Complete Freelance Makeup Certificate Toolkit
Beginners Makeup Certificate Toolkit Designed by Dezine Koncepts Ltd. 2012
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"Makeup is a skill that once learned can never be taken away from you. Since the beginning of time women have found it necessary to enhance their appearance and this won't ever change. In a world of changing fortunes it is a 'smart' move to acquire a set of skills that people will always require"
Funmi Odegbami Director of MiNK London
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Course Outline 1 2 3
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Beginners Makeup Bridal Hair & Makeup Advanced Makeup Beginners Hairstyling Airbrush Makeup The business of makeup After Care and Useful information WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Beginners Makeup
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1. Getting Started
A. Introduction B. Your Health, Your Safety C. Studio Rules
D. Dress Code E. Makeup Artistry F. History of Makeup G. The Makeup Kit H. Sterilization and Hygiene
I. Contra-Indications J. Skin and Skin Care WWW.THISISMINK.COM K. Colour Theory
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Introduction
About MINK • MiNK London is the UKs leading makeup and beauty brand for people of colour! Our services and makeup courses are suitable for Black, Latino, Indian, Mediterranean, Mixed and White skin tones. • The company runs a private makeup school, a makeup agency and a produces large scale makeup events • The private makeup school specialises in short, comprehensive makeup programmes • The makeup agency provides makeup services for magazines, TV/film, catwalk, stage, weddings and more • The makeup events are facilitated by some of the world’s greatest makeup professionals and aim to provide attendees with the very best makeup resources. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Introduction Aim of the Beginner’s Makeup Certificate: • Give a full understanding of everything you need to know when starting out in makeup artistry • Step-by-step instruction and a range of activities to encourage you and develop your confidence • Help you to develop an ‘artistic eye’ • Teach you how to run a successful makeup business • Help you to develop a library of useful information • Accredited course that will assure prospective clients that you have received the highest standard of training available. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Introduction Student objectives What do you want out of this course?
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Makeup Artistry
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Makeup Artistry
• A career in makeup artistry is based around the design and application of cosmetics • The term ‘cosmetics’ or ‘cosmetology’ arises from the Greek word kosmeetin, which means to decorate • The use of cosmetics has always been part of human life: humans in primitive societies used natural pigments from the earth to create ‘cosmetics’ that were applied to the body as a form of decoration and were often used as part of rituals and ceremonies. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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History of makeup
• C. 500,000 B.C.E. Cave dwellers in Africa and South America cover their bodies with mud applied in decorative patterns. The mud also functions as an insect repellent • C. 3000 B.C.E. Egyptians use more than thirty different types of cosmetics balms and ointments made from ingredients such as beeswax, vegetable oil, and animal fat. Moisturisers are considered so essential, they are routinely distributed to workers and farmers Egyptian women have elaborate makeup chests, equipment and products. They give themselves egg white facials, use complexion cream and apply perfumed oils. Women paint their faces with a (deadly) powder made from lead carbonate and water. Nails are painted with henna, and lipsticks are available in several orange-based shades WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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History of makeup • C. 2000 B.C.E. An Egyptian papyrus includes formulas for removing wrinkles, pimples, age spots and other blemishes. Once mixture includes bullocks bile. Egyptians who want to get rid of wrinkles are told to apply a mixture of incense, olive oil, crushed cyperus and wax to the face and to leave it on for six days Overseers stop all work on the pyramids until makeup supplies (kohl, green malachite, and galena) that help to protect the eyes of workers from the sun are delivered • C. 2500 B.C.E. Sumerians invent the first tweezers to get rid of unwanted hair and use a flat bone to push back cuticles • C. 1800 B.C.E Gold dust is used by Babylonian men to powder their hair. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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The Makeup Kit
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The Makeup Kit
Using the right makeup tools is essential. It can make the difference between looking unpolished and looking fabulous • Mirrors – mistakes become glaringly obvious in the mirror • Lighting – lighting will affect how you view the makeup • Pencils – Pencils are available in soft and hard textures and a variety of sizes • Eyelash curlers • Tweezers • Palettes • Foundations WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Skin and Skincare
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Skin • Beauty starts with smooth, healthy, glowing skin • The skin is a very important organ to a makeup artist. It is the canvas on which they work. An understanding of the structure and functions of the skin is essential for carrying out makeup procedures safely and effectively • The skin is composed of three layers: a deep layer called the hypodermis, a middle layer called the dermis and a surface layer called the epidermis • The epidermis gives immediate, visual clues to the condition of the skin, while the dermis determines how the skin responds and changes with age. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Skin Care • As a makeup artist you should ensure you are up to date with new skin care products on the market • Try out products from a vast number of ranges until you find a selection that you would like to include in your kit • It may be impractical to carry a number of products for each of the individual skin types; you may prefer to choose products that are suitable for use on a range of skin types. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Colour theory
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Colour theory
• As a makeup artist it is important to understand the principles of colour theory • There are three basic colours – red, yellow and blue. All other colours are combinations of these three • Mixing all three primary colours together in equal quantities will create a neutral colour, resembling very dark grey • If you change the proportion of each primary colour in the mix, a variety of neutral tones can be achieved • Mixing equal amounts of two of the primary colours creates the secondary colours e.g. Yellow + blue = green • Tertiary colours are achieved by mixing a secondary colour and a primary colour in equal amounts e.g. Blueviolet, yellow-green. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Mastering Faces
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2. Mastering Faces A. Face B. Foundation C. Concealer D. Contouring and highlighting E. Powder F. Blusher G. Bronzer and self-tanner
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Face
• Makeup is all about the foundation! • The right foundation will make your model look like they’re not wearing any foundation at all • Foundation – Protects against bacteria and impurities – Evens out skin tone – Improves skin texture for a flawless, smooth finish; blushers and other makeup glide on easier and cling better to foundation – Kills or decreases sallow skin (a greenish-yellowish or ashy cast) – Creates a natural-looking healthy glow to the skin
• When choosing foundation the following should be taken into account, colour, texture and coverage. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Contouring & highlighting
• Contouring techniques are employed to balance the face shape and to enhance features • Contouring makeup means using the art of chiaroscuro (painting with light and shade) to create the illusion of reshaping and sculpting the face and features • When applying shadows and highlights to the skin it is important to ensure there is a significant tonal difference between them and the base colour, otherwise they will be lost. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Mastering Eyes
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3. Mastering Eyes Started A. Proper eye care B. Eyebrows C. Eye shapes D. Eye Shadow E. Eyeliner F. Eyelashes G. Smoky Eyes
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Proper Eye Care
• Using a gentle and effective eye makeup remover is vital • Use oil-free eye makeup removers • Apply remover to a cotton pad and press gently onto closed eyelids • Let the product soak into the skin, then gently swipe the cotton pad over the eyelids • Start from the inner corner and work you way to the outer corner of the eye • Repeat as necessary using clean cotton pads • Use cotton swaps for the hard-to-reach areas, such as under the eyes, along lash line and the inner corners
• Sharpen all eye pencils to remove any remnants of use eyeliner from previous use. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
Proper Eye Care Eyes are sensitive and prone to infection. A few simple precautions will help guard against any problems: • Only use cosmetics and skin care products that are designed for the eyes • Avoid touching eyes with hands and wash hands often • Keep all cosmetics clean and replace caps whenever possible • Don’t double-dip disposable mascara wands • For twist pencils, break off the tip or roll on clean tissues until several of the outer layers have been removed • Use a cotton swab, disposable sponge or facial tissue to wipe off the top layer. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyebrows
Anatomy of an eyebrow
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Eye shapes
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Smoky Eye
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Mastering Lips
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4. Mastering Lips A. Lips B. Products C. Colour and application D. Changing the natural lip line E. Lip styles
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Lips
• Applying lip colour is one of the simplest of all makeup steps and is a great way to instantly change a look • Lip colour will enhance the lips and complete the makeup by adding harmony and balance • The right shade works with the skin tone and complements the natural colour of the lips. Lip colour finish
Description
Matte
A sophisticated finish. Look for a creamy matt texture as some matte formulas are very dry
Sheer
Lets the natural colour show through. A transparent stain
Glossy
Very versatile. Can look sexy or very natural, depending on colour. Can create appearance of fuller lips
Frosted
Dramatic and three-dimensional WWW.THISISMINK.COM
–6 Putting it all together
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6. Special Makeup Considerations A. Over 40s B. Black Beauty C. Freckled Beauty D. Porcelain Beauty E. Asian Beauty F. Middle Eastern Beauty G. Latin Beauty
H. Male Grooming WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Over 40s
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Over 40s
When applying makeup to mature skin it is important to be very gentle and to avoid dragging the skin tissue. Factors influencing makeup for mature skin
Sagging contours
Loss of natural colour in the lips, face & hair
Prone to hyperpigmentation
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Drier skin type
Wrinkles
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Bridal Hair and Makeup
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Bridal Makeup Throughout Time
Victorian Brides
Bridal Makeup Throughout Time Edwardian Brides
Bridal Makeup Throughout Time 1920s Brides
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Classic/Traditional Bride • • • • • • • • • • •
Moisturiser Tinted moisturise/light liquid base Concealer Loose translucent face powder Clear mascara/clear brow gel: Brows Soft pink/beige liquid/powder blush Light lilac/gold metallic shadow Black mascara Light flesh lip pencil Baby pink/beige lip colour Clear lip gloss. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Asian Bride
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Understanding Asian Bridal makeup look(s) Arabian eyes Sari Dressing Bridal jura, Dupatta and jewellery setting • Bindi application • Mehndi/Hena. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Ethnic Bride
• Understanding traditional African bridal makeup looks • Understanding colour choices and how to choose based on • Traditional head ties and beads.
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Celebrity Influences Kate Middleton married Prince William in 2011
Ellen Degeneres married Portia De Rossi in 2008
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Advanced Makeup
3. Makeup for TV & Film A. Makeup for Presenters B. Period Makeup Looks
C. 1920s D. 1950s E. 1960s F. Blocking out & reshaping brows G. Reshaping Lips
H. Gallery I. Character Makeup
J. Continuity
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Period Makeup Looks
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Character Makeup
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Fashion & Media Makeup
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Lip Art
Lips come in a variety of shapes and sizes and generally we are never content with what we have. They are either too big or too small, too fat or too thin. People have collagen pumped into their lips and lines tattooed around their lips to change the shape. For a fashion shoot there are a number of things we can do to the lips to make them the dominant part of the make up. Moving away from just lipsticks and glosses we are going to explore the world of Lip Art. There are three main areas of Lip Art: 1. Contrasting Lips 2. The Rainbow Lip 3. Lip Tattoos
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Hair and hair care
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What is hair? Hair is made up of three sections: • Cuticle • Cortex • Medulla
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Influences on hairstyling
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History of hairstyles
• In the heat of Egypt, noblemen and women clipped their hair close to the head. But for ceremonial occasions heavy, curly black wigs were donned. Women’s wigs were often long and braided, adorned with gold ornaments or ivory hairpins. Men’s faces were generally clean shaved, but stiff false beards were sometimes worn • In classical Greece women’s hair was long and pulled back into a chignon. Many dyed their hair red with henna and sprinkled it with gold powder, often adorning it with fresh flowers or jewelled tiara’s. Men’s hair was short and even shaved on occasion.
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Hair and culture
• The word culture has many meanings, one of which is the importance of activities that people take part in. For example, the activities you take part in may mean that you like to keep your hair covered. It is part of your culture to do so. It is what you believe is right for you and it is something that all the members of your family do. • For other people, styling and showing off their hair is what makes them happy. They believe that their hair can reflect their lifestyle and their identity. • In black-culture the natural appearance of hair is seen as a way of representing the history and background of the people of African descent • When a hairstyle is worn by a celebrity, promoted on television or shown in the latest magazines this influences how people wear their own hair.
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Hairstyling Kit
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Straightening and Curling
Setting Hair • Stylists have been setting hair throughout history and it is still an ideal technique for creating the smooth, sleek hair that is also popular today. • There are many different ways to set hair and a huge variety of tools you can use to do it. But, whatever technique you use, there are some basic rules that will always apply • There are three main types of setting: - roller setting - pin curl setting - heated roller setting.
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Airbrush Makeup
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History of Airbrush makeup
• Airbrush makeup is a special type of cosmetic applied with an air operated machine. The makeup is sprayed through a “gun” that is attached to an airbrush compressor. • Francis Edgar Stanley registered the first patent for an airbrush compressor in America in 1876 • Airbrushing was first used as makeup in the 1925 film “Ben Hur” • With the use of the internet airbrushing has become more popular and accessible to the public • Many companies began selling airbrush makeup and airbrush compressors. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Airbrush Equipment
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Compressor Airbrush gun Foundation Colours Stencils Cleaner
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How to airbrush
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6. The Business of Makeup A. Career Paths B. Working as a Makeup Artist C. Your Portfolio D. Marketing Yourself E. Insurance F. Customer Care
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Your portfolio
• Your make up artist portfolio needs to demonstrate your unique style and passion as an artist • Display technical traits you excel in as well as simple skills you have mastered and personalized • You should also be sure to show your versatility to the client so they can use you for differing projects in the future • Although you need to demonstrate a unique vision, presenting yourself in a professional demeanor is always a necessity in any business. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Marketing yourself
• Design a business card for yourself. It is not a good idea to put both your phone number and address on the card, in case it ends up in the hands of someone unscrupulous. However a phone number, email address, and website details are all useful information for potential clients. Remember clients will receive many business cards, so try to make yours stand out • Remember you are only as good as your last job and a poor reputation is very hard to shake off • Ensure local photographers know about you • Network and make contacts. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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