Escape Issue 19

win #TWO " Secret cornwall A WEEKEND

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

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Issue 19

C CUtE alE RT!

ANIMAL MAGIC FROM CARDIFF TO LONDON

Where to spot wildlife A ~

Shakespeare hipster Discover the stories behind the capital’s exciting past TO BEARD OR NOT TO BEARD, THAT HIPSTER QUESTION

SOUTHAMPTON’S

PREMIER VISITOR ATTRACTION

E X P L O R E T H E FA S C I N AT I N G S T O R I E S O F T H E PA S S E N G E R S A N D C R E W O F T H E T I TA N I C T H R O U G H A U N I Q U E I NTER AC TIVE E XPERI ENCE

www.seacitymuseum.co.uk O 023 8083 3007

SeaCityMuseum

@seacitymuseum

IN THIS ISSUE

15 MN 20 AUTU

REACHING ACROSS OUR NETWORK – THIS IS YOUR ESCAPE ROUTE

ILLUSTRATION: KERRY HYNDMAN

TURN THE PAGE...

09 NEXT STOP We find the hottest shows, events and exhibitions, as well as our pick of the five best ice cream parlours 14 WHAT makes london great A look at the history of the UK’s capital through its famous landmarks, including the Globe Theatre and St Paul’s Cathedral 23 class act Your guide to learning something new this season 27 TOP FARE The latest from restaurateur, food writer and seafood guru Mitch Tonks 28 Wild West Come face to face with the

FIND US ONLINE

best nature can offer, including cute otters and scruffy bats 33 WHY WE LOVE… Exeter, the cathedral city that’s rich with history and heritage 35 Cream of cornwall An insider’s look at some of the great things the region has to offer, off the beaten track 41 kids’ page Paddington Bear presides over this issue’s brainteasers 43 THE GUIDE All you need to know about travelling with First Great Western 50 GIVE ME FIVE Cerys Matthews tells us all about her radio show, her music festival, her children’s book and her ballet!

FACEBOOK.COM/ FIRSTGREATWESTERN

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

OUR 2FOR1 PICKS

DOCTOR WHO CARDIFF BUS TOUR An intergalactic journey around some of the show’s locations

PORTSMOUTH HISTORIC DOCKYARD Step back in time and experience 800 years of British naval history

Go Zorbing London Run around in an inflatable ball like some kind of funloving, oversized hamster

how to get your 2for1 Take advantage of savings on attractions and days out by turning to PAGE 46

TWITTER.COM/ FGW

FIRSTGREATWESTERN. CO.UK escape | 3

OPERAT IONS ANALYS T NURSE

DOCTOR MARKE ENGINE TEER ER

ACHIEVE SOMETHING REMARKABLE Get ready for an adventure like no other. Join the only global yacht race crewed by people like you, no experience required.

Sign up for a single leg, combine several or become one of an elite few who complete a circumnavigation.

clipperroundtheworld.com/apply +44 (0) 2392 526000

WELCOME

15 MN 20 AUTU

The castle at St Michael's Mount, Cornwall Editorial enquiries Editor Dan Panes

escapeeditor@thinkpublishing.co.uk

Managing Editor

Andrew Cattanach andrew@thinkpublishing.co.uk 0141 375 0481 Assistant Editor

Alec Mackenzie alec.mackenzie@thinkpublishing.co.uk 0141 375 0489 Design Matthew Ball Sub-editor Andrew Littlefield Advertising Sales

Molly Matthews molly.matthews@thinkpublishing.co.uk Publisher John Innes john.innes@thinkpublishing.co.uk Published on behalf of First Great Western by think

25 Chapel Street London NW1 5DH 020 3771 7200 thinkpublishing.co.uk

First Great Western

Head Office, Milford House 1 Milford Street, Swindon SN1 1HL firstgreatwestern.co.uk

MAKING THE MOST OF THE NETWORK

T

he biggest challenge we face when putting together Escape is making sure that we represent the breadth of amazing destinations from across the network. We don't always manage to fit each stop into every issue, although we certainly look to offer readers a taste of the key areas, including South Wales, Cornwall, Gloucestershire, Dorset and Somerset.

But let us not forget London, which is, after all, one of the world’s biggest tourist destinations. On page 14, we bring you our mini-history of modern London, seen from the perspective of four key attractions. As well as a history lesson, it offers some quality ideas for things to see and do in the Big Smoke.

While catering for all you urban enthusiasts, we also have two features that look beyond the city walls. Turn to

page 28 to see where best to spot birds and beasts in their natural habitat. Meanwhile, on page 35, we go off the beaten track and reveal Cornwall’s hidden gems.

We also have a back-to-schoolthemed feature on the best evening and weekend courses available across the network for you and the family. Turn to page 23 to find out how to expand your brainbox.

Finally, we have all the usual suspects, including a cool kids’ page, a column from chef Mitch Tonks and our fab listings section, Next Stop.

WIN

Dan Panes Editor

A LUXURY TRIP FOR TWO TO CARDIFF’S MERMAID QUAY TURN TO PAGE 11

© 2015 First Great Western. All rights reserved. Every reasonable endeavour has been made to find and contact the copyright owners of the works included in this newspaper. However, if you believe a copyright work has been included without your permission, please contact the publishers. Views of contributors and advertisers do not necessarily reflect the policy of First Great Western or those of the publishers. All material correct at time of going to press.

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

escape | 5

Z

we’ll takE you there

tunnel vision

Every year, Open House London offers a peek into hundreds of the capital’s most interesting and otherwise inaccessible buildings and spaces. Make sure you take a tour, if only to marvel at the Lee Tunnel & Beckton Sludge Power Generator. This, the UK’s biggest sewage treatment works, helps capture a colossal 39 million tonnes of sewage each year.

Sounds weird – looks amazing.

WHAT Lee Tunnel & Beckton Sludge Power Generator WHERE Jenkins Lane, Barking, London WHEN 19–20 September

FACT!

It would take Usain Bolt nearly nine minutes to run the length of the tunnel (if he could maintain his top speed for that long!)

6 | escape

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

escape | 7

Next Stop

life in colour Holi Festival of Colours draws its inspiration from the traditional Hindu spring holiday of the same name.

A two-day fiesta taking place over a weekend in September, Holi is an opportunity to dance to some banging tunes while chucking colourful

pigments around. The musical line-up includes Australian lady-duo Nervo and German House pioneers Booka Shade.

WHERE Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park WHEN 12–13 September TAKE THE DLR TO StratforD and then a short walk to the park

Hands up who likes getting pigment on their face

YOUR GUIDE TO GREAT EVENTS HAPPENING JUST ALONG THE TRACKS www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

escape | 9

NEXT STOP

Three top plays

1984 Playhouse Theatre, London Until 5 September

Paranoia, brainwashing and some pretty difficult torture scenes abound in this impressive staging of George Orwell's incredible novel.

Shaun in the City Everyone’s favourite claymation character takes to the streets of Bristol throughout July and August. Follow the trail and try and see every one of the 70 specially-commissioned sculptures, each created by an impressive line-up of artists, designers and celebrities.

But can you find the unique First Great Western Shaun, as designed by Tim Sutcliffe?

Tweet us your pictures of the Shaun sculpture @FGW.

WALLACE ! GROMIT’S CHILDREN’S FOUNDATION. CHARITY NO. 1043603 SHAUN THE SHEEP ! SHAUN IN THE CITY ©! ™ AARDMAN ANIMATIONS LTD 2015

theatre classics

WHERE Bristol

Full sheep ahead

WHEN Until 31 August TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Bristol Temple Meads

playhousetheatrelondon.com

The Crucible The Old Vic, Bristol Until 13 September

One of Arthur Miller’s finest, The Crucible is a scathing look at the Salem witch trials.

Theatre does not get much better than this. oldvictheatre.com

Talking Heads Theatre Royal Bath 22 July–8 August

Three of Alan Bennett’s classic television monologues come to the stage, featuring Open All Hours star Stephanie Cole.

Tim and his First Great Western Shaun

theatreroyal.org.uk

best of the rest 10 | escape

^ Exhibition

Carsten Holler Southbank Centre, London until 6 September Will include two massive slides!

^ exhibition

^

New York City Apartment Bristol Museum & Art Gallery until 27 September Weird ethereal sculpture of a flat

Mermaid Mondays Bristol Aquarium Mondays from 27 July–31 August Meet the aquarium's resident mermaids

musical

^ air show

Red Bull Air Race Ascot 15–16 August Daredevil loop-thelooping at Ascot Racecourse

^ musical

^

Dirty Rotten Scoundrels Wales Millennium Centre, Cardiff 18–22 August You've seen the movie, now see the musical

Jimmy Carr – Funny Business Weymouth Pavillion 23 August The hardest working man in comedy

comedy

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

COMPETITION

The Dresden Philharmonic step out in Wales

Dresden Philharmonic The International Concert Series kicks off in style with the prestigious Dresden Philharmonic, performing a programme of Wagner, Brahms and Rachmaninov.

WHERE St David’s Hall WHEN 7 October TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Cardiff central

Join the scrum for Rugby World Cup tickets

Rugby World Cup England hosts this year’s Rugby World Cup, with Cardiff playing a key role. Watch rugby’s finest contenders compete for the sport’s most coveted prize at some of the biggest and best venues across the network, including Wembley, Exeter and the Millennium Stadium, Wales.

Come and play at Mermaid Quay

Win a day out for two at Mermaid Quay Right on the water’s edge in the heart of Cardiff Bay, Mermaid Quay is where Cardiff comes to play. The wealth of waterfront restaurants, cafés and bars, with menus from around the world, means there’s something for every taste and pocket.

If it’s laughs you’re after, there’s nowhere better than The Glee Club – one of the UK’s top stand-up venues.

Shops and services range from boutiques offering fine foods, fabulous furnishings, home decorations and great gifts, to Ken Picton’s awardwinning hairdressing salon and spa.

PRIZE This amazing prize package lets you and a friend or partner experience what’s on offer: l A fabulous trip around Cardiff Bay on the Aquabus with unique views of Cardiff and Cardiff Bay from the water. l A bottle of champagne at Mermaid Quay’s sumptuous, glitzy champagne bar, the VIP Piano Lounge. l Eat out in style at San Martino, one of Mermaid Quay’s fantastic Italian restaurants, with authentic dining and picturesque waterfront views over the Bay.

l Laugh the night away at Wales’ premier comedy venue, The Glee Club. l Unwind with a one-night stay at Holiday Inn Express Cardiff Bay. HOW TO ENTER Answer the question below for your chance to win this fabulous day in the Bay at Mermaid Quay: Q What’s the name of the comedy club in Mermaid Quay?

Enter at firstgreatwestern. co.uk/mermaidquay Closing date for entries is 9 October.

WHERE Various venues WHEN 18 September–31 October

^ family fun

Bristol Festival of Puppetry Various venues 27 August– 6 September Fun for all the family

^ madness

^

Night of the jumps The O2, London 5 September Top riders compete at doing some very scary things

New York Jets vs Miami Dolphins Wembley, London 4 October Two of the league's best teams – in the UK!

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

sport

Enjoy a drink on the quayside TERMS AND CONDITIONS Competition closing date 9 October 2015. Winner and guest must both be over 18. Prize must be taken 31 March 2016.

Prize not valid during December 2015. No cash alternative available. Prize subject to availability, terms and conditions apply.

For more information visit mermaidquay.co.uk

escape | 11

NEXT STOP

Let the battle commence WATERLOO ENTHUSIASTS GO ON DISPLAY AT SOMERSET HOUSE

This year is the bicentenary of the Battle of Waterloo, and to help commemorate it, photographer Sam Faulkner is exhibiting his exquisite images of battle reenactors.

Since 2009, Faulkner has been photographing participants at the yearly Battle of Waterloo recreations that take place in Belgium. This is his selection from 300 images.

WHERE Somerset House WHEN Until 31 August NEAREST TUBE Temple

Historic horseplay at Somerset House

Drawing Water Art Festival 2015 This free family half-term art festival in the heart of Cardiff Bay features kids’ workshops, street theatre, treasure hunts and more.

WHERE mermaid quay, cardiff WHEN 24 October–1 November TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Cardiff central

12 | escape

Ar Waith, Ar Daith Wales Millennium Centre’s epic celebration of Welsh myth and magic, Ar Waith, Ar Daith will culminate in a spectacular free event outside the iconic venue this September. With the participation of hundreds of performers from across Wales, the finale event will www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

DID YOU KNOW?

I scream, you scream, we all scream for ice cream

FIREPOWER

The bicentenary reenactment included an estimated 5,000 reenactors, 300 horses and 100 cannons.

WAR PHOTOGRAPHY

Waterloo was the last European battle before photography was invented.

DREAM TEAM

On the continent, Waterloo is known as La Belle Alliance, named after the ‘beautiful alliance’ between Britain and Prussia.

5 ICE CREAM

PARLOURS

Find your perfect flavour of the month

1

3

4

5

CORNWALL

MUMBLES

OXFORD

Frozen treats emerge from clouds of billowing fog at Wales’ first liquid nitrogen ice cream parlour.

The science is not merely for show, as the liquid nitrogen creates a smooth velvety texture and creaminess that you won’t find elsewhere.

Established in 2004 in the scenic centre of Hayle, Mr B’s offers a dizzying number of flavours, from apple crumble to white chocolate and pistachio ripple. This Cornish-Italian crossover shouldn’t be missed during the summer.

This family café and ice cream parlour offers spectacular views out over Swansea Bay, to be enjoyed while savouring a strawberry sundae.

Complementing the vast array of different ice creams are plenty of authentic pizzas, pastas and pastries.

The brainchild of former Oxford University student George Stroud, G&D’s now has three cafés in the city of dreaming spires. They all use a special ‘slow turn, quick freeze’ ice cream-making technique, adding in ingredients like Mexican vanilla and Belgian chocolate.

NEAREST TUBE

TAKE FGW TRAIN TO

TAKE FGW TRAIN TO

TAKE FGW TRAIN TO

WHEN 12 September

LEICESTER SQUARE

CARDIFF

HAYLE

SWANSEA

OXFORD

TAKE FGW TRAIN TO cardiff central

lagelatiera.co.uk

sciencecream.co.uk

mrbsicecream.co.uk

verdis-cafe.co.uk

gdcafe.com

LA GELATIERA

2

SCIENCE CREAM

MR B’S

CARDIFF

WHERE Wales Millennium Centre,

Get your gourmet gelato in this popular Covent Garden shop that makes the most of traditional churning techniques.

Aromatherapy meets ice cream with awardwinning flavours such as honey, rosemary and orange zest, and basil and chilli.

cardiff

LONDON

combine song, storytelling, music, dance, projection and pyrotechnics, bringing Cardiff Bay to life in a mighty mix of traditional and contemporary cultures.

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

VERDI’S

G&D’S

TAKE FGW TRAIN TO

escape | 13

© SAM FAULKNER

we love

What makes London

GREAT To find out about the capital’s exciting past, look to its buildings.

Elizabeth Mistry tells their stories

A

lmost 2,000 years ago, the Romans established a base at a small Saxon riverbank settlement in the south of England, several leagues inland from the sea. They named it Londinium.

As the centuries passed, the city expanded and became a trading hub. Then in the 2nd century AD, London replaced Colchester as the regional capital. Eventually the capital received the royal seal of approval from a succession of monarchs who had hitherto chosen to live abroad or in the

countryside, away from the bustle of the growing metropolis.

Ravaged over time by plague, fire and war, London has continually heralded each new era by reinventing itself, and nowhere is this more apparent than in its architecture.

In parts of the City of London it sometimes seems that a new building appears almost every day. A walk through the streets, some of which were first laid out more than 800 years ago, can lead down a narrow alley to a medieval treasure overshadowed by the latest addition to an ever-changing skyline.

All the world’s a stage Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre NEAREST TUBE Blackfriars or Mansion House

It might seem strange to include a modern building when we’re embarking on a history of London’s past. But not only is Shakespeare’s Globe on Bankside a virtually identical replica of the original open air 'Wooden O' which opened in 1599 at the height of the English Renaissance, it is also constructed from many of the same materials – oak beams and plaster for the walls and a thatched roof made from water reeds which were in plentiful

supply when the River Thames served as the main transport artery for the city.

Bankside in the 17th century was the equivalent of today's West End, teaming with alehouses, bear baiting, cock fighting and other temptations. Elizabethan theatres, in fact, were deemed by many Londoners to be responsible for the rise in crime – due to the bawdy nature of the plays – and for the spread of the Bubonic Plague,

which would later force owners to close the Globe for periods to help prevent the disease’s proliferation.

Shakespeare had a financial as well as an artistic stake in the Globe, and so had an interest in attracting as wide an audience as possible.

Though not seen as respectable, theatres were hugely popular with all levels of society. Ordinary folk paid a penny – if they were prepared to stand as 'groundlings' in the yard around the stage come rain or shine – while the wealthy could afford a bench, a box or even a seat on the stage alongside the resting actors.

WHAT’S ON Richard II Until 18 October

A story about the nature of power and how it is too often contaminated by human weakness, Richard II is the first of Shakespeare’s four plays about the House of Lancaster. Watch as the king’s own vanity threatens to divide the nation and set off a civil war.

shakespearesglobe.com

DID YOU KNOW?

In 1613, a cannon used as a prop set fire to the Globe roof. The blaze quickly spread, resulting in the burning of the entire theatre. Fortunately there were no fatalities, though one man's trousers caught fire and he had to be doused with beer, ‘before he burnt his britches’.

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

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the summer season continues...

AS YOU LIKE IT Until 5 September

MEASURE FOR MEASURE Until 17 October

RICHARD II Until 18 September

Let there be light St Paul’s Cathedral NEAREST TUBE St Paul’s

Christopher Wren's architectural masterpiece – designed before the previous church was destroyed by the Great Fire of London in 1666 – epitomises the ideals of the Enlightenment, which saw a flourishing of philosophical debate and writing in the years that followed Oliver Cromwell's overthrow of King Charles I. Formally declared complete in 1711, St Paul's was the first English cathedral built after the Reformation – and the first where the choir sang in English. It is noted for its elegant baroque style that married classical restraint with showy extravagance. The cathedral inspired 17th-century poet James Wright to note:

‘Without, within, below, above, the eye is filled with unrestrained delight.’

However, not everyone was quite so enamoured, with one, more sectarian, critic complaining that there ‘was an air of Popery about the gilded capitals, the heavy arches’.

The completion of the famous dome coincided with works by some of the men and women who would chronicle London life in this extraordinary era: diarist Samuel Pepys, Daniel Defoe (whose seminal Journal of a Plague Year recorded streets now lost), poets Anne Finch and John Donne (who later became Dean of St Paul's) and engraver William Hogarth all left their mark – as did that other great landmark of the baroque age, the British Museum. stpauls.co.uk

BEST OF THE

BAROQUE Three masterpieces in and around the capital

The National Gallery

Lord John Stuart and his Brother, Lord Bernard Stuart

by Flemish painter Anthony van Dyck was composed only a few years before the English Civil War, which led to the eventual beheading of flamboyant Charles I. Van Dyck’s paintings are astonishing both for their gaudy beauty and their suggestion of hubris.

All was about to change for the English monarchy.

NEAREST TUBE Leicester Square

ANTHONY VAN DYCK, LORD JOHN STUART AND HIS BROTHER, LORD BERNARD STUART, ABOUT 1638 © THE NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON

Old Royal Naval College, Greenwich

Designed by two masters of the English baroque, Christopher Wren and Nicholas Hawksmoor, the Painted Hall is one of the finest of its kind in Europe. The wall and ceiling paintings are the room’s most breathtaking spectacle.

Painted by Sir James Thornhill, they’re a celebration of Britain’s maritime prowess and show the succession of English monarchs, with heaven glinting through the clouds in the background.

GETTING THERE Take the DLR to Cutty Sark

Victoria and Albert Museum

DID YOU KNOW?

Pepys’ diary records that when the Great Fire of London engulfed St Paul’s, the heat caused some of the coffins to burst open. One of them revealed the perfectly preserved body of a bishop who had died in 1402. It became a popular visitor attraction.

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

Some of Gianlorenzo Bernini’s baroque sculptures are so elaborately showy that they verge on the absurd – an elephant with an Egyptian obelisk on its back, anyone?

The V&A have his sculpture of Neptune and Triton on permanent display. It shows Neptune overpowering Triton upon a sea of trouble.

NEAREST TUBE South Kensington

escape | 17

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New Goth on the block Houses of Parliament (and Big Ben) NEAREST TUBE Westminster

The Palace of Westminster, once home to kings and queens, is now the seat of centralised political power in the UK. One of the most iconic landmarks in the city, it was mostly the work of Charles Barry, who commissioned a young architect named Augustus Pugin to provide the ornate interiors.

Pugin, who also worked on the Queen Elizabeth Tower and the bell inside (affectionately known as ‘Big Ben'), influenced Sir Gilbert Scott, who would design the Gothic station at St Pancras. Other popular buildings of the time include the Victoria and Albert Museum by Aston Webb, who also designed Buckingham Palace and

the Queen Victoria Monument opposite, at the start of the Mall.

Victoria's reign gave rise to some of the most enduring landmarks in the capital and overseas – this was the age of empire after all.

In 1851, the Great Exhibition drew thousands of visitors daily to Hyde Park, where goods from Britain and its colonial domains were displayed to the world.

This autumn, the Houses of Parliament will play a starring role in Suffragette, the new film starring Meryl Streep as Emmeline Pankhurst. It is the first time a feature film has ever been shot inside the Palace of Westminster. parliament.uk/visiting

DID YOU KNOW?

Suffragette Emily Wilding locked herself in a parliamentary cupboard on the night of the census in 1911, just so that her address would be recorded as the Palace of Westminster.

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

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Modern art powerhouse

Tate Modern

NEAREST TUBE Blackfriars

Industry and art come together in this postmodern cathedral dedicated to modern art, housed in a cavernous former power station designed by Giles Gilbert Scott. The gallery, famous for large-scale temporary exhibitions as well as retrospectives of contemporary artists, occupies a commanding position on the river, with the Millennium Bridge connecting it to St Paul’s Cathedral on the other side of the Thames.

Sister museum to Tate Britain, further down the river in

LONDON’S HISTORIC

Pimlico, Tate Modern has proved to be one of the most visited attractions in the capital since it opened in 1997. More than five million people pass through every year, many of whom will have also enjoyed the London Eye, another icon of the pre-millennial boom that shook London. This giant wheel opposite Westminster has now become a permanent fixture on the South Bank.

An extension to the gallery, by architects Herzog & de Meuron who worked on the original conversion, is set to double the space available when it opens in 2016.

HIPSTERS Bloomsbury and the Bloomsbury group

Bloomsbury, bordered by Tottenham Court Road and Euston Road, will forever be associated with the Bloomsbury Group. This collection of early 20th-century artists and intellectuals included writer Virginia Woolf (pictured), Vanessa Bell and John Maynard Keynes. Much of their work would have a strong influence on aesthetics and feminism in the post-war years. Blue Plaques can be found on several buildings in the area associated with the group.

NEAREST TUBE Goodge Street

tate.org.uk

The Soho sect

DID YOU KNOW?

The chimney at Tate Modern is 65 metres high

Nestled between Oxford Street and Charing Cross Road, Soho has long enjoyed a reputation for bohemian living. From the 1950s onwards, the availability of cheap lodgings made it a mecca for artists, including Francis Bacon (pictured).

He had a studio in the area and frequented the Colony Room, a drinking den that also counted painter Lucien Freud and artists’ muse Henrietta Moraes among its regulars.

NEAREST TUBE Tottenham Court Road and Leicester Square

Carnaby Street and Swinging London

Dating back to the 1600s, Karnaby Street, as it was known then, was originally home to Huguenot refugees from France, many of whom went on to establish thriving textile businesses. In the 1960s, the popularity of the clothes sold in the independent boutiques that lined the street was such that it had its own entry in the Oxford English Dictionary. The arrival of The Beatles put it on the map – though today it is home to branded stores and very little remains of the individuality that once made it one of the most famous streets in the world.

NEAREST TUBE Oxford Circus

20 | escape

Newfamily

e play zon

ALL D R A ABO

Now open at London Transport Museum

Covent Garden WC2E 7BB

Kids go free The Baker Street Cake Shop

Come and play!

WC2E 7BB

Supported by DCMS/Wolfson Fund Luke Rees-Pulley Charitable Trust Optare

Linking London’s Attractions MBNA Thames Clippers are the fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, serving 19 piers across London, from first thing in the morning to last thing at night Explore more of the attractions along the river with our unlimited River Roamer tickets * *River Roamer tickets valid from 9am onwards, not valid on Putney-Blackfriars or River Bus Express for The O2 routes

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A MILLION MILES FROM ORDINARY Discover the island paradise right on your doorstep. The Scillonian departs from Penzance up to seven days a week with harbour and station shuttle bus transfers available.

BE TRANSPORTED AT ISLESOFSCILLY-TRAVEL.CO.UK 01736 334220

COURSES

Test your inner daredevil

Become a bit of a breadhead

Class act

Keep fit and stay funky

keep your There's no better way to good working BODY AND brainbox in ing new ORDER THAN BY learning someth

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

escape | 23

INTO THE GROOVE Join the Strictly set for a dancing lesson or two

TOBACCO FACTORY THEATRES BRISTOL

CHILD’S PLAY MAKE-IT WORKSHOPS V&A, LONDON

These artist-led events let kids try their hand at activities such as weaving, printmaking and ceramics.

Suitable for 5–12 year olds vam.ac.uk

KEEPER EXPERIENCES BRISTOL ZOO

Budding David Attenboroughs will love the chance to be a zookeeper for the day and help look after many of Bristol Zoo’s famous residents.

Suitable for 6–15 year olds

You’ll find a jam-packed programme of dance at Bristol’s Tobacco Factory Theatres, with highly experienced tutors leading you through some high tempo Flamenco, ballet and Persian belly dancing. tobaccofactorytheatres.com

WONDERLAND STUDIOS CARDIFF

The sprung floors and over 300 feet of mirrors at these state of the art studios are sure to put a spring in your step.

Lots of professional dancers, singers and actors strut their stuff here, but the Wonderland Dance Academy also caters for complete beginners and all age groups. wonderlandstudios.ltd.uk

Shake it off at Pineapple

PINEAPPLE DANCE STUDIOS LONDON

Put your best foot forward at one of the world’s premiere dance studios.

A favourite haunt for pop artists and West End

performers, Pineapple teaches classes in nearly 40 varieties of dance, ranging from classical ballet to street jazz, hip hop to salsa, Egyptian dance to Bollywood grooves. pineapple.uk.com

bristolzoo.org.uk

CIRCUS NINJAS AIRCRAFT CIRCUS, LONDON

Stop clowning around and come along and learn trapeze, juggling, acrobatics, tightwire and lots more.

Suitable for 7–11 year olds

Haute couture cupcakes

aircraftcircus.com

HUNGER GAMES CAMP BRISTOL

Volunteer as Tribute and learn all about fire making, sneaking and stalking, shelter building, camouflage, edible plants and nature awareness skills.

Suitable for 12–16 year olds

FLOUR POWER CUPCAKEMAMA NEWQUAY

Become an all round entertainer with classes in drama, dance and singing.

Suitable for 4–18 year olds

At the boutique bakers Cupcakemama you can learn insider tricks on decorating cakes for every occasion. Fondant fanciers can have a go at making bite-sized works of art as well as letting their imagination loose on a giant cupcake, guaranteed to impress friends and family.

stagecoach.co.uk

cupcakemama.co.uk

wildwisehungergames.co.uk

THEATRE ARTS STAGECOACH, CARDIFF

24 | escape

THE ONE MILE BAKERY

Raise your grub game with these baking masterclasses BREAD AHEAD LONDON

This Cardiff-based bakery prides itself on giving you techniques, skills and recipes that are easily achievable at home.

Journalist, cook and baker Elisabeth Mahoney runs The One Mile Bakery, which also offers a fresh bread subscription service.

This purpose-built bakery school in the heart of Borough Market is the ideal place to experience artisan baking. Get ready to prepare an assortment of breads and pastries, with classes including the New York bagel and pretzel workshop and an introduction to French baking.

onemilebakery.com

breadahead.com/bakery-school

CARDIFF

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

SPORTING CHANCES Take on the challenge of an adventurous new activity WESTWAY CLIMBING CENTRE

Cornwall’s beautiful coastline. British kitesurf champion Lee ‘Pasty’ Harvey will instruct you in all the board basics and how to safely control your kite.

LONDON

Propel yourself to new heights by taking a course at Westway Climbing Centre, which boasts 14.5 metre high walls and 350 different routes to keep you on your toes. sports.westway.org

CARDIFF SKI AND SNOWBOARD CENTRE

more advanced riders who come to grind rails and do tricks during the popular freestyle sessions. skicardiff.co.uk

PASTY ADVENTURES MARAZION, CORNWALL

Make the most of Britain’s bracing climate and see where the wind takes you with some kitesurfing around

ENJ Y

Hit the slopes this summer and get an introduction to skiing and snowboarding in the heart of Cardiff.

Experienced instructors work with beginners performing their first snowplough and also the

pastyadventures.co.uk

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

BRISTOL BOXING GYM

Start your studies into the sweet science at this gym that’s been in business since 1989, and which moved to brand new facilities in Easton earlier this year. There are 22 punch bags to vent the day’s frustrations on and supervised classes with drills to improve every aspect of your fitness, strength, stamina and tone. westcountryboxing.com

Celebrate Bristol’s year as the UK’s first European Green Capital For the latest news and events, visit bristol2015.co.uk

/Bristol 2015 Official Partners

/@bristol_2015

Tasty kitesurfing with Pasty

A co-production between Welsh National Opera, Wales Millennium Centre and West Yorkshire Playhouse in association with Royal Exchange Theatre Performed by Welsh National Opera

Wales Millennium Centre, Cardiff 8 & 9 Oct Mayflower Theatre, Southampton 15 – 17 Oct The Bristol Hippodrome 22 – 24 Oct Venue Cymru, Llandudno 29 – 31 Oct New Theatre Oxford 5 – 7 Nov Liverpool Empire Theatre 13 & 14 Nov Birmingham Hippodrome 19 – 21 Nov Wales Millennium Centre, Cardiff 24 – 29 Nov

SWEENEY TODD

Stephen Sondheim Hugh Wheeler

Music and lyrics by Book by

From an adaptation by Christopher Bond Originally directed by

Harold Prince

Original orchestrations by Jonathan Tunick

THE TELEGRAPH

WNO Registered Charity No 221538

SUNDAY EXPRESS

THE TIMES

wno.org.uk/sweeney

Holy mackerel, now that’s a tagine

RECIPE

MACKEREL TAGINE Serves two

YOU WILL NEED

TOP FARE

BY MITCH TONKS

COASTAL COOKoutS

The fish aficionado fires up his beachside BBQ Picture the scene - it’s the middle of summer, the evening is long and light, and you’re sitting on the beach with your trousers rolled up and cool water lapping your feet. In the background you can hear the sound of kids playing and, as the sun slowly dips in the sky, some people start lighting up barbeques, opening up cool bags and setting up for a lazy supper by the sea.

If you live by the coast you’ll always have fresh fish and shellfish for the BBQ and if you’re just visiting, it’s worth doing the same as the locals – they know best!

There are quite often fishmongers in coastal towns so you’ll get some cracking fresh fish where it is landed.

Just bring a pot of mayo, some olive oil, lemon and herbs, salads and bread, and dinner will be a delight.

Mackerel eaten on the day it is caught is something else, a real treat that is hard to replicate. You can just add a bit of olive oil and lemon, sea salt and oregano and put on the BBQ for a few minutes either side, then eat maybe with a bowl of freshly chopped tomatoes.

Or, if you want a one-pot dish with fresh mackerel, then it is hard to beat a mackerel tagine, a recipe that combines the freshness of the just-caught mackerel with the warmth needed after a late summer swim.

Keep us updated about your best food finds @mitchtonks and @fgw

SUN, sand, seafood Mitch’s best BITES by THE beach Bantham Beach Devon

Try the amazing Gastrobus, run by my friend Claire Bishop. You’ll get a decent bite to eat from their beach kitchen and enjoy some great chat.

Hive Beach Café Dorset

Spend the day, have lunch in the café and then BBQ on the beach in the evening.

Saundersfoot South Wales

The Cliff Restaurant at St Brides Spa Hotel has a great view overlooking the beach. fishcombe cove Devon

Stroll round behind Rockfish Seafood Restaurant at the fish market, then walk 10-15 minutes along the coast, and you’ll come to the tiny hidden beach at Fishcombe.

The beautiful briny Bantham Beach

2-3 tbsp olive oil 2.5cm piece fresh root ginger, chopped ½ red pepper, chopped 4 cherry tomatoes, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 onion, chopped 1 mackerel, approx 350g, gutted and chopped into 5cm chunks or leave whole Sea salt Fresh coriander, finely chopped 40 black olives, optional Squeeze lemon to taste For the spice mix

1 tbsp ground allspice 1½ tbsp ground coriander 2 tbsp paprika 1 tbsp turmeric 2 tsp ground cassia 1 tsp ground cardamom 1 tsp chilli flakes To make 1. Mix all the ingredients

for the spice mix together and store in an airtight jar, ready to take to the beach.

2. Heat the BBQ and then the olive oil in a large deep pan. Add the ginger, peppers, tomatoes, garlic and onion and fry gently for 4-5 minutes.

Then add 1-2 tsp of your spice mix. Add the mackerel, cover with water and leave to simmer for 7-8 minutes if you’re using chunks of mackerel, or 12 minutes for a whole fish.

3. Before serving, season with plenty of salt and add the coriander, olives and a squeeze of lemon to taste.

escape | 27

WILD Land

The FGW network is HOME TO all SORTS of INTERESTING BIRDS, beasts AND critters

WEST

Forest of Dean

Dartmoor National Park

Exmoor National Park

Gloucester – the forest is

TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Newton Abbot

GETTING THERE Bus services are

an Onward bus journey

and then bus service 271

available in Barnstaple, Tiverton

TAKE FGW TRAIN TO

The Forest of Dean is a veritable haven for wildlife. It’s perhaps best-known for its resident birds, including hawfinches, wood warblers and pied flycatchers, but it is also home to wild boar, which, as far as we at Escape are concerned, is pretty damned exciting. Do not, however, approach a wild boar, as they are sometimes a little hostile.

There have been ponies living on Dartmoor for over 3,500 years. The current population are free roaming, owned by Dartmoor Commoners who have special grazing rights.

But if for some reason ponies are not your thing, you can always settle for the huge variety of birds, including buzzards and nightjars.

wyedeantourism.co.uk

dartmoor.gov.uk

and Taunton

Wild red deer roam free in Exmoor National Park, and there are plenty of opportunities to see them in action – especially during the autumn when the rutting season starts. Also keep an eye out for some pretty cool fungi, such as the rare waxcap, not to mention an array of butterflies, birds, lichens and mosses. exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk

Marazion Marsh

GETTING THERE Take GFW train to

St Erth and then an onward bus to Marazion

Marazion Marsh is an impressive looking corner of boggy Britain.

If the season’s right, you’ll spot the glorious golden-ringed dragonfly. And don’t miss the resident family of stonechats (they’re a kind of bird, by the way). bit.ly/marazionmarsh

Wild ponies couldn’t drag us away from Dartmoor 28 | escape

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

U

NATURE

remember that s humans don’t always th a whole host we share this world wi ating creatures. of different and fascin or air, wildlife in Whether on land, sea to hand than ser clo is st the South We to the best we give you our guide you might think. Here with all of it , ife ldl itain’s finest wi places to see some of Br m the just a short distance fro n. tio sta W FG nearest We’ve also got an ter interview with broadcas ife ldl wi t rse and Some who specialist Simon King, at gre the tells us about all the train. m fro see can wildlife you

Flat Holm Island TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Cardiff Central or Weston-super-Mare and the island is reached via an onward boat journey

Take a boat trip from Cardiff Bay or Weston-super-Mare to Flat Holm Island to get among some of the finest wildlife in the UK. Once occupied by reclusive monks and territorial Vikings, the island is now home to some weird and wonderful plants,

such as wild leek, as well as some pretty decent gulls, including colonies of lesser black-backed gull, herring gull and great black-backed gull.

But really, it’s all about getting off the mainland for a stretch, with day trips available, as well as camping and dormitory accommodation.

It’s a great place for all the family to experience wildlife wonders.

The harbour at Mousehole, near Penzance in Cornwall

Sea

www.flatholmisland.com

Falmouth

Penzance

TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Falmouth

TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Penzance

Believe it or not, there are plenty of opportunities to see dolphins off the coast of fair Blighty. Go to Falmouth and hop on one of the specially designed boat cruises that will take you out for a close encounter.

You’ll be in with a chance of seeing common dolphins, seals and porpoises.

Like Falmouth, Penzance is a great place to see some sea mammals, with specially chartered boat rides designed to increase your chances of spotting these fascinating creatures.

Dolphins, minke whales, basking sharks and seals are all known to hang out in this area, so keep your peepers peeled!

falmouth.co.uk

visitcornwall.com

EYEFUL OF OTTERS Where best to get a dose of cute

Cricklepit Mill TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Exeter

ALAMY

Try and spot the attraction’s resident otters out catching fish and generally doing a load of swimming. There are also sparrowhawks and herons to be spied. devonwildlifetrust.org/Cricklepit-mill

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

Smallbrook Meadows

Magor Marsh

TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Warminster

Severn tunnel JUNCTION

A great place to see otters in action, alongside kingfishers and maybe a water vole too, and all right next to the lovely town of Warminster.

Not far from Newport, this watery haven is a great place to spot wintering wildfowl and otters going about their business.

bit.ly/smallbrookmeadows

bit.ly/magormarsh

TAKE FGW TRAIN TO

escape | 29

DAYS OUT

NATURE ON THE NETWORK Naturalist Simon King on wildlife seen from the train

Avocet: as seen on the RSPB logo

Air

Newport Wetlands TAKE FGW TRAIN TO newport – the reserve is five miles away

This tranquil spot not far outside Newport is thriving with wildlife, and has a particularly nice bunch of resident birds, including martins, swifts and swallows, all searching for food overhead.

Keep an eye out for the occasional heron and perhaps a cheeky little otter here and there. bit.ly/newportwetlands

Highnam Woods TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Gloucester

Sitting just outside Gloucester, Highnam Woods is the remnant of ancient woodland, with a 2km nature trail. It’s the perfect spot

for birdwatching, with opportunities to see goshawks, lesser spotted woodpeckers, marsh tits, bullfinches, song thrushes, woodcocks and more. bit.ly/highnamwoods

Exe estuary TAKE FGW TRAIN TO EXMOUTH

You’re best waiting till winter to head to the Exe Estuary, but when you get there, you’ll not be disappointed – it is a hot spot for the avocet, the distinctive black and white wader that is the symbol of the RSPB. Take a boat trip from Exmouth to see some of the 25,000 wintering birds.

I have worked right across the nation as a naturalist and wildlife photographer, and indeed the world, but Somerset’s my home. I live near Frome, which is on the FGW line, and I regularly use the network.

You can see wildlife just about anywhere along the line.

I have seen many red kites from the train, particularly near Reading. I’ve spotted a lot of roe deer and foxes and one time saw a peregrine falcon hunting a flock of starlings. In fact, so quick is the peregrine falcon, it could quite easily overtake the fast train to London.

Historically, railway lines are a magnificent habitat. They represent a ‘corridor for life’, used by anything from roe deer to bumble bees travelling up and down the country. Where the borders around the rail line

are broader, there are areas perfect for all sorts of life, and reptiles, including slow worms, thrive along the edges of the track.

These kinds of spaces, perfect for a wide range of life to develop, are very important.

With the Simon King Wildlife Project, I’m looking to restore land that has over the years become less diverse. At my home near Frome, we’ve got a small patch of ground and in four years have managed to turn three very boring pasture fields into enormously rich meadows, woodland and a lake.

As part of the project, I’ve set up live camera feeds, which can be seen online. Check them out on my website. simonkingwildlife.com

exe-estuary.org

Somerset lad Simon King

BATTY FOR BATS

Rumour has it you’ll see bats here…

Opposite the overgrown ruined house between Rose Cottage and Penhale.

30 | escape

Chichester Canal

Thames Footpath

Thames Footpath Anywhere along the Windsor, Eton Take a stroll Chichester down Canal Anywhere along and Maidenhead stretch is perfect a stroll at Eton for spotting bats the canalTake at dawn or down the the canal Windsor, or dusk more dusk anddawn you are moreand you andare Maidenhead flying is perfect than likelythan seelikely somesee some stretch mammals flying mammals. for spotting bats.

SIMONKINGWILDLIFE.COM

North Street, Marazion, Cornwall

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

Monday 21 to Saturday 26 September

Wednesday 14 to Saturday 24 October An Oxford Playhouse, Northern Stage and Improbable production

EAST IS EAST

THE TEMPEST

Brilliantly alive. A great night out.

HHHH Independent

Directed by Phelim McDermott

Following its sensational West End run, one of the best British comedies of the last 20 years returns to the stage.

Improbable – one of the brilliant faces of British theatre.

Observer

Starring comedy award-winning actress Pauline McLynn (Shameless, EastEnders and Mrs Doyle in Father Ted), this critically-acclaimed show promises to be unmissable.

A sparkling new production of Shakespeare’s tale of love, revenge and forgiveness is brought to the stage by award-winning director Phelim McDermott. This new ensemble production contains visual delights, original music and plenty of mischief.

Tickets £15 to £31

Tickets £11.50 to £27

THIS AUTUMN AT OXFORD PLAYHOUSE...

LIMITED PLACES START SEPT 2015

BA (Hons), Masters and more in Art, Design and Digital Media.

01865 305305 www.oxfordplayhouse.com

plymouthart.ac.uk/clearing

Escape to Exeter Cathedral • • • •

Guided tours Daily worship Ancient history A warm welcome ..and much more!

Shop

Café

www.exeter-cathedral.org.uk

01392 285983

Spark your creativity with inspiration from the city or the coast, and shape your ideas with our cutting edge facilities.

From our digital FabLab to design craft workshops, we’ll support your developing artistry.

LIMITED PLACES AVAILABLE

plymouthart.ac.uk/clearing

Darts Farm: pick of the bunch

Take a cruise at Exeter Quayside

WHY WE9

exeter

Gothic splendour at Exeter Cathedral

in praise of a cathedral city rich in heritage and history Why go there?

What began as a fortified Roman town near the River Exe grew into an important medieval trading post and a spiritual hub with the magnificent Gothic cathedral at its centre. This cosmopolitan university city has lots to offer 21stcentury visitors, with great entertainment, food and accommodation.

station. This converted Georgian town house has all mod cons, including your own fully equipped kitchen.

What’s for dinner?

Nearby Topsham has an impressive platter of restaurants, pubs and delis. La Petite Maison serves Gallic-influenced food using locally sourced ingredients.

Darts Farm Shopping Village is home to this Where do I start?

SilverSprings year's National FARMA Step off the cobbled Hotel Awards' 'Best Farm Shop streets and into Exeter Cathedral with its vaulted in the UK'. ceiling and decorated tombs. Those with a head for heights can take a If I do one thing? guided tour of the tower and roof.

Unwind by Exeter Quayside, where stately buildings and warehouses, once the centre of a booming woollen Where should I kip? cloth industry, are now dedicated to SilverSprings boutique apartment leisure and relaxation. hotel is just minutes from the train K ROWLING AND RADIOHEAD’S THOM did you know? JYORKE WENT TO EXETER UNIVERSITY

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

only in exeter Get into the underground scene by exploring the network of medieval passageways, dating from the 14th century, under the high street.

They stretch for 425 metres across the city and were originally used to house water pipes and as a bomb shelter during World War II.

1

exeter.gov.uk/passages

Underground passages

collection of Disney resources in the UK. bdcmuseum.org.uk

and film are all at Exeter Phoenix, one of the South West’s foremost creative hubs. Alex Horne drops in with his comedy show Monsieur Butterfly on 12 July and former Jethro Tull guitarist Martin Barre will be appearing with his band on 12 September.

The Bill Douglas Cinema Museum has an extraordinary assortment of antique optical illusions, magic lanterns and stereoscopes.

Mousketeers young and old will also appreciate the largest Alex Horne

2

3 Music, theatre, art

exeterphoenix.org.uk

escape | 33

Escape Half-Page Ad Aug-Oct Edition_Layout 1 15/06/2015 12:30 Page 1 Half_Page_Horizontal.indd 1

16/06/2015 11:09

The Robert Cray Band Tuesday 6 October

Jimmy Carr Tuesday 24 November

Tree Fu Tom Live!

Wednesday 26 August

Richard Thompson Tuesday 15 September

Steve Backshall’s Wild World Sunday 15 November

The John Wilson Orchestra Friday 13 November

Jim Davidson Monday 12 October

Stewart Francis Friday 30 October

Cream of

HISTORY

Cornwall

Dip into the past with a visit to Bath's famous spa

ss travelled Abby Driver takes the road le to uncover some Cornish treasures

St Ives: spend a day by the bay

icture Cornwall and you’d be forgiven for thinking of pasties, the Eden Project and perhaps – as of late – Poldark. But that, my friends, is just the beginning. There is so much more to see if you’re prepared to venture off the well-worn tourist track and have an adventure. So burn your tourist brochures (or at least, set them to one side for now), grab a map and let’s hit the road less travelled.

P

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

The Lost Gardens of Heligan: it's a jungle out there

escape | 35

Chysauster: serene countryside

CULTURE VULTURE

The Exchange TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Penzance

The huge open gallery known as the Exchange – which takes its name and industrial décor from its origins as a telephone exchange – welcomes exhibitions on a scale never seen before in Cornwall.

Audiences can marvel not only at the art, but live performances, film screenings and community events, too. Check out its parent gallery, Newlyn Art Gallery, for works of a more 2D nature.

Chysauster Iron Age Village

Minack Theatre

newlynartgallery.co.uk

TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Penzance

and then the bus to Porthcurno

and then 3.5 mile walk

Chysauster is an Iron Age settlement, occupied almost 2,000 years ago. The village comprised several stonewalled courtyard houses that lined a village street and today you can mosey around and imagine how it used to be.

It’s a top-notch spot for wildlife too, with lots of visiting birds. Twitchers, get your binoculars at the ready.

An open-air amphitheatre set in the craggy clifftops, the Minack will win over even the most resistant of theatre-goers. Be dazzled this season by King Lear, The Ladykillers and The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe, set against a backdrop of brilliant blue sea. Pro tip: rent a cushion to avoid a dead behind. The granite benches are unforgiving!

bit.ly/Chysaustervillage

minack.com

The striking Exchange building

TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Penzance

The open-air Minack Theatre

Porth Beach: perfect for sun and surf

INTO NATURE Porth Beach TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Newquay and

Ethy Woods TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Lostwithiel and walk 4.5 miles to Lerryn

Reportedly the inspiration for Kenneth Grahame’s The Wind in the Willows, Ethy Woods has a touch of magic about it. For those more interested in crime than children’s fiction, keep your eyes peeled for the smuggler cave.

Legend has it that it hid a tunnel to the Ethy House cellar that was used for hiding contraband. bit.ly/ethywoods

36 | escape

then 1 mile coastal path to Porth

The Lost Gardens: a sleeping giant of an attraction

The Lost Gardens of Heligan TAKE FGW TRAIN to St Austell and then the 471 bus to Heligan

Created in the 18th century by the Cornish Tremayne family, the Lost Gardens of Heligan were left to ruin after the First World War. After an incredible restoration effort in the

1990s, the beautiful gardens now include an impressive selection of rhododendrons and camellias, a sub-tropical jungle area and Europe’s only pineapple pit, kept functioning by rotting manure – a fact we’re sure will amuse any children in tow.

Just a stone’s throw from the hustle and bustle of Newquay, Porth is the perfect spot for a family day out at the beach.

The water is lifeguarded during summer season, plus the beach is protected by headlands on both sides, so it’s a great haven for sunseekers too. Hungry?

Head to Café Coast and treat yourself to a cream tea. Just remember: jam then cream.

heligan.com

bit.ly/porthbeach

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

Mount Edgcumbe House: open until 24 September

VIEW FROM THE TOP

Mount Edgcumbe House GETTING THERE take fgw train to plymouth then ferry to Cremyll

Sitting on the Rame Peninsula across from the fine Devonshire city of Plymouth, Mount Edgcumbe House and Country Park is the perfect destination for a family day out. One of the forgotten corners of Cornwall, this elegant residence, once the stately home of the Edgcumbe family, is now a beautifully restored museum. mountedgcumbe.gov.uk

Sample a St Ives Cornish pasty

Lantic Bay

St Erth to St Ives train

TAKE FGW TRAIN TO St. Austell and

TAKE FGW TRAIN TO St Erth

then bus service 25

(and beyond!)

Should the summertime crowds start getting to you, slip away to Lantic Bay for a slice of quiet paradise. The catch? Set at the bottom of a cliff, you’ll need your walking boots to get to it. The views of the Atlantic Ocean from the top of the cliff – and on your way down to the beach – are nothing short of spectacular, though. And once you arrive? The unspoilt beauty and seclusion are a handsome reward.

If you’re going on holiday to Cornwall, chances are you’re planning to visit St. Ives. It is the epitome of summertime in Cornwall – all powder white sands, cobbled streets and ice cream-licking crowds. Make sure you schedule in a train journey from St Erth to St Ives. Expect sweeping views of the bay and colourful harbour as you zoom along the clifftops. bit.ly/sterthstives

Make the hike to Lantic Bay

bit.ly/lanticbay

Pandora Inn: thatch of the day

Blas Burgerworks: beef at its best

TUCK IN Pandora Inn TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Falmouth and

Great Cornish Food Festival

then a water taxi to Pandora inn

burger (with Cornish blue and truffle oil), washed down with a pint of Betty Stogs. While we’re at it, you could probably tempt us with some scoops of Willy Waller’s of St Ives ice cream, too.

You might think a 13th-century thatched pub would be adequately picturesque as is, but the Pandora Inn owners have taken things a step further with a glorious pontoon that juts out into the Restronguet Creek, allowing alfresco pub goers to soak up the glorious views. Spectacular sights aside, this is a pub serious about grub, from the bounty of fresh Cornish fish on offer, to rib eye cooked to perfection.

blasburgerworks.co.uk

pandorainn.com

TAKE FGW TRAIN TO Truro

Visit the Great Cornish Food Festival in Truro, taking place on 25–27 September, and you could take advantage of hotel The Idle Rocks' package, which offers First Class rail travel, dinner, bed, breakfast and station transfers, all from £795 per room for a two-night break, based on two sharing. To find out more call 01326 270270. greatcornishfood.co.uk

38 | escape

Blas Burgerworks TAKE FGW TRAIN TO St Ives

If you’re serious about your burgers, you need to head to Blas Burgerworks, now. The meat is free-range and Cornish and their burgers are second to none. Our pick? The truffle

DUE TO POPULAR DEMAND AT-BRISTOL SCIENCE CENTRE BRINGS YOU…

NEW NIGHT-TIME SHOWS FOR JUNE, JULY & AUGUST

P L A N E TA R I U M N I G H T S

Guido van der Werve, Nummer Acht: Everything is going to be alright. Courtesy the artist, image Ben Geraerts

#ISotM

In Search of the Miraculous

27th June - 19th September 2015 Presenting works by international artists that express a yearning for the sublime, a playful pursuit for new experiences and journeys - or a romantic contemplation of the sea and what may lie beyond the horizon

New Road / Newlyn / TR18 5PZ www.newlynartgallery.co.uk ☎ 01736 363715 OPEN: Mon - Sat, 10am - 5pm

Explore space like never before in the UK’s first 3D Planetarium TICKETS FROM £6 • at-bristol.org.uk

Magna Flora Flower Festival

15-20 September 2015 Michael Bowyer | Pam Lewis | Angela Turner

Celebrating 800 years of Magna Carta through the work of 500 volunteers, thousands of blooms and live demonstrations £11 adults, £5 children, £25 families Discounts apply to groups of 10+ Book online or buy on the door www.salisburycathedral.org.uk

Kids’

page

Get in Touch Send us

all your fun facts, draw ings and photos.

Our favourite s will be featur ed in future issu es!

© P&CO. Ltd./SC 2014. Licensed on behalf of Studiocanal S.A. by Copyrights Group

Here are some fun activities for you to do while you make your way from A to B

spot the difference

There are eight differences between these two pictures of Paddington reading a bedtime story. Can you spot them all?

escape@thinkpublishing.co.uk We’d love to hear from you!

for the fun of it

fun facts

As well as having unique fingerprints, humans also have unique tongue prints!

rrr

One million planet Earths could fit inside the sun!

A

Q What do you call an alligator in a vest?

An investigator!

µµµ

Q What did

bacon say to tomato?

A Lettuce get together!

Take a look at these two pairs and then try and answer the questions

which one...

Is louder

Is taller

A greengrocer cicada

The Eiffel Tower

A lion?

The Great Pyramid of Giza?

OR

ANSWERS: WHICH ONE…? 1) GREENGROCER CICADA 2) EIFFEL TOWER

Send your emails to

win! www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

Win a trip for you and your family* to Go Ape! by sending us the correct answer to the following question *Two adults and two children, maximum, to any Go Ape! location

Q

OR

ning mammal begin What kind of nzee? pa im h er 'A' is a c with the lett Send your answer to: Escape Competition Suite 2.3, Red Tree Business Suites 33 Dalmarnock Road Glasgow, G40 4LA escape | 41

Jane Austen’s Bath 4 July – 4 October 2015

Victoria Art Gallery

By Pulteney Bridge Bath BA2 4AT Tel. 01225 477233 www.victoriagal.org.uk

Tue to Sat 10.00-5.00 Sunday 1.30-5.00

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THE GUIDE

TICKETS TO SUIT YOU

GET THE MOST FROM YOUR JOURNEY At First Great Western, we believe every journey should be an enjoyable one. Whether you’re going away for the weekend with loved ones, doing extra work on your laptop or taking some time out for yourself, we’re here to help

BUY BEFORE YOU BOARD

First Class For added luxury, see if your train offers exclusive First Class carriages.

First Class offers more spacious seats, complimentary refreshments and newspapers and use of our dedicated First Class lounges.

Season Tickets Season Tickets are the best value for customers regularly making the same journey. There’s a choice of tickets lasting seven days, one year, or any number of months in-between.

Night Riviera Sleeper Arrive rested and relaxed with our Sleeper service. Our ‘moving hotel’ offers fully air-conditioned private cabins, complimentary travel accessories, free refreshments and even a morning wake-up call.

London Day Travelcard Visiting the capital for a short break?

The London Day Travelcard offers unlimited travel on all forms of public transport across the whole of London.

To qualify for the best value tickets and offers, buy your ticket in advance. Here’s how to buy before you board ONLINE firstgreatwestern.co.uk

BY PHONE 08457 000 125 (0700–2200 Mon–Fri, 0800–1900 Sat–Sun) AT THE STATION From ticket offices. Most debit and credit cards are accepted. Don’t forget to pick up a mini timetable or download one from our website.

Please make sure you buy your ticket before travelling.

Heading for Heathrow?

Banbury

As co Ch tt-u ar nde lb ur r-W y yc hw oo d

Pe rs Ev hore es h Ho am ne yb ou rn e

Kings Sutton

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Umberleigh

Bu rn ha m

Penryn

Totnes Ivybridge

Penmere

S Fe t Bu rry de Ro au a x Ke d y Do ham c De kya vo rd np or t

P

L ar Bo ost dm wit hie in l Pa rk w ay

St Au st ell

Perranwell

Coombe Junction Halt St Keyne Wishing Well Halt Causeland

Falmouth Town

Sandplace

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Looe

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Plymouth

G re en fo rd

So ut h

Ac to n

Ea lin g

Br oa dw ay Lin e

W es tE ali ng

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M ain

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Dr ay to n

Ha rlin gt on &

ye s

La ng ley Ive r W es tD ra Ha yton

G re en

Ba rP ar k

En d

Co ok ha m Pla tt Fu rz e

e Ta plo nh ea Bu w d rn ha m

M aid

Be tc hw or th Re iga te

Sh a Ch lford ilw or th G om D Do ork sha ing ll rk ing W es (D t ee pd en e)

Pa dd Lon in do gt n on Gatwick Airport

Polsloe Bridge

Br ig ht on

Sh or eh am -b ySe a Ho ve

W or th ing

Chetnole

Digby & Sowton Topsham

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Maiden Newton Lympstone Commando Lympstone Village

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Ce Exe St nt ter Ja ra m l es

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Tr ur o

Starcross Dawlish Warren Dawlish Teignmouth

Torre

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Exeter St Thomas S Be Vic t B re to ude Fe ria a rre Ro ux rs ad

ar M d en h St enio t G er Sa ma n lta sh s

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& Hig Br id hb gw rid at ge er

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Di d

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Ju nc tio n Tu nn el Pil nin g

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C Do lifto w n n Re dla nd

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O ld fie ld

First Great Western summer only service

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P Pa ort rk Ta w lb ay ot

Ca r

Fe ma rry r sid the Kid e n w e Pe lly m br ey & Bu rry Po rt

Neath

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W Sh ar ip gr lak av e e

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He nle yon -T M h ar low am es

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Fin st oc C k Ha om nb be or ou gh

W or G ce re at st M er alv er Fo M n W a or reg lvern at ce e Link st S er t Sh ree t ru b Hi ll

Hereford

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M in- ore M to ar ns Kin h gh am Sh ip to n

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FIND YOUR WAY AROUND THE NETWORK

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Upwey

Weymouth

escape | 43

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mermaid quay_Escape_Summer_15.indd 1

12:19

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On display until 29 August 2015 Plymouth City Museum and Art Gallery Drake Circus, Plymouth PL4 8AJ An exhibition from Seven Stories, National Centre for Children’s Books

ADMISSION FREE 10am to 5.30pm Tuesday to Friday 10am to 5pm Saturday 01752 304774 www.plymouth.gov.uk/museumblyton

Also supported by Newcastle City Council, the Heritage Lottery Fund, Hodder Children’s Books, the Enid Blyton Fund, Egmont, Harper Collins and Macmillan

OT MY FAVOURITE SP

TRANSPORT LINKS FROM STATIONS St Ives

coast comfort

Author Emylia Hall recommends her favourite west country destinations

I’m a Devon girl, and wherever I am, the wild West Country calls to me. When I lived in London, I loved escaping the city at weekends. I’d hear the sing-song announcement ‘Exeter St David’s, this is Exeter St David’s’ and it filled me with such happiness; it meant I was home.

In 2011, I was at Ness Cove in Shaldon when a telephone call from my agent changed my life.

I had my first ever book deal, for The Book of Summers. My husband and I kicked through the waves with joy, celebrating later with fish

and chips and champagne in a pub overlooking the water.

It was while I was writing my new novel, The Sea Between Us, that I fell in love with Cornwall’s Far West. The train to Penzance has to be one of Britain’s greatest railway journeys. In places the track runs so close to the water you can practically taste the salt, feel the spray.

My first experience of St Ives was by train from St Erth, and I’ll never forget the sight as the town and stunning beaches came into view. I love holidaying there, hanging out in

Baby on board… nearly Last February, I was on a First Great Western train from London Paddington to Bristol Temple Meads when my waters broke. I spent the rest of the journey in the toilet being looked after by the wonderful Gail Collings. She was so kind and calm. My son Calvin was born the following morning.

the galleries and beach cafes, body-boarding on Porthmeor, and breathing in the sea air.

TO FIND OUT MORE

The Sea Between Us will be published by Headline Review on 27 August 2015. For details, visit emyliahall.com

WHEN YOU’RE ON BOARD LUGGAGE can be stored on the overhead shelves, in the racks at the end of carriages, or under the seats.

PROBLEM WITH ONBOARD WIFI? If travelling on one of our daytime services operated by our 'Class 180' fleet, please email fgw.support@icomera.com or call 020 8028 0378. If taking one of our overnight Sleeper services or our long distance HST services, email FGW-OTS@nomadrail.com or call 0330 088 1275. Please ask a member of the onboard team if you're unsure which train type you are travelling on.

44 | escape

POWER POINTS are available to use for free on all our High Speed Trains. Look between the seats in front of you in Standard, or on the walls in First Class.

FIRST CLASS can be found in Coaches K and L on High Speed Trains, and on some selected local services.

THE QUIET CARRIAGE offers peaceful travel, free from phones and music players.

Head to Coach A in Standard on our High Speed Trains.

By bus PLUSBUS is a ticket that can be added to most types of train ticket.

PLUSBUS gives you unlimited bus travel around town at the start, finish, or at both ends of your train journey.

Together with your train ticket, it’s a great way to get directly to your chosen destination.

By bike We support green travel and bicycles are a fantastic way to make your way from A to B, not to mention the health benefits of pedal power. Don’t forget to reserve a place for your bike on board, where possible, or take advantage of bike hire schemes or parking facilities.

By plane Leave the car at home when flying from Bristol, Cardiff or Exeter International Airports, each a short bus ride away from the city’s station. Travel with us direct from Reading to Gatwick Airport by train or to Heathrow via the RailAir coach service from Reading.

By car Most of our stations have pay-as-you-go car parks. Pay over the phone using our cashless payment system. To use, register your contact details, car registration, where you have parked and your card details, by calling the number advertised at car parks. www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

Children an d under 25s half price

Family fun at the River & Rowing Museum!

The Lion, The Witch and the Wardrobe Get ready to step inside the wardrobe...

There is always something new to do for families at the Museum – exciting family days, creative craft and terrific trails.

4 - 31 December 2015 029 2064 6900 shermancymru.co.uk

@ShermanCymru #ChristmasattheSherman By Directed by

C S Lewis

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BOOK PUBLISHING Authors invited to submit manuscripts all categories including poetry

New Authors welcome A.H. STOCKWELL LTD Dept. 833, Torrs Park, Ilfracombe, Devon, EX34 8BA.

Tel: 01271 862557 www.ahstockwell.co.uk Publishers for 100 Years Quarter_Page.indd 1

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THE GUIDE

2FOR1 DAYS OUT

First Great Western is offering hundreds of fantastic 2FOR1 savings on top attractions, hotels, restaurants and more when you travel by train. So what’s your next stop going to be?

A jaunt to the London Motor Museum? A ride on the Doctor Who Cardiff Bus Tour? Or a trip to Brunel's ss Great Britain?

HOW TO GET YOUR OFFER To take advantage of these offers all you need to do is

1

4

Visit daysoutguide.co.uk

Print your 2FOR1 voucher

5

2 Browse the list of offers

3 Click ‘Claim offer’ on the one you like

Present the vouchers together with your National Rail train tickets at the attraction. (For full details visit daysoutguide.co.uk/faq)

SPECIAL OFFERS First Great Western has a range of great special offers.

Check them out on our website at firstgreatwestern.co.uk Railcards Railcards offer value for money if you travel by train, saving you one-third off most standard rail tickets (time restrictions may apply).

There are different types of Railcard, starting from £10, and they are valid for 12 months.

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Eurostar We’ve teamed up with Eurostar to offer you the chance to buy a ticket from your UK destination through to the Continent, making it easier to travel and giving you the best value for money.

SuperBus The First SuperBus ticket provides inclusive onward bus travel in the Bristol area for holders of certain train tickets with a destination of Bristol Parkway or Bristol Temple Meads, at no extra cost.

HOW ARE WE DOING? Contact us at fgwfeedback@firstgroup.com or call us on 08457 000 125 (0700 to 2200 every day) with any questions, concerns or feedback.

We’d love to hear from you.

National Rail Enquiries To find out all the latest service updates on all Train Operating Companies, call National Rail Enquiries on 08457 48 49 50.

Or you can check online at nationalrail.co.uk

Customer Panel First Great Western’s Customer Panel provides us with valuable customer feedback.

Contact your local Customer Panel member, who will help convey your comments. Email: customer.panel@firstgroup.com Passenger Focus The independent National Rail consumer watchdog can be contacted at passengerfocus.org.uk www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

SAFETY INFORMATION FOR PASSENGERS SEATED IN COACHES A, K AND THE BUFFET CAR, PLEASE CHECK YOUR NEAREST SAFETY POSTER FOR ADDITIONAL EVACUATION INSTRUCTIONS IF IT IS NECESSARY TO MOVE FROM YOUR COACH AND IT IS SAFE TO REMAIN ON THE TRAIN, MOVE TO ANOTHER COACH

These instructions are provided for your safety in the event of an emergency.

If there is no immediate danger, await instructions from on train staff.

It is important that you familiarise yourself with the location of emergency equipment.

EMERGENCY EVACUATION PROCEDURES EMERGENCY ALARM – TO STOP THE TRAIN IN AN EMERGENCY Locate the red emergency alarm handle and pull sharply towards you. This will immediately apply the train brakes. Please locate a member of staff and explain your reasons for operating the alarm

LIGHT STICKS – DURING AN EMERGENCY, IF THE LIGHTING ON THE TRAIN FAILS

Locate the 'Emergency light sticks' box

Pull sharply on the box where indicated on the label

Light sticks will then be removed OR be activated, which as required can either remain in the boxes

EMERGENCY ESCAPE – INTERNAL SLIDING DOORS If it is safe to remain on the train, move to another coach.

Do not take personal belongings with you

If the internal sliding door will not open, lift the emergency release cover where marked (situated in the top corner of the door)

SAFETY DIAGRAM FOR COACHES B, C, D, E, F, L, AND M

Using the Pull Tab, pull the locking strip to the opposite bottom corner of the door

IF IT IS NOT SAFE TO REMAIN ON THE TRAIN Once the train is stationary, leave through the coach doors

Using the horizontal panel, push the window fully out

BEFORE LEAVING THE TRAIN Be aware of other moving trains and any potential hazards

ONCE OFF THE TRAIN

Move to a safe location, away from the tracks.

Await instructions from train staff.

Do not step on or touch any rail

www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk

Strike cover of emergency release with fist

Remove cover and pull handle

Open the door fully, then leave the train

Use the offset steps or sit on the edge and lower yourself to the ground

escape | 49

GIVE ME FIVE The singer and author on setting up her own music festival and being the jewel of 6 music

Cerys Matthews

2 4 Cerys was formerly the lead vocalist with Catatonia

1

How does it feel to have the mostlistened to show on 6 Music and digital radio?

I’m overwhelmed with the wonderful reaction I get for the Sunday show but honestly, I don’t count myself as a DJ – rather a conduit for amazing recorders.

I pick every single minute of my show and the hard thing is knowing when to jump off.

I love it; I’m like a kid.

We can just dive into the vast BBC archives and you don’t know what you’re going to find.

d

: AND ALSO

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K K K

What can we expect from the festival you co-founded, The Good Life Experience?

We’ve only got one very short life and filling it with new experiences is what gives me a buzz – which is why I started this festival. Going out to a field, enjoying the landscape and filling your head with live music from people like Wilko Johnson is brilliant for music fanatics, but at The Good Life Experience you can also try out Cuban dancing, rolling your own cigars, or even a bit of axe throwing!

3

What inspired you to write children’s books?

I love writing! I feel that if you try and box up art then you’re kind of missing the point. I just like to look at life, writing and music as one big media that either moves you or not. I know how special it is when children find a book that they love.

My children especially like the Gruffalo and it’s fun for parents because they can put an accent on for every character (my Gruffalo is Scottish).

Describe an ideal day trip back home to Wales I’d get a train to Cardiff to see my friends at the Hangfire Barbecue for some brisket and beer, before visiting the Chalkie Davies exhibition at the National Museum of Wales. After that I would get the train to Swansea to visit my friend Jeff Towns who runs the world famous Dylan’s Mobile Bookstore.

We’d chew the cud together over an ice cream in the Mumbles.

5

How was it seeing Ballet Cymru’s reinterpretation of your album Tir? Ballet isn’t necessarily associated with folk music, but Ballet Cymru are a great ballet troupe with really imaginative choreography and it was wonderful to watch how the dancers expressed the album.

When I sing at the live shows with them I sit onstage while they dance around me and my eyes are wide open, watching these bodies.

K

The Good Life Experience is on 18–20 September, Hawarden Estate Farm Shop, Flintshire, Wales. Visit thegoodlifeexperience.co.uk Cerys lived in Nashville for several years where she researched local folk music Her 2010 album Tir is a collection of traditional Welsh songs Last year she was appointed Member of the Order of the British Empire for services to music

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