MASTERING EYES
Mastering Eyes
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Eyes and Eyebrows Anatomy if an eyebrow
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Eyebrows Eyebrows • The one feature that can be altered most dramatically are the eyebrows. Even a subtle shape change in definition can alter the mood of the face • A pair of perfectly shaped eyebrows can do more for your face than almost any cosmetic • By correctly shaping and colouring eye brows eyes can appear larger and the face slimmer and more shapely • A good set of brows will draw attention to the eyes.
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Eyebrows The five basic brows • Round: Soften the face, literally adding roundness and helping to tone down sharp features, such as a pointed chin • Angled: The high, sharp peak draws onlookers’ eyes upward, giving youthful appearance • Soft angled: Similar to above but with a softer and subtler peak, giving the face a more feminine look • Curved: This flattering shape projects a feeling of confidence and professionalism • Flat: Perfect for those with long faces. The horizontal lines of this brow make the face appear shorter. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyebrows - Find face shape Round Face • Best Brow: Angled with a high arch and a short tail. This shape makes the face look longer and slimmer. But don’t angle the brow too steeply or it will look misplaced and just draw attention to the roundness of the face • Worst Brow: Round, a shape that echoes the shape of the face and make it appear even rounder Long Face • Best Brow: Flat and horizontal, which makes the eye look side to side rather than up and down, making the face appear more oval • Worst Brow: An angled brow with a high arch and a short tail will exaggerate the length of the face WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyebrows - Find face shape Square Face • Best Brow: Angled with a sharp peak or curved with a sharp peak to focus attention away from a square jaw and balance the face • Worst Brow: There is no brow shape that will make the jaw look more square. But a delicate, rounded shape won’t balance a strong jaw Heart-Shaped Face • Best Brow: Rounded to “soften” the point of the chin • Worst Brow: A flat, horizontal brow, which does nothing to counterbalance the point of the chin. The result: The whole equilibrium of the face is thrown off WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyebrows - Find face shape Diamond-Shaped Face • Best Brow: An angled brow or a curved brow with a peak will “narrow” wide cheekbones and temple and give the face another focal point. A round brow is another good choice • Worst Brow: A flat brow will make this face shape appear unflatteringly short, this brow also makes the face appear even wider Oval Face • Best Brow: Any shape that enhances. Since the face is already oval, brows play no role in making it appear more so • Worst Brow: One that’s not groomed properly – or at all, or a brow that’s too highly arched, giving the face a look of perpetual surprise. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyebrows - brow strength There are three things that affect brow strength: • Proximity to the eye: The closer the brow is to the eye, the stronger it will appear • Thickness: The thicker the brow, the stronger it will appear • Colour: The darker the brow, the stronger it will appear • Give your client some time to get used to the new shape/colour before deciding it’s not for them. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyebrows – Common Myths • Myth #1: Your eyebrow shape has to follow your natural brow line. What’s important is to find the shape that’s most flattering • Myth #2: Your eyebrows are the frame for your face. A frame doesn’t have the ability to make or break a piece of art the way brows do. Brows are an important feature • Myth #3: You should never pluck the hairs above your brows. Why would you want to be hair-free below you brow but not above it? • Myth #4: Using makeup to enlarge or change the shape of your brows will make them look too fake. If you use a light hand, it’s easy to use brow powder and pencil to create a totally natural-looking brow. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyebrows – Tools of the trade • • • • • • •
A brow brush or comb A white pencil Eyebrow stencils (optional) Eyebrow Pencil Eyebrow Powder Tweezers Nail scissors (good for trimming those hairs that extend beyond the outline of the brow) • Brow Control Substances e.g. Brow gel WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyes
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Eyes – Eye shadow • Professional eye makeup is a result of meticulous application and careful build up of colour. For each look the following should be considered. Considerations for eye makeup Colour
Texture
Shape
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Finish
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Eyes – Eye shadow Powder-based • Available in loose or compact form • Made from same ingredients as face powder • Loose powders are easier to use if they are mixed with a setting liquid or pressed into a cream base • The best shadows contain a high pigment content that will not lose its depth of colour • Powder-based shadows are ideal for most types because they can be controlled easily and they appear to be softer, silkier and smoother on skin WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyes – Eye shadow Cream-based • Available in liquid, stick or compact form • Since they contain water-in-oil they are good for dry skins and blend into the skin easily • They are applied after foundation and then set with a light film of face powder to help prevent creasing • Apply cream eye shadow base or base powder colour to hold the colour on the eyelid • Apply cream shadow across the whole lid to three quarters of the way up • Make sure you apply shadow high enough on the lid and layer a second coat to be sure its dense enough • Check how the shadow looks. Add more as needed. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyes – Eye shadow Eye shadow finishes • Frosted or metallic – effect varies from a subtle shimmer to a dramatic metallic effect • Matt – creating reliable results on camera, matt eye shadows remain a popular choice for makeup artists. Darker shades absorb the light and are useful for creating depth. They give the most natural finish. • Glossy – Look generally used for high fashion images. Requires a lot of maintenance as after a while the gloss tends to slide and crease. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyes – Eye Colour Chart • The natural skin tone, eye, hair colour and wardrobe can all act as indicators for choosing eye shadow colours • Eye shadows need not match the eyes: in fact they often look more effective if they contract with the eyes • Try golds and coppers around blue eyes to make the look bluer • Enhance brown eyes with greens, violet and gold • There are no rules when choosing eye shadow colour but think back to the colour theory. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyes – Eye Colour Chart Fornay, Alfred. 2002. The African American Woman’s guide to successful makeup and skincare
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Eyes – Eyeliner • Eyeliner is the ultimate way to define and enhance the eyes. Liner can also be used to improve the shape of the eyes • Its application needs to be generous enough to be visible when the eyes are open • You can achieve a beautiful, defined looking using liner only on the top lash line • If using liner on both top and bottom lash lines, it is important to keep the top thicker than the bottom • Dark circles look darker when liner is applied on the lower lash line. Bring concealer up to the lash line, and use only mascara on the lower lashes. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyes – Eyeliner • Make eyes look more intense by double lining. Use dark shadow with a dry eyeliner brush, then repeat with a liquid liner or wet brush using a slightly thinner line. The technique can also be reversed – gel can be softened with shadow • Pencils are easy to use but are not long lasting and can smear. Layering powder shadow on top will help these drawbacks • Gel, Liquid & Cake liners are the longest lasting. Mastering the techniques for using them will be worthwhile. Always line the whole lid across. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyes – Eyeliner • Do apply liner as close as possible to the lash line, making sure there is no gap. This has the added benefit of making the lashes look fuller and lush • Do apply liner thinnest at the inner corner of the eye, and thicken it as you move outward. This accentuates the eye’s shape and gives the eyes a lift • Do line all the way across the lids! You can line just the top and not the bottom, but don’t line either lid halfway • Don’t line just the bottom of the eye. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyes – Eyeliner • Don’t apply liner to the inside rim of the eyelids, except for the theatrical effect or a fashion shoot. Your risk infection and injury. And, rather than making the eyes stand out, lining inside the rim actually makes the eyes appear smaller • Do make the top and bottom lines of liner meet at the inside and outside corners to make the eyes appear larger. Not connecting the lines makes the eyelids appear too round and small WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyes – Eyeliner • White eye pencil • Using a white eye pencil on the inside rims of the eyes can make them look bigger • To apply, gently pull the lid away from the eye and draw a line along the upper and lower inner eye rim • Use kohl with caution. Stringent hygienic precautions are essential for this procedure. Always gain permission from the model before proceeding. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyes – Eyelashes • Lashes open up and emphasise the eyes • Most lashes are transformed with a sweep of mascara and the use of an eyelash curler • Black mascara should always be your first choice • Product choices include mascara, curlers and false eyelashes
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Eyes – Mascara • The purpose of mascara is to build up you lashes • Mascara makes lashes look longer, thicker and more smouldering • Apply mascara using a disposable mascara wand • Ask the model to look down. Gently lift the eyebrow at the outer corner with your free hand. As you do this, the hairs of the lashes will separate • Apply the mascara over the top of the upper lashes from the roots to the tips • When this is dry, add a second layer, this time upwards and outwards from under the upper lashes. This will help to lift the lashes WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyes – Mascara • Hint: mascara lower lashes first to save time! The alternative is to wait until the top lashes are completely dry before attempting to mascara lower lashes, otherwise you will end up with dots of mascara across the eye makeup • Ask model to look upwards away from the applicator. Make sure the model is not looking directly into a strong light or the eye may water • Mascara on the bottom lashes should be used sparingly; clients with naturally dark lashes may not require it at all here • Use an eyelash comb to separate the eyelashes and remove any lumps WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyes – Mascara • When loading the mascara wand with product do not pump the wand in and out of the barrel as this will introduce air into the product and cause it to dry out quickly Contact lenses • the makeup artist must be careful not to let any debris from the makeup get into the eye • Some models are happier removing their contact lenses before makeup application, others prefer to leave them in place • Ask the client to keep their eyes closed when applying powder products and avoid using lash lengthening mascaras containing filaments which may irritate WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyes – Curling eyelashes • Start with clean lashes • Ask the client to look straight ahead • The eyelash curlers are opened, placed near to the base of the top lashes and squeezed together and hold for five to ten seconds • Continue to move along the lash towards the tips, squeezing as you go • Care must be taken not to pinch the client • Use mascara immediately afterwards to ‘set in’ the curl • You can also curl lashes by gently pressing them up with your fingers as the mascara dries WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyes – False Eyelashes • False eyelashes are used to create a more dramatic looking eye and for special effects. Lashes can be applied individually, in a small section, or in a full band • Eyelash glue comes in white, clear and black • MINK recommends black as it blends into the lash line
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Eyes – Smoky Eye • Smoky eye is a dreamy look, making it appear as if the wearer has a 3-dimensional cloud of colour around the eyes • Darker colours work best for smoky eyes e.g. greys, browns, dusty mauve, purples, deep greens, navy blue, charcoal etc • Smoky eyes always need at least 2 colours • They key to making a smoky eye work is by understanding the gradation from dark to light: the darkest shade goes closest to the lash line and the colour gets lighter and lighter as you move away • The second colour is a lighter version of the first WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Eyes – Smoky Eye • Prime the eye area with an all-over white or beige base that will allow the darker colours to blend • Apply a slightly darker shadow on the lower lid, from the lash line up to the crease and use a deeper one in the same colour family layered on top • This technique can also be used to line the lower lashes, keeping the application lighter and balanced with the upper eye • Apply a double layer of liner, first using a dry brush and then a get or pencil • Extend the liner slightly beyond the outer corners of the eyes • Then reapply the liner a bit heavier and repeat as required • Always add multiple coats of mascara. Smudge and blend WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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About MINK • MINK London is the UKs leading makeup authority for women of colour! • The company runs a private makeup school, a makeup agency and a produces large scale makeup events • The private makeup school specialises in short, comprehensive makeup programmes broken down into: • Professional makeup courses • Non professional makeup courses • Our professional makeup courses are full accredited by BABTAC, so you can be assured that you will get the highest standard of training available. • Contact us: thisismink.com; info@thisismink.com 020 3589 0724