AGENCY 3
letter from the editor A
new type of consumer is taking the global market into their own hands by inheriting the largest buying power in the world. This generation, dubbed Gen-Z, is set to claim the aforementioned title by the year 2020. Influenced by economic instability, social change, and rapid technological advances, Gen-Z brings an unprecedented amount of opinions and research into the buying process. They are active consumers who are empowered more and more everyday by an increasing connectivity within marketplace. “Next” has its finger on the pulse of Gen-Z, offering a selection of the most influential fashion trends currently shaping the $3 trillion industry. We understand the incredible importance of acting upon these tips in an ethical and transparent way. If implemented correctly, this model will prevent your brand from fading into the back of Gen-Z’s mind – or even worse, getting cancelled.
contents 4
unboxing gender
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ethical sourcing
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transparency is the new black
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one size does not fit all
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like and subscribe
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making old new
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age of influence
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the big picture
unboxing
unboxing gender
F
HOW ANDROGYNY IS BRIDGING THE DEPARTMENTS OF FASHION.
rom the shows of Givenchy to the isles of Uniqlo, genderless fashion is taking the industry by storm. This trend, however, is anything but random. With an increase in gendernoncomforming representation in media, and an unprecedented amount of visibility for underrepresented groups, consumers feel now – more than ever – a freedom to break out of traditionally held boxes. More than 30% off menswear buy is genderless in the United States and 38% of Gen-Z strongly agree that gender holds less of an impact in their fashion choices. These sentiments seem to be reflected in the way younger generations now shop, with greater percentages saying they choose a brick-and-mortar store that offers options for all
genders. Labels who have chosen to capitalize on this trend are including both men and women models in their fashion shows. In fact, in 2018, a Unisex category was implemented at New York Fashion Week, with 16 neutral collections being shown. Several advantages exist for brands who choose to appeal to gender-benders, one of which being an increased liking among younger generations, who are inevitably growing to control more and more of the retail spend. Additionally,these inclusive labels and designers can successfully capture incremental purchases from an individual who may have otherwise avoided a specific section of their store or website.
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NEXT
ethical
HOW ANIMALS ARE OVERSTOCKING CONSUMER CLOSETS.
ethical sourcing
A
lthough divisive on a political standpoint, the environmental impact that industry has on the world around consumers is undoubtedly an area of great importance. The textile industry alone emits 1.2 billion tons of greenhouse gases, with textile dyeing being the second largest polluter of clean water on Earth. These clothes being produced rapidly and ineffectively, are quickly discarded by the consumer to populate land-fills and never properly degrade. Whether the country as a whole is unified or not around the idea of regulating such impacts, one thing is clear – the fashion industry must start acting responsibly or risk being scrutinized by customers. An increase in consumer knowledge via the internet and recent documentaries leaves global textile producers no choice but to be open about their actions. In response, brands are starting to use alternative fabrics as well as whole or deadstock fabrics to limit their carbon footprint. Moving away from animal protein fibers is the most sustainable practice, and has become a growing demand from Millenials and Gen-Z. Some high street brands, who were once major contributors to the very problem discussed above, have started to adopt this ethical sourcing mantra including: Old Navy, H&M and Zara. In 2019, labor abuse, negative environmental impact, and animal textile destruction is being exposed on a daily basis, and brands that choose to ignore this exposure will find themselves left behind by competitors.
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NEXT
open practice HOW CONSUMERS ARE RIPPING OFF THE CORPORATE BLINDFOLD.
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ith the ever-increasing touchpoints from brand to consumer in the digital era, there is no longer a place for opaque brands to hide. Younger buyers are hyper-aware of what corporate entities choose to do behind the scenes, no longer just the image they are choosing to portray in the public eye. While using the power of social media watchdogs and internet research themselves, Millenials and Gen-Z are more intolerant than ever of brands being unclear in their values and wavering in their social stances. A huge example of this in the marketplace revolves around whistleblowers in the realm of “pinkwashing.� This phenomenon results when firms appeal and seek profit from LGBTQ+ populations, particularly
during the months of pride, while behaving in discriminatory ways toward this marginalized community at a corporate level. Overall, brands must understand the immense power that digital natives possess in the marketplace, and be prepared to act on what they claim – or risk being called out. One example of a label taking radical transparency to the next level is Everlane. Their social media and website provide consumers with a completely open breakdown of the cost associated with each garment. Consumers today are seeking details like material cost, environmental impact, and source partners, so the best way to prevent confusion is to provide this information clearly and accurately.
open
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one size does not fit all HOW THE MANNEQUIN IS GETTING A MUCH NEEDED UPGRADE.
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s consumer culture is shifting to a more inclusive state every day, brands are increasingly being held accountable for the models that they choose. It’s no surprise then that labels which aren’t including people of all races, sizes, genders, and ages are being intensely scrutinized by the marketplace. Whether it’s on the runway or in advertisements, representation is becoming more and more crucial to the evaluation of a brand’s overall image and value – with over 50% of women reporting an increase in fashionability when the model also exhibited physical similarity. This offers major insight into the value of consumer research and sentiment mining. When a brand knows what their customers look like, they can better tailor models and even mannequins to evoke a feeling of inclusivity and
emotional connection that bridges the retail gap. Perhaps one of the most infamous brands for being at the negative end of this spectrum is Victoria’s Secret. Their initial refusal to allow plus size and transgender models to walk in their shows sparked outcry amongst many consumers. Meanwhile, competitor brands such as Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty have embraced the idea of inclusivity by featuring plus sized models on the home page of their website. Additionally, large labels like Gucci and Chanel have expanded the mannequins upgrade even further by including transgender models in their advertisements and runways. Overall, this trend seems unwilling to slow down until representation across all dimensions is achieved.
NEXT
like and subscribe
like and subscribe HOW THE IPHONE IS PUTTING STYLISTS OUT OF WORK.
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ith the exponential increase in technological capabilities worldwide, shopping in brick and mortar locations seems to be more and more of an afterthought in each successive generation. However, there are still certain reservations preventing online shopping from capturing the entire marketplace – fitting and liking. No matter how vivid the iPhone 11 screen is, no buyer can truly understand how a garment will look and feel on their body until they, well, put it on their body. The trend capitalizing on this shortfall of e-commerce is subscription boxes. In fact, the subscription e-commerce market has grown upwards of 500% over the past five years, with 15% of online shoppers signing up for a service. Building off of the power that influencer marketing has
captured in the marketplace, this industry is being pioneered by companies like Fabletics, StitchFix, and ThredUp which appeal to social savvy buyers. All culminating into a buying experience that offers ease as well as practicality. Take StitchFix for example – which boasts 3 easy steps toward finding your next outfit. The process involves filling out a style profile with a price range, requesting a $20 delivery, and trying before buying. Consumers then receive a box specifically tailored to their taste, and everything else can be returned for free. Ease, tailored options, and near-instantaneous shipping are all slowly winning over American consumers who expect nothing less than the world at their fingertips.
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Magazine Title
making old new
making old new ESCAPING EPHEMERA BY ARCHIVAL ARCHEOLOGY.
A
s we accelerate into the singularity, no period is safe from reinvention. Taking a note from youth culture’s obsession with nostalgia, brands have been looking to yesteryear for aesthetic inspiration. Although vintage clothing has been a trend in fashion throughout modernity, as proven by the so-called “20 Year Rule,” in recent times brands have been far more overt in their penchant for the past. For that matter, consumers’ appetite for nostalgia has equally exponentially increased. This is evidenced by the recent phenomenon of fashion houses reissuing items directly from their archives, which consumers voraciously devour. However, this nostalgia is not limited to the confines of twenty years. Versace has been dipping into pop art prints from their 1991 season, while Gucci has been reaching into the 1950’s to breathe new life into their iconic
Horsebits. All the while, Coach has been living in the 1970’s by way of re-releasing their “mailbox” bags. The trend of reissuing is not just limited to luxury brands. In the past few years, Nike has rereleased most of their catalog and consumers have given new life to Champion, a brand that earlier in the decade was found only at budget retailers. In a world of Snapchat filters and “deep fakes,” consumers desire more ways to convey authenticity, or for that matter reality itself, through self-expression. As cultural touchstones erode due to audience fragmentation and social customs become increasing memetic and disposable, society yearns for a culture to call home. With popular culture largely becoming ephemeral, is it any wonder that humanity at large is finding comfort in the solidified past?
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Magazine Title
the age of influence HOW BRANDS ARE TURNING INSTAGRAM INTO A STORYBOOK.
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ver the years since its 2010 launch, Instagram has proved to be an incredibly multifaceted platform. The app’s cultural impact today is undeniable, with a staggering 1 billion users to date. However, the ways that consumers – particularly those in Gen-Z – are interacting with content on Insta has drastically changed within the past year. Users are rapidly moving away from the arduous task of scrolling through a feed for hours, and instead many are moving their eyes toward the “Stories” feature popularized recently. In fact, Instagram Stories are used by half a billion people every single day, prompting app developers to place this tool at the very opening of the social media platform. While the old feed is ideal for reach, marketers quickly found that these new Instagram
Stories are incredibly effective at increasing engagement and influence. The idea of influencer advertising is nothing new; consumers trust the people that they follow, so when they see a story that has an endorsement, brand liking is likely to increase. However, fashion lines and brands looking to tap into the influencer market have a newfound power in Instagram Stories – transparency and lifestyle appeal. Typically, fashion influencers are paid by brands to endorse specific products and their posts are very clearly marked as advertisements. The dynamic nature of a story allows brands to break this wall of superficial selling and appeal to overall lifestyle sentiments via emotional appeals.
making old new
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IMPLICATIONS FOR THE INDUSTRY MOVING FORWARD
the big picture
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hen faced with the growing force that is Gen-Z, the fashion brands that choose to take the aforementioned trends head on are those who will thrive. No longer can labels hide from the eyes of a generation empowered by technology and connected to others on an unprecedented scale. Gen-Z is armed and searching for representation, responsibility, and remembrance throughout the marketplace, with each of these offering strong area for growth or missteps. With the platform that technology allows, otherwise marginalized or minority groups now have a strong voice and a community. This leads to a demand for representation across the board, whether that be size, gender, race, sexual orientation, or age. Fashion companies who understand this importance and choose to display models and clothing options that represent all of Gen-Z’s intricacies will see increased praise and sales. Responsibility is built upon the fact that brands are no longer unreachable by the consumer. Thus, if fashion brands don’t offer sustainable practices, lifestyle appeal, and transparency, they simply cannot survive in the coming environment. Simple steps can be taken to ensure a responsible image; these include ethically sourcing fabrics, taking an unwavering stance on social issues, and using social media to maintain an open and honest line of communication. Finally, remembrance encompasses the remaining trends involving subscription services and nostalgia. This category insists that a fashion brand never forget that the consumer, and in our case Gen-Z, is at the center of all efforts. Comfort and instant gratification are keys, while also being adaptable to the physical trends that may come and go.
Magazine Title
KATE LAVER, THOMAS MCMULLEN, CALEB DILLS, EMMA HELD, JAKE MCNEIL