Historic Scotland Autumn 2021

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Maritime sites for coastal quests HISTORIC SCOTLAND

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AUTUMN 2021

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AUTUMN 2021 THE MAGAZINE FOR HISTORIC SCOTLAND MEMBERS

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Steps to protect our properties from the climate crisis PRODUCTION CLIENT

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WOMEN IN HISTORY

MAKE YOUR VISITS GREENER

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Welcome to

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Autumn is the perfect time to soak up the warming colours that appear all around our properties. We’re excited to continue welcoming everyone back safely to our castles, houses and other landmarks, so keep an eye out for updates online and to guarantee entry, please book in advance. As a thank you to our members, we’re offering three months’ free membership – turn to page 35 to find out more.

In this issue, we focus on the environment, looking at ways to protect our sites from the climate crisis so that we can enjoy them for years to come (page 14).

With this in mind, we also offer some top tips on visiting our finest historical destinations by train (page 22) and bike (page 36), letting you savour the journey as much as the final destination.

Elsewhere, we explore the vital role that women have played over the centuries (page 42) and take a sneak peek at the fabulous Castle of Light event at Edinburgh Castle (page 6). You can even read an extract from a fascinating new book on the industrial photography of John R. Hume (page 30).

Be sure to check out our retail pages (page 54) and events listings (page 50), for ideas on gifts and fun days out in the months ahead – including everything Halloween and Christmas-themed!

TAKE TWO

CLAIRE BOWIE Head of Membership & CRM

CONTRIBUTORS

Lady Margaret Crawford

SANDY LIGHTBODY Wheels of time (page 36) Sandy is an estates surveyor for Historic Environment Scotland and a keen cyclist

JOAN MCFADDEN Explore Scotland by train (page 22) Freelance journalist Joan writes regularly for the Guardian, the Telegraph, the Times and the Herald

MORVERN FRENCH Wealth, power and authority (page 42) Morvern is a properties historian for Historic Environment Scotland

Dorothy Wordsworth

Women of the world Through artefacts, human remains and the writings of female authors, historians are piecing together remarkable stories about women throughout history. For more untold stories, turn to page 42.

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HISTORIC ENVIRONMENT SCOTLAND Longmore House, Salisbury Place, Edinburgh EH9 1SH 0131 668 8600 historicenvironment.scot Membership enquiries 0131 668 8999 members@hes.scot Editorial enquiries members@hes.scot

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Head of Membership & CRM Claire Bowie Membership Operations Manager Pauline Brews Membership Operations Supervisor Hannah Rose

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Editors Fiona McKinlay, Arusa Qureshi fiona.mckinlay@thinkpublishing.co.uk Editorial Assistant Jennifer Constable Design Juanita Adu Sub-editors Sian Campbell, Andrew Littlefield

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Advertising Sales Jamie Dawson jamie.dawson@thinkpublishing.co.uk 0203 771 7201 Executive Director, Think John Innes john.innes@thinkpublishing.co.uk

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Think Suite 2.3, Red Tree Business Suites, 33 Dalmarnock Road, Glasgow G40 4LA 0141 375 0504 Photography All images provided by Historic Environment Scotland unless otherwise stated. For access to images of Scotland and our properties, call 0131 668 8647/8785 or email images@hes.scot Historic Scotland is published quarterly and printed on paper made from pulp sourced from sustainable materials.

The views expressed in the magazine do not necessarily reflect those of Historic Environment Scotland.

All information is correct at the time of going to press. © Historic Environment Scotland. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole is prohibited without prior agreement of the Membership and CRM Manager of Historic Environment Scotland.

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On the rails Take the train to seven spectacular destinations

Historic Environment Scotland (HES) is a Non Departmental Public Body established by the Historic Environment Scotland Act 2014. HES has assumed the property, rights, liabilities and obligations of Historic Scotland and RCAHMS. Visit historicenvironment.scot/about-us Scottish Charity No. SC045925.

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42 A woman’s world

Contents

Get out and about

SKARA BRAE P16

Skara Brae

FORTROSE CATHEDRAL P9

URQUHART CASTLE P12

EDZELL CASTLE P4

DUNBLANE CATHEDRAL P28

Access to properties

DUMBARTON CASTLE P38

As restrictions reduce, we will continue to manage capacities and visitor flow, and ask visitors to respect physical distancing to ensure a safe and enjoyable visit.

Please check historyawaits.scot for the latest information and to book before travelling

DUFF HOUSE P47

ANTONINE WALL P39

ST ANDREWS CASTLE P24

EDINBURGH CASTLE P6

CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE P42

REGULARS

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Forth Rail Bridge

ACCESSIBLE VERSION Historic Scotland magazine is also available as an accessible PDF. Please log in to our website at historicenvironment.scot/member to download your copy, or contact the membership team on 0131 668 8999 and they will be happy to help.

THE SCRIPT News and updates from around the country 12 SPOTLIGHT 54 SHOP 56 TIME TRIP

6 FEATURES

14 ‘A CRITICAL SITUATION’ How we’re mitigating the effects of climate change 22 EXPLORE BY TRAIN Seven great places to reach by public transport 30 WINDOW ON ANOTHER WORLD

John R. Hume’s industrial

photography unveiled in A Life of Industry 36 GET ON YOUR BIKE Stunning landmarks on a coast to coast cycle route 42 WEALTH, POWER AND AUTHORITY

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BIG PICTURE VERSION

EDZELL CASTLE

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Big Picture EDZELL CASTLE

An enchanting 17th-century walled garden Built by the Lindsays in the 1500s, Edzell Castle’s red sandstone walls and leafy surroundings make for an attractive enough setting – but the walled garden, constructed in 1604, really seals the deal.

While the flowers and foliage are maintained beautifully by our gardener, the stone walls add great intrigue to the scene.

Unique carved panels portray the seven cardinal virtues, seven liberal arts and seven planetary deities. The latter panel is a replica, with the original in the summer house.

The carvings are similar to engravings found in mainland Europe that date from the 16th century. David Lindsay, 1st Lord Balcarres, had a known interest in alchemy and Rosicrucianism, which may have influenced the symbology found here.

The garden is open until 30 September.

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Castle of Light returns Spectacular light show returns to Edinburgh Castle this winter

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ollowing the resounding success of its 2019 show we have once again joined forces with the same award-winning creative team to transform Edinburgh Castle into the visual spectacular that is Castle of Light.

From 19 November, just after the sun sets, Scotland’s celebrated landmark will transform into a magical wonderland, with the walls and rock faces of the national monument coming alive.

Among the lights and lasers, and hiding within the fog, mythical creatures will be waiting to be found during

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your visit. Rex, the famous red lion, will be back to guide you and will be joined by a few new friends, including a unicorn. Massive projections will be synchronised with lighting effects to a specially composed soundtrack to produce a complete themed show.

Castle of Light will appeal to visitors of all ages and offers the unique opportunity to experience the night-time views within and across the capital from the true star of the show – Edinburgh Castle.

This is an all-outdoor production with over a dozen different bespoke installations from the Esplanade up to the

finale in Crown Square.

Comfort facilities and a full range of catering will be available. While you can go at your own pace, we suggest that you allow around 90 minutes to enjoy the full experience. And remember to dress for the weather.

Castle of Light will be showing from 19 November 2021 until 9 January 2022.

Timed tickets are available to book online with admissions from 4.30– 8.30pm. Prices start at £12 for children with concessions available for members.

Keep your eyes peeled at castleoflight.scot for tickets going on sale in September.

DATES AND TICKETS November: Fri 19–Sun 21, Thu 25–Sun 28 December: Thu 2–Sun 5, Thu 9–Sun 12, Thu 16– Sun 19, Tue 21–Thu 23, Mon 27–Thu 30 January: Fri 7–Sun 9 Tickets must be booked online in advance.

No walk-ups permitted.

Adult: £20 Concessions: £16 Child: £12 Family tickets: £40–£68 Member discount available.

Places for prayer How Dundee’s South Asians made places of worship

Dunchraigaig Cairn is home to prehistoric deer carvings

Cairn’s secrets Ancient animal carvings found in Scotland Prehistoric animal carvings have been discovered for the first time in Scotland inside Dunchraigaig Cairn in Kilmartin Glen.

Estimated to be between 4,000 and 5,000 years old, the carvings are thought to date to the Neolithic or early Bronze Age. The carvings include depictions of two male red deer, which would have been the largest deer species in Scotland at the time and a valuable source of meat, hides, bones and antlers for local communities. They were discovered by Hamish

Fenton while he was visiting Kilmartin Glen.

Dr Tertia Barnett, principal investigator for Scotland’s Rock Art Project, said: “It was previously thought that prehistoric animal carvings of this date didn’t exist in Scotland, although they are known in parts of Europe, so it is very exciting that they have been discovered here for the first time.

“This rare discovery completely changes the assumption that prehistoric rock art in Britain was mainly geometric and non-figurative.”

Did you know that Dundee’s first South Asian citizens arrived almost 100 years ago? Or that one of the first residents, Dr Jainti Saggar, became Scotland’s first Asian local authority councillor in 1936?

Our graduate trainee Puravi Kumar has been exploring Dundee’s South Asian heritage. She’s been adding information about places of worship to Canmore, our online record of Scotland’s historic environment.

From tenements to custom-built mosques, you can discover more about these places of worship in her blog: Dundee’s South Asian Stories – Historic Environment Scotland Blog.

Stand-out staycation

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Restored Meadowbank Lodge reopens for short-term lets Nestling at the foot of Arthur’s Seat, within the boundary of Holyrood Park, lies a very special secret Historic Environment Scotland hideaway. Meadowbank Lodge has been lovingly restored and refurbished and is now available for short-term lets.

The history of this beautiful building dates back to the 1850s, when it was built as part of the grand design scheme of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert to

landscape Holyrood Park, put a road structure in and define the park boundaries with picturesque lodges at every entrance.

Meadowbank Lodge was built in 1858 as a home for park staff, allowing them to keep an eye on who was entering and exiting Holyrood Park.

It had lain empty for more than 10 years, but has now been carefully and sensitively

NEWS BRIEF

THANK YOU, BOB! ● Historic

Scotland’s much-loved wildlife columnist, Bob Tevendale, has retired from Historic Environment Scotland, after a long career that included the creation and evolution of our Ranger Service and providing natural heritage advice across sites. While he will no longer be writing his regular column, Bob still plans to continue helping with bat surveys. We thank him for his service and wish him a long and happy retirement!

RESEARCHING RUINS

● With funding from the Castle Studies Trust, our contractor Dr Coralie Mills of Dendrochronicle will be carrying out new research at the Castle of Old Wick ruins, with the hope of recovering dating evidence.

UNWRAPPING YOUR FEEDBACK

restored by our teams.

The lodge is available for short-term lets through Rettie.

For more information visit rettieshortlets.co. uk/properties

● The Summer issue of Historic Scotland was sent out unwrapped as part of a trial to reduce waste. Of those who got in touch with feedback, most were against the unwrapped format, preferring a biodegradable wrapper.

We continue to trial other mailing options including the paper wrapper in this issue. Feedback welcome at members@hes.scot HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 7

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Coastal quests

Five maritime sites you can visit around the Scottish coastline

Scotland boasts more than 6,000 miles of coastline, which has given us a rich maritime heritage. This autumn, visit five sites on our maritime heritage trail and travel to cathedrals, brochs and more to discover just a small part of Scotland’s maritime past.

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Fortrose Cathedral

Skilled stonemasons created the cathedral’s impressive architectural details, which showed the power of the local bishops. It is home to some of our finest medieval architecture, including Scotland’s tallest gravestone (5m).

A Highland medieval church, Fortrose Cathedral’s coastal location must have been important during Pictish times. It is thought St Curetan established the Roman church in Northern Pictland from here in the 8th century.

St Machar’s Cathedral

St Mary’s Chapel

Carn Liath Broch

The reported home of one of William Wallace’s quartered limbs, St Machar’s Cathedral has been historically looted for its materials, leaving the building weak. However, you can still see its unique wood-crafted heraldic ceiling.

St Mary’s location was accessible by Orcadians and Scandinavians. Its architecture has more similarities with buildings on Orkney and on the continent than it does with chapels elsewhere on mainland Scotland.

Brochs like Carn Liath were likely signs of communities marking their control of an area and possibly even the sea.

Being so close to the water, it is likely the sea was a key source of food, trade and more for the community.

More to do...

Visit the Engine Shed online to learn more about traditional buildings, how they were built, who built them and who lived in them. engineshed.scot

Explore our archives and collections online and discover some of the 38,000 objects found at these historic places. historicenvironment.scot/ collections

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Keills Chapel, Argyll

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The Great West Doorway, Holyrood Abbey

Melrose Abbey

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Our history in pictures Discover some of the oldest photographs held in our collections

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ur archive contains many historic photographs of our properties, ranging in date from the early years of photography through to the most recent digital images. Representing the work of both amateurs and professionals, they provide a fascinating illustrative account of our heritage through the years.

The earliest photographic collection in the archive is the work of John Forbes White (1831-1904) and includes views of Edinburgh, Holyrood Abbey and the Bishop’s Palace, Kirkwall, c.1857. He worked with the waxed paper

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process and, along with other photographers of the times, had to be an expert with chemicals to make and process the resulting images.

The archives also feature collections of other early photographers, such as an 1866 study of Melrose Abbey taken by William Donaldson Clark, Keills Chapel taken by the Reverend James B. Mackenzie and processed on site in the 1860s, as well as work by Captain Frederick W. L. Thomas of the Dun Carloway Broch, c1860.

These images and more can be accessed online at canmore.org.uk

Cross at Keills Chapel Inset: Dun Carloway Broch

Eyes on the prize Test your historical knowledge by spotting which of our sites the detail below comes from … and win a Scottish gift basket hamper from our online shop.

Meet the experts: Trainees will be mentored in the latest programme

Back to school Conservation training programme kicks off

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n 2021 we are running the third year of our training initiative, which focuses on building conservation skills and hosts trainees across the various teams in our Conservation Directorate.

A new cohort of trainees joined the programme at the end of the summer. They will gain experience,

knowledge and skills by working with our teams on live projects, sharing their knowledge with other trainees and contributing to conservation work.

Trainees will be mentored by experts in their field, receive group and individual training sessions, and have the opportunity to meet people across the sector.

For many years, we have run training programmes on traditional building and conservation skills, based out of our stonemasonry training centres in Elgin and Stirling.

Our long-running Craft Fellowship programme has included skills such as stone carving, blacksmithing, milling, mechanical engineering and boatbuilding.

Medieval marvel

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Artefact from St Andrews to feature in British Library exhibition A small sculptured stone fragment from St Andrews Cathedral will be displayed in a new exhibition at the British Library this autumn. Elizabeth and Mary: Royal Cousins, Rival Queens explores the turbulent relationship between The carved head Elizabeth I probably lost its body and Mary Queen in the Reformation of Scots.

This medieval carved head, thought to be St Andrew, is believed to have once been part of a fulllength figure that would have sat in a niche at the cathedral. It’s likely the figure was toppled during the Scottish Reformation.

Mary, a Catholic, was still living in France in 1560 when Scotland broke with the Papacy. Her mother, Marie de Guise, was engaged in a series of clashes with a group of Protestant Scottish nobles who were supported by the English.

ANSWER THIS QUESTION From which Historic Scotland property is this detail taken?

A: Dryburgh Abbey B: Deer Abbey C: Melrose Abbey UP FOR GRABS The winning entry will receive a Scottish gift basket hamper.

HOW TO ENTER For your chance to win, visit historicenvironment. scot/guesstheplace by 10 October 2021.

Terms and conditions apply (available at the web address above). Open to UK residents only.

CAN YOU GUESS? Founded in 1136, this abbey was the first Cistercian monastery in Scotland and was a hub of monastic life until the middle of the 16th century.

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Urquhart Castle

GRANT TOWER Thought to have been built around the mid1500s, this fashionable five-storey tower house served as the main residence of the castle

This now ruined castle has dominated the landscape of Loch Ness for centuries

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Looking over tranquil Loch Ness, Urquhart first appeared in historical records c. AD 580.

It is believed to have been the site of a Pictish hillfort, and may have even been the scene for St Columba’s documented encounter with a Pictish chief in the 6th century.

The Durward family were granted the lordship of Urquhart around 1230, and the castle was built in stone

soon after. It was rebuilt repeatedly over the following three centuries, later becoming a royal stronghold.

Urquhart was also used as a garrison for government forces in the Scottish Highlands during the Jacobite rising, and was blown up by departing soldiers in 1692 as they left.

Today, Urquhart remains as a handsome ruin in the landscape of the Highlands.

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GATEHOUSE Part of a major development in the late 1200s or early 1300s, this well-defended entrance to the castle may have been purposefully blown up by departing government troops after the first Jacobite rising in 1692

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DRAWBRIDGE The castle drawbridge would have been used to allow entry to the castle, but could also be raised if under siege. The high-walled causeway connecting it to the castle would have provided strong defensive positions

Urquhart Castle

The impressive Grant Tower overlooks Loch Ness

Timeline C.580

C.1230

1307

1384

1451

St Columba is said to have travelled through the Great Glen and visited a Pictish settlement near Inverness, potentially on or near the site of the castle

Alexander II grants lordship of Urquhart to Sir Thomas Durward, whose son Sir Alan probably started building work on the castle

Soldiers of Robert I (the Bruce) recapture Urquhart Castle and he uses it as a power base to bring North-East Scotland under his control

Alexander Stewart, Earl of Buchan, known as ‘the Wolf of Badenoch’, gains control of Urquhart Castle

At just 16 years old, Eòin MacDonald Lord of the Isles, leads a rising against James II and seizes Urquhart Castle

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Spotlight NETHER BAILEY By the 1300s, this courtyard would have provided access to the great hall, chapel and associated buildings, as the focus of the castle shifted northward

GREAT KITCHENS These were added to serve as kitchens adjoining the great hall.

Today, the water inlet survives along with a mass of stonework, which could have been the base of the central hearth

THE CASTLE RUINS TODAY The magnificent remains include evidence of more than 1,000 years of settlement

UPPER BAILEY After the focus of the settlement moved to the northern part of the property in the 1300s, the area here probably housed stables and workshops

CHAPEL This small rectangular building was thought to have been the castle’s chapel, but only the wall footings have survived

SUMMIT The earliest evidence of fortification here, which is presumed to date back to Pictish times, is found at this point.

The focus of the castle shifted north (left) around the 1300s

CASTLETOUN Situated to the west of the castle, this area would have been a hub of activity during the day, as the craftspeople serving the castle’s residents went about their daily business

DID YOU KNOW?

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In Adomnán’s biography of St Columba, written around AD 700, he records a monster in the River Ness, which may be a source for the Loch Ness Monster legend.

1509

1545

1637

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James IV grants the lordship of Urquhart to the Grant family, and asks them to build a stronghold to exert control in the region

The MacDonald raiders plunder every vestige of portable wealth from the castle, in what was to be the last of their raids on the glen

Marie Ogilvy, mother of the 7th Laird, moves into the castle and becomes its last high-status resident, before being driven out by Covenanters in 1644

Caroline, Countess Dowager of Seafield takes ownership of Urquhart Castle.

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‘WE ARE IN A CRITICAL SITUATION’ HOW DO WE PROTECT OUR HISTORIC LANDMARKS FROM CLIMATE CHANGE? Gavin Bell speaks to our team to find out

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climate feature A retaining wall helps protect Blackness Castle from coastal erosion

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n the olden days, defending castles was fairly straightforward. You staffed the ramparts with archers or musketeers and showered the besieging army with arrows and hot lead, following up with pots of boiling oil if necessary.

Today, the historic buildings of Scotland are threatened by an insidious, unseen enemy armed with infinitely WORDS: XXX XXXX more powerful weapons.

Climate change is looming, made evident by

rising sea levels, torrential rain, violent thunderstorms, floods and landslides, and there are limits to what can be done to guard against them.

We are responsible for more than 300 sites of national importance, from Edinburgh Castle to the Neolithic settlement at Skara Brae in Orkney.

Research has shown that almost 90% of them are at risk of damage.

Of equal concern are their contents of over 41,000 objects, ranging from the Stone of Destiny and the Crown of

Scotland to important artworks and a French flag captured at the Battle of Trafalgar. Without a doubt, a large number of these items are priceless and of major cultural significance.

In addition, with many historic sites by or close to the sea, the dangers from coastal erosion are particularly severe, and not all of them may be saved.

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carries on the way it’s going, a lot of these sites will be lost, along with their tangible and intangible heritage, and for future generations they just won’t be there to enjoy.”

The scale of the challenge is enormous. Sea levels in Scotland are rising by more than 3mm a year and Scotland will experience warmer, wetter winters, with more intense rainfall events, while summers will be hotter and drier, with greater extremes.

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It is not all doom and gloom, however.

Faced with these growing threats, we set up a climate action group 10 years ago which has carried out a huge body of research that will help to prepare defences for the future.

Dr Mairi H. Davies, climate change policy manager, says: “There are things that can be done. The historic environment is inherently resilient and if we act now we can adapt to the changing climate. The reality is that a certain amount of climate change is already locked in, so even if we achieved net zero carbon

emissions tomorrow we would still get some change. That’s the nature of the climate system.

“It’s about adaptation really; accepting the climate is changing and adapting to it, anticipating the changes coming, rather than reacting to them when disaster strikes.”

To this end, we published a five-year action plan last year that sets out seven key areas our specialist teams will focus on. Top of the list is further research and monitoring of the effects of climate change on the historic environment, with the aim of helping efforts to adapt to them.

Other priorities are energy efficiency and carbon management to reduce emissions, zero waste through maintenance and recycling, and sustainable tourism to lessen the environmental impact of visits.

These are all themes that we will be promoting at the UN Climate Change Conference (COP26) in Glasgow in November.

“We are working hard with partners to ensure that cultural heritage voices are heard at COP26. In the run-up to the

conference we are planning a programme of activity to highlight everything that Scotland has to offer in terms of its cultural heritage, and how it relates to climate change,” Mairi says.

“We are hoping our message will go beyond the heritage sector to policy makers, and that they understand cultural heritage is not a barrier to achieving net zero but is actually part of the solution.”

As Mairi explains, traditional buildings in Scotland constructed pre-1919 with locally sourced sandstone and slate are inherently energy efficient, and refurbishment can significantly reduce their carbon emissions even further.

In the meantime, efforts are continuing to save them. A retaining wall has been built at Blackness Castle on the Firth of Forth, a popular tourist attraction, to help protect it from flooding and coastal erosion.

Also at risk, Fort George on the Moray Firth, the finest example of 18th-century military engineering in Britain, has had rock armour installed on the exposed, north-facing side in partnership with the army.

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For the past 10 years, we have been laser scanning Skara Brae to help plan against erosion

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Skara Brae, at risk from stormy seas

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CAUTION WITH COLLECTIONS

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Duff House in Banff, which houses a varied collection of fine and decorative art, including paintings from National Galleries Scotland, sits close to a river, which poses a risk of groundwater, coastal and fluvial flooding. This risk is multiplied as we move towards warmer, wetter winters, and more intense rainfall events.

Mairi adds: “Our collections colleagues have been reviewing a salvage plan – how do we ensure if the worst were to happen that we can minimise any damage? One example would be that objects stored on the ground floor are raised up on pallets to reduce the risk of water damage. Preparation is really important, so we have drawn up plans for evacuation if necessary, what route would be taken and where things would be taken.”

Skara Brae, the 5,000-year-old settlement on Orkney, faces mounting peril from stormy seas, barely metres away on the Bay of Skaill. The settlement was discovered in 1850 when a storm stripped back a sand dune that had been concealing it, underlining the vulnerability of the Neolithic remains.

For the past 10 years we have been laser scanning the site to help plan against erosion and sediment accretion.

“The sea wall there was constructed nearly 100 years ago and has been continually repaired, augmented and extended over time,” Mairi says. “It’s done a good job, but we’re now at the stage where that defence itself is being affected by the erosion processes and we need to look at how we manage it for the next 100 years.

“We’re in the process of assessing various options. In the past there has been a tendency to think in terms of hard, concrete defences and that has

Duff House, vulnerable to flooding from the River Deveron

been very successful in many places.

It tends to lead to problems elsewhere, though, because you get the wave energy deflected and sometimes you get erosion somewhere else because of it.

“The trend now is looking towards nature-based solutions, which can be things like recharging the beach, bringing in sand from the vicinity to build up the area again – it’s quite an exciting area, there are a lot of ideas there.”

However, Bonnie Burton points out that there are limits to what can be done.

“It all comes down to time, money and resources. Which sites do we put time and effort into saving, and which ones are just lost to the sea?”

FINDING NET ZERO A key element of our strategy is demonstrating that historic buildings can contribute to the net zero target.

“We have to look at retrofitting existing building stock and there are some basic things you can do to lower

its carbon footprint,” Mairi explains.

“Being careful to use appropriate materials, so you’re working with the building fabrics rather than against them, is important. Quite a lot can be achieved by adding loft insulation and draught proofing to windows and doors, which is quite low cost and successful.

Window shutters on the inside are a traditional feature of buildings in Scotland, and if you can get them working again they’re extremely useful in keeping the heat in. Traditional windows plus shutters are as effective as modern double glazing.

“What we’ve shown is that even with an extraordinarily complex building such as Edinburgh Castle, developed over centuries, you can make significant savings. Five years after refurbishments we had recovered our costs through savings on energy bills.”

The latest figures show that the castle has achieved a 61% reduction in emissions since 2008-9.

Fort George, now fortified against rising sea levels

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Parallel with refurbishment, Mairi says routine maintenance is vital to safeguard historic buildings from the storms and floods to come.

“These traditional buildings can recover; they can be dried out even if the worst happens. But maintenance is absolutely essential to ensure they are wind and watertight in a changing climate. If you can keep your building dry you are most of the way there, and you’re climate ready.”

To this end Ali Davey, project manager for traditional skills and materials, is leading research into different stones and thatch to assess which will perform better than others.

“Global warming is going to make all of our materials work harder,” she says.

“It is even more important for us to get the message out for people to use appropriate traditional materials so that they’re working with the building, letting it breathe, and particularly in selecting the right stone for repairs.”

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The issue of climate change is not new, of course. Historian Dr Nicki Scott, one of our senior cultural resources advisers, says it has happened throughout recorded and unrecorded history. “It’s a

feature of the past. If we go back to the medieval period, there’s talk of growing dates and making wine far further north than we would consider today.

“Later in the 18th and 19th centuries temperatures didn’t get above freezing for months and they were having bonspiel tournaments on the Lake of Menteith and frost fairs in London with the Thames freezing solid. The cyclical nature of climate is well attested. The issue now is that it’s happening at a much faster rate than it ever has in the human past due to human activity.”

Despite our best efforts, some cultural heritage may be lost. Mairi concludes: “The worst-case scenario we’re looking at is that sea levels will rise by a metre or more by the end of this century.

There’s a raised awareness that this is happening. How do we decide what we hold on to and what we let go, and manage the loss of heritage in the coastal zones?”

PhD student Bonnie sums up: “It’s a global climate crisis. If we don’t adapt and react to our environment and change our emissions from fossil fuels we’ll come to a turning point where there’s no going back.

“We are in a critical situation.”

HAZARD WARNING

Our researchers have identified 28 sites with ‘very high’ levels of risk from hazards of climate change. These include:

Inchcolm Abbey The Firth of Forth site is vulnerable to coastal erosion and flooding

Edinburgh Castle, refurbished to reduce its carbon footprint

Stanley Mills The former mill on the Tay is vulnerable to flooding

A key element of our strategy is demonstrating that historic buildings can contribute to the net zero target

Bonawe Historic Iron Furnace Vulnerable to four categories of flooding

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EARLY EVOLUTION Medieval records chronicle extreme weather events

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Archaeological research in 2004 suggests that the first castle at Caerlaverock was replaced with a second, further inland, due to medieval climate change. Further research by the University of Stirling, and co-funded by the Castle Studies Trust, is ongoing to better understand the dating and extent of the climate events.

The first castle was built c.1229 on the coast of the Solway Firth with a harbour. Analysis of algae shows that its moat, earthworks and ditches were suddenly invaded by marine salt and clay.

Huge storms hitting the coast created large gravel ridges, and when the storms ceased the castle was four hundred metres from the coast.

The archaeological evidence corresponds with historical accounts of extreme weather events in northern and western mainland Britain and in Ireland in the late 13th and early 14th centuries.

The Chronicle of Lanercost recorded how in 1282 great floods were caused by the River Nith to such an extent that a partly built church was levelled in

one night. A storm surge in the Solway region in 1292 saw ‘tempestuous winds’ drive the sea ‘beyond its ancient limits to a degree that was beyond all memory of the old men of the land’, destroying crops and livestock.

The second castle was built in c.1277, a couple of hundred metres further

inland and on ground five metres higher.

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The second Caelaverock Castle is thought to have been built further inland to protect it from the elements

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Explore Scotland

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Scotland’s rail network can take you to many of the most beautiful parts of the country – so hop on board and explore these seven fabulous destinations WORDS: JOAN MCFADDEN

Trains across the Forth Bridge carry three million passengers a year

FEATURED PROPERTIES

MELROSE ABBEY

ST ANDREWS CASTLE

ELGIN CATHEDRAL

ABERDOUR CASTLE

HUNTLY CASTLE

GLASGOW CATHEDRAL

DUNBLANE CATHEDRAL

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he journey can be almost as much fun as the destination, which is certainly a feature of the sites highlighted here.

These popular properties are all within easy reach without a car, and provide some fascinating train trips. For up-to-date information or to see if booking is required, check historyawaits.scot, and aim to make a day of it, possibly with the addition of a picnic. Some places are dog friendly, all welcome families and, while history is at the heart of most, there are some great outdoor spaces and adventurous possibilities too.

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Partly ruined monastery with a quirky exterior

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Melrose Abbey was Scotland’s first Cistercian monastery, founded by David I in 1136 as a demonstration of his power and his piety. It suffered at English hands during the Middle Ages, but was rebuilt in the 1380s.

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St Andrews is famous for many things – the Chariots of Fire run along West Sands Beach, being the home of golf, and having the oldest university in Scotland (where Prince William met his future bride). It is also where some of the bones of St Andrew were allegedly laid to rest.

On a headland stands St Andrews Castle, which was first built in the 12th century and has been a bishop’s

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palace, a fortress and a state prison during its 450year history. Along the way it has suffered sieges, storm damage and bombardment

by French ships, so most of it has gone.

It’s still a fascinating visit, however, with siege tunnels dug in 1546 by attackers trying to breach the defences and by defenders to intercept them.

Despite the bloodshed of the past, the modern-day town is lively and welcoming.

This is a magnificent ruin, its exterior decorated with unusual sculptures, such as hobgoblins, cooks with ladles and a bagpipeplaying pig. The abbey is the burial place of Robert the Bruce’s heart, marked with a commemorative

carved stone plaque within the grounds.

This is a visit with everyone in mind. Although the abbey interior is closed at present, the grounds, cloister and museum are open. The grounds are suitable for

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visitors using wheelchairs or with limited mobility.

The graveyard is fascinating with gravestones from the 17th and 18th centuries that list a range of professions.

DESTINATION STATION Tweedbank: A 5-minute bus or taxi ride or a 35-minute walk to the abbey.

DESTINATION STATION Leuchars: 6 miles from the town and serviced by trains from Edinburgh.

Taxi or bus service to the centre of St Andrews.

ELGIN CATHEDRAL

An architectural masterpiece

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Elgin Cathedral has been an impressive landmark against the Moray skyline for nearly 800 years, and practically every local school child can recount the tale of the Wolf of Badenoch, Alexander Stewart, laying waste to Elgin and Forres in 1390.

Stewart’s target was the Bishop of Moray, who had threatened to annul his marriage, which would lose him lands and territories.

Stewart also felt under attack from Thomas Dunbar, who had replaced him as sheriff of Inverness.

DESTINATION STATION Elgin: on the Aberdeen to Inverness line.

15-minute walk to the cathedral.

On your visit to the cathedral, check out the statues inset into the cathedral’s walls, the carvings in the chapter house, and the older stonework in the exhibition rooms, before heading up to the viewing platform for some stunning views.

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Aberdour Castle in Fife vies with Castle Sween to be Scotland’s oldest standing castle. Built in the 1100s, Aberdour served generations of three noble families, including the 4th Earl of Morton who was Regent of Scotland from 1572. He ruled the country for child king James VI, the son of Mary Queen of Scots, whom the earl had opposed and plotted against.

Visitors can enjoy part of the hall-house built in the 1100s and St Fillan’s Church (not HES) next to the castle, an excellent example of a Norman church of the 1100s.

Over time the castle expanded, and visitors can wander through the large

and imposing complex of buildings dating from the 12th to the 17th centuries.

The original painted ceilings in the east range also date from the 1600s, and are decorated with fruit, foliage and heraldic emblems.

The beautiful grounds and fragrant walled gardens date from the 16th century and include four L-shaped terraces and an orchard, as well as a ‘beehive’ dovecot containing around 600 nesting boxes.

DESTINATION STATION Aberdour: on the line between Edinburgh Waverley and Kirkcaldy. 3-minute walk to the castle.

HUNTLY CASTLE

Heraldry and elegance in a noble ruin

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Huntly Castle is in a beautiful setting and stands on the site of a motte and bailey castle built around 1190. Despite James VI having part of the tower house blown up after

suppressing a rebellion in 1594, it retains elaborate heraldry, carved fireplaces and elegant décor. It may be in ruins, but you can still get glimpses of this palatial residence, which was a declaration of the

power and wealth of the noble Gordon family.

The main tower is well preserved, and its stunning frontispiece features a tall, slender arrangement of carvings on worldly and spiritual

themes. On the second floor there are two expansively carved fireplaces and, of the range of service buildings that were within the castle, the best preserved is the brewhouse.

DESTINATION STATION Huntly: on the Aberdeen to Inverness line.

20-minute walk to the castle.

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A stalwart of the city

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Glasgow Cathedral has various names and has been part of many significant moments over the centuries.

Also known as the High Kirk of Glasgow, St Kentigern’s or St Mungo’s Cathedral, it is the oldest cathedral on mainland Scotland, the oldest building in Glasgow, and is allegedly located where the patron saint

of Glasgow, St Mungo, founded his church.

Glasgow Cathedral survived the Reformation virtually intact, so today it is also the most complete medieval cathedral on the Scottish mainland.

James IV ratified the Treaty of Perpetual Peace with England at the cathedral’s high altar on 10 December 1502. Twenty

years after the Reformation, on 22 April 1581, James VI granted the income from a number of lands to Glasgow town for the kirk’s upkeep and the town council agreed on 27 February 1583 to take responsibility for repairing the kirk, ensuring its survival. It lives and breathes history, yet it is also still a place of active Christian worship.

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DESTINATION STATION Glasgow Central: serves the West Coast Main Line and InterCity services to England Glasgow Queen Street: GlasgowEdinburgh, North Clyde and West Highland lines.

20/25-minute walk.

STUNNING STOPS Four must-see listed stations

Wemyss Bay Glass ceilings and steel curves abound in this architectural delight.

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Step aboard a steam train for a 10-mile trip in the Highlands with the Strathspey Railway.

DUNBLANE CATHEDRAL

A thriving church

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Dunblane Cathedral’s tower was built in the early 1100s with other parts added in the 1200s. Now the town’s parish church, the west front is carved in Gothic style creating a grand processional entrance. The luxurious interior furnishings were torn down in the Reformation, though the lovely 15th-century choir stalls survive. For a while only the chancel was used for worship but in 1889 the decayed nave was rebuilt.

The stained glass east window depicts the Biblical Tree of Jesse, and in the north aisle is a 9th-century Celtic cross. The south aisle contains an effigy believed to be Bishop Michael Ochiltree, who officiated at

Edinburgh Waverley History meets the modern day in Scotland’s second largest station.

the coronation of James II, and a memorial to the victims of the 1996 Dunblane Massacre, carved on a slab of Clashach sandstone.

DESTINATION STATION Dunblane: serves trains from Glasgow and Edinburgh to Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen and Inverness.

6/7-minute walk.

Dunrobin Castle This Swiss cottage style station was built by the Duke of Sutherland in 1902 for his guests.

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An extract from A Life of Industry: The Photography of John R. Hume by Daniel Gray

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he rolled down the Clyde, the widest thoroughfare in Glasgow, a fine battleship set for some place else.

Sturdy tug boats serenaded her. It was a cheery summer’s day in 1946, and a boy of seven years old looked on, watching the passage downriver of HMS Vanguard. Young John R. Hume was not alone in his fascination with this ship, this river and indeed this vigorous nation. Down the years, thousands, millions had cared. Inside them, clanking docks echoed and steam hissed away fondly. Yet it was he and no other bystander that would go on to document this version of a country through photography; he that would grow to be the man who preserved industrial Scotland in tens of thousands of images.

Now most of that industrial landscape is lost, a shadowland of folklore and rusty scars beneath moss and bracken.

Some of the photographs Hume took

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Opposite, clockwise from top left Staff with delivery van, Vindanda Laundry, Kirkintilloch, 1971; Cranes, road trailer and locomotive, Govan Goods Station, Glasgow, 1966; MV Orcadia, Papa Westray, Orkney, 1976; Fruitmarket, Candleriggs, Glasgow, 1969; Horse lorry, Fruitmarket, Glasgow, 1965; St Stephen’s Works, St Stephen Street, Edinburgh, 1971

are all that remains of a particular building, the only physical testimony.

Counter intuitively, though, this can still feel like a familiar, tangible era.

‘When a building is removed,’ he says it becomes a memory. For the people who knew it, lived in it, worked in it,

passed it every day, it remains still there until the day they die. Buildings rest in our consciousness. We all have a library of them in our brains. Some of them are there, and some of them are not there, and some of them were gone before we were here; but they’re all part of us.

During his work as an academic and author, his employment by Historic Scotland, and his involvement with various preservation societies, and simply by looking, Hume became Scotland’s leading industrial heritage expert.

Through his employment, endeavours and enthusiasms, between 1964 and the mid-1980s, he captured industrial Scotland via the lens. The result is a meticulous, comprehensive photographic archive of more than 25,000 images now held by us. This book is a portal into that largely unpublished collection and an insight into the man who made it. It chronicles the fading away of another world, altogether grimier than ours, though one that was often loved and

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Window on another world

Industry feature, 1 © HES. REPRODUCED COURTESY OF JOHN R HUME

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Clockwise from top left UCBS Bakery, McNeil Street, Glasgow, 1967; Clydesdale Tube Works, Bellshill, Lanarkshire, 1975; Tannery, Musselburgh, East Lothian, 1978; Locomotive 60034, Balornock Motive Power Depot, Glasgow, 1966; Blair Foundry, Hurlford, 1971 Opposite page Regent billboard, Maryhill Locks, Forth & Clyde Canal, Glasgow, 1967

whose people and creations should be celebrated. Here is a place where dirt beneath the nails was an accolade and not a failing. Hume was obsessive in capturing industries and ways of life before they vanished forever; through the archive and this book, ghosts are awakened and outlines filled. Photographs raise felled buildings and lift to eye-level machinery that was simply too heavy to preserve, too bulky for this world.

Of vital importance to Hume’s life and work was the establishment of industrial archaeology as a credible academic subject in the 1960s. This new 32 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

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area of study asserted the importance of Britain’s industrial past, argued strongly for its documentation and conservation where appropriate, and encouraged its presentation, for example in open air museums. Hume was anxious that industrial archaeology should be treated equally with more traditional fields. He identified, therefore, the need for an extensive photographic record which could be used to demonstrate its importance and make comparative judgements. The moment Hume discovered the discipline of industrial archaeology was, then, seminal; without

it, this collection would not exist, and neither would many of the buildings that Hume and colleagues went on to preserve and award statutory protection.

A nod to the heyday In these photographs of industrial Scotland’s last years and decline we can trace, conversely, its origins and heyday.

Most of these buildings, much of this machinery and many of the workers look as they would have done at the turn of the twentieth century. Here was an established way of life, narrated by ‘hooters’, hammers and tongs, and

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In these photographs of industrial Scotland’s last years and decline we can trace, conversely, its origins and heyday illustrated by sparks, flames and white hot metal. Once steam technology had advanced sufficiently to power mines, mills, ships and locomotives, Scotland was set for a century. We may even sense the vapours of an earlier time, not least the first period of the Industrial Revolution with its mix of agricultural work and small, provisional industry; while many of these photographs are of colossal urban factories, there are, too, rural mills and homespun foundries.

For the most part, however, the photographs are of a world established during the Victorian era of the Industrial

Revolution, matured in the shipbuilding, steel and coal production boom before the First World War, and subject to the whims of conflict and financial markets afterwards. Omnipresent is the whiff of decline and the passing of an age.

While many buildings faded naturally, some of that passing was forced. Hume was operating in a time that savaged the old and acclaimed the new, as he explains: After the second World War, when Labour came to power, there was a real wish to move away from tradition and to create a new Modernist world with Modernist houses, schools and churches,

and Modernist transport facilities.

Victorian was seen as bad, and linked to what Labour saw as the exploitation of the working-classes by the bourgeoisie.

That wasn’t true, but it was a good myth, and good myths are powerful.

Consequently, Hume set about documenting individual buildings that were to be wrecked, such as railway stations. Further, he photographed the targets of demolition programmes, for example the factories, tenements and warehouses that succumbed to Glasgow’s M8 motorway. Viewed now by those who know that city, they add HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 33

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Clockwise from top left Inchcoonans Tile Works, Errol, Perthshire, 1977; Tate & Lyle Sugar Refinery, Greenock, Renfrewshire, 1975; Polmaise Colliery, Fallin, Stirlingshire, 1974; No.2 blast furnace, Clyde Ironworks, Glasgow, 1978

weight to his assertion that: You cannot understand the present unless you understand the past. The present is a moment in time, the past is amazing, a rich tapestry of things, some of which are a couple of days ago, some of which are thousands of years ago. You cannot think about the present without thinking of the past…. If you take the time to learn, it makes what’s around you more meaningful. I think you’re culturally deprived if you don’t learn about the past.

While not every building or indeed photograph in this book could be classed as explicitly ‘industrial’, each at the very least was a function or consequence of Scotland’s industry, or perhaps something that was part of the day-today life of an industrial worker, such as a pub or shop. This reflects Hume’s own maxim that: The most interesting work is likely to occur between, rather than in the centre, of subject areas. On the edges of things are the really important stories.

If you take the time to learn, it makes what’s around you more meaningful Many of the structures he photographed were monumental: vast barns of toil, grease and cacophony. Yet people featured regularly or were only a few footsteps away – those compelling stories, on the margins of focus. Many of them were, like their workplaces, from another time altogether: people who had lived through the Great Depression or fought in the Second World War. If humanity provided the heartbeat of these images, then so too was it a motivation for Hume’s entire life and work. The cause of industrial archaeology mattered tremendously to him, as did survey work, teaching, writing, researching and conservation.

Yet equal was a desire to show what

buildings meant to people, and vice versa, and heartfelt affection for the landscapes he charted: I was well aware that some of these things would disappear. I wanted to build a narrative of the environment which I loved. And it was all about love, really. A love of buildings, not just as objects, but because they are a part of life.

Hume was keen for this affection for industrial Scotland to be communicated in an accessible manner. Employed for a long while in academia, he was deeply conscious of intellectual bluster and exclusionary language. His wish was that subjects be opened up to everyone.

A Life of Industry: The Photography of John R. Hume is published by Historic Environment Scotland and is available to purchase from historicenvironment.scot/ a-life-of-industry for £20. Members can enjoy a 20% discount. See page 55 for discount code.

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Some of our sites have had to close recently due to essential site inspections, and we realise the inconvenience this may have caused.

As a gesture of appreciation to those continuing their Historic

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Estate surveyor Sandy Lightbody sets out on a cycle route from coast to coast, taking in historic landmarks along the way

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Cycling feature, 1 On the way from coast to coast: Bowling Harbour

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line drawn from Blackness Castle on the east coast of Scotland to Dumbarton Castle in the west roughly represents Scotland’s ‘waist’.

Our country is only 25 miles wide between the estuaries of the rivers Clyde and Forth so unsurprisingly the invading Romans in c.AD 142 found this a convenient place along which to string the defensive Antonine Wall.

As the agricultural revolution segued into the industrial revolution, Scotland was traversed by another technological marvel in 1790, when the Forth & Clyde Canal was used as a testing ground for the world’s first steamships. Barely 50 years later, steam railways snaked across Scotland, eventually rendering our canals largely obsolete.

A new revolution is upon us today – the ‘Cycling Revolution’. Recent statistics have shown a 47% increase in the number of people cycling in Scotland between March 2020 and 2021.

There are few better ways to get fit and at the same time get your ‘history fix’. Greater distances are possible than even the keenest walker can manage, there are no major car parking issues,

and it is easy to stop at many points en route to take in historic gems. Electric bikes have also improved massively, so now there really is no good reason not to ‘get on your bike’!

It is no coincidence that many of our country’s cycle tracks run parallel to many of our rich and varied historical sites. Our cycleways largely follow the routes of redundant canals and railway

West on Scotland’s ‘waist’: Dumbarton Rock

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The Necropolis: the east end of Glasgow’s very own ‘City of the Dead’

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lines. These quiet paths and tracks were originally bustling, noisy conduits for travel and trade across a very hostile landscape, and linked many sites of influence – so forts, castles, palaces, grand country houses and of course cities are strung out along the length of, in our example, the Forth & Clyde and Union canals.

The route described here roughly follows the line of the UNESCO World Heritage Site the Antonine Wall, spanning Old Kilpatrick on the west coast to Bo’ness on the east side of the country. In a relatively ‘short-hop’ of less than 50 miles, we will be transported back in time. Our story includes mythical kings and wizards, tragic The Riverside Museum showcases transport memorabilia from around the world

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Dumbarton Rock also has links to the Arthurian legend. The wizard Merlin is reputed to have visited in the 6th century. Possibly this was Arthur’s own Merlin, or even his latter day counterpart Myrddin Wyllt, who reputedly lived between 540 and 584.

It is thought that William Wallace was brought to Dumbarton Castle in 1305, en route to execution in London. Mary Queen of Scots, aged five, left Scotland for France for her Our cycle route takes own protection in in such landmarks as 1548. Dumbarton Glasgow Cathedral Castle, being sovereigns and situated on the all manner of west coast, other intrigue. provided something of a Let’s go! ‘back door’ from Let’s start at the and into the very beginning, or country. close to it: Dumbarton Rock rises more The castle fortifications were than 240 feet (over 70m) and provides enhanced in the 17th century and superb views over the Clyde Estuary. improved over the Napoleonic period.

Estimated to have formed some 340 The rock displays fine examples of early million years ago, it lends itself perfectly 18th-century military architecture, and to fortification and has been besieged the Georgian Governor’s House. many times. The rock has the longest Our journey properly commences recorded history of any fortification in now, following the National Cycle Scotland, from at least 1,500 years ago, Route 7 (NCR 7). After three miles, and is still a commanding presence we arrive at Bowling Harbour, the over the Clyde Estuary. most western entry point to the Forth

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Bar Hill Roman Fort; the Falkirk Wheel; Forth & Clyde Canal; Titan Clydebank, aka the Titan Crane

& Clyde Canal. Built in 1790, it became possible to cross the land mass of Scotland by waterway.

A short run of half a mile brings us to Old Kilpatrick. We can rest under the shadow of the massive Erskine Bridge (built in 1967) and ponder that we are standing at the western end of the Antonine Wall, stretching some 39 miles to the east.

SHUTTERSTOCK

Going to Glasgow We remain on NCR 7 for approximately 9 miles into Glasgow City Centre, enjoying numerous attractions, principally of a maritime and shipbuilding nature. The Titan Crane Experience at Clydebank tips a nod to Glasgow and Scotland’s heavy engineering past. We pass the awardwinning Riverside Museum, including the ‘Tall Ship’, a refurbished sailing cargo ship from 1896.

The Turbine Steamer Queen Mary is currently berthed on the other side of the river, next to the Glasgow Science Centre, where the PS Waverley, the

world’s last sea-going paddle steamer is also berthed. There are still some surviving old dockyard buildings and relics from the days when Glasgow and the west of Scotland provided one fifth of the world’s ships.

So, after approximately 12 miles of pedalling from our starting point in Dumbarton, all of Glasgow beckons.

A traveller with an interest in history could happily spend a week – or a lifetime – in Scotland’s largest city.

Following the NC7 route along the banks of the Clyde, we arrive at Glasgow Cross. The Tolbooth Steeple was erected in 1626 and marks the intersection of Glasgow’s five principal roads. It is also where public executions and proclamations once took place.

A short distance up High Street, Glasgow Cathedral, built in the 1100s, occupies the spot where the patron saint of Glasgow, St Mungo, allegedly built his church. Glasgow has too many attractions to list here but a visit to the adjacent Necropolis or ‘City of the Dead’ is certainly worthwhile. Originating from 1832, it is accessed over the Bridge of Sighs, a sign of the way that the city’s Victorian merchants displayed their immense wealth even after death.

Taking up NCR 754, we wind our way through Glasgow’s west end and north side and as the sky and the scenery open out, we re-join the route of the Forth & Clyde Canal. Look out for wildlife as well as the many attractive and colourful barges and canal boats.

A traveller with an interest in history could spend a week – or a lifetime – in Scotland’s largest city

Wonder wall We are once again now closely following the line of our UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Antonine Wall, originally a turf structure upon a stone foundation, with a defensive ditch along most of its length. We look after sections of this HISTORICENVIRONMENT.SCOT 39

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hugely significant piece of Roman Looking across Linlithgow Loch culture and we have developed an app to the palace for it – check out the iOS app store or and church Android store to download.

Highlights of the wall include the well-preserved Roman Bathhouse at Bearsden, and the remains of the fort at Rough Castle, near Falkirk. The site of the Bar Hill Fort, close to the colourful Auchinstarry Marina, has few surviving structural remains. Its hilltop location provides superb views of the area and gives an impression of how the Romans would ideally site their defensive forts – over a dozen were situated along the wall.

After approximately 35 miles, the NCR 754 leads us to the Falkirk Wheel. At this point, we can continue along the Forth & Clyde Canal to the Kelpies at Grangemouth, where the canal empties into the Forth.

Alternatively, you can pedal The Avon Aqueduct: 90 feet high and rising Blackness Castle: Scottish star of film and television up to the higher-level Union Homeward bound Canal. Linlithgow is 11 miles to the east From Linlithgow the hilly A706 road If you have followed the route suggested and the traveller is taken through some takes the traveller into Bo’ness, which in this article, you will have covered quite fantastic canal tunnels – very dark has a superb steam railway, the almost 55 miles from Dumbarton to with water dripping through from the refurbished Hippodrome Theatre, built Bo’ness. You will also have time ground above. We also cross the in 1911, and the Bo’ness Motor Museum. travelled through history: make spectacular Avon Aqueduct, although at Bo’ness also marks the eastern sure to to take enough time to almost 90 feet high it’s not for the faintend of the Antonine Wall. There was hearted! These features highlight the fact a Roman fort at Carriden, and there have properly appreciate your journey!

The key is to tackle the route at your that we are now on a ‘contour canal’ been many significant finds of Roman own pace and perhaps do it in sections. which has no lock system, but rather a artefacts, some with inscriptions, There are numerous possible diversions. series of cuttings and aqueducts. discovered in the eastern part of the If there is any life left in your legs, a Linlithgow, birthplace of Mary town at Carriden. short path of approximately 2.5 miles Queen of Scots, is one of our gems. leads from Bo’ness to Blackness A royal residence has existed here Castle, setting for scenes from the from the 12th century. Because television series Outlander and the palace was a principal royal another of our gems. residence, it forms an attractive and Nothing, however, should be set in appropriate setting for many of our stone. We are all able to make up and events, including our popular plan our own ‘cycles through history’.

Jousting Tournaments.

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If you follow our suggested cycling route, you will cover almost 55 miles from Dumbarton to Bo’ness

ADVICE FOR CYCLISTS ● While the whole route can be cycled in a single day, that won’t leave much time to appreciate the wealth of history you’ll see along the way. ● Take a train to one of the many railway

10km

stations along the route and begin there. There are plenty of places to park a car too. ● Always wear a helmet and ride safely, and with consideration for others.

The Kelpies Dumbarton Castle Old Kilpatrick Bowling Harbour

Falkirk Wheel

Blackness Castle Bo’ness

Linlithgow Palace

Glasgow Cathedral

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WHEELS OF TIME

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WEALTH, POWER AND AUTHORITY

Women are often missing from our written history – but through archaeology and other research, historians are filling in the gaps WORDS: MORVERN FRENCH

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Caelaverock Castle near Dumfries

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istorians are always rewriting history, building on and improving previous work. As we know, women often held much less power than men did and so their words and actions weren’t recorded to the same extent.

In the absence of written evidence, both by and about women, archaeology can tell us a great deal. Surviving objects and human remains offer insights into women’s daily lives and relationships, their status in their communities, and what was important to them.

It’s vital that we understand the complexity of women’s lives, whether that’s individuals such as Frances Dalzell, who connects Duff House to the international slave trade, or Viking women who lived and died in Orkney. These stories paint a richly varied picture of women in history, from the morally dubious to the inspirational, and everything inbetween.

New discoveries about our past emerge often, and our understanding of the lives of women – and all people – is likely to keep growing for a very long time.

Love and family Artefacts at Caerlaverock Castle give insight into marriage and pregnancy

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ecent research into the collections of Caerlaverock Castle offers clues into the personal relationships of the women who lived there. Two late medieval wooden combs may have been given as love tokens, exchanged between romantically involved people. Hair – and the combs used to groom it – were tied to ideas of beauty, romance and sexuality, and were commonly given by husbands to wives when they married.

One of the combs is undecorated, but the other is carved with hearts and initials: ‘r o’ and ‘m o’ or ‘n o’. Could this lettering have meant something personal to the giver or the receiver? Might this comb have been used by

one of the Lady Maxwells who lived at Caerlaverock in the 15th century?

During pregnancy and childbirth, the lady would have been confined to a private, women-only birth chamber, where the comb may have reminded her of her husband.

Another object which may have been precious at a time of pregnancy and birth is a brass jeton, or counting token, from the early 16th century. One side depicts the Virgin and Child. As the mother of Jesus, the Virgin Mary was believed to be a powerful protector of expectant women, who understandably feared the dangers of pregnancy and childbirth in an age before modern medicine. A Caerlaverock woman may have used the jeton as a charm or amulet, praying to the Virgin for protection and the safe delivery of a healthy child.

Medieval comb and, above, a brass jeton

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A violent marriage

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Newark Castle, a luxurious but unhappy home

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Lady Margaret Crawford, often in ‘hazard of her lyffe’

isitors to Newark Castle in the 1630s would have admired this residence of Sir Patrick Maxwell and his wife, Lady Margaret Crawford.

In the 1590s Maxwell added luxurious Renaissance accommodation, a gallery, and a hall.

However, the castle was the scene of violent abuse suffered by Margaret at Patrick’s hands. In 1636 she complained to the privy council that, despite having been married for 44 years and having had 16 children together, four years earlier he had begun to display ‘unnaturall and undewtifull cariage towards her’.

Newark Castle, Port Glasgow

On one occasion he ‘strake [her] with his faldit neiffes [fists] upon the face, to the effusion of her blood and hazard of her lyffe’ before confining her to her chamber for half a year.

Her only allies, her son Alexander and his wife Annas, were thrown out of the castle, Patrick wanting

‘to depryve her of thair companie and to make her wearie of her lyffe and abode’. Eventually Margaret escaped to Dumbarton. Her complaint to the privy council did not give her the justice she deserved. Patrick cited ‘his great age, his debilitie, weaknes and infirmitie’, and he died shortly afterwards.

Christina Bruce helps Kildrummy Castle hold out

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n 1335, during the Second War of Independence (13321357), Christina Bruce was holding Kildrummy Castle with 300 men when they were besieged by David Strathbogie, a

disinherited noble seeking to reclaim his lands with the support of Edward III. Christina, however, was up to the challenge, as an aristocratic woman knowledgeable about warfare and experienced in managing people and resources. She is recorded as having ‘Maid stout and

manly resistens, / And wichtly [bravely] set for hir defens’, sending her men out to skirmish with the attackers. When Christina’s husband, Andrew Murray, heard of the siege, he quickly rode to his wife’s aid, defeating Strathbogie in battle.

For a time, the Bruce fortunes were on the rise and Edward III negotiated for a truce, and part of the credit for this turnaround should go to Christina.

She continued to hold Kildrummy until at least 1342, and after her death in 1357 she was buried in Dunfermline Abbey.

Stone wall and ruins of Kildrummy Castle

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A brave defence

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Profiting from enslavement The Duff family welcomes a woman of colour

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In 1757 Frances Dalzell married George Duff, the third son of Jean Grant and William, 1st earl Fife, for whom the grand classical mansion Duff House was built. This marriage connected the Duff family with the transatlantic slave trade.

Frances’s father was Gibson Dalzell, the owner of the Lucky Hill plantation in Jamaica, which produced sugar and rum. Her mother was Susanna Augier, born enslaved as the daughter of

A grand classical mansion

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slave owner John Augier, who freed her in his will.

From a previous partner Susanna inherited a life interest in a significant amount of land in Jamaica, some of which, in Saint Andrew, was worked by 80 enslaved people.

Shortly before her marriage Frances inherited half of her father Gibson’s property in Jamaica and in 1738 the Jamaican legislature granted Susanna and Frances ‘the same Rights and Privileges [as] English Subjects born of White Parents’.

Some four years later, new legislation made it much harder for free people of colour in Jamaica to attain these rights. Frances’s wealth was, no doubt, an attraction to George, and it enabled a woman of colour to marry into the aristocracy of Britain.

Opulence on show inside Duff House

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“Appearing to rise out of the water; mists rested upon the mountain side” – Dorothy Wordsworth on Kilchurn Castle

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Early travel writers

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Historic sites inspire pioneering authors

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arah Murray and Dorothy Wordsworth were among the first writers to travel extensively around Scotland as tourists.

Murray travelled from London in 1796 and spent five months touring by carriage with a maid and a manservant, afterwards

publishing one of the first guidebooks in English.

Wordsworth visited from the Lake District in 1803, with her poet brother William, and again in 1822, and her journals were later published.

Murray described how, ‘I took great pains to see every thing worth seeing’, including many of the historic properties that are now in our care.

Dorothy Wordsworth

Wordsworth recorded in her journals romantic impressions of such places as Kilchurn Castle, writing that ‘the castle was wild, yet stately, not dismantled of its turrets, nor the walls broken down, though completely in ruin.’

The travel literature of these two women can tell us a lot about the interests and ambitions of middle class women 200 years ago.

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Simpson and colleagues at the 1929 Skara Brae excavation (left) and the site today

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Neolithic houses uncovered on Skara Brae settlement

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he visitors to many of the monuments in our care have benefited from archaeological and historical research undertaken by women scholars.

Just one example is Margaret Simpson, an

experienced and respected prehistoric archaeologist, who in the 1920s and 1930s wrote or co-wrote several guide books for the Ministry of Works (MoW), a predecessor of Historic Environment Scotland.

In 1929 Simpson participated in the excavation of Skara Brae,

monuments of Clava Cairns, following in the footsteps of Christian MacLagan, another female archaeologist who had published a survey of the site in 1875.

Although Simpson stopped working after she got married in 1941, she blazed a trail as the first professional female archaeologist in Scotland.

east or north-east of the island of Ireland.

The Viking period is characterised as one of considerable migration and interaction with local cultures, and this woman was an active participant, migrating a considerable distance and then being buried at a site of earlier, pre-Viking importance.

The Iron Age Broch of Gurness was still considered a significant site at the time of the Viking woman’s burial

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clearing and conserving the site so that future visitors could see the amazingly preserved Neolithic houses surviving beneath.

The following year she became Assistant Inspector of Ancient Monuments in the MoW. In this role she supervised a season of archaeology and restoration at the Bronze Age burial

A Viking burial Bones of a woman found at the Broch of Gurness

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he Broch of Gurness, a tower built in the Iron Age at least two thousand years ago, is a uniquely Scottish form of structure. More than fifty have been identified in Orkney. During excavations at the broch in 1939,

archaeologists found the grave of a woman who had died during the Viking period of Orkney’s history, in around AD 850 to 950.

Recent isotopic analysis of the bones, by Professor Janet Montgomery at Durham University, has shown that the woman grew up in either southeast England or in the

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EXCITING ACTIVITIES ACROSS SCOTLAND

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Festive fancies at Edinburgh and Stirling Castles

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Restaurant/café

Reasonable wheelchair access

Picnic area

Dogs not permitted (except assistance dogs)

Christmas crackers Enjoy a sight and sound sensation, spooky tales and much more For further information visit historicenvironment.scot/events

Festive Feasting

Christmas Lunches EDINBURGH CASTLE

Thu 9–Sat 11 and Thu 16–Sat 18 Dec; service at 12pm, 12.30pm and 1pm Adults £45 (members £40), children £25 (members £22.50) 0131 210 0338 edinburghcastle.scot/festive

Christmas Afternoon Teas EDINBURGH CASTLE

Fri 3–Wed 8, Sun 12–Wed 15 and Sun 19–Wed 22 Dec; service at 1pm, 1.30pm and 2pm £29, £34.50 with prosecco or gin; (members £22.50, £28 with prosecco or gin); includes admission to castle 0131 210 0338 edinburghcastle.scot/festive Stirling Castle Fri 3–Sun 5 and Fri 10–Sun 12 Dec; service at 1.30pm £29, £34.50 with prosecco or gin; (members £22.50, £28 with prosecco or gin); includes admission to castle 01786 469491 stirlingcastle.scot/festive Make this Christmas go down in history as you join us to celebrate at Stirling and Edinburgh Castles. Our delicious afternoon teas and opulent lunches are the perfect way to kick-start the season.

SEPTEMBER

The MacKinnon Collection DUFF HOUSE

Fri 17 Sep–Sun 28 Nov; Fri–Sun, 10am–4pm Book online 01261 818 181 historicenvironment. scot/events An exceptional collection of historic photographs capturing a century of life in Scotland will be showcased in a touring exhibition.

The BBC described the collection as “one of the most significant in decades”.

historicenvironment. scot/events Discover the darker side of Trinity House’s maritime history with our resident storyteller.

This unique experience includes a twilight tour of the house and the 16th-century vaults.

NOVEMBER

Castle of Light EDINBURGH CASTLE

From Fri 19 Nov Book online For details, see p6.

DECEMBER

Traditional Christmas

OCTOBER

TRINITY HOUSE

Halloween Tales TRINITY HOUSE

Thu 28–Fri 29 Oct; 4.30-6pm (for families), 7-8.30pm (for ages 12+ only), £5 per person, 10% member discount Book online 0131 554 3289

Fri 10 Dec; 2-3pm, 4-5pm, £5 per person, free for members Book online 0131 554 3289 historicenvironment. scot/events Hear stories of Christmas past as we

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celebrate the festive season.

There’s plenty of festive fun for all the family, with craft activities available.

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Fri 17 Dec–Sun 27 Feb; Fri–Sun, 10am–4pm

Book online 01261 818 181 historicenvironment. scot/events

Light Waves ONLINE

An exhibition of the work of Moraybased abstract artist Toni Harrower, which showcases painting as a response to poetry and shows how we can communicate in different forms.

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Sun 17 Oct As part of Year of Coasts and Waters 20/21, we are delighted to present a special online event.

We are lighting up Scotland with a short film, set against the backdrop of historic locations and featuring dramatic projections to showcase the heritage and traditions of Scotland’s coasts and waters.

Produced by Double Take

There’s lots to see in Holyrood Park

Projections, the film’s soundtrack is by the Scottish band Niteworks and is narrated by three Scottish poets: Colin Bramwell, Peter Mackay and Roseanne Watt.

You will be able to watch the pre-recorded short film on Facebook and YouTube. There is no need to book and the film is free to watch.

Light Waves 2021

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Ranger Events HOLYROOD PARK, LINLITHGOW PALACE

Various dates and times Most events are free but booking is essential 0131 652 8150 historic environment.scot/ ranger-service Enjoy the great outdoors with our Rangers as you discover the stories, history and wildlife of Holyrood Park

Parking

Toilets

and Linlithgow Peel.

We are delighted our Rangers programme is back and you can join us for some exciting activities, including Halloween and festive-themed walks. Don’t miss Saints and Sinners Halloween Special on Sunday 31 October and Festive Arthur’s Secrets on Wednesday 29 December, both at Holyrood Park.

Gift shop

Restaurant/café

Reasonable wheelchair access

Picnic area

Dogs not permitted (except assistance dogs)

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COME COORIE IN THIS AUTUMN...

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Our Coorie range has been sourced from much-loved Scottish suppliers

Snuggle up, relax and indulge yourself and find a deep sense of happiness and wellbeing

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Our range of products embrace all things Scottish to give you that ‘coorie’ feeling! Indulge yourself with throws and blankets from Edinburghbased The Tartan Blanket Co, soaps and lotions from Highland Soap Co and tasty treats from Scottish chocolatier Quirky Chocolate.

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1 Herringbone blankets £45 2 The Art of Coorie £14.99 3 Chocolate bars £5 each 4 Whisky and honey hand wash CARLO PALONI

£8.50

5 Whisky and honey hand and body lotion £12 6 Whisky and honey handmade soap £4 54 HISTORIC SCOTLAND

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Retail

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Keep cosy

Wrap it up like Jackie O or express your style like Frida Kahlo!

The scarf is an understated fashion accessory with endless ways to be styled

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“The scarf was one of the first pieces of clothing to be invented – from the ancient Egyptians to the Romans, people have been draping scarves around themselves since the concept of fashion came into being. The scarf transcends trends and crosses cultures,” according to The Art of the Scarf, illustrated

by Libby Vanderploeg.

Scottish companies such as Lochcarron of Scotland and Johnstons of Elgin continue to add to Scotland’s rich textile history. Browse our online shop for a large selection of clan scarves in lambswool and cashmere, as well as fashion snoods and painted silk scarves by Scottish designer Mairi Helena.

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1 Printed Silk Scarf £115 2 The Art of the Scarf

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£9.99 3 How to Tie a Scarf £9.99 4 Lilac tartan scarf £78 5 Zig zag pattern scarf £52 6 Scarf ring from £16

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SPEND Members receive a 20% discount by using & SAVE the code MEMBER21 at the checkout

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Time trip

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The 175th Brownies dook for apples at Halloween, 1968

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Caroline Baird and Malcolm Struthers dressed up for their Balbardie Primary School Halloween party, Bathgate, 1983

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Three guisers warming their hands over a Halloween lantern made from a hollowed out turnip, 1952

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Here’s dookin’ at you, kid Halloween traditions and customs, Scotland is famous for its spooky history of guising, a shortened word for ‘disguising’, where children would dress up in homemade costumes and tell a joke or perform songs to their neighbours in exchange for sweets. They would also

make tumshie lanterns out of swedes or turnips to ward off evil spirits, and would ‘dook’ for apples by ducking their heads into a basin of water to retrieve apples.

See scran.ac.uk/scranalogue/ 2020/09/24/halloween-inscotland/ for more

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WHAT/WHO IS IT? As the final day of the old Celtic calendar, Halloween, originally known as the festival of Samhain, marked the end of summer, when the dead were believed to return to walk among the living.

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