’ own chicken liver pate, a cheese plate or a salami plate, served with crunchy sourdough bread to soak up the excesses we’ve been known to indulge in. Tel: 737217 www.winehousebali.com Yak Map V.4 Mozaic Beach Club Yet another classic venue where prices take a dive along with the sun every sunny afternoon. Laze by the pool, grab a private cabana, sit on the terrace overlooking the beach or by the bar, there are plenty of options. Drinks are offered at a cool Rp70,000 each from 4pm to 7 pm each glorious afternoon. That’s right, three hours of delectable cocktails, selected wines and spirits at great prices. Mozaic Beach Club also turns up the style stakes with

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complimentary bites from one of Bali’s best kitchens. The tunes are cool, the drinks are perfectly priced and delicious and then there’s the food. You may not want to leave, so relax and have another swig, er . . . swim. Tel: 4735796 www.mozaic-beachclub.com Yak Map J.2 Sundara One of the hottest new destination beach bars, on the quiet sands of Jimbaran beach, Sundara at Four Seasons Resort has some stunning cocktails created by one of the leaders in the industry, Barcelona cocktail master, Javier de las Muelas. So expect the unexpected and revel in the chance to enjoy something truly spectacular. Order cocktails from the extensive menu and enjoy two for the price of one from 5pm ‘til 7pm each evening. Swoon over bar bites from this glamorous kitchen and enjoy the sights and sounds of one of Bali’s favourite playgrounds. One of Bali’s longest horizon pools overlooking the sandy beach is a highlight here. Jump in, cool off and see where the stylish Bali crowd comes to play. Tel: 708333 www.sundarabali.com Karma Beach bali A free ride down the island’s most dramatic inclinator is reason enough to visit the jetsetter’s favourite beach bar. Throw in some 2 for 1 cocktails, discounted wines and bubbles, free food and one of the best views in town and we’re happy to be at Karma Beach at Karma Kandara. Monday to Friday from 5.30 to 7.30 the calm turquoise water laps the white sand beach as DJs serenade the crowd. Linger on the sofas, hang off the giant bamboo bar or feel the sand beneath your toes as the sun hits the endless horizon. Monday night is movie night and the big screen is erected right there on the sand, stay and play, get wet, enjoy classic Mediterranean food and celebrate the happiest time of the day. Tel: 848 2200 www.karmabeach.com Aperitivo at Seminyak Italian Restaurant We’ve been waiting ages for this little beauty to arrive and finally it has. Sample some of the Italian-style cocktails and inspired hot and cold canapes every Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 5pm to 7pm and watch the sun set on Double Six beach from a prime position. The newly opened Double Six Resort is filled with sexy features and the first of Australian chef, Rob Marchetti’s, restaurants, Seminyak Italian Restaurant. With a selection of six Italian-inspired cocktails on offer at half price during Aperitivo, expect to get a little racy with drinks that are inspired by la dolce vita. With an entire menu and drinks list that sing with an Italian accent, the open-air restaurant overlooks the sights and sounds of Bali’s funkiest beachfront. Tel: 7344300 www.seminyakitalian.com Yak Map S.13



constant wining

Katrina Valkenburg visits charlie bar and restaurant to sample some subtle highland flavours. photo: lucky 8.

a wee dram goes a long way.

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Life Café: An Ode To Whiskey, by John Sunderland To make such as you from wind from earth from stream and spray elemental flows elemental grows within the spell of alchemy then comes the sleep of years in a round of wood so quiet so dark so still to dream of loch and hill so sleep long and wake transformed of soil and sun of peat and burn and cloudburst circles on the tarn as liquid gold held in my hand the genius of Man “Liquid gold”. “The genius of man”. Such evocative terms to describe a beverage but to those who have been harnessed by its magic, evocative terms roll of the tongue. Whether it’s spelt with or without the ‘e’ is dependent on whether it’s produced in Scotland or anywhere else. The general rule is: Whisky: Scottish Whiskey: Everyone else Factoid: Scots spell it without the "e" because they believe more vowels waste good drinking time. To determine where you like your whiskey to come from and whether it’s a blend or a single malt, you will need to drink recklessly. Drink fool-heartedly, expensively, cheaply and with gusto. Next you need to work out how you take your whiskey: neat, on the rocks or with water. There’s no real right or wrong but whatever you do, do not add cola. If you ask for a scotch and coke, you’ll get some bottom shelf atrocity that will burn your stomach lining and do your head in. Water is used to “open up” a whiskey so the aromas are free to titillate your olfactories. Adding just a splash of pure water prevents the strong alcohol content from numbing your senses. Ice, on the other hand, cools down the whiskey and can do the opposite – tightening it up and inhibiting its flavour, effectively freezing its aroma. As the ice melts to water, the whiskey mellows.

All four of my grandparents and my father were whiskey aficionados and all took their poison differently. Different whiskey, cold water, ice, a splash of soda, theirs was the only way one should drink it. My turn to get hooked came in my early 30s whilst working on Johnnie Walker Black and Blue labels over a period of a couple of years. I had the miscued assertion that young women shouldn’t/ didn’t/couldn’t drink whiskey. It was a man’s drink or for women of low moral standing. I was initiated into the world of single malts and blended whiskies by the Master Blender and Brand Ambassador for Johnnie Walker, whose name I have regrettably forgotten. We ran a programme of events designed to catch the “white collar” male before he had decided upon his whiskey for life, hence, 25-35-year-olds. We lined up all the components (single malts) that went into Johnnie Walker Black finishing with the real McCoy and then, to add a bit of debate to the occasion and literally seal the deal, we gave them another very well known branded blend and asked them which they preferred. In every case, the Johnnie Walker Black Label came out on top and those boys are now men and I’ve no doubt, brand loyal. Why just men? Because the skew for whiskey has always been male. Until recently when studies have shown that an astonishing 33 per cent of whiskey drinkers in the UK are women. It may still raise the odd eyebrow or look as though you’re seeking attention, but for me, whiskey has the power to immediately slow everything down. I like its boldness. I like the warmth that creeps up the sides of my cheeks making me feel cozy and loving. I like the surprise and elation that comes from discovering some little-known single malt – a feeling of it being all mine, a secret that I will hold close for fear of becoming mainstream and losing its ethereal magic. The world’s spirit drinkers have for quite some time been biased toward white spirits and wine. But like all things, fashions change and we are now seeing the emergence of The Whiskey Bar. Whether its London, New York, Hong Kong, Melbourne or Singapore, there’s a newfound penchant for exclusive hideaways serving the upper echelons of whiskies to an ever-increasing base of aficionados. As this trend takes hold, we will be exposed to more glittering advertising and promotion using women as the bait. Take, for example, Christine Hendricks, buxom star of the Mad Men series, who has become an ambassador for Johnnie Walker,

something that could not have been imagined even five years ago. Whiskey is losing its male-only image and becoming a drink for all genders . . . and seasons. And so we come to our beloved island of Bali, where the most popular tipple is sauvignon blanc and a host of tropical fruit based cocktails. Oh, and we can’t forget the ubiquitous Bintang. Why on earth would anyone believe that a Whiskey Bar would work in the tropics? The answer most definitely lies in the great spectrum of tourists and residents that Bali attracts. More and more people are looking for educational experiences to enhance their holiday or life, so whether it’s a look at the production of coffee or chocolate or a journey through the great Shiraz of the World at Winehouse or a Whiskey tasting at Charlie Bar and Bistro, there’s a market for all. Charlie Bar has a wondrous collection of top shelf single malts and blends of whiskey and their list will be growing as more become available. Be taken through a flight of Scottish single malts by a whisky expert or discover your favourite and stick to it, this is sure to become a must-do experience on Bali. I recently had the good fortune to do such a tasting at Charlie Bar and Bistro. The lineup included Royal Lochnagar, Cardhu and Oban. All three are compelling and all were tasted neat, with ice and with a splash of spring water. Royal Lochnagar is a single malt whisky from the Scottish Highland whisky producing area. The nose offers toffee along with some green notes and a discreet whiff of smoke. The Cardhu distillery was sited high on Mannoch Hill, above the River Spey due to the peat softening the water. The nose is relatively light and floral, quite sweet with pears, nuts and a whiff of distant smoke. Oban has only two pot stills, making it one of the smallest in Scotland, producing a whisky that has been described as having a West Highland flavour that falls between the dry, smoky style of the Scottish islands and the lighter, sweeter malts of the highlands. It is lightly smoky on the honeyed, floral nose. Toffee, cereal, a hint of peat, along with a whiff of the seashore. The finish is lengthy and aromatic. www.charliebali.com

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single minded If drinking good whiskey is your thing you now have a place to go to indulge your passion for the amber dram – Single Malt is here and it’s good, writes Drew Corridore. photo: lucky 8.

IT doesn’t get much better for this little black duck than sitting in comfy climes with a couple of friends and savouring a really good scotch. Opened in mid-May and nestled on the second floor of the Ize Hotel, Single Malt’s balcony looks out over Jl. Kayu Aya in the heart of Seminyak. It’s a casual but smart intimate open area from which to watch the passing parade. Inside is the air conditioned Single Malt lounge and bar. As befits a salubrious establishment where the main theme is the enjoyment of nectars born in the Scottish highlands, Single Malt’s lounge is furnished with Chesterfield-style leather suites for cosy conviviality; rustic tables and chairs; and, of course, a long bar where guests can sit and watch the bar staff perform their magic. Neal and I were definitely there for the scotch and, to that end, started with a 14-yearold Oban for him and a 15-year-old Balvenie for me . . . ahh, the beautiful, peaty, smoky, seaside nose. The unique malty marvel as you run the amber around in your mouth, and the smooth warmth as it heads south. I prefer my single malts with a single ice-block that, as it melts, opens up the flavours of the whisky. It is worthy of note here that Single Malt’s measures are 45cl, not the ubiquitous 30cl that constitutes a “single” in other establishments. Our companion, Ni Madé, opted to try out the cocktail list, which is extensive. She

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kicked off with a Magic Mousse – an ingenious concoction with Baileys and chocolate mousse, Jack Daniels over which, in an alchemic moment, the barmeister flames a stream of Cointreau. It looked good and it tasted even better . . . a rich indulgence. Although whisky drinking has traditionally been a male bastion times they are a changin’ as more and more women discover the subtle delights of the elixir, but there’s plenty on offer at Single Malt to titillate the taste buds of those who are more cocktail-oriented. Single Malt currently has more than 50 whiskies on offer and is aiming at stocking more than 150 in the not-too-distant. The range of wines and other spirits is generous enough to cater for everyone committed to exploring the wonderful world of the bevvy. As well as stocking single malts and blends from Scotland, Single Malt has scoured the globe to find whiskies from Ireland, Sweden, Japan, Australia, Canada, Taiwan and much, much more. Although my roots are firmly founded in the land where names begin with “Mc” or “Mac” I felt I had to get out of my comfort zone and opted for a Yamazake 12-year-old from Japan . . . smooth and soft with good sweetness and winter spice. A pleasant surprise. Neal went “offshore” as well with a Wild Turkey American Honey that, drunk straight up, is an incredibly smooth and sweet experience.

Madé, meanwhile, went for a Fabulous Forest cocktail which was indeed fabulous. We snacked from the tapas menu that is furnished by Meja restaurant downstairs at street level. The Breaded Green Olives Stuffed with Blue Cheese were insanely good, as was the elegantly presented Sushi Trio with prawn, salmon and mahi-mahi. Single Malt is offering a membership programme whereby “Member” cards entitle members to 10 per cent drinks discounts and other benefits; and “Resident” cardholders get their own locker in which to keep private bottles of booze, 20 per cent drinks discounts and a range of other entitlements. A promotional offer lasting until June 17 involves the purchase of two bottles of your favourite tipple and receiving a free third bottle (based on the average price of the two bottles purchased). This offer also gets you a locker and Resident card. There are only 36 lockers so get in quick. For Yak readers the offer has been extended to June 30 if you bring a copy of this issue of the magazine with you to Single Malt and present this article to the staff. It’s hip, it’s trendy, comfy and cool . . . Single Malt is a place you need to experience. Open 6pm to 2am Tuesday to Sunday.

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chic conviviality at single malt.

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interview Will Meyrick of Sarong Restaurant fame is on a mission to educate people about the beauty and subtlety of Indonesia’s coffees. He’s bean there, done that, writes Salvador Bali.

Will, judging from your enthusiasm you have quite a passion about this project, not just an overnight thing . . . Yeah, I’m really trying to get into it, I mean I’ve lived on the island of Bali for 13 years and I’ve managed to see Indonesia as a whole, and there’s a lot more to Indonesia than Bali, a lot of people don’t know that, so this part of the series that we’re trying to do. So we’ve got beans, beans, beans – what inspired you to start teaching people about the coffee beans grown in different parts of Indonesia? Basically it was doing the television show Street Food Chef – national television on TransTV. I basically traveled all around Indonesia, with the show – it wasn’t just about food, it was also about ingredients, cultures. My wife is from Bandung and I’ve been there many times and I wanted to know more and scratch the surface of what Bandung was about. Scratching hard enough I’ve found the most amazing things from coffee to tea plantations. Where does the coffee and Sarong come into play? I really wanted to change the direction that we’re going in. I felt with a lot more Asian restaurants coming in we had to dig deeper about where we’re sourcing our produce from – not just going to the supermarket to buy it but going the extra mile and finding the Ibu who makes the shrimp paste by hand, the palm sugar, the coffee as well. From what I understand from my bartenders, staff and a lot of people in the industry who work at hotels and restaurants, they don’t know about coffee . . . they make it every day, but they don’t know where it comes from. The idea is to get a better understanding of what they’re cooking with. As a chef you have to understand about the fish, what works, what doesn’t, in the bar you have to understand about coffee, not only how to make it, but how to roast it, what temperatures, the light roast, the dark roast, so this is just a small step in the process. Sounds like back to the farmer and screw the corporations? It is, what I realise working through Jakarta and here in Bali, it’s very hard to get quality and consistent produce . . . why is that? People want to take the shortcut. Is this coffee project a private enterprise? Yes, Pak Eko is the owner of Klasik Beans which is the name of the company that I’m promoting; I’m bringing it through to everybody so people can understand produce. Meaning getting it everywhere? Yes, that’s the idea, but we’re doing our own roasts. You can get the beans, that’s fine, but it all depends on the roaster that gives it that different flavour. Are these beans Bali grown? No, we’re going to use the Sunda Beans, Sulawesi Beans, mixtures of them and blend, the idea is to package it as well. Do you think that your coffee is special compared to others? No, I wouldn’t say that yet, it’s a learning process. But it’s a lead up to the new restaurant we’re building on Petitinget which is Maluku, which will be pure Indonesian. That will be directly opposite Métis restaurant. Are you a coffee nut in general? Yeah, I'm more into it now. Before it was lattés and the like, but now I’m really starting to appreciate straight coffee and espressos. It’s an aquired taste, and the older you get, the more you enjoy it. What are your hopes for this project? This is just a small step, the idea is to get the government support, agriculture tourism and get the attention of Garuda and various other people to really join and promote Indonesia. For me it’s a personal goal. I’ve lived here for so long and my children are Indonesian and to create a better education, and that’s the main focus. When will the coffee push start? It’s already starting in Sarong Restaurant and Mama San, we’re only using two beans at the moment, but we’ve already got the farms that we’re working on up at Jatiluwih. We’ve just invested in 15 pigs to produce piglets, also we have a chicken farm and all the chickens have their feathers on . . . again the idea (is to assist) where a lot of farmers are struggling to sustain their salary every year. www.sarongbali.com

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coffee: from mountain to the streets. meyrick's on a mission to promote the local bean.

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venting in a villa

Katie Truman visits a trio of passionate places to stay in the south.

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U Paasha Seminyak.

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C151 luxury villas dreamland .

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U Paasha Seminyak One isn’t likely to stay at U Paasha Seminyak for any sea or garden views from guestroom balconies, and the beach is 15 minutes away. U Paasha is more about location, location, location, and lifestyle in the heart of Jalan Laksmana, Seminyak. This deluxe property highlights indigenous heritage through accents and spaces earthy and natural-toned, yet is ultra-contemporary in design and facilities – a prime example, the vast, street-side atrium lobby with tall timbered columns. Just one year old, already U Paasha is pulling in the young (or young at heart) couples and groups of friends who love to party or want to live the Seminyak lifestyle. But it isn’t just the location which attracts; part of the U Hotels Group Brand, U Paasha offers great value and unique concept of savvy services, including full 24-hour room use, with guests deciding when they want to arrive and check out (a godsend for late arrivals and late-night flights) and breakfast, “whenever, wherever” during the stay, avoiding the usual last-gasp breakfast rush – although the buffet breakfast and high grade coffees, served at Alcove Restaurant-café, is worth a wake-up call. Further benefits cover international and local calls at cost, and complimentary bicycles, library heritage talks and cultural guided walks. U Paasha also offers a “U Choose Programme” service allowing guests to select amenity room preferences prior on-line, covering in-room iPod music, pillows, soap fragrance and teas. Like the rest of U Paasha, the 94 suites and five penthouses are uncluttered and keep it simple. Views are somewhat “unfortunate” with rooms facing out onto back streets, but the sunlit suites (spacious from 50sqm) are importantly, “designed for modern living, inviting guests to slow down, unwind and prepare to party Seminyak style”. Interiors are neutral, with white textured walls and walnut-hued woods. Guest-friendly touches include coffee percolator, large LCD TV with entertainment system, deluxe bedding you’d expect in a five-star, lengthy wooden desk and large open-plan bathrooms with walk-in rain shower large enough for a post-party, party, and his ‘n’ her vanity. Yet at the epicentre of partysville, you can’t seem to hear any Seminyak or guest antics, perhaps due to clever positioning and solid architectural design of thick walls, polished concrete floors and heavy wooden doors and room corridors, so wide you could hold curling championships here. Even more of an urban sanctuary – elevated above the mayhem on the fourth floor – is Rooftop Pool and Bar: an open terrace with full 360-degree views of Kuta Bay. Beside the centrepiece lap pool, sip a Mojito, book a posthangover massage or join complementary yoga sessions early Saturday mornings. A few steps down on a lower deck, (beside the 24-hour fitness centre), the rooftop semi-open bar/café offers another fab perch for sunsets; the light dining menu is fairly standard (try the daily saté selection) but the views certainly aren’t – from an outer dining terrace edging the bar, couples-sized pod seats, or lengthy stone counter with sit-up stools (refreshingly singletonfriendly), all facing the ocean. Even with Seminyak’s culinary temptations, make at least one visit here late afternoon, especially with the Sunset BBQ (all you can eat IDR 150,000++) on Monday, Wednesday and Friday evenings, with German bratwurst, marinated chicken wings, beef steaks, pork ribs and catch of the day

sizzling on the barbie. Happy Hour(s), from 4 to 9pm, entice with 2-for-1 drinks, such as “Pool Favourites” cocktails. U Paasha even boasts its own basement bar, Alibi, whose semi-open deck spills out onto Jalan Laksmana – a great people watching spot. With its lowceilinged and cavernous timbered interiors, central bar, generously sized dance floor and private sofas, Alibi resembles more a nightspot. Happy Hours run all-day and premium wines and designer cocktails come served with snacking comfort food. DJs play nightly, but check out Alibi’s four themed nights featuring “Rettro Hitz” on Sundays and “Lady’s Fever” on Thursdays. Alibi is also an excellent place to organise private parties and bespoke themed events. Rates start from US$99++ (with Best Rate Guarantee) / www.upaashaseminyak.com C151 TO the informed, C151 Smart Villas has been operating in central Seminyak for more than six years and the same property company also boasts six magnificent cliff-edge villas in Uluwatu – namely C151 Luxury Villas Dreamland. C151’s mantra is, “you don’t have to be dead to see heaven” and these luxurious, self-contained villa properties strung side-by-side along Uluwatu’s sheer cliffs have views to kill for – unobstructed and sublime panoramas of the endless Indian Ocean, providing a secluded perch for personalised sunset shows. Left-side, is the nearest beach and “worst-kept secret” Padang-Padang (and C151 Beach Club) and right-side, Dreamland; Anantara Uluwatu Resort shares the same leafy laneway with sacred Pura Uluwatu, a mere 15 minutes away. The five, four-bedroom pool villas are massive (size really does matter here) and antithesis of traditional Balinese: wave goodbye to alang-alang roofs, carved woods, indigenous décor and antiquities (with exception of stone bas relief wall adornments). C151 Luxury Villas Dreamland come minimalist and ultra-contemporary, with striking cubic architectural design in dazzling white – each flat roof topped with a giant white Buddha, from where a waterfall cascades down to the ground floor. Past the imposing entrance of steppingstones across a water feature, each of the five villas reveals the same-style layout. Interiors highlight stark white walls and grey, black and white tones, all equipped with the latest gadgetry including five, 55-inch LED TVs, fully integrated sound systems and electricalpowered curtains. Perched on a clifftop, it’s all about dramatic sea views – ocean-facing floor-to-ceiling glass walls maximise the panorama and natural sunlight. Overall, it’s all fashionably functional rather than plush; just as well, as these villas are a big hit for socialising and with four en-suite bedrooms apiece, popular with families, wedding parties, groups of friends and – amidst some of the world’s best surf breaks – surfers. Couples, however, can book and use one bedroom for a lower rate, with a vast amount of space all to themselves. The services of a personal butler, experienced chef for personalised cooking and dining menus are available round the clock, while return airport transfers, daily afternoon tea and sunset canapés are also complimentary. The open-plan living/dining room includes a well-equipped kitchen, where the staff whips up breakfasts; two bedrooms lead off here, while upstairs the penthouse-style master suite opens out to a private sundeck with water features. Check out the outrageous bathroom, complete with inner-room dedicated to a fibre optic-lit shower and Jacuzzi bathtub – large enough to

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accommodate all eight villa guests, and opposite end, a temperature controlled walk-in wardrobe. This is surpassed however by the basement; the fourth bedroom doubling as a subterranean “entertainment den” with pool table, library, bar zone and snazzy home entertainment system, and then a glass central wall panel cut into the base of the pool for some aquarium-style, voyeuristic views from the kingsized bed – a Bali first. The villa’s focal point however is an elongated infinity pool with heated Jacuzzi, blurring into the vast seascape and expansive open-air terrace with four sun loungers. Stone steps down the cliff face reveal another terrace, framed by fuchsia and bougainvillea, for more private sunbathing. From a lower third level, further steps down end at a private cove and shimmering emerald water over ribbons of coral. For surfers, this is the ultimate surfing pad: simply paddle out to the break for instant access. C151 is amazing for parties, DJ nights and poolside barbecues (go catch the fish, then ask Chef to grill it), which the butler, chef and villa staff are happy to organise. Multi-functional Villa #6, has just two-bedrooms – but with more substantial catering facilities and two swimming pools, is the main cliff-top weddings and events venue. C151 Luxury Villas Dreamland has also been the holiday hangout for domestic celebs, jetsetters and VIPs, attracted perhaps by the privacy, 24-hour security personnel and front door video intercom, plus obligatory helipad. Rates start from US$1000++ (one-bedroom reservation) / http://dreamland.c151.nett Grand Nikko Bali I booked in for a few days at the new luxury villas at Grand Nikko Bali – pretty impressive in itself, a Nusa Dua beachfront resort tumbling down a 40-metre cliff – you can just anticipate it’s all going to be rather grand. Grand Nikko Bali is akin to a sanctuary (albeit gi-normous) - positioned along Nusa Dua’s quieter stretch of Sawangan. But its nineteen lavish pool villas – launched in 2013 as part of a multimillion dollar upgrade and expansion – is a “resort within a resort”, ensconced in private gardens adjacent to the main resort. Villas come discreetly placed around a lagoon and manicured lawns, with the glass-encased Villa Lounge conveniently centre-stage and exclusively serving villa guests 24-hours, with dedicated yet friendly staff and the services of a personal butler on call 24/7. There are 17 one-bedroom ocean or garden view villas (at a spacious 300sqm); the former set back from the beach offers gorgeous sea views and breezes, the latter offers guests more privacy, with a garden totally enclosed by high walls for a seriously romantic oasis. Designed by Grounds Kent Architecture, villas are understated tropical luxury and contemporary Balinese – elegantly refined yet surprisingly homely and comfortable, with subtle tones adorned with flashes of vivid turquoise. Well appointed, with the latest audio-visual appliances such as Bose sound system and iPod docks, traditional Balinese elements nonetheless are emphasised, starting with the tall (and heavy) latticework carved wood front door heading up a small lobby and within, copious use of warm woods, such as the carved wood daybed. Further touches include traditional welcome gongs

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hung as wall decorations, batik-print cushions and lofty ceilings of split bamboo. Even the outer walls – painted a faded maroon – pay homage to the samecoloured indigenous grasses that edge the gardens. Spacious bathrooms, flanked by earthenware deities, come glass-encased for lots of sunshine and afford a sensuous experience, with walk-in shower with two rainforest showerheads and freestanding egg-shaped bathtub, illuminated by a chandelier. Tuberose (sedap malam) blooms turn the air fragrant post-dusk. Don’t forget the tropical outdoor shower, hidden by luscious banana plants and rustically fashioned in weathered brass – divinely sexy day or night. Sliding glass doors from the bedroom lead to an expansive patio with private pool and sun beds, beside a gazebo providing daybeds, coffee machine, mini-bar stacked with complimentary beverages and al fresco dining facilities. Intimate barbecues and candlelit dinners can be arranged. In the same style, albeit large-scale, the two-bedroom garden view villa (500sqm) comes with two en-suite bedrooms book-ending a living-dining area with pantry, and instant access to the 15-metre swimming pool and garden terrace. The crown jewel however is the three-bedroom ocean view villa – a whopping two-level and 700sqm – gracious and polished with timbered design. The sprawling open plan living and dining room with kitchen/bar, comes atrium-style with first-floor gallery and is perfect for hosting smaller dinner receptions, while outdoors, the 17-metre pool, flanked by two pavilions, is tailormade for outdoor private entertaining; no wonder VIPs and dignitaries book here. The Villas carry exclusive privileges and Club benefits, namely, 24-hour access to Villa Lounge and Grand Nikko Club Lounge – an exclusive oasis for Club guests on the second floor of the resort’s cliff tower – where in either you’re entitled to complimentary afternoon tea, a la carte breakfast, evening cocktails and non-stop snacks and refreshments. Understandably, you’ll relish the Villa’s total peace and seclusion (especially honeymooners – or burnt-out execs), but you may wish to mix it up a bit and be sociable, taking advantage of full access to a 389-room five-star beach resort and its premium facilities. Request a buggy to whisk you the short distance to tour interconnected swimming pools, Mandara Spa, children’s lagoon pool and jungle camp, multiple F&B venues and an exceptionally lovely secluded beach, with pristine water and blonde sands. At Grand Nikko Club Lounge, ultra-contemporary in design and lording it above the beachside pools, enjoy exclusive access to the split-level sun terrace with infinity pool and beach-facing cabanas – a must for breakfasts, with the morning sunlight on cobalt-blue waters, simply sensational. Then withdraw back to your luxurious sanctuary. Perhaps it’s the understated opulence, calming feng shui elements or omnipresent beauty, but staying here, you may feel a tad too much at home; not good when the butler comes to collect the luggage. You could always hide in the gardens. Villa rates start from IDR 6,200,000++ / http://grandnikkobali.com


grand nikko bali.

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INTO THE INTERIOR words: jack taylor PORTRA I T : J A S ON REPO S AR

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If purgatory is building a luxury home in Bali, Steve Palmer has suffered long enough.With a spot on the cliff at Padang Padang secured in 1993, it was another 12 years before he broke ground and a further nine years more before Steve could say that The Luxe Bali was finally finished. A rough guess at the number of man-hours it has taken to create what may well be the most meticulously thought out villa in Bali is at least 100,000. But for the CEO of Surfer Girl International it is the culmination of a vision that spans more than four decades. Perched on a Bukit clifftop overlooking the Indian Ocean, with Padang Padang beach to the right and its treasured wave thundering into view from the left, Steve first gazed over this magnificent sight back in the early ‘70s. The twinkling lights from Kuta all the way to Tanah Lot shine from across the bay after sunset, and back then the thought of having this view out the front of his home was a pipe dream. Fast-forward 40 years and he not only has the view, but a villa that has been created with comfort and bliss at its core. His analogy for the experience of staying here is a trip down a lazy river. Imagine lying back on a lilo and drifting down stream with nothing in the way to interrupt your trip except a collage of wonderful vistas and the emotions they invite. Sensors switch the lights on and off in each room as you enter and leave. Doors and windows can be opened effortlessly, despite being thick and heavy to block out noise and create a feeling of serenity in each room. Fittings like the electrical sockets have been tailored to fit in with the surrounding decor, by dying the plastic to give the patina of hand rubbed leather. For this Steve drew on knowledge gained while dying shirt buttons for his mid-‘70s Om Clothing company. This was long before he started Surfer Girl, and the retail experience he acquired with its success influenced another feature of the villa – everything is smooth and rounded. Any sharp edges that could be eliminated have been, subconsciously putting you at greater ease and making you feel safe.

To say the build quality of the villa is high is more than an understatement. Giant cyclone-proof sliding windows from Italy, chrome kitchen fittings from Germany, wool rugs from Tibet and teak handrails from Java just touch the surface of what has been gathered from across the globe to create such a fine home. Steve has worked tirelessly to ensure everything about the villa is the best it can be, spending more time than he can sum up researching and learning about every aspect of design, building and materials. All too aware of the effect proximity to the ocean can have on buildings, Steve has covered everything he possibly can to ensure the maintenance required for the villa is minimal. Throughout the villa an environmentally responsible “nano” sealant called Meta Creme has been used, and just one of its wonderful qualities is managing to keep the outdoor marble tiles cool and dry beneath your feet even with the tropical sun beating down. Avoiding any unnecessary detrimental impact on the natural surroundings was another requirement that Steve set himself. He strived to keep things looking natural and in harmony with the jungle encircling the villa. Every paras stone block of the large outside wall was artfully hand worked to create a rough surface with nooks and crannies where natural fern spores could take root, resulting in amazingly lush vertical garden walls. Eco-friendly building materials were used wherever possible along with low wattage LED lights and other energy efficient appliances to help keep the villa’s carbon footprint low. The courtyard at the entrance is where one of the villa’s greenest features makes its unassuming presence felt. Below the Banyan trees water tumbles and swirls down through stone flow form bowls to re-energise the villa’s water supply. Huge rainwater collection tanks installed beneath the villa driveway store over 500 thousand litres of rain water which is charcoal filtered three times to ensure it’s clean and safe to drink before it comes running out from the taps. All waste water is also recycled to become odourless, crystal

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INTO THE INTERIOR

The ins and outs of the The Luxe Bali.

clear garden water, and the entire system ensures the villa is mostly self-reliant on its own water supply. The lighting and sound system throughout the house can be controlled wirelessly with an iPad, as can the CCTV system. For physically impaired guests a lift runs through the four floors of the villa giving them full access to the property. Downstairs the entire bottom floor is devoted to leisure, with bathrooms, a steam room, cedar sauna, massage room, gym and a cinema room. Reclining leather seats face a three-metre screen lit up by a 3D HD projector and awesome sound system. But for all the latest technology and modern conveniences the villa has, there are a couple of personal touches that Steve has adorned the villa with. His Hawaiian Dick Brewer “gun”, shaped for the bombs at Nusa Dua and surfed for years, pinned up across the wall to save it from snapping due to its age. Also a set of stunning Reference Standard speakers he bought in Sydney back in ’79 that

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have survived way too many parties over the years to find their final resting place in the living room. Steve’s and his neighbour’s attention to detail has not gone unnoticed, with the likes of Julia Roberts and Penelope Cruz choosing to stay at the estate above the other luxurious offerings in Bali. The Luxe Bali becomes a rental home for half of the year when Steve heads to the mountains to satisfy his snowboarding addiction, and for the right price this three-bedroom property is available to buy. The time and money spent building this masterpiece would have been enough to build three five-bedroom villas, but it was never about the money. It was about creating something exceptional. www.baliluxuryvillas.com


the Perfectonic to skip past the queue

aquatonic hydromassage + rock bar “perfectonic experience” rp480,000++

Enjoy a 2-hour thalassotherapy session in the world’s largest Aquatonic Seawater Therapy Pool, supplied from the underlying Indian Ocean and warmed to optimum temperatures. The pool’s 60 hydromassage stations target the whole body from head to toe, via therapeutic jet streams, micro-bubbles and geysers. Then dance your way past the queue to Rock Bar for a ‘Spa on the Rocks’ cocktail!

now open: rimba rooftop spa with rock bar priority access

WORLD’S BEST SPA RESORT - Conde Nast Traveller Readers’ Awards WORLD’S BEST HOTELS - 2013 Travel + Leisure Awards AYANA Resort and Spa BALI | www.ayanaresort.com RIMBA Jimbaran BALI | www.rimbajimbaran.com Karang Mas Estate, Jalan Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran 702222 | info@thermesmarins-bali.com


wakascape.

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venting in a villa


Paul W. heads to the beach and finds a resort that resonates contemporary Bali.

Bali is, and always will be, a treasure chest full of hidden surprises for those willing enough to discover them – the further you go the more you get to know. And so it was I set off to find Yeh Gangga village and the resort that sits above its dramatic black sand beach, WakaGangga. For me one of the best parts of any journey is actually getting there and this particular one certainly didn’t disappoint. Meandering along the main trunk road to Java the traffic in both directions is heavy and so my driver decided to throw caution to the wind by taking the back roads to Tabanan and eventually the sea. I am glad he did as along the way we passed through charming villages set amidst impossibly emerald green rice fields that filled the valleys and the surrounding undulating hills. It is nearly the holiday period of Rahinan Galungan and so the small village stores are bursting at the seams with their wares of brightly coloured penjors that will soon decorate the footpaths and entrances of the homes in Bali. WakaGangga resort has come full circle with the re-opening of Waka Hotels & Resort’s signature property after three years of imaginative design and construction. The first thing any arriving guest will experience is a massive conical structure complete with an alang-alang roof. From afar it almost resembles Africa’s village rondavals and provides a dramatic entrance point to the unashamedly minimalist reception area. Built with distinctive rustic features the spacious and garden and pool villas are almost a home away from home. The resort will have 27 villas in total, 15 with private swimming pool. Designed by

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renowned Ketut Siandana all are luxuriously understated and positioned so that each villa makes maximum use of garden and ocean views. Siandana has used primitive objects and pieces worn down by nature’s elements or human hands and incorporated these into all aspects of the architecture. Equipped with romantic four poster beds, desk, sofa bed and dressing room all finished in crafted timber, stone and tiles the of expansive glass ensures each villa is flooded with light. Indoor/outdoor bathrooms have been lovingly finished in palimanan stone and handmade tiles all offset by clever use of timber surrounds. The rooms flow seamlessly through a separate dressing room or an alternative route to the main bedroom. John Pettigrew’s ingenious landscaping has integrated the surrounding rice fields and brought them right into the heart of the complex so that each villa feels part of, rather than away from, the terraces. After settling in it’s almost a crime to leave the sanctuary of the villa with its large private pool and inviting terrace complete with pillows and comfortable furniture but the resort has invited me to experience the Waka Spa. Deliciously understated, the design once again is complimented by Ketut Siandana’s spiral designs and conical roof giving the building an airy tranquil feel re-enforced by the water features at the front reception. 164

Offering traditional Balinese and modern treatments it also boasts state-of-the-art steam shower rooms a gymnasium and a beauty treatment room with jawdropping views of the ocean beyond. The grounds are lavishly planted and although the trees are in the early stages of growth one can imagine that within a few months this will soon be a tropical oasis. Heading to the beach past the huge swimming pool is the unique, or some might say, quirky, restaurant and bar area. Set high above the ocean, affording breathtaking 180-degree views, again Siandana’s conical roofs are the dominant feature. These have been incorporated into renowned Japanese architect Nobuyuki Narabayashi’s spacious and open-plan design. Covering the outside of the building are scaffolding like wooden beams that follow no discernable patterns giving the impression that it is still under construction. Personally I thought this a bold architectural statement and a stunning piece of design, which is the first thing one sees when walking on the beach. The elevated position of the restaurant allows guests and visitors alike to experience the breathtaking beauty of miles and miles of beach stretching all the way to the horizon. The beach runs true and flat as the sands of the Sahara even though the grains are jet black which somehow adds to the drama of the location.

Sunsets here are so sublime they resemble a majestic Turner water color with vibrant hues of every colour imaginable. Nature’s palette provides guests one of the most incredible backdrops to be seen anywhere while sipping on an evening cocktail. Putu Yudana, WakaGangga’s executive chef, is amiable and easy going and was generous enough to share with me his experiences of having spent years in Thailand and the sub-continent learning his craft. Not being a great dessert lover I was however persuaded to try his ‘special’ black rice pudding and apple pie. I am now a committed fan. A stay at WakaGangga can be as leisurely or energetic as you wish it to be, it’s that kind of place. A call to reception and they will organise a variety of excursions or day trips across the island. Closer to home, horse riding along the beach is not to be missed for any budding or experienced equestrian. For those wanting something a little more extreme try the quad bikes that will allow you to travel miles up and down the beach. My stay at WakaGangga was all too brief but even so it gave me another glimpse of Bali’s magic and one I shall never forget. www.wakahotelsandresorts.com

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The Southeast Asia Property Awards bring together the winners from Philippines, Malaysia and Thailand alongside with the shortlisted companies from other countries in the region for a grand finale event that celebrates the best of Southeast Asian Real Estate. Nominations are sought from Indonesia, Singapore, Vietnam, Cambodia and Myanmar‌

With a professionally run, fully audited judging system, the South East Asia Property Awards bring the region’s real estate industry to the world stage. The awards will be presented at a Gala Dinner on

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venting in a villa

top: luna2 studios, bottom: hu'u.

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playpads Bali has emerged as a global party mecca – greater Seminyak its nerve centre – and the party season is imminent, darlink. time to find yourself a fabulous party pad . . . By Katie Truman.

Luna2 Studiotel The moment you “dock” at Luna2 Studios, a futuristic white building, sharply contrasting with its traditional gang in downtown Seminyak, and checked in – by staff kitted out in Pan Am 1960s-style, flight attendant uniform and “Cosmic Crew” – it’s lift-off for fun! A short totter from Seminyak Beach, this “cosmic pad for globe-trotting gastronauts” launched 2013 and, next door to acclaimed Luna2 Private Hotel, presents a new boutique studiotel concept for Bali – more South Beach or London. Luna2’s 14 studios emanate inimitable style, exclusivity and mindset, joining other like-minded guests or Luna2 Club private members: discerning, culturally savvy and well-travelled, singles, couples or groups – “jet-setting lunatics” – expecting sky-high service levels and fun. Luna2’s entire building is seriously playful – even the facilities – but especially, the studios; space-ious from 66sqm, far from somewhere to “sleep” (boring!), the party pad concept is all about fun and entertaining. Named after, and inspired by, the first (unmanned) spacecraft landing on the moon, late 1950s, British owner-interior designer Melanie Hall reveals a nostalgic devotion with 1950s and 1960s era; this throwback retro and cosmiclicious space travel theme permeates throughout, from architectural references – retro-modernist – to interior design, style, service, music and cuisine. Melanie’s design ethos is: “Luna2 respects the past, welcomes the future and has fun in the process,” and design style, “FUNked up modernism.” Fab interiors feature dazzling white walls with bursts of primary blues, reds, yellows and greens – accent colours solo themed in each studio. A signature geometric black and white pattern features throughout, from outer walls to printed curtains, while iconic Monopoly counter symbols (iron, hat, etc), Lego pieces and Rubik’s Cube are reborn as giant-sized corridor objets. Ten Studios, three Grand Studios and a Sunset Studio are even named after Monopoly streets (Strand, Bond Street, Mayfair and Piccadilly) and scream contemporary retro with an Austin Powers “Yeah Baby!” groovy vibe. All studios feature stone balconies overlooking the Mondrian-esque colourblock pool, open-plan lounge-dining space, work station and kitchenette, three

TVs (including one cube-shaped Brionvega) and pre-loaded iPod and Nespresso machine. All are individually designed, with retro furniture and furnishings utilising diverse textures, by Melanie with additional design classics by wellknown designers, such as Jasper Morrison, and iconic 1960s motifs. Natty colour co-ordination runs throughout, from bathroom Italian Bisazza mosaics and Perspex lightshades, to ultra-cool SMEG refrigerators (Luna2 MAXI bar) and circular sofas. Some studios conveniently interconnect; Grand Studio linksup with Luna2’s largest space (77sqm), Sunset Studio, AKA Mayfair On Three, providing two corner balconies for third-floor ocean views, bar with bartender on request, space capsule bed and customised Union Jack SMEG refrigerator. A lounge-dining area accommodates four. This cosmic studiotel also offers some far out public spaces, backed with gourmet “lunafood” and Wine Spectator’s Awarded-wine cellar, with 18 champagne labels and sommelier. Off we go into Orbit – Luna2’s restaurant/bar beside the lobby; ultra-retro and minimalist style in sunflower yellow and white, sunny-side-up for breakfasts, lunch, espresso coffees, designer cocktails and dinners. Through futuristic bubble windows, Poolside is visible – the place for pool parties with 25-metre lap pool (and underwater lunatunes), cabanas and Fuel Station, headed by a cosmonautinclined graffiti wall. “Space”, the final frontier? Actually, Luna2’s rooftop bar, on the stratospheric fourth floor, breezy and open-sided surveying the Indian Ocean with fullystocked bar, kitchen and DJ booth. Space makes a cool spot for in-house sunset canapés, yoga and massage sessions, or fashion shows and themed parties; get spaced-out on a Cosmic Cocktail. Lounge-bar is Luna2’s glitzy nightclub, inspired by New York’s Studio 54 and girly pink and sexy with flashing lights dance floor, full bar and resident DJs. Intimate for trysts, yet big enough to host birthday bashes (for around 60). Next door, ultra-cool Lunaplex 16-seat movie theatre screens complimentary films daily – decadently plush with multi-coloured suede rockers, press hand-held controls for Foie gras Bling Dogs and popcorn-infused cocktails. Just steps away from Seminyak’s beach clubs and the adjoining Luna2 Private

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Hotel; a mega-luxe five-bedroom property with 20-plus staff including three international chefs, two gastronomic kitchens, fully-stocked bar and beachfront pool and deck, hugely popular for personalised events and parties – and available for joint-hire with Luna2 Studios. Houston, we certainly don’t have a problem! www.luna2.com hu’u knew? If your private villa is neighbours with one of Greater Seminyak’s most beloved bar-restaurants and HQ of a refined party mindset, you’ll be in the mood to party in no time. Now part of a multi-concept, 4,300-square-metre ‘resort,’ the new exclusive hu'u Villas Seminyak are directly positioned behind Petitenget’s revamped hu’u Bar and adjoining Baba’s at hu’u restaurant. Since opening 2001, hu’u has been the epitome of mega-cool Bali, attracting thousands of global revelers and hosting countless party nights led by international DJs. Recent celebrity guests include Paris Hilton and Quincy Delight Jones Jr. Hu’u’s highly regarded restaurant has undergone recent renovations, resulting in Baba’s at hu’u restaurant; still a culinary haven and gorgeous outdoor ambience, but with an extended ‘Garden of Eden’ Lounge and showcasing dishes from South-east Asia’s major ethnicities. And, launching their ten hu’u Villas Seminyak – onebedroom lofts, two-bedroom Villas and deluxe Penthouse Villa – hu’u raises the bar again, a mini-sanctuary and luxury island getaway home in the heart of happening Seminyak-Petitenget. No beach views, but with all this, who cares?? “Guests will have unique access to the acclaimed services and amenities of this multi-functional complex designed to provide a getaway, fusing together choice luxury villa accommodation, epicurean journeys and vibrant beats, where guests from across the world come to mingle,” hu’u tour de force, Sean Lee, says. Just beyond Baba’s, hu’u’s semi-detached private villas, strung along a narrow path fringed with lusciously tropical plants, are headed-up by the Penthouse Villa, detached for extra privacy. Each villa comes designed in contemporary Balinese and understated Asian modern luxury, with a private pool (20sqm) and iron -wood sun deck within a secluded landscaped garden (a main pool is also available at Baba’s). Flawless geometric proportions and stylish open-plan interiors come courtesy of hotshot Singaporean designer, Alex Tan. Beautifully appointed, tasteful indigenous elements and traditions utilizing natural island resources, from stone outer walls and polished teak wood floorings to “tetaring” sky-lighted roofs, sit comfortably with uber contemporary amenities and state-of-the-art appliances. The feel

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is sophisticated yet low-key and almost homely. Even better, all villas are retrofitted with sound-proof elements, such as floor-to-ceiling, insulated 12-millimetre tempered glass doors and windows – that lead out to the garden – preventing any unwanted noise affecting other villa patrons. Villas are suitable for young (ish) independent, discerning travellers, with good taste and love of luxurious comforts, yet want to be based in the thick of it. Villas as are also all interconnecting – via garden gates – just the job for groups of friends booked together (hire the whole lot!). At 175sqm, One-Bedroom Lofts are a divine couple’s hideaway, with a living-dining area with pantry, bathroom and vanity, and up sleek teak wood stairs, a cute mezzanine level with loft bedroom. Dual level, two-bedroom Villas (225sqm), offer a larger living-dining and pantry area with powder room, plus upstairs master bedroom with contemporary twist four-poster bed and ensuite bathroom with giant egg-shaped bathtub. Separate from the villas, the three-bedroom Penthouse Villa with 298sqm of pampering space comes designed with “serious mingling and lounging in mind;” accessed via private steps and elevated sundeck with pavilion and 32sqm private pool. Indoors, an expansive living-dining area features a fully-equipped kitchen and bar, pantry and powder room, and options of ensuite master, poolside or studio bedrooms. Exclusive Villa benefits cover 24-hour bespoke butler and guest assistance, including concierge services, 24-hour in-villa dining and spa treatment (inclusive complimentary 15 minutes shoulder or foot massage), daily breakfast at Baba’s or in-villa, and “at home” complimentary Happy hu’u signature cocktails accompanied by canapés. Throw an intimate dinner party, cocktail pool party, or whatever, whenever celebration, assisted by your butler and hu’u events manager, and exclusive customised or a la carte event services. Additionally, each villa comes equipped with 50-inch LCD home entertainment centre and hi-tech sound system – further sound equipment and DJs can be organized. Obviously, F&B is a major feature at hu’u, with in-villa dining taken from hu’u Bar and Baba’s (room service menus displayed on the in-villa tablet) with the services of an in-house private chef. A full mini-bar selection includes personalised hu’u wines and liqueurs. Partying may well spill over (or start) at the Club and Lounge at hu’u – guests get exclusive access to events – and Baba’s; check events listings on the tablet. And handily, all just a short totter to bed. www.huuvillasbali.com


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spas

Susan Hu sorts her laptop hunch in splendid surroundings.

peace and beauty.

For those of us who spend a considerable amount of time hunched in front of a computer, it is advisable to take a break every once in a while and put yourself in the hands of a skilled expert who can knead and twist your long-suffering body back into some semblance of normalcy. This is exactly why one fine morning I find myself at the Kayumanis Ubud Private Villas & Spa. Tucked away down a small side road in a traditional Balinese village in Sayan, Kayumanis Ubud may not be the easiest place to find, but once you do, you feel as though you’ve discovered a beguiling secret garden. The resort is discreetly spread out over a vast swathe of forest, and features winding stone pathways that make their way past vine-covered walls inlaid with solid wooden doors, each of which leads to the courtyard of a private villa. The high walls and lush greenery ensure that each villa is hidden from prying eyes, and there is a deep sense of peace and serenity here, due in no small part to the fact that the resort has a strict policy of no children under the age of 16. To get to the spa, you must follow the natural stone paths down a series of steps and across a wooden bridge that spans the Lauh River. The five private thatchedroof spa villas rest in a shady grove of cinnamon, coconut and frangipani trees set between the banks of the lazy Lauh and the mighty Ayung River. Your spa experience starts with a chilled cup of rosella tea sweetened with honey and a splash of lime for balance, accompanied by a cold towel, which is pleasantly refreshing after your stroll through the grounds. The soft spoken staff will then give you a choice of massage oils including lavender and orange; lemongrass; cloves; or sandalwood and patchouli. Once you’ve made your choice, it’s off to the spa villa for some serious pampering. Each of the spa villas is made from natural materials like bamboo and stone, and has a huge balcony that overlooks a canopy of trees. From here, you can hear the Ayung River rushing nearby, birds warbling and chirping in the foliage, and cicadas buzzing in the trees. Although it was hard to narrow down the choices from the extensive spa menu, I finally opt for the Vibrant Recharge package to put some spring back in my step. This

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package is ideal for those who have recently been on long journeys, as it helps to balance the body and mind, and aims to relieve jetlag, stress and stiff muscles. After changing into a breezy robe, I am seated on soft cushions in an elegant wooden armchair on the balcony, and treated to a gentle Aromatherapy Foot Bath. Rose petals float in the warm water, and my talented therapist applies an invigorating peppermint scrub to my feet and lower legs, followed by a detoxifying sea salt scrub. I then have my choice of a Relaxing or Energy massage, so I go for the energy boost. Being the moderate masochist I am, I have also requested ‘hard’ pressure, and that’s exactly what I get. My therapist may be diminutive in build, but she certainly doesn’t lack in strength as she delivers long, powerful strokes with her hands and elbows that get deep into my muscles to make quick work of all those knots and built up tension. The hour-long massage works every part of the body, and nourishes the skin with subtly scented massage oil made from locally sourced natural products. To finish, you have your choice of a stimulating foot massage or a luxurious facial, both of which leave you feeling utterly refreshed and rebalanced. Obviously the skills of the spa therapists and the quality of products are key to a superior spa, however, I am a firm believer that the changing area also reflects the merits of a good spa. In this respect, the spa at Kayumanis Ubud does not disappoint. The indoor-outdoor rain shower offers guests the chance to freshen up with your choice of luxurious shampoos and body gels, and a hair brush, body lotion and toiletries await for further grooming options. Before you leave the sanctuary of Kayumanis, your therapist will lead you back to the reception pavilion, invite you to relax on the cushioned sofa, and present you with aromatic ginger tea and cookies. As you sip your tea and listen to the sound of the wind rustling through the trees and the river cascading below, chances are you will already be planning your next trip back to this tranquil haven.

www.kayumanis.com


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spas

NIRWANA Susan Hu goes grand at the pan pacific.

Pomp and pampering go hand-in-hand at the Nirwana Spa at the Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort in Tabanan, West Bali. Everything about the Pan Pacific is grand, from the award-winning 18-hole golf course to the palatial rooms overlooking rice paddies and sea, the four-tiered swimming pool with cascading waterfalls, and the world-class spa with its elegant courtyards and tranquil treatment rooms. If you’re seeking a spectacular spot for luxurious holistic treatments, the Nirwana Spa is second to none. The spa menu at Nirwana Spa consists of a wide range of traditional Balinese, Asian and Western massages, rejuvenating scrubs, masks, facials, and beauty treatments, each using premium products that are wholly natural and organic. To make the most of your spa experience here, try one of the signature packages that incorporate a number of treatments to enrich the mind, body and soul. Paying homage to the resort’s cliffside location along the coastline of the Indian Ocean, the Ocean Retreat package aims to rebalance the body’s natural biorhythms and deeply relax the nervous system using chakra balancing techniques, a detoxifying body scrub and body wrap, a stimulating full-body

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massage, and a gentle facial massage. Guests can opt for solo treatments or intimate couples’ treatments. From the moment your spa therapist brings you into the inner sanctum of the spa, you know this is going to be a special experience. Wide hallways open up into exotic courtyards where lofty skylights illuminate frangipani trees, the outer walls are lined with vibrant Indonesian artworks, and discreet doors lead to the private treatment rooms. You have plenty of time to soak up the ambiance in the courtyard, as your package begins with a soothing footbath, scrub and soak, while you relax in one of the stately wooden chairs facing the inner courtyard. Everywhere you look there are Asian accents like stone basins filled with floating orchid blossoms, ornate lanterns, and bright bursts of tropical greenery and flowers. The treatment rooms are no less opulent with large massage beds, rain showers set against a backdrop of natural stone walls, and massive stone bathtubs resting under frosted awnings that created a muted natural glow. Small touches are key here, as even the massage tables have oversized mattresses, batik linens, and beautiful bowls filled with sand, shell and stone arrangements under the headrest. The Ocean Retreat package gets underway with the sound of singing bells, the subtle scent of purifying incense and an invigorating body scrub using pure sea salt. As the therapist works the mineral-rich Ocean Scrub over your limbs, you get the sense that your body is releasing negative energy and toxins, and beginning the process of rejuvenation. After a quick shower to wash off the salt, your therapist applies the nourishing body mask using a silky elixir that feels refreshing and cool on the skin. This is followed by a relaxing massage that features long, gentle strokes and hot stones swirled around strategic points to release stress and re-align the chakras. During the massage, the therapist will also pinpoint problem areas to eliminate tension and make the muscles loose and pliable. As if this wasn’t enough to put you in a serious state of bliss, your experience ends with a soothing facial massage using high-end skin care products, calming massage techniques and simple pressure point manipulation to relax the mind, soften the skin and create a radiant glow. Rested, revitalised and at peace, you can postpone your entry to the real world by slipping into one of the recliners on the terrace with a cup of warm herbal tea. Here you can spend as long as you like sipping and flipping through the pages of this very magazine, gazing out at the emerald green lawns below, or simply meditating in peace amid soft breezes that make their way up from the sea. Of course, it would be a shame to visit the Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort without also experiencing a few of their divine dining destinations. The Tanah Lot Deli offers fresh sandwiches, organic salads and cosy tables overlooking the golf course, while the Sunset Lounge is the ideal spot for pre-dinner drinks amid vistas of the sun sinking into the sea. And those with a penchant for gourmet gusto will want to check out Merica for its Pacificinspired fare and postcard-perfect views of Bali’s iconic Tanah Lot temple. www.panpacific.com



spas

turning Japanese at Shinto Spa . . .

It’s all about the Zen vibes at Shinto Spa, Bali’s first authentic Japanese style spa. Located in the new Ubud Adventure Centre by Bali Adventure Tours, this unique haven is awash in shoji panelled screens, tatami mats, woven tapestries, natural textures like bamboo and stone, and tranquil water features. Celebrating the spirit of nature, harmony and relaxation, Shinto makes for the perfect indulgence after an invigorating tour, or simply a serene escape from the stresses of day-to-day life. As you would expect from a Japanese-inspired spa, the design and decor here is minimalist yet pleasing on the eye, and the treatments are derived from age-old Asian traditions that focus on purifying the body and balancing the soul. Guests can choose from a range of therapies and beauty treatments including Japanese onsen bathing rituals, reflexology, massages, body wraps, facials, manicures and pedicures. The attractive double and single treatment rooms are visually balanced with simple furnishings and artwork inspired by Japanese flora, and they feature ensuite bathrooms, dressing rooms with safes to store your valuables, and mosaic tiled steam rooms. Soft lighting sets a soothing ambiance, and a sense of peace pervades throughout. There are also separate reflexology and beauty areas that feature custom designed reclining chairs in bamboo booths that can be curtained off with cool white drapes for privacy. From these crescent-shaped cocoons, you can hear the gentle trickling of water from the water features as you relax with a Hot Stone Foot treatment or precision manicure. Shinto Spa’s signature body treatments are holistic rituals that aim to promote relaxation, rejuvenation and a deep sense of well-being. Take for example the White Lotus Purification Ritual, which aims to calm the muscles and clear the mind, as well as revitalise sensitive or stressed skin caused by fast city living, pollution and other external factors. The White Lotus experience begins when you settle onto your sunken massage bed and slip into a state of deep restfulness as your massage therapist applies a Lemon and Chamomile scrub and gently exfoliates your skin. Unlike other scrubs, this particular product is not salt based, so it feels smooth on the skin and has an

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intoxicating citrusy herbal scent. The scrub is followed by a White Lotus and Green Tea Body Wrap, which hydrates the skin and repairs damage caused by excessive sun exposure, free radicals and toxins. As the wrap works its magic, your therapist leaves you to meditate in peace or doze off to the sounds of ambient music playing faintly in the background. Once your skin has absorbed all the nutrients in the wrap, your therapist will direct you to the ensuite bathroom, where you will find a huge circular cedar tub and a rain shower fringed by smooth stones and green shoots of bamboo. With the wrap thoroughly rinsed off, you return to the treatment room for a relaxing massage. Using short strokes that follow the meridian lines of the body, the therapist manipulates the muscles to alleviate aches and pains, release stress, remove blockages and increase blood flow to the vital organs. A lightly scented aromatherapy oil is also used to promote relaxation and condition the skin. After an hour of kneading, stroking and stretching, you feel both deeply calm and energised. For the perfect end to your signature body treatment, get changed and head out to the relaxation area and curl up in one of the cushioned nest-like chairs set on tatami mats. Your spa therapist will deliver a tray with warm herbal tea and Balinese sweets, and you can gaze out at the gorgeous Japanese garden with koi ponds and views out over a jungle gorge. Besides day spa packages, Shinto Spa also has a number of packages that combine adventure tours, spa treatments, lunch at the Canopy, or dinner at Yanies Restaurant. For example, you can start the day with an exhilarating white water rafting tour, return to Shinto Spa for a one-hour spa treatment, and end the day with cocktails, sushi, a gourmet BBQ or pizza before being dropped off directly at your hotel or villa door. S.H. www.baliadventuretours.com



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music LITTLE DRAGON NABUMA RUBBERBAND LOMA VISTA/BECAUSE MUSIC

james watling gives us the rave on electronica with a hint of jazz.

With fewer beats and synths than 2011’s Ritual Union and a tempo more in line with their debut from 2007, the Swedish purveyors of eclectic pop have delivered their fourth studio album in seven years and it’s every bit as quirky and glorious as we had been hoping for. Eschewing the temptation to make a run at a breakout album we’re instead served a more ominous, almost spooky concoction of downtempo melancholy more in line with their earlier soul-drenched jazzy work before the likes of Damon Albarn, TV On The Radio and DJ Shadow discovered their unique slant on songwriting. Swedish Japanese lead singer, Yukimi Nagano, is still on form and the transition into a professionally released studio mastering (all previous albums had been produced in-house) lends a more honest and fluent feel to proceedings, yet lacks the unpolished dynamism and sheer energy of 2009’s Machine Dreams or the hazy stoner soul that permeated their first release. From the opening bars of Mirror (co written by Dave

of De La Soul fame) we know that we’re into uncharted Little Dragon territories – a far darker, almost angry, direction where Nagano is simply letting go of emotion. It’s for this introverted reason alone that Nabuma Rubberband succeeds so tremendously. The contrast between jazz-licked electronic down-tempo and dance genres is still present but now far more adventurous in scope with second single, Paris, being the only track that breathes light into an otherwise incredibly husky, almost industrial, sonic landscape that doesn’t let up until the arrival of closing track Let Go. This is the coming-of-age album that real fans of Little Dragon had been hoping for over the past few years – a record that doesn’t threaten to take this incredibly talented group into the watered down generic conscience of the mainstream but, instead, plays to the strengths of their greatest ability – to create a parallel universe of intelligent kitsch pop unlike anything you will have heard before.

VERMONT VERMONT - KOMPAKT

KELIS FOOD - NINJA TUNE

BADBADNOTGOOD III - INNOVATIVE LEISURE

ATOS DEEP MEDI MUSIK

Hugely respected German House pioneers Marcus Worgull and Danilo Plessow (better known as the figures behind Motor City Drum Ensemble) have collaborated on this hotly anticipated venture into pure analog electronica territories which many have touted as being the second coming of Kraut Rock, and the result is a landscape of warping percussive synths set adrift amongst a complex sea of emotive avant-funk. Perhaps the best way to approach Vermont as an entirety is as a 14-track improvised electronic jam session played out on aged analog gear. Nothing sounds overproduced or overworked and instead we are treated to a sonic landscape where space is afforded more time than bass drops, and all out 120bpm kick drums . . . and for that alone Vermont is an enthralling step into the unknown for two of House music’s most beloved producers.

IT’S been 10 years since Milkshake rattled our speakers and over 15 since Kelis landed on our radars with Kaleidoscope and it’s been a tough time for one of R&B’s leading ladies with record label struggles, overlooked work (remember 2010’s Flesh Tone on Interscope?) and an audience more into the polished candy rapping Beyonce than street-level nu soul divas. Never one to shy from reinventing herself to her audience (she once vowed never to release another album) Kelis has struck an unlikely partnership with Dave Stiek and out of nowhere signed to London-based Ninja Tune for Food, and it’s a treat. Jerk Ribs is the lead single and opens Food with a boisterous driving ‘80s percussive edge before the full force of the brass section and horns takes over, whilst Runner is stripped back mature and husky soul classic in the making.

THREE students from Toronto have been propelling themselves into the stratosphere of late after their covers of Gucci Mane’s Lemonade, work with Frank Ocean, weekend gigs at Coachella and collaborations with Tyler The Creator planted them firmly on the centre stage of world jazz. III is their debut album and it’s a rebellious, some might say overconfident, nine-track effort that is as punchy and original as their hip-hop-inspired arrangements whilst managing to avoid the pitfalls of no brainer trip-hop territory. Differently, Still is the closest any of the nine arrangements makes it to what may be considered traditional jazz structures, whilst the rest of the tracks attack at a more energetic dance-driven tempo with standout, Kaleidoscope, erupting into a spiraling, chaotic, yet stunning crescendo of live drum and bass from the quietest of opening piano solos.

THIS is the last thing we were expecting from Mala’s Deep Medi Musik – a label that’s more aligned with deep, bass-driven dubstep, underground UK club nights and a roster of heavyweight DJs – this first album offering from ATOS is all the better for being this year’s finest label curveball to date. ATOS (A Touch Of Struggle) have dropped a blues-infested bass-heavy nugget of modern soul that has only just usurped Album of The Month status by Euro-neighbours, Little Dragon. The slickly produced smooth percussive edges of ATOS are most atmospheric on the title track A Taste Of Struggle but the constant subtle switches between downbeat dubstep, smoky distorted vocals and clever drum arrangements are seamlessly seductive. Standouts include the warping delayed bass of Cosmos, looping blues piano and synths of What I Need and extended album closer, Variations.

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film 190

James watling hits the couch for some indie entertainment.

UNDER THE SKIN 2014 JONATHAN GLAZER

THE lesser-known Jonathan Glazer has hit a home run for British cinema with this his latest offering – a science fiction experience Under the Skin. The man responsible for putting Gandhi into a polyester suit and into one of the best roles of Ben Kingsley’s career as profanity ridden London hard man, Don “I’m a good listener” Logan, in 2000’s Sexy Beast has constructed an eerie, uncomfortable journey into man’s fear of women and indeed the state of the female psyche itself. The mood is that of a period piece based loosely on the novel by Michel Faber and transported to a grim 1970s industrial Glaswegian landscape with an expressionless Scarlet Johanssonlike entity arriving on earth on a seemingly straightforward mission to engage in as much sex with as many men as (in)humanly possible. To this end we spend most of the movie as a passenger in her white van as she trawls the streets of Glasgow preying on her victims, enticing them back to a vacant apartment where . . . well, something happens, as Mica Levi’s omnipresent score hums continuously in the dankness of Glazer’s Grimm fairy tale. Johansson has certainly been picking her fair share of interesting roles of late and this is another turn of casting genius

with her giving a performance unlike anything that she has done before. Her familiarity as a Hollywood A-lister imparts a false sense of security in who or what she actually is and what she’s capable of. It’s villainous twist on the audience’s preconceptions and what Glazer does with her star status is admirable and we get to see Johansson in a role that is grounded in reality, even though that is far from the character she is portraying. It’s equal parts unsettling, voyeuristic, scary, erotic and interspersed with CCTV footage and real people acting as set extras – terrifically well grounded in realism lending Under the Skin a gritty tone that anchors the subject-matter as the storyline builds towards the final closing act with a very unpredictable twist in the tale. Take from this what you will, the nature of Glazer’s film, the almost impenetrable accents and realist dialogue can and do isolate. This is no easy watch, it demands repeated viewing and there is no hand holding being extended by the director. Under the Skin is intelligent modern cinema, startling, abrupt and incendiary, a film that has been produced by a visionary director in his element and one that will end up on most critics end of year list come the close of 2014.

ENEMY 2014 DENIS VILLENEUVE

Jake Gyllenhaal has to be one of the most underrated actors currently working in Hollywood. With the exception of a couple of major misfires (Prince of Persia springs to mind) he is one of the least predictable leading men in film and has amassed a tremendous filmography of edgy, intelligent and respected work. His performance in 2013’s Enemy was overtaken by the far glossier Hugh Jackman vehicle, Prisoners (also directed by Canadian Denis Villeneuve) in which Gyllenhaal co-starred – leaving this short-running oddball indie offering to gather dust until it got a release schedule direct to Blu Ray this year. The fact that it was all but overlooked by audiences and critics alike only lends more credibility to the cult status this trippy little film is slowly starting to attract. Gyllenhaal’s prowess as an actor is put to the test in Enemy, which sees him fulfilling duel roles – firstly as Adam, a history teacher less than inspired with his life, who stumbles across a film one night that features a character in the background who bears an striking resemblance to him. Off we charge into David Lynch territories as he becomes obsessed with Anthony (also Gyllenhaal) and proceeds to stalk his double throughout the brooding streets of a gloomy Toronto. Indeed the comparisons here between Villeneuve’s work and that of Lynch are reinforced by a surprise cameo from Isabella Rossellini as Adam’s mother and the fetishistic appearance of spiders throughout.

There’s not too much more that can be said beyond this synopsis without entering spoiler territory, but needless to say Adam and Anthony are not brothers and their journey of discovery is more terrifying than you can imagine thanks largely to Gyllenhaal’s ability to play both characters so cleverly . . . and also Villeneuve’s talent in creating a dread-soaked waking dream atmosphere that permeates the picture. There are questions that arise about the allegory of Enemy mirroring that of the AngloCanadian divide in Villeneuve’s home country plus obvious nods to Scorsese in one key scene (we’ll leave that to you to spot) plus a lot of hat tipping to Canada’s greatest auteur filmmaker prior to his arrival – David Cronenberg whose seminal work Dead Ringers is one of cinema’s greatest forays into doubles. With pre-production starting on Southpaw – the story of a boxer’s rise to the top only to then find his life collapse around him (with directorial duties being handled by Antoine Fuqua of Training Day and The Replacement Killers fame) Gyllenhaal remains on track as one of the best cosmopolitan actors of his generation. For Villeneuve it will be interesting to see where he heads next with the screen return of another hugely underrated actor, Benicio Del Toro, in the upcoming south of the border crime opus Sicario. In the meantime Enemy is proof enough that modern independent cinema is truly alive and kicking and more creative than ever.



astroyak

moodofthemoment By Dr Deepak | astro-deepak@usa.net | www.astronlp.com | Skype: drdeepakvidmar

Things become quiet again, at least on the surface. Down, down deep below, forces unseen build up to a point of tension to be released again, but not until Christmas or Feb/March next year. The friction of the Force of Control is always in conflict with the Force of Freedom and this conflict will erupt again. This is how life is created. Nice new, fresh, juicy life.

aries Two steps forward and one step back, two steps back and one step forward, and then forward again. This is a time when the rhythm is erratic in your life and it is not easy to proceed on a steady course. The paradox is that there is a lot of learning and achievement and new experience for you now. Creativity is at its maximum and you may be able to come up with something new. It may be expensive. The price of individualism is conflict with others.

leo Overworked and so many decisions to be made in the moment that the mind is frazzled. Doubts about yourself if you can carry the load all by yourself, which is unusual for you. Don’t worry, my friend, the tide will turn later this summer and you can take that trip to someplace you have never been that you have been dreaming about. You will finally hear the soft voice of that little angel of good fortune that has been riding on your shoulder the whole time. Stay close to your friends and share your dreams.

capricorn

taurus

You can travel the whole universe by being still. You can expand your consciousness by being closed to the minutia and distractions around you. This is such a good time for learning deep Truths in your life and to see the Universe in the pebble on the beach. You can use these Truths to make a well-grounded plan to make sure you have the resources to continue your growth in the future. Patience is called for in the details. Rome was not built in a day. But it was built.

virgo Good time to be out of your mind. Take a break from all that logic and thinking. The mind is not connected to any kind of motor and cannot make things happen. It is a good tool for the benefit of other people, but it is of no value to yourself personally. It is not connected to your truth. During this Neptune transit, good to open your heart and follow your intuition. Good to be illogical and irrational for a while. It will even sharpen your logic. Trust in the force and have faith.

gemini

Happy Birthday beloved and may you have many more. If you are wondering what to do in life or what kind of work is best for you, you might be deep down honest with yourself and admit that you would rather not work at all. Life is a song to be enjoyed, a painting to be drawn, a drama to be played, and a dance to be in rhythm with. Quantum forces draw you into another more meaningful dimension at this time and new friends replace the ones you lost.

libra

This is not the time to be nice. Mars is Libra now, since December 2013. Combative, argumentative, impulsive, impatient and easily angered. Much of the time has been opposite Uranus. Sudden impulsive acts, jumping before you look, unpredictable. Best way to use this energy is with physical activity. Good to get sweaty. This is a risktaking time with an eye for adventure. Good to go hang gliding during a wind storm. Time to think of yourself before others.

cancer

This is a time of increased awareness of the secret workings of the unconscious mind of yourself and others. In spiritual terms, you become a Master or Mother Hen or Prophet or Guide, whatever your particular circumstances may be. In professional terms, you see behind the façades and masks that all professionals wear and lead the way to a better path. You are the one that sees the emperor wears no clothes and it is time to speak. In personal terms, you discover strengths you never knew you had. You rule.

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sagittarius There’s no rhyme or reason now except faith and luck. It’s a no-mind time that relies on gut level feelings and a hunch. It is about having new experiences and doing what you haven’t done-before. It is not a cautious time and you may be taking some risks to follow your dream. Money matters are emphasised now. If your dream comes true and you do win the lottery, you may spend it carelessly. If you are living on an inheritance or pension, look again to make sure it is safe and secure.

scorpio

Saturn transit. It’s about self-discipline, hard work, and getting organised on the material plane. It is about being self-sufficient, both materially and emotionally, which usually means being alone. No one ever said Saturn was fun. Not so easy to be joyful with this one. It started for you October 2012 and will end January 1, 2015. The purpose of this energy is to get grounded and practical and ensure you have the resources to carry on. Good to make a plan for the next seven years.

This a most significant time in your life. The truth comes to you now about the impermanence of all things, including yourself. Nothing lives forever and nothing survives the way it was. Mountains wear down, civilizations crumble and fall and you are wrapped in a thin bioplasmic space suit called a body that is aging and getting older with each tick of the clock. Thoughts of death and the fears that come with it. Body, personality, identity wear away and only that which is eternal remains.

aquarius There is a tendency now to argue over beliefs, but the paradox is that your truth comes from deep, deep down in ways that cannot be expressed. You know what you do not know, but it cannot be realised until you hear yourself say it. Any argument you have now is with yourself, but there are no words to express. Best to keep it simple. When you walk you walk. When you eat you eat. You are what you are doing. A belief is a thought about something that never comes and it never happened. pisces You are in tune with the Universe. Neptune is the ruler of Pisces. It goes around the wheel of Dharma every 140-170 years and it just moved into Pisces again in 2011. It will be moving for 14 years through Pisces until 2025. Right now it is affecting most those of you who are born around the week of February 25. It is like having a double dose of Pisces-Pisces. The ego gets smaller to make room for the heart to open up and blossom. The need for achievement is replaced by the need for fulfillment and union.



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Paul W. raps about style, comfort and distinctive architecture with One Eleven futurist Michal Tyles.

michal, it's been more than 15 years

since you made your first foray into Bali. Do you think further developments on the island are a viable prospect for your luxury resort company FPD Asia?

Bali still has immense potential. However for FPD Asia, we will only consider

partaking in a hard-to-resist opportunity; and only if the location is pretty

spectacular, say Ubud or the East coast of Bali.

The One Eleven brand was, as you

once said, “created by out-of-the-box

thinking�. Do you believe that this is timeless architecture that will stay relevant for decades to come?

I hope so. If we go back to the guiding principles of comfort, I think it is

pretty timeless in that sense. I like

to think we provide an environment that

allows our guests to truly relax and get away from the pressures that our day-today lives can often bring.

You are about to move across the waters

to Lombok with a new One Eleven resort on Ekas Bay. Do you see Lombok as the new frontier?

Lombok has always been referred as the younger sister of Bali and quite often overlooked. It is time that it gets

noticed. It's blossoming into a pretty attractive sister!

Where do you see the market heading in the next five years considering the growing wealth in neighboring countries?

The tourism sector is thriving and

with the growing wealth in neighboring countries, people will travel even

more and would want to experience new

destinations. We are creating this new destination in One Eleven Lombok. The project will, without a doubt, have a

positive impact in the area. There are, of course, job opportunities during the

construction period but in the long run, we plan to start a hospitality academy, which will be a part of the compound.

196


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