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UNIVERSOIndonesia UNIVERSO_ID HAVAIANAS_ID HAVAIANASIndonesia
Volume Forty-Four SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2014 The Yak Magazine Sophie Digby, Agustina Ardie, Nigel Simmonds Publisher's PA Indrie Raranta Creative Director Stuart Sullivan Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Ida Bagus Adi Accounting Julia Rulianti Distribution Made Marjana, Putu Widi Susanto, Gede Swastika, Untoro, Didakus Nuba Publisher PT Luxury In Print Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011 Advertising Enquiries Tel: (+62 361) 766 539, 743 1804, 743 1805
on the cover photo: jez smith
www.theyakmag.com e: info@theyakmag.com, sales@theyakmag.com
OK you know the drill. No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from
The Yak Magazine, Kompleks Perkantoran Simpang Siur Square, Jl. Setia Budi, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia
the Publisher. Opinions expressed within this publication are those of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to refuse advertising that does not comply with the magazine's design criteria. The Yak will not be held responsible for copyright infringements
© PT Luxury In Print
on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors.
The Yak Magazine Bali.
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The Yak’s monthly e-newsletter is sent to 10,000 mailboxes every month.
Archives, additional content and more at www.theyakmag.com
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jl. nakula barat 18, seminyak - bali +62 361 846 90 77 info@jenjabali.com www.facebook.com/jenjabali www.jenjabali.com
jl. nakula no.18 seminyak, bali – indonesia
contents 30
Words of Wisdom
34
Check it
36
Vale Robin Williams
Yakety yak
dates with destiny
where are they now
38
Giving Back
40
Planet Yak
50
Goodies
56
Jez Smith
one world
new in the hood
out of the box
culture vulture
122 24
62
profile
Yaz Bukey
66
Susanna's Biasa
70
Kartika Soekarno
brands
interwho
74
Angel Jackson
76
Lexi Blake
People
people
78
Phil Lakeman
80
Karis Wilde
culture vulture
interwho
102
82 90
interwho
Etienne de Souza
yak fashion
P.S. I Love You
102
High Seas
108
Warisan
112
Theatre of The Blessed
114 116
feature
brands
oral pleasures
oral pleasures
Mulia's Table8 oral pleasures
Jenja
62
124
A UTH E N T I C R E G I O N A L I TA L I A N CU I S I N E Trofie al Pesto all’ Antica Tradizione Ligure
Jl Drupadi 7 . Seminyak . Bali / +62 822 36631302 / zibiru.com
contents P: 84 Omnibus: selfie
118
Uma Cucina
120
Red Letter Days
122
Barbacoa
124
Laca Laca Love
126
Bazaar
128
Livingstone
oral pleasures
oral pleasures
oral pleasures
oral pleasures
oral pleasures
oral pleasures
120 28
130
Tirtha Dining
132
Big Six
134
A River Runs Through
140
Regal Times at Regent
oral pleasures
oral pleasures
travel
venting in a villa
142
Nano Philosophy
146
Client Clobber
156
Rave Reviews
158
Star Turns
160
What's What
162
Kids R Us
music
astro yak
advertiser's directory
last word
beauty
fashion freestyle
112
90
56
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yakback “If to enjoy even an enjoyable present we must have the assurance of a happy future, we are ‘crying for the moon’. We have no such assurance”, writes philosopher Allan Watts. “The best predictions are still a matter of probability rather than certainty”, he goes on to add. I concur, yet with each passing day, week and year, we Homo Sapiens (Latin hom - man + Latin sapi - wise, rational) really do make an exerted effort to narrow down the gap of incerto, that unpredictable void of unknown. ‘Man’ has gone on a veritable creative-digital exploration to bring that concept of certainty and happiness within reach. Take Facebook, Trip Advisor and the million and one APPs that assist us, daily, in maximizing an assured future by lessening the need for guessing. Offering us as much accurate and reliable information so as to make us believe we do actually have the assurance of that happy future. Having taken the above into consideration we at The Yak know, as you all do, that none of us are ever going to get out alive, HOWEVER, in the meantime, we are sure going to have as good of a time as we can and we happily invite you along for the ride. First up for your enjoyment is our New In The Hood, guiding you to what’s hot and trending in our neck of the woods. Our Out of the Box tempts you to bike, sit and bag in a typical shop-til-you drop kind of way. Next on our prediction’o’meter is this issue’s Culture Vulture Jez and other peeps with the voice of ‘today’, Yaz, Susanna, Kartika, the Angel Jackson crew, Lexi, Phil, Karis and Etienne. Then it’s one of ours truly talking about the Selfie, a definite assurance that one is alive and kicking! Our ‘barely there’ fashion is just perfect for the climes of Bali, as we get on board a fabulous “crying for the moon” boating experience with Seven Seas and other floating pleasuredomes, mostly in fabulous Flores. Furniture, food and wine, in the depths of Margaret River in Australia, practically drag luxury in to arms reach and makes that happy future all the more assured. Finally, we wrap this issue up with Fashion Freestyle, where you get to choose a bit of what you really like before doing the one thing that is truly guaranteed – putting down this copy of The Yak before heading out to enjoy the present! The time is ‘now’ or, on second thoughts, you might want to take a closer look at our AstroYak beforehand. As ever may The Yak be with you.
32
Dear Yak, I enjoyed the stories in "One World" in the current issue of the Yak. In fact the whole issue is terrific. I wonder if you can do a story on the Bali Children Foundation with which I am involved? As you are aware, Bali Children Foundation provides scholarships for children from impoverished and poor homes in the north and northwest of Bali. As well as providing help with school fees the Foundation also provides uniforms and books. But not only that, the children ¬- from elementary to university - receive extra curriculum activities provided by BCF in English (with an emphasis on spoken English), computer studies for senior students, social clubs, marital arts classes and many other extras to provide the basis for them to have a broad education and a basis for a good career. Next month our numbers will reach over 1,000 students including 68 graduates from Senior High School, some of whom will join the current 20 at university. I do so hope you can help. Please let me know if you need further information.
and The Yak. Both are excellent and very inspiring. Great job by The Yak and Kuban team!
Regards, Robin Dougherty Bali Children Foundation
Will Lovejoy Bali
Of course Robin. We are the proud sponsors of one little chap through your wonderful organization. For more information on how you can help, visit www.balichildrenfoundation.org. Or check out our story in One World this issue. Dear Yak, We just received a package all the way from Bali this morning and were surprised by your magazines, Kuban
Regards, Tiara Forna Karindi London Dear Yak, I have just finished reading the latest issue and it is better than ever. Great work! Excellence in print once again. Diane Somerton Bali Dear Yak Studio, Just got a message from a friend on the flight to Sydney who saw the ad for Laca Laca you produced for us – very impressed, jumps off the page, he says! Thanks so much.
Dear Yak, We have a couple of villas next to Tugu, Kakatua and Kedidi, which my wife runs with support from Elite Havens. We make sure there's a copy of The Yak in each villa for our guests, but it's usually nicked by the time we get there! Please send more. Regards, Alan C Mitchell, Rothschild.
In The Lap Of: Alan Davies You know the bloke. He's the fish-eating, ear-biting permanent panelist on BBC Two's QI with Stephen Fry. A very witty chap. Sharp as a flint and funny with it. Anyway - we were on a trip once to eastern Indonesia and Alan was along for the ride when one of our group, a would-be writer in a tortured moment, asked him for advice on how to further his career as a scribe of note. "It's quite simple," said Mr Davies. " You've either got talent or you don't. If you don't, give it up and stop wasting your time." Which he duly did. Write on Mr Davies.
The authentic taste of home-cooked Indonesian cuisine Now open for lunch. Open daily 12 pm — 4 pm, 5 pm — midnight Potato Head Beach Club Jl. Petitenget No. 51 B, Seminyak, Bali, 80361 +62 361 4737977 reservation@ptthead.com lilin-bali.com
Yak Magazine Uma Cucina Ad July 2014 Final Layout_Layout 1 05/08/2014 17:47 Page 1
COMO’S ITALIAN DINING IN THE HEART OF BALI At Uma Cucina – the newly opened restaurant at Uma by COMO, Ubud – guests are made to feel all the warmth and comfort of an authentic modern Italian kitchen. In a convivial, open-air dining space, contemporary flair revives classic Mediterranean dishes. Seasonally-driven offerings inspire dishes that are easily shared among guests in casual ‘trattoria style’. Pastas, seafood, antipasto platters and wood-fired pizzas make up the menu, with expert staff on hand to recommend the finest Italian wine pairings. For more information or to book, visit umacucina.com, call +62 361 972448 or email dining.uma.ubud@comohotels.com.
SMA L L B I T E S BIG FLAVOURS Luke Mangan is one of Australia’s leading chefs and restaurateur and a shining example of Australia’s culinary culture. He is now growing that culture at Peppers Sentosa Seminyak, home to Salt tapas & bar. Salt tapas & bar brings an Australian twist to the modern tapas bar. It’s all about small bites, big flavours. Open daily for dinner from 6.00 pm
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experiences
BEACHWALK | DISCOVERY MALL | BATU BELIG MALL BALI GALERIA | SEMINYAK SQUARE LEGIAN | SEMINYAK
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calendar
datesWITHDESTINY OKTOBERFEST Book your time off now or be prepared to use up a whole lot of sick days, because the world’s biggest beer festival is kicking off in Munich on September 20. Running until October 5, this annual bacchanalian event will feature lively tents serving up barrels of Germany’s finest brews, colourful costume parades, concerts, carnivals and rides, and plenty of Weisswurst, sauerkraut and pretzels to be had by all. Be sure to book accommodation well in advance because the city packs out with thirsty travellers from around the globe looking for good drinks, good times, good company, and a little bit of debauchery thrown in for good measure.
UBUD WRITERS & READERS FESTIVAL The 11th Ubud Writers & Readers Festival will take place in Ubud from October 1 to October 5, and will honour Saraswati, the Hindu patron goddess of learning, with the theme of ‘Wisdom & Knowledge’. Visitors to this wildly popular cultural and literary event can expect literary lunches, panel discussions, film screenings, poetry slams, street parties, book launches and more, as well as top writers from Indonesia and abroad including Amitav Ghosh, Agung Rai, Goenawan Mohamad, Robyn Davidson, Tim Cope, and Made Wijaya to name a few. www.ubudwritersfestival.com
DIWALI Similar to Galungan in Bali, Diwali is an ancient Hindu festival that celebrates light over darkness, good over evil, and knowledge over ignorance. This year the "festival of lights" will fall on the evening of October 23, which means that the majority of Hindus in India, Singapore, Malaysia, Sri Lanka, Fiji and further abroad will be cleaning out their houses, dressing in their finest, lighting lamps and candles, praying, setting off fireworks, feasting on delicious fare and exchanging gifts with family and friends. This is one of the most joyful holidays of the year for many Hindus, so you are sure to find much revelry and comradery on this evening in any place Diwali is celebrated.
IF YOU’RE IN CAMBODIA . . . September 22 to September 24 – Pchum Ben: This is one of the most important religious festivals in Cambodia, as it is a day dedicated to blessing the spirits of the dead. Locals believe that during this time of year the gates of hell and heaven open and the ghosts of their ancestors come back to earth. To appease the spirits, Cambodians visit temples and bring food to feed both the monks who chant for the spirits and the visiting ‘hungry ghosts’. Rice balls are also thrown into the air or the fields, and many villages provide entertainment in the form of sermons, stories and music to please their ancestors. It is believed that in return the ancestors will bless their living relatives.
IF YOU’RE IN ITALY . . . October 11 to November 16 – Alba White Truffle Fair: Rare is the foodie who can resist the allure of the white truffle, an elusive and earthy fungus that flourishes only in one area of Italy and is available for just a few brief months a year. October is white truffle season in Piedmont and to celebrate, the city of Alba throws their popular Fiera Internazionale Tartufo Bianco D’Alba every weekend throughout the month. You can expect plenty of food stalls selling dishes made with white truffles as well as whole mushrooms, concerts, the truffle world auction, and tours where you can watch truffle hunters and their pigs in action out in the hills.
IF YOU’RE IN THE USA . . . September 16 to September 21 – Kentucky Bourbon Festival: The people of Bardville, Kentucky have been making bourbon since 1776, and their dedication to the fine art of distillation has earned them the title of "Bourbon Capital of the World". To celebrate their history and passion for this amber elixir, the town gives you six full days of smooth bourbon, delicious food, great entertainment and a healthy dose of Kentucky hospitality thrown in for good measure. From black tie galas to historical tours, there is something for all ages and interests at the Kentucky Bourbon Festival.
November 27 to November 29 – Water Festival (Phnom Penh): Known in Khmer as Bon Om Touk, this vibrant festival celebrates the end of the monsoon season in Cambodia and the reversal of the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers. Every year at this time, the capital city of Phnom Penh holds competitive longboat races with teams of rowers from nearly every province. For three days, millions of people descend on the city to watch the races along Sisowath Quay, catch a glimpse of the king presiding over the races and enjoy the concerts, dancing, fireworks and traditional street food on offer. November 29 to December 6 – 9th Edition Angkor Photo Festival (Siem Reap): Cambodia attracts a bevvy of both amateur and professional photographers for its incredible temples, architecture, landscapes and people. Included in the mix are local talents who are already making waves in the art world and up-and-coming shutterbugs ready to make their mark. Catch the latest image-makers in the region at the Angkor Photo Festival, the longest running international photography festival in Southeast Asia. The event will include exhibitions, workshops for adults and children, slideshows and dining events in a number of venues around Siem Reap.
36
these are the days of our lives. by Susan hu.
October 17 to October 26 – EuroChocolate (Perugia): Since 1993, the annual EuroChocolate festival in Perugia has been attracting world-class chocolate makers and thousands of visitors with a predilection for the sweet stuff. This is the biggest chocolate festival in Europe and a great place to sample gourmet cocoa treats and experimental bars, bricks, brands and more. You can also join one of the enlightening chocolate workshops, take in street performances and chocolate art displays, and even book yourself in for a day of sweet and soothing chocolate spa treatments. November 8 – Festival of the Horned One (Rocca Canterano): If you’ve recently caught your partner straying, this is the festival for you. In Italy, horns are a symbol that someone is or was being cheated on by their partner. Many believe that the reference dates back to the Roman Empire when soldiers would return home from battle and be awarded with a set of horns, only to find out later that their wives had left them for another man. To honour the heartbroken, this town just outside of Rome throws an annual parade where actors wearing horns ride floats and recite stories of lost love and betrayal.
October 1 to October 31 – Salem Haunted Happenings: What better place to get into the Halloween spirit than the site of the famous Salem witch trials? For the entire month of October the city will play host to a wide range of events that celebrate its unique history and everything spooky and supernatural. Visitors can enjoy séances with spirit mediums, workshops with local witches, plays, book launches, historical tours, cruises on the harbour and plenty of activities for the little ones including pumpkin painting, trick and treating with the mayor and magic shows. November 19 to November 23 – Flavor! Napa Valley: This celebration of food, wine and fun is an annual event that features world-class Napa Valley wines alongside Napa Valley’s master chefs and graduates of The Culinary Institute of America. From hands-on experiences like cheese making and cake decorating to culinary demonstrations, interactive lunches, winemaker dinners and blind wine tasting competitions, if it is foodie focused, you are sure to find it here. Net proceeds from the event will support programmes and scholarships at The Culinary Institute of America’s Greystone Campus in St. Helena.
Where Are They Now
Vale Robin Williams Nanu nanu. Drew Corridore remembers.
In early August the world lost two of its on-screen titans – Robin Williams and Lauren Bacall. While people would have to be from a certain generation to recall the glittering career of Bacall, Williams’ legacy is entirely current and yet to be fully realised. The actor, comedian and humanitarian (an epithet that is often overlooked) took his own life after a lengthy battle with depression and addiction. But we never really know what, in the end, motivates desperate individuals to take that final step. How, we might ask, can a person who was literally adored by millions feel so alone, so isolated that the future appeared only as a void? While we won’t go into intrusive detail about how Robin Williams died, suffice to say it was not (according to the authorities in Northern California) an “accidental” death such as claimed his contemporaries John Belushi and Philip Seymour Hoffman. Robin Williams had a vast and uniquely spontaneous ability to make us laugh. Directorial genius, Steven Spielberg, says of his friend: “Robin was a lightning storm of comic genius and our laughter was the thunder that sustained him.” Although Robin Williams referred to “madness” as a positive inspirational element in his comedy there is a quote from Anthony Quinn in his role as Zorba in Zorba the Greek that I will always remember: “I like you too much not to say it . . . you’ve got everything except one thing; madness – a man needs a little madness or else . . . he never dares cut the rope and be free . . .” Yet, even while Robin Williams rendered television interviewers from Sir Michael Parkinson, David Letterman, and hard-nosed Australian, Jana Wendt, helpless with his quick-fire repartee I was always attracted to his eyes – which in some kind of quantum way would glint fiercely with mischief and presence but at the same time appear to be looking at a place far away. If, indeed, our eyes are windows to the soul we could, at times, glimpse that his soul was tortured. However, as his wife Susan Schneider says in a statement released to the media: “Robin spent so much of his life helping others. Whether he was entertaining millions on stage, film or television, our troops on the frontlines, or comforting a sick child – Robin wanted us to laugh and to feel less afraid.”
38
Would that we were able to respond in kind. Of course, in defiance of the values that Robin Williams espoused, there will always be those who will cruelly attack the people who are left behind to grieve the loss of a loved-one. As Caitlin Dewey writes in her column in The Canberra Times: “In yet another demonstration of the internet’s bottomless lows – and of Twitter’s stilluncontrolled abuse problems – Robin Williams’ daughter (Zelda) signed off Twitter for ‘a good long time’ after receiving menacing messages from two trolls on the service.” We don’t need to get into the detail of the abuse here but for those out there who would indulge in such heartless and stupid intimidation remember one thing: there are a lot more of us than there are of you and when we find you we’ll show as much mercy as you do. When we ask “Where Are They Now?” in respect of Robin Williams – perhaps more so than any recently deceased “celebrity” – the answer lies in a place that resides slightly to the left and about three ribs up in our breasts. From my octogenarian mother who laughed until she cried at the antics of zany alien, Mork from Ork, in the landmark TV series Mork and Mindi, to myself who watched in amazement at the lightspeed whirring of his comedic brain, and to today’s children who delight (whether they know it or not) in his voicing of characters in animated movies like Aladdin and Happy Feet. There are three, as yet, unreleased movies, including sequels to Happy Feet and A Night at the Museum, that will act as reminders of this great man. Robin Williams leaves behind a catalogue of movies in which he played serious roles such as Dead Poets Society, Awakenings and The Fisher King. He won an Oscar and numerous other industry accolades but one feels that, while he appreciated the appreciation, he was more concerned with attaining excellence in his chosen crafts. And he certainly did. While the late, great Frank Zappa had a comet named after him I feel that astronomers could locate an entire galaxy – not too, too far away – and name it for Robin Williams. Should that happen we would always know where he is. We could look up through the darkness, remember his warmth and compassion, his boundless humour . . . and feel less afraid.
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giving back
stephanie mee highlights three epic charitable causes.
BALI CHILDREN FOUNDATION Far removed from the glamorous resorts of Bali, the island’s remote rural areas rarely reap the benefits of tourism, which means that many people in these regions depend only on agriculture to survive. Manmade and natural disasters often wreak havoc on crops, throwing many farmers into a vicious cycle of poverty that is passed down to their children. Dropout rates in rural schools are very high, and many children have no other option but to work on the land rather than continue their education. Bali Children Foundation was established to offer educational opportunities to disadvantaged children around the island with an emphasis on remote locations. To do this, they run a number of programmes for youth in various villages that provide community education, scholarships ranging from elementary school through to junior high, senior high and university, and special language and computer courses. They also raise money to improve educational facilities in rural villages. The majority of the foundation’s work is in remote communities on poor agricultural land amongst the hills in the north and west of Bali. In these communities the average dropout rate for children at grade six is 40 per cent. Working with community leaders and families, they have developed successful strategies to keep the children in school, not just until junior high school, but all the way through. For more than 12 years now, Bali Children Foundation has worked tirelessly to achieve their goals, and their hard work has paid off. In the 2013-2014 school year they had a zero dropout rate at the elementary level and less than one per cent all the way through to year 12. In addition, they encourage growth and sustainability, so that the children can improve their own economic futures, as well as the futures of their families and the communities. In fact, many of the children they have helped give back to their villages in the form of youth groups and continuing education. This year 69 students graduated, nine will go on to tertiary studies on BCF scholarships, two on government scholarships and the rest to work. In the work group 90 per cent were employed within a month of graduation. This extraordinary result is supported by the additional English and computer studies the foundation provides in the communities. With over 300 English and computer classes delivered per month, BCF children at graduation have extra skills and are highly sought after by employers. Since July 2014, the foundation has over 1,000 children in north and west Bali in schools supported by scholarships. They continually need individuals as well as corporate sponsors to enable their work, as sponsorships cost from IDR two million for elementary, three million for junior high and four million for high school. You can donate money or goods to the foundation, sponsor a child or
40
volunteer if you are an education professional. www.balichildrenfoundation.org MITRA BALI One of the major draws for many people to Bali is the abundance of high quality goods produced by skilled artisans. For centuries the Balinese have been renowned for their superb craftsmanship when it comes to producing jewellery, wood carvings, paintings, textiles and handicrafts to name a few, and their traditional methods and adroitness continue on today. Local products can be found in tourist shops around the island, and handicrafts exports add a huge boost to the economy. However, the sad fact is that many of these hard working artisans receive only a small percentage of the benefits that their products bring. Craft producers rarely know to whom, or to which countries their products are being sold or traded and at what price. Employers and middlemen may not offer a fair deposit before the artisans start work or a fair price after the work is done, and in some circumstances they may not pay at all. In the end it is mainly the middlemen and the shop owners who reap the benefits of the products. It is this inequality and exploitation that prompted Agung Alit to found Mitra Bali in 1993. His aim is to engage craftsmen in the tourism industry so that they are empowered in their work and lives. In this way, he hopes to eradicate exploitation, decrease poverty and find a better balance between the rich and the poor. To do this, Mitra Bali has become actively involved in assisting marginalised craft producers to understand fair trade and develop a fair trade model. Mitra Bali works on the core fair trade principles of clear dialogue and transparency, equality and mutual respect in trading partnerships. They calculate fair payments with producers based on a percentage of the sale price of the products, and the producers receive 50 per cent of the total payment up front. They also offer artisans free training workshops on design and product development, interest free loans, emergency and old age benefits, and funds to build clean water supplies and toilets in villages and support village cooperatives and farmers. Craftsmen also work closely with Mitra Bali’s product design, development, and marketing teams to keep on top of the latest sales trends in the global market and interesting innovations. The artisans can then draw on their traditional skills and source appropriate local materials to create high quality products that sell. You can find a range of locally produced products in the Mitra Shop on Jalan Monkey Forest in Ubud including homewares, home decor, gifts and jewellery. www.mitrabali.com
SOLE MEN For every tourist on the ‘island of the gods’ there are countless Balinese and Indonesians living in dire poverty, many with debilitating diseases and in abject misery. Often they have no access to resources or assistance and suffer in silence while the world turns a blind eye. This is where Yayasan Sole Men Indonesia steps in, a Bali-based Indonesian non-profit foundation that is dedicated to alleviating suffering and helping the disadvantaged in Bali. Sole Men was founded in 2010 by Robert Epstone and Beat Schmid De Gruneck, both of whom led vibrant lives prior to settling in Bali. Robert has many years of experience trekking mountains in a number of countries to raise money for cancer research and facilities, and developing volunteer teaching projects for children of migrant workers in China. Beat Schmid De Gruneck was once a Swiss Merchant Marine and is a passionate sailor who has travelled around the world by sea. The two men met in Bali and discovered a shared concern for the plight of thousands of Indonesians living on the streets and in slums. When Robert heard about an old friend in China who had decided to go a year without shoes to raise money for the poor, he began to think of doing something similar in Indonesia. He declared his intention to Beat, and Sole Men was born. The two men pledged to live their lives barefoot until Sole Men raised one million US dollars. Their aim is to “to be in solidarity with those who don’t have a choice to wear or not wear shoes”. Robert and Beat planned a 535-kilometre barefoot walk around Bali, which allowed them to get their message out, raise funds, and work with a medical team from Anak Anak Bali to hold health checks and distribute health and safety information to schools, orphanages and villages along the way, as well as teach children about how to protect and respect the environment. This would be just the first of several walks for the Sole Men team. Today Sole Men also focuses on searching out and assessing individuals in need of assistance. They work with many accredited agencies, aid groups and projects that work to alleviate suffering, and they have helped to provide medical care and therapy to people with physical and mental disabilities and diseases, raise money for organisations like Bumi Sehat and Anak Anak Bali, and with government support, they have even relocated impoverished families to new safe and sanitary residences. The foundation is ever in need of donations not just in monetary terms but also food, clothing, mobility and disability aids, sponsors and more. You can visit their website to review their wish list to see what is currently needed. www.solemen.org
HEADACHES AND HANGOVERS BE GONE The AYANA Resort and Spa has launched an exclusive new massage treatment developed by renowned Japanese orthopedic and anti-aging expert Tadashi Nakatsuji.
I SCREAM YOU SCREAM WE ALL SCREAM FOR . . . . . . is a new boutique frozen yoghurt shop that’s creating a buzz in its Batu Belig location but has customers coming from afar. Bali’s a healthy place, well sometimes, and the owners decided that we needed some healthy treats on the island. Using only premium brands with no added sugar, fruits are brought in daily from local markets and other toppings are on offer including goji berries, chia seeds, dark chocolates and marshmallows. The design of the store follows the modern and environmentally friendly ethos and is
Overworked? Lousy lifestyle? Bad posture? No matter how naughty or nice you have been over the Summer holidays help is on hand. The massages target each guest’s specific needs and relieve muscular complaints and boost skin radiance and suppleness. It’s perfect timing for those recovering from the high season” – or those just about to start their own. Tel: 702222
www.ayanaresort.com
fitted out with recycled materials to offer a cozy and comfortable atmosphere. Tel: 5573098
www. yoghurtphilosophy.com
Yak Map. M.2
SOME LIKE IT HOT Popular Taco Beach Grill has opened a new flagship taqueria in Batu Belig right near Naughty Nuri's. Renowned for its huge variety of salsas and tortillas that are made from scratch throughout the day, the corn tortillas are made from the traditional Aztec recipe making them as healthy as they are deliciouso. The home of the original Bali Guling Taco, Asian-Mexican fusion cuisine original delicacies are also the Smoked Duck a L’Orange and Beef Rendang Tacos. For those that like it hot there is a Sumatran Chicken Taco with Tiger Sauce using only the spices available from the Batak tribe of Sumatra. Boldly going where no taco has gone before, Taco Beach is epic. Free delivery in Seminyak. Tel: 8546262
www.tacobeachgrill.com
SOUQ: nothing bizarre about it Top drawer indeed, we are loving the sound of a hand-curated collection of clothing and jewels for the fam, homeware, and a café, with a collaboration taken on board by two top designers Sophie Gargett and husband Peter Kemp. Designers for the gals include MKHANH, Laurence Pasquier and Mianliao and urban menswear for the lads is sourced by Nonstandardissue. The kiddies aren’t left out with the label Firecracker, and there's Emma and Lu PJs to add some spark to the spunks. The owners' own line, Kid, offers pashminagrade cashmere loungewear worn by the likes of the Jolie/Pitt clan, for easy at home comfort and jet set travel togs for the front of the plane. Homewares are hand chosen by the nomadic owners – collecting from around the globe: bespoke furniture, brass cutlery, hand-carved glassware, jade tableware, gold-plated cloisonné vintage toys and other jewellery treasures including those by artist Irma Wy sold only in Paris, Geneva and now Bali. The café is open for breakfast, lunch and pre-dinner nibbles with organic nosh and the signature Souq Sangria and Toby’s Estate coffee to top things off with a perfect finish. Tel: 082237801817 42
www.souqstore.co
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BALI’S MOMENT IN THE LIMELIGHT Celebrities, movies and magic, the 8th annual Balinale, to be held between the 12the and 18th of October, is a film festival that presents over 50 international award-winning films from over 20 countries. Balinale is the only international film festival in Indonesia with participants from around the globe joining in creative workshops and speakers programs. This platform gives local filmmakers a way to present their work to a global audience as well as offering networking opportunities in the international film industry. Endorsed by the Bali Governor’s office and various ministries, there is some real power behind the scenes. This year’s headlining film is Korean drama A Girl At My Door by July Jung. Chosen to compete at the Cannes Film Festival, the movie has garnered rave reviews and is sure to do the same here in Bali. Tel: 270 908
www.balinale.com
ACQUA PERLA SPA WHO WILL BE CROWNED?
Take a dive into the Acqua Perla Spa at Double-Six Hotel and feel like a mermaid or merman
Bali’s beautiful beaches, sunsets and vibrant views are all enhanced by its exotic women.
with the aquarium-themed atmosphere and the water healing therapy choices. Bubbling
Bali Tropix, a new tanning and skincare brand, has announced its annual Miss Bali
water displays and mood lighting that changes throughout the day enhances this two-
Tropix beauty contest . . . in search of the purrrfect glamourpuss to represent the brand
storey spa featuring glass art pieces by artist Ron Seivertson that reflect different forms of
and it’s open to all women between the ages of 18 and 35. Photo submissions have
marine life. Pampering options are luxe facials, massages and body scrubs but the piece de
already started and there is US$8,000 in cash and prizes and a modeling contract on
la résistance is Bali’s first sensory hydro trail – where guests can enjoy an all-senses water
offer. The aim is to have “the winner reflect the beauty of the island”. Competing head-
therapy with seven different clusters alternating hot and cold therapy that detoxes the body
to-head with other top skincare brands, sponsors include Kuban magazine, 69 Slam,
and restores the mind and improves circulation. This is followed by a steam and body scrub
The Shampoo Lounge, The Barber of Bali and Heineken Beer. Online voting kicks off
session in a glitzy mosaic tiled room with an exfoliation stone bed to further rid you off those
on September 10th and the finals will be held on October 18th at VH in the Beachwalk
nasty toxins. Top brands Valmont, Elemis and Babor are featured as well as double and single
shopping mall. Online voting will ask “friends” to like them on Facebook, which counts
therapy rooms, male and female club-style changing rooms and a recovery lounge with a
as a vote – so get your friends, family and fans to start rallying around you.
library and refreshments complete your perfect day or evening pampering session.
www.missbalitropix.com
Tel: 8499189
Uma cucina Turns One Uma Cucina – the Italian-inspired restaurant and lounge bar at Uma by COMO, Ubud – celebrates its first anniversary in September with three special events. First up is Cucina Tavola, a family-style lunch dining concept on the 21st, whereby different courses will be served family style, in the middle of the table. Rp350,000++ per person for a four course set menu. This is followed by a Pasta Workshop by Paulo Vitaletti – Uma Cucina is inviting its guest chef to conduct a pasta-making workshop. Assisted by Uma Cucina’s executive chef Nicolas Lazzaroni, Paulo will be demonstrating how to make different forms of pasta. Guests take part in creating parts of the cooking demonstration, which takes place on the 24th from 11am to 3pm. Cost: Rp650,000++ per person. Next up on the 27th is the restaurant’s Anniversary Night: Welcome drinks and canapés will be served to guests before the dinner. Paulo Vitaletti and Nicolas Lazzaroni will be combining their culinary expertise to create a four course Italian style set menu based on the concept “Roman Family Recipes”. The dinner will be accompanied by a wine pairing option as well as live music performance. From 6.30pm to 11pm. Rp650,000++ per person. Tel: 972888 44
www.umacucina.com
www.acquaperlaspa.com
e Voyage My Magnifiqu T RESOR EACH DUA B I NUSA L A B EL SOFIT ESCAPE ANTING E CHARM AN ENCH BALINES TS EE M ANCE EG TR EL RE EAT FRENCH HFRONT SH BEAC IN A LAVI SA DUA, , NU , LOT N5 89 ATA BTDC 1 849 28 PARIWIS (+62) 36 L: TE KAWASAN SIA .COM 3 INDONE INUSADUA AL BALI 8036 LB TE FI INFO@SO
Swimm ing poo l
sim e Clu b Mille
Luxury room with pool access
A taste of tropical luxury on the magical island of Bali BOASTING MAGNIFICENT VIEWS OF THE SHIMMERING SEA, SOFITEL BALI NUSA DUA BEACH RESORT’S SPACIOUS ROOMS AND SUITES OFFER SOPHISTICATED STYLE AND EXQUISITE COMFORT. REVEL IN A WORLD OF REJUVENATION WITH A SAVANT MIX OF WORLD-CLASS FACILITIES, FRENCH COSMETOLOGY AND TRANQUIL SURROUNDS. DISCOVER ALL OUR MAGNIFIQUE ADDRESSES ON www.sofitel.com
RIJSTTAFEL PROMOTION Styled as a tropical garden retreat, the Terra Terrace Restaurant & Bar at Amarterra Villas Bali Nusa Dua offers guests all-day dining with fusion cuisine blending authentic Indonesian gastronomy with modern influences. For Indonesian cuisine lovers, the resort's chef has created a unique Rijstaffel Menu. The Dutch colonial feast was created to provide a banquette that would represent the multiethnicity of the Indonesian archipelago. It consists of many side dishes served in small portions, accompanied by rice prepared in several different ways. The native Indonesian dishes combine aromatic ingredients such as lime leaves, lemon grass, coconut milk, and subtle spices; Beef Rendang, Sate Lilit Bali, Fish Soup, shredded chicken, Sambal Chicken Liver with Potatoes, vegetable Long Bean with yellow paste, potato croquet, served with White
Perez in The Hills Nico Perez – the modern voice of classic elegance – has turned his Gallic charm on Ubud this summer with the opening of a stunning new menswear store. Situated directly opposite Mozaic restaurant on Jalan Raya Sanggingan, the brand continues to go from strength to strength with its range of chic, elegant but sartorially cool menswear in the
Rice, Brown Rice, and Yellow Rice, creating a wonderful array of dishes to match all tastes. The Rijsttafel menu is best enjoyed with spouse or among friends over a few hours in comfortable surroundings. Done. Tel: 776 400
www.amarterravilla.com
sophisticated and classic colour palette for which they are known. If you are not in the hills, head to his flagship store on Petitenget, Seminyak. www.nicoperez.co
Yak Map. Q.4
come one come all Under a new tag line of “Something for Everyone”, the Canggu Club is no longer a membersonly club. Now featuring a Splash Water Park, Strike Ten Pin Bowling, Bounce Trampoline Centre, Fitness Centre, (with a range of group classes), a lap pool and sports ground, Tennis Centre and a spa. Enjoy the peace and quiet as your children take part in the newly established Junior Sports Academy (JSA) that caters for families living on the island or just here for a jolly holiday. Instructors are all professionally trained and most with international experience and credentials. The programme includes gymnastics, soccer, tennis, basketball, swimming and dance, with exciting new editions like bowling and trampolining lessons. Day passes, weekly and monthly passes are all available. Members are offered discounts. Tel: 8483939
www.cangguclub.com
Yak Map. N.1
serious brass at the top Double Six Luxury Hotel is an all-suite luxury concept in pole position on the beach of the same name, with an immense infinity pool that winds around the property and is already making waves amongst the industry. The Lagoon Bar at the front of the hotel has an all day menu and Gelato carts serving Limoncello popsicles to keep guests chilled out. Generous, open, modern spaces with striking views overlooking the iconic Double-Six beach have been designed by renowned architect Freddo Taffin who also did the sister properties Ku De Ta and Cocoon. Guests can expect top service, an eye for detail and “clutch my pearls” worthy panoramic sea views. Interiors designed by HC2 give the property a seductive appeal. Personal butlers and Hermes amenities are just a few of the perks. Tel: 730466 46
www.double-six.com
Yak Map. P.13
SOCK IT TO YOU SAKe ON SUNDAYS Sunday’s at the Grand Hotel Nikko just got sweeter – their Benkay Japanese Restaurant is holding court with an impressive Sunday Brunch. A wide range of authentic Japanese cuisine is available from 11am to 3pm with sushi, sashimi, tempura, udon and other favourites and includes a sake shooter or Sapporo beer. You can also upgrade with a chilled glass of champers. After brunch guests receive a welcome pass to relax in one of the four interconnecting pools or lounge on the A BOHEMIAN VISION
stunning secluded stretch of beach on the Indian Ocean. The five-star Grand Nikko
With its Balinese roots and contemporary edge, Driftwood swimwear is free spirited and
Bali is located atop a 40-meter cliff in Nusa Dua and has 180 degree views of the
unique. Reshaping the norms of swimwear with its fresh and non conventional aesthetic,
Indian Ocean a stunning setting for a stellar Sunday.
Driftwood is wild, unpredictable, refined and harnesses a love for embellishments, island life
Tel: 773377
www.grandnikkobali.com
and the ocean. For designer Ute Gaenshirt, Driftwood is an expression of creativity, a vision of empowerment inspired by an untethered imagination. With a penchant for only the best craftsmanship, Driftwood Swimwear is uncompromising on quality and design. Created by only the finest of traditional artisans, each piece is delicately handled and fashioned using contemporary interpretations of classic techniques. It is in the attention to detail in which Driftwood Swimwear is uniquely defined. www.driftwoodswimwear.com
The Colour of Lava The Next Gen must-have in bathrooms, kitchens and in fact wherever you fancy, is Enamelled Lava Stone. After a painstaking eight year development period, Couleur Lave have finally opened their showroom on Jl. Raya Kerobokan. Architects, interior designers and private homeowners are overjoyed with enamelled lava stone as any graphic design – logos, lettering, even family crests – can be stencilled or lasered onto the surface in question. It withstands temperatures of 380 degrees Centigrade (Couleur Lave have even developed their own Modena induction cooker), it is scratch and slice proof so is ideal for kitchen counters. It is also waterproof, so that’s a tick for bathroom tiles, splash
Wellness. Luxury. Privacy
backs, sinks, bathtubs, fountains – the sky
Christmas just came all at once at Vietura, Artisan of Anti-Aging lifestyle clinic. A massive Up
is the limit with this new design material.
to 50% discount off all treatments until December is being gifted to those that want to really
Apart from being a natural, non eco-
pick and choose which they would like to do, as Vietura has them all. Totally personalised,
invasive product, it is also UV resistant –
Vietura’s professional advisers walk and talk you through the myriad of treatments, counsel
Couleur Lave’s 1,500 colour options stay
you on nutrition, lifestyle and wellness. The result is a made-to-measure series of treatments
as sharp, or as soft, for about 25 years,
that will reveal the new you. The fact that Vietura is located within the luxury resort of Sofitel
be it in tropical or mountain sun. Best go
Bali Nusa Dua means that you can stay, play and treat yourself all in a week or less, away from
and order a table for my outdoor patio.
the hustle and bustle of city life.
Tel: +6281916205796
Tel: 8492988
www.couleurlave.com
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www.vieturabali.com
HABITAT WITH HUMANITY IN MIND Sanak Retreat in North Bali near Munduk, is a philanthropic resort whose owners have set up a sustainable retreat that allows local villagers an income as they proudly show off their patch of paradise. A totally off the beaten track holiday experience Sanak, meaning “kindred” is set amidst a farmer’s canvas of verdant rice paddies and surrounded by mystical mountains. The ten handcrafted wooden bungalows and a villa all have stunning views, private cut stone pools, and all the amenities of any five star stay. Handpicked antiques and Indonesian artifacts accent their understated elegance. Unique cultural activities and wild excursions allow guests to explore this relatively undiscovered part of Bali. Picnic in a canoe on the lakes, forage in the jungle for your dinner or create your own ancient remedy for a memorable treatment in the separate spa. Have no fear dear as you can also choose a totally hedonistic holiday and simply indulge in the beauty that surrounds you. Tel: 7200057
www.sanakbali.com FLOORSHOW AT EDOGIN What’s more fun than a floorshow? A floorshow with food flung around by master teppanyaki chefs, showing off their skilled maneuvers with a bit of fire, flair and live theatre thrown in for good
iPhone and ANDROID APP for everything Yak
measure. At Mulia’s Japanese restaurant,
You know you’d be lost without us – so download our iPhone and Android App, totally
Edogin, you can indulge your teppanyaki
free. Choose from over 400 entries (hotels, bars, restaurants, tours and services), read
cravings with the Omotesando, Shinjuku
the blurb, see the image and if you are interested give them a call (directly person to
or Honmoku menus that all include
person). Do yourself a favour, book yourself a table, a tour or a treatment. Thankfully GPS
fresh seafood and cuts of meats specially
will help you get there if you are out of your comfort zone - just show the taxi where you
chosen by the masters themselves,
want to go and boom you have just reached your destination. So head over to the App
bringing you a culinary delight that is as
Store or Google Play, type in yPodBali and download. Our Yak App is constantly updated
fun to watch as it is to eat. Japanese, if
and reflects the places we love to go to, see the things we want to see and taste the
you please.
food we want to taste. All in all, yPod Bali is Bali’s best spoiling tool! Tell all your friends,
Tel: 3027777
give them the gift of Bali on their phone (did we mention it's free?).
www.themulia.com
Land of Milk & Honey It’s the setting, it’s the view, it’s the people, oh hang on, it's the food and drinks too. Milk and Madu (Milk and Honey) have been able to get all the boxes ticked by all people, a hard thing to do in expectational Bali. Perching on Jl. Pantai Berawa, this roadside cafe is serving us exactly what we crave. Let your imagination run with this: Smashed avocado open sandwich with tahini dressing, homemade dukkah and olive oil; or once your mouth is watering picture this: Creamy goats cheese on woodfire sourdough, topped with spanish onion, confit tomatoes, parsley, lemon and olive oil; then as the hunger pangs start to set in salivate with this: Sundried tomato pesto and goats cheese rustic flatbread pizza. Top if off with Light and fluffy lemon poppyseed cake, upside down pancakes or a gluten-free brownie and accompany that with a latte and a fresh, fabulous Tropical Om! Maybe now you’ll know where the saying comes from. Tel: 4081872 50
www.milkandmadu.com
Yak Map. O.1
DEEGAN Red/Blue
GARLANDBlack/White
DEEGAN Black/Yellow
by deus
by deus
by deus
IDR 780.000
IDR 790.000
IDR 800.000
DEUS SOUTH TO SIAN SCRAMBLERS IDR 160.000.000 www.deuscustoms.com
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W-C-010-A_Chair Upholstery USD 315 www.balquisseliving.com
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Slogan Frame Leather Satchels. GBP435. www.angeljackson.com
LAMPU' Series K #01, Ceramic Ceiling Lamp by BAMM DESIGN - IDR 690,000 www.sksbali.com
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Culture Vulture
David A. Carol meets celebrity photographer Jez Smith, a chap of many parts.
JEZ, how would you describe your trademark photographic style, and how did it develop? I think my style developed because of where I grew up in a small town in the middle of industrial England. It was very, very grey. As is typical in the UK, there is a seemingly constant soft grey drizzle. I feel my style is both a rebellion against and tribute to that. I love shooting strong women, sculptural shapes and atmospheric lighting. The kind of women I grew up admiring in film and fashion pictures, but didn’t often see where I lived. I often place these goddesses in decaying glamorous surroundings, or industrial, gritty urban locations. To me, the shadows reveal as much in a picture as the areas that are lit. I love textures, peeling paint, concrete, wood, anything that contrasts with the beautiful creature I’m shooting. How did you get your first big break? There have been a few 'how did this happen to me' moments: interning at Interview magazine when I was 21 and straight out of uni, living in NYC and getting my first little shoot. I was working for Interview as a graphic designer at the time and in an editorial meeting I just put my hand up and said, “I’ll shoot it!” They actually said yes. I got the film processed at a Kodak one-hour processing lab because I didn’t know where the professional labs were and handed in it over in the branded envelope. They thought it was some cool naive street thing! I guess the moment that really changed the direction of my career was when an amazing man called Eric Matthews, then Creative Director of Harper’s Bazaar
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this and following pages: the world of jez smith.
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Australia, called my newly-acquired agent for a meeting. He looked through my book which was a mix of shoots for independent magazines – great mags like Oyster. He told me none of it was appropriate for Harper’s, but he loved my lighting and if I was prepared to shoot a "more sophisticated woman" then he wanted me to shoot for them. I did two shoots and they put me on contract. I was 24 or 25. I bumped into him recently and thanked him, and he told me what a bloody demanding pain in the ass I was! How has improved technology changed the way that you work over the years? Technology is just a tool. I don’t care what camera I use, from my iPhone to my Phase 645DF. It’s just a way for me to get the vision in my head out there. I’ll shoot on whatever tool is best for the job, and I don’t care about megapixels, I care about the quality of the light. How often do you use the camera on your smartphone? I use my iPhone camera all day, every day. My Instagram feed is split into mostly iPhone pics, which I date, and uploads of my professional work which I don’t date. Eighty per cent is iPhone I would say. Anything that’s not clearly a job is taken with the iPhone. What are your feelings about Bali? I love Bali. I think coming from the UK I didn’t know what to expect. I came here on holiday before first shooting here a few years ago. It was so beautiful, the people so amazing, and I was surprised by how much the sense of culture and way of life remains despite the huge tourism industry. It felt more "different" than I expected it to, which was hugely refreshing. I pretty much fell in love with the beauty of the people, and the chaos of the streets. What’s it like to shoot here? Shooting in Bali is always fun and an adventure. It’s unpredictable, with some beautiful places to shoot. My ex-producer, Omee Moon, lives here now and always finds me the most amazing locations. She knows my taste so well that it’s like she’s seeing through my eyes when she’s location scouting for me. What are your favourite haunts in Bali, and why? I’ll admit to being a Potatohead fan. If only there were something like that in Sydney. La Lucciola is an old favourite of mine. I always have at least one meal there when I’m in Bali. A lot has changed since I first shot the Tigerlily campaign in Bali. Some of my favourite places no longer exist, as with any place that’s growing, developing and changing. How did your life change when you became a judge on Australia's Next Top Model? To be honest, it didn’t change that much. Obviously, I got recognised on the street, but I was relatively used to people in my industry knowing me by that time so it wasn’t a huge deal. Mostly, people are very kind and sweet so it’s a pleasure to meet people who enjoy the show. It certainly didn’t change where I went or who I hung out with. I’ve always shot celebrities, and some have
become my friends over the years. I’ve met everyone from the Dalai Lama to Madonna so I’m not really fazed by any of that stuff. It’s all part of the job, and I’m much more in awe of someone because they're an amazing person, incredibly kind or mind-blowingly talented than simply because they're famous. Doing the show was a lot of fun. We were very passionate about finding a great model, and we genuinely had different tastes so it was just like every casting I ever do! What was interesting was that the audience had so little idea of how involved photographers are in the casting and pre-production of shoots. What prompted you to leave the show, and did people understand your reasons? I left the show because I’m a big softie. I always got very protective of the girls and would get upset when they got eliminated. I genuinely become attached to whomever I shoot, particularly when they are young, and I feel very protective of them so it was tough for me. I used to hear the producers saying, “Jez is crying again, get a close up!” After three seasons on the Australian show, I felt that I’d had “the experience”, and it had been exciting. Most importantly, I’d fought my phobia of being filmed while I was working, which was the original reason for doing the show. I’m still involved with both the Australian and US versions of the show. I was a guest judge and shot the final two shoots for three seasons of the US show. I still do guest-spots for them as I did on The Face with Naomi Campbell. Now it’s just become great fun. If future generations could only remember your work by a single photographic image, what would you choose it to be? Probably one of my more personal photographs of the dancers at the Sydney Dance Company. I love the company, am a huge dance fan and came to know the dancers well. I’m in awe of their work ethic and talent. My first solo exhibition was of them in rehearsal, no lighting, no production, just two months of hanging out with them as they rehearsed eight hours a day. It was at the Sydney Opera House so was a big "pinch me" moment. Actually, I hope that the shot they remember me by is yet to be taken. What can we look forward to from you in the near future? Hopefully, I’ll be taking more pictures that people love, that make them smile, and maybe even move them; pictures of the places and the people that I love… in the cool twilight. www.jezsmithphotography.com
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profile
David A. Carol riffs with Yaz Bukey, queen of plexiglass trompe l'oeil sophistication.
Photo: Serkan Emiroglu
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this girl.
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profile
YAZ, you grew up the daughter of a Turkish Ambassador in Saudi Arabia, Egypt and Algiers. How would you describe your childhood, and how has it shaped your artistic approach? My childhood was like living in a golden cage. My parents were movie lovers, so I was able to watch all kinds of films at a very young age. I guess that’s how I first developed my love of images. I started to buy LPs, choosing the albums by their covers. It was album artwork from bands such as Culture Club that opened my eyes to dressing up, and new possibilities with hair and make-up. How did a last generation Ottoman princess become ‘The Queen of Plexiglass’? I did exactly the opposite of what I was programmed to do. From a very early age I knew I had to create my own identity. I was seeking freedom. Which qualities first attracted you to the material of Plexiglass? I love this material because it's capricious. I developed a trompe l'oeil technique to allow me to tell my stories. I pushed it so far because I wanted this material to be seen as precious. That's why all my pieces are entirely handmade, and my accessories have become regarded as fine jewellery. How would you describe your own work to someone who hasn't seen it before? Colourful, sexy and story-telling. It makes people cheer up, and often has a double meaning. You could say it’s trompe l'oeil sophisti-pop. You seem to find inspiration in the fantasy imagery of exotic locations. It’s not necessarily about locations. I dive into an existing story – it could be a movie, a song, a muse – and I transform it. My autumn/winter collection was inspired by the city in which I was born, Istanbul, but my research began with Alice in Wonderland. That may not be obvious when you see the collection, but the story goes like this . . . You are walking in the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul and you cross a mysterious black cat and start to follow him. You fall through a hole trying not to lose the cat and suddenly find yourself in a big room from a decadent Ottoman era. There are belly dancers, snake charmers, boys playing backgammon and smoking shisha . . . This is my fantasy world. When starting on a collection, where does the first kernel of inspiration come from, and how would you describe your creative process? Images, music, movies, muses . . . my creative process is like making a
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movie. I am both the director and the actor. I choose the music that will play in my office for the entire season. I dress up as the characters I will become in my movie. I live my collections. What's it like to collaborate with other designers, and who would you most like to work with? It's a different process when you delve into other people’s minds. I like to explore materials other than Plexiglass. It becomes a completely different story when we come together. I would love to collaborate with a haute joaillerie brand such as Van Cleef or Cartier. You once said that dreaming is “the best moment” of your day, and that you were going through a “flying phase”. How have your dreams been recently? Oh, I love dreaming and most of the time I can remember them. They are very important in my creative process as they make my day. Sometimes, I concentrate on a dream that I had, and I can see a continuation! Dreams are my secret garden. How much time have you spent on Bali, and how do you spend your days and nights when you're here? I went to three spots. First, I was with my long-time friend Ozlem Esen. Then I went to Ubud, and finally to the Bukit Peninsula to a wonderful place called the Temple Lodge. I also saw my ‘forever friends’, the KTZ boys. I love their work and Marjan's too. Could the Island of the Gods one day inspire a Yazbukey collection? Of course, but I don't like to go to a place and create right after a collection. Bali is now in my heart and my dreams. I will come back for sure. Years ago, I had dreamed of this place without having previously seen any pictures and then I saw it in real-life. The shade of green in Ubud is a colour that exists only there. www.yazbukey.com
yazbukey style.
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brands oh susanna.
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biasa - it's one of bali's best known brands and it keeps getting better, writes sarah douglas. photo: lukas vrtilek.
SUSANNA Perini sits comfortably in her skin. In the gallery space above Biasa+, the former Biasa ArtSpace, her office overlooks a collection of art, menswear, kaftans, vintage accessories and homewares. The bi-weekly market is on today and the gallery space and the garden behind it is alive with music, food and friends, many of them spanning two generations, even three. Some of the familiar faces have been in Susanna’s life for many years. Having a space that welcomes them all, a living space that reacts with the people who use it, is a large part of her success. Everything is connected; it’s always been that way. It is 20 years since BIASA first opened in a tiny space across the road from the current boutique and we reminisce over a journey that has impacted on her both personally and professionally. In 1994, Jalan Raya Seminyak was only beginning its transformation from a jungle track to the road we know now. Susanna began her life in Bali as the partner of the man of many colours, Paul Ropp, who would become the father of her children, her partner for many years and a mentor she values. “I grew up around the fashion business in Italy. I found a very different way of working in Bali and I had to adapt. I met Paul when I came to Bali for a photo shoot for an Italian magazine (her lifelong hobby is photography). I was producing a small line called Zero Zero at the time we met and I fell in love with Bali,” she explains.
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Things were vastly different in Bali in the early ‘90s. The spaces that house BIASA and Biasa+ were factories and workshops then. Even in those days Susanna had a keen sense of design and art and it was only a matter of time until she wanted something that reflected her own vision. Tomorrow’s Antiques supplied some of the world’s biggest retailers at the time. Susanna worked on the collections and Paul created thousands of accessories and the textiles that still form the backbone of his business. Together they had a successful business but Susanna started to feel at odds with the corporate world of retail. “Working with large overseas companies, I started to feel uncomfortable about the disconnect between the buyers and the producers. They didn’t care if India was experiencing major flooding, if the order was late they cancelled it, despite the fact that thousands of hours had gone into it, that entire families relied on those orders just to eat. If something was wrong or late, they simply rejected it,” she says. “I wanted to create something that was more sustainable, that supported the people who were producing things and I began to think about a brand that supported a different ethic, something much more personal.” At the time that Susanna started to tire of the politics of the big brands, she also saw an opening for a very different kind of retail store on the main street in Seminyak where she lived. A chance to design, produce and retail her own collection. “I had produced an order for a Japanese company, they were very strict about the tiniest rejects, that stock is what I opened the first store with. From there we began to design original garments that would represent our first range for BIASA. At that time, I had a friend and collaborator, Hakama. The only fashion retailer on that stretch of the road was called Baik Baik (Baik means good, Baik Baik is very good). He jokingly suggested we should call the store BIASA.” The rest is history. Susanna wanted to set herself apart from the productions created by Tomorrow’s Antiques. She moved away from colour, she downsized the productions and she collaborated with people she shared a creative connection with her. This has become a pattern she has repeated through the years of BIASA design and when establishing BIASA ArtSpace and Biasa+. “Looking back I see how important the connections are, one thing leads to another. I learned over the years that there are a lot of forces that come into play. Projection is part of the manifestation and so I stand here now and ask is this how I pictured it would work out? The answer is yes and no. There have been a few miscalculations along the way, but largely yes,” Susanna says. Biasa ArtSpace was originally designed as a retail space but by that time the road was so crowded with shops and cafes, she decided to rethink it. In early 2000 a group of friends used the space for an exhibition and Susanna
officially launched Biasa ArtSpace in 2005, a time when Indonesia was welcoming a new era in its political landscape. “When the Suharto era drew to a close, artists who formally had no voice experienced a freedom they hadn’t known before. It was a very creative period for contemporary art and Indonesian artists needed a space, the energy was high, they were just beginning to spread their wings. Now of course, the Indonesian contemporary art scene is world famous,” she says. Yet some of those who entered her world during that time remained to collaborate. One of them was the photographer and artist, Matteo Basilé, who exhibited at Biasa ArtSpace and went on to collaborate with Susanna on the iconic campaigns that propelled BIASA’s reputation beyond Bali. The idea of using real life models came into focus through those campaigns and that experience led to her latest campaign. BIASA’s current campaign is the result of another collaboration with Indonesian photographer and artist, Davy Linggar. Susanna’s vision came full circle by using young people who represent the next generation in Bali. Many of them she has known since they were children, growing up alongside her own two girls. Twenty years is a lifetime in the fashion industry. Petite, intelligent and forceful, Susanna has created spaces that reflect her personal tastes yet also allow her room to be creative, to encourage growth and provide the greatest luxury of all, the ability to change her mind and her direction. With retail outlets in Seminyak, Ubud, Sanur and Jakarta, BIASA is a brand that offers something quite unique and is well known beyond Bali. “BIASA is about affordable elegance, the clothes are not constricted or forced, the people who wear it remain themselves. I ask myself can everyone wear it and still feel special? Yes, because no two people will wear it in the same way,” she says. Her latest project is still a work in progress, at BIASA+. She remains committed to promoting art and artists, wherever they come from and this will form the basis of BIASA+ as it grows and morphs, as have all her projects. There is nothing static about BIASA, the collections, the retail spaces, the collaborations or the art. Her focus is on working together with people who share a vision, inspire her and move her forward. “BIASA is a container for me, my connection with creativity, it’s the reason behind much of what I do. What matters to me are the connections I’ve made with genial minds, unique people who don’t follow the norm, I consider them visionary and as I look back I realize more and more the impact they have made on my life and the business,” Susanna says. Personally and professionally, Susanna has been moved by all she has experienced and the people and events that have brought her to this point, another reason this current campaign resonates so strongly for her; it’s about looking forward and looking back. It comes back to the creative connections she has made and those she has yet to make. One suspects there is a lot more to come. www.biasagroup.com
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timeless style: biasa campaigns through the years
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interwho
Michael Pohorly meets kartika soekarno, the daughter of indonesia's founding father. photo: lukas vrtilek.
Your father was the first president of Indonesian, a position he held for 32 years, and your sister, Megawati, was Indonesia’s first woman president in 2001. Your bio reads as a true citizen of the world, what countries have you lived in? Due to the political unrest in Indonesia, I was born in Tokyo as my mother is Japanese. We lived in Paris until I was 18. I attended college in Boston and after graduation I worked in Tokyo as a TV reporter, before moving to New York to work with an advertising agency. My husband and I were based in London before moving to Jakarta. So you speak Japanese, French, English, and Indonesian? Yes and I promised my husband when we got married I would learn Dutch, but that hasn’t happened yet. The airport in Jakarta is named Soekarno, but the Wikipedia page says Sukarno? What’s the official spelling of your family name? I get that all the time, it’s a simple answer. Sukarno is the Americanised spelling and Soekarno is the Dutch. Your father comes from Javanese and Balinese heritage, what role has the island of Bali played in your life? I feel very strongly about Bali. My father’s mother was Balinese and he worshipped her. I’ve been coming to Bali since I was a child and when we attended cremations it always had a strong impact of me. I’ve always had this amazing feeling whenever I’ve come to Bali. But I miss the old Bali. It has changed so much. The Legian that I knew was just empty white beaches and now it’s developed so much – yet I find the spirit of Bali is still very strong and the culture is very strong.
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legacy of love.
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interwho
What inspired you to start working with the children of Indonesia and begin the Kartika Soekarno Foundation. During the time of the Southeast Asian economic crisis in 1998, I was working in New York with an American NGO. I attended a presentation at the Indonesian embassy about the crisis of many children being forced to drop out of school and begin working as child labour to support their families. Our NGO decided to initiate a campaign working with UNICEF and CARE called “preventing a lost generation” to help the children stay in school, because of course, the children are the future of a country. How did that experience change your perspective on Indonesia? In Indonesia I met with Steve Woodhouse who was the representative for UNICEF. He took me to the Posyandu’s which are the community maternal health centres run by volunteers, and I was very moved to see these already low-income women volunteering their time to give back to the community and care for each other. When that campaign ended I decided to begin my own foundation and I was very lucky in that Steve was retiring from UNICEF and agreed to join me. How did you transition from working with teachers and children to tackling the Indonesia-wide problem of trash? Three years ago my husband had a wonderful opportunity to work in Jakarta and it was fate, as I had never lived in my country. I discovered my country through my five-year-old son’s eyes as we travelled everywhere. We saw beauty, but everywhere we went we also saw trash. I was shocked. Whether we climbed a volcano, went to a hot springs or to a beach. Even just a few days ago I went on a boat tour of Flores with friends and we saw trash. I was with visiting friends and I was embarrassed as this is my country, and it’s scary to see that the people don’t seem to care. By inviting Jeremy Irons to Indonesia to show his film Trashed, you have inspired The Yak magazine to organise multiple screenings of the film in Bali. I also hear that President-elect Joko Widodo also attended your screening? Yes, Bapak Jokowi was very moved by the scenes in Indonesia. We can see it is a global issue, but Joko will definitely review Indonesia’s strategies for trash solutions. I was shocked by many things in the documentary, Trashed. What surprised you the most when you saw the film? The segment on Jakarta . . . to see the rivers in Jakarta, was very worrisome. It’s so tragic and Indonesia needs an eye-opener, but the people of Indonesia must see that it’s also a global issue, because I think if we just point out fingers to them it’s not going to work. Everyone needs to understand that we have to slowly go back to some of the old ways again – because all of the old ways of handling food and have been replaced by an invasion of plastic, and this is one of the things that is destroying the islands.
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In your op-ed piece in the Jakarta Post you wrote about your sadness to see the “magical island of Bali has rivers filled with garbage and beaches filled with plastic” . . . It is tragic. It’s what I feel sad about in Bali – there’s no overall vision in Bali and they’re selling off the island. The infrastructure isn’t there to support all the tourism. I think the local government should do more. But I guess in the world, nothing good lasts forever, and it’s a great place and everyone tries to come here. Bali is such a special island in comparison to other islands because it’s not just about a beautiful beach, it’s the culture and the religion, and I hope it’s not going to change too much and the over-development slows down. Your Japanese mother, Devi, announced not too long ago on an Indonesian talk show that she went sky diving for the first time at the age of 72 – how’s she been an inspiration in your life? My mother overcame many difficulties in life. We weren’t allowed to visit my Father when he was under house arrest. When I was three, my mother, despite political threats, took the chance to fly to Jakarta from Paris. When we landed in Jakarta, my mother went straight to see my father. The next day she was bringing me to see him at last, but my father had passed. My father died without ever seeing me. My mother started her life again in Paris and I have admiration for a woman who has singlehandedly brought up a child under such tragic circumstances. She is currently working in Tokyo and has a successful career as a TV commentator. Considering her age, she is still working and has an amazing amount of energy. I admire her beauty, strength, energy and intelligence but I cannot say she has always been a source of inspiration. Your father is a big figure of history for Indonesia, what’s your sense of your family’s place in history and your own legacy? My father was really loved and respected his country. He stood up for the independence of nations and his legacy will always remain. We must fulfill his legacy by implementing the Pancasila – harmony, humanity, peace, ethnicity, diversity . . . it says it all. My sister was the first Indonesian woman president and made ways for the first democratic elections in Indonesia. She is also the first politician to break away from the political and established elite to groom, and hand over, the torch to a new politician. With the election of Bapak Jokowi, a new exciting era will begin in Indonesia. They have both been a tremendous inspiration for the work of my foundation and to honour each child's right for quality of education and basic health care. I hope one day, one of them will be a brilliant grassroots politician who will contribute to the future of Indonesia. What’s up next? We are currently looking for a sponsor who can provide a lorry so we can show the movie, Trashed, throughout the villages of Indonesia. Images are much more powerful than words. www.kartikasoekarnofoundation.org
S I M P LY B E AU T I F U L P E A R L S
Visit us in our new stores opening in Jimbaran, the Bali Grand Hyatt hotel and Seminyak. Mention the Yak magazine to receive 20% of any full priced jewellery. Jimbaran: Jimbaran Corner Blok A17, Jalan Bukit Permai, Banjar Pesalakan, Jimbaran. Bali Grand Hyatt: Grand Hyatt Hotel, BTDC Nusadua. Nusa Dua, Bali. Seminyak: Jalan Raya Seminyak No. 73, Seminyak, Bali. Offer not available in conjunction with any other discount, voucher or on sale merchandise.
people
ANGEL JACKSON
Katie and Millie Smith are riding a wave of success with their range of upmarket bags . . . Laurie Osborne meets the dynamic duo. photos: lukas vrtilek.
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A FEMME fatale spirit flows through every hand-stitched inch of Angel Jackson, the Bali-based British accessories brand. Since catching the fashion world by surprise eight years ago, sisters Katie and Millie Smith have grown a cult following for their distinctive handbags while turning down high-street giants and setting new benchmarks in ethical production. “Our friend suggested writing a book about our experiences running Angel Jackson called ‘How Not to Run a Fashion Label, showing people what really happens behind-the-scenes of a fashion start-up . . .” says older sister Katie. “. . . because we totally winged it and we didn’t have any training,” interjects Millie. “The brand was started on credit cards. We had some crazy experiences across London, Paris, New York, Bali and Calcutta,” Katie says. The sisters continue each other’s sentences with a child-like passion that makes it almost hard to keep up. Have they always been close? “Yes, I would say so,” says Katie, “growing up, I was a really naughty teenager so I was pleased when Millie turned out also to be really naughty.” Do their other siblings ever feel left out of their adult adventures? “No, I think they’re quite relieved, actually,” Millie says, “they’re much more executive types. They’ve got proper jobs.” Upon foundation, Angel Jackson’s first priority was to open its own factory to ensure exceptionally high quality and working conditions for its team of tailors. “We’ve been working with our team since day one to harness their innate ability by building on the traditions that they were taught,” Katie says. “All our tailors have really responded well to their training, and take such pride in their work. We produce quite differently because we don’t believe in having a production line. Each tailor produces the entire item and is responsible for the production process from beginning to end. This way, there’s a lot more love and satisfaction that goes into each bag. “We started off with just a production manager and his three tailor friends. It was all done by word-of-mouth. As we’ve grown, we’ve got a great name for ourselves because we pay well, give health benefits and, well, it’s a bit of a laugh. We look out for each other as a family. It’s really important for the flow of the business that everybody gets on together,” adds Millie. The Angel Jackson sisters often fall in love with dynamic female characters from movies, record covers and comic books. “It’s their personalities,” Katie, “good old Alabama Whitman from True Romance was a real inspiration for the whole brand. There’s also ‘Nikita’ who’s feminine but fiery, and Modesty Blaise, the 1960s comic book character. There are a lot of these qualities in the personality of Angel Jackson. She’s attractive, she’s feminine, she’s strong and independent.” “And fearless,” adds Millie. “She’s the woman that we all want to be. She’s like a diamond thief, but incredibly cool and glamorous.” The Angel Jackson designers continue to describe their accessories label as a real person so I tell them that they’ve almost created their own comic book heroine. There’s a pause as the sisters exchange a meaningful glance. “Are we going to talk about that?” Millie asks Katie, who nods in return. “Actually, we’re working on that at the moment with the second illustrator from the original Modesty Blaise comic, which is amazing. It’s all in process now. We’re literally down to designing hairstyles and outfits.” What was his reaction when they first approached him with the project? “Really excited by the concept. He told us that in the 1970s his wife would go
through copies of Vogue and tell him exactly what the characters should wear, and how they would have their hair. It’s definitely of an era.” We can expect those illustrated bags to be made from silks and cowhide, but not from python skin. “We use water snake instead,” Millie says, “it’s way more sustainable as the breeding rate is much faster. If you take a hundred pythons out of the world, it takes a hell of a long time to grow them back again.” “I think there’s a bit of a myth about snakes being farmed in Bali,” adds Katie. “They all come from the wild. Millie and I want to go undercover and meet all the snakeskin suppliers to find out exactly how it all works.” Sounds like it could be a storyline for the new comic . . . “Yes, it could be Angel’s first mission!” chimes Millie. “On one hand, we need to get to the bottom of where the snakes come from and see how they’re treated. On the other hand, we need to bear in mind that it’s an industry for the local communities, and needs to be supported.” Is there time to hang out with the other Bali-based designers? “There are so many creative people in Bali, and we are friends with a lot of them,” says Katie. “Millie’s husband’s a DJ and has a lot of residencies around the island. In terms of a social life, there’s always something going on here if we want it.” “There are lots of like-minded people here,” adds Millie. “I think you have to be of a certain mind-set to live on an island.” Despite their global focus, the Angel Jackson sisters remain discerning when it comes to retailers, with few given permission to stock their products. “When we first launched, Topshop asked us to design a range for them. We said no because at the time it was our first season and we didn’t want to be known as the brand that was launched by Topshop. “That’s how we’ve always made our decisions on the integrity of the brand. If we’re going to be working so hard on something that’s very personal to us then we don’t want it to be overshadowed,” Millie says. Angel Jackson’s next mission is to collaborate with Liberty in London, and introduce design courses and workshop tours at its Denpasar factory. With projects mounting up, what is a typical working day like for the siblings? Katie spills the beans: “We wake up, have a swim and might go to yoga. Then we have our first meeting of the day together over coffee before meeting with everyone at the factory. Next up might be meetings with suppliers or overseas buyers. Design sheets go to the factory, and we get samples back so we can make changes . . . this Friday, we have to go and have our photograph taken for some unknown magazine called The Yak.” Spontaneous laughter fills the office where the current collection sits on a spot-lit display. They tell me it’s all about reworking classic designs and giving them a dynamic, modern makeover. A neutral palette of biscuit, grey and lavender is punctuated with orange, reds and teal. But where do these colour combinations come from? “Inspiration could come from anywhere, but I’m always looking at online blogs,” Katie says, “my favourite one at the moment is TrendLand.com. Mind you, we could just be driving along, and see some colours . . . “. . . like the grey-and-yellow in New York,” Millie, “we saw a grey pier that had pale, yellow stencilled writing on it, and we both went . . . Ooooo-ooooh!” www.angeljackson.com
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PEOPLE
Laurie Osborne raps with Australian fashion visionary, Alexia Blake, and gets the warp and weft on her creative process. photo: jason reposar.
How long have you been based here in Bali? I’ve been here almost a decade. It’s gone so quickly. I really didn’t intend to stay for so long. My next-door neighbour and I started a fashion line together, selling in Australia and kept coming back to Bali for production. Eventually, I dropped out of college and fashion became footware, then swimwear, knitwear and now homeware. How has the industry changed since you’ve been here? It was a different world then. There were so many boutique designers. Australia was booming so you’d come up with a range to take back, and people would just buy. It didn’t really matter what you were selling. It all changed dramatically when the global economic crisis hit. It forced us to restructure our businesses and adapt to the way the world was moving. These days, you need a lot of money behind you, and it’s very competitive. I walk into Topshop and Zara and I don’t know how they’re producing it for that price, let alone retailing. I think the way to go now is to have your own online shop so you don’t have the same overheads and you’re trading on your own terms. Do you find that the Island of the Gods directly inspires your work? Bali is not very different to where I’m originally from, which is Papua New Guinea. My grandparents were British ex-pat plantation owners that would eventually move to Australia. The society parties that I grew up with had that tropical linen feel to them, and today I use a lot of those colours in my collections of textiles and soft furnishings. I want Meraki Home to give the customer a taste of another culture. I’m inspired a lot by Morocco, India and Turkey. I went on a trip to Nepal last year, which was amazing. I kept losing it over the beautiful coloured textiles. They give me this indescribable feeling that makes me want to interpret the colours and patterns in my own designs. Ultimately, I’m not looking for sales numbers, I’m looking to create something that inspires someone else and changes the environment that they live in. Can you take me through your creative process? My dad’s an artist as well, and he would always say, “We don’t own our artwork, we channel it. It comes into us, and it’s our responsibility to get it out.” When I’m working on a range, I pour everything into it and I get so much from it. Some people are like antennae. What goes in comes out as some kind of creative expression. I’m inspired by everything around me, and that’s been broadened by the access we have through the internet.
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Do you find that the internet is accelerating the fashion zeitgeist? For sure . . . there are often six fashion ranges a year now. It’s hard to keep up. If you’re a designer, it’s just hectic all the time, but I think we like it like that. We’re all a little eccentric in a way. Which materials are you most drawn to? I use mostly 100 per cent linen, and cotton with a bit of texture to it. At the moment, I’m able to source all materials locally. In Bali, you can come up with an idea and have it in front of you by the end of the week, which is incredibly gratifying for a designer. You can literally transform a thought into something physical. At the moment, I’m in production on a new collection called Marrakesh, inspired by the city’s markets and fabrics. There’s also another side to the collection called Belinda which is inspired by my aunt – a beautiful high-society woman. As a child, I remember her home in Ascot, Brisbane, was filled with linens, baby-blues and vases of fresh flowers. It was a very tropical place, with lots of black-andwhite stripes. Are there any other projects out there on your horizon? For me, Meraki Home is like a lovechild. It’s a great creative outlet, but I’ve also got a project I’m doing with 7shores, which is a French surf company. We’re re-launching the whole brand so I’m doing men’s, women’s, textiles, graphics, everything. I might be spreading myself a bit thin because I’ve also started a new bikini line called Islakiini. Who do you spend your time with when you’re not being an antenna? Most of my friends are in the fashion industry. We’ve all got kids together now, and we’re blessed to have a tight-knit community. It’s one of the things that really keeps me in Bali. In Oz, you have “mateship”, but my friends here are like my family. It’s hard for any of us to leave. We call it “The Bali Curse”. I’ve tried three times in the last year, but I always end up back here. www.merakihome.squarespace.com
lexi - a good blake.
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PEOPLE
David A. Carol gets together with Philip Lakeman of Pesamuan Ceramic to put a glaze on Phil’s artistic journey. photos: lukas vrtilek.
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PHILIP, what first brought you to Bali, and how long have you been here? It’s been 21 years. Our thing is really architectural ceramics. Back in Australia my ex-partner and I were doing production, marketing, everything ourselves. The beauty of coming here to Bali was being able to train staff because in Australia that was really difficult for a number of reasons. Originally, everything was under one roof, but about three years ago, my business partner and I decided to call it a day. By that stage, we’d bought out our Indonesian partners. A way for me to continue was to sell the original factory. Now, the showroom’s in Sanur and our factory’s 10 minutes away. Where on the planet does your work end up? Bali’s great because there’s always a new hotel or a renovation happening, but we send our work throughout Asia, the Middle East, America and the Caribbean. How influenced by Balinese culture are your ceramics? It’s always been a source of inspiration. All my team are Balinese, and some of them have been with me for 20 years. Some of them came to me with no knowledge of ceramics but they have this innate ability with their hands. It comes from their culture. From a very young age they’re helping their parents make offerings or learning to dance for temple ceremonies. It’s almost like they’re talking with their hands. In no time I was showing them how to decorate ceramics, and now they do it 10 times better than I ever could. It’s in their blood. Is it easy for you to source materials in Bali? Was that another reason to locate here? No, not really. A lot of our glazed materials come from either the UK or Spain. I’m really particular about the materials that I use. We can source some from Surabaya and Jakarta, but a lot of the colours and the melts for the glaze we have to import from Europe. How are your ceramics made? The only machine that we use is a kiln for firing, and a compressor for spraying glaze on, but everything else is done by hand. We use a technique called sand-casting where we make the moulds out of timber, press them into volcanic sand and then cast before putting them in the kiln. It’s like making cookies.
And every cookie is slightly different? Yes, a lot of clients see a tile and think that each one will be exactly the same. I have to educate them by saying it will be similar, but not the same. The variation in colour is the beauty of what I offer. If you want something exactly the same, it’s better to go to a commercial factory. Is everything collected in a reference library? Yes, and it’s huge. After 20 years I’ve got hundreds, if not thousands, of designs. A lot of it is now digitised, thank goodness. It’s a bit like fashion – I’m always coming up with new ideas and new techniques. Speaking of fashion, would you say it inspires you directly? It does, but I’m not sure I would look at Stella McCartney’s collection and say there’s a parallel between what we’re both doing. I think what most inspires me about fashion is the idea that you’re constantly re-inventing yourself. Have your designs changed since your partner left? They probably have. We were like yin-yang, like Gilbert and George or Pierre et Gilles. People would ask us, “are you Philip or Graham?” That was an amazing adventure, but everything runs its course. I’m two years into running Pesamuan on my own, and I’m really enjoying it. I’m the driver and the passenger all at once. Would you consider collaborating with anyone else again? Yes, I’m not a precious artist. What else can we look forward to in the near future? Recently, a designer from Jakarta had the idea to use ceramic panels on the exterior of a three-storey building in Nusa Dua called GWK. It’s almost finished, and it’s one of the projects I’m really excited about. It’s the first time my work’s been used as an external detail, especially on that kind of scale. Do you think of it as work? It’s a responsibility, but no, it doesn’t feel like work. With work, there’s the question, when are you going to retire? I find that such a weird concept. Hopefully, I’m going to be doing this until the day I die. As you get older, you get better. Your ideas become clear, you’re much braver. You’re not so influenced by other people, and you’re probably doing your best work. For me, good art comes from knowing when to stop. You can overdo things and lose that spirit and emotion. I think that’s the greatest challenge for any artist. www.pesamuanceramic.com
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interwho
Christina Iskandar gets cozy with Karis Wilde – friend to the stars, fashionista, and very handy with a hoop . . . photos: lukas vrtilek.
KARIS, you were born in Mexico and moved to Southern California at a very young age. At 19, you started working in fashion design for the likes of Marilyn Manson, Queens of the Stone Age, Slipknot, TLC, Ludacris and even Angelina Jolie. How did this come about? Actually it started a little earlier than that. I was only 17, queer, and stood out like a sore thumb. My first week out of high school I was introduced to a fashion designer and I started working with her right away. By the age of 18 I was working for myself . . . it all happened so fast. I don't remember much about that time as I was sleep deprived from my lessons in textile design. I would start school from 8am to 1pm then work from 2pm until 2pm . . . rinse and repeat. You are acclaimed as one of the best (hula) "hoopers" on the planet, having appeared with Christina Aguilera at the American Music Awards, Pink, and Scissor Sisters. Can you tell us a little more about those experiences. I don't get star struck at all, it's just work. I'm there to perform a service, I get in, I get off, I get out. Truly, it's been wonderful working and collaborating with so many artists. Some of the situations are completely surreal but at the end of the day it's my job to deliver my best. What led you to hooping and does it have any special meaning for you? I started working at a young age in the music industry. By 19 I was so burnt out I picked up the hoop to start relaxing and release stress. You can't get pissed off with a hoop around your hips. The career I achieved from hooping was a happy accident. You have been quoted as "embracing your androgyny". Can you enlighten our readers more?
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I’ve never been a believer that beauty is reserved for women. I have always felt I was the space in between a boy and a girl and that really is the best of both worlds. When I learned not to be fearful of both my masculine and feminine sides I felt free to be exactly who I was meant to be . . . me. What is the most rewarding aspect of your work Karis? Whether I perform or work in design I get to meet the most interesting people which has led me to travel in both arenas. The reward is finding unique people in all corners of the globe that are passionate, exciting, off-beat and like-minded. Who inspires you and why? The men of Bonanza! Is it true you attended your high school prom in drag? Can you tell us why you did such a brave thing? It wasn't a question of strength. At that age I just wanted to find myself. I didn't feel comfortable in a suit so I grabbed the nearest heels and ball gown and called it a day. You are dressed in Prisma for The Yak. What did you think of The Beaded Boudoir and the lovely Sandra? Sandra is the most fabulous woman I have ever met! I felt like a kitten with new fur in the Beaded Boudoir. And sliding into the Eleven44 jewellery turned my purr into a growl. What brings you to Bali? Travelling the world I had seen all the like-minded folk living and creating beautiful pieces of art here. I knew Bali was somewhere I had to explore for myself. We've merged together like peanut butter and jelly! What does the future hold for Karis Wilde? What does the future hold . . . I don't even know what I am having for lunch. But if I had it my way I would be running my own label.
karis front and centre.
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people material man.
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Etienne de Souza designs fine furniture – combining rich and earthy materials with a broad imagination and an eagle eye for style . . . writes Laurie Osborne. photo: lukas vrtilek.
ETIENNE, how would you describe your creative process? It’s always exploration. Natural materials are just like books. You have to cut them to read them, and then you get the right inspiration. If it talks to you, then you become friends. It’s turning something raw into something very sophisticated. This is the point. When you have inspiration, you must sketch it down immediately. It’s like flashes. If you don’t do it, it’s lost. It’s like you’ve received a gift and you say, “no, I’m sorry, I’m sleeping”. You can’t close your doors. What are you working on at the moment? I am preparing an exhibition for Jakarta at the end of October. I don’t say I’m at work. I say, “I’m at my dreams.” It’s the same thing when you go to a restaurant and have a meal. The chef dreams things, and the creation is what the chef has been dreaming of. You cannot put dreams on the side, and work on the side, and life on the side. They are connected. What first brought you to Bali? Eighteen years ago, I was having dinner with a friend of mine called Edward Tuttle. Ed’s an architect who has designed a number of Aman hotels. I was doing some jewellery work in Bangkok, and I told him that I was having some trouble. In Paris, I could not find the right ebony and some precious woods. He said, “Come on, Etienne, just take a flight and go to Bali.” Well, after two months here, I flew back to Paris and closed down my business. Just like that? Yes, because the appeal of the raw natural material cannot stop you, especially for addicts like me. You open these materials, and it’s like magic. Discovering these materials made me think, why not leave Paris behind? My friends didn’t understand, and thought it was a crazy idea. You have success and a social life, they said, why go to a small island where there is nothing? I tell you, I made the right choice. So, what are the raw materials that drew you here? First of all, there’s mother of pearl. Then there’s buffalo horn, and an abundant variety of sea-shells. We don’t touch the ones that are endangered and we do a lot of recycling. I wanted to have a workshop because I don’t like to stick to a specific drawing. You have more and more ideas when you work with a team. Every day we try
to go a step forward. When we started, it took three years to train them to a standard of international luxury. I love them . . . they are very patient. Without them, there’s nothing. How long does it take you and your team to produce a piece? The minimum is three months. Clients sometimes ask for a shorter timeframe, and I tell them that I’m sorry, I cannot do it. There is a process. You cannot break the rules of art. Otherwise, you might as well go and buy what is already available in the street. Speaking of which, do you have many imitators? At the beginning yes. My first collection was with Linda Garland. She said, “come on, make some money and put your pieces in some hotels”. A year later, there were imitations on the streets of Seminyak so I took all of my work back from the hotels, and upgraded the technique. Where in the world do your finished pieces end up today? Everything is for export, and pieces go everywhere: New York, Miami, San Francisco, China, Hong Kong. One client wanted a very extravagant table for a yacht. For the last eight years, we’ve been doing furniture with Peter Marino, who is a big star architect in New York. He trusts me and gave me work for Louis Vuitton and Chanel. Your home is incredible, by the way. How long have you been here? Since 1999. It was left abandoned. It had become a jungle and nobody wanted it; they didn’t have the energy to refurbish it. I love the garden, it’s so inspiring. The elements of nature are so important because we cannot live outside of them. You sound like you might be a surfer too? I’m not, but my children like to surf. In life, any positive action without expectation comes back to you hundreds and thousands of times over. I adopted my two children when they were seven and three years old. Now, they are becoming incredible human beings. They will spread the positive action. This is what I love. www.etiennedesouza.com
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enough about you. andrew e. hall addresses the me generation.
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“I wonder if the course of narcissism through the ages would have been any different had Narcissus first peered into a cesspool. He probably did.” - Frank O'Hara (author).
“Darkness cannot drive out darkness: only light can do that. Hate cannot drive out hate: only love can do that.” - Martin Luther King Jr. NARCISSISM – the Ancient Grecian myth actually involves a lily pond which captured the image of a young Narcissus who became so enamored of his reflection – and of his imagined beauty – that he died of thirst . . . dopey bugger. Earlier this year we heard about an experiment conducted by the Facebook organisation on 700-thousand-plus unwitting account holders. The company divided the sample group in half and manipulated the news feeds of each group in different ways and monitored the responses. Half of the sample had its feeds manipulated in a negative way (i.e. it was basically bombarded with “bad news”), the other half received positive feeds. Not surprisingly the posts of the sample that was manipulated in a negative fashion became increasingly negative, and the reverse happened in the other sample. No permission was sought by Facebook, and apparently the company (that exists to make profits for shareholders despite Mark Zuckerberg’s assertion that it’s all about communication and community) took no account of what consequences might arise should vulnerable people in the negative sample have an adverse reaction to being manipulated in such a fashion . . . I began my relationship with the (orthodox) media at the broadcast desk in a radio station. Since then I have always loved the medium for all sorts of reasons, and I have a habit in the mornings of listening to news bulletins from the national broadcasters of Australia, the UK and USA. I like to think I’m reasonably well informed about what is happening in the world around me. But my morning routine has met staunch resistance from a number of women “friends”. “I hate the news,” says one of them, “why do you listen to that stuff?” . . . before sitting down to a couple of hours on Facebook while I make breakfast (which one can do whilst listening to the radio). For one very simple reason: I would rather receive my information from those who are trained in gathering it, filtering it for accuracy or lack thereof and relevance, and presenting it in a considered and balanced manner. Not from narcissistic twits in the Twitterverse who can speak at length on any given topic because they are happily unencumbered by knowledge. As the wonderful English performer, Passenger, says in his song, I Hate: . . . I hate pointless status updates on Facebook FYI we were never mates We pretend to be friends on the internet
When in real life, we have nothing so say To each other, oh brother I have love for my mother For good times, for music and my mates Yeah I laugh, and I live and I have love to give But sometimes all you can do is hate . . . I’m not suggesting for a minute that social media causes narcissism but they are an excellent facilitator of what I would call a “culture of narcissism” that spans cultures. The increasing ubiquity of “I” promoted by “selfies” and all the other SM jargon that is so attractive to low-level and extreme narcissists alike is infiltrating every day “real” life in quite an alarming way across the globe’s societal and cultural landscapes. “Narcissistic creep” might be a pithy way of putting it. And a consequence of this is a skewing of the concept of what “friend” and “love” really is, as Passenger so astutely points out . . . and, indeed, the concept of “community”. As author Jonathan Franzen observes: “Since our technology is really just an extension of ourselves, we don’t have to have contempt for its manipulability in the way we might with actual people. It’s all one big endless loop. We like the mirror and the mirror likes us. To friend a person is merely to include the person in our private hall of flattering mirrors.” My interest in writing on the topic of narcissism was piqued after reading a new book by Melbourne, Australia-based essayist and author, Anne Manne, titled, The Life of I: The New Culture of Narcissism. In part, also because I’ve had suspicions of my own about the increasing ubiquity of this destructive human condition. Anne Manne’s work is both notable and fascinating – at times horrifying (an emotion that narcissists at the extreme end of the scale are incapable of unless something has happened to upset the centrality of their own warped world view). It begins with an account of the actions and reactions of Norwegian right-wing fundamentalist, Anders Behring Breivik, who murdered 80 of his country-folk on the first day of the summer holiday season in July 2011. First he set off a bomb outside government buildings in the capital, Oslo – killing 11 and injuring many more. Then, dressed as a policeman, went on a shooting spree on the island of Utøya, where young labourmovement idealists had gathered for a summer camp – killing 69. His only reaction when he finally (and easily) surrendered to real Norwegian police on Utøya was to demand a Band-Aid because he had cut one of his fingers during his rampage. And the only time he showed any emotion (he wept) during his trial was when the court replayed a “manifesto” he had recorded on an Internet site . . . touched by his own righteousness and passion . . . and image (in the very way Narcissus was touched). The multiplier effect of Breivik’s actions extends to literally thousands of people and the ripple effect continues to the present day. Anne Manne suggests two other narcissist case studies: disgraced cyclist, Lance Armstrong, who has never expressed remorse for his doping habits (except remorse for actually being caught), but rather has consistently represented himself as a “victim”. A lack of remorse
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is a signature trait of the narcissist. The Life of I also features author Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged et al) who, by dint of her relationship with Alan Greenspan (the former head of the US Federal Treasury) was, according to Manne, indirectly culpable in the calamity that was Global Financial Meltdown during the late 1990s.
The Life of I is particularly interesting because it reveals the consequential scale of the narcissistic personality. And a story that makes one cringe lest one identify with traits that define these extreme narcissists. “I don't care what you think unless it is about me.” - Kurt Cobain. In the 1980s I spent a lot of time in a city named Fremantle in Western Australia. I later lived there before transmogrifying to Bali. “Freo” was an egalitarian place with a large artistic community – somewhat laissez faire in a “pinko” sort of way. Its western border was the fine white beach sands and azure brilliance of the Indian Ocean. But in the ‘80s we were suddenly awash in a sea of orange. No, not an assemblage of Dutch football fans that had taken a wrong turn somewhere, but an influx of those who followed the “teachings” of kooky Indian carpet-bagger, Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh (AKA “Osho” and a raft of other names that no one really cares about any more). The “Orange People” . . . who wore orange uniforms in similar fashion to the followers of the Hare Krishna movement but without the altruism that motivates those who advocate “Krishna Consciousness” – like feeding those who cannot afford to feed themselves. “Baggers” – as some of us came to refer to him – had created a giant narcissistic ego bubble that spread throughout the world. A selfproclaimed “Guru” (as opposed to guru, which in Bahasa Indonesia, merely means “teacher”) he basically proclaimed a philosophy of, “go forth and fuck your brains out” that lured and appealed to a large and insecure Westerner-searching-for-Eastern-philosophy population. He spouted the predictable mantras that circumnavigate the concept of “love” . . . and reneged on the responsibilities that a person in a position of power should always recognise and not remit. He demonstrated classic (well researched) traits of the narcissist – a complete lack of real empathy (as opposed to the unreal kind acted out in order to bring everything back to the self) and an emotional/ mental blank when it comes to consequence. I shared a house in Fremantle for a short time with one of his lapsed acolytes and listened while he spoke in hushed tones about living in the Osho “community” in Oregon, USA – where Baggers maintained a fleet of Rolls Royces amongst other worldly, materialist, goods and pleasures that his followers bought for him – about people who were “disappeared” from the community when they expressed concerns about the narcissistic megalomania of the man. He, thankfully, died in 1990 in his home state of Puna – after having his immigration status revoked by the US and being banned from entry to 21 other countries (I’m sure that his remaining disciples could come up with some interesting conspiracy theories) – and it would be all too
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easy to write him off as just another wanker . . . but that would be far from accurate. He prevailed on others to perform that task for him. It must be said, however, that, post-mortem, his popularity is, again, increasing . . . life is quirky at times. His influence over thousands upon thousands of people who were/are willing to believe in his corrupted form of Utopia not only rivaled that of those like the “Reverend” Jim Jones and Charles Manson, but bettered it in spades. I look askance at the rise of Bali in the past 15 or so years as a bastion of pseudo spiritual false prophets and Fagins (“. . . you’ve got to pick a pocket or two . . .”) of fakery who perpetuate the narcissistic legacy of Baggers and his ilk – with their questionable credentials and their followers’ propensity for wearing uniforms that proclaim: “I AM . . .” “I am in love with you, I responded. He laughed the most beguiling and gentle laugh. 'Of course you are,' he replied. 'I understand perfectly because I'm in love with myself. The fact that I'm not transfixed in front of the nearest mirror takes a great deal of self-control.' It was my turn to laugh . . .” - Anne Rice, Blackwood Farm. While some of the world’s languages might not contain a word that translates directly as “love”, extensive anthropological studies have revealed that there is not a single culture in which the actual emotion of love is absent. According to social psychologist Zick Rubin, love is characterised by three different things: attachment, caring and intimacy (which doesn’t, necessarily, involve sex). I would add at least two others: respect and trust. When the word, “friend”, was reinterpreted by Facebook founder, Mark Zuckerberg, I was baffled. I don’t use the term at all lightly – in fact it is probably the most precious term in my personal lexicon. My mother is my friend, as is my sister and her family. A friend is someone you don’t have to guard yourself against because there is no propensity for them to exploit the vulnerabilities we all posses. Friendship is founded on love and the bond it creates is a form of liberation in a (post-information-revolution) world that can appear intimidating and alienating. True friendship is altruistic but also comes with a range of responsibilities as referred to in the previous paragraph. I never put the term “just” in front of “friend” or “friends”. There are certainly individuals who are incapable of feeling or expressing love and psychologists from Sigmund Freud onwards have identified in otherwise healthy people a dysfunctional or abusive upbringing as a primary cause for this. In some others neurological impediment can block emotional development. During the trial of Anders Behring Breivik his defence team lobbied to have him psychologically examined and declared insane – he had
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endured an abusive upbringing and had a psychosexual relationship with his mother. Breivik, himself, did not wish this to happen because he was “proud” of what he had done. The assessment, however, went ahead and a team of psychologists found him to have been perfectly rational and lucid at the time of his murderous rampage. They also determined that he had absolutely zero appreciation of the consequences of his actions.
To bind us closer and keep us strong In a special world, where we belong There have been hundreds of thousands, if not millions, of books, poems, songs, films, artworks etcetera that focus on romantic love and it would not be far fetched to say that they have played an integral part in shaping our perceptions of what love should be.
Even this twisted individual can love, however . . . but only himself.
This can be problematic because “real” or “pure” love is about reciprocity, not projection.
There has been a dramatic increase in scientific research into love in recent decades especially regarding the notion of “heartbreak” as reported on the Association for Psychological Sciences website:
Love is not all sweetness and light – there is a dark side to the emotion: obsession.
“Psychologists believe that physical pain has two separate components. There is the sensory component, which gives basic information about the damage, such as its intensity and location. There’s also an affective component, which is a more qualitative interpretation of the injury, such as how distressing it is. A group of researchers, led by Ethan Kross of the University of Michigan, believed that social pain might have a hidden sensory component that hadn’t (previously) been found. They recruited 40 test participants and subjected them to (an) intense social injury: the sight of an ex-lover who’d broken up with them. Kross and colleagues brought test participants into a brain-imaging machine and had them complete two multi-part tasks. One was a social task: Participants viewed pictures of the former romantic partner while thinking about the breakup, then viewed pictures of a good friend. The other was a physical task: Participants felt a very hot stimulation on her/ his forearm, and also felt another that was just warm . . . Activity in areas (of the brain) associated with affective pain increased during the more intense tasks (seeing the “ex” and feeling the strong heat) . . . The results suggested that social and physical pain have more in common than merely causing distress – they share sensory brain regions too. These results give new meaning to the idea that rejection ‘hurts’, the researchers concluded in a 2011 issue of Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.” There is, however, a consensus that the most revealing insights into the emotion have come from the arts, music, literature and poetry. And this is particularly pertinent to romantic love as in A Special World by Sheelagh Lennon: A special world for you and me A special bond one cannot see It wraps us up in its cocoon And holds us fiercely in its womb Its fingers spread like fine spun gold Gently nestling us to the fold Like silken thread it holds us fast Bonds like this are meant to last And though at times a thread may break A new one forms in its wake
On March 30, 1981, John Hinckley Jr. shot and seriously wounded US president Ronald Reagan because he was “in love” with actor Jodie Foster and thought assassinating the president would impress her and gain her attention. Obsessive love operates hand in glove with love’s cousin, jealousy – one of the most destructive emotions, which occurs in concert with notions of entitlement and possession. Then there is something referred to as “unconditional love” and we might, perhaps, gain some insight into the nature of unconditional, as opposed to romantic, love in an unusual place – the aftermath of the tragedy that was the shooting down over the Ukraine of Malaysian Airlines flight MH17. Among the 298 people whose lives were lost were three young children from Perth, Western Australia – Mo (12), Evie (10) and Otis (8) Maslin, and their grandfather, Nick Norris. The Maslin children’s parents had stayed on in Amsterdam where the family had been holidaying, sending the kids home to school in Australia with grandpa Nick. In early August a memorial service was held at Perth’s Scotch College where Mo was a student and Nick a former student, as The West Australian newspaper reported on August 4: “Scotch head of middle school Richard Ledger told the crowd of more than 1,000 packed into the private service their role was to laugh and give parents Anthony “Mas” Maslin and Marite Norris the courage to do what they needed to do for their three beautiful and much-loved children. ‘Today is very much a love story,’ he said.” In an earlier statement made by Ms. Norris and Mr. Maslin they write: “Our pain is intense and relentless. We live in a hell beyond hell . . . No one deserves what we are going through. Not even the people who shot our whole family out of the sky. No hate in the world is as strong as the love we have for our children . . . No hate in the world is as strong as the love we have for Grandad Nick. No hate in the world is as strong as the love we have for each other. This is a revelation that gives us some comfort . . . So far, every moment since we arrived home we’ve been surrounded by family and friends. We desperately pray that this continues, because this expression of love is what is keeping us alive . . . I am in awe of this courageous couple and their raw and precious poetry. Unquestionably it beats the me in all of us.
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Photography: Derek Wood Styling: Ozlem Esen Models: Lauren Brown & Tiah Eckhardt Shot on location at Mick's Place, Venice Beach, L.A.
yak fashion
Bra by Victoria's Secret Underwear by Blue Bella
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Vintage white dresses from Gotta Have It, Venice Beach. Hat by Nick Forquet.
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Lace dress by State of Georgia Underwear by Kiki Montparnasse
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This page and following polaroids:
black bustier by Kiki Montparnasse.
Blue bra top by Lonely. White bra by
Victoria's Secret. Vintage white dress from Gotta Have It, Venice Beach
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Blue bra top by Lonely
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Hat by Nick Forquet
Pants: stylist's own
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Top vintage Dolce and Gabanna.
White dress by State of Georgia
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Black outfits: Jacket and skirt
Comme Des Garรงons. Bikini top by Fella available at a.Muse Bali. Lace top Chanel. Pants Isabel Marant For Chanel. Bag Chanel Shoes. Right: top by Lonely.
Pants Calvin Klein.
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Avast ye lubbers – there is a fine fleet awaiting you in and around Flores where some of
the world’s most exquisite marine environments can be explored and appreciated . . . writes Stephanie Mee.
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FEATURE
BASILEA THREE years ago, master yachtsman Raymond La Fontaine was sailing the Indian Ocean on his home for nearly 10 years, the Australian sailing yacht SV Basilea, when he hit a doozy of a storm. For weeks there were gales and relentless rain, but his 30 years of sailing experience fared him well . . . until one fateful night the Basilea crashed and water began to flood the hull. It took eight days of struggling to stay afloat before the Basilea finally landed in Jakarta, and months to have the boat properly repaired. It was then that Raymond knew that he had to follow his dream of building an international standard marina in Indonesia. In less than a year the Basilea was restored to her former glory, Raymond had begun work on the Marina Del Ray in a peaceful cove on Lombok’s Gili Gede, and Indonesian Yacht Charter, Gili Gede Fast Boat and Lombok Dive Charters were up and running. Today Raymond and his team organise some of the most scenic and stimulating boat tours in Indonesia aboard the Basilea and other yachts in their fleet. From day and sunset yacht charters to multi-day liveaboard trips around the archipelago, Basilea offers a wealth of experiences at sea for adventurous types. Day trips include cruises and sunset tours from Bali to Nusa Lembongan and the islands that Raymond has named “The Maldives of Indonesia”, more commonly known as Lombok’s southern Gili islands. For those who have more time to spare, liveaboard trips range from three days to 10 days, and include stops in exotic outposts like Sumba, Flores and the Komodo National Park to see deserted white sand beaches, pristine rainforests, traditional villages, indigenous wildlife, and volcanic lakes. Each tour includes an experienced skipper and crew, plus activities like snorkelling and fishing and optional dive equipment. Liveaboard guests are also treated to comfortable accommodation on the yacht, tasty meals including snacks, coffee, tea, and beer, spirits and wine for purchase or included in the package depending on the trip. You can also get in touch with the helpful team at Indonesian Yacht Charters or Lombok Dive Charters to customise your own unique tour. www.indonesianyachtcharters.com SEVEN SEAS IT’S all about adventure on the Seven Seas, a 45-metre luxury liveaboard yacht that plies the waters east of Bali in search of extraordinary destinations across Indonesia. With three decks, eight stately cabins, plenty of lounging and living areas, the latest dive equipment, a fully stocked galley, and a boutique shop, The Seven Seas can handle any kind of excursion at sea you can dream of including dedicated dive cruises, family expeditions, underwater photo and video courses, and weddings on the water. For years Mark Heighes and Jos Pet had been hashing out the details of their dream boat, but they never came across a vessel that quite fit the bill. However, in 2005 they stumbled upon a gorgeous traditional Bugis
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schooner made of solid ironwood, and they knew that this was the boat they had to have. Together with a team of expert shipbuilders, carpenters, and partners and co-owners Tuti Heighes and Lida Pet-Soede, the duo completely refurbished the boat transforming it into a cutting-edge liveaboard vessel that few in the region can rival. The Seven Seas boasts three decks with ample space inside and out for relaxing and socialising. Of the eight state rooms, four are spacious double rooms with king-size beds, and four are twin rooms with large single beds. Two of the cabins are on the upper deck offering panoramic views of the horizon from the windows, and all rooms have luxurious teak furnishings and ensuite bathrooms with hot showers. In addition, there is an air-conditioned living and dining area with windows that open to allow sea breezes to flow in, a sun-dappled wooden deck with loungers, and a shaded dive deck with deck showers and gear storage. Guests can opt for easy one-day or one-night tours around Bali on the Seven Seas, although the company’s real focus is on multi-day cruises around Indonesia’s unique eastern islands. Spend a week or three touring the vibrant coral gardens and deserted beaches of Raja Ampat, see some of the world’s rarest reptiles on Komodo Island, or get off the beaten path in the Southeast Moluccas, also known as the “Forgotten Islands”. Whether you opt for a single night or nearly a month on board, the professional Seven Seas team will make sure you want for nothing. With a cheerful crew of eighteen Indonesian staff including dive masters, a spa therapist and a gourmet chef, plus two Western cruise directors with more than 10 years experience sailing the region, guests will be treated to amazing experiences, gourmet food and fine wines, expert dive instruction, and a wealth of knowledge about the geography, history, culture and curiosities of each destination. www.thesevenseas.net ALEXA BY TALIKA OAZIA PRIVATE CRUISES IF romance is in the cards, it doesn’t get more intimate than Alexa by Talika Oazia. Imagine sipping champagne with your loved one on a daybed on deck as you pass by remote islands, swimming nude in crystal clear waters as tropical fish dart by, picnicking under swaying coconut trees on a deserted island beach, and enjoying candlelit meals on the water and under the southern stars. Then of course, you could also spend leisurely days luxuriating in your opulent cabin for two. Once a traditional Indonesian Phinisi cargo ship, Alexa has been completely remodelled so that classic lines take on a modern all-white air, open-air decks allow for panoramic views, and interior living spaces are spacious and bright. In addition, the decor here is nothing if not decadent with silk rugs, antique sculptures, contemporary artworks, fine linens and crystal glasses. No detail has been overlooked, and the overall experience is five-star grandeur at sea. On the upper deck of Alexa, you have an open-air dining pavilion, a sleeping arrangement for nights under the stars, sunbeds, relaxation areas, and an open-air navigation platform. Head down one level and you
Pulau Luxury Charters.
alexa by oazia.
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FEATURE
seven seas.
plataran.
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will find the living and dining room, TV lounge, an open-air lounge, and the master (and only) guest cabin on the ship with an ensuite bathroom and private balcony. Finally, the lower deck houses a state-of-the-art kitchen, another dining area, a lounge, library and the crew cabins. While onboard Alexa, pampering is part of the package, as you have your own personal chef, a cruise director who can arrange day trips to exotic islands, remote villages and pristine lagoons, a dive instructor and spa therapist. They will attend to your every craving, whether it is a premium bottle of wine or spirits, a seafood BBQ under the stars, soothing spa treatments, or rejuvenating yoga and meditation sessions. www.alexaprivatecruises.com PULAU LUXURY CHARTERS Based out of Serangan Harbour in Bali, Pulau Luxury Charters offers three sleek and stylish boats for a range of activities at sea. Day cruises head off to the crystal clear waters off Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida for snorkelling, swimming and gourmet lunches on beautiful beaches, dive trips include expert instruction for all levels of divers, surf tours take advantage of some of Bali and Lombok’s best breaks while avoiding the crowds, and fishing expeditions set out in search of tuna, mackerel and big game fish. Each boat at Pulau Luxury Charters has been specially outfitted to accommodate guest’s unique wants and needs. The Rhino 1 is a custom built 42-foot dive and surf boat with state of the art scuba gear and boards onboard; the Haruku is a long-range expedition yacht designed to travel anywhere in comfort and safety. Her 72-foot catamaran hull is wave piercing and provides safe, comfortable, and economical cruising for weddings, parties and short or long range island adventures. With room for six guests and a crew of four this beauty has all the comforts of home with all the bells and whistles needed for an entertaining journey. Finally, the 56-foot Burjuman is a stunning fly-bridge motor yacht from Italy that offers luxury day cruises, romantic twilight cruises and customised surfing, diving, sightseeing and liveaboard tours. Flexibility is key at Pulau Luxury Charters, as guests can customise trips to suit their needs. For example, non-divers can take the PADI Discover Scuba Diving course to learn the basics of the sport, while advanced divers can explore fascinating walls, reefs and coral gardens. Surfers can hit up waves year round on either side of the island, and anglers can draw on the crew’s nautical knowledge to seek out the most abundant hauls. Families and groups are also well taken care of, as many of the boats have air-conditioned cabins and lounges, an array of toys including an underwater jet scooter, SUP Boards, kayaks, snorkel and dive gear an inflatable pontoon raft and plenty of space on deck for relaxing and soaking up the sights. If you only have time for one cruise during your time in Bali, the Champagne Sunset Cruise is hard to top. Board the Burjuman in late afternoon and set off for a gentle three-hour cruise around the calm
waters of Sanur and Nusa Dua. Lounge in style on the bow or fly-bridge with a flute of champagne in hand and nibble on gourmet canapés as you watch the sun set slowly behind the peak of Mt. Agung. You can also opt for a decadent four-course Chef’s Dinner on board with dedicated wait staff for charters of up to four guests. www.pulaugroup.com PLATARAN KOMODO PHINISI VESSELS YOU may be more familiar with Plataran as a collection of exotic boutique resorts in some of Indonesia’s top destinations, but this luxury lifestyle company also offers unforgettable tours to world famous dive sites and islands around Flores and Komodo National Park. With a full fleet of traditional Indonesian sailing ships ranging in size, Plataran Komodo Phinisi Vessels offers exciting itineraries at sea for all budgets, time limits and group variations. Based out of Labuan Bajo, Flores, Plataran Komodo Phinisi Vessels has four ships, each of which was built by master shipbuilders on the island of Sulawesi. These beautiful wooden vessels have been lovingly renovated to provide comfortable cruising no matter how long the trip, and onboard features include snorkelling and diving gear, fishing equipment, cabins with complete hotel facilities, and a full complement of professional staff who know the waters like the backs of their hands. Plataran’s flagship vessel is the 25-metre Phinisi Felicia, a Buginese schooner made of rich ironwood and teak, and sporting billowing royal blue sails. With two spacious master cabins with double king beds and four twin cabins, all air-conditioned and with their own ensuite bathrooms, the Felicia can comfortably sleep up to 12 passengers. The boat also boasts a lounge, kitchen, covered deck with a dining table, and plenty of space to soak up the views on the sundecks and bridge. The Plataran Ambasi can also accommodate large groups with three stylish double cabins and one twin cabin, and the Plataran Phinisi Bali has six single beds with open bunks. The smallest boat in the fleet is the Plataran Komodo, yet this vessel still offers room to move around and inviting lounging areas for day trips departing from Labuan Bajo and setting off to dive sites in the national park, tranquil beaches and hiking trails on remote islands. Some of the perks that set Plataran Komodo Phinisi Vessels apart from other dive and yacht charter companies include their competitive pricing for both day trips and liveaboard cruises, their highly trained captains, crew and dive guides who are constantly upgrading their skill sets and refreshing their safety knowledge, and their commitment to the environment. In fact, the company has recently partnered with Project AWARE, a non-profit organisation dedicated to ocean conservation, to protect the underwater world here in Indonesia. www.plataran.com
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brands
Ondy Sweeting quizzes the
force majeure behind Bali’s beloved
Warisan brand about the past present
and future of the company.
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GIANPAOLO Nogara and Lucio Brissolese know a thing or two about icons. The team behind Warisan Living has collaborated with some of the most iconic names in the design business. Philippe Starck? The Delano Hotel in Miami, which is said to have changed South Beach forever. Then there is Italy’s star architect and designer Antonio Citterio with whom the duo collaborated to make magnificent interiors for the Bulgari Hotel, Bali that is a chic centre for the uber-rich jet-set. Four Seasons, Grand Hyatt, Ritz Carlton, and St Regis . . . the list goes on and on. They are part of the possie of exclusive hotels where Warisan furnishing and accessories canbe found. Artists are supported – including the sensational Dutch painter Nico Vrielink – and local talents are nurtured. Warisan is more than a brand; it is a symbol of Bali at its best and shadows its progression from a remote surfing location to a luxurious holiday hotspot. With its foundation in buying and selling original Indonesian antiques and exporting ethnic art, Warisan has evolved, developed, expanded and created a highly recognised marque. A few years ago the two founders thought to change that well-known logo but rejected the notion. “The word is scribed in a beautiful cursive which reflects our dedication to hand crafted and artisanal works. No printed typeface can produce such a logo. It is 25 years old and well known,” Gianpaolo says. It is recognised in more places than the island. A virtual household name in Genoa, Italy, Warisan has established studios and galleries in Los Angeles, Cape Town, Korea and India. While Warisan may be as old as the first expats and appears to be a comfortable and much loved Balinese brand, it is becoming and international ‘indie’ furniture outfit loved by millions. “We have become very well known in South-East Asia since the 2009 crash of the financial markets in the United States. That time caused a rethink for us since our best clients had been in the United States and they where no longer able to commit,” Gianpaolo says. In fact, long-time clients and new projects evaporated as the hotel industry in the USA shrank. Warisan turned its eagle eye for detail to home and the greater Asian market. Now the outfit has been decorating a privately owned mansion in Mumbai, homes of the elite in Jakarta and a whole range of hotels across the region. “Once the local market only looked for price
point. Now Indonesians, Indians and Koreans are focussing on quality and sophistication and we are able to provide that for their private residences and apartments that they develop,” Gianpaolo says. Warisan does more than produce thousands of Warisan bedside tables for five-star hotels at will. They share the love and not just into the homes and hotels of the rich and rarefied. As part of the 25th birthday of the furniture manufacturer and purveyor of gorgeous items the group has deepened its nurturing sole and is seeking Indonesia’s next generation of talent. With Indonesia Design magazine, Warisan has launched the Young Designer Award competition with an objective to recognise, foster and promote emerging designer talent from across the nation’s six universities and design colleges. “We hope to give the winners an opportunity to develop their talents, particularly in wood design,” Gianpaolo says. Warisan has long been spreading its design expertise among upcoming individuals across the world. They have had people from Spain, Holland, Italy and the UK pass through their workshops taking with them new and specialised skills. “We are careful to keep our philosophy of using only sustainable woods at a time when China is mass producing furniture very cheaply. We have no plans to try to compete with this. We will continue to maintain our excellent quality and take on new talent from near and far,” Gianpaolo says. “That is part of the Warisan brand.” For long years the Jalan Raya Kerobokan gallery has sat on top of the “must-do” list of vacationing design junkies as well as a frequently flyer on the best design and shopping blogs. It relentlessly promotes handcrafted Indonesian and Balinese furniture and modern design. Trade shows from Las Vegas to Nashville to Casablanca and Istanbul have had a slice of the high-end outfit. Word has spread by traveller talk, traditional advertising and, soon, digital media will have its piece of Warisan. “We are rethinking our marketing strategy and working on a new website and we will engage in all forms of digital media promoting for our brand through various platforms,” says marketing manager Arnaud Guillemot. “In the next five years we can expect to see the brand gaining a high profile in the European market for exclusive furniture.” “We aim to have a strong presence in high end retail in the UK and secure a strong European position in hotel project work,” Lucio Brissolese says. However, he assures The Yak that the Bali
showroom will remain Warisan’s premier studio. “Everybody that comes to Bali visits us and we do not plan for that to ever change,” he says. The two entrepreneurs, who both arrived in Bali by boat, have a secret project: the Warisan brand is going to sea. “It is about time that Indonesia has its own domestic boat building operation. Being the world’s largest archipelago with 17,000 islands – many of which remain hardly explored – we are perfectly placed to create a bespoke business building boats,” Lucio says. Gianpaolo and Lucio expect to start out making 8-10 metre motorboats then move onto the production of small to mid-sized yachts made of wood with beautiful interiors. These are the types of exquisite vessels owned by five and six-star hotels. Equivalent to the leisure barges of days past. “We are both old sailors so it is a return to our passion. We already have a lovely solid teak boat that we take clients on from Bali to Java just to avoid the ferry ride. Many of them have asked if we would make something similar for them. The market is ready,” Gianpaolo says. It would also put an interesting high quality player into a market sector that is sadly lacking a shipwright with great élan. It would also allow salty sea dogs to avoid paying the enormous luxury tax that is slammed onto any boat bought offshore. It is certainly a return to roots for these two Warisan warriors given that both arrived on the island by sea – Luccio as the skipper of a 50-foot schooner that departed from Antibes. Since the business’s 1989 inception, together they have sailed many seas – marine, professional and personal – for more than 25 years. This may well be the professional swansong for these two long-time troupers that seem to have had so many fingers in pies that include antiques, art, lighting, jewellery, accent accessories and beautiful furniture and even food through its eponymous restaurant. “In five years time I expect to retire at my venerable age. Let the next generation come and take over,” Luccio says. What exactly could this lucky next generation be expected to embrace? An operation that knows how to birth an outstanding brand that by all appearances almost gives more than it takes in a range of realms. www.warisan.com
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oral pleasures
Katie Truman visits homely yet elegant teatro. photo: lucky 8.
IT’S called Teatro Gastroteque . . . so the name of this gastronomic boutique restaurant in downtown Seminyak not only hints at what’s on tonight’s programme, but perhaps what sets Teatro apart from other fine-dining establishments. Cuisine is “sophisticated French modern cooking with Asian flavours and twists,” but I’ve come across this east-meets-west hybrid several times on the island. Here, within this small and stylish premises, expect a think-outside-the-box concept with bold presentations, theatrical flair, surprises and deceptive illusions. And expect to be entertained. The surprises start with Teatro’s executive chef and co-creator, Daniel Edward; he’s not French, but a Jakarta native, fine-tuning his culinary skills at several prestigious five-star hotels in Dubai and winning a handful of world-class chef competitions en route before opening this, his first restaurant. Teatro presents dinner-only, dining fit for gastronomes, with Degustation three, five and seven- course Set Menus, 10-course Chef Degustation Menu and signature, 12-course Discovery Menu, with several core dishes repeated across the board. All menus can all be additionally paired with Old World Wines carefully thought through to match and enhance each dish. “Teatro presents strong balanced menus; each dish bearing its own characteristics and detail,” Daniel says. “Ingredients are special and speak for themselves; we source the best produce available on the market; premium ingredients such as foie gras and beef imported in, but we mainly use locally-sourced finest ingredients, delivering a more authentic flavour.” Visual presentation is almost as important as taste and essential part of the “show” with courses presented as exquisite art forms, that would make a gourmet food photographer salivate. Dishes, impeccably served one-by-one by super slick, yet discreet staff considered as “butlers,” are set on textured, slate-grey ceramic table ware, exclusively commissioned from Kevala. High-end dining this may be, but Teatro, like an increasing number of Bali’s upscale venues is refreshingly “casual,” devoid of starched tablecloths, pretentions and dress code. Guests of varied ages and nationalities come casually dressed in flip-flops and shorts – although like any self-respecting management, the line is probably drawn at Bintang singlets. And pricing (from IDR 675,000) is realistically good value, considering the quality. Teatro is deliberately designed as an unintimidating, intimate dining space, like you’re in a home setting, dining on velveteen armchairs – this concept further expanded by the open show kitchen where chefs and assistants can be seen
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up-close by diners (and facing the street, probably half of Seminyak) meticulously executing courses. The audience warm-up is a series of bite-sized aperitifs, where Edward and kitchen team reveal playful teasers of their culinary creativity and theatrics about to be unleashed. These include a twist, literally, on Indonesian rice-flour crackers, rolled-up here like cigars, and what appears to be a dark chocolate truffle, but is actually, xiao pau (braised beef ). Amuse Bouche Spinach Soup is buttery, delicately flavoured and simply divine, a surprise in itself, I mean, who likes spinach soup? Curtains up, and my five course set menu starts with Foie Gras en terrine, a classic example of contrasting sweet and savoury tastes, with salty, smoked home-cured pork and French foie gras marinated in plum sake and wrapped in a port wine jelly; a French classic – smeared on homemade brioche – gone troppo with dollops of mango and sultry palm sugar gel. On to Caramelized Atlantic Scallop, succulently fresh, as is, Jimbaran Bay prawn, set on a sea of cauliflower puree, spring onion and teriyaki. Once the lid is removed of an orb-shaped ceramic bowl, Yoghurt Lime Sorbet is revealed; a more technical version of the classic French sorbet palette cleanser; this it does, but here the sorbet comes in a frothy, foam-like consistency with bubbles infused with lime and chili – produced by freezing yoghurt into small aerated particles – with a tangy pineapple confit lurking underneath. Fresh Caught Fish sounds simple but reveals a play on contrasting textures: lusciously smooth snapper in creamy coconut curry sauce with fern leaves contrasting with earthy textured, crunchy breadcrumbs and white elderberry flowers as delicate decoration. Next, Kiwami Beef Tataki, with thin slivers of top-grade beef cooked perfect medium rare, enhanced with eringgi mushrooms, daikon and onion dressing, presents a Japanese dish western influenced, artfully adorned with edible pink petals. What Valrhona Ivory Chocolate lacks in theatrics, it makes-up for in sinfully rich, white chocolate with hints of vanilla, raspberries and hazelnuts. But final act, Mignardises, bites back, with deceptive petit white chocolate truffle, subtly infused with green tea. It’s curtains for dinner and my macchiato is served . . . I look for hidden surprises, but there are none. It’s just good coffee. www.teatrobali.com Download yPod from the App Store and Google Play for details on location, reservations and more about Teatro Gastroteque.
la grande bouffe.
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oral pleasures
oriental chic.
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Katie Truman experiences exceptional Chinese tastes, in more ways than one, at the Mulia.
SIGNATURE Oriental restaurant Table8 is the latest of the culinary venues that has grown organically in The Mulia in Nusa Dua. Perhaps it was felt that a fine-dining Chinese restaurant was badly needed on the island, as few exist, a sentiment supported by this fan of top-notch Chinese cuisine. And after sampling the exceptional food incorporated as part of Mulia’s excellent Café lunch buffet, I was particularly excited about the just-minted Table8, a restaurant dedicated to the same standard of food. Table8 is all about classic Chinese cuisine (no hybrids, fusion, con-fusion), predominately Schezuan and Cantonese and regional favourites such as Beijing, from finest delicacies to home-inspired cooking and popular street foods; authenticity underlined by three Hong Kong chefs, each specialising in different culinary fields. It helps that The Mulia already has a well-established template, ready to transplant over to this island; namely Table8 in sister hotel, The Mulia Jakarta. True, the successful Jakarta version is larger and, as a city hotel, reveals a slightly different ambience than a beach resort, but format similarities are evident in cuisine, interiors and service. Of course this being The Mulia (Table8’s interiors are a classic feast even before you’ve lifted your chopsticks) there are no garish red carpets, fish tanks or lights-so-bright-you-could-land-a-plane here. As elsewhere in The Mulia, the focus is on high-end residential style and the owner’s personally sourced Oriental-themed art works, antiques and décor. Table8 is sumptuously elegant yet tastefully understated in gold and beige tones – The Mulia’s trademark customised décor includes a series of hand-crafted blue and white ceramic minipagodas as table decorations and black rattan rocking chairs hand-painted with Chinese portraits. Wait staff, armed with impeccable service skills and well-informed about the dishes they are serving, come dressed in traditional Chinese mandarin-collared black attire. A more traditional dining style is revealed at the rear of the expansive dining area, highlighted with an impossibly elegant private dining room inspired by China’s Dowager Empress, Ci Xi, and decorated with her artworks. All dining guests are first welcomed with an extraordinary tea ceremony – a guy dressed in traditional black silks, armed with some nifty ancient Kung Fu moves and ceremonially pouring hot water from what resembles a massive long watering can into a long glass filled with a ball of flower tea, Xuang Xi. Excellent for digestion, the chrysanthemum, jasmine and green tea ball blossom opens like a flower. The Tea Master (who took a year to learn this skill) returns intermittently
to top up the hot water. The voluminous à la carte menu available throughout the day (covering both lunch and dinner) looks and reads like a book offering a multitude of standard Chinese, including Barbecue, Birds’ Nest and Shark Fin, Live Seafood, Abalone, Rice and Noodles, and much more. There are also excellent value lunch and dinner buffets, the latter of which are served daily from several live kitchen stations and counters manned by cooks and chefs. It’s Chinese overload with daily changing hot plates, with stir-fried dishes such as squid, beef or pork; alternatively get chef to tailor-make your own stir fry at the Wok Station with displayed fresh vegetables and meats and six different sauces (you can also make your own à la minute soup). Dim Sum Station offers favourites such as pork bun and siew mai. The Claypot Station – with gorgeous custom-made hand-painted pots – feature slow-cooked dishes such as signature black pepper prawns and vermicelli noodles. Glistening duck, chicken and pork carcasses hanging in the glass cabinet was my biggest lure, taking away plates of obscenely succulent Peking Barbecue Duck and glazed pork sliced delicately thin, accentuated with plum and Hoisin sauces. Besides standard Chinese puddings, ice-creams and sorbets and fruit, desserts feature some more unusual numbers, such as refreshingly chilled sunflower jelly. If you’re onto the à la carte, signatures to whet appetite include Australian Five Head Whole Abalone braised with wild mushrooms, pan-seared tiger prawns glazed with house-made soy sauce and wok seared beef tenderloin cubes with black pepper sauce. Divine Peking Duck – rolling your own, optional – reminded me of my first foray in Beijing, circa 1990. Can’t make up your mind or with a group? Go for one of eight set menus. And don’t miss the 22-item dim sum menu, including delicacies such as steamed chicken feet; so good, Table8 opens Sunday morning from 8am to 11am just for dim sum. As a fine-dining Chinese restaurant, Table8’s Tea Corner boasts imported premium leaf varieties from China. As well as Xuang Xi, diners are also served complimentary plum tea at the end, however I also recommend the exquisitely fragrant Jasmine Pear Dragon White Tea as a fitting finale to your Chinese feast. www.themulia.com Download yPod from the App Store and Google Play for details on location, reservations and more about The Mulia.
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oral pleasures
east of eden ondy sweeting Meets selma, top chef at jenja's middle eastern offering. photo: lucky 8.
CHEF Selma Abu Alia has a backstory that ranges across the Middle East to claim international culinary stardom. As the champion of Top Chef Middle East in 2012, Selma trumped some of the most accomplished cooks in the region. Just ponder the limitless culinary ambition possessed by Dubai where they offer up the world’s tallest chocolate tower, desserts dusted with 24-carat gold and an astonishing exploding kulfi. Is this scene for Selma? The answer is a straight “No”. As part of her prize for taking out the coveted Top Chef Middle East title, Selma was offered the plum prize of a job in the kitchens of the Atlantis, The Palm Hotel and Resort in Dubai. This is no ordinary destination. Two of the resort’s 20 restaurants are world-renowned – including the Japanese diner Nobu, as well as celebrity chef Giorgio Locatelli’s Ronda Locatelli. But large-scale operations – The Atlantis has more than 5,000 kitchen staff – are not Selma’s idea of a good time. Instead, she opted for Jenja – the new restaurant that is part of the hip new hotel on Nakula in Seminyak – TS Suites. “I want to serve beautiful comfort food and actually see people enjoying it rather than being behind the scenes,” she says. She aims to use local produce, which is a challenge given that a large whack of Jenja’s menu is given over the delicacies from the Middle East. “I work on each dish to make the flavours my ideal of what that dish should be,” she says. Wherever Selma is sourcing her spices, it is reflected beautifully in the food with delicately spiced slow cooked lamb leg and a mouthwatering mousaka that whispers of the winds of the desserts from which they originated. This menu is brimming with lush down-home comfort that has been sophisticated up into the realms of culinary delight. “This really is rustic Bedouin-style cooking that uses all of the knowledge I have from my mother and the techniques that I learnt at culinary school,” says Selma – who is Palestinian by way of Jordan, Saudia Arabia and Bahrain. Chef Selma washed up in Bali as a result of her friend, one-time Yak Man of the Year, musician and creative super brain Tah Riq’s amusing prank. “Tah Riq is also Jordanian and we know each other. He posted on
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Facebook that I was coming to Bali and looking for opportunities after Top Chef. I wasn’t. He did it to spur me along, almost as a practical joke,” she says. But the joke prompted a plague of replies falling onto the head of the Parkour king regarding his gifted friend. “I had to think about what I was doing so I took a spot as guest chef at the Chapung SeBali Resort in Ubud. During this time I was in Seminyak during a weekend and I happened to meet the owners of TS Suites and we started talking,” says 27-year-old Selma. That talk resulted in recruiting the star as executive chef in the new restaurant and nightclub tipped for the property. A bit of a black sheep, the young Selma studied her way to a bachelor’s degree with distinction in English and Spanish at the University of Jordan. But then she realised that is was food that energised her passion and snagged a scholarship to the Royal Academy of Culinary Arts/Les Roche in Amman. Unafraid of a challenge, immediately after graduation Selma was working in kitchens as an intern and the Top Chef producers approached her having been tipped off about her emerging talent. She had been outed. “I went to Lebanon to do a practical session with Top Chef and I was hooked instantly. Being in a kitchen surrounded by cameras with the clock ticking was perfect for me. It was the challenge I was looking for.” There she had to learn to be an actress as well as a culinary genius. “We would repeat takes so many times, which was incredibly hard when you are cooking. Though they only did one take each of winning and loosing – both fake,” she says. She won and took home the prize money. Her one fear was that she was behind the eight ball because she was fresh out of culinary school. “It turned out that those skills that I had spent two years learning helped me to win. I just hadn’t picked up bad habits or become rusty. I entered with the belief that I would win.” This heartfelt self-belief remains with Selma as she sizzles her way around one of the newest rocking kitchens in town. www.jenjabali.com Download yPod from the App Store and Google Play for details on location, reservations and more about Jenja.
bedouin abundance.
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oral pleasures
comfort @ cucina.
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The Como group's uma resort in sanggingan, ubud, has long been renowned for its quality and service – and now comes a welcome addition, uma cucina restaurant . . . writes stephanie mee. In the past few years, Ubud has seen a shift in the culinary scene from small local warungs and cafés to sleek eateries serving up sophisticated global cuisine. Uma Cucina is just such a space, an Italian-inspired restaurant offering simple, rustic cuisine that makes use of authentic Italian flavours as well as fresh seasonal ingredients. Brought to us by the renowned Como brand at their adventure retreat, Uma Ubud, this elegant dining venue offers five-star food and drink in a casual and convivial setting. Set in a large wooden structure overlooking Jalan Raya Sanggingan and the manicured gardens of Uma Ubud, the restaurant has a laid-back feel to it with a large wooden communal table in the centre of the space that invites family-style dining, and marble topped tables on the terrace. Diners can meander up the stone stairs from the street or park vehicles in the parking area underneath the restaurant and climb the winding wooden stairs in the back. All sides are open to allow fresh breezes to blow in, and soft lighting creates a warm ambiance. My dining companion and I stopped by on a Wednesday evening and the dinner service was already heating up with families digging into gourmet pizzas, couples enjoying glasses of wine, and a group of restaurateurs sussing out the competition. We settled in at one of the terrace tables, and were immediately set up with cold, delicately scented towels, fresh baked sourdough bread with exquisite olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and menu clipboards with attached reading lamps. The cocktail list was too tempting to pass up, so we went straight for a couple of Maple Moonshines, an intriguing blend of fresh basil and apple combined with maple syrup, lemon juice and Maker’s Mark bourbon. Shaken and served tall over ice with a ruby Port float, a lemon rind curl and a sprig of mint, the drinks were cool and refreshing and surprisingly light, although you definitely feel a glow after the last sip is downed. As we perused the menu, Executive Chef Nicolas Lazzaroni stopped by to have a chat. At just 26 years old, you might think Nico is a newbie to the culinary scene, but nothing could be further from the truth. He has worked in some of Australia’s finest dining establishments including Neil Perry’s Rockpool in Sydney, and he was the creative mastermind behind the fine dining menu at Bridges Bali. After a four-year stint at Bridges, Nicolas joined the team at Uma Cucina and worked closely with Como’s Executive Chef Amanda Gale to create the menu, which is a mix of unpretentious Italian home-style dishes and easygoing shared plates. The idea here is to focus on fresh ingredients, simple cooking methods like charcoal grills and a brick-fired oven, and dishes that simply burst with flavour. “We try to source as many ingredients as we can from Bali, especially fruits, vegetables and free-range chicken and seafood,” Nicolas says.
“However, there are just some products that we need to import to maintain the integrity of the dishes. For example, beef in Bali and Southeast Asia just doesn’t have the same flavour as beef from Australia. It’s all about the climate and land, so we import our beef. We also get things like truffles and olive oil from abroad.” That being said, Nicolas is always on the hunt for local farmers and artisans producing sustainable goods like organic meats and produce, raw cacao and honey to name a few. “When we can go local, we will,” he says. Our first dish to come out was the Kingfish Crudo, a healthy portion of paperthin slices of kingfish lightly drizzled with basil oil and lemon and garnished with olives, capers, arugula and fennel. The flavours were subtle, the fish was incredibly fresh, and the capers and olives added a nice texture to the dish. Next up was the Carnarolli Rice, a heady blend of creamy rice, meaty porcini mushrooms, thyme, Parmesan cheese and truffle oil with a smattering of hazelnuts thrown in for good measure. This was followed by the Goats Cheese Tortellini, little pockets of heaven filled with smooth and tangy goats cheese and herbs and garnished with almond slivers, dried orange zest, and a perfectly placed piece of sage on each. They had us at the tortellini, which were by far some of the best either of us had tasted in a long time, but there was more to come and we were happy to keep grazing. The Slow Roast Lamb Shoulder arrived resting on a blanket of ragu made up of braised pepper, eggplant, tomato and capers. The meat was so tender that a singular fork sufficed to peel it off the bone, and the garlic aioli was a nice accompaniment to both the lamb and the plump Roast Baby Potatoes with sweet garlic and rosemary. It all went down nicely with a glass of earthy Italian red. For Nicolas’ grand finale, he presented us with a beautiful Semifreddo consisting of white chocolate, ginger, coffee poached pears and walnuts and some homemade caramel gelato made fresh that day. And of course, what better way to end a great Italian meal than with an aromatic espresso? Simply put, our five-course meal was impeccable, and even prompted my dining companion (a long time lover of fine food and drink) to call it “one of the best meals I’ve ever had”. Everything was superb from the warm and attentive service to the stylish yet homey space, the beautiful balance of textures, flavours and portion sizes, and the more than ample drinks and wine list. You can be sure we will return to Uma Cucina . . . in fact, we are already planning our next Italian fix. dinning.uma.ubud@comohotels.com Download yPod from the App Store and Google Play for details on location, reservations and more about Uma Cucina.
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oral pleasures
red letter days Ondy Sweeting sets the night on fire with uber-cool cocktails and fab fare at merah putih. photos: lucky 8.
MAGICAL mixologist Agung Ari has established Merah Putih restaurant’s lofty position on the chic Bali bar scene. The operation has made a joyful addition of "Liquid Desserts" menu, which is paring a minicocktail to a tiny treat from the kitchen. This is a dream come true for serious gourmets who love nothing more than to restaurant-hop for entrée, main and dessert – thus squeezing visits to as many outstanding eateries during their vacation as possible. It is also fantastic for locals and expats who like a change of scene between dinner and dessert. But best of all it is nirvana for those with a sweet tooth and a desire to luxuriate in stylish surrounds with the urban elite. To begin with Merah Putih is a style statement in its own right and worth a trip to view the interior, which is at its stunning best in the evening. Then claim a comfy couch or a seat at the bar and observe the view or passing parade of diners arriving. It’s fun to watch the look of the first-timers’ faces as they absorb the impressive design. For those searching for a sweet fix go immediately to Liquid Desserts menu where such dreamy cocktails as Stormy Waters – a mix of high-end rum, nutmeg, lime and a sensationally zingy homemade ginger beer is coupled with nutmeg brownies, ginger cream and chocolate egg shell. Yes, this is good and the cocktail glasses are a generous size and not a shooter, and the dessert portions are particularly impressive for something described as ‘tiny treats’. If you are after something to warm your blood, order the Jack Daniels-based Cinnamon Manhattan, which is married to a spiced chocolate mousse. The Lychee and Hibiscus cocktail that is a melange of premium vodka, lychee, hibiscus and lime set with an amazing taste explosion of bombe Alaska with melting hibiscus jus inside and a brown sugar crumble was sublime. Mind-bogglingly good, but do not linger over it for too long since the heat of the night sets it to melt. This dish was served on a slice of
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petrified wood with such a high glossy patina that it captures attention and calls for some back-story. The bar menu is safe and small offering 10 different dishes to graze on. The Daging Kacang was a melting soy glazed angus beef cheek with a fine peanut sambal while the Udang Bumbu Bali was an abundant offering of tiger prawns with garlic, chilli, jicama and cress finished to perfection with a crispy crunch. A vegetarian choice included the superb
Tahu Isi Terong – which is stuffed tofu fritter and utterly divine and exceptionally filling, and a personal favourite. As a pass-through for a fabulous refuelling, it is very easy to stay for hours and linger over the fantastic flavours that are produced from the Merah Putih kitchen. The secret ingredient in all of Merah Putih’s
dishes and cocktails is that they contain a little bit of Indonesia. As a rule there must be at least one little piece of local produce in every dish or cocktail. The bar manager, Agung Ari, works closely with the chefs so tastes are tested and pallets perfected. “I created four new cocktails in a few days and gave them to chef who then developed the desserts to pair with the drinks,” Agung says. The result is already a hit with diners rather than barflies. This will not last as word spreads along Petitenget through to Oberoi and across the island. Undoubtedly copycats will follow. Agung Ari’s knack for making cool and new cocktails, like his super-chill mint and cucumber martini, comes from a complete love for his work. “I cannot imagine doing anything else. I love working with the flavours and exploring new ideas. Some do not work and others are a great surprise,” says Agung, who cut his cocktail teeth and kicked off his career at Ku De Ta. Serving up some of the island’s most inspiring cocktails, it is easy to see how this local guy found himself winning international competitions and studying the science of the cocktail in London’s ultra-hip The Nightjar on Oxford Street. Agung can candy fruit skins and understands how people with different pallets respond to flavours. He even makes his own flavoured sodas from ginger, elderflower, herbs and fruit. Merah Putih, which is widely supported by Indonesian gastronomes, has what is possibly the best stocked bar for after-dinner drinks. Including a dazzling array of whiskies. Asians really do enjoy an after-dinner drink so the restaurant has set out to really offer something special with a wide choice of the darker spirits and some fine spiced rums for a post prandial sip. www.merahputihbali.com Download yPod from the App Store and Google Play for details on location, reservations and more about Merah Putih.
tantalising tastes.
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oral pleasures rack 'em up.
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FLAME IN THE FOREST Katie Truman samples some hot food and high times at Barbacoa. photo: lucky 8.
IT’S hard not to notice that a wave of highly talented international chefs is invading Bali, not only bringing sensational cuisine and fresh ideas into kitchens, but also helping elevate Bali as a prolific Asian foodie destination. And the epicentre of this gastronomic evolution appears to be Petitenget, where, like some magnetic force taken root, world-class restaurants increasingly pop up. One such “chef in our ‘hood” is Australian Adam Dundas-Taylor, one of the opening chefs for Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen, he was involved in Elton John’s wedding, and was a chef at London’s Michelin-starred celebrity haunt Nobu – voted seventh in the World’s Top Fifty Restaurants. Adam and partner, Sean Prenter, opened Barbacoa on Jalan Petitenget in late 2013 and judging by the fast-filling expansive dining floor and glowing restaurant critiques, it has firmly established itself amongst illustrious neighbours. Barbacoa (“barbecue”) is about Latin American fusion with a sharing concept, inspired by dishes of Argentina, Peru, Mexico and Spain and unashamedly “dedicated to BBQ, wood fire, charcoal and loads of smoke”. Red hot open-fire grills and ovens, including an Argentinean-style Asado, stand beside the open kitchen and main entrance (which is shaped like a giant vintage tequila bottle). Signature Asado dishes include meats such as Australian lamb – slowly cooked over a combo of woods for eight hours, then delicately cut from the bone to produce a marvelously succulent meal. Carnivore heaven, but less testerone-fuelled offerings include sublime Snapper Ceviche. “Our aim isn’t to authenticate Latin American cuisine, but more to respect its origins and modernise them to our taste buds. We don’t want to pigeon-hole ourselves as being 100 per cent authentic, especially as ingredients can be hard to find at times,” Adam says. Just how did an Aussie boy get involved in this barbecue lark, which isn’t exactly Bali mainstream? “Working at Nobu opened my eyes to amazing new flavours and textures,” he says. “Living in London, I regularly visited a great little Argentinean restaurant, and slowly my love of this food grew. Moving to Spain, I was taken aback by the unique food and culture and over the ensuing years, slowly started implementing BBQ into my catering business menus. This, combined with meeting Sean, who has a successful chain of modern
Mexican restaurants, resulted in Barbacoa.” Executive chef/director Adam is hands-on in every sense, from mingling with guests and doing stints in the kitchen to co-designing Barbacoa’s striking built-from-scratch building, incorporating interiors of sustainable woods, bare brick walls and customised leather banquettes. Petitenget’s main drag of prominent establishments is now evolving as a lunch destination and, after some deliberation, dinner-only Barbacoa has also jumped on the band wagon, coinciding with Adam returning from a Mexico trip and bringing new inspiration for recipe adjustments and cool new lunch dishes. The recently launched, work-in-progress lunch menu reveals a lighter, casual angle with focus on healthy, tasty, contemporary-style salads, Barbacoa’s celebrated tapas, plus some grilled items. Popular standouts include simple yet yum, Jamon Serrano with Catalan tomato bread and succulent Grilled Scallops with almonds, chipotle and vanilla mole. Perfect for leisurely grazing with a chilled rosé, white wine, or margarita, sitting out on the garden terrace bordering rice fields, or within, fanned by natural breezes. Plans are also afoot for a bespoke, two-metre-plus charcoal grill, with more emphasis on barbecued meats and smoked dishes, and as Adam says, “larger items such as whole barbecue fish, or Portuguese chicken to share, focusing on maximising flavours and barbecue textures”. The mezzanine area with verandah overlooking rice fields has been converted as a self-contained room for private dining and groups – from sitdown dinners to cocktail parties – serviced by its own small bar and kitchen with set menus. Celebrated Australian designer Alex Zabotto-Bentley is finishing-up the interior design, but guests can personalise events from decorations to DJs. “With all these new developments, we're focused on getting Barbacoa to full-speed . . . then we’ll see, without putting too much pressure on ourselves,” Adam says. www.barbacoabali.com
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oral pleasures
olÉ.
LACALACA love tony stanton goes south of the border to enjoy bali's latest offerings. photos: lucky 8.
LACA Laca is anything but a traditional Mexican restaurant. It has style all its own. Seating capacity is 70. Post-modern décor provides indoor an outdoor diners with a warm, friendly, and cozily rustic feel. Salsas are made daily, fish is market fresh, and if you’re lucky you’ll see le patron Will propping up the bar with his laptop pretending to be busy. There aren’t so many restaurants in the world which are instantly likeable, or maybe it’s just because we have memories of great nights here slamming tequila and chuggin’ beer – but Laca Laca is the kind of place where you can walk in whatever time of day or night (it’s open seven days a week from 11am to midnight), order a taco and a Bintang and just feel good while you soak it up. The décor is Mexican meets Hipster, it’s colorful and fun, with some great stuff on the walls. Staff are friendly, the food is great and there’s usually a crowd in. Laca Laca is also renowned for its modern approach to traditional dishes. The bar, of course, serves tequila-based cocktails with a twist, including the house specialty, Laca Laca Margarita. Every Wednesday and Saturday margarita mixed
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drinks are only Rp.50K from 10pm onwards. Menu favorites include:Chilaquiles – mixed chilies – poblano, guajillo, pasilla, chicken stock, lime, onions, shredded chicken, and corn chips, tossed through sauce and topped with avocado, spring onions and sour cream coriander; Cornitas – very slow braised pork shoulder (the sweetest part), onions, bay leaves, carrots, orange, pineapple salsa, red onions, and lime coriander; Quesedilla – two flour tortillas, slow-braised beef brisket, tomato salsa, onion, lime coriander, and jack cheese roasted on both sides, with classic wine. Then there’s the location, of course. Laca Laca is right off the main Oberoi drag, so expect a host of options for carrying on into the night. By taxi if you’re drinking please. Even the Mexicans understand the dangers of booze and cruise. www.lacalacabali.com Download yPod from the App Store and Google Play for details on location, reservations and more about Laca Laca.
Jalan Saridewi 17 Seminyak Bali Ph. +62 361 736 750 www.thestrawhut.com
Kitchen, Bar & Shop
Seminyak - Bali
oral pleasures
Bazaar restaurant in Jalan Batu Belig is casually metropolitan with an elegant funk. salvador bali meets eva, the restaurant's tour de force. photos: lukas vrtilek.
Begin the begin. Eva Neshãt, I’m of Persian descent, 24 years old, turning 25 in September, born in the U.S.A. A bit about your background . . . I was raised in New Zealand and Australia on and off, with an Aussie accent as well. Then to New York at 20 and France for a while, then back to Australia and then Bali . . . and here I am. You’re 24 – that’s impressive, starting off with a bang here in Bali. Were you in the F&B business before you arrived here? No, but I love wining and dining. I met my partner Martin seven months ago, I was in real estate and he asked me to find a location for Bazaar, and during that time he also asked me to come on board. At that time I was involved with a lot of other properties, working towards establishing my own company. But Martin and I became friends and the idea started to grow on me. He asked me again to join the project and that time he got me. We have an amazing chef on board as well in the form of Frazer Wood who has an amazing background . . . he’s South African and comes from Michelin-rated restaurants in London. What is the concept for Bazaar? The concept is raw and fresh, intercontinental and very health-orientated – not vegan but very heath conscious, which is Frazer’s passion. We have our own farms on Lombok, growing our own produce, we have yummy wines, good cheese, and basically all around European cuisine at its finest. What brought you to Bali? When I went back to Australia I was thinking about working in the real estate market, but the market wasn’t so strong. So to Bali to do the whole spiritual thing – I really didn’t know what to do . . . I saw the potential, the development and growth, tourism and all the things one can do here. The community here was and is so great and all the wonderful women, the support groups . . . I fell in love with Bali. Do you have further plans for Bazaar? Definitely, but most of that is hush-hush right now . . . special Sunday brunches and loving champagne is certainly on the cards. Once Bazaar Batu Belig is up and running we plan to open four or five Bazaar venues around the island. We already have a few sites in mind. I’ve only been here eight months and yes there’s a lot going on, but I feel Bali needs a lot more fun and I’m up for that. So, planning on things that are new and fresh, break up the usual and routine . . . change it up a bit. www.bazaarbali.com
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healthy options.
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where can you go for some fab european fare? livingstone i presume . . . writes ondy sweeting. photos: lucky 8.
livingstone
oral pleasures
Restaurants and cafés seem to spring up across southern Bali like so many weeds. While some flower and fall, others blossom. Livingstone Café and Bakery is an interesting collaboration between Anthony Pridubi and pastry chef Herdi Giri. Livingstone is a delight to walk into as a purpose built cafe and bistro with parking and large verandas for al fresco dining. Vaulted ceilings and massive glass walls complete the picture of a stylish outfit that welcomes all with its timber, concrete and steel accents. Plus its cute little birdie logo. Already the space has been recognised by Bali’s many wedding planners and party people and has been hired as a venue. It has hosted product launches, birthday parties, wedding and even a baby shower. The natty area upstairs is tipped to fall into the hands of some Dutch folk looking to open a concept store plus a unique lounge for specialised coffee connoisseurs. One corner of the large Petitenget warehouse-style building is given over to breads that range from hearty cereal loaves to long baguettes and baskets of croissants and pain au chocolat. Livingstone opened just last year by two men who have long held loves for coffee and food, with a philosophy that everything is made from scratch and from the finest ingredients. “I only like to work with high quality products and we make sure that our stores are filled constantly, so we are well prepared to cater for crowds,” Herdi says. A quick quiz reveals that Herdi hoards elite brands of flour from Belgium for the sweet line while the bread is made solely from flour sourced in Germany. The chocolate is Valhrona from France while the butter is Belgian. These amazing morsels find themselves mixed and stirred into a startling array of cake store goodies including macrons, lamingtons, crème brulee cheesecake and a chocolate dome with mango inside. There is a welcome nod to French classics in the cool cabinet. Chef Giri also produces wonderful cakes for special occasions plus a range of seasonal treaties such as stollen and mince pies for Christmas. “With Livingstone I have aim to transfer all of the standards that I learned while working in Europe,” Giri says. Given that the bread is regularly sold out by 11am, clearly those standards are being well received by locals. Livingstone is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and sometimes the duo will put 130
on some cool live jazz for a leisurely Sunday brunch while other days you can kick back to some Indie tunes. Livingstone tries to please all palettes, particularly since its concept is to be family and friends orientated. “We have a lot of space here with great parking so its is good for larger groups. We keep the vibe mellow which has also attracted people to use our lounge as a workspace too,” founder, Anthony says. The menu reflects its three-meals-a-day service with pancakes, fruits and a full English breakfast available early, then to sandwiches, soups and salads for lunch. Dinner has a light touch with roasted salmon on a crunchy asparagus salad or some life sustaining fish and chips. There is also an All Day menu that includes plates of breads and dips, chunky potato wedges, battered quid and bruschetta. Killer milkshakes and healthy juice blends keep the kids quiet while a wonderful range of teas makes this a convenient pit stop for an afternoon energy boost. “I lived in Sydney for ten years and really adopted that café lifestyle that is so prevalent there. I wanted to bring that to Bali,” Anthony says. During one family visit to the island Anthony was introduced to Giri through his uncle who knew of his hunger to establish a café in sassy Seminyak. “After meeting Chef Giri, I went back to Sydney thought about it for a week then we started talking. I came back and we got moving on the plan to open a large-scale café and bakery. It just made sense to put both of our passions into food and coffee and opening a restaurant,” Anthony says. The name Livingstone is not the sort of random idea that a café owner might fall upon. “We thought that Cornerstore would be good originally but someone else had already taken it. I started to think about the explorer David Livingstone and that just seemed to resonate for us. We had our name before we opened the doors,” Anthony says. Dreaming small is not in Anthony’s genes and he is already considering opening Livingstone’s in Surabaya, Singapore and Sydney. “Big dreams don’t start small." www.livingstonebakery.com Download yPod from the App Store and Google Play for details on location, reservations and more about Livingstone.
oral pleasures
tirtha dining There are some special places to go to have a wonderful time with a special someone . . . Katie Truman reckons she’s found one of the best.
IT doesn’t get much more romantic than this; an open-air, intimate restaurant on Uluwatu’s clifftops, with 180-degree Indian Ocean views, niche romance dining amongst stunning water-themed gardens and fine-dining French cuisine, outstanding in concept and presentation. This all in the vastly experienced hands of Tirtha Bridal – the island’s wedding specialists and love experts – whose dedicated wedding chapel premises stand next door. With its centre stage, all-glass pavilion, infinity pool and lawn setting elevated above Uluwatu’s pounding surf, Tirtha Dining could be almost be a wedding venue itself, and sometimes is. If you’re planning a surprise proposal, or celebration of love, Tirtha Dining is heaven-sent. But even the most jaded singleton would find this naturally wild setting, near Uluwatu Temple, spectacular – its unobstructed sea views and ocean breezes a refreshing change from the south’s urban sprawl. And with its multi-functional concept, Tirtha Dining is grand for birthday and wedding anniversary dinners, corporate group dining (how to really impress clients) or special events, where the Tirtha team can conjure up anything from DJ soirees to live kecak performances. Tirtha Dining also rates as one of the island’s premier fine-dining French restaurants – and certainly the only one in the area – helmed by Japanese executive chef Hiroyuki Meno. Trained at esteemed Domaine des Hautes in Tourain, France, and working alongside classically trained, Michelin Star chef, Paul Bocuse at his prestigious Daikanyama and Ginza restaurants, Meno is regarded as one of Japan’s most acclaimed French chefs. His cutting-edge cuisine brings an unexpected gastronomic flair to Tirtha’s kitchens: orchestrating flavours, combining diverse textures and evidently inspired by tropical surrounds, a focus on fresh produce, herbs and spices indigenous to Bali and the archipelago, results in a mouth-watering French-Asian union. Refined dinners are channeled into five-course menu, Saveure, six-course, Decouverte and seven-course Degustation (all remarkably good value, from IDR650,000) but menus can be tailor-made for special occasions. Get here early for a prime spot on ocean-facing sofas in the gardens to watch the sunset, quaff a complimentary Japanese welcome drink, Sochu, or one of many crafted cocktails, like sparkling Lychee Lili. As a bespoke restaurant you need to book ahead . . . especially Valentine’s Day and for the ultimate romantic table pour deux: set apart on its own platform near the cliff edge, with flowers, table decorations and white floaty canopy (extra cost, but extra brownie points) – where impeccable staff are briefed on any special “arrangements”. Not surprisingly, proposals here are almost of conveyor-belt proportions.
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The adjoining lawn terrace offers a couple of al fresco tables under elegant glass chandeliers suspended overhead. Post-dusk the wooing barometre notches up with fire beacons, candle-lights and ceiling of stars; book at full moon for max effect. Two enclosed dining areas, the aforementioned all-white glassencased pavilion and separate restaurant section in light timbered hues, are both Japanese elegance personified. Discreetly available when necessary is F&B director and sommelier, Frenchman Karim Benramdane, who masterminded the select wine list to fully compliment chef’s dishes, yet keeping it affordable so that everyone can indulge at crucial moments. Thankfully devoid of any “sommelier smugness”, the affable Karim not only imparts wisdom concerning his wine selections, excellent although mainly under-the-radar French mid-range labels (with, of course, fine champagnes), but may also elaborate on his time in London working at legendary Canteen and under mega-chefs Gordon Ramsay and Marco Pierro White. Degustation menus are geared to enhance romantic experiences, courses are light and sensuous . . . quality over quantity. Even after six courses, I’m not too full, just suitably impressed; starting with amuse bouche, Light Smoked Bonito with kaffir lime flavoured mix beans fricassee, followed by Poached Lobster with San Daniele Ham, and tangy, tomato watermelon gazpacho, then melt-away Sautéed Foie Gras with celeriac puree and passion fruit sauce – a French and Balinese marriage. The sauté Dill-flavoured Breaded Coral Trout hits the mark, but Roasted Lamb Loin in a thyme-infused sauce, with deep-fried eggplant and tapenade, is the most sublimely tender lamb I’ve tasted on the island. Finally, Sweet Potato Fondant, with milk sorbet and cacao sauce, showcases another intriguing, but delicious Asian twist on a French classic. Seems lovers aren’t the only ones inspired. “Dishes created for Tirtha Dining are distinctly unique to this location,” declares surprisingly modest Meno, “Tirtha Dining’s spectacular setting inspires the creation of exceptional cuisine.” So guys, with all this weaponry, if you choose to propose here, it should be a done deal – if not, well perhaps it’s time to move on. www.tirthadining.com
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fine dining and romance.
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sarah douglas checks out six of the hottest mexican restaurants in the hood.
Mexican is the new black it seems as new restaurants are spreading like melted cheese. But not all Mexican is the same and the discerning diner knows that authentic Mexican food isn’t the tex-mex variety that we have all come to know and love in most cases. The complex flavours that are authentic to bandido territory are based on local specialties: corn, beans and spicy salsas made from homegrown tomatoes and of course, a huge variety of chili. Like the restaurants themselves, not all chili peppers are created equal and whether you like it toned down or fired up, you’ll find it here. Mexican cuisine is regional, cultural and social, and for these reasons UNESCO added it to its list of the world’s “intangible cultural heritage”. Taco Local I’m going to call it here, this is one of my all time go-to favourites. It’s funky, close, with random seating and tiny tables. The food is served in cardboard containers with plastic forks and knives but the atmosphere is great, the margaritas are big, the menu is small but delicious and the prices are way good. It’s the brainchild of a group of friends from Jakarta who have embraced the Mexican ideal. But some places work, others don’t – this one does it for me. The menu is more tex than mex, so you’ll get nachos loaded with cheese, beans and salsa, they do soft shell and crispy shell little bites that go down a treat with Mexican beer or the giant margaritas they serve up endlessly. They’ve got designer tequilas along with the run-of-the-mill brands and they spice it up with herbs and potions that are clearly the work of some late night brainstorming. As I said, works for me, and lots of other folks. Tel. 7979900 www.tacolocal.com Yak Map: N.5 Taco Casa At the other end of the spectrum is Taco Casa, which has all the atmosphere of a fast food joint. Bright lights, production line workers wearing plastic gloves but you know what, the food is good. Make-your-own tacos or burritos is a highlight here. Order soft or crispy shell, fill it up with a list of 20 or so ingredients. It doesn’t look all that great but the marinated pieces of beef are soft and full of flavour, the add-ons are fresh and tasty – someone knows how to work the seasoning here. Again, more tex than mex but for a quick meal that hits the spot. Taco Casa is located in Seminyak and Ubud. Tel. 2123818, 9161919 www.tacocasabali.com Yak Map Q. 3, Bud Map V.9 Motel Mexicola You have to take your sombrero off to these guys . . . they are the business. Packed every night, and often during the day as well, Motel Mexicola has become a destination in itself. At first, punters were a bit confused about the food as many of them had never experienced Mexican like this. The real deal some will say. They have adapted the menu to popular taste to a point but there are some real highlights on this menu that pass as serious food. The bar is pumping, they turn out margaritas at great speed, in fact the service overall is fast, friendly and on the ball. The atmosphere is vibrant. You can enjoy the people watching almost as much as the wild and wonderful décor. There’s colour and movement everywhere you look. It’s hip and funky at the same time. The family-style five-course dinner is a great idea,
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and early in the evening families mingle with the let’s-get-a-few-tequilas-in-beforegoing nuts crowd. The food is good. We swerved a few of the courses but still had some great dips with chips, some tasty jalapeno-loaded quesadillas and memorable slow-cooked ribs in a rich, aromatic house sauce. I would have stayed for the churros but my date was done. I’d say it was the margaritas, very nice drinks, but he didn’t have any. Tel. 736688 www.motelmexicolabali.com Yak Map N.6 TJs Twenty-eight years ago you couldn’t ring a supplier and get burritos and corn chips delivered, you had to make your own. TJ’s in Poppies Lane is an institution and just goes to show, if you do it well, people are going to keep showing up. Years later they are still lining up at the bar for some of the best margaritas in town. From breakfast, through to late night dining, the ramshackle Bali building still has the atmosphere that put it on the map. It really hasn’t changed. That’s what we love about it. The other thing is that this is a very personal project for the owners, who are always there. The food is honest and good, everything from dips to deep, dark moles. The bar is hopping . . . it’s Kuta off-the beaten track and you’ll probably know the words to most of the songs, bonus! Take a step back in time to a place that has Bali written all over it and still delivers on lots of levels. Tel. 751093 www.tjsbali.com Yak Map C.11 Poco Loco Mexican Kitchen and Bar Another old favourite that keeps on bringing us back. Poco Loco opened in 1992 and we weren’t spoiled for choice in those days. Some legendary parties went down in this venue and for the good times we have to keep going back for familiar things and new ones as well. Last year, they hosted original rapper, Grandmaster Flash, proving that they have still got the music in them. Poco Loco has always had a sense of fun, not to mention Madé, the vertically challenged bartender who wanders about offering shots to guests. Don’t even think about asking for a freebie, never happened in all my years of charming him. There’s plenty on the menu to keep everyone happy and one of the original partners is a cracking chef so the food isn’t short of some sterling signature dishes. Mostly Poco Loco, located right in the heart of Legian, is about showing people a good time. Tel. 756079 Yak Map R.14 Lacalita Lacalita is hot off the press, but there’s already a vibe. By the guy who brought you Laca Laca, Lacalita is located in Batu Bolong, the new Canggu hotspot. Conceived as a modern Mexican tapas and cocktail hang by night and a beach-vibe burrito bar by day, this one is going to hit all the notes. Will Lovejoy was first cab off the rank in Seminyak with his Mexican themed Laca Laca, so he gets points for this. His love of all things jalapeno kicks it upstairs, he even does a spiked margarita that is worth writing home about. Mexican is cool it seems, so this one is worth checking out. Open evenings only until further notice. Tel. 2032323 www.lacalacabali Yak Map T.8
travel morning mist on margaret river. photo: andrew e. hall.
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a river runs through
Andrew E. Hall returns to his birthplace for family,
friends, fantastic scenery and fine food and wine.
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DATELINE Perth, Western Australia: Flying into WA from Bali on a clear morning I am struck, once again, by the vastness and barrenness of the continent on which I was born. And somewhere beneath our flight path there is another, older, continent buried within the visible landmass of the northwest – a fact recently discovered after the deployment of some impressive scientific whizbangery. Two continents for the price of one . . . sweet mate. Perth – the world’s most isolated capital city – is only three-and-a-half hours flying time from Denpasar. And airfares can be remarkably inexpensive if you shop around. It’s officially winter (June) – decidedly nippy but the clear, (impossibly) blue sky whispers the promise of a beautiful day which would warm slowly to somewhere in the vicinity of a comfortable temperature for someone who has spent the past 17 years or so in the tropics – if that someone is wearing multiple shirts and a hoody. Perth is an aesthetically pleasing city bisected by the beautiful Swan River where dolphins can be seen to frolic, that attracts an abundance of birdlife which is simply stunning. My mother’s home is located on a bank of the river and from her garden one can watch endless numbers of cyclists zipping past on a bike path that (with very little diversion to roads) runs all the way (mainly along the river) about 30km south to my former home of Fremantle – a beautiful city richly endowed with colonial architecture, cafés, eateries and a dazzling array of micro-breweries. Perth and surrounds is an excellent place to cycle, if for no other reason than it’s pretty flat. Within walking distance of the Perth CBD is the glorious Kings Park that contains a world-class botanical garden. Further west you will find the Indian Ocean and some of the best municipal beaches to be found anywhere – not that I was tempted to go for a swim in winter (we call it “spanner weather” because it tightens the nuts up). There are more hardy souls than I who do though. But Perth is gripped by an existential crisis. On the one hand those who promote the place like to create an image of a happy-go-lucky, laid back city that welcomes all comers – and this is true in most circumstances. On the other, there is an incredible amount of signage telling people what they’re not allowed to do. And if you read the Monday newspaper you could be forgiven for thinking that Australians are incapable of the social consumption of alcohol without giving in to the urge to punch the person closest to them in the pub. Being one of those hideous humans who both drinks alcohol and smokes cigarettes I got into a bit of a pickle in Perth. I was with some friends on the open-air veranda – which was bounded by a footpath (or “sidewalk” if you come from other places) and a street – of a wine bar in an inner-city suburb. Amiably chatting amongst my mates with a glass in one hand and a cig in the other. Enter the bouncer – a Kiwi (they always are) who was as broad as he was tall (they always are). “You can’t smoke here,” says he. “No worries,” says I, “where can I smoke?” “On the other side of the (veranda) post.” . . . about 30 centimetres away, on the footpath. A short stride sideways and I thought everything was hunky dory. Re-enter the bouncer: “You can’t drink here.”
“Where can I drink?” “On the other side of the post . . .” I thought about straddling the imaginary line and doing a sort of Egyptian head wobble thing between my cig and my wine but the bouncer (who resembled a Rubik’s cube, and was of similar height) had an evil glint in his eye. Time to hit the road. My hire-car company of choice is called Bayswater, where you can get a zippy automatic Toyota for about AUS$30 a day. These cars, importantly, are equipped with cruise control. The reason I mention this is that the WA police are fierce, and, backed up by the ever-lurking speed camera, will nail your arse (and wallet) for driving over the speed limit. You can forget about the way we deal with the Rozzers on Bali – hand over some cash and go happily on your way . . . no, no, no friends, do not try that one in WA – they carry guns that actually contain bullets. And don’t even think about drinking alcohol and driving. I use cruise control in the city! Destination: Margaret River via the Kwinana Freeway out of Perth, which turns into the Forest Highway – about a 300km drive. The cityscape gives way, soon enough, to sprawling bucolic farmlands that, in winter green, are home to the cattle that provide us with the famed Harvey beef. In spring (October-ish) the fields erupt in a cacophony of multi-coloured wild flowers. My first pit-stop on the way “down south” is always the Miami Bakehouse in West Pinjarra – which is basically a caravan that serves the most exquisite prandial pleasure, Aussie cuisine icon, the meat pie . . . which our aforementioned bovine friends have generously given up their lives for. Bless them. Onwards, ever onwards, past large roadside signs that inform you that the police are ever vigilant . . . and one peculiar sign which occurs at regular intervals that asks drivers: “ARE YOU AWAKE?” I wonder if the sign-maker understands the irony. There are other signs – among them a yellow warning sign with a caricature of a kangaroo, and “next 15km” written underneath. Which begs the question: do the ‘roos understand the boundaries in which they are supposed to confine themselves . . . and what happens to them if they forget? Outside Busselton – not far to go now – another sign that sends a warning to slow down because road works are taking place . . . from the usual limit of 110kph to 50. Being the law-abiding citizen I am, I reset the cruise control and watch in the rear view as a line of vehicles banks up behind me. Unfortunately the road workers have neglected to erect a sign that tells me I can speed up again at the end of the road works so I cruise on listening to my music, feeling at ease with the world. Several kilometres later, at an overtaking point in the road, a little blue car that resembles a roller-skate draws up beside me and an apoplectic individual – his body fully half way out of the passenger window – gesticulates wildly and yells obscenities . . . so much for observing the rules of the road, and so much for the laconic, laid-back Aussie. The road rage whooshes straight over my head and makes me laugh . . . but I do speed up again. About 40 minutes down the road – out of Busselton – the landscape
winehouse on water. photo: aravina.
magniFicent marron. photo: andrew e. hall.
Jodie's world. photo: aravina.
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changes from rolling farmland and vineyards to a road-ribbon that is snuggled in a wondrous forest of Karri trees: the third-tallest tree in the world. I’ve arrived in Margaret River and head straight to the house of my dear friend, Leanne, which is also nestled in the forest on the outskirts of town . . . sensational, beautiful, and very close to the river that bestows its name on the town. I’ve been on the road for about five hours. Catching up with my friend of 25-plus years in the warm embrace of her slow-combustion wood stove, I reflect on the fact that while I have an excellent life on Bali, there are other places in the world that possess similar magic. And that enduring friendship is a truly amazing and lovely thing. We’ve made a plan – tomorrow we will visit one of the places that Margaret River and its surrounds are (amongst other things) famous for – wineries and fine food outlets. And the one we have chosen is Aravina Estate . . . which owns 50 per cent of Canggu’s Bali Equestrian Centre. Truth be told it was our (The Yak’s, that is) Sophie who hooked us up with Aravina coordinator Sandra Newland and winemaker Jodie Opie. Sophie had a rollicking time at Aravina but I’ll let her tell that story in her own time . . . The estate is located near the town of Cowaramup – some 12km from MR and the route is festooned with some of the most recognisable wine brands of the district and the discerning wine-tasting world. It is also gorgeous and treelined with all manner of hardwoods and other peculiarly Australian shrubbery yearning to bloom when the time is right. Aravina Estate is set on sprawling acreage amongst its vines, large lakes and a hydrangea garden that, according to my mother, grows the biggest hydrangeas anywhere on the planet . . . but you can’t always trust your mother. Entering the “Hamptons-style” building that is the centrepiece of Aravina, Lee and I are greeted by Sandra and Jodie who begin to reminisce about Sophie’s visit a year or so previously. My eyes wander to the long bar where patrons stand tasting the Aravina range of wines. I want to be one of them! I don’t know why but I was somewhat struck when Jodie was introduced as the estate’s head winemaker . . . perhaps because in my experience that position has always been reserved as a male bastion. We were, soon enough, to find out why Jodie had put yet another crack in the so-called glass ceiling . . . and good on her for doing so. But first Sandra and Jodie take us on a tour of the premises – although passing the bar I felt a magnetic tug that threatened to take me off course. Through the gift shop that offers all things wine and some finely crafted souvenirs from the area, we find ourselves standing in a large gallery that contains an impressive sports car collection belonging to Aravina CEO Steve Tobin. If you’re into iconic cars from the 1960s to the present, you will linger in this space for a long while. We did a quick recce through the various vaulted-ceilinged indoor, and outdoor, spaces that can host hundreds for weddings, parties, anything – all with sweeping and spectacular views over the estate. And hence to the bar to taste the results of Jodie’s alchemy. Margaret River is typically known for wine varieties like Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon but Jodie is an adventurous soul and has turned her attention to some European grape varieties such as the Spanish Tempranillo – which is a recent addition to the vineyard – that, when blended with traditional varieties, can produce a remarkably full-bodied wine within a relatively short cellaring period. Lee was the designated driver and, as such, was fairly temperate in her
tasting. I, on the other hand, wanted it all. We started with a 2008 vintage sparkling made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay made in the traditional méthode champenoise – and a fine beginning it was too. We moved on through Semillon Sauvignon Blanc and onto Aravina’s 2011 Chardonnay – a robust and complex wine with a spicy oak finish. I won’t torture our beloved readers with the whole range we tasted because I don’t want to be responsible for you heading to the nearest wine shop and spending your life savings at Bali prices. But Araviana’s red zone (a place close to my heart) was a pleasure to be in – particularly the 2011 Shiraz, the 2010 Cabernet Merlot, and heaven on a stick, 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon. From the tasting area our friendly foursome moved to the dining area for a much-anticipated sampling of the fine fare of executive chef Tony Howell. There is an extensive outdoor balcony area but my thin Bali blood – despite the fact I was rugged up – subtly suggested that indoors was the place to be. This space features a substantial fireplace with a roaring blaze that brought back memories of my childhood. A fabulous collection of original movie posters decorates the walls . . . and one can still take in the magnificent panorama. We embarked on our luncheon with fresh bread accompanied by olives and truffle butter and, to be honest, I could have just kept going with that. Truffles are indigenous to WA’s southwest and are exquisitely and delicately flavoured and the olives are grown locally. We had freshly made feta cheese with olive oil and herbs plucked from Aravina’s extensive garden. Next from Tony’s kitchen came the sashimi of the day; fresh tuna – line-caught from Rottnest Island (off Perth) and served with ginger jelly and Asian omelet on a bed of sushi rice. I was well happy to have moved on from our entrée. Having decided to stay with seafood Tony sent out dish after dish of the world’s freshest fish cooked and seasoned in various and very creative ways. And salads that contained a floral theme, which made Lee very happy indeed. And of course throughout we (well, I, really) sampled Aravina’s magnificent wines. A highlight of the meal was marron with apple and cucumber, caviar, remoulade, lime juice and capers served on brioche and garnished with macadamias. Marron is a freshwater crustacean unique to this part of the world and is deliciously tender and somewhat sweet. As we say here on Bali “enak sekali”. I actually had to hold my hands up in surrender to the amount of amazing food that was being served to us. But Tony insisted we try his dessert of chocolate fudge cake garnished with strawberries, blueberries and orange, and garnished with rose petals. Okay Tony, you win . . . accompanied by a 2011 Botrytis Semillon with its opulent flavours of sweet fruits. I’m pretty sure I had more than one of them. Even the espresso at the end was exceptional, accompanied by some of Tony’s sweet nibbles – the man just wouldn’t stop! I rode back to Lee’s place as a passenger in a state of grace. The sky was emphatically blue, the trees were emphatically tree-like and I was happy as a clam. There are many, many other things to do in and around Margaret River – but don’t miss visiting Aravina Estate while you’re there. www.aravinaestate.com
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venting in a villa
luxury living at regent.
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Tony Stanton takes in the luxury, sophistication and service of the Regent Bali. Photos: Lucky 8.
I have history arriving at Regent. Once, about a thousand years ago in Hong Kong, I was a feature writer for the hotel’s magazine, and from time to time this required me to interview various visiting celebs and VIPs who were staying at the property. On this occasion the subject was Christopher Forbes, whose father Malcolm had started the eponymous publishing empire and magazine that acted as a de facto bible for all things moneyed in America. I was dispatched to interview him on a Saturday, and because I departed directly from my flat rather than the office, it meant I was riding my motorcycle. Off I tooled down the highway, pulling into the impressive forecourt and stopping in front of the bell hop. “I’m sorry sir, but you cannot park that here,” he said. I was late, so this was somewhat annoying as the car park was a distance away from the hotel. “I’m interviewing one of your guests,” I said. “For your hotel magazine.” “May I have the guest’s name sir?” “Christopher,” I said. “Forbes.” It did the trick. An executive duly arrived, took my helmet, and dispatched the bell boy to park the bike, and what’s more, stand over it, while I did my thing. “This way sir,” said my new friend. “So sorry about that.” Scroll forward a couple of decades and I find myself arriving at another Regent, this time in Sanur, Bali. And this time I have taken arriving to new levels of ludicrousness: I am on a mountain bike. This time, however, I meet the GM, Kamal, an affable chap with an encouraging spirit. “So nice to see you arriving in style,” he says easily. “We’ll have someone watch that for you.” Frankly it was nice to be back. Regent has been a name in the hotel business for some 40 years since it was opened by legendary hotelier Robert H. Burns. I say "legendary" because he is the guy who decided we all needed a telephone in the toilet – for when that call came in and you were otherwise indisposed. He also invented the 60-second fill…the time it took for all Regent baths around the world to fill up. And he decided your hotel suite should be divided into three very distinct but interlinked parts:
aforementioned bathroom, a sleeping area and a living room, all occupying the equal amount of space. He is also a helluva likeable guy, a man who still lives the glamour, sophistication and impeccable style that was synonymous with the Regent name, so I was happy to see his ideas had been carried forward to Regent Bali. Walk in to one of the all-suite accommodations at this wonderful little resort and you’ll see those Bob Burns touches: the suite terraces are huge, the baths fill up super quick and all in all it’s a very pleasant (and enormous) space in which to spend your holiday time. And that’s before you’ve tried Chef Chris Patzold’s fabulous food at Nyala Beach Club and Grill. The restaurant serves lunch and dinner and is located overlooking the large horizon-edged pool high up above the beach. The views during the day are exclusive and spectacular – imagine a variety of boats bobbing about in the azure ocean in front of you as you fork lobster and guzzle champagne and you won’t be far from the truth. It’s breezy and sunny up here on the Regent poop deck: time for another glass. Dinner is served in the same place and quickly the attention is turned to focus on the cuisine, and rightly so. Chef Patzold serves up true quality with just enough flair on French and Italian standards to hold your attention. Seared foie gras, pan roast scallop, an incredible fish soup, risotto, ocean trout, lamb shank … it’s truly a menu to be grateful for, and one which sings with the patience and quality of an independent restaurant and thankfully leaves any hint of hotel homogeny behind. I think "epic" covers my dining experience there. Of course Regent Bali has more to offer – its spa, its villas, its access right onto a busy and beautiful beach which remains authentic, its attentive staff . . . even its architecture, which feels Burmese but which fits Bali. But for me Regent will always be about quality, manifest in the original ideas of a hotelier who knew just how these things should be presented: well done. www.regenthotels.com Download yPod from the App Store and Google Play for details on location, reservations and more about Regent Hotels.
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BEAUTY
Sophie D. finds a fountain of youth at Nano.
Anti-aging or pro-juvenation? It’s a choice. Personally, I try to eat healthy, organically and I recycle my trash and compost, so leaning towards projuvenation makes sense, as some of the rest of my life choices aren’t ideal. I smoke, I drink and I do not work out that often. So hearing the philosophy behind Nano Philosophy was a welcome, in fact a line-lifting introduction into what I have dubbed 'pro-juvenation'. Personally I prefer the positive use of 'pro' than the more negative use of the prefix 'anti'. The international team behind Nano Philosophy aims to deliver, amongst other treatments, 100 per cent natural-based organic wellness and anti-aging beauty treatments and body enhancements. I like the organic sound of this; I like natural-based products. And yes while they are mostly “injectables” under their care and gentle hands and the tiny size of the needles, I realize that I am no longer, or need to be, the needle-phobe I once was. Immediately drawn to the Nano cocktail – you can imagine why – I get to balance my body’s needs on the essential vitamin and mineral levels, all in a one-stop, in a delivered-straight to-your-cells kind of way. Increased wellbeing, vitality, energy, improved mood and more importantly memory and concentration, do I notice a difference? Yes, I do. Next on my wish list is to lessen the ravages of my misspent youth! (I’d argue with the description “misspent” – I had a ball!). For this, their Super Lift is the go-to treatment. A mix of active ingredients, which are way too difficult to spell, or read, in this article, but I gather bamboo and a fish extract are the main ingredients. The important factor here is that they work. Depending on each person’s choice as to how many years they really want to shift off their faces, different amounts and gaps between treatments are advised. Personally I am happy to turn back the clock by about six to eight years – and then try and stay there! This fabulous treatment can also be used on arms, abdomen, legs and buttocks – however I’ll leave those areas alone for another few years. 144
Ozone Therapy is next on the must-do list. Ozone detoxifies the blood, helps cleanse the arteries and veins, purifies blood and lymph, normalises hormone and enzyme production. Regular ozone therapy is fabulous for the immune system. Yes, you start feeling as good on the inside as you start looking on the outside. Other treatments offered by the Nano Philosophy team in their immaculate, boutique clinic on Jalan Raya Seminyak include: • Nano needle-less Delivery System using the trio of Thermo-therapy, Ultrasound and Thermage – a fabulous transdermal infusion. • DNA Protection using Astragalus Root extract - this improves digestion and blood circulation; increases flexibility of joints and discs; enhances sex drive, stamina and energy levels; assists in regenerating cell tissue and organs; lightens and stabilizes everything from skin tone, facial pores to weight. • Liposlim Slimming Therapy – which increases metabolism, liver function, increases energy, reduces bad cholesterol – obviously the slimming therapy is to be used in conjunction with a healthy diet and light exercise. • Homeopathy Therapy – healing on all levels. • Cell Therapy – repairs damaged cells; assists the body to self heal, prevent aging and disease. Does Nano offer better treatments than others on the market? As far as I gather others’ modus operandi is to inhibit the connection between muscle and nerve, in a freeze-like fashion. At Nano the products relax and allow for full exchange of information between nerve and muscle resulting in a more natural, youthful look. And does it make a difference? Does it work? Oh yes it does, and thankfully not in an obvious “you’ve had work done” kind of way. Keeping it as natural as possible all the way. Tel: 739372
www.nanophilosophy.com
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fashion freestyle
www.deuscustoms.com
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www.bodyandsoulclothing.com
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www.bytheseatropical.com
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www.bambooblonde.com
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www.biasabali.com
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www.paulropp.com
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www.sksbali.com
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www.69slam.com
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www.universo.co.id PHOTOGRAPHER Enrique Badulescu
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music
Martin East ponders a trio of fabulous ear candy.
Grecco Burrato – Essas Coisas Todas Loving the debut album from Brazilian artist Grecco Buratto. Perfect Sunday afternoon romance and melancholy music. I’m not a speaker of Portuguese. So although I cannot understand this from a lyrical point of view, I simply love it. I love it because it comes from a place of truth and of love. A “Meditation on Love” being the central theme of the album. The music is simple and yet complex. I can hear influences ranging from The Beatles to Radiohead. From bossa nova to folk to rock and even tinges of pop. A complete album . . . a journey. Fourteen tracks recorded with legendary Benny Faccone (15 time Grammy winner) and co-produced by the amazing Marconi De Morais. Grecco is by no means a new kid on the block, this guy (who in 2014 performed an acoustic set at Ku De Ta) has worked and toured with Shakira, Earth Wind and Fire, George Duke, JJ Lin, Sergio Mendes, Airto Moreira and Flora Purin. Fair to say he has guitar chops. My favourite track from the album is Mais Um . . . a moment of simple truth and quiet melancholy. I disappeared into this wondrous composition. Mais Um, meaning “Another”, (basic Portuguese, I know) the music is a simple spacious bossa nova and the tone of Grecco’s delivery was absolutely enchanting. Another standout track O Amor a Voar – starts with a French accordion (Musette) and evolves and ends with a traditional flamenco rhythm and Jaleo vocal. My kind of music. Makes no sense on paper but to your ears . . . magic. Momento – finishes us out with a lovely collage of electronica and acoustic fusion. Nice way to let us off the hook. Thanks for the ride Mr Buratto. This one will be around on the playlist for a while. Ku De Ta Volume six of the Ku De Ta compilation series does not disappoint. In my five years on Bali it has been refreshing to see Ku De Ta develop as a musical brand. Great tracks here Gui Boratto (Elekfantz), Classixx, Lane 8 and Framewerk to name a few. The framewerk track is a standout for me featuring a Pink Floyd sample, I by no means claim to be a Pink Floyd devotee but every time I play this track Electric Religion, a bunch of dodderers always come up and say, “Nice – Pink Floyd”. I just like the track – poignant vocals that embrace the spirit of Bali
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juxtaposed over a deep house groove. The CD moves from a more chilled vibe through some mid-tempo lushness then into some sweet deep house and nu disco crackers. Elekfantz was a big track on Beatport and I love the way that Miguel Migs has reinvented his sound. While every other guy went EDM to jump on the money train (Kaskade and Andy C) Miguel grabbed a shovel and went deeper. The CD is a fair representation of the spectrum of music you can expect to hear at Ku De Ta. Carefully selected by Ku’s musical director BTK and The Ginger “Joe 90”, Jim Breeze, I bet this sounds lush on the sumptuous Funktion One sound system on the pantai there in Seminyak. Serious selections. Accessible and a great representation of the vibe at the original and still-reigning beach king, Ku De Ta. Lisa Donnelly – Home READY for a bit of cowgirl Rock and Soul? Lisa Donnelly and her new album Home will serve you up your fill, if that’s your bag. I am a lover of all music that comes from a place of truth. This album for me delivers a slice of Gypsy Vagabond Country Soul. I knew of Lisa from her work with electronic producers in the US, so decided to investigate the music she wrote when not surrounded by drum machines and computers. This is Lisa’s second album, the first, Naturally, I have featured in my playlist for many of Bali’s restaurants so some of you might already know her voice. She also sang live on The Bachelorette TV show and with The Blind Boys of Alabama. Long Day Highways – delivers me some road trip Americana, twangy guitars and all. Simple effective tune, great vocals. You’re the one I need opens with an enchanting spaciousness and kicks up a gear into the chorus. Like a Drum lets Lisa’s great voice shine through. Simple well made unpretentious music . . . developing and evolving production. Reminds me a little of Blue from her first album which was a particular favourite of mine. In Home, the title track on the album, Lisa’s great voice and simple guitars coalesce a simple message, “the wind keeps blowing me along”. Lyrics one might expect from a girl from Kansas. I believe Lisa will be coming to Bali in September – maybe you can catch her writing a song or two at Old Man's . . . on Echo Beach far away in time.
astroyak
moodofthemoment By Dr Deepak | astro-deepak@usa.net | www.astronlp.com | Skype: drdeepakvidmar
Since 2008 particularly, the world stage has been a conflict between the Forces of Social Control and the Forces of Individual Freedom. It’s an old story between Domination and Independence, between Suppression and Expression, between Submission and Assertiveness. The old authoritarian structures are being challenged now and until 2016. It is a flip of the coin as to who wins. Meanwhile, some of those born 1984 to 1995 may have a profound spiritual experience and awakening during this time…or just get disoriented and crazy for awhile. Two faces on the same coin. Strongest now for those born 1989.
aries
Uranus transit brings wild and chaotic energies of changes, shocks, creativity, opening of the 3rd eye, and sometimes clairvoyance. It’s about something new, something new. You may quit things and people not because something is wrong, but because they are old to you and you have been there and done that. Best way to bring newness into your life is to break the habits you have made on autopilot. Peaking now for those born first week of April.
taurus
Saturn transit opposite Taurus. Happens every 28 years for everybody. Maybe not the juiciest time in your life. It can bring obstacles, delays, struggles to get things done the hard way, maybe loneliness or lack of affection. Twice the effort for half the return. The positive intention of all of this is to achieve your goals and enter a new level of maturity and self-sufficiency. Being practical and conservative is the theme of the day. Strongest for those born 2nd week in May.
and expansion of pocket, tummy, and spirit. It gives you a greater meaning of life based on a feeling personal relevance in the world. Greater insight and tolerance now and broadening of world view. The urge to travel and learn and meet others of wisdom and heart. And in ordinary affairs, just plain lucky. Strongest for those born 2nd week or middle of July.
virgo
Neptune transit opposite Virgo. This is an energy that dissolves. It dissolves any rigidity or rationality in your system and replaces it with multi-dimensional intuition. It is like the difference between standard physics and quantum physics. In everyday life, there can be confusion or illusion, or on the other hand, expansion of intuition or faith. Good time to be in nature and not work so hard. At this time, if it seems too good to be true, don’t do it. Happy Birthday.
libra
Uranus transit opposite Libra and Pluto transit square. Forget about peace and harmony and gemini Neptune transit square Gemini. Now good will toward men. Forget polite smiles and good you no longer are doing two things at once that you manners. This is more about direct confrontation and are famous for. Now you are doing everything at once sudden interrupts in relationships. Some people are nowhere and everywhere in a time zone not measured trying to get their way at your expense and other people by clocks. In other words, sometimes lost and confused are not willing to compromise or play by the rules. The and other times at one with the universe. Good time for juice is in your friendships. They bring a smile to your lips. opening the heart and helping those in need. Just listening The energy is strongest for those born the first half of to someone can lift their spirits and your own. Particularly October. Happy Birthday. good time for meditation and good deeds.
cancer
Pluto transit opposite Cancer. Uranus transit square. Neptune transit trine. Powerful forces all happening at the same time. This will happen just once in your life. Yahoo. Anything can happen at this time. It can be relationship or work breaking in such a way that it is hard for you or it can be an incredible empowerment and spiritual awakening. Or it can be both at the same time. It is a most significant time for you. The energies are particularly strong for those born around the first week of July.
leo
Jupiter transit in Leo. Let the good times roll. Jupiter brings opportunity, good fortune, self-confidence,
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scorpio
Saturn transit in Scorpio and Jupiter transit 10th House of career and recognition. You reap the fruits of your labours. Highest probability of success and achievement at this time. You have to work for it, but that fits your nature. The bread you bake yourself is more tasty than the bread you buy in the store. The paradox is that you receive a lot of recognition at this time, but you are more private than ever and prefer not to be seen. Just your achievement is recognized, but not you. And that suits you just fine.
sagittarius There is a time to go inside and meditate and there is a time to go out into the world and move. This is a time to move, maybe to move your body
to foreign lands or to move your mind to new and bigger horizons. Forget about patience at this time. You never had any anyway. Good fortune in your work, particularly with women. Some issue about your finances in an unexpected way. Maybe linked with your children or taking too many risks in the past. Your good luck in life continues.
capricorn Pluto transit Capricorn and Uranus transit square gives you a very, very intense experience during this time. Capricorn is about Time. It builds and plans for eternity. You expect things to last. And now there are thoughts of death and the stark and clear realization that the end of your life is coming closer and closer. Everything ends. Even the planets are consumed by their exploding stars. Your consciousness is reoriented now to find something about yourself that is eternal and will survive the apocalypse. aquarius Work is a drag and a burden and you are not satisfied doing it for the money anymore. The juice is in your relationships with partner and people. The juice is in experiencing the expansiveness of yourself and the joy of just being you. It is not about materialism and possessions anymore. It is about the connection of human spirit with human spirit. And to do that it is best to connect your creative conscious mind with your genetic unconscious feelings. Good fortune to you. pisces
Well, into every life a little love must fall. But not for you now. For you, a lot of love will rise. Why do people call it falling in love? With you, it is Rising in love. More and more you empathize with every living, breathing thing. The universe to you is alive and you are in communion with All-Is-One. It is a world where you need no eyes to see, no ears to hear, no fingers to touch. You do not need to prove or explain this to anyone, not even yourself. Words do not belong.
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EVENT ORGANISER Plan A www.planabali.com Yak Directory 2 Yak Map N.7 Pro Motion Events Tel: 287250 www.pro-motion-events.com Page 157 HEALTH, SPAS & SALONS Cocoon Medical Spa Tel: 08113882240/8475997 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com Page 145 Yak Map E.7 Glo Day Spa & Salon Tel: 738689/282826 www.glo-day-spa.com Yak Directory 5 Yak Map Y.10 Kaiana Spa Tel: 730562 www.kaianaspa.com Yak Directory 9 Yak Map V.11 Kayu Manis Tel: 705 777 www.kayumanis.com Page 28 Spoiled Tel: 8475141/081999288555 www.spoiledhairdressers.com Yak Directory 6 Yak Map G.1 HOSPITALS/CLINIC Sunset Vet Tel: 754881 www.sunsetvetbali.com Yak Directory 10 Yak Map E.7 HOTELS & VILLAS Alila Manggis Tel: 0363.41011 www.alilahotels.com Page 4-5 Alila Seminyak www.alilahotels.com Page 4-5 Alila Ubud Tel: 975963 www.alilahotels.com Page 4-5 Alila Villas Uluwatu Tel: 8482166 www.alilahotels.com Page 4-5 Alila Villa Soori Tel: 8946388 www.alilahotels.com Page 4-5 Anantara Uluwatu Tel: 8957555
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www.anantara.com Page 37 Amarterra Villas Tel: 776400 www.amarterravilla.com Page 41 Four Seasons Tel: 701010 www.fourseasons.com/ jimbaranbay Page 35 Karma Kandara Tel: 8482202 www.karmaresorts.com Page 29 Mesa Hotel Tel: 8470700 www.mesahotelsandresorts.com Page 2 Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort Tel: 815900 www.panpacific.com Page 39 Yak Map U.1 Regent Hotel Tel: 3011888 www.regenthotels.com/bali Page 129 Sentosa Villas Tel: 730333/737675 www.sentosaseminyak.com Page 32 Yak Map O.6 Sofitel Tel: 8492889 www.sofitel.com Page 43 Tugu Hotel www.tuguhotels.com Page 54 U Paasha Seminyak Tel: 8465977 www.uhotelsresorts.com Page 143 Yak Map Q.8 Villa Kresna Tel: 730317 www.villakresna.com Page 125 Yak Map P.9 Villa Palma Tel: 081236301330/0817347389 www.villapalmacanggu.com Page 138 Yak Map K.2 Villa Vedas Bali www.villavedasbali.com Page 8-9 MEDIA / PRINTING Indonesia Printer Tel: 021 29022055 www.indonesiaprinter.co.id Page 144
MISCELLANEOUS Bali Beach Golf Course Tel: 2877331 www.balibeachgolfcourse.com Page 20 F1 Singapore GP Page BIC Third Millennia Health Tel 737317 www.thirdmillenniahealth.com Yak Directory 4 Yak Map Z.15 PROPERTY Elite Havens Tel: 731074 /738747 www.elitehavens.com Page 1 Yak Map P.8 RESTAURANTS & BARS Alibi/Rooftop Bar Tel: 8465977 www.uhotelsresorts.com Page 143 Yak Map Q.8 Balique Tel: 704945 www.balique-restaurant.com Page 25 Bamboo Bar Tel: 288011 www.aerowisatahotels.com Page 110 CasCades Tel: 972111 www.cascadesbali.com Page 159 CP Lounge Tel: 978954 Page 158 El Kabron Tel: 7803416 www.elkabron.com Page 133 Jenja Tel: 8469077 www.jenjabali.com Page 19 Yak Map W.14 Ku De Ta Tel: 736969 www.kudeta.net Page 3 Yak Map N.8 Laca Laca Tel: 2032323 www.lacalacabali.com Page 53 Yak Map T.8 Livingstone Tel: 4735949 Fb: Livingstone cafĂŠ & Bakery Page 110 Yak Map S.3 Merah Putih Tel: 8465950
www.merahputihbali.com Page 49 Yak Map O.4 Mozaic Ubud Tel: 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Page 55 Potato Head Beach Tel: 4737977 www.ptthead.com www.lilin-bali.com Page 31 Yak Map N.5 Salt Tapas & Bar Tel: 737675 www.salttapasbali.com Page 32 Yak Map O.6 Shiro Restaurant Tel: 731343 www.shirobar.com Page 15 Yak Map R.6 Sundara 708333 www.sundarabali.com Page 35 Tirtha Dining Tel: 8471151/0828361111 www.tirthadining.com Page 28 The Bistrot Tel: 738308 www.bistrot-bali.com Page 21 Yak Map S.8 The Parlour Tel: 4734654 www.theparlourbali.com Page 45 Yak Map Q.4 The Straw Hut Tel: 736750 Fb: The Straw Hut Page 125 Yak Map P.9 Uma Cucina Tel: 972448 www.umacucina.com Page 32 Bud Map A.2 VIN Plus Tel: 4732377 www.vinplus.biz Page 20 Yak Map O.7 Zibiru Tel: 082236631302 www.zibiru.com Page 24 Yak Map T.8 SHOPS 69 Slam www.69slam.com Page 17 Yak Map T.7, V.9, V.10 Ayu Pearl Page 73 Yak Map U.10 Bamboo Blonde www.bambooblonde.com
Page 47 Yak Map S.8, U.11 Balquisse Living Tel: 8476833 www.balquisseliving.com Page 23 Yak Map W.7, E.5 Biasa www.biasagroup.com Page 6-7 Yak Map V.12 Body & Soul www.bodyandsoulclothing.com Page 33 Yak Map V.13 By The Sea www.bythesea.co.id Page 27 Yak Map V.12 Deus Ex Machina Tel: 3683395 www.deuscustoms.com Page 10-11 Yak Map O.8 Grammes Jewelry Tel: 731562/283861/769555 www.grammesbali.com Page 54 Yak Map U.10 Havaianas Tel: 08113861406 www.universo.co.id Page 16 Yak Map Y.9 Kapal Laut www.kapal-laut.com Page 144 Yak Map T.14 Nagicia www.nagicia.com Page 12 Yak Map V.10 Paul Ropp Tel: 701202,081238159153,731002 www.paulropp.com Back Cover Yak Map T.8 Periplus www.periplus.com Page 138 Yak Map F.13/P.7 Seafolly Tel: 08113861406 www.universo.co.id Page FIC Yak Map Y.9 Shan Shan Tel: 737160/704945/5512857 www.shan-shan.info Page 25 Yak Map U.9 SKS www.sksbali.com Page 13 Yak Map T.8 SOUQ Tel: 082237801817 www.souqstore.co Page 14 Yak Map U.7 Warisan Furniture Tel: 730048/701081 www.warisan.com Page 111 Yak Map.U.4
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andrew e. hall knows nothing about kids. WORD.
Life was pretty simple – the things that excited and entertained my sister and I came mainly from our surrounding environment. The boundless energy of childhood was expended by being “out there” with our friends and engaging in “play” (not PlayStation) which is so important in the development of a social conscience and confidence. We thought we were doing really well if from time to time we were allowed to buy a 20 cent bag of mixed sweets – unlike today where (for the same money) the shop-keeper says, “here’s your sweet, mix it yourself”. I know nothing about kids today as a generational concept. But I do have a little friend, Cempaka, who is the daughter of a friend of mine.
I KNOW nothing about kids. But in the dim recesses of my consciousness I recall actually being one once. I remember that all things appeared larger than they do now – my world in the Australian outback was a wondrously wide and mysterious place. A place to explore in great detail . . . as long as I got home in time for tea. I remember getting my first bicycle – my pride and joy – which made my explorations wider ranging and led to the seeming permanence of Band-Aids on my knees and elbows. At around the same time my parents gave me my first football (oval, not round) and one of my favourite things – when I wasn’t riding like the wind through the bush – was playing kick-to-kick with my dad on the red earth that surrounded our house, on the outskirts of a town populated by 100 or so people. At night we, as a family, devoured books. My writing career began (at age seven or eight) after we had moved to a rather larger town and acquired a kitten that I became attached to. Unfortunately the animal gave me ringworm and my dad took it into the bush and shot it. I wrote my first poem about “Kitty” that my mum still drags out from time to time these decades later.
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She is a complex character who is entirely comfortable with all forms of electronica and who loves books – especially about goblins and fairies. Cempaka delights in performing magic tricks. And she’s pretty handy at karate. She is curious but sometimes I find myself unable to answer her questions about the world around us. At times its cruelty (especially to children) overwhelms me. But in Cempaka I see the future and the love she brings to all things inspires me to believe that it just might turn out okay after all. I know nothing about kids (because I have never had the privilege of being a father) but I do know that we (as adults) have a responsibility to preserve a world that is worth inheriting from a wider “we” who have yet to learn that destroying our environment is a bad idea. That conflict and war is a really bad idea. And that deploying electronic devices as a de facto parenting measure is, at the very least, careless. What I do know about kids is that we should listen to them when they talk to us. Sometimes the wisdom that comes from purity is profound. A.H. Editor's note: Ringworm cream is available at most reputable apotiks in Bali.