SKIN AND SKINCARE
Skin and Skincare
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Skin • Beauty starts with smooth, healthy, glowing skin • The skin is a very important organ to a makeup artist. It is the canvas on which they work. An understanding of the structure and functions of the skin is essential for carrying out makeup procedures safely and effectively • The skin is composed of three layers: a deep layer called the hypodermis, a middle layer called the dermis and a surface layer called the epidermis • The epidermis gives immediate, visual clues to the condition of the skin, while the dermis determines how the skin responds and changes with age WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Skin • On the surface of the epidermis is a layer of oil transported from the dermis by the hair follicles that forms a natural barrier, helping the skin to retain water. • Harsh and scented cleansing products, exposure to chemical and biological pollution in the environment, and poor diet can remove the protective oil-based layer from the skin • The oil content in moisturisers works with the protective lipid coating of the skin to partially protect the skin from the air • HYDRATION is the key to smooth, even skin and moisturisation is the external way to achieve it WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Skin Care: Skin Type • The makeup artist needs to carry out a skin analysis for the following reasons: – – – – –
To check the skin for contra-indications To identify the models skin type To identify the correct products for use on the model To advise the model on homecare routines and products To record any areas requiring special attention or treatment e.g. spot possible skin cancers
• There are three methods for carrying out the analysis: – Visual examination, Questioning the model and Manual examination WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Skin Care: Skin Type Oily Skin: Skin tends to over produce sebum, making it feel and appear oily. Maintenance goal oil control • Benefit: skin is always well moisturised and will get fewer wrinkles as it ages • Drawback: skin is more prone to breakouts, since sebum has the tendency to mix with dead skin cells, this clogs the pores and produces pimples • Treatment: use water based, oil free, fragrance free products, use astringents, don’t use oil-based creams or lotions, don’t use acne-medicated or abrasive cleansing pads WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Skin Care: Skin Type Dry Skin: Dryness occurs when skin doesn’t produce enough moisture and sebum. Maintenance goal replenish and maintain balance of water and oil on skin. • Benefit: dryness can make skin look great – with fine pores and a clear surface • Drawback: can be uncomfortable and rough to touch • Treatment: use rich, cream based, moistureconditioning, dermatologically tested products. Don’t use astringents formulated for oily and combination skin, don’t use petroleum jelly, cocoa butter, mineral oil, or baby oil as a facial moisturiser. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Skin Care: Skin Type Combination skin: Combination or unbalanced skin. Where the T-zone contains more oil glands than the rest of the face. Maintenance goal treat, care for and maintain skin. • Benefit: skin is always well moisturised and will get fewer wrinkles as it ages • Drawback: oily or pimple prone along the perimeter of face, products that help one part can hurt another part of the face • Treatment: stick to products formulated specifically for combination skin. Don’t use abrasive cosmetic tools over the entire face. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Skin Care: Skin Type Sensitive skin A negative reaction to outside factors, like wind, sun overexposure, allergies to certain products, overzealous scrubbing. Maintenance goal is to be as gentle as possible with skin. • Drawback: easily irritated, often red and blotchy • Treatment: use a thin cleansing lotion that’s hyper allergenic, allergy-tested, or fragrance-free. • Most popular natural ingredients include: Moisturisers; olive oil, shea butter, avocado oil, honey, milk, Skin-soothers; aloe vera, lavender, chamomile, geranium, green tea, Oil fighters; tea tree oil, citrus, ylang-ylang, rosemary. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Skin Care: Skin Type Hyper pigmented skin Common among black, Latina and Middle Eastern women. Hyper pigmentation is a darkening of the skin in patches or all over and is most often caused when skin has undergone some trauma that causes inflammation (acne, burns, chemical peels, laser treatments, sun overexposure) • Drawback: fading process can take months or even years • Treatment: best cleansers are those that exfoliate. Avoid cleaners that contain manual exfoliators like micro beads, salts, ground nuts as they can cause irritation which leads to more dark spots. Instead look for those containing glycolic acid, which do the job gently. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Skin Care: Skin Type Normal skin Skin always feels and looks supple with or without moisturiser. • Benefit: few or no breakouts, can apply almost any product without irritation, skin tone is even without any darker or lighter areas • Drawback: – None! • Treatment: – Go for an SPF-infused cream cleanser or a pack of disposable cleansing cloths for normal skin. Make sure cleanser leaves skin feel supple, not tight. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Skin Care: Cleansing routine • Secure models hair away from face with headband or sectioning clips • Apply eye makeup remover with damp cotton wool • Remove any lipstick with small amount of cleanser using damp cotton wool • Apply dots of cleanser over entire face. Work from neck upwards. Use light pressure around eyes • Remove cleanser with tissues, damp cotton wool or sponges • Blot the face with the tissue folded in a triangle. Pat gently with the hand. WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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Skin Care • As a makeup artist you should ensure you are up to date with new skin care products on the market • Try out products from a vast number of ranges until you find a selection that you would like to include in your kit • It may be impractical to carry a number of products for each of the individual skin types; you may prefer to choose products that are suitable for use on a range of skin types WWW.THISISMINK.COM
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About MINK • MINK London is the UKs leading makeup authority for women of colour! • The company runs a private makeup school, a makeup agency and a produces large scale makeup events • The private makeup school specialises in short, comprehensive makeup programmes broken down into: • Professional makeup courses • Non professional makeup courses • Our professional makeup courses are full accredited by BABTAC, so you can be assured that you will get the highest standard of training available. • Contact us: thisismink.com; info@thisismink.com 020 3589 0724